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“PERFECTING THE ART OF DRESSING WELL SINCE 1969”TM

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MAGAZINE B U B B LY G O O D S E N S E ETON SPRING/SUMMER 2013 T H E WAT C H M A K E R ’ S WAT C H M A K E R T I M E T R AV E L A QUESTION OF LOVE

JACK VICTOR SPRING/SUMMER 2013 • ISSUE 17


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Welcome to the Spring/Summer 2013 edition of The Clotherie Magazine. As always,, we would like to thank each and every one of you, our loyal customers, for your patronage and support. As we swing into spring we welcome the newness of the season; flowers blooming, bees buzzing, and spirits rising. A refreshed feeling of optimism spills into the fashions of the season with a fantastic array of color. After a dark season of greys, blacks and browns, the latest designer suits and sport jackets are splashed in color. We’ve complemented them with colorful and vibrant shirts, neckwear, and a fabulous shoe collection to boot. The Clotherie is proud and excited to announce that the grand opening of our two new stores, BONAFIDE GOODS and R & R SURPLUS at UNION at The Biltmore has been a huge success! Conveniently located directly across from The Clotherie, these innovative concept stores inspire a new trend in fashion for the community. Stop by and check out the great goods at all of our stores. We hope you enjoy our latest issue of The Clotherie Magazine with a variety of articles on fashion, entertainment, travel, and so much more. Catch up on the latest happenings at The Biltmore (p. 6) and news from The Clotherie (p. 8). A special thanks to those who participated in our Clothes 4 Soles holiday drive…it was a HUGE SUCCESS! The clothing was donated to victims from Hurricane Sandy. We would also like to thank those who partner with us, locally and abroad, for helping make our magazine possible. We encourage you to do business locally with each of the world-class companies represented in this issue. The prestigious Esquire Magazine once again voted The Clotherie one of the “Best in Class” retail stores in the nation. We are honored for this mark of achievement. We thank you once again for voting us as the #1 men’s fashion store in Arizona. This is the 16th consecutive year we have been honored with the distinction as the prestigious “Best Men’s Store” by Ranking Arizona. Don’t forget to cast your vote this year by logging onto www.rankingarizona.com. We look forward to seeing you in the store soon! Warmest personal regards, Greg P.S. Please join us for our Spring Promotion by bringing in an old (clean) suit or sport jacket and pants to receive $300 off a purchase of $900 or more. One certificate per customer; not applicable on previous purchases, sale merchandise, special orders, gift cards, or alterations. Must bring in clothing items at time of purchase in order to receive offer. Expires June 1st Clothing will be donated to Scottsdale Boys and Girls Club.

2 5 0 2 E . C A M E L B AC K R OA D • P H O E N I X , A R I Z O N A 8 5 0 1 6 • T E L : 6 0 2 9 5 6 8 6 0 0 • W W W. T H E C L O T H E R I E . C O M


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16 Time Travel A guided tour through Switzerland traveling along The Watch Trail

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Welcome

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The Clotherie News & Events

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Bubbly Good Sense

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Eton Spring/Summer 2013

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Time Travel

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Alberto–Celebrating 90 Years

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BMW Gran Coupe

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Lipson Shirtmakers

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Vividly Vibrant & Red Carpet Ready

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A Question of Love

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The Watchmaker’s Watchmaker

Todd Tufts • Editor in Chief, Publisher Leslie C. Smith • Editorial Director

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Vence Vida • Production Manager The Clotherie Magazine is published by Tufts Communications, 1201 E. 5th Street, Suite 1009 • Anderson, IN 46012 T: 765-608-3081 • E: todd@tuftscom.com © 2013, Tufts Communications. All rights reserved.

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Celebrating 90 Years of Design & Innovation


of the town

EVENTS AT THE CLOTHERIE

DONALD PLINER, GARDEUR, AND TULLIANI TRUNK SHOW EVENT AT THE CLOTHERIE The multi-trunk show event was held in November, 2012 with representatives from each of the fabulous companies. It was a huge success as we showcased Donald Pliner shoes, Gardeur jeans, and Tulliani belts, jewelry, and unique, embellished umbrellas.

CLOTHES 4 SOULS Our holiday Clothes 4 Soles drive was a HUGE SUCCESS! Thanks to your donations we were able to donate 150 suits, sport jackets, and pants to the charity where the clothes were distributed to Hurricane Sandy victims. Clothes 4 Soles provides help through the gift of clothing. Their mission states that the gift of clothing is a simple yet profound way to benefit people in need while helping the environment at the same time.

UPCOMING EVENTS AT THE CLOTHERIE ETON TRUNK SHOW Saturday, April 27th 11 am – 5 pm with representative, Matt Becker

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R & R SURPLUS

UPCOMING EVENTS AT BILTMORE FASHION PARK

MOVIES IN THE PARK April 12 April 19 April 26

Pretty Woman Father of the Bride From Russia with Love

UNION FARMER’S MARKET U N I O N Farmer’s Market takes place every second and fourth Sunday of the month on the east side of Biltmore Fashion Park. Enjoy fresh baked breads, jams, pesticide-free produce, all natural meats, pastas, salsas, raw AZ honey, gluten-free products, and much more!

The first line of the first article written about Steve & Andi Rosenstein back in 1988 read “ both young, blonde & highly energetic”. The story went on to describe the couple’s first flagship Fitigues store in an historic warehouse on the banks of the Chicago River. The Rosensteins would spend the next eighteen years channeling their high energy/creativity toward building Fitigues into an authentic “all Americana” brand before selling to a publicly held retailer in 2006. One year later these two creative souls would find themselves climbing the proverbial walls, itching for a new adventure & challenge. They would find that…and then some, in an historic 1928 former produce warehouse in south downtown Phoenix’s notorious “deuce” neighborhood. The 15,000 square foot building on Phoenix’s “other side of the tracks” would speak to Steve & Andi… and the couple would listen. Today this diamond in the ruff is home base for the couple’s new venture, “the duce.” Andi is still blonde, Steve is grey but both are fifty something going on thirty something and have as much (some say more) energy than they did when they met in the eighties. R&R made it’s debut last summer. Last November Greg Eveloff opened a small, but powerful showcase at Union at The Biltmore. R & R has been very well received with rave reviews. The R&R Surplus Spring collection has just arrived…stop by to see what everyone is talking about! “R&R sort of picks up where Fitigues began back in 1988” explains Andi, R&R’s head designer. “My inspiration is still “borrowed from the boys”… very retro athletic influenced but always with just enough of a soft, feminine twist to it. I love color but think there is a time and place for it. Spring and summer provide me the best of both worlds so the right shade of grey, charcoal, army green or washed white makes it easy for me to accent the collection with soft “pop” colors like daisy, lilac and lemonade. Our signature fabric at Fitigues was always 100% cotton thermal. That’s true today too but we’ve added Modal and a little spandex to the yarn. Now the fabric is unbelievably soft but the bonus is in the stretch R&R will introduce a limited edition men’s collection exclusively at The R & R Surplus Store at Union at The Biltmore.

CARAMELPALOOZA On April 5th at 7 pm Smeeks and New Times will host their fourth annual, Caramelpalooza at Biltmore Fashion Park. This one-day event will feature over 15 Valley chefs and confectioners creating a special caramel treat for guests to taste. Caramelpalooza will take place on the east side of the property, adjacent to the UNION. “Tasting tickets” will be sold the day of the event, $10 for five tickets and all proceeds will benefit the Arizona Humane Society.

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of the town

The Clotherie Apparel Collections for Spring/Summer 2013 .....

THE CLOTHERIE IS HONORED AS A “BEST IN CLASS” STORE Esquire Magazine once again honored THE CLOTHERIE naming it a “Best in Class” men’s specialty store – one of the finest men’s specialty stores in the country. Esquire Magazine is renowned for its expertise, knowledge, and advice in men’s fashion for over 75 years. THE CLOTHERIE, celebrating its 45th year, is proud to receive this prestigious award that “salutes the stores that stand the test of time. Stop in and see why we’ve been recognized as one of the nation’s top retail destinations.

THE CLOTHERIE IS VOTED “TOP MEN’S FASHION STORE IN ARIZONA” THE CLOTHERIE is voted Top Men’s Fashion Store by Ranking Arizona Business Magazine for 16th consecutive year!

CHECK IT OUT VISIT OURWEBSITE www.theclotherie.com for the latest CLOTHERIE news, blog, fashion updates, magazine, and so much more! The Clotherie online store at www.theclotherie.com/online-shop which features a wide selection of shirts, trousers, shoes, accessories and more from your favorite designers...new fashions and exclusive vendors including Alberto, Culturata, Donald Pliner, Eton, Gardeur, J. Paul Skincare and more. Thanks to all of our FACEBOOK Friends! Pass the word to friends and family so we can continue to grow...catch up on Clotherie news, link to the Online Shop, and so much more! Continue to join us on FACEBOOK or follow us on TWITTER.

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AG Adriano Goldschmied Agave Alden Shoes Allegri Outerwear Baade II Bill Lavin Belts Borgo 28 Canali Codice Corneliani Culturata Shirts Donald Pliner Dion Ties Edward Armah Pocket Rounds Ermenegildo Zegna Eton Eurofashion Eyebobs Gardeur Gendarme Cologne Georg Roth Gravati Shoes Haupt Hush Puppies International Laundry Italo Ferretti J. Brand Jeans J. Paul Face Care Jack Lipson Shirts Jack Victor Jet Lag John Smedley LBM 1911 Left Coast Tees Levi’s Made and Crafted Mac Jeans Mason’s Michael Toschi Nat Nast Nikky Capri Pantherella PYA Raffi Robert Talbott Samuelsohn Sand Sartoria Partenopea Swim Tailor Vintage Tateossian Thaddeus To Boot by Adam Derrick Trussini Tulliani W. Kleinberg Zanella Z Zegna


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bubbly Sparkling wine might seem an extraneous purchase, yet it can be sanity-saving — the difference between a stellar day or a lackluster one. Bubbles have a way of scouring away the blues, making even meatloaf night a bit brighter. So perhaps it’s time to loosen the purse strings just a little bit and party again (while keeping the spending to a low roar). Rap stars may have popularized the higher end $200 French Champagnes, further putting this recession-flogged wine segment on a pedestal. But over the past several years, Italian Proseccos and Spanish Cavas, satisfactory substitutes for the French stuff, have increased their market share. Selection is at an all-time high and the price is often less than $20 per bottle. Most French Champagne and American sparkling wines are made from Chardonnay and Pinot Noir grapes (a third, Pinot Meunier, is often blended in). But Italian Prosecco and Spanish Cava producers use indigenous grapes that are easier and less expensive to grow. The Italians turn to a perfumey grape called Prosecco for this namesake bubbly. It’s lightly fizzy and refreshing and can be absolutely beautiful. And occasionally complete rubbish. To avoid the wineries looking to make a quick buck, shopping by name or specific region is imperative. Look for those from Veneto in northeastern Italy and the sub-regions of Conegliano and Valdobbiadene.

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bubbly The main reason Prosecco is less expensive stems from the way they create the bubbles. The costly Méthode Champenoise (in the method of Champagne), the way most bubbles are born, involves fermenting a second time in the bottle and aging for many months. But the fizz in Prosecco is introduced using the Charmat method. They pump the wine into a huge tank, add additional yeast and sugar to start the sparkling second fermentation, and then seal the tank to capture the carbon dioxide, which creates the bubbles. Unromantic, yes, but the cost savings allows us to guzzle Prosecco with decadent abandon. If you have a sweet tooth, look for labels bearing “Extra Dry” (go figure, this means it’s less dry) but otherwise, Brut Prosecco is similar to the drier Brut Champagnes.

or celebratory, just different. And Cava has a nice ring to it, no? It’ll impress your date. Tightly regulated under Spanish wine laws, Cava is principally produced in the Penedes region in east central Spain. You’ll find both white and rosé versions, with varying degrees of sweetness (from driest to sweetest): Brut Nature (rarely seen in the U.S.), Brut, Semi (or Demi) Sec or Dulce (Dulsec). A bit of exploration will go a long way toward finding an affordable sparkling wine that will dazzle your taste buds without requiring a second mortgage. So try a few, and you may find the perfect bubbly to make meatloaf night worth celebrating. A few producers to look for:

Enough of Italy and on to Spain Cava, named after the caves in which this sparkling wine is aged, is Spain’s answer to Champagne. Producers create the bubbles with Methode Tradicional (Méthode Champenoise to the Spaniards) — yet Cava’s flavor can be earthier and less refined because they use indigenous Macabeo, Parellada, and Xarello grapes. But that doesn’t mean Spanish bubbly isn’t less refreshing

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Mionetto Prosecco Brut, $12 Sorelle Bronca Prosecco Brut, $15 Zardetto Prosecco Brut, $15 Codorniu Pinot Noir Brut Cava, $14 S e g u r a Vi u d a s A r i a , $ 1 2 Cristalino Brut Cava, $12


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For our SS 2013 collection, we went with who we are as a company. The collection has all of our eccentric streaks, but mixed with our profound respect for the craftsmanship that goes into a well-made shirt. The result is classic tailoring from our very own factory floor, with inspiration from well-dressed gents in Paris and London. This time around, we also created luxurious scarves, bracelets and crisp prints on denim and chambrays. And yes: we also featured a floral and a fish print. Because - put simply - we like what we like. And we like woven ties, shirts in cotton flanella, light denims and old-school tailoring with extreme cutaway and detachable collar bones. We like quality cufflinks crafted in England (and even more so if we get to place iconic Swedish Dala horses on them). And, most of all, we like producing collections that reflect us as we are - confident, and somewhat unexpected. Still, the season’s most expressive garment might just be our new white shirt. We asked ourselves if a plain white shirt really had to be plain, simply because we disdain the idea that there should be any standards to how a gentleman’s style should be defined. To this end, we integrated a wide range of colours in the actual weave, giving the shirt a subtle Donegal effect. The SS 2013 Green Ribbon collection is all about expressing the individual gentleman’s sense of style and providing him with the highest quality items to do so. The Red Ribbon collection is instead focused on redefining the classics - a never-dying passion of ours. Obviously, we can’t tell you what kind of a gentleman you should dress like, but we´re confident that a subtle dash of the unexpected looks good on us all.

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Eton Trunk Show - Saturday, April 27th with representative, Matt Becker 11 am - 5 pm


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Watch tourism in Switzerland is an aficionado’s paradise, combining natural and horological wonders off the beaten track

Millions of tourists visit Switzerland every year for its famous Alpine ski resorts and five-star spas on pristine lakes, but watch lovers know another Switzerland that combines the thrill of horological discovery with breathtaking scenery. Instead of the resorts and casinos of Lugano or the glamour and excitement of St. Moritz, and Gstaad, they are drawn to the hamlets of Fleurier and the charms of Lake Neuchâtel, and instead of Alps, they savor the scenic peaks and valleys of the rugged Jura mountains. This is the birthplace of watchmaking, a mecca for watch aficionados and the perfect destination for anyone looking for beauty off the beaten track. The Watch Trail, as it is known, begins in Geneva and runs north, roughly along the French border, for about 300 miles, ending in Basel, where the famous Swiss watch trade fair takes place every year. Along the way are some of the most beautiful and fascinating areas of Switzerland: pristine lakes, scenic hiking trails, and wonderful local inns and restaurants, all dotted with the museums and manufactures of the country’s elite watch brands. This is where the Swiss, as well as the world’s watch aficionados, come to be impressed. The region is full of delightful surprises, not only scenically but gastronomically. Even in the most remote villages of the Jura, you can dine on local foods and wines that rival world-class cuisine, all served with local hospitality. In this guide through Swiss timepiece territory, top watch brands are listed according to location. While some allow public tours on scheduled days, most are only open to the public by appointment, so it’s wise to contact them in advance. Many have on-site museums with opening hours to the public. All photos courtesy of Swiss Tourism.

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Excursion boats travel regularly on the Lac des Brenets, bordered by rocks, from Les Brenets to the Saut du Doubs in the Neuchâtel Jura. — Christof Sonderegger


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The Jet d’Eau fountain in Geneva is one of the city’s most famous landmarks. It rises to 459 feet in the air.

Geneva Brands: Rolex, Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin, Piaget, Frederique Constant, Harry Winston, F. P. Journe, Roger Dubuis, Cartier, Franc Vila, Jean Dunand, DeLaneau, Bovet, DeWitt, Antoine Prezuiso. Geneva is the founding city of luxury watchmaking, and if you stand on the left bank of the bay where Lake Geneva meets the Rhône River, you can see the neon signs of the head offices of the elite brands along the right bank, including Patek Philippe and Rolex. It all started when, in the mid-16th century, French theologian John Calvin made Geneva the world headquarters of Reformation Protestantism. Deeply conservative, Calvin legislated a ban on the wearing of elaborate clothing and jewelry, but considered watches as practical and therefore respectable. Before long, Protestant watchmakers from France, Italy, and Flanders flocked to Geneva, where they plied their trade to a population that craved the only acceptable form of adornment. Today, Geneva is not only the headquarters of high-end watchmaking, it has become one of Europe’s great cities, with some of the world’s top hotels and restaurants. • Patek Philippe Museum, 7 Rue des Vieux-Grenadiers: This beautiful art deco building houses what is essentially the private collection of the Stern family, which owns Patek Philippe, the world’s most prestigious watch brand. It is a breathtaking collection, dating from 1839, and includes some of the auction record-setting watches made by the brand, including the world’s most complicated watch. The museum also showcases a large collection of pieces from Genevan, Swiss, and other European horological mas-

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ters, including a large collection of enameled watches, automata, and miniatures, some dating from the 16th century. • Watch and Clock Museum: This museum, located at 15 Rte. de Malagnou, features clocks, ornamental pocket watches, wristwatches, automata, enamels and tools. • The Malbuisson Clock, in the “Passage Malbuisson” was created by watchmaker Edouard Wirth. The clock presents a daily battle re-enactment of the Escalade, the 1602 Savoy attack on Geneva. Every hour on the hour, the 16 bells of the clock chime while 42 bronze figurines and 13 chariots make a procession. • The Cornavin Hotel Clock, 33 Blvd. James-Fazy, is the largest mechanical clock in the world, measuring 30 meters high and two meters wide, with a 26-meter pendulum. It is eight floors high. • The Flower Clock in the Jardin Anglais on the right bank of the city is a masterpiece of technology and floral art. Built in 1955, it has the largest second hand in the world and is decorated with over 6,500 plants and flowers of numerous varieties. The city changes the assortment every year. • Restaurants and hotels: Le Lion D’Or has a world-class menu, exclusive wines, and beautiful views of Lake Geneva. For traditional Swiss fondue and raclette, visit Restaurant Les Armures in the Hotel Les Armures in the heart of the old town. Top lakefront hotels include Hotel President Wilson and D’Angleterre.


The Southern Jura and the Vallée de Joux: Le Brassus, Le Sentier, L’Abbaye. Brands: Audemars Piguet, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Breguet, Blancpain, Vacheron Constantin. The Vallée de Joux is, along with Neuchâtel, the birthplace of Swiss horology. The farmers in the remote villages of the valley took up watch and clock making to pass the long winter nights, working in their homes by candlelight. Watchmaking became a flourishing cottage industry and still is today. Eventually the assembleurs — who cased all the components into finished watches — built manufactures, factories that use a combination of machines and hand-crafting, most of which are still in operation. There are three main municipalities in the Vallée de Joux: Le Sentier, Le Lieu, and L’Abbaye, forming the district of La Vallée. All of the villages are accessible by train, but renting a car will allow you to explore the spectacular scenery on the winding roads through the Jura and discover the wonderful local restaurants along the way. • Hotel des Horlogers (Watchmakers Hotel), Le Brassus. This four-star hotel, about 25 miles north of Geneva, is near local watch manufactures and Lac de Joux, where sailing, water skiing and other water sports are available. It has a traditional chalet-style restaurant, serving fondue, and weekend packages that include visits to local watchmaking museums and boat trips on the lake. The hotel also organizes a tour that involves visiting a local watchmaker for a lesson in horology at the Watchmaking Initiation Center (see below). • Watchmaking Initiation Center, Le Sentier. Spend a day with watchmaker Olivier Piguet and learn to disassemble and then reassemble a mechanical watch. Participants keep their watches at the end of the lesson. Piguet receives visitors in a historical workshop, where he shares his theoretical and practical knowledge of the mechanical watch. For reservations, contact www.olivierpiguet.ch. • Sailing Camp on Lac de Joux. The Vallée de Joux Sports Center on Lac de Joux gives individual and group lessons, including weekend sailing camp packages that include accommodations and meals. www.myvalleedejoux.ch/en • Audemars Piguet Museum. This private collection includes several of the brand’s many world firsts in watchmaking, enriched with exceptional creations from other watchmaking craftsmen from the Vallée de Joux. • Espace Horloger, Le Sentier: This museum recounts a full history of watchmaking in the Vallée de Joux.

Fleurier

The Jura Mountains and the Vallée de Joux are the heart of the Swiss watchmaking industry.

Brands: Vaucher, Chopard, Parmigiani Fleurier, and Bovet. A few miles northeast, in the picturesque Val-de-Travers region, is the village of Fleurier, on the Areuse River. The Areuse supplied the hydro-energy needed for the watchmaking industry, which started in the village around 1730. A network of well-maintained footpaths, hiking and mountain-biking trails leads through the tranquil landscape, following the bends of the river. • The former Benedictine Monastery of Saint-Pierre in the neighboring village of Môtiers produces Mauler, the notable sparkling wine. Guided tours and wine-tasting sessions are available. • Don’t miss the spectacular view of Fleurier and the Val de Travers from the Chapeau de Napoléon restaurant atop the mountain of the same name (shaped like Napoleon’s hat). The food is fresh, local and superb. Fondue is a specialty.

Bottom: The Vallée de Joux and Lake Joux, in the Swiss Jura Mountains. — Philipp Giegel


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The Northern Jura: Neuchâtel, La Chaux-de-Fonds, Le Locle, Villeret, St Imier Brands: Cartier, Panerai, Bulgari, Omega, Montblanc, Hermes, Chanel, Girard-Perregaux, TAG Heuer, Greubel Forsey, Ebel, Corum, Longines, Ulysse Nardin, Zenith, Minerva. Neuchâtel: A 900-year old clock tower chimes the time in this city of watchmaking which, along with nearby La Chaux-de-Fonds, is recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site because of its design as a center of watchmaking as a cottage industry, with residential and semiindustrial buildings mixed together. It was the home of Abraham Louis Breguet, the most famous watchmaker and inventor of many horological mechanisms, including the tourbillon. The city is located on the shores of Lake Neuchâtel, with the Jura mountains rising steeply in the background and the Alps visible across the lake.

The Palafitte in Neuchâtel is the only hotel in Europe with rooms built as over-water bungalows.

La Chaux-de-Fonds is a UNESCO World Heritage site because of its unique mix of residential and semi-industrial buildings, all geared to the watch industry.

• Hotel Palafitte: Among the many things the Swiss do very well are two standouts: watchmaking and hospitality. The Hotel Palafitte has 40 rooms designed as individual over-water bungalows built on piles over Lake Neuchâtel, with stunning views from private decks. Originally built for the Swiss National Exhibition more than 10 years ago, the hotel has become a regional landmark and is the only overwater hotel in Europe. • Also located lakeside (though not right on the lake) is the majestic Beau Rivage, an old-world, elegant, five-star hotel. Among the many services and packages offered is a weekend for two that includes, in addition to two-night’s accommodation and gourmet meals, a trip to a local watchmaker’s workshop where you can build your own mechanical watch. • The Time Trail: A panoramic funicular railway runs from Neuchâtel to Chaumont, offering superb views of the lakes and the mountains. Descend back to Neuchâtel via the Time Trail, a 4,500-meter path with stations representing the evolution of life on Earth placed along the way. www.neuchateltourisme.ch

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Neuchâtel, an important Swiss watchmaking city, sits on the shores of Lake Neuchâtel, with the Alps in the background and the Jura Mountains behind it.


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La Chaux de Fonds The city of La Chaux-de-Fonds is one of the focal points of the Swiss watchmaking industry and the home of the country's famous watchmaking school, WOSTEP. The town was built according to a special “city-factory” urban design, in parallel strips on which residential housing and workshops intermingle — and still do. Some of the charming houses you see in this town are actually watch factories. Watchmaking was a cottage industry at the time, with most of the trades involved — case makers, dial makers — taking place in home workshops.

• Omega Museum: Includes collections from key-wound pocket watches and ultra-slim quartz models to the official chronograph of NASA and award-winning chronometers. Also, it houses the first photo finish camera designed for timing the Olympic Games. • Biel is the ideal starting point for cycling tours of the area, with a wide selection of routes to choose from in the Jura foothills or along the waterfront. The lakeside Seeland park includes several kilometers of hiking paths, including the “Vegetables Route,” with information along the way on the more than 60 varieties of vegetables cultivated in the area.

• International Watchmaking Museum. In addition to constantly changing temporary exhibits, the museum displays a vast permanent collection of historic watches and clocks. It is the broadest and most comprehensive watch and clock museum in the world. The museum includes a prize collection of close to 5,000 items dating from the 16th century to modern times. • Museum of History: This is located in a villa that preserves a typical artisan watchmaker’s quarters. It tells the story of La Chauxde-Fonds and how this small village was transformed into a watchmaking center. • The Longines Museum, St Imier. Located in a wing of the brand’s manufacture, one of the first to be established in the region, the museum traces the history of Longines from 1832, and in so doing, comprises one of the most comprehensive histories of Swiss watchmaking. • The Horological Museum: Located in the nearby village of Le Locle in a late 18th century manor house, it contains a large historical collection of clocks, watches and automata.

Biel/Bienne Brands: Omega, Breitling, Concord, Swatch Group This city, like Neuchâtel and La Chaux-de-Fonds, grew on the strength of the watch industry, which remains its top industry. It is officially bilingual, hence the double name, one in French and one in German. It sits on a lake of the same name, with the foothills of the Jura behind it. The small but beautiful historic center, with its gothic church, impressive guild halls and fountains decorated with flowers, is great for strolling.

Bikers on the Route Panoramique du Balcon in the Jura Mountains, with a view of Lake Neuchâtel. — Christof Sonderegger

Basel

Every spring, 100,000 watch aficionados travel to Basel for the annual watch fair.

Every April, more than 100,000 buyers, collectors and watch lovers travel to Switzerland to ensure they are among the first to discover the latest watch introductions at Baselworld, the world’s largest annual watch and jewelry trade show. The Basel fair is massive: 10 days before it opens, 30,000 building staff construct twoor three-story closed booths (some with elevators and kitchens), inside a triple-airplane-hangar-sized building. Another 30,000 people staff the booths during the day. The town’s hotels book 800,000 overnight stays for visitors during the week of launch parties and celebrations. Basel is also a beautiful city, with an old town dating to the early 14th century, and beautiful paths and biking trails along the Rhine River. • Historical Museum. A collection of timepieces made in Western European watchmaking centers, made between the 15th and 19th centuries, including sun dials, carriage clocks, enameled gold watches and timepieces made in Basel. • Museum of Timepieces and mechanical musical instruments. Mostly pieces from private collections, including clocks, watches, pocket watches and pendant watches. A new, free iPhone App from SwitzerlandMobility provides information on over 600 national, regional and local hiking and cycling routes in Switzerland. It includes information on over 4,000 points of interest such as overnight accommodation, skating and canoeing sites, sightseeing attractions and a full railway schedule. www.schweizmobil.ch/enwww.schweizmobil.ch/en

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DION ST YLE • QUALITY • SER VICE

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ALBERTO Celebrating 90 Years of Design & Innovation

Photos Courtesy of Alberto

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Pants that fit well. A simple statement perhaps, but that is

Some of the technology innovation in our Alberto pants:

exactly what Alberto means to the well-dressed man. ALBERTO is the pant specialist for men. Whether you are look-

Ceramica

ing for relaxed, comfortable, slim, or modern – regardless of

(the original fabric from Alberto which we has been in the

which style, men will find the perfect pants with Alberto.

collection for more than a decade)

The label has a long tradition. It has grown from a locally based manufacturer to an international global player – all while remaining a family company. The original company was founded in 1922 by Dr Albert Dormann in Monchengladbach, Germany. In 2003, the company, now headed by Georg Walendy, the grandson of the founder, was renamed Alberto. Ever since the beginning, the company has been showing what it takes to design high quality, contemporary fashion by combining handcrafted perfection with technological innovation and a

• Tiny ceramic particles are worked into the fibers • Fabric can offset temperatures by up to 5 degree Celsius • Washable • Crease-resistant • Hypoallergenic • Optimum wearer comfort • Soft on skin • Balance temperature • UV-repellent

distinctive flair for trends. There are many beautiful details inside the pants that are

T400 fiber

handcrafted; such as, the band inside the waist and inside the pockets. In addition, most of the pants have technical precision

• Better than LYCRA (spandex) fibers as it has memory stretch

to make the fabric more comfortable.

• Soft to the touch

Before going to the drawing board each season, the creative

• Breathable

department asks themselves many questions, such as, “What bet-

• No bagging

ter, new materials could we use?”, “How can we improve a perfect

• Maximum freedom of movement

fit whether the wearer is standing or sitting?”, “How do pants

• Perfect fit due to permanent stretch

change during the day?”, and “How should they feel when they

• Easy care

are freshly washed?”

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automobiles

4-door sport — It’s the new hot category of automobile design, and BMW has finally jumped in with both feet. Although technically a sedan by strict definition, the new Gran Coupe is BMW’s entry into the new market sector, eyed suspiciously at first by many in the industry, but now coming into undeniable popularity — the “quad-coupe.” Mercedes-Benz originally took the plunge with the CLS, followed by the Porsche Panamera, the Audi A7, and even the Volkswagen CC. Although a bit of a holdout at first, BMW has just released their offering of a 4-door pseudo-coupe as their newest 6 series model. Compared to the 2-door 6 series, the Gran Coupe is about 4.4 inches longer — most of which is given to back seat space — and 4.5 inches wider. The expressive front end is dominated by the large and slightly forward-slanting BMW kidney grill with slats angled slightly at the top, lending emphasis to the shark-nose character of the face. The Gran Coupe’s distinctive profile is dominated by its four-door, elegantly stretched roof line, which flows smoothly into the rear end. The long, powerfully contoured hood, short front overhang, and set-back passenger compart-

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ment gives the auto a sort of athletic elegance. This helps answer

BMW fashion, the Gran Coupe delivers that familiar autobahn-

the question, “If you’ve already got the 3 series and the 5 series,

tuned exhilarating experience as the 2-door 6s.

why a 4-door 6?” It truly is a different animal. You almost have to

The two available engines, specially tuned for this size and

look twice to be sure the Gran Coupe actually has 4 doors. It’s a

shape, deliver on that familiar promise of the ultimate driving

sporty “coupy” (coopish?) look that is unique and stylistically

machine. The 3-liter inline six will impress performance-minded

appealing in a way that the more standard sedan is not. It’s per-

drivers with its effortless power as it launches from 0 to 60 in 5.4

fect for the driver who has begrudgingly admitted that he needs

seconds while still remaining capable of delivering up to 30 mpg

the convenience and room of a 4-door but wishes he didn’t.

on the highway. And if you opt for the V-8 version, you can shave

And staying in that same vein of duality — size plus perform-

a full second off that acceleration time, for those days when 5 1/2

ance — once you’re in the cockpit of the Gran Coupe, as long as

seconds is just too long to wait before you can set that cruise con-

you don’t turn around and see the extra leg-room and door han-

trol. In case you’re wondering, both versions are electronically

dles, you’re free to pretend your still driving that sexy 6 series 2-

governed to a top speed of 155mph. If that’s going to be a prob-

door coupe. Nothing about the performance of this slightly

lem, perhaps you need to look into finding a house a little closer

stretched version is going to interfere with the daydream. In true

to the office.

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The BMW Gran Coupe joins the Audi A7, Porsche Panamera, and Mercedes CLS in the Quad-Coupe market

The power of those twin-turbos is precisely and efficiently transferred to rubber on the road via an 8-speed automatic transmission. An innovative gear set maximizes acceleration at any speed while still offering the impressive fuel economy of low revs. Sticking with the coupe-style sporting character, you can opt to select gears manually via shift paddles on the steering wheel. As with the 6 Series 2-door, the 2013 BMW 6 series Gran Coupe will offer a full array of cutting-edge technology, infotainment and safety systems. Options include adaptive LED headlamps, active roll stabilization, integral active steering, active cruise control, night vision with pedestrian detection, and a Bang & Olufsen surround-sound audio system. Among the option packages are a luxury seating package that bundles ventilated multicontour seats, rear sunshades, a four-zone climate control system, a driver assistance package with lane departure warning, active blind spot detection, rear- and top-view cameras, a parking assistant, and a three-dimensional, full-color

head-up display. BMW calls the Gran Coupe a “4+1 seater,” claiming that while it is “primarily designed as a four seater, a fifth person can be accommodated in the rear compartment.” I don’t know if by rear compartment they mean the trunk — which is actually quite spacious at 13 cubic feet — but even though there may be a section of leather between the occupants in the rear, the fact that the rear instrument console extends all the way to the back seat, I’m not sure where the third person would put their legs. I suppose one could straddle the console, and the air vents may even be a bit refreshing, but I couldn’t, in good conscience, recommend a fifth passenger over 3 feet tall.

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man

Lipson Shirtmakers

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While collections span from subdued to outlandish designs, Ted’s commitment to the art of tailoring is evident throughout. All shirts are produced using the finest fabrics and trimmings sourced from around the globe. A combination of modern technology and traditional tailoring techniques brings these materials to life. Shank wrapped buttons, split yokes, hand-sewn gussets and over 20 stitches per inch are just some of the exceptional quality features to be found on Lipson shirts. Demand for a more bespoke experience lead to the creation of the Elite line, offering customers exclusive fabrics, fits and customization options. Now backed by more than 50 specialty retailers across North America, the Elite program found its by niche offering a light made-to-measure experience; simple, reliable, and

personal. A full spectrum of shirting services such as private label, online Catalogues and deep stock programs are also offered by the company, leveraging the speed and flexibility of their domestic facility. And that dedication to domestic production is what separates the company from its peers. In an industry where cheap, off-shore manufacturing has become the norm, Lipson Shirtmakers provides a rare alternative to customers looking for quality product made in North America at competitive prices. Much has changed since the company’s inception over 50 years ago, but this Canadian stalwart continues to provide it’s loyal following an ever-expanding assortment of fine men’s shirts tailored for any occasion.

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for fall

b y

D E B O R A H Y O N I C K

Drab, dull neutrals are being replaced by vibrant colors in the season’s fashions — jewelry follows suit

Vividly Vibrant Viola Davis at the Oscars

Bérénice Bejo at the Oscars

Angelina Jolie at the Oscars

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Kelly Osbourne at the Oscars

You need only look to the spring runways to see the impact color is having on fashion and accessories this season. Designers are heeding women’s desire for color to inspire them and lift their spirits. Color-blocking in fashion has remained a key tendency, especially this year. First on the scene in the 1960s in designs inspired by Dutch painter Piet Mondrian, the technique is an ideal way to infuse bold shapes and pops of bright colors into a wardrobe. Patterns need not apply; this trend is all about solids. Rules about clashing are out the window: pink, red, and orange now blend to create depth and intrigue. Even brown, black, and navy can play nicely together. And of course, the symbiotic and contrasting use of black and white returns cyclically in every woman’s wardrobe. Trends hail the gem and jewel as the most powerful expression of individuality, the perfect icon to celebrate love, life, and self. A new sense of daring in both fashion and jewelry is driving a growing quest for innovation in concept, form, material, and craft. Leading jewelry styles spied on the runways include cuffs and collars, long tassel earrings and necklaces, shoulder-dusting cluster and drop earrings, neckpieces showcasing bold amulets and talismans, and stacks of bangle bracelets. The Pantone Color Institute, which follows color trends and publishes a list of the top colors each year, has pronounced vivacious Tangerine Tango as the color of the year. Also topping the Pantone charts this year are Olympian Blue, a patriotic azure; a deep, cooling Ultramarine Green; delicious vibrant Pink Flambé; and Bright Chartreuse, a vivid yellow-green that celebrates spring and will still be the perfect bridge into the cool days of fall. The last being the ideal accent to all of the colors in the palette.

In the gem world, there are plenty of options to complement Pantone’s top-10 palette forecast this season: Bright Chartreuse: tsavorite garnet, demantoid garnet, peridot. Ethereal Rhapsody: amethyst, sapphire, tourmaline. French Roast: chocolate pearls, cognac diamonds, zircon, sphene. Honey Gold: South Sea pearls, citrine, moonstone, sphene. Olympian Blue: zircon, tanzanite, chrysocolla, turquoise, opal. Pink Flambé: tourmaline, sapphire, spinel, rhodolite garnet. Rose Smoke: rose quartz, spinel, tourmaline, freshwater pearls. Tangerine Tango: Mexican fire opal, spessartite garnet, moonstone. Titanium: diamond, silver blue grey Tahitian pearls, moonstone, agate. Ultramarine Green: tsavorite garnet, sapphire, aquamarine, turquoise.

Leslie Mann at the Oscars


for fall

Heidi Klum at the Oscars

Diamonds may be a girl’s BFF, but the hottest look on the red carpet is the vivid color of gemstones. Precious gems like emerald, ruby, and sapphire are star favorites in statement-making accessories at recent awards shows and movie premieres. Michael O’Connor, a style expert and the host of StyleLab’s red carpet jewelry suite, sees an overall fascination with the 1950s and ’60s in this year’s design choices. “Bright, vibrant colored stones that were big then are back again, including greens, blues, and reds,” he says. O’Connor also cites chunky cuff styles with geometric shapes and vintage designs as prevalent, as well as colorful, nature-inspired cocktail rings. “While diamond studs remain a staple, there’s a return to oversized drop or interesting chandelier earrings that practically touch the collarbone — an easy go-to complement to diverse necklines from strapless to single shoulder to halter.” Emerald has been a particular favorite since Angelina Jolie flashed a pair of vivid Colombian emerald drop earrings totaling 115 carats and an immense 65-carat Colombian emerald ring by jeweler-to-the-stars Lorraine Schwartz at Oscars 2009. Big, luscious drop earrings and knockout cocktail rings are preferred. Sapphire and ruby too have been top gala go-to gems for Hollywood divas. These rich, vibrant jewel-toned A great role model for the adventurous in color is Heidi Klum. Known gems are typically for her rockin’ red carpet style, this model mogul regularly pulls off seen as a compleunforgettable looks in dress and accessories. A big fan of Lorraine ment to dresses in Schwartz, she is usually awash in gems. Among her most memorable: similar hues or as a carved lavender jade and blackened platinum butterfly earrings at pop of bright color Emmys 2008, layers of amazing coral and diamond platinum jewelry against classic black at Oscars 2009, tassle earrings with 90 carats of black diamonds at looks. Emmys 2010; and fire opal earrings and rings in floral leaf Rich, bright color typicaldesigns at Emmys 2011. ly rules when it comes to red carpet accessories, but not just in the classic precious trio. Gems such as turquoise, rubellite tourmaline, spessartite garnet, spinel, zircon, and jade are all popping up. Fancy colored diamonds have become even more popular than white diamonds on the red carpet, especially in shades of yellow, brown, black, and gray.

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R I C H I E

F R I E M A N

questions

a question of LOVE Those pesky relationship questions. Even when the two people involved are in complete agreement about where they stand in their relationship, someone always asks that one awkward question that leaves both lovebirds with sweaty palms and tight throats. We hate to hear them, especially when we don’t seem them coming. But perhaps — just perhaps — they get us thinking or possibly even talking about those important and eventually inevitable decisions we all have to make. Don’t be too hard on family and friends when they just can’t help but ask. They’re just excited for you and your possibilities, and they want to feel like they’re sharing in these important parts of your life. So maybe we should look at the possibilities and practice a little. Question 1: So When Are You Two Getting Engaged? That's right; I'm opening up with the biggest question of all — the engagement question. A couple of years ago Beyonce made one little phrase the battle cry for women across the globe when she sang, “If you like it, then you better put a ring on it!” That little sentence made women everywhere say, “Yeah, when? I thought you liked me!” And men say, “Uh I uh Um...” Still, the question of when to put a ring on it WILL be asked and most likely at inappropriate times. In most instances, it's asked prematurely by parents who just want grandchildren as soon as possible. Know that this question makes the guy incredibly uncomfortable, so I'm going to ask my female readers to not get all freaked out if the guy fumbles the answer. I say this because here's the answer women: every guy knows when he will ask. They may not know the exact day, the exact way, or how they'll pay for it--but every man does know if and when he'll propose. So, when this question is asked, the best way to respond is this, 'If I told you, it wouldn't be a surprise.' That right there ends the questioning. Now, for the fellas, the caveat to this answer is knowing in fact that you WILL one day propose. You can only use this answer if it will in fact happen. If not, well, then you need to read up on how to properly break up with someone. Question 2: Are You Two Boyfriend/Girlfriend? Whether it's your first date, the fifth, or you just announced to the world that you are FBO (Facebook Official like, duh!), having to answer your relationship 'status' can be one of the quickest ways to end a relationship. I personally witnessed this awkwardness at a party with my friend and his girlfriend. They hadn't yet 'established' their status and when someone approached my friend and asked him if the lovely girl next to him was his girlfriend, Kenny stuttered, 'Ummm this is my uh Well she's my date.' You could feel the awkwardness in Kenny's voice and could read it on both of their faces. Just a date? That's it? You know that when you go 'public' with someone you are dating you have to expect people to ask you your status. And if you do take someone to a function, most likely you feel good enough and confident enough to respond properly. Kenny could have avoided an awkward encounter by just establishing their status before bringing her. Now, how do you do such a thing? For this, you just have to be open and realistic. Even if you just started dating, tell your date, 'Look you know that my friends may ask what we 'are' and if even though we haven't talked about it officially yet, I don't want to you feel uncomfortable. I really like you but don't want to rush things. Let's just have fun tonight.' Then, when you do enter the room and one by one people start to come over and ask who the girl or guy is, keep that casual confidence you had in the car. 'This is [NAME], the coolest person I've been out with in a long time in that's who it is.' Your friends will pick up on how awkward they made you feel by your way of stepping around the issue. I realize that there will be times you're out with someone you're dating and you haven't had the talk. When asked about your status in those cases, use humor to deflect the question and prevent the awkwardness. Kenny could have fired back with a joke, 'This is Emily. She's a cage fighter. I bet $50 on a bar fight earlier tonight and she won, so I wanted to take her out to celebrate.' Or try this one: 'This is Tom. He's my lawyer. I'm looking at 10-20 for a bank robbery from last week and he's helping me out.' Then you can politely excuse yourself to enjoy a mutual laugh with your date. You two can figure out a much more serious way to answer this question when you're ready. Question 3: So, Why Are You Still Single? This question is something that was the underlying idea for every episode of Sex in The City. 'Why are you still single?' is like asking someone, 'Why don't you have a six-pack?'or 'Why do you not make more money?' All of which are completely improper and inappropriate questions. It's not a question for positive conversation; it's a rude question. It serves only to make a person uncomfortable. What do you expect them to say? And who has the right to ask that anyway? Is it a crime to be single? No. Is there a time limit in which you shouldn't be single anymore? No. Worst of all, how do you not know that the person you're asking this didn't just get out of a serious relationship and needs a break? You don't, so this question always burns me up when I hear someone ask it. To the questioner — you lack all common courtesy and manners. To the single people out there, band together and start a revolution of sarcasm and wit to fight back. There are a few ways to handle this. One, you can be serious; 'The reason I am single is because I haven't found the right person and don't really enjoy being grilled about it. But I'll keep you posted.' Boom! Argument done. No one will ask again. Second, you can use what my mom calls a 'smart ass response' like, 'Wait, I didn't tell you? I got married just last week? You didn't get the invite? Oh man, so sorry. Hey, maybe the next one.' And I'd even add another one on top of it too, 'Just kidding, I'm getting married next week to cousin Beth. You know to keep it in the family and save some money on the guest list.' Sarcasm is a quick way to say, 'back off.' You can always play the innocent route and be honest, 'Well, I'd like to be in a relationship so if you know of anyone, hook me up. I'm open.' That response may make the conversation feel more at ease and can relax both parties. But I hope it's the last time they ask it again. So rude. 38

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eed st

e ad ice

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b y

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spotlight

the

WATCHMAKER’S For 180 years, Jaeger-Le Coultre has been inventing and reinventing the timepiece Jaeger-Le Coultre is one of Switzerland’s elite heritage brands, known for its mastery of high complications and its history of supplying movements to other top brands. It was founded by watchmaker and inventor Antoine Le Coultre in 1833 in the Vallée de Joux, the famous watchmaking district in Switzerland’s Jura Mountains. In 1903, Parisian Edmond Jaeger challenged Jacques-David LeCoultre, grandson of Antoine, to manufacture ultrathin calibers of his design. Out of their relationship emerged a collection of ultra-thin pocket

watches,

followed

by

others.

Eventually, in 1937, this relationship officially culminated in the Jaeger-LeCoultre brand.

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The Grande Reverso Ultra Lady Thin, in 18k pink gold and steel, is only 7.17mm thick.


Some of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s achievements include the invention, in 1929, of what is still today the world’s smallest movement, the caliber 101, which weighs barely one gram. For her coronation in 1953, Queen Elizabeth II of England wore a watch that used this superlative mechanism.

One of Antoine LeCoultre’s first inventions, in 1847, was a revolutionary system which did away with the need for keys to rewind and set watches. He invented a pushbutton that activated a lever to change over from one function to the other. At the very first Universal Exhibition in 1851 Antoine LeCoultre won a gold medal for his gold chronometer and for several technical watchmaking achievements: the lever winding mechanism, cutting-edge manufacturing processes and components that allowed for interchangeability. From then on, the Manufacture would receive the most prestigious distinctions. The Manufacture has created over 500 different calibers with complications, including more than 200 chronographs, over 200 repeaters and numerous grand complications.

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre Spherotourbillon is one of the world’s most complicated watches.

The Grande Reverso 1931 Rouge is a tribute to the brand’s Art Deco Reverso collection.

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Some of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s achievements include the invention, in 1929, of what is still today the world’s smallest movement, the caliber 101, which weighs barely one gram. For her coronation in 1953, Queen Elizabeth II of England wore a watch that used this superlative mechanism. Another unique Jaeger-LeCoultre invention is the Reverso, with a reversible case. Created in 1931, this style remains a major segment of the brand’s collection. It has housed over 50 different mechanical calibers, from the world’s smallest watch movement to grand complications, including tourbillons, minute repeaters and perpetual calendars. Each of these mechanisms has been specially designed to fit the legendary reversible case and entirely made on site at the JaegerLeCoultre Manufacture.

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Deep Sea Vintage Chronograph is a tribute to the brand’s Memovox Deep Sea diving watches of the 1970s. The watch is an automatic chronograph and is water resistant to 100 meters.

The brand’s most recent innovative complication is the Duometre Spherotourbillon, a double-axis tourbillon with several technical innovations. Notable among them is its power source: it is driven by two mainspring barrels and two separate going trains. One powers the tourbillon and the other drives the time indications and calendar. Another distinction is the stop-seconds flyback function, which, in addition to returning the seconds hand to zero according to the flyback principle, makes the watch adjustable to the nearest second. This is a rare function that allows the wearer to synchronize the watch with an external time signal. The flyback aspect of the stop-seconds is a world first. The Spherotourbillon is the fourth watch in the brand’s Duometre series, all of which have two indeThe Jaeger-LeCoultre Repetition Minutes a Rideau, with one side of the dial covered by a sliding metal curtain, which also activates the minute repeater function.

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pendent barrels that power different functions in the timepiece.


The Clotherie Spring 2013 Magazine  

The Clotherie proudly presents the next issue of Men's Fashion News for Spring 2013.

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