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LETTER FROM THE EDITOR YOU’RE OURS NOW Welcome to Philly, newbie. Oh, you’ve really stepped in it now. You see, the thing about Philadelphia is, it gets you. Whether you’re here for a minute or a lifetime, you, as Glenn Frey once sang, belong to the city. The moment you wander its hectic streets, soak up its buzzing energy, endure/join its hectoring sports fans, ponder its un-pretzel-shaped pretzels, you realize it. Philadelphia’s part of you. Its gritty charm. Its no-nonsense sensibilities. Its boundless possibilities. Its constant striving, struggling, building and rebuilding. But it can be kinda subtle. Lots of people don’t realize the extent to which this city has become them, and rightly that they have become Philadelphia, until they leave (or try to). Longtime City Paper contributor David Faris grew up nearby in South Jersey and earned his Ph. D. at the University of Pennsylvania. On the eve of taking a professorship in Chicago this summer, he penned this in a farewell ode: Sometimes people ask me what Philly is like. It has such a bad reputation, they say. And I want to say Philly is every step into the street to see if the trolley is coming, every First Friday on every summer evening, every knee-busting move to every third-floor apartment, every 2 a.m. bike ride on every hushed avenue, every Clark Park flea market, every sweaty dance at the 700 Club, every box of Crab Fries at every Phillies game, every potluck crammed with the vegetable-studded quinoa of every drifting dreamer, every poker game laced with overeducated banter, every slurred come-on at every corner bar, every encore from the terrace at the TLA. It’s every bundle of chard bought from every Amish farmer, every potpie sold at every intersection by every dressed-up ideologue, every delicacy simmered in every reduction, every roar from every bar after every touchdown. Andy Dyson — a fellow who came here from London 27 years ago and for the last 14 worked at a program called Neighborhood Bike Works, which seeks to empower youth through bicycling — just recently relocated to Kentucky. He looked into the mirror to stare down the Philly in him: We’re living in a society where they really gave it a shot by creating this nation. They set in process, in an imperfect way, the democracy, which we really do enjoy. It’s not perfect, but I’m still very proud to have lived here where that happened, where people are trying to make things better all the time. … We’ve got a city that’s got wide streets and is a place where people’s ideas of what’s possible have been stretched. That’s what Philadelphia means to me. And then there’s artist Steve Powers, whose mural graces the cover of this magazine. Powers began his career as a Philly graffiti writer. He left Philadelphia some time ago but came back this year to tackle a project called “Love Letter,” a series of murals that read like a series of missives from a boy to a girl but also reflect the feelings of an artist for the city that nurtured him: I grew up at 63rd and Lancaster, and spent my childhood looking at the painted roofs, and then adding my name to the roll call of greats: Mr. Blint, Razz, Clyde, Credit, Estro, Ran and others. I moved to NYC in ’94, but even after painting there and a lot of other places in the world, the roofs [here] still held a totemic power for me, and I always took people back to town to look at them. At one point in the late ’90s, you could see 30 years of color, and then it was all painted brown by [the Philadelphia Anti-Graffiti Network]. Anti maintained the chestnut brown appearance for 10 years, until I got my chance, thanks to the Pew Center for Arts and Heritage, to paint a love letter for the neighborhood and for the expression that gave me my voice all those years ago. You can see Powers’ complete mural project — more than 50 in all — by hopping on the Blue Line (the El) toward Frankford Avenue and looking out the window.

PUBLISHER Paul M. Curci

ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER Nancy Stuski

EDITOR IN CHIEF Brian Howard

CREATIVE DIRECTOR

BAJ Design, bajdesign.com

MANAGING EDITOR Carolyn Huckabay

PHOTOGRAPHER Neal Santos

DESIGNER Adam Sivel

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

E. James Beale, Shaun Brady, Jeffrey C. Billman, Emily Currier, Felicia D’Ambrosio, Molly Eichel, Lauren F. Friedman, K. Ross Hoffman, Elisa Ludwig, Natalie Hope McDonald, Josh Middleton, Holly Otterbein, Patrick Rapa, Isaiah Thompson, Char Vandermeer, John Vettese, Julia West, Monica Weymouth, Carolyn Wyman

PRODUCTION MANAGER

Michael Polimeno

ADVERTISING ART DIRECTOR Reseca Peskin

CONTRIBUTING DESIGNERS

Alyssa Grenning, Evan M. Lopez, Allie Rossignol

SENIOR ACCOUNT MANAGERS

Robb Allison, Yasser Hussain, Sharon MacWilliams, Stephan Sitzai

ACCOUNT MANAGERS

Sara Carano, Robert Crain, Natalie Diener, William Newns, Donald Snyder

In a way, this magazine is City Paper’s love letter to Philly; it’s our guide to what we love, hate and love/ hate about the city we devote most of our time writing about, thinking about, going crazy about, from every idiosyncratic neighborhood to every lush green space erupting from the concrete.

Alexis Pierce

Brian Howard Editor in Chief, Philadelphia City Paper

CIRCULATION DIRECTOR

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OFFICE COORDINATOR Mark Burkert


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S C H E D U L E

SEPTEMBER 24/26 GUEST ARTIST: MARINA SIRTIS, STAR OF “STAR TREK: THE NEXT GENERATION,” NARRATOR Osvaldo Golijov, Last Round Osvaldo Golijov, Lullaby and Doina Richard Strauss, Enoch Arden

NOVEMBER 6/7 GUEST ARTIST: WU MAN, PIPA Jay Reise, Lunahuaná (premiere) Jennifer Margaret Barker, Nyvaigs Beags May T’Chi Chen, new work Tan Dun, Circle, with Four Trios, Conductor and Audience Tan Dun, Concerto for Pipa and Strings

MARCH 19/20 GUEST ARTISTS: JULIANNE BAIRD, SOPRANO LORI BARNET, CELLO MARCANTONIO BARONE, PIANO Paul Hindemith, Kammermusik no. 2 Paul Hindemith, Kammermusik no. 3 Roberto Sierra, Cancionero Sefardi Luciano Berio, Folk Songs

A P R I L 8 / M AY 1

(participating in the PIFA Festival)

GUEST ARTIST: MADELINE BLOOD, HARP Igor Stravinsky, Concerto in D for Strings Sarah DuBois, new work Claude Debussy, Danses, sacreé et profane Gerald Levinson, new work for string orchestra Henri Dutilleux, Mystère de l’instant (Please note: all dates and times are subject to change.)

267/687-6243 www.orchestra2001.org


TABLE OF CONTENTS OPENER

THE HOODS

4

34

The Complete Hoods Map

35

Old City/Washington Square West

39

Rittenhouse/Center City West

43

Gayborhood/Midtown Village

46

Society Hill/South Street East

50

Chinatown/Loft District

52

Bella Vista/Queen Village

54

Graduate Hospital/Grays Ferry/

Letter from the Editor: You Belong to the City

THE BASICS 10 PHILADELPHIA

You are welcome.

12 DEMOCRACY NOW (OR LATER)

Philly’s government may not be a model of efficiency, but it gets the job done — eventually.

13 BOOZE CLUES

What do you mean I can’t buy beer at the grocery store?

14 THE FOUR FOUNDATIONS OF BICYCLE MINDFULNESS

In Philadelphia, the alert cyclist pedals the lonely path to enlightenment.

16 BICYCLE SHOPS & RESOURCES 18 THE PARTY LINE

Philadelphia: Hosting killer festivals since 1776.

20 PHILLY IN FOUR MEALS

photo by Neal Santos

Our resident expert on local cuisine dishes out her top recommendations.

21 BUMPIN’ THE NIGHT

How to play it fast and loose till last call.

22 SEPTA/REGIONAL RAIL MAP

A complete visual guide to Philly’s public transit system.

24 THE SPORTING LIFE

If we don’t win, it’s a shame.

25 INTO THE WOODS

Take a hike and find your Zen in Fairmount Park.

26 GROWING STEADY

Farmers markets, CSAs and container gardens encourage a more sustainable Philly.

28 TRICKS OF THE TREK

The city’s hidden treasures trump its most obvious traps.

30 TANK UP

It’s all you’ll need to get out of town every season of the year.

South Street West

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East Passyunk/Italian Market

58

South Philly

61

Southwest Philly

62

West Philly/University City

66

Manayunk/Roxborough/East Falls

68

Germantown/Mount Airy/Chestnut Hill

70

Fairmount/Art Museum

72

Northern Liberties

77

North Philly

78

Port Fishington

80

The Northeast

82

Olney/East Oak Lane


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BASICS WELCOME TO PHILLY


location Broad Street photo by Neal Santos


words by Patrick Rapa & Brian Howard

THE BASICS

historical timeline

PHILADELPHIA

1854 Consolidated! Up till this point, Philadelphia proper was simply the area between the Delaware and Schuylkill rivers and Vine and South streets. During the act of consolidation, 30 surrounding townships, boroughs and districts were carefully selected and cobbled together to form the precise shape of a pork chop.

YOU ARE WELCOME.

In the Beginning Aliens came to Earth and got married to monkeys and had little caveman babies. As time went on, our posture improved somewhat and we got a bit less hairy. We spread out in teams across the planet like it was a scavenger hunt, which it kinda was back then. 1682 Billy Puts a Ring on It Step aside, Lenapeeps, Finnzies, Dutchwives and Swedeypies — Penn got a permission slip from Charles II to found Philadelphia in the name of England! The charter called for a “greene country towne” full of parks and trees. Philadelphians instead subdivided their lots and began gathering in unsanitary crowds in Old City, a tradition that continues to this day.

1682

1706

Pre-Colonial Before the old-school New World had Philadelphia, it had Shackamaxon; and a Leni Lenape Indian village stood in the place we now call Kensington. The residents hunted, gathered and farmed. Same kinda stuff still goes on there. According to legend, Chief Tamanend signed a treaty with William Penn under an elm tree that later blew down in a storm. You can visit the Lenape today in Oklahoma!

1706-1790 Ben Franklin: Inventor’s Inventor Besides founding the continent’s first newspaper, hospital and library, ol’ Ben invented the lightning rod, the iron furnace stove, odometer, bifocals and, when he was a kid, flippers. Heard he was a kind of a perv, too.

1774

1799-1848 Let’s Get It Started For a while there, Philadelphia was the one-stop shop for a young nation on the go. We had the nation’s first water works, daily newspaper, art institution, carbonated water, abolition act, insurance company, public bank, you name it. Still living off the royalties, too.

1793

1799

1854

1793 You give me fever This was the summer Philadelphians started barfing up blood clots. Spread by mosquitoes, yellow fever claimed 5,000 victims. Many of them are buried in Washington Square Park. They rise up one night a year to haunt the crap out of us. You’ll see.

1774-1781 Down with the King No offense to our Brit papas, but after all the unrepped taxes and flavorless food — it was time to cut the cord. So we had a big fight. Philly was the epicenter for colonial dissent, hosting two Continental Congresses (a record!) and vanity-pressing Common Sense, the Declaration and the Constitution. After the war, we were the capital of the United States, until we got bored of it.


1981 and 1985 A Series of Unfortunate Events The moments that continue to define and haunt modern Philadelphia are two instances of violence involving AfricanAmericans and the police. On a December day in 1981, fate’s crossroads were at 13th and Locust; so were Mumia Abu-Jamal and officer Daniel Faulkner. In 1985, Mayor Wilson Goode and the PPD made the curious decision to drop a bomb on the Osage Avenue compound of anarcho-primitivist organization MOVE. Since then, race relations have been great and our cops are gentle as Beanie Babies. Also in ’85, we broke ground on our first skyscraper thus ending the city’s “gentlemen’s agreement” not to build taller than the Billy Penn statue on City Hall. After that, our sports teams stopped winning and everybody was saying we were cursed for a while there. Turn of the 20th Century Don’t Do Me Like That Once the most important city in the universe, Philadelphia started getting a rep for political corruption and resistance to change. The mob was everywhere, Prohibition was openly mocked and our cops were crookeder than our hockey players’ noses. A real live brigadier general, one Smedley Butler was brought in to clean up the town by militarizing the police force and declaring war on speakeasies and hookers. Dude lasted about a week.

1876

1900

1876 A Century Under the Influence 100 years after juking the Brits out of the colonies, the United States, like some overcompensating nouveau-riche douchebag, threw a massive rager — the Centennial International Exposition! The first World’s Fair! — in Fairmount Park. We all gazed at modern marvels and, when everyone finally went home, we left some of the buildings standing cuz everybody loves a party but nobody wants to clean up.

1950

1992 Mayor Ed In 1991, Ed Rendell, a nondescript former DA, made his second run for mayor, this time defeating Frank “billy club in my cummerbund” Rizzo, who by that time was deceased. Ed’s voracious appetite is considered the driving factor behind Philadelphia’s economic turnaround, which saw once-decrepit Center City blossom into one huge restaurant district. He’s gone on to become governor and a bigwig Democrat.

1973

1981

1992

1973-83 We Win! A Lot! Between 1973 and 1983, Philadelphia was the toast of the sports world. The Flyers won two Stanley Cups, the Phillies won a World Series, the Sixers won an NBA title, and the Eagles lost in the Super Bowl.

Post-WWII Anybody Else Want to Drive? Philly’s population peaked at more than 2 million in 1950. Then came white flight: Caucasians flocked to the suburbs, led by Connie Mack’s Philadelphia A’s, who ran all the way to Kansas City.

2008

2008 We Rule/You Drool Concluding a 25-year sports championship drought that had steadily eroded the city’s self-esteem, the Phillies won the World Series. Team leader Chase Utley celebrated by dropping the F-bomb — World Fuckin’ Champions — on live television. If we could have elected him emperor at that moment, we would have.


words by Jeffrey C. Billman photo by Neal Santos

THE BASICS

munici-pals

DEMOCRACY NOW (OR LATER) PHILLY’S GOVERNMENT MAY NOT BE A MODEL OF EFFICIENCY, BUT IT GETS THE JOB DONE — EVENTUALLY. First thing you need to know: This is a big city, and it has big city problems. Drugs, crime, poverty, urban decay, unemployment, racial tension — you name it, we’ve got it. If you have basic cable, you know that the Philadelphia Parking Authority is vicious to the core. (You probably don’t know that it’s a Republican patronage machine; the GOP controls about 500 PPA jobs. Neat, huh?) If you’ve had the displeasure of trying to open an account with the city’s water department, then you’ve gotten but a taste of Philly’s byzantine bureaucracy. If you’ve received your first paycheck, you’ve realized that you’re living in a high-tax city: wage taxes on top of state income taxes on top of an 8 percent sales tax on top of property taxes on top of fees for everything imaginable. (Have a dog? The city would like you to register it: $8-$16 per year, please.)

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CITYPAPER PRIMER 2010 - 2011

in the right place. And heck, if the economy bounces back, maybe his goal of making Philly America’s greenest city will actually materialize.

Despite that, this city is perpetually broke, suffocated by an out-of-control pension fund and a diminishing tax base. And we’ve not yet touched on the city’s scandal-plagued police force, or the screw-you-got-mine mentality of the municipal and transit unions, or the fact that this state’s legislature breeds corruption like swamps breed mosquitoes.

And you’re here just in time for the fun: Next year, the mayor and the entire City Council, all 19 seats, are up for election. A helpful hint: Register as a Democrat (do it at the DMV, which strangely enough is quite efficient here), no matter your ideological leanings. Since Dems outnumber Republicans seven to one, the real elections come in the May primaries.

But chin up, newbie: It’s not all bad. City government has its redeeming qualities. We’re fairly progressive on social issues, and about as gay-friendly (officially, anyway) and anti discrimination as cities not named San Francisco come. We’ve got some good watchdogs in the Committee of Seventy (seventy.org), some bright lights on City Council — Bill Green and Maria Quiñones-Sánchez, to name a couple — and in Michael Nutter a mayor who, though he hasn’t had the best of luck these last few years, is at least honest and has his heart

There’s more weirdness in our system: Of those 19 Council seats, 12 belong to specific districts; the remaining seven are at-large, meaning the entire city votes on them. The top five Democrats make it; so, too, do the top-two Republican votegetters, who, though they always earn fewer votes than every Democrat on the ballot, are guaranteed spots on Council by the city charter. Follow City Paper’s news, opinion and sports blog, The Clog (citypaper.net/clog), for reports from City Hall’s trenches.


words by Isaiah Thompson photo by Neal Santos

THE BASICS

drinking problem

BOOZE CLUES

WHAT DO YOU MEAN I CAN’T BUY BEER AT THE GROCERY STORE? Two years ago, when I was assigned my first Primer magazine rant about Pennsylvania’s beer and liquor laws, I took on the challenge with a kind of lighthearted amusement. Two years and God only knows how many $13 six-packs later, there’s nothing funny about it: Philadelphians, we are blessed to live in a city full of good, cheap bars stocked with superb microbrews, but cursed — cursed, I say — to live in a state with such mind-bogglingly, nail-bitingly, drug-use-inducingly cockamamy booze laws as to give cause for outright revolt. Beer Party, anyone? But until that day comes, we must bear the yoke of oppression. Here’s the deal: In order to protect Pennsylvania’s citizens from good prices, convenience and the terrible efficiency of the free

market, the state allows the purchase of wine and liquor only from state stores, and the purchase of beer only in cases — because everyone’s got a car and 30 bucks on them, right? — from stateauthorized distributors, or in six-packs from authorized retailers (which sell at twice the cost). The newest twist in this bad joke is that the Pennsylvania Liquor Control Board (PLCB) is testing new “wine kiosks” in a few select supermarkets. If the test goes well, you might be able to buy a bottle of wine in a supermarket — like you can almost anywhere else — before you die. Another twist: The PLCB has inexplicably allowed one — and one only, thanks so much — “wine boutique,” located in the Gayborhood’s Jose Garces Trading Co. It’s a scandal, an outrage,

and hypocrisy at its finest — but yes, you can buy wine there. Another good location: Reading Terminal Market’s Blue Mountain Vineyards Cellars Ltd. In terms of beer, there are a few options. Many bars around town offer beer for carry-out, and many have (relative) deals — South Philly’s Pub on Passyunk East, aka P.O.P.E., offers sixers of Philadelphia Brewing Co. beers for $10 — and the cheaper the beer, the easier it’ll be to get a decently priced six-pack. You can pay out the wazoo for good beer in small quantities at places like the Foodery in Northern Liberties and Center City; Best House and Garden Court Eatery in West Philly; Mulberry Market in Old City; and the recently opened Hawthornes (across the street from brews-in-bulk go-to Bella Vista Beer Distributors). I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again: There’s only one legal way out of this mess, and it’s to brew your own. Go to Rittenhouse’s Home Sweet Homebrew or South Philly’s Barry’s Homebrew Outlet and get started. Visit City Paper’s food and drink blog, Meal Ticket, at citypaper.net/mealticket.

WWW.CITYPAPER.NET

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words by Patrick Rapa photos by Neal Santos

THE BASICS

two wheels

THE FOUR FOUNDATIONS OF BICYCLE MINDFULNESS IN PHILADELPHIA, THE ALERT CYCLIST PEDALS THE LONELY PATH TO ENLIGHTENMENT. Awareness of the Bike: On the road you must become one with your bicycle, connected at the feet, hands and (during carefree moments) the butt, so choose one that fits you. Any merchant who can sell a bike should be able to help you find one that matches your height and proportions, with seat and handlebar adjustments if necessary. After that, it’s up to you to keep the bond strong. Pump up the tires to cantaloupe-firmness every few weeks, grease the chain so it is a noiseless and frictionless organ, and purchase good strong locks — I prefer the two U-Lock system — lest your bike become one with somebody else when you’re not looking. As they do in all major cities, thieves prowl the sidewalks of Philadelphia with bolt-cutters in their hands and evil in their hearts. Vigilance! 14

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Awareness of the Body: Pedaling up the Parkway at 3 a.m. might instill in you a feeling of invincibility, but you don’t own the road. It owns you. Stay alert to the impermanence of your physical form. Wear a helmet, even on the harsh jalapeño days of summer. Subdue flapping pant cuffs with tucking, rolling or tethering. Eschew blossoming bell bottoms, constricting skirts or anaconda-length scarves. Spokes and chains may be stopped suddenly by carry-ons and errant bits of wardrobe; your flesh and blood, however, might continue the journey for a while. Awareness of the Road: Do not bike on the sidewalk. Philadelphia has made attempts to up its bike-lane quotient in recent years — like those supple, bumpy shoulders up Spruce and down

Pine. Still, some ancient hazards remain. Vintage cobblestones and trolley tracks (some of which haven’t guided a trolley in quite some time) are notorious for causing tires to slip and crotches to bruise. Certain sewer grates appear to be designed to accept your tires like a jukebox welcomes your quarters. Awareness of the Mind: Don’t bike with your earbuds in, or while texting, or while holding a phone to your head. The only thing keeping you upright on your two wheels is an uncorrupted state of alertness. Cars, buses, horses, delivery trucks, trolleys, other bikers, skaters, absent-minded pedestrians, cruel baby-sitters who test traffic with strollers, cops who run stop signs because they can, drivers who run stop signs because the cops aren’t around — your path is beset on all sides, righteous bicyclist. But if your heart is true, your body sound and your mind instilled with the wise, deep focus of the Hubble Telescope as you pedal toward your destination, then you will have done all you can do. The rest is up to the universe.


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BICYCLE SHOPS & RESOURCES BiciMundo 1500 S. Eighth St., 215-755-2001 Bicycle Coalition of Greater Philadelphia 1500 Walnut St., Suite 1107, 215-242-9253, bicyclecoalition.org The Bicycle Network Mayor’s Office of Transportation & Utilities, 1401 John F. Kennedy Blvd., Suite 1430, 215-686-6835, phila.gov Bicycle Revolutions 712 S. Fourth St., 215-629-2453, bicyclerevolutions.com

Firehouse Bicycles 50 and Baltimore Ave., 215-727-9692, firehousebicycles.com Frankinstien Bikeworx 1529 Spruce St., 215-893-0415, frankinstienbikeworx.com Human Zoom 4159 Main St., 215-487-7433, humanzoom.com Jay’s Pedal Power Bikes 512 E. Girard Ave., 215-425-5111, jayspedalpower.com Mexibike 1139 S. Ninth St., 267-886-8498

Bicycle Stable 1420 Frankford Ave., 215-634-0633, bicyclestable.com

Mikesbikes 1901 S. 13th St., 215-334-9100, mikesbikesphilly.com

Bicycle Therapy 2211 South St., 215-735-7849, bicycletherapy.com

Neighborhood Bike Works/Bike Church 3916 Locust Walk, 215-386-0316, neighborhoodbikeworks.org

Bicycle Club of Philadelphia phillybikeclub.org Bicycle Access Council Box 92, 465 Dairyland Drive, Dallastown, 717-417-1299, bicycleaccess-pa.org

Phila Bicycles Inc. 826 N. Broad St., 215-765-9118 Philly Electric Wheels 550 Carpenter Lane, 215-821-9266, phillyew.com

Bike Line of Philadelphia 1028 Arch St., 215-923-1310, bikeline.com

Philly Naked Bike Ride phillynakedbikeride.org

Bilenky Cycle Works 5319 N. Second St., 215-329-4744, bilenky.com

Quaker City Wheelmen qcwcycling.org

Breakaway Bikes 1923 Chestnut St., 215-568-6002, breakawaybikes.com

Sturdy Girl Cycling sturdygirlcycling.com

Doctor Cycles 3608 Lancaster Ave., 215-823-6780, doctorcycles.com

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CITYPAPER PRIMER 2010 - 2011

Trophy Bikes 3131 Walnut St., 215-222-2020, trophybikes.com

Via Bicycle 606 S. Ninth St., 215-627-3370, bikeville.com Volpe Cycles 2559 E Dauphin St., 215-291-0363 Wissahickon Cyclery 7837 Germantown Ave., 215-248-2829, wiss-cycles.com Neighborhood Bike Works/Bike Church 3916 Locust Walk, 215-386-0316, neighborhoodbikeworks.org Phila Bicycles Inc. 826 N. Broad St., 215-765-9118 Philly Electric Wheels 550 Carpenter Lane, 215-821-9266, phillyew.com Philly Naked Bike Ride phillynakedbikeride.org Quaker City Wheelmen qcwcycling.org Sturdy Girl Cycling sturdygirlcycling.com Trophy Bikes 3131 Walnut St., 215-222-2020, trophybikes.com Via Bicycle 606 S. Ninth St., 215-627-3370, bikeville.com Volpe Cycles 2559 E Dauphin St., 215-291-0363 Wissahickon Cyclery 7837 Germantown Ave., 215-248-2829, wiss-cycles.com


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words by Holly Otterbein photos by Neal Santos

THE BASICS

big event(s)

THE PARTY LINE PHILADELPHIA: HOSTING KILLER FESTIVALS SINCE 1776. Mummers Parade One of the weirdest things about Philadelphia is the way it celebrates New Year’s Day (above and opposite top left). Hundreds of men — mostly bluecollared workers from South Philly and Fishtown — dress up in feathered, beaded and bedazzled costumes so flamboyant, Cher would blush to look at them. They then prance up Broad Street, sing, show off their floats and perform elaborate skits, all with their proud kids and wives in tow. So much for sauerkraut. Jan. 1, phillymummers.com. Equality Forum Gay Philadelphia knows how to throw a party. We’ve got Philly Pride, the Philly Dyke March, the GLBT Arts Festival, QFest and the Philadelphia Gay & Lesbian Theatre Festival, not to mention the fact that new LGBTQ-themed arts jubilees pop up here as frequently as marriage amendment proposals do in the Midwest. Still, the Equality Forum is the queen of all Philly gay fests. It’s seven days long, has featured big-shot speakers like San Francisco Mayor Gavin Newsom and culminates

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in an old-fashioned demonstration in the streets. Late April/early May, equalityforum.com. Kensington Kinetic Sculpture Derby Don’t confuse the Kensington Kinetic Sculpture Derby for a race. It’s not the team that finishes first that wins, but the one that gets there looking the best. That can mean anything from cruising on a Ghostbusters-themed tricycle to riding a metallic dragon on wheels while donning Amish zombie costumes. Also, the derby usually coincides with the Trenton Avenue Arts Festival, the biggest arts sale in K-town. So, if you can’t make your own piece of man-powered folk art, you can probably buy someone else’s. Mid-May, kinetickensington.com. Art Star Craft Bazaar In 2003, Erin Waxman and Megan Brewster, owners of the Art Star Gallery & Boutique, founded what is now one of country’s most beloved crafting events (take that, Brooklyn). The Art Star Craft Bazaar features more than 140 vendors, live music

and food over two days. And now all those hip New Yorkers drive two hours down I-95 just to get to it. Late May, artstarcraftbazaar.com. Philly Beer Week Its name may sound like an ill-conceived Greek challenge, but Philly Beer Week is a race to develop wet brain only if you want it to be. The festival crams hundreds of beer tastings, boozy brunches, foodie (drinkie?) lectures and meet-the-brewer events into 10 serious days. It can be a challenge to get through them. Don’t drink every heady brew you meet. Take a day off. Sip lots of H2O — but not all at once. As Monk’s/Belgian Café owner Tom Peters told City Paper last year, “It’s like rain. A light, steady rain gets absorbed into the ground, while a quick, heavy downpour runs off to the storm drains.” Early June, phillybeerweek.org. Odunde Festival Each June, we celebrate the new year like Nigeria’s Yoruba population does. (“Odunde” means “Happy New Year!” in Yoruba.) A ton of people saunter


down South Street, throw flowers and fruit into the Schuylkill River, and then head back to the main base for dance, theater, live music, and great eats from Ghana, Nigeria, Senegal and Guinea. Second weekend in June, odundeinc.org. West Oak Lane Jazz & Arts Festival For three sparkling days in June, North Philly feels an awful lot like N’awlins. A Mardi Grasthemed parade, a Grand Marshal, more than 40 big bands, jazz trios, jazz duos and jazz solos, plus a craft marketplace to tie it all up into a pretty bow — the West Oak Lane Jazz & Arts Festival is an honorable tribute to the Big Easy. Best of all, there’s a free citywide shuttle service shlepping people to and fro the fest — so let the good times roll. Late June, westoaklanefestival.com. Wawa Welcome America! Festival Blame it on the Liberty Bell or our ties to Ben Franklin, but Philadelphians think they invented the Fourth of July. We didn’t, actually, but Philly was the nation’s capital at the time, and some of

the founding fathers got toasted here to celebrate, so that counts, right? Not that is matters to the hordes of people who descend upon Ben Franklin Parkway, stampede-like, for the annual Independence Day fest featuring fireworks, barbecue, ice cream and free music from favorite sons and daughters who’ve included The Roots, John Legend, Patti LaBelle and Hall & Oates. And see if you don’t get freedom-fried. July 4, americasbirthday.com. Live Arts Festival & Philly Fringe Think of the Live Arts Festival as your exceedingly picky friend and Philly Fringe as the co-worker who’ll date anyone. The metaphor isn’t intended to disrespect the concurrent, 16-day performing arts bonanzas — it just means that Live Arts presents a dozen-ish curated, cream-of-thecrop, take-home-to-Mom shows from around the world, and Philly Fringe features nearly 200 new, local artists who don’t go through a selection process. The latter is still jammed with talent, and

it’s proof that our city doesn’t only love you when you’re hot. Sept. 3-18, livearts-fringe.org. Philly Naked Bike Ride Some argue that Naked Bike Rides do more harm than good, further alienating bike moderates and making a worthy transportation method look like a liberals-only, wackadoodle throw-down. We at City Paper respectfully disagree. Last year’s Naked Bike Ride not only succeeded in shredding bodyimage expectations and displaying how vulnerable bikers are, but perhaps more importantly, it was also a blast. Like a modern-day Feast of Fools, its joy was in briefly, safely suspending that most sacred social norm, and, just for once, doing what our inner primate would — get naked. Sept. 5, phillynakedbikeride.org.

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words by Carolyn Wyman photo by Neal Santos

THE BASICS

food for thought

PHILLY IN FOUR MEALS

OUR RESIDENT EXPERT ON LOCAL CUISINE DISHES OUT HER TOP RECOMMENDATIONS. Limited time can really focus the mind. That’s why I always answer questions about the best food in Philly with a question of my own: How many meals will you be eating here? Of course, there’s tons of good eating of all kinds in Philly, but time-pressed moderns need to know: What’s the very best? What’s characteristic? What great food can you get here and nowhere else? In short, what should your eating priorities be in Philly?

Meal one: Have a sandwich. Philly’s blue-collar background has blessed this city with wonderful street food. The sandwich was a way for manual laborers to bring their home cuisine to work, putting Philly way ahead of the rest of the country in popularizing and elevating this portable food. I recommend an Italian hoagie from Lombardi’s or Primo, or a vegetarian eggplant one from Chickie’s Italian Deli; a cheesesteak

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from Philip’s, Johnny’s Hots or Dalessandro’s; or a roast pork sandwich from DiNic’s or John’s. Meal two: BYOB. Philadelphians have their arcane liquor laws to thank for one of the largest concentrations of bring-your-own-bottle restaurants of any city in the country, and they should give thanks because these quirky places serve tasty, interesting food at reasonable prices (in part because most of your money isn’t going for drinks). Some of my favorite BYOs include Chloe, Dmitri’s, Melograno, Radicchio, Tre Scalini and L’Angolo. Meal three: Drop some coin. Go to a fun theme restaurant by Stephen Starr or Jose Garces. These two Philly restaurateurs are responsible for putting our high-end dining scene on par with our storied low-brow one. Starr’s Buddakan (with its giant Buddha statute) and Pod (think the cartoon Jetsons), and Garces’ Distrito (with its luchador

masks and open washroom) will please the whole family and, unlike theme restaurants in many other places, also have excellent food. Meal four: Eat at a gastropub. Philly is arguably the best beer-drinking city on the East Coast. Even more than its history of beer-making and excellent local microbrews, what makes it so are our full-of-character neighborhood bars with food as good as the drink. Chefs at Standard Tap, Monk’s (pictured), Good Dog and Lucky 13 either used to work at high-end spots or could be, but in these casual surroundings their foodcraft goes for cheap. Here, too, is where short-term visitors can drown their sorrows about this being their last meal in Philly, and new residents can toast the beginning of their eating explorations in this delicious metropolis. Carolyn Wyman is City Paper’s assistant copy editor, author of The Great Philly Cheesesteak Book and guide for the Taste of Philly Food Tour at Reading Terminal Market.


words by John Vettese photo by Neal Santos

THE BASICS

philly after dark

BUMPIN’ THE NIGHT HOW TO PLAY IT FAST AND LOOSE TILL LAST CALL. Not to generalize night owls, but if you’re out past 10 in Philadelphia, your evening probably involves drinking, dancing, rocking or some combination thereof. Choices are many, and confusion is common — even for seasoned scenesters. Let’s get you up to speed. If you just want to drink … We can’t say enough about National Mechanics in Old City — it’s centrally located, has affordable craft drafts, and framed insect specimens adorn the back wall. Don’t dig creepy-crawly art staring at you while waiting to pee? South Philly’s P.O.P.E. — that’s Pub on Passyunk East — has a more classic bar décor, with dusky corners and clever decorations to admire while you nurse your Ommegang Witte. Out west, Local 44 marries the two with comfy furnishings and a great menu; dig its brilliant balance of vegetarian, vegan and meaty food, and its smart, ever-changing selection of local brews on tap.

If you just want to dance … The versatile, South Street-adjacent Fluid hosts it all: hip-hop and dubstep, new wave and gogo rock. Up the street, Lickety Split rocks punk and metal at its Crash Bang Thursdays. Northern Liberties’ 700 Club remains a strong source for kitschy pop, hip-hop and classic roller-skate jams, while Center City’s Raven Lounge lets you kick off your week with Steve Ferrell and his Soul 45s. If you just want to rock … Fishtown’s Johnny Brenda’s (pictured) has become a powerhouse of the rock club circuit; if you like live music at all, you’ll find yourself here at least once a week. Over in University City, The Blockley Pourhouse is making a valiant effort in the same department — Psychedelic Furs played there, after all. Pound for pound, though, the most exciting live music in Philly is at its many DIY all-ages show spaces. But since they’re only semi-legal and we’re not about blowing their cover, seek them out on your

own — but first, get a taste at legit rooms J.R.’s Bar in South Philly and Danger Danger Gallery in West Philly. If you want it all … Silk City’s always been a DJ hot spot — King Britt’s Back2Basics party has run there forever — and during the week you might catch a great Philly band like Prowler or Robes. Likewise, Fishtown’s Kung Fu Necktie hosts exciting shows with a strong avant/experimental bent, but also has regular DJ nights. The Barbary boasts emerging indie showcases as well as parties where you can hear Britpop, indie dance and classic goth/industrial. And in the Gayborhood, Voyeur has a Latin night, spins house classics at its Peep Show party, and throws its doors open to burgeoning indie acts and hundreds of eager fans at Dave P’s regular Making Time soirees. Good night, and good luck. Visit City Paper’s A+E blog, Critical Mass, at citypaper. net/criticalmass.

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THE BASICS

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words by E. James Beale photo by Philadelphia Flyers/Getty Images

THE BASICS

home teams

THE SPORTING LIFE IF WE DON’T WIN, IT’S A SHAME.

Here in Philadelphia, we’re obsessed with sports. We’re obsessed with our winners (the Phillies), our losers (the 76ers) and our bizarre (the Philly Roller Girls, the local roller derby team). We can’t stop thinking about who our teams sign (rarely, if ever, the guy we want), why they’re sucking (in our eyes, they’re always sucking), and what we would do better if we were in charge (everything). Which means that if you’re here in Philadelphia for a night, a week or a lifetime, you’re going to get stuck in a conversation about sports. Here are a few talking points for when you do. Baseball: Coming off two straight World Series appearances, the Phillies are our town’s resident gold standard. They appear primed for success now and in the future. Naturally this has confused their world-is-ending fanbase. Fun fact: Citizens Bank Park boasts fantastic, veggie-friendly stadium food. Football: The Eagles are Philadelphia’s professional football team, though they are also known as the Birds and, sigh, the Iggles. They dress in white and kelly green, own the city’s most rabid fan base and, despite the four-month season, are discussed year-round. Expect them to be competitive but

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lose in the playoffs. Helpful hint: Do not show up to the Linc in any opposing team’s jersey, ever. Basketball: While the 76ers may be the biggest name, it’s college ball that is the true pinnacle of local hoops. Villanova, Penn, St. Joe’s, La Salle and Temple form the historic, informal “Big Five” Philadelphia conference, which traditionally plays at Penn’s Palestra in West Philadelphia. The Big 5 creed is, “They say there is no real prize for winning the Big 5. They must not be from Philly.” True story: Philadelphia is where coaches go to die. Doug Collins, the 76ers’ newest coach, is their seventh in seven years. Hockey: After miraculously making the Stanley Cup finals in 2010, expectations are high for Philadelphia’s professional hockey team, the Flyers. Easily the winningest professional franchise in the city, the Flyers’ rough-and-tumble style of play earned their mid-’70s championship teams the nickname “Broad Street Bullies,” a moniker the city instantly embraced. Hilarious anecdote: A couple years ago, the young core of the Flyers team crashed a Temple frat party, drank their beers and seduced their dates.

Everything else: Naturally, a city this obsessed with sports wouldn’t stop with just the “big four” franchises. The Philadelphia area is home to The Union (major league soccer), the Wings (lacrosse), the Kixx (indoor soccer), the Freedom (team tennis), the aforementioned hard-hitting, trash-talking, near-naked-being Philly Roller Girls, and the Phillies’ minor league affiliates. The city also hosts the Legendary Blue Horizon, a gym once rated as the best boxing venue in the world; the Penn Relays, the oldest and largest track and field competition in the U.S.; the Philadelphia International Championship, the final leg of the one-week, three-race Commerce Bank Triple Crown of Cycling circuit; the annual Broad Street Run; the Army-Navy football game; more than a dozen Mixed Martial Arts gyms; the famous Sonny Hill Youth Basketball League; Valley Green’s bike and running trails; and much, much more. E. James Beale’s column, The Sports Complex, appears in City Paper.


words by Holly Otterbein photo by Neal Santos

THE BASICS

mother nature

INTO THE WOODS TAKE A HIKE AND FIND YOUR ZEN IN FAIRMOUNT PARK. An urbanite can’t live on blacktop, crowds and convenience alone. Sometimes, you just gotta be one with nature. When that hunger hits to see more trees than humans — and you don’t have a car/money/time to explore the beautifully bucolic rural Pennsylvania — head to Fairmount Park. It stretches out over 9,200 acres, and has a total of 63 parks in its network. That’s a lot of options, so we’ve broken down the park’s highlights for you. Outside of that, it’s up to you to explore what your Momma (Nature) and William Penn gave you. Get to know the park’s history: In 1876, Fairmount Park played host to the biggest party this city has ever seen. Larger than both the Pride Parade and the Roots Picnic, the Centennial Exposition — the first World’s Fair — brought in 10 million visitors. Some of the structures built for the event still stand tall: There’s Memorial Hall (pleasetouchmuseum. org), which was where the first Philadelphia Museum of Art lived and is now the kid-friendly Please Touch Museum, and the Centennial Arboretum (fairmountpark.org/hortcenter.asp),

whose soil still holds the Asian and European trees that were planted there in 1876. It wasn’t until 1958, however, that the park acquired the Japanese House (pictured, shofuso.com), made to look like it’s from the 17th century. See what urban farming looked like nearly 300 years ago: Long before Grid magazine or CSAs, there was John Bartram. The legendary plants geek founded Bartram’s Garden (bartramsgarden. org), the oldest botanic garden on this continent, in the 1720s. It’s still home to a huge array of North American species, including the rare Franklinia alatamaha tree (named after Bartram’s pal Ben Franklin), as well as an original cider press, 1.5 acres of wetlands and regular archaeological digs that you can sit in on. Go up a tree: Fairmount Park is home to at least two treehouses that could rival anything the Swiss Family Robinson made. Martin Puryear’s sculpture “Pavilion in the Trees” (fairmountpark.org hortcenter.asp) offers a breathtaking view from

its 30-foot-tall canopy. And the Morris Arboretum’s installation “Out on a Limb” (morrisarboretum.com) is just plain epic: It’s 450 feet tall, wraps around a 250-year-old oak tree, and houses a man-made bird’s nest that was crafted from old branches. Do the tourist thing: Technically, the great Philadelphia Museum of Art (philamuseum. org), the city’s focal point Benjamin Franklin Parkway and the people-watcher paradise Boathouse Row (boathouserow.org) are all in Fairmount Park. They’re Philly staples, and you should see them. Swim (no, seriously): Devil’s Pool, a swimming hole in the Wissahickon Valley reachable by a gnarly footpath or a picturesque bridge, is such a sleeper that most Philly lifers don’t even know about it. Directions are varied and complicated, so Google ’em. And be cautious: Terrain at Devil’s Pool is rugged, surfaces are slippery, and help is far away. Bring sturdy shoes and a first aid kit, and think twice before you swan dive off those glorious rocks.

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words by Char Vandermeer photo by Neal Santos

THE BASICS

green thumbs

GROWING STEADY

FARMERS MARKETS, CONTAINER GARDENS AND COMMUNITYSUPPORTED AGRICULTURE ENCOURAGE A MORE SUSTAINABLE PHILLY. Yo, drop that cheesesteak and grab a hoe: Join the budding masses of Philadelphians dedicated to eating, growing and living green. Catch the gardening bug by grabbing a few discarded 5-gallon buckets (go trash-picking, you’ll be surprised) and plopping a nice San Marzano tomato into one; herbs like basil, oregano, chives and cilantro into another; and an impossible-to-kill jalapeño into the third — you’ve got an instant salsa-and-sauce garden. Worried your thumb isn’t green enough? Attend a few of the Pennsylvania Horticultural Society’s (pennsylvaniahorticulturalsociety.org) free Gardening Series workshops held throughout the spring and summer months, and you’ll be hoeing like a pro. And by all means, avoid the big box stores’ anemic seedlings and place an order with Startin’ Yer Garten (startinyergarten. wordpress.com) — you’ll receive regular status updates as capable hands lovingly raise your

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garden-to-be into hardy, transplant-ready sets. If you’re feeling truly ambitious, start from scratch and pick up a few packets of Happy Cat Organics (happycatorganics.com) seeds at your local farmers market. Speaking of which, reduce food-mile fuel consumption and support The Food Trust’s (thefoodtrust.org) efforts to bring local, affordable produce into just about every Philadelphia neighborhood by grabbing a tote bag and going shopping. Do yourself a favor and try Culton Organics’ chartreuse fractal wonder of a romanesco at the Headhouse Square Farmers Market; all Food Trust markets accept WIC, Farmers Market Nutrition Program vouchers and EBT access cards. If the enthusiastic crowds impede your ability to grab the perfect turnip, join a CSA (which stands for Community-Supported Agriculture). For about half the year and roughly $25-$30 per

week, you can stock your fridge to overflowing with fresh, leafy deliciousness. Greensgrow Farm (2501 E. Cumberland St., 215-427-2702, greensgrow.org) collaborates with a wide network of area farmers, brewers, cheesemakers and apiarists to offer members all sorts of treats that go beyond the traditional zucchini-chard-andcucumber mix. They offer full and half shares, as well as reduced-cost work shares and low-income shares to qualifying members. If meat’s your thing, check out Keystone Farm (keystonefarmcsa.org) and pick up your pre-packaged share at Clark Park’s farmers market (pictured). And if keeping your weekends free is a priority, the Lancaster Farm Fresh Cooperative (lancasterfarmfresh. com) delivers to sites throughout the city. All that healthy eating produces a surprising amount of leafy waste. Fret not and give back to the Earth that’s been feeding you so well: Sign up for Bennett Compost (215-520-2406, bennettcompost.com) and compost elves will appear at your doorstep once a week to remove a bucket’s worth of future goodness. Or, follow the DIY path provided by the good people at Philly Compost (215-703-SOIL, phillycompost.com).


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words by Molly Eichel photo by Neal Santos

THE BASICS

secret tourism

TRICKS OF THE TREK THIS CITY’S HIDDEN TREASURES TRUMP ITS MOST OBVIOUS TRAPS. Parents in town? Trying to impress a girl? Bored on a Saturday afternoon? Instead of following the socks-and-sandaled masses from the Liberty Bell to the Art Museum steps, hop off the beaten path: It’ll be like exploring Philly for the very first time, whether you’ve lived here for a minute or a decade. You can’t miss Rittenhouse Square’s Rosenbach Museum & Library, an under-appreciated gem in a residential neighborhood that houses rare paintings, furniture and books — most notably an entire collection dedicated to Where the Wild Things Are and its quirky author, Maurice Sendak. For a more modern experience, head to the Institute of Contemporary Art (Weird paintings! Free admission!), and while you’re out in West Philly, hit up the gorgeous Ellen Powell Tiberino Memorial Museum, which pays tribute to one talented Philly family’s unforgettable matriarch. You really shouldn’t miss the Mütter Museum at 22nd and Ludlow, an archive of

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medical oddities from cringe-worthy old-school surgical instruments to a replica of a 9-foot-long colon.

about Poe’boy. For example, he wrote some of his most famous works here. Baltimore may have Poe’s body, but Philly’s got his soul.

Saying “eeew, gross!” so often is bound to make you work up an appetite (trust us: Museum first, food second), so head down south to John’s Roast Pork, a culinary gem sans the flash of the more prominent cheesesteakeries along east Passyunk Avenue. If Whiz isn’t your bag of cheese, take a stroll down the Italian Market (Ninth Street from Wharton up to Christian Street and beyond) and pick up something fresh, or hit up a hoagie joint — Sarcone’s seeded-roll Sinatra can’t be beat.

Take time to soak in the scenery at Philadelphia’s Magic Gardens on South Street (pictured), where you can wander through mosaic mazes created by renowned glass gatherer Isaiah Zagar. Or head southwest to Bartram’s Garden to lounge on the grounds of famed 18th-century botanist and explorer John Bartram’s estate and learn about trees that’ve been around as long as the city itself. Fairmount Park is the mack-daddy of all Philly green spaces, covering 9,200 acres; while you’re there, the one space you have to check out is the Whispering Benches on Concourse Drive. Stand on one side as a buddy stands on the other and marvel at the science of sound as your faintest murmurs carry farther than seems possible.

This is Philadelphia after all, so you’re obligated to squeeze in a little history. Go say “What’s up?” to our boy Benjamin Franklin at Christ Church. He’s called the Old City grounds his home since his death in 1790. Then hit up the Edgar Allan Poe National Historic Site to learn fun facts


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words by Carolyn Huckabay photo by Neal Santos

THE BASICS

tripping

TANK UP

IT’S ALL YOU’LL NEED TO GET OUT OF TOWN EVERY SEASON OF THE YEAR. Even with Philly’s out-of-this-world cuisine, vibrant arts scene and dozens of magically uncrowded green spaces, sometimes you just need to get the hell outta Dodge. Maybe your idea of a good time is swimming with the jellyfish in the sweltering heat; perhaps you prefer cozying up to a cabin fire in the dead of December. Get away as often as you need to — but promise us you’ll always come back. Absence makes the heart grow fonder and all. Winter: Philadelphia’s cold months can be SADinducingly dreary, what with snow that renders SEPTA useless and wind that leaves your lips chapped for months on end. The solution: Make the two-hour trek to the Pocono Mountains. Quaint tourist haven Jim Thorpe ( jimthorpe. org), named for the athletic legend who, as of press time, is buried there, is stocked with pictureperfect scenery, quirky tours and wholesome festivals (including Olde Time Christmas and WinterFest), while hamlets like Stroudsburg and Delaware Water Gap are more rustic. If you visit

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the latter, the Deer Head Inn (deerheadinn.com) is tops for live jazz (and, oddly, the former home of Keith Jarrett). Spring: Rejoice in the chirping of birds and unchaining of long-neglected bikes by taking your two wheels along for the ride. Drive out to the sprawling, 3,500-acre Valley Forge National Park (valleyforge.org), soak in some history (did you know that this was the site of one of the most racially diverse armies until the Vietnam War? Us neither) and bike around the park till your legs give out. En route home, take a load off at the Keswick Theatre (keswicktheatre.com), where everyone from Cyndi Lauper to B.B. King’s graced the stage. Summer: There’s no better time to make a sharp left and head out to Pennsylvania Dutch Country (padutchcountry.com), a mere 70 miles west of the city but a million mental miles away. Embrace Lancaster’s tech-free attitude and visit old-school farm stand Central Market, take a

buggy ride or go quilt shopping. In late June, the Kutztown Folk Festival (kutztownfestival.com) celebrates local lore and early American arts and crafts. Don’t leave without trying whoopie pie. Fall: If Jersey Shore’s made you apprehensive about the Jersey Shore, wait till after Labor Day and avoid the worst of the crowds (aka Snooki). From casino-heavy Atlantic City (pictured, atlanticcitynj.com) to rustic-preppy Cape May (capemay.com), this chunk of the Eastern seaboard is one you shouldn’t miss. Some parting pointers: One, they’re not called “the New Jersey beaches,” they’re called “The Shore.” Two, when you go there, you’re not heading “to the beach,” you’re going “downa shore.” Three, they ain’t free (shore beaches charge roughly $3-$5 a day for maintenance). Oh, and one more thing: Shore day-trippers are referred to by us locals as Shoobies. You’ve been warned.


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CITY OF NEIGHBORLY LOVE

MOUNT AIRY /CHESTNUT HILL /GERMANTOWN OAK LANE /OLNEY

Yeah, yeah, the “Philadelphia is a city of neighborhoods” claim is a bit of a cliché; after all, aren’t all major metropolises made up of tinier parts? But in Philly, it’s true. Partially because the city itself was, once upon a time, cobbled together from a collection of self-governing municipalities. Which could be why many retain distinct flavors. When you step back, zoom out and take Philly for all that it is — bike-friendly, boutique-heavy, foodie-centric, diverse and much greener than you might think — you start to realize that this particular cliché is one to be proud of.

NORTHEAST PHILLY

ROXBOROUGH MANAYUNK EAST FALLS NORTH PHILLY WEST PHILLY

CENTER CITY

The following pages contain a selective listing of things to do and places to be. Is there more to discover? Absolutely. But we can only hold your hand for so long.

SOUTH PHILLY

SOUTHWEST PHILLY

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photo by Neal Santos

THE HOODS

Eulogy Belgian Tavern 136 Chestnut St., 215-413-1918, eulogybar.com

Skeletons always look like they’re smiling, and at Eulogy, you get the feeling it’s because they’re actually enjoying themselves.

OLD CITY/WASHINGTON SQUARE WEST NO INTOXICATION WITHOUT REPRESENTATION.

The Khyber 56 S. Second St., 215-238-5888, thekhyber.com

This storied music venue/craft beer haven’s being reinvented as a Japanese izakaya. Las Vegas Lounge 704 Chestnut St., 215-592-9533, lasvegaslounge.com

Old City — a curious intersection of art, culture and sloppy weekend drunkenness — occupies the densely commercial riverside streets between Chestnut and Vine, Front and Fifth, making it perfect for gallery- and bar-hopping. It’s also where you’ll find most of the city’s biggest tourist draws, from the Liberty Bell to the Betsy Ross House — and with tourist draws come tourists, so watch out for slow-moving horse-and-buggies and swarms of neon-T-shirt-clad 12-year-olds. From the heart of Wash West, its namesake park at Sixth and Walnut, the neighborhood fans out from Lombard to Chestnut and extends westward to 10th Street; expect a bit more greenery, fewer businesses and plenty of folks walking around, zombie-like, in scrubs — it’s the home of Jefferson Hospital, after all. WHILE YOU’RE HERE … • Order a dry-pot-style entrée at Han Dynasty and prepare to cry it out • See how many galleries you can visit/drinks you can snag in one hour during First Friday • Spend an hour or five browsing vinyl at AKA Records

• Rinse out your own tiny beer glass at Beneluxx Tasting Room • Take the rugrats out for a game of historical mini-golf at Franklin Square YOU SHOULD KNOW … Transportation-wise, the Market-Frankford El has stops at Eighth (which is also a PATCO stop), Fifth and Second streets, and the 17, 21, 33, 38 48, 12 and 40 buses run here. Leave your car at home — street parking is hard to come by and Philadelphia Parking Authority ticketers are pitiless. Councilman Frank DiCicco (215-6863458) runs the First District. EXPLORE … BARS + CLUBS 32 Degrees

Vegas is long and narrow like a railway car; its deep-red walls are plastered front to back with framed portraits of American greats. Mac’s Tavern 226 Market St., 267-324-5507, macsphilly.com

For the record, this bar — owned by married It’s Always Sunny in Philadelphia stars Rob McElhenney and Kaitlin Olson — does not serve milk steak with a side of jelly beans. National Mechanics 22 S. Third St., 215-701-4883, nationalmechanics.com

Maintains a buzzy mystique thanks to lush decor and a rich wooden bar that serves 32 beer varieties. Race Street Café 208 Race St., 215-627-6181

Expect regular DJ nights, swanky cocktails and celebrity spottings of the Phillies-player variety.

This gastropubby oasis has a beer-snob-friendly tap selection and upper-middle-class sandwiches and entrées.

Beneluxx Tasting Room

Sugar Mom’s

33 S. Third St., 267-318-7269, beneluxx.com

225 Church St., 215-925-8219, myspace.com/sugarmoms

Each table is outfitted with a tiny glass-rinser. It comes in handy, as this is a place where virtually everything is available by the taste.

Drink prices here are a practice in fairness, as is the dirt-cheap bar menu.

16 S. Second St., 215-627-3132, 32lounge.com

WWW.CITYPAPER.NET

35


THE HOODS: OLD CITY/WASHINGTON SQUARE WEST Triumph Brewing Co.

Cuba Libre

Kanella

117-121 Chestnut St., 215-625-0855, triumphbrewing.com

10 S. Second St., 215-627-0666, cubalibrerestaurant.com

266 S. 10th St., 215-922-1773, kanellarestaurant.com

Triumph’s beers — from Helles Lager to the Amber Ale — are quaffable crowd-pleasers.

Cuba Libre offers authentic contemporary Cuban cuisine in a luscious movie set-style re-creation of Old Havana.

The Cypriot menu is based around gimmick-free simplicity — chef/owner Konstantinos Pitsillides works with organic free-range meats, from quail and rabbit to baby lamb and goat; he also offers locally sourced fish daily.

Varga Bar 941 Spruce St., 215-627-5200, vargabar.com

A neighborhood pub with all-American food and drink; look up to see a mural homage to Alberto Vargas, who popularized pinup girls in the early 20th century. RESTAURANTS + MARKETS Amada

Farmicia 15 S. Third St., 215-627-6274, farmiciarestaurant.com

In its concern for the well-being of its patrons, Farmicia serves portions that would appease most nutritionists at prices that would not offend workaday diners. Fork

217 Chestnut St., 215-625-2450, amadarestaurant.com

306 Market St., 215-625-9425, forkrestaurant.com

Iron Chef Jose Garces’ knockout Amada does tapas with a touch of style, combining traditional dishes with innovative techniques.

Terence Feury is upholding Fork’s pioneering farm-to-table mentality, adding an artisanal edge to the menu with hand-crafted pasta, bread, charcuterie and smoked fish.

Chifa 707 Chestnut St., 215-925-5555, chifarestaurant.com

Jose Garces celebrates the one-of-a-kind amalgam of Peruvian and Cantonese cooking at this popular Chestnut Street hot spot. The Continental 138 Market St., 215-923-6069, continentalmartinibar.com

The original star in the Stephen Starr empire, the Continental continuously sets the standard in Philadelphia for consistent global cuisine and creative (albeit pricey) cocktails.

Franklin Fountain 116 Market St., 215-627-1899, franklinfountain.com

The Franklin Fountain is a throwback corner ice cream saloon in Old City. Unique flavors include a bubblegum-like Tutti-Frutti and a brown sugarinfused Ginger.

Maru Global Takoyaki 255 S. 10th St., 267-273-0567, maruphilly.com

Ryo and Nicole Igarashi’s modest, mostly takeout restaurant specializes in takoyaki, the snacky little dough balls ubiquitous on the streets of Ryo’s hometown of Tokyo. Morimoto 723 Chestnut St., 215-413-9070, morimotorestaurant.com

This is what happens when famed (Iron) chef Masaharu Morimoto collaborates with famed restaurant mogul Stephen Starr. Old City Coffee 221 Church St., 215-629-9292

This is information central for Old City denizens who linger and schmooze on the outdoor tables along Church Street.

Han Dynasty

Union Trust

108 Chestnut St., 215-922-1888, handynasty.net

717 Chestnut St., 215-925-6000, uniontruststeakhouse.com

Han Dynasty serves Sichuan food and considers proper spicing (read: all the way up to napalm level) its raison d’être.

The endlessly swank Union Trust (in the original location of Union Trust Integrity Bank) caters to the caviar and champagne crowd with a number of extravagant dishes.

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Locks Gallery

Walnut Street Theatre

237 St. James Place, 215-625-8800, zahavrestaurant.com

600 Washington Sq., 215-629-1000, locksgallery.com

825 Walnut St., 215-574-3550, walnutstreettheatre.org

National Constitution Center

The oldest theater in the country celebrates its 201st birthday this year.

The Arden offers a little bit of everything â&#x20AC;&#x201D; from well-known musicals to many Philadelphia and world premières. AxD Gallery 265 S. 10th St., 215-627-6250, a-x-d.com/gallery

Betsy Ross House 239 Arch St., 215-686-1252, betsyrosshouse.org

Chemical Heritage Foundation 315 Chestnut St., 215-925-2222, chemheritage.org

The Clay Studio 139 N. Second St., 215-925-3453, theclaystudio.org

Elfrethâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Alley 126 Elfrethâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Alley, 215-574-0560, elfrethsalley.org

27 N. Second St., 215-922-3855

New and used CDs and vinyl, plus hard-to-ďŹ nd items and friendly, knowledgeable staff.

44 S. Second St., 215-627-6271, oldecitytattoo.com

Art in the Age

Painted Bride Art Center

116 N. Third St., 215-922-2600, artintheage.com

230 Vine St., 215-925-9914, paintedbride.org

With its tiled mosaic exterior, the 250-seat theater is all about art, inside and out. The Bride hosts theater, dance, music, poetry and art shows. Ritz East 125 S. Second St., 215-925-7900, landmarktheatres.com

One of three neighborhood cinemas in the â&#x20AC;&#x2122;hood showing strictly indie fare. St. Stephenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Theatre 923 Ludlow St., 215-829-9002, lanterntheater.org

This venue houses the Lantern Theater Co., which has been nominated for dozens of Barrymore awards during its 13-year residence in Philadelphia.

Artist-made T-shirts, playful dresses and Old World-inspired bags abound at this old-school boutique/gallery space. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s even got its own brands of liquor â&#x20AC;&#x201D; the root beer-inspired ROOT and the new, gingery SNAP. Book Trader 7 N. Second St., 215-925-0517

A cozy used-books hub worth spending an afternoon or a lifetime wandering through. Brave New Worlds 45 N. Second St., 215-925-6525, bravenewworldscomics.com

This comics shop doubles as a gallery showcasing local graphic artists.

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ARTS + CULTURE Arden Theatre Co.

Opening this fall, the new addition to Independence Mall celebrates the history and inďŹ&#x201A;uence of Jews in America.

201 N. Third St., 215-923-7030, wexlergallery.com

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Situated above Serrano restaurant, this cozy Old City hideaway is home to mellow rock acts.

55 N. Fifth St., 215-923-3811, nmajh.org

Wexler Gallery

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20 S. Second St., 215-928-0978, tinangel.com

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525 Arch St., 215-409-6600, constitutioncenter.org

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THE HOODS: OLD CITY/WASHINGTON SQUARE WEST Grasshopper 727 Walnut St., 215-925-3959, grasshopperproject.com

In addition to having the city’s most hooked-up dressing room, Grasshopper stocks super stylish, West Coast-ish clothing and accessories for men and women. Lost + Found 133 N. Third St., 215-928-1311

This Old City nook features new and vintage clothing, accessories, shoes and jewelry for men and women. Matthew Izzo 151 N. Third St., 215-829-0606, matthewizzo.com

Dear Philly boys: Visit Mr. Izzo and let him dress you. Let him design your apartment, too. Sazz Vintage 38 N. Third St., 215-923-SAZZ, sazzvintage.com

Except for one “girlfriend rack,” Philly native Amanda Saslow’s vintage boutique is entirely devoted to guys who can rock a powder-blue tux. Smak Parlour 219 Market St., 215-625-4551, smakparlour.com

Philly’s pinkest building features handmade pieces by equally sparkly owners Abby Kessler and Katie Loftus. Sugarcube 124 N. Third St., 215-238-0825, sugarcube.us The reigning Old City pretty girl with all the cool, expensive clothes, Sugarcube will satisfy your SoHo shopping craving and then some. Topstitch Boutique 54 N. Third St., 215-238-8877, topstitchboutique.com

The recently relocated Topstitch rocks the same vintage and handmade clothing, accessories and shoes for men, women and little ones that we’ve always loved it for. PARKS + REC Franklin Square 200 N. Sixth St., historicphiladelphia.org

Independence National Historical Park Sixth and Market streets, 800-537-7676, independencevisitorcenter.com

Ironworks Fitness Club 141 N. Third St., 215-627-7002, phillyironworks.com

Washington Square Park 210 W. Washington Square, 215-592-7787


photo by Neal Santos

THE HOODS

Doobie’s 2201 Lombard St., 215-546-0316

RITTENHOUSE/CENTER CITY WEST WHERE IT’S HIP TO BE SQUARE. One of the most well-known parks in Philadelphia occupies one city block and is constantly abuzz with activity, every season of the year: Rittenhouse Square is a place for bike messengers to take breaks; for kids to climb on statues and run around in drained fountains; for Christmas lights to be strung atop huge, portable evergreens; and for serious people-watching by all types. Center City West — with Rittenhouse at its center — encompasses everything from Broad Street to the hard-to-pronounce Schuylkill (say it: SKOO-kul) River, Lombard Street to Market. Head south and you’ll hit Graduate Hospital; head north and you’ll be in Fairmount. But if you’re here, you’re in the hustle-bustle heart of the city. Just remember to bring your wallet and leave your flip-flops at home — you’re not in Fishtown anymore WHILE YOU’RE HERE … • Say yes when the friendly Di Bruno Bros. cheesemongers ask if you’d like a free sample • Start with liquor (a Clover Club at Franklin Mortgage and Investment Co.) and finish with beer (Nodding Head’s Monkey Knife Fight) — you’re in the clear

A cozy, cheap neighborhood tavern, Doobie’s offers a late-night respite with dark wine-colored walls and a brightly lit bar. Good Dog 224 S. 15th St., 215-985-9600, gooddogbar.com

• Have a religious experience, but not that kind — take in a rock show at the First Unitarian Church • Park at Parc on a weekend morning for fresh pastries and a cappuccino • Pick your favorite medical oddity at the Mütter Museum YOU SHOULD KNOW … Meters abound, the Parking Authority is out to get you, garage fees will make you cry — so it’s best to hoof it. Otherwise, SEPTA bus routes 9, 21 and 42 run east on Chestnut Street, west on Walnut; the subway races beneath Market Street; and PATCO will take you to Jersey via its 16th-and-Locust stop. If you live in the Second District, Anna Verna is your City Councilwoman (215-686-3412). EXPLORE … BARS + CLUBS The Bards 2013 Walnut St., 215-569-9585, bardsirishbar.com

With rustic dishes and décor, The Bards feels like an Irish pub you might find in, y’know, Ireland.

Some of the best bar food in town, and the beer ain’t bad, either. The Irish Pub 2007 Walnut St., 215-568-5603, irishpubphilly.com

This popular pub’s Rittenhouse outpost is rowdy yet laid-back. Ladder 15 1528 Sansom St., 215-964-9755, ladder15philly.com

Decked out in dark wood and industrial steel, Ladder 15’s den-like space features a fireplace, cozy booths and a 30-seat bar. Misconduct Tavern 1511 Locust St., 215-732-5797, misconduct-tavern.com

A solid craft beer selection and TVs galore characterize this maritime-themed bar, a slightly quieter respite from the packed pubs of Center City. Sit outside if you want to snicker at the shitshow passers-by. Monk’s Café 264 S. 16th St., 215-545-7005, monkscafe.com

A dark, crowded Belgian joint that offers a staggering selection of international beers. And don’t miss their award-winning fries and bourbon mayonnaise. WWW.CITYPAPER.NET

39


THE HOODS: RITTENHOUSE/CENTER CITY WEST Nodding Head

Good Karma Cafe

1516 Sansom St., 2nd Fl., 215-569-9525, noddinghead.com

331 S. 22nd St., 215-546-1479, thegoodkarmacafe.com

A laid-back feel encourages the hordes to sidle up to the bar for a glass of house-brewed hooch.

All coffees and teas are fair-trade and organic; eats options include breakfast prerequisites like bagels and pastries as well as locally produced soups, salads and sandwiches.

The Raven Lounge 1718 Sansom St., 215-840-3577, ravenlounge.com

The name is an homage to Edgar Allan Poe; the velvet dĂŠcor reďŹ&#x201A;ects the poetâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s somber inclinations without getting too oh-my-goth macabre. Stir 1705 Chancellor St., 215-732-2700, stirphilly.com

Stir is a sleek, multibar gay lounge hidden on Chancellor Street, just off Rittenhouse Square. RESTAURANTS + MARKETS 10 Arts The Ritz-Carlton, 10 S. Broad St., 215-523-8221, 10arts.com

Jennifer Carroll, a Philly native and former sous chef at Eric Ripertâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Le Bernardin, designed 10 Artsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; menus around goodies from local purveyors. Audrey Claire 276 S. 20th St., 215-731-1222, audreyclaire.com

â&#x20AC;&#x153;Freshâ&#x20AC;? is a key word here; the ingredients seem remarkably unpolluted and undiluted. Butcher & Singer 1500 Walnut St., 215-732-4444, butcherandsinger.com

A Mad Men aesthetic creates a toasty backdrop for chef Anthony Goodwinâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s manly meat menu, centered around cuts like Delmonicos, dry-aged porterhouses, pork chops and more.

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the oldest modern sport â&#x20AC;˘ an original olympic sport â&#x20AC;˘ the sport for all ages â&#x20AC;˘ your sport.

Cichetteria 19 267 S. 19th St., 215-545-0441, cichetteria19.com

The concept of a cichetteria is native to Venice â&#x20AC;&#x201D; itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s basically a Venetian answer to a Spanish tapas bar, with small plates (cicheti) galore priced to encourage sampling.

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The Kibitz Room 1521 Locust St., 215-735-7305, thekibitzroom.com

Billing itself as a New York delicatessen â&#x20AC;&#x153;where size does matter,â&#x20AC;? this Cherry Hill import is a temple to conspicuous engorgement. La Colombe 130 S. 19th St., 215-563-0860, lacolombe.com

Euro-bohemia meets Rittenhouse chic for the richest java in town. Mama Palmaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s 2229 Spruce St., 215-735-7357

This corner sit-down might be the most aesthetically pleasing pizzeria in Center City; theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re all about wood-ďŹ red toasty tastes and gourmet ingredients. Melograno 2012 Sansom St., 215-875-8116

Melograno stands out among the crop of Phillyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Italian BYOs for its quality and consistency. MĂŠmĂŠ 2201 Spruce St., 215-735-4900, memerestaurant.com

Chef/owner David Katzâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s cuisine is often characterized as â&#x20AC;&#x153;rustic,â&#x20AC;? making classic ďŹ&#x201A;avors taste even better than you remember. Noble: An American Cookery 2025 Sansom St., 215-568-7000, noblecookery.com

In the second rendition of their assembly-line burrito palace, El Fuego has thrown caution to the wind and stocked the place with a full bar.

Nobleâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s polished interior, with earthy touches like a bar carved from a single slab of babinga wood, is the ideal backdrop for the reďŹ ned seasonal approach of chef Brinn Sinnott, who relies on produce grown on a rooftop garden above his kitchen.

2013 Chestnut St., 215-563-3330, elreyrestaurant.com

El Reyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s walls are ďŹ lled with trippy Mexican prison art and various kitsch-tastic ďŹ&#x201A;ea-market ďŹ nds; in the back of the restaurant sits the Ranstead Room, a covert cocktail bar that opens at 7 p.m. nightly. Erawan What pushes this cuisine over the edge is the presence of crispy rice in entrĂŠes, which gives a texture that may send your mind away to the Laotian side of the Mekong River. Fish

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A burrito bar for the fancy-beer-swilling crowd â&#x20AC;&#x201D; or for anyone who wants to watch a game without being surrounded by hoarse-voiced Iggles fans.

2104 Chestnut St., 215-751-1435, elfuegoburritos.com

123 S. 23rd St., 215-567-2542, erawanphilly.com

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263 S. 15th St., 215-545-4101, josepistolas.com

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Jose Pistolaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s

1708 Lombard St., 215-545-9600, ďŹ shphilly.com

Chef Mike Stollenwerk has a talent for imbuing simpler preparations with enough complexity to engage your attention without fragmenting it.

Oyster House 1516 Sansom St., 215-567-7683, oysterhousephilly.com

Our fair city went a while without a proper ďŹ sh house. Enter third-generation restaurant man Sam Mink, whoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s revived the family business with a smart renovation and a strong kitchen. Parc 227 S. 18th St., 215-545-2262, parc-restaurant.com

Watching the sun strike the open windows of Stephen Starrâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Parc is one of those beyondelegant moments that make you glad you live in Philly. Pub & Kitchen 1946 Lombard St., 215-545-0350, thepubandkitchen.com

Three-dollar bar snacks â&#x20AC;&#x201D; olives, hard-boiled eggs, pickled white ďŹ sh roll mops â&#x20AC;&#x201D; are simple accompaniments to the well-chosen beer and wine selections.


Tinto 114 S. 20th St., 215-665-9150, tintorestaurant.com

Jose Garces’ Tinto follows a culinary model straight out of San Sebastian, and it’s as close to the real deal as this city will ever get. Village Whiskey 118 S. 20th St., 215-665-1088, villagewhiskey.com

With Village Whiskey, Jose Garces leaves the Spanish-speaking world behind for an amalgam of Swing Era ambience and Southern comfort food — plus one of the best damn burgers in the city. Zama 128 S. 19th St., 215-568-1027, zamarestaurant.com

Hiroyuki “Zama” Tanaka applies an artist’s eye to a menu that features sushi, maki and sashimi selections as well as steamed and pan-seared fish dishes and meat entrées. MUSIC Chris’ Jazz Café 1421 Sansom St., 215-568-3131, chrisjazzcafe.com

Catch local and big-name acts almost every night of week at this venue and restaurant. The Curtis Institute of Music 1726 Locust St., 215-893-7902, curtis.edu

Catch solo, chamber and orchestra performances by students at the longtime music conservatory that has such famed alumni as Leonard Bernstein. First Unitarian Church 2125 Chestnut St., 866-468-7619, r5productions.com

Local DIY production team R5 transforms the church’s basement into a sweaty all-ages haven for indie acts. Upstairs Chapel concerts are more intimate. ARTS + CULTURE Academy of Music 1420 Locust St., 215-893-1935, academyofmusic.org

Hosts the Pennsylvania Ballet, the Opera Company of Philadelphia and the Kimmel Center’s Broadway series. The Adrienne Theatre 2030 Sansom St., 215-568-8079

The 103-seat main stage houses InterAct Theatre Co., ComedySportz, Flashpoint Theatre Co. and many more. Center for Emerging Visual Artists 1521 Locust St., lower level, 215-546-7775, cfeva.org

The Forrest Theater 1114 Walnut St., 800-447-7400, forrest-theatre.com

Built in 1927 by the Shubert Organization, the Forrest presents well-known Broadway plays and musicals. Gallery 339 339 S. 21st St., 215-731-1530, gallery339.com

Helium Comedy Club 2031 Sansom St., 215-496-9001, heliumcomedy.com

Standup from well-known funny people, like Mark Curry (Hangin’ with Mr. Cooper) and Brian Posehn (The Sarah Silverman Program).


THE HOODS: RITTENHOUSE/CENTER CITY WEST Kimmel Center for the Performing Arts

Rosenbach Museum & Library

300 S. Broad St., 215-893-1999, kimmelcenter.org

2008 Delancey Place, 215-732-1600, rosenbach.org

The 2,500-seat theater is the queen bee on Broad Street and hosts shows from Philadanco, the Philadelphia Orchestra and many more, plus national and international headliners.

Houses rare books and manuscripts, plus an extensive Maurice Sendak collection.

This out-of-control-delicious Center City boutique houses duds from Opening Ceremony, Elizabeth and James, Sigerson Morrison and many more.

Roxy Theatre

Omoi

2023 Sansom St., 215-923-6699

1608 Pine St., 215-545-0963, omoionline.com

The Merriam

An old-timey movie theater in the heart of Center City. Expect cheaper prices, smaller seats and a more authentic experience than any chain can give you.

A bit off the beaten shopping path, Omoi specializes in Japanese pop culture-inspired clothing and accessories.

Sande Webster Gallery

1700 Sansom St., 215-587-0004, savafashion.com

250 S. Broad St., 215-732-5446

Formerly the Shubert, the Merriam is now owned by the University of the Arts and is the place to go for Broadway Roadhouse. The theater, which dates back to 1918, is also home to the Pennsylvania Ballet. Mütter Museum of the College of Physicians 19 S. 22nd St., 215-563-3737, collphyphil.org

Medical anomalies abound, from old-school surgical instruments to a chart of different eye diseases. Philadelphia Art Alliance 251 S. 18th St., 215-545-4302, philartalliance.org

Plays & Players Theater 1714 Delancey Place, 215-735-0630, playsandplayers.org

Built in 1912, this is one of the oldest non-professional theaters still in use in the U.S. Expect fun, slightly off-kilter plays like William Shakespeare’s Land of the Dead, which debuted in 2008. The Print Center 1614 Latimer St., 215-735-6090, printcenter.org

2006 Walnut St., 215-636-9003, sandewebstergallery.com

Suzanne Roberts Theatre 480 S. Broad St., 215-985-0420, philadephiatheatrecompany.org

Home of the Philadelphia Theatre Co., this 365seat traditional proscenium theater opened in 2007.

SA VA Focusing on sustainable “ethiquette,” Sarah Van Aken’s shop won Philadelphia magazine’s “Best New Boutique” award in 2010. Square Peg Artery 108 S. 20th St., 215-360-5548, squarepegartery.com

Consignment shop filled with hidden treasures, from reclaimed art to quirky accessories. UBIQ

SHOPPING Buffalo Exchange

1509 Walnut St., 215-988-0194, ubiqlife.com

1713 Chestnut St., 215-557-9850, buffaloexchange.com

Bring your gently used duds in for cash, or buy someone else’s on the cheap.

Sneaks are the thing at this hip Walnut Street footwear mecca.

Eviama Life Spa

PARKS + REC 23rd Street Armory

262 S. 16th St., 215-545-3344, eviama.com

22 S. 23rd St., 215-564-1488, firsttroop.com

A holistic spa that offers everything from Reiki and color therapy to facials and kids’ yoga.

Schuylkill Banks

Joan Shepp 1616 Walnut St., 215-735-2666, joanshepp.com

25th and Locust streets, 215-222-6030, schuylkillbanks.org

Rittenhouse Square Fitness Club 2002 Rittenhouse Square, 215-985-4095, ritfit.com

Philadelphia’s Most

Award Winning Brewery

Best Brew Pub 2010

Philly Beer Scene Magazine

World Beer Cup 2010 Silver Medal Ich Bin Ein Berliner Weisse 2006 Bronze Medal BPA

KICK A FO SS By Ch OD

OPEN EVERY DAY FROM 11:30 AM – 2:00 AM

with 15 medals and counting Hand-crafted by Gordon Grubb

Great American Beer Fest 2009 Silver Medal George’s Fault 2009 Bronze Medal Phruit Phunk 2008 Silver Medal Saison Happy Hour Monday – Friday 5 – 7pm $4 craft pints, $4 cocktails, $4 glasses of wine, $4 appetizers

KITCHEN OPEN UNTIL 1:30 AM EVERY NIGHT

12 ROTATING BEER TAPS THAT ALWAYS FEATURE SEASONAL & LOCAL SELECTIONS 50 BEERS BY THE BOTTLE UNIQUELY SEASONAL HOUSE COCKTAILS BEER GEEK THURSDAYS FEATURING $3 PINTS

Beer dinners every Wednesday!

10 HD FLAT SCREEN TELEVISIONS INSIDE PLUS ONE MORE OUTSIDE

Midnigef Drew ‘til ht N (1:30 ightly Fri & SAM at)

NFL SUNDAY TICKET

Nodding Head Brewery and Restaurant 1516 Sansom Street • Philly

215.569.9525 • www.noddinghead.com

1511 LOCUST STREET

WWW.MISCONDUCT-TAVERN.COM

215.732.5797


photos by Neal Santos

THE HOODS

Knock 225 S. 12th St., 215-925-1166, knockphilly.com

Knock is aiming for the vibe of a gay steakhouse, exuding a sort of ski-lodge coziness with wooden wall paneling and oversized fireplaces.

GAYBORHOOD/MIDTOWN VILLAGE LITTLE PINK TRIANGLES FOR YOU AND ME.

Q Bar + Lounge 1234 Locust St., 215-732-1800, qphilly.com

Best known for its martini happy hour from 5 to 7, Q also offers such specialty martinis as the Chocolate Cake, Tropical Life Saver, Metrosexual and Fashionista.

Bordered by Washington Square and the Avenue of the Arts (aka Broad Street) in the heart of Center City, the Gayborhood is a diverse mecca of bars, nightclubs, restaurants and shops catering to LGBTQ clientele. Thanks to business owners like Marcie Turney and Valerie Safran and their growing empire of restaurants and boutiques, the neighborhood’s pulse is ever-quickening; thanks to old-school establishments like Woody’s, it still feels like home.

YOU SHOULD KNOW … Catch a subway along Market Street or a bus on Walnut (routes 21 and 42); if you’re driving, there are several parking lots throughout the area. If you’re Jersey-bound, hop on PATCO at 12th and Locust. To find out more about what’s happening in the Gayborhood, check out the Midtown Village Association (midtownvillage.org); for political concerns, contact First District City Councilman Frank DiCicco (215-686-3458).

Sisters

WHILE YOU’RE HERE … • Sip a Booty Collins at APO (formerly known as Apothecary) • Go Mother’s Day (or any-day) shopping at Verde • Snag an outdoor table at Knock for primo people-watching • Dance the night away at Voyeur • Mark your calendars for Outfest, Equality Forum and Philly Pride

EXPLORE … BARS + CLUBS 12th Air Command

Time

254 S. 12th St., 215-545-8088, 12thair.com.

With three stories, four separate bars, a dancefloor, karaoke, kinky contests and drag shows, 12th Air Command offers multiple opportunities for latenight entertainment. APO Bar + Lounge 102 S. 13th St., 215-735-7500, apothecarylounge.com

A “bespoke cocktail lab” — a sleek drinker’s playland where bartenders pour one-of-a-kind drinks.

1320 Chancellor St., 215-735-0735, sistersnightclub.com

Karaoke, live music, theme parties and movie screenings keep this LGBTQ bar busy seven days a week. Tavern On Camac 243 S. Camac St., 215-545-0900, tavernoncamac.com

Filled with dedicated regulars and friendly bartenders, TOC’s main floor is home to one of Philadelphia’s most popular piano bars. 1315 Sansom St., 215-985-4800, timerestaurant.net

The whiskey bar and the Bohemian Absinthe Lounge offer serious potables that should please all comers. Tria 1137 Spruce St., 215-629-9200, triacafe.com

Tria is a fermentables-focused bar specializing in thoughtful wine, beer and cheese selections. Voyeur Nightclub 1221 St James St., 215-735-5772, voyeurnightclub.com

This LGBTQ-friendly club hosts weekly events, drink specials and private parties. WWW.CITYPAPER.NET

43


THE HOODS: GAYBORHOOD/MIDTOWN VILLAGE

Woody’s Bar

Gianfranco Pizza Rustica

Mercato

202 S. 13th St., 215-545-1893, woodysbar.com

248 S. 11th St., 215-923-9134, gianfrancopa.com

1216 Spruce St., 215-985-2962, mercatobyob.com

One of the most popular gay clubs in Philly, but the name is recognizable to those of any sexual orientation.

The newest location of the well-loved, awardwinning pizzeria serves a variety of delicious thin-crust pizzas, stromboli, calzones, salads and a slew of hot sandwiches, steaks and wraps.

Few places capture the essence of Philly’s BYOB culture quite like Mercato, with its cozy atmosphere, casual vibe and open kitchen.

Garces Trading Company

1304 Walnut St., 215-546-9443, minarphilly.com

RESTAURANTS + MARKETS Amís 412 S. 13th St., 215-732-AMIS, amisphilly.com

1111 Locust St., 215-574-1099,

Marc Vetri’s third Philly restaurant is a casual paean to the neighborhood trattorie of Rome.

garcestradingcompany.com

Bindi 105 S. 13th St., 215-922-6061, bindibyob.com

Bindi takes non-traditional Indian flavors to new heights, especially with dessert. Effie’s 1127 Pine St., 215-592-8333, effiesrestaurant.com

In a pleasant, tavernlike atmosphere, Effie’s serves consistently fresh, pure country Greek food.

Jake’s Sandwich Board 122 S. 12th St., 215-922-0102, jakessandwichboard.com

The most visible draw is the whole roasted pig — sourced from the Italian Market and displayed for passers-by in the window — that they’re carving up for pork sandwiches daily. Last Drop 1300 Pine St., 215-893-9262, lastdropcoffeehouse.com

El Vez 121 S. 13th St., 215-928-9800, elvezrestaurant.com

Queso fundido is a guilty pleasure: lots of melted Oaxaca and Chihuahua cheese, mixed with salsa and spicy chorizo, designed to be mopped up with or rolled up in fluffy, light tortillas. The Foodery 324 S. 10th St., 215-928-1111, fooderybeer.com

When Philadelphians crave good beer, they crave this vast menu of imports and microbrews, available for takeout by the bottle or six-pack. 44

Garces Trading Company is the Iron Chef’s foray into the gourmet market game.

CITYPAPER PRIMER 2010 - 2011

One of the first coffeehouses to get Philly on the coffee kick, Last Drop is the quintessential slacker hangout. Lolita 106 S. 13th St., 215-546-7100, lolitabyob.com

You’ll leave with the impression that your meal was special and that a real person took the time to choose its contents and challenge your expectations. The BYOT(equila) margaritas are not to be missed.

Minar Palace After a two-year hiatus from Philadelphia’s restaurant scene, the wildly popular Indian restaurant has returned. Naked Chocolate Cafe 1317 Walnut St., 215-735-7310, nakedchocolatecafe.com

This dessert-exclusive cafe crafts a slew of sweets in-house, and also offers Euro-style hot chocolates and teas. Valanni 1229 Spruce St., 215-790-9494, valanni.com

Valanni features refined Medi-Latin cuisine; specialties include meat, seafood and vegetarian paellas and tapas like albondigas (lamb meatballs), grilled octopus and Serrano ham croquettes. Vetri 1312 Spruce St., 215-732-3478, vetriristorante.com

Marc Vetri’s eponymous restaurant is still one of the hottest tickets in town; people call ahead of time to taste his calamari torta.


Zavino

William Way Community Center

TrickGo

112 S. 13th St., 215-732-2400, zavino.com

1315 Spruce St., 215-732-2220, waygay.org

1135 Pine St., 215-238-1207, trickgo.com

At Zavinoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s polished, narrow space, check out pies like the polpettini (red sauce, provolone, mini veal meatballs) or the fratello (bĂŠchamel, broccoli, roasted garlic, Claudioâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s mozzarella).

Provides counseling and all-ages programming for the LGBTQ community.

College students run this unconventional boutique/gallery space where everything from T-shirts to art prints is for sale.

MUSIC Fergieâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Pub

The place to go for more offbeat, imaginative shows, the Wilma has a habit of getting audiences thinking and talking long after the curtain falls.

1214 Sansom St., 215-928-8118, fergies.com

Acoustic acts play this Center City bar routinely overrun by a younger crowd looking to avoid a cover charge. ARTS + CULTURE Gershman Y 401 S. Broad St., 215-545-4400, gershmany.org

This former YMHA hosts gallery exhibits, family programming and even the occasional basementswimming-pool dance performance. Giovanniâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Room 345 South 12th St., 215-923-2960, giovannisroom.com

The countryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s oldest LGBTQ bookstore hosts regular author talks and other events. Seraphin Gallery 1108 Pine St., 215-923-7000, seraphingallery.com

University of the Arts 211 S. Broad St., 215-563-1869, uarts.edu

The only university in Philly â&#x20AC;&#x201D; and the country â&#x20AC;&#x201D; whose sole focus is on visual, performing and communication arts.

The Wilma Theater 265 S. Broad St., 215-546-7824, wilmatheater.org

SHOPPING Doggie Style 114 S. 13th St., 215-545-4100, doggiestyle2.com

OutďŹ t your pup with the latest fashions. Kitchenette 1120 Walnut St., 215- 829-4949, shopkitchenette.com

Stock up on everything from stainless steel barware to frilly aprons and specialty foods.

Verde 108 S. 13th St., 215-546-8700, verdephiladelphia.com

Verde, from power couple Marcie Turney and Valerie Safran (Lolita, Grocery, Open House, Bindi), is a specialty shop dealing exclusively in ďŹ&#x201A;owers (and various high-end gardening supplies) and boutique-y chocolates and sweets. PARKS + REC 12th Street Gym 204 S. 12th St., 215-985-4092, 12streetgym.com

Louis I. Kahn Memorial Park 1119 Pine St., kahnpark.tripod.com

Paper on Pine 115 S. 13th St., 625-0100, paperonpine.com

This stationery empire may have moved from its original location, but â&#x20AC;&#x153;Paper on Pineâ&#x20AC;? has a much nicer ring to it than â&#x20AC;&#x153;Paper on South 13th,â&#x20AC;? donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t you think? Sailor Jerry 118 S. 13th St., 215-531-6380, sailorjerry.com

Pick up cheeky nautical-inspired wear at the ďŹ&#x201A;agship store, which frequently throws parties that rival its merch.

27A6TSSRaVc\U`g>VWZZgT]]RWSabVS"]\bVSZObSab RW\W\UT`W\YW\Ub`S\Ra`SabOc`O\b`SdWSeaT]]R\SeaO\R[]`S

7aacS2ObS( ;Og   @SaS`dObW]\2SORZW\S( /^`WZ!  B]ORdS`bWaSQ]\bOQbg]c`OQQ]c\b [O\OUS`]`QOZZ #%!#&"""


photos by Neal Santos

THE HOODS

Dark Horse Pub 421 S. Second St., 215-928-9307, darkhorsepub.com

This two-level bar celebrates England and Ireland via heavy stouts, shepherd’s pie and footy on the telly. Fluid

SOCIETY HILL/SOUTH STREET EAST

613 S. Fourth St., 215-629-0565, fluidnightclub.com

IT’S A FAMILY AFFAIR.

Ms. Tootsie’s

If Society Hill is the snooty, sweater-vest-clad, Ivy League-educated older brother, then South Street is his gum-snappin’, hoop-earring-wearing, backtalking little sister. She may be loud-mouthed, but he loves her anyway. He may be pretentious, but at least he buys her beer. What we’re trying to say is that South Street, all the way from Front to Broad, has a certain gritty charm — which might not even be noticeable if it didn’t directly abut such a starkly contrasting neighbor, Society Hill, whose name pretty much says it all. The area from Chestnut to Lombard, Front to Sixth is where some of the city’s wealthiest reside. But that doesn’t mean you can’t walk its streets and stare in awe at the architecture. WHILE YOU’RE HERE … • Order the brisket (moist — trust us) at Percy Street BBQ • Get lost inside Philadelphia Magic Gardens’ mosaic labyrinth • Convince yourself that a 2 a.m. falafel sandwich at Maoz is healthy drunk food • Support your local grower at the Headhouse

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CITYPAPER PRIMER 2010 - 2011

Hip-hop, new wave, reggae, punk rock, soul — you name it, this night club’s spinning it. 1312 South St., 215-985-9001, kevenparker.net

Farmers Market • Get to the TLA early enough to snag a balcony spot for a rock show

One house special at this converted row home is the Tootsie’s Roll, a chocolate martini with creme de cacao, Stoli Vanilla and a Tootsie Roll garnish served in a cocoa-rimmed glass.

YOU SHOULD KNOW … You’ve got your choice of buses, like the 9, 12, 21, 40, 42, 47 and 57. Parking is a pain close to South Street, so leave the car at home (especially on weekend nights). Frank DiCicco is the City Councilman repping the First District (215-6863458).

O’Neals

EXPLORE … BARS + CLUBS The Artful Dodger

Tattooed Mom

611 S. Third St., 215-574-9495, onealspub.com

Get out of the summertime South Street heat and make your way to a patio table in O’Neal’s quaint backyard. The pub also offers free WiFi access for fantasy football fans who like drinking and drafting. 530 South St., 215-238-9880

This small, friendly Headhouse Square bar specializes in consistent, affordable English pub fare and brown liquors.

The classic South Street dive and TLA show pregame destination, Tattooed Mom augments its weird-grandma’s-parlor décor with a friendly (and yes, largely be-tatted) staff, insanely cheap drink deals and weekly theme nights (Taco Tuesday!).

Copabanana

Woolly Mammoth

400 S. Second St., 215-922-1790

344 South St., 215-923-6180, copabanana.com

The original Copabanana is a South Street staple for its everlasting Mardi Gras atmosphere and award-winning food and drink.

430 South St., 215-923-8780

The sports bar features a polished interior, complete with plasma-screen TVs and billiard tables. Between the 15 beers on tap and the 70 or so bottled options, you’ll be well provided for.


COME ENJOY HEALTHY MEDITERRANEAN CUISINE FRESH, AUTHENTIC, MOUTHWATERING MEDITTERANEAN CUISINE WILL HAVE YOUR PALATE DANCING! GREEK SHRIMP TO MUSSELS LAMB CHOPS TO KABOBS MOUSAKA TO SPANAKOPITA HUMMUS TO STUFFED PEPPERS

SOUTH STREET SOUVLAKI 509 SOUTH STREET, PHILADELPHIA 215-925-3026


THE HOODS: SOCIETY HILL/SOUTH STREET EAST Gnocchi 613 E. Passyunk Ave., 215-592-8300

Gnocchi is a small, cute BYOB featuring housemade pasta served with simple, fresh ingredients. Headhouse Farmers Market Second and Lombard streets, thefoodtrust.org

Local food purveyors at this weekend market include Talula’s Table artisan foods, A.T. Buzby produce, John & Kira’s chocolate, Patches of Star cheese and many more. Horizons 611 S. Seventh St., 215-923-6117, horizonsphiladelphia.com

Horizons doesn’t mess around with its upscale take on vegan cuisine. Soy bonus points for stellar presentation and hearty sides. Ishkabibbles Eatery RESTAURANTS + MARKETS Alyan’s 603 S. Fourth St., 215-922-3553

Kibbeh, baba ganoush and hummus deck the house pita sandwiches, large enough to justify eating in under the back room’s skylight. Brauhaus Schmitz 718 South St., 267-909-8814, brauhausschmitz.com

This 20-tap Teutonic drinker’s haven is heavy on German beers (Jever, Reissdorf, Spaten, Paulaner, etc.) as well as the Hausbrau, a crisp lager brewed for the bar by Stoudt’s.

Bridget Foy’s 200 South St., 215-922-1813, bridgetfoys.com

You can eat outdoors at Bridget Foy’s and get your South Street pedestrian ambience undiluted if you like. Fez Moroccan Cuisine 620 S. Second St., 215-925-5367, fezrestaurant.com

Servers explain each course (eight in all), as well as the traditions, like the pre- and post-meal hand-washing.

Have You Found it Difficult to Try to Stop Your Sexual Behaviors? Help is Available, CALL 610.876.8448 Or visit our Website www.KeyStoneCenterECU.net

KEYSTONE CENTER Extended Care Unit for Sexual Compulsivity and Trauma

337 South St., 215-923-4337

Spanish fries or cheese fries? Many patrons of this decades-old cheesesteak institution have trouble deciding between the two. Jim’s Steaks 400 South St., 215-928-1911, jimssteaks.com

Tourists have waited in obscenely long lines for these steaks since 1976, and for good reason. Las Bugambilias 148 South St., 215-922-3190, lasbugambiliasphilly.com

Rather than focus exclusively on one region, the cooking at Las Bugambilias crisscrosses through Veracruz, Oaxacan and Yucatan cuisines.


Marrakesh 517 S. Leithgow St., 215-925-5929

For the love of God, don’t eat for at least five hours before dining at this multi-course Moroccan mainstay. Percy Street Barbecue 900 South St., 215-625-8510, percystreet.com

Aside from brisket, the star of Texas barbecue, Percy’s doing pork spare ribs and pork belly, chicken and a killer jalapeño/white cheddar sausage. Pizzeria Stella 215 Lombard St., 215-320-8000, pizzeriastella.net

Stella is Stephen Starr’s first foray into pizza, and though there’s a lot of flash here, the focus is on the food.

MUSIC The TLA 334 South St., 215-922-1011, livenation.com

Audiences cram into this South Street mainstay for close encounters with their favorite national or underground acts. ARTS + CULTURE Eyes Gallery 402 South St., 215-925-0193, eyesgallery.com

Get lost inside this South Street quirkerie, selling everything from masks and ceramics to textiles and furniture. Infinite Body Piercing 626 S. Fourth St., 215-923-7335, infinitebody.com

If you’ve got it, this long-running body-mod shop will put a ring, or a stud, or a barbell in it.

South Street Souvlaki

No Ka Oi Tiki Tattoo

509 South St., 215-925-3026

610 S. Fourth St., 215-925-1766, nokaoitikitattoo.com

Philadelphia’s oldest Greek establishment features award-winning gyros served alongside a tasty melange of veggies with yogurt sauce.

Get inked or pierced at this Hawaiian-themed tattoo parlor.

Xochitl

621 S. Fourth St., 215-829-9833,

Philadelphia Eddie’s Tattoo

408 S. Second St., 215-238-7280, xochitlphilly.com

philadelphiaeddiestattoo.com

Bartenders whip up inspired cocktails, and tequilas are available in tasting flights.

One of the most trusted names in Philly tattoos. Philadelphia’s Magic Gardens 1020 South St., 215-733-0390, phillymagicgardens.org

Isaiah Zagar’s ever-growing masterpiece is a wonderland of broken glass.

Let the feeding frenzy begin. Food news, recipes, menu exclusives

Society Hill Dance Academy 409 S. Second St., 215-574-3574, societyhilldance.com

Learn the fox trot or rent out the space for a private party. SHOPPING Bluebond Guitars 511 S. Fourth St., 215-829-1690, bluebondguitars.com

Right off South Street, this shop features repairs, gear, custom guitars and a music school. Repo Records 538 South St., 215-627-3775, reporecords.com

Open in this location since 1998, this shop specializes in new and used CDs and vinyl. Retrospect 536 South St., 267-671-0116, retrospectvintage.com

Carefully selected vintage clothing and accessories for men and women. Wooden Shoe Books 704 South St., 215-413-0999, woodenshoebooks.com

An “all-volunteer anarchist collective” that sells books and records and hosts regular readings and author events. PARKS + REC Old Pine Community Center 401 Lombard St., 215-627-2493

Starr Garden Rec Center Sixth and Lombard streets, 215-686-1782

Eat In- Take Out- Catering Open Seven Days A Week Middle Eastern Cuisine 603 So. 4th St. PHILA., PA 19147

215-922-3553 Fax

215-925-0710

rgaicr citypaper.net/mealticket

Since 1982 Grill Falafel Hoummos Cous Cous Shish Kabab’s Salad’s Shawarma Tabouli


photos by Neal Santos

THE HOODS

Shampoo 417 N. Eighth St., 215-922-7500, shampooonline.com

Expect foam parties, 18-and-up nights and plenty of bass at this popular night club. Yakitori Boy

CHINATOWN/LOFT DISTRICT GET YOUR STARCH UNDER THE ARCH. Chinatown is bound tightly by Eighth and 12th streets from Arch to Vine, but we’d be remiss to ignore the businesses that lie in the neighborhood’s outskirts. Loosely dubbed the Loft District and running from Sixth Street to Broad, Arch all the way up to Green, this ’hood is known for, well, its many loft-style condo buildings, but also a slowly growing enclave of excellent restaurants. Closer to those photo-op-worthy arches you’ll find a diverse amalgamation of tasty eats, edgy art and bargains galore in a largely immigrant community that thrives on authenticity. WHILE YOU’RE HERE … • Watch the noodle slinger work his magic at Nan Zhou Hand Drawn Noodle House • Get your Bon Jovi on in one of Yakitori Boy’s private karaoke rooms • Pick up kitchenware on the cheap at Shanghai Bazaar • Catch a Monday-night movie at the Troc • Experience the Chinatown Bus system, at least once

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CITYPAPER PRIMER 2010 - 2011

YOU SHOULD KNOW … The sometimes-clashing agendas of different residents are well-represented by the Chinatown Development Corp. (301 N. Ninth St., 215-9222156, chinatown-pcdc.org) and the Callowhill Neighborhood Association (callowhill.org). Getting here is easy via Regional Rail to Market East, the Market-Frankford El to 11th and the Broad Street Line to Race-Vine. Chinatown is represented in the First District of City Council by Frank DiCicco (215-686-3458). EXPLORE … BARS + CLUBS The Institute 549 N. 12th St., 267-972-5016, institutebar.com

213 N. 11th St., 215-923-8088, yakitoriboy-japas.com

Yakitori Boy considers itself a “Japas” — Japanese tapas — restaurant. The downstairs space features a full sushi bar, drinkin’ bar and yakitori bar; upstairs is the karaoke bar, with a huge booze list to fuel your inner rock star. RESTAURANTS + MARKETS Banana Leaf 1009 Arch St., 215-592-8288, phillybananaleaf.com

The huge dining room can service tons of people, and fast, with sweet and savory dishes emerging from the steam and clatter of the open stainless steel kitchen. The Roti Canai appetizer is not to be ignored. Café Lift 428 N. 13th St., 215-922-3031, cafelift.com

Café Lift’s weekend brunch options are long on the savory, with a special predilection for big, fluffy frittatas. This Loft District hideaway is worth the trek for a triple threat of tasty food, friendly service and unique atmosphere.

A comfortably sized bilevel bar serving up local and international brews.

Delilah’s Southern Cuisine

Prohibition Taproom

215-574-0929, readingterminalmarket.org

501 N. 13th St., 215-238-1818, theprohibitiontaproom.com

It’s said that this bar was run as an illegal speakeasy back in the day. Now it’s a friendly gastropub with tasty, reliable food and drink.

Reading Terminal Market, 12th and Arch streets,

Delilah Winder’s mac ’n’ cheese, made from scratch with Gruyere and asiago, was voted best in the country by Oprah Winfrey in 2003 and was featured in an episode of the Food Network’s Throwdown with Bobby Flay.


DiNic’s

Vietnam Restaurant

Pennsylvania Convention Center

Reading Terminal Market, 1136 Arch St., 215-923-6175

221 N. 11th St., 215-592-1163, eatatvietnam.com

1101 Arch St., 215-418-4700, paconvention.com

Prepare for DiNic’s line to be DiLong. Here, pigs actually do fly — stuff goes fast. It’s DiLicious.

Completely renovated into a tasteful evocation of old Saigon, Vietnam now has the proper background for its light, delicious cuisine.

Hosts the annual Philadelphia International Flower Show, whose theme for 2011 is “Springtime in Paris.”

MUSIC Starlight Ballroom

Space 1026

460 N. Ninth St., 866-468-7619, r5productions.com

Tiger Strikes Asteroid

Nan Zhou Hand Drawn Noodle House 927 Race St., 215-923-1550

We’d pay the $5.25 just to watch the guy in the back window whip and wrangle a fresh batch of this place’s namesake soup component. New Harmony Vegetarian Restaurant 135 N. Ninth St., 215-627-4520, myspace.com/newharmony

New Harmony is a meat avoider’s wonderland, where inspired mock dishes intermingle with more traditionally veggie-riffic options. Penang 117 N. 10th St., 215-414-2531, penangusa.com

This eatery boasts a menu full of surprises, with a number of dishes so meta-scary, the menu requests that you ask your server for advice before ordering. We suggest you heed this advice. Pho Cali 1000 Arch St., 215-629-1888

This Vietnamese eatery in Chinatown shows a total dedication to pho in action, although that’s not to say pho is the only thing worth ordering here. Reading Terminal Market 12th and Arch streets, 215-922-2317, readingterminalmarket.org

Featuring more than 80 stalls and shops, The Reading Terminal Market dates back to 1892 when the Reading Railroad commissioned a food bazaar. A century later, the market continues to exhibit old and new culinary delights.

Catch up-and-coming acts booked by R5 Productions, Punk Rock Flea Markets and more at this converted roller-skating rink. The Trocadero 1003 Arch St., 215-922-LIVE, thetroc.com

Local and national bands from all over come to this former burlesque house to show Philly what they’ve got. ARTS + CULTURE The African American Museum in Philadelphia 710 Arch St., 215-574-0380, aampmuseum.org

Art Underground at the Wolf Building 340 N. 12th St., 215-407-0556, gasandelectricarts.org

This huge converted warehouse hosts performing arts events throughout the year. Asian Arts Initiative 1219 Vine St., 215-557-0455, asianartsinitiative.org

Copy Gallery 319 N. 11th St. 3rd Floor, copygallery.org

1026 Arch St., 215-574-7630, space1026.com 319A N.11th St., 4th Floor

Vox Populi 319 N. 11th St., 3rd Floor, 215-238-1236, voxpopuligallery.org

SHOPPING Abakus Takeout 227 N. 10th St., 215-351-7978, abakustakeout.com

Don’t let the playful exterior fool you — this Chinatown streetwear boutique serves up limited-edition sneaks and designer denim, not Chinese food. AIA Bookstore & Design Center 1218 Arch St., 215-569-3188, aiabookstore.com

Run by the Philly chapter of the American Institute of Architects, this shop carries books, gifts and toys for the design-minded Philadelphian. Shanghai Bazaar 1016 Race St., 215-629-8398

Tchotchkes, housewares, clothing and pretty much anything else you can think of at crazycheap prices.

Fabric Workshop & Museum 1214 Arch St., 215-561-8888, fabricworkshop.org

Marginal Utility 319 N. 11th St., 917-355-4487, marginalutility.org

WWW.CITYPAPER.NET

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photos by Neal Santos

THE HOODS

L’Etage 624 S. Sixth St., 215-592-0656, creperie-beaumonde.com

Aside from those aforementioned StorySlams, the bar upstairs from Beau Monde Creperie contains this neighborhood’s best crammed, sweaty dancefloor.

BELLA VISTA/QUEEN VILLAGE THE NOT-SO-DIRTY SOUTH. Travel a mere block south of the pedestrianmobbed South Street and find your serenity: This pair of neighborhoods is much more residential, much less traffic-jammed yet still full of personality. Taking up the space south of South and north of Washington, Queen Village (from Front to Sixth) and Bella Vista (from Sixth to 10th) tell the story of how opposites attract: Condos have sprouted between old-school rowhomes; hipster pubs sidle up next to dive bars; pho, fajitas, escarole and escargot all live on the same block. Dogs and cats are still at war, however.

YOU SHOULD KNOW … The 47 bus (up Seventh and down Eighth) is an easy way in and out, but when the weather’s nice you’ll have no problem walking or biking downtown. Parking can be a pain in the ass. Scope out Parking Authority lots and off-peak loading zones. Lifelong South Philly Dem Frank DiCicco (215686-3458) has been repping the First District in City Council since 1996.

WHILE YOU’RE HERE … • Put on your straw hat and play bocce at Bardascino Park • Go thrifting at Philly AIDS Thrift and earn your Good Samaritan badge • Tell an embarrassing story at L’Etage’s monthly First Person Arts-sponsored StorySlams • Take figure sculpting at Fleisher Art Memorial • Make reservations weeks ahead of time for Bibou — the escargots alone are worth the wait

831 Christian St., 215-238-0379, 12stepsdown.com

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EXPLORE … BARS + CLUBS 12 Steps Down What 12 Steps Down lacks in windows it makes up for in adornment. Plus, the beer’s cheap and the shots are generous. The Dive 947 E. Passyunk Ave., 215-465-5505

Tucked into a little brick row home on Passyunk, the Dive is the type of neighborhood bar you wished you had just around the corner from your place.

New Wave Café 784 S. Third St., 215-922-8484, newwavecafe.com

The New Wave Café is a friendly, low-key neighborhood bar with a mild sports theme and a happily retro-new-wave jukebox. Royal Tavern 937 E. Passyunk Ave., 215-389-6694, royaltavern.com

Within an area known for its faux fleur-de-lisness, the Royal’s sleek and spare nature — while still quite regal — is welcome. Wishing Well Public House 767 S. Ninth St., 215-238-6555, wishingwellphilly.com

Wishing Well features a mahogany bar with 12 taps and plenty of high-top seating; don’t miss the signature egg- and scrapple-topped SHAME Burger. RESTAURANTS + MARKETS Adsum 700 S. Fifth St., 267-888-7002, adsumrestaurant.com

The name’s Latin for “I Am Here”; the décor’s vintage university chic; the cocktails are bespoke; and the menu’s teeming with clever combinations like foie gras poutine and “KFC sweetbreads.” Bella Vista Beer Distributors 755 S. 11th St., 215-627-6465

The 38,000-square-foot space carries around 1,100 beers — if it’s available in the Common-


wealth of Pennsylvania, they have it. Pick up a keg, a case or a sixer of high-end soda. Bibou 1009 S. Eighth St., 215-965-8290, biboubyob.com

Neighborhood sweetheart Bibou is the best French bistro is a city teeming with them. The setting is casual, but it doesn’t take long for the owners’ sophisticated pedigrees to emerge. Bistrot La Minette 623 S. Sixth St., 215-925-8000, bistrotlaminette.com

Bistrot La Minette is a warm, intimate Francophilian restaurant that should delight anyone in search of refuge. Cafe Diem 1031 S. Eighth St., 215-923-8347

Pho is phat. But before this Vietnamese comfort food was adopted by the masses, Café Diem was dishing out lovely lotus-shaped bowls of the stuff to Vietnamese folks hungry for a taste of home. Chapterhouse Cafe & Gallery 620 S. Ninth St., 215-238-2626

James Restaurant

Fabric Row

824 S. Eighth St., 215-629-4980, jameson8th.com

Fourth and Bainbridge streets, fabricrow.org

Situated in a surprisingly spacious Italian Market nook, James exudes an atmosphere of comfort; well-spaced tables are big enough to pass dishes back and forth with ease. And you’re going to want to share.

Head down Fourth Street and take your pick among shops that sell fabrics by the yard.

Morning Glory Diner 735 S. 10th St., 215-413-3999, themorningglorydiner.com

A small, homey and charming little neighborhood restaurant featuring high-quality fresh foods. If you’ve never tried a veggie burger, this is the place to do it — and don’t forget to ask for a side of homemade ketchup. Paesano’s 901 Christian St., 215-922-2220

This Paesano’s location features all of their wellloved standards — think the Paesano, the Arista and the Gustaio — along with new eats, like the Liveracce. Sabrina’s Cafe

Patrons can pick up a perk-up while perusing the walls, which have featured works by local artists; live bands and open mic nights round out the coffeehouse experience.

910-912 Christian St., 215-574-1599, sabrinascafe.com

Cochon

701 S. Fourth St., 215-238-1888, southwarkrestaurant.com

801 E. Passyunk Ave., 215-923-7675, cochonbyob.com

Cochon chef/co-owner Gene Giuffi pulls off French bistro food gracefully, breathing just the right amount of freshness into old classics. Essene Market 719 S. Fourth St., 215-922-1146, essenemarket.com

This natural-foods store features vegan and macrobiotic grocery goodies, plus vitamins, housewares, cosmetics, bulk foods — and even shoes. Famous 4th Street Delicatessen 700 S. Fourth St., 215-922-3274, famous4thstreetdelicatessen.com

Nobody knows Jewish-Euro noshing like this family-owned deli just south of South. Hawthornes 738 S. 11th St., 215-627-3012, hawthornecafe.com

Perhaps the coolest feature in the space is a custom gizmo that allows the owners to pressurefill 64-ounce growlers with hard-to-find craft beers — think Russian River and Lost Abbey. Hoof+Fin 617 S. Third St., 215-925-3070

The most interesting aspect of this rustic BYOB’s menu is the “From the Grill” portion, which allows diners to mix and match meat/seafood mains with starches and veggies. Isgro Pastries 1009 Christian St., 215-923-3092, isgropastries.com

Isgro’s signature cannoli is sacred, different than anyone else’s and secret. One surprise revealed: In the inside of the shell (not the filling), there is a combination of homemade wines.

Arguably the best brunch in town, this veg-friendly eatery offers a creative menu at fantastic value. Southwark The menu is seasonal, original — and global, as well. From the list of desserts, we can’t resist Southwark’s homemade ice cream. Vesuvio 738 S. Eighth St., 215-922-8380, vesuvio-online.com

Passional Boutique 704 S. Fifth St., 215-829-4986, passionalboutique.com

“Unmentionable” takes on new meaning at this sassy boutique whose tagline says it all: “Corsets. Passion. Fashion.” Philly AIDS Thrift 514 Bainbridge St., 215-922-3186, phillyaidsthrift.com

This nonprofit hawks all sorts of donated goodies, from housewares to clothing and tchotchkes, and proceeds to straight to local HIV/AIDS organizations. Trunk Show 313 Bainbridge St., 215-925-1207

This hidden gem’s constantly rotating storefront window display keeps us coming back for more. Wilbur Vintage 716 S. Fourth St., 215-413-5809, wilburvintage.blogspot.com

Sixties-inspired dresses, embroidered platform shoes, sunnies that’ve gone in and out of style a dozen times — you name it, Wilbur’s acquired it. PARKS + REC Bardascino Park 10th and Carpenter streets, bardascinopark.org

Cianfrani Park 8th and Fitzwater streets, cianfranipark.org

Vesuvio surprises with a border-crossing menu, boasting mussels and calamari fritti alongside salmon carpaccio and wild boar sausage.

Mario Lanza Park

ARTS + CULTURE Da Vinci Art Alliance

Palumbo Rec Center

Between Second and Third streets on Catharine Street, qvna.org/committees/mario.htm 10th and Fitzwater streets, palumbosoccer.org

704 Catharine St., 215-829-0466, davinciartalliance.org

Fleisher Art Memorial 719 Catharine St., 215-922-3456, fleisher.org

Regular exhibits and a slew of art classes keep this spot thriving. Pageant : Soloveev 607 Bainbridge St., 215-925-1535, pageantsoloveev.com

Society Hill Playhouse 507 S. Eighth St., 215-923-0210, societyhillplayhouse.org

This Victorian-style venue hosts many new comedies and East Coast premières. Shubin Theatre 407 Bainbridge St., 215-413-1318, phillyimprovtheater.com

The home of Philly Improv Theater has a teeny stage that’s perfect for audience participation. SHOPPING Bus Stop 750 S. Fourth St., 215-627-2357, busstopboutique.com

The only Philly shoe store Carrie Bradshaw would realistically set her Manolos in is presided over by the impeccably stylish Elena Brennan, who has a fetish for European heels. WWW.CITYPAPER.NET

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THE HOODS

Sidecar Bar & Grille 2201 Christian St., 215-732-3429, thesidecarbar.com

Miller High Life specials coexist with a craft brew-leaning draft selection and smarter-thanyour-average bar eats.

GRADUATE HOSPITAL/GRAYS FERRY/SOUTH STREET WEST WE’VE GOT EVERYTHING BUT A HOSPITAL. If you’re new to the city, the fact that this area’s known as “Graduate Hospital” is befuddling, as the hospital in question shut down in 2007. But its closing triggered something of an identity crisis for this neighborhood, a compact, largely residential quadrant which reaches from South to Washington and from Broad to Grays Ferry Avenue: “Southwest Center City” is accurate but dull, “SoSo” (for South of South) is gag-worthy, and no way was the quaint “Marian Anderson Heritage Village” gonna fly. The blogspeaky “GHo” hasn’t quite stuck, either, but it’s certainly catchier than “PennMed at Rittenhouse.” WHILE YOU’RE HERE … • Take advantage of the Jamaican Jerk Hut’s ginormous outside seating area — just watch out for the in-ground bathtub • Learn how to make everything from A-line dresses to Christmas stockings at Spool • Pair honey-drizzled fried chicken with pretty much any beer at Resurrection Ale House • Mark your calendar for the mid-June Odunde Festival, wherein South Street turns into one big street fair

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• Hit up Bob & Barbara’s for a citywide special — that’s a can of PBR and a shot of Beam — or keep it classy and just go to their weekly drag show YOU SHOULD KNOW … Parking is generally free and easy to find — as long as you stay away from South Street. The nearest SEPTA subway station is the Broad Street Line (South and Broad), though buses are also convenient (routes 12, 17 and 40 run through this ’hood). Graduate Hospital falls within the City’s Second District, represented by Councilwoman Anna Verna (215-686-3412). EXPLORE … BARS + CLUBS Grace Tavern 2229 Grays Ferry Ave., 215-893-9580, gracetavern.com

Vintage beauty aside, Grace offers an impressive beer selection and delectable grub. Resurrection Ale House 2425 Grays Ferry Ave., 215-735-2202, resurrectionalehouse.com

The beer list here is kick-ass: 12 fairly priced drafts, plus a few dozen upmarket bottles dominated by Belgian imports.

Ten Stone 2063 South St., 215-735-9939, tenstone.com

Warm lighting, lots of tables, an extensive beer list, occasional live music and good, unpretentious food (try the focaccia) make Ten Stone a worthwhile visit. RESTAURANTS + MARKETS Ants Pants Cafe 2212 South St., 215-875-8002, antspantscafe.com

This tiny G-Ho coffeehouse greets you with glass cases full of cookies, scones, muffins and cakes. The hybrid breakfast/lunch menu features intriguing variations on typical café fare. Beauty Shop Café 2001 Fitzwater St., 215-546-1002, beautyshopcafe.com

Beauty Shop is the first café in the city to carry beans roasted by Chestnut Hill Coffee Co. Café L’Aube 1512 South St., 267-614-2109, cafelaube.com

Jean-Luc Fanny makes crêpes and waffles (and slender French-style sandwiches) better than just about anyone in town. Divan Turkish Kitchen 918 S. 22nd St., 215-545-5790, divanturkishkitchen.com

When it comes to laid-back comfort and straightforward, unpretentious flavors, siblings Ilker and Fulya Ugur have hit on a formula that serves them well in this rapidly changing part of town.


Jamaican Jerk Hut 1436 South St., 215-545-8644, jamaicanjerkhutinc.com

A casual BYOB on South, the Jerk Hut combines authentic Caribbean food with outdoor seating, making the restaurant a delightful place for a summer dinner. La Va Café 2100 South St., 215-545-1508, lava-cafe.com

La Va has become a prime destination for any local with a laptop and a caffeine buzz. Pico De Gallo 534 S. 15th St., 215-545-2710

The ambience at South Street’s Pico de Gallo is all piñatas and Day of the Dead memorabilia, but when it comes to burritos, it’s all business. Pumpkin 1713 South St., 215-545-4448, pumpkinphilly.com

Pumpkin lights a beacon of BYOB excellence on South Street West: The service is perfect and the setup is thoughtful down to the smallest details. Ron’s Ribs 1627 South St.

Follow the sweet smoke to Ron’s, which has been owned by the same two families since 1945. MUSIC Bob & Barbara’s Lounge 1509 South St., 215-545-4511, sswba.org

The live entertainment at this South Street staple is as diverse as the Pabst-chugging clientele —

catch jazz acts, drunken spelling bee contests and a weekly drag show. Tritone 1508 South St., 215-545-0475, tritonebar.com

An eclectic and diverse mix of folk, jazz, DJ and rock acts available for a minimal cover charge almost every day of the week. SHOPPING Girl.Bike.Dog. 625 South 23rd St., girlbikedog.com

You’ll never guess the target audience of this G-Ho shop: girls who ride bikes and have dogs — and who want to look cute while doing it. Loop 1914 South St., 215-893-9939, loopknits.com

This South Street yarn shop sells everything you could possibly need to pick up a new knitting habit. Spool 1912 South St., 215-545-0755, spoolsewing.com

Loop’s fabric-focused sister store also offers sewing classes for beginners and pros alike. PARKS + REC Julian Abele Park 22nd and Carpenter streets, julianabelepark.org

Marian Anderson Recreation Center 744 S. 17th St., 215-685-6594, marianandersonrec.org

.ORG

COLLEGE STUDENTS

MEET PHILADELPHIA

PHILADELPHIA, MEET COLLEGE STUDENTS. FOR DEALS, NEWS, & REVIEWS VISIT

WWW.CAMPUSPHILLY.ORG

Yeah, grad students. You count too. Campus Philly is a nonprofit that connects college students to the Greater Philadelphia region through internships, discounts, community service, reviews and more.

great beer, wine & spirits Blackened Green Beans Bistro Salad • Fresh Chicken Salad • Fresh Burger on LeBus Brioche Bun • Jambalaya Oyster Po’Boy w/remoulade sauce • Fresh Sausage Sandwiches • Fresh Pomme Frites w/ Monk’s Bourbon Mayo


photos by Neal Santos

THE HOODS

Pub on Passyunk East 1501 E. Passyunk Ave., 215-755-5125, pubonpassyunkeast.com

EAST PASSYUNK/ITALIAN MARKET EAT ON DOWN THE ROADS. East Passyunk Avenue (say it: PASH-unk) runs in a northeastern diagonal line between Broad and South streets, connecting South Philly to Bella Vista, eventually making its way to South Street. For our purposes we’re considering the East Passyunk ’hood to encompass anything on the Avenue from Broad to Washington; there you’ll find a pie-in-the-sky slew of inventive new restaurants and shops — with enough old-school flair to keep your feet on the ground. The Italian Market, which intersects East Passyunk at its base, runs from Wharton Street (where Pat’s and Geno’s have been in a cheesesteak rivalry since the dawn of time) all the way up to Christian and beyond. Produce peddlers line tiny Ninth Street, flanked on both sides by row-home shops and restaurants. WHILE YOU’RE HERE … • Buy your first whole pig at Cannuli’s; figure out what to do with it later • Snag a table at Cantina los Caballitos and sip whatever margarita flavor your bearded lumberjack/server recommends

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The P.O.P.E. combines a killer draft selection (check the big chalk boards), mind-boggling bottle list (ask for the book), pub food and, on weekends, wall-to-wall skinny jeans and rompers. Ray’s Happy Birthday Bar 1200 E. Passyunk Ave., 215-365-1169, thehappybirthdaybar.com

• Give your backyard container garden a boost at Urban Jungle • Sit outside at Gleaner’s and watch the Italian Market work its magic • Sing along with Sinatra at the Tasker Street Fountain YOU SHOULD KNOW … The 47 bus snails reliably up Seventh and down Eighth, but why go SEPTA when East Passyunk is just a 10-minute cycle from Center City? Visit passyunksquare.org for helpful resources and numbers, like the contact for your First District Councilman, Frank DiCicco (215-686-3458). EXPLORE … BARS + CLUBS Lucky 13 Pub 1820 S. 13th St., 215-336-8467, lucky13pubphilly.com

P’unk Ave. is a friendly corridor for fans of good beer, so Lucky runs six brews on tap, with many locals. They also have two flat screens for your Iggles needs.

Ray’s is a place where every man — if only for a night — can will himself into a chain-smoking, liquor-swilling, joke-peddling member of his own personal Rat Pack. RESTAURANTS + MARKETS B2 1500 E. Passyunk Ave., 215-271-5520

The menu at Benna’s second shop is similar to the original, with soups, pastries and an expanded sandwich menu. Old City Coffee is still the java of choice. Cannuli’s 937 S. Ninth St., 215-922-2988, cannulismeats.com

The Italian Market spot to pick up a nice-lookin’ piece of meat — some veal, lamb, beef, poultry or even a whole hog for your spitfire, that is. Cantina Los Caballitos 1651 E. Passyunk Ave., 215-755-3550, cantinaloscaballitos.com

The duo responsible for one South Philly favorite — the Royal Tavern — has another with Cantina los Caballitos in the heart of Passyunk Avenue.


approved coffee, bagel sandwiches and sweet indie tunes. The café also hosts monthly exhibits featuring local artists. Rad.

crafted by local artists. Brides-to-be and CEOs alike can hire Chartreuse to flood their functions with flowers.

Green Aisle Grocery

Fante’s

1618 E. Passyunk Ave., 215-465-1411,

1006 S. Ninth St., 215-922-5557, fantes.com

greenaislegrocery.com

After you’ve stocked up on groceries from the market, head to Fante’s to pick up the kitchenware that makes dinner possible — they’ve got variously shaped cake pans and espresso makers, pomegranate seed removers and frozen-herb mills.

This boutique grocery store carries the specialized products, some sourced from fancy-pants Philly restaurants, that make the locavore/foodie types drool. Izumi 1601 E. Passyunk Ave., 215-271-1222, izumiphilly.com

South Philly couple Corey Baver and Lynn Rinaldi were tired of trekking to Morimoto or Sagami for sushi — now their neighbors won’t have to, either. Le Virtu 1927 E. Passyunk Ave., 215-271-5626, levirtu.com

Le Virtù has established itself as one of the finer destinations on an already-pretty fine stretch of restaurant-lined pavement on East Passyunk. Mr. Martino’s Trattoria 1646 E. Passyunk Ave., 215-755-0663

Capogiro Gelateria 1625 E. Passyunk Ave., 215-462-3790, capogirogelato.com

In South Philly’s first Capogiro, local artisans restored the original counter stools to keep at least part of the red-gravy-ladling grandma charm alive. Claudio’s 924-26 S. Ninth St., 215-627-1873, claudiofood.com

Boasting its status as King of Cheeses could invite some snickers, but Claudio’s restores its dignity with an extensive menu of fresh specialty foods including olives and imported pastas. Di Bruno Bros. 930 S. Ninth St., 215-922-2876, dibruno.com

Yes, there’s always a line at this Italian Market mainstay, but the cheesemongers’ dairy-based expertise/willingness to dole out gigantic samples explains it/makes it all worth it. Fond 1617 E. Passyunk Ave., 215-551-5000, fondphilly.com

The pacing is as good as the food, and the down-toearth service bears the stamp of full investment. Fuel 1917 E. Passyunk Ave., 215-468-FUEL, fuelphilly.com

After a few bites at Rocco Cima’s health-conscious Passyunk Avenue spot, Fuel, it’s clear that this Q102 personality knows how to rock more than one kind of mixer. Gleaner’s 917 S. Ninth St., 215-923-3205, myspace.com/thegleanerscafe

To take a break from the Italian Market and recharge, stop by Gleaner’s for a cup of hipster-

Call for a reservation, and a voice on an oldfashioned machine asks you to leave details for Friday, Saturday or Sunday — the only days it’s open. If no one calls you back, that means you’re good to go. Pat’s King of Steaks 1237 E. Passyunk Ave., 215-468-1546, patskingofsteaks.com

Welcome to the Cheesesteak Capital of the Universe, located at the corner of Passyunk and Wharton in South Philly, where Pat’s competes with blindingly neon Geno’s (pictured). Rim Café

South Philly Comics 1621 E. Passyunk Ave., 267-318-7855, facebook.com/rko.south

South Philly Comics sells, well, comics, along with an array of nerd paraphernalia including graphic novels and toys for grown-ups. Sweet Jane Vintage 1820 E. Passyunk Ave., 215-339-0882

Offering a mixture of 1970s vintage and designer brands, Sweet Jane Vintage is a must for hipster girls caught up in the rat race that is fashion. Boyfriends, take note: There is a record section. Urban Jungle 1526 E. Passyunk Ave., 215-952-0811, urbanjunglephila.com

Pick up the tools needed for digging into the growing urban gardening scene. A knowledgeable staff can guide you through taking advantage of your home or apartment’s abundant vertical space and create a climbing garden of flowers and vines. PARKS + REC Singing Fountain Park Tasker and East Passyunk avenues, epcrossing.org

Capitolo Playground Ninth and Federal streets, 215-685-1883

Situated at the base of the Italian Market, Rim Café is a gentle refuge from the city’s gruff cheesesteak epicenter. Customers can get a jolt well into the evening, as the café’s open late.

Adjacent to Pat’s and Geno’s, Capitolo provides South Philly kids with a place to shoot hoops or play on a jungle gym. Capitolo also hosts a community garden and special events such as Easter-egg hunts, dance classes on the cheap and kid-friendly summer movies.

Teri’s Restaurant

Fitness Works

1126 S. Ninth St., 267-761-9154, terisdeli.com

714 Reed St., 215-334-8190, fitnessworksphiladelphia.com

Originally a brunch-and-lunch spot, Teri’s has recently acquired a liquor license and is focusing on its potential as a bar.

Bulk up or slim down at Fitness Works, a fullservice gym offering up-to-date equipment, weekly classes and a heated, four-lane pool.

1172 S. Ninth St., 215-465-3515, rimcafe.com

MUSIC Connie’s RicRac 1132 S. Ninth St., 215-279-7587, conniesricrac.com

This up-and-comer was once an electronics store owned by Mrs. Tartaglia, until her sons did good and transformed it into a successful venue for local rock bands. She must be so proud. SHOPPING Chartreuse 1616 E. Passyunk Ave., 215-545-7711, chartreuseflorist.com

Chartreuse draws upon a Parisian sensibility to create a beautiful floral shop brimming with international flower varieties and home décor

WWW.CITYPAPER.NET

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THE HOODS

of tiny, dingy dive bar where drinks are cheap and amateur strippers sometimes put on electrical tape and dance on wobbly tables. But it’s actually quite large. South Philadelphia Taproom

SOUTH PHILLY

1509 Mifflin St., 215-271-7787, southphiladelphiataproom.com

This Newbold-area bar’s clientele is a cross section of “south of South” drinkers: old and young, black and white, business and bohemian.

BUILT TO LAST. Attempting to define the huge swath of city south of Washington between the Delaware and Schuylkill rivers is like trying to put a hairnet on a Hell’s Angel: unnecessary and dangerous. No matter which adjective you choose, it will neglect a vocal population that will beat you down like the Feds did Joey Merlino. The neighborhoods that encompass South Philly — Pennsport, Southwark, Wharton, Newbold, LoMo … the list goes on — are bright with Mexican, Vietnamese, Cambodian and Thai communities that dot a traditionally Italian enclave of dense rowhomes. The area is pure catnip to urbanites willing to trade street cleaning for affordable property and big box proximity.

YOU SHOULD KNOW … Below ground, the Broad Street subway line provides a zippy north-south ride; above, parking in the middle of the street can seem like a freefor-all, but flies only below Washington. The 23 and 7 bus lines connect those farther afield. First District Councilman Frank DiCicco (215-6863458) and Second District City Councilwoman Anna Verna (215-686-3412), both Democrats, have served South Philadelphia for years.

WHILE YOU’RE HERE … • Get up early on New Year’s Day and watch the Mummers Parade from Two Street (that’s deepsouth Second Street to yous) • Swallow your hipster pride: Update your wardrobe on the cheap at Marshall’s • Watch skateboarders kick it at FDR Park • Wait in line for a roast pork sandwich from Tony Luke’s • Duck in to the Dolphin Tavern and soak in an authentic South Philly experience

Sidle up to some Mojo IPA on tap, grab a bottle of the Belgian Chimay Trappist Ale or choose from a wide array of vinos (we’re a sucker for those jammy, spicy Argentinian Malbecs).

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EXPLORE … BARS + CLUBS 1601 1601 S. 10th St., 215-218-3840, 1601cafe.com

Devil’s Den 1148 S. 11th St., 215-339-0855, devilsdenphilly.com

A place for the true suds lover, with 16 brews on tap and 150-200 bottles in the cold case. The Dolphin Tavern 1539 S. Broad St., 215-467-1752, myspace.com/dolphintavern

From the outside, the Dolphin looks like the kind

The Ugly American 1100 S. Front St., 215-336-1100, uglyamericanphilly.com

The Ugly American is more of a tongue-in-cheek celebration than a send-up, with a thoughtful list of domestic microbrews and wines and inventive food spinning new takes on regional cuisines. RESTAURANTS + MARKETS August 1247 S. 13th St., 215-468-5926, augustbyob.com

Expect a menu featuring summery crab cakes and scallops, as well as heavier dishes like rigatoni Bolognese and pumpkin pie that regulars keep insisting on. Bitar’s 947 Federal St., 215-755-1121, bitars.com

A local mecca for hummus, tabbouleh and baba ganoush; grape leaves are a staple, as is the gyro, available in Middle Eastern, Greek and Mediterranean varieties. Also a grocery. Bomb Bomb Bar-B-Q Grill 1026 Wolf St., 215-463-1311

Frank Barbato renamed the place when he acquired it, and has newspaper clippings recounting both of the building’s bombings hanging in the bar.


Brew

Green Eggs Café

1900 S. 15th St., 215-339-5177, ultimocoffee.wordpress.com

1306 Dickinson St., 215-226-EGGS, greeneggscafe.net

Every morning till 11 a.m., java guy Aaron Ultimo offers house fuel brewed in a Chemex coffeemaker. After 11, choose from a lineup of four artisanal coffees.

The “green” in the name refers to the owners’ ecofriendly approach to doing business. The “eggs” part? It features a solid-priced breakfast/lunch/ brunch menu available daily from 8 a.m. to 4 p.m.

Cafe de Laos

John’s Roast Pork

1117 S. 11th St., 215-467-1546

14 E. Snyder Ave., 215-463-1951, johnsroastpork.com

Cafe de Laos has won admirers for its affordable and delicious Thai and Lao offerings.

John’s cheesesteaks are coveted for a reason: The fresh rolls are key, but it’s really about the masterful folding of onions and cheese into the meat during grilling.

Carman’s Country Kitchen 1301 S. 11th St., 215-339-9613

There are about four tables and a half-dozen counter seats at Carman’s Country Kitchen, but gracious owner Carman Luntzel always manages to fit in every last hungry customer. Chickie’s Italian Deli 1014 Federal St., 215-462-8040

You won’t be hard-pressed for options at this longrunning, always-crowded South Philly hoagie shop, which uses Sarcone’s rolls. Their signature sandwich is the veggie hoagie, with blackened peppers, broccoli rabe and eggplant. Cosmi’s Deli 1501 S. Eighth St., 215-468-6093, cosmideli.com

On an otherwise nondescript South Philly corner, Cosmi’s stands out for its extensive menu of droolworthy cheesesteaks and Italian favorites.

Los Gallos 951 Wolf St., 215-551-1245

This LoMo (that’s Lower Moyamensing to you) newbie boasts incredibly cheap, incredibly delicious Mexican fare, from tacos and quesadillas to football-size tortas. Philip’s Steaks 2234 W. Passyunk Ave., 215-755-4820

Close by the Girard Estates, Philip’s is a reliable, un-touristy mecca for all things Whiz — and you won’t get yelled at if you don’t order right the first time. Pho Ha 610 Washington Ave., 215-599-0264

Pho Ha’s one of a handful of places on the Washington Ave. corridor where you can get big (like, seriously) bowls of spicy Vietnamese beef noodle

soup for cheap. Fun fact: In Vietnam, they eat this for breakfast. SLiCE 1180 S. 10th St., 215-463-0868, slicepa.com

This gourmet takeout joint has freshness on the brain. Their golden-baked Neopolitian pizzas are worth waiting for. Taqueria La Veracruzana 908 Washington Ave., 215-465-1440

This no-frills Mexican joint does serious justice to the phrase “South of the Border.” Termini Bros. Bakery 1523 S. Eighth St., 215-334-1816, termini.com

Vincent Termini’s wildly popular bakery headquarters serves all manner of Italian pastries, cake, cookies and cannoli. Picking up sweets for the holidays? Expect to wait in line. MUSIC Victor Café 1303 Dickinson St., 215-468-3040, victorcafe.com

Expect the usual — an old-school Italian menu peppered with antipasti, daily fish specials and all manner of pasta — and the unusual: This restaurant features live opera seven nights a week. Wells Fargo Center 3601 S. Broad St., 215-336-3600

When the Sixers and the Flyers aren’t battling it out, the large indoor venue hosts big national acts like Coldplay and Janet Jackson as well as tours like American Idols Live.

PASSYUNK AVE (7TH & CARPENTER)

215.465.5505

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NEW

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THE HOODS: SOUTH PHILLY

Citizens Bank Park

ARTS + CULTURE American Swedish Historical Museum

dancers puts on a performance of such classic pieces as The Nutcracker.

1 Citizens Bank Way, 215-463-1000, citizensbank.com

1900 Pattison Ave., 215-389-1776, americanswedish.org

Theatre Exile

Jefferson Square Park

1340 S 13th St., 215-218-4022, theatreexile.org

Fourth Street and Washington Avenue,

A nonprofit theater company that puts on gritty, sometimes provocative, works for serious theater fans.

jeffersonsquarepark.org

Sure, it’s an odd location for a history museum, but that means the quirk factor is sufficiently amped: The space hosts everything from crayfish parties to Swedish language classes in addition to regular exhibits. The Rock School 1101 S. Broad St., 215-551-7010, therockschool.org

Every now and again, this school for young

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FDR Park

1316 S. Ninth St., 267-687-3739, kunyanglin.org

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photo by Neal Santos

THE HOODS

SOUTHWEST PHILADELPHIA AN AERIAL PHOTOGRAPH OF... Some think of Southwest Philadelphia as flyover country — given its proximity to Philly International Airport. It’s a complicated area with a mix of industrial gray (Sun Oil’s refineries, auto-part shops), residential neighborhoods (Kingsessing and Eastwick, home of Philly’s highest numbered street, the fightin’ 90th) and surprising greenery (Tinicum, Bartram’s Garden). Its rough boundaries are the Schuylkill River to the east, Island Avenue to the south and Cobbs Creek to the west. The swath between Baltimore Avenue and the R3 tracks is the subject of a border dispute with West Philly, so for our purposes, the railway separates Southwest Philly from its closest neighbor. WHILE YOU’RE HERE … • Seek out the 18th-century farmhouse that sits on the 1800 block of South Vogdes Street • Order the jerk chicken at Little Delicious • Go fishing on the grassy shores of Cobbs Creek • Learn more than you ever thought you needed to know about antique race cars at the Simeone Foundation Museum YOU SHOULD KNOW … Lots of people fly here (phl.org). The major railservice SEPTA line is the subway-surface trolley

line, or Green Line, which has stops at 61st Street and Baltimore Avenue, at Mount Moriah on Kingsessing Avenue, and in Eastwick, at the Penrose Plaza Shopping Center; bus service also runs throughout. The Southwest Community Development Corp. (6328 Paschall Ave., 215-729-0800, southwestcdc.org) offers programs for families, homeowners and economic development, and woodlandavenue.org is the online directory of the area’s commercial corridor. City Council President Anna Verna (215-686-3412) represents the Second District in City Hall. EXPLORE … RESTAURANTS + MARKETS Fred’s Water Ice 5343 Chester Ave., 215-726-1918 An ice-cold oasis in the desert.

Memdee’s 6761 Guyer Ave., 215-365-5208 Monrovia on the Schuylkill; Liberian home cooking in the 215. Start with the Craig LaBan-recommended fufu and soup and proceed. PARKS + REC Bartram’s Garden 54th Street and Lindbergh Boulevard, 215-729-5281, bartramsgarden.org America’s oldest botanical garden surrounds 18th Century naturalist/explorer John Bartram’s estate. Cobbs Creek Community Environmental Education Center 700 Cobbs Creek Parkway, 215-685-1900, cobbscreekcenter.org Open since 2001, this learning center features hiking trails, wetlands and a learning mural. Fort Mifflin 1 Fort Mifflin Road, 215-685-4167, fortmifflin.us Fort Mifflin, technically south of Southwest Philly, is billed as “the fort that Saved America!” Bring a picnic or your Boy Scout troop.

Little Delicious 4821 Woodland Ave., 215-729-4911 Caribbean food worth seeking out.

John Heinz National Wildlife Refuge at Tinicum 8601 Lindbergh Blvd., 215-365-3118, heinz.fws.gov These barely touched marshes and woodlands are free and open to the public from sunrise to sunset every day.

Mari’nas African Cuisine 6404 Chester Ave., 215-921-5284 Sierra Leonean delicacies including cassava leaf, fry stew, ground nut soup and homemade hot pepper sauce.

Simeone Foundation Museum 6825 Norwitch Drive, 215-365-7233, simeonefoundation.org A local racecar collector shows off his Thunderbirds, Jaguars and Bearcats.

WWW.CITYPAPER.NET

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photos by Neal Santos

THE HOODS

Dock Street Brewing Co. 701 S. 50th St., 215-726-2337, dockstreetbeer.com

Offers crispy pizzas and six varieties of beer on tap daily, including a gluten-free Sudanese grass brew. Local 44

WEST PHILLY/UNIVERSITY CITY CHILLIN’ OUT, MAXIN’, RELAXIN’ ALL COOL. Despite a still-lively debate over what’s West Philly and what’s University City, most residents agree that the area’s a vibrant, verdant haven for college students (centered around UPenn and Drexel in the 30 and lower-40 streets) and co-op dwellers (concentrated in the Cedar Park neighborhood flanking Baltimore Avenue) alike. Here you’ll find high-end cuisine mingling with old standards, parks that do double-time as basketball courts and theater stages, and all manner of folk who choose to spend time here simply because of all the greenery. WHILE YOU’RE HERE … • Be brave and try the huitlacoche (Google it) huaraches at Distrito • Watch a movie — or an entire series — at the International House’s Ibrahim Theater • Make like a true West Philadelphia hipster and hit up Danger Danger Gallery for a punk rock show • Buy your produce at the Clark Park Farmers Market • Visit the Institute of Contemporary Art on a hot summer day: It’s cool and it’s free

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YOU SHOULD KNOW … The farther west you go, the easier it is to find street parking. To get to and from Center City, catch the Market-Frankford El along Market Street or the trolleys that service Baltimore, Chester and Woodland — or, by all means, bike! (Watch out for trolley tracks, though.) Best bets for buses: the 21, 42 and 40. West Philly is represented by Third District Councilwoman Jannie Blackwell (215686-3418). EXPLORE … BARS + CLUBS The Blockley Pourhouse

4333 Spruce St., 215-222-BEER, local44beerbar.com

The beer selection at this West Philly spot (18 on tap, with two hand pumps) is in a league of its own. RESTAURANTS + MARKETS Abyssinia 229 S. 45th St., 215-387-2424

When we crave Ethiopian and Eritrean food, we head straight for Abyssinia. Try the garlicky doro wat or any of the delicious vegetarian lentil- and bean-based dishes. Head upstairs for drinks at Fiume. Dahlak 4708 Baltimore Ave., 215-726-6464, dahlakrestaurant.com

There are a number of East African restaurants in the area, and Dahlak is among the most authentic. Each dish is large enough to be eaten by a party of two or three.

3801 Chestnut St., 215-222-1234, theblockley.com

Desi Chaat House

The Blockley is a pub and live music venue with room for 800. The bar menu features eats like poutine and a New England clam roll.

501 S. 42nd St., 215-386-1999, desichaathouse.com

City Tap House

A pan-South Asian comfort food, chaat can describe an array of savory snackies and condiments sold from street carts across the subcontinent.

3925 Walnut St., 215-662-0105, citytaphouse.com

Distrito

Accessible via both a dedicated elevator and the steps off Walnut, the bar/restaurant/outdoor space has a selection of 60 beers on tap.

3945 Chestnut St., 215-222-1657, distritorestaurant.com

The hot-pink interior, VW Beetle booth and wall of luchador wrestling masks should tip you off to the fun, frenetic vibe at Jose Garces’ West Philly small-plater.


Fu-Wah Mini Market 810 S. 47th St., 215-729-2993

West Philadelphians are positively evangelical about Fu-Wah’s fried tofu hoagie (banh mi), and for good reason: It’s divine. Honest Tom’s Taco Shop 33rd and Arch streets

Head to this corner cart throughout the week, where Honest Tom’s offers tacos and coffee from Portland, Ore.’s famed Stumptown.

hummus fresh healthy mediterranean food

Hummus 3931 Walnut St., 215-222-5300, hummusrestaurant.com

This University City restaurant’s shawarma is incredibly succulent, and the depth of flavor is no fluke: The chicken on the spit is layered with lamb fat. Kaffa Crossing 4423 Chestnut St., 215-386-0504, kaffacrossing.com

A family-run business, the café offers free WiFi access to breakfast and lunch patrons, plus an array of fair-trade crafts and fair-trade coffee. Le Cochon Noir 5070 Parkside Ave., Suite 5100 E, 215-879-1011, lecochonnoir.com

This out-of-the-way venue, off Parkside Avenue near Fairmount Park, specializes in dry-rubbed, slow-smoked barbecue (the ribs are some of the best in town), plus lively performances from both local and national jazz, blues and R&B artists. Lovers and Madmen 28 S. 40th St., 215-243-9851

This coffee house — the name’s inspired by a bit of dialogue from A Midsummer Night’s Dream — offers espresso and French press coffee from Counter Culture. Marigold Kitchen 501 S. 45th St., 215-222-3699, marigoldkitchenbyob.com

Chef Robert Halpern proves his mettle with strong, vivid flavors rather than relying on “postmodern” cookery for every dish. Pod 3636 Sansom St., 215-387-1803, podrestaurant.com

TRY IT.

Certainly there’s cheaper sushi and Thai just around the corner in University City, but where else would you get the outrageous décor and the sense of fun that Stephen Starr so knowingly dispenses? Rx Café 4443 Spruce St., 215-222-9590, myspace.com/rxcafe

Here’s a prescription for chasing away the winter blahs: Hike up to the old apothecary. There’s such a good feeling of discovery, of experimentation, of wishes fulfilled, that you can’t help but join in. Soleil de Minuit 5148 Locust St., 215-459-2255

West Philly’s Soleil de Minuit is the only established Malian restaurant in Philly; highlights include entrées like tender lamb chops and blackened whole tilapia.

M-Th 11am-10pm F-Sat 11am-11pm Sun 12-10pm 3931 Walnut Street 215-222-5300/5301 www.hummusrestaurant.com


THE HOODS: WEST PHILLY/UNIVERSITY CITY

W

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PEN

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WHERE THOSE IN THE KNOW GO FOR JAZZ BLUES & BBQ! 2ND PLACE WINNER

(Ribs Category, Restaurant Division) Steven Starr – Garry Maddox BBQ Challenge

5070 Parkside Ave

(on Parkside btwn 50th and 51st down the street from the Mann Center)

(215) 879-1011 www.lecochonnoir.com

Wed-Sun open for Dinner beginning at 5pm.

CHECK US OUT ON FACEBOOK

Vientiane Café

The Rotunda

4728 Baltimore Ave., 215-726-1095

4014 Walnut St., 215-573-3234, therotunda.org

West Philadelphians flock to this compact BYOB for Laotian/Vietnamese fresh spring rolls with a hint of mint and for Vientiane’s signature dessert: four tiny blue-edged dishes of coconut pudding.

This transformed West Philly church hosts a steady diet of community events along with films, plays, dance performances and live music.

White Dog Café

19 S. 69th St., 610-352-2887, tower-theatre.com

3420 Sansom St., 215-386-9224, whitedog.com

This long-running West Philly restaurant is a figurehead in the fair-trade, organic and sustainable business communities in Philadelphia. MUSIC Danger Danger Gallery 5013 Baltimore Ave., myspace.com/dangerdangergallery

Asking only for $5-$10 donations at the door, this all-ages West Philly spot brings in obscure acts from across the country.

Photo © Conrad Erb

Tower Theater Technically in Upper Darby, the Tower’s accessible via subway and hosts big-name acts in all sorts of genres — think the Pixies, Primus and Interpol. World Café Live 3025 Walnut St., 215-222-1400, worldcafelive.com

Enjoy local and big-name artists from all genres as well as open mic nights and concerts for kids at this two-floor venue. Be on the lookout for free events.

Gojjo

ARTS + CULTURE The A-Space

4540 Baltimore Ave., 215-386-1444

4722 Baltimore Ave., 215-821-6877, the-aspace.org

This unsuspecting Ethiopian bar hosts weekly installments of avant-garde jazz.

An anarchist community space that hosts NORML meetings, lectures and First Friday events.

Green Line Café

AIRSPACE

4239 Baltimore Ave., 215-222-3431, greenlinecafe.com

4013 Chestnut St., 215-694-9719, 40streetair.blogspot.com

This is the original in a line of three West Philly hangouts good for enjoying local performers, open mic nights, poetry readings and art shows. Oh yeah, and coffee. Millcreek Tavern 4200 Chester Ave., 215-222-1255, millcreektavernphilly.com

Emerging local groups perform regularly at this West Philly bar, home to 13-plus draught selections. Pilam 3914 Spruce St., myspace.com/pilam

The hippest Penn fraternity house of them all doubles as an occasional venue, hosting acts as big as Pattern is Movement and the famed Human Barbecue each summer.

Annenberg Center for the Performing Arts 3680 Walnut St., 215-898-3900, pennpresents.org

This 1971 venue is a one-stop shop for theater, dance, African music, Irish performance art and more. Community Education Center 3500 Lancaster Ave., 215-387-1911, cecarts.org

A meeting place that hosts performances, seminars and workshops. Curio Theatre Co. 815 S. 48th St., 215-525-1350, curiotheatre.org

In its sixth season, Curio strives for imaginative theater performed by up-and-coming actors. Dhyana Yoga 3945 Chestnut St., 215-222-9642, dhyana-yoga.com


Esther M. Klein Art Gallery

Sam Quinn Gallery

Urban Outfitters

3600 Market St., 215-966-6188, breadboardphilly.org

4501 Spruce St., 267-408-5769, samquinn.com

110 S. 36th St., 215-387-6990, urbanoutfitters.com

International House

Shofuso

3701 Chestnut St., 215-387-5125, ihousephilly.org

5070 Parkside Ave., 215-878-5097, shofuso.com

Institute of Contemporary Art 118 S. 36th St., 215-898-7108, icaphila.org

Kelly Writers House 3805 Locust Walk, 215-746-7636, writing.upenn.edu/wh

The University of Pennsylvania’s self-run center for writing hosts music performances, seminars and book readings. Leonard Pearlstein Gallery 3215 Market St., 215-895-2548, drexel.edu/westphal/gallery

Mann Center for the Performing Arts 5201 Parkside Ave., 215-893-1999, manncenter.org

The Philly Pops, the Philadelphia Orchestra and the Chamber Orchestra of Philadelphia are all regulars at this large open-air theater. Catch bigname rock and jazz acts, too. Philadelphia Zoo 3400 Girard Ave., 215-243-1100, philadelphiazoo.org

Located in the west side of Fairmount Park, Shofuso is a traditional 17th-century Japanese tea house that doubles as a performing arts venue. Slought Foundation 4017 Walnut St., 215-222-9050, slought.org

Studio 34 4522 Baltimore Ave., 215-387-3434, studio34yoga.com

Not just yoga by any means: Studio 34 hosts dance parties, art exhibits and workshops, too. University of Pennsylvania Museum of Archaeology and Anthropology 3260 South St., 215-898-4000, penn.museum

Houses an immense collection of cultural-heritage artifacts. SHOPPING The Marvelous! 208 S. 40th St., 215-386-6110

Add it to the list of firsts: The Philadelphia Zoo was the very first of its kind in America, and today hosts more than 1,300 animals.

A purveyor of records perfect for the jazz junkie.

Please Touch Museum

There’s no better place to thrift than West Philly, where second-hand is just part of the culture.

4231 Avenue of the Republic, 215-581-3181, pleasetouchmuseum.org

Perfect for the kiddos, Please Touch is a fully hands-on museum experience.

ECLECTIC

HIP URBAN UNIVERSITY SQUARE includes funky shops and nationally known stores, bistros, outdoor cafes and fine dining. galleries and cultural venues. Stroll up and down our treelined streets and visit us to experience more than 80 places to shop, dine and meet all within walking distance. Parking is available at 34th & Chestnut Streets www.universitysquare.biz

The Second Mile 214 S. 45th St., 215-662-1663, secondmilecenter.com

University Square 34th and Chestnut streets, 215-243-0555, universitysquare.biz

On the other side of the spectrum, the campus Urban location services those who prefer their second-hand looks unscathed by previous owners. VIX Emporium 5009 Baltimore Ave., 215-471-7700, vixemporium.com

Jump on the Green Line for a much-needed visit to this handmade-goods boutique that stocks work by local artists and crafters, including plenty by West Philly neighbors. PARKS + REC Clark Park 4300 Chester Ave., 215-552-8186, clarkpark.info

Fencing Academy of Philadelphia 3519 Lancaster Ave., 215-382-0293, fap-fencing.com

Malcolm X Park 5039 Osage Ave., malcolmxpark.org


photos by Neal Santos

THE HOODS

Manayunk Brewery and Restaurant 4120 Main St., 215-482-8220, manayunkbrewery.com

MANAYUNK/ROXBOROUGH/EAST FALLS HEAD FOR THE HILLS. Set along Philly’s Schuylkill-bordering northwest quadrant — less than 15 minutes from Center City — Manayunk, Roxborough and East Falls are three demographically diverse neighborhoods with individual charms but a collective mill-town sensibility. These enclaves boast dense, eclectic housing stock and small pockets of commercial activity amid green swathes of park and towering hills. WHILE YOU’RE HERE … • Grab a spot at the top of the Manayunk Wall (aka a cyclist’s worst nightmare) for the annual Philadelphia International Championship bike race • Catch a show at Dawson Street Pub • Snag a 21-day aged pub burger with red pepper aioli at the Manayunk Brewery • Unleash your pup at Pretzel Park • Let Dairyland satisfy your late-night ice cream craving

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In addition to a full food menu, Manayunk Brewery features house brews like the Bohemian Blonde and Schuylkill Punch year-round, plus seasonals like Yunkers’ Gold and California Dreamin’. Terrace Taproom 3847 Terrace St., 267-335-3256, terracetaproom.com

YOU SHOULD KNOW … Fourth District City Councilman is Curtis Jones Jr. (215-686-3416). On-street permit parking is relatively spacious in East Falls and Roxborough; a bit more challenging in Manayunk, where pay lots expand the options. All three neighborhoods have Regional Rail stations. They can also be accessed via SEPTA bus lines K, 9, 27, 32, 35, 60, 61 and 65. EXPLORE … BARS + CLUBS Bourbon Blue

The TT combines a neighborhood tappy feel — cheap prices, interesting people-watching — with a righteous beer selection and great specials. RESTAURANTS + MARKETS Adobe Café 4550 Mitchell St., 215-483-3947, adobecafephilly.com

With a second location on East Passyunk, Adobe’s got a good thing going — think inventive décor (holler @ the cow skull) and menu items like steak tips with smoked jalapeno mayo. Chabaa Thai Bistro 4371 Main St., Manayunk, 215-483-1979, chabaathai.com

A little bit French Quarter, a dash of city sophistication and a heavy hand with the Hurricane pours characterize Sean Coyle’s Manayunk hangout.

Manayunk’s Chabaa is neatly decorated with photos from Thailand, but we go for one reason and one reason alone: The hottest Thai dishes in the state.

Kildare’s Irish Pub

Dairyland Ice Cream and Chocolates

4417 Main St., 215-482-7242, kildaresirishpub.com

4409 Main St., 215-482-6806, phillyicecream.com

2 Rector St., 215-508-3660, bourbonblue.com

What’s the craic? This Kildare’s location serves typical pub food plus various renditions of the Boxty, a stuffed Irish potato pancake.

Sells cakes and chocolate-covered strawberries in addition to affordable scoops of flavors like Cookies ’n’ Cream, Peanut Butter Cup Fudge and Birthday Cake.


Derek’s Restaurant

Winnie’s LeBus

4411 Main St., Manayunk, 215-483-9400,

4266 Main St., 215-487-2663, lebusmanayunk.com

dereksrestaurant.com

Winnie’s serves LeBus artisan breads in the morning, house specialties like “Mom’s Meatloaf” in the afternoon and dinner entrees paired with local brews in the evening.

After years serving Californified Italian food at Sonoma, Derek Davis closed and reopened this now-eponymous hot spot with a revamped menu and outdoor cafe seating. Franco’s Trattoria

MUSIC Dawson Street Pub

4116 Ridge Ave., off Kelly Drive, 215-438-4848,

100 Dawson St., 215-482-5677, dawsonstreetpub.com

francostrattoria.net

Having just celebrated 20 years in the business, this Manayunk bar boasts an impressive beer list to complement the live music offered every Thursday, Friday and Saturday.

The food is simple and straightforward, a parade of red-sauced pastas, thin-pounded meats and other South Philly familiars. Jake’s 4365 Main St., Manayunk, 215-483-0444,

ARTS + CULTURE Design Center

jakesrestaurant.com

4200 Henry Ave., 215-951-2979, philau.edu/designcenter

You can always count on Jake’s in Manayunk for a stellar, recognizable meal.

Run by Philadelphia University, the Design Center hosts exhibits and guided tours for the public, plus field trips for students and faculty.

Johnny Manana’s 4201 Ridge Ave., 215-843-0499, johnnymananas.net

With a specialty drinks list as long as its food menu, the South of the Border-reminiscent foodery thrives on buzzy kitsch.

Main Street Music

Vamp Boutique 4231 Main St., 215-487-2340, vampboutique.net

Mee-yow: Vamp features unique women’s clothing and accessories that won’t break the bank. Wag N Style 3734 Midvale Ave., 215-844-7100, wagnstyle.com

A “natural, eco-friendly, high-fasion” pet boutique for your favorite four-legged friends. Worn Yesterday 4228 Main St., 215-482-3316, wornyesterday.com

Gently worn clothing for infants through preteens, plus a maternity section featuring high-end brands at not-so-high-end prices. PARKS + REC Gorgas Park Ridge Avenue and Hermitage Street, gorgaspark.com

Kendrick Recreation Center 5822 Ridge Ave.

Pretzel Park

4444 Main St., 215-487-7732, mainstreetmusicpa.com

Silverwood Street and Cotton Street, friendsofpretzelpark.org

Friendly independent music store selling new and used vinyl, CDs and DVDs.

RowZone

Machismo Burrito Bar

Manayunk Roxborough Art Center

4330 Main St., Manayunk, 215-508-3333,

419 Green Lane, 215-482-3363, mrartcenter.org

Sweat

machismoburritobar.com

Nonprofit center featuring exhibits, classes, workshops and other programs.

The concept is simple at Manayunk’s Machismo: It’s a “build your own” burrito bar that’s both sitdown and takeout-friendly. MangoMoon 4161 Main St., 215-487-1230, mymangomoon.com

The flavors and textures here are as varied as at any other tapas spot in town, and you’ll get a great value. Dinner with drinks should come in below $80 for two. Marketplace at East Falls 3747 Ridge Ave., 215-228-0969, marketplaceateastfalls.com

A Reading Terminal for the Schuylkill set, featuring vendors like Brian’s Best Pastries, King’s Dutch Country Goods and an outpost of DiBruno Bros. Cheese. Shan Chuan 4211 Ridge Ave., 215-844-7889

In a sea of American pub grub, Shan Chuan’s Chinese menu stands out. Thomas’ Restaurant and Bar 4201 Main St., 215-483-9075, thomasrestaurant.com

In 1982, Thomas’ opened on a restaurant- and bar-free Main Street; it’s now surrounded by other options, but Thomas’ boasts nice details like a handmade mahogany bar, and savory treats like pistachio-crusted veal meatballs. Ugly Moose 443 Shurs Lane, 215-482-2739, theuglymoose.com

Order Fried Mooserella, Duck Stickers or the Salmon North by Northwest at this kid-friendly Manayunk eatery.

Old Academy Players

4401 Main St., 215-482-0321, rowzonemanayunk.com 4151 Main St., 215-487-7100, sweatfitness.com

Wissahickon Valley Henry Avenue and Lincoln Drive, fow.org

3544 Indian Queen Lane, 215-843-1109, oldacademyplayers.org

In continuous performance since 1923, the quaint theater produces classics as well as new work. Schuylkill Center for Environmental Education 8480 Hagys Mill Road, 215-482-7300, schuylkillcenter.org

One of the country’s first urban environmentaleducation centers, the Schuylkill Center hosts outdoor sculpture exhibits, trail hikes and other programs, plus a pavilion and amphitheater open to the public year-round. Sherman Mills 3502 Scotts Lane, 215-991-7601, shermanmills.com

Residential, commercial and artist studios located in East Falls, which also host exhibits and other programs. SHOPPING Beans Beauty Supply 4405 Main St., 215-487-3333, beansbeauty.com

Offers makeup, skin and hair care, plus a fragrance selection and men’s section. Benjamin Lovell 4305 Main St., 215-487-3747, benjaminlovell.com

Super-stylish shoes for men and women, from all manner of brands — from UGG and Merrell to Cole Haan and Minnetonka. Bryn Mawr Running Co. 4320 Main St., 215-487-0220, manayunkrunning.com/sportsworks

Everything you’ll need to go as fast as your two feet will take you. WWW.CITYPAPER.NET

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photo by Neal Santos

THE HOODS

Wine Thief 7152 Germantown Ave., 215-242-6700, winethiefbistro.com

CHESTNUT HILL/MOUNT AIRY/GERMANTOWN STILL THE CITY; 50 PERCENT LESS GRITTY. Chestnut Hill, Mount Airy and Germantown are bounded by Stenton Avenue on the east and the Wissahickon Creek on the west, and centered on Germantown Avenue. Chestnut Hill begins at the northern tip-top of the city limits and runs down to Cresheim Valley Road; Mount Airy picks up where Chestnut Hill left off, extending to Washington Lane; and Germantown brings us on home at Wister Avenue. Green space — we’re talking tree-lined avenues, lush parks, actual backyards with actual grass — is abundant here, as is the quaint feeling one gets when escaping the concrete jungle that is Philadelphia. But never fear: You are actually still within city limits, and Center City is just a quick regional rail trip away should you get sick of all the serenity. WHILE YOU’RE HERE … • Food shop without carbon-footprint guilt at Weavers Way’s newest, brightest-shining star in Chestnut Hill • Play beer critic and sample each of Earth Bread + Brewery’s latest concoctions • Host a garden party at the Morris Arboretum, treehouse-style • Take a beginner aerials class at the Philadelphia School of Circus Arts

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• Get cozy with your favorite novel at the Big Blue Marble Bookstore YOU SHOULD KNOW … Accessible via the R7 Chestnut Hill East and R8 Chestnut Hill West lines; the 23 bus runs along Germantown Avenue. Parking is mostly on the street and free. City Councilwoman Donna Reed Miller represents the Eighth District 215-6863424); the Germantown Avenue Coalition gtownave.com) promotes businesses and events along the Ave in all three neighborhoods. EXPLORE … BARS + CLUBS Earth Bread + Brewery 7136 Germantown Ave., 215-242-MOON,

Chris Simpson opened this wine-savvy bar and bistro, where the vino list is extensive but price markups are minimal. RESTAURANTS + MARKETS Avenida 7402 Germantown Ave., 267-385-6857, avenidarestaurant.com

Avenida is a fam-friendly eatery serving dishes like pork pibil in a green mole; pepita- and pistachio-crusted tuna; ancho chili-dusted duck; and achiote-grilled shrimp. Bredenbeck’s 8126 Germantown Ave., 215-247-7374, bredenbecks.com

Serving baked goods in the heart of Chestnut Hill since 1889. Cafette 8136 Ardleigh St., 215-242-4220, cafette.com

Chestnut Hill’s house-cum-restaurant offers a peaceful dining experience in its tranquil country garden, where emphasis is placed on fresh, seasonal ingredients. Cake 8501 Germantown Ave., 215-247-6887

Enough kettles and urns to serve up a changing roster of four housemade beers at a time.

Open all day for sweets, Grey Heck’s Cake Bakery also offers lunch and breakfast hours on weekdays and brunch on weekends.

McNally’s Tavern

Chestnut Hill Cheese Shop

earthbreadbrewery.com

8634 Germantown Ave., 215-247-9736

McNally’s Tavern in Chestnut Hill is famous for its signature creation: a bastardized cheesesteak known as the Schmitter.

8509 Germantown Ave., 215-242-2211, chcheeseshop.com

For the past 45 years, the Chestnut Hill Cheese Shop has offered a wide variety of cheeses, plus gourmet coffee, chocolate, caviar and more.


CinCin

Reuben’s Marc

Wyck Historic House

7838 Germantown Ave., 215-242-8800, cincinrestaurant.com

8131 Stenton Ave., 215-247-1606

6026 Germantown Ave., 215-848-1690, wyck.org

Chinese and pan-Asian offerings include a shrimp and chicken seaweed roll with soywasabi sauce and roasted brandy-hoisin-glazed Norwegian salmon.

Live jazz has become a fixture at this neighborhood bar.

The verdant acreage around this colonial mansion boasts colorful gardens, a working farm and a bustling farmers market.

¡Cuba!

8117 Germantown Ave., 215-248-2549,

SHOPPING Chestnut Hill Bootery

8609 Germantown Ave., 215-967-1477,

chestnuthillgallery.com

8511 Germantown Ave., 215-247-0518

mycubanrestaurant.com

Joseph Borrelli and Suzanne Sheeder make space on their walls for established artists and up-andcomers. Doubles as a framing shop.

Shoes, part functional, part funky.

Mount Airy Art Garage

Independently owned, the Marble caters to niches: kids books, enviro bibles, feminist science fiction, etc.

¡Cuba! is thankfully understated — it delivers an authentic slice of the island’s flavors in a pleasant, universal setting. Geechee Girl Rice Cafe 6825 Germantown Ave., 215-843-8113, geecheegirlricecafe.com

Cozy and bright, Geechee’s is like a small-town eatery where rice is a delicacy and vegetarian dishes abound. The emphasis here is on Southern cooking, although the menu features many an international option. InFusion: A Coffee and Tea Gallery 7133 Germantown Ave., 215-248-1718, infusioncoffeeandtea.com

Coffee, tea, poetry readings and art exhibits are all part of the scene at the mellow, relaxed InFusion. Tiffin 7105 Emlen St., 215-242-3656, tiffin.com

Aside from a small 28-seat dining room, this Mount Airy Tiffin satellite delivers perfectly proportioned boxed lunches and dinners to Philadelphia’s hungry, curry-craving work force. Trolley Car & Diner 7619 Germantown Ave., 215-753-1500, trolleycardiner.com

Leave it to the Trolley to craft fluffy, gooey, perfectly cooked omelettes. Even the home fries are bangin’.

ARTS + CULTURE Chestnut Hill Gallery

542 W. Carpenter Lane, 215-247-5309, mtairyartgarage.org

Besides its permanent exhibition space, MAAG rents out studios and encourages collaboration. Just earned nonprofit status in April, 2010.

Big Blue Marble Bookstore 551 Carpenter Lane, 215-844-1870, bigbluemarblebooks.com

Hideaway Music 8612 Germantown Ave., 215-248-4434

Philadelphia School of Circus Arts

A friendly place to buy used records.

5900A Greene St., 215-849-1991, phillycircus.com

PARKS + REC Allens Lane Art Center

Take classes in juggling, unicycling, acrobatics — just about everything under the big top. A clownfree zone. The Stagecrafters Theater 8130 Germantown Ave., 215-247-8881, thestagecrafters.org

A theatrical mainstay going on 80 years. Woodmere Art Museum 9201 Germantown Ave., 215-247-0476,

601 W. Allens Lane, 215-248-0546, allenslane.org

Awbury Arboretum 1 Awbury Road, 215-849-2855, awbury.org

Morris Arboretum 100 E. Northwestern Ave., 215-247-5777, morrisarboretum.org

woodmereartmuseum.org

This ginormous Victorian mansion hosts handson workshops and some surprisingly daring painting exhibitions.

Morris Arboretum

Go Out on a Limb with Tree Adventure

Umbria 7131 Germantown Ave., 215-242-6470

A cheery little restaurant hugging the outskirts of Chestnut Hill, Umbria has been around for a while, dispensing the kind of food we used to call “continental.” Fresh veggies, spirited combinations and extremely pleasant service merit return visits. Weavers Way Co-Op 559 Carpenter Lane and 8424 Germantown Ave., 215-843-2350, weaversway.coop

These two neighboring locations of Weavers Way offer fresh produce and other grocery items, with a discount for members of the co-op. MUSIC The Mermaid Inn 7673 Winston Road, 215-247-9797, themermaidinn.net

Mostly local acts play this Chestnut Hill barand-restaurant combo nearly every night of the week. Patrons can show off their musical talents at regularly scheduled jam sessions.

Experience trees as you never have before from �fty feet up, at Morris Arboretum in Chestnut Hill. 92 acres to explore, just minutes from Center City. Discover colorful gardens, secret places, and some of the oldest and rarest trees in the area. Morris Arboretum— the perfect escape into nature. 215.247.5777 www.morrisarboretum.org 100 East Northwestern Avenue • Philadelphia


photos by Neal Santos

THE HOODS

FAIRMOUNT/ART MUSEUM TAKE A PICTURE — IT’LL LAST LONGER. Fairmount (known to realtors as the “Art Museum area”), like many gentrifying neighborhoods, has evolving boundaries. For now, let’s say it’s north of western Center City, bound by Spring Garden to the south, Girard to the north, 19th street to the east and Fairmount Park to the west. Within these borders you’ll find a mostly residential neighborhood whose appeal comes from tree-lined streets and proximity to the famed Philadelphia Museum of Art.

YOU SHOULD KNOW … The 7, 32, 48 and 33 bus routes run through the neighborhood, as does the 15 Trolley. Street parking is mostly free, though spots can be hard to come by and certain streets require permits. The Fifth District City Councilman is Darrell Clarke (215-686-3442).

WHILE YOU’RE HERE … • Order whatever’s on the hand pump at Brigid’s House • Do your best Thinker impression at the Rodin Museum • Arrive early enough to snag an extremely bird’seye view of the stage at neighborhood rock club North Star Bar • Go biking on Kelly Drive and practice shouting “on your left!” to slowpoke pedestrians • Once — just once — run up those Art Museum steps, fists pumping, Rocky swagger fully channeled

2047 Green St., 215-235-3500, thebelgiancafe.com

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CITYPAPER PRIMER 2010 - 2011

EXPLORE … BARS + CLUBS The Belgian Café There are more than 200 beers by the bottle, and draft choices are available in smaller glasses as well as pints, so you can actually drink a top-notch brew for $3. Bishop’s Collar 2349 Fairmount Ave., 215-765-1616, thebishopscollar.ypguides.net

A lively Fairmount bar named after the expression for a poorly poured pint of Guinness (they pull a mean one here).

Bridgid’s 726 N. 24th St., 215-232-3232, bridgids.com

Sidle up to the bar at the city’s most idiosyncratic neighborhood tappy for their all-day chili special, paired best with one of Brigid’s numerous Belgians. Kite and Key 1836 Callowhill St., 215-568-1818, thekiteandkey.com

The 1800 block of Callowhill is fast becoming a goto strip for reliably good eats — now you can satisfy a parallel need for craft beer and local sports at the Kite & Key. St. Stephen’s Green 1701 Green St., 215-769-5000, saintstephensgreen.com

Philly’s got plenty of great places to spend your boozin’ dollars, but St. Stephen’s Green should end up on your short list. RESTAURANTS + MARKETS Angelino’s Restaurant and Pizzeria 849-51 N. 25th St., 215-787-9945

What could have fit better at the corner of 25th and Parrish than Angelino’s? The block is clean and well lit, and you gotta try the chicken parm. Jack’s Firehouse 2130 Fairmount Ave., 215-232-9000, jacksfirehouse.com

If you’re wrestling hunger pangs, sidle up for Jack’s lip-smackin’ ribs with firehouse fries or North Carolina-style crab cakes.


London Grill

Franklin Institute

2301 Fairmount Ave., 215-978-4545, londongrill.com

222 N. 20th St., 215-448-1200, fi .edu

A friendly neighborhood institution and gathering place with a splendid bar (not to mention an inventive menu).

Named after our favorite inventor, the Franklin Institute includes an IMAX theater, which hosts a slew of high-flying, big-screen ordeals alongside the latest blockbusters.

Mugshots 2100 Fairmount Ave., 267-514-7145,

Free Library, Central Branch

mugshotscoffeehouse.com

1901 Vine St., 215-686-5322, freelibrary.org

Mugshots has attracted a steady following for its comfortable atmosphere, healthy vegan and organic menu items and socially conscious coffee sourcing.

The Free Library’s main branch is the largest in its 54-library system. Along with offering an impressive selection of books, the library plays a central role in the community by offering various classes and events as well as hosting worldrenowned authors such as David Eggers and Jonathan Franzen.

Rembrandt’s 741 N. 23rd St., 215-763-2228, rembrandts.com

There’s a popular, old-fashioned bar here that is quite a neighborhood gathering place, but we can’t overlook the cozy dining room, with its imported stained glass windows and Rembrandt prints on the walls. Rose Tattoo Café 1847 Callowhill St., 215-569-8939, rosetattoocafe.com

The food here is simply delicious, an American blend of Cajun and Creole, always fresh and always creatively prepared. Sabrina’s Cafe & Spencer’s Too 1802 Callowhill St., 215-636-9061, sabrinascafe.com

This outpost of Sabrina’s Café, located in an old Callowhill Street diner, is just as good as the original and seemingly twice as big. MUSIC The Great Stair Hall Philadelphia Museum of Art, 2600 Ben Franklin Parkway, 215-684-7506, philamuseum.org

The Art Museum hosts performances by out-oftown and Philly-based acts as part of its “Art After 5” program held every Friday night throughout the year. North Star Bar 2639 Poplar St., 215-787-0488, northstarbar.com

This Fairmount bar features everything from jazz to punk to 25-cent wings during happy hour in an intimate space. ARTS + CULTURE Academy of Natural Sciences 1900 Ben Franklin Parkway, 215-299-1000, ansp.org

For your inner child (or actual offspring), the Academy of Natural Sciences serves up the ooh-and-aah-worthy features of science class in colorful exhibits. Check out the permanent exhibits of dinosaur fossils and butterflies, or keep an ear out for revolving shows about sea creatures and creepy-crawlies. Eastern State Penitentiary 2124 Fairmount Ave., 215-236-5111, easternstate.org

The Quaker-style prison that once housed more than 300 convicts (including Al Capone!) now opens its doors to thrill-seeking tourists. Walk through the sprawling 19th-century building while listening to a Steve Buscemi-voiced audio tour for extra creepiness.

Galleries at Moore College of Art & Design 20th and Ben Franklin Parkway, 215-965-4027, thegalleriesatmoore.org

You’ve probably seen oh-so-indie art students of Moore College wandering around the Parkway and wondered just what they’re really up to. Find answers at the Galleries at Moore, which display student work as well as the art of local and international artists. Miro Dance Theatre Girard College No. 160, 215-962-4773, mirodancetheatre.org

Miro Dance Theatre is a unique blend of contemporary dance and visual artistry. The company performs worldwide, and the studio plays host to dance classes for beginners and master dancers alike. Philadelphia Museum of Art 2600 Ben Franklin Parkway,215-763-8100, philamuseum.org

Race up the staircase to the Philadelphia Museum of Art’s ever-expanding galleries: The first art museum in the country, our local treasure contains enough Renaissance, contemporary and international art to keep locals coming back for more.

Bookhaven 2202 Fairmount Ave., 215-235-3226

Bookhaven sidles up under the shadow of the Free Library’s Central Branch, snatching up used books and providing a cozier environment for lazy Sunday reading. Fairmount Pet Shoppe 2024 Fairmount Ave., 215-236-6080, fairmountpetshoppe

This animal-centric store sells specialty products for discerning pets and their owners — and the kittens in the window are just so darn cute! PARKS + REC Fairmount Park 215-988-9334, fairmountpark.org

Rodin Museum 22nd Street and Ben Franklin Parkway, 215-568-6026, rodinmuseum.org

This open-air gem features tons of sculptures by the prolific French artist in a garden setting. Wine School of Philadelphia 2008 Fairmount Ave., 800-817-7351, ext. 2, vinology.com

While we may live under the archaic liquor laws of our Quaker ancestors, the Wine School of Philadelphia wants you to fully appreciate the wine you’re able to get your hands on. The offered courses and certificate programs are not for the curious dabbler — they’re aimed at serious connoisseurs and professionals. SHOPPING Ali’s Wagon 2017 Fairmount Ave., 215-787-0611, aliswagon.com

In family-friendly Fairmount, Ali’s Wagon offers shoppers quaint homewares, bath and body products, and toys for the tots.

WWW.CITYPAER.NET

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photos by Neal Santos

THE HOODS

R.U.B.A. Hall 414 Green St., 215-627-9831

Join the Russian Ukrainian Boating Association (aka R.U.B.A.) for access to cheap beer, free pool and the privilege to stay out until 3 a.m. on a Sunday. Membership is $20 a year.

NORTHERN LIBERTIES

Silk City 435 Spring Garden St., 215-592-8838, silkcityphilly.com

The NoLibs restaurant serves updated diner food with a slew of local DJ talent and live hip-hop acts.

WHERE DO ALL THE HIPSTERS MEET? A sleek pilot fish living quietly above the bloated shark of Center City, Northern Liberties is situated north of Old City, with Callowhill Street acting as the border between the two. Girard Avenue to the north, Sixth Street to the west and the Delaware River complete the perimeter. Thanks to the still-feels-new Piazza at Schmidts (which houses boutique/gallery hybrids, groceries, bars and restaurants, plus a ton of high-end condos overlooking the bustling center meetingplace), NoLibs property values are skyrocketing — and everyone still agrees it’s a good thing. WHILE YOU’RE HERE … • Get multicultural and try the enfrijoladas at Jewish soul food brunch haven Honey’s Sit ‘N Eat • Order every local draft you see on tap at the Standard Tap • Eat a tater tot every time you bowl a strike at North Bowl • Cheer on your favorite local sports team (the Phillies!) at the Piazza at Schmidts’ big screen • Hit up Bambi Gallery during First Friday festivities — you’re bound to find something magically weird 72

CITYPAPER PRIMER 2010 - 2011

YOU SHOULD KNOW … Travel within NoLibs via the Market-Frankford El or the east-west Girard Avenue Trolley. Parking can be challenging late in the evening. Best bet is to make like the NoLibertarians and ride a bike. Trophy Bike Garage (1040 N. American St., 215592-1234, trophybikegarage.com) is open seven days a week. Check out neighborhood message board northernliberties.org for FAQs, local gossip and links to your First District City Councilman, Frank DiCiccio (215-686-3458). EXPLORE … BARS + CLUBS 700 Club 700 N. Second St., 215-413-3181

Stay downstairs for the bar, or climb the steps to soak in an unusual dancefloor atmosphere complete with DJ booth/bathtub. Abbaye 637 N. Third St., 215-627-6711

The vibe here is homey and welcoming; so, too, are its kindly bartenders.

The Swift Half The Piazza at Schmidts, 1001 N. Second St., 215-923-4600, swifthalfpub.com.

They do 10 brews on tap (five of which rotate regularly) with a focus on local offerings. Most of the charcuterie is cured in-house, and there’s a multitude of vegetarian options. The Standard Tap 901 N. Second St., 215-238-0630, standardtap.com

The gold standard of the gastropub, the Standard Tap’s constantly changing chalkboard menus and all-local, all-draft beer selection pack in the local Libertines. RESTAURANTS + MARKETS 1 Shot Coffee Liberties Walk, 1040 N. Second St., 215-627-1620, myspace.com/1shotcoffee

The cozy 25-seat 1 Shot appeals to both artsy types and antsy work-from-homers. Almanac Market 900 N. Fourth St., 215-625-6611, almanacmarket.com

A neighborhood favorite for produce and locally sourced grocery items, Almanac procures items through the Lancaster FarmFresh Co-Op.


THE HOODS: NORTHERN LIBERTIES Arbol Cafe 209 Poplar St., 215-284-5788, arbolcafe.com

For an intro to Paraguayan cuisine, look to Arbol CafĂŠâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s lomito, which bears a resemblance to a decked-out Philly cheesesteak. Bar Ferdinand 1030 N. Second St., 215-923-1313, barferdinand.com

The food here is straight, beautifully crafted tapas â&#x20AC;&#x201D; hot and cold salads, bocadillos and pinchos. Brown Betty Dessert Boutique 1030 N. Second St., 215-629-0999, brownbettydesserts.com

This mother-daughter operation churns out killer cupcakes, dreamy pies and a host of other thighthickening treats. CafĂŠ Estelle 444 N. Fourth St., 215-925-5080, cafeestelle.com

Cafe Estelle is aww-inspiring: Marshall Green has cute on lock, from the vintage cookbook pages under the table glass to the harvest pie on the dessert menu. Estelle is worth searching out. The Foodery 837 North Second St. 215-238-6077, fooderybeer.com

The roomier northern outpost of Pine Streetâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s iconic beer bottle shop; choose from a jaw-dropping array of domestic and imported beer, available by the bottle, six pack or mixed six. Dmitriâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s

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P.Y.T. The Piazza at Schmidts, 1050 N. Hancock St., 215-964-9909, pytphilly.com

P.Y.T. is PaperStreet promoter Tommy Upâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s lively burger and shake lounge, complete with $10 â&#x20AC;&#x153;adultshakesâ&#x20AC;? (milkshakes imbued with booze). Rustica Pizza 903 N. Second St., 215-627-1393, rusticaphilly.com

While you end up paying more than you would at other shops, Rusticaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s superior ingredients form one magniďŹ cent chicken cheesesteak. Spring Garden Market 400 Spring Garden St., 215-928-1288

Youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll see it all in these aisles â&#x20AC;&#x201D; mock duck and abalone, insta noodle bowls, pre-packed dumplings, Mikawaya ice cream, bizarro-world Lotte candies â&#x20AC;Ś we could go on. Tiffin 710 W. Girard Ave., 215-922-1297, tiffin.com

This Northern Liberties-based service makes fast, inexpensive and light Indian food. Online or by phone, customers can order box meals of two entrĂŠes, dal, raita and pickles. MUSIC Electric Factory 421 N. Seventh St., 215-627-1332, livenation.com

Dmitri Chimes, who owns long-successful restaurants in Queen Village and Fitler Square, is now in NoLibs with Dmitriâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s No. 3.

Fans donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t seem to mind that the converted electric factory is sweaty and, save for a few seated sections, standing-room-only â&#x20AC;&#x201D; â&#x20AC;&#x2122;cause big-name acts sound just as good without a chair.

El Camino Real

The Fire

1040 N. Second St., 215-925-1110, bbqburritobar.com

412 W. Girard Ave., 267-671-9298, iourecords.com/theďŹ re

The restaurant celebrates food from both sides of the Tex-Mex border, and thus there are two separate but equally hunger-inducing menus on offer here.

Up-and-comers from all genres win over Philly fans at this NoLibs dive bar.

Honeyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Sit â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;N Eat

1001-13 N. Second St., 267-319-1371, bambiproject.com

944 N. Second St., 215-592-4550

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covers a decent stretch of territory, from Guatemalan ilachitas to Cubano sandwiches.

800 N. Fourth St., 215-925-1150, honeys-restaurant.com

This NoLibs brunch spot serves Jewish home cooking with a sweet Southern drawl. Koo Zee Doo 614 N. Second St., 215-924-8080, koozeedoo.com

David Gilberg and Carla Goncalves are working with traditional Portuguese recipes/ingredients at their NoLibs BYO, but they employ a few ďŹ nedining techniques to make it their own. N. 3rd

ARTS + CULTURE Bambi Gallery Piazza at Schmidts Second and Germantown avenues, 215-467-4603, atthepiazza.com

Pure Gold Gallery 1050 N. Hancock St., Suite 57, puregoldgallery.wordpress.com

Projects Gallery 629 N. Second St., 267-303-9652, projectsgallery.com

The Toothless Cat Gallery

801 N. Third St., 215-413-3666, norththird.com

1050 N. Hancock St., 267-319-1782, thetoothlesscat.com

N. 3rdâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s dim interior, dotted with skulls, shamrocks and racy paintings, is the perfect accompaniment to the kitchenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s eclectic eats. Drink-wise, consider the on-tap selection of local and imported beers, the variety of 25-ounce Belgian bottles or something sweet from the specialty cocktail list.

Vincent Michael Gallery

Pura Vida

Owner Amber Lynn Thompsonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s space is hot pink, covered in scary/lovely T-shirts, jewelry and visual art, and crazy in a good way, just like Thompson herself.

527 Fairmount Ave., 215-922-6433

Pan-Latin in approach, Pura Vidaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s short menu

1050 N. Hancock St., 215-399-1580, vincentmichael.com

SHOPPING Amberella Sugary Sweet Gallery & Boutique 1050 N. Hancock St., Suite 62, 610-283-5669, amberellagallery.com


Arcadia Boutique 819 N. Second St., 215-667-8099, arcadiaboutique.com

Organic cotton tees, carefully selected vintage pieces and plenty of socially conscious housewares and accessories mingle among pieces by designers such as Mel en Stel, Rich & Skinny and Ben Sherman at this eco-friendly boutique for guys and dolls. Architectural Antiques Exchange 715 N. Second St., 215-922-3669, architecturalantiques.com

A three-ďŹ&#x201A;oor wonderland of extremely old-school furniture, iron work, stained glass, doors, full wooden pub bars and more. Art Star 623 N. Second St., 215-238-1557, artstarphilly.com

If you canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t get enough of their jewelry, dresses, ceramics, playthings, menswear, art tees and baby clothing, this NoLibs DIY haven also hosts a wicked annual craft bazaar. Chez Bow Wow 1040 N. Second St., 215-923-2992, chezbowwow.com

The only one who deserves to be pampered more than you â&#x20AC;Ś is your dog. Chez Bow Wow specializes in hair cutting, teeth cleaning, nail clipping, gland expression and more. Delicious Boutique and Corseterie 1040 N. American Suite St., No. 901, 215-413-0375; 1050 N. Hancock St., Suite 74, 267-318-7402; deliciousboutique.com

If youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re not quite ready to lace it up, this circusthemed boutique (which now boasts two locations) also carries menâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s and womenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s clothing, jewelry and accessories with a vampy wink. Mode Moderne 159 N. Third St., 215-627-0299, modemoderne.com

Clean ONE NOW, or BOTH LATERâ&#x20AC;Ś this oneâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s cheaper

This shop focuses on mid-century furniture, but also sells pottery and vintage items. Oma Vintage 716 N. Third St., 267-687-5959, omavintage.com

The new kid on the NoLibs block is owned by precocious Ada Egloff, who picks through the best vintage and local designers so you donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t have to. R.E.Load Baggage 608 N. Second St., 215-922-2018, reloadbags.com

For more than a decade, R.E.Load has been equipping messengers (and those of us who just like their gear) with crazy durable, crazy stylish handmade bags. PARKS + REC Liberty Lands N. Third and Wildey streets, 215-627-6562, nlna.org

North Bowl 909 N. Second St., 215-238-2695, northbowlphilly.com

North Bowlâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s snacky take on the classic grilled cheese makes it the perfect ďŹ nger food for a night at the lanes.

WE PICK UP AND DROP OFF TOO!

Call 215-923-2992 . www.chezbowwow.com 1040 North 2nd Street. Philadelphia, PA 19123

Orianna Hill Dog Park 9013 N. Orianna St., oriannahill.org

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photo by Neal Santos

THE HOODS

a neighborhood staple. If you’d like more options, give Fifth District Councilman Darrell L. Clarke a call (215-686-3442). EXPLORE … RESTAURANTS + BARS Draught Horse Pub

NORTH PHILLY UP, UP AND AWAY North Philly is home to Temple University, kaleidoscopic murals everywhere and a barrio full of delish Latin-Caribbean food and culture. But — it’s true — it also suffers from heartbreaking poverty and crime. You should visit anyway. And to make things simple, we’ll just say North Philly is everything in between Girard Avenue and Roosevelt Boulevard, Front Street and the Schuylkill, OK?

ARTS + CULTURE Arts Garage 1533 Ridge Ave., 215-765-2702, theartsgarage.com

Host a birthday party, watch a movie, listen to jazz or get your dance on at this entertainment venue.

1431 Cecil B. Moore Ave., 215-235-1010,

Centro Nueva Creacion

draughthorse.com

185 W. Tioga St., 215-426-8762, goodlands.org

Located on Temple’s campus, the Draught Horse features wine, cocktails, beer drinks and even a selection of specialty shots.

The CNC hosts The Goodlands, a beautification project where kids clean up their neighborhoods through mural arts, gardening and photography.

Isla Verde

Freedom Theatre

2725 N. American St., 215-426-3600, islaverdecafe.com

1346 N. Broad St., 215-765-2793, freedomtheatre.org

Expect modern pan-Latin cuisine with some Italian flourishes.

Pennsylvania’s oldest African-American theater has a reputation for powerful productions such as the annual Black Nativity.

Osteria 640 N. Broad St., 215-763-0920, osteriaphilly.com

Italian food fans need to check out Marc Vetri’s second eatery, where incredible wood-fired pizzas rule the day. Porky’s Point

WHILE YOU’RE HERE … • Have a wood-fire blistered pizza at Marc Vetri’s Osteria • Take in a show at the Freedom Theater • Visit the crossroads of science and history at the Wagner Free Institute of Science • Holy frijoles! Get your Cuban/Colombian grub on at Tierra Colombiana

3824 N. Fifth St., 215-221-6243

YOU SHOULD KNOW … Parking isn’t bad here except on Broad Street, and public transit will get you places: The Broad Street subway line travels to Hunting Park, Girard Avenue and Temple; the Route 15 trolley goes up and down Girard Avenue; and the Route 3 bus is

Tierra Colombiana

The specialty here is one of the simplest and most satisfying Puerto Rican dishes: the roast pork sandwich. Pub Webb 1527 Cecil B. Moore Ave., 267-687-8256, pubwebb.com

The Temple U campus bar features upscale bar eats like steamer clams and Cuban sliders. 4535-37 N. Fifth St., 215-324-0303, tierrarestaurante.com

This North Philly social and culinary nexus offers Cuban and Colombian cooking.

Wagner Free Institute of Science of Philadelphia 1700 W. Montgomery Ave., 215-763-6529, wagnerfreeinstitute.org

“Free science education for the people of Philadelphia” is the Wagner’s motto. PARKS + REC Hunting Park Recreation Center Ninth Street and W. Hunting Park Avenue, 215-685-9153

Laurel Hill Cemetery 3822 Ridge Ave., 215-228-8200, theundergroundmuseum.org

Mann Recreation Center 3201 N. Fifth St.

Woodford Mansion 2300 N 33rd St., 215-229-6115, woodfordmansion.org

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photo by Neal Santos

THE HOODS

Fishtown’s cash-poor but taste-rich artistic types. And, with deals like the $3 citywide special (a can of PBR and a shot of Jim Beam), the clientele is loyal. Bonk’s Bar 3467 Richmond St., 215-634-9927

PORT FISHINGTON

Squatting on Richmond Street like an armadillo in neon eyeliner, Bonk’s is a Port Richmond watering hole well-known for its exceptional blue crabs in “Bonk’s Juice.”

THREE HOUSES, ALIKE IN DIGNITY. If you live in Port Richmond, Fishtown or Kensington, the very idea of “Port Fishington” might be heresy: Each neighborhood has its own distinct identity. Still, the old ’hoods along the Delaware (and roughly bordered by the Market-Frankford line to the northwest) were built alongside Philadelphia’s once-booming industry, which have seen hard times in recent decades — but have managed to stick it out anyway. Nowadays you can’t walk a block of Fishtown without running into a craft beer bar, art gallery or live music mecca; continue on to Kensington and you’ll find experimental performing and visual arts venues (like Mascher Space Co-Op and FLUXspace) sprouting like wildfire; and if you make it all the way up to Port Richmond, expect a heavily residential ’hood where gentrification hasn’t crept up quite so quickly. WHILE YOU’RE HERE … • Bring your husband and four children to Jovan’s Place and order one beef goulash; there will be leftovers

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The El Bar • Stroll the Frankford Avenue Corridor on First Friday • Join a CSA at Greensgrow Farm • Take a tour at Philadelphia Brewing Co., then take the party down the street to Atlantis: The Lost Bar • Build a bike-operated float and compete in the Kensington Kinetic Sculpture Derby YOU SHOULD KNOW … The next time your friends whine about how far away Port Fishington is, direct them to the Market-Frankford line. The 5 is a precious little bus, running from Old City through NoLibs and up Frankford Avenue. The 25 goes along Aramingo. Councilmen are Frank DiCicco, First District (215-686-3458); Joan Krajewsky, Sixth (215-6863444) and Darrell Clarke, Fifth (215-686-3442). EXPLORE … BARS + CLUBS Atlantis: The Lost Bar 2442 Frankford Ave., 215-739-4929

The prices at Atlantis make the bar attractive to

1356 N. Front St., 215-634-6430, myspace.com/the_el_bar

This longtime member of Fishtown’s music scene is located directly below a section of the MarketFrankford line and hosts performances by local rock acts. Kraftwork 541 E. Girard Ave., 215-739-1700, kraftworkbar.com

Fishtown newbie Kraftwork is a serious beer bar offering a lineup of 24 all-draft craft beers (one on cask), plus a small wine list and a few cocktails conceived by local mixologist Christian Gaal. Memphis Taproom 2331 E. Cumberland St., 215-425-4460, memphistaproom.com

The mood at this Fishtown gastropub is gleeful — probably because everyone working here knows they have a winner. Expect plentiful craft brews and crazy-good bar food (read: fried pickles). RESTAURANTS + MARKETS Greensgrow Farm 2501 E. Cumberland St., 215-427-2702, greensgrow.org

A locavore’s dream come true, this Fishtown mainstay sells all sorts of plantables in the summer and


Christmas trees in the winter; Greensgrow is also a one-stop farmers market shop in peak season, and hosts a CSA (community supported agriculture) year-round. Ida Mae’s Bruncherie 2302 E. Norris St., 215-426-4209, idamaesbruncherie.com

Between the menu and the specials board, you can find your standard syrupy fare with an emphasis on fresh local produce.

Kung Fu Necktie

Project Basho

1248 N. Front St., 215-291-4919, kungfunecktie.com

1305 Germantown Ave., 215-238-0928, projectbasho.org

The relative newbie on the Fishtown music scene features rock and indie acts, and sets itself apart by squeezing a gallery upstairs. The Manhattan Room 15 W. Girard Ave., 215-739-5577, themanhattanroom.com

This cozy Fishtown space hosts shows by local booking company Village Green Productions.

Jovan’s Place

The Ox

2327 E. York St., 215-634-3330, jovansplace.com

1652 N. Second St., myspace.com/theoxphiladelphia

Much like the hospitality, the food at this Kensington spot is honest and transparent — generous, rustic plates you’ll be reminiscing about long after you’ve enjoyed them. The chicken noodle soup is so purifying you’ll want to fake a cold to score another bowl. The schnitzel is to die for. And even the most gluttonous eater will need help polishing off the peppery beef goulash.

This Kensington art space/warehouse/music venue’s MySpace tagline may be “Our toilets suck,” but the bands who play here certainly don’t: Expect Pissed Jeans, Screaming Females and Home Blitz this fall.

Marian’s Bakery 2615 E. Allegheny Ave., 215-634-4579

Since 1959, Port Richmond’s Polish population has been lining up outside Marian’s for a hit of the sweet stuff: cheese babka and makowiec, a poppyseed swirl cake rolled up with or without walnuts. Wit! Rocket Cat Café 2001 Frankford Ave., 215-739-4526, myspace.com/therocketcatcafe

If you chugged too much Surge when you were 11 and are now immune to caffeine, Rocket Cat’s Thai iced coffee is for you. Tacconelli’s Pizzeria 2604 E. Somerset St., 215-425-4983, tacconellispizzeria.com

The dining room at this Port Richmond mainstay is modest, decorated with sunflowers and stainedglass windows. Pizzas are served with paper plates and napkins. And the only items on their menu are toppings. Still, Tacconelli’s pizzas are in such high demand that they advise reserving dough at least a day in advance. Whipped Bakeshop 636 Belgrade St., 215-598-5449, whippedbakeshop.com

Master bakestress Zoë Lukas, who began running her custom cookie/cake/cupcake business off the Web, finally has a storefront to call home. Look for a rotating selection of cupcakes and “cake cups,” which are exactly what they sound like.

ARTS + CULTURE 2424 Studios 2424 E. York St., 215-925-7676, 2424studios.com

Crane Arts 1400 N. American St., 215-232-3203, cranearts.com

This huge historic building houses four floors of artist studios and is home to InLiquid, Nexus, Claymobile and Gallery 201. Its accompanying Ice Box project space is rented out annually for Fringe and Live Arts festival performances and craft shows like InLiquid’s Art for the Cash Poor. Extra Extra 2222 Sepviva St., 240-277-5457, eexxttrraa.com

This Kensington arts space supports under-represtented artists in both visual and performing arts fields, focusing on “new interpretations of sculpture, installation and performance, in whatever forms they may take.” FLUXspace 3000 N. Hope St., thefluxspace.org

Hosting exhibits, experimental performing art and multidisclipinary events, this Kensington collective pushes the envelope in terms of concept and execution. Germ Books + Gallery

Well-respected national and local acts play the Fishtown landmark that once was a 19th-century theater.

In addition to hosting gallery events, Pterodactyl is Kensington’s hot spot for community art classes — from animal sculpture to food preservation. Walking Fish Theatre 2509 Frankford Ave., 215-427-WALK, walkingfishtheatre.com

This Fishtown space created by B.Someday Productions hosts standup comedy, theater, burlesque workshops, dance and yoga as well as private events. SHOPPING Circle Thrift 2233 Frankford Ave., 215-423-5060, circlethrift.com

The Fishtown outpost of this thrift-shop network is stocked with already-loved, furniture, books, records and vintage clothing. Port Richmond Books 3037 Richmond St., 215-425-3385, portrichmondbooks.com

Epic in scale and variety, Port Richmond Books is worth the trek. ReStore 3016 E. Thompson St., 215-634-3474, re-store-online.com

An architectural salvage retail shop that carries everything from doors and window frames to castiron floor vents and, yes, even kitchen sinks. Reverie 205 W. Girard Ave., 215-769-2302, reverievintage.com

The Girard vintage stop skips the novelty tees for a more sophisticated, great-aunt brand of old school, making for plenty of sweet pumps, dainty bags and mismatched china. PARKS + REC Fishtown Recreation Center 1202 E. Montgomery Ave., 215-685-9885, fishtown.us

Penn Treaty Park penntreatypark.org

Philadelphia Fight Factory

Highwire Gallery

2220 E. Susquehanna Ave., 215-427-1144,

2040 Frankford Ave., 215-426-2685,

philafightfactory.com

kenbmiller.com/highwire

Mascher Space Co-op

1201 N. Frankford Ave., 215-739-9684, johhnybrendas.com

3237 Amber St., 215-501-7158, pterodactylphiladelphia.org

1341 N. Delaware Ave.,

951 Frankford Ave., 215-634-7400,

Johnny Brenda’s

Pterodactyl

Doubling as an art space and bookstore, Germ supports everything alt in both capacities.

Little Berlin

At this Fishtown bar venue, R5 Productions hosts all-ages acts and DJs rock the crowd with a silver curtain behind and mirror ball above.

2434 E. Dauphin St., 267-825-2949, proximityart.com

2005 Frankford Ave., 215-423-5002, germbooks.com

MUSIC The Barbary myspace.com/thenewbarbary

Proximity Gallery

119 W. Montgomery St., 610-308-0579, littleberlin.org 155 Cecil B. Moore Ave., mascherdance.com

More than 40 artists-in-residence have set up shop in this Kensington dance co-op since it opened in 2006. Philadelphia Photo Arts Center 1400 N. American St., 215-232-5678, philaphotoarts.org

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THE HOODS

RESTAURANTS + MARKETS Albert’s Café 3180 Grant Ave., 215-673-7200, albertscafe.com

Sticking to traditional Italian and American fare, Albert’s serves classics like chicken marsala and hot roast beef, plus standard pub grub like mozz sticks and buffalo wings.

THE NORTHEAST

Chickie’s and Pete’s 4010 Robbins Ave., 215-338-3060, chickiesandpetes.com

THE OTHER GREAT WHITE NORTH. Around these parts, the Northeast refers to the giant chunk of Philly bordered by the Delaware River, Adams Avenue, Bucks County and Montgomery County. It’s a big area (with even bigger hair), and there are quite a few reasons we call it “the Great Northeast.” Not only are bakeries, diners and dive bars abundant, but so is green space: In this mostly residential swath you’ve got Pennypack and Wissinoming Parks to start, plus tons of smaller diamonds in the rough.

accessible by public transportation: Septa’s R8 Regional Rail and the Market-Frankford El make it a quick commute to Center City. Or, you know, arrive in style at the Northeast Airport (9800 Ashton Road, 215-685-0333, phl.org/pne/pne. html). If you choose to be a Neastie, you’ll be repped by City Council members Joan L. Krajewski, Sixth District (215-686-3444); Maria D. QuinonesSanchez, Seventh District (215-686-3448); and Brian J. O’Neill, 10th District (215-686-3422).

WHILE YOU’RE HERE … • Order the Crab Fries at the original Chickie’s and Pete’s, healthy arteries be damned • Take a picnic to Pennypack Park • Starting at Haegele’s and ending at the Mayfair Bakery, do a buttercake crawl • Have a birthday party at the Insectarium • Head to the Grey Lodge Pub on any Friday the 13th — aka the craft-beer bar’s Friday the Firkinteenth

EXPLORE … BARS + CLUBS Grey Lodge Pub

YOU SHOULD KNOW … Contrary to popular belief, the Northeast is easily

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CITYPAPER PRIMER 2010 - 2011

6235 Frankford Ave., 215-856-3591, greylodge.com

If you go to the Grey Lodge on a Friday night, you’ll see something rare: a man hammering a tap into the bottom of a tiny, old-world keg. It’s the lodgemaster, who goes by the name Scoats, and he’s not making a mistake — he’s busting open a firkin of cask-conditioned beer. Every week there’s a different variety, usually from local breweries like Yards or Flying Fish.

The original location of Chickie’s and Pete’s opened in 1977 and features a bilevel space with three bars (try their Crabby Mary), plus a menu stuffed to the gills with gut-busters like Crab Fries, Chicken Cutlet Parm and Mussels Marinara. Dattilo’s Delicatessen 8000 Horrocks St., 215-725-2020

Dattilo’s has long been the go-to hoagie joint for the Northeast lunch rush, but this Italian deli has even more if you’ve got the time. Dining Car 8826 Frankford Ave., 215-338-5113, thediningcar.com

In addition to the usual diner fare, the Dining Car includes a bakery that sells fresh-baked pies, cakes, muffins, cookies and sugar-free items. Haegele’s Bakery 4164 Barnett St., 215-624-0117

Despite the abundance of buttercaking joints in Mayfair, you should call ahead to guarantee a slice from this German bakery tucked into a strip of rowhouses. The crunchier crust makes for much cleaner fingers, and on Fridays and Saturdays, they make a special round variety topped with peaches, blueberries or strawberries.


Makiman Sushi 7324 Oxford Ave., 215-722-8800

The elusive Makiman rocks wicked sushi rolls in the shadows of CVS and Dunkin’ Donuts. Mayfair Bakery 6447 Frankford Ave., 215-624-7878

Buttercake purists will approve of Mayfair Bakery’s classic, no-frills version — they’ve been putting junk in the Northeast’s trunk since 1965, and their recipes haven’t changed. As the adorable women behind the counter promise, the only ingredients are “lots of sugar and lots of butter.” Pick up a lemon crumb square to make it a balanced meal. Mayfair Diner 7373 Frankford Ave., 215-624-8887, mayfairdiner.com

Open every day of the year except Christmas, the Mayfair Diner is a mainstay for Neasties — maybe it has something to do with the fact that it’s a BYOB. Sweet Lucy’s 7500 State Road, 215-331-3112, sweetlucys.com

At Northeast Philly’s Sweet Lucy’s Smokehouse, piggies are roasted in an on-site hickory wood smoker. Twistee Treat 6900 Frankford Ave., 215-333-4100

The unmistakable frozen treats stand is a Tacony icon. White Elephant

course Thai lunch menu that beats the posh pants off your average money pit. Wit or Witout 9970 Roosevelt Blvd., 215-437-1681, witorwitout.com

John Tumolo, whose clan founded Rita’s Italian Ice, has entered the cheesesteak fray with this Wit or Witout location, the second in Northeast Philly. ARTS + CULTURE Grand Army of the Republic Museum 4278 Griscom St., 215-289-6484, garmuslib.org

This unassuming building makes the bold claim: “Where the Civil War comes alive.” Its collection — including the handcuffs John Wilkes Booth planned to use to kidnap President Lincoln and a strip of the dying president’s bloodstained pillowcase — backs it up. Insectarium 8046 Frankford Ave., 215-335-9500, myinsectarium.com

tional Register of Historic Places; it serves as both a museum of the Ryerss family’s various collections of exotic art and furnishings and a public library. SHOPPING Roosevelt Mall 2329 Cottman Ave., 215-331-2000

Franklin Mills Mall 1455 Franklin Mills Circle, 215-632-1500, franklinmills.com

Pat’s Music Center 7302 Frankford Ave., 215-708-0444, patsmusiccenter.com

Sells guitars drum kits, DJ equipment, amps, sheet music and more. PARKS + REC Burholme Park 401 Cottman Ave., 215-742-2380, saveburholmepark.org

Billed as Philadelphia’s only “all-bug museum,” the Insectarium hosts programs for kids and adults, all in the name of creepy-crawly education.

Fox Chase Farm

Philadelphia Distilling

Krewstown Road and Grant Avenue, 215-671-9220,

8500 Pine Road, 215-728-7900, foxchasefarm.org

Northeast Racquet Club & Fitness Center

12285 McNulty Road No. 105, 215-671-0346, philadel-

northeastracquet.com

phiadistilling.com

Pennypack Park

Up past the Northeast Airport near the edge of town is the home of Philly’s burgeoning smallbatch spirits empire, where Penn 1681 rye vodka, Vieux Carré absinthe and its crown jewel, Bluecoat American dry gin, are made.

759 Huntingdon Pike, 215-663-1495,

Ryerss Museum and Library

whiteelephantrestaurant.com

7370 Central Ave., 215-685-0544, ryerssmuseum.org

Tucked deep away in the Huntington Valley Shopping Center, White Elephant offers a three-

Open since 1910 and run by the Fairmount Park Commission, the Ryerss Museum is on the Na-

8015 Lawndale Ave., 215-725-2525, pennypackpark.com

Vogt Recreation Center 4131 Unruh Ave., 215-685-8753, vogtrec.com Wissinoming Park Cheltenham Road and Frankford Avenue, wissinomingpark.org

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THE HOODS

YOU SHOULD KNOW … The Broad Street line runs all the way to the massive Fern Rock Transportation Center with stops at Wyoming, Logan and Olney. The 47, 57, 26, C, J and K bus routes serve the area. Most of the neighborhood falls in the Ninth District, represented by Marian B. Tasco (215-686-3454). Mark Cohen (215-924-0895) and Dwight Evans (215-549-0220) are the primary state House representatives.

OLNEY/OAK LANE A BEND IN THE BORDER.

EXPLORE … RESTAURANTS + MARKETS Cornbread & Coffee 7175 Ogontz Ave., 215-424-0552

The name says it all. What else do you need? Everyday Good House

Situated at the “V” in the city line where Northeast and Northwest Philly converge, Olney and Oak Lane share history (East Oak Lane was settled in 1683 as William Penn’s first neighborhood), vibrant immigrant populations (African, Caribbean, Haitian and Korean), culture (Olney’s Little Korea; West Oak Lane’s Jazz & Arts Festival) and recent struggles with blight that are being countered by active community organizations. This area is bounded roughly by Roosevelt Boulevard to the south, Cheltenham Avenue to the north, Tacony Creek to the east and Belfield Avenue to the west. WHILE YOU’RE HERE … • Hit Kim’s for authentic Korean (aka cook at your table) BBQ • Grab a sled and hit the beautifully bowl-shaped Fisher Park • Party like it’s Mardi Gras at the West Oak Lane Jazz & Arts Fest • Soak up the serenity of La Salle University’s Japanese Tea House 82

CITYPAPER PRIMER 2010 - 2011

5501 N. Front St., 215-276-7942

Killer Korean and wailing karaoke collide at this out-of-the-way gem. Jong Ka Jib

Ron’s Caribbean Cafe 5726 N. Broad St., 215-924-3966

Oxtails! Get your fall-off-the-bone oxtails here! Seorabol Korean 5734 N. Old Second St., 215-924-3355, philadelphiakoreanrestaurant.com

Cheap, authentic Korean food whose acolytes claim it’s best in the city. Under the Oak Cafe 804 Oak Lane Ave., 215-924-1410

A buy-fresh/buy-local oasis at the edge of town. Vernie’s Soul Food 1800 W. Eleanor St., 215-457-3805

Word is, when the minivan’s parked out front, Mrs. Vernie is on the premises. ARTS + CULTURE Exclamation Gallery 727 Oak Lane Ave., exclamationgallery.net

Artist-run, non-commercial artist space.

6600 N. Fifth St., 215-924-0100

La Salle University

Though not a vegetarian restaurant, tofu is this excellent BYOB’s star.

20th Street and Olney Avenue

Olney Cultural Collaborative

Kim’s

5738 N. Fifth St., 267-331-9091,

5955 N. Fifth St., 215-927-4550

olneyculture.wordpress.com

A converted diner, Kim’s dishes out Korean barbecue and killer bibimbop.

SHOPPING Fola’s African Fashions

Relish

5740 N. Fifth St., 267-297-6102

7152 Ogontz Ave., 215-276-0170, relishphiladelphia.com

PARKS + REC Fisher Park

“Modern southern cuisine,” live jazz and off-street outdoor seating define this neighborhood favorite. Ribs R’ Us 4912 N. Fifth St., 215-324-7427, ribsrusonline.com

Ribs as Master Chef J.W. Wilcher was taught 50 years ago in Georgia: dry rubbed, marinated and slow-cooked over oak, blackjack and hickory. Oh, and you can order online.

600 W. Spencer St., 215-685-0060, myfisherpark.com

Olney’s green oasis boasts trees, a thriving community garden and gnarly sledding. Olney Playground Crescentville Avenue and Hammond Street


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Philadelphia City Paper PRIMER, 2010  

Philadelphia City Paper PRIMER, 2010

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