< 22 A California cuisine Christmas!
Trout-Fennel Salad Serves 4 1/2 cup mayonnaise 2 tablespoons minced herbs, such as Italian parsley, oregano, marjoram, thyme, chives, or a combination 2 medium fennel bulbs, trimmed 3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil Juice of 1/2 lemon Kosher salt Black pepper from a mill 2 smoked trout, boned, skinned and broken into chunks, chilled Sprigs of thyme or Italian parsley for garnish
Mix together the mayonnaise and the minced herbs in a small bowl, and set the bowl aside. Cut the fennel bulbs crosswise into slices, cut the slices into slivers and place the slivers in a medium bowl. Drizzle the olive oil over the fennel, toss quickly, add the lemon juice and toss again. Season with salt and pepper. Add the trout, and toss the salad very gently. Divide the salad among individual serving plates, and top each portion with a spoonful of the herbed mayonnaise. Garnish with the herb sprigs and serve immediately. O
O
O
O
San Francisco’s cioppino is said to have originated with Italian fishermen around the time of the Gold Rush. Jordan says about the ongoing dispute over its name, “Evan Jones, in American Food, suggests the savory stew might be a version of ciupin, a Ligurian fish soup found on menus in Genoa.” Crab is a traditional Christmas treat here and is essential in her recipe. I have to say that of all cioppino recipes, I prefer this version—lighter, with no tomato paste to interfere with the flavors of the seafood.
Cioppino
rileystreet art supply THE CREATIVE SOURCE FOR CREATIVE PEOPLE
Marin’s best art supply store
Tis the Season... Amazing Creative Holiday Gifts 1138 Fourth St San Rafael 415-457-2787 Downtown San Rafael Between A and B St. /P BSU GPS B XFFL EPUI NBLF UIF NJOE XFBL
24 PACIFIC SUN DECEMBER 16 - DECEMBER 22, 2011
Serves 6 to 8 1/2 cup olive oil 2 yellow onions, diced 2 celery ribs, minced 10 garlic cloves, minced 1-1/2 cups minced Italian parsley 1/4 cup mixed minced herbs, such as marjoram, thyme and oregano 1 teaspoon minced rosemary 1 teaspoon minced basil 1 bay leaf 1 teaspoon crushed red pepper 1 teaspoon fresh-ground black pepper 2 cups dry white wine 1 28-ounce can diced tomatoes with their juice 2 large or 3 small Dungeness crabs, cooked and cleaned 3 pounds small clams or cockles in the shell, rinsed 1 pound medium shrimp, peeled and deveined 2 pounds fish fillets, such as snapper Garlic bread or other hot crusty bread
Heat the olive oil in a large heavy pot over medium heat. Add the onions and celery, and saute them until they are soft and fragrant, about 10 minutes. Add the garlic and saute for 2 minutes more. Add 1 cup of the parsley, the mixed herbs and the rosemary, basil, bay leaf, red pepper, black pepper, wine and tomatoes and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat and simmer, uncovered, for 15
minutes. Season with salt. Break apart the crab by separating the legs from the body and breaking the body into 3 or 4 pieces. Add the crab to the pot, followed by the clams, shrimp and fish fillets. Cover the pot tightly, and simmer for about 8 minutes, until the clams have opened and the fish is cooked through. To serve, divide the seafood among serving bowls, ladle sauce over each portion and garnish with the remaining 1/2 cup of parsley. Serve immediately, with hot bread on the side. O
O
O
O
More than half the world’s raisin crop comes from California. The recipe that follows makes good use of the new harvest from the growers. It evokes winter holidays with warm spices and is quick and easy to turn out (easily multiplied for serving at a large dinner). I like to use a mixture of black and golden raisins for contrast.
Fresno Pork Roast with Hot Spiced Raisins Serves 4 to 6 2 pork tenderloins, about 1-1/4 pounds each 1 tablespoon minced lemon zest 2 teaspoons kosher salt 1 teaspoon fresh-ground black pepper 1 cup (packed) brown sugar 1/3 cup white wine vinegar 1 1-inch cinnamon stick 3 thin lemon slices 1-1/2 cups raisins
Several hours before serving, remove the pork from the refrigerator and set it on a work surface. Combine the lemon zest, salt and pepper in a small bowl, and rub the mixture into the tenderloins. Set them on a platter or baking sheet, cover lightly and return to the refrigerator. Combine brown sugar, vinegar, cinnamon stick and 2/3 cup water in a small saucepan. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat and simmer for 5 minutes, stirring constantly. Add lemon slices and raisins and simmer for 10 minutes more, stirring frequently. Remove from the heat, and let rest at room temperature for at least 30 minutes. Preheat oven to 350. Remove tenderloins from the refrigerator 30 minutes before cooking. Place them on a roasting rack set over a roasting pan and brush them generously with the liquid from the raisins. Roast the tenderloins for 2025 minutes, brushing them 2 or 3 times with the liquid from the raisins, until the meat reaches an internal temperature of 160 degrees. Remove tenderloins from the oven and let them rest for 10 minutes. Meanwhile, bring the raisins in their liquid to a boil for 3 minutes, remove the mixture from the heat and let it cool slightly. Cut tenderloins into 1/4-inch slices. Arrange on a serving platter, spoon the spiced raisins over them and serve immediately. < Contact Pat at patfusco@sonic.net.