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October 2008

Black

Patagonia’s Monthly Travel Newspaper

Volume 4 • Issue 2 • October 2008 • www.patagoniablacksheep.com • Cover image by Barak Danin

Sheep WAT E R

real life. in pursuit of

Planet Patagonia pg 14,15

The Green Pages

®


October.08



w w w. p a t a g o n i a b l a c k s h e e p . c o m

  About Black Sheep Suscripción Chile valor por 8 meses: $10.000 CLP International cost for 8 months: $50.00 USD Envía tus datos al email: blacksheepchile@gmail.com Inmediatamente nos comunicaremos contigo.

Nombre:

Dirección:

Email:

W

e are a grass roots travel newspaper, independently and locally owned, covering all things Patagonia. We are Chile’s most widely read English-language paper. We publish eight issues per year, coinciding with Patagonia’s high season, from September to April. Our web site community, with up-to-the-minute info, gives travelers a space to share their experiences.  We are expats and locals. We are travelers, and we’ve put down roots in Patagonia. Living at the extreme tip of South America is hard. Traveling here isn’t any easier. We created Black Sheep to share information with fellow travelers and help them plan their adventures to the bottom of the world. We are backpackers, and we believe in counting experience by blisters, not by years. We believe in unguided adventure. We sleep in tents, and we camp in bad weather. We believe in river crossings and in getting dirty. We climb hills for sunrises, not just sunsets. We paint with bold strokes. We hitchhike. We recycle. We pick up trash that isn’t ours. We believe in being a part of the solution, not the problem. We believe that reggae music can change the world. We believe in the road less traveled. We believe in alternative power. We believe in nature remaining open & free for everybody. We believe in conservation and follow the principles of Leave No Trace. We believe in live outdoor music. We believe in healthy living and organic food. We believe in volunteering. We believe YOU can make a difference. We believe that the state of the world is too screwed up to ignore anymore. We believe in deep breaths outside. We believe in Robin Hood. We believe in the golden rule. We believe in testing the boundries. We believe in sharing good advice and in the power of word of mouth. We believe in helping people get out of the office. We believe you should love what you do, or stop. We believe that what you pack in, you pack out. We believe travel is about experience, culture, living like the locals, respecting Pachamama, and going home changed (or not returning home at all). We believe that backpackers abroad are the best representatives of their countries, and we should be united. Black Sheep is a bridge between advertiser and traveler. We search out the hip and reputable tour operators, lodging, restaurants, handicrafts, outdoor stores and mom & pop shops. Businesses that we think are especially groovy merit our stamp of approval, which means they... • Love the environment and practice eco-friendliness in their business • Are locally owned • Give back to the community • Offer something free to customers and quality service The opinions within Black Sheep, written or implied, are not necessarily those of the advertisers.We therefore reserve the right to live true to our name and always remain the Black Sheep.We are:

Bariloche, Argentina:

Publisher/Designer:

Jamie Schectman adiostahoe@gmail.com Shanie Matthews shanie@shaniematthews.com

Rustyn Mesdag editor@patagoniablacksheep.com

Director:

Pilar Irribarra sales@patagoniablacksheep.com

Calafate, Argentina:

Editor/Layout:

Heather Poyhonen editor@patagoniablacksheep.com

Maria Fourcade negrafourcade@hotmail.com Federico Fourcade pod_smolik@hotmail.com

Graphic Design:

Distribution: Patricio Alderete

Leslie Venti leslie.venti@gmail.com

Special Thanks: Bill Penhollow Isabel Chamorro Patricio Achurra erratic rock

Punta Arenas, Chile:

Marnix Doorn ptarenas@patagoniablacksheep.com

Puerto Natales, Chile:

Printed by:

Carolina “C.J.” Wilson cjwilson07@gmail.com

La Prensa Austral

Cover Image:

Pucón & Pto. Varas, Chile:

Barak Danin Bariloche, Argentina

Anthony Riggs anthony@patagoniablacksheep.com

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© 2008 All rights reserved. The contents of this paper may not be reproduced in whole or in part without consent of the copyright owner. Black Sheep design is a registered trademark. Published by Southern Cross, Ltda. Printed in Chile.

- Rustyn Mesdag, publisher

Welcome to October

in Patagonia. And good luck,‘cuz it’s not easy. Most of you are on extended trips, a month or more for sure, trying to budget your time and money to take in as much of Patagonia as you can. When time is limited, the last thing you want to do is zig when you were supposed to zag and lose a day in transit. We’ve all done it. Hopfully, this newpaper will help. All of us who build the Sheep every month also work in other areas of tourism, aside from the paper. After a few seasons down here, we realized how much time travelers spend asking the same questions about our Patagonia. It only made sense to try to get all the pearls in one place, like in a newspaper.Voila! But holy crap! It’s hard to cover a vast area like Patagonia (Chile AND Argentina) with such huge distances between the major hot spots. It’s a lot of ground to cover. Travelers like you have helped us out every step of the way. Without contributions from backpackers, hitchhikers and other travelers the paper wouldn’t exsist. All of the once-in-a-lifetime photos, all the coolest hidden places, treks or camping spots...they’re all found by you. A simple piece of advice, like ‘...camp along the east side of the ridge, instead of the west, because you’ll get beaten down by the wind...’ can change someone’s entire trip for the better. Only you know these truths, and everybody needs to know. The truth is we need your help in a lot of ways.

First: Did you like the paper? Did it help? Okay, then don’t throw it away. Pass it on. We don’t need more garbage in the world. And I promise you, that for every Black Sheep out there, there are 100 travelers who don’t have one and who might need one. Help us help you, and pass this paper along. Take it to the next town. The further away the newspapers travel, the more time travelers have to make plans in advance. Do us a big favor and grab a handful of them and take them to the next hostel you stay, or drop some at the cool café you found. If the paper helped you, it can also benefit another. Second way: Send us your discoveries! Let us know what’s going on out there on the front lines. What’s the word on the street? We want to know and share the info, never underestimate the power of word-of-mouth. We are just a handful of travelers, trying to make a cool little paper. Got a story? A recommendation? A cover shot? Write us anytime. Contact any of our people. We’ll make you famous. Third way: Support our advertisers. They in return, support us. These are locally run businesses that are trying to basically do the same thing we are: get the word out. Patagonia is a huge area. The advertisers are making an equally huge effort to reach you. It helps everyone when you make an effort to help them. Tell them where you saw their ad so they know there advertisment budget it being well spent! Oh... the other thing, we are trying to collect cool photos of Black Sheep Newspapers in awesome locations around the world. Send ‘em, and we’ll print ‘em! Thanks everyone, and good luck out there. Be safe and travel smart.

- Pilar Irribarra, directora

Bienvenidos

a una nueva edición de Black Sheep “sin fronteras”. Si, porque unimos con información la patagonia chilena-argetina . Nuestro desafío es conectar a lo que llamamos “Gringo Trail” por lo mismo en este número podrás encontrar información del circuito o recorrido que habitualmente siguen los viajeros que llegan hasta la Patagonia. Comenzando por Pucón, Puerto Varas, Puerto Montt, Puerto Natales, Torres del Paine, Punta Arenas, Bariloche, Calafate, Chaltén y desde este número USUAHIA, que sin duda atrae a turistas de todo el mundo por su entorno, mitos y leyendas del fin del mundo. Usuahia, Tierra del Fuego es una zona de amplias posibilidades para la práctica de trekking, cabalgatas, pesca deportiva, paseos en el Canal de Beagle y el cruce marítimo o aéreo a Puerto Williams, Chile. En invierno el centro invernal Monte Castor, ubicado a 15 minutos de la ciudad cuenta con equipos e infraestructura de ultima generación para exigentes esquiadores. UNIR LA PATAGONIA a través de nuestro “Travel News Paper” es un desafío grande pero estamos seguros que gracias a nuestro equipo y a la colaboración de nuestros lectores y empresas avisadoras, podemor generar una gran red de apoyo, un punto de encuentro y comunicación para los que amamos y trabajamos en la naturaleza, ya sea en turismo,

practicamos deporte al aire libre o realizamos actividades educativas y ambientales. La invitación es a escribirnos, enviarnos sus experiencias, fotos e inquietudes. Es importante para nuestro periódico estar siempre actualizado que tus sugerencias a la hora de viajar por patagonia las puedas compartir con otros aventureros como tú, tus descubrimientos personales son muy valiosos ya que no todo aparece en las guias y hay tesoros escondidos en cada lugar que son importantes de difundir. También, te pedimos que apoyes a las empresas avisadoras, son empresas locales que estan haciendo un gran esfuerzo por entregar un servicio de calidad y Black Sheep cree en cada una de ellas y las recomienda. Les deseo buen viaje a todos que disfruten este número que viene con excelentes reportajes desde Pucón a Usuahia. Recomiendo leer detenidamentes las Green Page y a poner en practica todas aquellas actitudes que demuetsran valoración y respeto por nuestra PACHAMAMA o Madre Tierra. P.D ¿Dónde encotrar tu Black sheep? En las ciudades antes mencionadas lo encontrarás en hoteles, restaurantes, cyber café, centros de información turística, oficinas de SERNATUR, aeropuertos, etc . Además, si quieres recibirlo mensualmente en tu casa ya sea en Chile o en el extranjero, te invitamos a suscribirte pagando sólo gastos de correo.




Black Sheep w w w. p a t a g o n i a b l a c k s h e e p . c o m

Patagonia Bus Schedules Schedules may alter slightly for the winter season. Please check with the bus companies directly for the latest schedules, terms and conditions. Note: During daylight savings time, there is a time difference between Chile and Argentina.

Chile / Argentina Buses Buses Ghisoni Ph. 613420 L. Navarro 975

Buses Ghisoni Terminal Río Gallegos

Buses Pacheco Ph. 242174 Colón 900

Mon. & Wed. thru Sat. 11.00 Tue., Fri., Sun. 11.30

Punta Arenas - Ushuaia

Buses Pacheco Terminal Río Gallegos

Tues. & Thu. thru Sun. 12.00 Mon., Wed., Sat. 12.00

Ushuaia - Punta Arenas

Buses Pacheco Ph. 242174 Colón 900

(via Río Grande) Mon., Wed., Fri. 09.00

Buses Pacheco San Martín 1267

(via Río Grande) Mon., Thu., Sat. 10.00

Tecni Austral Ph. 613422 L. Navarro 975

Tue., Thu., Sat. 07.30

Tecni Austral Roca 157

Mon., Wed., Fri. 05.30

Puerto Natales - Punta Arenas Buses Fernandez Ph. 411111 E. Ramírez 399

07.15 09.00 13.00 14.30 17.00 18.30 20.00

Punta Arenas - Puerto Natales Buses Fernandez Ph. 221812 A. Sanhueza 745

08.00 09.00 13.00 14.30 17.00 18.30 20.00

Buses Pacheco Ph. 414513 Baquedano 500

07.30 10.00 13.30 19.00

Buses Pacheco Ph. 242174 Colón 900

08.30 14.00 18.00 19.30

Bus Sur Ph. 411859 Baquedano 668

M-Th.: 07.00 & 15.00 Fri.-Sun.: 07.15 & 19.00

Bus Sur Ph. 614224 José Menéndez 552

Tues-Thur.: 15.00 & 19.00 Fri.-Mon.: 09.15 & 19.00

Puerto Natales - El Calafate

El Calafate - Puerto Natales

Cootra Ph. 412785 Baquedano 456

Cootra Terminal de Ómnibus

Zaajh Ph. 412260 Arturo Prat 236

Daily 07.30 T, Th & Sat.: 08.00

Zaajh Terminal de Ómnibus

El Calafate

5 hrs

TdP Laguna Amarga

2 hrs 30

Punta Arenas

3 hrs

TdP Pudeto

3 hrs 15

Ushuaia

15 hrs

Torres del Paine Admin.

3 hrs 45

Approximate travel times from Punta Arenas (allow time for border crossings) Puerto Natales

3 hrs

Río Gallegos

6 hrs

Río Grande

8 hrs

Ushuaia

13 hrs

Puerto Natales – Torres

del

Paine

Torres

del

Paine – Puerto Natales

Trans Via Paine - Bulnes 518 - office Puma Tours 413672 Puerto Natales Laguna Amarga Pudeto Administration

07.30 09.45 10.45 11.45

Administration Pudeto Laguna Amarga Puerto Natales

13.00 13.30 14.30 17.00

Administration Pudeto Laguna Amarga Puerto Natales

13.00 13.30 14.30 17.00

Administration Pudeto Laguna Amarga Puerto Natales

13.00 13.30 14.30 17.00

Gomez - Arturo Prat 234 - Ph 411971 Puerto Natales Laguna Amarga Pudeto Administration

07.30 09.45 10.45 11.45

Buses JB - Arturo Prat 258 - Ph 410242 Puerto Natales Laguna Amarga Pudeto Administration

07.30 09.45 10.45 11.45

Note: From October 1-15, there will only be morning buses to Torres del Paine. From October 15 onward, all companies will have another bus to the Park at 2:00 p.m. Please check with bus companies directly for updated information.

M, F & Sun.: 08.00

El Chaltén - El Calafate

Chaltén Travel Ph. 491833 Terminal de Ómnibus

Daily 08.00

Chaltén Travel Hostel Rancho Grande

Daily 18.00

CalTur Ph. 491842 Terminal de Ómnibus

Daily 08.00

CalTur Avenida 520

Daily 15.00

Taqsa Ph. 491843 Terminal de Ómnibus

M, W, F: 17.30

Taqsa Ph. 423130 Rancho Grande

Martín

(allow time for border crossings and tour connections within park)

Daily 08.30

El Calafate - El Chaltén

San

Approximate travel times from Puerto Natales

Travel Times

Río Gallegos - Punta Arenas

Torres del Paine Buses

Punta Arenas - Río Gallegos

T, Th, Sat.: 07.30

El Calafate - Río Gallegos

Río Gallegos - El Calafate

Sportsman Ph. 492680 Terminal de Ómnibus

Daily 12.30

Sportsman Ph. 442595 Rancho Grande

Daily 20.00

Taqsa Ph. 491843 Terminal de Ómnibus

Daily 12.00, 14.30

Taqsa Ph. 423130 Rancho Grande

Daily 12.00, 14.00

Interlagos Ph. 491273 Terminal de Ómnibus

Daily 04.00

Interlagos Ph. 442080 Terminal de Ómnibus

Daily 13.30

Grupo de guias que asistieron al curso SAN WFR (Wilderness First Responder) realizado el mes de septiembre en la sede UMAG de Puerto Natales y el Parque Nacional Torres del Paine. La certificación es reconocida internacionalmente y avalada por la Sociedad Argentina de Medicina de Montaña. www.aespa.com.ar


October.08



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Ushuaia, Argentina

What’s the big deal about the Falkland Islands/Islas Malvinas? This is a very sore topic with Argentines, as they still consider the islands their own. They have claimed them since 1833, although the islands were settled by mariners, gauchos, and English and Scottish sheep farmers. No one paid much attention to the windswept territories until the war between England and Argentina in the 1980s, which Argentina lost. Whatever you do, refer to the islands as the Malvinas, or don’t bring ‘em up at all! If I bus into Ushuaia, where do I get dropped off? Ushuaia doesn’t have a central bus station. Out-oftown buses drop off at the parking lot next to YPF petrol station on Maipu, the road which parallels

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San Martin

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Pereyra Rossi

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Gdor. Paz Gdor. Deloqui

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Gdor. Campos

Avda Maipú

What else is there to do around town? Visit the first estancia on the island, Harberton, take a 4x4 ride to Lago Fagnano, ride the Train at the End of the World, rent a bike, mosey through the museums. Take the City Tour, fly over the Beagle Channel in a private plane, go horseback riding, ride the chair lift above town to Glaciar Martial, or take a boat ride through the islands of the Beagle Channel. Why are there two different prices for stamps? Because there are two postal companies, one run by the government, and the other a private company which uses DHL. They charge slightly more.You can put your post cards in any of the boxes around town, no matter which stamps you buy. Why are there little plaques outside hostels and hotels? The plaque means they are registered with the municipal tourist office. If any problems arise, they can be reported. They are also monitored for hygiene and safety standards. If you stay within this network, prices are standardized and a certain level of professionalism is ensured.

Canal Beagle B a h i a d e Us h u a i a Bahia Encerrada Gu

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Capitan Armando Mutto

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Ruta Nac. 3 Ea. Harberton Centros Invernales

Magallanes Antartida Argentian

Lassarre 25 de Mayo

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Juana Fadul

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9 de Julio

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Don Bosco

Sa

Brig. JM de Rosas

Solis

Piedrabueana

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In town, metered taxis are the way to go. In high season, there are mini buses running regularly to the national park (30 min. west of town) and also east up the valley along Route 3, giving you easy access to trailheads.Your hostel can arrange your transport to the park, or a service that can get you to trailheads on Route 3. Is there a place to get my passport stamped with the ‘End of the World’? Yep! The trick is finding out where to get the stamp.

Gdor. Valdez

Magallanes

necios

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Lean dro N . Alem

Jose Maria Gomez

Hipolito Bouchard

Is there any good hiking near by? A ton. Ask at the tourist office for information on free hikes, right outside of town. “Senderos Antiguos,” are three walks of varying difficulty, which you can start right from the center of town. The national park office on San Martín can go over maps with you and help with suggestions for hikes in the park. There are some great hikes in Parque Nacional Tierra del Fuego, and trekking from a day to several days in the valleys off of Route 3. In the winter these valleys offer cross country skiing and dog sledding.

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Los Se

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How do I get around to the hikes and excursions I want to do?

There’s one Casa de Cambio, Thaler, on the main drag near the tourist office.You can also change cash at the banks, between 10:00-15:00 week days.

Las

Leandro N. Ale

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Three of ‘em, ! rated as possibly the best in Latin America. There’s one at the airport, one at the “Muelle Turistico,” or Tourist Wharf, and one on the main street, at San Martín 674. All offices open around at 8 or 9 a.m. and close between 6 and 10 p.m., depending on the time of year.Visit their web site: www.e-ushuaia.com.

Where can I change money in Ushuaia?

Hi

Is there a tourist office?

Los N aveg ante s

Onas

1.) By bus from all over Argentina or from Punta Arenas, Chile. 2.) By plane from many Argentine cities. 3.) By boat from Isla Navarino. (Check with Ushuaia Boating at Paz & Godoy)

Ushuaia, Argentina

Sarmiento

How can I get there?

the coast. From here, you can hail a taxi to your hostel. If you don’t already have something booked, walk one block heading against traffic, and you’ll come to one of the tourist offices. They might even call your choice of hostel and see if there’s room for you.

Walk along the Beagle Channel in the Parque Nacional Tierra del Fuego, visit historic Estancia Harberton, or check out the skiing and dog sledding in winter. In the summer, water ski on enormous Lago Fagnano or the many rivers throughout the island, or choose one of the day hikes in the area. If you’re not looking for historic tours and whatnot, Ushuaia is still a cool place to sit and drink good beer in good pubs with good people.

Piedrabueana

    questions & answers

This hip city overlooks the Beagle Channel at the southern end of the island of Tierra del Fuego, Ushuaia wins the title “Southernmost City in the World.” Because of this fame, anybody who’s anybody tries to find their way to Ushuaia, though technically Puerto Williams in Chile is further south. But Puerto Williams doesn’t have near the tourist services that Ushuaia does. The name Ushuaia in the Yaman Indian language means “bay penetrating westward.” By South American standards, it’s a pretty expensive place to visit, especially if you’re on a budget. Most people make their way down here just to say they’ve been to the southernmost city in the world.

Patagonia

POPULATION: 60,000 FOUNDED: 1884 WHAT’S GROOVY: Cerro Guanaco JUST IN CASE: 101 (police), 100 (fire), 107 (emergency)

Onas

Ushuaia, Argentina




Tierra del Fuego w w w. p a t a g o n i a b l a c k s h e e p . c o m

A Hot Trot Through

Tierra del Fuego

Day Trippin’ at the End of the Earth

By C.J. Wilson

By Pilar Irribarra • Translated by Carolina Wilson A stop along the road...

Gaucho fuegino

T

ierra del Fuego is mysterious and fascinating island, full of legends and scenery that will capture your imagination. It is shared by Chile and Argentina.The eastern, or Argentine part, is visited by thousands of tourists who arrive to Ushuaia from every corner of the world. But what about the Chilean side? The western part of the island boasts pampas to forest, mountains and glaciers, and possibly the most pristine natural reserve in Patagonia. Porvenir, the Fuegian capital on the Chilean side, is a good place to begin your adventure. You can rent a pick-up truck or jeep in Punta Arenas, contract a transport company with a driver-guide, or start out on bicycle. However you decide to go, Porvenir is the last place where you can buy food or gas, take out money from the bank, or find any information you may need. There are hotels and restaurants in Porvenir. You can also visit the Ferdinand do Cordero Rusque Museum, with a photographic and archeological exhibit on the Ona and Yaghan tribes, the original inhabitants of the region. You’ll find information on the discovery of gold and mining; a collection of beautiful altar pieces, and a section of natural history, archeology, and ethnography. There is also a great panoramic view of Delfines from a boat in the Bahia de Chilote. Once you’re heading south on the international road, you might experience the Gold Circuit, in the Cordón de Baquedano, with a spectacular view of the Strait of Magellan.You’ll visit an area where artisanal miners mined gold. You can talk to them about the history and lifestyle, and try mining for gold nuggets using the same techniques of 100 years ago. Continuing your adventure toward Onaisin at kilometer 100, you’ll come across historical milestones, testimony to the past, when the enormous Sociedad Explotadora de Tierra del Fuego left its mark on the region. In the sector called Bahia Inutil (Useless Bay), you’ll see the remains Puerto Nuevo, a lamb processing plant, which separated meat from fat (used for soap and cooking), on former-estancia Caleta Josefina. Today you can see the remains of the installations and several machines. Caleta Josefina was the first estancia founded by the Sociedad in 1883. Some buildings are still standing, and you can visit the Cementerio de Onaisin, which was declared a National Monument in 1976. Yet even today, if you travel across the pampas in summer, you’ll see groups of shearers, “comparsas,” who go from estancia to estancia shearing thousands of sheep.

Cameron is a good place to stop, have a bite to eat, or simply contemplate daily life in Tierra del Fuego. It consists of the town hall, police, school and guest house. Cameron arose from the shell of an old estancia founded in 1904 by the Socieded, and it was baptized with the name of one of the managers. Its buildings demonstrate typical architecture, rich in detail, brought to the area by the English. From Cameron, you’ll have to decide between two routes.The coastal route passes sawmills at Puerto Yarton, Río Condor (famous for its fishing) and Puerto Arturo, with good places for camping. Or you can head south on the road which passes Lago Blanco, a route which goes inland and passes various secciones and puestos of the old estancia. Along the way you will see the huge dredges (aurifera) brought from England in 1904, which functioned until 1910.You’ll also pass remnants of old estancias in Section Russfin and Section Río Grande, and current-day estancias, including Enamonte, Vicuña, Río Chico, Las Flores, and so on. From the pampas to the forests and mountains... Lenga forests and beaver habitat begin south of Pampa Guanaco. This area is a fisherman’s paradise, with Río Rasmussen and Río Grande, as well as beautiful Lago Blanco. If you want to continue to the end of the road, you’ll need to go back to the main route and head to Lago Fagnano. Along the way you’ll marvel at the mountainous scenery, and you can visit Lagos Deseado y Despreciado. At Lago Fagnano you’ll see the road project to connect Estancias Yendegaia with Puerto Williams, one of the least explored trails in Chile.The project is a challenging one, and expected to take a few more years, crossing Cordillera Darwin along the way. For now, it is a real gift to be able to experience the magical scenery of Fagnano. If you are up for more adventure, you can continue on horseback, or five more days of trekking, to arrive at Estancia Yendegaia.

Did you know? Isla Navarino by boat from Ushuaia It is possible to cross from Argentina to Chile and vice versa between Ushuaia and Isla Navarino.You can’t fly that way, but you can take a boat-van transfer to get to Puerto Williams, the military town on Isla Navarino. Due to complex international paperwork, Ushuaia Boating is the only company offering this service regularly. They schedule two trips daily (9 a.m. and 5 p.m.) and need a minimum of three travelers to make the crossing. Set up your reservation with them by email at reservas@ushuaiaboating.com. They’ll need full name, nationality, birth date and passport number for each traveler. Cost is USD $130 one way, $240 round trip.This includes the 45-minute boat ride to Puerto Navarino across the Beagle Channel, shepherding you through Chilean customs, and transportation to Puerto Williams, from which you can see the Dientes Mountains, an end-ofthe-earth trekking and hiking destination. The Ushuaia Boating office is located at 190 Godoy (tel: 02901-436153). In Puerto Williams, the contact person can be found at Hostal Coiron.

Choose from several day hikes in and around Ushuaia that follow the coast, climb above the treeline, get close to glaciers, or picnic beside small mountain lakes. Whatever direction you go, you’ll discover the raw beauty of Tierra del Fuego all around you. Here are a few suggestions to get you started, each with a café at the end to warm you up before you head back to town. For more hikes, as well as trekking information, visit the tourist information office and ask about their Senderos Antiguos and other hikes. 1. For a warm-up, head to Glaciar Martial, a local ski area situated above town and below the glacier of the same name. Take a taxi to the ski center, and hike up the ski trails until they open up at the basin below the glacier. Follow the trails as far uphill as you wish, or take a side trail to an overlook. Before you head back to town, don’t miss the Casa de Té, just off the parking lot. (For a longer day, hike up to the ski area from town. Pick up a map with directions at the tourist office). 2. To get to the half-day hike at Laguna Esmeralda, take a mini-bus or taxi to Refugio Altos del Valle, about 20 km along Route 3. Follow the main path, through forest and fields, eventually passing through a boggy area. Scramble up the river valley toward the crest which contains the bluegreen Laguna Esmeralda. Return the way you came. Arrange transportation to return to town, before you head out unless you go a time when there is a regular mini-bus shuttle.

3. In Parque Nacional Tierra del Fuego, tell your driver you want to do the Costera Trail, and he’ll drop you off at the closest point. Pick up a trail map when you enter the Park (you’ll need to register and pay the entrance fee). This trail, about 8 km, traverses lenga forest, never far from the coast of the Beagle Channel, with its upland geese, ibis and grebes.Watch and listen for the magellanic woodpecker too. When the trail ends at the road, continue on for another km or so to the coffee shop next to the campground and warm up next to the fireplace with a hot cuppa, while you wait for the mini-bus back to town. 4.The strenuous Cerro Guanaco hike, also in the Park, begins at the aforementioned café and campground, and follows the shore of Lago Roca (same trail as Hito XXIV), before turning northeast, steeply climbing through the forest to a lookout that overlooks the Beagle Channel. Continue upward, along a boggy trail until it opens up. As you look across the large bog, you’ll see where the trail continues. You’ll have ridgeside views of the Beagle Channel’s islets and the surrounding mountains. Return along the same path, ending back at the café where the mini-buses pick up. Note: If you plan to return to the park a second day, tell the staff at the entrance station, and you can get a stamp to re-enter the next day on the same ticket.

Backpacking Recipes a la Mode Bored with 5-minute rice dinners and dried pasta meals? Looking for an alternative lunch? Ready for a healthy, light-weight breakfast suggestion? Is there something that will help you survive cold Patagonian nights in a tent? Yes, yes, yes! Here are a few recipes to spice up your trip. Bill’s Trekkers Breaky For a ‘W’ breakfast for two you’ll need... • 1 box of instant oatmeal (Quaker, Avena Instantánea) • 1 can of Svelty powdered milk. (Don’t go for the cheaper brand.Your breakfast will taste so much better if you just go for Svelty.) • 1 bag of brown sugar, which you can find at the pharmacy. Toss oatmeal in a resealable Ziploc bag and add powdered milk and sugar to taste. In the morning all you have to do is put your cup into the Ziploc bag, add some boiling water, and you’re ready to go for another day. For some variation, take a bag of jam or some dried fruit to flavor up your oats. Wrap It Up For this alternative lunch or cold dinner for two, you’ll need... • 1 pack of integral tortillas, which you can find at Vergel on Blanco Encalada • 250 grams of cream cheese • Aji Pebre (some spicy goodness that you can find the small bottles, next to the ketchup) • 1 pack of Serrano ham • A handful of white raisins (pasas blancas) • A handful of fresh cilantro Mix the cream cheese with some Aji Pebre to taste and spread it on the tortillas. Divide the Serrano ham onto each tortilla, sprinkle on some chopped-up raisins, finish it all off with cilantro, and wrap these bad boys up. Provecho! Candola If you’re in your tent with all your layers on and still freezing your toes off, consider walking up to the refugio and buying a box of wine. For this typical Chilean recipe you’ll need... • A box of wine • Sugar • The skin of half an orange • A couple of sticks of cinnamon • And… to get out of that cozy sleeping bag to put up your stove Mix all the ingredients in a pot, add sugar to taste, and heat until you can just drink it, but the alcohol is still in there. Sleep tight!


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Punta Arenas, Chile

Does Punta Arenas have a camping? Not at walking distance from the center. 4.5 hrs. to the new park entrance at Río Serrano. 5hrs to Laguna Amarga entrance.

Where is the bus station?

Most people make a stop over in the town of Puerto Natales. However, there are straight buses to Torres del Paine through Buses Barria.

Are there tours to Torres del Paine National Park from Punta Arenas? Most of the travel agencies in Punta Arenas can organize trips to the Park. Be aware that a “full day Torres del Paine” will be a very long bus ride. However, if you’re short on time… Is there any public transportation? Yes! Micro is the name for the public buses, and they are a great option to get to know Punta Arenas. Just hop onto one, take it as far as it goes, which is until you are the last one on the bus and the driver nervously starts to look at you from the rear-view mirror. Then you ask him to take you back to the centro. Colectivos are car-type public transportation. Like buses, they have a defined route, but they ‘collect’ people along the road, so you may hop on and off. Both options are pretty inexpensive. How do I know where the colectivos go? There are no plans or maps. People just know... or they don’t. It always says on the sign, but then they blast by you, so it’s difficult to read. Have fun!

Mario Toledo

Julia Garay

Caupolican

Quillota

I. Carrera Pinta

Ave. Colon

era

tan

os e. C Av

How far is Torres del Paine from here?

Punta Arenas is a windy city especially in spring and summer with winds up to 120 km/h. The ropes are put up to prevent people from being blown into the street. Unfortunately Punta Arenas doesn’t have a central bus station. Every company has its own terminal somewhere in the center. There are numerous buses to Natales until 8 p.m. Buses to Argentina and to Torres del Paine National Park are a little less frequent.

Mejicana

Bories

Yes, tap water is absolutely safe.

Sarmiento Yugoslavia

How to get to Torres del Paine from Punta Arenas?

Jose Menedez Pedro Montt

Waldo Seguel

Errazuriz Balmaceda

How far to Puerto Natales, Provenir & Ushuaia?

Ave. Indepencia

250 km to Puerto Natales. 40 km as the crow flies to Porvenir, about 2.5 hrs by ferry. 600 km to Ushuaia via Primera Angostura.

Roca

Fagnano

21 de Mayo

Why are there ropes on the main square corners?

Can I drink the tap water?

Ave. Espana

Punta Arenas means “sandy point” after its sandy soil and rocky beaches. A swim however isn’t recommended with an average water temperature of 5 degrees C.

Arauco

What does Punta Arenas mean?

Jorge Montt

There are a couple of agencies, mainly concentrated on Lautaro Navarro between Pedro Montt and Fagnano.

O‘Higgins

Mainly the blocks around the plaza which are shown on the map.

Maipu

Lautaro Navarro

Where can I change money?

Senoret

What is ‘downtown’ Punta Arenas?

Magallanes

Angamos

All taxis have a taximeter. In and around the center you’ll pay between 1.500 and 2.500 pesos.

Ave. Bulnes

How much do taxis cost?

interested in maritime history and remote cultures will enjoy Punta Arenas’ many museums. Museo Regional Salesiano has several exibits on the region’s native tribes along with an impressive array of taxidermied animals. Punta Arenas is the gateway to visit Magallenic Penguins, with colonies located at Seno Otway (very close, with about 11,000 nesting birds) and Isla Magdalena (reachable by boat, with about 120,000 penguins). Penguin season is roughly October-March. If you’re not here when the penguins are, consider visiting Puerto Hambre and Fuerto Bulnes, or do some end-of-the-world trekking to places like Cabo Froward, the bottommost tip of South America.

Jose Nogueira

    questions & answers

Punta Arenas is the southern-most city on continental South America, overlooking the famous Strait of Magellan. Punta Arenas has a long, bloody history, starting with Magellen’s discovery of the strait, a passageway from Europe to the Pacific, and continuing with the nearby gold booms, wool booms and attempts to ‘tame’ and convert the native peoples (Kaweshkar, Yagan, Aonikenk and Selk’nam). The city experienced a slump in the early 20th century with the opening of the Panama Canal, the drop in wool prices, and the end of the whaling trade. Things started looking up again with the discovery of local oil, and now the region’s economy relies heavily on the petroleum industry. Those

Chiloe

POPULATION: 116.005 FOUNDED: 1848 WHAT’S GROOVY: Trekking to Cabo Froward JUST IN CASE: 131 (ambulance), 132 (fire), 133 (police)

Armando Sanhueza

Port

Punta Arenas, Chile

Boliviana

Is there a boat to Ushuaia? Yes, a fancy ship called the “Expedition Cruise.”

How much is an airport transfer?

What are my penguin options?

What are the highlights of the Punta Arenas city center?

A taxi to the airport usually costs 5.000. From the airport to town it’s about 8.000. There are also minibus shuttles.

1.) Tours leave every afternoon to Seno Otway.

What type of day tours are there?

3.) Zodiac boat trips in the morning and afternoon to Isla Magdalena, every day.

To start with, the plaza. It’s a nice square surrounded by old trees and an outstanding central monument honoring Magellan, the Portuguese discoverer. Walk four blocks up from the plaza to the Mirador de la Cruz where you have a beautiful view of Tierra del Fuego and the Strait of Magellan.You can also depart from the plaza along Magallanes Street to visit the cemetery, which is considered one of the most beautiful in South America. On your way back visit the Salesian museum which will give you a full overview of the regional flora, fauna, and indigenous cultures. And next door you can visit the enormous Don Bosco church. How far is the airport out of town? About 20km or 30 minutes.

You can visit the penguin colonies, historic Fuerte Bulnes, or even do a side trip to Laguna Parriar National Forest (recommended). What’s with all the street dogs? Do they bite? Yes, gringos only. When does ski season start? Depending on snow conditions, the season is rougly from June-August.You can see the Strait of Magellan from the slopes. How many people live here? About 120.000. That’s about 0.8% of Chile’s total population.

2.) Ferry to Isla Magdalena afternoon on Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday.

Can I reach the end of the continent? From Punta Arenas the road continuous about 60 km south. From there it is about a three days hike to Cabo Froward which is the southernmost tip of South America’s continent. Is it possible to get to any of the zillions of islands I see on the map in the Straits of Magellan? Yes! For a price. Contact Solo Expediciones (Jose Nogueira 1255). They offer boat trips to remote islands for almost-off-the-map trekking, fishing, and more.




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The Isla Navarino Dientes Circuit

By J. Williams

Billed as the southernmost trekking opportunity in the world, the rugged Dientes Circuit on Isla Navarino is miles beyond any ordinary trekking experience. For 53 kilometers, the route winds through an otherworldly landscape. Mountains broken out from the floor of the ocean.Where the Andes crumble into the Antarctic Plate. Where tenuous passes defy the staggering winds. Where spartan vegetation clings precariously bracing itself against the punishing climate and the manipulations of the introduced beaver. For the serious trekker, the five-day Dientes Circuit is a chance to experience unique terrain at what is literally the last scrap of land before the legendary Cape Horn and Antarctic Sea.And while the route offers many worthy experiences, like awesome views that stretch as far as the Cape Horn straits, it is also impressive for what it lacks, like crowded trails, clearly defined paths, and over-crowded refugios. In fact, there are no refugios on the route. There is not even an entrance fee to pay.Trekkers are only required to check in with the carabineros in Puerto Williams. From there, the trailhead is just three kms from the tiny village of Puerto Williams with a good possibility that you won’t see anyone else in the course of the circuit. The Dientes Circuit is relatively new, developed in the early ’90s by Lonely Planet trekking guide author Clem Lindemayer. A few of the more prominent peaks along the circuit have been named after him. Cierro Clem, for example, makes an impressive profile and serves as an important landmark. Because of the difficulty of the route and the distance of Isla Navarino from the beaten path, the Dientes Circuit receives a fraction of Chile’s annual trekking visitors. The route was marked with the Chilean numbered trail marker system in early 2001, but it is still far from a well-marked path. The Dientes trekker needs to be self-reliant and good at route finding. The 38 trail points are spread over a 53 km route, with four significant passes to cross and a myriad maze of beaver ponds and dams to negotiate in the valleys between. It is strongly advised to follow the route from Puerto Williams, as the markers are only painted on one side. Since the markers are cairns (rock

piles), individual trail markers are often difficult to distinguish from their surroundings without the red signage painted on them to mark the route. Weather is also a strong factor, particulary the strength of the winds that sweep up from the white continent and make the passes, especially the final pass, Paso Virginia, very dangerous. Blasts of wind strong enough to knock a heavily loaded trekker from their feet are not uncommon and come without warning. The Dientes Circuit is broken into five stages, each stage requiring about five hours to complete. With the long daylight hours of the southern hemisphere summer, some trekkers might be tempted to combine two stages into one day.While it is possible to do the circuit in four days, it would involve a day with two passes to surmount or a very long final day, descending from the nearly 900-meter Paso Virginia back to sea level, over a distance of 23 kms. The route markers end more than 300 meters above sea level, looking down on Bahia Virginia, and from there, the trekker must negotiate through the cow pastures and calafate bushes to the coastal road. Then hike the final 8 kms of pavement back to Puerto Williams. Passing trucks will often stop for trekkers on the final stretch. Otherwise, it’s about a two-hour walk back to Puerto Williams. Just getting to Isla Navarino is part of the adventure itself. The Patagonian airline company DAP flies a 20-odd seat twin otter from Punta Arenas to Puerto Williams daily in the summer. The flight over Tierra del Fuego and the Strait of Magellan is incredibly scenic, and oddly enough, the least expensive option. There are, however, other options.Though more expensive than flying, it’s possible to travel by boat from Ushuaia across the Beagle Channel to Puerto Navarino and then travel the 50-odd kms of coastal road east to Puerto Williams. For the truly intrepid traveler, the Punta Arenas-based Transbordadora Austral Broom operates a once a week passenger ferry to Puerto Williams, a 30-hour trip through the Straits of Magellan and along the Beagle Channel. Though spartan in accommodations and service, the passing scenery of hanging glaciers and mountains that float on water truly convey an end of the world sensation.

Sunrise, shadows and snow, hiking the Dientes Circuit on Isla Navarino.

The Ghosts of Patagonia

Comfortable Rooms Fully Equipped Kitchen Laundry Service Internet & Telephone View of the Strait of Magellan Coffee Shop

By Marcela Suazo

José Noguiera 1600 +56-61 241357 hotelhain@gmail.com Punta Arenas, Chile

T

he human presence in these remote lands repeats the thirst for adventure that has guided human beings since their origin. The first tribes of hunters that occupied these territories arrived 12,000 years ago. Only 6000 years ago, the Kaweshkar canoers, along with the Aonikenk (ancient dwellers of the plains), initiated the permanence and continuity of man in this corner of the planet. Soon after, the arrival of the Spanish captain Juan Ladrilleros (1557-58) marked the discovery of the zone and much later the German pioneer Hermann Eberhard (189293) initiated the colonization the area. Even later the arrival of many Chilean people from the island of Chiloé put their seal of identity on this area called Patagonia. The Yamanas or Yaghans, known as the canoeist of the Beagle, were the southernmost inhabitants in the world. They lived along the edges of the Beagle Channel, as well as neighbouring channels, as far south as Cape Horn. They were adapted to living on the coast, hunting southern sea lions for their principal source of food because of their high fat content. The Sélknam or Onas inhabited the steppes in the north and the woods in the south of Tierra del Fuego. Their way of life was very similar to that of the Aonikenk, although they never used horses.They hunted guanaco, wild birds and rodents. They lived in circular huts made of tree trunks covered with leather and sticks. The Sélknam were tall, formidable, and more aggressive in character than the other aboriginals. They died out having been displaced from their lands or eliminated by the colonists who cleared the land in order to set up farms. The Kawéskar. Called the Alacalufes by the Spanish, lived spread out in small groups that travelled, via canoe, through the channels of the Archipelago.They inhabited the area stretching from the Golfo de Penas (Gulf of Pains) to the Brecknock Peninsula, a very damp and rainy area with abundant vegetation. They hunted sea lions, otters and birds, as well as fished and collected shellfish and molluscs. They would take advantage of the meat and skin of any whale beached by the low tides.They built their canoes with pieces of cut bark tied together with vegetable fibres and sealed with a mixture of earth, clay, and roots. Their huts were made with wooden poles which were covered with sea lions skin. The Aonikenk or Patagones inhabited the steppe from the River Santa Cruz in Argentina in the north to the Straight of Magellan in the south. They spent their time hunting rhea (Ñandú) and other birds, as well as the guanaco whose meat they ate and skin they used for clothing. Their homes were made using leather and wooden poles. All of the group participated in the hunt for guanaco and rheas. The women carried the tools and helped to strengthen the fencing used to isolate the animals so that they could be attacked by the men with “Boleadoras” and bows and arrows.

Bories No 655 / Punta Arenas Cocina Salvaje de la Patagonia Guanaco Ñandú Centolla Caiquen Castor Krill Cordero 21 de Mayo 1469 • Punta Arenas • 56-61 241029

remezon@hotmail.com

Errazuriz 567, Punta Arenas, Chile www.erraticrock.com erraticrockpa@gmail.com 56 61 221130

You’re on the right track. Jah Guide. erratic rock hostel Punta Arenas


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HOSTEL Y TURISMO

Jose Menendez 882 Punta Arenas, Chile Ph/Fax: 56-61-221279

JO

Leyenda de los Onas Adapatación del Libro “Lo Que Cuentan los Onas” de Miguel Ángel Palermo.

S E MENEN D E Z josemenendez@chileaustral.com

www.chileaustral.com/josemenendez

D Travel. Discover. Paddle. Live. www.aquanativapatagonia.com Eberhard 161 Puerto Natales,Chile ph 414143

icen que, antiguamente, las mujeres eran las que mandaban entre los Onas. Y no sólo mandaban: el problema es que no trabajaban nada de nada. Los pobres hombres tenían que correr todo el día, cazando y juntando plantas para comer, cosiendo pieles para hacer ropa, atendiendo a los chicos. Y ellas, mientras tanto, se la pasaban rascándose la barriga, charlando y dándose la gran vida. ¿Cómo lo hacían? Gracias a una gran mentira. Ya les explico. Parece que fue Kraaeh (la luna), que era una mujer, la que tuvo la idea de aprovecharse de los hombres. Siguiendo su plan, entre todas y en secreto, construyeron una gran choza de troncos y ramas en un lugar apartado. Después, crearon unas máscaras espantosas, hicieron unas caras horribles, como para disfrazarse y que nadie fuera capaz de reconocerlas. Su obra maestra era el disfraz de la luna. Hicieron un armazon de ramas de unos dos metros de alto, en forma de tubo aplastado y lo forraron con cuero. Después, lo pintaron de rojo y le agregaron rayas punteadas de blanco. Cuando la luna se puso el armatoste, sólo se le veían los pies. Por fin, al atardecer, se metieron en las máscaras y se acabaron de disfrazar pintandose todo el cuerpo negro y rojo.Y por si fuera poco se agregaron unas manchas amarillas, otras se pintarrajearon rayas blancas y otras se pegotearon pelos de animales. Cuando estuvieron listas, se abalanzaron

sobre el campamento, donde estaban los hombres con los chicos, muy tranquilos. Aparecieron de pronto, corriendo como locas, saltando y dando gritos tremendos, que ponían los pelos de punta: unos “uuuu” estremecedores y también unos “iiiii” finitos que hacían palidecer al más valiente. Para colmo, repartieron garrotazos para todos lados. Después de hacer un gran desparramo de varones asustados, salieron disparando hacia la choza grande, donde se escondieron. Cuando a los hombres se les pasó la primera impresión, siguieron el rastro de las enmascaradas y llegaron a la choza. Apenas los vieron llegar, las mujeres--que estaban adentro--se pusieron a sacudir unos cueros que metian un ruido horrible; golpearon paredes de la choza con palos y pegaron unos gritos desgarradores, como si las estuvieran matando. Al escuchar los gritos y reconocer las voces de sus esposas e hijas, los hombres quisieron correr a ayudarlas, pero en ese momento salieron de la carpa las enmascaradas, con la luna a la cabeza. Ésta dijo, “No den un paso más.Yo soy Jalpen, un espíritu maligno, y éstos son mis ayudantes. Acá tenemos prisioneras a sus mujeres.” Kraan, el sol, que en ese entonces era un hombre y además el marido de la luna, se adelantó y dijo, “¡Esperen!, ¿Qué quieren ustedes espíritus para no hacerles nada?” “Mmmm,” dijo la luna, “Nosotras tenemos hambre. Especialmente yo. Si ustedes nos traen carne y otras cosas, no las matamos.” “¡Bueno!” dijo el sol, “¡Trato hecho! Suéltenlas y ya les traemos comida.” “¡Ah, qué vivo!” contestó la luna. “Si las soltamos, ustedes no van a volver. Hagamos esto: traigan la comida, y mientras nos den bien de comer, no las vamos a matar. Pero ellas se quedan acá. Eso sí, el día que nos quedemos con hambre, ¡zas! Nos comemos una o dos.” Desesperados, los hombres fueron a cazar y volvieron con un montón de carne. Y todos los dás tenían que hacer lo mismo. Cuando los veían acercarse, las mujeres empezaban a golpear los cueros y la carpa y pegar gritos de dolor. Así pasaron meses. Los hombres estaban siempre cansados y cada vez más flacos, porque les dejaban casi toda la comida a las mentirosas. Y, para colmo, sufrían mucho, preocupados por ellas. Cada tanto, las mujeres organizaban en la carpa una ceremonia llamada hain, después de la cual las nenas eran consideradas adultas. Padres y hermanos debían llevar a las chicas hasta allí y quedare mirando

desde afuera. Adentro, las enmascaradas se sacaban la careta y les contaban el secreto a las muchachas, que se quedaba a vivir con las demás mujeres. Un día el sol se apartó mucho por el bosque, buscando algún animal para cazar, y pasó cerca de un arroyo. A través de las hojas, le pareció sentir unas voces y risas de mujer. Intrigado, se acercó despacio y espió. En la orilla, dos mujeres-la bandurria y la garza-se estaban lavando la pintura de cuerpo, mientras se reían y decian, “Ja, Ja! ¡Qué estúpidos son los hombres! ¡se creen cualquier cosa!” En ese momento el sol entendió todo. Tembló de furia, pero se dio vuelta sin hacer ruido y corrió a llamar a los otros hombres. Juntaron garrotes y fueron a la choza de las mujeres. El sol fue el primero en entrar, rojo de indignación, y se abalanzó sobre la luna. Asustada ella salió corriendo, con su marido detrás. Corrieron, corrieron y llegaron al horizonte. Allí la luna salto al cielo y el sol la siguió. Nunca volvieron a la tierra. Todavía el sol la sigue persiguiendo, sin poder alcanzarla.

Caring for the Strays: Punta Arenas Humane Society The Punta Arenas humane society, La Protectora de Punta Arenas, needs your help! Although they provide critical services for stray animals, they are close to shutting down due to lack of resources. Operating on a very limited budget in a town with a huge population of stray dogs, La Protectora (or Corporacion de la Defensa de los Derechos de los Animales, CODDA) runs the southernmost animal shelter in the world. Founded in 1990 by Señora Elia Tagle to stop the cruel poisoning of stray dogs by the local and federal governments (who used strychnine), the nonprofit runs essential sterilization and educational programs. The shelter literally has only a handful of supporters and volunteers operating in a human population of 120,000 and a stray animal population as high as 15,000.

La Protectora receives no public funding, but they manage to stretch their $20,000 USD per year budget pretty far. On this budget, they operate a shelter with 100-140 dogs and 2-5 cats. Most of their animals are not locked in cages and run around freely in several pens, eating twice daily, playing, and sometimes fighting. La Protectora provides low-cost medical services, discounted spay/neuter, and dignified euthanasia when necessary.With the help of the police, they also respond to cruelty and neglect cases. One of their eductaional projects teaches people about the important responsibility of pet ownership. Another project hosts a group of high school students from the local British School, who are obligated to volunteer in order to graduate. Wondering what you can do to help? You

can help pressure the local and regional governments to support La Protectora. Write a letter to the editor of La Prensa Austral, the Punta Arenas-based regional paper, discussing how this issue affects tourism. The more letters they receive, the more local officials will respond. Draw attention to the issue by speaking with tourist-related businesses, such as travel agencies, tourist offices, and hostels. This helps raise the awareness of locals, who want happy tourists and a good reputation for their town. Financially, you can make a donation. Visit their web site (www.chileaustral.com/perros) with a PayPal account. Or better yet, stop by in person. La Protectora is located on the outskirts of Punta Arenas on the road to Club Andino at Avenida Circunvalación 1950. You can also reach them by calling (56-61) 262607 or writing to perros@chileaustral.com.




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Thinking Globally. Acting locally.

By Sarah Ritter

that exist already and are filling our landfill sites or worse, littering the countryside. Once you get back home, give some of these tips a whirl... •

photo by Agata Malchrowicz

I

f you’ve traveled all the way to Patagonia, you’re probably here to experience the natural beauty of the place--the breathtaking view of Los Cuernos in Torres del Paine, Chile, towering above the turquoise waters of Lake Nordenskjöld, the simple majesty of Fitzroy or El Torre in Glaciers National Park in Argentina. And if you strongly appreciate the natural world, then maybe to a greater or lesser extent you share a concern for its well-being. Torres del Paine and Glaciers National Parks, like all national parks around the world, serve as ambassador for our planet, a reminder of the power and the raw beauty of nature, simple and simultaneously impossibly complex. Parks such as these are so popular for their pristineness. But not for long, what with the unstoppable advance of people. Pause for a minute and compare this place with your own hometown. If you’re a city dweller, your thoughts of home may be paved over with streets, tall buildings, traffic jams, rush and bustle. In Patagonia, you may feel a world away from this reality, but all this coexists in the same planet, a planet in need of care and protection from everyone of us. It is easy to look at the frightening pace of technological progress in the West and the awakening, insatiable appetite for development in the East, and throw our hands up in resignation. What can we do? What impact can any one individual have? But if the actions of each individual combine with those of other individuals, they really can make a difference. This doesn’t mean changing your life. Just being conscious of the environmental impact of

your day-to-day activities and making small changes to reduce that impact is a good place to start. Here are some conservation ideas to take with you while you´re on the road or traveling... •

1. If the water supply is drinkable, refill your water bottle from the tap (or in the Park from any of the fast-flowing mountain streams), rather than buy new plastic bottles of mineral water each time. Plastics are derived from nonrenewable resources, processed using extensive chemical treatments, so as well as being nonbiodegradable, they are very environmentally damaging to produce. Every plastic bottle you throw away is a waste of precious resources. 2. Dispose of used batteries responsibly. Discarded batteries, once they start to break down, leak metals and poisons which can enter watercourses and kill plants and wildlife. Even throwing your batteries in the bin means they end up in a landfill site or worse, disposed of offshore, and will have the same damaging effect there. 3. Avoid buying prepackaged food in the supermarket. Buy loose fruit, vegetables and meat to cut down on the packaging you consume. Packaging uses a lot of natural resources and generally goes straight into the garbage bin once you get home. 4. Take your own bag or backpack to the supermarket so you don’t need to use the plastic bags provided. Plastic bags cannot be recycled and take hundreds of years to biodegrade, so every one you use is adding to the millions

1. Investigate insulating your home as efficiently as possible. This will not only save you money in reduced heating bills but means you will also use less of the planet’s resources. It’s worth checking to see if your government offers grants for home insulation and upgrades to boilers/heating systems to help meet the emissions targets set by the Kyoto agreement and others. • 2. Energy-saving light bulbs are a good step too, but admittedly rather ugly. You could always hide them with a funky lampshade. • 3. Look into available sources of “green” energy for your home. The vast majority of household electricity-generation still uses scarce fossil fuels and generates harmful greenhouse gases. Other options include solar or wind power, which on a small, domestic scale can be very expensive. Alternatively in some countries “green” electricity providers, which generate some if not all of their power through renewable sources, are now entering the market. • 4. Ideally the fewer resources you use the better, but obviously we all use some. So whatever you do use and throw out each week, try to recycle as much as possible, be it paper, glass, plastic, tin or any other material. Look for recycling services in your area, which will give you advice on how to incorporate recycling in your home. • 5. Unfortunately, one of the biggest culprits of environmental damage is travel, especially air travel. As most of us here are far from home and will need to take at least one flight to get back to family and friends, we’ll avoid the guilt trip here. One way to make amends is to join a “carbon neutralization” or “carbonsink” scheme, in which you can pay for trees to be planted on your behalf to absorb carbon released into the environment as a result of your action. Have a look at www.futureforests. com or www.CO2.org for more information. As you continue on to your next destination, may you take with you vivid memories of all you have experienced in this magical place and may they inspire you to care for our fragile planet, on whose well-being this Park, the natural world and our own future depend.

Making and Breaking Camp In Patagonia, most likely all your camping will be at campsites, as camping offtrail is often illegal. Finding privacy may be difficult, so earplugs are a good option. If you do find yourself in a place with the opportunity to free-camp outside of the designated spots, camp on hard, durable surfaces, like rock, gravel, dry grasses or snow. Be sure you camp at least 50 meters away from any water sources, like lakes, rivers or streams. Remember that good campsites are found, not made. It’s not necessary to alter a site. If there is an existing fire ring at your campsite, DO NOT BUILD ANOTHER ONE. Campfires are not permitted in Torres del Paine or Los Glaciares National Parks. Use a lightweight stove for cooking. For light, candle lanterns work great. Leave nature the way you found it, so that others may enjoy it as well. This means that what you pack in, you also pack out. It means you dispose of waste properly, digging 6-8inch deep catholes at least 200 feet away from water, camp and trails. Pack out toilet paper and feminine hygiene products. DO NOT WASH DISHES IN YOUR WATER SOURCE. Collect water and carry it away from its source to do your washing, and use biodegradable soap. When it’s time to break camp and move on, make sure you don’t forget anything. Once the backpacks are packed and the tents are stowed, everyone should make a sweep of the camp, looking for anything left behind, like binoculars hanging in the tree or small trash, like a small ripped corner of a candy bar. Check where the packs were and where the kitchen was. Don’t be afraid to pick up a piece of garbage that wasn’t yours. Leave the campsite the way you would want to find it if you were camping there next. Replace any rocks or large, natural pieces of wood you might have moved. Then, ask yourself some questions. How can I reduce my impact? Was it obvious were the tent was? Was vegetation crushed permanently, or will it pop up again easily. Is there any micro-trash left to be picked up? Did I create any new and unnecessary trails? Examining your camp before you leave it, is a great way to see how you can do it better next time.


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Puerto Natales, Chile POPULATION: 19,000 FOUNDED: 1911 WHAT’S GROOVY: Laguna Sofía for climbing, kayaking & swimming. JUST IN CASE: 131 (ambulance), 132 (fire), 133 (police)

Puerto Natales is a city in the Chilean Patagonia, located 247 km (153 mi) northwest of Punta Arenas and is the final port of call for the Navimag ferry sailing from Puerto Montt into the Señoret Channel as well as the primary transit point for travelers to Torres del Paine National Park, Chile. It is the capital of both the commune of the same name and the Última Esperanza Province of Magallanes and Antártica Chilena Region. Última Esperanza Sound, originally inhabited by the Kawésqar tribe or Alacaluf and the Aonikenk or Tehuelche, was sailed in 1557 by Juan Ladrilleros, a sailor who was looking for the Strait of Magellan. The city was

    questions & answers

at the corner of Bulnes and Pratt. After hours, call (cell) 09 418 4100 or (home) 412 591. Where can I buy camping food in town? Don Bosco and Abu Gosch are both on the main streets of Baquedano and Bulnes, respectively.

If I arrive to Natales from Ushuaia or on the last bus from Punta Arenas, can I still catch the bus to Torres del Paine first thing the next day?

Where can I buy white gas? The pharmacies carry clean white gas.You can find them in the outdoor and building material stores.

settled by Germans, British, Croatian and Chilean people coming from the Island of Chiloé, all attracted by the sheep-raising industry. Finally, the city was founded under the government of Ramón Barros Luco on May 31, 1911. Nowadays, one of the most important activities is tourism. Because Puerto Natales was not started as a tourist town, the history of the region can be seen by walking the back streets and coastal dirt roads. A bike ride in any direction can be rewarding as well. If you have a day or two to burn, before or after your trek in Paine, there are many day tours that can be booked from muliple agencies in the downtown area.

Torres del Paine questions? A free information seminar is held everyday at erratic rock hostel at 3 p.m. -Baquedano 719, Puerto Natales, Chile. Everything is covered, from refugio info to free campsites, meals to equipment. This 1.5 hour talk is given in english and comes with a smile.

Does Black Sheep sell T-shirts? Where can I find them?

This really depends on how ready you are. We recommend waiting for the second bus into the Park (which only runs during high season) or just taking a prep day in Natales during low season to rent any gear you need and do your food shop.

Yes! Get ‘em hot off the press at La Maddera (on the corner of Pratt and Bulnes). What about shopping hours midday?

If I arrive here on Navimag, can I still hit the trail first thing the next morning?

Between 12 and 3 p.m. everything is pretty locked down, except for the Abu G.

This depends on sea conditions and arrival times. Plus see above answer and Torres del Paine Q&A.

What are the winters like around here?

What is Navimag?

Calm, blue, clear, freezing and beautiful.

Navimag is the weekly ferry service (which originally just brought goods to the extreme parts of Chile from the north.) Now it shuttles travelers from between Natales and Puerto Montt.

Why is there so much trash on the beach?

Is there a place where I can rent or buy equipment in a pinch, 24 hours a day?

Batteries are recycled and collected in various containers throughout town, including at the Post Office. As yet, all other recycling for the season is still at a standstill. The city is working on a glass recycling program that should be up and running

That’s a great question...You could always help and pick some up. What about recycling programs?

Yep! La Maddera Outdoor Store runs a 24-hour hotline for all your 2 a.m. gear emergencies. Duruing regular business hours, you can find them

It depends on where you are. Sometimes it’s fine to flush it, but if it says not to, DON’T! A bit gross and bizarre, but the pipes from yester-year just can’t handle it. Why do all the girls here wear those uniform mini-skirts to school in such a cold and windy place? It’s one of life’s mysteries, but we are pretty sure it was a man’s idea. What’s up with all the military guys walking around town? There’s a military base located outside of town. And all of the dogs running around?

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Depends on your budget and your destination. Public transportation is always a good idea when possible, but there’s a lot of Patagonia out there that can’t be accessed by public transportation. To see those places, getting a few people to pitch in for a

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Punta Arenas Rio Turbio, Argentina Trekking Dorotea

Chileans down here talk super fast and use a whole lotta slang. What is a “Zodiac”? A motorized rubber raft, used for various types of trips in southern Chile, including navegating the upper Serrano River heading into Torres del Paine.

Why can’t I flush my toilet paper down the toilet? Do I really have to throw it in the waste basket?!

How much do the taxis cost?

Puerto Natales, Chile

Why do I seem to understand LESS Spanish in Chile than anywhere else?

within the next month. For more information, contact the Cámara de Turismo.

Half of them are street dogs, half of them are owned but run free anyway. Together they make more street dogs. It’s a circle of life thing... Canal Señoret

car can make for a unique experience.

Get your Black Sheep T-shirt now! Bulnes 495 Puerto Natales, Chile

W as h ing W it h D irt Fat. Fat and grease. We love it. Even if you don’t think you love it, you actually do. Whether you are a vegetarian or not, we all crave foods that hold some kind of fat; the grease on meat, the oils in avacados, the whole cream in ice cream. We not only like it, we need it. We need it for energy while trekking. A couple of facts: 1.) Soaps are a threat to fresh water supplies. It´s best not to use these products at all. 2.) Cold stream or lake water turns left over greases on dishes into a thick, lard-like glue (impossible to remove without soap & water)... or is it? Here’s the trick: take your dirty dinner dishes to an area of sand or small rocks, grab a fist-full of dirt, and scrub! The small granuals of dirt and pebbles will absorb all the oils from your meal and will remove almost any difficult foods. Even burnt dinner pots clean up quickly with gravel! Your pots and dishes are left with nothing more than a clean coat of dust that is easily rinsed with only a small amount of water, soap-free!


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Formal Attire Hits Patagonia Every year in mid-September, the first black and white heads timidly pop out of the cold water from the Strait of Magellan. Spring has begun and soon the first brave Magellanic Penguin steps onto one of Patagonia’s lone pebble beaches, just like their anscesters have done for thousands of years. Only males arrive at the beginning, but it doesn’t take long for the females to join the males and start finding their soul mates for the sole but definite purpose of reproduction. They then stay all summer until their chicks are big enough to join their parents at the end of March on their long journey north. There are five colonies that you can visit around Punta Arenas: Seno Otway, Isla Magdalena, Cabo Virgenes, Tucker Islet, and Ruppert Islet. All of contain the same species: Magellanic Penguins (Spheniscus magellanicus). So what are your options? Pretty much all tour operators and travel agencies in Punta Arenas offer daily departures to Seno Otway in the afternoon, from 4:00 to 5:00 p.m., picking folks up at their accommodations. It’s an hour drive through the Patagonian pampas to reach private property, where about 11,000 penguins nest. The landlord officially opened his terrain for visitors on October 15, 2007, and will close it up at the end of March, when the penguins start to head north.This year, the entrance fee at Seno Otway is 4.500 pesos. There’s also a fee of 1.000 pesos to use the private road, the only way to access the colony. The ferry boat that connects Punta Arenas and Porvenir takes you to Isla Magdalena on Tuesdays,Thursdays, and Saturdays, but it doesn’t start operating until the end of November or beginning of December. There’s about 120,000 penguins on Isla

Magdalena. This excursion begins at “Tres Puentes” port, which you can reach from downtown Punta Arenas by hopping on one of the colectivos, either nº 15 or 20. The price for this tour will be 20.000 pesos, including entrance fee. Every day at 7:00 a.m. and 5:00 p.m. (weather permitting), you can catch a fast zodiac boat across the Strait of Magellan to Isla Magdalena and Isla Marta. The latter island is home to about 1,000 sea lions, who consider Isla Magdalena their special penguin restaurant. This is an adventurous yet safe alternative to the ferry. Price: 32.000 pesos, including the shuttle transfer from/to Punta Arenas and to/from the dock, and the entrance fee. The Eastern entrance of the Strait of Magellan is called Cabo Virgenes. Nearby, on Argentine soil, is a penguin colony that is said to be the second largest in South America (after Punta Tombo), with about 200,000 birds. It is best reached by joining a tour from Río Gallegos or by renting a car and driving the dirt road southeast of Río Gallegos yourself. It’s a pretty large distance, but the chances that you and the penguins will be the only ones there are pretty good! Price from Río Gallegos: 120 Argentinian pesos plus 15ARP entrance fee. A visit to Tucker Islet is only possible by joining one of the weekly expedition cruises from Punta Arenas to Ushuaia onboard the Mare Australis or Via Australis. Prices for the 5 day/4 night cruise start at USD 1,150 per person. To get there, you can join a Humpback Whale Watching tour that runs from December to April from/to Punta Arenas.The penguin colony has an estimated 20,000 members. This season’s prices for the 3 day/2 night all-inclusive tour is USD 900 per person.

The new season of formal wear brings back the classic look, black on plumy white, with full-length coattails. The younger generation (not pictured) will sport soft grey pullovers until summer fashion season hits.


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Aquaterra Lodge • Puerto Natales, Chile

Injured on Vacation?

Not the adventure you are looking for... Preparation is key in preventing many trekking injuries. Here’s how you can prepare yourself and avoid injuries this season. HYDRATE

Miraflores 798 Phone 74502944

Phone +56 61 412239 • Bulnes 299 • Puerto Natales, Chile

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SOSIEGO HOSTEL puerto natales, chile

Just because it’s cold and wintry, doesn’t mean you can afford to skimp on the water. Water regulates body temperature, helps transport nutrients and removes toxins from muscles, not to mention human’s are 90% water. Start drinking plenty of water the day before your big snow day, trek, or rigorous exercise. Carry a water bottle with you during your winter activities, and remember to drink regularly throughout the day, even when you don’t feel thirsty. Schedule sip breaks if need be. FUEL UP

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The Milodon Laundry Service

Drop your pants here. Drop off before noon for same-day service. Closed Sundays. Open 10 a.m.-12 p.m. & 2:30 p.m.-8:00 p.m. Phone 413466 • Baquedano 642, Puerto Natales, Chile

1 and 2 day tours though Patagonian fjords & canals. A true insiders guided tour. Visit our website for details.

4HE $ R I E D & R U I T 'UY "AQUEDANO

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Winter sports are physically demanding and quickly deplete your body’s energy. Bring snacks that are high in and protein and carbs, such as energy bars, granola, fruits, sandwiches, or chunky soups in a thermos. LAYER YOUR CLOTHING This will allow you to alter your temperature throughout the day and adjust to the changing weather. Your first layer should be polypropylene or a synthetic fabric that dries quickly and absorbs sweat. Make sure the outermost layer is wind- and water-resistant. Keep spare dry clothes on hand, just in case, as wet clothes don’t retain heat. EQUIP YOURSELF One of the main causes of severe lower extremity injuries in skiing is bindings that don’t release properly during falls. Make sure that your bindings work properly before hitting the slopes. Wrist fractures are the most common injuries in snowboarding, and they occur when snowboarders try to break their fall with outstretched arms. Wrist braces may be worth considering. PROTECT YOUR EYES Wear goggles or sunglasses to decrease glare from the sun.You’ll be able to see the terrain better.These will also protect your eyes from snow, wind, rain, ice and debris. KNOW YOUR LIMITS Injuries most commonly occur when you are fatigued—your muscles are weakened and your reaction times diminished—so take breaks and give your body time to recuperate throughout the day. Recognize your limitations and don’t push it too far in one outing. You’re likelihood of injury increases if you are performing skills that you’re body isn’t ready for. WARM UP

torres del paine tested in patagonia

www.senderoalacalufe.com

sendero-alacalufe@hotmail.com Puerto Natales, Chile • Ph 56 61 414747

New clothing from the heart of Patagonia Baquedano 622 Pto Natales, Chile info@torresdelpaine-store.cl +56-61 614310

Cold muscles, tendons, and ligaments are at increased risk of energy, so be sure to perform comprehensive warm ups before you start your activity. If you’re skiing or snowboarding, take a few easy jogs first to loosen and warm your muscles. It’s easier to prevent injuries than to rehabilitate from them. Be smart, and listen to your body. Don’t overdo it. But remember: even the best-prepared athletes may still suffer injuries. Should you get injured, seek medical attention as soon as possible. Early intervention almost always precipitates a quicker recovery.

D r i n k yo u r f i l l o f wat e r While trekking or climbing, the idea is to drink about three to four liters a day. But this really depends on where you are and what you are doing. In a hot desert, you´d probably want to double this, but a rest day at camp in mild weather would require less. A good way to monitor your hydration level is to look at your urine output: Clear and copious is what you’re looking for. Bold yellow urine is a sure sign of dehydration, but remember that some vitamins will turn urine bright yellow; that´s different. If you’re feeling thirsty, then you’re already lacking up to a liter of water, and may have lost up to 20 percent of your endurance. Headaches or cramping are also signs of dehydration. Take time to drink. Don´t feel pressured by the clock or the team´s agenda. A clever group will schedule in regular drink breaks together. It´s better to drink small amounts of water over time than to guzzle down a liter in one sitting. This gives your body time to absorb the water, which is why it´s so important to continually drink all day. Torres del Paine is one of the last great destinations in the world where you CAN drink water fresh from streams and creeks along its trail. So, bottoms up!

Temporada de Pesca en Patagonia 16 de Octubre al 14 de Abril La licencia de “Aguas Continentales” y la de “Aguas Marinas,” ambas son válidas para chilenos y residentes. En el caso de los extranjeros, existe una licencia anual única, la cual se puede adquirir en la oficina de SERNAPESCA, Yungay 361- Punta Natales o 21 de mayo 149, Punta Arenas. Valor de la Licencia Aguas continentales (todo Chile)... • Chilenos y residentes 0,7 UF (aprox. $14.000) • Extranjeros 1,5 UF (aprox. $30.000) • Valor Licencia aguas marítimas $1050 (todo Chile) Lugares para pescar natales y alrededores... LAGUNA SOFÍA • Ubicación: A 30 Km. de Natales, camino Norte. • Especies: Trucha Marrón o Café y Trucha Arcoiris, se tienen antecedentes de especies provenientes de cultivo Salmón Chinook y Coho. Lago Balmaceda • Ubicación: A 40 Km. al Sur de Natales. • Especies: Trucha Marrón o Café y Trucha Arcoiris. Río Hollemberg • Ubicación: A 25 Km. al Sur de Natales. • Especies: Trucha Marrón o Café y Trucha Arcoiris. Lago Pinto • Ubicación: A 50 Km. app. al Sur de Natales. • Especies: Trucha Marrón o Café. Lago del Toro • Ubicación: A 80 Km. de Natales. En el Parque Nacional Torres del Paine. • Especies: Trucha Marrón o Café y Trucha Arcoiris. Río Serrano • Ubicación: A 168 Km. de Natales, Parque Nacional Torres del Paine. Nace del lago Toro y desemboca en Seno Última Esperanza. • Especies: Trucha Marrón y Trucha Arcoiris. • Captura histórica: 20.000 kg


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Quick (and dirt cheap) getaways. Bike.

In just a half day of biking, you can have a “so close, but so far away” view of Puerto Natales and its surroundings. All you need is a bike, a picnic, and your camera. If you follow the road by the sea, going in the exact opposite direction of everyone else (who will all be going to the Park), you will pass the main dock. Keep pedaling until the pavement turns into dirt. When you get to where all the fishing boats are, you will have to turn down some streets, but always try to keep closest to the sea (if you get lost, just ask anyone how to get to “El Camino a Dumestre”). You will reach a dirt road out of town, and as you get farther away from the town, all of the mountains will start to show you how tremendous they really are, and how endless ly they careen by the sea. The

Por Max Vergara farther you get, the greater your view of the different mountains will be. On a clear day, you’ll see Tenerife, Prat, Chacabuco, Ballena, Cordillera Moore, and even the Caín Mountains of the beautiful Roca Peninsula. If you come prepared, you can even camp along the beach. The law in Chile states that no one can own the edges of the ocean, fjords, or lakes. A two-day bike ride, with all your kit, is a great way to see a quieter (and cheaper) Patagonia. Puerto Natales claims some of the best views in Chile and should not be missed. Biking south, out of town, will serve you an unforgettable helping of eye-candy. If this sounds nice, but you’re still unsure, ask yourself this simple question: When do you think you’ll be back?

Foot. Waiting for a bus to Calafate? Got a few hours to kill before heading to Punta Arenas? Love Puerto Natales and planning on staying here? If you are looking for a way to spend a nice half day in Natales, go on a two-hour hike up Cerro Dorotea, definitely on the top of the list of activities around here. Pack up your camera, rent a bike or hail a taxi. If taking a taxi, ask them to drop you off at Mirador Dorotea. If you’re not in a rush, you can just hitchhike the approximately 9 km to the Mirador. If you bike to Dorotea, take the road toward Punta Arenas and keep a lookout for the sign “Cerro Mirador Dorotea.” It’s a 15-minute taxi ride to the southern side of Dorotea. When you arrive, you’ll

Sobre la Patagonia Se Ha Escrito Mucho

have to pay the woman who lives in the house there about $3.000 pesos. This gives you permission to cross her property, and assures that a light meal with tea will be waiting for you when you return from hiking up the hill. Boot it on up the trail. It’s well-marked and takes you through the forest and up to the top of the east-facing cliffs that overlook Puerto Natales. From the view point, you catch a great view of Natales and Seno Última Esparanza. On a clear day, the view of the Paine Massif and surrounding mountains is gorgeous. After exploring the ridgeline, head back down to enjoy your lunch and chat with the property owner.

Una de las tantas riquezas de esta zona se encuentran entre las hojas de los diferentes libros que nos cuentan sus aventuras, vivencias y experiencias en torno a este pedazo de tierra que es tan especial. La prolífica producción literaria es maravillosa. Es un placer entrar a cualquiera de esas tiendas de libros y enfrentarse a tanta variedad de temas, fotos, generos, ediciones y portadas. No creo que exista otra región de Chile que concentre tanto material literario en el cual se refleja tan bien a su gente, sus paisajes y su historia. Para conocer bien a esta Patagonia simplemente hay que leerla (y caminarla y conversarla también). Una forma de introducirse en la historia Patagónica, conocer sus orígenes, sus raíces, es leyendo los varios libros que existen a modo de resumen. Esta vez me voy a detener en dos libros que son especialmente fáciles de leer, completos e interesantes. Lamentablemente la historia de nuestra Patagonia está manchada de sangre. No solo la sangre de los indígenas riega estas tierras, primeros habitantes de la región, que fueron cazados y exterminados por el solo hecho de no ser como los occidentales que vinieron a poblar esta tierra. Desde un comienzo de la historia moderna de Punta Arenas y Ultima Esperanza, el inicio fue oscuro y sombrío. En el siglo XIX, dos grandes acontecimientos, sublevaciones y motines, derramaron la sangre de los pioneros y primeros colonos del fin del mundo. “Cambiazo, el Ultimo Pirata del Estrecho” es un libro escrito por Armando Braun Menéndez, donde se relata la historia de este convicto que, el 17 de noviembre de 1851 levanta a un grupo de amotinados y se toma lo que en esa época era el penal de Punta Arenas. Cerca de 300 hombre fueron guiados por este ser, un hombre de inconcebible crueldad y sadismo, asesino desalmado, borrachín pendenciero, ladrón y codicioso. Una vez dominado el Cuartel de la

Guarnición y tomado el control de la ciudad. apresaron a las autoridades locales, menos al gobernador Muñoz Gamero, que alcanzó a huir junto al párroco de la colonia. Las correrías y pillerías de estos piratas casi llevan a la ciudad a la destrucción total. Por mientras el gobernador Muñoz Gamero había escapado en un bote que lo había arrastrado hacia Tierra del Fuego y ahí tuvo que luchar contra los constantes ataques de los indígenas de la zona.Valientemente decidió volver a la colonia, donde fue apresado y después fusilado. Aquel motín fue la pesadilla de media generación. Cambiazo fue fusilado en Valparaíso en 1852 a la vista del público en el Cerro de la Cárcel. En fin, el relato del libro es muy ameno, ágil y mantiene el interés en cada una de sus 292 páginas y además contiene interesantes detalles, descripciones, fotografías e ilustraciones de cómo era la vida en Punta Arenas en esa época. Otro libro de Braun Menéndez es “El Motín de los Artilleros,” donde relata la sublevación de un grupo de desertores, que el día 11 de noviembre de 1877, dieron comienzo a la matanza, violación y destrucción de la colonia con un llamativo tiro de salva para poner en aviso a todos que la “fiesta” había comenzado. Tres días de borrachera, saqueo y matanza nuevamente marcaron a la población, que debió escapar aterrorizada a los bosques cercanos a la ciudad y permanecer ahí escondidos bajo una lluvia que no paró de caer. Dublé Almeyda era el gobernador de esa época. El logró escapar hacia el Seno Skyring, donde fue recogido por la Corbeta Magallanes y así regresó a la colonia y puso fin a esta sublevación. Nuevamente el relato fluye generando interés página tras página, con descripciones que son un reflejo a lo que realmente fue el vivir de los primeros colonos. Altamente recomendable para gente que gusta de la historia y de viajar en el tiempo.

Traducciones

del español al inglés Páginas web, folletos, etc.

Carolina Wilson cel 89867596 Puerto Natales, Chile cjwilson07@gmail.com

Bulnes 622 & Bulnes 555 Puerto Natales, Chile phone 56-61 410931 & 415860 miriamparra_s@hotmail.com

Lodge • Home • Restaurant

Camino a Bories, Km 0.5 Puerto Natales, Chile (56 61) 414 168 www.weskar.cl contacto@weskar.cl

Sights and sunsets from Patagonia Puerto Natales waterfront, 500 meters from the ‘Big Milodon.’


October.08

14

w w w. p a t a g o n i a b l a c k s h e e p . c o m

The

Planet Patagonia. Es tiempo de decidir. Es hora de hacer algo por Puerto Natales, por nuestra Tierra. Es el momento de hacer algo por nuestros hijos y algo por nosotros mismos. Los problemas que afectan al medio ambiente no se encuentran al otro lado de nuestro planeta, son parte de nuestro diario vivir. Es por esto que la Cámara de Turismo de Última Esperanza en conjunto con Sernatur, la Asociación de Guías de Última Esperanza, la Asociación Ecopatagonia y muchos amigos del medio ambiente, han iniciado una Campaña llamada “DESEMBOLSATE” que tiene por finalidad invitar a los vecinos de Puerto Natales a rescatar del baúl de la abuelita la clásica bolsa de género o la malla para la feria que antiguamente se usaba. No nos queremos quedar de brazos cruzados es por esto que hemos comenzado este movimiento para eliminar las abundantes bolsas plásticas. Estas, junto a miles de envases desechables y muchos otros elementos, han llenado nuestras casas y ensuciado las calles, playas, parques naturales, océanos, etc. El mundo entero esta cubriéndose por estos fantasmas de polietileno y nylon a una velocidad imparable. Cientos de animales de todas las especies mueren diariamente por asfixia, envenenamiento y estrangulación producida por alguno de estos elementos. ¿Que estamos esperando para hacer algo? No sólo queremos decir que no queremos más bolsas, sino que además debemos actuar activamente para cambiar este sistema de contaminación silencioso.Tu también puedes ser parte de este movimiento y así lo esperamos, queremos que nos hagas llegar tus ideas para desarrollar este proyecto.

¿SABIAS QUE? Las bolsas de plástico, fabricadas con polietileno, se  demoran entre 100 y 1000 años, en degradarse. En China, diariamente se utilizan dos mil millones de bolsas. En Chile se estima que al año el comercio nos entrega nada más ni nada menos que la cantidad de 3.000.000.000 de bolsas plásticas. El 90% de todas esas bolsas plásticas termina simplemente en un vertedero, siendo la mayoría de las veces utilizada solo para llevar productos del supermercado hasta la casa. La vida útil real de estas bolsas, se resume en el 90% de los casos a 20 minutos, el tiempo promedio que tardamos en llegar desde el lugar en donde compramos a nuestro hogar, luego de esto su destino automático es el vertedero Miles de bolsas se fabrican por minuto, estas son útiles solo durante otros pocos minutos, pero luego, tardaran entre 500 y mil años en desaparecer del medio ambiente. Esas bolsas son las mismas que actualmente afean el paisaje de Puerto Natales y todos sus alrededores.Todos sabemos que causan daño al medio ambiente--directo e indirecto--pero las seguimos usando. Este panorama comienza a cambiar porque nosotros decidimos cambiar: 1) Usa bolsas de genero o de malla (como las que usaban las abuelitas) para hacer tus compras. 2) Rechaza la bolsita plastica que te dan en el comercio hasta por comprar un chicle. 3) Si eres comerciante ofrece bolsas de papel o pidele a tus clientes que lleven sus bolsas. Más información Cámara de Turismo Ultima Esperanza: camaraturismoue@yahoo.com

People, profit, PLANET Since 1985, the clothing and outdoor company Patagonia has pledged 1% of sales to the preservation and restoration of the natural environment. They’ve awarded over 31 million dollars in cash and in-kind donations to domestic and international grassroots enviro groups making a difference in their local communities. Now the founder of Patagonia,Yvon Chouinard, and Craig Mathews, owner of Blue Ribbon Flies, have created a non-profit corporation with the sole purpose of encouraging businesses to give back to the environment. 1% For The Planet is an alliance of businesses that understand the necessity of protecting the natural environment. They understand that profit and loss are directly linked to the health of our environment. In addition, these businesses

are concerned with the social and environmental impacts of industry. If you’re a business owner (or have any influence over your boss) please consider becoming a member of this socially and environmentally progressive group. By contributing 1% of net annual sales to grassroots enviro groups, members of 1% For The Planet affect real change. And members receive other benefits: The satisfaction of paving the way for more corporate responsibility in the business community and the recognition, support and patronage of conscientious consumers who value serious commitment to the environment. To learn more about 1% For The Planet, check out www.onepercentfortheplanet.org

Non-native Scentless Chamomille runs ramant and lovely in the meadow valleys of Torres del Paine

Non-Native Wild Flowers Invading Patagonia No, that dandelion is not supposed to be here. And neither is that clover. And that scentless chamomile? An outsider as well. These plant species, and a number of others, made their way to Patagonia years ago and, quite literally, put down roots. Some biologists estimate around 25 percent of the plant species in some parts of Torres del Paine National Park originated elsewhere. “Invasive species are going to continue arriving as a consequence of tourism,” said botanist Osvaldo Vidal, author of the guide Flora Torres del Paine and a doctoral student in Germany, speaking in Spanish. “This is clear.” Many of the invasive grasses and ground covers found in Patagonia were introduced as forage for livestock, and many of the flowers were brought over for ornamentation purposes. Other plants arrived by accident:Their seeds rode into the region in the fur, feathers or intestines of animals, or the shoes, clothing, tents or cars of humans. Most came from Europe. Some of the most common invasive species in Torres del Paine today are Poison Hemlock, Red Sorrel, Scentless Chamomile, Silver Hairgrass and Spotted Catsear. Invasive plants have earned a bad reputation in the scientific community for

By Christina Cooke

their tendency to change ecological patterns and displace their native counterparts. Few, if any, studies have been conducted to determine the effects of the invaders in Patagonia, however. Morty Ortega, a professor at the University of Connecticut who has conducted research in the park since 1977, said he considers most of the invasive grasses and ground covers in Patagonia more useful than threatening. “Perhaps the most dangerous ones are those that are brought as ornamentals and escape because of their aggressive nature,” he said, citing a fast-spreading, white-flowered plant named cicuta as a prime example. He described the plant as both poisonous and useless. Human visitors, hikers especially, are the single greatest threat to the native Patagonian ecosystem today, Vidal and Ortega agree. In addition to unknowingly spreading seeds, they compact the soil, making it ill suited for fragile native species and ideal for hearty invaders. So, as you trek through Torres del Paine National Park this season, do your part to slow the invasion.Stay on established campsites and trails, and wash seeds from your clothes and supplies before you arrive and after you leave. That way, Patagonia can stay Patagonia, and stop evolving into the countryside outside your hometown.

Water.

Drink up, without the plastic. Most travelers believe tap water is never drinkable, even at home. Better avoid drinking water from rivers and streams or you’ll fall victim to all sorts of waterborne illnesses, like diarrhea, e coli infection, or cholera, you know, “beaver fever.” We can thank the water-bottling companies and the media attention they get for a lot of this fear. But in places, like Torres del Paine and most of the Fitz Roy area, not only is it completely safe to drink the water, but it also tastes delicious: fresh, clean, better than water out of any plastic bottle! As someone who tries to protect the environment, you might be appalled to learn that plastic water bottles account for 80% of all plastic trash collected in Patagonia. This is completely unnecessary. Patagonia’s national parks are burdened under the mountain of trash that is produced in them on a daily basis.

So, please do yourself and pachamama (Mother Earth) a favor: Save your precious pesos, and leave the two-liter bottles of flashy imported water in the store. Fill your cup with the glacier-fed goodness of Patagonia’s still-pristine, cool clean water. When you get back to town, if you’re staying someplace where the water is deemed safe for drinking, ask for “agua de la llave,” or just help yourself to a glass of sweet H2O from the tap. Better still, spend your saved cash on a couple of local beers-brewed with the same natural freshwater--sans plastic. If you are staying in a place where the water drinkability factor is questionable, just boil the tap water and fill your Nalgene or other reusable water bottle with the boiled water. Or invest in a water filter. Over the long run this will save you money, not to mention saving the landfills tons of plastic.


Newspaper October 2008