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>67:/23:>67/23:7meats lie somewhere in the Twilight Zone between really-close-to-authentic Italian salumi and completely bastardized, processed cold cuts with vaguely Italiansounding names. It depends mostly on where you are, and what sort of hoagie you are in the mood for. In some pockets of the city — namely South Philly — hoagies involve hard, seeded Italian loaves stuffed with imported meats that come pretty damn close to what you’d find in the old country or on a salumi plate at Le VirtÚ. But out in the ’burbs, down the Shore, or pretty much at any corner store in Philadelphia, the deli-meat situation becomes decidedly more lowbrow. Torpedo rolls are jammed with sliced pepperoni, bologna, salami and shimmering, neon-pink ham that looks like it came out of a can. The meats are topped with ribbons of shaved iceberg lettuce and shot through with a blast of oregano-spiked salad oil. This isn’t a bad thing, especially if you grew up with it. Here’s a guide to the meats you need to know.

1/>71=:/ Real Italian capocollo is pork neck and shoulder that is cured, smoked and rubbed with wine and southern Italian spices, wrapped in pig innards and hung to dry, resulting in a product not all that different from prosciutto. In Philadelphia hoagie shops, gabagool can range from something moderately resembling the style mentioned above to a product known as “hot cappy ham�, basically paprika-rubbed bologna. A=>@3AA/B/ A dry pork sausage — flavored with wine, black pepper, red pepper and lots of fat — Italian sopressata is salt-cured, fermented and air-dried, where it becomes covered in mold (the good kind) before being pressed for up to a week to create its signature rustic shape. Of all the hoagie standards, the deli version of sopressata is closest to the authentic version, although it’s likely made by a machine instead of a mustachioed charcuterie wizard in a Calabrian cave. Q]\bW\cSR]\^OUS


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