Canadian Culinary Federation Serving The Professional Interest of Canadian Chef’s since 1963
CCFCC 50th Anniversary 2013 National Conference Edmonton, AB Page 8
Mise en Place
Fall 2013 number 1 Canada Post Publication no. 42659012
Fédération Culinaire Canadienne Servir l’intérêt professionnel de du chef du Canada depuis 1963
Fall 2013 | Mise en Place | 1
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[ inside ] Mise en Place
President’s message - President Donald Gyurkovits.........................................Page 4 Chez Risotto.................................................................................................................................Page 4 & 5 50th Anniversary Convention.........................................................................................Page 8 Hand Cut Ice By Warren Bobrow..................................................................................Page 12 Denise Perry
Public Relations, British Columbia/Alberta 778.899.6673 / 403.860.2388
Protecting Working Families
2013 CCFCC/Saputo PEI junior culinary exchange.....................................Page 13 Chef Of The Year.......................................................................................................................Page 17 Culinary Team Canada - The Windsor Adventure ..........................................Page 18
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president’s message A new Mise en Place Magazine
fter a two-year absence, I’d like to introduce the new Mise en Place to our members. We have found a publisher who understands our needs, so I would like to welcome our Publisher, Pierre Little, and his Editor Amy Jeanroy and team to the CCFCC family. It’s been a busy two years for the federation on a local, national, and international stage. Our membership has seen steady growth because local chapters have been participating in various charity and chapter events in their communities, making the CCFCC a recognizable brand. On a national level, we’ve put on two great conferences and seen the federation mark its 50th anniversary. The CCFCC educational branch, the CCI, has seen an increase in the number of CCC candidates graduating as well as our first Canadian master chef (CMC), Chef Judson Simpson. Internationally, we are coming off a successful competition schedule with a fourth-place showing for our senior national team at the IKA Culinary Olympics in Erfurt, Germany. Our junior culinary team has participated in many competitions around the world, bringing home a variety of medals from each competition. Our Bocuse d’Or candidate, Chef Alex Chen, had a great showing at what many chefs consider the toughest culinary competition in the world, staying in the top 10 by placing ninth. The national office is in the exceedingly capable hands of Chef Roy Butterworth, who is our new Executive Director. The board of directors have formed strong relationships with a variety of new corporate partners while strengthening existing ones. One of the most successful partnerships is with Saputo, who has been the corporate partner with the CCFCC for the junior members in the form of a culinary exchange. Last year, the Okanagan chapter hosted four junior chefs for two weeks, exposing them to all that “Napa North” has to offer. This year, four junior chef members went to Prince Edward Island for two weeks of oyster harvesting and cheese making as well as
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Publisher: Pierre Little firstname.lastname@example.org Editor: Amy Jeanroy email@example.com Graphics: Atlantic Journals firstname.lastname@example.org Advertisement bookings: 506-878-3079 email@example.com Media Kit www.ccfccmag.com/ads Winter issue January 2014, media booking deadline December 6, 2013. participating in the a yearly local fundraiser, the Village Feast with Chef Michael Smith. With the overwhelming success of this program, we are exploring international opportunities to expand the junior culinary exchange with other WACS countries. Moving ahead, your board is looking for ways to increase the value of your membership with additional benefits like the recently offered insurance packages as well as corporate rates at Delta Hotels. Other endeavours include signing additional corporate partners and more educational professional development offerings. As always, I encourage you to go to your local chapter meetings and to engage in your communities. The CCFCC is only as strong as your participation. With next year being an election year, consider running for a national board position. I can assure you that you won’t be bored! And remember to share your stories – with Mise en Place, we have an excellent venue now to do just that. Living the dream,
Donald Gyurkovits President, CCFCC
Contributors: Joyce Scott Warren Bobrow Mise En Place is published quarterly and its production and adminstration is commissioned by Atlantic Journals on behalf of the Canadian Culinary Federation. We welcome member comments and suggestions. Please email your comments or suggestions to firstname.lastname@example.org Distribution by Canada Post, Publications Mail Agreement Number 42659012
All contents Copyright 2013, BBJ, Inc. Atlantic Journals, BBJ Inc. 2170 Weldfield-Collette Rd. Collette, N.B. E4Y 1H5 tel: 506 878-3079 fax: 506 775-1037 www.ccfccmag.com
Mise en Place
Chez Risotto, Chef Exécutif Ritesh Purran s’amuse – au grand bénéfice de la clientèle Par Michael Bourguignon
lgonquin à Ottawa en 2000-2001. Son parcours à travers le domaine de la cuisine professionnelle, bien entendu, a été marqué par de longues années de dure labeur mais, de dire le Chef Exécutif de Risotto Pâtes et Grillades lui-même, << Je suis parvenu à un stade où je peux m’amuser dans ma cuisine avec ma brigade, enseigner à de futurs chefs et restaurateurs, offrir de la formation spécialisée dans différents établissements, tout en continuant à ouvrir mes horizons sur le monde et les nouvelles tendances culinaires. >> En effet, malgré la vocation italienne du resto Risotto, Chef Purran essaie de toujours faire découvrir de nouvelles saveurs aux clients. Alors que les clients de du Ramada Plaza Hotel Le Manoir du Casino à Gatineau, d’où se situe Risotto Pâtes et Grillades, peuvent tenter leurs chances au baccarat, le Chef Purran préfère jouer avec les techniques de cuisson tout en misant sur la simplicité. Le résultat gagnant : il parvient à proposer des plats savoureux, innovateurs et inédits.
Sa soif d’apprentissage et de savoir en matière de nouvelles techniques de cuisson et le besoin de connaître les procédés moléculaires et le pourquoi durant la transformation des aliments, tout en utilisant la technologie avancée des fours Rational, lui ont permis de se démarquer et de gravir les échelons dans le monde compétitif et concurrentiel de la cuisine gastronomique. Il faut alors se demander quels sont les incontournables de la table de Risotto. Selon le Chef lui-même, c’est peut-être l’entrée de calmars alla Riri, une création personnelle et unique. << Notre façon d’apprêter les calmars est totalement différente de tout ce qui est offert ailleurs, affirme-t-il. >> De plus, poursuit-il, << Nos différents types de risottos, lesquels ont reçu une critique positive et été qualifiés comme étant une représentation authentique et fidèle des meilleurs plats servis en Italie. >> C’est d’abord dans la cuisine que l’on perçoit ce qui distingue le restaurant Risotto Pâtes et Grillades des maintes autres établissements de cuisine italienne, mais c’est à table, sur les visages des clients ravis que les talents du Chef
Exécutif Ritesh Purran sont confirmées. Aussi loin qu’il puisse se rappeler, Ritesh Purran a toujours aimé la nourriture, découvrir de nouveaux plats et cuisiner. Pas surprenant alors, qu’après avoir quitté l’ile Maurice, son pays natal, il s’est dirigé vers le Canada pour suivre le programme de gestion culinaire au Collège.
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Chez Risotto, Executive Chef Ritesh Purran
By Michael Bourguignon
t Risotto, the Executive Chef Ritesh Purran is having fun;to the customer’s advantage, of course ! Even though his journey in the professional
culinary world has indeed been marked by long years of hard labor, the Executive Chef of the Risotto Pasta and Grill explains that he now has reached a stage where he can enjoy himself with his crew, transmit his skills and knowledge to future chefs and restaurant owners, offer specialized training and continue to open up his horizons to the world, and to new food trends. As a matter of fact, even though the restaurant’s menu leans towards Italian cuisine, Chef Purran always tries to introduce his customers to new flavors. And as the visitors of the Ramada Plaza Hotel Le Manoir at the Casino in Gatineau - where the Risotto Pasta and Grill is located, try their luck at a game of baccarat, Chef Purran prefers playing with cooking techniques while focusing on simplicity. It is a winning formula, as he manages to serve tasty and innovative dishes. His curiosity and passion for new cooking techniques and his desire to understand the transformation process of food during cooking as he uses the advanced technology of a Rational oven allowed him to stand out and rise through the
ranks in the competitive world of gourmet cuisine. Now one would wonder what on Risotto’s menu is a firm favorite. According to the Chef himself, it could be the appetizer of Squid alla Riri, a personal and unique creation. “Our way to prepare squid is totally different from what’s offered elsewhere”, states Chef Purran. “To boot, we have received a lot of positive feedback on our different types of risottos, that are said to be an authentic representation of Italy’s finest cuisine.” What really sets apart the Risotto Pasta and Grill from other Italian restaurants is what is going on in the kitchen. Yet at the dining table, it is on the faces of the delighted customers that Executive Chef Ritesh Purran’s talent is best confirmed. As far as he can remember, Ritesh Purran always loved food, cooking and discovering new dishes. Not surprising then that he left his home land, Mauritius, and came to Canada to enroll in a College program in Culinary Management.
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50th Anniversary Convention held in Edmonton, AB
Honoured dignitaries and guests at the 2013 National Convention President’s Ball
By Amy Jeanroy
here is quite a bit of pressure when one is hosting the 50th anniversary of anything, a national conference is no exception. This year’s CCFCC National Conference was a glorious mix of new trends and technologies.
Highlights included a spotlight on local
Celebrating 50 years as a Federation - Simon Smotkowicz, CCC; Don Gyurkovits, CCF National President; Marvin Kerenko, CCC, 2013 Convention Chair
foods, with non-traditional cuts of meat being made into spectacular new dishes, and the important connection between Chef and the customer, via Social Media. Throughout the event, one thing held true, the restaurant industry has demanded food service that embrace innovation and change. A fine example of that change was the demonstrations by PolyScience,
whose workshop perhaps changed path of many future recipes and demonstrated the science/culinary combination that is the modern Chef ’s kitchen today. Congratulations to the Chef of the Year, Jacques J. Lepage, the Regional Chefs of the Year and all of the new Honor Society members.
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Culinary Team Canada preparing for Honour Society dinner at 2013 convention Left to right - John Carlo Felicella, Hamid Salamian, Scott Baechler, Luis Clavel, Peter Dewer, Natalie Fortier, Tobias MacDonald, James Hutton, Clement Chan and Giulia Nardiello
2013 Honour Society Recipients Top left: Bruno Marti, CCC, HS Chair; John White, CCC, Edmonton; Claude J. Aucoin, CCC, Halifax; Donald (Busch) Dubay, Halifax; Willi A. Franz, Okanagan; Rodney J. Butters, Okanagan; Middle Row: Luc Boissy, Montreal; Jon W. Paudler, Edmonton; Tomohiro (Tom) Isogai, Toronto; Bottom Row: Thomas Flaim, Toronto; John St. John, CCC, Halifax; Gilbert Noussitou, CCC, Victoria. Not in Photo: Michael Smith, Souris, PEI.
Chef of the Year - Jacques J. Lepage and his wife HelĂ¨ne.
Fall 2013 | Mise en Place | 9
Western Night CCF National Convention - six well qualified chefs learning how to do BBQ’s
Lethbridge Branch doing action station at convention Ice Breaker event
2013 Regional Chefs of the Year recipients awaiting results of National Chef of the Year.
CCF National Convention Edmonton - Trade show show presentation
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Hand Cut Ice
By Warren Bobrow
ce. The mere mention of it elicits shivers up your spine or even a knowing smile of a perfect ice cube with gorgeous Single Malt Scotch dripping over the sides. Still to others, ice is just an adjunct. Is ice just a means to an end or does it add something exciting and enhancing to a cocktail? I’d like to introduce you to really great ice. You don’t have to work in a cocktail lounge to make and use great ice but it wouldn’t hurt to know a bit more about it. First of all to make really great ice you have to boil the water. I recommend doing this twice. Why? When you boil the water the impurities and minerals drop to the bottom of the pot. The water usually freezes crystal clear. This is an essential feature to using great ice. The next thing you must do is making a decision if you want to use silicone cube trays in a large size or a small size. If you want to make ice in rounds you can use plastic or silicone rounds. I am partial to the metal, Japanese ice round mak12 | Mise en Place | Fall 2013
ers. They’re expensive to purchase, but they really work. You can also do what I do. Buy a large Tupperware tray; one gallon is the best size. Then find yourself some Japanese woodworking tools and a mallet. If you cannot find a Japanese tool, perhaps something like a chisel will work? I think so. From here you can cut chunks, cubes or squares. Get a rag and soak it in hot water. Cut a chunk from your gallon block and form the sides with your hands until they are smooth. Keep going until you have the perfect sized ice ball. This ice ball will be crystal clear. Imagine how gorgeous your favorite glass of rye whisky is going to look with this large round thing of rare beauty taking a section of your glass’s real estate. A mere splash of your whisky added to a perfectly hand cut cube of ice and immediately there are drinking memories to be made. Commercial machines are more than capable of making fine ice. Kold Draft is world famous for producing cubes that are both perfectly square and almost crystal clear. The proprietary method that produces Kold Draft ice both filters and forms each perfect cube into something that is different than the usual ice produced in a commercial style machine. Most ice machines are just pumping out cubes without character or emotion. I believe for a mixed drink to be worth drinking the ice must be as good as possible. HOSHIZAKI is a Japanese company that makes technically perfect, crystal clear ice in a fast, nearly silent way. We are lucky to have the availability of these high quality machines all over the globe. The proprietary method of producing ice from these marvelous machines is truly amazing. The final result is a flawless ice cube that speaks strongly of the quality of
your establishment. It’s funny for me to visit a fine dining, white tablecloth restaurant and find that the ice is anything but fine. This is the perfect example of the back of the house not communicating with the front. In the corporate world we used to call it Silo’d. Two ships passing in the night and neither in touch with the ice! The problem in designing a restaurant is that the design elements don’t always follow the hearts who work with the food in the kitchen. Ice is so very important! Great drinks have been ruined by lousy ice! Most restaurants use what is commonly known as ¼ cube or ½ cube ice pieces. These varieties are just cheap and when I see them it makes me suspect that the ice that the restaurant uses is just not an important ingredient. I disagree wholeheartedly. Ice is every bit as important of an ingredient as the coffee or the provenance of soda behind the bar. It speaks to the attention to detail. That is the most important thing in the world. Quality of all the ingredients, right down to the ice tells me that this restaurant or bar cares enough to give their customers the very best! Of course making hand cut ice is the most interesting thing you can do for yourself or your customers. I love nothing more than hand cutting a spear of ice and placing it in a tall Collins glass. This chunk of ice is like a glacier in your glass and this form of solid loveliness will last longer than the liquid intoxicants do. What a fabulous presentation it makes in every glass! This ice pictured below is how Christopher James cuts it for the Four Star Ryland Inn, located in Whitehouse, NJ.
2013 CCFCC/Saputo PEI junior culinary exchange
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his year the CCFCC and Saputo hosted a Junior Culinary Exchange Program in Prince Edward Island. Sixteen applicants from across Canada sent a two-minute video, a three course menu, utilizing Saputo cheese and dairy product. And out of sixteen, only four were chosen and I was one of the four recipients. And for two weeks I experienced an amazing culinary adventure in Prince Edward Island. Our first dinner consisted of a seven course
menu from Terre Rouge Bistro Marche. It was successful dinner, getting to know each other learning everybodyâ€™s name, familiarizing with one another and getting ready for a memorable two weeks! We did not waste any time. The next day we started our stages at different restaurants in PEI. I had the pleasure of working at one of the busiest places in the island Papa Joes, learning that potatoes love fat and salt. And Delta Prince Edward taught me that the simplest thing can be the best and extra efforts are a plus! continued on page 14
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Mussels on buoys and socks
We checked the mussels at the Prince Edward Aqua Farms. Learned how it is born, the “spat” stage to putting them into socks, and into packing and delivering. Chef Jeff McCourt showed us how gouda was made, we tasted different types, different ages and flavors. From soft to extra hard, old, plain, and to everyone’s favorite, smoked gouda!
Staging at Terre Rouge was unbelievable. The kitchen crew has such a high energy. Possibly one of the best team I have met. They showed me a lot of techniques and ideas on food. I learned that no matter how small your kitchen is and you might be using a Panini press as a flat top for searing chicken breasts, it doesn’t matter as long as you can produce incredible food. The Culinary Institute of Canada showed me how to debone a quail and a rabbit. On my last day of staging at the school I was up to something different! Something I needed to learn and appreciate. I ran food out of the kitchen, talking to customers, describing food and keeping the plates and trays balanced. And it reminded me of my days when I was in just starting cooking during high school, I loved seeing people smile as soon as they get their food. And that day made me proud to what I do and what I love. We had the pleasure to work at Canada’s Smartest Kitchen. We learned how food photography works and it was a lot of fun! Touring the island was really great. We got to cross the Confederation Bridge , one of the longest bridge in the world. While we were at the Cavendish farm to check how they make their famous French fries, we ran into a little problem. I thought it was warm enough outside to wear shorts and sandals, and as protocols go, I was not allowed inside. But I still had a sample of their fries which by the way one of the best! On my first day in PEI, I kept hearing about this….Moonshine. I wanted to know so badly but I decided that I will hold up until the tour day and find out about it. Moonshine day
Wheels of Gouda from the Cheese Lady’s
The Gahan Brewery The home of one of the best Blueberry Ale!!
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Village Feast with Chef Michael Smith
comes, and another distillery called the Prince Edward Artisan, we were up to a really great day!
Rum, Gin and Vodka Tasting and learning how to make it!
We served about 1200 people with grilled steak or lobster! The day went great, with a wedding surprise. After an exhausting we sat down for food, shared how our day went and goodbyes to the villagers. Before we took off, our last dinner from the island consisted of ten course meal from Water’s Edge, Delta Prince Edward. We eventually lost track of the count because the food was so tasty and delicious! It was sad to say goodbye to all the Chefs and all the people I have met in the Island. I am really thankful to have been awarded this trip, to the Canadian Culinary Federation and Saputo. This trip gave me so much meaning to what I do and to what I intend to do for the rest of my life. The passion and love for cooking, what a memorable adventure!!! And to the other three Junior Chefs, Kristy, Mandy and Katie it was really fun meeting you girls and I hope that we will all cook together again!
Fall 2013 | Mise en Place | 15
You’ll Love Our Loligo! ˜
Spicy Orange Grilled Calamari with Balsamic Glaze
I am excited to be a part of the High Liner Foodservice Team and look forward to helping you increase your sales and profits with innovative menu ideas, handling tips and much more. Philman George, Chef/Culinary Manager
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balsamic glaze fresh chives
Method Make cuts in squid almost all the way through to create rings. Combine chili oil, orange zest, parsley, garlic and salt; toss with squid and marinate at least 15 minutes. Grill until cooked and tender, about 4 to 5 minutes. Assembly Place a few orange slices on plate and overlap 2 squid (crisscross) per serving. Garnish with balsamic glaze and chives.
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Chef Jacques Lepage 2013 Chef Of The Year by Joyce Scott
hef Jacques Lepage is the 2013 recipient of the Canadian Culinary Federation [CCF] Chef of the Year award. Lepage resides in Plantagenet, Ontario and is the executive chef at La Cuisine Jean-Bernard. Lepage has many years of culinary experience. “I’ve been a cook for 44 years and a chef for 35 years,” he said. He is well known for his style of cooking, a style reminiscent of years gone by. “I like to cook food over an open fire,” he said. “I specialize in that. I also like to cook in cast iron pots.” Lepage enjoys cooking traditional dishes using local produce and products. “I like to support my local producers, their product and their good food,” he said. “I like to show people what we have here in the region.” Cooking was not something he aspired to as a child. “I don’t ever remember saying ‘I’m going to be a cook’,” he said. “I think it all started though, when I was in scouts when I was young. I always enjoyed the cooking and all those badges.” He has no regrets about his career choice. “It’s a passion for me,” he said. “It’s a passion to meet the people when I serve my food, to see the look on their faces when they taste my food and see how good it is.” A community minded man Lepage also enjoys working with other chefs. He joins many of his colleagues throughout the year at various food shows and festivals demonstrating his cooking technique. He is currently working on a fundraising dinner scheduled for September 13th to benefit those affected by the tragedy in Lac Megantic,
Mise en Place
HOT OR COLD FOAM
Quebec in July of this year. He said he expects to have several well-known names at this event. He and his colleagues hope to raise $15,000 to $20,000 for this cause. He will also be participating in this year’s Canadian Beans Festival in Plantagenet September 21st and 22nd. “I will be doing my cooking over an open fire using only cast iron pots,” he said. He encourages anyone and everyone in the area to bring their families and enjoy the experience of his traditional cooking.
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Culinary Team Canada – The Windsor Adventure
he two things a culinary team definitely requires to succeed in competition are practice and money. Lots of both! In Halifax at the 2012 CCF Conference, John Kukucka and Vincenzo Del Duca were inducted to the Canadian Culinary Federation’s Honour Society. They wished to show their gratitude, so … in conjunction with President / Chef Helmut Markert and the Windsor Culinary Guild they invited Culinary Team Canada to Windsor for a week of receptions, public appearances, and practices culminating in a “Going for Gold” fundraiser dinner at the Essex Golf and country Club. The team members were the recipients of amazing hospitality from their arrival to their departure. They were treated like “Rock Stars” by everyone they met. The week began with a backyard reception at a magnificent riverside home of John and Pam Rodzick, gold sponsors of the Essex golf club event. The team served specialty items at a series of stations located in and around the manor. The evening concluded with a dazzling fireworks display over the Detroit River between the cities of Windsor and Detroit.
Culinary Team Canada (L-R) Laura Sharpe Dawe, Scott Baechler, Luis Clavel, Natalie Fortier, Clement Chan, John Carlo Felicella, Giulia nardiello, Tobias MacDonald, Hamid Salimian. Shawn Lang, James Hutton, Daniel Davyduke
The team gladly catered another elegant reception at the Holiday Inn and Suites Ambassador Bridge Windsor in return for luxurious and comfortable accommodations. Thirty invited guests of the hotel enjoyed great food and wine provided by the team, Grill 55’s Executive Chef Erno Szabo and his brigade and members of the hotel’s gracious serving staff. In between receptions and public appearances, the team prepared the required mise en place for the fundraising dinner and were diligently assembling, glazing and plating their cold program for their November journey to Basel, Switzerland and the Salon Culinaire Mondial. These tasks were made easier by the generous donation of the large and well equipped kitchen in Windsor’s Century High School by the very patient and accommodating Chef Instructor, Ron Hart. Despite their hectic schedule of cooking and practicing, there was time for some fun and socializing. Especially memorable was a pig roast at the home of Central Vice President Ahron Goldman. The barbeque provided the team members with the opportunity to relax, if only briefly, enjoy a great meal and to meet many of their colleagues from the Windsor chapter of the CCFCC. The week ended with a bang. The Essex Country Golf and Country Club was the elegant venue for the “grand finale” Starting with yet another reception of stations designated to the cooking and presenting of the team’s specialties by the team support members ably assisted by dedicated members of the Culinary Guild of Windsor and the club’s kitchen brigade. Meanwhile the team’s cold program was on display in the reception area. The guests were then seated in the dining room, all eager in anticipation of the meal being prepared in the adjoining kitchen by the team’s core members. The three course dinner served the guests was the meal planned for the judges in Basel and received positive accolades from those in attendance.
L-R John Kukucka, Vincenzo Del Duca
(L-R) Helmut Market, John Carlo Felicella
18 | Mise en Place | Fall 2013
After the meal was served and the attendees were enjoying a last glass of wine, Team Manager John Carlo Felicella was called to the podium where he was presented a giant cheque for a remarkable twenty five thousand dollars by organizers Del Luca and Kukucka. Earlier in the year, at the Edmonton Conference, the team management met briefly with Del Luca and Kukucka to discuss the week in Windsor. The team management was promised and extraordinary experience. The chefs of Windsor did not disappoint! Culinary Team Canada wishes to thank the following for their time, their kindness, their enthusiasm, their hospitality and especially for their friendship: Chef Vincenzo Del Luca Chef John Kukucka. Chef Helmut Markert Chef Ron Hart Dr. Isabel Chow Chef Linda Nelson Chef Ahron Goldman Chef Erno Szabo Mr. and Mrs. John and Pam Rodzick Mr. and Mrs. Euclide and Julie Cecchin Mr. Tal Chudner Ms. Paula Beach
A special thanks to the many members of the Culinary Guild of Windsor who “joined the party” and to the many helpful, gracious and patient cooks, managers and servers who allowed us to disrupt their routines by our invading their kitchens and their dining rooms to create culinary pandemonium. Celebrated Windsor Chefs donate $2,500 to CCFCC Honour Society: Culinary Team Canada were not the only recipients of the “Going for Gold” fundraising dinner held this past June in Windsor, Ontario. Organizers Vincenzo Del Duca and John Kukucka also donated a generous portion of the proceeds to the Canadian Culinary Federation’s Honour Society. Both Del Duca and Kukucka are inductees to the society created to honour the Canadian Culinary Federation’s most distinguished and dedicated members. Society Chair, Bruno Marti was both surprised and delighted to receive the donation and extends his heartfelt thanks for this generous, unexpected and much appreciated endowment.
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