Beauford 2012 Winter Magazine

Page 1


WINTER 2012 Issue 88 1

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Committee Members POSITION





Bill Buckley 18 Kelsey Lane Balsall Common, Coventry CV7 7GL



Mike Peachey

La Haute Rebiere, Payzac, 24270, France

Secretary & Membership Secretary

Liz Ovenden

17 Brooklime Drive, Boughton Vale, Rugby, Warwickshire CV23 0SF


Keith Oak Tree House, Green Lane, Woolfenden Pamber Green, Hampshire RG26 6AD


Chris Rudge

11 Honeybourne Road, Alveley, 01746-781529 Nr. Bridgenorth, Shropshire WV15 6PR


Michael Crozier

63 Laurel Grove, Tunstall, 0191-522-8410 Sunderland SR2 9EE michael@jonhmichaelcrozier.fsnet.


Paul Hicks

Rosehill, Kellow, Looe, Cornwall 01503 262069 PL13 1LE


Tony Ovenden

17 Brooklime Drive, Boughton Vale, Rugby, Warwickshire CV23 0SF

Beauford Cars Ltd.

David Young

Greenside Works, Thomas Street, 01782-520086 Fax Biddulph, Stoke on Trent ST8 6EE 01782-523724




Please Note: The inclusion of material in, or distributed with, this magazine does not imply the endorsement or recommendation of that material. Members are advised to evaluate for themselves the suitability of material for their own purposes. Please mention the Beauford Club Magazine when replying to adverts. 3


From the Chairman May I wish you all a very happy new year and hopefully we will see many of you at the club events during the year. I would first like to welcome Paul Hicks as our new Editor and I hope you will all give him your full support as you have with Dennis in the past and inundate him with articles for the magazine. As we begin a new year I am reminded of years gone by , the club has been in existence now for over 22years, and we have members who have been with us from the very beginning , some of the committee have been members for nearly 20years.(including myself) In the early days most of the Beaufords had been built by the owners and at the moment there are a few members who have built two which shows real dedication. The club over the years has grown in size, it is financially well off and its facilities have increased to a point were there is nothing that we really need, what we could do with is more member support at club events, so having said that I hope to see you all at the AGM. BILL BUCKLEY FORTHCOMING EVENTS Kit Car Show, Stoneleigh

Sunday and Monday 6th and 7th May

Beauford Club AGM

3.00 pm Sunday 6th May at Stoneleigh

Kit Car Show, Detling

Saturday and Sunday 7th and 8th April (Easter)

Kit Car Show, Newark

Saturday and Sunday 16th and 17th June

Kit Car Show, Exeter

Saturday and Sunday 20th and 21st October

If anyone knows of any other shows which members may be interested, then please let Liz know and she will put the details on the web site as well as including them in this list



From the Editor What have I done? We need an editor said Liz. If we don’t get one we may have to stop the magazine! Well I like many of our readers must have thought to themselves, oh no, I look forward to reading those Beauford stories 4 times a year. My Birst thoughts were to look for an excuse not to do it -­‐ I wouldn’t possibly have the time, or, I have no experience, or, how could I take over from an expert such as Dennis. In reality, I have just Binished my second Beauford so all excuses are null and void. In a moment of weakness I emailed Liz and said ‘please let me do the job’. After, what seemed an like eternity Liz considered my application along with all others and, after about about 3 minutes, she offered me the job. So readers, I am your new editor, chosen from a cast of thousands. On behalf of all our readers I would like to offer our thanks to Dennis for such a sterling job over the past 10 years. Well done and our thanks for a superb job. Of course, we are all looking forward to h e a r i n g f r o m y o u a s a r e g u l a r contributor. Firstly, I must say that I will greatly appreciate any letters, comments and interesting articles from you, the readers and members. I guess that I should start by telling you something about myself. As I said, I have just Binished my second Beauford and I

now run both cars ably supported by my very understanding and patient wife Pat. I spent 35 years in the Royal Air Force as an Engineer and retired to Cornwall some 6 years ago. I have always been a ‘petrol head’ and been fascinated by kit cars and attended many Kit Car shows. The kit car that always stood out from the crowd was the Beauford. Beautiful lines which told a story and created an atmosphere by just being there. So when I retired to Cornwall, I placed my order with David for the Birst car. Several weeks later, a delivery truck turned up and my garage became full of ‘stuff’. Space and a tidy garage was to disappear for several years. Free time became a thing of the past and gardening was something that others did and Pat suggested that I should take more interest in. Building the Beauford was a wonderful hobby. As the car took shape, I used to roll it out of the garage so that I could work on it outside in the sunshine. (well



this is Cornwall). I enjoyed the comments from passing visitors but the most interesting question was always ‘can we hire it for a wedding’? Nearly three years after delivery, my Birst ‘wedding’ car was ready. Pat and I started a little wedding car company that we c a l l e d R o a r i n g 3 0 s A u t o m o b i l e s .

Well that’s my kit car experience so far and I remain a very keen kit car enthusiast.

We called our car Alfonso (full name of Al Capone) and we had already named the

So folks, what shall I include in our magazine? Might I ask you, our members, to provide some ‘one pagers’ with pictures about your cars and how you use them -­‐ particularly our overseas members. Tony has kindly offered to ‘get the ball rolling’ so please read what he has written and let me know what you

second – Eliot (Eliot Ness from the Untouchables).

think. Tell our members about your pride and joy.

Elliot only took two years to build. It must be that I was an expert by the time of the second. Or at least you would have thought so but I seem to have made very similar mistakes the second time round. It was just that I could sort them out more quickly.

I have also had some interesting emails so I thought that we should have a letters page. So please help by Blooding my email with interesting articles and letters. Now its your turn so over to you. WANTED ... Pictures of Beaufords in spring time for the cover of the next edition 6

Letters to the Editor Happy new year to you all. I just thought I would put something out there about our Beauford Convertible that we bought and renovated last year and is now our pride and joy and is going like proverbial hotcakes. We had a 3 viewings yesterday for our two Bentleys (Arnage & Continental Flying Spur) and all three were drawn to our Beauford taking two bookings with the third looking very positive as they just wanted to run it past their parents first.

Dear Editor; Last summer, we were holidaying in Cornwall near St Ives. On the second Saturday of our holiday we were out for a drive and going towards Hayle. Coming towards us was a Beauford but not just any Beauford. This was a bright red pickup truck. It was not in prime condition and looked as though it was in regular use - perhaps on a farm. I hear from Liz that you live in Cornwall. Have you ever seen this car? I can’t help but wonder, if any of our members have (or have seen) an unusual version of our Beauford. Also, who has the oldest Beauford? Please send in you pictures for us all to see. Best of luck with the magazine Royston

I'm S&ll wai&ng! £100k worth of vehicles there and all three want a £15k 1979 Ford Cortina with a Beauford Kit!

I did what you told me .. I sent the email to 10 people like you said. I’m still waiting for that miracle to happen.

Anyway we are now looking to add another to our fleet and have thought about buying another second hand Beauford and again renovating it but since we now have a full time mechanic Jim a 58 year old genius with cars I have decided that I would like to utilise his skills to build one from scratch. Our current Beauford as you can see (image attached) is a two door and we would like to build a 4 door long bodied open tourer. Does anyone have any advice on which donor vehicle to use or any stories of your own experiences of doing this yourself? I look forward to hearing from you all. Best wishes to all for 2012 and beyond.

Graham Ogg, West of Scotland Chauffeur Drive Limited

So to all my friends who in the last year sent me best ‘wishes’, chain letters, ‘angel’ letters or other promises of good luck if I forwarded something. None of that worked! From now on, could you please just send money, beer or petrol vouchers. 7


A Happy New Year to you all. Most of you may well be aware by now that we have a new Editor on board and I am sure you will all wish Paul Hicks the very best of luck with this new “job”. I tried to send out an email to all members to notify them that Paul had taken over and to ask for contributions to the magazine – and many thanks to those of you who have responded. It has amazed me how many of these emails bounced back to me as not known or account suspended or various other reasons. In one of two cases it was because I had transposed a couple of letters or had put a comma instead of a full stop, but I think the majority got through. For the past few years, and it must be three or four now, all my articles have involved writing about the progress of our Beauford build, so I am now at a bit of a loss as the car is now (I think) finished and is looking all bright and shiny in its own little tent garage. Following our trip to Exeter after which we had to source a new gearbox the car went back to the sprayers to have a few little scratches touched up and then one of these wax type finishes put on it to make it easier to clean. In theory just wash, rinse, dry and that’s it and as I have the same stuff on my Mazda this means one bucket will do both! Having said that, the few little scratches seemed to take a long time to cover as the car was in the sprayers for over a month. Every time we drove past it was parked out the front and the thought occurred to me that they were using it as an advert to get more work. Funny enough the same thing happened when it went down to our local mechanic (a small local garage) – the car spent weeks down there having the gearbox changed and once again the car spent ages parked out front! At least we are on very good terms with the mechanic and on several occasions he has lent Tony a tool which he needed for one off jobs.

Now that the Beauford is finished I was a bit worried about what Tony would do with himself as I am not used to him being under my feet. No need to worry though, as the first project he started was an N Gauge model railway. This has come about because of my dolls houses. Having started with 1/12th scale I have had to down size, firstly to 1/48th and now have got a couple of 1/144th which is the same scale as N Gauge for railways. Tony thought it would be a good idea if I displayed these small houses with a model railway so a suitable 4’ x 2’ table has been built, track purchased and a lot of “electrifying” has been taking place. However, this has been put on hold for a while whilst he builds some cupboard/ shelving units (doing this as I type) for the “office”, which currently has a couple of cheap units which have sagged. Mind you not a lot of jobs have been done in the house over the last couple of years so its good to catch up with DIY. I need to get this article finished whilst I still have a computer to sit at as I think it may disappear for a few days whilst the office is decorated and the units fitted. Enough of my ramblings must get on with the club:

SUBSCRIPTIONS Once again Subscriptions are due on 1ST MARCH and enclosed with this magazine is the renewal form. If you have already renewed or are a new member then please ignore the form – it has been sent to everyone. The renewal form can also be downloaded from the web site. If you send your forms back before 1st March, please be patient with me as I have to prepare all the new cards and this is time consuming but the membership cards will be sent out as soon as possible. On the renewal form there is no need to fill out your address if it is the same as last year but because of the amount of rejected 8

emails I recently received back please complete the email address section. I know email addresses are all sent out in lower case but could I ask you all to write your addresses in CAPITAL LETTERS which will ensure that I write them down correctly. This really would be a great help to me.

be a member of the Club, just be an enthusiast.

Wedding Page listing: Please also remember any member who has a listing on the wedding page will be charged £10 for their inclusion so if you are wishing to continue with this service or would like to be included on it then I require a cheque for £20 (£10 subs plus £10 for the listing) please. Please remember that anyone who does not renew by the end of March risks having their listing removed.


If anyone would prefer to pay their subscription directly into the Club’s bank account then please send me an email and I will let you have the bank details. I must stress that if you do this then in the details you must put your name and membership number so that I know who has paid. An email to say that you have done this would also be of assistance as it can be several weeks between my on line visits to the club’s bank account. For overseas and European members who have difficulty in sending sterling I would remind you that we now have the internet Paypal facility whereby you can pay your subscriptions over the internet. Anyone who wants to do this please send me an email first so that I know to expect them. Payments can be made via Paypal to . As usual, I will after a while send out reminder letters (or emails) to those who have not renewed. If for one reason or another you are deciding to let your membership lapse then I would be grateful if you could let me know. Remember, you don’t actually have to own a Beauford to

BEAUFORD CARS As far as I know Beauford Cars are still ticking over and would welcome any business.

Roger Cooling of Grosvenor Events has taken over this show from John Cooke and I have just had all the details come through for it. The show seems to have reverted back to Easter week-end and the weather can be very changeable at this time of year which means it could be pleasant but could be cold and wet but will definitely be windy. I am told that they are hoping to make this show into a mini Stoneleigh. Currently, I have booked an outdoor pitch for the club but we will not be bringing the facilities to this show as it is too far for Tony and I to take the trailer. . In previous years we have been offered an indoor stand but not yet. We will definitely be at the show some time over the week-end but at this stage I am not sure when. It may be however, that there is availability in one of the halls for us, in which case we will be in there. I think it is very much trial and error for the organisers at this stage NATIONAL KIT CAR SHOW, STONELEIGH 6th and 7th May (Bank Holiday)

The early May Bank Holiday week-end is fairly late this year but hopefully this may mean that we get a bit of sunshine! I have received all the paperwork from the organisers and our usual spot has been booked. I am afraid that once again we will have to put up with the sound of the Westfields ruining tyres. Still I am sure that this won’t detract from the lovely week-end we usually have here and I look


forward to seeing as many of you as possible. AGM – 3.00 p.m. on Sunday 6th May 2012 I have booked our AGM for 3.00 pm on the Sunday in the usual small downstairs room at the Warwick Suite in Avenue M. If you are attending the show on Sunday then please come to the AGM as we do value your opinions. If there is anything you would like to have discussed at the AGM then please let me know before the next magazine comes out and I will have it put on the Agenda. KIT CAR SHOW NEWARK 16th and 17th June 2012 The Newark show will this year be on the 16th and 17th June. I have booked our

usual spot for the week-end. Once again, due to poor membership turn out, the club will only have the bare minimum of facilities at this show only on the Sunday KIT CAR SHOW Exeter – 20th and 21st October 2012 This show is the second one which has been taken over by Roger Cooling and it has reverted back to October. Details of it are still a bit vague, but I am told that I should have details in a few days. I suspect that he will try and organise this as a mini Stoneleigh as well as Detling. This showground does not really lend itself to club stands as there is only hard standing and I am not happy about spending a week-end out in the cold. We will wait and see what is offered and I’ll let you all know what is happening nearer the time.

The Beauford Owners Wine Club Special

California vintners in the Napa Valley area, which primarily produce Pinot Blanc, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Grigio wines, have developed a new hybrid grape that acts as an anti-diuretic. It is expected to reduce the number of trips older people have to make to the bathroom during the night. The new wine will be marketed as



DATSUN ENGINE OVERHAUL Trevor and the Z Garage

Ready for the project to begin? My winter project this year is to overhaul an ancient 260Z engine which looks a bit worse for wear after being recovered from a scrap yard. The pictures show a previous refurbishment. I like having a spare engine in the garage just in case anything goes wrong with of my Beauford and a wedding is pending. It’s much easier to change the engine than to rush and try to carry out a major repair in situ. So with Christmas out of the way, it’s down to the garage. I thought that while I’m getting ready to start the job, I could put together a few words for the magazine so here goes. My thanks to the Z Garage for their assistance. The purpose of my little article is not to provide a blow by blow guide to refurbishing a Nissan/Datsun straight six (L24, L26 or L28) but to discus some of the t hings th a t th e workshop manual takes for granted. The Nissan L ! series of engines have proven to be almost ‘bullet proof’ since they first appeared nearly 50 years ago. They have now been used in a wide range of cars from the 240Z to the Patrol. Nissan cylinder bores are very tough nickelsteel. While old British and American engines commonly require a rebore, it's very common to open up a 30 year old Nissan motor with 200,000+ miles to find the factory

crosshatching intact in the cylinder walls. Datsun designed the Z in 1969 as a 7,000 rpm sports car engine and as a result supplied it with balanced forged steel crankshaft and con rods. This design worked extremely well since inline-6 engines are considered one of the most optimally balanced of all the car engine designs, with nearly perfect Primary and Secondary balance characteristics. Such well balanced engines usually mean that the bottom end components of the engine (crankshaft and conrods) rarely need machining - but do check when the pistons are out.

GeCng the spare parts As I’m sure many of you will have found out, Nissan spares are not renown for their low cost if you get them from your local dealer. Nor are they readily available which is of greater c o n c e r n . However, across the water in the good old USA, the Z car following is huge ! and spares are easily available at what is a relatively good price. The Fel-pro overhaul gasket set costs just £46 rather than over £120 from Nissan in the UK. Just watch the cost of shipping. I ask them to ship via the US Mail system which isn’t the quickest but it is certainly the cheapest. I will put a list of suppliers at the end of this article. 11

Workshop Manuals While the Datsun workshop manuals show you the procedures, they don't discuss the principles of engine rebuilding. For that check out a few Practical Mechanic type magazines (Practical Classics is quite good) and study their engine rebuilding tips. V8, or L28, the basic concepts are all the same. I suggest getting both the Chilton and Haynes manuals if they have them on Ebay since they both tend to be incomplete. The Chilton (an American manual) mainly covers replacing major components rather than troubleshooting while the Haynes is a British manual with some quite useful photos and helpful workarounds. Between them you can usually sort out how to do most jobs.

Engine In or Out? If you ever wondered, you can rebuild a L engine while still in a Beauford. You can unbolt the sump and take it out without much difficulty. If the oil pickup gets in the way slip a wrench in sideways and unbolt it. You can then remove the cylinder head and pull the pistons out. Personally, I recommend spending £25 or so and hiring an engine hoist and putting it on a stand. Lying contorted under a dripping motor was ok the first time but o-nce is enough and my other rebuilds have been done by removing the engine - much easier.

The Engine I am sure that most Nissan engined Beauford owners are familiar with the procedure for removing and installing engines from their cars. However, I would just remind you to plug the gearbox propshaft exit before tilting the assembly on a hoist. In the past, I have forgotten to do it and been reminded when I noticed the oil spreading across the garage floor. Actually, last time I put an engine into a Beauford, I found it easier to lift the car over the engine rather than lift the engine over the

car. It depends just how much room you have.

Pistons, rings and con-­‐rods Once you have removed the engine, or at least removed the sump and cylinder head, remove the pistons. The workshop manual describes this procedure quite well. Remember the 10mm allen socket for the cylinder head bolts.

Balancing Nissan inline-6 engines are considered by many as one of the most optimally balanced of all the car engine designs, with nearly perfect balance characteristics. On my last three Nissan L engines I haven’t needed a single factory part rebalanced. Go Nissan! Ford didn't help engine reputations when they produced V8 engines that were externally balanced, sometimes even in the high-performance versions. Why? Likely because forging steel parts and balancing thousands of engines on an assembly line was expensive and time-consuming. As a result many V8 crankshafts and con rods were made of weaker cast iron. This is a likely reason L-series Z motors easily achieve over 200k miles while British and American ones of that era were lucky to see 100k. So, down to business...... Connec&ng Rods While I'm sure some Datsun conrods have required resizing, I wouldn't consider it. My machinist laughed when I asked him to check mine, he said Datsun/Nissan conrods are so good that it's not an issue - but checked mine anyway. They were perfect. Cleaning the Head and Pistons When cleaning off the hard carbon on the piston tops, don't use a wire brush on a drill, or you'll grind into it. I let the tops soak in carb cleaner for a while, and then use a Scotchbrite pad. It takes a while to get it all off, but be patient. Use a piece of broken ring to clean out each groove, and make 12

sure the grooves are PERFECTLY clean with no burrs. Don't use a cheap sponge with Scotchbrite on one side, use a real Scotchbrite pad.

Ring Types

There are three types of piston ring materials used on the face of top rings for automobiles: cast iron, moly, and chrome.

MOLY Molybdenum is very porous which results in more retention of oil in the face of the ring and also has the highest melting point of the three types. In continuous high speed or severe load conditions moly faced rings are considered the best choice b e c a u s e o f h i g h s c u ff a n d s c o r i n g resistance. CAST IRON I think that cast iron rings are a good choice for a road car. For typical driving where the car is not subjected to long periods of high speed, plain cast iron is very durable. CHROME Chrome's smoothness and hardness keeps dirt from impacting into the face of the ring which can cause cylinder wear. CONCLUSIONS: Moly rings are the "best" for high performance as they seal well, resist scuffing and are used on nearly all modern performance engines. Cast iron is very durable and seals well, Chrome is good for performance too but requires a special hone finish in the cylinder to break in properly. I wouldn't lose sleep over which is best, buy what makes you feel most comfortable.

An Aside The last engine that I rebuilt was certainly of unknown history. I had seen it for sale on Ebay about a week earlier, and without a reserve. I was driving home from London one Friday and was on the phone to my wife (hands free) and I asked her to have a look at how the auction was going. She called back a couple of minutes later and said that it still didn’t have any bids on it and was available for 99 pence! So she had put a bid on it. 5 minutes later, I got a call from the seller telling me that I had won his engine and to note that he “didn’t do part exchange or offer terms”. Wow! My 99p engine! The engine had been found fitted to an E Type Jaguar that had been sent back from California for restoration. The owner was so disgusted that anyone would fir a Nissan engine to a Jaguar that he told the restorers to “just get rid of it”. I rebuilt the engine. When I took it apart, it had non standard pistons. The rings that I ordered from the USA were standard but when they arrived, the compression ring was too loose. I phoned Grants in the USA (the ring manufacturers) and told them. They made me a set of compression rings to my specification without charge! Now that is service! I’ve alway used Grant piston rings since. RING INSTALLATION Don't try to install or remove piston rings with your fingers, spend £5 and buy a piston ring spreader. It makes installing them much easier, and reduces any scoring of the piston as well as the possibility of breaking one (as no-one sells single piston rings).

Ring Oiling: Early Haynes repair manuals says to "liberally" oil the pistons before installing which was changed to "lightly" in the later 280ZX version of the book. I spoke to a technician at Total Seal Piston Rings 13

and asked his advice on installing rings. He was emphatic that rings should be broken in "dry" with only a light film of oil on the cylinder wall, no dipping the piston tops in oil like some old books show.

scratch running top to bottom that's deep enough to catch your fingernail you should get a rebore. FLEX-HONE If you want to hone it yourself try a "Flex-hone" made by the company Brush Research. It fits into your power drill and lets you hone each cylinder yourself for 10-30 seconds. This de-glazes the wall and creates new crosshatching for rings to seat. The crosshatching should appear at a 45 degree angle to maintain oil. Look for model GBD-3 1/2" (89mm) with a silicon carbide stone. I use a 240 grit which is their finest for honing.

Boring the Cylinders The max safe overbore on a L28 is said to be about .060" although some people have gone out to .100" or higher. NOTE: You might scrimp on other things but do get your This is a professionally bored and honed L28. The cylinders may look rough but they were as smooth as glass, a really beautiful job by the machinist. Note the overlapping crosshatch pattern.

Use a 10W-30 cutting oil. Glyptal Pain&ng After cleaning off casting flash and grinding down any sharp edges in the crank area of the block, you might consider painting the interior with Glyptal. Glyptal has been made by GE since 1924, and is mainly used as a heavy enamel for armature windings on generators. For years racers and vintage engine rebuilders have been using it to coat

! !

block bored properly if it needs it. Otherwise you will live with blow-by and reduced horsepower until it is bored properly someday. A quality machinist will try to leave about .004" of material un-bored to be used up when you hone the cylinder. So if you decide to get your block bored ask them how much they leave on for honing. If they say it doesn't matter go somewhere else.

Honing Nissan cylinder bores are very tough nickelsteel. As a result it's not always necessary to rebore the cylinders unless you have the need for an oversize piston. If you decide to simply add new rings you can usually get away with honing the cylinders to roughen or "de-glaze" them. However, if you have a



the interior of blocks at rebuild time. My own reasons for painting the block interior are: "to prevent sludge from adhering to the metal surfaces, the added peace of mind that you've prepped the interior of block and sealed any grit... and that it looks great". It might seem pricey but a little goes a very 14

long way. Cleaning Bores When cleaning out honed bores use a lintfree cotton cloth, don't use paper towels which are really just sheets of compressed wood fibers that can remain in the metal grain. Instead of using WD40 or brake cleaner as recommended in several workshop manuals, an old trick is to use ATF (auto transmission fluid). ATF is a 10 weight oil with high-detergent properties with an unusual feature: When used to clean metal An early rebuild crankshaft going back in after cleaning and polishing, Note the polished interior of the block.

parts it seems to pull up residue that nothing else will. On my last rebuild I thought the honed bores were clean, but after running a cloth with ATF through it came out with gray residue. Mysterious but very cool. CrankshaP Made of Precision forged steel, this is the very heart of a Z motor. The 7 bearing arrangement is mainly responsible for the longevity and durability of these engines. Japanese crankshafts are generally perfectly balanced, and these are no exception. But if you're doing a rebuild, it's worth getting it checked and journals polished by the machine shop. Cam Chain Tensioner As you probably know, there's a chain-

tensioner deep down inside the front cover. This little item presses tightly against the cam chain and is a real problem if you take the cam sprocket off without wedging the chain in place. You'll find that suddenly the timing chain is too short. This is because the slack is taken up as this tensioner pushes against the chain. I've heard of some people levering it back with a long screwdriver but I don't trust that. If you messed up the chain timing, you should remove the front cover and reposition everything to be sure its correct. A few hours work unfortunately. Make a chain wedge from the diagram in the Chilton manual to prevent this from happening. Front Cover Since the oil and water pump are here, the mating surfaces on the cover must be spotless upon installation otherwise you will have an oil or water leak. It's very hard to get the old gaskets off so spend extra attention here. The best method is to use gasket removal spray and then a sharp razor blade to slice off the old gaskets. But be careful not to gouge the aluminum or slice too deep. Then follow it up with fine emory paper on both the cover and engine block surfaces. Forget silicone sealer, use a brush-on gasket sealer like Permatex 300 to seal it tight as a drum. You should tap out the threads on the front of the block. The original bolts get pretty cruddy, so I would use new ones. As recommended by the factory, put an extra spot of sealer in each corner of the cover to seal against pan oil leaks. NOTE: be very careful when removing the distributor and/or water outlet base bolts. After 25+ years they can get seized in, and will break off in the aluminum easily. The distributor base is usually removable, but be wary of the water outlet bolts because it will ruin the cover if you break one off..

Cylinder Head Valve Seals Valve seals tend to shrink as they age and let 15

oil drip past them into the cylinder, creating smoking on startup. They are inexpensive to buy and are not as tough to replace as you think. You don’t have to remove the cylinder head at all. If your oily Nisan engine just has perished valve seals, why not try this. People have been using the "rope trick" of stuffing a length of rope in through the spark plug hole to hold up the valves for decades. The faster and easier method I use is to get a foot of clear vinyl hose from the hardware store. I forget the diameter but it should be the largest diameter to fit into the spark plug hole. Just bring the piston to the top of its stroke and push the hose as far as you can through the spark plug hole. It compresses against both valves and holds them fully up. You can them take off each rocker-arm/ spring to replace the seal....when finished simply pull the hose back out. Beforehand search the internet and buy a spring compressor which is made for OHC engines. Using this tool with the hose trick lets you whiz down the head and replace each seal in under 5 minutes. Bearing Pre-­‐lubrica&on You should always use a good startup oil to keep the bearings slick on startup to prevent scuffing or seizing.

GASKETS and FASTENERS Head According to Nissan, L series head-gaskets should be installed dry (no sealer). I've tried a couple of head-gasket brands and I really like the Fel-Pro brand. It seals well and as a bonus at rebuild it simply pops off the block, little scraping is necessary. I very lightly spread Permatex 300 around the water jacket holes on the gasket. This keeps it from weeping coolant from the edges which sometimes occurs on older motors. Front Cover Use brush on sealer and it should seal tight as a drum. Make sure you triple-check cleanliness to make sure there are no gaskets bits left on the contact surface, a

razor-blade lightly slid down the surface can find them.

Carburetor When possible replace ancient float bowl gaskets with newer material versions. Double check the old balance-tube gaskets as they can leak which really screws up the mixture. These gaskets can be fabricated by buying "gasket material" at the Halfords and cutting them out yourself. Intake/Exhaust I have also used a Fel-Pro intake/exhaust gasket with a metallic core. It seals perfectly, with no black soot around the exhaust ports. Oil Sump Place a straight edge across the sump to identify high spots and possible sealing problem areas. Use a brush-on gasket sealer instead of silicone sealer on both sides of the gasket before installing. Be warned - do not over tighten the sump bolts as it will cause the gasket to bulge and leak. Ensure that you fit lock or shake proof washers.

Cam Towers As I said previously for rebuild info, these can be removed and replaced with no problems. The specs only ask for 10lb of torque on the bolts. Be careful you don't overtighten and strip one out.

Spark Plugs I bought a 14mm tap chaser and cleaned out the spark plug threads when my head was off. Lots of carbon came out. Since aluminum threads strip easily, probably not a bad idea. I use copper grease on the plug threads on install. I never had problems with threads stripping, but it couldn't hurt. I still like NGK plugs and they have never let me down.

Bolts Don't use black oxide (carbon steel) bolts for locations exposed to the elements. They are high strength and look great when new, but the black oxide they are covered with is 16

thin and they will rust within a few days exposure to the elements. These work well as head and con-rod bolts because they remain covered in oil. Stainless steel isn't as strong as alloy steel, but works fine in the front cover and other

says something about the quality of Datsun engines as a whole. Today's SM API rated oils have much more detergent and anti varnishing abilities and are said to be stable out to 10,000 miles. However, older engines with mechanical valve tappets like the L-series engines and

F54 bored out .5mm with new pistons


engine locations where specialized bolts aren't needed. Zinc plated steel is an acceptable choice and has high strength.

Taps and Dies A set of taps to recut threads in rusted/ stripped bolt holes will save your sanity several times over. Tap out every hole when you remove a bolt (same size of course) to ensure accurate and trouble free torquing. This especially true on the head, where sticky manifold threads can result in over tightening and stripped threads. Also when the head is off, tap out the all bolt threads in the block. This gives much more accurate torque readings when installing the head. In case you wondered, the correct thread for the oil sensor hole on the passenger side of the block is 1/8" -18 NPT (National Pipe Thread).


The quality of the oils used today versus what was available in the 1970s is as different as night-and-day. Back then it would sludge up engines and fill sumps with glop. It's amazing so many Datsun engines made it to 200,000 miles using that oil. It really

V8s with flat tappets (not roller cams) were designed for motor oil which contains a moderate amount of zinc and phosphorus known as ZDDP (zinc diaklydithiophosphate). Luckily there are still some oils using ZDDP in a viscosity that doesn't reduce horsepower. Also, REDLINE Engine Oil Break-In Additive / ZDDP booster can be added to synthetic or mineral oils. I tend to use Fuchs 10W 50. It’s worth looking at the Opie Oils website and don’t forget we get a Club discount

Oil Filter

Oil filters don't increase horsepower or make the engine breathe better. They filter the oil. The particle size considered to cause the most wear is 15-30 microns in diameter. What you need is a filter which can reliably filter the smallest particle size from your oil supply. Don’t use racing oil filters as many are designed for maximum flow by allowing everything up to 50 microns or so to pass into the engine. I use K&N Pro Series Oil Filters (HP-2004) which have been specially designed for professional installers and service providers.


So finally its time to start the rebuilt engine 17


Useful Contacts and Suppliers If you have come across a useful contact or supplier, you might like to let the Editor know so that it can be included here for the benefit of other members.




Opie Oils

Supplies a full range of Oils and greases etc and gives Club Members a 10% discount.

Import Replacement Parts

Supplies Nissan and Datsun spares from the USA at less than half the price of the same items in the UK. Ask them to send the spares using US Mail rather than a courier - its a lot cheaper. (ask for Jeff and mention the Beauford Owners Club and Paul)

Excellence Autoparts

Oil pumps for L series engines at 1/3 of the UK price (ÂŁ39) and they work well. Look at the high capacity pump for the L28 as a replacement for your standard oil pump - really good. Based in Taiwan but very reliable. Contact them for advice.

Excellence Autoparts on Ebay ExcellenceAutoParts? _trksid=p4340.l2563

Grants Piston Rings

Grants Piston Rings have one of the most comprehensive ranges in the industry. If you need a special set of rings, these guys are the tops, they are really helpful.

Boston Radiator Services

BRS will make you a radiator that will fit exactly into the front frame of your Beauford. Double cored for extra cooling.

(01205) 369555

Stitchy Buckles Tailoring

1930s Style Chauffeur's uniforms Malcolm Parkes made by a uniform specialist. Mention 01535 644391 the R30 design to get a 1930 uniform.


Vehicle glass made to measure and E marked

Unit 2 Bruntsford Hill Business Park Bromsgrove B60 3DX 01527 577477



FIRST-­‐TIME STARTUP There are a hundred methods to run in engines, from running full throttle immediately to babying it for 1,000 miles. I'm not going to discuss which is correct, I'm just going to just list the methods I use for myself. Cam break-in is not covered which has a whole other list of to-do's. So the tips below are for general engine startup. Bearings generally don't need running-in, what we want to concentrate on is seating the rings against the cylinder walls to ensure high compression for the engine's life. This needs to be done properly early on. Immediately on first startup, check the oil pressure and bring the engine up to 2,000, listening for noises, looking for leaks, adding water, etc. - - Try to use as little choke as possible as the extra fuel can wash the oil from the cylinder walls and affect ring seating. Don't race the engine but blipping the throttle is fine. Let the motor idle at 2,000 until it reaches full operating temperature. Once at full temperature bring it down to idle, re-check the timing, synch the carbs. I don't believe in pampering by letting the car cool down for 24 hours to "set", that doesn't happen on new cars at the factory. Instead, if all seems solid I go for a testdrive as soon as possible. You need a traffic free area for this next step. Once on the road accelerate moderately up to 3,500 in a lower gear, let off the throttle abruptly. Let the engine braking pull the motor down to 1,500 rpm or so. Do this 10

or more times in the lower gears, in different rev ranges. This is a well known method which uses the engine vacuum pull the rings against the cylinder walls to ensure proper seating. After these initial "throttle dumps" do some moderate driving at different speeds around the area. Continue to do moderate acceleration, occasionally backing off the throttle as before using the engine vacuum to brake the motor. Some people say the rings seat immediately, but I like to take my time over the first couple of hundred miles to let the rings seat smoothly. Try to do as much driving in this first phase as possible (perhaps wait until a weekend). Change the oil at 100 miles. By the time you get a couple of hundred miles on the engine you will notice the idle is smoother and stable, with smoother revving and all around "better" feel. If your cylinders have been bored properly ring seating is generally quick at a couple of hundred miles. If your cylinders are roughly honed it might take you a 1000. Doing a compression check will tell you. Don't start doing 0-60 runs with the startup oil in the crankcase as it has prelube remnants and other contaminants in it. Wait until after the first oil change and at 500 miles if everything seems stable and tight, start taking the engine closer to redline occasionally. By the time you get to 1000 miles you should be revving the engine to redline with no guilt and a healthy engine.


Notes on building our second Beauford (Or how much our car owes it’s life to E-­‐bay) Tony Ovenden

Engine parts eventually produced a pair of alloy rocker covers to replace the original rather battered pressed steel examples. I had to Helecoil a couple of stripped threads to take the new stainless rocker cover bolts, other than that the re-assembly was straight-forward.

Having used and enjoyed our standard 4-door Beauford for about 14 years, we wondered whether it was time to consider moving on from the old Cortina based model and tackle a Sierra kit. Our minds were made up when we received an advert for a long-bodied kit that had been bought from Beauford Cars but never started. It did not take long to agree a price, hire a trailer and fetch the kit home. The next steps were to sell our old faithful and find a suitable donor. E-bay was the answer to both. We managed to sell for the price we wanted and to find a reasonably priced Sierra XR4i (2.8 litre V6). First impressions of our donor were favourable (we managed to drive it home without anything breaking or falling off). Stripping the Sierra down revealed one or two things that should have sounded warning bells, wheel nuts were missing, and the brakes had been "upgraded" with Cosworth parts. We decided right from the start that we would recondition or replace every part that was to be fitted to our new project. Brake calipers were removed and sent away for rebuilding by a specialist firm. The engine was dismantled and taken to a local reconditioner for a thorough check and re-bore. The cylinder heads were reseated for non-leaded fuel. I decided to reassemble it myself. I decided to use stainless steel bolts where practicable. I bought a huge bag of assorted bolts and nuts which Liz spent an hour or two sorting into compartmented boxes. A saved search on E-bay for Cologne

The donor car was fitted with Bosch K-Jetronic fuel injection and this was to be retained even though I had little knowledge of the system (it’s called on-the-job learning I think). Due to the lack of under-bonnet space compared to the Sierra, a replacement intake air chamber was needed which I fabricated from aluminium with the aid of a welding kit obtained at the Stoneleigh Kit Car Show. A remote air filter was mounted in front of the radiator. (Radiator from Astra turbo-diesel with a Pacet 14” fan in front to assist the standard Ford thermo-viscous engine mounted one).

Our first big problem came when offering up the engine/gearbox to the Beauford chassis - the mountings were in the wrong place! See Article in Winter 09, issue 77 edition for details. Fortunately a local garage was able to move the engine mountings rearwards by 4 inches and to weld in suitable pick-up points for the Ford gearbox cross-member. A custom-made onepiece prop-shaft completed the link to the rear diff and axle. The exhaust system is standard specification front and middle sections together with a 20

shortened stainless steel back box from a local specialist. The Sierra heater unit was fitted with air intakes via 4 inch trunking to a pair of circular grilles mounted each side behind the spare wheels. Several Beaufords we have seen have used 15" alloy wheels from the Ford Mondeo. These have large enough off-sets that allow them to fit beneath the Beauford wings without protruding. E-bay provided the 6 wheels required reasonably cheaply. Because the original Sierra wheels were steel, it was necessary to fit longer studs to the hubs to allow for the thickness of the alloys. Long studs can be easily got from a provider of rally parts. The Ford centre caps were modified by replacing the Ford logo with a chromed "B" on a black nylon disc. After cleaning, re-painting, and fitting tyres with a 3/4" wide whitewall band, we were pleased with their final appearance. Having suffered with rain getting into the standard luggage box on our previous car, I designed my own box made from aluminium sheet riveted to a welded steel framework. The front section and top is hinged using MGB type boot hinges and closed and locked with a Mini boot type "T" handle. The whole was then

are held down by double depth turn-buckle catches as used for canopy sides on boats, doing away with the usual spring hooks, and hood hoops have stainless ball and socket

joints instead of the Beauford hand-wheels. We had the Beauford hood frames copied in stainless steel, with the removable betweenthe-doors frame redesigned in three sections (two uprights and a slot-in cross piece for easy storage). The forward struts at the rear were replaced by a square section rod inside a box section tube to make a extendable sliding strut that did not have to be removed when lowering the hood. Stainless steel U section obtained from a shower screen manufacturer was used to frame the rear door slot-in windows.

covered in black vinyl. Pair of large diameter hand wheels in the base are used to attach the box to the Beauford rack. Over-centre latches (not IVA friendly) are not used. Other modifications were made in order to comply with IVA requirements. Bonnet sides

External finishing includes the radiator surround silver lacquered to give a chrome effect, period Lucas chrome on brass 21

use “E” marked glass instead of the previous BS marked glass. This was obtained for all four side windows from Uroglas in Bromsgrove who provide glass to the car industry. Having obtain this glass the change in the glass rules was put off for another couple of years! Seating from a Jaguar XJS was found to fit with

headlamps (auto-jumble) and a pair of stainless trumpet horns bought from a ship’s chandler for £63 for the pair. These do not come with bug covers, but I was able to make my own by spinning pewter discs over a wooden former on my wood lathe. Articles printed in earlier club magazines give details in summer 2009, (issue 79) of front door slight modification to the rear seat back plus wooden blocks placed under the front head restraints to raise them up to IVA requirements. A local trimmer re-covered the Jaguar seats in silver grey leather with dark grey piping, the matching vinyl door cards and dash-board surround we made ourselves (Mostly by Liz with me giving "helpful" advice).

stays and remote locking linkages and in autumn 2010, (issue 84) of exterior door handle modifications. Peugeot 206 window winders have a scissor action to lift the glass and so are less likely to tilt and jam in use. They have slightly more complicated mechanisms that have guide channels fitted to the door, but this should not cause a problem with care. We got ours from a local breaker together with the channels for bonding onto the lower edge of the glass. At this stage of the build we expected to have to

The autumn 2011 (issue 88) of the club magazine gives details of how we mounted the rear seat-belts.



Here comes the Bride, all fat and wide. Christine & Reg Barne, Barnes Wedding Cars It is a fact that as a nation there are more and more people who are obese. As I sit and write this now the programme “The Biggest Looser” is about to start!! This is becoming a problem for us as we use our Beauford cars for weddings! I have two stories to tell!! The chauffeur was sent to collect a bride from a hotel in Bournemouth. As he drove down the road he saw the bride waiting for him and his immediate reaction was that this was a Candid Camera/Jeremy Beadle prank. She was massive, probably about 30 stone! He stopped the car, opened the door of the 4 door long wheel based Beauford, held the bride’s flowers as she stepped into the car. Except the problem was she was too wide to get through the door, so she turned sideways but still she was too wide. It was starting to spit with rain but the chauffeur decided he must take the hood down so that the bride could stand up as she got into the car and then her legs would be easier to get in than the rest of her middle! Even then she struggled so in the end he put his shoulder into her back and pushed! She and her big white dress filled the back seat, the dad had to sit in the front. When the chauffeur looked in the rear view mirror he said all he could see was this big white mass.

When the bride came out of the church to go to the reception the very small thin groom sat in the front and as they drove away he turned round to his new wife and said “you alright gorgeous!” It must be is in the eye of the beholder!! My second story is similar although this time the bride was only about 22 stone so although it was difficult for her to get in the car it was not so impossible. The difficulty was that the dad was also about the same weight and had trouble with his knees and really struggled to get in the car. The bride ended up in tears as by now they were 30 minutes late for the church service. The chauffeur breathed a sigh of relief because they could now get on their way but the relief soon turned to despair as he was told that the mother of the bride was also coming, and guess what?! She too was a good 22 stone! So now with the driver’s 12 stone there was about 78 stone in the car and the suspension did not like it! We have thought long and hard about how to get around situations like this. Should we have a part on the booking form that asks the weight of the bride, the dad and the groom? We know we cannot do that! We always try and encourage people to view the cars prior to their wedding so that embarrassing situations like this can be avoided. I wonder if other wedding car owners have had this problem? If you have a solution please let us know


Two Irishmen walk into a pet shop in Dingle, they walk over to the bird section and Gerry says to Paddy, 'Dat's dem.' The owner comes over and asks if he can help them. 'Yeah, we'll take four of dem dere little budgies in dat cage up dere,' says Gerry. The owner puts the budgies in a cardboard box. Paddy and Gerry pay for the birds, leave the shop and get into Gerry's truck to drive to the top of the Connor Pass. At the Connor Pass , Gerry looks down at the 1000 foot drop and says, 'Dis looks like a grand place..' He takes two birds out of the box, puts one on each shoulder and jumps off the cliff. Paddy watches as the budgies fly off and Gerry falls all the way to the bottom, killing himself stone dead. Looking down at the remains of his best pal, Paddy shakes his head and says, 'Fook dat. Dis budgie jumping is too fook'n dangerous for me!' THERE'S MORE. .. Moment's later; Seamus arrives up at Connor Pass. He's been to the pet shop too and walks up to

the edge of the cliff carrying another cardboard box in one hand and a shotgun in the other.. 'Hi, Paddy, watch dis,' Seamus says. He takes a parrot from the box and lets him fly free. He then throws himself over the edge of the cliff with the gun. Paddy watches as half way down, Seamus takes the gun and shoots the parrot. Seamus continues to plummet down and down until he hits the bottom and breaks every bone in his body. addy shakes his head and says, 'And I'm never trying dat parrotshooting either!' IT IS NOT OVER YET... Paddy is just getting over the shock of losing two friends when Sean appears. He's also been to the pet shop and is carrying a cardboard box out of which he pulls a chicken. Sean then takes the chicken by its legs and hurls himself off the cliff and disappears down and down until he hits a rock and breaks his spine. Once more Paddy shakes his head.

'Fook dat, lads. First dere was Gerry with his budgie jumping, den Seamus parrotshooting... And now Sean and his fook'n hengliding!'

Bill and his wife Blanche go to the county fair every year and every year Bill would say, "Blanche, I'd like to ride in that helicopter. " Blanche always replied, " I know Bill, but that helicopter ride is twenty quid and twenty quid is twenty quid! " One year Bill and Blanche went to the fair, and Bill said, "Blanche, I'm 75 years old. If I don't ride that helicopter, I might never get another chance." To this, Blanche replied, " Bill that helicopter ride is twenty quid, and twenty quid is twenty quid." The pilot overheard the couple and said, " Folks I'll make you a deal. I'll take the both of you for a ride. If you can stay quiet for the entire ride and don't say a word I won't charge you a penny! But if you say one word it's twenty quid. " Bill and Blanche agreed and up they went. The pilot did all kinds of fancy manoeuvres, but not a word was heard. He did his daredevil tricks over and over again, but still not a word. When they landed, the pilot turned to Bill and said, " By golly, I did everything I could to get you to yell out, but you didn't. I'm impressed! " Bill replied, " Well, to tell you the truth I almost said something when Blanche fell out. But you know, twenty quid is twenty quid!" 24


"And we never had a whole Mars bar until 1993"!!! CONGRATULATIONS TO ALL MY FRIENDS WHO WERE BORN IN THE 1940's, 50's, and 60's First, we survived being born to mothers who smoked and/or drank Sherry while they carried us and lived in houses made of asbestos... They took aspirin, ate blue cheese, bread and dripping, raw egg products, loads of bacon and processed meat, tuna from a can, and didn't get tested for diabetes or cervical cancer. Then after that trauma, our baby cots were covered with bright coloured lead-based paints. We had no childproof lids on medicine bottles, doors or cabinets and when we rode our bikes, we had no helmets or shoes, not to mention, the risks we took hitchhiking. As children, we would ride in cars with no seat belts or air bags. We drank water from the garden hose and NOT from a bottle. Take away food was limited to fish and chips, no pizza shops, McDonalds , KFC, Subway or Nandos. Even though all the shops closed at 6.00pm and didn't open on a Sunday, somehow we didn't starve to death! We shared one soft drink with four friends, from one bottle and NO ONE actually died from this. We could collect old drink bottles and cash them in at the corner store and buy Toffees, Gobstoppers and Bubble Gum. We ate cupcakes, white bread and real butter, milk from the cow, and drank soft drinks with sugar in it, but we weren't overweight because...... WE WERE ALWAYS OUTSIDE PLAYING!! We would leave home in the morning and play all day, as long as we were back when the streetlights came on. No one was able to reach us all day. And we were OK. We would spend hours building our go-carts out of old prams and then ride down the hill, only to find out we forgot the brakes. We built

tree houses and dens and played in river beds with matchbox cars. We did not have Playstations, Nintendo Wii , Xboxes, no video games at all, no 999 channels on SKY , no video/dvd films, or colour TV no mobile phones, no personal computers, no Internet or Internet chat rooms..........WE HAD FRIENDS and we went outside and found them! We fell out of trees, got cut, broke bones and teeth and there were no Lawsuits from these accidents. Only girls had pierced ears! We ate worms and mud pies made from dirt, and the worms did not live in us forever. You could only buy Easter Eggs and Hot Cross Buns at Easter time.... We were given air guns and catapults for our 10th birthdays, We rode bikes or walked to a friend's house and knocked on the door or rang the bell, or just yelled for them! Mum didn't have to go to work to help dad make ends meet because we didn't need to keep up with the Jones's! Not everyone made the rugby/football/cricket/ netball team. Those who didn't had to learn to deal with disappointment. Imagine that!! Getting into the team was based on MERIT Our teachers used to hit us with canes and gym shoes and throw the blackboard rubber at us if they thought we weren't concentrating . We can string sentences together and spell and have proper conversations because of a good, solid three R's education. Our parents would tell us to ask a stranger to help us cross the road. The idea of a parent bailing us out if we broke the law was unheard of. They actually sided with the law! Our parents didn't invent stupid names for their kids like 'Kiora' and 'Blade' and 'Ridge' and 'Vanilla'

We had freedom, failure, success and responsibility, and we learned


For Sale 4 door caps In very good condition Walnut Burr veneer on ply wood Asking £75.00 Postage £9.50

Dog Available....... I was broken into last night by two robbers who locked me in the bathroom, and proceeded to steal all they could carry out. My watchdog, "Killer", did not alert me, and for this reason I am giving him away. I no longer want a dog – I´m installing an electric fence and detection devices with alarms. They´re cheaper and more reliable. For those interested in adopting the dog please send an e-mail urgently. A photo of "Killer" is attached below.

Luggage Rack Mild Steel painted Black Asking £60.00 Postage £12.00

He does have a few problems but with help, he should be ok!! Payment via Pay Pal, Collection in person welcome Contact Brian Barry 0797 4104 668 or via or

Taken from a 2.3L Ford Sierra. A full set of 9” (228mm) brake drums, back plates and wheel cylinders. Includes a new set of brake shoes (still in box). The drums and backplates have been cleaned and painted ready to fit. The cylinders are clean and serviceable (no leaks). As fitted to 1.8, 2.0 and 2.3 Sierras. NOT included are shoe retaining springs, etc and auto adjusters. Price: Any reasonable offer (they need a good home) Phone Tony Ovenden on 01788 547033 26

Our Beauford Experience Keith and Pauline Wilkinson Our first Bo (Bo1) is a white 2 door that we purchased "used" from Caremore cars of St Helens about 4 years ago. They had taken it in p/x against a new build Regent (ex taxi). It was pretty nasty when we saw it but we could see the potential and agreed a deal which included a new roof, new leather interior, carpets etc so now she's good-as-new so to speak and very popular for weddings. All credit to Caremore for doing a sterling job on the refurb. I think we made the right decision on the new interior colour scheme - cream leather piped burgundy with burgundy carpets. very tasteful and loved by the brides & a nice contrast to the all-white body. She has the ubiquitous 2.0 Ford pinto with manual 5 speed and based on Cortina IV chassis. To date we have only replaced the starter motor and basic servicing in 4 yrs. Prior to getting Bo1 we ran a small fleet of Rolls Royce Silver Shadows (3), Silver Spur (1) and Mercedes cars (2) and 1 Yankie Limo. I'd always rejected the idea of a Beauford - I'd seen many on weddings & whilst they looked good, my thoughts were always "not a proper car like a Rolls"

However we were always being asked for them so, I have to say reluctantly, we made the decision to get one. We didn't have much experience on 2 or 4 doors so Bo1 was something of a test. She has proved so successful that in January last year we made the decision to add a second (Bo2) and although it grieves me to say it, get rid of a couple of the Rolls cars beautiful as they are, they are just not as "in demand" as the Bo's. (and they cost an arm & a leg to keep on the road) Bo2 is another 2 door in Olde English White, cream leather with black carpets and some snazzy alloy wheels. She has a Nissan 2.8 straight six with auto box on Cortina V chassis. To date we haven't spent a penny on her other than routine servicing. Our experience has shown that Bo1 with the warmer interior is generally chosen if the two are available although the grooms tend to prefer the alloy wheels of Bo2. Both are in high demand and now booked out for every Saturday & most Sundays throughout the 2012 season . 27

THE BEAUFORD OWNERS CLUB MAGAZINE On the topic of 2 door v 4 door - those companies who operate the 4 door versions always seem to think they are better and whilst there are benefits (an extra seat), generally I'd have to disagree. We've taken out our front passenger seat to aid entry.

than that as each bridesmaid was about 20+ stone and the bride was probably 25 stone. So I had to do a trip with each bridesmaid on her own and then the bride taking up the full back seat with dad kneeling on the floor beside me. (lets ignore the legality of that for now). All I

We've had many brides who have "test driven" 4 door versions yet have booked our cars instead. They say that getting in & out of the two door is easier with the larger door and the space available where the seat used to be, is better for "the dress" and the car feels bigger. That's about all I can offer on the history of the cars.....suffice to say we now have a reduced fleet of 2 Bo's, 2 Rolls, 2 Mercs and a Limo. Much more streamlined and a lot less costly to keep on the road. I only really have one anecdote about the cars on weddings (apart from the fact that all the men seem to "know" that they are Bentleys because of the B on the front) I was booked on a wedding in Winsford last Summer. We'd not met the bride previously, it was all booked over the phone. I was down to take two bridesmaids to church, then two more bridesmaids, then the Bride & her dad. However when I got to the house I quickly realised it was going to take more journeys

kept thinking was "oh my springs !!" Then a similar journey from the church to the reception with bride again taking over the whole of the back seat and the poor groom who was about 7 stone wet through - again kneeling on the floor next to me peering over the dash. He looked like a little terrier dog peering out into eternity. Luckily it wasn't that far but I was glad to get them out before something went seriously "bang" underneath. I don't think she's ever been under so much strain. All hail to Beauford for making them so strong. Hope that's of a tiny bit of interest, feel free to utilise if you're struggling to find anything interesting to print. Cheers Keith Keith & Pauline Wilkinson Cheshire & Lancashire Wedding Cars



And Finally Perks of reaching 60 No one expects you to run -- anywhere.  People call at 9 PM (or 9 AM) and ask, 'Did I wake you?'  People no longer view you as a hypochondriac.  There is nothing left to learn the hard way.  Things you buy now won't wear out.  You can eat supper at 4 PM.  You can live without sex but not your glasses.  You get into heated arguments about pension plans.  You no longer think of speed limits as a challenge.  You quit trying to hold your stomach in no matter who walks into the room.  Your eyes won't get much worse.  Your investment in health insurance is finally beginning to pay off.  Your joints are more accurate meteorologists than the national weather service.  Your secrets are safe with your friends because they can't remember them either.  Your supply of brain cells is finally down to a manageable size.  And you notice the next thing is in big print for your convenience.

AND THE MOST IMPORTANT THING: Never, NEVER, NEVER , under any circumstances, take a sleeping pill, and a laxative on the same night! 29