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LETTER FROM THE EDITOR

PUBLISHER

WHEN YOU’RE HERE, YOU’RE FAMILY.

EDITOR IN CHIEF

This publication by the Philadelphia City Paper staff is our way of offering welcome to all new transplants as well as those in search of a richer Philadelphia experience. And to all the Philly newbies out there, I say: I am one of you! Sort of. After growing up an hour away, I moved to Philly for college (go Hawks!), then left for a long stretch of nomadic wanderings before returning two-plus years ago. So twice I’ve had the pleasure of getting acquainted with this metropolis, the sixth-biggest city in the U.S., home to clichés about cheesesteaks (yes, try one) and the founding spot of, well, the nation itself. As a way to introduce you to Philly and encourage you to discover its riches, City Guide has laid it all out for you in two distinct sections. “The Basics” provides a primer — a cheat sheet, if you will. In these short articles we provide some background on the Philly experience (for example, why the liquor laws here are so weird), get you up to speed on some of its characters and events (enterprising restaurateurs, interesting festivals), and provide some outing suggestions (for finding fresh produce, or getting exercise on the Schuylkill River Trail). “The Hoods” introduces all 17-plus Philly neighborhoods, comprising a motley variety of styles, people and architecture. For each we offer an introduction (complete with rough borders, so you don’t accidentally call Fishtown Kensington or vice versa), a list of quick-hit hot spots you can’t miss if you’re in town, information on neighborhood associations and City Council representation, plus carefully curated listings on all sorts of establishments and organizations worth checking out. Explore the landscape. Enjoy the idiosyncrasies. We hope you’ll stay a while. Theresa Everline Editor in Chief, Philadelphia City Paper

Nancy Stuski

Theresa Everline

CREATIVE DIRECTOR

BAJ Design, bajdesign.com

MANAGING EDITOR Carolyn Huckabay

PHOTOGRAPHER Neal Santos

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

Darren Ankrom, Meg Augustin, Diana Campeggio, Felicia D’Ambrosio, Clare Foran, Drew Lazor, Kelsey McGlynn, Khoury Johnson, Josh Middleton, Grace Ortelere, Holly Otterbein, Cassie Owens, Patrick Rapa, Eric Schuman, Christopher Seybert, Isaiah Thompson, Brian Wilensky, Dylan Williams

PRODUCTION MANAGER  Michael Polimeno

ADVERTISING ART DIRECTOR Reseca Peskin

CONTRIBUTING DESIGNERS Alyssa Grenning, Evan M. Lopez, Irving Navarro, Alicia Solsman

ADVERTISING DIRECTOR Eileen Pursley

SENIOR ACCOUNT MANAGERS Nick Cavanaugh, Kevin Gallagher, Sharon MacWilliams, Stephan Sitzai

BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT MANAGER Nicholas Forte

ACCOUNT MANAGERS

Sara Carano, Chris Scartelli, Donald Snyder

OFFICE COORDINATOR Alexis Pierce

CIRCULATION DIRECTOR Mark Burkert

cover illustration by Alyssa Nassner

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CITY GUIDE 2011 - 2012


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TABLE OF CONTENTS OPENER

THE HOODS

4

38

The Complete Hoods Map

39

Old City/Washington Square West

43

Rittenhouse/Center City West

47

Society Hill/South Street East

50

The Gayborhood/Midtown Village

52

Chinatown/Loft District

54

Bella Vista/Queen Village

56

Graduate Hospital/Grays Ferry/

Letter from the Editor: When you’re here, you’re family.

THE BASICS 10 PHILADELPHIA

The story so far (or: How we got over).

12 HALL MONITOR

Watch the melodrama unfold in the weird world of Philly politics.

14 BEER AND LOATHING

What do you mean I can’t buy beer at the grocery store?

16 TWO WHEELS GOOD

The unspoken dos and don’ts of biking in Philly.

18 TAKING IT TO THE STREETS

Forget independence — Philly’s festivals make a declaration of fun.

20 OH, THE PLACES YOU’LL GO (TO EAT!)

A tour of some of the best meal tickets in town.

22 STAGE WHISPERS

photo by Neal Santos

A quick survey of Philly’s most trusted music venues.

24 SEPTA/REGIONAL RAIL MAP

The inside track on our trains, buses and trolleys.

26 OUTWARD BOUND

From downtown to upriver along the banks of the mighty Schuylkill.

27 VEGGING OUT

Your guide to produce-hunting in the 215.

28 THE EXHIBITIONISTS

Tips on getting the most out of Philly’s arts-centered First Fridays.

30 THE GETAWAYS

A triptych of quick trips on a tank of gas or less.

33 OUT ON THE TOWN

You’re here. You’re queer. Let’s do this.

34 FIELDERS’ CHOICE

Philly’s full of good sports and boisterous fans.

South Street West

58

South Philly

60

East Passyunk/Italian Market

63

Germantown/Mount Airy/Chestnut Hill

66

West Philly/University City/Southwest Philly

70

Fairmount/Art Museum

72

Manayunk/Roxborough/East Falls

75

Northern Liberties

81

North Philly/Olney/Oak Lane

82

The Northeast

84

Port Fishington (Port Richmond/Fishtown/Kensington)


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THE BASICS WELCOME TO PHILLY


location Vine Street Expressway photo by Neal Santos


words by Patrick Rapa & Brian Howard   illustrations by Alyssa Nassner

THE BASICS

historical timeline

PHILADELPHIA

1854 The Meat Up Up till this point, Philadelphia proper was simply the area between the Delaware and Schuylkill rivers and Vine and South streets. During the act of consolidation, 28 surrounding townships, boroughs and districts were carefully selected and cobbled together to form the precise shape of a pork chop.

THE STORY SO FAR (OR: HOW WE GOT OVER) 6,000 years ago: Saga Genesis In the beginning, Adam and Eve galloped bareback around Pangaea on their Model T-Rexes, doing doughnuts and dropping babies.

1682 Monarchy from the U.K. Step aside, Lenapeeps, Finnzies, Dutchwives and Swedeypies — Penn scored a permission slip from Charles II to found the city and state for the glory of Mum England. The charter called for a “greene country towne” full of parks and trees. Philadelphians instead subdivided their lots and began gathering in unsanitary crowds in Old City, a tradition that continues to this day.

1682

1706

Pre-Colonial: Shackamaxed Out Before there was a Philadelphia, there was a Shackamaxon. A Lenni Lenape Indian village stood in the place we now call Kensington, and the residents hunted, gathered, farmed and buried souvenir arrowheads. They never heard of Jesus or white people until William Penn showed up with a treaty and a quill. Blah blah blah. You can visit the Lenape today in Oklahoma. 1706-1790 Ben Franklin, Founding Philanderer Philly’s patron saint started the New World’s first newspaper, hospital and library, invented the lightning rod, the iron furnace stove, odometer and bifocals. A renowned carouser, he also invented the pickup line: Well done is better than well said, now get thee wench into my bed.

1774

1799-1848 Follow the Leader Competition wasn’t exactly stiff for famous firsts back in the post-Independence days. And that’s the way Philly liked it. We had the nation’s first water works, fine arts promotion society, daily newspaper, art institution, carbonated water, insurance company, public bank, abolition act, penny newspaper, use of gas as an illuminant, regular comics paper and more. Philadelphia also created America’s first laurels, then sat on them.

1793

1799

1854

1793 And It Was All Yellow Fever Already wildly unpopular, mosquitoes suffered a PR nightmare after a few people they landed on, like only 5,000, allegedly got a touch of yellow fever, barfed up a couple blood clots and died a little bit. Retaliatory swatting claimed untold millions.

1774-1781 Down with the King After years of unrepped taxes and flavorless food — not to mention the emotional toll — we were ready to just delete Britain from Friendster and move on, but of course there had to be drama. The Revolutionary War happened and it was this whole big thing. Philly was the epicenter for colonial dissent, hosting two Continental Congresses (a record!) and vanity-pressing Common Sense, the Declaration and the Constitution. After the war, we were the capital of the United States, until we got bored of it.


1981 and 1985 A Series of Unfortunate Events The moments that continue to define and haunt modern Philadelphia are two instances of violence involving AfricanAmericans and the police. On a December day in 1981, fate’s crossroads were at 13th and Locust; so were Mumia Abu-Jamal and officer Daniel Faulkner. In 1985, Mayor Wilson Goode and the PPD made the curious decision to drop a bomb on the Osage Avenue compound of anarchoprimitivist organization MOVE. Since then, race relations have been great and our cops are like big cuddly teddy bears with guns.

Today: Tomorrow’s Child The Phillies are awesome. The Flyers and Eagles are always good. The Sixers are still around, probably. People seem to like the soccer team. It’s Always Sunny in Philadelphia is the best show on TV. The Roots are the best band on TV. Everybody just runs down the street at top speed, high-fiving each other and saying, “You are a beautiful human being and there’s nothing I wouldn’t do for you.”

Early 1900s Keystone Cops Once the most important city in the universe, Philadelphia started getting a rep for political corruption and resistance to change. The mob was everywhere, Prohibition was openly mocked and our cops were crookeder than our hockey players’ noses. A real live brigadier general, one Smedley Butler was brought in to clean up the town by militarizing the police force and declaring war on speakeasies and hookers. Dude lasted about a week.

1876

1900

1876 New Century Schoolbook Like some overcompensating nouveauriche douchebag, the U.S. threw itself a massive 100th birthday rager — the Centennial International Exposition! The first World’s Fair! — in Fairmount Park. We all gazed at modern marvels and, when everyone finally went home, we left some of the buildings standing cuz everybody loves a party but nobody wants to clean up.

1950

1973

1981

1992

2008

2011

2008 Ballers Once More Concluding a 25-year sports championship drought that had steadily eroded the city’s self-esteem, the Phillies won the World Series. Only a few cars got flipped over and the fires were few and manageable. 1973-83 You Mad? Philadelphia was the toast of the sports world. The Sixers and Flyers were champs twice, the Phillies, Eagles and Rocky all took home hardware. Around the same time, Gamble and Huff were putting Philly soul and funk on the national stage. It was a good time to be alive.

Post-WWII Boom and Gloom Philly’s population peaked at more than 2 million in 1950 and everybody was polite and had polio. Then came white flight: Caucasians flocked to the suburbs, led by Connie Mack’s Philadelphia A’s, who ran all the way to Kansas City.

1992 Mayor Ed In 1991, Ed Rendell, a nondescript former DA, made his second run for mayor, this time defeating Frank “billy club in my cummerbund” Rizzo, who by that time was deceased. Ed’s infamous appetite is considered the driving factor behind Philadelphia’s economic turnaround, which saw once-decrepit Center City blossom into one huge restaurant district. He went on to become governor, chairman of the DNC and a recurring figure on Neanderthal sports talk shows.


THE BASICS

words by Holly Otterbein photo by Neal Santos

good government

HALL MONITOR

WATCH THE MELODRAMA UNFOLD IN THE WEIRD WORLD OF PHILLY POLITICS. Tuning in to city politics for the first time is a bit like jumping into a soap opera. At first, the decadesin-the-making storylines seem uninteresting and impossible to grasp —  but keep watching, and suddenly, themes emerge! Stories twist and turn and collapse in on themselves! Characters die, and then come back from the grave! Seriously. And this November’s election, which you’re lucky to be just in time for, is a microcosm of this city’s dramatic —  and just plain weird —  political scene. Take, for instance, the abundance of wacky characters. Karen Brown, who just ran for Democratic Councilperson at the beginning of this year, is now running for mayor as a Republican in November’s election. She somehow won the party’s support, and beat a longtime Republican in this year’s primary race. Fun, right? Then there’s the fact that, for a while, former Democratic Mayor John Street —  whose office was bugged by the FBI during his eight-year 12

CITY GUIDE 2011 - 2012

tenure — was toying with idea of running as an Independent against Democratic Mayor Michael Nutter. Funner yet: During this year’s primary, Street’s brother Milton — who was fresh out of jail for tax evasion — ran against Nutter. He lost, but somehow managed to get 24 percent of the vote. Speaking of jailbirds, famous homeless activist Cheri Honkala is running for sheriff on the Green Party ticket in November. She has been arrested dozens of times, and has a radical plan to suspend all sheriff’s sales if elected. Another thing to know about November’s election: It won’t matter nearly as much as the one in May 2011 did. That’s because Democrats outnumber Republicans seven to one in Philadelphia, so the real elections are the primaries. Still, a few races will be competitive this fall: In particular, watch the bout for city commissioner and councilperson at-large (on the Republican side). You should also keep tabs on city politicians because they have a hand in everything  — from

how much of your paycheck goes to taxes to how many sick days you can take each year to whether you can open a business on that sweet plot of land you just bought. Plus, they’re surprisingly accessible. For better or worse, Philly politicians have been known to respond to small, but vocal, minorities. City Paper’s news blog, The Naked City, keeps our leaders accountable. Join the conversation at citypaper.net/nakedcity.


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THE BASICS

words by Isaiah Thompson photo by Neal Santos

booze clues

BEER AND LOATHING WHAT DO YOU MEAN I CAN’T BUY BEER AT THE GROCERY STORE?

“Are you ready to take part in a civil disobedience demonstration against the un-American Pennsylvania booze sale monopoly law that could get you fined or even taken to jail?” So asked Lew Bryson recently on his blog, noplcb. blogspot.com, in reference to a push by some state Republicans to privatize Pennsylvania’s liquor industry, which is now a monopoly controlled by the Pennsylvania Liquor Control Board. Who are these wise men and women in whom the power to decide what and for how much we can drink has been vested? Ph.D.s in alcoholic economics, perhaps? No, they’re mostly a bunch of politically connected patronage hacks, and for that very reason unlikely to be ousted anytime soon from their boozy thrones. (Note: So inspired were these patronage princes that the PLCB recently introduced “wine kiosks” at a few supermarkets. The kiosks broke down, and the system was put into indefinite suspension. Go PA!) 14

CITY GUIDE 2011 - 2012

There might be some kind of alcohol access revolution coming our way, but until then you’re stuck with the present state of things: Wine and liquor can be purchased only in state stores, widely noted for their crappy hours, unsurprising selections and surprisingly not-cheaper-thanJersey prices. And beer may be purchased only from licensed distributors and only by the case — unless you buy it second-hand, at a deli or bar, for about double the distributors’ prices. Is there a way to beat the system? Yes, but it’s illegal and difficult to pull off without a car. One way or another, you’re gonna pay the price of living in Pennsylvania, so you might as well strategize. Center City-wise, there are plenty of delis that sell beer, but for the best selection, head to boutique suds shops like Beer Heaven (1100 S. Columbus Blvd., Suite 23, 215-271-5248) or The Foodery (837 N. Second St., 215-238-6077;

324 S. 10th St., 215-928-1111, fooderybeer.com), which let you mix-a-six from tons of individually sold beers, local and otherwise. Hawthornes (738 S. 11th St., 215-627-3012, hawthornecafe.com) even has a growler list. But be forewarned: The prices ain’t low. For the individual clever enough to figure out a way to transport a case of beer, Bella Vista Beer Distributors (755 S. 11th St., 215-627-6465, bellavistabeverage.com) boasts an unusually wide selection, including plenty of Belgians and an entire room full of seasonals. Wine-lovers will do well to visit the Reading Terminal Market’s Blue Mountain Wine (51 N. 12th St., 215-238-9022, bluemountainwine. com) or the back room of Garces Trading Co. (1111 Locust St., 215-574-1099, garcestradingcompany. com), which the noted chef is, for some reason, allowed to operate independently. For those less interested in décor, Wine & Spirits state stores (finewineandgoodspirits.com) might do the trick.


THE BASICS

words by Patrick Rapa photo by Neal Santos

cycle city

TWO WHEELS GOOD THE UNSPOKEN DOS AND DON’TS OF BIKING IN PHILLY. Like swimming and French kissing, you can’t really be taught how to bike the streets of Philadelphia. You just gotta muster the courage, limber up and go for it. That said, you could pick up a few pointers from an elder bikesman like myself, somebody who’s loved and lost (teeth) on the half-mean streets of this city.

looking mountain bike. You want a road bike, something lightweight and maneuverable. You’ll thank me when you’re scaling Manayunk or lugging it up three flights of stairs. You might also be interested in a low-maintenance fixed-gear biked. See if you can be the first person with a fixie who shuts up about it.

Relax: More designated lanes and paths pop up every day, and you only have to share most of them with unchecked cabbies, entitled cheapskate churchgoers, kneeling buses, smug joggers taking their pulse every 10 feet and your fellow two-wheeled friends who rarely make eye contact.

Get smart: Don’t hang anything from your handlebars, unless it’s super secure. I had a bag swing into my front spokes at Eighth and Market and I flipped forward, hard, breaking an arm and a tooth. Somebody came running out of the Burger King with napkins to for my bleeding face. They smelled delicious.

Lock up: There are plenty of racks, signs and headless parking meters to which you can (double) U-lock your bike. Just give it a tug first. If you can lift the lamppost right out of the pavement, move on. And, seriously, secure both tires.

Beware of ghosts: Philly’s streets are haunted by ancient terrors. Trolley tracks should be crossed only at right-ish angles and avoided in slippery conditions. Cobblestones can warp your wheels. Horse-drawn carriages like to drop poop speed bumps throughout Old City.

Lighten up: Don’t get a mountain bike, or a hybrid, which is really just a less ridiculous-

Protect yourself: Wear a helmet. Tuck in your pant cuffs. Avoid storm drains, high curbs and

16

CITY GUIDE 2011 - 2012

low potholes — they’re murder on your spokes and genitals. Pay attention: Until you’ve learned how to interpret the vehicular body language of SEPTA buses, delivery trucks and lost tourists in rental SUVs, consider stopping at stop signs and red lights. Crazy, right? Also, avoid riding against traffic or between things that might suddenly move and squish you. And don’t bike with your headphones on. You make me nervous when you do that. Don’t trust cars: They fail to signal, they swing open doors in your path, they honk, they think bikes don’t belong on the road. Drivers are horrible monsters. Don’t trust pedestrians: They don’t trust you. And for good reason. For information on biking in Philadelphia, visit bicyclecoalition.org.


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THE BASICS

words by Holly Otterbein photos by Neal Santos

the big events

TAKING IT TO THE STREETS

FORGET INDEPENDENCE — PHILLY’S FESTIVALS MAKE A DECLARATION OF FUN. Mummers Parade One of the weirdest things about Philadelphia is the way it celebrates New Year’s Day. Hundreds of men — many of them blue-collared workers from South Philly and Fishtown — dress up in feathered, beaded and bedazzled costumes so flamboyant, Cher would blush to look at them. They then prance up Broad Street, sing, show off their floats and perform elaborate skits, all with their proud kids and wives in tow. So much for sauerkraut. Jan. 1, phillymummers.com. Kensington Kinetic Sculpture Derby Don’t confuse the Kensington Kinetic Sculpture Derby for a race. It’s not the team that finishes first that wins, but the one that gets there looking the best. That can mean anything from cruising on a Ghostbusters-themed tricycle to riding a metallic dragon on wheels while donning Amish zombie costumes. Also, the derby usually coincides with the Trenton Avenue Arts Festival, the biggest arts 18

CITY GUIDE 2011 - 2012

sale in Kenzo. So, if you can’t make your own piece of human-powered folk art, you can probably buy someone else’s. Mid-May, kinetickensington.com. Art Star Craft Bazaar In 2003, Erin Waxman and Megan Brewster, owners of the Art Star Gallery & Boutique, founded what is now one of the country’s most beloved crafting events (take that, Brooklyn). The Art Star Craft Bazaar features more than 140 vendors, live music and food over two days. And now all those hip New Yorkers drive two hours down I-95 just to get to it. Late May, artstarcraftbazaar.com. Philly Beer Week Its name may sound like an ill-conceived frat game, but Philly Beer Week is a race to develop wet brain only if you want it to be. The festival crams hundreds of beer tastings, boozy brunches, lectures and meet-the-brewer events into 10 serious days. It can be a challenge to get through

them. Here’s some advice: Don’t drink every heady brew you meet, take a day off, and drink lots of water. Early June, phillybeerweek.org. Odunde Festival Celebrating the new year once every 12 months isn’t enough for Philly. Each June, we party for the second time around, just like Nigeria’s Yoruba population does. (“Odunde” means “Happy New Year” in Yoruba.) A crowd of people saunters down South Street, throws flowers and fruit into the Schuylkill River, and then heads back to the main base for dance, theater and live music. This African festival also features great eats from Ghana, Nigeria, Senegal and Guinea — places you likely won’t be visiting soon, so get your fill now. Mid-June, odundeinc.org. West Oak Lane Jazz & Arts Festival For three sparkling days in June, North Philly feels an awful lot like N’awlins. A Mardi Grasthemed parade, a Grand Marshal, more than 40


big bands, jazz trios, jazz duos and jazz solos, plus a craft marketplace to tie it all up into a pretty bow — the West Oak Lane Jazz & Arts Festival is an honorable tribute to the Big Easy. Best of all, there’s a free citywide shuttle service schlepping people to and fro the fest — so let the good times roll. Late June, westoaklanefestival.com. Live Arts Festival & Philly Fringe Think of the Live Arts Festival as your exceedingly picky friend and Philly Fringe as the co-worker who’ll date anyone. The metaphor isn’t intended to disrespect the concurrent, 16-day performing arts bonanzas — it just means that Live Arts presents a dozen-ish curated, cream-of-the-crop, take-home-to Mom shows from around the world, and Philly Fringe features nearly 200 new, local artists who don’t go through a selection process. The latter is still jammed with talent, and it’s proof that our city doesn’t only love you when you’re hot. Sept. 2-17, livearts-fringe.org.

Philly Naked Bike Ride Some argue that Naked Bike Rides do more harm than good, further alienating bike moderates and making a worthy transportation method look like a liberals-only, wackadoodle throw-down. We at City Paper respectfully disagree. Last year’s Naked Bike Ride not only succeeded in shredding body image expectations and displaying how vulnerable bikers are, but perhaps more importantly, it was also a blast. Like a modernday Feast of Fools, its joy was in briefly, safely suspending that most sacred social norm and, just for once, doing what our inner primate would. Sept. 4, phillynakedbikeride.org. Bloktoberfest You’d think that by the end of summer, Philly would be sick of block parties. Turns out that food, beer, neighbors and music are just too simple and sweet a formula to give up. In early October, this block-party-on-steroids goes down in the GradHo

neighborhood, with autumnal craft brews, the city’s best food trucks, a 5K run and plenty of bands to keep you entertained. The weather is usually perfect, so enjoy it. Early October, bloktoberfestphilly.com. Philadelphia Film Festival The Philadelphia Film Festival was one of the first places anyone saw The Sixth Sense. And Food, Inc. And Old Partner. Never heard of the last one? That’s how a lot of films at the fest end up, but it doesn’t mean they’re not heart-wrenching, hilarious and well worth your time (like Old Partner turned out to be). Go to find the unappreciated treasures as well as the next big thing. And say happy birthday when you’re there: The Philadelphia Film Festival is celebrating its 20th anniversary this year. Mid-October, filmadelphia.org.

CITYPAPER.NET

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THE BASICS

words by Felicia D’Ambrosio photos by Neal Santos

foodie nation

OH, THE PLACES YOU’LL GO (TO EAT!) A TOUR OF SOME OF THE BEST MEAL TICKETS IN TOWN. In a perfect world, people would be able to eat out as often as they pleased. A neatly set table, smiling service, music to set the mood — dining out is a little luxury few want to resist. Over the last 20 years, Philly has been swept along on a wave of restaurant innovation, encompassing everything from elegant fine-dining palaces to humble holesin-the-wall, creating thousands of well-calibrated meals every day.

and glorious pancakes mark Café Estelle (444 N. Fourth St., 215- 925-5080, cafeestelle.com) as a daytime staple. Speaking of scrapple, Amish breakfasts aren’t complete without it at the Dutch Eating Place (Reading Terminal Market, 12th and Arch streets, readingterminalmarket.com), where a lack of buttons doesn’t stop the bearded ringmaster from keeping the counter seated and the fresh-squeezed juice flowing.

Brunch could be considered the axis upon which the whole planet of dining out turns. It’s the only meal where any class of food or beverage is fair game — the more, the better. Since cooks and servers hate it, worthy operations that don’t phone it in distinguish themselves. The years haven’t dimmed the shine of Sabrina’s (910 Christian St., 215- 574-1599, sabrinascafe.com), where the crowds wait with saintly patience for lofty, stuffed French toast. On the northern side of town, housemade scrapple, bacon, flatbreads

If you’re looking for something higher-end, nothing short of true love will do for a visit to Lacroix (210 W. Rittenhouse Square, 215-790-2533, lacroixrestaurant.com), a day-tonight destination hosting a legendarily lavish, $100-a-head Sunday brunch culminating in a chocolate fountain. Decadent evenings equally lush in décor (vegetable chic) and hyperlocal ingredients start at Talula’s Garden (210 W. Washington Square, 215-592-7787, talulasgarden. com), a new entry from farm-to-table queen Aimee

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CITY GUIDE 2011 - 2012

Olexy and king-daddy restaurateur Stephen Starr, master of the grub cartel that spawned Philadelphia’s other starry son, Jose Garces. The Iron Chef’s intimate Basque-inspired Tinto (114 S. 20th St., 215-665-9150, tintorestaurant. com) is the best of a portfolio of exciting restaurants; the same goes for Marc Vetri’s Amís (412 S. 13th St., 215-732-2647, amisphilly.com), the celebrated chef’s most affordable and rustic venture. Adventuresome palates are rewarded by the exotic flavor vocabulary of chef Mike Solomonov, who turns pristine ingredients into precise, modern Isreali plates at Zahav (237 St. James Pl., 215-625-8800, zahavrestaurant.com). Corkage? What’s that? Philadelphia boasts an entire category of fine-ish dining unknown in other cities: the BYOB, which welcome guests to tote their own Kendall-Jackson, Chateau Chichi, beer, or even hard liquor to spike house-provided mixers. There are too many great BYOs to list here;


but of the dozens, the fresh octopus, creamy baba ganouj and whole fish at the original Dmitri’s (795 S. Third St., 215-625-0556) and the gutsy Italian of Peter McAndrew’s Modo Mio (161 W. Girard Ave., 215-203-8707) stand out. Indian, Thai, Korean and Szechuan cuisines have seen an explosion of popularity in recent years. Creamy makhani chicken and fiery lamb vindaloo star at Ekta (250 E. Girard Ave., 215-426-2277, ektaindianrestaurant.com), a BYO that also delivers all over the city. Similarly, Circles (1514 Tasker St., 267-687-1778, circlesnewbold.com), home of luscious crab fried rice and pad see eew, has just added a modest dining room. Shatteringly crisp Korean fried chicken wings are worth the trip to Olney and Café Soho (468 W. Cheltenham Ave., 215-224-6800); you can order them almost as hot as Han Chiang’s face-melting fare at Han Dynasty (108 Chestnut St., 215-922-1888, handynasty.net). The sharp-tongued Chiang’s

dan dan noodles, dumplings in chili oil and crispy pork intestines have founded an obsessive, addicted following. Hate the word gastropub if you must, but there’s no denying NoLibs stalwart Standard Tap (901 N. Second St., 215- 238-0630, standardtap. com) started it all. In fine weather, their upstairs deck remains the prime spot to devour seasonal, ever-changing classics paired with all-local draft beer. Stack their burger up against the Royal Tavern’s (937 E. Passyunk Ave., 215-389-6694, royaltavern.com) brioche-wrapped beauty, but watch out for that long hot, ’cause she’s a sparker. Capturing the same warm vibe is relative newcomer Kennett (848 S. Second St., 267-687-1426, kennettrestaurant.com), which adds a fierce cocktail selection to the expected superlative draft list, to accompany chef Brian Ricci’s adept, veg-centric dishes. Just around the corner is Catahoula (775 S. Front St.,

215- 271-9300, catahoularestaurant.com), home of the most authentic oyster po’boys, gumbo and hushpuppies Philly has seen in years, as well as a steal-of-a-deal Saturday kegs ’n’ eggs special: $9 for an entrée, side and draft brew, which bring us back to where we began, with brunch. Felicia D’Ambrosio contributes to City Paper’s Meal Ticket food blog at citypaper.net/mealticket.

CITYPAPER.NET

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THE BASICS

words and photo by Patrick Rapa

the sound of philadelphia

STAGE WHISPERS A QUICK SURVEY OF PHILLY’S MOST TRUSTED MUSIC VENUES. Johnny Brenda’s 1201 N. Frankford Ave., 215-739-9684, johnnybrendas.com Telltale bookings: BC Camplight, Kurt Vile, Cults, Laura Marling. Beer: Good selection, several bars. Sound: Very good. Sightlines: Very good. Notes: JB’s is the go-to 21+ indie-pop bar. You can dance if you want to. Plenty of places to escape the music and hang out, too. Danger Danger Gallery 5013 Baltimore Ave., dangerdangergallery.com Telltale bookings: Tickley Feather, Lost in the Trees, U.S. Girls. Beer: BYO, be cool about it. Sound: Surprisingly good, always loud. Sightlines: Good luck. Notes: This is basically a house-show venue gone legit. Some great punk, indie and experimental acts come through here before you hear about them. Lots of bands you’ll never hear from again, too. The sound of West Philly. Trocadero 1003 Arch St., 215-922-6888, thetroc.com Telltale bookings: Man Man, Peter Bjorn and John, Yo La Tengo. Beer: In plastic cups, bars upstairs and down. Sound: Very good. Sightlines: Mostly good. Notes: The Troc’s a lovely old burlesque theater retrofitted for bigger 22

CITY GUIDE 2011 - 2012

all-ages general admission rock/punk/hip-hop shows. They pat you down at the door. TLA 334 South St., 215-922-1011, livenation.com Telltale bookings: The Mountain Goats, Childish Gambino, Gomez, They Might Be Giants. Beer: In plastic cups. Sound: Very good (although the pigpen bar area can get loud). Sightlines: Very good. Notes: A fine all-ages general-admission venue with a wide stage and calf-strengthening slanted floors. They pat you down at the door and chase you off the sidewalk after the show like raccoons. First Unitarian Church 2125 Chestnut St., 877-435-9849, r5productions.com Telltale bookings: Fucked Up, Toro Y Moi, Black Moth Super Rainbow, Thermals. Beer: Nope. Sound: Good. Sightlines: Be tall (or be pushy). Notes: The finest dirty, sweaty, all-ages rock shows get booked in the basement. Smaller and quieter stuff gets booked upstairs in the Sanctuary and Chapel. The crowd skews young. World Café Live 3025 Walnut St., 215-222-1400, worldcafelive.com Telltale bookings: Alo Brasil, Jolie Holland, Bilal,

Melissa Ferrick, Eels. Beer: In a glass. Sound: Very good. Sightlines: Great. Notes: Stages upstairs and downstairs put on shows by indie/ rock/folk/funk/world music/blues acts. The place is clean and friendly, and sometimes skews older/upscale. A satellite venue opened down in Wilmington, Del. Electric Factory 421 N. Seventh St., 215-627-1332, electricfactory.info Telltale bookings: Dinosaur Jr., Nas, Flogging Molly, The National Beer: Yeah, there’s a big ol’ balcony area for drinking. Sound: Not bad for a big, giant rock ’n’ roll hangar. Sightlines: Very good. Notes: This is Philly’s general-admission warehouse venue. Kung Fu Necktie 1250 N. Front St., kungfunecktie.com Telltale bookings: Bardo Pond, Japandroids, Crooked Fingers, Mr. Lif. Beer: Good. Sound: Good. Sightlines: You’ll be fine. Notes: Tiny, friendly indie-rock bar in NoLibs. North Star 2639 Poplar St., 215-787-0488, northstarbar.com Telltale bookings: Black Landlord, Eugene Mirman, Ida Maria, Alien Architect. Beer: Always good, so meet up at the bar before the show. Sound: Good. Sightlines: Stake out a spot early, shorties. Notes: The last of the ’90s indie-rock clubs, the North Star does the basics well: good beer, good music and a working-class décor that’s half-spit, half-polish. The only rock club in Fairmount.


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THE BASICS

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CITY GUIDE 2011 - 2012


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THE BASICS

words by Theresa Everline photo by Neal Santos

trail blazin’

OUTWARD BOUND FROM DOWNTOWN TO UPRIVER ALONG THE BANKS OF THE MIGHTY SCHUYLKILL. Want to feel both in the city and somehow not in it? Want to get a sense for how the Schuylkill River functions as Philly’s backbone? Then walk, jog or cycle the section of the Schuylkill River Trail that runs from downtown to the neighborhood of East Falls, the whole path hugging the river’s east side.

215-685-0723, fairmountwaterworks.org), where in the early 19th century steam engines and water wheels pumped the river’s water into reservoirs. The stately building now houses an interpretive center and a fancy restaurant (215-236-9000, waterworksrestaurant.com).

To pick up the trail’s southernmost point, go to 25th and Locust streets and cross the railroad tracks. Shortly after you turn north onto the trail you’ll encounter the Schuylkill Banks Center (215-222-6030, schuylkillbanks.org), which offers information and activities such as guided kayak tours. As you cross beneath Walnut and Market streets (which have access ramps to the trail), you can see beautiful views of 30th Street Station across the river and the Philadelphia Museum of Art perched on its hill ahead.

A short ways on sits Lloyd Hall, where you’ll find the breakfast-and-lunch spot Cosmic Café (1 Boathouse Row, 215-978-0900, cosmicfoods. com), along with bathrooms, drinking fountains and most likely skaters with boom boxes. Next you can get a close look at the not-lit-up side of famed Boathouse Row.

After a brief ascent, you’ll circle around the base of the hill that holds lovely, steep paths to the museum. Here on the trail’s left side is the Water Works (640 Waterworks Drive, 26

CITY GUIDE 2011 - 2012

From this point, with Kelly Drive now on your right, you begin to leave the city behind. The Schuylkill Expressway’s traffic jams across the river recede behind trees. Things become very, very green. Public artworks dot this stretch of the trail, including sculpture terraces with monumental-

looking representations of the laborers of Philly’s past. Up ahead, notice the high arches and iron latticework of the Strawberry Mansion Bridge, originally built to carry trolley cars. Then, as you approach Kelly Drive’s intersection with Hunting Park Avenue, you’ll see a sampling of Laurel Hill Cemetery’s amazing mausoleums perched high on the bluff on your right (3822 Ridge Ave., 215-228-8200, thelaurelhillcemetery.org). Well worth a visit in itself, Laurel Hill is the final resting place of many prominent Philadelphians (David Rittenhouse, anyone?). You’ve made it about five miles so far, and East Falls is just ahead. Stop at the intersection with Ferry Road and check out the little metal cutout signs depicting fish that populate the river. Looming above, the twin bridges carry Route 1’s traffic. Just ahead on the trail is the Falls Bridge, where you can cross the Schuylkill and head back to the city on Martin Luther King Jr. Drive. But you’ve just had a pretty good workout, right? A stone’s throw away in a century-old building, the Trolley Car Café (3269 S. Ferry Road, 267-385-6703, trolleycardiner.com/cafe) offers good food, a sunny patio, bathrooms and a wall map of the area — where you’ll see more trails to explore.


THE BASICS

words by Felicia D’Ambrosio photo by Neal Santos

green living

VEGGING OUT YOUR GUIDE TO PRODUCE-HUNTING IN THE 215. Expensive to make and highly prized throughout history, meat has occupied the center of our plates since Americans surmounted the privations of the Depression and World War II. It is only recently that research has indicated heavy consumption of animal protein is detrimental to one’s health — not to mention the health of the animal — and that we should instead fill our plates with plant matter. Fortunately for Philadelphia vegivores, produce has hit prime time and dozens of shopkeepers across the city are ready for their closeups. Stretching dollars comes naturally in the Italian Market (South Ninth Street between Washington and Christian), where dozens of vendors offer conventionally grown produce along the historic curb market. Scott & Judy’s (911 S. Ninth St., 215-922-1396) is the best of the lot; otherwise, be discerning and use everything right away. Better quality and a wildly diverse selection of vendors characterize the bustling Reading Terminal Market (12th and Arch streets, readingterminalmarket.org), where juggernaut Iovine Brothers Produce (215-928-4366, iovine. com) stocks everything the green earth grows. Hung Vuong Super Market (1122 Washington Ave., 215-336-2803) has great prices and

interesting Asian offerings, while Sue’s Produce (114 S. 18th St., 215-241-0102) boasts a devoted Center City following and a mix of tropical, local and conventional goods. If local and organic are your plant priority, you can shake the hands that grew the food at yearround farmers markets at Rittenhouse Square (18th and Walnut streets, Saturdays, 9:30 a.m.-3 p.m.) and Clark Park (43rd Street and Baltimore Avenue, Saturdays, 10 a.m.-2 p.m.). Through the growing season, the finest organic vegetables a celebrity chef can command are on sale at swanky, cult-y Headhouse Farmers Market (Second and Lombard streets, Sundays, 10 a.m.-2 p.m., MayDecember). Visit farmtocity.org and thefoodtrust. org for seasonal schedules and the locations of dozens more markets all over the city. The Fair Food Farmstand (Reading Terminal Market, fairfoodphilly.org) carries the local-est of locally grown goods year-round right in the center of town; Green Aisle Grocery (1618 E. Passyunk Ave., 215-465-1411, greenaislegrocery.com) and Milk & Honey Market (4425 Baltimore Ave., 215387-6455, milkandhoneymarket.com) hold down the role in the north, south and west, respectively.

Committed produce hounds should consider joining a CSA (community supported agriculture) in April; the model provides small, sustainable farms with much-needed capital in the beginning of the season in exchange for a weekly share of its production. Some of the best include Lancaster Farm Fresh (lancasterfarmfresh.com), Culton Organics (3683 Marietta Ave., Silver Spring, Pa., 717-285-4064) and Greensgrow Farms (2501 E. Cumberland St., 215- 427-2702, greensgrow.org), an urban farm operating both summer and winter CSAs as well as a Saturday farmers market during the growing season. Visit localharvest.org and enter your ZIP code to find dozens more CSAs in the area. Got outdoor space and at least six hours of sunshine? Grow your own edibles with help from indie nurseries far and wide: Greensgrow has seeds, plants, good advice and weekly workshops, while Urban Jungle (1526 E. Passyunk Ave., 215-952-0811, urbanjunglephila.com) and City Planter (814 N. Fourth St., 215-627-6169, cityplanter.com) are equipped with everything you’ll need to get going.

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THE BASICS

words by Holly Otterbein photo by Neal Santos

gallery hopping

THE EXHIBITIONISTS TIPS ON GETTING THE MOST OUT OF PHILLY’S ARTS-CENTERED FIRST FRIDAYS. On First Fridays, which occur each month exactly when you think they do, arts spaces extend their hours and often offer special programs. The list of participating venues is long and can vary each time, but here are some starting points for negotiating the festivities. Gallery Joe It’s like your English teacher always said: Before you break the rules, learn them. In the case of First Friday, that means heading to Old City, where Philadelphia’s monthly arts event was born in the ’90s. Here you’ll find wine, cheese and a thriving, surprisingly weird community of vendors, firebreathers and other street performers — and, in the case of Gallery Joe, a solid lineup of abstract, subtle, still art. First Fridays, 6-8 p.m., free, 302 Arch St., 215-592-7752, galleryjoe.com. Institute of Contemporary Art Sounds obvious, but the Institute of Contemporary Art is the best place to find contemporary work in the city. Recent exhibitions have featured Sheila Hicks’ satisfyingly odd fiber pieces, an Andy Warhol retrospective, native son Anthony Campuzano’s word art, and an otherworldly Sun Ra celebration. While you’re at it, don’t miss the contemporary art you’re literally inside of: The museum’s building is a 1960s beauty with big windows and even bigger views. Usually first Thursdays, 6-8 p.m., free, 118 S. 36th Street, 215-898-7108, icaphilly.org. 28

CITY GUIDE 2011 - 2012

Philadelphia Museum of Art Especially for beginners, the Philadelphia Museum of Art — one of the largest museums in the country, and one of the city’s greatest accomplishments to this day — can be a lot to take in. A good place to start is Art After 5, where you’ll catch jazz, world music, cocktails and snacks on the magnificent stairwell inside. Usually, only a few of the museum’s galleries are open at this hour — all the better for avoiding visual-art overload. First Fridays, 5-8:45 p.m., free with admission ($12-$16), 2600 Ben Franklin Parkway, 215-7638100, philamuseum.org. Crane Arts Building Kill lots of birds with one stone at the Crane Arts Building. This beautifully restored Kensington warehouse is home to several galleries: the Ice Box, InLiquid, Indigo Arts, NEXUS, Philadelphia Photo Arts Center and UD. On any given Friday, you’ll find folk art, the city’s best photography, puppet shows and mind-bending videos here — something for everyone. Usually First Fridays, 6-9 p.m., free, 1400 N. American St., 215-232-3203, cranearts.com. Fleisher-Ollman Gallery Fleisher-Ollman Gallery won its laurels in ’60s, ’70s and ’80s for exhibiting the world’s best selftaught artists. Since then, the space has loosened its mission and embraced conventionally educated folks, too, but it hasn’t lost a bit of its

individualism. The imaginative themes that curators impose on the art here — “useless” art, photographs re-imagined into other mediums, “I Don’t Watch the Internet” — are often just as pleasing as the works themselves. Usually Fridays, 6-9 p.m., free, 1616 Walnut St., Suite 100, 215-545-7562, fleisher-ollmangallery.com. FLUXspace The FLUXspace is an unconventional gallery. For one thing, it’s in North Philly. For another, the building was once a textile mill warehouse — which, compared to a place like the Crane Arts Building, hasn’t been all that fixed up. Plus, it floods sometimes and doesn’t have air conditioning. Embrace these flaws. They are more than worth it given the thought-provoking and often hilarious art that’s exhibited here. A recent event, for example, was called the North Philadelphia Puberty Survivors Support Forum. Usually Fridays and Saturdays, 5-7 p.m., free, 1000 N. Hope St., 914-806-4889, thefluxspace.org. Look for First Friday coverage in City Paper’s A&E section, citypaper.net/arts.


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THE BASICS

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on the road

THE GETAWAYS A TRIPTYCH OF QUICK TRIPS ON A TANK OF GAS OR LESS. Itinerary 1: Take a tour of the Jersey Shore. You’re not a true Philadelphian till you do what all residents of this city do on summer weekends: leave. Join the masses and go down the shore — from historic Cape May (capemay.com) and family-friendly (read: alcohol-free) Ocean City (ocnj.us) to the wild, wild Wildwoods (wildwoodsnj.com) and casino-riffic Atlantic City (atlanticcitynj.com). Don’t miss strange tourist attractions like Lucy the Elephant in Margate (lucytheelephant.org, margate-nj.com) and the Jersey Shore house in Seaside Heights (seaside-heightsnj.org); and be sure to grab a giant slice of pizza at Mack & Manco in the O.C. (mackandmancos.com) and a Kohr Bros. frozen custard (kohrbros.com) for dessert. If you’re looking for a taste of new-school Atlantic City nightlife, head to the brand-new Diving Horse Cabaret and Steakhouse (divinghorseclub. com); for a taste of home, make reservations at — no relation — Avalon’s The Diving Horse (thedivinghorseavalon.com, avalonbeach.com), owned by the folks behind acclaimed Philly gastropub Pub & Kitchen. 30

CITY GUIDE 2011 - 2012

Itinerary 2: Nobody knows snow like the Poconos. In the winter months, drive two hours northwest into the heart of the Pocono Mountains (800poconos.com), where snowboarding, skiing and nice, warm mugs of hot cocoa await. If you’re looking for a little history with your winter sports, visit Jim Thorpe ( jimthorpe.org); hamlets like Stroudsburg (stroudsburg.net) and Delaware Water Gap (nps.gov/dewa) are more rustic. Should you seek a shady summertime escape, the Poconos are chock-full of hiking and biking trails (poconobiking.com), kayaking and rafting waters (poconowhitewater.com), plus shopping, B&Bs and plenty of restaurants — including the Water Gap’s Village Farmer (villagefarmer.com), where hot dogs and pie are always on special. Itinerary 3: Get your shop on in New Hope. An easy 45-minute ride up I-95, New Hope (newhopepa.com) is known for its quaint rows of shops and restaurants, ranging from art galleries to homemade ice cream to antiques. But don’t let the old-fashioned charm fool you: This little

town’s got plenty of quirk, too, from Mystical Times’ selection of Wiccan greeting cards (mysticaltimes.com) to Le Chateau Exotique’s vast array of S&M accoutrements (fetishwear. com). Looking for something tamer? Load the kids onto the old-timey New Hope & Ivyland Railroad (newhoperailroad.com), which hosts song and story-hour rides, or hit up New Hope Winery (newhopewinery.com) with the grownups for tastings, tours and live music. If the weather’s nice, take a stroll along the Delaware Canal towpath, which extends 60 miles from Easton to Bristol; if it rains, stick to Main Street for optimal awning-protected window shopping. One the way home, swing by Yardley for a hypermodern dinner at Charcoal (charcoalbyob.com) — but remember, it’s a BYOB, so you’ll have to come armed with alcohol. Good thing you stopped at that winery.


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THE BASICS

words by Josh Middleton photo by Neal Santos

the lgbt queue

OUT ON THE TOWN YOU’RE HERE. YOU’RE QUEER. LET’S DO THIS. Don’t fret, young gay transient! Philadelphia isn’t entirely made up of macho sports fans and figurebusting cheesesteaks. Here thrives an LGBTQ community that’s just as embraced by city dwellers as the lost-its-ding-dong Liberty Bell. I mean, come on, we have a whole neighborhood named after us. Nightlife The Gayborhood is your safest bet for a wellrounded gay night on the town. If you like your drinks strong and your men well-aged, start at Uncles (1220 Locust St., 215-546-6660, unclesupstairsinn.com) for cocktails that are stiff and cheap. For the next stop, it’s all about what (or who) you’re looking for. Get your dance on with guy-next-door types at hood mainstay Woody’s (202 S. 13th St., 215-545-1893, woodysbar.com), sing a ditty with artsier queens in the piano lounge at Tavern on Camac (243 S. Camac St., 215-545-0900, tavernoncamac.com), or brush hairy elbows with leather-bound daddy bears in the dungeonesque Bike Stop (206 S. Quince St., 215-627-1662, thebikestop.com). If you think dudes are icky, Sisters (1320 Chancellor St., 215-735-0735, sistersnightclub.com) overflows with enough lesbians to make your head spin. Festivals Sure, we have a summertime Pride Parade and Festival (phillypride.org) with marches and parties out the ying-yang, but our LGBTQ-

honoring festivities don’t stop there. Every spring, the weeklong Equality Forum (equalityforum. com) hosts a responsible itinerary of discussions, film screenings and get-togethers geared toward propelling the national gay rights movement. When fall rolls around, OutFest (phillypride. org) celebrates National Coming Out Day with a massive street party in the Gayborhood. And Queers of the Avenue is a popular monthly happy hour along one of Philly’s newest gay corridors, East Passyunk Avenue, which in the warmer months spills out into the streets — block-party style. Shopping A multitude of gay-owned businesses keep Philly’s commerce community booming. Lesbian couple Marcie Turney and Valerie Safran run six businesses in Midtown Village, including upscale noshery Grocery (101 S. 13th St., 215-922-5252, grocery13.com); modern home goods shop Open House (107 S. 13th St., 215-922-1415, openhouseliving.com); and Verde (108 S. 13th St., 215-546-8700, verdephiladelphia. com), an earthy purveyor of accessories and artisanal chocolates. Keep your closet fresh with up-to-date threads from Matthew Izzo’s unisex fashion boutique (111 S. 12th St., 215-829-0606, matthewizzo.com) and Metro Men’s Clothing (1615 E. Passyunk Ave., 267-324-5172, metromensclothing.com). And your queer lit collection will look a lot sexier

with a few purchases from Ed Hermance’s Giovanni’s Room (345 S. 12th St., 215-9232960, giovannisroom.com). His cozy, two-level book nook is the oldest LGBTQ bookstore in the country. Community Outreach Whether you’re volunteering or utilizing their services, getting involved with any of Philly’s gay-oriented nonprofits is your key to becoming a vital member of the local queer scene. The William Way Community Center (1315 Spruce St., 215-732-2220, waygay.org) provides educational resources meant to bridge societal gaps between the different groups that comprise the LGBTQ spectrum. Spring chickens between the ages of 18 and 23 can take advantage of a variety of gay-youth-empowering activities offered at the Attic Youth Center (255 S. 16th St., 215-545-4331, atticyouthcenter.org). And the Mazzoni Center (21 S. 12th St., 215-5630652, mazzonicenter.org) is an abundant medical resource agency — providing everything from free HIV testing to health care for those without coverage. Tip: Remember these places when you’re feeling charitable. Look for Josh Middleton’s column, “Queer Bait,” every other week in the Agenda section of City Paper.

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THE BASICS

words by Patrick Rapa

photo by Neal Santos

home teams

FIELDERS’ CHOICE PHILLY’S FULL OF GOOD SPORTS AND BOISTEROUS FANS. Flyers Sport: Hockey. Colors: Orange, black, white. Venue: Wells Fargo Center. Unofficial Motto: Everybody Hurts. Defining Fan Moment: The time that drunk dude fell in the penalty box and fought Tie Domi. Notes: The Flyers have a reputation for tough play, annual playoff appearances and season-ending disappointment. The franchise won its two (only) Stanley Cups in ’74 and ’75, back when Bobby Clarke, Bernie Parent and the Broad Street Bullies were punching the entire NHL (and the Russian Red Army) in the face. Since then, the Flyers have come close a few times and almost come close a lot. But this could be their year. I say that every year. Eagles Sport: Football. Colors: Green, silver, white. Venue: Lincoln Financial Field. Unofficial Motto: E-A-G-, etc. Defining Fan Moment: Throwing snowballs at Santa in 1968. We’ve never lived it down. Notes: The Eagles have never won the Super Bowl, but their fans are insufferably cocky anyway, always chanting, strategizing and basically strutting around like temporarily embarrassed champions. That said, the team is usually pretty fun to watch and the tailgating scene is the best in the country. 34

CITY GUIDE 2011 - 2012

Sixers Sport: Basketball. Colors: Red, white, blue. Venue: Wells Fargo Center. Unofficial Motto: We miss you. Defining Fan Moment: It’s been a while since this team has had fans or moments. Notes: Long gone are the days of Dr. J, Charles Barkley and Allen Iverson. These days the once-proud 76ers have stars you never heard of, like the tall dude, the old guy and the kid with the weird voice. Plenty of good seats still available.

not to use our hands. Defining Fan Moment: The Union’s fan club, The Sons of Ben, predates the team by three years and sets a high standard for enthusiasm and creative/crude chanting. There’s nothing like thousands of voices uniting to say “Fuck you asshole!” Many times a game. Notes: The surprise hit of the Philly sports world: Games are well attended and people are buying the jerseys (even though they advertise Bimbo baking company right on the front).

Phillies Sport: Baseball. Colors: Red, white, a little blue. Venue: Citizens Bank Park. Unofficial Motto: World Fucking Champions! Defining Fan Moment: Is it the Tasing at centerfield or that dude who barfed on a kid on purpose? Notes: The bad news is that the 128-year-old Phillies are, arguably, the losingest pro franchise ever, having reached 10,000 losses in 2007. The good news: They won their second World Series in 2008 (the other one coming in 1980), and thanks to a killer starting rotation will probably always win from now on.

See Also: Wings: Home games for our long-standing indoor lacrosse team have a strange, family-friendly/ Roman Colosseum vibe. Roller Girls/Penn Jersey Roller Derby: Yes, Philly has two indie all-girl roller derby leagues. Soul: Our on-again/off-again indoor football team, formerly owned by Bon Jovi. Liberty Belles: This women’s tackle football team plays in Ambler. Independence: A women’s pro-soccer team based in Chester. Kixx: Our indoor men’s soccer team still exists. Philadelphia Freedoms: Wow, we have a tennis team?

Union Sport: Soccer. Colors: Blue, gold. Venue: PPL Park (in Chester). Motto: We always remember


THE HOODS IT’S WHERE WE LIVE


location Grays Ferry Avenue and Pemberton Street

photo by Neal Santos


CITY OF NEIGHBORLY LOVE

mount airy /chestnut hill /germantown oak lane /olney

Yeah, yeah, the “Philadelphia is a city of neighborhoods” claim is a bit of a cliché; after all, aren’t all major metropolises made up of tinier parts? But in Philly, it’s true. Partially because the city itself was, once upon a time, cobbled together from a collection of self-governing municipalities. Which could be why many retain distinct flavors. When you step back, zoom out and take Philly for all that it is — bike-friendly, boutique-heavy, foodie-centric, diverse and much greener than you might think — you start to realize that this particular cliché is one to be proud of.

northeast philly

roxborough manayunk east falls north philly west philly

center city

The following pages contain a selective listing of things to do and places to be. Is there more to discover? Absolutely. But we can only hold your hand for so long.

south philly

southwest philly

off - road bicycle routes

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THE HOODS

photos by Neal Santos

National Mechanics

OLD CITY/WASHINGTON SQUARE WEST HOBBLE HOME ON THE COBBLESTONES.

22 S. Third St., 215-701-4883, nationalmechanics.com

Maintains a buzzy mystique thanks to lush decor and a rich wooden bar. The Plough & the Stars

123 Chestnut St., 215-733-0300

Occupying the commercial riverside streets between Chestnut and Vine, Front and Fifth, Old City is undoubtedly the cityâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most beautiful and historic neighborhood, home to Independence Hall, Christ Church and the cobblestoned side streets where Founding Fathers lived. That said, on weekend nights itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a roadkill fiesta of the drunken and the clueless. Stick to weeknights for bar-hopping â&#x20AC;&#x201D; or prepare accordingly. From its namesake park at Sixth and Walnut, Washington Square West fans out from Lombard to Chestnut and extends westward to 10th Street; think of it as a quieter, refined sister to mouthy Old City.

YOU SHOULD KNOW â&#x20AC;Ś The Old City District (oldcitydistrict.org) is a great go-to website for resident and visitor info â&#x20AC;&#x201D; plus, it coined the phrase â&#x20AC;&#x153;Hipstoric.â&#x20AC;? Until January 2012, Councilman Frank DiCicco (215686-3458) runs the First District.

WHILE YOUâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;RE HERE â&#x20AC;Ś Ä&#x160;Ĺ&#x2014;))*Ĺ&#x2014;."Ĺ&#x2014;)&Ä&#x161; -"#)(Ĺ&#x2014;-.3&Ĺ&#x2014;(Ĺ&#x2014;&),.Ĺ&#x2014; sundaes at Franklin Fountain Ä&#x160;Ĺ&#x2014; ,(Ĺ&#x2014;Ĺ&#x2014;."#(!Ĺ&#x2014;),Ĺ&#x2014;.1)Ĺ&#x2014;.Ĺ&#x2014;."Ĺ&#x2014;(1Ĺ&#x2014;National Museum of American Jewish History Ä&#x160;Ĺ&#x2014;,0&Ĺ&#x2014;."Ĺ&#x2014;!&&,3Ĺ&#x2014;#,/#.Ĺ&#x2014;.Ĺ&#x2014;First Friday, but go easy on that free wine, â&#x20AC;&#x2122;kay? Ä&#x160;Ĺ&#x2014; *Ĺ&#x2014;,-.Ĺ&#x2014;) Ĺ&#x2014; -"#)(Ĺ&#x2014;1#."Ĺ&#x2014;Reward Boutique, Sugarcube and Third Street Habit Ä&#x160;Ĺ&#x2014; .Ä&#x201C;-Ĺ&#x2014;'-#"Ĺ&#x2014;ÄĄ*,.3Ĺ&#x2014;.#'ĢĹ&#x2014;1#."Ĺ&#x2014;."Ĺ&#x2014;'),(Ĺ&#x2014; Israeli cuisine at Zahav

Eulogy Belgian Tavern

A go-to Old City spot for brews, cocktails and Irish fare. Race Street CafĂŠ

208 Race St., 215-627-6181

This gastropubby oasis has a beer-snob-friendly tap selection and upper-middle-class sandwiches.

EXPLORE â&#x20AC;Ś BARS + CLUBS Beneluxx Tasting Room

Sheer (Swanky Bubbles)

Each table is outfitted with a tiny glass-rinser. It comes in handy, as this is a place where virtually everything is available by the taste.

Sugar Momâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s

33 S. Third St., 215-413-1918, beneluxx.com

136 Chestnut St., 215-413-1918, eulogybar.com

Skeletons always look like theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re smiling, and at Eulogy, you get the feeling itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s because theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re actually enjoying themselves. Khyber Pass Pub

56 S. Second St., 215-238-5888, thekhyber.com

This storied music venue/craft beer havenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s reinvented itself as a Southern-styled comfortfoodery, still keeping a strong focus on the brews. Macâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Tavern

226 Market St., 215-922-0522, macsphilly.com

For the record, this bar does not serve milk steak.

10 S. Front St., 215-928-1200, swankybubbles.com

This Old City spot recently got a makeover from the folks behind the TV series Bar Rescue. 225 Church St., 215-925-8219, myspace.com/sugarmoms

Drink prices here are a practice in fairness, as is the dirt-cheap bar menu. Triumph Brewing Co.

117-121 Chestnut St., 215-625-0855, triumphbrewing.com

The beers here are quaffable crowd-pleasers. Varga Bar

941 Spruce St., 215-627-5200, vargabar.com

A neighborhood pub in Washington Square West with all-American food and drink. Amada

217 Chestnut St., 215-625-2450, amadarestaurant.com

Iron Chef Jose Garcesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; knockout Spanish eatery does tapas with a touch of style.

CITYPAPER.NET

39


Café Ole

147 N. Third St., 215-627-2140

Perfect spot to stop and relax while sipping on an herb-infused iced tea. Chifa

707 Chestnut St., 215-925-5555, chifarestaurant.com

Jose Garces celebrates the one-of-a-kind amalgam of Peruvian and Cantonese cooking at this popular Chestnut Street hot spot. Chloe

232 Arch St., 215-629-2337, chloebyob.com

Delicious food, great service and — for the first time in its 10-year history — a credit card machine. The Continental

138 Market St., 215-923-6069, continentalmartinibar.com

The original star in the Stephen Starr empire. Cooperage

Curtis Center, 601 Walnut St., 215-226-COOP, cooperagephilly.com

Tucked inside the western edge of the Curtis Center, Cooperage specializes in wine, whiskey and Southern-inflected food. Delicatessen

703 Chestnut St., 215-923-4560, delicatessenphilly.com

Their slogan: “You eat, and then 72 hours later, you’re hungry.” The Foodery

324 S. 10th St., 215-928-1111, fooderybeer.com

When Philadelphians crave good beer, they crave this vast menu of imports and microbrews, available for takeout by the bottle or six-pack. Fork

306 Market St., 215-625-9425, forkrestaurant.com

Fork has pioneered a farm-to-table mentality, adding an artisanal edge with hand-crafted pasta, bread, charcuterie and smoked fish. Franklin Fountain

116 Market St., 215-627-1899, franklinfountain.com

A throwback corner ice cream saloon in Old City. Han Dynasty

108 Chestnut St., 215-922-1888, handynasty.net

Han Dynasty serves Sichuan food and considers proper spicing (read: all the way up to napalm level) its raison d’être. Kanella

266 S. 10th St., 215-922-1773

The Cypriot menu is based around gimmick-free simplicity — chef/owner Konstantinos Pitsillides works with organic free-range meats, from quail and rabbit to baby lamb and goat; he also offers locally sourced fish daily. Maru Global Takoyaki

255 S. 10th St., 267-273-0567, maruphilly.com

This modest, mostly takeout restaurant ]specializes in takoyaki, the snacky little dough balls ubiquitous on the streets of Ryo’s hometown of Tokyo. Morimoto

723 Chestnut St., 215-413-9070, morimotorestaurant.com

This is what happens when famed Iron Chef


Masaharu Morimoto collaborates with famed restaurant mogul Stephen Starr. Old City Coffee

221 Church St., 215-629-9292

A hot spot for Old City denizens who like to linger on the outdoor tables along Church Street. Revolution House

200 Market St., 215-625-4566

The transformation from corner diner to swanky roof-decked restaurant is nothing short of incredible. Talula’s Garden

210 W. Washington Square, 215-592-7787, talulasgarden.com

From the bread service to the dessert, this Stephen Starr collabo hits consistent high notes. Wedge + Fig

160 N. Third St., 215-238-1716, wedgeandfig.com

A newcomer to Third Street, Wedge + Fig features an extensive cheese case, delightfully light lunch items and sweet treats to ruin that healthy lunch you just ate. Zahav

247 St. James Place, 215-625-8800, zahavrestaurant.com

Small plates include raw ground lamb and a flavorful Moroccan-style fish stew; a tasting menu is available on Thursday evenings. Zento

138 Chestnut St., 215-925-9998, zentocontemporary.com

Sushi’s 15 minutes of fame may be over in Old City, but Zento remains a classy spot to grab tasty, thoughtfully prepared maki. LIVE MUSIC Tin Angel

20 S. Second St., 215-928-0978, tinangel.com

Situated above Serrano restaurant, this cozy Old City hideaway is home to mellow rock acts. ARTS + CULTURE Arden Theatre Co.

40 N. Second St., 215-922-1122, ardentheatre.org

The Arden offers a little bit of everything — from well-known musicals to world premières. AxD Gallery

265 S. 10th St., 215-627-6250, a-x-d.com/gallery

National Museum of American Jewish History

55 N. Fifth St., 215-923-3811, nmajh.org

The newest addition to Independence Mall celebrates the history and influence of Jews in America. Olde City Tattoos

44 S. Second St., 215-627-6271, oldecitytattoo.com

Painted Bride Art Center

230 Vine St., 215-925-9914, paintedbride.org

With its tiled mosaic exterior, the 250-seat theater is all about art, inside and out. The Bride hosts theater, dance, music, poetry and art shows. Ritz East

125 S. Second St., 215-925-7900, landmarktheatres.com

One of three neighborhood cinemas in the ’hood showing strictly indie fare. St. Stephen’s Theatre

923 Ludlow St., 215-829-9002, lanterntheater.org

This venue houses the Lantern Theater Co., which has been nominated for dozens of Barrymore awards during its 13-year residence in Philadelphia. Temple Gallery

259 N. Third St., 215-782-2776, temple.edu/tyler

Ven and Vaida Gallery

18 S. Third St., 215-592-4099, venandvaida.com

This Old City gallery is committed to bringing their clients the edgiest jewelry on the market, both modern and period pieces. Walnut Street Theatre

825 Walnut St., 215-574-3550, walnutstreettheatre.org

The oldest theater in the country celebrates its 202nd birthday this year. Wexler Gallery

205 N. Third St., 215-923-7030, wexlergallery.com

SHOPPING AKA Music

27 N. Second St., 215-922-3855

New and used CDs and vinyl, plus hard-to-find items and friendly, knowledgeable staff. Art in the Age

116 N. Third St., 215-922-2600, artintheage.com

315 Chestnut St., 215-925-2222, chemheritage.org

Artist-made T-shirts, playful dresses and Old World-inspired bags abound at this old-school boutique/gallery space. It’s even got its own brands of liquor — the root beer-inspired ROOT and the gingery SNAP.

The Clay Studio

Book Trader

Gallery Joe

A cozy used-books hub worth spending an afternoon or a lifetime wandering through.

Betsy Ross House

239 Arch St., 215-686-1252, betsyrosshouse.org

Chemical Heritage Foundation

139 N. Second St., 215-925-3453, theclaystudio.org 304 Arch St., 215-592-7752, galleryjoe.com

Locks Gallery

7 N. Second St., 215-925-0517

Brave New Worlds

600 Washington Sq., 215-629-1000, locksgallery.com

45 N. Second St., 215-925-6525, bravenewworldscomics.com

National Constitution Center

This comics shop doubles as a gallery showcasing local graphic artists.

525 Arch St., 215-409-6600, constitutioncenter.org

HAPPY HOUR PROMO Monday – Friday 5pm – 7pm $6 Svedka Cocktails $6 House Wines $6 Champagne Cocktails $3 Domestics $5 Food Menu Chicken Dumplings Chicken Spring Rolls Calamari Spicy Tuna Maki California Maki

SUPER SAKE SUNDAYS $7 Can Sapporo $5 House Sake

DeTours

22 N. Third St., 267-324-5408, detourstouring.com

See Philly from a whole new perspective with

10 South Front St, Philadelphia. 215-928-1200


THE HOODS: OLD CITY/WASHINGTON SQUARE WEST

DeTours, offering Segway, running and bike excursions for small groups. Hana & Posy

35 N. Third St., 215-733-0505, hanaposy.com

Go green with this organic eco-friendly florist and one-stop gift shop featuring everything from baby to beauty. Jonathan Adler

33 N. Third St., 215-574-1999, jonathanadler.com

Transform your home with chic accessories and furniture from this acclaimed interior designer with an eye for quirky elegance. Lost + Found

133 N. Third St., 215-928-1311

This Old City nook features new and vintage clothing, accessories, shoes and jewelry for men and women. Reward Boutique

55 N. Second St., 267-773-8675, rewardproject.com

Carefully curated brands for guys and gals, includ#(!Ĺ&#x2014;(#'Ĺ&#x2014;3Ĺ&#x2014; Ĺ&#x2014;(Ĺ&#x2014;$1&,3Ĺ&#x2014;3Ĺ&#x2014;"# Ĺ&#x2014;Ä&#x2039;Ĺ&#x2014;(#.Ä&#x201E; Sazz Vintage

38 N. Third St., 215-923-SAZZ, sazzvintage.com

Except for one â&#x20AC;&#x153;girlfriend rack,â&#x20AC;? Philly native Amanda Saslowâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s vintage boutique is entirely devoted to guys who can rock a powder-blue tux. Scarlett Alley

237 Race St., 215-592-7898, scarlettalley.com

This boutique has great service and an even greater inventory featuring jewelry, homeware, spa essentials and gifts for everyone from newborns to brides-to-be.

42

CITY GUIDE 2011 - 2012

Sioux Zanne Messix

Wolf of Walnut Street

This lovely boutique is filled with one-of-a-kind vintage items and brand-new brands â&#x20AC;&#x201D; and plenty of pink.

A full-service retail jewelry store for when you need to buy your sweetie something sweet â&#x20AC;&#x201D; and shiny.

Smak Parlour

PARKS + REC Christ Church

54 1/2 N. Third St., 215-928-9250

219 Market St., 215-625-4551, smakparlour.com

Phillyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s pinkest building features handmade piec-Ĺ&#x2014; 3Ĺ&#x2014; +/&&3Ĺ&#x2014; -*,%&3Ĺ&#x2014; )1(,-Ĺ&#x2014; 3Ĺ&#x2014; --&,Ĺ&#x2014; (Ĺ&#x2014; .#Ĺ&#x2014; ) ./-Ä&#x201E;Ĺ&#x2014; Spirit of Philadelphia

123 Chestnut St., Fourth Floor, 215-627-3331, spiritofphiladelphia.com

Book a dinner or lunch cruise on the newly renovated Spirit of Philadelphia, complete with an under-lit dancefloor, LED lighting and more. Sugarcube

124 N. Third St., 215-238-0825, sugarcube.us

The reigning Old City pretty girl with all the cool, expensive clothes, Sugarcube will satisfy your SoHo shopping craving and then some. Three Sirens Boutique

134 N. Third St., 215-925-3548, threesirens.com

Trendy and reasonably priced with great service, this boutique is a girlâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s best friend. Third Street Habit Boutique

153 N. Third St., 215-925-5455, thirdstreethabit.com

This chic designer shop just launched an online store â&#x20AC;&#x201D; get out that credit card. Vagabond Boutique

37 N. Third St., 267-671-0737, vagabondboutique.com

The definitive little-black-dress-with-a-twist stop features vintage, designer and organic pieces.

737 Walnut St., 215-925-3025

20 N. American St., 215-922-1695, christchurchphila.org

Franklin Square

200 N. Sixth St., historicphiladelphia.org

Independence National Historical Park Sixth and Market streets, 800-537-7676, independencevisitorcenter.com

Sweat Gym

45 N. Third St., 215-923-8763, sweatfitness.com

Washington Square Park 210 W. Washington Square, 215-592-7787


THE HOODS

photos by Neal Santos

RITTENHOUSE/CENTER CITY WEST MEET ME ON THE QUAD. Center City West â&#x20AC;&#x201D; with Rittenhouse at its center â&#x20AC;&#x201D; encompasses everything from Broad Street to the hard-to-pronounce Schuylkill (say it: SKOO-kul) River, Lombard Street to Market. Walnut Street serves as our Rodeo Drive, lined with retail opportunities from M.A.C. to Barneyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Co-op. Resident bluenoses rub shoulders with the masses enjoying the greenery of Rittenhouse Square, making it the cityâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s top people-watching spot. If Barneyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s isnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t in your budget, head north toward majorly discounted shopping at Daffyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s, Second Time Around consignment and the funky, trashy shops of Chestnut Street.

YOU SHOULD KNOW â&#x20AC;Ś Visit Rittenhouse Row (rittenhouserow.org) for info on shopping, dining and real estate. If you live in the Second District, Anna Verna (215-686-3412) is your City Councilwoman through 2011.

WHILE YOUâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;RE HERE â&#x20AC;Ś Ä&#x160;)(Ĺ&#x2014;3)/,Ĺ&#x2014;-"-Ĺ&#x2014;.)Ĺ&#x2014;.%Ĺ&#x2014;#(Ĺ&#x2014;."Ĺ&#x2014;-(Ĺ&#x2014;.Ĺ&#x2014;,#.43Ĺ&#x2014; Parc Restaurant on the square Ä&#x160;).Ĺ&#x2014; &#(!Ĺ&#x2014;-1(%3Ä&#x17D;Ĺ&#x2014;%Ĺ&#x2014;Ĺ&#x2014;*#(#Ĺ&#x2014;.)Ĺ&#x2014; Rittenhouse Square itself Ä&#x160;%Ĺ&#x2014;#(Ĺ&#x2014;Ĺ&#x2014; ,Ĺ&#x2014;&/(".#'Ĺ&#x2014;")#,Ĺ&#x2014;*, ),'(Ĺ&#x2014;.Ĺ&#x2014; the Church of the Holy Trinity Ä&#x160;.Ĺ&#x2014;/.Ĺ&#x2014;)(Ĺ&#x2014;,)1(Ĺ&#x2014;&#+/),-Ĺ&#x2014;1"#&Ĺ&#x2014;!..#(!Ĺ&#x2014; spirited at Village Whiskey Ä&#x160;&#0Ĺ&#x2014;3)/,Ĺ&#x2014;Ăł'#(!Ĺ&#x2014;3)/."Ĺ&#x2014;1#."Ĺ&#x2014;(Ĺ&#x2014;&&Ä&#x161;!-Ĺ&#x2014;#(#Ĺ&#x2014; concert at First Unitarian Church

224 S. 15th St., 215-985-9600, gooddogbar.com

EXPLORE â&#x20AC;Ś BARS + CLUBS Doobieâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s

2201 Lombard St., 215-546-0316

A cozy, cheap neighborhood tavern, Doobieâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s offers a late-night respite with dark wine-colored walls and a brightly lit bar. Good Dog

Some of the best bar food in town, and the beer ainâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t bad, either. Jollyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Restaurant & Rocking Dueling Piano Bar

1420 Locust St., 267-687-1161, jollyspianobar.com

Jollyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s recently relocated to the Academy House, where regular performers play all the classics. Ladder 15

1528 Sansom St., 215-964-9755, ladder15philly.com

Decked out in dark wood and industrial steel, Lad-

der 15â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s den-like space features a fireplace, cozy booths and a 30-seat bar. Locust Rendezvous Bar & Grill 1415 Locust St., 215-985-1163

The â&#x20AC;&#x2122;Vous serves breakfast all day on weekends and reasonable bar fare at night. Misconduct Tavern

1511 Locust St., 215-732-5797, misconduct-tavern.com

A solid craft beer selection and TVs galore characterize this maritime-themed bar, a slightly quieter respite from the packed pubs of Center City. Monkâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s CafĂŠ

264 S. 16th St., 215-545-7005, monkscafe.com

A dark, crowded Belgian joint that offers a staggering selection of international beers. Nodding Head

1516 Sansom St., 2nd Fl., 215-569-9525, noddinghead.com

A laid-back feel encourages the hordes to sidle up to the bar for a glass of house-brewed hooch. Stir

1705 Chancellor St., 215-732-2700, stirphilly.com

Stir is a sleek, multibar gay lounge hidden on Chancellor Street, accessible via two-second duck off Rittenhouse Square. RESTAURANTS + MARKETS 10 Arts The Ritz-Carlton, 10 S. Broad St., 215-523-8221, 10arts.com

Jennifer Carroll, a Philly native and former sous chef at Eric Ripertâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Le Bernardin, designed 10 Artsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; menus around goodies from local purveyors.

CITYPAPER.NET

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THE HOODS: RITTENHOUSE/CENTER CITY WEST Audrey Claire

Lacroix

â&#x20AC;&#x153;Freshâ&#x20AC;? is a key word here; the ingredients seem remarkably unpolluted and undiluted.

Fine dining with a view of Rittenhouse Square.

276 S. 20th St., 215-731-1222, audreyclaire.com

Butcher & Singer

Mama Palmaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s

A Mad Men aesthetic creates a toasty backdrop for this manly meat menu, centered around cuts like Delmonicos, dry-aged porterhouses, pork chops and more.

This corner sit-down might be the most aesthetically pleasing pizzeria in Center City; theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re all about wood-fired toasty tastes and gourmet ingredients.

CafĂŠ Lutecia

Melograno

A member of the Philadelphia culinary scene for more than 15 years, CafĂŠ LutĂŠcia serves up its own ,(Ĺ&#x2014; ) Ĺ&#x2014; &&#Ĺ&#x2014; **,#.#)(Ĺ&#x2014; Ä&#x153;Ĺ&#x2014; (Ĺ&#x2014; #.-Ĺ&#x2014; ,)1(#(!Ĺ&#x2014; glory just might be its glorious tomato bisque.

Melograno stands out among the crop of Phillyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Italian BYOs for its quality and consistency.

El Fuego

Chef/owner David Katzâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s cuisine is often char.,#4Ĺ&#x2014; -Ĺ&#x2014; Ä?,/-.#Ä&#x2026;Ä&#x2018;Ĺ&#x2014; '%#(!Ĺ&#x2014; &--#Ĺ&#x2014;Ăł0),-Ĺ&#x2014;.-.Ĺ&#x2014; even better than you remember.

1500 Walnut St., 215-732-4444, butcherandsinger.com

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2301 Lombard St., 215-790-9557

2104 Chestnut St., 215-751-1435, elfuegoburritos.com

In the second rendition of their assembly-line burrito palace, El Fuego has thrown caution to the wind and stocked the place with a full bar. Elixr Coffee

207 S. 15th St., 215-475-8221, elixrcoffee.com

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Bean fiend Evan Inatome offers some serious coffee along with Au Fournil pastries and Marathon ,#&&Ĺ&#x2014;-(1#"-Ä&#x201E; El Rey

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2013 Chestnut St., 215-563-3330, elreyrestaurant.com

The walls are filled with trippy Mexican prison art (Ĺ&#x2014;0,#)/-Ĺ&#x2014;%#.-"Ä&#x161;.-.#Ĺ&#x2014;ĂłÄ&#x161;',%.Ĺ&#x2014;Ă°(-Ä&#x2021;Ĺ&#x2014;#(Ĺ&#x2014;."Ĺ&#x2014; back of the restaurant sits the Ranstead Room, a covert cocktail bar that opens at 7 p.m. nightly. Erawan 123 S. 23rd St., 215-567-2542

What pushes this cuisine over the edge is the presence of crispy rice in entrĂŠes, which gives a texture that may send your mind away to the Laotian side of the Mekong River.

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Fish 1708 Lombard St., 215-545-9600, fishphilly.com

Chef Mike Stollenwerk has a talent for imbuing simpler preparations with enough complexity to engage your attention without fragmenting it. Good Karma Cafe

331 S. 22nd St., 215-546-1479, thegoodkarmacafe.com

All coffees and teas are fair-trade and organic; eats options include breakfast prerequisites like bagels and pastries as well as locally produced soups, salads and sandwiches. Jose Pistolaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s

263 S. 15th St., 215-545-4101, josepistolas.com

A burrito bar for the fancy-beer-swilling crowd â&#x20AC;&#x201D; or for anyone who wants to watch a game without being surrounded by hoarse-voiced Iggles fans.

3PRUCE3TREET 0HILADELPIHA 

  

210 West Rittenhouse Square, 215-790-2533, lacroixrestaurant.com

La Colombe

130 S. 19th St., 215-563-0860; 1414 South Penn Square, 215-977-7770 ; lacolombe.com

Euro-bohemia meets Rittenhouse chic for the richest java in town.

2229 Spruce St., 215-735-7357

2012 Sansom St., 215-875-8116

MĂŠmĂŠ

2201 Spruce St., 215-735-4900, memerestaurant.com

Oyster House

1516 Sansom St., 215-567-7683, oysterhousephilly.com

Our fair city went a while without a proper fish house. Enter third-generation restaurant man Sam Mink, whoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s revived the family business with a smart renovation and a strong kitchen. Parc

227 S. 18th St., 215-545-2262, parc-restaurant.com

Watching the sun strike the open windows of Stephen Starrâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Parc is one of those beyondelegant moments that make you glad you live in Philly. Philadelphia Chutney Co.

1628 Sansom St., 215-564-6446, philadelphiachutneyco.com

This quick-serve, all-vegetarian Indian/Pakistani spot serves up doasas, uttapas and samosas. Pub & Kitchen

1946 Lombard St., 215-545-0350, thepubandkitchen.com

As you might gather from the name, Pub & Kitchen has both a stellar booze selection (lots of craft beer) and polished U.K.-inspired fare (try the signature Churchill burger). Pure Fare

119 S. 21st St., 267-318-7441, purefare.com

Pure Fareâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s calorie-conscious menu items, most of which are sourced from local farmers/purveyors, were vetted by a professor of nutrition education. Rotisseur

100.5 S. 21st St., 215-496-9494, rotisseur.net

Cage-, hormone- and antibiotic-free rotisserie chicken paired with classic American favorites like mac â&#x20AC;&#x2122;nâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; cheese, potato salad and corn muffins. Tinto

114 S. 20th St., 215-665-9150, tintorestaurant.com

)-Ĺ&#x2014; ,-Ä&#x201C;Ĺ&#x2014; #(.)Ĺ&#x2014; )&&)1-Ĺ&#x2014; Ĺ&#x2014; /&#(,3Ĺ&#x2014; ')&Ĺ&#x2014; straight out of San Sebastian, and itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s as close to the real deal as this city will ever get.


Twenty Manning Grill

261 S. 20th St., 215-731-0900, twentymanning.com

Audrey Claire Taichmanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s bistro/lounge offers a casual American menu, fresh rotating â&#x20AC;&#x153;plates of the dayâ&#x20AC;? and some mean cocktails. Village Whiskey

118 S. 20th St., 215-665-1088, villagewhiskey.com

#."Ĺ&#x2014;#&&!Ĺ&#x2014;"#-%3Ä&#x2026;Ĺ&#x2014;,-Ĺ&#x2014;&0-Ĺ&#x2014;."Ĺ&#x2014;*(ish-speaking world behind for an amalgam of Swing Era ambience and Southern comfort food â&#x20AC;&#x201D; plus one of the best damn burgers in the city. MUSIC Chrisâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Jazz CafĂŠ

1421 Sansom St., 215-568-3131, chrisjazzcafe.com

Catch local and big-name acts almost every night of week at this venue and restaurant. First Unitarian Church

2125 Chestnut St., 866-468-7619, r5productions.com

Local DIY production team R5 transforms the churchâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s basement into a sweaty all-ages haven for indie acts. Upstairs Chapel concerts are more intimate. ARTS + CULTURE Academy of Music

1420 Locust St., 215-893-1935, academyofmusic.org

Hosts the Pennsylvania Ballet (paballet.org), the Opera Company of Philadelphia and the Kimmel Centerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Broadway series. The Adrienne Theatre

2030 Sansom St., 215-923-2766

The 103-seat main stage houses InterAct Theatre Co., ComedySportz, Susan Hess Modern Dance and many more. Chamber Orchestra of Philadelphia 1520 Locust St., No. 500, 215-545-5451, chamberorchestra.org

Bringing intimate, world-class performance to Philadelphia, the Chamber Orchestraâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s been making beautiful music since 1964. Fleisher-Ollman Gallery

1616 Walnut St., Suite 100, 215-545-7562, fleisher-ollmangallery.com

Greater Philadelphia Cultural Alliance 1616 Walnut Street, Suite 600, 215-557-7811, philaculture.org

Helium Comedy Club

2031 Sansom St., 215-496-9001, heliumcomedy.com

Standup from well-known funny people, like Mark Curry (Hanginâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; with Mr. Cooper) and Brian Posehn (The Sarah Silverman Program). Kimmel Center for the Performing Arts 300 S. Broad St., 215-893-1999, kimmelcenter.org

The 2,500-seat theater is the queen bee on Broad Street and hosts shows from Philadanco, the Philadelphia Orchestra and many more, plus national and international headliners.


THE HOODS: RITTENHOUSE/CENTER CITY WEST

The Merriam

250 S. Broad St., 215-732-5446, merriam-theater.org

The Merriam is the place to go for Broadway Roadhouse and the Pennsylvania Ballet. Mütter Museum of the College of Physicians 19 S. 22nd St., 215-563-3737, collphyphil.org

Medical anomalies abound, from old-school surgical instruments to a 3-D chart of eye diseases.

SHOPPING Buffalo Exchange

1713 Chestnut St., 215-557-9850, buffaloexchange.com

Bring your gently used duds in for cash, or buy someone else’s on the cheap. Joan Shepp

UBIQ

1509 Walnut St., ubiqlife.com

Sneaks are the thing at this hip Walnut Street footwear mecca. PARKS + REC 23rd Street Armory

1616 Walnut St., 215-735-2666, joanshepp.com

22 S. 23rd St., 215-564-1488, firsttroop.com

Philadelphia Art Alliance

Bicycle Coalition of Greater Philadelphia

251 S. 18th St., 215-545-4302, philartalliance.org

This out-of-control-delicious Center City boutique houses the newest looks from Opening Ceremony, Sigerson Morrison and many more.

Plays & Players Theater

Long in the Tooth

Breakaway Bikes

2027 Sansom St., 215-569-1994

1923 Chestnut St., 215-568-6002, breakawaybikes.com

Built in 1912, this is one of the oldest non-professional theaters still in use in the U.S.

Catering to hipsters and old-heads alike, Long in the Tooth sells new and used vinyl records, CDs and tapes with an emphasis on hardcore, punk, indie rock and jazz.

Frankinstien Bikeworx

1714 Delancey Place, 215-735-0630, playsandplayers.org

The Print Center

1614 Latimer St., 215-735-6090, printcenter.org

Rosenbach Museum & Library

2008 Delancey Place, 215-732-1600, rosenbach.org

Houses rare books and manuscripts, plus an extensive Maurice Sendak collection. Roxy Theatre

2023 Sansom St., 215-923-6699

An old-timey movie theater in the heart of Center City. Suzanne Roberts Theatre

480 S. Broad St., 215-985-0420, philadephiatheatrecompany.org

Home of the Philadelphia Theatre Co., this 365seat proscenium theater opened in 2007.

46

CITY GUIDE 2011 - 2012

Omoi

1608 Pine St., 215-545-0963, omoionline.com

Off the beaten shopping path, Omoi specializes in Japanese pop culture. SA VA

1700 Sansom St., 215-587-0004, savafashion.com

Focusing on sustainable “ethiquette,” Sarah Van Aken’s shop won Philadelphia magazine’s “Best New Boutique” award in 2010. Square Peg Artery

108 S. 20th St., 215-360-5548, squarepegartery.com

Consignment shop filled with hidden treasures, from reclaimed art to quirky accessories.

1500 Walnut St., Suite 1107, 215-242-9253, bicyclecoalition.org

1529 Spruce St., 215-893-0415, frankinstienbikeworx.com

Schuylkill Banks

25th and Locust streets, 215-222-6030, schuylkillbanks.org

Rittenhouse Square Fitness Club

2002 Rittenhouse Square, 215-985-4095, ritfit.com


THE HOODS

photo by Neal Santos

Oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Neals

611 S. Third St., 215-574-9495, onealspub.com

SOCIETY HILL/SOUTH STREET EAST AT THE INTERSECTION OF YOUNG BLOOD AND OLD MONEY. South Street from Front to Broad still attracts the young and restless to its gum-tree corners, shows at the TLA and late-night pizza at Lorenzoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s. Because itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s always a buzzing hive of activity, police presence is more pronounced on South than perhaps any other street in the city. A smattering of classier joints and local institutions live on the eastern edge of the â&#x20AC;&#x2122;hood and through quietly ritzy Society Hill, a dense residential zone of neatly appointed trinity rowhomes.

is the City Councilman repping the First District (215-686-3458).

WHILE YOUâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;RE HERE â&#x20AC;Ś Ä&#x160;")*Ĺ&#x2014;."Ĺ&#x2014;,!#)(Ä&#x201C;-Ĺ&#x2014;Ă°(-.Ĺ&#x2014;*,)/Ĺ&#x2014;.Ĺ&#x2014;/(3Ä&#x201C;Headhouse Farmers Market Ä&#x160;-.Ĺ&#x2014;Xochitlâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s entire menu for half-price every Thursday after 10 p.m. Ä&#x160;!&Ĺ&#x2014;."Ĺ&#x2014;.,-"Ä&#x161;.)Ä&#x161;.,-/,Ĺ&#x2014;-.".#Ĺ&#x2014;) Ĺ&#x2014; -#"Ĺ&#x2014; Zagarâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Magic Gardens Ä&#x160;/(Ĺ&#x2014;3)/,Ĺ&#x2014;1"&-Ĺ&#x2014;.Ĺ&#x2014;Via Bicycle Ä&#x160;"*Ĺ&#x2014;,Ä&#x2026;Ĺ&#x2014;#()),Ĺ&#x2014;!,Ăś.#Ĺ&#x2014;(Ĺ&#x2014;)Ĺ&#x2014;/-3Ä&#x2020;Ĺ&#x2014; Tattooed Momâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s never changes

344 South St., 215-923-6180, copabanana.com

YOU SHOULD KNOW â&#x20AC;Ś The South Street Headhouse District (southstreet.com) provides a comprehensive business directory; through 2011, Frank DiCicco

EXPLORE â&#x20AC;Ś BARS + CLUBS The Artful Dodger

400 S. Second St., 215-922-1790

This small, friendly Headhouse Square bar specializes in consistent, affordable English pub fare and brown liquors. Copabanana

The original Copabanana is a South Street staple for its everlasting Mardi Gras atmosphere. Dark Horse Pub 421 S. Second St., 215-928-9307, darkhorsepub.com

Celebrating England and Ireland via heavy stouts, shepherdâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s pie and footy on the telly. Fluid

221 South St., 215-440-4242, fluidnightclub.com

Hip-hop, new wave, reggae, punk rock, soul â&#x20AC;&#x201D; you name it, this night clubâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s spinning it. Laff House

611 S. Third St., 215-574-9495, laffhouse.com

A comedy club featuring standup nearly every Friday and Saturday.

Make your way to a patio table in Oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Nealsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; quaint backyard. The pub also offers free WiFi access for fantasy football fans who like drinking and drafting. Tattooed Momâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s

530 South St., 215-238-9880

This classic South Street dive, a destination for TLA pregamers, augments its weird-grandmaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;sparlor dĂŠcor with a friendly staff, insanely cheap drink deals and weekly theme nights (Taco Tuesday!). RESTAURANTS + MARKETS Alyanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s 603 S. Fourth St., 215-922-3553

Kibbeh, baba ganoush and hummus deck the house pita sandwiches, large enough to justify eating under the back roomâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s skylight. Blackbird

507 S. Sixth St., 215-625-6660, blackbirdpizzeria.com

This hopping pizzeria dishes out a Philly-inspired menu of pizzas and sandwiches that are 100 percent vegan and kosher. Bodhi

410 S. Second St., 215-239-2928, bodhiphiladelphia.com

This artsy cafĂŠ brews Stumptown coffee along with a light menu of organic, local fare. Brauhaus Schmitz

718 South St., 267-909-8814, brauhausschmitz.com

This 20-tap Teutonic drinkerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s haven is heavy on German (Jever, Reissdorf, Spaten, Paulaner, etc.) as well as the Hausbrau, a crisp lager brewed for the bar by Stoudtâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s. CITYPAPER.NET

47


THE HOODS: SOCIETY HILL/SOUTH STREET EAST Bridget Foyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s

200 South St., 215-922-1813, bridgetfoys.com

Eat outdoors at Bridget Foyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s to get your South Street pedestrian ambience undiluted. Burger.Org

326 South St., 267-639-3425 Entertaining Philadelphia for 25 years. And counting.

FALL SPLENDOR FROM THE WATER. Celebrate the change of seasons aboard the renovated Spirit of Philadelphia. Indulge in endless buffets, magnificent views, lively entertainment and dancing aboard our comfortable climate-controlled decks. Our vibrant vessel is perfect for any occasion. Offering festive Brunch, Lunch & Dinner Cruises year-round.

Make an unforgettable fall memory.

866.211.3808 SpiritOfPhiladelphia.com Cruising year-round from Pennâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s landing.

An Entertainment Cruises Company.

This all-organic burger joint looks to satisfy more than just the beef eaters â&#x20AC;&#x201D; the menu, which tops out at $9.99, offers free-range turkey, free-range "#%(Ä&#x2026;Ĺ&#x2014;Ă°-"Ĺ&#x2014;(Ĺ&#x2014; /&&3Ĺ&#x2014;0!!#Ĺ&#x2014;)*.#)(-Ä&#x201E; Fez Moroccan Cuisine

620 S. Second St., 215-925-5367, fezrestaurant.com

Servers explain each course (eight in all), as well as the traditions, like pre- and post-meal hand washing. Gnocchi

613 E. Passyunk Ave., 215-592-8300

This quaint BYOB features house-made pasta served with simple, fresh ingredients. Headhouse Farmers Market

Second and Lombard streets, thefoodtrust.org

Local food purveyors at this weekend summer market include A.T. Buzby produce, John & Kiraâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s chocolate, Patches of Star cheese and many more. Hot Diggity

630 South St., 267-886-9253 thehotdiggity.com

With a creative menu that runs the gamut from traditional to kooky, the folks at this hot dog joint remind us that wieners can be fun and delicious. Ishkabibbles Eatery

337 South St., 215-923-4337

Spanish fries or cheese fries? Many patrons of this decades-old cheesesteak institution have trouble deciding between the two. Jimâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Steaks

400 South St., 215-928-1911, jimssteaks.com

Tourists have waited in obscenely long lines for these steaks since 1939, and for good reason. Las Bugambilias

148 South St., 215-922-3190, lasbugambiliasphilly.com

Rather than focus exclusively on one region, the cooking at Las Bugambilias crisscrosses through Veracruz, Oaxacan and Yucatan cuisines. The Latest Dish

613 S. Fourth St., 215-629-0565, latestdish.com

A cozy off-South Street option serving fancierthan-average diner fare and a beer list thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll rival any of the surrounding pubs. Lorenzo & Son Pizza

305 South St., 215-627-4110

Stop by for a ubiquitous South Street slice â&#x20AC;&#x201D; just donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t try to order pepperoni. Lovash

236-238 South St., 215-925-3881, lovashrestaurant.com

Craving authentic Indian cuisine but donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t have the time for a sit-down meal? Try out their online delivery service.

Marrakesh

517 S. Leithgow St., 215-925-5929, marrakesheastcoast.com

),Ĺ&#x2014; ."Ĺ&#x2014; &)0Ĺ&#x2014; ) Ĺ&#x2014; )Ä&#x2026;Ĺ&#x2014; )(Ä&#x201C;.Ĺ&#x2014; .Ĺ&#x2014; ),Ĺ&#x2014; .Ĺ&#x2014; &-.Ĺ&#x2014; Ă°0Ĺ&#x2014; hours before dining at this multi-course Moroccan mainstay. Percy Street Barbecue 900 South St., 215-625-8510, percystreet.com

Aside from brisket, the star of Texas barbecue, Percyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s doing pork spare ribs and pork belly, chicken and a killer sausage. Pizzeria Stella

215 Lombard St., 215-320-8000, pizzeriastella.net

.&&Ĺ&#x2014;#-Ĺ&#x2014;.*"(Ĺ&#x2014;.,,Ä&#x201C;-Ĺ&#x2014;Ă°,-.Ĺ&#x2014; ),3Ĺ&#x2014;#(.)Ĺ&#x2014;*#44Ä&#x2026;Ĺ&#x2014;(Ĺ&#x2014; thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a not lot of flash here â&#x20AC;&#x201D; the focus is on the food. S&H Kebab House

611 E. Passyunk Ave., 267-639-3214, kebabhouseonline.com

When not expanding their empire, the Ottomans clearly spent time perfecting their cooking. Grab authentic Turkish, Middle Eastern and Mediterranean cuisine here. South Street Souvlaki

509 South St., 215-925-3026

Philadelphiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s oldest Greek establishment features award-winning gyros served alongside a tasty melange of veggies with yogurt sauce. Supper

926 South St., 215-592-8180, supperphilly.com

This modern American cuisine is more lavish than a typical dinner with the fam, but the urban farmhouse setting makes you feel right at home. Xochitl

408 S. Second St., 215-238-7280, xochitlphilly.com

Bartenders whip up inspired cocktails, guacamoleâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s made table-side and tequilas are available in tasting flights. MUSIC The Legendary Dobbs

304 South St., 215-501-7288, dobbsphilly.com

Home to live performances since 1974, Dobbs also features aptly named entrees such as the â&#x20AC;&#x153;shred zeppelin.â&#x20AC;? The TLA

334 South St., 215-922-1011, livenation.com

Audiences cram into this South Street mainstay for close encounters with national and underground acts. ARTS + CULTURE Eyes Gallery

402 South St., 215-925-0193, eyesgallery.com

Get lost inside this South Street quirkerie, selling everything from masks and ceramics to textiles and furniture. Infinite Body Piercing

626 S. Fourth St., 215-923-7335, infinitebody.com

If youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve got it, this long-running body-mod shop will put a ring, or a stud, or a barbell in it.


No Ka Oi Tiki Tattoo

610 S. Fourth St., 215-925-1766, nokaoitikitattoo.com

Get inked or pierced at this Hawaiian-themed tattoo parlor. Philadelphia Eddieâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Tattoo 607 S. Fourth St., 215-829-9833, philadelphiaeddiestattoo.com

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One of the most trusted names in Philly tattoos. Philadelphiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Magic Gardens 1020 South St., 215-733-0390, phillymagicgardens.org

Isaiah Zagarâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s ever-growing masterpiece is a wonderland of broken glass. Shubin Theatre

407 Bainbridge St., 215-592-0119, phillyimprovtheater.com

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A wide variety of shows are performed for an intimate, 43-seat audience. Society Hill Dance Academy

409 S. Second St., 215-574-3574, societyhilldance.com

Learn the fox trot or rent out the space for a private party. Society Hill Playhouse

507 S. Eighth St., 215-923-0210, societyhillplayhouse.org

Enjoy new comedies and old favorites in a theater with a century of history.

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SHOPPING Crash Bang Boom

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528 S. Fourth St., 215-928-1123, crashbangboomonline.com

From chokers to leather jackets to studs, theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve got every punk rocker covered. Repo Records

538 South St., 215-627-3775, reporecords.com

Open in this location since 1998, this shop specializes in new and used CDs and vinyl.

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Retrospect 508 South St., 267-671-0116, retrospectvintage.com

Carefully selected vintage clothing accessories for men and women.

and

0 COME ENJOY HEALTHY MEDITERRANEAN CUISINE FRESH, AUTHENTIC, MOUTHWATERING MEDITERRANEAN CUISINE WILL HAVE YOUR PALATE DANCING! GREEK SHRIMP TO MUSSELS LAMB CHOPS TO KABOBS MOUSAKA TO SPANAKOPITA HUMMUS TO STUFFED PEPPERS

Wooden Shoe Books 704 South St., 215-413-0999, woodenshoebooks.com

An â&#x20AC;&#x153;all-volunteer anarchist collectiveâ&#x20AC;? that sells books and records and hosts regular readings and author events. PARKS + REC Old Pine Community Center 401 Lombard St., 215-627-2493, oldpinecommunitycenter.org

Starr Garden Rec Center

Sixth and Lombard streets, 215-686-1782

Via Bicycle

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606 S. Ninth St., 215-627-3370, bikeville.com

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0

VEGETARIAN AND VEGAN ENTREES OPEN FOR LUNCH & DINNER TUESDAY-SUNDAY

SOUTH STREET SOUVLAKI 509 SOUTH STREET PHILADELPHIA 215.925.3026


THE HOODS

photos by Neal Santos

Uncles

1220 Locust St., 215-546-6660, unclesupstairsinn.com

THE GAYBORHOOD/MIDTOWN VILLAGE SOMEWHERE UNDER THE RAINBOW. Bordered by Washington Square and the Avenue of the Arts, 13th Street serves as the beating rainbow heart of this up-and-coming â&#x20AC;&#x2122;hood. Also known as Midtown Village, the Gayborhood has undergone a recent revival, in part thanks to power couple Marcie Turney and Valerie Safran and their spate of fun restaurants and shops. WHILE YOUâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;RE HERE â&#x20AC;Ś Ä&#x160;Ĺ&#x2014;#.Ĺ&#x2014;/*Ĺ&#x2014;El Vez for the blood-orange margaritas and a trip to the black-and-white film photobooth Ä&#x160;Ĺ&#x2014;'*&Ĺ&#x2014;--)(&Ĺ&#x2014;Ăł0),-Ĺ&#x2014;.Ĺ&#x2014;Capogiro Gelato Artisans; try the divine cioccolato scuro Ä&#x160;Ĺ&#x2014;)'*,Ĺ&#x2014;*#-Ĺ&#x2014; ,)'Ĺ&#x2014;(#!"),-Ĺ&#x2014;Zavino and Barbuzzo in a new-wave pizza face-off Ä&#x160;Ĺ&#x2014;/,(Ĺ&#x2014;/*Ĺ&#x2014;."Ĺ&#x2014;(Ăł)),Ĺ&#x2014;.Ĺ&#x2014;Woodyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s or Sisters YOU SHOULD KNOW â&#x20AC;Ś To find out more about whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s happening in the Gayborhood, check out the Midtown Village Association (midtownvillage.org); for political concerns, contact First District City Councilman Frank DiCicco (215-686-3458) through 2011.

50

CITY GUIDE 2011 - 2012

Uncles sort of looks like the gayest Jimmy Buffett party ever, with decorative palm trees, a rainbow flag draped across the entrance and large opened windows for a nice breeze. Voyeur Nightclub

1221 St James St., 215-735-5772, voyeurnightclub.com

EXPLORE â&#x20AC;Ś BARS + CLUBS Dirty Frankâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s

347 S. 13th St., 215-732-5010

The bartenders always know your name â&#x20AC;&#x201D; and your drink â&#x20AC;&#x201D; at this quintessential dive bar. ICandy

254 S. 12th St., 267-324-3500, clubicandy.com

One of the newest gay nightclubs in Philadelphia, ICandy is a multi-level experience complete with extensive bar, dancefloor and roof deck. Sisters

1320 Chancellor St., 215-735-0735, sistersnightclub.com

Karaoke, live music, theme parties and movie screenings keep this bar busy seven days a week.

This LGBTQ-friendly club hosts weekly events, drink specials and private parties. Woodyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Bar

202 S. 13th St., 215-545-1893, woodysbar.com

One of the most popular gay clubs in Philly, but the name is recognizable to those of any sexual orientation. RESTAURANTS + MARKETS AmĂ­s

412 S. 13th St., 215-732-AMIS, amisphilly.com

Marc Vetriâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s third Philly restaurant is a casual paean to the neighborhood trattoria of Rome. Barbuzzo

110 S. 13th St., 215-546-9300, barbuzzo.com

Tabuâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s commitment to â&#x20AC;&#x153;happy beyond happy hourâ&#x20AC;? ensures good times for all patrons.

Culling influences from throughout the Mediterranean, the menu touches on seafood (grilled octopus with piri piri oil; wood-roasted Portuguese sardines) plus housemade pastas, pizza and charcuterie.

Tria

Capogiro

Tria is a fermentables-focused bar specializing in thoughtful wine, beer and cheese selections.

More than 240 different flavors of frozen treats made with organic fruit, nuts and herbs.

Tabu

200 S. 12th St., 215-964-9675, tabuphilly.com

1137 Spruce St., 215-629-9200, triacafe.com

119 South 13th St., 215-351-0900, capogirogelato.com


The Corner

102 S. 13th St., 215-735-7500, thephillycorner.com

The Corner boasts thoughtful bespoke cocktails and high-end comfort food. El Vez

121 S. 13th St., 215-928-9800, elvezrestaurant.com

Queso fundido is a guilty pleasure designed to be mopped up with fluffy, light tortillas. The Farm and Fisherman

1120 Pine St., 267-687-1555, thefarmandfisherman.com

A true farm-to-table that sources ever-changing, always-seasonal ingredients from local growers. Garces Trading Co.

1111 Locust St., 215-574-1099, garcestradingcompany.com

The Iron Chefâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s foray into the gourmet market game. Last Drop

1300 Pine St., 215-893-9262,

One of the first coffeehouses to get Philly on the coffee kick, Last Drop is the quintessential slacker hangout. Marabella Meatball Co.

1211 Walnut St., 215-238-1833, marabellameatballco.com

spot draws Philly faithful from all over the city for its affordable Indian cuisine.

programming and even the occasional basementswimming-pool dance performance.

Opa

Giovanniâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Room

Modern Greek cuisine includes dishes like braised rabbit, souvlakia and funky-fresh kokoretsi.

An LGBTQ bookstore with regular author talks and other events.

Sampan

SHOPPING Matthew Izzo

1311 Sansom St., 215-545-0170, opaphiladelphia.com

124 S. 13th St., 215-732-3501, sampanphilly.com

This Gayborhood mecca for contemporary Asian fare just launched a dim sum brunch made up of sought-after small plates. Spruce Street Espresso

1101 Spruce St., 215-609-4469, sprucestreetespresso. wordpress.com

Dispensing Counter Culture java in the heart of the Gayborhood. Valanni

1229 Spruce St., 215-790-9494, valanni.com

Valanni features refined Medi-Latin cuisine; half of the restaurant now bills itself as a â&#x20AC;&#x153;social night spot,â&#x20AC;? hosting happy hours and special events. Vetri

1312 Spruce St., 215-732-3478, vetriristorante.com

A marinara-red charmer with seating for 30 and enough meatballs to feed the Roman army.

Marc Vetriâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s eponymous restaurant is still one of the hottest tickets in town; people call ahead of time to taste his calamari torta.

Mercato

Zavino

1216 Spruce St., 215-985-2962, mercatobyob.com

Few places capture the essence of Phillyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s BYOB culture quite like Mercato, with its cozy atmosphere, casual vibe and open kitchen. Minar Palace

1304 Walnut St., 215-546-9443, minarphilly.com

This wildly popular Indian restaurant/takeout

112 S. 13th St., 215-732-2400, zavino.com

At Zavinoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s polished, narrow space, check out pies like the polpettini or the fratello.

345 South 12th St., 215-923-2960, giovannisroom.com

111 S. 12th St., 215-829-0606, matthewizzo.com

Chic threads and sexy minimalist furniture by the Philly art institution. Open House

107 S. 13th St., 215-922-1415, openhouseliving.com

Modern urban designs in furniture and ephemera for kitchen, bath, baby and more. TrickGo

1135 Pine St., 215-238-1207, trickgo.com

College students run this unconventional boutique/gallery space where everything from T-shirts to art prints is for sale. Verde

108 S. 13th St., 215-546-8700, verdephiladelphia.com

Dealing exclusively in flowers, gifts and artisan chocolate. PARKS + REC 12th Street Gym

204 S. 12th St., 215-735-8786, 12streetgym.com

Louis I. Kahn Memorial Park 1119 Pine St., kahnpark.tripod.com

ARTS + CULTURE Gershman Y

401 S. Broad St., 215-545-4400, gershmany.org

"#-Ĺ&#x2014; ),',Ĺ&#x2014; Ĺ&#x2014;")-.-Ĺ&#x2014;!&&,3Ĺ&#x2014;2"##.-Ä&#x2026;Ĺ&#x2014; '#&3Ĺ&#x2014; CITYPAPER.NET

51


THE HOODS

photos by Neal Santos

CHINATOWN/LOFT DISTRICT AT THE CENTER OF CONVENTION CENTEROPOLIS. Just blocks from City Hall, goggling tourists, branded conventioneers, suicide taxis and fuming delivery trucks all swim upstream into the vortex of 11th and Arch streets, where the Reading Terminal Market meets Chinatown. Bound tightly by Eighth and 12th streets from Arch to Vine, the â&#x20AC;&#x2122;hood is a spicy blend of cheap and delicious restaurants, entertainment (shows at the Troc!) and culture shock. Suck up noodles at Pho 75 or try the thousand-layer bread at Rangoon, but donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t miss a photo op with the Friendship Arch or the Chinese New Year parade every spring. WHILE YOUâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;RE HERE â&#x20AC;Ś Ä&#x160;Ĺ&#x2014;) .(Ĺ&#x2014;.)'),,)1Ä&#x201C;-Ĺ&#x2014;"(!)0,Ĺ&#x2014;1#."Ĺ&#x2014;Ĺ&#x2014;Ă˝Ĺ&#x2014;Ä&#x201E;'Ä&#x201E;Ĺ&#x2014; -.Ĺ&#x2014; at Tai Lake (the seafood rolls are swimming when you arrive) Ä&#x160;Ĺ&#x2014;Reading Terminal Market deals in fast lunches and diverse groceries, plus killer peoplewatching Ä&#x160;Ĺ&#x2014;Space 1026 houses artistsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; studios and is always good for a gallery show Ä&#x160;#%Ĺ&#x2014;/*Ĺ&#x2014;Ĺ&#x2014;/(#+/Ĺ&#x2014;!# .Ĺ&#x2014; ),Ĺ&#x2014;-)')(Ĺ&#x2014;3)/Ĺ&#x2014;&#%Ĺ&#x2014;. Fabric Workshop Ä&#x160;Ĺ&#x2014;)Ĺ&#x2014; ),Ĺ&#x2014;."Ĺ&#x2014;%(# Ä&#x161;-"0Ĺ&#x2014;())&-Ĺ&#x2014;.Ĺ&#x2014;Nan Zhou Hand Drawn Noodle House 52

CITY GUIDE 2011 - 2012

YOU SHOULD KNOW â&#x20AC;Ś The Philadelphia Chinatown Development Corp. (chinatown-pcdc.org) provides resources on community programs; through 2011, Chinatown is represented in the First District by Frank DiCicco (215-686-3458). EXPLORE â&#x20AC;Ś BARS + CLUBS The Institute Bar

549 N. 12th St., 267-318-7772, institutebar.com

A comfortably sized bilevel bar serving up local and international brews. Prohibition Taproom

501 N. 13th St., 215-238-1818, theprohibitiontaproom.com

Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s said that this bar was run as an illegal speakeasy back in the day. Now itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a friendly gastropub with tasty, reliable food and drink. Yakitori Boy

211 N. 11th St., 215-923-8088, yakitoriboy-japas.com

Yakitori Boy considers itself a â&#x20AC;&#x153;Japasâ&#x20AC;? â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Japanese tapas â&#x20AC;&#x201D; restaurant. The downstairs space features a full sushi bar, drinkinâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; bar and yakitori bar; upstairs is the karaoke bar, with a huge booze list to fuel your inner rock star.

RESTAURANTS + MARKETS Banana Leaf 1009 Arch St., 215-592-8288

The huge dining room can service tons of people, and fast, with sweet and savory dishes emerging from the steam and clatter of the open stainless steel kitchen. The Roti Canai appetizer is not to be ignored. CafĂŠ Lift

428 N. 13th St., 215-922-3031, cafelift.com

This Loft District hideaway is worth the trek for a triple threat of tasty food, friendly service and unique atmosphere. Delilahâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Southern Cuisine

Reading Terminal Market, 12th and Arch streets, 215-574-0929, readingterminalmarket.org

Delilah Winderâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s mac â&#x20AC;&#x2122;nâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; cheese, made from scratch with Gruyere and asiago, was voted best in the country by Oprah Winfrey in 2003 and was featured in an episode of the Food Networkâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Throwdown with Bobby Flay. Nan Zhou Hand Drawn Noodle House 927 Race St., 215-923-1550

Weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d pay the $5.25 just to watch the guy in the back window whip and wrangle a fresh batch of this placeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s namesake soup component. New Harmony Vegetarian Restaurant 135 N. Ninth St., 215-627-4520, myspace.com/newharmony

New Harmony is a meat avoiderâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s wonderland, where inspired mock dishes intermingle with more traditionally veggie-riffic options.


Ocean City

234 N. Ninth St., 215-829-0688, oceancityrestaurant.com

Elegant but lively, this Hong Kong-style dim sum hall has vaulted ceilings, a giant flat-screen TV and a bustling crowd. Penang

117 N. 10th St., 215-414-2531, penangusa.com

This eatery boasts a menu full of surprises, with a number of dishes so meta-scary, the menu requests that you ask your server for advice before ordering. We suggest you heed this advice. Pho Cali

1000 Arch St., 215-629-1888

This  Vietnamese eatery in Chinatown shows a total dedication to pho in action, although that’s not to say pho is the only thing worth ordering here.

briny deep. Recommended for those not too skittish to pick out their own frog from the vivarium in the entranceway. Vietnam Restaurant

221 N. 11th St., 215-592-1163, eatatvietnam.com

Completely renovated into a tasteful evocation of old Saigon, Vietnam now has the proper background for its light, delicious cuisine. MUSIC Starlight Ballroom

Fabric Workshop & Museum

1214 Arch St., 215-561-8888, fabricworkshop.org

Marginal Utility

319 N. 11th St., 917-355-4487, marginalutility.org

Pennsylvania Convention Center

1101 Arch St., 215-418-4700, paconvention.com

Hosts the annual Philadelphia International Flower Show, whose theme for 2012 is “Islands of Aloha.” Space 1026

460 N. Ninth St., 866-468-7619, r5productions.com

1026 Arch St., 215-574-7630, space1026.com

Catch up-and-coming acts booked by R5 Productions, Punk Rock Flea Markets and more at this converted roller-skating rink.

Tiger Strikes Asteroid

The Trocadero

319 N. 11th St., 3rd Floor, 215-238-1236, voxpopuligallery.org

1003 Arch St., 215-922-LIVE, thetroc.com

319A N.11th St., 4th Floor, Suite 2H

Vox Populi

Rangoon

112 N. Ninth St., 215-829-8939, rangoonrestaurant.com

Local and national bands from all over come to this former burlesque house to show Philly what they’ve got.

SHOPPING Abakus Takeout

Rangoon offers traditional Burmese dishes like chili shrimp, thousand-layer bread with potato curry dip, vegetarian keema and spinach salad.

ARTS + CULTURE The African American Museum in Philadelphia

Don’t let the playful exterior fool you — this Chinatown streetwear boutique serves up limited-edition sneaks and designer denim, not Chinese food.

12th and Arch streets, 215-922-2317, readingterminalmarket.org

Art Underground at the Wolf Building

AIA Bookstore & Design Center

Featuring more than 80 stalls and shops, the Reading Terminal Market dates back to 1892 when the Reading Railroad commissioned a food bazaar. A century later, the market continues to exhibit old and new culinary delights.

This huge converted warehouse hosts performing arts events throughout the year.

Reading Terminal Market

Tai Lake Seafood Restaurant

134 N. 10th St., 215-922-0698, tailakeseafoodrest.com

Tai Lake specializes in foods derived from the

701 Arch St., 215-574-0380

340 N. 12th St., 215-407-0556, gasandelectricarts.org

Asian Arts Initiative

1219 Vine St., 215-557-0455, asianartsinitiative.org

227 N. 10th St., 215-351-7978, abakustakeout.com

1218 Arch St., 215-569-3188, aiabookstore.com

Run by the Philly chapter of the American Institute of Architects, this shop carries books, gifts and toys for the design-minded Philadelphian.

Copy Gallery

319 N. 11th St. 3rd Floor, copygallery.org

CITYPAPER.NET

53


THE HOODS

photo by Neal Santos

BELLA VISTA/QUEEN VILLAGE YOUR SOUTH PHILLY STARTER KIT. Taking up the space south of South and north of Washington, Queen Village (from Front to Sixth) and Bella Vista (from Sixth to 10th) have evolved from old-school Italian neighborhoods into some of the most desirable real estate in the city. From the yoga moms pushing strollers down the streets of pretty rowhouses to the endless quest for free street parking, this zone is Phillyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Park Slope.

South Philly Democrat Frank CiCicco (215-6863458) has been repping the First District in City Council since 1996; heâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll retire at the end of 2011.

WHILE YOUâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;RE HERE â&#x20AC;Ś Ä&#x160;.Ĺ&#x2014;./,3Ĺ&#x2014;-.,.Ĺ&#x2014;,#!".Ĺ&#x2014;1#."Ĺ&#x2014; !-Ĺ&#x2014;Ä&#x201C;(Ä&#x201C;Ĺ&#x2014;!!-Ĺ&#x2014;.Ĺ&#x2014; Catahoula: $9 wins an entrĂŠe, side and draft beer Ä&#x160;#-#.Ĺ&#x2014;Kennett, a new contender in the gastropub game Ä&#x160;"Ĺ&#x2014;!,#&&Ĺ&#x2014;).)*/-Ĺ&#x2014;(Ĺ&#x2014;"0(&3Ĺ&#x2014;Ĺ&#x2014;!()/$Ĺ&#x2014; never get old at Dmitriâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Ä&#x160;,Ĺ&#x2014;Ĺ&#x2014;)!Ĺ&#x2014;(Ĺ&#x2014;,/(Ĺ&#x2014;&)(!Ĺ&#x2014;Front Street, replete with river and I-95 views Ä&#x160;.)%Ĺ&#x2014;/*Ĺ&#x2014;)(Ĺ&#x2014;1")&Ĺ&#x2014; ))-Ĺ&#x2014;.Ĺ&#x2014;)&Ä&#x161;-"))&Ĺ&#x2014;(./,&Ĺ&#x2014; grocer Essene

Chickâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s CafĂŠ & Wine Bar

YOU SHOULD KNOW â&#x20AC;Ś The Bella Vista United Civic Association (bvuca.org) and Queen Village Neighbors Association (qvna.org) are good places to start if youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re seeking community involvement. Lifelong 54

CITY GUIDE 2011 - 2012

EXPLORE â&#x20AC;Ś BARS + CLUBS 12 Steps Down

831 Christian St., 215-627-9013, 12stepsdown.com

The beerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s cheap and the shots are generous. 614 S. Seventh St., 215- 625-3700, chickscafe.com

The new Chickâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s retains the charm of its original cherry bar, with a menu to match. The Dive

947 E. Passyunk Ave., 215-465-5505

The type of neighborhood bar you wished you had just around the corner from your place. Lâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Etage

New Wave CafĂŠ

784 S. Third St., 215-922-8484, newwavecafe.com

A friendly, low-key bar with a mild sports theme and a happily retro-new-wave jukebox. Royal Tavern

937 E. Passyunk Ave., 215-389-6694, royaltavern.com

Within an area known for its faux fleur-de-lisness, the Royalâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s spare nature is welcome. Wishing Well Public House 767 S. Ninth St., 215-238-6555, wishingwellphilly.com

Featuring 12 taps and plenty of high-top seating; donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t miss the scrapple-topped SHAME Burger. RESTAURANTS + MARKETS Adsum

700 S. Fifth St., 267-888-7002, adsumrestaurant.com

The dĂŠcorâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s vintage university chic; the cocktails are bespoke; and the menuâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s teeming with clever comfort-foodie combinations. Bella Vista Beer Distributors 755 S. 11th St., 215-627-6465

The bar upstairs from Beau Monde contains this neighborhoodâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s best crammed, sweaty dancefloor.

The 38,000-square-foot space carries around 1,100 beers â&#x20AC;&#x201D; if itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s available in the state, they have it. Pick up a keg, a case or a sixer of high-end soda.

Little Bar

Bibou

Taking over the old Vesuvio, Little Bar hosts live jazz in a cozy neighborhood atmosphere.

Neighborhood sweetheart Bibou is the best French bistro is a city teeming with them.

624 S. Sixth St., 215-592-0656, creperie-beaumonde.com

738 S. Eighth St., littlebarphilly.com

1009 S. Eighth St., 215-965-8290, biboubyob.com


Bistrot La Minette

Paloma

Sweet Tooth Candy Shop

Bistrot La Minette is a warm, intimate Francophilian restaurant that should delight anyone in search of refuge.

Paloma features high-concept takes on traditional Mexican street food.

#0Ĺ&#x2014;#(Ĺ&#x2014;.)Ĺ&#x2014;3)/,Ĺ&#x2014;"#&"))Ĺ&#x2014;,0#(!-Ĺ&#x2014;1#."Ĺ&#x2014;."#-Ĺ&#x2014;(3Ĺ&#x2014; shop that features more than 250 varieties.

Catahoula Bar and Restaurant

Sabrinaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s CafĂŠ

910-912 Christian St., 215-574-1599, sabrinascafe.com

Tall Cow

Expect flexible hours, and down-home Louisiana cooking.

Arguably the best brunch in town, the original &).#)(Ĺ&#x2014; ) Ĺ&#x2014; ."#-Ĺ&#x2014; 0!Ä&#x161; ,#(&3Ĺ&#x2014; .,3Ĺ&#x2014; )ĂŽ,-Ĺ&#x2014; Ĺ&#x2014; creative menu at fantastic value.

This candy-colored shop is heaven for those seeking the perfect not-Hallmark card.

Cochon

Sarconeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s

716 S. Fourth St., 215-413-5809, wilburvintage.blogspot.com

)")(Ĺ&#x2014; " Ä&#x17E;)Ä&#x161;)1(,Ĺ&#x2014; (Ĺ&#x2014; #/ĂśĹ&#x2014; */&&-Ĺ&#x2014; )ĂŽĹ&#x2014; French bistro food gracefully, breathing just the right amount of freshness into old classics.

The quintessential Philly hoagie experience starts with the softest-on-the-inside, crustieston-the-outside rolls.

Embroidered platforms, â&#x20AC;&#x2122;60s-inspired dresses, thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve gone in and out of style a dozen times â&#x20AC;&#x201D; you name it, Wilburâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s acquired it.

Dmitriâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s

Shot Tower Coffee

542 Christian St., 267-886-8049

PARKS + REC Bardascino Park

The original, teensy-as-all-get-out BYOB Dmitriâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s is the perfect place for flawless seafood.

This prohibition-era-inspired cafĂŠ is the perfect place to get a friendly jolt.

10th and Carpenter streets, bardascinopark.org

Bicycle Revolutions

Essene Market

Southwark

756 S. Fourth St., 215-629-2453, bicyclerevolutions.com

701 S. Fourth St., 215-238-1888

Palumbo Rec Center

623 S. Sixth St., 215-925-8000, bistrotlaminette.com

775 S. Front St., 215-271-9300, catahoularestaurant.com

801 E. Passyunk Ave., 215-923-7675, cochonbyob.com

795 S. Third St., 215-625-0556

719 S. Fourth St., 215-922-1146, essenemarket.com/index.php

This natural-foods store features vegan and macrobiotic grocery goodies, plus vitamins, housewares, cosmetics, bulk foods â&#x20AC;&#x201D; and even shoes. Famous 4th Street Delicatessen 700 S. Fourth St., 215-922-3274

Nobody knows Jewish-Euro noshing like this deli just south of South. Come hungry â&#x20AC;&#x201D; the portions are right outta your pushy motherâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s kitchen.

763 S. Eighth St., 215-928-9500, palomafinedining.com

734 S. Ninth St., 215-922-1717, sarconesdeli.com

The menu is seasonal, original â&#x20AC;&#x201D; and global, as well. From the list of desserts, we canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t resist Southwarkâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s homemade ice cream. ARTS + CULTURE Da Vinci Art Alliance 704 Catharine St., 215-829-0466, davinciartalliance.org

Fleisher Art Memorial 719 Catharine St., 215-922-3456, fleisher.org

Golosa CafĂŠ

Regular exhibits and a slew of art classes keep this spot thriving.

Skip the Whitmanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s box and opt for the real thing.

Pageant : Soloveev

806 S. Sixth St., 215-925-1003, golosacafe.com

Hawthornes

607 Bainbridge St., 215-925-1535, pageantsoloveev.com

738 S. 11th St., 215-627-3012, hawthornecafe.com

Society Hill Playhouse

Perhaps the coolest feature in the space is a custom gizmo that allows the owners to pressurefill 64-ounce growlers with hard-to-find craft beers â&#x20AC;&#x201D; think Russian River and Lost Abbey.

507 S. Eighth St., 215-923-0210, societyhillplayhouse.org

This Victorian-style venue hosts many new comedies and East Coast premières.

Johnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Water Ice

407 Bainbridge St., 215-413-1318, phillyimprovtheater.com

701 Christian St., 215-925-6955, johnswaterice.com

Old-school water ice so enticing, it warranted a visit from Barack Obama. (He got the lemon, FYI.) Kennett Restaurant

848 S. Second St., 267-687-1426, kennettrestaurant.com

Reopening the 1924 establishment, this sustainability-focused spot brings a creative edge to the local food scene. Little Fish

746 S. Sixth St., 267-455-0127, littlefishbyob.com

Once voted one of the top seafood restaurants in America, this BYO is a must for fans of fish. Monsu

901 Christian St., 215-440-0495

Cooking with spices from across the globe, this )(Ä&#x161;-.)*Ĺ&#x2014; Ăł0),Ĺ&#x2014; -")*Ĺ&#x2014; )ĂŽ,-Ĺ&#x2014; 0,3."#(!Ĺ&#x2014; ,)'Ĺ&#x2014; ##&#(Ĺ&#x2014;,0#)&#Ĺ&#x2014;.)Ĺ&#x2014;-&')(Ä&#x161;-./ĂŽĹ&#x2014;*/ĂŽĹ&#x2014;*-.,3Ä&#x201E;Ĺ&#x2014; Morning Glory Diner

735 S. 10th St., 215-413-3999, themorningglorydiner.com

If youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve never tried a veggie burger, this is the place to do it â&#x20AC;&#x201D; and donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t forget to ask for a side of homemade ketchup.

Shubin Theatre

The home of Philly Improv Theater has a teeny stage thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s perfect for audience participation. SHOPPING Bus Stop

750 S. Fourth St., 215-627-2357, busstopboutique.com

The only Philly shoe store Carrie Bradshaw would realistically set her Manolos in. Community

712 S. Fourth St., 267-861-0544

Artistic skate boards and boutique BMX bikes fill this Fourth Street space. Passional

704 S. Fifth St., 215-829-4986, passionalboutique.com

â&#x20AC;&#x153;Unmentionableâ&#x20AC;? takes on new meaning at this sassy boutique whose tagline says it all: â&#x20AC;&#x153;Corsets. Passion. Fashion.â&#x20AC;? Philly AIDS Thrift

710 S. Fifth St., 215-922-3186, phillyaidsthrift.com

This nonprofit â&#x20AC;&#x201D; in a brand-new space the size of a freakinâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; warehouse â&#x20AC;&#x201D; hawks all sorts of donated goodies; proceeds go to local HIV/AIDS orgs.

630 S. Fourth St., 215-923-8800, phillysweettooth.com

616 S. Third St., 267-909-8195, tallcowshop.com

Wilbur Vintage

10th and Fitzwater streets, palumbosoccer.org


THE HOODS

photo by Neal Santos

Ten Stone

2063 South St., 215-735-9939, tenstone.com

GRADUATE HOSPITAL/GRAYS FERRY/SOUTH STREET WEST YOUR SOUTH PHILLY STARTER KIT.

Warm lighting, tons of tables, an extensive beer list, occasional live music and good, unpretentious food (try the focaccia) make Ten Stone a worthwhile visit. RESTAURANTS + MARKETS Ants Pants Cafe

A compact, largely residential quadrant which reaches from South to Washington and from Broad to Grayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Ferry Avenue, the area jokily called G-Ho has everything but the Graduate Hospital it was named for, which closed in 2007. Though less heavily trafficked by pedestrians than the east side of South, the street does serve as the commercial hub of the â&#x20AC;&#x2122;hood, which grows more residential and slightly sketchier as you travel south. Some of that sketch is being drawn over in Grays Ferry, where the sounds of construction are putting affordable properties in the spotlight.

YOU SHOULD KNOW â&#x20AC;Ś Thank the Grays Ferry Community Council (graysferrycc.org) for all that new development. Graduate Hospital falls within the cityâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Second District, represented through 2011 by Councilwoman Anna Verna (215-686-3412).

2212 South St., 215-875-8002, antspantscafe.com

EXPLORE â&#x20AC;Ś BARS + CLUBS Grace Tavern

2001 Fitzwater St., 215-546-1002, beautyshopcafe.com

WHILE YOUâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;RE HERE â&#x20AC;Ś Ä&#x160;")Ĺ&#x2014;(-Ĺ&#x2014; ,#-Ĺ&#x2014;1"(Ĺ&#x2014;."Ĺ&#x2014;&%(Ĺ&#x2014;!,(Ĺ&#x2014;(-Ĺ&#x2014; at Grace Tavern are so addictive? Oh, hell, get the fries, too Ä&#x160;#,&# .Ĺ&#x2014; .)Ĺ&#x2014; ,#-Ĺ&#x2014; 1#."Ĺ&#x2014; $/-.Ĺ&#x2014; )(Ĺ&#x2014; #.Ĺ&#x2014; ) Ĺ&#x2014; (Ä&#x161; /Ĺ&#x2014; Fannyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s ethereal crĂŞpes at CafĂŠ Lâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Aube Ä&#x160; .Ĺ&#x2014; 3)/,Ĺ&#x2014; #((,Ĺ&#x2014; !,('Ĺ&#x2014; ,/(Ĺ&#x2014; ,Ĺ&#x2014; )(Ĺ&#x2014; %(#..#(!Ĺ&#x2014; projects at Loop Ä&#x160;."Ĺ&#x2014; ,!Ĺ&#x2014; -")1Ĺ&#x2014; "/,-3Ĺ&#x2014; ),Ĺ&#x2014; 1%(Ĺ&#x2014; $44Ĺ&#x2014; .Ĺ&#x2014; Bob & Barbaraâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Ä&#x160;!Ĺ&#x2014; &#%Ĺ&#x2014; Ĺ&#x2014; #%#(!Ĺ&#x2014; .Ĺ&#x2014; Tritone on punk rock karaoke night, complete with live backing band

Jet Wine Bar

2229 Grays Ferry Ave., 215-893-9580, gracetavern.com

Vintage beauty aside, Grace offers an impressive beer selection and delectable grub. 1525 South St., 215-735-1116, jetwinebar.com

Penn archaeologist Jill Weberâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s swanky bilevel lounge features wine selections from across the globe and a light menu of cheese and charcuterie. Resurrection Ale House

2425 Grays Ferry Ave., 215-735-2202, resurrectionalehouse.com

The beer list here is kick-ass: 13 fairly priced drafts, plus a few dozen up-market bottles dominated by Belgian imports. Sidecar Bar & Grille

2201 Christian St., 215-732-3429, thesidecarbar.com

Miller High Life specials coexist with a craft brew-leaning draft selection and smarter-thanyour-average bar eats.

56

CITY GUIDE 2011 - 2012

This tiny Aussie coffeehouse greets you with glass cases full of cookies, scones, muffins and cakes. The hybrid breakfast/lunch menu features intriguing variations on typical cafĂŠ fare. Beauty Shop CafĂŠ

Beauty Shop is the first cafĂŠ in the city to carry beans roasted by Chestnut Hill Coffee Co. CafĂŠ lâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Aube

1512 South St., 215-546-1550, cafelaube.com

Jean-Luc Fanny occasionally pops in to whip up crĂŞpes and waffles (and slender French-style sandwiches) that are better than just about any in town. Divan Turkish Kitchen

918 S. 22nd St., 215-545-5790, divanturkishkitchen.com

When it comes to laid-back comfort and straightforward, unpretentious flavors, siblings Ilker and Fulya Ugur have concocted a formula that serves them well in this rapidly changing part of town. Govindaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Gourmet Vegetarian

1408 South St., 215-985-9303, govindasvegetarian.com

Open since 1985, this fine-dining BYOB was vegetarian before being veggie was all the rage. Donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t have time to sit? Stop in to their to-go spot next door.


Healthy Bites To-Go

2521 Christian St., 215-259-TOGO, healthybitesdelivery.com

This cozy corner space across Grays Ferry Avenue offers soups and sandwiches to go, plus rotating pre-prepared specialties to take home for dinner. Everything will reflect the owner/chef/ dietician Katie Cavuto Boyleâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s fresh/healthy/ local approach. Jamaican Jerk Hut

1436 South St., 215-545-8644, jajerkhut.com

A casual BYOB on South, the Jerk Hut combines authentic Caribbean food with outdoor seating, making the restaurant a delightful place for a summer dinner. La Va CafĂŠ

2100 South St., 215-545-1508, lava-cafe.com

La Va has become a prime destination for any caffeine buzz-craving local with a laptop. OCF Coffee House

1745 South St., 215-735-7368

(Ĺ&#x2014;)ĂŽ-")).Ĺ&#x2014;) Ĺ&#x2014;Ĺ&#x2014;&.3Ä&#x2026;Ĺ&#x2014;."#-Ĺ&#x2014;)ĂŽĹ&#x2014;-*).Ĺ&#x2014;)-.-Ĺ&#x2014; Counter Culture coffee, Four Worlds Bakery breads and Sweet Life treats. Phoebeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Bar-B-Q

2214 South St., 215-546-4811, phoebesbbq.com

Pumpkin

1713 South St., 215-545-4448, pumpkinphilly.com

Pumpkin lights a beacon of BYOB excellence on South Street West: The service is perfect and the setup is thoughtful down to the smallest details. A block away, Pumpkin Market (1610 South St., 215-545-3924) offers locally sourced sandwiches, soups, smoothies and more. Sawatdee

1501 South St., 215-790-1299

Brand-new Thai BYO Sawatdee (Thai for â&#x20AC;&#x153;helloâ&#x20AC;?) serves affordable lunch and dinner fare, from tom kha gai to multicolored curries. Sweet Freedom

1424 South St., 215-545-1899, sweetfreedombakery.com

The egg-, sugar-, dairy- and gluten-free sweets offered at this quaint cafĂŠ and bakery are just as delicious as their junk-food counterparts â&#x20AC;&#x201D; and they wonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t zap you into a sugar coma. MUSIC Bob & Barbaraâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Lounge 1509 South St., 215-545-4511

The live entertainment at this South Street staple is as diverse as the Pabst-chugging clientele â&#x20AC;&#x201D; catch jazz acts, drunken spelling bee contests and a weekly drag show hosted by Miss Lisa Lisa.

Tritone

1508 South St., 215-545-0475, tritonebar.com

An eclectic and diverse mix of folk, jazz, DJ and rock acts available for a minimal cover charge almost every day of the week. SHOPPING Girl.Bike.Dog.

625 South 23rd St., 215-253-8364, girlbikedog.com

Youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll never guess the target audience of this G-Ho shop: girls who ride bikes and have dogs â&#x20AC;&#x201D; and who want to look cute while doing it. Loop

1914 South St., 215-893-9939, loopknits.com

Been considering a knitting habit? This South Street yarn shop sells everything you could possibly need to get hooked. Spool

1912 South St., 215-545-0755, store.spoolsewing.com

Loopâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s fabric-focused sister store also offers sewing classes for beginners and pros alike. PARKS + REC Julian Abele Park

22nd and Carpenter streets, julianabelepark.org

Marian Anderson Recreation Center

744 South 17th St., 215-413-1318, mariananderson.org

Bicycle Therapy

Strictly a takeout and delivery joint proffering all manner of barbecued delights. The rotisserie chicken is an absolute must.

2211 South St., 215-735-7849, bicycletherapy.com

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great beer, wine & spirits Blackened Green Beans #JTUSP4BMBEt'SFTI$IJDLFO 4BMBEt'SFTI#VSHFSPO-F#VT #SJPDIF#VOt+BNCBMBZB 0ZTUFS1P#PZXSFNPVMBEF TBVDFt'SFTI4BVTBHF 4BOEXJDIFTt'SFTI1PNNF 'SJUFTX.POLT#PVSCPO.BZP


THE HOODS

photos by Neal Santos

send-up, the Ugly American boasts a thoughtful list of domestic microbrews, plus inventive food that spins new takes on regional cuisine.

SOUTH PHILLY WITâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; OR WITâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;OUT? Attempting to define the huge swath of city south of Washington between the Delaware and Schuylkill Rivers is like trying to put a hairnet on a Hellâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Angel: unnecessary and dangerous. Pennsport, Southwark, Wharton, Newbold, LoMo â&#x20AC;Ś with so many neighborhoods, trying to apply just one adjective to big, bad â&#x20AC;&#x2122;ol Souf Philly is an exercise in failure. That said, if you yell, â&#x20AC;&#x153;Yo, Antny!â&#x20AC;? at any corner, someone will turn around; bread is serious business; and yes, you can actually park legally in the middle of Broad Street. WHILE YOUâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;RE HERE â&#x20AC;Ś Ä&#x160;,#**3Ĺ&#x2014; &##)/-Ĺ&#x2014; -(1#"-Ĺ&#x2014; (Ĺ&#x2014; )&Ä&#x161;-"))&Ĺ&#x2014; attytood are always on tap at Nickâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Roast Beef Ä&#x160;Ă°(Ĺ&#x2014;3)/,Ĺ&#x2014;-%.),Ĺ&#x2014;-.3&Ĺ&#x2014;,)**#(!Ĺ&#x2014;#(Ĺ&#x2014;)(Ĺ&#x2014;."Ĺ&#x2014; ramps at FDR Park, or pedal around the lake the park is known for (mind the snakefish) Ä&#x160;(!Ĺ&#x2014; Ĺ&#x2014; "*)Ĺ&#x2014; -.(#(!Ä&#x161;,))'Ĺ&#x2014; -.Ĺ&#x2014; ),Ĺ&#x2014; Ĺ&#x2014; "#&-Ĺ&#x2014; game at airy Citizens Bank Park Ä&#x160; )#(Ĺ&#x2014;."Ĺ&#x2014; ,#(&3Ĺ&#x2014;'3"'Ĺ&#x2014;) Ĺ&#x2014;1Ĺ&#x2014;,Ä&#x201C;-Ĺ&#x2014;3Ĺ&#x2014;)(Ĺ&#x2014; Two Street after the Mummers Parade Ä&#x160;,,Ĺ&#x2014;(3."#(!Ĺ&#x2014; ,)'Ĺ&#x2014;South Philly Tap Room YOU SHOULD KNOW â&#x20AC;Ś Every microneighborhood in South Philly seems to have its own group, from the Lower Moyamensing Civic Association (lomophilly. org) to the Pennsport Civic Association 58

CITY GUIDE 2011 - 2012

Watkins Drinkery

1712 S. 10th St., 215-339-0175

Expect a local vibe with a surprising menu. Plus, happy hour is seven days a week. Show-offs. (pennsportcivic.org). First District Councilman Frank DiCicco (215-686-3458) and Second District Councilwoman Anna Verna (215-686-3412), both Democrats, have served South Philadelphia for years. Their terms are up at the end of 2011. EXPLORE â&#x20AC;Ś BARS + CLUBS Devilâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Den

1148 S. 11th St., 215-339-0855, devilsdenphilly.com

A destination for a true suds-lover, Devilâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Den features 20-ish beers on tap and 150-200 bottles in the cold case. Cheers! The Dolphin Tavern

1539 S. Broad St., 215-467-1752

From the outside, the Dolphin looks like the kind of tiny, dingy dive bar where drinks are cheap and amateur strippers sometimes put on electrical tape and dance on wobbly tables. But itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s actually quite large. South Philadelphia Tap Room

RESTAURANTS + MARKETS August

1247 S. 13th St., 215-468-5926, augustbyob.com

Expect a menu featuring seasonal specialties â&#x20AC;&#x201D; plus a pumpkin pie that regulars keep insisting on. Ba Le

606 Washington Ave., 215-389-4350

Offering Vietnamese baked goods, grocery items, bubble teas and amazing banh mi on the cheap. Beer Heaven

1100 S. Columbus Blvd., Suite 23, 215-271-5248

Beer Heaven, in a nondescript strip mall on a busy byway, features an amazing selection of brews. Brew/Ultimo Coffee Bar

1900 S. 15th St., 215-339-5177, ultimocoffee.wordpress.com

This pleasant little two-fer offers artisanal coffee, sandwiches and veggie delights â&#x20AC;&#x201D; plus microbrewed beers for mix-a-sixing.

1509 Mifflin St., 215-271-7787, southphiladelphiataproom.com

CafĂŠ de Laos

The crown jewel of Newbold, the SPTR hosts a cross-section of South Philly drinkers: old and young, black and white, business and bohemian. And they all rave about the food, too.

Affordable and delicious Thai and Laotian in a neighborhood dominated by Vietnamese.

The Ugly American

This fourth-generation brick-oven bakery has expanded its franchise in recent years, South Philly is still its homebase. Taste the cannoli.

1100 S. Front St., 215-336-1100, uglyamericanphilly.com

More of a tongue-in-cheek celebration than a

1117 S. 11th St., 215-467-1546

Caciaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s

1526 W. Ritner St., 215-334-1340, caciabakery.com


THE HOODS: SOUTH PHILLY

Carman’s Country Kitchen

Strange Brew Coffee

CHI Movement Arts Center

There are only about four tables and a half-dozen counter seats at this quirky brunch spot, but gracious owner Carman Luntzel always manages to fit in every last hungry customer.

A newbie on a block that’s seriously lacking in java, Strange Brew deals in “kick-ass coffee, good conversations, awesome artwork and some killer music.”

Home to Kun Yang-Lin Dancers, the CHI Movement Arts Center also hosts dance and other movement classes for all experience levels.

Circles

Taqueria La Veracruzana

1100 S. Second St., 215-336-3050, mummersmuseum.com

Praised around the city for its intensely delicious pumpkin curry, Circles provides cheap Thai cuisine to the masses, with plenty of vegan options.

This no-frills Mexican joint does serious justice to the phrase “south of the border.”

Federal Donuts

Self-style renaissance man Tony Luke has dipped his toe into movies and music, but nothing draws a crowd like his cheesesteaks.

1301 S. 11th St., 215-339-9613

1514 Tasker St., 267-687-1778, circlesnewbold.com

1219 S. Second St., federaldonuts.com

The new kid on the Pennsport block, Federal Donuts has a simple, three-pronged business plan that’s bound to be a hit: Stumptown coffee, artisanal doughnuts and fried chicken. Green Eggs Café

1306 Dickinson St., 215-226-EGGS, greeneggscafe.net

The “green” in the name refers to the owners’ ecofriendly approach to doing business. The “eggs”? Self-explanatory. Grindcore House

1515 S. Fourth St., 215-839-3333, grindcorehouse.com

A vegan coffee house in a surprising location, offering baked goods, java, movie screenings and art exhibits.

1321 S. Second St., 215-300-6216

908 Washington Ave., 215-465-1440

Tony Luke’s 39 East Oregon Ave,, 215-551-5725, tonylukes.com

MUSIC Victor Café

1303 Dickinson St., 215-468-3040, victorcafe.com

Expect the usual — an old-school Italian menu peppered with antipasti, daily fish specials and all manner of pasta — and the unusual: This restaurant features live opera singing seven nights a week. Wells Fargo Center

3601 S. Broad St., 215-336-3600, wellsfargocenterphilly.com

Los Gallos

When the Sixers and Flyers aren’t battling it out, the large indoor venue hosts big national acts like Ke$ha and Paul McCartney.

Boasting incredibly cheap, delicious Mexican fare, from quesadillas to football-size tortas.

ARTS + CULTURE American Swedish Historical Museum

SLiCE

1900 Pattison Ave., 215-389-1776, americanswedish.org

951 Wolf St., 215-551-1245

1180 S. 10th St., 215-463-0868, slicepa.com

This cash-only gourmet takeout joint has freshness on the brain.

1316 S. Ninth St., 267-687-3739, kunyanglin.org

Mummers Museum

A museum space dedicated to celebrating one of Philly’s strangest traditions. New Alhambra Arena

7 Ritner St., 215-755-0611, thearena.biz

Hosts martial arts, concerts, boxing and pro wrestling events. The Rock School

1101 S. Broad St., 215-551-7010, therockschool.org

A school for young dancers that puts on performances of such classics as The Nutcracker. Theatre Exile

1340 S. 13th St., 215-218-4022, theatreexile.org

PARKS + REC Citizens Bank Park

1 Citizens Bank Park Way, 215-463-1000, citizensbank.com/ballpark

FDR Park

Broad and Pattison streets, fdrskatepark.org

Lincoln Financial Field

1 NovaCare Way, 215-339-6700, lincolnfinancialfield.com

It’s an odd location for a history museum, but that means the quirk factor is amped: Expect everything from crayfish parties to Swedish language classes, in addition to regular exhibits. CITYPAPER.NET

59


THE HOODS

photos by Neal Santos

Sticks & Stones 1909 E. Passyunk Ave., 215-964-9127

EAST PASSYUNK/ITALIAN MARKET WOULD YOU LIKE US TO COOK THAT FOR YOU? East Passyunk Avenue (say it: PASH-unk) runs in a northeastern diagonal line between Broad and South streets. For our purposes, weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re considering the East Passyunk â&#x20AC;&#x2122;hood anything on the Avenue from Broad to Washington. In recent years, the childrenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s boutiques and Italian restaurants that have occupied East Passyunk for decades have been joined by a grip of new bars and shops. A similar change has begun in the Italian Market, where the Ninth Street corridor below Washington would be better named the Mexican Market. The entire zone is a Bermuda Triangle of stellar food; eat everything you see. WHILE YOUâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;RE HERE â&#x20AC;Ś Ä&#x160;,,Ĺ&#x2014; ."Ĺ&#x2014; ('-%Ĺ&#x2014; -.,)')&#Ĺ&#x2014; .Ĺ&#x2014; Stogie Joeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s and donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t sweat the calories Ä&#x160;#(%Ĺ&#x2014; 3)/,Ĺ&#x2014; .."Ĺ&#x2014; #(.)Ĺ&#x2014; Ĺ&#x2014; ").Ä&#x161; ,)'Ä&#x161;."Ä&#x161;)0(Ĺ&#x2014; -) .Ĺ&#x2014; pretzel at Center City Pretzel Co. from midnight to dawn Ä&#x160;,3Ĺ&#x2014;  ),Ĺ&#x2014; 3)/Ĺ&#x2014; /3Ĺ&#x2014; .Ĺ&#x2014; DiBruno Bros., the heaviest-hitting cheese geeks in town Ä&#x160;!&Ĺ&#x2014;"#*-.,Ĺ&#x2014;,)3&.3Ĺ&#x2014;1"#&Ĺ&#x2014;,#(%#(!Ĺ&#x2014;, .3Ĺ&#x2014;.Ĺ&#x2014;."Ĺ&#x2014; P.O.P.E. Ä&#x160;)'*,Ĺ&#x2014; ...))-Ĺ&#x2014; )0,Ĺ&#x2014; )ĂŽÄ&#x2026;Ĺ&#x2014; -'))."#-Ĺ&#x2014; (Ĺ&#x2014; vegan soft-serve at staple coffeehouse B2 60

CITY GUIDE 2011 - 2012

YOU SHOULD KNOW â&#x20AC;Ś For helpful resources and numbers, visit passyunksquare.org and italianmarketphilly. org. Your First District Councilman, until January 2012, is Frank DiCicco (215-686-3458). EXPLORE â&#x20AC;Ś BARS + CLUBS Lucky 13 Pub

1820 S. 13th St., 215-336-8467, lucky13pubphilly.com

Pâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;unk Ave. is a friendly corridor for fans of good beer, so Lucky runs six mostly local brews on tap. Pub on Passyunk East

1501 East Passyunk Ave., 215-755-5125, pubonpassyunkeast.com

The P.O.P.E. combines a mind-boggling draft selection (check the big chalk boards), killer bottle list (ask for the book), pub food and, on weekends, wall-to-wall skinny jeans and rompers. Rayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Happy Birthday Bar

1200 E. Passyunk Ave., 215-365-1169, thehappybirthdaybar.com

Rayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s is a place where every man â&#x20AC;&#x201D; if only for a night â&#x20AC;&#x201D; can will himself into a chain-smoking, liquor-swilling, joke-peddling member of his own personal Rat Pack.

Check out 12 rotating taps at this Passyunk newbie, plus comfort foods and a few international flavors. Stogie Joeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s

1801 E. Passyunk Ave., 215-463-3030

Their pizza is backward (sauce on top, cheese on the bottom), but donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t be alarmed â&#x20AC;&#x201D; itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s intentional. RESTAURANTS + MARKETS 943 943 S. Ninth St., 215-925-0900

Homemade pasta and ravioli, Italian and Argentinian family recipes, casual family atmosphere, dinner during the week and brunch on the weekends, in the heart of the Italian Market. Anthonyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Chocolate House 915 S. 9th St., 215-627-5080

Just a couple blocks from Anthonyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s coffeehouse counterpart, this is where Anthony flexes his chocolate muscle, specializing in chocolate covered anything and gelato. B2

1500 E. Passyunk Ave., 215-271-5520

The menu at Bennaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s second shop is similar to the original, with soups, pastries and an expanded sandwich menu. Old City Coffee is still the java of choice. Black N Brew

1523 E. Passyunk Ave., 267-639-6070, blackbrew.net

You canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t miss this funky-looking neighborhood corner coffee shop, or the Isaiah Zagar mosaic adorning its facade.


The Bottle Shop

Fond

A boutique beer haven stocked to the gills with mix-a-six-ables.

The pacing is as good as the food, and the down-toearth service bears the stamp of full investment.

Cannuli’s

Fuel

The Italian Market spot to pick up a nice-lookin’ piece of meat — some veal, lamb, beef, poultry or even a whole hog for your spitfire, that is.

After a few bites at Rocco Cima’s healthconscious Passyunk Avenue spot, it’s clear this Q102 personality knows how to rock more than one kind of mixer.

1837 E. Passyunk Ave., 215-551-5551, bottleshopbeer.com

937 S. Ninth St., 215-922-2988, cannulismeats.com

Cantina Los Caballitos

1617 E. Passyunk Ave., 215-551-5000, fondphilly.com

1917 E. Passyunk Ave., 215-468-FUEL, fuelphilly.com

fashioned machine asks you to leave details for Friday, Saturday or Sunday — the only days it’s open. If no one calls you back, you’re good to go. Paesano’s

1017 S. Ninth St., 215-440-0371, paesanosphillystyle.com

Recently relocated from Ninth and Christian, and with a second location on Girard Avenue, Paesano’s is the place for true hoagie indulgence. Paradiso

1627 E. Passyunk Ave., 215-271-2066, paradisophilly.com

Green Aisle Grocery

This elegant ristorante deals in simple Italian fare and fine wines.

This boutique grocery store carries specialized products that make the foodies swoon.

Pat’s King of Steaks

Capogiro Gelateria

Izumi

In South Philly’s first Capogiro, local artisans restored the original counter stools to keep the gravy-ladling grandma charm alive.

South Philly couple Corey Baver and Lynn Rinaldi were tired of trekking to Morimoto or Sagami for sushi — now their neighbors won’t have to, either.

Welcome to the Cheesesteak Capital of the Universe, located at the corner of Passyunk and Wharton in South Philly, where Pat’s competes with blindingly neon Geno’s.

Claudio’s

1927 E. Passyunk Ave., 215-271-5626, levirtu.com

1651 E. Passyunk Ave., 215-755-3550, cantinaloscaballitos.com

The folks responsible for one South Philly favorite — the Royal Tavern — has another in the Cantina, located in the heart of Passyunk Avenue. 1625 E. Passyunk Ave., 215-462-3790

924-26 S. Ninth St., 215-627-1873, claudiofood.com

Boasting its status as King of Cheeses could invite some snickers, but Claudio’s restores its dignity with an extensive menu of fresh specialty foods. DiBruno Bros.

930 S. Ninth St., 215-922-2876, dibruno.com

Yes, there’s always a line at this Italian Market mainstay, but the cheesemongers’ dairy-based expertise/willingness to dole out gigantic samples explains it/makes it all worth it.

1618 E. Passyunk Ave., 215-465-1411, greenaislegrocery.com

1601 E. Passyunk Ave., 215-271-1222, izumiphilly.com

Le Virtu

Le Virtù has established itself as one of the finer destinations on an already-pretty fine stretch of restaurant-lined pavement on East Passyunk. Marra’s

1734 E. Passyunk Ave., 215-463-9249, marraone.com

Marra’s set its roots in East Passyunk in 1927, making itself known for its thin-crust pizza.

1237 E. Passyunk Ave., 215-468-1546, patskingofsteaks.com

Plenty

1710 E. Passyunk Ave., 267-909-8033, plentyphiladelphia.com

Tired of your same lame office luncheons? Let Plenty cater next time. They provide gourmet prepared foods and sandwiches with only local, in-season ingredients and meats smoked in-house. Eat-in and take-out options are available, too.

Mr. Martino’s Trattoria

1646 Passyunk Ave., 215-755-0663

Call for a reservation, and a voice on an oldCITYPAPER.NET

61


THE HOODS: EAST PASSYUNK/ITALIAN MARKET Rim Café

1172 S. Ninth St., 215-465-3515, rimcafe.com

Rim Café is a gentle refuge from the city’s gruff cheesesteak epicenter. Customers can get a jolt well into the evening, as the café’s open late. Salt & Pepper

1623 E. Passyunk Ave., 215-238-1920, saltandpepperphilly.com

After recently moving from Fitzwater Street, this American bistro has expanded into a full restaurant and bar — but hasn’t changed its mission to keep its menu seasonal. MUSIC Connie’s RicRac

1132 S. Ninth St., 215-279-7587, conniesricrac.com

This up-and-comer was once an electronics store owned by Mrs. Tartaglia, until her sons did good and transformed it into a successful venue for local rock bands. She must be so proud. SHOPPING Chartreuse

1616 E. Passyunk Ave., 215-545-7711, chartreuseflorist.com

Chartreuse draws upon a Parisian sensibility to create a beautiful floral shop brimming with international flower varieties and home décor crafted by local artists. Fabric Horse

they’ve got a huge variety of utility belts, bags and other hand-stitched gear. Fante’s

1006 S. Ninth St., 215-922-5557, fantes.com

Head to Fante’s to pick up the kitchenware that makes dinner possible — they’ve got cake pans and espresso makers, pomegranate seed removers and frozen-herb mills. Metro Men’s Clothing

1615 E. Passyunk Ave., 267-324-5172

Sweet Jane Vintage

1742 E. Passyunk Ave., 215-339-0882

Offering a mixture of 1970s vintage and designer brands, Sweet Jane Vintage is a must for hipster girls caught up in the rat race that is fashion. Philadelphia Scooters Inc.

1733 E. Passyunk Ave., 215-336-8255, philadelphiascooters.com

They carry all the big names — Genuine, Vespa, Kymco — plus all of your accessory needs.

Stylish duds for dapper dudes in the heart of East Passyunk.

Urban Jungle

Molly’s Books & Records

Pick up the tools needed for digging into the growing urban gardening scene.

1010 S. Ninth St., 215-923-3367, mollysbookstore.com

After adding records to their arsenal, Molly’s has something for every hip vinyl revivalist — but can still keep any bookworm busy. Nice Things Handmade

1731 E. Passyunk Ave., 267-455-0256

Nice Things has more swank ceramics, jewelry, clothing, prints and other art from local artists than you’ll even know what to do with. South Philly Comics

1621 E. Passyunk Ave., 267-318-7855, facebook.com/rko.south

1526 E. Passyunk Ave., 215-952-0811, urbanjunglephila.com

PARKS + REC Bell’s Bike Shop

1320 E. Passyunk Ave., 888-901-9990, bellsbikeshop.com

Capitolo Playground

Ninth and Federal streets, 215-685-1883

Fitness Works

Reed Street between Seventh and Eighth, 215-334-8190, fitnessworks.com

Singing Fountain Park

Tasker and East Passyunk avenues, epxcrossing.org

South Philly Comics sells, well, comics, along with an array of nerd paraphernalia.

1737 E. Passyunk Ave., 215-694-9034, fabrichorse.com

They invented the U-Lock holster, and now

947 E. PASSYUNK AVE

NEW AND IMPROVED

(7th & Carpenter)

215.465.5505

Facebook.com/thedivebar

citypaper.net Corner of 10th and Watkins

1712 South 10th 215.339.0175

Facebook.com/watkinsdrinkery


THE HOODS

photos by Neal Santos

The Wine Thief

7152 Germantown Ave., 215-242-6700, winethiefbistro.com

GERMANTOWN/MOUNT AIRY/CHESTNUT HILL OVER THE RIVER AND THROUGH THE WOODS. Though just a short regional rail trip off the grid, Chestnut Hill, Mount Airy and Germantown represent a charming, verdant respite from the urban grid while remaining part of the city. The three nabes are bounded by Stenton Avenue on the east and Wissahickon Creek on the west, and centered on Germantown Avenue. Chestnut Hill begins at the northern tip-top of city limits and runs down to Cresheim Valley Road; Mount Airy picks up where Chestnut Hill left off, extending to Washington Lane; and Germantown brings us on home at Wister Avenue. Tree-lined streets, lush parks, backyards with actual grass, plus handy proximity to the expansive Wissahickon Valley Trail make this one of Phillyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s prettiest places. WHILE YOUâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;RE HERE â&#x20AC;Ś Ä&#x160;.)*Ĺ&#x2014;#(Ĺ&#x2014; ),Ĺ&#x2014;Ĺ&#x2014;*#(.Ĺ&#x2014;(Ĺ&#x2014;-(1#"Ĺ&#x2014;.Ĺ&#x2014;"-.(/.Ĺ&#x2014;#&&Ĺ&#x2014; institution McNallyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Tavern Ä&#x160;%Ĺ&#x2014;."Ĺ&#x2014;%#-Ĺ&#x2014; ),Ĺ&#x2014;Ĺ&#x2014;./'&Ĺ&#x2014;.Ĺ&#x2014;#()),Ĺ&#x2014;*&3!,)/(Ĺ&#x2014; The Little Treehouse Ä&#x160; ,(Ĺ&#x2014; ")1Ĺ&#x2014; .)Ĺ&#x2014; /#&Ĺ&#x2014; Ĺ&#x2014; ))%-Ĺ&#x2014; 1#."Ĺ&#x2014; &---Ĺ&#x2014; .Ĺ&#x2014; The Furniture Workshop Ä&#x160;)Ĺ&#x2014; %Ĺ&#x2014; .)Ĺ&#x2014; (./,Ĺ&#x2014; )(Ĺ&#x2014; ."Ĺ&#x2014; Wissahickon Valley Trail â&#x20AC;&#x201D; just mind the horse apples Ä&#x160; )#(Ĺ&#x2014; Weavers Way Co-op for access to great whole foods at competitive prices

YOU SHOULD KNOW â&#x20AC;Ś City Councilwoman Donna Reed Miller currently represents the Eighth District (215-686-3424); the Germantown Avenue Coalition (gtownave.com) promotes businesses and events along the Ave in all three neighborhoods. EXPLORE â&#x20AC;Ś BARS + CLUBS Earth Bread + Brewery

7136 Germantown Ave., 215-242-MOON, earthbreadbrewery.com

Enough kettles and urns to serve up a changing roster of four housemade beers at a time. McMenaminâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Tavern

7170 Germantown Ave, 215-247-9920

This is the perfect spot in Mount Airy to watch Philly sports. Whether youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re in the mood to catch a game or not, McMenaminâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s chef is no joke, so the food wonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t disappoint. McNallyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Tavern

8634 Germantown Ave., 215-247-9736, mcnallystavern.com

Established in 1921, McNallyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Tavern is a cozy place to sidle up with a pint of Guinness; the pubâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s also the home of infamously huge Schmitter, so come hungry.

Serving continental comfort food in cozy Mount Airy â&#x20AC;&#x201D; plus an â&#x20AC;&#x153;extensive, inexpensiveâ&#x20AC;? wine list. RESTAURANTS + MARKETS Avenida

7402 Germantown Ave., 267-385-6857, avenidarestaurant.com

Led by a husband-and-wife team, this restaurant delivers an inventive menu from across LatinAmerica. Baker Street Bread Co.

8009 Germantown Ave., 215-248-2500, bakerstreetbread.com

Get your carb-load on: Baker Street sells everything from focaccia and burger rolls to scones and baguettes. Cake

8501 Germantown Ave., 215-247-6887, cakeofchestnuthill.com

A bistro set in what once was a floral conservatory. Not surprisingly, ordering dessert is a must. Campbellâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Place

8337 Germantown Ave., 215-242-1818, campbellsplace.com

A cozy neighborhood spot in Chestnut Hill boasting inventive specials for carnivores and vegetarians alike. Geechee Girl Rice Cafe

6825 Germantown Ave., 215-843-8113, geecheegirlricecafe.com

The emphasis here is on Southern cooking, although the menu features many an international option. CITYPAPER.NET

63


THE HOODS: GERMANTOWN/MOUNT AIRY/CHESTNUT HILL InFusion: A Coffee and Tea Gallery 7133 Germantown Ave., 215-248-1718, infusioncoffeeandtea.com

Coffee, tea, poetry readings and art exhibits are all part of the scene at the mellow, relaxed InFusion. Mica

8609 Germantown Ave., 267-335-3912, micarestaurant.com

A Chestnut Hill newbie, Mica boasts a menu thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a lesson in intense creativity, from appetizer to dessert. Nile CafĂŠ

6008 Germantown Ave., 215-843-4976

Nile CafĂŠ offers a big selection of vegan and vegetarian entrĂŠes, sandwiches, wraps and hoagies, plus non-dairy ice cream, desserts, juice and smoothies. Tiffin

7105 Emlen St., 215-242-3656, tiffin.com

Aside from a small 28-seat dining room, this Mount Airy Tiffin satellite delivers perfectly proportioned boxed lunches and dinners to Philadelphiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s hungry, curry-craving work force. Trolley Car Diner

7619 Germantown Ave., 215-753-1500, trolleycardiner.com

Leave it to the Trolley to craft fluffy, gooey, perfectly cooked omelettes. Even the home fries are banginâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;.

Umbria

7131 Germantown Ave., 215-242-6470

A cheery little restaurant hugging the outskirts of Chestnut Hill, Umbria has been around for a while, dispensing the kind of food we used to call â&#x20AC;&#x153;continental.â&#x20AC;? Fresh veggies, spirited combinations and extremely pleasant service merit return visits. Valley Green Inn

W. Valley Green Road, 215-247-1730, valleygreeninn.com

This cozy, well-appointed spot in the woods is perfect for special-occasion dining. Weavers Way Co-Op

559 Carpenter Lane and 8424 Germantown Ave., 215-843-2350, weaversway.coop

These two neighboring locations of Weavers Way offer fresh produce and other grocery items, with a discount for members of the co-op. MUSIC The Mermaid Inn

7673 Winston Road, 215-247-9797, themermaidinn.net

Mostly local acts play this Chestnut Hill bar-andrestaurant combo nearly every night of the week. Patrons can show off their musical talents at regularly scheduled jam sessions. ARTS + CULTURE Chestnut Hill Gallery

Mount Airy Art Garage

542 W. Carpenter Lane, 215-247-5309, mtairyartgarage.org

Besides its permanent exhibition space, MAAG rents out studios and encourages collaboration. Just earned nonprofit status in April 2010. Philadelphia School of Circus Arts

5900A Greene St., 215-849-1991, phillycircus.com

Take classes in juggling, unicycling, acrobatics â&#x20AC;&#x201D; just about everything under the big top. A clownfree zone. The Quintessence Theatre Group at Sedgwick Theater 7137 Germantown Avenue, 215-240-6055, quintessencetheatre.org

This repertory company has moved into the Sedgwick and is dedicated to putting on classic plays all year long. The Stagecrafters Theater

8130 Germantown Ave., 215-247-8881, thestagecrafters.org

A theatrical mainstay going on 80 years. Woodmere Art Museum

9201 Germantown Ave., 215-247-0476, woodmereartmuseum.org

8117 Germantown Ave., 215-248-2549, chestnuthillgallery.com

Joseph Borrelli and Suzanne Sheeder make space

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on their walls for established artists and up-andcomers. Doubles as a framing shop.

This ginormous Victorian mansion hosts handson workshops and some surprisingly daring painting exhibitions.

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SEEKING HEALTHY COLLEGE EDUCATED MALES AGE 18-39


Wyck Historic House

6026 Germantown Ave., 215-848-1690, wyck.org

The verdant acreage around this colonial mansion boasts colorful gardens, a working farm and a bustling farmers’ market. SHOPPING Artisans on the Avenue

440 Germantown Ave., 215-381-0582, artisansontheavenue.com

Adorable boutique specializing in handmade clothes and jewelry. Chestnut Hill Bootery

8511 Germantown Ave., 215-247-0518

Shoes, part functional, part funky. Big Blue Marble Bookstore

551 Carpenter Lane, 215-844-1870, bigbluemarblebooks.com

Independently owned, the Marble caters to niches: kids books, enviro bibles, feminist science fiction, etc. Hideaway Music

PARKS + REC Allens Lane Art Center

Morris Arboretum

601 W. Allens Lane, 215-248-0546, allenslane.org

100 E. Northwestern Ave., 215-247-5777, morrisarboretum.org

8335 Germantown Ave., 215-247-7405, odoodles.com

Awbury Arboretum

Philly Electric Wheels

Shelves and shelves of board games, craft kits and other non-electronic playthings.

1 Awbury Road, 215-849-2855, awbury.org

550 Carpenter Lane, 215-821-9266, phillyew.com

Cliveden Park

Wissahickon Cyclery

8612 Germantown Ave., 215-248-4434

A friendly place to buy used records. O’Doodle’s Toy Store

Chew Avenue and East Johnson Street, 215-568-0830

The Little Treehouse

10 W. Gravers Lane, 215-247-3637, treehouseplaycafe.com

7837 Germantown Ave., 215-248-2829, wiss-cycles.com


THE HOODS

photos by Neal Santos

WEST PHILADELPHIA/UNIVERSITY CITY/SOUTHWEST PHILLY ALL OF THE ABOVE We wonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t get into the hairy debate over whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s West Philly, whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s University City and whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Southwest Philly, so consider U City centered around Penn and Drexel in the 30 and lower-40 streets, and the Southwest beginning somewhere just below Baltimore and heading all the way to the airport. Stuffed with college students from around the world, West Philly boasts a global array of cuisines. Lined with trees and gracious, spacious twin homes, the wide streets are welcoming in a way that only happens over the river, but be sure to mind the trolley tracks when biking Baltimore Avenue; catch a tire in there and youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re curtains.

YOU SHOULD KNOW â&#x20AC;Ś Founded in 1997, the University City District (universitycity.org) is the e-hub for all sorts of information, from hotels and restaurants to volunteering and public safety. West Philly is represented by Third District Councilwoman Jannie Blackwell (215-686-3418) through 2011; same goes for Anna Verna (215-686-3412), whose Second District extends to Southwest Philly.

New Deck Tavern

WHILE YOUâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;RE HERE â&#x20AC;Ś Ä&#x160;2#.Ĺ&#x2014;3)/,Ĺ&#x2014;,#(Ĺ&#x2014;ÄĄ ),Ĺ&#x2014; ,Ä&#x152;ĢĹ&#x2014;.Ĺ&#x2014;."Ĺ&#x2014;Institute of Contemporary Art Ä&#x160;#(Ĺ&#x2014;)/.Ĺ&#x2014;1".Ĺ&#x2014; (-Ĺ&#x2014;*#44Ĺ&#x2014;#-Ĺ&#x2014;.Ĺ&#x2014;Manakeesh Ä&#x160;(!Ĺ&#x2014;)/.Ĺ&#x2014;)"'#(Ä&#x161;-.3&Ĺ&#x2014;#(Ĺ&#x2014;Clark Park and shop the year-round Saturday farmers market Ä&#x160;)(Ä&#x201C;.Ĺ&#x2014;.,3Ĺ&#x2014;.)Ĺ&#x2014;,#(%Ĺ&#x2014;0,3Ĺ&#x2014;)(Ĺ&#x2014;) Ĺ&#x2014;City Tap Houseâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s 60 drafts Ä&#x160;-.Ĺ&#x2014;"#&&3Ĺ&#x2014;-1#'-Ĺ&#x2014;#(Ĺ&#x2014;!,.Ä&#x2026;Ĺ&#x2014;0!Ä&#x161; ,#(&3Ĺ&#x2014; Ethiopian food, but Kaffa Crossing is tops

38th and Ludlow streets, 3801 Chestnut St., 215-222-1234, theblockley.com

A pub and live music venue with room for 800, featuring eats like poutine and a New England clam roll.

The ivy-covered walls of New Deck house a pub where football (er, soccer) fans watch sports on television screens while sipping Guinness and eating bangers and mash.

EXPLORE â&#x20AC;Ś BARS + CLUBS The Blockley

City Tap House

3925 Walnut St., 215-662-0105, citytaphouse.com

Accessible via elevator, this University City bar/ restaurant/outdoor space has a selection of 60 beers on tap and fire pits to warm outdoor guests. Dock Street Brewing Co.

701 S. 50th St., 215-726-2337, dockstreetbeer.com

Beloved for its crispy pizzas and six varieties of 66

CITY GUIDE 2011 - 2012

beer on tap daily, this West Philly hang is a go-to for beer snobs and crust punks alike. Fiume

229 S. 45th St., myspace.com/fiume

Above Ethiopian eatery Abyssinia, Fiumeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a quintessential West Philly bar, known for its city specials and weekly bluegrass. Local 44

4333 Spruce St., 215-222-BEER, local44beerbar.com

The beer selection at this West Philly spot (18 on tap, with two hand pumps) is in a league of its own. 3408 Sansom St., 215-386-4600, newdecktavern.com

RESTAURANTS + MARKETS Abyssinia 229 S. 45th St., 215-387-2424

When we crave Ethiopian and Eritrean food, we head straight for Abyssinia. Try the garlicky doro wat or any of the delicious vegetarian lentil- and bean-based dishes.


Dahlak

Lovers and Madmen

Soleil de Minuit

Out-of-this-world Eritrean fare, plus a backyard bar where all West Philly walks of life meet for beers after hours.

This coffee house â&#x20AC;&#x201D; the nameâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s inspired by a bit of dialogue from A Midsummer Nightâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Dream â&#x20AC;&#x201D; offers espresso and French press coffee from Counter Culture.

West Phillyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Soleil de Minuit is the only established Malian restaurant in Philly; highlights include entrĂŠes like tender lamb chops and blackened whole tilapia.

Desi Chaat House

Milk & Honey Market

Vientiane CafĂŠ

This gourmet market sells local products from artisanal cheeses to â&#x20AC;&#x201D; yes â&#x20AC;&#x201D; honey, plus goodies like croissants and sandwiches.

West Philadelphians flock to this compact BYOB for Laotian/Vietnamese fresh spring rolls with a hint of mint and for Vientianeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s signature dessert: four tiny blue-edged dishes of coconut pudding.

Mizu

White Dog CafĂŠ

4708 Baltimore Ave., 215-726-6464, dahlakrestaurant.com

501 S. 42nd St., 215-386-1999, desichaathouse.com

A pan-South Asian comfort food, chaat can describe an array of savory snackies and condiments sold from street carts across the subcontinent. Distrito

3945 Chestnut St., 215-222-1657, distritorestaurant.com

The hot-pink interior, VW Beetle booth and wall of luchador wrestling masks should tip you off to the fun, frenetic vibe at Jose Garcesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; West Philly small-plater. Fu-Wah Mini Market

810 S. 47th St., 215-729-2993

28 S. 40th St., 215-243-9851

4425 Baltimore Ave., 215-387-6455, milkandhoneymarket.com

111 South 40th St., 215-382-1745, mizusushibar.com

A favorite of college students for its BYO policy and cheap takeout, Mizu has all the classics and its own unique rolls to satisfy all sushi lovers without breaking the bank. Pod

3636 Sansom St., 215-387-1803, podrestaurant.com

5148 Locust St., 215-459-2255

4728 Baltimore Ave., 215-726-1095

3420 Sansom St., 215-386-9224, whitedog.com

This long-running West Philly restaurant is a figurehead in the fair-trade, organic and sustainable business communities in Philadelphia. MUSIC Danger! Danger! Gallery

5013 Baltimore Ave., 903-345-5790, dangerdangergallery.com

West Philadelphians are positively evangelical about Fu-Wahâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s fried tofu hoagie (banh mi), and for good reason: Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s divine.

Thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s cheaper sushi and Thai just around the corner in University City, but where else would you get the outrageous dĂŠcor and the sense of fun that Stephen Starr so vigilantly dispenses?

Kaffa Crossing

Rx

Gojjo

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This unsuspecting Ethiopian bar hosts weekly installments of avant-garde jazz.

4423 Chestnut St., 215-386-0504, kaffacrossing.com

A family-run business, the cafĂŠ offers free WiFi access to breakfast and lunch patrons, plus an array of fair-trade crafts and fair-trade coffee.

4443 Spruce St., 215-222-9590, caferx.com

AFTER 100 YEARS, STILL CONVENIENTLY LOCATED AT THE INTERSECTION OF PHILADELPHIA AND THE WORLD. DISCOVER WHY INTERNATIONAL HOUSE PHILADELPHIA IS THE LEADING VENUE IN THE CITY FOR ADVENTUROUS ARTS AND CULTURAL PROGRAMMING. UĂ&#x160;Films U Cultural Dining UĂ&#x160;Art Exhibits Excursions UĂ&#x160;Language Classes U Speaker Series U Concerts U And other Unique Cultural Events!

Visit ihousephilly.org for memberships, tickets, program schedules, housing rates and more.  / , /" Ă&#x160;"1- Ă&#x160;* *Ă&#x160;UĂ&#x160;Ă&#x17D;Ă&#x2021;ä£Ă&#x160;  -/ 1/Ă&#x160;-/, /Ă&#x160;UĂ&#x160;* *Ă&#x160; www.ihousephilly.orgĂ&#x160;UĂ&#x160;Ă&#x201C;ÂŁx°Ă&#x17D;nĂ&#x2021;°xÂŁĂ&#x201C;x

Asking only for $5-$10 donations at the door, this all-ages West Philly spot brings in obscure acts from across the country. 4540 Baltimore Ave., 215-386-1444, gojjos.com


THE HOODS: WEST PHILADELPHIA/UNIVERSITY CITY/SOUTHWEST PHILLY

Green Line CafĂŠ

World CafĂŠ Live

This is the original in a line of three West Philly hangouts good for enjoying local performers, open mic nights, poetry readings and art shows. Oh yeah, and coffee.

Enjoy local and big-name artists from all genres as well as open mic nights and concerts for kids at this two-floor venue. Be on the lookout for free events.

Mann Center for the Performing Arts

ARTS + CULTURE The A-Space

4239 Baltimore Ave., 215-222-3431, greenlinecafe.com

5201 Parkside Ave., 215-893-1999, manncenter.org

The Philly Pops, the Philadelphia Orchestra and the Chamber Orchestra of Philadelphia are all regulars at this large open-air theater. Catch bigname rock and jazz acts, too. Millcreek Tavern

4200 Chester Ave., 215-222-9194, millcreektavernphilly.com

Emerging local groups perform regularly at this West Philly bar, home to 20-plus draft selections. Pilam

3914 Spruce St., 201-452-0330, yarga.net

The hippest Penn fraternity house of them all doubles as an occasional venue, hosting acts as #!Ĺ&#x2014;-Ĺ&#x2014;..,(Ĺ&#x2014;#-Ĺ&#x2014; )0'(.Ĺ&#x2014;(Ĺ&#x2014;."Ĺ&#x2014; 'Ĺ&#x2014;/'(Ĺ&#x2014; Barbecue each summer. The Rotunda

4014 Walnut St., 215-573-3234, therotunda.org

This transformed West Philly church hosts a steady diet of community events along with films, plays, dance performances and live music. Tower Theater

19 S. 69th St., 610-352-2887, tower-theatre.com

Technically in Upper Darby, the Towerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s accessible via subway and hosts big-name acts in all sorts of genres â&#x20AC;&#x201D; think the Pixies, Primus and Interpol. 68

CITY GUIDE 2011 - 2012

3025 Walnut St., 215-222-1400, worldcafelive.com

4722 Baltimore Ave., 215-727-0882, the-aspace.org

An anarchist community space that hosts NORML meetings, lectures and First Friday events. AIRSPACE

4013 Chestnut St., 215-694-9719, inliquid.com/features/40street

International House

3701 Chestnut St., 215-387-5125, ihousephilly.org

Institute of Contemporary Art

118 S. 36th St., 215-898-7108, icaphila.org

Kelly Writers House

3805 Locust Walk, 215-746-7636, writing.upenn.edu/wh

The University of Pennsylvaniaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s self-run center for writing hosts music performances, seminars and book readings. Leonard Pearlstein Gallery 3215 Market St., 215-895-2548, drexel.edu/westphal/gallery

NextFab Studio

3711 Market St., 215-921-3649, nextfabstudio.com

Annenberg Center for the Performing Arts

Philadelphia Zoo

This 1971 venue is a one-stop shop for theater, dance, African music, Irish performance art and more.

Add it to the list of firsts: The Philadelphia Zoo was the very first of its kind in America, and today hosts more than 1,300 animals.

Community Education Center

Please Touch Museum

3680 Walnut St., 215-898-3900, pennpresents.org

3500 Lancaster Ave., 215-387-1911, cecarts.org

A meetingplace that hosts performances, seminars and workshops. Curio Theatre Co.

815 S. 48th St., 215-525-1350, curiotheatre.org

In its sixth season, Curio strives for imaginative theater performed by up-and-coming actors. Dhyana Yoga

3945 Chestnut St., 215-222-9642, dhyana-yoga.com

Esther M. Klein Art Gallery

3600 Market St., 215-966-6188, kleinartgallery.org

3400 Girard Ave., 215-243-1100, philadelphiazoo.org

4231 Avenue of the Republic, 215-581-3181, pleasetouchmuseum.org

Perfect for the kiddos, Please Touch is a fully hands-on museum experience. Sam Quinn Gallery

4501 Spruce St., 267-408-5769, samquinn.com

Shofuso

4700 States Drive, 215-878-5097, shofuso.com

Located in the west side of Fairmount Park, Shofuso is a traditional 17th-century Japanese tea house that doubles as a performing arts venue.


Slought Foundation

VIX Emporium

4017 Walnut St., 215-701-4627, slought.org

A self-proclaimed â&#x20AC;&#x153;experimentalâ&#x20AC;? institution, the Slought Foundation holds exhibitions and events focused on contemporary art, architecture that explore cultural conflicts and social activism. Studio 34

4522 Baltimore Ave., 215-387-3434, studio34yoga.com

Not just yoga by any means: Studio 34 hosts dance parties, art exhibits and workshops, too. University of Pennsylvania Museum of Archaeology and Anthropology 3260 South St., 215-898-4000, penn.museum

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5009 Baltimore Ave., 215-471-7700, vixemporium.wordpress.com

Jump on the Green Line for a much-needed visit to this handmade-goods boutique that stocks work by local artists and crafters, including plenty by West Philly neighbors. PARKS + REC Bartramâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Garden

54th Street and Lindbergh Boulevard, 215-222-6030, bartramsgarden.org

Neighborhood Bike Works/Bike Church 3916 Locust Walk, 215-386-0316, neighborhoodbikeworks.org

Simeone Foundation Museum 6825 Norwitch Drive, 215-365-7233, simeonefoundation.org

Trophy Bikes

3131 Walnut St., 215-222-2020, trophybikes.com

University City District

215-243-0555, univeristycity.org

Americaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s oldest botanical garden surrounds 18th-century naturalist/explorer John Bartramâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s estate. Clark Park

4300 Chester Ave., 215-552-8186, clarkpark.info

Doctor Cycles

3608 Lancaster Ave., 215-823-6780, doctorcycles.com

A purveyor of records thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s perfect for the jazz junkie.

Fencing Academy of Philadelphia

The Second Mile

Firehouse Bicycles

50th Street and Baltimore Avenue, 215-727-9692, firehousebicycles.com

Fort Mifflin

Urban Outfitters

1 Fort Mifflin Road, 215-685-4167, fortmifflin.us

110 S. 36th St., 215-387-6990, urbanoutfitters.com

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On the other side of the spectrum, the campus Urban location services those who prefer their second-hand looks unscathed by previous owners.

8601 Lindbergh Blvd., 215-365-3118, fws.gov

Morris Arboretum

100 E. Northwestern Ave., 215-247-5777, upenn.edu/arboretum

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214 S. 45th St., 215-662-1663, secondmilecenter.com

3519 Lancaster Ave., 215-382-0293, fap-fencing.com

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208 S. 40th St., 215-386-6110

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THE HOODS

photo by Neal Santos

FAIRMOUNT/ART MUSEUM WHERE EVEN THE PRISON IS A MUSEUM. The streets north of western Center City, bound by Spring Garden to the south, Girard to the north, 19th Street to the east and Fairmount Park to the west, are known to those who live here as Fairmount â&#x20AC;&#x201D; itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s only the real estate agents who call it the Art Museum. Showy landmarks like the Philadelphia Museum of Art and Eastern State Penitentiary draw tourists to the mostly residential â&#x20AC;&#x2122;hood; make like the locals and hang out at an outdoor table at one of the many casual pubs emphasizing world-class beer. WHILE YOUâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;RE HERE â&#x20AC;Ś Ä&#x160;The Belgian CafĂŠâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s outdoor tables are the place for Euro brews and moules frites Ä&#x160;)/,Ĺ&#x2014; "#-.),#Ĺ&#x2014; Eastern State Penitentiary, a crumbling castle looming over Fairmount Avenue Ä&#x160;#*Ĺ&#x2014; Ĺ&#x2014; &--#Ĺ&#x2014; )%.#&Ĺ&#x2014; #(Ĺ&#x2014; ."Ĺ&#x2014; -*%-3Ĺ&#x2014; ,Ĺ&#x2014; ) Ĺ&#x2014; London Grill; ask about the resident ghost Ä&#x160;)Ĺ&#x2014;#%#(!Ĺ&#x2014;)(Ĺ&#x2014;Kelly Drive and practice shouting â&#x20AC;&#x153;on your left!â&#x20AC;? to slowpoke pedestrians Ä&#x160;.Ĺ&#x2014; &)-.Ĺ&#x2014; #(Ĺ&#x2014; ."Ĺ&#x2014; Art Museum on pay-what-youwish day (the first Sunday of every month)

YOU SHOULD KNOW â&#x20AC;Ś Visit the Fairmount Community Development Corp.â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s website (fairmountcdc.org) to get involved. The Fifth District City Councilman is Darrell Clarke (215-686-3442) through 2011. EXPLORE â&#x20AC;Ś BARS + CLUBS The Belgian CafĂŠ

2047 Green St., 215-235-3500, thebelgiancafe.com

1701 Green St., 215-769-5000, saintstephensgreen.com

Phillyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s got plenty of great places to spend your boozinâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; dollars, but St. Stephenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Green should end up on your short list. Urban Saloon

2120 Fairmount Ave., 215-232-5359

This neighborhood watering hole has 12 taps behind the bar and an inventive pub grub menu to boot. RESTAURANTS + MARKETS Fare

2028 Fairmount Ave., 267-639-3063, farerestaurant.com

An ergonomic and eco-friendly dining experience with a menu focusing on organic, local food.

Bishopâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Collar

The smells that radiate from the kitchen of this Moroccan mainstay are those of the medina â&#x20AC;&#x201D; cinnamon, cumin and some unnameable essences that lend mystery to the food at hand.

2349 Fairmount Ave., 215-765-1616, thecollar.us

A lively Fairmount bar named after the expression for a poorly poured pint of Guinness (they pull a mean one here). Bridgidâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s

726 N. 24th St., 215-232-3232, bridgids.com

Sidle up to the bar at the cityâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most idiosyncratic neighborhood tappy for their all-day chili special, paired best with one of Brigidâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s numerous Belgians. 1836 Callowhill St., 215-568-1818, thekiteandkey.com

The 1800 block of Callowhill is fast becoming a CITY GUIDE 2011 - 2012

St. Stephenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Green

There are more than 200 beers by the bottle, and draft choices are available in smaller glasses as well as pints, so you can actually drink a top-notch brew for $3.

Kite and Key

70

go-to strip for reliably good eats â&#x20AC;&#x201D; now you can satisfy a parallel need for craft beer and local sports at the Kite & Key.

Figs

2501 Meredith St., 215-978-8440, figsrestaurant.com

Jackâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Firehouse

2130 Fairmount Ave., 215-232-9000, jacksfirehouse.com

If youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re wrestling hunger pangs, sidle up for Jackâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s lip-smackinâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; ribs with firehouse fries or North Carolina-style crab cakes. London Grill

2301 Fairmount Ave., 215-978-4545, londongrill.com

A friendly neighborhood institution and gathering place with a splendid bar (not to mention an inventive menu).


Mugshots

and-aah-worthy features of science class in colorful exhibits.

the prolific French artist in a garden setting.

Mugshots faithful come for the vegan food options, socially conscious coffee and cozy atmosphere.

Eastern State Penitentiary

127 S. 22nd St., 800-817-7351, ext. 2, vinology.com

2100 Fairmount Ave., 267-514-7145, mugshotscoffeehouse.com

Rybread

2319 Fairmount Ave., 215-769-0603, rybreadcafe.com

A cozy little cafĂŠ specializing in gourmet sandwiches, wraps and hoagies. Trio

2124 Fairmount Ave., 215-236-5111, easternstate.org

The Quaker-style prison that once housed Al Capone now opens its doors to thrill-seeking tourists. Franklin Institute

222 N. 20th St., 215-448-1200, fi.edu

Wine School of Philadelphia

The offered courses and certificate programs are not for the curious dabbler â&#x20AC;&#x201D; theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re aimed at serious connoisseurs and professionals. SHOPPING Aliâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Wagon

2017 Fairmount Ave., 215-787-0611, aliswagon.com

This cozy, comfy BYOB has an expansive PanAsian menu that reflects Eastern traditions.

Named after our favorite inventor, this interactive museum includes an IMAX theater, which hosts a slew of high-flying, big-screen ordeals alongside the latest blockbusters.

In family-friendly Fairmount, Aliâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Wagon offers shoppers quaint homewares, bath and body products, and toys for the tots.

Zorbaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Tavern

Free Library, Central Branch

2202 Fairmount Ave., 215-235-3226

2624 Brown St., 215-232-8746, triobyob.com

2230 Fairmount Ave., 215-978-5990, zorbastavern.com

Delicious dolmades, saganaki, soutzoukakia and all manner of gyro, a half-block from Eastern State Penitentiary. MUSIC North Star Bar

2639 Poplar St., 215-787-0488, northstarbar.com

This Fairmount bar features everything from jazz to punk to 25-cent wings during happy hour in an intimate space. ARTS + CULTURE Academy of Natural Sciences

1900 Ben Franklin Parkway, 215-299-1000, ansp.org

For your inner child (or actual offspring), the Academy of Natural Sciences serves up the ooh-

1901 Vine St., 215-686-5322, freelibrary.org

The Free Libraryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s main branch is the largest in its 54-library system. Along with an impressive selection of books, classes and events, the library hosts world-renowned authors. Philadelphia Museum of Art

2600 Ben Franklin Pkwy.,215-763-8100, philamuseum.org

The first art museum in the country, our local treasure contains enough Renaissance, contemporary and international art to keep locals coming back for more. Rodin Museum

Bookhaven

Bookhaven sidles up under the shadow of the Free Libraryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Central Branch, snatching up used books and providing a cozier environment for lazy Sunday reading. Made You Look!

2601 Pennsylvania Ave., CU 3, 215-235-2386, fairmountupscaleconsignment.com

This casual little consignment shop is always stuffed and re-stuffed with jewelry, clothes and home furnishings. PARKS + REC Fairmount Park

215-988-9334, fairmountpark.org

22nd Street and Ben Franklin Parkway, 215-568-6026, rodinmuseum.org

This open-air gem features tons of sculptures by

American Art &Print V I N TA G E A N D C O N T E M P O R A RY F I N E A R T

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www.american-art-n-print.com | 267-226-5592

Y\ ]OK\MR PY\ _] YX FACEBOOK.COM ZRYXO 215-235-2386 Wed-Sun 12 to 5


THE HOODS

photo by Neal Santos

MANAYUNK/ROXBOROUGH/EAST FALLS TECHNICALLY STILL IN THE CITY.

Mad River Bar & Grille

4100 Main St., 215-482-2666, madrivermanayunk.com

Unlike its Old City counterpart, this location features a great heated outdoor deck overlooking the Schuylkill River for fun all year around.

Set along Phillyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Schuylkill-bordering northwest quadrant â&#x20AC;&#x201D; less than 15 minutes from Center City â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Manayunk, Roxborough and East Falls form a hilly triumvirate of traditionally bluecollar neighborhoods touched by two decades of gentrification. Parking is tight and roads are steep â&#x20AC;&#x201D; not a place to venture unnecessarily in a snowstorm â&#x20AC;&#x201D; but a casual vibe and proximity to several local colleges make this a haven for students and the recently-graduated. The annual Philadelphia International Cycling Championship serves as the official holiday and public party â&#x20AC;&#x201D; grab your cowbell and ring that thing to death.

YOU SHOULD KNOW â&#x20AC;Ś Visit manayunk.com, roxborough.us or eastfallsdevelopment.org for specifics on each of these â&#x20AC;&#x2122;hoods. Fourth District City Council is represented by Curtis Jones Jr. (215-686-3416) through 2011.

WHILE YOUâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;RE HERE â&#x20AC;Ś Ä&#x160;."Ĺ&#x2014; ))&Ĺ&#x2014; ,4-Ĺ&#x2014; )(Ĺ&#x2014; Manayunk Breweryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s expansive, canal-side decks Ä&#x160;&#'Ĺ&#x2014; ."Ĺ&#x2014; Manayunk Wall and be grateful youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re not doing it on your bike Ä&#x160;/,(#-"Ĺ&#x2014; 3)/,Ĺ&#x2014; *Ĺ&#x2014; 1#." Three Potato Fourâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s funky finds from their Saturday barn sales Ä&#x160;,#(!Ĺ&#x2014;Ĺ&#x2014;-*,Ĺ&#x2014;/..Ĺ&#x2014;ÄĄ#(Ĺ&#x2014;-Ĺ&#x2014;3)/Ĺ&#x2014;(Ĺ&#x2014;3)/,-Ĺ&#x2014;)ĂŽ ĢĹ&#x2014; at Bourbon Blue Ä&#x160;),Ĺ&#x2014; Ĺ&#x2014; -#'*&Ĺ&#x2014; ,% -.Ĺ&#x2014; .Ĺ&#x2014; Bobâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Diner, boasting scenic cemetery views

JD McGillicuddyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s

RESTAURANTS + MARKETS Adobe CafĂŠ

McGillicuddyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s size and ambience offer something to make everyone in your party happy. Live music, happy hours, dancing, karaoke and TVs to catch the games make it a great getaway.

With a second location on East Passyunk, Adobeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s got a good thing going â&#x20AC;&#x201D; think inventive dĂŠcor (holler @ the cow skull) and menu items like steak tips with smoked jalapeno mayo.

Kildareâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Irish Pub

Chabaa Thai Bistro

Whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s the craic? This Kildareâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s location serves typical pub food plus various renditions of the Boxty, a stuffed Irish potato pancake.

Manayunkâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Chabaa is neatly decorated with photos from Thailand, but we go for one reason: The hottest Thai dishes in the state.

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CITY GUIDE 2011 - 2012

EXPLORE â&#x20AC;Ś BARS + CLUBS Bourbon Blue

2 Rector St., 215-508-3360, bourbonblue.com

A little bit French Quarter, a dash of city sophistication and a heavy hand with the Hurricane pours characterize Sean Coyleâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Manayunk hangout. 111 Cotton St., 215-930-0209, jdmcgillicuddys.com

4417 Main St., 215-482-7242, kildarespub.com

Manayunk Brewery and Restaurant

4120 Main St., 215-482-8220, manayunkbrewery.com

In addition to a full food menu, Manayunk Brewery features house brews like the Bohemian Blonde and Schuylkill Punch year-round, plus seasonals like Yunkersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Gold and California Dreaminâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;. Yunkers Pub & Lounge

4421 Main St., 215-509-6005, toniconmain.com

The old Tonic is now the place to go where nobody knows your name. With the perfect pub downstairs and rockinâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; dance club upstairs, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s the best of both worlds.

4550 Mitchell St., 215-483-3947, adobecafephilly.com

4371 Main St., Manayunk, 215-483-1979, chabaathai.com


Dairyland Ice Cream and Chocolates

Pierogie Kitchen

Ugly Moose

Sells cakes and chocolate-covered strawberries in addition to affordable scoops of flavors like Cookies ’n’ Cream, Peanut Butter Cup Fudge and Birthday Cake.

Comfort foodies take note: Owner Marie Thorpe utilizes her grandma’s recipes to whip up over 35 varieties of these delicious Eastern European potato pockets.

Order Fried Mooserella, Duck Stickers or the Salmon North by Northwest at this kid-friendly Manayunk eatery.

Derek’s Restaurant

Shan Chuan

4321 Main St., 215-487-0489, whirledpeacefroyo.com

4409 Main St., 215-482-6806, phillyicecream.com

4411 Main St., Manayunk, 215-483-9400, dereksrestaurant.com

After years serving Californified Italian food at Sonoma, Derek Davis closed and reopened this now-eponymous hot spot with a revamped menu and outdoor cafe seating. Jake’s and Cooper’s Wine Bar

4365-67 Main St., Manayunk, 215-483-0444, jakesrestaurant.com

Bruce Cooper’s duo restaurant has an extensive menu of traditional Jake’s favorites and contemporary Cooper’s dishes, all committed to local farmers & sustainable practices. Johnny Mañana’s

4201 Ridge Ave., 215-843-0499, johnnymananas.net

With a specialty drinks list as long as its food menu, the South of the Border-reminiscent foodery thrives on buzzy kitsch. Machismo Burrito Bar

4330 Main St., Manayunk, 215-508-3333, machismoburritobar.com

The concept is simple at Manayunk’s Machismo: It’s a “build your own” burrito bar that’s both sit-down and takeout-friendly.

648 Roxborough Ave., 215-483-5301, pierogiekitchen.com

4211 Ridge Ave., 215-844-7889

In a sea of American pub grub, Shan Chuan’s Chinese menu stands out. Sweet Elizabeth’s Cakes

4409 Main St., 267-331-8949, sweetelizabethscakes.com

Liz and Owen Paradiso bake intricately designed, made-to-order cakes using fresh ingredients from area farms. Thomas’ Restaurant and Bar

4201 Main St., 215-483-9075, thomasrestaurant.com

In 1982, Thomas’ opened on a restaurant- and bar-free Main Street; it’s now surrounded by other options, but Thomas’ boasts nice details like a handmade mahogany bar, and savory treats like pistachio-crusted veal meatballs. Trolley Car Café

3269 S. Ferry Rd., 267-385-6703, trolleycardiner.com/café

Just a short walk away from Kelly Drive, this modern ’50s themed, BYOB café prides itself on being eco-friendly from the décor down to the menu.

443 Shurs Lane, 215-482-2739, theuglymoose.com

Whirled Peace

A make-your-own frozen yogurt spot with other sweet desserts that’s open until 1 a.m. on Friday and Saturday nights to satisfy the drunken munchies. Winnie’s LeBus

4266 Main St., 215-487-2663, lebusmanayunk.com

Winnie’s serves LeBus artisan breads in the morning, house specialties like “Mom’s Meatloaf” in the afternoon and dinner entrees paired with local brews in the evening. MUSIC Dawson Street Pub

100 Dawson St., 215-482-5677, dawsonstreetpub.com

With over 20 years in the business, this Manayunk bar boasts an impressive beer list to complement the live music offered every Thursday, Friday and Saturday. ARTS + CULTURE Laurel Hill Cemetery

3822 Ridge Ave., 215-228-8200, thelaurelhillcemetery.org

Laurel Hill bills itself not as a mere cemetery but an “underground museum,” a “horticultural gem,” an “outdoor sculptural garden.” And it’s all true.

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215-844-7900

www.AldenParkApts.com 5500 Wissahicken Avenue * Philadelphia, Pa. 19144


THE HOODS: MANAYUNK/ROXBOROUGH/EAST FALLS Main Street Music

Stagecrafters Theatre

Mee-yow: Vamp features unique womenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s clothing and accessories that wonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t break the bank.

Friendly independent music store selling new and used vinyl, CDs and DVDs.

Running productions for over 80 seasons, Stagecrafters offers a variety of plays and script reading workshops.

Wag N Style

4444 Main St., 215-487-7732, myspace.com/mainstmusic

8130 Germantown Ave., 215-247-8881, thestagecrafters.org

Manayunk Art Center

419 Green Lane, 215-482-3363, manayunkartcenter.org

Nonprofit center featuring exhibits, classes, workshops and other programs. 3544 Indian Queen Lane, 215-843-1109, oldacademyplayers.org

In continuous performance since 1923, the quaint theater produces classics as well as new work. Schuylkill Center for Environmental Education

Benjamin Lovell

4305 Main St., 215-487-3747, benjaminlovell.com

Super-stylish shoes for men and women. Bryn Mawr Running Co.

8200 Hagys Mill Road, 215-482-7300, schuylkillcenter.org

One of the countryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s first urban environmentaleducation centers, the Schuylkill Center hosts outdoor sculpture exhibits, trail hikes and other programs, plus a pavilion and amphitheater open to the public year-round. Sherman Mills 3502 Scotts Lane, 215-991-7601, shermanmills.com

Residential, commercial and artist studios located in East Falls, which also host exhibits and other programs. 4203 Main St., 215-840-0832, softillusions.net

4405 Main St., 215-487-3333, beansbeauty.com

Offers makeup, skin and hair care, plus a fragrance selection and menâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s section.

Old Academy Players

Soft Illusions Fine Arts Gallery

SHOPPING Beans Beauty Supply

3734 Midvale Ave., 215-844-7100, wagnstyle.com

A â&#x20AC;&#x153;natural, eco-friendly, high-fashionâ&#x20AC;? pet boutique for your favorite four-legged friends. Worn Yesterday

4228 Main St., 215-482-3316, wornyesterday.com

Gently worn clothing for infants through preteens, plus a maternity section featuring highend brands at not-so-high-end prices. PARKS + REC Gorgas Park

Ridge and Hermitage streets

4320 Main St., 215-487-0220, brynmawrrunningco.com

Human Zoom

Everything youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll need to go as fast as your two feet will take you.

Intoxx Fitness

4159 Main St., 215-487-7433, humanzoom.com 123 Leverington Ave., 215-483-4030, intoxxfitness.com

Nicole Miller

4249 Main St., 215-930-0307, wix.com/nmphilly/nicole-miller-philadelphia

Mary K. Doughertyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s flagship boutique that features the work of her fashion designer friend, Nicole Miller. Three Potato Four

376 Shurs Lane, Building A, 267-335-3633, threepotatofourshop.com

Kendrick Recreation Center 5822 Ridge Ave.

Pretzel Park

Silverwood Street and Cotton Street, manayunkcouncil.org/Pretzel/

RowZone

4401 Main St., 215-482-0321, rowzone.com

A carefully curated selection of home goods, gifts and trinkets, with a keen eye for graphic design.

Sweat Fitness

Vamp Boutique

Wissahickon Valley

4231 Main St., 215-487-2340, vampboutique.net

4151 Main St., 215-487-7100, sweatfitness.com Henry Avenue and Lincoln Drive, fow.org

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For more information, please contact the egg donor coordinator, Amy Fisher, RN, MSN, CRNP at 484-337-8958.

(JJGRQRUVDUHVHHQDWWKH%U\Q0DZURIÂżFHORFDWHGPLOHVIURP Center City and easily accessible via SEPTA.


THE HOODS

photos by Neal Santos

Delilahâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s

100 Spring Garden St., 215-625-2800, delilahs.com

NORTHERN LIBERTIES

A gentlemenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s club and steakhouse that hosts bachelor parties aplenty. R.U.B.A. Hall

WELCOME TO THE NOUVEAU NICHE.

414 Green St., 215-627-9831

First pioneered in the â&#x20AC;&#x2122;80s by artists in search of inexpensive studio space, Northern Liberties may have the most diverse housing stock in Philadelphia. Situated north of Old City, NoLibs extends roughly to Girard Avenue to the north, Spring Garden to the south, Sixth Street to the west and the Delaware River completes the perimeter. Warehouses and disused factories are now loft buildings, and new construction ranges from green condos to rowhouses converted into bars and restaurants. Bike around this tightly packed â&#x20AC;&#x2122;hood to avoid Second Street traffic jams and parking vultures.

YOU SHOULD KNOW â&#x20AC;Ś Check out neighborhood message board northernliberties.org for FAQs, local gossip and links to your First District City Councilman, Frank DiCicco (215-686-3458) through 2011.

WHILE YOUâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;RE HERE â&#x20AC;Ś Ä&#x160;,.(Ĺ&#x2014; 3)/Ä&#x201C;,Ĺ&#x2014; ßÝĹ&#x2014; &&Ĺ&#x2014; )0,Ĺ&#x2014; !#(Ĺ&#x2014; 1#."Ĺ&#x2014; Ĺ&#x2014; -1.3Ĺ&#x2014; dance party upstairs at 700 Club Ä&#x160;,,Ĺ&#x2014; /*Ĺ&#x2014; (Ĺ&#x2014; & ,-)Ĺ&#x2014; '),(#(!Ĺ&#x2014; '&Ĺ&#x2014; ,)'Ĺ&#x2014; La Copine Brunch Cart every weekend Ä&#x160;/(Ĺ&#x2014; ,)/(Ĺ&#x2014; 1#."Ĺ&#x2014; ."Ĺ&#x2014; %#-Ĺ&#x2014; (Ĺ&#x2014; )!-Ĺ&#x2014; .Ĺ&#x2014; Liberty Lands Park Ä&#x160;Ĺ&#x2014; "Ĺ&#x2014; "#,Ĺ&#x2014; .)Ĺ&#x2014; 1."Ĺ&#x2014; Ĺ&#x2014; !'Ĺ&#x2014; )(Ĺ&#x2014; ."Ĺ&#x2014; !#(.Ĺ&#x2014; screen at the Piazza at Schmidts Ä&#x160;#(Ĺ&#x2014;)/.Ĺ&#x2014;1".Ĺ&#x2014;")''Ĺ&#x2014;-,**&Ĺ&#x2014;.-.-Ĺ&#x2014;&#%Ĺ&#x2014;.Ĺ&#x2014; CafĂŠ Estelle (hint: magic unicorns)

637 N. Third St., 215-627-6711

EXPLORE â&#x20AC;Ś BARS + CLUBS 700 Club

700 N. Second St., 215-413-3181

Stay downstairs for the bar, or climb the steps to soak in an unusual dancefloor atmosphere complete with DJ booth/bathtub. Abbaye

The vibe here is homey and welcoming; so, too, are its kindly bartenders. Blind Pig

702 N. Second St., 267-639-4565, blindpigphilly.com

This casual, neighborhoody spot is pouring eight beers on tap and cracking upward of 20 brews in cans behind the bar to go along with its pubby menu.

Join the Russian Ukrainian Boating Association (aka R.U.B.A.) for access to cheap beer, free pool and the privilege to stay out until 3 a.m. on a Sunday. Membership is five bucks. Gunners Run

Piazza at Schmidts, Second Street and Germantown Avenue, 215-923-4600, gunnersrun.com.

With 10 beers on tap and vegetarian, gluten-free and vegan menu options, Gunners Run makes for a good place for a drink with friends or a bite to eat. N. 3rd

801 N. Third St., 215-413-3666, norththird.com

Serving up local brews and a killer brunch thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s worth the wait. The Roxxy

927- 939 N. Delaware Ave., 215-768-1662, theroxxyphilly.com

Get down to top-40 hits and hip-hop beats at this NoLibs dance club. Silk City

435 Spring Garden St., 215-592-8838, silkcityphilly.com

Serving updated diner food with a slew of local DJ talent and live hip-hop acts.

CITYPAPER.NET

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THE HOODS: NORTHERN LIBERTIES

Standard Tap

Brown Betty Dessert Boutique

Dmitriâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s

The gold standard of the gastropub, Standard Tapâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s constantly changing chalkboard menus and all-local, all-draft beer selection pack in the local NoLibertines.

This mother-daughter operation churns out killer cupcakes, dreamy pies and a host of other thighthickening treats.

Dmitri Chimes, who owns long-successful restaurants in Queen Village and Fitler Square, is now in NoLibs with Dmitriâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s No. 3.

CafĂŠ Estelle

El Camino Real

Wine O

444 N. Fourth St., 215-925-5080, cafeestelle.com

Cafe Estelle is aww-inspiring: Marshall Green has cute on lock, from the vintage cookbook pages under the table glass to the harvest pie on the dessert menu.

The restaurant celebrates food from both sides of the Tex-Mex border with two separate but equally hunger-inducing menus on offer.

Cantina Dos Segundos

209 Poplar St., gardenvarietyphiladelphia.com

901 N. Second St., 215-238-0630, standardtap.com

447 Poplar St., 215-925-0999, wineophilly.com

More than just a quiet wine bar, Wine O boasts an extensive beer selection and a menu featuring Mediterranean-inspired cooking. RESTAURANTS + MARKETS 1 Shot Coffee

Liberties Walk, 1040 N. Second St., 215-627-1620, myspace.com/1shotcoffee

722 N. Second St., 215-629-0999, brownbettydesserts.com

931 N. Second St., 215-629-0500, www.cantinadossegundos.com

The cozy 25-seat 1 Shot appeals to both artsy types and antsy work-from-homers.

)/,Ĺ&#x2014; ."#,-.Ĺ&#x2014; 1#."Ĺ&#x2014; Ĺ&#x2014; 1.,'&)(Ĺ&#x2014; ',!,#.Ĺ&#x2014; )(Ĺ&#x2014; ."Ĺ&#x2014; rocks and ease the grumbling of your stomach with an order of chimichangas.

A Full Plate Cafe

The Foodery

1090 N. Bodine St., 215-627-4068, afullplate.com

With a menu as eclectic as the restaurantâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s decor, A Full Plate serves up everything from vegetarian fare to health-conscious Southern cooking. Be sure to try the fried chicken drizzled in BBQ sauce served up on Belgian waffles. Bar Ferdinand

1030 N. Second St., 215-923-1313, barferdinand.com

The food here is straight, beautifully crafted tapas â&#x20AC;&#x201D; hot and cold salads, bocadillos and pinchos.

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CITY GUIDE 2011 - 2012

837 N. Second St. 215-238-6077, fooderybeer.com

The roomier northern outpost of Pine Streetâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s iconic beer bottle shop; choose from a jawdropping array of domestic and imported beer, available by the bottle, six pack or mixed six. Darlingâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Diner

Piazza at Schmidts, Second Street and Germantown Avenue, 267-239-5775, darlingsdiner.com

Order breakfast anytime at this old school, 24hour diner.

944 N. Second St., 215-592-4550

1040 N. Second St., 215-925-1110, bbqburritobar.com

Garden Variety

This outdoor event space hosts Phillyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s La Copine brunch cart, the Dapper Dog and more. Honeyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Sit â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;n Eat

800 N. Fourth St., 215-925-1150

This quintessential, always-packed NoLibs brunch spot serves Jewish home cooking with a sweet Southern drawl. Koo Zee Doo

614 N. Second St., 215-923-8080, koozeedoo.com

Traditional Portuguese recipes/ingredients )/(Ĺ&#x2014;.Ĺ&#x2014;."#-Ĺ&#x2014;) #-Ĺ&#x2014;Ä&#x201E;Ĺ&#x2014; P.Y.T.

Piazza at Schmidts, Second Street and Germantown Avenue, 215-964-9009, pytphilly.com

Ä&#x201E;Ä&#x201E;Ä&#x201E;Ĺ&#x2014;#-Ĺ&#x2014;*,.,.Ĺ&#x2014;*,)').,Ĺ&#x2014;)''3Ĺ&#x2014;*Ä&#x201C;-Ĺ&#x2014;&#0&3Ĺ&#x2014; burger and shake lounge, complete with $10 â&#x20AC;&#x153;adultshakesâ&#x20AC;? (milkshakes doused with booze).


Being the best is all we know.

The Gentlemen’s Club & Steakhouse

ROCK ATTITUDE. LOUNGE ATMOSPHERE.

THE PARTY STARTS THIS FALL

100 Spring Garden Street www.rebelphiladelphia.com


THE HOODS: NORTHERN LIBERTIES The Random Tea Room

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215-627-6711

713 N. Fourth St., 267-639-2442, therandomtearoom.com

Tea aficionados and casual consumers of hot drinks alike will delight in Random Tea Roomâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s selection of artisanal teas and house-made herbal infusions. Rustica Pizza

903 N. Second St., 215-627-1393

While you end up paying more than you would at other shops, Rusticaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s superior ingredients form one magnificent chicken cheesesteak. Spring Garden Market

400 Spring Garden St., 215-928-1288

)/Ä&#x201C;&&Ĺ&#x2014;-Ĺ&#x2014;#.Ĺ&#x2014;&&Ĺ&#x2014;#(Ĺ&#x2014;."-Ĺ&#x2014;#-&-Ĺ&#x2014;Ä&#x153;Ĺ&#x2014;')%Ĺ&#x2014;/%Ĺ&#x2014; and abalone, insta noodle bowls, pre-packed dumplings, Mikawaya ice cream, bizarro-world Lotte candies â&#x20AC;Ś we could go on. Tiffin

710 W. Girard Ave., 215-922-1297, tiffinstore.com

This Northern Liberties-based service makes fast, inexpensive and light Indian food. Online or by phone, customers can order box meals of two entrĂŠes, dal, raita and pickles. Trios Pizzeria & Trattoria

342 W. Girard Ave., 215-627-1000

Entering this shop fills you with the smells of a freshly baked Margherita pizza, and thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s only the beginning. MUSIC Electric Factory

421 N. Seventh St., 215-627-1332, livenation.com

Fans donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t seem to mind that the converted electric factory is sweaty and, save for a few seated sections, standing-room-only â&#x20AC;&#x201D; â&#x20AC;&#x2122;cause bigname acts sound just as good without a chair. The Fire

412 W. Girard Ave., 267-671-9298, iourecords.com/thefire

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Up-and-comers from all genres win over Philly fans at this NoLibs dive bar. ARTS + CULTURE Amble Gallery and Books

Piazza at Schmidts, Second Street and Germantown Avenue, 215-764-5402, amblegallery.com

Piazza at Schmidts

Second Street and Germantown Avenue, 215-467-4603, atthepiazza.com

Pure Gold Gallery

Piazza at Schmidts, Second Street and Germantown Avenue, puregoldgallery.wordpress.com

Projects Gallery

629 N. Second St., 267-303-9652, projectsgallery.com

Vincent Michael Gallery

Piazza at Schmidts, Second Street and Germantown Avenue, 215-399-1580, vincentmichael.com

SHOPPING Arcadia Boutique

819 N. Second St., 215-667-8099, arcadiaboutique.com

Organic cotton tees, carefully selected vintage pieces and plenty of socially conscious housewares and accessories mingle among pieces by designers such as Mel en Stel, Rich & Skinny and Ben Sherman at this eco-friendly boutique for guys and dolls. Architectural Antiques Exchange 715 N. Second St., 215-922-3669, architecturalantiques.com

A three-floor wonderland of extremely old-school furniture, iron work, stained glass, doors, full wooden pub bars and more. Art Star

623 N. Second St., 215-238-1557, artstarphilly.com

If you canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t get enough of their jewelry, dresses, ceramics, playthings, menswear, art tees and 3Ĺ&#x2014;&)."#(!Ä&#x2026;Ĺ&#x2014;."#-Ĺ&#x2014;) #-Ĺ&#x2014; Ĺ&#x2014;"0(Ĺ&#x2014;&-)Ĺ&#x2014;")-.-Ĺ&#x2014;Ĺ&#x2014; wicked annual craft bazaar. Chez Bow Wow

1040 N. Second St., 215-923-2992, chezbowwow.com

The only one who deserves to be pampered more than you â&#x20AC;Ś is your dog. Chez Bow Wow specializes in hair cutting, teeth cleaning, nail clipping, gland expression and more. City Planter

814 N. Fourth St., 215-627-6169, cityplanter.com

Heaven for urban gardeners whoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re dreaming up big ideas in small spaces. Colors by Padmini

906 N. Second St., 215-733-0330, padminidesign.com

Travel to the far East without ever leaving Northern Liberties. This boutique is stocked with linens, pillows, bedding and bags inspired by the ownerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s travels to India. Delicious Boutique and Corseterie

1040 N. American St., Suite No. 901, 215-413-0375; 1050 N. Hancock St., Suite 64, 267-318-7402; deliciousboutique.com

If youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re not quite ready to lace it up, this circus-themed boutique (which now boasts two locations) also carries menâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s and womenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s clothing, jewelry and accessories with a vampy wink. MillĂŠsimĂŠ

Piazza at Schmidts, Second Street and Germantown Avenue, 267-455-0374, millesime.us

Featuring trendy furniture, home wares and clothing, MillĂŠsimĂŠ is your one-stop shop for all things chic and stylish. Mode Moderne

159 N. Third St., 215-627-0299, modemoderne.com

This shop focuses on mid-century furniture, but also sells pottery and vintage items. R.E.Load Baggage

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608 N. Second St., 215-625-2987, reloadbags.com

For 10 years now, R.E.Load has been equipping messengers (and those of us who just like their gear) with crazy durable, crazy stylish handmade bags.


PARKS + REC Body Arts Gym

926 N. Second St., 267-773-7871, bodyartsgym.com

Liberty Lands Park

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N. Third and Wildey streets, 215-627-6562, nlna.org

North Bowl

909 N. Second St., 215-238-2695, northbowlphilly.com

North Bowlâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s snacky take on the classic grilled cheese makes it the perfect finger food for a night at the lanes. Orianna Hill Dog Park

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9013 N. Orianna St., oriannahill.org

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SugarHouse Casino

1080 N. Delaware Ave., 267-232-2103, sugarhousecasino.com

  

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THE HOODS

photo by Neal Santos

NORTH PHILLY/OLNEY/OAK LANE THE DIAMONDS AND THE ROUGH. The home of Temple University, a barrio full of Latin-Caribbean culture and kaleidoscopic murals, North Philly lies between Girard Avenue and Roosevelt Boulevard, Front Street and the Schuylkill. Olney and Oak Lane are bounded by Roosevelt Boulevard to the south, Cheltenham Avenue to the north, Tacony Creek to the east and Belfield Avenue to the west. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s also home to LaSalle University. WHILE YOUâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;RE HERE â&#x20AC;Ś Ä&#x160;2'#(Ĺ&#x2014; ."Ĺ&#x2014; 1#&Ĺ&#x2014; ,,3Ĺ&#x2014; ) Ĺ&#x2014; -*#'(-Ĺ&#x2014; .Ĺ&#x2014; ."Ĺ&#x2014; Wagner Free Institute of Science Ä&#x160;(%Ĺ&#x2014;)(Ĺ&#x2014;"#Ĺ&#x2014;1))Ä&#x161;Ă°,Ĺ&#x2014;*#44Ĺ&#x2014;.Ĺ&#x2014;Osteria Ä&#x160;#.Ĺ&#x2014;Kimâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s for authentic Korean BBQ Ä&#x160;)&3Ĺ&#x2014; ,#$)&-Ä&#x152;Ĺ&#x2014; .Ĺ&#x2014; 3)/,Ĺ&#x2014; /(Ä&#x17E;)&)'#(Ĺ&#x2014; !,/Ĺ&#x2014; on at Tierra Colombiana Ä&#x160;",)1Ĺ&#x2014;3)/,-& Ĺ&#x2014;Ĺ&#x2014;*,.3Ĺ&#x2014;.Ĺ&#x2014;."Ĺ&#x2014;Arts Garage YOU SHOULD KNOW â&#x20AC;Ś For political concerns in North Philly, give Fifth District Councilman Darrell Clarke a call (215686-3442). In Olney/Oak Lane, call Marian Tasco in the Ninth District (215-686-3454). Theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re in office through 2011.

EXPLORE â&#x20AC;Ś RESTAURANTS + BARS CafĂŠ Soho

468 W. Cheltenham Ave., 215-224-6800

Thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a crack-like quality to the fried chicken at CafĂŠ Soho, worth the hike to Olney. El Bohio

2746 N. Fifth St., 215-425-5991

A family-owned eatery serving authentic Puerto Rican specialties. Isla Verde

2725 N. American St., 215-426-3600

At Isla Verde, tapas are available all day long. Expect modern pan-Latin cuisine with some Italian flourishes. Osteria

640 N. Broad St., 215-763-0920, osteriaphilly.com

Italian food fans, check out Marc Vetriâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s second eatery, where wood-fired pizzas rule the day. Relish

7152 Ogontz Ave., 215-276-0170, relishphiladelphia.com

Celebrating the comforting cuisine of the South, way, way up North (in West Oak Lane, to be exact). Tierra Colombiana

4535 N. Fifth St., 215-324-6086, tierracolombianaonline.com

This North Philly social and culinary nexus offers Cuban and Colombian cooking.

Under the Oak CafĂŠ

804 Oak Lane, 215- 924-1410, undertheoakcafe.com

Offering cooking classes, chefâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s table dinners, wholesale foods and a cafĂŠ full of gourmet treats. ARTS + CULTURE Arts Garage

1533 Ridge Ave., 215-765-2702, theartsgarage.com

Host a birthday party, attend a fish fry, watch a movie, listen to jazz or get your dance on at this venue that hosts nightly entertainment of all stripes. Cerulean Arts

1355 Ridge Ave., 267-514-8647, ceruleanarts.com

This Philly-based partnership promotes art within the community through a series of exhibitions and instructive courses to unlock your inner Matisse. New Freedom Theatre

1346 N. Broad St., 215-765-2793, freedomtheatre.org

Founded in 1966, Pennsylvaniaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s oldest AfricanAmerican theater has a reputation for powerful productions. Wagner Free Institute of Science

1700 W. Montgomery Ave., 215-763-6529, wagnerfreeinstitute.org

The Wagner keeps things fresh with annual lectures on hot topics and Science on Tap learning/drinking nights.

CITYPAPER.NET

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THE HOODS

photos by Neal Santos

and otherwise Deutsch-inspired beers from local breweries on the 12-tap system.

THE NORTHEAST

Three Monkeys CafĂŠ

9645 James St., 215- 632-3334, 3monkeyscafe.com

Sidle up to the 1890s hand-carved bar, an antique oasis in a Northeast sea of neon.

LET THEM EAT BUTTERCAKE. This giant chunk of Philly bordered by the Delaware River, Adams Avenue, Bucks County and Montgomery County is great not only for its gooey buttercake, stellar diners and go-to hoagie joints, but the pockets of greenery scattered throughout. Deciphering the often-confounding, open-Oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d accents of the natives starts at the Mayfair Diner â&#x20AC;&#x201D; use your server as a personal Rosetta Stone and go forth from there. WHILE YOUâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;RE HERE â&#x20AC;Ś Ä&#x160;.,.#(!Ĺ&#x2014; .Ĺ&#x2014; Haegeleâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s and ending at Mayfair Bakery, do a buttercake crawl Ä&#x160;'#,Ĺ&#x2014; ."Ĺ&#x2014; "('Ĺ&#x2014; -.#&&-Ĺ&#x2014; .Ĺ&#x2014; Philadelphia Distilling Co. Ä&#x160;)%Ĺ&#x2014;/*Ĺ&#x2014;-)'Ĺ&#x2014;!,(,3Ĺ&#x2014;.Ĺ&#x2014;Pennypack Park Ä&#x160;)) Ĺ&#x2014;/*Ĺ&#x2014;.)Ĺ&#x2014;."Ĺ&#x2014;Insectarium and learn a thing or two about our six-legged bug friends Ä&#x160;/,(Ĺ&#x2014; 3)/,Ĺ&#x2014; &/%Ĺ&#x2014; ,)/(Ĺ&#x2014; 1#."Ĺ&#x2014; ,#3Ĺ&#x2014; ."Ĺ&#x2014; Firkinteenth at Grey Lodge Pub, held every Friday the 13th

82

CITY GUIDE 2011 - 2012

YOU SHOULD KNOW â&#x20AC;Ś Stay up to date on your Northeast news at neastphilly.com. If you choose to be a Neastie, youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll be repped by current City Council members Joan Krajewski, Sixth District (215-686-3444); Maria QuiĂąones-Sanchez, Seventh (215-6863448); and Brian Oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Neill, 10th (215-686-3422).

RESTAURANTS + MARKETS Albertâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s CafĂŠ

EXPLORE â&#x20AC;Ś BARS + CLUBS Grey Lodge Pub

Boboâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s

6235 Frankford Ave., 215-856-3591, greylodge.com

If you go to the Grey Lodge on the third Friday of any month, youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll see a man hammering a tap into the bottom of a tiny, old-world keg. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s the lodgemaster, and heâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s not making a mistake â&#x20AC;&#x201D; heâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s busting open a firkin of cask-conditioned beer. Hop Angel Brauhaus

7980 Oxford Ave., 215-825-5357, hopangelbrauhaus.blogspot.com

This is a German drinkery, yes, but itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s also a Philadelphia bar, so expect to see Oktoberfest

3180 Grant Ave., 215-673-7200, albertscafe.com

Sticking to traditional Italian and American fare, Albertâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s serves classics like chicken marsala and hot roast beef, plus standard pub grub like mozz sticks and buffalo wings. 6424 Castor Ave., 215-743-9900

Women who refer to themselves as â&#x20AC;&#x153;Auntiesâ&#x20AC;? rule the grill at this authentic Korean barbecue joint, serving up a variety of stir-fries, hot pots and kimchi thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll have your tongue burning for days. Chickieâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s and Peteâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s

4010 Robbins Ave., 215-338-3060, chickiesandpetes.com

The original location of Chickieâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s and Peteâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s opened in 1977 and features a bi-level space with three bars (ask for their Crabby Mary), plus a menu stuffed to the gills with gut-busters like Crab Fries, Chicken Cutlet Parm and Mussels Marinara.


Ryerss Museum and Library

7370 Central Ave., 215-685-0544, ryerssmuseum.org

Open since 1910 and run by the Fairmount Park Commission, the Ryerss Museum is on the .#)(&Ĺ&#x2014;!#-.,Ĺ&#x2014;) Ĺ&#x2014;#-.),#Ĺ&#x2014;&-Ä&#x201E; SHOPPING Roosevelt Mall

2329 Cottman Ave., 215-331-2000

Franklin Mills Mall

1455 Franklin Mills Circle, 215-632-1500, franklinmills.com

Patâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Music Center

7302 Frankford Ave., 215-708-0444, patsmusiccenter.com

Sells guitars drum kits, DJ equipment, amps, sheet music and more. PARKS + REC Fox Chase Farm

8500 Pine Road, 215-728-7900, foxchasefarm.org

Pennypack Park

8015 Lawndale Ave., 215-574-2100, pennypackpark.com

Wissinoming Park

Cheltenham Road and Frankford Avenue, wissinomingpark.org

Chinkâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Steaks

Sweet Lucyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s

Open since 1949, Chinkâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s serves up old-school cheesesteaks to locals and tourists willing to make the trek.

At Northeast Phillyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Sweet Lucyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Smokehouse, piggies are roasted in an on-site hickory wood smoker.

Dattiloâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Delicatessen

White Elephant

6030 Torresdale Ave., 215-535-9405, chinksteaks.com

8000 Horrocks St., 215-725-2020, dattilosdeli.com

Dattiloâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s has long been the go-to hoagie joint for the Northeast lunch rush, but this Italian deli has even more if youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve got the time. Haegeleâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Bakery

4164 Barnett St., 215-624-0117

7500 State Road, 215-331-3112, sweetlucys.com

759 Huntingdon Pike, 215-663-1495, whiteelephantrestaurant.com

White Elephant offers a three-course Thai lunch menu that beats the posh pants off your average money pit. Wit or Witout

Despite the abundance of buttercaking joints in Mayfair, you should call ahead to guarantee a slice from this German bakery tucked into a strip of rowhouses. The crunchier crust makes for much cleaner fingers, and on Fridays and Saturdays, they make a special round variety topped with peaches, blueberries or strawberries.

9970 Roosevelt Blvd., 215-437-1681, witorwitout.com

Makiman Sushi

This unassuming building makes the bold claim: â&#x20AC;&#x153;Where the Civil War comes alive.â&#x20AC;?

The elusive Makiman rocks wicked sushi rolls in the shadows of CVS and Dunkinâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Donuts.

Insectarium

Mayfair Bakery

Billed as Philadelphiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s only â&#x20AC;&#x153;all-bug museum,â&#x20AC;? the Insectarium hosts programs for kids and adults, all in the name of creepy-crawly education.

7324 Oxford Ave., 215-722-8800

6447 Frankford Ave., 215-624-8886, mayfairbakery.com

Buttercake purists will approve of Mayfair Bakeryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s classic, no-frills version â&#x20AC;&#x201D; theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve been putting junk in the Northeastâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s trunk since 1965. Mayfair Diner

7373 Frankford Ave., 215-624-4455, mayfairdiner.com

Open every day of the year except Christmas, the Mayfair Diner is a mainstay for Nâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Easties â&#x20AC;&#x201D; maybe it has something to do with the fact that itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a BYOB.

John Tumolo, whose clan founded Ritaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Italian Ice, has entered the cheesesteak fray with this Wit or Witout location, the second in Northeast Philly. ARTS + CULTURE Grand Army of the Republic Museum

4278 Griscom St., 215-289-6484, garmuslib.org

8046 Frankford Ave., 215-335-9500, myinsectarium.com

Philadelphia Distilling

12285 McNulty Road, 215-671-0346, philadelphiadistilling.com

Up past the Northeast Airport near the edge of town is the home of Phillyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s burgeoning smallbatch spirits empire. Philadelphia School of Modern Kenjutsu 7010 Rising Sun Ave., 267-258-1962, modernkenjutsu.com


THE HOODS

photos by Neal Santos

PORT FISHINGTON GROUP HUG IN THE GREAT PORTMANTEAU. The old â&#x20AC;&#x2122;hoods along the Delaware River (and roughly bordered by the Market-Frankford line to the northwest) are proud enough of their individual heritages to make the chimera beast Port Fishington a suspicious one. Nevertheless, the river wards of Port Richmond, Fishtown and Kensington do have much in common: familyfriendly, affordable housing, old-school butchers, bakers and sausage-makers and a working-class tradition of Eagles on Sunday. Arrivistes gather at community hub Johnny Brendaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s for beers and comforting pub grub; old-heads might head off to Jovanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s for a bowl of goulash adequate to feed a family of four. Choose your own adventure. WHILE YOUâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;RE HERE â&#x20AC;Ś Ä&#x160;**,#.Ĺ&#x2014;"/'(Ä&#x161;*)1,Ĺ&#x2014;-/&*./,Ĺ&#x2014;ÄĄ),Ĺ&#x2014;'%Ĺ&#x2014; one yourself ) at the annual Kensington Kinetic Sculpture Derby Ä&#x160;0),Ĺ&#x2014;-+/,Ä&#x2026;Ĺ&#x2014;-/Ä&#x161;)(Ä&#x161;.)*Ĺ&#x2014;*#-Ĺ&#x2014;.Ĺ&#x2014;Santucciâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s on O Street, just north of Kenzo in Juniata Ä&#x160;Byrneâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Tavern is the cityâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s wing king. The tingly flappers are even half-price on Mondays Ä&#x160;))*Ĺ&#x2014;/*Ĺ&#x2014;/.# /&Ĺ&#x2014; ))Ĺ&#x2014;.Ĺ&#x2014;Greensgrow Farmâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Saturday market Ä&#x160;Tour Philadelphia Brewing Co. and try to choose a favorite of their local lineup 84

CITY GUIDE 2011 - 2012

YOU SHOULD KNOW â&#x20AC;Ś TheNew Kensington Community Development Corp. (nkcdc.org) stays on top of zoning, housing and community arts. Current Councilpeople are Frank DiCicco, First District (215-686-3458); Joan Krajewsky, Sixth (215-686-3444); and Darrell Clarke, Fifth (215-686-3442). EXPLORE â&#x20AC;Ś BARS + CLUBS Atlantis: The Lost Bar 2442 Frankford Ave.

The prices at Atlantis make the bar attractive to Fishtownâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s cash-poor but taste-rich artistic types. And, with deals like the $3 citywide special (a can of PBR and a shot of Jim Beam), the clientele is hella loyal. The El Bar

1356 N. Front St., 215-634-6430, facebook.com/theelbar

This longtime member of Fishtownâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s music scene is located directly below a section of the MarketFrankford line and hosts performances by local rock acts. Frankford Hall

1210 Frankford Ave., 215-634-3338, frankfordhall.com

This Stephen Starr newbie beer hall also provides great beer-drinker fare, from warm Bavarian

pretzels and spaetzle to an assortment of German sausages. Kraftwork

541 E. Girard Ave., 215-739-1700, kraftworkbar.com

Fishtownâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Kraftwork is a serious beer bar offering a lineup of 24 all-draft craft beers, plus a small wine list and a few cocktails. A taut accompanying menu is laid out like project blueprints, in keeping with the working-man theme. Memphis Taproom

2331 E. Cumberland St., 215-425-4460, memphistaproom.com

The mood at this Fishtown gastropub is gleeful â&#x20AC;&#x201D; probably because everyone working here knows they have a winner. Expect plentiful craft brews and crazy-good bar food (read: fried pickles). Post Richmond Pour House

2253 East Clearfield St., portrichmondpourhouse.blogspot.com

This casual, affordable neighborhood pub boasts an exclusively American selection of craft beers. RESTAURANTS + MARKETS Ekta Indian Cuisine 250 E. Girard Ave., 215-426-2277, ektaindianrestaurant.com

The Indian fare turned out by Girard Avenueâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Ekta is richer than Vince Fumo before federal indictment. And even if the storefront isnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t much to look at, they deliver far and wide.


Fathom Seafood House

Tacconelli’s Pizzeria

Another oceanic treasure from Mike Stollenwerk, chef/owner of beloved Philly seafood spots Fish and Little Fish.

Tacconelli’s pizzas are in such high demand that they advise reserving dough at least a day in advance.

Greensgrow Farm

Tiffin

A locavore’s dream come true, this Fishtown mainstay sells all sorts of plantables in the summer and Christmas trees in the winter; Greensgrow is also a one-stop farmers market shop in peak season, and offers CSA shares yearround.

Munish Narula’s Indian/Pakistani BYO remains wildly popular. Stop by Tiffin Etc. next door for curry-licious takeout and street food.

200 E. Girard Ave., 267-761-9343, fathomphilly.com.

2501 E. Cumberland St., 215-427-2702, greensgrow.org

Ida Mae’s Bruncherie

2302 E. Norris St., 215-426-4209, idamaesbruncherie.com

Between the menu and the specials board, you can find your standard syrupy fare with an emphasis on fresh local produce. Jovan’s Place

2327 E. York St., 215-634-3330, jovansplace.com

Much like the hospitality, the food at this Kensington spot is honest and transparent — generous, rustic plates you’ll be reminiscing about long after you’ve enjoyed them. Lola Bean

1325 Frankford Ave., 215-634-LOLA, facebook.com/thelolabean

This community-based coffee shop is everything you could want in café: great interior space, funky artwork and all your fave café concoctions. Marian’s Bakery

2615 E. Allegheny Ave., 215-634-4579

Since 1959, Port Richmond’s Polish population has been lining up outside Marian’s for a hit of the sweet stuff: cheese babka and makowiec, a poppyseed swirl cake rolled up with or without walnuts. Wit! Modo Mio

161 W. Girard Ave., 215-203-8707, modomiorestaurant.com

This 40-seater is more than just good eats — it’s also a good time. Diners are sure to take to the menu’s true-to-it approach to Italian cuisine. Rocket Cat Café

2001 Frankford Ave., 215-739-4526, myspace.com/therocketcatcafe

If you chugged too much Surge when you were 11 and are now immune to caffeine, Rocket Cat’s Thai iced coffee is for you. Santucci’s Original Square Pizza 4019 O St., 215-533-3256

Locals don’t mind making the trek up to this iconic spot just north of Kensington for sauce-ontop, cheese-on-the-bottom pies. Sketch

413 E. Girard Ave., 215-634-3466

A one-stop shop for the quintessential American classic. Figure-watchers, grab a turkey or veggie burger.

2604 E. Somerset St., 215-425-4983

712 W. Girard Ave., 215-925-0770, tiffin.com

Whipped Bakeshop

636 Belgrade St., 215-598-5449, whippedbakeshop.com

Master bakestress Zoë Lukas’ storefront features a rotating selection of cupcakes and “cake cups,” which are exactly what they sound like. MUSIC The Barbary

951 Frankford Ave., 215-643-7400, myspace.com/thenewbarbary

At this Fishtown bar venue, R5 Productions hosts all-ages acts and DJs rock the crowd with a silver curtain behind and mirror ball above. The Fire

412 W. Girard Ave., 267-671-9298, iourecords.com/thefire

This Firehouse neighbor has housed some of the hippest acts on its intimate stage, and I.O.U. Records continues to book some of Philly’s hottest rock and indie talents. Johnny Brenda’s

1201 N. Frankford Ave., 215-739-9684, johhnybrendas.com

Well-respected national and local acts play the Fishtown landmark that once was a 19th-century theater. Kung Fu Necktie

1250 N. Front St., 215-291-4919, kungfunecktie.com

The relative newbie on the Fishtown music scene features rock and indie acts, and sets itself apart by squeezing a gallery upstairs. The Manhattan Room

15 W. Girard Ave., 215-739-5577, mroomphilly.com

This cozy Fishtown space hosts shows by local booking company Village Green Productions. ARTS + CULTURE 2424 Studios

2424 E. York St., 215-423-1800, 2424studios.com

Crane Arts

1400 N. American St., cranearts.com

This huge historic building houses four floors of artist studios and is home to InLiquid, Nexus, Claymobile and Gallery 201. Its accompanying Ice Box project space is rented out annually for Fringe and Live Arts festival performances and craft shows like InLiquid’s Art for the Cash Poor. Extra Extra

1524 Frankford Ave., 301-412-7547, eexxttrraa.com

This Kensington arts space supports underrepresented artists in both visual and performing arts fields, focusing on “new interpretations of sculpture, installation and performance, in whatever forms they may take.”


THE HOODS: PORT FISHINGTON

FLUXspace

3000 N. Hope St., thefluxspace.org

Hosting exhibits, experimental performing art and multidisclipinary events, this North Kenzo collective pushes the envelope in terms of concept and execution. Highwire Gallery

2040 Frankford Ave., 215-426-2685, kenbmiller.com/highwire

Little Berlin

2430 Coral St., littleberlin.org

Mascher Space Co-op

155 Cecil B. Moore Ave., 530-906-5073, mascherdance.com

More than 40 artists-in-residence have set up shop in this Kensington dance co-op since it opened in 2006. Philadelphia Photo Arts Center

1400 N. American St., 215-232-5678, philaphotoarts.org

Project Basho

1305 Germantown Ave., 215-238-0928, projectbasho.org

burlesque workshops, dance and yoga as well as private events. SHOPPING Beekman’s C.O.P.A. Soaps

438 E. Girard Ave., 800-315-5690,

These natural handmade soaps are loved by many and will blow your pants off (if they aren’t off already). Circle Thrift

2233 Frankford Ave., 215-423-5060

The Fishtown outpost of this thrift-shop network is stocked with already-loved furniture, books, records and vintage clothing. DiPinto Guitars

407 E. Girard Ave., 215-427-7805, dipintoguitars.com

These custom-made babies can be seen sported by the likes of Jack White and Conan O’Brien, just to name a few. Port Richmond Books

3037 Richmond St., 215-425-3385, portrichmondbooks.com

Proximity Gallery

Epic in scale and variety, Port Richmond Books is worth the trek.

Pterodactyl

ReStore

2434 E. Dauphin St., 267-825-2949, proximityart.com 3237 Amber St., 215-501-7158, pterodactylphiladelphia.org

In addition to hosting gallery events, Pterodactyl is Kensington’s hot spot for community art classes — from animal sculpture to food preservation. Walking Fish Theatre

2509 Frankford Ave., 215-427-WALK, bsomeday.com

This Fishtown space created by B. Someday Productions hosts standup comedy, theater,

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CITY GUIDE 2011 - 2012

3016 E. Thompson St., 215-634-3474, re-store-online.com

An architectural salvage retail shop that carries everything from doors and window frames to cast-iron floor vents and, yes, even kitchen sinks. Reverie

205 W. Girard Ave., reverievintage.com

This Girard vintage stop skips the novelty tees for a more sophisticated, great-aunt brand of oldschool, making for plenty of sweet pumps, dainty bags and mismatched china.

Thrift Fair Stores Inc.

2403 Aramingo Ave., 215-426-5204

This massive thrift store is a busy place, but the size speaks for itself. They have a little of everything here — you just need to be the first person to find something great. PARKS + REC Bicycle Stable

1420 Frankford Ave., 215-634-0633, bicyclestable.com

Bilenky Cycle Works

5319 N. Second St., 215-329-4744, bilenky.com

Fishtown Recreation Center

1202 E. Montgomery Ave., 215-685-9885, fishtown.us

Jay’s Pedal Power Bikes

512 E. Girard Ave., 215-425-5111, jayspedalpower.com

Penn Treaty Park

North Delaware Avenue and Marlborough Street, penntreatypark.org

Philadelphia Fight Factory

2220 E. Susquehanna Ave., 215-427-1144, philafightfactory.com

Volpe Cycles

2559 E Dauphin St., 215-291-0363, thrillist.com



Cityguide, 2011 - 2012