eSCENTials Men’s Women’s Spring/Summer
Fringe Benefits Runway to Reality
Display until August 2014 phabrikmagazine.com 1
magic hour “From the moment we released it, Moonglow became one of our products. We couldn’t think of anything better than letting Moonglow be our our 20th anniversary. So that’s what you’ll find in inspiration to our golden magic hour collection, products and shades that will send you .”
spring collection NEW Jelly Jar Gel Eyeliners
MARK ST. JAMES
(AKA Marquis of Fashion), is a freelance writer, fashion journalist, stylist, photographer and founder of Marquis of Fashion Inc. His latest projects include marquisoffashion.com (a personal blog reflecting the latest fashion, celebrity and style buzz) and fashioncollections.org a whirlwind of fashion collection reviews, designer and brand biographies and top fashion news stories.
Is a prolific makeup artist, stylist and educator with more than three decades of experience. His style and beauty articles have been published Canada wide in newspapers and magazines including both The Vancouver Sun and Province, Montreal Gazette and Ottawa Citizen. James’ career was recently profiled in the online edition of Fashion Magazine
Is a Graphic Designer, Artist, Writer - lets just say a modern day renaissance woman - a very eclectic individual overall. She currently obtains a Bachelor of Arts Degree: double major in Sociology and Psychology, and a Bachelor of Design: double major in Graphic Design and Advertising. Her rediscovery of fashion has recently occurred as she was always known for her style throughout the years as she constantly reinvents herself. Her attitude towards fashion: she doesn’t go with what’s trending but she sets her own trends.
is a photographer who specializes in beauty and product photography. She is based out of Edmonton She graduated from NAIT’s Photographic Technology program with honours, and has interned with Edmonton fashion photographer Aaron Pederson. She regularly contributes to Phabrik under the direction of beauty editor James Kershaw. You can check out her full portfolio at www.csidephotography. com
DANIELLE S. FUECHTMANN
Has photographed since the eighties which led to the transition to professional eight years ago. He has been a major supporter of WCFW for the last five years in various capacities including photographic contributions to many projects. As Studio E, he works on many local commercial projects with the focus on fashion and beauty.
A freelance fashion and lifestyle writer. Smitten with fashion from a very young age, Danielle split her time between copies of Vogue and literary classics. She is passionate about surrounding herself with beautiful design and is always on the hunt for new ideas. When Danielle isn’t buying bouquets of fresh flowers or reorganizing her closet, she can be found blogging at dsfuechtmann.com.
is an aspiring original sound and film score writer. After apprenticing in Montreal under folk singer Courtney Wing, her latent desire to compose and set her perspective to key was awakened. She has also contributed to the Western Canada Fashion Week blog and was co-writer for the fashion blog, A Pleasury of A-Lines and B-Lines.
Immersed in every facet of the fashion industry, He knew what he wanted from a young age. From photography and art to marketing and design, Jagodzinsky, who holds a bachelors degree in design from the University of Alberta feels that “you have to know where fashion came from to know where it’s going”. He loves the history of fashion and all aspects of art & design.
is a social media arts activist and photographer. He actively promotes and encourages connections, ethics, and social responsibility in the Alberta modeling and photographic community online. As a professional photographer since 2008, he has been published in several local and Canada-wide magazines and news publications with a focus on fashion and portraiture. His most recent work can be found at www.facebook.com\bokehccinoproject
is the fashion personality behind Edmonton style blog, Dress Me Dearly, telling the stories of Canada’s fashion and beauty industry. In between blog posts, Galloway works as fashion publicist, writer, social media instructor and wardrobe stylist.
GRANT OLSON Earned a Bachelor of Applied Arts in Still Photography from Ryerson College in Toronto. A fashion/lifestyle photographer with numerous ad campaigns, newspaper fashion layouts and magazine editorials on his resume. His most recent work, which has had him shooting globally in the U.S.A., Europe and Central America can be seen at www.thestyliste.com
IAN GRANT is a Corporate Solutions Provider specializing in Architectural photography. For almost 30 years he’s captured award-winning images for his clients. Residing in Western Canada and working from bases there and in California, he travels extensively for his work. He is a graduate of University of Alberta with a Mechanical Engineering degree and also graduated with honors from the Photographic Technology program at NAIT. To view more of Ian’s work please visit his website and blog – www.iangrantphotography. ca.
JAVIER ORTEGA Photographer Javier Ortega was born in México City. Following a family tradition, his childhood dream was to become a medical doctor. Years later, he discovered a different world and realized the power of images and it’s influence on people; Inspired by fashion and music, Javier found his greatest passion, photography, and moved to New York City to pursue it. Working in the fashion and advertising fields for over 10 years, Javier has created memorable images for international magazines and world-wide AD agencies. Overall, his work reflects an understanding that true photographic artistry is only achieved when there is both technical and creative mastery. Javier’s work can be seen in Clear Magazine, EllE MX, Emirates W, Greek Conde Nast traveller, GQ MX, GQ India, Harper’s Bazaar Dubai, Nylon MX, Vision, Zink.
HALEY BALLARD Born in NYC, raised on 3 continents, in 3 countries and 8 states, photographer Haley Ballard’s passion for travel is only rivaled by her passion for photography. At an early age, Haley’s exploration of capturing visual imagery through paintings and photography eventually became her life’s passion. Given her first camera at age 15, Haley fell in love with capturing her vision on film. Honing her skills through studies in Los Angeles, Florence and Milan, Haley’s desire to expand her unstoppable creative energy and to embark on her professional career brought her back to NYC in late 2010. Her work has been published in domestic and international magazines such as Kurv, Tantalum, ADON, Papercut, 1968 Toronto, See7, Adon, Exalt, Flux, Downtown and Phabrik. Her first big break in advertising happened this year with the current Ad Campaign for English Laundry menswear FW 2013 and kensie’s new womenswear Ad Campaign for SS14.
JOAO PAULO NUNES
João Paulo Nunes is the founder and editor of the fashion and lifestyle website thestyleexaminer. com. He is also a style blogger for huffingtonpost. co.uk and London editor for fashiontrendsetter. com. He has published articles on fashion, art, design, and architecture in several magazines including Byron, Fashion London, Geil, Muse, Palladium, Out There, Viktor, Schön!, Tatler, and Varon. He has lectured on fashion and design, was a judge on several design and architecture awards and competitions, and has worked as a consultant on fashion, style and trends to several companies (including the BBC, Diesel and Matinique). His writing career has caught the attention of a number of editors and, as a consequence, he has been interviewed for several publications and featured in the Fashion supplement of the London Times. His professional life has taken him to the USA, Spain, and the UK. He has an MPhil in English from King’s College, University of London, and has received several awards including being made a Fellow of the Royal Society of Arts in 2008. Born in Mozambique and growing up in Portugal, João Paulo makes his home in London.
Letter from the Editor PHABRIK art+designs’ mission has always been to exploring local and global talent that includes emerging and established designers, artists, and photographers. The world is an amazing place, and PHABRIK aims to explore and share it through art and culture. My personal philosophy – to support as much new creative talent as possible. It is a joy to be able to provide exposure to talent, as so much of the world now seems to be homogenized. No matter where I travel, the focus is only on prominent, established designers, while emerging artists and designers are so often ignored. It is not that established designers do not merit the attention – they certainly do – but we must be conscientious of the fact that we should support talent at all levels and be open to the new and exciting ideas and innovators. It is important to try and see through the eyes of all artists and designers seeking to express their experiences and create something worthwhile. We need to think about where we spend our time and money, and support the local designers as well to give us a more well-rounded and multifaceted perspective. Working together as a community – in order for small designers to have an impact, to have new voices heard. I would like to close by extending a special thank you to all of PHABRIk’s regular contributors that have been with us from the beginning and to extend a warm welcome to all our new contributors. Finally, a big thanks to all of the artists and writers involved with us this season, who have shared their voices and helped us accomplish our goals. Sandra Sing Fernandes Editor in Chief, Creative Director PHABRIK Magazine
CREATIVE DIRECTOR & EDITOR IN CHIEF SANDRA SING FERNANDES BEAUTY EDITOR JAMES KERSHAW COPY EDITING JAMES KERSHAW & DANIELLE FUECHTMANN GRAPHIC DESIGN DEREK JAGODZINSKY & NAHLA WATFA AMERICAN CORRESPONDENTS DIANE KOSUP & MICHAEL LISNETT FRANCE CORRESPONDENT TRACEY ELLIS UK CORRESPONDENT JOAO PAULO NUNES DIRECTOR OF SALES/ADVERTISING LUIS FONTES Contributors: Writers João Paulo Nunes, James Kershaw, Mark St James, Colleen Nuc, Janis Galloway, Danielle Fuechtmann, Paula Di Pinto, Teresa Simmons Photography Ernest at Studio-e.ca,, Corrie Side, Tracy Grabowski, Grant Olson, Ian Grant, Kelly Rosborough, Haley Ballard, Javier Ortega Makeup James Kershaw, Olivia Brownell, Jenn Vatour Hair Chantal Girard, Kelly Bula, Davines Session Team ( Simon, Julian, Nicole, Tara-Lynn, Emma, Jody, Muffin), Carl Reeves Styling Sandra Sing Fernandes, Katy Whitt, Jeffery Campbell, James Kershaw Jon Harmon, Sterling Derk, Sean McClure Contact Contact: email@example.com Beauty: firstname.lastname@example.org Advertising: email@example.com 10
Cover Photography: Ernest DeJesus studio-e.ca Styling: Sandra Sing Fernandes Hair: Kelly Bula Makeup: James Kershaw Model: Anica N. at mode models LOVE MOSCHINO t-shirt LA MAISON SIMONS sculpted headpiece
CONTENT fashion 36 volume 48 print worthy 68 natural elements architecture 32 walker tower 43 aeu pavillion trends 16 womenâ€™s trends 64 shoe trends 24 mens trends beauty 19 read my lips 60 fringe benefits music 66 music in film profile 87 hayley wright 28 inside out 11
How Social Media Will Kill Fashion’s Bottom Line I am sitting in a warehouse in New York as intricately placed incandescent tube lights flicker to life on what was then the Diesel Black Gold Fall 2013 show. The models hit the catwalk in waxed wool and lacquered studded pieces that screamed early 90’s. It wasn’t like anything else I’d seen that season and I knew it was going to be popular. I left thinking that hiring Andreas Melbostad as Diesel Black Gold’s new creative director was a perfect idea and after tweeting madly and Vine-ing the finale, I strutted off to find myself a slim-fitting pair of waxed pants. I went to a number of stores, but ultimately found what I was looking for at H&M. I squeezed into them, tore off the price tickets, paid and wore them out... no questions asked. One thing I noted was how many other obvious fashion enthusiasts were hunting for waxed denim, glossy finished leathers and studded body-con dresses - all in the name of achieving the trends that hit the Diesel runway that very morning. I took the liberty of asking one of the girls (a young fashion blogger) who was buying a leather studded skirt—in the name of market research—where she got the drive to buy such an impractical item from? Her answer... “Diesel Black Gold.” So there we were, literally a half year before the pieces we saw this morning will even hit the shelves, wearing out the trend. And I DID wear out that trend! I wore those pants to World MasterCard Fashion Week in Toronto, I wore those pants to Europe when I went with my family on vacation, I wore those pants to the movies, the club, the after parties. I WORE THOSE PANTS! Six months after the show, the pieces from the collection hit stores. I was excited to check out the clothes in the flesh and there they were. The studded calf skin pants, the fitted dresses, the unforgiving slim knits, all of it was there. But... I was over it. I was tired of the collection pursed under the “New Arrivals” sign.
I’d seen it on every fashionable Instagram account, on every Facebook News Feed and Fanpage that had anything to do with fashion. From Style .com and WWD I relived the show taking notes on styling and how to emulate the looks from the runway; not to mention that the colours, the fabrics, the silhouettes... they were all available and ready to be picked up at a moments notice. All I had to do was go out and buy them at the nearest fast fashion retailer. Not the same as the ready-to-wear collection by a long shot, but conceptually they lacked difference, aesthetically they were more consubstantial than they were contrasting and so I went for it... and so did everybody else. The shows were nearly too accessible with livestream viewing, bloggers blogging on location (like myself) via social media sites like Instagram, Vine and Pinterest; then there were the traditional media sources like: Huffington Post, Vogue and the Telegraph. So not only did you see the shows, you were bombarded with images, gifs and videos of them from HD video to the lowest quality blurred images of models walking down the runway sloppily snapped up by Anna Dello Russo or Bryanboy, from the instant the pic was taken to long after the show had finished. By the time the product is in stores you are overexposed to it. And if there’s something I’ve learned about fashion... it’s that it needs to be needed, it needs demand. Overexposure kills demand. Social media creates a buzz about certain items like the Bambi Givenchy sweater or the Chanel Lego clutch, which we love to love (and love to buy). But aside from the one offs, we are becoming numb to the industry’s seductive pull because every Man Repelling, Blonde Salad, eating, Cupcake and Cashmere, wearing blogger out there is tweeting fashion’s bottom line to DEATH! The solution? Couture darling! The only way to stop the cycle is to go back to basics and invest (heavily) in the building blocks of fashion. By going to the source, we cut out the wait because couture is shown on the runway, sold right after the show, then made for each buyer and finally shipped to their abode.
There is no hype, there is no chance to be “popularized” and more importantly, there is no wait. We have become such a “buy now wear now” society that the only way the fashion industry can keep up is to show their collections closer to the shipping date and by so doing, give stylish people the opportunity to buy the pieces they see on the runway almost instantly. Or the designers could just emulate what Burberry did... Fast forward to the Fall 2014 Burberry Prorsum menswear collection, which showed in early January. The collection was unique in that you could buy the pieces on their ecommerce site right after the collection showed. How inventive and lucrative. This endeavor, though challenging for the tailors at Burberry (constructing the items as the orders come in), was revolutionary in that it afforded customers the opportunity to wear the pieces immediately after they walked the runway. Christopher Bailey and his team should all win medals. This model may have shattered the prestige factor for a great many fashion lovers and will most definitely hinder in-store sales when the Fall 2014 products finally hit stores in June or July, since everyone who REALLY wanted those pieces will have already bought them and worn them to death. It’s better for Burberry if a buyer wears the Burberry Prorsum scarf rather than an extremely similar, slipping under copyright law by a hair “Burrberry” scarf on sale bundled up in a ball, or better yet on the dusty floor of your local Zara. If you love fashion, you will justify the piece, the price and the wait, but what if you didn’t have to wait? With this new model you may not have to, but in the mean time... hold onto your cash and try to wait for the real deal otherwise designer fashion may not make it into the next generation.
Mark St. James Marquis of Fashion www.marquisoffashion.com Mark St. James - Marquis of Fashion - Toronto Fashion Blog
15 15 Burberry
The season’s trends pay homage to classic styles dating back as early as the 1920’s, but updated for some seriously modern wardrobe play. Burberry
The Wide-Leg Trade in your skinnies, there’s a new trouser in town. Popularized by Coco Chanel in the 1920’s, wide-leg pants are making a comeback as one of the most wearable trends this year. Labels BCBG MAXAZRIA, Trina Turk and Alice + Olivia perfected the pant in loud prints, billowy fabrics and high waisted versions to elongate the tricky silhouette. Hermes
Cropped Cher Horowitz would be, like, so stoked to see this 90’s fashion staple dominating spring/summer 2014 runways. This season’s modern crop top has been classed up in well-tailored versions and mature palettes. See 3.1 Phillip Lim’s elegant lavender fabric and BCBG’S boxy white sportswear take on the trend. 16 bcbg
3.1 Philip Lim
Candy Store It’s no surprise sugary sweet pastels are trending for spring, nor Pantone’s “Colour of the Year,” Radiant Orchid. What is surprising are these soft hues matched head to toe as seen on Burberry, Armani and Jason Wu runways—a bold statement that can earn you serious street style points.
3.1 Philip Lim
Great Lengths Characterized by its calf-grazing hemline, Proenza Schouler the midi-skirt dates back to the 1940’s post-war era. Fashion has recycled the style over the years, always staying true to its origins as a sophisticated and elegant piece, à la Grace Kelly. The skirt swished onto runways last spring and is coming back even stronger for 2014. Editor favourites included the playful plaid House of Holland and Marchesa lace pencil midis. Vera Wang
Bombs Away Labels Suka Clothing and Marc by Marc Jacobs are putting a feminine spin on the traditionally sporty bomber jacket with accents like floral sleeves and satin sheen. Paired with a pencil skirt, the garment looks extra chic.
—Janis Galloway 17 Tracy Reese
3.1 Philip Lim
Marc by Marc Jacobs
READ MY LIPS
LISE WATIER Duo Glam Rouge Infini Lipstick Duo in Tender Pink JANE IREDALE Lip Fixation in Craze, Compulsion ELIZABETH ARDEN Beautiful Colour Moisturizing Lipstick in 40 Ultra Violet, 12 Neoclassic Coral, CLARINS PARIS Joli Rouge Brilliant in 20 Coral Tulip, 19 Tropical Pink, 21 Pink Orchid, Gloss Prodige in 11 Coral Tulip
hat’s on everyone’s lips this Spring? Colour! Everything from soft pastels to vivid brights in matte, cream or glossy finishes. No bland beiges this season! Clarins Paris proposes a trio of sheer vivid brights in their Joli Rouge Brilliant line, and a pair of new shades, a bright coral and a new crystal clear (not shown), from the house’s Gloss Prodige line presented in the Opalescence Spring makeup collection. Jane Iredale adds two new shades to her very successful line of Lip Fixation lip stains, playfully named after moods or emotions; this spring, look for a vivid coral named Craze and a mauve plum named Compulsion. Each colour is paired with a delicately shimmered companion gloss. Lise Watier also adds to her lip stain collection with the Duo Glam Rouge Infini, her long wear stain mated with a matching lipstick for a chic sophisticated cream finish. Elizabeth Arden’s new range of Beautiful Colour lipsticks launched in Fall 2013, with two very on trend brights: their Neo Classic Coral and Ultraviolet, both ideal for this season. —James Kershaw Photography: C Side Photography Model: Gaydra R. at PHABRIK model + artist management Makeup/Art Direction: James Kershaw
SWEET CHEEKs One of the easiest ways to brighten your look is with a pop of colour on the cheeks. Cliniqueâ€™s new Cheek Pops, the Gerber daisy embossed blush shown here in three of the four shades available has an innovative formula that begins as a liquid that is then transformed though a slow baking process into a soft powder that imparts long-wearing, silky smooth, sheer vibrant colour. PurMinerals launches two new ways to blush this season: cream and powder formulas, both of which are paraben free and have no fillers or chemical dyes. The cream formula is available in two shades, while the powder is available in four. Clarins Paris launches a new version of their much loved Multi-Blush. Clarins describes their newest cheek enhancer (which may also be used on the lips) as a sensorial cream blush that merges with the skin. This new product, available in four bright yet very natural looking shades, is enriched with plant extracts, mimosa, rose water and jojoba to help maintain optimal hydration. The subtly shimmered Havana Bronzing Powder by Lise Watier delivers that much desired sun kissed glow; this item is also available in a matte finish. Jane Iredale, one of the pioneers in the mineral makeup industry, offers a new shade of the popular In Touch Highlighter, the new Comfort shade. It is a gold shimmered pink and is a perfect companion product to her In Touch cream blush sticks. â€”James Kershaw
PURMINERALS Pressed Powder Blush in Savvy CLARINS Multi-Blush in Grenadine, Rosewood, Peach JANE IREDALE In Touch Highlighter in Comfort LISE WATIER Limited Edition Imagine Mosaic Powder Blush, Havana Bronzing Powder CLINIQUE Cheek Pop in Plum, Peach, Berry Photography: CSide Photography Makeup + Art Direction: James Kershaw Model: Rachel at PHABRIK artist + model management
EASY ON THE EYES
ome of the planet’s most forward fashion houses, such as Dior, Chanel, Prada and Lanvin, as well as Versace, in their spring ad campaigns with Lady GaGa, are showing models wearing the lightest, freshest eye makeup seen in years. Soft pastels or shimmering metallics are swept across lids, often alone or subtly embellished with a flick of liner and mascara. Cosmetic houses this season seem to have an “easy on the eyes’’ attitude. Lise Watier’s Imagine eye shadow quad is a mix of cool and warm shades with a soft pearlized finish inspired by the sky. Clarins’ Vibrant Light Mineral Palette blends cool lilac and violet with soft grey and a shimmering silver highlighter, while Jane Iredale’s new aptly named Golden Girl trio is a blend of soft warm metallics that may be accentuated with her new gel liner in brown. —James Kershaw
ELIZABETH ARDEN NEW YORK Limited Edition Pure Finish Cream Eye Shadow in Overboard, Sand Dollar, LISE WATIER Limited Edition Quatuor Imagine Eyeshadow Quartet, JANE IREDALE Gel Eyeliner in Brown (also available in Black), Angle Eyeliner Brush, CLARINS PARIS Limited Edition 12 Vibrant Light Eye Quartet Mineral Palette, JANE IREDALE Pure Pressed Eye Shadow Trio in Golden Girl
Photography: C Side Photography Models: Grace, Lauren at PHABRIK model + artist management Makeup/Art Direction: James Kershaw 23 23
It’s all about bold pattern and colour this season and men are asked to go big or go home. Modern camouflage, vibrant florals and pristine white are must-haves for spring and summer.
Short StorIES Suiting just got turned on its head. Voluminous Bermuda shorts were the new match to well tailored blazers on the runways of Jill Sander, Fendi Balenciaga and other heavy hitters, making short suits one of the most controversial trends this year. We’re not certain men will take this look into the boardroom, but hope to see the more daring fashionistos try it off-duty. Fendi
3.1 Phillip Lim
24 Diesel black gold
There was major white noise happening on the runways of Vivienne Westwood, Comme des Garcons and Louis Vuitton. All-white suiting is a tricky look to pull off; the secret is to mix textures and fabrics to ensure you don’t look like you just walked off a cruise ship. Try silk with linen, or cotton with wool.
Comme des Garcons
Camo-Chameleon Just when you thought it was safe to come out, the camo trend is sighted again. The print first returned in 2012 and keeps popping up in major collections from Valentino to Dries Van Noten to super hip Ami. It’s been updated in flashy colours and slightly altered patterns to keep it looking fresh. You’ve got your marching orders, now go forth and be fashionable. Dries Van Noten
Hit the Clutch Men’s bags are nothing new, but this season we saw an evolution from structured leather bags to what would be traditionally considered more feminine, soft clutches.
Vera Wang 3.1 Phillip Lim
3.1 Phillip Lim
Embracing florals might have been the most consistent command from the spring/summer 2014 shows. Prada and 3.1 Philip Lim were favourites in executing the print with interesting, kaleidoscope patterns and beautifully contrasted colours. If you’re not ready to go full bloom, try incorporating florals into the details with a patterned tie, pocket 25 scarf or a button-up layered under a blazer.
Each season, fragrance houses launch new scents to entice the consumer, and this season is no different. All new scents exciting are new versions of top sellers, and this year, a rediscovered one enters the marketplace. Calyx, originally debuted in 1986 as a fragrance for Prescriptives, a cosmetic line in the Estee Lauder portfolio that has since been discontinued. The scent, which will now live on now as Clinique Calyx, was quite the departure in the mid 80’s when fragrances were anything but subtle and fresh. The name comes from the term used for the protective covering of a flower bud, the green leaves that wrap around the petals before they bloom. Top notes include grapefruit, guava, green leaf and mango; heart notes include freesia and neroli, finishing with notes of oakmoss, orris and vetiver. The house of Burberry launches Burberry Brit Rhythm for Her, the companion scent to their very successful men’s version that launched last fall, housed in a clear glass flacon of the same design. The scent, described as sensuous, feminine and irreverent, is a powdery floral with notes of English lavender and pink peppercorn, warming to notes of orange flower and blackberry leaves, finishing with vetiver and vibrant woods. Calvin Klein adds another version of the house’s very successful line of Euphoria scents. Endless Euphoria was created as the daytime counterpart of the first. The scent opens with notes of mandarin and cherry blossom with uplifting violet at the heart and finishes with sensual bamboo and bare musk accord. Another house adding to their collection of fragrances is Marc Jacobs, this time with a pair of limited edition scents. Daisy Marc Jacobs Delight is described as a luminous bouquet of fresh picked florals with a burst of quince flower, and iris with crisp red apple, sun-ripened woods and musk. Daisy Eau So Fresh Delight is a twist on the original, combining blood orange with exotic tiare Tahiti, raspberry and apricot leaves. Both scents are housed in the now iconic chunky glass bottle topped with a bouquet of brilliantly coloured daisies. The venerable house of Elizabeth Arden adds to their portfolio of Green Tea scents with Yuzu. The scent blends yuzu zest with green tea vapors, lemon tree petitgrain, spearmint and wild thyme that warms to notes of white birch and ambrette seed. Bottega Veneta debuts Essence Aromatique, described by the Italian fashion and fragrance house as “a perfect balance between fresh aromatic and lasting character.” It is a reinvention of the cologne combining precious essences bergamot, coriander, patchouli, rose absolute and sandalwood, housed in a simple, chic frosted glass bottle. Juicy Couture Malibu embodies the attitude of free spirited California girls combining watermelon, black currant and pink passion fruit merging with sparkling jasmine petals and frangipani, drying down to creamy musk and precious woods. Couture La La channels the cool, sunkissed L.A. girl with sparking mandarin, red currant and wet flower petals, warming to middle notes of orange blossom and white peony, finishing with base notes of white musk and blond woods with a hint of pink sugar crystals. Both scents are housed in chunky glass bottles embellished with painted swaying palms, topped with faceted caps adorned with neon bright coloured heart charms. —James Kershaw 26 26
BOTTEGA VENETA Essence Aromatique Eau de Cologne, MARC JACOBS Limited Edition Daisy Eau So Fresh, Limited Edition Daisy Delight EDT, ELIZABETH ARDEN Green Tea Yuzu EDT, BURBERRY Brit Rhythm for Her EDT, CALVIN KLIEN Endless Euphoria EDP, CLINIQUE Calyx Exhilarating Fragrance, JUICY COUTURE Couture La La Malibu Collection, JUICY COUTURE Malibu EDT
Photography: C Side Photography Model: Lauren at PHABRIK model + artist management
Designer Profile Picture this: You pull into work ready to start your day, reach into your pocket to check your cell phone…and it’s not there. What do you do? Panic? Go through your day feeling like you’ve lost a limb, not knowing if someone is trying to reach you? Emerging designer Zebina Masse explores this attachment we as a society have to our electronic devices in her latest collection: a thesis project that explores the outward, tangible expression of the human soul. “I imagine our souls as being housed in our electronics,” said Masse. “It’s like a part of us is living in that object and when we’re separated from it, we almost feel physical pain from it.” Masse is an Apparel Design major in her final year at the Rhode Island School of Design (RISD). Interestingly, Masse didn’t always know she was going to pursue fashion. Prior to RISD, she received an associates degree in liberal arts with a concentration in visual arts from Cape Cod Community College. It was there that personality tests kept pointing her in one of two directions: a math teacher or an artist. While technically good at math, art was a path that “just made sense” for Masse. “I was always one of those weird, quirky, artistic types,” she said. “I’ve been making clothes since I was pretty young, just as a hobby.” Well, that hobby is starting to turn some heads. For her final thesis project, Masse is creating a collection of six looks with matching handmade shoes that keep with her clean aesthetic. The
looks feature lots of natural, nude colours and a combination of delicate knit-work and resin. “I let the knitting machine guide me,” said Masse, who prefers to be hands-on in her design process. “I don’t like to just concoct things in my head. I like to work with materials; I’m very moved by fabrics.” The collection is inspired by the book His Dark Materials, particularly the concept that people’s souls are housed inside animal demons that morph with them as they grow older and change and eventually mature. “I really love animals, and I love the idea that you have this animal character that’s connected to you so strongly like that,” explained Masse. “I love the idea that the soul is housed outside of the body too.” Masse built on that core concept, exploring the idea that our souls “live” in our electronic devices. The resin in her pieces—a synthetic material—represents that digital and plastic place our soul resides in the digital world. “When we lose our phones, it’s almost painful,” she said. “I saw these intense connections to my concept.” For more work from Zebina Masse, visit her website at zebinamasse.squarespace. com.
—Pamela Di Pinto
Photography: Haley Ballard @ www.mbreps.com Photo Assistant: Shanti Knight Designer: Zebinah Masse Stylist: Caterina Cardinali @ www.mbreps.com Hair: Kabuto Okuzawa Hair: EZEL for SASCHAJUAN @ www.mbreps.com Makeup: Yuko Mizuno @ www.ronarepresents.com Location: Brooklyn, NY
The Armani Group announced their first residential project in China. They have partnered with the Mind Group to develop a luxury residential project in Chengdu in southwest China. Known as “Art Residence,” the development will be located near the city’s fashionable Jinjiang district and is scheduled to be completed by the end of 2016. The project will comprise of two 65-story towers with apartments and common areas designed by the Armani/Casa Interior Design Studio, the division also responsible for other Armani residential ventures such as the Maçka Residences in Istanbul, the World Towers in Mumbai and the Century Spire in Manila. — João Paulo Nunes
30 Images courtesy of the Armani Group
World Towers in Mumbai The World Towers in Mumbai
Walker Tower in New York Sparkles Once Again as an Art Deco Gem
The Walker Tower is one of the most significant examples of Art Deco architecture in New York City. Inaugurated in 1929, it has reopened after extensive restoration by architecture firm CetraRuddy for developers Property Markets Group and JDS Development Group. Located in Chelsea at 18th Street and Seventh Avenue, the 24 storey building, named after its architect Ralph Walker, has been attracting the attention of celebrities. Actresses Cameron Diaz and Blake Lively, have shown interest in its ample 47 apartments with 14-foot ceilings, two-foot thick floors, underfloor heating and bedrooms of unusually large proportions for New York City. Some of the residences in the Walker Tower allow 360-degree views of the Manhattan harbour, and more than half have private terraces. Amenities for residents include a 24-hour doorman, concierge, library lounge with bar, children’s playroom, fitness centre, sauna and a common decked roof terrace. —João Paulo Nunes
LUXX READY TO WEAR
Styling Hair with Carl Reeves: The Kevin Murphy Session Master The haircare industry values professional training and takes education very seriously. Learning new skills and gaining experience are essential to perfecting the quality of hairstyles and maintaining an edge in the business. Thereâ€™s no one else that understands this more than well-known session stylist, Carl Reeves, who was in town working with the Davines Session Team on an editorial shoot. His unbridled passion, dynamic creativity and extensive knowledge in the industry were a welcoming inspiration. The opportunity to style hair alongside Carl Reeves proved to be an exciting, invaluable experience that the Davines Session Team will surely never forget. â€”Teresa Simmons
Volume Location: PHABRIK art+design Canada Accessories: PHABRIK Photography: Grant Olson Photo Editing: Derek Jagodzinsky Clothing: Kelly Madden Set/Styling: Sandra Sing Fernandes Makeup: Jenn Vatour Hair:36Davines Sesson Team Julian, Nicole, Jami, Tara-Lynn, Emma, Jody, Chantal, Muffin
Foster + Partners design UAE pavilion for 2015 Milan Expo Architectural practice Foster + Partners have unveiled designs for the United Arab Emirates pavilion for the 2015 Milan Expo. The proposal applies vernacular planning principles used in traditional desert cities. There are self-shaded pedestrian streets made from 12-metre-high walls that occupy the 140-metre site in a series of parallel waves that also evoke sand dunes. In addition, the pavilion responds to the 2015 Milan Expo’s theme of ‘feeding the planet’ by featuring a variety of dining options featuring modern Emirati food. —João Paulo Nunes
42 42 42
Images courtesy of Foster + Partners43
Reflections: Design That Expands and Renews Because of modern building techniques and population growth, it is common to see new buildings sprouting up in record time. However, buildings that we pass by everyday have great potential to reshape their communities. With creative design, designers and architects can breathe new life into existing spaces. In 2010, LA-based design and fabrication studio BallNogues set out to give a facelift to a parking structure located in pedestrian- and traffic-heavy Santa Monica Place. Measuring 39 feet wide and 35 feet high, Cradle’s structural design evokes its namesake, Newton’s Cradle, an iconic model demonstrating the conservation of motion and energy, frequently displayed as a desk ornament. 44
Ball-Nogues’ installation works as a whole: each of its many metal spheres relying on gravity and surrounding spheres to stay in place. The organic structure creates a funhouse mirror effect on the space around it and the polished spheres create distorted reflections of the bustling city and people passing by. The installation is mounted on a building with a proud pedigree of its own—Frank Gehry designed the parking structure in the late 70s, early 80s. The soft ripple of Cradle’s dimensions complements the linear elements of Gehry’s structure.
and in 2005, the city held an architectural competition for the design of a new facility. The winning design, by Randall Stout, enveloped the old building instead of suggesting a completely new build. His plans maintained portions of the old structure and added upon it extensively. The design initially received polarizing views since it was a vast departure from the relatively conservative architecture present in the city; the design’s undulating metal façade mixed with angular windows intended to evoke the city’s river and the Aurora Borealis.
The Edmonton Art Gallery was originally a modest brick building in the Brutalist style located beside Churchill Square in the Arts District of the city’s downtown core. As the city matured, the gallery outgrew its space,
Renamed the Art Gallery of Alberta (AGA), the space blossomed to 85,000 square feet, with nearly twice the exhibition space, a 150-seat theatre, and dedicated gallery space for the permanent collection.
Despite mixed opinions during the building process, the AGA has flourished in its new space, with approximately 30,000 visitors in the first six weeks after its reopening. Now, the art gallery is an iconic part of the city’s architectural identity and is host to a great variety of cultural events and programs. These two structures, an art installation and an extensive expansion, artfully show the effectiveness of recreating a public space. By revamping existing structures with modern design elements, these spaces merge function with artistry and provide unique reflections of the space they inhabit. —Danielle S. Fuechtmann
45 Photography: Ian Grant
Vivienne Westwood Autumn/Winter 2014 Menswear For her Autumn/Winter 2014 menswear collection, British fashion designer Vivienne Westwood turned once more to Earth for inspiration. However, instead of delving deeply and closely into the environmental issues that have preoccupied her lately, Westwood looked at the bigger picture by studying the Earth from space before paying closer attention to its ethnic and cultural manifestations throughout history. The influence of science fiction and of 1970s pop culture futurism pervaded the collection in the form of geometric shapes, symbols and patterns, as well as in coated and plasticised fabrics where a predominant colour palette of black, grey and burgundy was accentuated by dashes of white, red and gold. Similarly, contrasting images of masculinity as constructed through sartorial and cultural embodiments of the past couple of centuries were brought together in the juxtaposition of a nuanced biker aesthetic with sportswear, urban subcultures and a reinterpretation of suave dandyism. To illustrate the fusion of influences, leather trousers and jackets with embossed patterns were aligned with track suits, bomber jackets and hoodies. Lace-trimmed garments, bow ties and turtle necks coexisted with trench coats and layered outerwear. In addition, Vivienne Westwood trademark bulbous silhouettes were engendered by combining asymmetrically fastened coats and trousers with wide pleated pants and shorts that came in tightly belted or tapered versions. â€”JoĂŁo Paulo Nunes
PRINT WORTHY Photography: studio-e.ca Art Direction/Styling: Sandra Sing Fernandes Makeup: James Kershaw Hair: Kelly Bula Model: Anika at Mode Models
LOVE MOSCHINO t-shirt LA MAISON SIMONS sculpted headpiece, lace socks PHILLIP LIM laser cut shorts, 49 printed purse CONVERSE laced boots
CLOVER CANYON striped dress IOSSELLIANI tribal necklace 51 STUART WEITZMAN shoes 51
KENZO silk dress MISSONI head band TOTOBORELLO gold earrings 52
DENIS GAGNON zipper bustier and pleated skirt MDMEUTO bracelet earrings MICHAEL KORS shoes 53
MARY KATRANTZOU dress HOLT RENFREW hat PHABRIK SANDRA SING FERNANDES bracelet Shoes at PHABRIK art + design 54
LOVE MOSCHINO print dress SCALA PRONTO paperbraid fedora SANDRA SING FERNANDES carved wood bracelet NAT & MAT printed wallet ALDO multi-strap shoe 55
MANISH ARORA bold print dress HOLT RENFREW hat PHABRIK art+ design clutch SANDRA SING FERNANDES rings BEBE suede heels
Photography/Digital Art studio-e.ca Model Lauren at PHABRIK model + artist management Art Direction James Kershaw
ELIZABETH ARDEN NEW YORK Limited Edition Ocean Blue Beautiful Colour Lash Enhancing Mascara, CLARINS PARIS Be Long Mascara Length + Curve, LISE WATIER Dramatique Lash Booster Mascara, CLINIQUE Lash Power Feathering Mascara, ELIZABETH ARDEN NEW YORK PREVAGE Clinical Lash + Brow Enhancing Serum False Lashes in circle LISE WATIER False Lashes, ARDELL Natural Demi Wispies, ARDELL Professional Double Up #203
ach season, cosmetic houses launch new items in an attempt to fulfill everyone’s desire to find their ideal lash enhancing product. This season is no exception. Elizabeth Arden Prevage Clinical Lash + Brow Enhancing Serum contains a triple peptide complex that claims to support the lash’s natural renewal cycle to promote lush, healthy revitalized lashes when applied daily. Many houses offer a variety of mascaras that contain lash enhancing ingredients. Lise Watier’s Dramatique Lash Booster Mascara utilizes the benefits of apple staminal cell derivatives to strengthen and regenerate the eyelash structure to achieve faster growth, while Clarins’ Be Long Mascara contains a complex of matrikine, a peptide to stimulate lash growth combined with panthenol for strength. Elizabeth Arden’s Beautiful Colour Lash Enhancing Mascara is also peptide rich and claims an increase in lash volume and density. The formula instantly lengthens, curls and colours the lashes and is available in a limited edition pearlized brilliant blue this season. Clinique’s Lash Power Feathering Mascara offers an innovative formula with an advanced thermal technology initially developed for humid Asian environments that is resistant to tears, rain, perspiration, chlorinated and salt water. However, it is still able to be removed with warm water (39°C/103F). The mascara utilizes the benefits of Pullulan, a polysaccharide with a honey-like consistency to help stretch lashes during application. Temporary false lashes such as the examples from Lise Watier and Ardell are a tried and true standby for those seeking lush voluminous lashes on a temporary basis. —James Kershaw
Photography/Digital Art C Side Photography
Photography/Digital Art Studio-e.ca Model Kelesy at PHABRIK model + artist management Art Direction James Kershaw
successful makeup application depends on having a smooth even base on which colour is applied. Cosmetics applied on a properly primed complexion will have greater longevity. Lise Watier’s Base Miracle, available in two formulas, one for normal/dry and one for combination/oily skins, decreases the appearance of fine lines and pores. It also imparts a soft matte finish and prepares the skin for a perfect makeup application. Her Luminous Correcting Primer adds a glow while colour correcting, Banane (shown) illuminates and helps correct moderate redness, and Rose Lilas corrects a sallow skin. Abricot restores a healthy glow and Vert neutralizes ruddiness and blotchiness. Both products may be mixed together to form a custom blend ideal for the particular needs of the skin. Clarins Paris, famous for their Instant Smooth Perfecting Touch primer, launches Instant Light Radiance Boosting Complexion Base. This new product restores vitality and radiance, while correcting small imperfections. The complexion base contains katafray bark extract, which encourages the skin’s natural hydration mechanisms, and white tea to aid the skin’s defense from pollution and environmental aggressions. Radiance Boosting Base is available in three tones: 01 Rose, which adds radiance to all skins, 02 Champagne, which reduces redness, and 03 Peach, which adds adds warmth and radiance to deeper skin tones. 60
Clinique debuts their new CC Cream Compact SPF25, an alternative to liquid CC creams. This product corrects and reflects light to neutralize perfections and hydrate the skin. Once the complexion has been primed for makeup, the next very important step for those wearing foundation is, of course, to chose the correct finish and colour. Clarins launches four new global shades to their Skin Illusion SPF10 Natural Radiance Foundation line. The house launches, as they do each season, a limited edition face compact. The Opalescence compact has an ultra-fine, soft powder texture that illuminates and matifies with a lightweight finish. Elizabeth Arden New York introduces Flawless Finish Perfectly Nude Liquid Makeup SPF15 with hydro-pigment technology. Pigments are enveloped with moisture rich, plant based emollient that mimic the skin’s flexibility and smoothness, providing a lightweight, colour true, long lasting, flawless finish. The company’s new Flawless Finish Correcting + Highlighting pen is the ideal companion; this item erases signs of fatigue, restores radiance and masks imperfections, dark circles, blemishes and ruddiness.
All Bases covered
Photography/Digital Art C Side Photography
CLARINS PARIS Instant Light Radiance Boosting Complexion Base 02 Champagne, (01 Rose, 03 Peach shown as droplets) Clinique CC Cream Compact SPF 25 Hydrating Colour Corrector in Light Medium, CLARINS PARIS Skin Illusion Natural Radiance Foundation SPF10 in Coffee #116.5 ( Porcelain, Cappuccino, Hazelnut shown as droplets) ELIZABETH ARDEN NEW YORK Flawless Finish Perfectly Nude Liquid Makeup SPF15 Vanilla Shell 03, CLARINS PARIS Limited Edition Opalescence Compact, ELIZABETH ARDEN NEW YORK Flawless Finish Correcting + Highlighting Perfector #1, 61 LISE WATIER Pore Minimizing Primer, (also shown Luminous Correcting Primer in Banane as droplets)
SCENT OF A MAN Two of the hottest men’s scents for Spring 2014 are of European and North American origin. John Varvatos, one of the most prolific American designers, adds to his portfolio of best selling men’s fragrances with the launch of the limited edition Artisan Acqua. This invigorating citrus blend has accents of spices and herbs that create a unique woody aroma. The fragrance is the third in the Artisan series following the original Artisan and Artisan Black. The fragrance opens with notes of tangelo, mandarin and angelica root developing to heart notes of clary sage, coriander, basil, geranium and jasmine sambac, and finishes with notes of moss, patchouli and fir balsam. The second fragrance from the house of Mont Blanc is the new Mont Blanc Emblem which debuts in May. Described as a fresh woody aromatic scent with top notes of clary sage, cardamom and sparkling grapefruit, the scent warms to notes of violet leaves and cinnamon, finishing with notes of precious woods and tonka beans. Prada adds another scent to their growing collection of men’s fragrances with the new Luna Rossa Extreme, a new version of their uber successful Luna Rossa launched in 2012. The fragrance is named after the house’s sailing vessel/ team that competes in the America’s Cup race. This new interpretation, blended by perfumer Daniela Andrier under the creative direction of Miuccia Prada, is housed in a Yves Behar designed black glass bottle with a jet black carapace cut with vertical apertures. The fragrance opens with bergamot from Italy and it invigorates the black pepper and activates fresh lavender notes, warming to notes of leathery labdanum and juniper berries, m aturing to notes of intense lavender absolute and rich vanilla. —James Kershaw
Mont Blanc Emblem EDT (in stores May) John Varvatos Artisan Acqua EDT Prada Luna Rossa Extreme EDP
Photography Grant Olson Model Ross L. at PHABRIK model + artist management
TOTALLY SOLED OUT Rockabilly fans can hoot n’ holler as the pointy toed, buckled shoe reappeared on the runways. Animal, floral and even oh so-feminine lace prints strode down this season’s catwalks. The gladiator sandal, now considered a summer staple, made its presence known in many presentations. Materials ran the gamut from classic leather, both smooth and embossed, to suede. to translucent plastic, in the form of t-strap sandals at John Galliano. James Kershaw Nahla Watfa
Gladiatorial Games: the gladiator sandal with laces or buckles 63
B - master
WELL HEELED Designers turned to elegant styles of yore; ladylike, slim heeled slingbacks and pointy toe pumps all made a comeback this season. Platform soles were not in the forefront as in seasons past, although they are still around, often in the form of the wedge heel. Bright jewel tones made a statement, as did girly embellishments such as bows and ruffles. James Kershaw Nahla Watfa
Peeptoe Booties: This popular
style came in a variety of materials from athletic inspired perforated fabrics to suede and even astro turf.
Singing the Blues: One
of the seasonâ€™s hottest hues, cobalt blue showed up on a variety of styles. 64 64
Herve Leger Armani
Heavy Metal: This season designers sent models walking the catwalk sporting footwear with metal heel treatments that would look right at home in a handymanâ€™s toolkit.
Frill Seekers: Ruffles added a touch of femininity to the seasonâ€™s strappy sandals.
Leather and Laces: Updated version of the gladiator this time with vertiginous heels.
Slingbacks: The classic, feminine slingback made a triumphant return to the runways this Spring.
Wedged In: The chunky wedge
heel, a perennial fave of designers showed up,this season in bright hues, treaded soles, buckles and bows.
NATURAL ELEMENTS Photography Kelly Rosborough Styling for Derks Formals Jon Harmon, Sterling Derk, Sean McClure Architecture and DĂŠcor Sandra Sing Fernandes 66 Model Max M. Mode Models
STANLEY CARROLL shirt and pants
GOORIN BRO hat 67 NEUW art shirt ZANEROBE pants SPALWART runners
TIGER OF SWEDEN shirt SAND jacket and pants ANDERSON belt J.LINDEBERG shoes
NEUW dot shirt ZANEROBE pants 69 SPALWART runners
STANLEY CARROLL shirt models own denim
I AM WITHOUT PREJUDICE REDA suit SAND shirt and tie 71 J.LINDEBERG shoes
India is traced with an intricate lace-work pattern of roadways that cover 3,516,452 km (2009). Essential to the growth and survival of rural areas, these roadways provide a link between villages or small farming communities and booming metropolitan centres. However, despite the importance of roads and land transportation, India largely lacks consistent driving regulations and road upkeep. Without regulations and funding, roads are very rough and narrow, major highways are only two lanes, and a significant part of the rural population does not have access to all-weather roads. Even so, travelling around India can be a very enjoyable and exciting thing to do. Public transportation, particularly India’s fast and efficient bus and train systems, is a very popular way to travel, especially through mountain regions inaccessible to car or motorcycle. Buses offer a fast and inexpensive way to travel, even taking regular stops for passengers to go to the washroom or get a snack. Some drivers do take riskier maneuvers though, particularly on quieter night routes, so it’s wise to travel during the day if possible. You can book tickets on state-run buses up to a month in advance, but it’s advised to nab a seat in between the axles to minimize bumping and shaking due to road conditions. India’s train system is an exciting way to travel, following extensive routes though the beautiful country. With approximately 17 million passengers travelling by train every day, in addition to freight, the Indian Railways is one of the world’s largest employers. The railways are always bustling, but the system is thoughtfully designed and quite efficient.
Although less common now because of the dominance of motorized vehicles, traditional rickshaws and other carts, sometimes pulled by animals, can still be found in quieter roadways and communities. Practical and simple, this long-standing way of travel makes up for speed with its endurance and the opportunity it gives to truly recognize the beauty and warmth of the country. Autorickshaws and their variations, the vikram or tempo, marry the traditional rickshaw with a motor, a hybrid able to carry more passengers and achieve greater speed. India is a bustling country; whether you are riding a train, zipping through the streets, or chugging along on an autorickshaw, the vibrant web of transportation provides a lovely window into the daily life and customs of different regions. While moving from place to place can be made more calming with a book and earplugs, taking the time to observe can show little snapshots into the daily life of someone else. —Danielle S. Fuechtmann
While renting cars and hiring drivers is quite common, particularly in metropolitan areas, more flexible forms of transportation are often more well-adapted to India’s roadways. Bicycles and motorcycles are very popular forms of independent transportation, as they are nimble enough to dart through the congested roads and avoid rough patches. It’s a common sight to see several members of a family riding together on a motorcycle, as well as tourists taking advantage of this flexible form of travel. In response to the popularity of cycles, bicycles and motorized, parts and other related services can be easily found throughout the country.
Photography: Javier Ortega
The outdoor temporary arts festival is a relatively new trend in the presentation of art across Canada, but it’s not a new concept. Since 1986, The Works International Visual Arts Society has produced The Works Art & Design Festival in Edmonton, Alberta, offering over 250 exhibits, performances, and special events to the public, and attracting artists and patrons from around the world. At the start of every summer, The Works boosts the energy and imagination of downtown Edmonton by showcasing cutting-edge design, fashion, media, art and interactive installations alongside traditional visual arts such as glass, painting, drawing and photography. Artwork can be found in hotel lobbies, commercial spaces, office towers and public buildings, as well as larger than life installations outdoors on Sir Winston Churchill Square. The Works also partners with local galleries and interdisciplinary arts presenters to bring focus to the city’s year round art scene at a time when over 300,000 patrons from all walks of life are excited about art and design. Here are the top 5 reasons that you should visit The Works this summer: It’s all there: the artwork ranges from traditional to interactive and immersive. The Works offers culturally diverse programming including contemporary indigenous artists in The Works Canadian Aboriginal Artist program. The Works’ main festival site has a multidisciplinary Street Stage, with ten hours of programming every day and an all ages licenced patio to sit and enjoy a variety of performances in between exhibits. Site #1 also features a market of Canadian made arts and crafts, culinary offerings from local restaurants and food trucks, and opportunities to create artworks for new and experienced artists of all ages. You will learn something: The Works integrates Education into everything it does, from the trained exhibit attendants and tour guides offering insights, to the artwork on display, to the opportunities to try your hand at a new arts technique.
Each Spring, students and emerging artists from across Canada compete to participate in the Works to Work Program, one of the Enbridge art internships offered at The Works. In Works to Work, students learn the practical and theoretical aspects of arts presentation and administration, and then return the following summer to learn more and participate in teaching new recruits. This is the team that works alongside the presenting artists to bring the festival to life every June. It fits with your life and vacation plans: The Works is thirteen full days of free outdoor presentations and entertainment. All of the exhibits are on display for at least this length of time, with many holdover exhibits extended through the summer! With a bit of planning, you’ll have plenty of opportunities to see them all. It’s great for creatives: whether you are a professional designer, an emerging artist starting a studio practice, or a hobbyist looking for a new project, you can take advantage of meet the artist opportunities, volunteer with artists on site, see something new, and meet with other creative visitors to inspire your own work. The Works is the perfect opportunity to get out of the studio and collaborate with the public as a presenter, test out an idea, or make connections with people in your own and neighbouring disciplines. Did we mention it’s totally free? The Works runs a pay what you can donation program to support education programs and the continued accessible presentation of art and design in public. You’ll find opportunities to donate at exhibits with interpretive attendants, as well as on the main festival site, and no one is turned away from the public stage presentations, indoor or outdoor performances, exhibits, and even scheduled tours. With that, there’s almost no reason not to go, so plan ahead at www.theworks.ab.ca and add Edmonton and The Works to your summer festival schedule.
Music in Film Watching the bustling intensity of the film award season as it came to a close with the Oscars on March 2nd left me in a reflective state. The films that stick out in my mind as gripping and moving have always incorporated strong, standout scores to support the storytelling process and impact the audience’s senses, heightening the experience. Regardless of the genre, a well-crafted, cohesive film score brings deeper dimension and feeling to each scene, and gives the audience a fuller understanding of the tone of the film. Danny Elfman, Alexandre Desplat, John Williams, James Newton Howard and James Horner are a few of the big names that come to mind when we talk about film music composers. A common theme we find amongst these composers is the great breadth and diverse involvement they’ve had with music over the course of their careers. Many of “The Greats” are multi-instrumentalists, producers, orchestrators or conductors, and often more than one. They’ve had the opportunity to experience music in various ways: listening, creating and arranging. This profound understanding of music and exposure to it in different forums is paramount to composing moving music that will coalesce with a scene. Think of the ominous and thunderous nature of “The Imperial March” in Star Wars. If John Williams was tasked to compose a piece of music to strike fear in the hearts of men (and aliens), I’d say he certainly succeeded. Three soundtracks that find their way into my rotation frequently are Amélie, Pan’s Labyrinth, and About a Boy. 76
Amélie There is much to love about Jean-Pierre Jeunet’s 2001 release, Amélie. The sweetness of this film lies in the depiction of life in the Montmartre arrondissement, Amélie’s imaginative and whimsical nature, and of course, the fantastical compositions of Yann Tiersen. The Amélie soundtrack is comprised of accordion and piano rich instrumental pieces that capture the eccentricity and loneliness that is Amélie Poulain. The closing scene of this film, which is one of my favourites, is a great example of music and imagery working in tandem to convey a feeling.
We see Amélie and Nino, two endearing misfits, riding through the streets of Paris, carefree and totally in love to “La Valse D’ Amélie.” For the viewer, there is feeling of relief when Amélie and Nino finally get together. Amélie’s ultimate display of courage to let love into her life is a triumph for her that is fervently felt by the audience. “La Valse D’ Amélie,” with its playful yet romantic accordion melody, contributes to these emotions of triumph and freedom, not only for Amélie and Nino, but also for many of the film’s characters that have overcome hurdles of their own. It is actually somewhat reminiscent of “J’y Suis Jamais Allé,” which plays during the opening scene.
This lighthearted but sassy piece is immediately switched to “La Dispute,” a sad, foreboding piano instrumental for the opening credits. In this way, we are introduced to the multi-dimensional nature of the film within the first five minutes. In 2013 it was announced that Amélie will be made into a Broadway musical. However, Tiersen’s music will not feature in the adaptation.
tion from the audience. I recall leaving the movie theater completely awestruck. Years later, listening to just a few seconds of any track on the soundtrack instantly brings into mind the same harrowing emotions and images as if I had just seen it.
Pan’s Labyrinth Guillermo del Toro’s Pan’s Labyrinth takes place in a tumultuous post-Civil War Spain and spirals between a dark, bleak reality and an even darker world of fantasy. There are a multitude of happenings and moods conjured up by this tale: the malevolence that marks this era, the cruelty and callus of Captain Vidal, and the spirit and bravery of the rebels and little Ofelia. Javier Navarette, who also composed the score for Guillermo del Toro’s earlier film The Devil’s Backbone, creates a haunting yet magical musical backdrop for the film. Writing a score to mirror a film with this much juxtaposition is likely no easy feat. There is the contrast between the innocence and determination of young Ofelia and her sinister but equally driven stepfather Captain Vidal. There is also this fantastical dark fairytale imagery, coupled with the captain’s macabre killings. Navarette’s score achieves this balance between the wonderful and the sad by employing a wide range of stringed instruments and the chilling hum in the lullaby “Long, Long Time Ago,” probably the most recognizable piece on the Oscar-nominated soundtrack. Through the storyline and graphic imagery, the film naturally evokes a lot of emo-
About a Boy The UK’s Damon Gough, better known as Badly Drawn Boy, had already experience a great deal of success prior to scoring the film adaptation of Nick Hornby’s novel About a Boy. The original sound of his 2000 album The Hour of Bewilderbeast, an eclectic collection of indie, folk and experimental songs, garnered Gough a lot of attention and an expanding fan base, which included directors and brothers Chris and Paul Weitz. About a Boy centers around the development of a friendship between a very unlikely pair: Will, a seemingly selfabsorbed and emotionally detached man who lives a life of leisure as he collects royalties from a popular song his father wrote, and Marcus, a quirky delight of a boy who contends with bullies at school and copes with a depressed mother at home. While there is a strong comedic presence in the film, there is also an awareness of the seriousness of the issues that Will, Marcus and his mother Fiona are
facing. Each of the characters has this lovable peculiarity and it was important for the accompanying music to reflect this. Badly Drawn Boy’s score captures the beauty and friction involved in the burgeoning friendship, off center characters and events. The soundtrack is a mixture of dreamy instrumentals and songs that are more similar to the composer’s style found in his other works that feature his modest husky vocals. One of the most notable scenes is when Marcus’ mother Fiona returns home from the hospital after a suicide attempt. Observing her first interaction with her son after the tragedy and seeing her faced with readjusting to life, “A Minor Incident” plays and as the only real audio in the scene, is absolutely touching. You can just feel the fear and suffering; the lyrical content is spot on.
There’s nothing I could say To make you try to feel ok And nothing you could do To stop me feeling the way I do And if the chance should happen That I never see you agai Just remember that I’ll always love you —“A Minor Incident,” first verse, by Badly Drawn Boy A good film score will provide accompaniment and an enjoyable background. Great and unforgettable scores intensify tone, emotion and imagery, as well as illuminate each scene’s narrative. Those are the ones that stick with you long after the ending credits have rolled off screen. —Stacey Mullings
Twenty-four year old Hayley Wright has a unique goal: to bring back the frequently ignored and forgotten art of fashion illustration. Trained in fine arts at the University of British Columbia and holding a diploma in Fashion Marketing and Merchandising from Vancouver’s Visual College of Art and Design, she’s doing a stunning job. A clear vision is apparent from her artwork; her signature use of ink and watercolours tie her range of work together. Hayley’s fashion illustration strikes a charming balance between capturing detail and concept, and expressing fluid movement and emotion. The subjects of Hayley’s artwork seem like they would be the charismatic cool girls working the room; with cheeky pouting faces and impeccable outfits, they ooze confidence from the paper. As she builds a stunning portfolio, selling prints and other interpretations of her art online on Society6 and independently as Paper & Ink Art, Hayley is becoming increasingly more popular. A simultaneous, albeit small, renaissance of fashion illustration spurred on by independent, art-friendly magazines and rising popularity of illustrators like Danielle Meder is helping to make fashion illustration a household word again. Artwork with personality, like Hayley’s, offers a beautiful alternative to static photography—sacrificing some accuracy captures the emotional essence of their subject. And isn’t art, and fashion, about feeling? —Danielle S. Fuechtmann
June 2014 25–29, 2014 Modea Paris Men’s Fashion Spring/Summer Paris, France July 2014 4–11, 2013 Los Angeles Fashion Week Spring Los Angeles, CA 21–26, 2013 World Mastercard Fashion Week Toronto Spring Toronto, ON 26–30, 2013 Mercedes-Benz Russian Fashion Week Moscow, Russia
May 2014 2–4, 2014 Karachi Fashion Week Karachi, Pakistan 6–10, 2014 FashionPhilosphy Fashion Week Poland Lodz, Poland 7–9, 2014 Ciculo de la Moda de Bogotá Bogotá, Colombia 21–24, 2014 Munich Fashion Supreme Kids Celebration Munich, Germany 23–25, 2014 Pitti Modaprima (Men’s and Women’s) Florence, Italy
3.1 Philip Lim
April 2014 1–6, 2014 Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Australia, Sydney, Australia 1–5, 2014 Nashville Fashion Week Nashville, TN 2–8, 2014 SA Fashion Week Spring/Summer Johannesburg, South Africa 3–6, 2014 Gainesville Spring Fashion Week Gainesville, FL 7–13, 2014 Milano Moda Design Spring/Summer Milan, Italy 7–13, 2014 Aurora Fashion Week Fall/Winter St. Petersburg, Russia 10–16, 2014 Shanghai Fashion Week Fall/Winter Shanghai, China
September 2014 4–11, 2014 Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week New York Spring New York City, NY 11–16, 2014 London Fashion Week Spring/Summer London, UK 16–22, 2014 Milano Women’s Wear (Moda Donna) Spring/Summer Milan, Italy 19–26, 2014 Western Canada Fashion Week Spring/Summer Edmonton, AB
August 2014 7–9, 2014 Face of Africa Fashion Week London London, UK
SHOPPING PAGE PRINT WORTHY La Maisons Simons Laval (Carrefour Laval),Montreal (Saint Catherine Street, Galeries d’Anjou) Quebec City (Old City, Place Sainte-Foy, Galeries de la Capitale) Saint-Bruno (Promenades Saint-Bruno) Sherbrooke (Carrefour de l’Estrie) Edmonton (West Edmonton Mall)
phabrikartdesign.com bebe.com kenzo.com missoni.com totoborello.com bcbg.com denisgagnon.ca marykatrantzou.com NATURAL ELEMENTS
Moschino.com Scala Pronto dorfman-pacific.com Nat Mat Paris aldoshoes.com 31philliplim.com converse.com clovercanyon.com iosselliani.com stuartweitzman.com manisharora.com
stanleycarroll.com DERKS FORMALS Derks.ca neuwdenim.com zanerobe.com goorin.com spalwart.com tigerofsweden.com sand.dk jlindeberg.com
Holt Renfrew Holtrenfrew.com Calgary, Edmonton, Montreal Vancouver, Ottawa, Quebec City Toronto,Bloor Street, Sherway Gardens and Yorkdale Winnipeg
BETTER RED kellymaddenclothing.com phabrikartdesign.com
bebe.com West Edmonton 8882 170th St. #1305 Edmonton, Canada T5T4M2 Chinook Centre 6455 Macleod Trail SW #0125 Calgary, Canada T2H0K8 Robson Street 1000 Robson St. Vancouver, Canada V6E1A8 PHABRIK art+design phabrikartanddesign.com PHABRIK BEAUTY Clarins Paris at Hudson’s Bay, select Sears, London Drugs, select Shoppers Drug Mart Clinique at Clinique counters nationwide Elizabeth Arden at Sears, Hudson’s Bay, select Shopper Drug Marts, London Drugs Jane Iredale at leading spas nationwide, www.stogryn.ca Lise Watier at Shopper Drug Mart, London Drugs
Reason tells us: there are 3 ways to go. Instinct tells us: there is only one way for growth. James Abu-Ulba
NATUR E + MAN + TECHNOLOGY
A FAMILY OF REPLUMPING AND ELASTICIZING PRODUCTS. GIVES ELASTICITY, MOISTURE, SMOOTHNESS AND PROTECTION. FOR ALL HAIR TYPES
W W W.STOGRYN.CA 84
NATUR ALTECH™ IS PRODUCED WITH ENERGY FROM RENEWABLE SOURCES
Published on Mar 27, 2014
FASHION | ART | DESIGN PHABRIK Magazine discovers the new and exciting and brings experiences from all over our fantastic world to our vibra...