Epoxy makes a smorgasbord of freshwater and saltwater flies more durable and more effective, but it has major drawbacks
Light-activated resins are one-part clear polymers that cure and quickly harden when exposed to specific light spectrums or sunlight - sunlight includes all light spectrums).
Originally developed for use in the dental industry, these new adhesives are quick drying, clear acrylic resins that not only are making the flies we tie look more realistic, but also saving tiers huge amounts of time at the vise.
It all started back in the 1980s when South Texas dentist Ned Lunt began using light-cured acrylic to tie As a dentist, Lunt knew that UV light-curing technology had been around for years in his profession, primarily to make orthodontic retainers. By the mid-â€™80s, the entire dental profession had switched over from UV to blue light. Charles Granstaff , eventually his partner at Tuffleye, began talking with Loon Outdoors, at the time leaders in UV light-curing technology used in wader repair. Loon in turn led them to chemical companies with ties to blue-light technology. By 2005, Tuffleye was, Bob Popovics stepted in to to help launch the product.
Clear Cure Goo, evolved out of the Internet. Brian Carson who was involved with a private fly fishing forum (Bandito Fly Fishing), got together with Fred Slann of Grass Rat. Slann though UV light-curing technology instead of blue lightwas a better way to go. Brian Carson purchased the rights to market this new product in 2009.
New Construction Concepts
Flexible Bass Worms and Baitfish
Creating Dome & Mono Eyes
Issues •Cracking / Shattering •Yellow Curing •Control •Curing Speed •Safety •Cost
Tying Tips •Fine-tune the shape with a bodkin •Use a bodkin to apply small amounts •Keep your light close to the acrylic, and move it slowly •Remove the tacky layer with alcohol on a paper towel. •Sally Hansen Hard as Nails will produce a nice glossy finish •Remove tackiness from back to hook eye so as not to deposit it on wing fibers. •To prevent fouling of zonker strips, apply to the hide from the tie-in point, extending a bit past the bend of the hook. •Use the thin versions as a base coat to soak into the materials and make the profile; then use the thick version to create a smooth-finished fly. •Try adding ultrafine glitter or Hard as Nails colors to the fly between coats •A rotary style vise is extremely helpful in curing these adhesives •Pull back on the syringe plunger after application •Sometimes the best way to apply the flexible material over a fairly large surface is with your finger. •Several lighter applications usually work better than one heavy application.