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Searching out bread in its native habitat, South Philly.

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A day at the Dietz & Watson plant in the Northeast.

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From capicola to gabagool, an illustrated guide to Italian hoagie meats.

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Contents copyright Š 2014, Metroweek Corp. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced without written permission from the publisher. Metroweek Corp. assumes no responsibility (other than cancellation of charges for actual space occupied) for accidental errors in advertising but will be glad to furnish a signed letter to the buying public.


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E6G/@3A/<2E7163A never as good when you make them at home? You might even buy your bread and meats from the same shop where you grab your to-go hoagies, but for the most part, your homemade version just wonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t measure up. You might as well call it a sub. (Thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s short for subpar, right?) So what gives? While there are some special cases (you can hardly be faulted for not having a flattop seasoned by decades of bygone cheesesteaks at home), weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d venture a guess that your sandwiches may be lacking in one key area: the garnish. Even the word â&#x20AC;&#x153;garnishâ&#x20AC;? sounds like a total throwaway; condiments, an afterthought. But great sandwiches require balance. We say â&#x20AC;&#x153;roast pork,â&#x20AC;? but a bitter vein of broccoli rabe is implied. At least half of the appeal of a â&#x20AC;&#x153;tomato sandwichâ&#x20AC;? is the silent mayo. And while we might let laziness or barren pantries get

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between us and fully realized sandwiches at home, weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d be unlikely to forgive any sandwich shop that dared to be blasĂŠ about shredded iceberg lettuce or the proper white onion, sliced paper-thin. Of course, your own tastes may disagree with one or more of the specifics cited above, which brings up the other major point about garnishes: theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re completely customizable. In Philly, where sandwiches are the ultimate staple food, thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s no shortage of worthy shops. So you might choose one shop over another based on what they pile on, or favor a spot that hands over a partially blank canvas and lets you browse the pepper-and-pickle bar at your own pace. To explore the possible variations on some of Phillyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most beloved sandwiches, we took several detours, but the place to start is, of course, Ninth Street. For cold-sandwich canon, the obvious first choice is a trip to AO`Q]\S¸a. Grab a benchmark Italian hoagie and default to lettuce, tomato and onion, lightly dressed in oil and vinegar, with a sprinkle of Italian seasoning on top. If you prefer more acid or heat to cut through all those cold cuts and provolone, hot or sweet pickled peppers or roasted long hots do the trick. You can begin to venture into the classic roast pork at Sarconeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s, too â&#x20AC;&#x201D; or, if you prefer a change of scenery, head to 1VWQYWS¸a or 1]a[W¸a. Or find your way

to Reading Terminal Market for 2W<WQ¸a, which earned the title of â&#x20AC;&#x153;Americaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Best Sandwichâ&#x20AC;? in a bracket-style TV showdown hosted by Man vs. Food guy Adam Richman. Whichever way you go, youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll find an archetypal combo that employs broccoli rabe, prepared as simply as possible, to add bitter intrigue. Many of Phillyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s signature sandwiches are being turned out of family-owned shops that have pedigrees going back to the 1930s or further. But there are some relatively new kids on the scene owned by trained chefs, many of whom take some liberties with the old standbys. Thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s certainly the case a few blocks down Ninth, at >OSaO\]¸a. Their Italian hoagie, which goes by the name of the Daddy Wad, is irreverently topped to favor bigger flavors: Thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s red onion in place of white, hot and sweet pickled peppers strewn throughout, and arugula standing in for iceberg lettuce. What you lose in crunch, you gain in astringent bite. Paesanoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s version of the classic roast pork sandwich, though, takes more liberties with the pork than with what goes on it. Roasted suckling pig is the pork of choice. Shards of sharp provolone and broccoli rabe apparently couldnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t be improved much upon, though the sautĂŠed rabe is more assertively seasoned than that of the competition. Chopped


long hots are incorporated throughout, giving the entire sandwich serious heat. Another elevated take on roast pork thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s made some noise recently is chef Eli Kulpâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s version at 6WUVAb`SSb]\;O`YSb. Here, the broccoli rabe is treated with far more care than most: Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s fermented with bold additions like garlic, scallions, chile and horseradish. The process adds tremendous flavor and preserves the product allowing the restaurant to use locally sourced rabe for more of the year. Whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s the impetus for this sort of riff, if DiNicâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s roast pork has already been crowned the best sandwich in the country without the extra steps? For Kulp, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a matter of reflex: â&#x20AC;&#x153;Normally, every time you get that sandwich, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s pretty much just steamed broccoli rabe. As a chef, I eat that sandwich and think, â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Wow, thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s such a good combination; itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll be even better if I take some extra care with that as far as season and balance.â&#x20AC;&#x2122;â&#x20AC;? Here, as at

Paesanoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s, the desire seems to be to carefully compose a new perfect bite that still pays homage to the one the city already loves. Kulp specifies that his goal is â&#x20AC;&#x153;to represent the sandwich really well without getting too fussy.â&#x20AC;? Kulpâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s long hots get treated with a similar abundance of care. In his kitchen, the peppers get pickled with garlic, thyme and bayleaf and are finished with a quick char on the grill before being served alongside each sandwich. Kulp describes long hots as â&#x20AC;&#x153;iconic,â&#x20AC;? which explains why they have such prominence on his menu, even though, he admits, â&#x20AC;&#x153;most people donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t even eat them.â&#x20AC;? He thinks that a few people might be unsure how to eat them, but guesses itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s mostly a bit more straightforward than that. â&#x20AC;&#x153;The thing is, honestly, some of them are really fucking spicy. You have to be careful to find the right balance as you eat.â&#x20AC;? Back in the Italian Market, it seems

unlikely that anyone would be unsure of what to do with a long hot. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Iconicâ&#x20AC;? does seem an apt description for the peppers, which, despite their heat, are a deli mainstay. At Sarconeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s, you can buy them by the pound, roasted and packed in seasoned oil. Stuffed pepper shooters remove some of the fiery seeds and pith, to be replaced by sharp provolone. Theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re eaten as a snack, plunked wholesale onto a sandwich, or chopped up and incorporated throughout. While their heat varies from pepper to pepper, theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re typically much hotter than the pickled banana pepper rings or cherry peppers that are also standard. Of course, Ninth Street and the area around it now hosts plenty of diversions from the classic Italian-American fare that gave the neighborhood its name. While hoagies and roast pork may be Phillyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s best-known signature sandwiches, it would be fair to say that tortas, Q]\bW\cSR]\^OUS&

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cemitas and banh mi are now eligible for that pantheon. The flavors and ingredients are all different, but the basic idea of balancing out rich and carb-y elements with crunchy, spicy or tart embellishments is entirely familiar. Youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll find tortas at almost every South Philly taqueria â&#x20AC;&#x201D; and because most of the owners in this area come from Puebla, many offer that stateâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s signature sandwich, the cemita, as well. Typically, you choose a filling from selections that echo the meats you might select for a taco (carnitas, lengua, al pastor) plus things like breaded and fried cutlets, ham, eggs and cheese. In some cases, as with the â&#x20AC;&#x153;Cubanâ&#x20AC;? tortas at 3Z8O`]QV] or Los Gallos, the sandwich comes layered with several of those potential fillings. The toppings, then, are crucial to keeping the sandwiches from veering into overkill territory. And theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re pretty standard: On most tortas around town,

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youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll find layers of lettuce, tomato, onion, avocado, jalapenos, mayo and often a thin layer of refried beans. At :]a5OZZ]a, the mayo is flavored with chipotle, and the jalapenos are pickled. Cemitas, in addition to occupying a different sort of roll, vary a little more in their toppings from place to place, but thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s one unifying, defining garnish: papalo. Julia Moskin once described papalo as â&#x20AC;&#x153;a fresh herb with the bite of watercress and the breath of cilantro,â&#x20AC;? and no one has probably done a better job of describing it since. Less articulate types usually just default to describing it as â&#x20AC;&#x153;kind of like cilantro,â&#x20AC;? though with a lack of conviction that suggests that itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s â&#x20AC;&#x153;likeâ&#x20AC;? cilantro in the sense that they are both Mexican herbs. The flavor is distinct, and itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a crucial component. Just steps off Ninth Street, at <VcG, there are fine examples of Phillyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s other great sandwich, the banh mi. West Philly

spots like 4cEOV are famous for these, even if people do insist on calling them â&#x20AC;&#x153;tofu hoagies.â&#x20AC;? But tofu is just one option: typically, fillings include fatty pork, spiced and charred chicken and rich pate, often with a smear of mayo or butter. Here, the garnishes are really the star of the show, yielding a far lighter sandwich than any other weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve discussed: julienned or shredded carrots lightly pickled in rice wine vinegar, whole sprigs of cilantro and batons of cucumber and jalapeno. The meats, though typically quite flavorful, function more as a counterpoint to the crunchy salad. Ultimately, all of these examples from across the city serve to illustrate a basic takeaway for enjoying better sandwiches. Consider: What is central to your sandwich? Next: What is its opposite? Add that. Make sure each element tastes good on its own. Otherwise, just go out and let someone else do all the thinking. Ă&#x2021;


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B63@3E/A/ time when South Philly smelled like bread and the streets were paved with sesame seeds. For Italian immigrants and the generations of Americans they produced, the corner bakery was an anchor, clubhouse, water cooler, confessional â&#x20AC;&#x201D; a space where neighborhood bonds were forged over the most elemental and honest of foods. To say that South Philly has changed in the century that followed that first wave of immigration would be a giant understatement. Many of the bakeries have closed. But the strongest have endured â&#x20AC;&#x201D; and new ones have risen like

dough on a sunny windowsill. A sandwich is only as good as its bread. Meet the rolls of downtownâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s upper crust.



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â&#x20AC;&#x153;First of all,â&#x20AC;? Lou Sarcone Jr. wrote me, â&#x20AC;&#x153;Sarconeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s is the bakery that started the seeded bread.â&#x20AC;? It takes the fourth-generation baker six hours and a brick oven to produce a batch of South Phillyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most iconic and identifiable loaves: structures of soft crumb wrapped like broken


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saltâ&#x20AC;?) on a 60-quart Hobart, rests, packs, proofs, shapes and proofs it again before a trip to the brick oven. Enveloped in thin, crackly, sometimes-sesame-speckled shells, the loaves that emerge have a chewy, pliable quality â&#x20AC;&#x201D; not unlike a puffy pizza crust.

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A Northern Liberties transplant, Carangi is a relative newcomer to the South Philly bread scene. They opened in 1998 on Oregon Avenue, pouring La Colombe in a neighborhood that probably considered that a country in South America. Unlike most downtown bakeries, this one does a variety of breads, including this listâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s whole-wheat Lone Ranger, a baguette with a nutty flavor and airy crumb flecked with tawny bran.



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If you can resist David Menesesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Mexican pans dulces â&#x20AC;&#x201D; poufy conchas, chocolatedipped donuts so big a rapper could outfit them with rims â&#x20AC;&#x201D; his Italian-style loaf is a surprise find. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s as long as a baseball bat, thoroughly crusted in sesame seeds and has the pillow-like softness common in south-of-the-border baked goods. The dough possesses a barely perceptible sweetness, almost fruity â&#x20AC;&#x201D; possibly from camping out near its spiced and sugared relatives.

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A Cambodian-born, French-trained baker, Andre Chinâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s hard-crusted, pebble-bottomed French baguette stands apart from the boot-rooted bakeries and

breads of South Philly â&#x20AC;&#x201D; but itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s as good for building hoagies or banh mi as it is for slathering with triple-crème. No wonder Passyunk acolytes became upset when Chin and his partner and wife, Amanda Eap, closed their shop at 12th and Morris last year â&#x20AC;&#x201D; happily resurfacing a few blocks away.

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What the elbow-tipped loaf from Faragalliâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s, a one-room bakery, lacks in length, it makes up for in weight. You could club a bear with this thick-crusted sans-sesame bread â&#x20AC;&#x201D; my dense, chewy favorite since I waited tables in college at Cucina Pazzo, which sourced its bread here. We used to cut a loaf down at the beginning of service, storing the slices in a warming drawer. Half went into the drawer, the other half into my stomach. Ă&#x2021;


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Âľ:/EA:793A/CA/53A cease to inspire respect in proportion as we know how they are made.â&#x20AC;? This quote from American poet John Godfrey Saxe is commonly misattributed to Otto von Bismarck. The Prussian statesman echoed the sentiment years later, saying, â&#x20AC;&#x153;Laws are like sausages, it is better not to see them being made.â&#x20AC;? No matter on which side of the pond this quote originated, when youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re approaching the entrance to the Dietz & Watson deli-meats factory just off Tacony Street in Northeast Philly, thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a moment of pause when these two quotes ring very true. If youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re familiar with Michael Pollanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s The Omnivoreâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Dilemma or Eric Schlosserâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Fast Food Nation, food politics or the concept of pink slime, the idea of setting foot in a meat-processing plant isnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t exactly comfortable.

But in the conference room at Dietz & Watson, the small marketing team assures me that they had all toured the factory recently, and it was an eye-opening experience in a totally different way. They explain that the company supplies lunch to all of its employees every day: cold cuts and condiments with a BYOB policy (that would be bring your own bread) and that no one had skipped lunch after seeing how the proverbial (and not-so-proverbial) sausage was made. But before suiting up and heading into the plant â&#x20AC;&#x201D; a task that requires a shin-length, powder-blue lab coat, a pair of black rubber waders, a hairnet, a pink plastic helmet and an in-ear microphone â&#x20AC;&#x201D; letâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s back up a little. Seventy-five years to be exact. Gottlieb Dietz emigrated from Stuttgart, Germany, in 1939. Trained as a wursthersteller, or sausage maker, he brought his pork know-how with him to Philadelphia. â&#x20AC;&#x153;He came over and worked in the sausage-making business here in Philadelphia, but he always wanted to start his own business,â&#x20AC;? says Louis Eni, Gottliebâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s grandson and CEO of Dietz & Watson. A few years later, the trained butcher and sausage maker crossed paths with a mysterious Mr. Watson, a ham smoker with whom Dietz began his delicatessen empire.

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Watson parted ways with Dietz shortly after the company was founded, but his name remains. The early days of Dietz & Watson were based on batter, basically a finely emulsified blend of pork and beef that could be piped into casings for hot dogs and wieners and molded into bologna and loaves. Loaves? Well, loaves of pimentoand-olive-studded luncheon meat might not be deli bestsellers these days, but at the time they were everyday lunch. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s interesting to see how the business has changed. That was the deli business. If we made a handful of hams, that was a big week. Nobody went to a little neighborhood deli and bought ham or turkey. No one had even heard of turkey breast in those days,â&#x20AC;? Eni says. The company operated out of a nowgone building at Front and Vine streets until 1975 when I-95 was built and the company was forced to relocate to its Tacony Street digs. Marketing manager Kevin Rider Jr. says the the operations at the Philadelphia plant (there are two other locations, one in upstate New Q]\bW\cSR]\^OUS$

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York and the other in Baltimore, which specialize in cheese and poultry, respectively) are based on a European model. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s very European-style production. In Europe, they donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t have a lot of room so they go north and south. Machines can be moved in and out [of the production space] depending upon whether or not theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re using them,â&#x20AC;? Rider says. â&#x20AC;&#x153;When you go into the plant, youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll see big tubs, but theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re only 500 pounds. This isnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t an Oscar Meyer or a Tastykake with a mile and a half of factory-floor space.â&#x20AC;? On the floor, John Capra (a man who bears a striking resemblance to Tom Colicchio of Top Chef fame), Dietz & Watsonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s quality assurance manager, served as a guide through the facility. We began just around noon when most of the companyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s employees were heading to lunch. Capra greeted many of them by name, explaining that part of

his job was to show around new hires, some of whom come from places like Hong Kong and Honduras, and many employees who have been with the company for decades. The floor of the factory is covered in a thick, white foam that looks like what happens when you add a little too much detergent to your washing machine. Capra explains that itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s antimicrobial foam thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s constantly pumped in to assure sanitary conditions (and the reason that weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re all outfitted with those black rubber waders.) Capra has also set up the dayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s tour backward, going from cooked product to raw, a precaution to eliminate any possible cross-contamination. We walk through brisk brining rooms, smoking rooms, drying rooms for fermenting pepperoni â&#x20AC;&#x201D; all of the finishing steps of Dietz & Watsonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s meats. The larger pepperoni logs sit in the drying room for

up to three weeks while the snack size are ready to go in just 48 hours. And then thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s the spice room. While itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s not exactly the colorful scene of a spice market in Delhi or Istanbul, Dietz & Watsonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s spice room must be home to the largest volume of spices in the city. And the air â&#x20AC;&#x201D; thickly scented with mace, paprika and garlic powder â&#x20AC;&#x201D; is misty with a palpable savoriness. Moving into the raw-production area, Eni joins the tour. We stop to look at massive cardboard crates filled with the subdivisions of primal cuts of pork and beef from farms in the Midwest. That notion of hot dogs being made of lesser cuts (the old pigâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s-lips-and-assholes formula) couldnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t be further from the case here. Thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s no denying that this is factory-farmed meat, but the cuts here are pristine and well-marbled, the kind of meat that looks infinitely more Q]\bW\cSR]\^OUS&

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appealing than what youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll find in most supermarkets. Next up was Dietz & Watsonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s micro lab. A hot-dog roller might not be the first piece of equipment youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d think youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d find in a lab, but there it was â&#x20AC;&#x201D; set up and loaded with sausages and hot dogs â&#x20AC;&#x201D; alongside all of the beakers and vials. â&#x20AC;&#x153;We do our research and development in here. We do a lot of cooking in here, a lot of product tasting,â&#x20AC;? says Eni. â&#x20AC;&#x153;And a lot of eating,â&#x20AC;? chimes in scientist Bob Seaver. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Every day at lunchtime, we slice product,â&#x20AC;? Capra explains. â&#x20AC;&#x153;We have product on the grill all of the time that weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re tasting, making sure itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s right. We pull product on the line throughout the day to taste it. What they packed last night on second shift, Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll pull it in the morning when I come in and put it on the grill and try it.â&#x20AC;? After walking through room after room of hot dogs being filled, cased and peeled

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(mid-April is the beginning of hot-dog season at Dietz & Watson), the tour ends back in the conference room with two generations of the Dietz family, including the grandchildren and great-grandchildren of Gottlieb Dietz. Cindy Yingling, CFO, shares a bittersweet story about how her father had a heart attack on the day of her college graduation, sparking the introduction of the companyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s first low-sodium ham, back in 1979. When asked about how being a Philadelphia-based company affects their business, Eni replies, â&#x20AC;&#x153;I donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t know, weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve always been in Philly.â&#x20AC;? He goes on to talk about scrapple, the ubiquitous, love-it-or-hate-it breakfast meat. Lauren Eni, head of brand marketing, says this Philadelphiacentric product has a die-hard fan base outside of the city, too, in places like

Southern California, Phoenix, Arizona and Southern Florida. â&#x20AC;&#x153;We do a little mail order, and if someone wants it bad enough, we get it to them,â&#x20AC;? she says. â&#x20AC;&#x153;One thing thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s unique about Philly, that canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t be said for many other cities that Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m aware of, is that Philly is very much a sandwich town,â&#x20AC;? says Chris Yingling, a third-generation member of the Dietz clan and vice president of finance for the company. â&#x20AC;&#x153;In Chicago, you have that dipped [Italian] beef sandwich and in Southern California youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve got sandwiches loaded with bean sprouts and avocaado slices. There are so many regional sandwiches, but Philly is â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;the sandwich [town]â&#x20AC;&#x2122;. You have tons of bread companies. Thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a huge focus on the sandwich itself and however that may materialize. That being said, what better place for a deli company to thrive and incubate than Philadelphia?â&#x20AC;? Ă&#x2021;


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>67:/23:>67/23:7meats lie somewhere in the Twilight Zone between really-close-to-authentic Italian salumi and completely bastardized, processed cold cuts with vaguely Italiansounding names. It depends mostly on where you are, and what sort of hoagie you are in the mood for. In some pockets of the city â&#x20AC;&#x201D; namely South Philly â&#x20AC;&#x201D; hoagies involve hard, seeded Italian loaves stuffed with imported meats that come pretty damn close to what youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d find in the old country or on a salumi plate at Le VirtĂš. But out in the â&#x20AC;&#x2122;burbs, down the Shore, or pretty much at any corner store in Philadelphia, the deli-meat situation becomes decidedly more lowbrow. Torpedo rolls are jammed with sliced pepperoni, bologna, salami and shimmering, neon-pink ham that looks like it came out of a can. The meats are topped with ribbons of shaved iceberg lettuce and shot through with a blast of oregano-spiked salad oil. This isnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t a bad thing, especially if you grew up with it. Hereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a guide to the meats you need to know.

1/>71=:/ Real Italian capocollo is pork neck and shoulder that is cured, smoked and rubbed with wine and southern Italian spices, wrapped in pig innards and hung to dry, resulting in a product not all that different from prosciutto. In Philadelphia hoagie shops, gabagool can range from something moderately resembling the style mentioned above to a product known as â&#x20AC;&#x153;hot cappy hamâ&#x20AC;?, basically paprika-rubbed bologna. A=>@3AA/B/ A dry pork sausage â&#x20AC;&#x201D; flavored with wine, black pepper, red pepper and lots of fat â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Italian sopressata is salt-cured, fermented and air-dried, where it becomes covered in mold (the good kind) before being pressed for up to a week to create its signature rustic shape. Of all the hoagie standards, the deli version of sopressata is closest to the authentic version, although itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s likely made by a machine instead of a mustachioed charcuterie wizard in a Calabrian cave. Q]\bW\cSR]\^OUS

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;=@B/23::/ From Bologna, Italy, mortadella, the precursor to American bologna, is a finely ground, moist pork sausage studded with chunks of lard and, often, pistachios. Made with emulsified meat and flavored with mace, nutmeg, white pepper and clove, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a very different flavor, with a mild, frankfurterlike taste that works as a counterpoint to all the salty, funky dried meats on your hoagie. Youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll find the best at gourmet shops and high-end delis. Otherwise, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s bologna with stuff jammed into it. 53<=/A/:/;7 This salami is a mildly spiced beef-and-pork sausage with a slight acidic wine-funk, and itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s one that you would never find on the streets of the Italian city Genoa. Basically an American invention (with a vague link to the very funky, dry, moldy Genoese salame di Sant Oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;lcese), Genoa salami isnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t likely to be found on a charcuterie plate or any halfway decent â&#x20AC;&#x153;Olde Italianâ&#x20AC;?-style hoagie. Genoaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s flavor is pretty much essential to the suburban, soft-roll-style hoagies that you find at Leeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Hoagie House. Ă&#x2021;

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