her own couture house and is now working with many great names, such as Swarovski, and on her own perfume. She says, “I am aware that, at a time where institutional brands often become very safe, creatively ‘wise’, the fashion scene is fishing for fresh blood and for new proposals.” Across the Atlantic, the acknowledgement is the same. Saroya Norris is a proud New Yorker, blogger and owner of an online jewelry store, Rich&Rebellious: “The industry can’t only repeat itself, it has to evolve. If I can, I want to contribute to what’s next!” While their elders are more cautious with the market’s evolution and the whim of its clients, the young generation is taking advantage of its effrontery and candor: “It is definitely the age of entrepreneurial skills and self promotion,” Saroya maintains, “At a time when the job market was scarce, it seemed to be the best to make my own way. The timing was just right. There’s always a question on how your company will be perceived and if it will do well, but mine is built on the concept of fearlessness.” HARD TIMES AND SUCCESS Despite Saroya’s positive attitude, having the best intention is certainly not an “open-sesame” in a sector renowned for its harshness—and even cruelty— and all those fashion offshoots are not received on an equal footing. The
brothers Elicha for example, have easily launched their preppy rock label, The Kooples, in Europe; easily because their parents are the creators of the successful French brand, Le Comptoir des Cotonniers. When you are not “son of” or “daughter of,” it is another song. But it forces youngsters to push the limits. Sara Battaglia started creating bags at 16, and, at 25, she decided to create her own label in Milan, Italy: “In the beginning, it is difficult because people think
MODERNITY AND DEDICATION OF SOME ENLIGHTENED SPIRITS HAVE ALLOWED A FRUITFUL HARVEST, STIMULATED BY THE GROWTH OF THE INTERNET, AND THE UNEXPECTED AFTERMATH OF THE FINANCIAL CRISIS...THE YOUNG GENERATION WANTS TO TAKE ITS DESTINY IN HAND AND TO SHAKE THIS WORLD. famous brands are safer, they want to recognize a logo.” Indeed, young designers have to work harder to prove that their shoulders are strong enough to carry the pressure and to prove their reliability, rewarded only by their steadfastness and passion for their art. Now, Sara’s creations are often featured in popular magazines across Europe and United States, and have been seen on
the arm of celebrities. Others have more than one trick in their bag. The name of Nicola Formichetti was unknown to the public until it was placed next to a certain Lady Gaga. The pair decided to collaborate, and he became her official stylist and éminence grise. The rest is well known. If Gaga is one of the undeniable figures of fashion, she is also a genuine master key for Formichetti, who has since been appointed new creative director of Parisian fashion house Thierry Mugler and of Uniqlo, along with many other honors. A clever way to avoid years of internships and of hard labour, but we don’t always have an eccentric singer at hand. Difficulty goes up a notch when uprooting comes into play, as is the case of the majority of young workers in today’s world. The usual clash between small towns and big cities has been accentuated by the restriction of success in major locales. Victoria Rangayah is the head of rising label Z Mode, introduced at London Fashion Week in September of 2010. The Lithuanian-born young woman won her spurs in Johannesburg, South Africa before settling in England: “It took me some time to adjust to the UK fashion industry. It wasn’t an easy start for me as I had to build contacts and establish working relationships from scratch.” Material constraints are not the only fate of young owner/managers. David Benoliel, a 35-year-old Parisian settled in Miami, met another type
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: Portrait of designer Yiqing Yin, photographed by Laurence Laborie; a look from Yin’s F/W 11/12 collection; the Regiona Teodolinda bag from Sara Battaglia’s F/W 11/12 collection; a piece from the Rich&Rebellious jewelry collection; portrait of Rich&Rebellious designer Saroya Norris. OPPOSITE: portrait of designer Sara Battaglia.
Published on May 16, 2011
Happy Birthday to us! To celebrate our one-year anniversary we made sure to fill our pages with provocative content and plenty of eye candy....