Issue 03 / Summer 10 Issue 03 / Summer 10
Bright Tradeshow Berlin Room 260. makiaclothing.com
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Fotog�af: Sven Daubenfeld
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Editorial Marco Aslim, Thomas Martini and the ladies!
Story – News from the East.
Budapest, Prague, Krakow – oh yes, they’re all great cities. But who has actually paid them a visit? And who knows how the scene beyond the Oder River really ticks? Andreas Richter has done his research.
Report – SoTo, NoTo, ToWhat?
Berlin is developing rapidly. A visit to the Torstraße, a street on its way from social bankruptcy to becoming a firm fixture on the must-visit lists of Lonely Planet readers, trend scouts and shopaholics.
Feature – House 18
58–69 44–49 My Bright Uniform Our beloved team from sales & distribution will also be doing it in style in the capital. Here they’re showing us their showpiece outfits for the new season.
Shoot – Bright time, bright place
A little gold and silver, a dash of glitter... as well as wood, wool, cardboard, paper, blood and sweat, but no tears. How our models manage to pimp up the new Bright location and, despite putting their DIY skills to use, still manage to look fabulous!
News & Brands
People Shoot – You are very Berlin! Berlin is full of creative and maverick personalities. Bright presents ten of them who are really getting things off the ground!
Feature – Forwards? Always! Backwards? Only sometimes...
They have proofen their merit during the history of Bright – ten exhibitors from the early days reminisce about their first time!
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Story – The power of own brands!
Interview – Lem „Lemmy“ Villemin The young man from Stuttgart is currently busy conquering the skateboarding world – we slowed him down for a few minutes for an interview.
Printing your shop’s logo on a Tshirt might not be rocket science, but there are a lot of ins and outs to having your own label, as reported by Nicolette Scharpenberg.
108/109 Bright Brigade
98–105 Art Bright
The Art Bright space is growing, just like its concept. We present the “extended version” at the Berlin location, along with the fantastic participating artists and communicators.
Products Hard Facts – the new boards
The purse strings of our valued customers are tight. That would all be well and good, if only their lips were just as tightly sealed…
Quiksilver presents the Tony Hawk & Friends Show – Mr. Hawk is stopping off in Berlin and, in true American style, it’s going to be huge!
Sneakers, tees and things that the world needs now!
106/107 Media Partners
What would we do without them: the best and most valued online and print media – our media partners
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Girls’ names beginning with S and the faces behind them
Have you ever noticed how many girls’ names begin with S? We don’t want to say that we know them all, but for every S-name we can think of, there is a face to match it. Sabine from Forvert, Sonja who sings like Karen from the Carpenters, Sabrina Sabrina, who was more renowned for her cleavage than her singing, Silvia from New Box, Sladja who cleans for us, Suzanne from AA in Frankfurt, Sarah from Giessen, Sandra from Asics. Svenja does costume design, Simone writes for First Blue, Silvana is on the game, Silke does our marketing, Susie is at Levi’s, Steffi rides a skateboard, Serafina is Massimo’s mother and Sally works at Element. But the new lady in our life is called Stasi, Stasi Headquarters. We’d like to thank all of the fantastic women whose names begin with S, but especially you, Stasi. Stasi might still be your name, but your inglorious past is past tense now and your new face is Bright. And of course our thanks also go to all the ladies whose names begin with A, N and R! Marco Aslim and Thomas Martini, June 2010
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Bright GmbH & Co. KG Friedrich-Ebert-Anlage 13 60327 Frankfurt +49 (0)69 66962158 email@example.com www.brighttradeshow.com
Imprint creative direction Marco Aslim, Thomas Martini editor in chief / production Romy Uebel
photography Lars Borges, Rufus Exton, Paale Lüdcke, Thomas Schweigert, Thomas Wolfzettel, Robert Wunsch
editing production assistant
Florian Biedermann, Justin Beard
translation art direction
Galina Green, Paula Hedley
Tobias Friedberg, Paale Lüdcke
print text Florian Biedermann, Hans-Christian Bussert, Nada Carls, Andreas Grüter, Lydia Heckl, Jan Joswig, Will Kemp, Reinhold Köhler, Judith Christina Pierau, Andreas Richter, Nicolette Scharpenberg, Michael Sohn, Romy Uebel
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F&W Mediencenter GmbH Holzhauser Feld 2 83361 Kienberg www.fw-medien.de
Small-mindedness and prefabricated ways of life have the same kind of relationship with Robert Wunsch as folk music does with Berlin Mitte. Whilst his schoolmates were dealing sticker albums and stickers, ten-year-old Robert received his first camera and since then he’s preferred taking his own shots. Soon joining his love for photography was a pronounced passion for graffiti and hip-hop and whilst still at school the avowed native Berliner released several records and toured the country with his band Dejavue. He went on to study visual communications and worked for several years as a graphic designer and art director, until deciding to concentrate more on his photography in 2008. Robert still lives in Berlin and works not only as a freelance photographer, but is also photo editor at Highsnobiety.
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Once Nora has wound her way through the piles of hold-alls bulging with clothes, she makes a beeline from her home to a second-hand shop or flea market to snap up the latest bargains. She used to sell her loot in her own store “Salon Vow”, but nowadays she fills her small room with it, totally losing track of it all. Working round the clock on diverse styling jobs – jewellery design in New York, order deadlines in Paris or as costume designer at the theatre. She still never has any money, because she spends every cent on health food. To keep fit, she whizzes around Berlin on her Dutch-style bicycle, oblivious of any traffic regulations, dreaming of a car-free Sunday.
Reinhold has a lot to make up for as an ex-Waldorf pupil. Nowadays the 36-year-old concept-developer, writer and marketing advisor drinks Coke Zero by the litre, has a thing for streetwear and has enough sneakers to adorn the feet of 17 large families. After several years of freelancing and working for IQ Style, ZFK and Liebling his last job entailed looking after the “Beck’s Gold Urban Experiences” platform at Silk Relations. Since April Reinhold has been working for Vice agency’s VIRTUE Worldwide. And in the evenings he couldn’t give a damn whether his Vodka Martini is shaken or stirred as long as there are ashtrays on the table – preferably from Supreme or Original Fake. Bearing all of that in mind, Reinhold must be pretty close to achieving inner balance. Further proof of this: his skate decks now hang on his living room wall. Without any trucks, wheels or scratches.
He glides across the snow on 20year-old unshaped old-school skis, he can’t get past three metres on a skateboard before falling off, and if seen standing on a surfboard, it’s generally because there’s no waves. But despite these clear and serious biographical deficits, Florian deserves the veteran’s cross when it comes to streetwear journalism. Until 2009 he worked as lector, author and editor-in-chief at “Streetwear Today” for what seemed like forever, and he has also enriched many other publications of this genre with his words as a writer or his corrections as lector. For this and past Bright issues he has unstintingly committed himself to the hunt for mistakes and gaffes. Other than that, Florian has been buying up private slide collections from house sales, which he presents in slide shows and offers on the internet, under the name Dunix-Lichtbilder. In addition, he is president, trainer, groundskeeper and press spokesman for the fairest Bochum voluntary league football club of all times, FC Porno Villa.
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After an unsuccessful application to act in the German soap “Gute Zeiten, Schlechte Zeiten” Marius decided to use his creativity to earn money. Alongside studying product design he earned a crust as stable boy in photo-love stories in the children’s horse magazine Wendy, as well as working as a bartender and backstage DJ in the Berlin club scene. Recently, in his free time the cheerful soul has been enthusiastically designing concepts for pop-up sets and making small objects and accessories, which no one needs, but everyone wants. In doing so, he combines materials from his East German childhood and West German youth, with new techniques and materials. He shows a tendency towards delusions of grandeur, as his set design for the Bright shoot makes perfectly clear.
Jan Joswig is a typical “that’s-theupshot” writer, one of these supplement types who has no truck with ‘serious’ topics like politics and economy. He studied art history as well as the streets, and writes amongst others, for Zoo Magazine, Zitty, taz, Intersection, De:Bug and sounds-like-me.com. At De:Bug he established the fashion section and championed the renaissance of Dickies chinos (sadly, in vain). He got to know the world from a skateboard perspective (Tony Hawk’s board for G&S, because he’s just as tall as Hawk) and for years he couldn’t choose between Slayer and Curtis Mayfield. He lives in Berlin, it’s been years since he wore a T-shirt and, as a genuine Prussian, he can’t stand slacker lingo, like “hang loose”, “think pink” and “gimme five”.
Haus 18 – A journey through time
The new home of Bright can look back on an eventful past, but if you’re thinking torture chambers and detention cells, then you’re barking up the wrong tree. “Haus 18” was originally part of the gigantic building complex of the Ministry for State Security and was used as their service and supply wing. Founded in 1950, the Secret Service of the German Democratic Republic gradually settled in the Lichtenberg district. Formerly a normal residential area of Berlin, it was systematically redesigned and this restructuring claimed, amongst others, a New Apostolic church and several residential buildings in the architectural style known as New Objectivity, by the architect Bruno Taut.
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By the mid-1980s a 22 hectare area, equivalent to a small town, had been developed within the city, which was shrouded in mystery and hermetically sealed off. At that time the entire State Security force of the GDR had around 91,000 full-time and more than 100,000 inofficial employees. This meant that the GDR had the largest surveillance rate of the Eastern bloc: there was one State Security (or Stasi) worker for every 180 GDR citizens.
An estimated 5000 to 7000 people worked in Berlin’s Stasi city during the eighties. The complex, comprising 40 buildings, housed training centres, offices, archives and the remand prison in the nearby Magdalenenstraße. As part of the overpowering ensemble “Haus 18” was built between 1979 and 1982. The building served a simple purpose: the employees of the Ministry for State Security no longer had to leave the premises if they wanted to fetch provisions or make use of services. As well as conference and dining rooms there was also a supermarket, a hairdressers, a travel agency and even a souvenir shop of the Stasi football club BFC Dynamo. In typical GDR style, luxury goods and delicacies were supplied as a means by which to reward and motivate loyal state citizens. And there was no sign of any shortages here. Smoked glass window panes imported from Belgium kept out prying eyes; in meeting rooms fine wood panels from VEB Intercor oozed late GDR elegance. The prestigious building
boasted luxuries like air conditioning and a modern cinema theatre with simultaneous interpretation facilities. In his secret office on the third floor, the head of the Stasi, Erich Mielke, even had a self-cleaning toilet seat installed, imported especially from near Augsburg. On 15 January 1990, just a few weeks after the Fall of the Wall, thousands of GDR demonstrators from the citizens’ movement stormed the grounds and were left reeling with anger and astonishment: at the canteen hall with smoked eel and prawns on the menu, at store rooms full of tins of shark fin soup or at the hairdressing salon with shampoo from the West. After the demise of the GDR regime Deutsche Bahn (German Rail) purchased the building and has used certain parts of it ever since; for seven years “Haus 18” served as a congress centre and has stood empty since 1997. If you’re interested in finding out more about the building then it’s worth paying a visit to the Stasi Museum, which can be found to the right of the Bright entrance area. Your trade fair ticket entitles you to free entrance. During Bright you can also see a special exhibition on the third floor and chat to a museum representative about the building’s history.
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adidas x Burton
Soulland Hot Fusion
Text: Andreas Richter Skipping through Soulland’s collection feels like a history lesson in fast forward. And it’s pretty amazing what 24year-old Silas Adler, head of the Copenhagen label, has got off the ground since it was established in 2002. Due to Silas’ vision, what started out as a T-shirt thing quickly developed into a respected and impulse-setting think tank for contemporary men’s fashion, without ever losing sight of tradition – the history of style at its most modern!
Soulland is very clearly a Scandinavian label and the AW10 collection in particular expresses the idea of heritage. According to Silas, who now lives in Paris, it is the colours of Scandinavia’s wilderness and original hunting attire, wood cutters’ and farmers’ clothing that define the spirit of the label. A spirit that is put into a contemporary context in the hands of the designer. For example robust wool jackets, oilskin coats and Norwegian ponchos can be found in the collection, which confidently skirts around the traps of traditional and folk costume, instead, remaining one step ahead of the fashion status quo with its restrained and free-thinking interpretation. A simple demonstration of how tradition and urban chic can come together was Silas’ idea when he combined a classic fedora with a baseball cap to create a completely new type of headgear. The presence of the cap created quite a stir, and no doubt the same will be true of the other Soulland items.
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adidas Originals x Burton Snowboards
Text: Judith Christina Pierau What do you get when the most traditional German sports item manufacturer embarks on a liaison with a genuine US snowboard giant? The answer is a limited edition streetwear collection that is not just perfect for the streets, but also for the slopes. The creative teams from adidas Originals and Burton have joined forces to design seven shoe models and 21 apparel items for men, equipped with a successful logo fusion of the trefoil and the dynamic Burton arrow. Casually tailored jackets, winter boots, reminiscent of the good old snowboard boots, and sneakers with alpine sport elements like eyelets, make it clear that there’s still a lot more to be said when it comes to the subject of collaborations. The succesfull combination of classic adidas cuts with alpine sport materials and the Burton-typical snowboard look should also impress fans further afield than the world of the Matterhorn, ski lodges and Almdudler – available from autumn 2010 at selected adidas Originals and Burton flagship stores!
NONOT Et vice versa
Text: Nada Carls Although their name sounds like total refusal, the brains behind NONOT have already got a lot off the ground. The “agency for visual communication and brotherhood for verbal discussion”, which was founded in 2008 by Fabian Borlein and Eklil Qani from Frankfurt, has made a point of being independently minded right from the outset. Instead of making the mainstream happy with the umpteenth funny logo shirt, their statements manifest themselves in the form of images, collages and snap shots on T-shirts and art prints. Their way of distorting reality gives them the opportunity to combine art and criticism on both a communicative and a creative level. This is one reason why exclusive shops like Azita in Frankfurt and WoodWood in Copenhagen, Vienna and Berlin have added their latest collection “PARA DIES WÄRTS” to their ranges. Anyway, Bright Tradeshow considers itself very lucky to have the pair design the cover of this seasons ad. “The motif deals with the move from Frankfurt to Berlin, especially with the new location, which after the imperial police headquarters in Frankfurt is upping the ante once more: the Stasi Headquarters in Disneyland Berlin. With our approach it was important to us to underline the architectonic character and thereby emphasise the building: rectangular, straight, deep, wide. A little dirty, dark and murky, but also light and above all, radiantly bright. A change, which we have also incorporated into the motif. Movement, change, something new.“ NONOT contradicts the cliché of the aspiring creative agency desperate for self-presentation. On the contrary, the boys seem almost reserved and aloof at first and prefer to think about their answers, then succinctly come
to the point. The concept behind their work? “A stock-check of contemporary phenomena and interpersonal relations”. With technical drawings, historical diagrams, political key figures and abstract figurative shapes, they reflect their style of “maximum confusion” and thereby display their very own understanding of illustration. It’s about more than just fashion here.
And in the future? What’s certain is that there will be a 5th anniversary collaboration T-shirt for Azita. Also in the pipeline is a uniform for the ‘Widerstand gegen Wiederstand’ movement, in order to make it harder for the authorities to identify card-carrying activists. The boys are looking forward to hearing your feedback and input: firstname.lastname@example.org “There’s a lot to be done. NONOT should never limit itself to just clothing: perhaps there’ll soon be an architect’s office, or finally the long-awaited porcelain.”
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Reality Studio Reality check: passed
Text: Hans-Christian Bussert There is often a very fine line between streetwear and fashion. Which makes it all the more astonishing that Svenja Specht is achieving the balancing act so well. Her collections, which are distributed under the moniker Reality Studio, are attracting attention amongst fashionable girls, who, without the slightest hint of irony would describe themselves as “fashionfashion”. At the same time she has designed a trainer for Asics Onitsuka Tiger, which girls are receiving as gifts from their sneaker-head boyfriends. Yes, she only designs for women
Libertine–Libertine Liberté toujours
Text: Hans-Christian Bussert
and, yes, the name is a reference to William Burroughs. But the artistic-cultural capacities of the designer are by no means exhausted: a visual highlight of her FW10 collection is a camouflage, created in collaboration with the artist Michael Kalki, of which several insiders are already speculating that it is heralding the long overdue disruptive pattern material revival. But the fact that the circle of Svenja Specht’s fans has considerably grown recently is definitely not only due to the bright, floral blousons, dresses and leggings. The English highstreet retailer Topshop asked her to create a few garments because they see in her current collection what her fashionably wised-up customers from all over the world already see: well-thought out basics and key pieces, which are fashionably way ahead and yet still exude a certain nonchalance. And by the way, all of the designs that leave the Reality Studio in Berlin-Friedrichshain are made in Germany. Made in Thuringia, to be precise.
A label that is more than simply yet another fashion upstart. It’s a demand that most founders have of their baby. Not many new labels, however, exceed their own expectations to the extent of Libertine-Libertine. A visitor to the label’s website could be forgiven for thinking the Danes are simply an artists’ collective that also coincidentally produces fashion. Perhaps that’s because, since the label was founded in 2009, Rasmus Bak, Pernille Schwarz and Peter Munch Ovesen have only offered a small hand-picked men’s collection. But even if this is being extended in FW2010 with a ladies’ collection, setting a fashionable black contrast to the workwear-inspired men’s collection, the libertarian spirit remains. At present the flame is kept alight with the film shorts shown on their website that have virtually nothing whatsoever to do with fashion: flag signals on the Danish coast, monochrome shots of Brooklyn, sticky-tapecovered street lights in Paris. These extra projects will be continued in the near future, with for example the album release of their musician friend Pantherman. But despite all of this: fashion will always play the leading role at Libertine-Libertine. For SS2011 there will be a collection for men and women in which they will be experimenting with different types of textiles. From camouflage to water-repellent nylons, all the way down to quilted fabrics. The emphasis, true to the label’s spirit, will be on excellent tailoring and durability – and in that respect even free spirits can be very traditional.
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Penfield Keeping it warm
Text: Andreas Richter
Text: Hans–Christian Bussert What do the Beach Boys, hipster kids and streetwear fans all over the world have in common? Their love of woollen shirts. Pendleton shirts to be precise. The Beach Boys’ love was so ardent that at the start of their career in the 1950s they even called themselves the Pendletones. The original shirt was produced in 1924 by C.M. Bishop, the head of the family business, based in Oregon. He took the original woollen shirt, which was valued by many men for its robustness, but until then only available in monotonous colours – and gave it the typical Pendleton look, with checks and archetypal American patterns. The necessary know-how was already in place as the company’s own weaving mill was already specialised in the production of colourful Indian trade blankets. The shirt was soon to become a typical American symbol and Pendleton grew to become a lifestyle brand with a collection for men and women, plus a home collection, which was always authentic but hardly what one would call cool. Until the day the trendsetters from Opening Ceremony got in on the act! Together they developed a collection and gave it the necessary kick-start: after the cooperation with the kids from New York, collaborations with Junya Watanabe from Comme des Garçons, Edwin and Nike followed in 2010. For 2011 Magnus Carstensen, who brought Pendleton over to Europe, promises to generate quite a bit of hype too. Until then the European retail trade can look forward to discovering the core collection of jackets, accessories and, of course, the shirts. www.pendleton-europe.com
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Throughout its history Penfield has slowly but surely reached the age at which one would usually sit back and watch the grass grow – it’s 35 years since the label was founded. But they’ve had a few quieter times too. After establishing itself as the gold standard when it came to uncompromisingly warm down jackets during the eighties and making them essential winter items, the 1990s ended up being the decade for Penfield to take a bit of a time out. Since 2005, Penfield is back, without becoming staid: on the contrary, they seem visibly rejuvenated. The collections, with the same emphasis on functionality and outdoor suitability, have a stylishness that one would wish for from many comparable labels. After this image update it doesn’t really matter whether you are checking out the White Mountains of New England or waiting in line for a club in New York. Penfield is worn in either environment,with the certainty that you will survive even the most bitterly cold conditions perfectly dressed. The label was clever enough to speed up their streetwear credibility with repeated sensational collaborations. Amongst others, Penfield has already worked together with Rag & Bone, Staple, Limoland, WoodWood and Stüssy. The almost obligatory claim of exclusivity was ensured by offering the items via prestigious distribution channels like Colette, Edifice and The Glade. The meanwhile established ‘form follows function’ line has once again been perfected with the current SS2011 collection. The selection of jackets in particular abounds with classic cuts, perfected details and presence of mind.
Shaken, not stirred!
Text: Will Kemp Many brands in this business claim to be a cocktail of styles, influences and inspiration. But this is particularly apt for Swedish sneaker makers Jim Rickey: its founders Henrik Standerth and Patrik Lakso actually found the name for their company in a cocktail book and their influences are as eclectic a mix as this would suggest. As Standerth explains, “I guess we look at a lot of vintage shoes, classic silhouettes, but we don't really have one source and it's not limited to shoes.” The original Jim Rickey was an American colonel who was so impressed by a cocktail bartender’s new gin creation that he decided to start importing the limes used to make
it. And while the Jim Rickey sneaker fiends don’t import fruit, they did start out their careers as reps for other shoe brands being imported to Sweden. But the two friends were dissatisfied with the offerings of the homegrown Swedish 18 – Bright Magazine
sneaker industry and decided to start their own brand back in 2006. Their aim was “to bridge the gap between casual and athletic shoes by producing quality kicks with unique design, premium qualities and comfort”. To achieve this quality, all Jim Rickey products are made by hand in small factories with limited production lines. This means closer production supervision, which ensures the quality their products are known for. And when it comes to their new high-end Podium sneaker line, they go even further: only premium nappa leathers from exclusive leather tanneries are used, and the collection is limited to just eleven stockists worldwide. “This line is our ultimate dream…It’s as if the heart and brain of Jim Rickey had a baby,” explain the proud parents. All this attention to detail means that the shoes these guys make don’t just look good, but perform well too. This was proven when they were approached to produce shoes for the Spanish Formula One team Hispania F1 Racing. When the team approached them, the Jim Rickey boys didn’t have to think twice. So how have the duo achieved this much success in just four years? The secret, it seems, is “a lot of hard work, a lot of love and a brilliant team that
eats, sleep and breathes Jim Rickey”. The company was started with the time-tested approach of focusing on the taste of the founders and hoping other people agreed. And it worked: Jim Rickey now has operations in Paris,
Stockholm, Milan, Berlin, Copenhagen, Helsinki, Oslo, Amsterdam, Seoul, and Tokyo. But the brand is still true to its roots and the unique cocktail of people that makes up the Jim Rickey customer base: “Our sneakers are created and made for people like us. People who enjoy high-end quality combined with supreme design. And if our customers like to flip some indie records or if they think Vanilla Ice’s one-hit-wonder ‘Ice Ice Baby’ is the best song ever, we don’t care...”
Iriedaily The Iriedaily Scavenger Hunt
Text: Nada Carls
Corners from the Kanton
Text: Nada Carls Know this: the basis of a prism is a triangle. Optically, depending on the angle of the light-occurrence, it can split the light or reflect and multiply it. Fabien Baudin certainly thought long and hard about the name of his mini-label, founded in 2006 in Frenchspeaking Switzerland, and made the properties of a prism his philosophy: diverse artists work for prism with no artistic restrictions, which repeatedly leads to unexpected optical effects, new graphic dimensions and, recently, to entire collections. Baudin’s aim is rather likeable, clear and suddenly not quite so scientific: he wants to be able to work freely and independently and sees himself as the interface for like-minded spirits and friends. With artists like +41, ill studio and Yann Gross, has friends and colleagues that are pleased with the results of his formula. The current collection is the first to be built around a theme: Phoenix. Ideas for metaphors and parallels? That’s the homework for the next issue – find the question on the Prism homepage or ask for it at Bright.
Just sitting around is not part of the plan. At least not for those who want to keep up with the Kreuzberg streetwear activists this summer and join them in their battle cry: “Nobody move – nobody gets anywhere”. Iriedaily is inviting you to the scavenger hunt of the year. With their FW collection they are also bringing a sack-load of extravagant details to start the season: eccentric colour combinations, unexpected material mixes, streetwear influenced chic and simple elegance. Childhood memories will be reawakened with the event concept and the synonymous collection theme: rushing through the city in teams, searching for information and clues, and at the end of it all you might even be the winner of a bulging Iriedaily survival pack from one of the local retailers. If you want to have a chance, make sure you keep your eyes open!
Element Conscious by Nature
Text: Nada Carls True to Element’s mission statement of “being a positive force in the universe” they’re showing their responsibility by approaching the subject of environmental protection and textile production and giving their new denim range an appropriate title: “Conscious by Nature”. The SS 2011 collection, made of the tradition-steeped material includes ten models with a large selection of cuts, colours and washes. With new labelling and hang tags made of 100% unbleached recycled paper the brand is paying detailed attention to the consistent implementation of their mission. Since the brand’s early days, Element has continuously been trying to promote an environmentally conscious way of life by making the production, packaging and distribution of their products more environmentally-friendly. Whether with the processing of organic cotton or Sonora® polyester, a material made from corn flour, they are advocating progress through environmental awareness. Element is focusing on gentle farming practices without chemical pesticides, growth enhancers or genetic engineering, while concentrating on renewable raw materials, which significantly reduces the energy consumption and CO2 emissions during production. More hard facts can be found on the Elementarian website.
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So, so British!
Text: Lydia Heckl If there’s a label that was in the right place at the right time, then it’s Merc. The British fashion brand first saw the light of day in the legendary Swinging Sixties and established itself in London’s Mecca for fashion, pop culture and youth movements – Carnaby Street. Mods, skinheads, punks and rude boys have influenced the Merc style over the years, giving the stuffy, antiquated term of gentlemen’s outfitter a thorough shake up. And although the music scene has become more and more multi-faceted over the last few decades, the Brits are still paying tribute today to bands like The Beatles, The Rolling Stones and The Who, with classic suits, polos, shirts, cardigans and parkas.
Faster! Harder! Iuter!
Text: Andreas Grüter
Alongside quality and a real English sense of style the brand is mainly scoring points for its exemplary company philosophy, as the founder Javid Alavi places particular emphasis on cooperation with long-standing, loyal employees. And with success – Merc is now represented in 45 countries all over the world, although the wave only swept over to Germany at the end of 2009. Since last November the Düsseldorf agency Burning Business Distribution has been ensuring that the chic casualwear is available here in Germany, primarily from independent multi-brand stores like Mischwaren in Düsseldorf, Wohngemeinschaft in Essen, British Empire in Nuremberg and Frontplay, Vampyr Deluxe and Depot 2 in Berlin. And gaining more and more popularity amongst retailers and end consumers is the cult series of figurines, which are caricatures of the different music scenes from mod to skin down to Brit popper and increasing in collector’s value all the time. In the pipeline for the near future is the launch of the new Merc women’s collection, which should be hitting shelves in winter 2010. Although they’re still keeping schtum about what’s in the cards for summer 2011, the styles will be clean and sleek and reduced to the bare essentials, that much is sure. Or in the words of Merc: “Style never fades. The Merc look is sleek, sharp and stylish. Constantly changing but unmistakably Merc.”
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Who? What? Iuter? Feel free to grab your Italian dictionary, but you’ll be searching in vain! The label was established in 2002 in Milan by a bunch of snowboard kids. The name refers to an insider joke that is virtually inexplicable for outsiders. The Label finally came of age in 2010 when it grew out of its graphic-shirts-only phase. And so after several rather tentative sweater and trouser projects, for the first time in the 2011 summer season there will be a complete 70-part collection, which alongside tees also includes an extensive range of reversible sweaters, jackets, windbreakers, denims and shorts. And for those of you who are cattily thinking: “Oh, so you’re all grown up now, are you!?” you can rest assured that the Italians, who are notorious for their excessive partying, are still refusing to forgo extroverted colour dalliances and experimental collaborations. As well as work by diverse European art buddies this time around there are also designs by the busy Japanese art front campaigners Mahk and Shohei. Those who insist on a more understated style, will find what they’re looking for from Iuters´ sister label Uppercut, which, despite being new, is already renowned for its sophisticated tailoring and high-quality fabrics. So far, both brands are only available in Italy, Japan, Switzerland and several selected stores in the rest of Europe.
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Asics SportStyle Drawers and Tigers
Text: Nada Carls We think that drawers belong in the cupboard. Or they should be used to decorate the lovingly designed Asics/Onitsuka Tiger trade fair booth at last winter’s Bright. If you’re thinking: “Asics? Aren’t they the sports shoes guys?” then it’s time to stop putting people in drawers. It’s true that Asics are successful and trendsetting when it comes to manufacturing functional footwear for the sports sector and that they supply many athletes all over the world. But the Japanese brand has now also firmly established itself in the lifestyle sector. The origins of the company go back 60 years to the founding of Onitsuka Tiger by Kihachiro Onitsuka – adaptations of the traditional models are presented in the Asics Heritage line, regularly thrilling the sneaker community with limited editions and exciting collaborations. But the fact that Asics can be sporty AND stylish is proven by the fitting name Asics SportStyle. It includes styles like the Retro Runner GT II and Gel-Lyte III, in ever changing new colours, the comfortable Court Rebel, the narrow superlight Midcut Kaeli and the Midtop Procourt Hi, which will be available as a basketball-shape in suede from summer 2011. There is one drawer, however, that it’s okay to put Asics in: that they will build one of the most creative booths at the Bright trade fair. We’re eagerly awaiting the latest ideas from the Japanese-German super décor duo, Asics marketing boss Gordon Nowak and designer Yoske Nishiumi!
The Hundreds Endless Bombing
Text: Nada Carls Even though bloggers and internet surfers have probably already known for quite awhile now, we’d like to take this opportunity to print the news on Bright paper: Ben and Bobby Hundreds, founders of the L.A. label The Hundreds and inventors of Adam Bomb a.k.a. the smirking bomb logo, have been making more than just tees and caps for a long time now. The latest men’s collection by the skate-surf-punk-hip-hop-inspired brand offers everything from head to footwear, from knitwear to denim, as well as an unmissable palette of goodies and accessories. Since it was founded in 2003, The Hundreds has been growing continuously: worldwide over 400 shops sell their products; their homepage meanwhile attracts 31,000 visitors per day. Along the lines of “a new year, a new project” they are really stepping on the gas: in 2007 the opening of the first flagship store in L.A., in 2008 the next one in San Francisco, plus the launch of a footwear line, in 2009 they went on to release a biannual print magazine and their sunglasses range which are produced in Italy. For 2010 the first East Coast branch is in the pipeline with the third flagship in New York City and after that? Surely that’s enough to do justice to the slogan “The Hundreds is Huge”?
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The secret shirt society
Pyromaniac Arts on Fire
Text: Andreas Grüter
Text: Nada Carls
éveil is pronounced ‘evey’ and means something like “waking up”, “awakening”. éveil also means a lively, curious character and since 1998 it has been the name of a Cologne-based streetwear label too. Although the term “streetwear” doesn’t quite cover it when it comes to the one-person “art vs. textiles” ménage of its founder Markus Buddenbrock. The 36-year-old with a skateboarding background rekindles the classic DIY feeling with his hand printed shirts made on his own screen printing machine. But he also likes to stray from the well-trodden path in order to dedicate himself to
Kian Gerowgan, Markus Joos and Pablo Fontanier from Heidelberg in Germany don’t mess around: with their label Pyromaniac Clothing the trio has been combining streetwear with big names from the street-art and graffiti scene since 2005. Whereas most labels in the street segment do collaborations every now and then as a special event, guest appearances are a firm fixture in the Pyromaniac concept. Every newly released collection is designed together with artists or crews and the list of previous partners is just as long as it is impressive: Can2, Banos, Smash, Scotty76, Kaneone, Stohead, Superblast, Satone, Disturbanity, Toast and I Are Ugly , are just a few of the renowned artists. But they also enjoy working together with rhyming pioneers of the German hip-hop scene such as Toni L and Too Strong, or Breakdance crews and dancers like Physical Funk and Bubble Zoo. At Bright 2010 in the summer, for the first time Pyromaniac will be presenting its cooperation with the German-Korean graffiti crew “Seoulmates” and presenting jackets, windbreakers, hoodies, zippers, shorts and T-shirts for the impending hot season. For friends of creative firestarters, just drop in for some correct graffiti input and to pay the Pyros a flying visit!
extensive art-only projects, which have already been documented in diverse exhibitions. The latest example of the éveil crossover tactic, as well as collaborations with Stefan Marx, Vincent Gootzen and Christian Roth, is its work with Berlin artist, musician and Haute Areal Records head honcho Fred Rapid. Instead of releasing his first single on vinyl or CD, Rapid brought out a doublelabelled T-shirt format with a download code and éveil contributed the graphics for his latest art book meets download album ‘Glassworks’. In the pipeline for the summer, as well as new cotton bags, cushions and re-releases of a few old classics, are cooperative works with the two Hamburg artists and graphic artists Heiko Müller and Sölve Hartkopf. Beyond that, the future, as always, is unwritten!
Smoke on the water
Text: Lydia Heckl Three guys, a shared passion for surfing and a few hooded tops – that was the status of Shisha in the year 2004. The likeable label from Kiel, with Christoph and Johann Schwarz and Kai Rautenberg at the helm, has meanwhile blossomed into an active streetwear brand, which, together with the Ease Club, has also been vigorously stirring up Kiel’s clubbing scene since October 2008. Despite such nightlife activities the intention of the label remains clear: surfing, unwinding and on top of that also managing to deliver fashionable feel-good clothing! At the focus of the collection are cosy hoodies with or without a zip, which impress more with their subtle tailoring and first-class fabrics than with wild graphic experiments. In summer 2011 the range will be expanded further: alongside the tried-and-tested basics there will also be little feminine dresses, tunics and skirts for the girls – sometimes basic, sometimes checked, sometimes with a floral interpretation, but sporty as always. For the boys it is shirts, some with a hood, that are celebrating a premiere, while lightweight jackets and cardigans round off the selection. With an efficient distribution network Shisha is meanwhile up and running throughout the whole of Germany, although that doesn’t mean they will stop rocking the North of course.
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Dickies Show off
Text: Florian Biedermann When the models are sporting beer paunches, tattoos and beards, brandishing power drills, hammers or similar equipment then the label they’re wearing is most likely Dickies. The US brand doesn’t just flirt with the term workwear, it has also been instrumental in defining it for a good three quarters of a century. Dickies trousers and shirts in particular are often the first choice of uniform when the going gets tough, dirty and sweaty. The American label stands for robust, durable and welltailored clothing that, since the 1970s has been increasingly worn by the civilian population. A lot of subcultures discovered the charm of the both hard-wearing and comfortable clothing that is completely free of all frippery and gimmicks and turns into a kind of second skin for all those who occasionally fall, run fast or have the occasional brush with a wall or lamp post – skaters, hip-hoppers, bikers and graffiti artists being prime examples.
True to style, without coming across as antiquated or dogmatic, Dickies has managed to keep styles and cuts relatively close to the original throughout its history. So it’s fitting that in 2010 they are digging really deep into the archives, all the way back to the founding year of 1922, in order to revive four pieces from the 1920s and 1930s. Created true to the original designs, they are woven on an ancient weaving loom. The classic amongst the Dickies workwear trousers, the 874, is being re-launched in cooperation with Stüssy, which until now was only available in Japan, but will at last see the
global light of day in the shops. Further highlights include the cooperation with Antihero and Spitfire, which is still under wraps, but will be hitting shelves in August. In addition, the Hide-Out Store in London is bringing out a few slim-fit shirts in cooperation with Dickies, for their valued and spoilt clientele.
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Anti Establishment, Pro Youth
Text: Nada Carls In 1991 when Richard Woolcott and Tucker Hall got snowed in during their snowboarding holiday in Tahoe they didn’t really mind, they noticed that snowboarding was more important to them than the job that was waiting for them when they got back. So, they extended their holiday, quit their jobs, borrowed 5000 Dollars from dad and got started on their mission of establishing Volcom, their own clothing company for skating, surfing and snowboarding. Endowed with a decent portion of creativity and rebelliousness, today the pair still lives and works according to the motto “Youth against Establishment”. And that is more than just a hackneyed adolescent cliché: they actually practice what they preach! With the L.T.K.R.F. (Let the Kids Ride Free) contest the Volcom bosses have been showing for ten years now how much they enjoy making it possible for the kids to have snowboarding fun in all seasons. In winter there is the L.T.K.R.F. Snow Edition, in summer the Wild in the Parks skateboard version and in the USA an additional counterpart in the surfing category. Volcom encourages the kids by organising laid-back contests without a registration fee, free food and drinks included, with pros boarding in their own league. This allows every local snotty-nosed brat who thinks they’re up to it to participate in the contest and hope to go on and compete in the European and US finals. At the end of the day the boarders go home with bulging goodie bags, having had the chance to get a taste of life as a pro. From May to September this year’s L.T.K.R.F. skate tour “Wild in the Parks” is making its way through cities like Stockholm, Athens, Milan and Hamburg, with the big European finale taking place on 25 September 2010 at the Mystic Skatepark in Prague.
Text: Andreas Grüter So you think that the snowboard must be the only board you can use to get around in Iceland? Far from it, as Nikita is proving. The streetwear label, founded in 1999 by designer and board shop owner Heida Birgisdóttir in Reykjavik, pretty much established the highly active Icelandic skate and surf scene all by itself, which is no mean feat considering they had a girls-only collection. A pretty daring project in a traditionally male domain like boardsports, which nevertheless soon led to the stylish but also functionally craftily designed clothes for “girls who ride” becoming the talk of the town on an international scale. Nikita gradually extended its radius of activities and opened branches in Hamburg, San Francisco and Hossegor. With Nikita Selekzion a solely fashion collection was added and since the launch of the anagrammatic Atikin they are finally also catering to the eagerly anticipated boys’ segment. Nowadays the company distributes to 1500 selected streetwear and board shops worldwide. With their tops, dresses, denims, overalls, sweaters and shirts the Icelanders are delivering a daring mix of South American folklore and a more reserved Scandinavian design school look for the SS2011 season. And it goes without saying that in addition to the extroverted print patterns and colour schemes, they also have an ace up their sleeves with the wellcrafted detailing on their range of accessories. Another bold decision was incorporating the label’s own jewellery into the collection.
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Hurley Endless Hurley Summer
Text: Judith Christina Pierau In 1999 when board shaper Bob Hurley decided to set up a surf label he certainly wouldn’t have guessed that just a few years later it would go on to become one of the most successful brands on the scene and a member of the Nike family. The secret of his success: as an insider he knows the needs of the scene as well as he knows the inside of his board shorts pocket. iPhone applications and a documentary film with moving pictures about the Hurley team surfer Rob Marchado are currently just two reasons why the American label is enjoying an excellent reputation in the surfing world. In the performance sector it was mainly the development of the Phantom
Bright coloured through the urban jungle
Text: Judith Christina Pierau Is it ever the right time for a beige T-shirt with a tiger print? Designers Rikke Charlotte Laren and Nicole Rindsig from Rütme say: of course, always! The sub-label of the streetwear brands Nümph and Humör, which are already well established on the market, experiments with unusual necklines, bright colours and prints. And what about the people who wear the label? Well, they have music in their ears and their feet firmly on the pedals winding their way through the urban jungle, they are always somewhere between coffee-to-go and their next blog entry. The blog the two ladies write also illustrates the fact that the collection is a mirror image of the designers themselves. Label info, style photos, inspiration trips – their exciting network of day-to-day doings shouldn’t be dissimilar to that of the Rütme wearers. The collection for this forthcoming autumn season will be defined by colourful, oversized knitted pullovers, jodhpurs with a low crotch and jersey dresses with extravagant shoulders. All kinds of materials make an appearance, from chunky knit to jersey down to denim – but despite all of this variety there is a common thread that runs through the collection: wearable at all times and on almost every occasion! In the spirit of the label: basically for urban girls whose Facebook photo albums resemble chic look books!
Surfshorts in 2007 that caused a sensation. Made of high-tech materials they are stretchier, lighter and more water-repellent than those of their competitors. They won’t automatically improve your surfing talent, but there’s no need for anyone to be sitting around on the beach in wet shorts anymore. Four different versions of the Phantom Boardshorts are meanwhile available; pro-surfers especially swear by the brand new Phantom Nike Flywire. You can experience and admire the well-dressed gentlemen of the waves between August 1st – 8th at the Hurley US–Open of Surfing. As well as the hefty 300,000 Dollars prize money, a BMX area and a skate park right by the beach will also be attracting visitors. And where surfers and skaters unite... you can be sure that sexy girls in skimpy bikinis won’t be very far away.
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Text: Michael Sohn Quality: high. Styles: classic. Manufacturer and materials: first-class. These are the key facts for Carhartt’s FW2010 collection. And let’s be honest: we expected no less from the traditional label. The company, which was founded by Hamilton Carhartt in Detroit, Michigan has been producing robust workwear for a good 120 years now. In 1889 Carhartt started out with just four sewing machines and a staff of five, before rapidly expanding, and was already clothing railway workers throughout the whole of North America and parts of Europe at the beginning of the 20th century. Today the company employs around 3000 people. In 1994 Work In Progress took over the distribution in Europe and quickly recognised that different rules apply in our neck of the woods than they do overseas. Three years later they were setting trends with the first items produced especially for this continent. And with its own BMX and skate team and the sponsoring of events like the European Skateboard Championships, the label soon attained a certain omnipresence on the streetwear scene. The secret of this success: an item of clothing from Carhartt is just as reliable as a good friend. While others are working on short-lived trends, in Michigan they have been operating a sustainable business for decades now. Perhaps the “Klondike Pant Magnum Selvedge” flirts a little too offensively with the gold digger adventurer cliché, but it is one thing above all else: durable. Here, men can still look like big boys and wrap themselves up in nice warm minimal jackets and coats, for which functionality is a foremost priority. And – like the Anchorage Parka – preferably also with fleecy faux fur, in order to keep out the snow when you’re queuing to get into the club and it’s minus ten outside. On the shirt front, here like elsewhere, at the end of 2010 checks, big or small, will continue to prevail. A special category of the FW collection is the product group of the Carhartt USA imports, which have been specially revised for the European market. The “Bib Overall”, the “Active Jacket”, the “Chore Coat” or the small acrylic knitted hat: all of them are good old friends that have had a decisive influence on the face of the brand and also street style. And it goes without saying that the ladies’ collection is also just as reliably classic and of an equally high quality.
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Oakley x C100 Hitting the Hundred Mark
Text: Nada Carls
Matix Matix goes Patriotic
Text: Nada Carls The makers of Matix focus on clear messages: they only produce clothing for boys, because they are boys themselves. As their clothes are worn for skating, surfing and snowboarding, they focus on durable and robust materials, instead of unnecessary added extras. And to minimise expanding globalisation excesses the gentlemen from California have made a helpful suggestion: with the “Capital Collection” that will be available in August the skate clothing label is focusing on high-quality production, “made in the USA”, which puts them way ahead as far as the subject of sustainability is concerned. With charcoal cotton and raw denim the line picks up on the background of original US workwear and combines it with details that are true to the Matix style. From a historical textile perspective this step is as understandable as it is consistent: while 95% of all the textiles worn in the USA were still being produced on American soil in 1965, the figure was more meagre in 2009 at just 5%. Producing cheaply abroad is no longer a must and rooting for one’s own domestic economy is an exemplary approach – definitely worth emulating!
Christian Hundertmark doesn’t just have a promising surname (which means one hundred mark, or Mark as in Deutsch Mark, in English!). The Munichbased designer is more renowned for his creative talent and his respectable and international reference list of collaborations, exhibitions and publications. His roots are in graffiti and in the 1990s he could be found out and about on the streets with painter buddy Flying Förtess. In 2003 the artist and qualified designer set up his own office in Munich
Supreme being Goldie & Matt Helders for Supremebeing
Text: Nada Carls
and since 2010 he’s been part-owner of the Helmet Gallery for Contemporary Art. Hundertmark has worked with different brands like Sony BMG, Nudie Jeans, Sonarkollektiv and Levi's. Since 2005, however, an especially close relationship has developed with Oakley. Together with the Californian brand he released his first signature sunglasses in 2007, and the latest C100 Artist Series Edition can be admired in the current SS 2010 collection. The most recent Oakley x C100 coup is an apparel line, which will be out in autumn, with pixelated logo prints on zippers, sweats, shirts and a pair of goggles. The must-see styles will be celebrating their release at the summer edition of Bright.
Supremebeing is one of the key players in British streetwear and their recipe is very simple: in 1999 they started out as friends doing what they enjoyed; over the years they have grown to become a real company, have stayed friends and are still doing what they enjoy. Alongside their creative work, promoting other talents is, of course, also part and parcel of their philosophy. Making an appearance at regular intervals are therefore different advocates who express their own style in the “Collaborate-Disseminate” collections. Currently on the case are the famous and dissimilar co-designers Goldie and Matt Helders. With “The Goldie Collection 2010” the drum’n’bass prodigy is harking back to the days of his sprayer past with lots of purple, black and dark blue on graffiti-signed tees, zippers and college jackets. The Arctic Monkeys’ drummer has gone for light yellow, blue and grey tones on checked shirts, blousons, hoodies and polos. Once again, whatever you like goes: just make sure it’s supreme!
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Text: Jan Joswig
Du bist very Berlin! Photos: Thomas Schweigert
Graphics star Eike König just had to end up in Berlin. As a system refusenik he complained that the capital city of creative improvisation only has a quarter of the heartbeat that Frankfurt, his previous location, has. But at the end of the day the music lover, who already turned down an offer from a tobacco company on moral grounds, is in exactly the right place with his graphic office “Hort” in anti-authoritarian Kreuzberg. “Hort” practices rising against the banal university system. What is required to be successful at university is so simple to figure out that the only option is refusal. So, instead, Eike König focuses on always starting with a clean slate, finding a new solution concept, new methodology, for every project and on no account merely taking on a previously defined style. The working atmosphere and office’s design aesthetic reflects
this concept: uncramped openness, playful dynamism. Whether developing a new design concept for Nike’s basketball star LeBron James, or designing album covers for Berlin bands like Jazzanova or Booka Shade, the defect always wins out over the perfect, it is consciously not smoothed over, an aesthetic that is drawn by the hand rather than the computer. At the moment it looks like they are developing into designer makeover artists for musicians starting the second chapters of their careers: Peter Heppner, Nina Hagen, Sido and No Angels have all been lifted to postadolescent levels. Sido’s design image was also completely turned around. Sido shook Eike’s hand in thanks, but only at their second meeting. Eike König likes that kind of brutal honesty. The self-congratulatory airs of directors are anathema to him: “We don’t use the term ‘senior’. If someone has a better idea than me, then that’s great. Everyone wants to be recognised as an artist. That’s of no interest to me. I’m fine with being a graphic designer.”
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A career that sounds like something straight out of an American economist’s handbook: at 18 Heinz “Cookie” Gindullis arrived in Berlin from Nuremberg, stone broke he started out washing dishes. Today, 18 years later, he not only owns a rapidly expanding gastro empire, but is also getting in on the internet act. But it’s not as if Cookie had a master plan when he set up a tiny cocktail bar in the basement of his apartment building in Berlin-Mitte more than 15 years ago. It was during this time that the foundation for Berlin’s anything-goes legend was laid. His luck, however, was fleeting. “We often had to move, because the houses were being refurbished. Which at the same time was an opportunity, otherwise I’d probably still be sitting in the basement now,” says Cookie in German with his
English accent, which comes from the time he spent in London as a child, as he grins out from underneath his obligatory black hat. And so his club Cookies, which is located in a former French culture cinema, is meanwhile not only renowned for its unisex toilets and the strict door policy, but above all for cultured excess. Directly above the club the vegetarian has fulfilled his dream with the restaurant Cookies & Cream: where top-class meat-free dishes are served. Yet any kind of dogmatism is alien to him. Which is why – and perhaps also due to economic considerations – he is allowing “fish and meat as a side dish” in his two new restaurants, which are called Chipps. Although his passion is gastronomy, Cookie has established a second business: when a friend noticed that it wasn’t very easy to find out which shop stocks which brands, they promptly founded the platform TheLabelFinder. Two years after the launch, 25,000 shops and the collections they stock are listed. Due to charging for the premium accounts and trafficgenerating cooperations with GQ, Vogue and Glamour, the investments are beginning to pay off. And once again he can finally relax the way he knows best: “By partying.”
www.cookies.ch www.cookiescream.com www.chipps.eu www.thelabelfinder.com
Heinz Gindullis aka Cookie
Text: Michael Sohn
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“Over the past year I’ve mainly been busy with films for fashion companies. Not only filming look books, although I have done that too, but mainly abstract shorts,” explains KenTonio Yamamoto. His eyes are showing signs of tiredness when he arrives at his office in Mitte at midday. The filmmaker spent half of the previous night in front of his computer. Ken supplies labels or designers like Nike, Stone Island, Acronym and Aitor Throup with moving images and animations, or contributes to music videos (e.g. Maximilian Hecker). In the process an aesthetic surfaces that is not, as one would suspect, reminiscent of computer games: “Skating, punk and hip hop overruled my predilection for computer games pretty early on,” says the 29-year-old, explaining where he sources his inspiration from. “I am inspired by directors who are state-of-the-art when it comes to their effects. Those who always try to push the boundaries, to explore uncharted territory, but still wrap it all up in a sensible story. For example Neill Blomkamp with ‘District 9’.” Ken, of German-Japanese origin, sees the industry as being in flux at the moment and is excited about new opportunities. “I am part of a generation that takes a kind of one-man-show approach to filming because modern technology enables us to make Hollywood quality films on a minibudget.” But he is still not a classic lone wolf. “I like working together with different people. Other people are often better at taking your own ideas to new interesting horizons than you are.” That’s why the capital city has a clear advantage when it comes to location: “Berlin is ideal for this kind of work. I am backed up by a whole pool of people who are prepared to try out something new without constantly having to think about how to pay the rent.” Already stored on Ken’s hard drive are plans for further film shorts and full-length documentaries.
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Text: Michael Sohn
Eleven years after the launch of Napster, those who want to survive as DJs or producers have to come up with more than just music. An entrepreneurial artist spirit is required here. Adam Port is one of the hot shots of the Berlin club circuit and really has his head screwed on. After hardcore socialisation (punk not techno!) and hip hop, everything is about techno and house these days for the 32-year-old, “whereas my own productions are deeper than the stuff I play as a DJ.” DJ Adam Port can usually be found on the turntables during primetime so has to turn up the volume accordingly. Recently his “Own” EP, produced together with Santé, was released. A lot of DJs put the title track straight into their charts: “That’s the most hit-like thing I’ve ever done. It’s the sign of a good wave coming.” He also generated quite a buzz with his friends from Keinemusik, a collective with “music as the focal point. Most of the admin work is dealt with by &ME and Rampa. We are a group of producers, releasing only our own stuff. The upside is that the impact of a group is much bigger than that of a single individual.” That’s where the strategist in him surfaces. The one that also takes care of the PR. “Communication takes up a large amount of my time. Responding to messages
on Facebook or Twitter. But I enjoy it. Because I know how stupid it feels to get no feedback.” On top of that he blogs on Hypebeast – often about fashion topics. “That’s a result of the overlap from my job as fashion editor. At the same time it’s my entertaining factor. I do a lot of research for it though. In 2009 I concentrated on chinos, this year on loafers. That’s part of my image package. It may look staged on photos, but that’s what I wear at the weekends.” What motivates you? “The happiness you get from success is only fleeting, for example when playing in front of an audience of 800 instead of 200. Berlin is important as a base, but maybe I’ll make the leap and try my luck in London or New York. I still have the freedom to try everything out, maybe fall flat on my face and then get back up again.”
www.myspace.com/ adamport www.hypebeast.com/ blog/adamport www.keinemusik.com
Text: Michael Sohn
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Text: Michael Sohn Everyone’s always talking about the importance of networking. Without a well-tended, tightly meshed network, you won’t get a job, find a flat or be on the guest list for the parties with free drinks. Long before the social media time-killers around the globe cost their national economies millions, Yasmine Orth realised that she “is good at bringing people together and combining people with projects and events.” The qualified PR lady used to run a booking agency but wanted to break out of the nightlife routine. Since 2008 the 31-year-old has been known under the name Creative Connectors. “Creative connecting includes PR in the broadest sense, consulting, guest management and event management.” Best known amongst Berlin creative heads is Yasmine’s Goerlzclub, which is a employment network, job agency and inspiration platform for ladies. Membership is by invitation only and 1300 women have joined the network since 2004. “Career networking just wasn’t part of a lot of my girlfriends’ daily reality. So I dealt with it.” It’s that simple. Currently the Rheinlander is planning to raise the group up to the next level with a series of events: “My Salon Mondaine is an
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opportunity for the Goerlzclub members to come together in real space and time. For example I’ve initiated a symposium as part of the Smart Urban Stage on “the path of creative movers and shakers.” As inspiration and impulse. A salon that should provide empowerment and function as a networking catalyst.” And in her everyday life she also believes that “it’s better to interact with one another, rather than merely act side by side.” Chateau Fou, the communal office she set up, which is centrally located at the Hackescher Markt, has been strategically filled with freelancers working in various creative disciplines so that “everyone profits from the other’s qualities, which therefore makes us attractive in the eyes of the client.”
www.creative-connectors.net www.goerlzclub.net www.chateau-fou.net
Text: Jan Joswig
Udi Cohen is doubly blessed: with a good temper and with good friends. The hyperactivist with the sunniest disposition drifted through the world once the Israeli army had released him from his duties and the barracks. “I was too much of a hippie,” he grins and lists some of the places he ended up: a bar in Manhattan, a summer camp in Ibiza, a gallery/club in Berlin. After ten years, when he came to Berlin for the second time in 2008, he decided
to swap his “club boy” existence, in the techno capital of all places, for a steady girlfriend (which sounds very exotic coming from him) and a steady job (which sounds even more exotic) and to open the “Luigi Zuckermann” sandwich bar. And since they opened, the doors won’t be closing until December 2010, which is when the staff will be allowing themselves their first holiday. His best mate sent the cash injection, his Berlin girlfriend, who works in film casting, rounded up her friends and designed the logo. Behind the counter Udi gives his employees high fives and with a wide sweeping gesture happily says: “Comedy is my life!” At “Luigi Zuckermann” you can have Israeli-American sandwiches made up 24 hours a day. Fast, fresh, with at least one pirouette behind the counter, and with music that “people have a natural connection to,” blues, jazz and hip-hop from the era of James Brown samples. But no electronic music. After all, despite its opening hours Luigi Zuckermann is not an afterhour joint. “We are loud, we have a somewhat extreme humour, but we’re not party people,” emphasises Udi, as he conspiratorially puts his special café-crème on the table and whispers: “After all, this is serious business here. I’m not saying I want Luigi Zuckermann to be like Starbucks, but…” Then he makes three dance steps towards the entrance and calls out: “Hey boys, how about a Prosecco with your lunchtime sandwich?”
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Text: Jan Joswig
Lennie turns landscape architect. With his skater-eye he will lead Berlin into a new blossoming of organic architecture in the public realm. The professional skater from Kreuzberg, Lennie Burmeister, rides for the Nike SB team and Radio Skateboards from Berlin, sporting a Cleptomanicx hat. At just over thirty he has spent two thirds of his life on a board. His relaxed anarchist-slacker attitude is begging to be filmed. Not only did he have a short cameo alongside Birol Ünel in the hiphop video “Problembezirk” by Mach One, but he also played leading roles in highly acclaimed German auteur films like “Bungalow”, “Hab mich lieb” and “Egoshooter” alongside Devid Striesow and Franziska Jüger. As a skateboarder he has a whole different take on the city than the usual flat-footed pedestrian. “No one takes more time 36 – Bright Magazine
to study urban architecture than a skater. All the marble corners, how much sense is imbued in them by a skateboard rider!” But he doesn’t just look at things differently; he also gets involved. The design of the new Skatepark Berlin can be attributed to him, and he also helped out at the new Mellow Park for skaters and BMX riders in Köpenick and he’s planning a granite piazza at
Tempelhof airport. “The idea is a landscaped area with paths and small piazzas that comes across as a public space, but is ideal for skating.” Lennie has checked out the quick-build technique for skate spaces from Sweden’s Pontus Alv: make a wooden framework, fill it with rubble, pour concrete over the top. “In Tempelhof we’re planning a special kind of rubble. We’re taking the old
stones from the Palace of the Republic, they’ve been waiting five or six years for a mission like this.” Yeah, skating on the rubble of history. From someone who used existing spaces, and got shouted at by caretakers, to an urban planner who gets to shake the hand of the borough’s mayor – one small step for Lennie, one great step for the city. But he’s sure to take it all in his stride.
Text: Michael Sohn
After four years on air, the headquarters of MotorFM still have a chaos-loving student-digs character about them that one often experiences in start-ups. But that doesn’t mean they are into bohemian laissez-faire. Markus Kühn & Co. are certainly not working below capacity: far from it, they simply prefer to get their work done instead of tidying up. Together with Mona Rübsamen (ex-head of production at MTV) the 37-year-old is managing director of the company m2m. They are also the majority shareholders of the radio station. “With m2m medien.marken.musik – its full title – we develop innovative concepts to connect these three areas. That’s how we hit on the idea of radio as a converging medium.” More than two dozen people are employed at the radio station, which broadcasts in Berlin, Stuttgart and soon also Bremen. Like a well-stocked record store MotorFM always plays the latest in alternative, indie, rock and electro. “We started out with a clear focus on music, but expanded our position. We now offer a platform for the creative minds of the city and want to have a networking effect.”
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The whole thing is financed via advertising – ad sales, special forms of advertising but also cooperational work. “Content-wise we had a great cooperative project with Electronic Beats, which German Telekom is behind.” The business is up and running: “We’ve been chalking up profits from day one,” and, accordingly, the erstwhile marketing manager of Universal has an optimistic take on the future: “There was a time when radio was accused of being a mere accompanying medium. But in a world of multitasking that’s actually to our advantage. And we keep people informed about what’s going on in the city. The regional aspect is extremely important.” Further aims: “At some point we’d like to broadcast in every big city in Germany. When they are available we apply for interesting UKW frequencies, but apart from that we focus on the web.” One more puff on a cigarette and Kühn is once again engrossed in his work.
A hipster with no nail varnish is as good as naked. So the moral of the story is never to show your middle finger without painting your nails first! Topping that would be nail varnish containing stars or silver confetti! Feride Uslu and Jan Mihm founded their cosmetics company Uslu Airlines in 2003, with the aim of making nail varnish the must-have accessory for people like fixed-gear cyclists and those who pre-order their iPads. Feride Uslu loved Hayze Fantasy when she was young, and to this day, now and again Jan Mihm still enjoys dressing like the Nu-Rave predecessor of the eighties. For really committed fans, Uslu Airlines has an exclusive offer for their Airflow Make-up Set “air(o)pak”, with which you can airbrush your skin gently and smoothly. Non-cosmetic accessories like sunglasses, scarves and belts round off
the selection. But the social mission of Uslu Airlines lies elsewhere: nail polish is now as much a part of a man’s toiletries as aftershave used to be. For this small crusade they have won over like-minded souls: DJs like Fetisch, Busy P from Ed Banger, the Rollerboys, Headman and currently Hugo Capablanca each sponsor one of the Uslu varnishes. Groupie-besieged hetero men with brightly-coloured fingertips. That doesn’t just seem a logical step for the Parisian hipster temple Colette or the premium street label WoodWood, which have both cooperated with Uslu Airlines, but also the Paderborn-based boutique owner who presents the nail varnishes
next to his bootcut jeans. Eureka, the creeping revolution! And it’s making the till ring too; it would be hard to improve on the turnover of such a small sales area unless you’re selling diamonds! They would love to see the Miami rapper Rick Ross wearing their polish – to match his finger tattoos. Surely Rick Ross would love to climb out of his Maybach car sporting the combination of golden nail varnish, developed together with fashion-comedian Bernhard Willhelm, and their gold-plated belt in the style of an aeroplane seatbelt.
Feride Uslu & Jan Mihm
Text: Jan Joswig
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Selling odorous magazines and explaining to Moscow students how it’s done is one of Alexis Zavialoff’s favourite hobbies. Alexis, who is Swiss, set up a distribution company for independent publications from his parent’s house under the name Motto Distribution in 2007, which was a unique concept at that time. In December 2008 he went on to open a book and magazine store called Motto, this time in Berlin. The shop too, whose lettering is consciously reminiscent of blissful corner shop days, fills a gap. Alexis Zavialoff loves the art niches of the magazine and book market: publications that are small, independent, obscure, contrary to all common sense and elaborately designed. Like the intensively-smelling “Monokultur” fanzine with scent samples from the olfactory researcher Sissel Tolaas. “The smell remains on the fingers for quite a while,” says Alexis Zavialoff happily. “Things like that are fun.” As distributor and salesman, he was missing out on this side of the job so he decided to organise events in the woodpanelled motto shop, which are somewhere between a literary salon, a party in a shared flat and a reading get-together with weird music and homemade waffles, he also lectures at universities, has staged a performance at the Künstlerhaus Stuttgart and promotes the cause of the independent press all over the world. “When the Goethe Institute invited us to Seoul I went there with 50 kilos worth of books from my selection and came back with 50 kilos of Korean books!” Liberating magazines from their sell-by-date and treating them like books, offering an art fanzine, published at irregular intervals like Starship, alongside the Sneakerfreaker magazine and Vogue Paris and stocking the shop with magazine back issues rather than with Wallpaper City Guides and Moleskine notebooks is the spirit of Motto. A spirit that is hugely popular in the metropolis on the Spree. “In comparison with the rest of the world,” Alexis Zavialoff can assert after one year of Motto, “Berlin is a wonderful city for books!”
Text: Jan Joswig
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News from the East
Text: Andreas Richter
Streetwear, skateboarding, urban lifestyle – all terms of western influence and formulations of western lifestyle that have been exported throughout the world in the most various forms for decades. Since the fall of the Iron Curtain the West can now inevitably also be found in the East. But why do we know so little about the so-called subculture in the East? It’s a shame because there is certainly plenty going on east of the Oder.
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Whether you go to a party in Berlin or in Prague – the differences are at most superficial. Thanks to the lifting of trading restrictions, and above all the possibilities opening up through the internet, due to universal availability and the immediacy of information passed on through the blogosphere, the cultural rapprochement between the erstwhile Eastern block countries with those of the West has become a given. How, though, does the search for a specifically regionally rooted identity harmonise with the cultural hegemony of the West? What enthusiasm and insight do young people, for whom socialism and communism are only terms out of a history book, have nowadays? “Poland is coming,” says Robert Serek about the recent developments in his home country, and after all, he should know. He is editor-in-chief of the Polish edition of Vice magazine in Warsaw, years ago he opened the first Comme des Garçons guerrilla store in Eastern Europe and now runs four stores,
which stock a selection of clothes ranging from Nike and Cheap Monday to Raf Simons and Rick Owens. The sensitivity for trends from the West is definitely there, he says. Surfing at Hypebeast. com or Highsnobiety.com has also become a daily ritual for kids in Poland. But active consumerism is, despite great interest, simply not possible for financial reasons. “Compared to France, Germany or Italy, Poland is cheaper,” says Serek. “But a WoodWood tee for 50 Euros is an absolute luxury item. But there are also Polish brands like PLNY, Misbhv and Fokuz Inc. that are cheaper and very popular for that reason. But a beer for two Euros is even more popular.” It’s true, in Poland at the moment one gets the impression that the streetwear and skate scene is particularly influenced by regional brands. And that’s exactly why Misbhv was created, say the two founders, Natalia Maczek and Katarina Kotnowsky: “We wanted to support the Polish scene and we wanted to show that streetwear doesn’t have to be male dominated.” For the two of them it’s particularly the reality of a lively streetwear scene that is the driving force behind their work, a scene that, due to the shortage of Western labels, encourages a DIY attitude. Natalia: “I think a lot of people’s styles are influenced by the internet. But websites are nothing compared to real street culture. We don’t have brands like Mishka, MOB or Supreme; if you’re lucky you can occasionally get your hands on a Stüssy garment, but that’s about it. There are plenty of young talented people who design their own clothes, but regrettably we don’t have this kind of ‘American dream’ mentality. The confidence isn’t as strong as it is in Western countries. That’s why so many interesting things remain confined to small circles.” Her business partner Katarina adds: “But it’s still an important moment. There’s so much potential here: talented photographers, fashion students, designers. In the near future there will be significant developments on the fashion, art and youth culture front.”
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Zdenek Jonas is accustomed to both the theoretical endless possibilities of the present and the restrictive conditions of real existing socialism in the for-
Photo: Adam Tarasiuk
mer Czechoslovakia. He is now owner of Industrial Skateboards and makes skate decks in Prague. Far from nostalgic glorification he really rates the developments in the local skate scene during the last 20 years: “Because of the political and economic restrictions it was basically impossible to get products from the USA or Western Europe. Modern and progressive developments didn’t come to us at all, or came much later. There was only a black market for equipment, which you had to pay through the nose for. It was a hard time for skaters; the scene existed on the edge of society. On the other hand it meant a feeling of absolute and unconditional solidarity, which was never the case again after the Wall came down.” In fact it seems to be mainly psychological differences that characterise the East. The consumerorientated catching up phase was largely exhausted after a few years. An 42 – Bright Magazine
infrastructure was set up and the existing market prospered over the shop counter rather than under it; fashion, labels and scene consciousness developed – but largely with an eye on the West. “In the nineties everyone was totally crazy for anything that came from the West,” reminisces Rositsa Karatoteva. “If someone got their hands on a good film, everyone wanted to watch it. Everyone would get together, inspiring one another. Whether it was skateboarding, graffiti or music, everything was taken on enthusiastically. Nowadays people are so busy with themselves, that new things don’t interest them. There’s simply too much information, people tire of it and become lethargic. The fetish of the consumer object and the hectic lifestyle don’t leave much room for real happiness. After the global financial crisis no doubt some things will change and one will hopefully learn to value the smaller things again.” And that’s exactly what characterises the reality in cities like Warsaw, Prague or Sofia – the way of dealing with ever-present problems, accompanied with the post-partum pains of a historic change of value systems. This as yet unfinished search for identity is doubtless strewn with stumbling blocks,
Foto: Misbhv by kamilzacharski.blogspot.com
This is an opinion that Rositsa Karatoteva shares. She is the owner of a skate shop and manager of Energy Trade Ltd. in Bulgaria, an exclusive distribution company for labels including Burton, Gravis, Analog and Alien Workshop. “Bulgaria also has some own brands,” she says. “For example Virus Skateboards, Gone and Exit. I wouldn’t go so far as to say that they are known beyond the borders of Bulgaria, but they are nevertheless very cool. We have a lot of designers here with a lot of talent but it’s very difficult for them to work on an international level, because they simply can’t afford the necessary investments or are dependent on sponsoring. People here have to stand on their own two feet, and for many that’s just too risky.”
but at the same time, opens up – see Misbhv or Industrial Skateboards – new vistas of possibility and the chance for self-realisation. Thanks a lot Misbhv!
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My Bright Uniform Here we go again: long-standing partners and friends of Bright from Hamburg to Milano expose their innermost for all to see, donning the trade show chic of their choice, their very own personal Bright Uniform. Or lack of it, as the case may be …
“Sell fast, die young!” Swedish Skateboard Distribution Stockholm Henrik Bergqvist Brands: Sweet Skateboards, Bellows Skateboards Uniform: Beanie: Dads Old Beanie, Sunglasses: Sweet Sweetfarers, Shirt: Sweet Dillinger, Pants: Vintage Levi’s, Shoes: Converse
“I know where I’m going and I know the truth, and I don’t have to be what you want me to be. I’m free to be what I want! *staywhatyouare*” Trashmark Merchandising Dortmund Nicole Menke Brands: Thirtysix, Trashmark meets... Uniform: Cap: Trashmark, T-shirt: American Apparel, Vest: no name, Pants: Cheap Monday, Flower: Elmira
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“Think global, skate local!” Podium Europe, 101 Agency London, Berlin Mathieu Tourneur Brands: Matix Clothing, DVS Shoes, Lakai Limited Footwear Uniform: (foreground) Shorts: Matix, T-shirt: Matix, Jeans: Matix Capital Collection, Socks: DVS, Shoes: DVS, Rucksack: Matix, Shoes: Lakai (Computer) T-shirt: Matix, Headphones: Matix x Diamond Domepiece (background) Scarf: Bright X, Jeans: Matix Capital Collection, Shirt: Matix, Cardigan: Matix Vintage, Chest hair: Model’s own Photo: Adam Sello
www.anzeigeberlin.de www.matixclothing.com www.dvsshoes.com www.lakai.com
“The bitter taste of poor quality lingers much longer than the sweet taste of a low price!” Burning Business Distribution / 667 Düsseldorf Tim Brückmann Brands: 667, Ontour, Merc, 2SickBastards, Hemp Hoodlamb, Goldmarie Uniform: Long-sleeve: 667, Jacket: 667, Belt: Goldmarie, Pants: 667, Shoes: Nike
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“One step behind!” Iuter Milan, Italy Andrea Torella & Alberto Leoni Brands: Iuter Uniform: Andrea (left): T-shirt: Iuter Notacrime, Pants: Iuter, Shoes: Reebok Classic, Haircut: Wolverine Alberto (right): T-shirt: Iuter, Belt: Iuter, Pants: Iuter, Shoes: Sebago
“Make it count” Element Europe Soorts-Hossegor, France Phil Lalement Brands: Element Uniform: Cap: Element, Hoodie: Element, Jeans: Element, Accessories: Bike Triumph TR5 1955 Photo: Axel Pauporte
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“Always look on the Bright side of life!” KPP Agency Frankfurt Massimo Andrea Binatti Brands: DVS, REELL, Matix, Fenchurch Uniform: Sweatshirt: Fenchurch, Pants: REELL, Shoes: DVS HUF Silver
“Don‘t follow the crowd, stay true to yourself!” NYe Textilhandel Berlin Norman Paulisch Brands: Humör, Rütme, Kulör Uniform: T-shirt: Humör, Pants: Humör, Socks: American Apparel, Shoes: Converse
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“We only have to want to.” Who Are You Mülheim on the Ruhr Miriam ”Mimmie“ Annuß Brands: Mazine Uniform: T-shirt: H&M, Jacket: Mazine, Pants: Mazine, Shoes: Pointer
“Join the crowd, copy the crowd, beat the crowd!” Cleptomanicx Hamburg Cäptn Clepto Brands: Cleptomanicx Uniform: Borrowed and never returned captain’s hat, T-shirt Royaal Residenz, naked bottom half
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CONNECT WITH NICK’S ND-1 MID 49/–nd1 Bright Magazine dcskateboarding.tv
SoTo, NoTo Text: Reinhold Köhler Photos: Robert Wunsch
Berlin as it should be, or why the Torstraße is currently the city’s only hotspot Berlin. City of history, culture, sciences and the unemployed. Party tourists from all over the world flock like pilgrims to the city, which flaunts its mystic permanent state of incompletion combined with a dash of real-life anarchy like a stereotypical icon, oblivious to the fact that it is becoming more polished, rigid and static every day. With every gap between buildings that is filled, every complete refurbishment and every politically motivated development plan for the east of the city, Berlin is becoming a little more like Hamburg, Frankfurt or – which long-time residents are particularly suspicious of – Swabia. The changes in the city are especially tangible in the historic Mitte of Berlin, in the square between Alexanderplatz, Friedrichstraße, Torstraße and the Hackescher Markt. Enough has been done here over the past ten years to turn a developing country into one of the G8 states. Whereas it was still derelict brick houses with bullet holes from the Second World War, overgrown stretches of wasteland and soot-blackened prefabricated concrete apartment blocks setting the scene a few years ago, nowadays the area is amongst the most popular residential, office and shopping districts in Berlin and beyond. Despite purchase prices per square metre of 5000 Euros and rental prices of up to 150 Euros. In the early 1990s, however, especially between Torstraße and the Hackescher Markt, young designers could move in and rent an atelier in un-renovated old building for very little money. If it all went to plan, they could then go on to open their own store around the corner, selling their selfmade clothing to friends, friends of friends and every now and again also to a lost American tourist all the way from hicksville. The result: over time Berlin-Mitte achieved, even abroad, a stronger reputation as a hip, new fashion location with an underdog appeal and a particular penchant for party hedonism. Meanwhile the quarter is largely inhabited by so-called “opinion leader” prototypes and is regarded as the currently most important experimental field of the advertising industry. The young, urban, open-minded, educated, trend and brand-conscious urban dweller feels at home here. With them also came the big brands, opening their flagship stores everywhere – temples bursting at the seams with brand identities where labels, which were previously only spotted in department stores, were suddenly presenting themselves as part of an urban diaspora. With the increasing demand 50 – Bright Magazine
for retail space, however, the rent prices in the region shot up and drove exactly the people away who had once kissed the dreary neighbourhood awake. And now a strange sort of brand monotony is shaping the street’s image. Everything is new, everything is clean chic, made of glass, with washed concrete and cold light as far as the eye can see. There is a street here, however, which has so far stubbornly resisted further development in any way shape or form. A street which has always looked like it wouldn’t be out of place in a small East German town just after reunification: long-term lease retailers (“Fashion for Him and Her”), telecafés, the odd kebab takeaway and a whole row of traders who have specialised in the sector of “buying and selling”: and the name of this street is Torstraße. It stretches from the Friedrichstraße in the west all the way to Prenzlauer Allee in the east. Around the year 1800 it acted as the buffer between the urbanised area of Berlin and the countryside. Its name comes from the German word “Tor” meaning gate, because it was located just outside the city’s gates. The special thing about the street is that it still hasn’t quite managed to cast off its fringe character and the offshoots of Prenzlauer Berg in the north have developed into the capital’s most popular residential area, whereas the Torstraße has always stayed the same and seems like a dried-out riverbed in the middle of a tropical forest. You would only drive along here if you wanted to get to Tegel Airport or just rush across it or turn into it by mistake. It was never a place anyone wanted to spend much time. Currently though there is a tremendous amount going on in the former zone of dust and grit. More and more gastronomy highlights such as “Dudu”, “Bandol” and “Toca Rouge” have settled in the western part of the street, while the eastern part is primarily characterised by small fashion stores. This has resulted in an extremely bizarre streetscape, which not only shows the development of the Torstraße, but is also a reflection of Berlin’s self-image. In the north-eastern part of the Torstraße, at house number 39, for example, is “Jünemanns Pantoffeleck”. The familyowned business has already been in existence for 100 years, and has been selling their slippers for 30. In the basement shop everything still looks like the GDR never ceased to exist.
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The colour, shape and pattern of Jünemann’s slippers haven’t changed since Erich’s era. The shop is open from 9:00 am until 5:00 pm and credit cards are not considered a legitimate method of payment. By contrast, approx. 100 metres away from Jünemann, Firmament, the exclusive streetwear store of Jörg Haas and André Storvoll took up residence in May 2010. The pair has moved into a futuristic new building between the Torstraße and Linienstraße. Haas and Storvoll are profiting from the increasing popularity of the Torstraße. Associated with an almost disconcertingly large hotel and hostel boom more and more tourists are coming to the area; most of them young, trendconscious and willing to splash the cash. “When we moved to Schröderstraße in 2005 the Torstraße was pretty dead,” says Haas. “Now you can hardly move for all the people.” Unlike Firmament, which has declared a listed modern building its home, several other Torstraße newcomers are also profiting from the credit and property crisis that is rampant here and which has so far prevented many a refurbishment being carried out. The concept store SoTov by Phil Gaedicke, David Fischer and Omer Ben-Michael, which also opened in spring, is, for example located in an empty house in desperate need of renovation, between Rosa-Luxemburg and Rosenthaler-Platz, which was actually supposed to be turned into a hotel. But the investor got into financial difficulties, the hotel remained a mere idea and within weeks SoTo blossomed into a meeting point for young trendy folk. “We always wanted to have our own store, a place to hang-out, an area where we could do what we wanted and how we like it; where no one could tell us what to do,” says Gaedicke. The Torstraße was perfect for this.
While SoTo offers a slim portfolio of exclusive brands like Band of Outsiders, Opening Ceremony, and Penfield while Firmament shines with limited editions from Acronym, Supreme, Original Fake und WTaps, on the other side of the street Stefan Hilbig has been selling worn-out boots from foreign legionnaires, NVA rucksacks and brittle ammunition boxes left behind by the Russian troops for many years now. Hilbig’s “Trash” store, which he has packed full to the rafters with military tokens and army clothing, can be found at Torstraße 69. Every single centimetre of the wall is covered, and as the shop window is also completely decorated “to the max” not much daylight makes its way into the musty rooms. But if you’re thinking that the arrival of modern store concepts in the Torstraße 52 – Bright Magazine
interferes with Trash owner Hilbig’s living nostalgia, then you’re mistaken. Hilbig is rather hoping that he will also profit from the increasing fluctuation and says that it’s “high time that something happened here.” The fact that something is happening here can also be accredited to the adidas Icon Store No.74, which took up residence in 2008 just a few metres away in a rundown, former Skoda garage. From outside, the building still looks like a
crack house in downtown Brooklyn that is about to collapse. Inside, however, are shiny clean surfaces displaying designer pieces by Y-3, Stella McCartney, Jeremy Scott and Kazuki. No.74 is run by the adidas PR agency Häberlein and Maurer, which employed Frank Radermacher, manager of the resplendent second-hand store “Paul’s Boutique”, as store manager. Since 2009 Radermacher has been running a branch of his
boutique right next door selling selected vintage garments and new goods by the Swedish label Cheap Monday. Radermacher doesn’t beat around the bush when it comes to pointing out the benefits of the Torstraße compared to the area around the Hackescher Markt: “This is the only spot in Mitte that still doesn’t have totally messed-up rent prices and isn’t crammed full of pointless flagship stores of snobby brands.” For him the “mix of pet shop, bicycle shop, falafel takeaway, galleries and a few fashion stores is very charming” and “not as ironed out and refurbished to death like the rest of Mitte”.
One of the most important galleries to have positioned itself somewhere between art, fashion, exhibition space and fashion store, is Undplus. The project space, which refers to itself as the Urban Gallery Store, is run by Arun Markus and Fabian Johow and serves not only as a gallery for street artists like Nomad, FLXN and Superblast, but also for painters, designers and photographers like Paul Snowden and Monja Gentschow, and as a temporary store for small, aspiring brands like Urbanears and Violent Elegance. The reason why Markus and Jochow moved here around one year ago is that “there is still the space and the opportunity to realise creatively flexible concepts”. For them a “huge amount happened” last year, especially on the “strip” between Rosa-Luxemburg and Rosenthaler-Platz. According to Markus the area is quickly developing into the “place to be” in Berlin, for art, fashion, design and streetwear. For them the growing influx of tourists to the Torstraße are just as little a problem as it is for Alexander Flach and Andreas Hesse, who set up their streetwear store “Civilist” not far from Rosenthaler Platz at the end of 2009. Like the other shop owners they are also hoping to profit from the growing popularity of the Torstraße, as “the clientele is becoming more international, open-minded and is already well-informed,” says Hesse. But he doesn’t believe in focusing only on well-heeled foreigners. Mitte has a completely mixed population, which is apparently also making itself noticed alongside the flocks of tourists. “Stylistas, skateboarders, fashionistas, filmmakers, queers, hipsters, families, art students, Berliners, club kids, alcoholics – they all come to our store.”
So it all boils down to the mix once again. Here you’ll find the long-established pet shop, Jünemanns Pantoffeln and the undertaker who had decorated his shop window with modern touches like glittery foil, black light and stuffed owls, in between unconventional, modern and partly also highly-priced conecpt stores like Firmament, No.74, SoTo and Civilist. Everyone agrees here that it’s all about good neighbourly relations. They all get on great and like Radermacher, the manager of “Paul‘s Boutique”, they all mention the “very friendly atmosphere” between the retailers and in May even joined forces to organise a “Block Party” with music, drinks and a charitable cake buffet. But they are very critical of an 53 – Bright Magazine
increased influx of flagship stores, like in the adjoining streets, especially as the retailers fear that this could be accompanied by an exorbitant rise in rent prices. Store owners like Jörg Haas from Firmament are mainly dreading the “boredom” that a monochrome mega brand landscape would bring. SoTo maker Philipp Gaedicke simply hopes that “the right people move here,” while Andreas Hesse from Civilist is concerned that the attractiveness of the street will sooner or later be “thwarted”. “The old game of the gentrification carousel,” as Hesse refers to it. At the same time, however, he is aware “that we are also speeding up this development”. For Hesse the stores on the Torstraße even have an “educational responsibility to bring the culture from the unreality of the net on to the street and therefore highlight the cross connections between the brands, the art, the extensive creative output”. But just how long this will work out and whether the current strange, yet charming, mix of old-established, temporary users and new tenants will remain much into the future, is, however, more than doubtful. There may still be lots of old, un-renovated buildings with cheaper space for room to experiment in the Torstraße; however, there are already at least as many development plans in the filing cabinets of diverse investors as there are good ideas in the minds of the “poor, but sexy” creatives who are mainly shaping the city’s image abroad. But of course complaining doesn’t really help those who have settled here. They are making the best out of the situation and are just waiting to see how long everything works out. SoTo maker Gaedicke’s obvious response to the question of what risks are associated with the Torstraße location: “Too much hype”. Since the fall of the Wall this is certainly a factor that has caused more livelihoods to have failed in Berlin than general gentrification.
NO.74 CIVILIST Torstraße 74, 10119 Berlin
Brunnenstraße 13, 10119 Berlin
www.civilistberlin.com Manager: Alexander Flach, Andreas Hesse Brands: aNYthing, Bagjack, DQM, HUF, Nike SB, Norse, PAM, Ransom, Vans Syndicate, Palace Skateboards, O.H.W.O.W., Fucking Awesome, and others
Manager: Häberlein & Maurer Brands: Y-3, Stella, ObyO (Jeremy Scott, Kazuki), SLVR, adidas Originals
Torstraße 59, 10119 Berlin
www.trash-clothing.de Manager: Stefan Hilbig Brands: Army clothing and military accessories like the “BW Aviation Suit (without lining)”, “Tactical Vest” or “Camouflage Face Cream”
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Linienstraße 40, 10178 Berlin
www.am-firmament.com Manager: Jörg Haas, André Storvoll Brands: Acronym, Billionaire Boys Club, Head Porter, Original Fake, Stone Island Shadow, Stüssy Deluxe, Supreme, Uniform Experiment, Visvim, WTaps and others
PAUL’S BOUTIQUE „Chapter Mitte“
Torstraße 39, 10119 Berlin
Torstraße 76, 10119 Berlin
www.paulsboutiqueberlin.de Manager: Reno Jünemann Brands: Different styles of slipper incl. camel hair (“the classic”), Plüsch, Venere, Niedertreter, Kragenschuhe and the designer “BVG”
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Manager: Frank Radermacher Brands: Cheap Monday, selected Vintage Items
SOTO UNDPLUS Torstraße 72, 10119 Berlin
Torstraße 66, 10119 Berlin
www.undplus.com Manager: Philipp Gaedicke, David Fischer, Omer Ben-Michael Brands: Band of Outsiders, Baxter of California, Bedwin & The Heartbreakers, Converse, Deluxe, Militant Pacifist, Nike, O.H.W.O.W., Opening Ceremony, Pendleton, Penfield, Pointer, Rizzoli, Vans, and others
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Manager: Arun Markus, Fabian Johow Artists: Alex Flach, FLXN, Lukas Feireiss, Marok, Monja Gentschow, Nomad, Paul Snowden, Superblast u.a. Brands: Gestalten Verlag, Gomma, Lodown, Urbanears, Wasted German Youth, Willick and others
photo: alexander basile
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Yana: Crown – Starstyling, Headphones – Urbanears, Top – Nike, Jumpsuit – Burton, Belt – Starstyling, Shoes – Acne
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Bright time, Bright place Photography: Lars Borges Styling: Nora Erdle Set design: Marius Farwig Production: Romy Uebel Hair / Make-up: Franziska Gottschlich Production assistance: Nada Carls, Thomas Schottenloher Photo assistance: Anne Retsch, Jakob Reinhardt Models: Natasa / Seeds Yana, Amar und Anad / DeeBeePhunky Darvid / Izaio Nico / M4 Many thx to Delight Rental Services!
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Yana: Scarf – Stüssy, T-Shirt – 667, Pants – Element Eden
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Nico: Cap – Forvert, Jacket – Stüssy, T-Shirt – REELL, Shorts – Stüssy
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Amar: Cap – DC, Sweater – Mazine, Pants – Wemoto, Shoes – Vans, Bracelet – Starstyling, Wheelie – Burton Darvid: Jacket – Stüssy, T-Shirt – Stüssy, Pants – Airbag Craftworks, Shoes – Converse Natasa: Jumper – WeSC, Dress – Obey, Pants – Nike, Accessories – Starstyling
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Anand: Jacket – Iriedaily, Shirt – Cleptomanicx, Chino – Iriedaily, Shoes – Supra Amar: Jacket – Wemoto, T-Shirt – DC, Cardigan – Wemoto, Chino – Iriedaily, Shoes – Vans
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Natasa: Vest – Nikita, T-Shirt – Airbag Craftworks, Leggings – Lifetime Collective, Shoes – Nike
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Anand: T-shirt – Mazine, Shirt – Wemoto, Pants – Humör, Shoes – Jim Rickey Yana: Hoodie – Nikita, Jeans – Nikita, Scarf – Rütme Natasa: Cardigan – Rütme, Dress – 667, Necklace – PlocPloc, Leggings – Nikita, Sandals – Acne Nico: Cape – Cleptomanicx, T-shirt – Wemoto, Pants – Iriedaily, Shoes – Makia Darvid (next page): Cardigan – Cleptomanicx, T-shirt – Airbag Craftworks, Cardigan – Humör, Pants – Wemoto, Shoes – DVS, Rucksack – Burton
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Anand: Visor – Starstyling, Jacket – DC, Jacket (checked) – Iriedaily, T-Shirt – Makia, Jeans – Vans, Shoes – Lakai
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Nico: Cap – Obey, Shirt – Obey
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Forwards? Always! Backwards? Only sometimes …
The new home of Bright is Berlin, but Frankfurt remains unforgotten! Ten events in the city on the Main – exhibitors from the early days share their memories with us. Call them pioneers, old timers, veterans – for us they will always be members of the Bright brigade!
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Pitt Feil Founder of Cleptomanicx
The first time was exciting and incredibly funny. Working in fixed rooms was unusual, but for us exhibitors it was really enjoyable. It was so trashily charming getting up to mischief in a derelict police station and we welcomed the fact that the rooms didn’t lend themselves to any over the top business airs and graces. The whole atmosphere fit in well with our image of skateboard brands, the labels here were and still are all on one level. Before that we tried the Ispo, Interjeans and Bread&Butter, but somehow it was always daunting and too intentionally business-minded. Since the first Bright we have never exhibited at a different trade fair in Germany. The relocation to Berlin makes thing a lot easier, but from the charming side, I imagine that a sort of off-city travelling show would also be very interesting.
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Jan Arend Friendly Products (Cleptomanicx, Wemoto, Stüssy, Manhattan Portage, Lousy Livin’)
Well, let’s just say, the business concept wasn’t really at the foreground. Back then we gave in to the cultural offer of the city and visited different basement clubs where we spent many an hour. It was virtually a case of coming out of a billowing cloud of smoke from the club and heading straight to the trade fair, to a genuine get-together in a great atmosphere – it was all very casual and everyone was on first name terms. Back then I was already a freelance sales rep and was there with Ctrl. One piece of chipboard and two trestles – that was our stand. Over the years I have been able to meet some great people, acquire many new customers, discover new products and gain an overview of the market. It’s not just about skateboarding, but also sneakers and streetwear, all under one roof. It’s great! It’s fantastic to see that the Bright has taken such a step forward and I’m looking forward to Berlin.
Rolf Preußer Sales Manager Onitsuka Tiger / Asics SportStyle
At the first Bright everything went haywire. Back then Thomas Martini was already working for us and we were convinced by the idea, even without having a preview. I didn’t have a clue what awaited me and was full of anticipation. I went there with only about 20 pairs of shoes and the most frequently asked question was: so what are you doing here exactly? Asics is not a skate product – and doesn’t want to be one, whereby the setting does, however, suit us very well. I just wanted to be there to see what happened. It was a little bit like the first Love Parade: one person leading the way on the microphone and the rest of the dimwits following behind them. I have a good feeling about the move to Berlin. It seems like Bright isn’t veering off course and is continuing to stay faithful and down-to-earth, close to its roots – personally, that’s more my kind of thing. It’s better to appear small and be big, than vice-versa – the boys are doing a really good job! And we’re looking forward to being a part of it once again, just like the first time around.
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Mirko Wagner Sales Manager adidas Originals, Market Central
I was convinced by the idea of Bright right from the very start, but it took a lot of work to persuade everyone in Herzogenaurach. There was simply no planned budget for this type of event. And then when the green light finally came I had 5000 Euros at my disposal for the whole thing. No concept, but a rough idea and a lot of enthusiasm. I come from the skateboard scene, I used to have my own stores and when we were setting everything up I really felt like I’d been transported back to the Eighties. The handmade feeling was great. I got some furniture from Martin from Streetwear Today and rounded up all sorts of stuff from small Frankfurt shops. The result was top and today I’m really pleased that my instinct served me well. It meant that adidas was one of the few global suppliers to have been there right from the outset. Marco and Thomas were definitely in the right place at the right time and recognised the market needs. There are always those few original characters on the streetwear scene who pop up from time to time and they can be very proud that they were part of it all back then as a door opener. My motto in life has always been: he who dares, wins. That’s why I’m also welcoming the move to Berlin. If you only ever hold on to what you already have, even in retail, then sooner or later you’ll fade away into mediocrity. Coming to Bright is always like coming home. I hope that the next event will be a huge success!
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Ben Klaassen Managing Director of REELL Denim
Over the years Bread&Butter became too expensive and the market needed a smaller trade fair for independent brands, not only for the big companies. Bright organiser Marco Aslim is also our representative; we thought his idea was convincing and hoped that something good would develop. But despite that it still took us six seasons to make our presence at Bright pay off in financial terms. The rental prices and the setting were right from the very start, but the big buyers still weren’t coming. The exhibitor meals and parties were really informal and really well organised. In a pleasant, relaxed atmosphere with people from the scene and the industry you could discuss developments, difficulties and opportunities, I think that’s extremely important. Our investments, such as in a bigger stand for example, definitely paid off: at Bright we acquired, amongst others, our importer for Greece and many customers from Austria. I was a bit sceptical about the move at first, but quite a few customers simply weren’t coming to Frankfurt anymore and now everything is concentrated on Berlin – I can’t wait!
Julia Frömel PR & Media Manager Vans, Reef & Pro-Tec Europe, Middle East, Africa
Stefan Golz, Gregor Garkisch, Patrick Lotz Wemoto
It was a total coincidence, as we actually started out at the same time as Bright. Back then our collection only consisted of T-shirts and we had no money at all. For small brands there were the cells on the upper floor – we plastered the walls of our tiled room, which was just five square metres, with stickers to soften the cold atmosphere. People thought that was great and really felt at home. We weren’t expecting anything whatsoever and suddenly we were on the map. Through the first Bright our radius extended, our customer base more than doubled – from three to seven. As far as Berlin is concerned we are very positive that it will all work out. It’s a good decision. We won’t miss the Biertonne, as we always had our own beer at our stand anyway – and that won’t change in Berlin. In Frankfurt we were always workaholics and we were always the good boys who made sure we went home afterwards. There’s every possibility that all that could change in the capital.
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I didn’t have a clue what would await me at the first Bright. I had ordered some plaster pedestals on the internet, which I nailed to the wall and displayed a total of ten shoes on them. In the middle of the space was a Coarsetoy figure, sourced by our representative at the time, Marcus – and that filled the room. I always dread trade fairs, but this one was a lot of fun: good brands, nice people, a lot of creativity and not much showing off. We all loved Bright right from the very first day! At the second show we then moved into the bigger room on the ground floor. My colleague Oli and our representative Marc Schwarz were so disgusted by the needles and the faeces on the carpeted floor that they simply painted both the wall and the carpet. And for the next two or three trade fairs we wondered why we needed so much light in the room. The idea of making waffles, in the style of the Vans waffle sole, was born here – which was done with a lot of dedication even back then! I remember many funny brainstorming, set-up and dismantling sessions with our stand builder Roland, who is a real all-round talent. And all of the wild Bright parties with my colleague Steffi. We even had to nip into an unoccupied room for a short nap once because we had been out partying the night before. I look back fondly on Bright 2007, because it was also the end of our Grill&Chill tour. Our whole skate team arrived after a two-week camping tour and we threw a gigantic closing party. The dinner invitations from Marco and Thomas were also a lot of fun! I hope that the spirit of Bright will live on in Berlin and I’m looking forward to the first show in July.
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Ralf Schäfer CEO Made in Corporation
Five or six years ago there were several attempts to create a new trade fair platform. When Marco and Thomas approached us with the idea, I was immediately convinced. The location was super and I share their opinion regarding the significance of Bright for skateboarding, street life and for the market in general. The basic idea was to work at a trade fair again and a lot of customers did actually place orders right from the word go! Everything was much more compressed; you really did know almost everyone and if you didn’t know them, then you certainly did afterwards. Everyone got stuck in – it was a really great atmosphere. Back then I only exhibited with Ezekiel and did the absolute low-budget thing. I turned up with a clothes rack on wheels and the first thing that I saw was Marco and Thomas covered in sweat, with bare chests. I remember that at the first event there was even a lift that worked. But then someone got stuck in it and it had to be forced open. I think the new development is a good thing, even if the distance to Berlin means it’s a little bit further for us to travel.
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Patrick „Bärty“ Bruns Family Agency & Distribution GmbH (Globe, Macbeth, Mr. Lacy)
When Philip Schmidt, who worked at Podium back then, rang me up and told me about this new trade fair to do with skateboarding, I was there like a shot. I already had plenty of trade fairs under my belt and going to Bright was fantastic from the start. My personal memories include the person getting stuck in the lift and the evenings in the Biertonne with Ali, the Turkish heavy-metal fan, who by the way, you absolutely have to bring to Berlin! And particularly painful, but also incredibly funny was the time I was trying to be creative and needed to cut a metal wire. I briefly turned around and of course ended up catching my eye on it. My cornea was scratched and I had to spend the whole time walking around the fair wearing a Captain Hook-style eye patch. I have the photographic evidence hanging above my desk – top-class! The events just got better and better, and I don’t just mean from a marketing perspective. The exhibitions like “Mark McKee” and “Made for Skate” rounded that off perfectly. And a message to the malicious tongues who claim that Bright has moved away from skateboarding: sorry, but why would someone build a crazy rollercoaster in the inner courtyard, if that were the case? They’d have to really be into skateboarding, otherwise Marco and Thomas could have used the space to set up more food stands. I am a fan of Bright and the boys and it goes without saying that we’ll be coming to Berlin!
Holger Carl Action Sports Manager Nike
From a Nike perspective Bright was and still is a very strong guerrilla event. Meanwhile most of our managers have also been to the police headquarters and are impressed at how charming everything is. At the first event I was still the German sales manager for Fenchurch. The main thing I remember is the heat. I lugged around cloakroom rails, the toilets were in a really disgusting state, there weren’t any fire doors and you weren’t allowed to smoke. At the beginning there were a lot of younger visitors – and one or two samples just happened to go missing. And then over the years everything became more professional. I usually stayed away from the parties, but the absences and people going off the rails on the second and third days were a part of it even then. I always fastidiously kept an eye on the clock, which is why Marco christened me the German Alsatian. All in all, I have lots of great memories!
Bright Room 222|5 Backyard BBQ July 8, 6 -10 pm Gabriel-Max-Strasse 16, Berlin www.Ucon-Acrobatics.com
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Considering he’s only just 20 years old, Lem “Lemmy” Villemin, who was born in Bangkok, has already done his fair share of travelling around the pro-skateboard world. After growing up in Stuttgart, he can now be found jetting through Europe and has skated everywhere, from L.A. and San Francisco to San Diego, New York, Portland and Tampa. Invitations to sessions with Steve Berra and Eric Koston at their legendary private “Berrics” hall in L.A., or to New York from Mark “The Gonz” Gonzales, are no longer few and far between. This year the multiple winner of the C.O.S. Cup competed with the adidas team in the “Skate & Create” contest at the Transworld warehouse against Fallen, Lakai and last event’s winning team from Etnies. The creative results of the sessions on the finest, self-produced film and photo material will be released in August, and in advance of this we had a little chat with Lemmy about his skateboarding jetset existence.
Around the globe on wheels Hey Lem. How are you and where are you right now? Hello, I‘m doing good. Right now I‘m skating with the adidas Canadian team on tour in Berlin. So what you have you been up to during the past few weeks? I was on „Der Bratwurst Tour Ever“ with the Girl & Chocolate team. Three stops: Stuttgart, Nuremberg and Berlin. Were those guys feeling it? Everyone was super nice and motivated! We also partied a lot. We had a great time everywhere we went. Was it fun skating the demos? For sure, it was super fun. They‘re on point!
What was “Skate & Create” with the adidas team like? We spent ten days skating in a warehouse near the office of Transworld magazine in San Diego. It was really crazy and cool, but difficult. Ten days of skating in a warehouse where it’s dark the entire time. You can lose your mind pretty fast. But it was fun! There was even an earthquake, which was scary! What was the highlight? It‘s awesome to see everyone, not only my team mates, but also all the guys behind the scenes! What was the concept? Top secret. I can‘t tell you. I think it will be published in August. Are you happy with what you guys got done at “Skate & Create”? Yeah, I think it will be good. Gonz invited you to New York. Are you going to accept the invitation? New York City with Gonz sounds fun! But not before I‘m 21....
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When will that be? 10th November, 2010. What‘s your favourite shoe at adidas? The adidas Campus Vulc Hi. I like vulcanised shoes a lot. Especially simple shoes that don‘t have any blingbling. What‘s the best thing about riding for adidas? My best friend is my boss. Peace Jasch! How do you get along with your team mates at adidas? I get along with everyone really well. We‘ve all known each other for a while now. Sometimes I even miss them, no homo! What are your plans for this year? To enjoy life and have fun, and skate a lot too of course! Thanks for taking a quick break from skating for us Lem. What spot are you at right now? You‘re welcome. We‘re skating the “Fountain Gap” in Berlin! I have to go now and land a trick on that thing because it looks like a lot of fun!
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Wemoto x Stefan Golz “Baby“ in store: September 2010
Toy Machine x Ed Templeton “Sectacular-Series“ in store: now
Zoo York x Morning Breath “Hells Kitchen“ in store: now
Radio x Jörg Schaper “SO36 Soliboard“ in store: now
Consolidated x JP Flexner “Aleman Peacock“ in store: now
Stereo x Bigfoot “Fairfax“ in store: now
Stereo x Shepard Fairey “Obey Series“ in store: now
Robotron x Martin Dockenfuss “Block Logo“ in store: now
Roger x Michael Sieben “Pink Freud“ in store: now
Powell-Peralta x Vernon Courtlandt Johnson “Steadham Spade“ in store: now
MOB x Danny Sommerfeld “Babel“ in store: August 2010
Shut x Eli Morgan Gesner “Big T“ in store: July 2010
Element x Todd Francis “Treevolt Bam“ in store: September 2010
Iriedaily x Christian Spilliger “Ironboard“ in store: now
Carhartt x Stefan Marx “End Of Days“ in store: August 2010
Foundation x Anthony Yankovic “Hazey Daze“ in store: now
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GSM EUROPE: +33 5 58 700 700
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The Tony Hawk & Friends Show 8 July 2010, Max Schmeling-Halle, Berlin
The grandmaster is gracing us with his presence! At the same time as Bright is in town, Quiksilver is also bringing Tony Hawk, doubtlessly the most famous Vert Skater on earth, to Berlin. Hawk has been thrilling the skate world since 1982, and the end is still not in sight: quite the contrary in fact. After touring America for years, he is now bringing his superlative skate show to shake up Europe. After a sensational show in Paris last November Hawk will be appearing at the Max Schmeling Halle on 8 July, before moving on to Brighton and Barcelona. The ramps are typical American super size at 21 metres wide and 7.40 metres high, and theyâ€™re not skimping on the musical line-up either with a topclass, top-secret headliner. As well as Hawk, Andy MacDonald, Sandro Dias, Jean Postec, Kevin Staab, Jesse Fritsch, Sergie Ventura and Lyn-Z Adams Hawkins will also be showing off their skills. Sounds like the ideal night out!
Quiksilver presents: The Tony Hawk & Friends Show + Very Special Guest 8 July 2010 at the Max-Schmeling-Halle in Berlin supported by: Bright Tradeshow, Skateboard MSM, unclesally*s, iMusic1 TV, Radio Fritz RBB
Line-up: Doors: Show:
6:00 pm 7:00 pm
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83 â€“ Bright Magazine Mens and Womens apparel & footwear : Distributed by ICC Distribution : Phone 0032 (0)93244616 616 : www.iccdistribution.eu www.iccdistribution.eu : www.supremebeing.com ww www.supremebeing.com ww
Element 2x Sequioa
Asics Aaron CV
Element Bowery Mid
DC Relax Mid
Etnies Plus Mens Quovis Plus
DVS Torey Pudwill
Nike Zoom Paul Rodriguez 2.5
Converse Chuck Taylor Cup Sole Ox
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85 – Bright Magazine Dekline Blye
Converse Star Player EV
Osiris Rhyme Remix
Emerica HSU Turquoise
Osiris Nyc83 Vulc
éS Taido Mid, Mad Decent Kollabo
Feiyue Delta Mid
Nike Dunk Mid Pro SB
Photos: Michael Breyer & Robert Eikelpoth
Selection: Pascal Prehn
Vans Hadley Lo
Keds Girls Seasonal Solid Oxford
Lakai Select Caroll Select
adidas Tim O´Connor Campus Vulc Mid
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emerica Mens Trenton
Sperry Topsider Chukka Bahamas
Sperry Topsider Classic Hi
Vans Girls Chukka low
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1st row: Volcom Bird V.CO-logical Tee / in store: August 2010 Altru Les Mods contre / in store: now, Globe Fairfax Tee / in store: August 2010, Carhartt S/S Mill to Mill / in store: September 2010 2nd row: NONOT KINGDOME COME / in store: August 2010, Airbag Craftworks sold-out / in store: now, Wemoto Tribe / in store: August 2010, The Hundreds State Bird Tee / in store: July 2010 3rd row: Altru American Gothic / in store: now, Sixpack BELL BELL BELL ‚William‘ / in store September 2010, Volcom Ozzy Wright V-Ent tee / in store: August 2010, Forvert Pan / in store: August 2010 4th row: Globe Cinderella Tee / in store: August 2010, Ucon octagon Wood Tee / in store: August 2010, Stüssy POW...WOW! / in store: now, Makia Taste of Finland / in store: September 2010
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1st row: Element Fire / in store: now, Zoo York Random / in store: September 2010, 5th Exotic YLS / in store: now, Wemoto Cloud / in store: August 2010 2nd row: Ucon Frame Tee / in store: August 2010, Qhuit Young Blood / in store: August 2010, Qhuit Trous de Balles / in store: August 2010, Element Timber / in stores: now, 3rd row: AIAIAI Form Follows Fun / in store: now, Be Street THE HI HATS / in store: August 2010, Altru van gogh Van Gogh / in store: now Ucon Haze Tee / in store: August 2010 4th row: NONOT PARA–DIES–WÄRTS / in store: August 2010, Quiksilver Snake Toss / in store: August 2010, Converse Star Chevron Graphic / in store: July 2010, Airbag Craftworks workshop 07 / in store: now
There‘s no such thing
01 Carhartt cup “Mug” in store: July 2010 02 Fenchurch teapot “Fenchurch Teapot” in store: now 03 Carhartt sleeping bag “Sleeping Bag” in store: July 2010 04 WeSC catsuit “Jenka” in store: August 2010 05 Burton cool bag “Lil’ Buddy” in store: September 2010 06 Cleptomanicx Bettwäsche “Fruity” in store: now 07 Amos pillow “King Ken Pillow” in store: now 08 Cleptomanicx Wäschetonne “Aaltonna” in store: now 09 Sixpack scarf “BUS Carré I Want You” in store: September 2010
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LEM VILLEMIN BLACK & RED CAMPUS VULC 91 – Bright Magazine
adidas.com/skateboarding © 2010 adidas America, Inc. adidas, the trefoil logo and the 3-Stripes mark are registered trademarks of the adidas Group.
01 Cleptomanicx pyjamas “Tattoo” in store: now 02 Matix headphones “Bulkhead Black Stripes” in store: August 2010 03 Stüssy shot glasses “Kostas Shot Glasses” in store: September 2010 04 Jawbone bluetooth-headsets “Icon Catch” in store: now 05 Stüssy camera “Stüssy x Ricoh” in store: now 06 Stüssy card holder “Camo Card Holder” in store: September 2010 07 Airbag Craftworks “iphone sleeve” in store: now
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The Power of Own Brands
Text: Nicolette Scharpenberg
When a shop decides to launch its own brand to sell alongside classic brands it’s not only a chance to increase revenue; in-house brands are also an ideal advertising tool for giving one’s own name more publicity outside of the shop’s four walls. But what does it take for an own brand to be successful anyway? What problems do they face and for whom is it really worthwhile?
A 50-metre queue of skater kids has been forming for the last 24 hours at 274 Lafayette Street in Manhattan. For those in the dark it’s probably an unfamiliar sight. But not for those in the know: after all this is the location of New York’s legendary Supreme store. If a new collection has hit the shelves, the fans don’t mind waiting that little bit longer. In 1994 Englishman James Jebbia brought the skate shop’s own brand Supreme to life. Back then Jebbia, the former business partner of Shawn Stüssy, saw a gap in the streetwear segment. XL styles that only appealed to teens, poor quality and bad tailoring motivated him to create his own brand alongside his skate store, which offered ambitious 94 – Bright Magazine
and premium quality styles to a more grown-up target group between the ages of 18 and 35. Limited skateboard series, 5-panel caps, celebrity shirts and box logo stickers are the key items of every collection and are collected by the scene like works of art. Like a nonverbal code the little red and white box logo is nowadays a symbol for street attitude and has already cast its spell on an entire youth culture. And the secret of its success? From the very beginning Jebbia bet on the right disseminators on the New York skate scene. Regardless of whether it was his past with Stüssy or the support from skate legend Harold Hunter, who, as a result of the film “Kids”, was well known to a wide
public. Jebbia simply hung around with the right people at the right time, which helped his brand to achieve street credibility and worldwide renown. With Supreme he has proven just how closely individuality and exclusivity are linked and thereby laid the foundation stone for a new era of street fashion.
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Learning by doing
Hamburg skate luminary Richie Löffler established his own brand Trap almost parallel to Supreme. In 1992 Löffler started out with stickers and T-shirts, which he printed with the silk-screen printing machine belonging to his team manager at the time from American Sports. His mother’s attic served as a warehouse, the sales were made from his bedroom. Nowadays the collection is made up of almost 140 garments: shirts, hoodies, jackets, underwear, trousers and iPhone hoodies for men and women. The Hamburg native has never officially learnt the fashion trade. It was all about learning by doing. “Back then I tried all kinds of approaches. Even sewing, making templates with a seamstress and sending them to production facilities, or simply sending a sample and just seeing what came of it,” explains Löffler. “I had to deal with shrinkage problems, the choice of right ingredients, the course of the seam , the choice of washes, washing properties and also all other areas like bookkeeping, staff coordination, cash flow and market overview.” Meanwhile everything is going smoothly at Trap. “I got Sabrina Schäfer on board, who designs the men’s and ladies’ collections with me. We take our ideas directly to the producers and make the samples there, test them right away, go skating with them and off we go,” explains Löffler. Nowadays Trap is represented in approx. 150 core skate shops. In Europe and the USA, in leading online shops and of course in his own store, the Mantis Lifestore in Hamburg’s city centre, which he has run alongside Trap since 2000. “I realised that a brand image can be as cool as you like, but for people outside of the skate scene all that actually matters is a top-selling product with super quality and a good price. Otherwise you don’t have a chance on the more commercial market with a niche brand. Trap styles speak for themselves and have already been a role model and source of inspiration for many other streetwear brands,” says Löffler.
Customer frequency and conversion
frontlineshop.com also recently made the decision to launch their own brand. The former music mail order company, which was established in 1986 and which made the move to streetwear in 1994, is now generating an annual turnover of 30 million Euros, with 65 employees at the headquarters in Hamburg and over 250 brands in their portfolio. Roscoe and Liebestraum are the names of their recently launched own brands for men and women, which have been available exclusively on their own homepage since spring 2010: a mixture of casual streetwear basics and fashion items, all designed inhouse. Marc Lohausen, Head of Product Management from frontlineshop said: “We all live for and with fashion and over the last few years we have seen a lot of collections, which is why we are well aware of our needs and those of our customers. So it seemed only logical that we could make the perfect polo or the best everyday fashionista dresses. Our labels carry our frontlineshop spirit and thanks to the prices everyone can be a part of it.” For the realisation of their inhouse brands, as well as subjects like finding names, supplier sourcing, sales analyses, numbers of returns, customer enquiries and gaps in the collection, detailed questions especially in terms of the collection’s stringency were open. “How fitted can a men’s polo shirt be, is electric blue just as strong, quantatively, as coral – those were things that we were occupied with – which at the end of the day weren’t actually real problems, but target-oriented discussions, which have contributed to a top result,” says Lohausen. The hard work has paid off: Roscoe and Liebestraum are already being accepted by the customers as proper brands and have already ranked amongst the top-ten in the frontlineshop.de bestseller list. “It’s highly obvious that our customers see us as their shopping advisor. What could be more obvious than trusting someone who has been successfully running their business for 20 years?” says Lohausen. In his opinion,
there are generally no restrictions for smaller shops that also want to establish their own brand. “I personally like to see small brands that implement their creative ideas in the print sector on standard goods or purposely create and market their first collections virtually by hand. As well as the big players we also stock a few small ones, who still sew their own goods themselves.”
Product is hero
The NORSE Projects concept store from Tobia Sloth, Mikkel Groennebaek and Anton Juul, which opened in 2004 in Copenhagen’s Noerreport district is now one of the elite stores in the world of streetwear, combining classic street and workwear with premium menswear. Alongside brands like Yuketen, Redwing, Nike Sportswear, ObyO, Acne, Steven Alan, Garbstore, Trickers, Original Fake, Pendleton, Alife and their own brand of the same name, NORSE Projects, is currently causing a sensation on the scene. Founded at the same time that the store opened, in 2004, the brand initially consisted only of caps and printed T-shirts. In 2008 a complete collection
Photo: NORSE Projects
by NORSE Projects comprising knitwear, basic shirts, wind and water-repellent jackets, chinos, robust boots, woolly hats and scarves with a distinctive Danish touch, was created for the first time. Each of the makers’ backgrounds have of course been put to good use in the development of their brand. “We all come from the fields of design, art, skateboarding, marketing and distribution. As a result of this we had good contact to producers, distributors and retailers, which we were able to utilise to build up our own brand,” says Mikkel Groennebaek, co-founder of Norse Projects. With the brand claim “Created to improve life – good for all seasons” the creative collective has a clear mission: functional styles, wearable in any situation. “Our focus lies mainly on premium quality materials and tailoring. We produce the majority of our knitwear in Italy and shirts in Europe of european and Japanese fabrics. Outer clothing and caps in England, France and the USA. We never aspired to high-fashion,” explains Groennebaek. “Primarily we’re about creating good and solid products, which everyone can wear and afford. It’s never been about prestige for us.”
No business without marketing
The YBDPT brand by Alexandre Briatore and Radek Sadowski already existed before their YBDPT Studio concept store, which opened in autumn 2008 on Marktstrasse in Hamburg’s Karo quarter. At first YBDPT consisted of accessories, T-shirts and sweats with elaborate silk-screen prints on pre-manufactured goods. What started out in 2007 has now grown to become a small but mighty cut and sew collection, which is produced exclusively for YBDPT Studio at different intervals. Alexandre is responsible for the tailoring and the story behind the product and the collection. Radek on the other hand is in charge of the designs, sketches and the brand’s CI. Getting the brand where it is today was no easy venture for the two Hamburg guys. “There were problems every single day. Whether logistical, technical, 96 – Bright Magazine
financial or creative. You need a certain basic knowledge about the cut and design, lots of time and patience, and of course also a certain budget to play with if you want to even turn the idea of your own brand into a reality. At that point our store as a sales location was pivotal in bringing YBDPT into stores,” says Briatore. Of course, the subject of marketing, especially for such a specific product like YBDPT, plays a big role. “As well as selected fashion and lifestyle blogs, newsletters and social media channels we organise secret events at long intervals, in which we specifically present interesting projects in the fields of contemporary art, photography, fashion, architecture and authentic music. You have to think innovatively and independently and draw attention to yourself; otherwise you’re guaranteed to die the death of an undiscovered genius,” says Briatore. Basically, with silk-screen prints on standard goods every retailer will quickly achieve their goal. But if it goes beyond that and as a retailer you don’t have the necessary know-how regarding design, production, distribution and marketing yourself, then professional support is absolutely essential. As, even if it’s your own brand, at the end of the day it’s the product that counts and which has to convince your customers.
YACKFOU come and visit us at:
Bright Tradeshow, Berlin July, 8th - 10th, Berlin Room 148 Distribution: Placed Distribution Nils Lange Tel Fax Mobil Mail
+49 30 62 84 00 66 +49 30 29 35 18 75 +49 178 211 35 97 email@example.com
For more information: 97 â€“ Bright Magazine www.yackfou.com
Text: Nada Carls
Art Miami, Art Basel, Art Dubai, Art Cologne – so why not Art Bright as well?! Bright initiators Thomas Martini and Marco Aslim have always fared well when taking the “just do it!” approach and the character of Bright mirrors this principle. Over the years a fine forum for exhibitions from the skate, street life, publishing and urban culture sectors established itself in the foyer of the Frankfurt Police Headquarters. The feedback was so positive that the idea of taking it one step further seemed only logical. With the move to Berlin the trade fair will be extended by the art platform “Art Bright”. From now on, an area of around 400m² will be offering even more space for the presentation of publishers, artists and galleries during Bright. The focus will be on art forms that come from the Bright environment and fit in with the sport, music and fashion lifestyle. Visitors and exhibitors will be entertained and informed and urban attitudes will be underlined. It’s all about presenting work and making new contacts, exchange and inspiration – that’s the Bright spirit!
98 – Bright Magazine
Text: Hans-Christian Bussert
Text: Nada Carls “We are not you, we’re not just doin’ it, we’re not lovin’ it and we are not the real thing.” With these borrowings from various well-known slogans from the Disneyland of global consumerism along with their own penname the two Londoners Ben Aldis and Sam Pitcher from 2SickBastards are already making it pretty clear where their art will take us. They are transforming pop icons into freaks and laughing stocks of their own questionable images – mostly cynical and cruel, but rather good if we may say so ourselves. Kate Moss’ bloodied nose certainly says it “in ya face” rather than “between the lines”. In a group exhibition in May 2010 they presented their work at STROKE.02 in Munich with our friends from hatch and in August with Cem Cil they will be at the Hype Gallery in Bochum. At Art Bright the two British bastardos are showing us a small and nasty selection of their wickedness and we are full of gleeful anticipation. And by the way, the boys also print their art on consumer T-shirts.
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Young art magazine? Creatively ambitious streetwear label? Hot water bottles? Hot water bottles?! If you believe that this equation doesn’t really pan out, then you shouldn’t miss the “Bouill’Hot” exhibition from Lamono by Ambiguous. 40 hot water bottles will be exhibited by 40 artists. The participating artists, from Tougui to XLR8 and Friedemann Zschiedrich, are interpreting these most grandma-like of all everyday items in their own individual ways, whereby the term “warmth” plays a central role in all of the work. Since 2006 the magazine makers and curators from Lamono have been stirring up the art cosmos in Barcelona and Madrid. Their supporters, the boys from Ambiguous Clothing, are in no way inferior to them in terms of credibility and they have always considered the cutting edge between the two worlds of “skateboarding”
and “art” to be the starting point for parallel existing forms of expression. And they know a lot about everyday objects: last year they sent 500 table tennis rackets customised by different artists on a world tour. But first things first: don’t miss “Bouill’Hot”– bottles don’t get hotter than this!
Champfest Magazine x Fixedgearlondon
Text: Nada Carls
Anzeigeberlin | Adam Sello
Text: Nada Carls When it comes to skateboarding matters Adam Sello represents clear points of view: commerce is turning kitschy, culture is good and credibility is best. With his words, work and knowledge the old-school skateboarder and young dad conveys this particularly credibly, ever since he quit his studies in psychology and dedicated himself entirely to his passion in 2000. Starting out in the video and film sector, later working mainly as a photographer, Sello set up the independent media company “Anzeigeberlin”, and within ten years has also published countless examples of his work: at the beginning of 2000 he documented the Berlin skateboard scene around the National Gallery in Berlin, including pro-skater Willow when he was still getting off the starting blocks of his skating career, Berlin didn’t even have a skateboard hall yet. The result, the video documentary “Anzeigeberlin Panorama”, was released in 2004 and since January 2005 they’ve been publishing the “Anzeigeberlin Information” magazine, a free independent skate mag in pocket format. The hand-copied booklet began as a fanzine and developed into a small magazine, which is published seven times a year – all previous issues can be found on the website anzeigeberlin.de. Adam Sello represents skateboarding in its pure essence, black and white, rough but clear, with no extra frills. Just one reason why the Berliner-by-choice gets on so well with Bright bosses Thomas and Marco and why he has been involved since the very first event in 2006 in Frankfurt: they really valued each other’s creative work. Which is why Bright is delighted to be presenting Mr. Sello’s photographs at the first ever Bright in Berlin!
www.anzeigeberlin.de 100 – Bright Magazine
Twofold, as a duo, double trouble – that’s the deal this time around with Fixedgear. Australian twin sisters Monique and Joanna Kawecki are the brains behind Champfest Magazine, which is based half in London, half in Melbourne and is completely autonomous. Bikes, art and design dominate the magazine’s contents, with which the girls unite international like-minded fellows of the Fixedgear universe and beyond. Together with Fixedgearlondon (FXDGLDN) at Art Bright the twins are presenting a double exhibit: in a gallery-book corner combination, they want to share their common passion for two-wheelers with the visitors. You will be able to browse through different issues of Champfest and Fixed Magazin or admire the joint photo exhibition featuring some very personal bike impressions. The Londoners are also bringing some of their enviable bikes with them, as well as video projections and their clothing line. Japanese photographer Tomonori Tanaka aka Rip Zinger will be documenting the goings-on at the double expo during Bright. An all-round package!
West Berlin Gallery
Text: Nada Carls The West Berlin Gallery is spot on with its choice of name, both historically and geographically speaking: Brunnenstraße 56, just 100 metres from where the Berlin Wall once stood, is the location of this little gem belonging to Guillaume Trotin and Elodie Bellanger, in the erstwhile Western part of town. Here, in the new heart of the Berlin art scene, every month they show different exhibitions of contemporary urban and digital art, graphic design and illustrations. With Alias, Cuypi, Roland Brückner and Doppeldenk, the art connoisseurs and Bright debutantes are showing four young and established representatives of street art, character design and illustration. At the turn of the millennium Alias got involved in the street art scene in Hamburg. Since 2003 he has lived in Berlin and, with his posters and stickers made with templates and spray cans, he is now a
firm fixture on Berlin’s urban art scene. Cuypi’s works, with their combination of character design and typography, make recurring reference to comics, street culture and films. Putting feelings into images is what the 31-year-old aims to do. With Doppeldenk the extraterrestrial colourful style of two anonymously working Leipzig artists is finding its way into the Bright halls, and last but not least, the illustrator Roland Brückner will be sharing his passion for painting, which he discovered after a skateboard accident as a teenager. A bright bunch of contemporary art welcomes you!
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Text: Nada Carls The full-bearded and fullblooded gallery owner Sergej Vutuc living in Heilbronn, has once again put together a surprise package for the Bright community with Basementizid. Sergej’s worldwide network of artists is the result of his constant, tireless travelling and ranges from urban artists to makers of fanzine culture, from experimental photography to skateboard documentation. At Bright, Vutuc is showing a project, filmed in a 60m² flat in Heilbronn; a photo story about the “Sk8 & BMX Apartment”. The story behind it is that a few skate and BMX kids built themselves a skate park out of rubbish and rubble and really rocked it to its foundations. The works of Andrea Pritschow from the fourth part of her gender research will also be on show: “Toys don’t cry” – a manifesto of fertility and domesticated manhood. She says: “Only the middle is raised to an objective. The form is not freely chosen, it has always served as an abstraction. While the shape of a brain is difficult to abstract, when it comes to a stick and two balls everyone immediately knows what is meant by it. A penis is a penis is a penis.” Oooookay.
In addition Vutuc is showing a fanzine exhibition of the PlemPlem Zines, on which many international artists have collaborated. A further highlight has to be the publication of “Incidentals” by Eric Mirbach, who has been writing and mainly taking photos for Monster Magazine for years now. As expected, in his first photo publication the newly-qualified photo designer devotes his work to the skateboard scene. In exclusively monochrome images he demonstrates the fundamental self-conception of skateboarders worldwide: that skateboarding is not a sport, it’s an attitude.
102 – Bright Magazine
Fauxami presents Freaks! of Nature
Text: Nada Carls Throughout the entire history of the board on wheels there has been nothing but prejudice for the skater: billed as destructive and noisy with unwashed hair and bad style, big-city rats and small-town revolutionaries on strange-looking vehicles. Clichéd blonde US cheerleaders in high school films call them “Freaks!” – and that’s why we love ‘em! For the summer 2010 edition of Bright our friends Daniel Schmid and Jürgen Blümlein from Fauxami have an exhibition up their sleeves that loosely deals with the topic. Under the title “Freaks! of Nature” the exhibition showcases characteristic and unusual objects from the skateboarding cosmos: homemade or oversized skateboards, a pair of baggy pants with enough room for three skaters, an axle with built-in wheel and suspension! And fitting in nicely with Bright’s move to “East” Berlin they will also be showing the development of the skateboard in the GDR – the Germina Speeder Board – manufactured by the VEB Schokoladen-Verarbeitungsmaschinen in Wernigerode. A total design-disaster, but very amusing – we’re looking forward to seeing it all!
103 – Bright Magazine
Be Street: Dunkeys Art Show
Text: Nada Carls Since 2007 the French team from Be Street have been publishing their must-see urban culture magazine, quarterly and in 13 countries worldwide. The contents of Be Street revolve around music, fashion and art from L.A. to Tokyo, all in the service of trendsetting, of course. At the summer 2010 edition of Bright they will be presenting artists who have contributed to their magazine. In his “Dunkeys” exhibition, Coolrain from Korea will be showing a collection of designed toys with monkey heads wearing all kinds of streetwear uniforms. 50 of the handmade figures appeared in the “Dunk Be True” campaign by Nike in 2008. Be Street will also be joined by the illustrators Iain McArthur, McBess and Nikibi – all talented guys from the sectors of comic-trash to Pop Art. The Be Street gang have told us they can’t wait for their first Bright visit and really want to have a blast. Okay, we get the picture!
Emil Kozak x Element
Text: Hans-Christian Bussert The title of his exhibition “Small pencils, big dreams” would also be valid as Emil Kozak’s life motto. From a young boy in the Danish countryside, who dreamt of overcoming the laws of gravity with his skateboard, he has become an internationally sought-after artist. His commercial work for companies like Dell and Nike is characterised by his illustrative style, which works mainly with geometric forms and simple contrasts. On a non-commercial level he is constantly expanding his range of methods: for an exhibition in the Düsseldorf gallery “Nina Sagt” in March 104 – Bright Magazine
he experimented with small-format photographs and typography. And that’s exactly what he will be showing at Bright: both older and more recent projects that give an overview of his work to date. It is to the credit of his patrons from Element – for whom Emil Kozak is a kind of label diplomat and acts as a so-called “advocate” – that they gave him free rein with his choice of work. His spiritual and formal proximity to skateboarding and board art are apparent to every visitor at first glance. So in that sense, Emil Kozak’s art is simply another way of overcoming gravity.
105 – Bright Magazine
Visit us at BRIGHT Tradeshow: Room # 249, 250, 251
SÄCK & NOLDE Distribution | Phone: +49 (0)234 / 893980 | www.saeckundnolde.de | firstname.lastname@example.org
4 Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin daily newspaper
JAN MIELKE & LUISA
MADE I N C___ HINA the new prognosis by Martin Cho
THE REDES GN SSUE
I M AG E FULGURATOR ___ a camera fetish by Michael Ladner
JESSICA M I T ___ RANI the prophetic feminist talks to Emily Segal
C AT WA L K R E V___ IEWS
Stefan Eckert Lala Berlin Kaviar Gauche
Alejandro Jodorowsky » The Tarot of Marseilles« Marseilles «
Deutschland € 3,60 • Österreich € 3,80 Schweiz sfr 7,– • sonstiges Ausland € 5,–
/// NIKE NIK NI IKE KE SB S B IN IN MALAYSIA MAL MA ALA L AY AYS YSI S IA IA M MIT ACHMÜLLER, BEINHOFER CO. MIIT IT AC A CHM CH HMÜ MÜL ÜLL LLE LER ER, R, BE B EIN EI INH NHO HOF OFE FER ER & CO C O. O. KIDS BLOCK /// NEW NEW NE EW KI K IDS ID DS ON ON THE THE TH HE BL B LOC LO OCK CK SSÜ SÜSSE ÜSSE MOVES Ü ÜS S SE SS S E JU JJUNGS UNG UN NGS GS & CRAZY CRA CR R AZ A ZY Z Y MO M OVE OV VES ES /////// YOUNESS YOU YO OUN UNE NES ESS S S AMRANI AMR AM MRA R AN ANI NI B BELGISCHE ELGISCHE BANGER BE ELG EL LGI GIS I SC SCH CHE HE BA BA AN NGE NG GER ER
286 - JUNI 2010
MIT NIKE SB IN MALAYSIA /// DER FAKTOR A – SKATEBOARDER & ANGST /// NEW KIDS ON THE BLOCK /// YOUNESS AMRANI
F FAKTOR AKTOR FA A AK KT KT TO OR OR
+++ www.skateboardMSM.de +++
106 – Bright Magazine
The tarot will teach you how to create a soul. I have always been drawn to things I found interesting but couldn’t understand. The tarot fascinated me because it was very strange. I studied the tarot card by card. I saw its structure... I saw the suits... But I didn’t understand the tarot. Then I started mixing the cards. I saw I could put them together and realized that the 78 cards could be joined in a mandala, in just one image. You see all the tarot at once and realize that it is a unit. And then you study the different parts. Once you analyze this, you learn to see the tarot. You must not talk about the future. The future is a con. The tarot is a language that talks about the present. If you use it to see the future, you become a conman. You are just a charlatan.
nr. 25 mai/juni 2010 chf 6.–
#231 THE MENSWEAR ISSUE
MAY⁄JUN 2010 D87003
GERMANY € 12,00 SWITZERLAND SFR 25,70 DENMARK DKR 110,00 UK £ 9,70 / USA $ 17 REST OF EUROPE € 14 REST OF WORLD € 16
MODERNSAMURAI FEATURE THE STATE OF MENSWEAR FASHION TRENDS NEW NATURE PEOPLE BILLY REID & ROBERT GELLER
ISSN 1860-9996 | D € 5,00 | USA $ 10,00 | UK £ 6,00 | SKR 70 | NKR 85 E, F, I € 9,00 | A, B, L, NL € 6,00 | CHF 10 | CNY 100 | HKD 80 | JPY 1400
STW2D No. 33 I | 2010: JULY, AUGUST, SEPTEMBER | “Past, Present, Future” STUSSY FORVERT | JEREMY FISH | NILS MÜLLER | ONTOUR | RANSOM | NYNO | INSIGHT | 2SB | ...
Krautrock! Carsten Nicolai Daniel Josefsohn Werner Herzog Mark Ruffalo Prins Thomas Flying Lotus ...
107 – Bright Magazine
Zeitschrift für Populärkultur und Bewegungskunst MAY /JUN/JUL 2010 Deutschland & Österreich € 6.00 Benelux/France € 9.95 UK £ 6.00 Schweiz CHF 11.00
Bright Brigade Photographer Thomas Wolfzettel will also be portraying the different faces of Bright in Berlin. Keep an eye out for his studio or a flyer and become a “member of the Bright Brigade”. If you already are, find your portrait at
108 – Bright Magazine
109 â€“ Bright Magazine
According to the old retail wisdom: real selling begins with the first “no”. Simply hearing the word “no” instead of these end-consumer sayings below would be music to our ears …
The customer is always right, or is he…?!
Are these all the shoes you have? (Despite being shown a selection of over 100 styles) At those prices I would expect a board like that to last ten years! I saw that item in an outlet in the USA for eight Dollars.
Can you reserve that for me? Hmmm, well for three weeks, on Tuesday?
Hey dude, do you have those caps with an A on them like Usher wears?
Woooooooah, everything is made in China!
What other sizes do still you have this shoe in?
Don’t you have trainers with an Air system anymore?
80 Euros? Young man, that’s 160 Deutsch Marks!
If you had that shoe in blk-wht-green-yellow-royal-checker with stripes and pink laces, I’d buy it like a shot.
I’m a regular customer. Can you give me a discount on the price? (Even though no one has ever seen the guy before)
Are your tattoos from Ed Hardy too?
These jeans are amazing, but I think I’ll come back again with my girlfriend just to make sure.
Do you have Carrots, no wait, I think they’re called Charhards? (Carhartt)
But on the internet these trainers are 4.50 Euros cheaper. You really are mega-expensive. Where? I haven’t got a clue what website it was …
Yes, but when EXACTLY will it be reduced?
110 – Bright Magazine
Do you have those Wesk headphones? (WeSC)
GEL LYTE III
BIKU CV BIKU DNM BIKU LE DX
MANAMI MT LE
KAELI MT CV
AARON VC PS
AARON PLUS CV AARON AARON CV
111 – Bright Magazine
Gravis Footwear www.gravisfootwear.com
Black Diamond www.havoc-distribution.com
Grind King www.grindking.com
Black Magic www.247dist.com
Bones Bearings www.bonesbearings.com
Dog Town www.dogtownskateboards.com
Bones Wheels www.boneswheels.com
Drop Dead www.iheartdropdead.com
Dualite Wheels www.mightydistribution.com
Adidas Originals www.adidas.com
DVS Shoes www.dvsshoes.com
Bummer High Skateboards www.bummer-high.com
# 667 www.sixsixseven.net 2SickBastards www.2sickbastards.blogspot.com 4Star www.fourstarclothing.com
Airbagcraftwork www.airbagcraftworks.com alife www.alifenyc.com Alien Workshop www.alienworkshop.com Almost www.almostawebsite.com Altamont www.altamontapparel.com Ambiguous www.ambiguousclothing.com Amos www.amostoys.com Amphetamine www.amphetamine-bearings.com Analog Clothing www.analogclothing.com Angst www.angst-skateboards.com Anti Hero www.antiheroskateboards.com Anzeige Berlin www.anzeigeberlin.de Arnette www.arnetteantics.com ASICS SPORTSTYLE www.asics.de Atm www.atmclick.com Atticus www.atticusclothing.com
B Baker www.bakerskateboards.com Bellows Skateboards www.bellowsskateboards.com Be Street www.be-street.com Bewol www.bewol.com Berlinwood www.berlinwood.com
112 – Bright Magazine
Chico Clothing www.chico-clothing.de
City Skateboards www.thecitystreets.com
Expensive Taste www.expensivetaste.net
City Stars Skateboards www.citystarsskateboarding.com
Converse www.converse.de Core Trucks www.core-trucks.com Crail www.crailtap.com Creature www.creatureskateboards.com Creation www.creationskateboards.com Creme www.cremeskateboards.com
D DC Shoes www.dcshoes.com Deathwish www.bakerboysdist.com Dekline www.dekline.com Destructo www.destructotrucks.com
Hooligan www.hooligan.de Hub Footwear www.hubfootwear.com Hubba www.hubbawheels.com
Hype Skateboards www.mightydistribution.com
Elm Clothing www.elmcompany.com
Electric Visual www.electricvisual.com
I Incase www.goincase.com Independent www.independenttrucks.com Industrial Trucks www.mightydistribution.com Innes www.innesclothing.com Ipath www.ipath.com/blog IRIEDAILY www.iriedaily.de
IRON Trucks www.pivot-distribution.de
Famous Stars and Straps www.famoussas.com
Iron Fist www.ironfist.tv
Flip www.flipskateboards.com FMS shoes www.famoussas.com Forvert www.forvert.com Foundation www.foskco.com FREEDOM www.freedombmx.de
J JART www.jartskateboards.com Jessup www.griptape.com Jim Rickey www.jimrickey.com Just Junkies www.justjunkies.dk
Frends www.wearefrends.com Fury www.furytruckcompany.com
G Gingko www.gingkopress.com Girl www.girlskateboards.com Globe www.globe.tv
K Kingtide www.kingtide.de Kontrol Weehls www.kontrolwheels.com KR3W www.kr3wapparel.com Krux www.kruxtrucks.com
113 – Bright Magazine CLEPTOMANICX.COM
BRIGHT SUMMER 2010 — ROOM NO. 253/2 — COME AALONG!
Paint the Stars www.paintthestars.co.uk
Santa Cruz www.santacruzskateboards.com
Pirate Skateboards www.pirateskateboards.se
Les Ettes www.lesettes.com
Lifetime Collective www.lifetimecollective.com
Plan B www.planbskateboards.com
Planet earth www.planet-earth-clothing.com
LONG ISLAND www.pivot-distribution.de
Lousy Livin www.livincompany.de
LOVEM www.loveskateboardsblog.blogspot. com
Sportswear int. www.sportswearnet.com
Streetwear Today www.stw2d.com
Lowlife www.lowlife.com LUCKY Bearings www.luckybearingsco.com LRG www.l-r-g.com
M Makia Clothing www.makiaclothing.com March www.marchskateboards.de Matix www.matixclothing.com Momentum www.momentumskate.com Monster www.skateboardmsm.de
N Navigator www.navigatortrucks.com Nike 6.0 www.nike6.com Nike SB www.nikeskateboarding.com Nikita www.nikitaclothing.com nil&mon www.nilandmon.com NONOT www.nonot.de
O Oakley www.oakley.com Obey www.obeygermany.com Ogio www.ogio.com Onitsuka Tiger www.onitsukatiger.com www.asics.de ONTOUR www.ontour.nl Osiris www.osirisshoes.com
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Q Qhuit www.qhuit.com Quicksilver www.global.quiksilver.com
Real www.realskate.com Record www.recordclothing.net Red Dragon www.reddragonapparel.com Reell www.reelljeans.com Refined www.refined-by-bb.com Reflex www.reflexbearings.com Riviera www.rivieralongboards.com ROBOTRON www.robotronskate.com Rogue Status/DTA www.roguestatus.com ROXY www.roxy-europe.com Royal www.royalskateboardtruck.com Rush Bearings www.rushbearings.com RVCA www.rvca.com
U Ucon Acrobatics www.ucon-acrobatics.com Urban Ears www.urbanears.com
V Vanilla wheels www.vanillawheels.com Vans www.vans.com Venture www.venturetrucks.net Verve www.verve-magazine.com Volcom email@example.com Vox Footwear www.voxfootwear.com
W Wemoto www.wemoto.de
Rasa Libre www.rasalibre.com
Sweet Skateboards www.sweetskateboards.com
T Technine www.technine.com Tensor www.tensortrucks.com
X X-Treme Video www.x-tremevideo.com
Y Yackfou www.yackfou.com
The Hundreds www.thehundreds.com The Skateboard Mag www.theskateboardmag.com The Wild Ones www.thewildones.com The Zonders www.thezonders.com Think www.thinkskateboards.com Thirty Six www.thirtysix.de Thrasher www.thrashermagazine.com Thunder www.thundertrucks.com Toy Machine www.toymachine.com Tracker Trucks www.trackertrucks.com Transworld www.skateboarding.transworld.net Tricks Skateboards www.pivot-distribution.com
Z Zero www.zeroskateboards.com Zoo York www.zooyork.com
Bright Tradeshow Berlin Room 260. makiaclothing.com
Issue 03 / Summer 10 Issue 03 / Summer 10
Bright Tradeshow Magazine Issue 03 Englisch Summer 2010