EXPLORING LIFE, LAND AND CULTURE FROM THE HEART OF THE YELLOWSTONE REGION
GEAR Photo by Jake Campos
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Bakken photo essay explorebigsky.com
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As evening fades to night, steam rises from the moon-like surface of the upper terraces of Mammoth Hot Springs. Photo by Ethan Confer / ethanconfer.com
SUMMER 2013 On the cover: Sasha Hyland practices her mounted archery on the Ellison Ranch, near McLeod, Montana. Hyland, who makes her own bows and arrows, has shot big game animals from atop her horse, Kalida, and is founder of the nonprofit Montana Awareness Education and Equine Rehabilitation Association. Find more on page 18.
departments 14 Trailhead Dirt bike racing, Cody’s Wild West River Fest and cheese 18 Outlook Profile of a primitive hunter, teacher 22 Outbound Photo Gallery 30 Tales Bowhunting in pronghorn country Running Grand Canyon at 42,000 CFS 42 Regional Teresa Bruffey searches for her ancestors’ homestead 46 Environment A vital refuge: Dome Mountain Ranch 49 Science Will wolverines be listed as threatened?
75 Music Electronic dance music – at the height of its powers 78 Real Estate Architect Larry Pearson’s pioneering mind 82 Gear A dog’s life Car camping rules! 89 Explore A dad’s guide to mountain adventure with little ones 94 Guide: Yellowstone region Whitewater, galleries, spas and more Outlaw’s restaurant picks 104 Adventure The Rut 50k, Montana’s Euro-style ultramarathon 108 Health Gluten-free: fact or fad? 118 Artisan Shelly Bermont custom jewelry 12 0 Featured Outlaw Buckskin Bill, the eccentric mountain man
Chickâ€™N Fried gives a young rider a run for his money at the 2012 Professional Bull Riders event in Big Sky, Montana. The 2013 tour brings two nights of music and bull riding to the Big Sky Town Center July 31 and August 1. Find more at explorebigsky.com/bigskypbr. Photo by jake campos / jakecampos.com
FEATURES 34 NOW A formation: Adapting to life in the Bakken A photographic essay depicts life in an oil boom. Images: Tyler Busby Words: Joseph T. Oâ€™Connor 52 PROFILE A compass for life Former cop and owner of Blue Ribbon Flies in West Yellowstone, Montana, Craig Mathews has influenced fly fishing and conservation philosophy worldwide. Words: Emily Stifler 60 OUTDOOR SPORTS: BIKING Three stories on two wheels: Jackson, Wyoming, intro to cyclocross, and the dirt on extreme mountain biker Mike Kinrade. Words: Kristen Pope, Chris Davis, Emily Stifler 68 ESCAPE Kauai, baby This is Heaven on Earth. Words: Eric Ladd 101 HISTORY The Haynes legacy lives on In 1887, Frank J. Haynes completed the first winter photographic documentation of Yellowstone, spending 29 days covering 200 miles, and nearly dying on Mount Washburn. Now, the newly restored Old Faithful Haynes Photo Gallery provides visitors a place to give back. Words: Maria Wyllie 112 CULTURE Art from Earth A wine expert and Afghanistan veteran explores the growing Washington State wine scene, and introduces some of its key players. Words: Kurt Erickson
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Dog Days of Summer
Camp Big Sky’s third annual fundraiser, Dog Days of Summer, is Saturday, August 10, in Big Sky, Montana. The fun includes a canine costume parade, a pet trick contest, dog demos, a fun trail run/walk, a rubber duck race, a cakewalk, ice cream floats, and the dock diving competition.
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from the publisher
Travel near and far Mountain Outlaw is a compilation of stories inspired from the region in and around our nation’s oldest national park, Yellowstone. In each issue, we also have a travel section taking readers to adventures afar. Past editions include stories from the Grand Canyon, Nepal and Bali. In this magazine, readers will get a glimpse of Kauai, a magnificent island paradise with arguably the most idyllic sunset on the planet. In fall 2013, we’ll feature a tale of traveling to Sayulita, Mexico, recounting the taco stands, surf breaks and oceanfront lodging that define this quaint beach town. While it’s difficult to leave the Yellowstone region, it’s fun to find hideaway adventures in other parts of the globe. This magazine is meant to inspire and help guide you to these amazing places.
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highlighted in the Kauai feature. They help bring our publication to life. Whether you’re reading this magazine en route to Montana, riding the train to work in Manhattan or nestled into a coffee shop in Bozeman, please enjoy this issue and feel free to send us your ideas and feedback.
My appreciation for the hard work on this publication and support from our advertisers runs deep. For this issue, I want to give special credit to talented contributing photographers like Tyler Busby, who shot the Bakken photo essay, cover photographer Jake Campos and Aaron Feinberg, whose work is
The idyllic surf town of Sayulita, Mexico, will be featured in the fall issue of Mountain Outlaw. This photo shows the view from El Palacio, arguably one of the town’s finest beachside rentals. Outlaw Partners Photo
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from the editor
Eventually Emily put away her ski boots and went climbing. Gallatin Canyon, Montana. Photo by Ryan Day Thompson
the Details The magic light hits us at 10,000 feet on Mount Moran, and the world glows pink. It’s 6 a.m., and this is why I’m alive: slogging through the rain with a heavy pack, dragging my ski gear through the mud and over snowdrifts long after the resorts are closed, finding crisp claw-marks of fresh grizzly tracks in the snow. The sun rises over the Gros Ventre Range, hitting Jackson Lake 3,000 feet below. Refracting off the water, its blinding rays cast angular shadows. In my periphery, I see ancient, dark metamorphosed Teton rock, spring snow lapping its edges, our boot prints, and gnarled alpine trees. In writing and editing you must choose these salient details, and eliminate the rest. A few have stuck with me from this magazine: the way Sasha Hyland moves in concert with her horse; Kurt Erickson’s mouthwatering descriptions of Washington-grown wines; and the look on 21-year-old Kylee Karschner’s face, which speaks of determination and resilience as a truck mechanic in the Bakken oilfields. With such breadth, we’d better focus on the details. We hope some of them strike you in the same way.
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featured contributors Allan
Ashley Allan is a holistic health coach, board certified by the American Association of Drugless Practitioners. Born in Canada, Allan runs her practice, Ashley Health Coach, in Bozeman, where she lives with her fiancée and two dogs. Reinhold Tyler Busby was born in Gallup, New Mexico and raised in the Bay Area, California. Drawn to the serenity of natural landscapes, Busby received a B.A. in Photography from Montana State University and currently lives in Big Sky, Montana. Find more of Busby’s work at tylerbusbyphotography.com. Aaron Feinberg is no stranger to seeing and capturing the beauty and natural movement of life. What started as a ski bum hobby of photographing friends in Utah’s Wasatch Mountains has developed into a world-class, award-winning fine art portfolio. Erik Reinhold owns and operates Sizzlestick Welding, LLC in Gallatin Gateway, Montana, where he specializes in ornamental and structural metalwork.
Kristen Pope is a writer and environmental educator who lives in Jackson, Wyoming. The father of two exuberant boys, ages 4 and 2, Jackson, Wyoming-resident Luke Lynch strives to pass on his passion for high adventure in the outdoors by including his sons in hiking, biking, skiing and other outside pursuits. Lynch is the Wyoming State Director of The Conservation Fund. Pope Lynch
Born and raised in Montana, Caleb George, 27, lives in Missoula with his springer spaniel, Trotter. George works six months of the year as a river ranger on the Middle Fork of the Salmon, and of the other six months, he says, “Well, I am still trying to figure that out.”
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30 years of wilderness
The Spanish Peaks, pictured here, are part of the 254,635-acre, wildlife-rich Lee Metcalf Wilderness, set aside 30 years ago by Congress in honor of former Senator Jesse Metcalf. A summer-long anniversary will include hikes, trail service projects, a signature beer, gear giveaways, photo contests and a giant party to cap it all off. summeroflee.com
Photo by Kene SPerry
A kayaker navigates the Shoshone River canyon, west of Cody, Wyoming. PHOTO COURTESY OF GRADIENT MOUNTAIN SPORTS
Cody Wild West River Fest August 23-24
Cody’s inaugural Wild West River Fest brings together families, kayakers and anglers in the name of fun and education. “Rivers provide clean drinking water, irrigation for farms that put food on our tables, a place for us to recreate and habitat for wildlife,” says organizer Katherine Thompson, of The Nature Conservancy.
Activities include river races, demos, and a fly fishing competition on the Shoshone River; a bluegrass concert at City Park; and a fly fishing film festival at the Buffalo Bill Historical Center. codyriverfest.com
Am/Pro Yamaha racer Jordan Ashburn of Cookville, Tennessee, navigates Big Sky XC’s infamous rock garden. Photo by Jesse Ziegler
Big Sky XC
Big Sky Resort will host the American Motorcyclist Association’s premier off-road motorcycle race this year, August 24-25. An endurance race on technical mountain single track with classes ranging from youth to professional, “It’s tough to ride it fast and finish,” said Bozeman pro rider Mark Weirich. The AMA/KENDA Big Sky Off Road National Championships, which has a $10,000 purse, will draw some of the country’s most talented racers. bigskyxc.com
recommended reading Atlas of Yellowstone University of California Press, 2012 The Shoshone Sheep Eater Indians embarked on ritualistic vision quests to Yellowstone’s geysers and bubbling mud pots, seeking guidance from the powerful, underwater spirits believed to be living beneath them. Today, visitors take a similar pilgrimage, traveling from around the world to photograph the famous Old Faithful geyser and swim in the warm Firehole River. Scholars and tourists alike can now look even deeper into the area’s hidden treasures and
storied past with the Atlas of Yellowstone, the first comprehensive atlas of a U.S. national park. With more than 500 maps and data compiled by experts, it offers an in-depth and full-color look into the area’s geography, environment and wildlife, as well as the park’s human history. Compelling stories from the microscopic to the global scale make Atlas of Yellowstone a must read for anyone interested in this unique region. – Maria Wyllie
Teton Valley Creamery
When renowned Dutch cheesemaker Fons Smits traveled to Teton Valley, Idaho instead of relaxing like most tourists, he spent the entire trip biking back roads in search of dairy farmers. Smits, who has helped start small artisan creameries all over the U.S., was convinced the small pastoral valley was ripe for the craft so renowned in Holland.
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Four years later, Teton Valley Creamery is churning out top quality cheese, handmade with milk from independent local dairies, as well as a line of fresh gelatos and ice cream. This summer, head cheesemaker Lindsay Klaunig (who refined her skills while working with Romanian gypsies, among other experts around the world), plans to roll out several new and reworked cheeses: Sapphire Blue, a creamy blue with a hint of pepper; the Yellowstone, washed in beer; the Haystack, a havarti, and a Camembert. – Molly Loomis
Available at select stores and restaurants around the Yellowstone region – stop by the shop in Driggs, Idaho for a taste. tetonvalleycreamery.com
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T o break a mare Profile of a primitive hunter, teacher
Sasha Hyland with her horse, Kalida Photo by Jake Campos
By Emily Stifler
Sasha Hyland was 19 when she rescued Kalida. “Someone had burnt her with hot rod irons – she has those scars on her shoulder,” said Hyland, pictured on the cover of this magazine with Kalida. “At first, nobody could touch her. She had no flight response, just attack, and she’d literally run people down, teeth flaring, striking with her front legs.” The horse was 3 years old when Hyland found her at the Shipshewana, Indiana slaughterhouse. “There was something in her eyes,” Hyland said. She had rescued another mare, Magic, at the same time, who was just as apprehensive of people. To get them used to her, Hyland would go into their pasture and read, and after a few weeks they approached her with curiosity. “We started playing crazy games,” Hyland recalls. “I’d run after them, and then turn and book it out. Both mares would run after me and jump and kick, playing. I
would hide behind trees, and then jump out, and they’d rear up and run away in play. It put me into the herd more than if I was just trying to catch them.” After two months, Hyland was able to touch Kalida, give her treats and groom her. Within a few more weeks, she broke the horse bareback, and now, 13 years later, she’s gentle enough for children to ride. A self-described “angsty, troubled kid,” Hyland perhaps needed Kalida equally as much. Originally from Toronto, she started riding at age 4 and moved to Michigan at 8. “I didn’t really get along with kids my age, and I spent a lot of time outside. The only connections I had were with animals and the Earth.” She recalls sitting on her parent’s deck at age 9, holding seed until birds would feed from her hand. Now 32, Hyland founded the nonprofit Montana Awareness Education and Equine Rehabilitation Association, in 2010. Through MAERA, she rehabilitates horses, teaches archery, bowmaking and primitive
skills classes. Classes are at her barn in Emigrant, and also in Big Sky, Belgrade and McLeod. The horses she takes in are used for riding lessons, trail rides, pack trips, summer camp programs, horsemanship classes and therapy for troubled youth. Hyland still has both mares, and Kalida is now her main backcountry horse. Since training her for mounted archery in 2006, Hyland has shot elk and deer from the saddle, both with her handmade bows (also pictured on the cover) and with a rifle. You might say Kalida is a natural. “Before I ever started shooting mounted archery, she loved running with deer in Michigan,” Hyland said. While rifle hunting near the Ellison Ranch, in the West Boulder, Montana, last fall, Hyland dismounted on a side hill to scope a herd of elk. She shot one, and while she was field dressing it, Kalida took off running with the elk. Hyland had to walk three miles back to the ranch. Hunting from horseback is a form of camouflage, Hyland said.
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“The prey’s response to another prey [animal] is different than if I was stalking around, sending off my energy as a predator. Horses have the ability to displace, or mask, my predatory energy by covering it with their own prey curiosity.” Like a horse trained to cut cows, a hunting horse learns the movement and behavior specific to game animals. Strategy is just as important as speed, Hyland says, explaining that she tries to anticipate which direction her game is going to split by knowing the lay of the land. She compares it to driving, watching a hawk fly alongside the car. “You see things while moving at the same speed of this other animal that you would never see standing and watching it. At first it was distracting, because I got lost in the beauty of what was happening around me.” She doesn’t see hunting as a sport, and uses every part the animals – from the tendons to make cordage, to brain for tanning the hide. “My favorite thing is the ability to get close, being connected with the Earth and seeing the beauty that surrounds.”
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Rolf Belden paragliding over Beaver Mountain, Wyoming rebeccabredehoft.com
Above: This rider had his hands full of a feisty bronc at the Gardiner, Montana, rodeo. Right: A big tom cat posed for a few moments in the Wineglass area outside of Livingston, Montana, before jumping down to resume his role as king of the mountain. horsefeathersphotography.com
Todd Heath making turns during an evening wake surf session on Flathead Lake, Montana. morthphotography.com
After road-tripping from Bozeman, Montana, photographer Max Lowe found magic among the lunacy and laughter of the 13,000 attendees at Summer Set Music Festival, Wisconsin. Pictured here, Kim, of the indie rock band Matt and Kim, riles up the crowd during their set. maxlowemedia.com
Whit Magro nearing the top of pitch five on Virtual Reality, a 5.13 in the Beartooth Mountains, Wyoming. jasonthompsonphotography.com
Up close: A dragonfly in August at the East Gallatin Recreation Area in Bozeman, Montana. bsorgphoto.bigcartel.com
y in r u ntingr n C o u nt Bowh ongho Pr
30 Mountain photo by david reeves
By Erik Reinhold
The August sun was in its full fury, and beads of sweat coursed down my back. After what seemed like miles of belly crawling and pushing my bow in front of me, I lay in a maze of sagebrush. My hands, elbows and knees stung from a private acupuncture appointment by a covert, prickly pear cactus. I could taste sweat. I had spent the morning stalking a large herd of pronghorns. Now was my chance to breach their outer defenses. With my two doe tags already filled, I had only my buck tag left. My quarry, a couple of bucks among the herd of does, lay before me, grazing. I rose gently to get a better look, and before I could decide what to do next, a sentinel doe saw me. Busted! She snorted, alerting the group, and they loped a half mile to private property. I followed them, walking cautiously until I could see exactly where they were in relation to the invisible property line â€“ far into private. Scanning the horizon with my binoculars, I found a new target group: eight bachelor bucks feeding, playing and feeling the hormones that would fuel their behavior during the fall rut. Watching this gave me hope, so I sat down to soak up the portrait before me. They wandered toward me and bedded within 500 yards. Curious about the herd, they rose and raced toward the does. I rallied to the only cover around â€“ a few boulders about three feet in diameter. As I settled in, two bucks sprinted past me, but by the time I fumbled to nock an arrow, they were already in the next time zone. Bewildered, I turned to discover two more bucks feeding up over the hill. When the smaller one was about 20 yards away, he saw me. But the larger one stood broadside, unaware. I drew my bow, calculated the yardage and released. The buck dropped in his tracks, and triumph engulfed me. After thanking the spectacular creature, I field dressed him swiftly. Trekking out, I let my mind wander over the mountains around me, through the forests and across the high prairie. I meditated on my next adventure, overwhelmed with appreciation for this remote country.
Royal flush The Grand Canyon at 42,000 cfs
By Caleb George
and the once-calm eddy circling under them has turned to a microburst of wood, garbage and foam.
The river’s deafening roar against the marbled cliffs hammers my mind like a bad bottle of bourbon. My heart skips as the sound of the water crashes against every submerged boulder, its power scouring the rocks from the bottom of this ancient canyon. Waves crash against the shore, their behavior more flagrant every hour. I feel cagy, watching camp disappear under the encroaching abyss now surging like ocean tide, but eventually, at 1 a.m., I crawl into my sleeping bag. At 4 a.m., I check the boats – my eighth time. They’re dancing frantically at the end of their 20-foot bowlines,
I walk to the lower reaches of the 1,000-foot limestone rim towering over our camp and place my hand on its stony bosom. The rock vibrates beneath my palm, charged by the explosions of water upstream. I lie back down and look to the stars, the canyon walls silhouetted above me. Weary, I try to collect my thoughts from the days prior. I remember the feeling of my boat falling out from under me, a 20-foot wave smashing my chest, the brown rapids surging with power. The world becomes dark and wet. In this moment, absorbing the chaos around me, I find peace.
High flow releases on the Colorado River George led this high-water trip down the Grand Canyon from November 18 - December 7, 2012. The river level peaked at 42,000 cubic feet per second during that time – high compared to an average summer trip’s 8,000-12,000 cfs. The high-flow release was part of a 16-year Bureau of Reclamation experimental program designed to mimic the natural flooding of the Colorado River through Glen and Grand canyons that occurred prior to the construction and operation of the Glen Canyon Dam, according to the USBR website.
Top: Caleb George shot this in one of the Grand Canyon’s “Roaring ‘20s” rapids while running the river at high flow. “I can’t remember which rapid it was,” George said, “because we were moving so fast.” Below: Launch morning at Lee’s Ferry Photos by Caleb George
The high water picks up sand stored in the river channel and re-deposits it downstream in sandbars and beaches. These sand features and associated backwater can provide key fish and wildlife habitat, potentially reduce erosion of archaeological sites, restore and enhance riparian vegetation, increase the size of beaches, and enhance wilderness values along the river. – E.S.
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Running the Kokatat Ronin Pro life jacket through its paces in the legendary waves of Hermit Rapid, Grand Canyon. Outlaw Partners photo
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Bakken Shale ND
MT Williston Basin
A Formation Adapting to life in the Bakken Photographs by Tyler Busby | Words by Joseph T. O’Connor
T h e y c o m e fo r w o r k . Wa i t r e s s e s , e x - c o n s , s t u d e n t s , carpenters, strippers, oilmen. They seek promise in the Bakken, a new beginning, hope. North Dakota, where much of the Bakken shale formation is located, ranks lowest among U.S. states in unemployment, at 3.3 percent, and second in oil production. Longtime residents of Williston, Watford City, Glendive and Sidney – North Dakota and Montana towns in the Bakken formation – stay if they can, because it’s home. However that’s become
increasingly difficult. An April 19, 2013 classified ad in the Williston Herald announced a three-bedroom home renting for $3,500 per month. Mountain Outlaw sent a photographer, writer and videographer this spring to document the good, the bad and the ugly of an oil play, and to glean information on how Montana should prepare for what’s coming.
View the making of the photo essay at explorebigsky.com/bakken
P u m p j a c k e a s t o f W i l l i s t o n . The Williston Basin had 12,013 operating wells at the end of 2011, according to a
study by Kadrmas, Lee and Jackson, Inc. released in October 2012. The basin, which includes the Bakken and Three Forks formations, spans 200,000 square miles and extends into parts of Montana, South Dakota and Saskatchewan, Canada. A U.S. Geological Survey report says there may be as many as 7.4 billion barrels of recoverable oil in the Bakken, though a 2012 Harvard Kennedy School study estimates 206 billion, noting that U.S. oil production could eclipse Saudi Arabiaâ€™s by 2020.
A F o r m at i o n
J e ff r e y S t r a n d a n d d a u g h t e r C h y l e r . Williston native and farmer Jeffrey Strand, 35, waits for his wife with daughter Chyler, 4, at the city’s Amtrak station south of downtown. Strand, an electrician on the side in winter, started with Triangle Electric, Inc. in 1998 alongside 15 colleagues. Now, the company often has more than 300 contracted employees during a given week. “You used to know everybody driving by,” Strand said. “Now you just share the road with trucks.” In 2011, Williston’s Amtrak station saw 29,920 boardings. In 2012, that number jumped to 54,324.
A F o r m at i o n
W e s l e y M o r g a n . Morgan, 49, was caught in a water pipe explosion in July 2012, while working as a pipe cleaner for Quail Tools. He lost hearing in his right ear, but his workman’s comp doctor told him it was allergies. When Morgan returned to work, he vomited from vertigo. Quail told him they had to let him go. While waiting for his new workman’s comp claim to go to court the last year, Morgan has been living in his truck, receiving $200 per month in food stamps. His mother, who is on social security back home in Polson, Montana, pays his cell phone bill.
“Sometimes they realize the [oil fields] are a little rougher than they expected. So, they realize it’s easier to go home.”
H o m e l e s s . A man sleeps outside the Salvation
Army Church at 15 Main Street in downtown Williston. Although many workers pull six-figure salaries, and Wal-Mart starting wages are $17 per hour, housing is scarce, and prices are high and rising. The Salvation Army is offering money toward one-way bus and train tickets out of the city for those unable to find housing. “Sometimes they realize the [oil fields] are a little rougher than they expected,” said Captain Joshua Stansbury, who along with his wife Rhegan are pastors and administrators at the Salvation Army’s Williston branch. “So, they realize it’s easier to go home.”
A F o r m at i o n
K y l e H u ff m a n . Originally from Santa Rosa, California, Huffman, 25, arrived in the Bakken in 2011 and found a job on one of the hundreds of construction sites in the area. This April, Huffman was living with his girlfriend in Fairview, Montana. His car had broken down and two friends with a van picked him up and brought him to their lot at the Buffalo Trails R.V. Park on the north end of Williston. The frigid North Dakota winters have taken their toll on his body, Huffman says. “I feel like I’ve aged 10 years.” But he knows the value of hard work. “Dad raised me old school. We’re in the Bakken [and] you gotta get everything yourself. It’s how it is.”
O n Ma y 5 , t h e r e were 618 job openings for t r a c t o r -t r a i l e r drivers, more than any other industry in Williston.
G l e n H o n g . Since 2009,
Hong has driven his 379 Peterbilt oil tanker truck 700 miles from his home in Hamilton, Montana, to Williston, North Dakota, to work. On his three-week shifts, he picks up 220 barrels of crude and deposits them into storage tanks around the Bakken. On May 5, there were 618 job openings for tractor-trailer drivers, more than any other industry in Williston. On one day in 2011, the North Dakota Department of Transportation recorded 2,600 semis on Highway 85 between Williston and nearby Watford City.
A F o r m at i o n
K y l e e Ka r s c h n e r . Karschner, 21, arrived in Williston from Wellsboro, Pennsylvania on January 31. She was hired as a lab technician to collect water samples for a chemical company, but is now a mechanic for medium duty trucks and semis. She pays $1,100 in monthly rent for a 10x10 room in a house with three guys. She says the toughest part about being a woman in the oil patch is finding a good job with good pay. “Around here we’re not treated the same at entry-level positions.” And, she adds, “Don’t be by yourself after dark.” Reported male to female ratios in Williston range from 50-1, to 87-1.
A F o r m at i o n
Williston, April 20, 2013.
The intersection of Main and Broadway in downtown Williston is reminiscent of when the town was founded in 1887, save for the stoplights and major population increase. The 2000 census recorded 12,512 residents, the 2010 census, 14,716. But with temporary workers not registering vehicles or claiming residency, some estimates push those numbers as high as 80,000. This soaring growth has caused widespread increase in crime. From 2009 to 2010, calls to the Williston Police Department increased by 250 percent.
G r a i n e l e v a t o r , r a i l r o a d t a n k c a r . This defunct grain elevator near downtown Williston once held
up to 100,000 bushels of grain, while tank cars can carry 34,500 gallons of crude. Drillers first struck oil in North Dakota on Clarence Iversonâ€™s farm near Tioga on April 4, 1951, spurring the first oil boom in the Bakken. Montana hit oil that July. In the 1980s, oil boomed again. Then in 2004, with developments in hydraulic fracturing, wells began producing black gold in unprecedented amounts: the U.S. Energy Information Administration reports that in January 2013, 673,000 barrels of oil per day were extracted from the Bakken. According to a University of North Dakota study, amounts will peak at 1,200,000 bbl/d in 2022.
A F o r m at i o n
K e n R e d m a n . Redman gazes through his kitchen window in Crane, Montana, between Glendive and Sidney, whose
schools are reportedly bursting at the seams. Redman, 54, grew up farming and ranching in Montana, and has an agriculture degree from Montana State University-Bozeman and a M.A. from Colorado State University, but with a wife and three kids, he had to put food on the table. In agriculture, he says, “You break even if you do well.” In 2005, he became a directional oil driller with Baker Hughes. “The change is going to happen [in Montana]. How can we make it best for us?” The boom is over, Redman adds, indicating that oil-producing areas around the Bakken are seeing sustained growth: The formation could produce oil for the next 40 years.
My grandmother’s homestead
he big blue sky stretched in front of my windshield as I squinted through a graveyard of bugs on the glass. The sage and grass-covered hills looked vaguely familiar. A hodgepodge of clues led me to this spot 24 miles from pavement and 1,086 miles from my Seattle home, alone but for the company of my little brown dog, Maile. Unsure of exactly where I was, I held the old, curling photo against the windshield and scanned the green and brown landscape, hoping to turn the black and white into a real place where people lived and little girls grew up. My grandma, Corma, and her younger sister Lorna were raised in eastern Montana, on a homestead along Pumpkin Creek from 1916 until about 1925. Through the colorful, textured stories she told me, I’ve often felt I might have lived there too. Grandma told of riding horseback to a one-room schoolhouse at age 7, holding the reins while her 5-yearold sister held on behind. She spoke
By Teresa Bruffey
of little girls whose friends included a pet eagle, a dog, a goldfish and the horse; of waiting behind the house late at night for their father to return from his postal route; and of watching their mother beat a fox to death with a broom for sneaking into the henhouse. The homestead was harsh and magical, with few limits, Grandma said. There, little girls grew up tough, smart and graceful among hardworking people who had little extra but always offered a helping hand. When Grandma passed away in the fall of 2011, my world became too silent. The need to find Pumpkin Creek – the one place that always remained crisp in her 97-year-old memory – became unrelenting. She had talked of Miles City, so I knew to look on the eastern side of the 147,000-square-mile state. On the Bureau of Land Management’s online archives, I found the grant issued to my great grandparents: Section 8 Township-2-South Range-48-
East of the Montana Prime Meridian. Then, at Grandma’s memorial, my great aunt Lorna said in a moment of clarity, “Broadus. Our place was 60 miles one way or another from Broadus.” Going through my grandmother’s belongings after she passed away, my mother and I found faded photographs of the sisters as children at Pumpkin Creek, and others of them as young women in polyester pantsuits on a journey from Seattle to see the homestead for the last time in the 1970s. Finding the homestead felt like a way to hold onto her a little longer.
Top: The author compares an old family photograph to the eastern Montana landscape. Right: Corma and her younger sister Lorna on their homestead along Pumpkin Creek. Photos courtesy of Teresa Bruffey
y earlier visits to Montana had been scattered and brief. Even so, it struck me as the kind of place where the right things just happen – those being kindness toward others, connection to the land, and finding your way. So, photos in hand, I pointed my truck east from Seattle and believed. Near twilight, knowing I was getting close but still unsure how to pinpoint my destination, I stopped at a service station in Ashland, off Highway 212. There, I found a map on the wall that showed Montana broken into neat squares. Township 2 was at the top, Range-48-East halfway down its side, Section 8, smack dab in the middle. While the service station didn’t have maps to take, I met an off-duty ranger a couple doors down who offered me one. Studying the patchwork of forest service land and ranchland, I found Grandma’s section some 40 miles northeast of Ashland, accessible via double-track, dirt roads. “Those roads are rough,” the ranger said. “If it rains, don’t drive them – you’ll get stuck. Ask a rancher tomorrow. He’ll know what goes.” Driving out of town, I pitched my tent at the Holiday Campground. As the sun dropped low, I rehearsed what I might say to no-time-forsmall-talk ranchers the next day. These were people who woke up early, brewed coffee and set off at dawn for a long day’s work. Why would they help a strange, city girl? Around 10 a.m. the next morning I pulled into the first ranch. A woman was bent over feeding chickens from a bucket. Geraniums lined the front of the house. I don’t know if I even introduced myself before the words, “Do you know where this is?” tumbled from my mouth, and I found myself holding out the photo.
Bruffey recreates a photograph of her grandmother on the homestead in the 1970s.
“I’m Dolores,” she said. “Would you like some coffee?”
His father, John, was busy reuniting a cow with her misguided calf, he said, then invited me inside. Together, we pored over a mapping program they used to keep track of their acreage and cattle.
Inside, she pulled out annals of local heritage, maps and phone books. She didn’t know exactly how to get to Section 8, but she was sure the family down the way would. A few unanThese were people who swered phone calls woke up early, brewed later, she sent me off coffee and set off at with directions to the Lammis’ house. dawn for a long day’s “Check back if you have any trouble,” she said.
work. Why would they help a strange, city girl?
At the end of a long, dusty drive, I parked by a well-kept ranch house. A pile of puppies bumbled toward me, followed by a young man with tan lines visible under his clean white t-shirt and spurs on his work boots. Introducing himself, Justin told me that Dolores had called, and he was expecting me.
“Dick Gaskill. He’s who you need to talk to,” he said. “He grew up here, he knows everybody, and knows this land.”
John returned and asked about my search, my family, and said wasn’t that amazing I’d come back to find my grandma’s place. Father and son deliberated on how to help. More calls were made, and since Dick didn’t answer, they sent me off with a handshake, a wish of luck and directions.
Dick’s property was quiet – no cows or traffic on the dirt road and no other houses nearby. It was hard not to feel city paranoia someplace so still. A dog barked, and before I could knock, a woman opened the door. She, too, knew I was coming. “Dick should be home in the next 30 minutes for supper,” she said. “He’s out mending fences.” She invited me in and we talked about the local news and who’d been doing what. She offered me tea and asked about my family as if they might’ve been distant kin. She wasn’t from the area but had moved to the ranch after marrying Dick, far from her family and the nearest neighbor. I thought of my great grandmother raising two girls while her husband left for his postal route.
The remains of the Pumpkin Creek homestead.
I showed him the photos. “Do you know this place?” I asked. “I can take ya there right now,” he said.
A tall, broad man with blue jeans and a big hat walked through the door, his personality taking up nearly as much space as his imposing physical size. “Well, I’ll be!” Dick said with a smile, slapping his knee when I told him my story.
Supper still in the oven, we took off from the house, dust plumes rising behind our trucks. Before I could process what was happening, we turned off the road onto a rough track heading straight for an old, dilapidated log structure that mirrored my photos, only with the roofs fallen in. I’d found Pumpkin Creek. Wildflowers bloomed yellow and violet on the surrounding fields. A gentle northeastern wind blew over the ridge, drawing an invisible line from one end of the homestead to the other. I climbed out of my truck and walked through the grass. In the afternoon light, the golden hills above the old buildings glowed like velvet under candlelight. I wanted to absorb every part of the place – the way it smelled and sounded and felt. Had I only ever seen those black and white photos, I wouldn’t have known the soft hues of that rough land: the stubby green pines, the blue-grey cottonwoods along the dry creek bed and the ever-present hum of the crickets. The photo left out the crackle of dried tree branches and the kindness shared between neighbors. Grandma is still gone. I didn’t find her there, as I secretly hoped. But with help from a few friendly strangers, I found an unexpected part of her among the sage and grass at Pumpkin Creek, a place more vibrant and beautiful than I could have imagined.
Anglers float the Yellowstone River, the main Dome Mountain Ranch lodge behind them. Photos by J.B. Klyap
Dome Mountain Ranch • A vital refuge on the Yellowstone River •
By Tyler Allen
essential winter range for the northern Yellowstone elk herd.
The Yellowstone River spills out of the park near its northern entrance in Gardiner, Montana, wending through the Gardiner Basin and tumbling into the gorge of Yankee Jim Canyon four miles downstream. Its tumult slows as it leaves the canyon and courses through a valley named “Paradise.” Bounded by the Absaroka Mountains to the east and Gallatin Range in the west, Paradise Valley provides 46 Mountain
In the southeast corner, at the heart of the herd’s yearly migration from the park, sits the 5,366-acre Dome Mountain Ranch. Its western edge carved by the river, the property spreads eastward into the Absaroka foothills, where it abuts state and federal lands. A hunting and fishing outfitter with 30 head of horses, the ranch has been featured on The Travel Channel, Elk
Country Journal and Cabela’s Outdoor Adventures.
J.B., also a longtime hunter and guide, values “authentic, traditional and fair chase” hunts.
Montana Fish, Wildlife and Parks recognized the area’s significance three decades ago and in 1986 began purchasing adjacent land for the 4,680acre Dome Mountain Wildlife Management Area. The ranch occupies the northern flanks of the pyramid-shaped 8,596-foot Dome Mountain, and the WMA extends northeast to Dailey Lake. The lower reaches of the habitat are home to native grasses, primarily bluebunch wheatgrass and Idaho fescue, interspersed conifer stands, providing forage and cover for lactating cow elk in late spring and early summer. Bulls have lower nutritional needs and inhabit the higher elevations, finding shelter in large stands of lodgepole pine. While the ranch grows hay to feed stock, most of the acreage remains in its natural state. “Dome Mountain Ranch is as heavily used by the elk herd as the [WMA] is,” said Karen Loveless, Livingston Area Montana Fish, Wildlife and Parks Wildlife Biologist. “It’s critical to the herd’s future to have access to that winter range.” With the ranch now for sale, Loveless is uncertain about the future. The northern Yellowstone elk herd’s population has declined from 19,000 in 1994, to the 3,915 counted by a cooperative FWP and National Park Service aerial survey in February 2013. The decline resulted from harvest, predation and environmental factors such as drought, Loveless said. “This year (2013), 77 percent of the herd was in Montana, and it’s been an increasing trend since 2005,” she said.
“It’s pretty easy to book an elk hunt where they take you out on an ATV and drop you off, but we like giving [clients] the whole experience,” he said, explaining that clients mount the horses before first light, spending the entire day on horseback or foot.
Archery hunters ride on public lands above the ranch.
Previously, thousands of elk wintered in the Lamar Valley and Blacktail Plateau in Yellowstone Park. Winter conditions there are harsher than the lower elevation Paradise Valley, Loveless said, and predation by wolves, bears and mountain lions is likely higher in the park. Fred Smith has owned Dome Mountain Ranch since 1996, when he bought four adjoining parcels including the Gray’s cattle operation east of the river. The land he bought from Max Chase on the west side included a lodge built in 1959, and home to a filling station, restaurant, gambling hall and outfitting business over the years. “I looked all over the Rockies for about three years,” said Smith, who lives in Baltimore, Maryland. “I saw Paradise Valley and that was it.” He hired J.B. Klyap and his wife Lennae, former fishing guides on the Smith River, to manage the lodge and cabins, “But one thing led to another,” J.B. recalled. Now the Klyaps take care of ranch operations year round: guiding, haying the fields, tending the horses, and maintaining the lodge, guest cabins, fences and machinery. “It’s not a 9-to-5 job,” J.B. says. “It’s a lifestyle.”
“Positive energy is infectious, and that’s really what made us,” said J.B., who believes hiring honest, hard-working guides is the secret to success. “I always tell guides, ‘If you’re not bleeding, sweating or puking, you’re not hunting elk.’” The 4.5 miles of river fronting Dome Mountain Ranch are home to brown, rainbow and native Yellowstone cutthroat trout. Its abundant natural vegetation creates ideal trout habitat, providing shade that keeps the water cooler. “It’s still what a trout stream should look like,” says Kurt Dehmer, one of the ranch’s guides. High above its east bank, the main ranch house deck faces southwest and overlooks the valley, the broad summit of 10,969-foot Electric Peak dominating the view in the distance. This landscape has been a successful cooperative public-private conservation effort, and Smith is optimistic the ranch will attract an individual or group dedicated to preserving it. “I hope the next owner will not develop the land and keep it as a legacy as long as they’re able to enjoy it,” he said. Tyler Allen is a staff writer for Mountain Outlaw magazine. As of press time, May 2013, Dome Mountain Ranch was listed through Fay Ranches, a real estate firm based in Bozeman, Montana.
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Ghosts in the
Wolverines may be listed as threatened species By Sean Forbes
As difficult as it might be to chase Bigfoot through the woods, searching for Gulo gulo – more commonly known as a wolverine – might actually be a bigger challenge in the higher elevation rock, snow and ice of the Northern Rockies. The picture emerging from a new study – led by Dr. Robert Inman, Director of the Wildlife Conservation Society’s Greater Yellowstone Wolverine Program in Ennis, Montana – paints wolverines as solitary travelers patrolling territories between 300-750 square miles, hunting, scavenging and caching the leftovers in nature’s refrigerator along the way. The first telemetry study of wolverines in the Greater Yellowstone, the decade-long WCS research focused on the Madison Range between the Spanish Peaks and Hebgen Lake, the Gravelly Range, the Centennial Mountains and south into Grand Teton National Park. Capturing 40 animals with the use of about 100 trap sites, Inman was looking for “everything” – their food habits, home range size, habitat use, survival rates, causes of mortality, reproductive rates and den sites. What he found was a portrait of a unique and uncommon creature. “[They’re] basically born wearing snow shoes,” Inman said, explaining that the 20- to 30- pound animals have paws four inches wide and up to six inches long. This allows them to travel efficiently in rugged, mountainous terrain, particularly in deep snow. One study subject known as M304 traveled from Grand Teton to Pocatello, Idaho, and back in a week, and a short time later made the roundtrip to Gardiner, Montana.
PHOTO BY LARRY MASTERS
“We were sitting there at the computer, we open up the map that has the points on there, and our jaws dropped,” Inman said. “It really opened our eyes to, holy cow, these animals are capable of moving incredible distances over short periods of time, especially young dispersing individuals.” The researchers did all the capture work during winter, Inman said, because “if we put baits out in the summer trying to catch wolverines, we’d catch as many bears as anything else.” Yet even during warmer seasons, wolverines, the largest members of the weasel family, remain elusive. “People hardly ever see wolverines even though they’re around. When there [are] five of them in the entire Madison Range, you can begin to see why that’s the case. The odds of running into one are slim to none.” Those odds are largely responsible for the numerous petitions submitted to the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service in the last 19 years seeking protection for wolverines, which in turn have raised the demand for information and prompted studies like Inman’s. The U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service announced on February 1, 2013, that it was seeking feedback on a proposal to protect the wolverine as a threatened species under the Endangered Species Act. The agency received 180,128 public comments on the proposed listing, according to an official at the Montana USFWS Field Station. With Inman’s effort and the listing process wrapping up, biology is supporting the expectation that the animals will be listed – but perhaps not for reasons one would expect.
CAUSE FOR CONCERN Like many other species considered predators around the turn of the 20th century, wolverines were nearly eliminated from the Lower 48 by poisoning practices common at the time. Recovering remarkably well – thanks in part to receiving furbearer status with harvest regulations in 1978 – wolverines again occupy much of their historic terrain in the northern Rockies. Despite population estimates for some of the study’s mountain ranges falling between five and 15 individuals, wolverines have generally survived their conflict with humans. “It’s important to point out that the biology suggests that number is probably the same as it was 500 years ago,” Inman said.
Retrieving a wolverine killed by an avalanche Photo by Forrest McCarthy
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After floundering through chest-deep snow to gather data on animals that can be hard to find even while wearing radio collars, Inman and his co-workers in the WCS study found their most troubling characteristic, given current climate trends, was just how well adapted wolverines are for cold temperatures and snow. Wolverines today inhabit a desolate, delicate niche where heavy snow packs persist well into spring – places like Canada, Alaska, the Cascade Mountains of Washington and Oregon, and the Northern Rockies. Warming temperatures could force the animals into more fierce competition with insects and bacteria for food and also jeopardize their reproduction cycle, in which females deliver one to two kits every other year in a den beneath boulders, logs and a blanket of snow. No one can say for certain what would happen without the protection of winter – for food or young – but an informational page on the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service’s website sums up the issue: “Climate warming over the next century is likely to significantly reduce wolverine habitat, to the point where persistence of wolverines in the contiguous United States, without intervention, is in doubt.”
WHAT’S NEXT? Assuming wolverines will be protected under the U.S. Endangered Species Act, and that the climate will remain a contentious issue, Inman’s work will be essential in helping define what comes next.
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In 2004 and 2008, for example, his work was cited in the creation of management units for the Montana trapping season. “A lot of [our changes have] been based on research, and the
most recent stuff was changed based on his work, in terms of identifying… how many animals and what harvest rates should be,” said Brian Giddings, Montana Fish, Wildlife and Parks Furbearer Coordinator. Federal Endangered Species Act protection would eliminate the trapping season, and MFWP on May 6, 2013 sent a letter to the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service in opposition to the listing. Noting that wolverine populations have expanded over the past 50 years, and that there is no imminent threat, FWP maintained the animals do not meet the criteria for listing under the ESA.
Dr. Robert Inman conducting a telemetry study in the Spanish Peaks Photo by Tony MCCUE
“It’s been the most successful model for reestablishing populations and managing wildlife anywhere in the world,” he said.
The WCS study also suggested other options including continued population monitoring, maintaining connective corridors between higher-elevation habitats, and reintroducing the species to the mountains of Colorado.
Having revived more prominent game such as whitetail deer, black bear and wild turkey, the expansion of that system – to include other gear like tents and packs – could have the same beneficial effect on non-game species.
With the details still to be formed, Inman addressed the issue of funding through the example of the Pittman-Robertson Act – which puts money generated through the sale of firearms and archery equipment into a state coffer designated for conservation projects.
Sean Forbes is a freelance writer based in Bozeman, Montana, where chasing stories only occasionally gets in the way of playing outside. Dr. Robert Inman is continuing to research wolverines, now at the Craighead Institute in Bozeman.
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A n gler - c o n servat i o n i st Cr a i g M athews by Emily Stifler
52 explorebigsky.com CraigMountain fishing the Madison River near his home in the southern Madison Valley
Photo by Max Lowe
A Tenkara setup, pictured here, requires no reel – only a collapsible rod, a line, tippet and a few flies. Designed 600 years ago in Japan by market fishermen in mountain streams, it’s simple, effective and relatively inexpensive, says Craig, whose book on the subject, co-written with Yvon Chouinard, is forthcoming. “[It’s the easiest] way for anyone to master fly fishing… It’s going to be the salvation of fly fishing, get young kids into the sport.” Photo by Max Lowe
As a cop in Grand Haven, Michigan, in the late 1970s, Craig Mathews liked the night shift. “I really enjoyed getting out of a police car, sneaking around, and trying to catch people in the act of burglary,” he recalls of his nine years with the department. “There’s a little bit of a danger buzz there. I fill that now by climbing around in weird places trying to find wild trout and wildlife like elk and mountain goats. I find myself hanging off a cliff quite often in places where I say, ‘you shouldn’t be here.’”
“I don’t know anybody with more knowledge, a finer fly caster, a better fisherman,” said Ken Barrett, Campaign Manager for the Yellowstone Park Foundation Native Fish Conservation Program. “Craig is the consummate professional.” Through their work with environmental nonprofits, river access and wildlife projects in Montana and the Greater Yellowstone over the last three decades, the Mathews have changed the landscape of conservation in the Northern Rockies.
At 64, Craig has thick, silver hair, a disarming smile and a soft, unfettered baritone. Together with his wife Jackie, he owns the renowned fly shop and outfitting business in West Yellowstone, Montana, Blue Ribbon Flies.
They’ve also influenced conservation philosophy worldwide: In 2001, Craig worked with Yvon Chouinard, founder of the Ventura, California-based clothing company Patagonia, to start 1% for the Planet, a nonprofit that’s helped businesses donate more than $100 million to environmental causes.
Just down the road, the Madison River and Yellowstone National Park draw anglers from around the world. Craig, primarily a wade fisherman, has fished these waters for 45 years.
In this partnership, Jackie is behind the scenes, and Craig is the drumbeater. And although not a household name across America, he is an icon among trout fishermen.
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POLICE CHIEF When he wasn’t working the midnight shift, Craig spent winter nights in Michigan tying flies – some for himself, and some for the southwest Montana fishing luminary Bud Lilly, who ran a shop out of West Yellowstone.
view an interview with craig mathews in his shop, blue ribbon flies, at explorebigsky.com/craigmathews
One such evening, Jackie, a police dispatcher, decided she’d had enough. “You know what?” she said. “We’re moving to Yellowstone.”
a mobile home sight unseen, and in early 1979 packed up their daughters, Kelly and Dana, 7 and 2, and moved to Montana planning to stay a year.
Craig had met Lilly during a fishing trip in the early 1970s, and he and Jackie began vacationing in West in fall 1977. Tired of the gray Michigan winters, Jackie picked up the phone and called the West Yellowstone police station.
The police chief retired two weeks later, and Craig took over.
“I thought she was kidding, there’s no way she’s talking to anybody,” Craig recalls. But the head dispatcher hired her on the spot. “It’d have to be a package deal,” Jackie said, and passed the phone to Craig. Two days later they flew into Bozeman, drove to West, interviewed, and Craig got a job as an officer. They bought
“This town was nuts back then, totally wide open,” he says, referring to the aftermath of a July 4 Hells Angels riot in the late 1970s. Since the jail only had three cells, they “chained guys to trees overnight [during summer concerts], so the judge could see them in the morning… We’d have cops feeding them and giving them water all night long.” Jackie tells it a bit differently, having brought prisoners home to feed them. The first year, Craig picked up work as a fishing guide for Lilly. The next, he opened a wholesale fly tying operation, employing disabled fly tiers. In 1982, they bagged wholesale and went retail.
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Craig learned to hunt and fish as a boy at his family’s summer home on Silver Lake, in western Michigan. He caught his first trout on a fly in a small stream called Hunter’s Creek. “I was intrigued with the materials, and with trout – where they live and how to fish for them.” He tied his first fly with a seagull feather. That fascination grew, and through Blue Ribbon, Craig developed dozens of fly patterns and introduced several fly tying materials now popular in the U.S. Walk into the shop, and the first thing you see is a stuffed leopard, which a former Blue Ribbon client shot in Somalia, in 1962. Turn right, and you’ll see the long, glass front counter, where you’ll likely find floor manager Robert “Bucky” McCormick. Above him are a mounted elk and caribou, shot by Jackie and Craig respectively.
B I G S K Y C L A S S I C A L M U S I C F E S T I VA L August 9-11, 2013
Craig and Jackie Mathews have received a number of awards for their environmental work, among them the Protector of Yellowstone Award, the Nature Conservancy Award, the Greater Yellowstone Coalition Business Award, the Federation of Fly Fishers Lee Wulff Award, Fly, Rod and Reel’s Angler of the Year. Photo by Chris Davis
In the back, Jackie stands by the large, freestanding display case lined with bins of flies, taking phone orders, booking trips and ensuring every feather is in a row. In the center of it all is Craig’s fly tying desk, surrounded by 30 years of keepsakes. There, a wooden trout hangs on a ribbon from a Telly Award figurine – Craig has won four for instructional DVDs he narrated and co-produced. Next to them is a bobble head of St. Louis Rams coach Jeff Fisher, a frequent customer. Several of the books Craig has authored and coauthored are displayed, among them Fly Patterns of Yellowstone, volumes 1 and 2, and Western Fly Fishing Strategies.
From this perch, he ties around 12,000 flies a year and greets customers. “[Craig is] a great people person,” says Chouinard, who met Craig at Blue Ribbon about 15 years ago. “The success of his shop is dependent on him being there and talking fishing with his customers.” In addition to Chouinard, Craig is a friend to President Jimmy Carter, former news anchors Tom Brokaw and Dan Rather, and media mogul and environmental tycoon Ted Turner. Craig counts these heavyweights as influences, but also “nearly everybody that walks through that door,” he says, pointing at the entrance to his shop.
Through Blue Ribbon, Craig developed dozens of fly patterns including the Sparkle Dun, X-Caddis and Iris Caddis, Nature Stone Nymphs and Bonefish Bitters. Blue Ribbon also introduced popular fly tying materials to the U.S. like cul de canard (CDC), grouse skins and zelon, and was one of the pioneers of saltwater fly fishing for the elusive permit fish in Mexico and Belize.
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Photo by Chris Davis
As an outfitter, Blue Ribbon employs 16 guides in high summer. “When they walk through the door, I know,” said Craig, who often hires on instinct. “I want guides that are teachers who live and breathe and bleed fly fishing, from the history to the entomology to the fly patterns.” West Yellowstone native Cam Coffin has worked there since 1989. “I wouldn’t have been here that long if I didn’t like it and didn’t like the people I work for,” said Coffin, who guides on the Madison, Gallatin, in Yellowstone and Alaska during the summer, and in Belize and Mexico in winter. “Craig, Jackie, all the guides here are wonderful. It’s like a dysfunctional little family.” Tommy Bradford, a client from North Carolina, says this sense of community sets Blue Ribbon apart. “They remember you as you come back each season and don’t treat you as a tourist, but as one of their own.”
GOOD BUSINESS Fishing and conservation are inextricably woven into the Mathews’ lives. “Conservation is the whole fabric, the whole picture. It’s why we’re here. It’s why Yellowstone [exists],” Craig said. “When you live in this country, particularly in southwest Montana,
Left to right: Craig Mathews, 1% for the Planet CEO Terry Kellogg, Patagonia founder Yvon Chouinard and former NBC Nightly News anchor, Tom Brokaw. Mathews and Chouinard started 1% in 2001, and it has since raised more than $100 million for environmental causes. Here, they celebrate the coalition’s 1,000-member mark in 2009. Photo courtesy of 1% for the Planet
your life becomes the out of doors, wildlife. [For me], it’s wild trout, clean air, clean water. If you’re here just to make a living and suck this place for every penny it’s worth, then you shouldn’t be here.” Blue Ribbon has always given at least 1 percent of its annual sales to grassroots environmental causes. It wasn’t always easy. “When we were going to write the first check, [Jackie] and I were having this huge argument,” he recalled at
Gateway Businesses for the Park
Gateway Businesses for the Park, launched in May, gives businesses near Yellowstone a venue to give back to the park they depend on. “It puts them on the Yellowstone Park team,” said Karen Bates Kress, Executive Director for Yellowstone Park Foundation, the park’s official fundraising partner. Proceeds go to the foundation, which in turn funds strategic initiatives related to visitor experience, wildlife, wilderness, cultural treasures, heritage, future stewards and environmental efforts. forthepark.org
a 1% for the Planet event years later. “She said, ‘We can’t afford it.’ I said, ‘We can’t afford not to.’” As founding board members of the Yellowstone Park Foundation in 1997, the Mathews helped build the organization that is now the park’s official fundraising partner. During their eight years on the board, they were instrumental in fundraising for the new Old Faithful Visitors Center, completed in 2010. Those years also sculpted them. “When I drive into the park and see a successful fishery program, bear study, or the bear ranger program, and I can say, ‘I was part of that,’ it feels good, especially when [our] business is thriving because of it,” Craig said. The Mathews have also served on the Montana Nature Conservancy and Montana Trout Foundation boards,
and currently sit on the Trout Unlimited Stewardship Directors Council. “My grandfather always said you’ve got to give back to whatever helps your success in business,” Craig said. “You give, and then you give more, until it really hurts. That philosophy stuck with me.” Some of their work has been controversial – Jackie, for example, advocated in Washington D.C. against snowmobile use in Yellowstone. “It’s what you do if you really believe in something,” she said. “You make a stand, stick with your guns and you do it.”
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It pays dividends: Blue Ribbon’s sales doubled in the five years after Craig co-founded 1% for the Planet. “The thing that Craig has had from the very beginning is an understanding that the basis of his success in this business – and his family’s – is the resource,” said Barrett, who also hosted the nationally aired hunting and fishing show, Life in the Open. “He is the quintessential angler-conservationist – the best of his generation in the Northern Rockies.”
1% FOR THE PLANET Although Blue Ribbon Flies and Patagonia both gave at least 1 percent to environmental groups for years, the crossover went unnoticed until Craig published an editorial in Blue Ribbon’s 2001 catalogue to enlist others. Chouinard read it, contacted Craig, and together the two fishing buddies crafted an “Earth tax” where members give 1 percent of gross sales to approved environmental causes of their choice. Initially run as an internal Patagonia project, the program grew slowly, particularly in the outdoor industry. In 2005, it became independent and gained 501(c)3 status. A year later, concluding competitors didn’t want to associate with Blue Ribbon and Patagonia, Craig and Chouinard stepped down from the board.
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Membership has since grown from 92 to more than 1,200, raising more than $100 million for 3,000 environmental groups worldwide.
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assuring tributaries supply cool water to the Madison River and spawning habitat for wild trout. Going forward, the Mathews are working with biologists from government agencies and nonprofits to improve wildlife recruitment. The 40-mile drive from the ranch to West Yellowstone runs east along the Madison River, past Quake and Hebgen lakes. The trip, which he makes several days a week, gives Craig a chance to fish those waters at least 150 days a year.
The Mathews in 2001 spearheaded an effort to protect the Three Dollar Bridge fishing access, 10 miles upstream from where this photo was taken on the Madison River. Today, Montana Fish, Wildlife and Parks manages three miles of riverfront there, and 12,000 adjoining acres are part of a conservation easement. Photo by Max Lowe
“The 1% story resonated with me,” said Tenkara USA founder Daniel Galhardo, a member who donates primarily to Trout Unlimited. “I thought it was inspirational, especially as an aspiring young entrepreneur.” Blue Ribbon remains a member, and Craig’s role is now as a cheerleader, “Johnny Apple-seeding the world” through speaking engagements. “He is a compelling speaker who can move others to tears as easily as he himself is moved,” says 1% CEO Terry Kellogg. “At times he is really passionate about the movement that he’s started.” Funding recipients in the Yellowstone region include YPF, the Madison River Foundation, the Big Sky Community Corporation, the Federation of Fly Fishers and the Grand Teton National Park Foundation, among more than 100 others in Montana, Wyoming and Idaho.
COMPASS FOR LIFE In 2012, the Mathews began managing the 28,000-acre Sun Ranch south of Ennis, Montana. Formerly owned by actor Steven Seagal, the ranch runs 1,200 head of cattle and is home to 3,500 wintering elk, a pack of wolves, a wolverine den, trout streams and a westslope cutthroat hatchery. A biannual pronghorn migration has beaten a path across the property at the base of the Madison Range. Craig was the ranch’s outfitter for 11 years, and he and Jackie now live in the neighboring Sun West Ranch development, but neither of them had ranching experience, so it’s been a crash course. Already in place when they came on were a number of conservation and wildlife programs. These include an easement on the southern end of the ranch allowing public access at Papoose Creek, and an agreement with Trout Unlimited
“If there’s an hour here, and I’m sitting at home… I say, ‘by God, I could spend the next 50 minutes on the Madison River.’” Perhaps it’s this river that’s kept him grounded – most likely Jackie, his partner in business, conservation, hunting and fishing, had something to do with it, as well. “They’re the same people they were when you walk into the store that they were 30 years ago,” said Brian Kahn, host of the public radio show Home Ground and former director of the Montana Nature Conservancy. “I think it goes without saying that is a result of personal integrity.” And there’s connection to work. “Maybe I should retire,” Craig said, “but I haven’t found time.” Perhaps he’s fueled by something greater than himself. “Once [conservation] gets into your blood – and it doesn’t take long for a fisherman, as a rule – it steers your ship,” he says, his voice wavering. “It’s your compass for life.”
Emily Stifler is managing editor of Mountain Outlaw magazine.
outdoor sports: biking
Biking Jackson Hole By Kristen Pope
Whether you’re looking for a teeth-rattling downhill ride or a tranquil family outing, the Jackson Hole Valley has something for every biker. Families and beginners can enjoy paved paths and simple cross-country rides, while more adventurous riders can find thrills on downhill and backcountry routes. T.J. Sullivan, Bike Manager at Jackson Hole Sports, recommends Jackson Hole Mountain Resort’s trails as a place for beginners and intermediates to hone their skills and gain confidence for downhill riding before venturing to Teton Pass’s more challenging trails. “Take a lesson at [the resort] first,” Sullivan says. “Work your way up the trails to the bigger jumps. Once Photos Courtesy of JHMR
Ride with care
Keep in mind that bikes are not permitted in wilderness areas. Be aware of property boundaries and heed all signs and regulations, which include yielding to other trail users. For more information on regulations, contact the Bridger-Teton National Forest at (307) 739-5500.
you’re feeling comfortable in the air and descending at a faster pace, [head] to Teton Pass and preferably go with someone who knows the trails.” For advanced riders wanting to head straight to the goods, Teton Freedom Riders President Kevin Kavanagh suggests the downhillonly Lithium Trail off the pass, or the 19-mile Cache-Game-West Game-Ferrins loop for a cross-country challenge. “Biking in Jackson is unbelievable, because we have one of the best, most diversified trail systems in the country,” Kavanagh said. “Trails are an integral part of a sustainable community.” With the area’s abundant wildlife, many bikers choose to carry bear spray, something Gregg Losinski, Regional Conservation Educator for Idaho Fish and Game, recommends.
“If you need bear spray, you’re probably going to need it quickly,” Losinski said, suggesting keeping it somewhere accessible. “We also recommend making noise. The bottom line is that you don’t want to surprise a bear. They could be feeding, sleeping or walking down the trail. If you’re coming down that trail at 20 miles per hour, you can literally crash into a bear.” Bear spray canisters – available at nearly any outdoor shop – can be mounted in a carrier on a bike frame. Bikes and other equipment can also be rented at a number of local shops. Maps and more information on paths and trails are available at friendsofpathways.org/resources. See next page for trail recommendations.
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biking jackson hole Paved paths
A combination of pathways and roads connect Jackson, Wilson and Teton Village, and more are in the works, including a bridge over the Snake River set to be finished by December. Grand Teton National Park offers a popular family-friendly path from Moose to Jenny Lake, and riders of all ages and abilities will enjoy the views from the ride alongside the National Elk Refuge.
Cross-country mountain biking
Both Teton Pass and Jackson Hole Mountain Resort trails saw major upgrades in recent years, including the connector trail at JHMR that links the resort’s two cross country trails making an approximately five-mile loop. JHMR beginners can enjoy the Saratoga Trail, while advanced riders will find technical challenges and jumps on True Grit. On Teton Pass, the recently constructed Phillips Ridge and Arrow Trails are popular options.
Downhill and lift-accessed riding
JHMR offers lessons for beginners and intermediates on both cross-country and lift-accessed downhill trails. For advanced riders, there is plenty of adrenaline to be found here, or on Teton Pass with trails such as Lithium, Fuzzy Bunny and Jimmy’s Mom, which offer technical terrain, big jumps and gaps.
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Just outside of town, the Cache Creek area has backcountry riding for all abilities. The Cache Creek Sidewalk Trail to the Putt Putt Trail is perfect for beginners, while intermediate riders can link Putt Putt to the Hagen Trail. Looking for a longer ride? Head up the Cache Creek Sidewalk Trail to the Cache Creek Trail, and then around the backside of Snow King to Game Creek, coming out south of town on Highway 89. Be aware that the Cache Creek Trail enters the Gros Ventre Wilderness at mile six, and bikes are not allowed beyond that point.
outdoor sports: biking
Blood, sweat and smiles
Cyclocross racers, often costumed, move through a maze of obstacles for 45-60 minutes, often in variable conditions. Pictured here are scenes from the October, 2012 Mulecross at the Gallatin County Fairgrounds in Bozeman, Montana. Photos by Joris Van Cutsem
By Chris Davis
This style of riding has seen an upswing in the U.S. in the last two Love mud, furious pedaling and a decades, in part because the season good time? Cyclocross might be for takes place in fall and winter, the offyou. season for traditional bike racing. It’s also thanks to Racers must navigate an the fun-loving, energetic Regional races off-road track, frequently community surrounding and events shouldering their bikes the sport. MONTANA to run up steep slopes or Rolling Thunder, jump hurdles, and then Competitors tend to Missoula, Oct 19-20 quickly remount until have a sense of humor Wednesday night the next obstacle. about the difficulties of cyclocross race the obstacles, and you’ll series, Bozeman & Missoula, Sept-Oct “You’re down in the often see them clad in silly trenches and the mud’s costumes. Last Chance CX, Helena, Oct 6 flying and the tires are Hot Cheetos and Taki in your face,” said Ryan Already popular in MisCross, Bozeman, Hamilton, a rider with soula, the sport is growing Oct 26-27 Team Rockford in Bozearound the Northern RockMSU Cross Weekend, man, Montana. ies. Bozeman, which has Bozeman, Nov 2-3 four courses, is one of the Herron CX Weekend, Cyclocross frames look fastest growing cyclocross Kalispell, Nov 9-10 similar to road bikes, markets. Case in point: IDAHO but are built to take on Team Rockford riders has Moosecross, Victor, sloppy conditions, with one of the highest participaOct. 12-13 their wider, knobby tires, tion levels in the country Bear Lake Monster cantilevered brakes and with its sponsor, Giant, for Cross, Montpelier, June 29 stronger construction. a team of its size, according Plenty of people use to Hamilton. mountain or road bikes, and either way, Hamilton says, you’re The Wednesday night training races in set up for success. Bozeman, open to anyone, are growing
in popularity, said Tom Owen, owner of Gallatin Alpine Sports in Big Sky and co-founder of the GAS/Intrinsik bike team which hosts the public rides. Getting started is easy, said Owen, who recommends building your base miles this summer, and when the trails get muddy and the roads icy, seeking out a cyclocross club and keeping those wheels spinning. Find more: montanacycling.net, idahocyclocross.com, usacycling.org
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outdoor sports: biking
GRAVITY Q+A with extreme mountain biker Mike Kinrade
By Emily Stifler Mike Kinrade rides his bike down mountain faces like he’s creating a piece of artwork. Watch a clip on YouTube, and you’ll see the Nelson, British Columbia native charging down a 40-degree slope at 30 miles an hour, arcing fluid turns and taking air as if on snow.
But it’s not only an artform: With time spent scoping potential lines, this type of riding is a finely tuned combination of risk, physics, athleticism and intuition. “You’re literally dropping into the unknown,” says Kinrade, 32. “You don’t know how the dirt and ground will react to your tires or braking, or how to corner in it. It’s not like snow where it’s a consistent texture – every 10 feet is different, and you have to adapt quickly. “Once you’ve ridden a line and get into the zone though, it’s a lot more free and fluid.” Riding 150-200 days a year, Kinrade describes his downhill bike – an Evil Bikes Undead with Manitou suspension – as an extension of his body. While many of his favorite big lines are in British Columbia, others, like those featured in the Redbull Media House-sponsored film, Where the Trail Ends, were first descents in far-off places like the Salta Province of Argentina. After more than 15 years in the bike scene, Kinrade sees himself as an ambassador for the sport. “I’ve started rediscovering what it’s about, what I’m stoked on and what keeps me coming back. For me it’s more about getting out riding with friends. I like to promote that part of the sport.”
Mike Kinrade riding outside of Nelson, British Columbia Photos by Nick Diamond
What was your first bike?
When I was 14, I got a Nishiki Expedition two sizes too big. It was black with purple paint splashed on it, and purple bar ends and toe clips – the ugliest bike ever. Mountain biking was new in Nelson, and the trails were super bumpy and rowdy.
Tell me about your family.
My dad’s a Kootenay boy, and my mom’s originally from Ontario. One of my brothers is a hockey player in Switzerland, and the other is an engineer in Vancouver. We’re very different: the hockey jock, the quiet nerdy engineer, and me, the black sheep.
Describe your sport.
I love looking for new places to ride, going for first descents of peaks.
How did you get into that?
Byron Grey and Darren Butler showed me these big mountain lines in Invermere 12 years ago, and I was like, ‘What the f*** are you guys talking about?’ Watching Darren ride, I knew this was the future.
What do you like about it?
I love the lifestyle. It’s in the mountains, with friends. I love ripping through the rowdiest, roughest terrain, doing [30 miles an hour]
where you wouldn’t feel comfortable walking. It’s exhilarating to go where a mountain bike has never touched the ground and be the first to do it.
How do you train?
I ride as much as possible, and I work out. My personal trainer, a paraplegic [paralyzed in a biking accident] runs a militia-style program called Sasquatch Performance Training. You’re not allowed to talk, ask questions or stop. Basically, he tries to kill you. It’s the same way on a bike: You get on and hammer, and every element is trying to kill you.
Tell me about your crash at the Red Bull Rampage.
A gust of wind blew me back on my bike, and I cased a jump. As I flipped over, my head hit the ground and I knocked myself out... It wasn’t actually that bad. I train to learn how to fall and come back from injuries. The biggest thing that sucks is it takes time off your bike.
Who inspires you?
My grandfather was an old mountain man who moved from Ontario and fell in love with the mountains. He taught me to respect nature and life. He’s been my biggest influence.
As far as riding goes, Dylan Tremblay. We grew up together, and he got me into biking when I was 14. [Later], he would just show up at cross-country races with his glasses on and his shoes untied and win. He was a freak, basically.
I’ve heard you’re planning a mountain biking event at Baldface Lodge, outside of Nelson. It’ll be something like the Red Bull Ultra Natural or the Rampage – a 2,500-vertical foot, gnarly freestyle backcountry competition. It would be next summer or the year after.
How would you describe risk?
Risk is getting out of your comfort zone, [and whether you’re ready to deal with it]. Over time, you can tolerate more. The more confident you are, the more you minimize it.
What is your relationship with gravity? It’s a constant fight and struggle, a lovehate relationship. Sometimes it schools you. [Downhill mountain biking is] like sailing with gravity – except there’s only one direction, so you just have to change the angles.
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The true meani n g of th i s fa mo u s Haw ai i an ter m i s â€œin the presence of li feâ€?
By Eric Ladd | photos by aaron feinberg
When you visit Kauai, you feel the ‘Aloha’ spirit in many ways. Located on the northern end of the Hawaiian chain, Kauai is 562 square miles and geologically the oldest island. Often referred to as the “garden isle,” it’s blessed with ample fresh water and is truly an island getaway. With diverse natural resources, Kauai is known for its spiritual nature, lush jungles, the stunning Na Pali coastline and nearby Kalalau Valley overlook. Ancient Taro plant fields dot the landscape, and romantic Hanalei Bay Beach is one of the world’s most beautiful. Accommodations range from well-organized campgrounds to pampered spa resorts overlooking the ocean. The island’s various adventures are also suited for a range of interests, from families exploring the ocean with dolphins, to adrenaline junkies surfing Kauai’s legendary North Shore breaks.
escape: kauai Ke’e Beach/ Kalalau Trailhead
HawaiiAn Islands Hanalai Bay
Na pali Coast 11 mi.
St. Regis Princeville The Dolphin
Kawaikini (Elevation: 5,243’)
kalaheo yoga tortilla republic
Where to eat
North Shore - The Dolphin The Dolphin in Hanalei is a fish market, restaurant and sushi lounge. Couple a teriyaki-glazed tuna steak with a Coconut Porter from the Maui Brewing Company. hanaleidolphin.com South Shore – Red Salt Red Salt, a quaint restaurant in Koa Kea Resort, serves up massive six-ounce martinis, sushi and mushroom bisque. koakea.com/dining-at-red-salt Fish tacos – Island Taco Island Taco in Waimea is a must-stop locals’ favorite. Grab a drink from the smoothie stand across the street and pair it with a Seared Wasabi Ahi Taco for mid-day meal perfection. islandfishtaco.com
Good for the soul North Shore: Yoga Hanalei Multiple classes are offered daily; the smell of fresh-roasted coffee surrounds the studio. yogahanalei.com South Shore: Kalaheo Yoga Look for a class led by Paul Reynolds in this well-appointed studio. kalaheoyoga.com
Hip - Tortilla Republic With locations in Poipu, Kauai and Hollywood, California, this fast-moving establishment features guacamole made fresh at your table, an extensive margarita list and live house music. tortillarepublic.com
A lesson in ethnic geopolitics
Which is it? Hawaii or Hawai’i? According to the United States Board of Geographic Names, the official U.S. state name is Hawaii, whereas the “Big Island” is Hawai‘i. USBGN also states the collective islands are known as the Hawai‘ian Islands. The ‘Okina is a letter in the Hawaiian alphabet, wherein the speaker reads “Hawai‘i” with an airflow restriction in the vocal tract. Many Hawaiian locals prefer “Hawai‘i” as a form of nationalism and a way to emphasize their traditional culture. - J.O.
3 ways to explore kauai Above: Moonrise over Kalalau Beach. Below: Polihale Beach, located further south on the Na Pali coastline.
Backpacking the Na Pali Coast
Spanning 15 miles and protecting 6,175 acres of isolated, roadless wilderness, the Na Pali coastline is a treasured stop for any visitor to Kauai. As you explore the narrow, winding roads of the North Shore, you’ll end up at Ke’e Beach, which is where the Kalalau Trail begins. Known as one of the most arduous and scenic hikes in the world, the 11-mile trail is a backpacker’s dream. Farmers and fishermen first settled this region in 1200 A.D. The dramatic setting is home to the largest valley on the North Shore, Kalalau Valley. While many choose to see the Na Pali Coast via helicopter or boat tour, hiking the Kalalau Trail is a journal-worthy adventure. A solid day, or a civilized two-day journey, this challenging hike is filled with stream crossings; narrow, slick trails; sheer drop-offs and scenic ocean views. The trip takes most hikers an average of five to eight hours each way. While regulated, the trail has become popular – be prepared for a mini-Woodstock style campground at Kalalau Beach, fronted by a mile-long strip of pearl white sand. If you have more time, worthy side activities include hikes to hidden waterfalls and lush jungle pools, bartering with local Kalalau dwellers, and cribbage on the beach. Tips : Pack light, bring plenty of water, be prepared to guard yourself from the sun and rain, and take extra time to stop and cherish this journey. Treat all drinking water, bring a deck of cards and get ready to see the best sunset of your life. After mile two, the crowds subside and you’ll have the trail to yourself. Rumor has it you can pay locals to shuttle your gear to the beach via boat. Must-bring gear: Sarong and hiking poles
Sunset at Hanalei Bay
Pampered at the St. Regis Princeville
Blessed daily with the last sunset in the United States, the St. Regis overlooking Hanalei Bay is arguably one of the finest luxury resorts in the world. With a 93 percent return ratio for employees, and guests arriving from around the globe, this is a special place. Its motto: “Anticipating your expectations.” Every sunset, St. Regis Butler, Kaleo Guerrero, sabres a bottle of champagne on the resort patio, sharing tales of native Hawaiians in Hanalei and the area’s mystical nature.
The St. Regis Princeville boasts 51 suites with butler service and a cleaning station for hiking boots in the lobby entrance. Sophisticated, yet at home with the laid-back North Shore vibe, its amenities include poolside service, a private, quiet beach and a valet team that helps make the stay at St. Regis both refined and memorable. You’ll plan to go back. Tip : Get a taro butter couples massage in 10,000 sq/ft St. Regis Spa stregisprinceville.com
A view from the lobby and a romantic cabana dinner at St. Regis Photos courtesy of St. Regis Princeville
St. Regis Spa A deep breath…
(A female guest’s account)
Upon arrival, I toured the spa, which included a steam room, sauna, five-point shower and relaxation rooms, all while sipping coconut cream tea. Later that day, we had a couple’s massage. The masseuses were thorough, asking detailed questions about our health and massage preferences. Aromas filled the room, and hot stones were placed in all the right locations. Sixty minutes later, my breathing had slowed, and my mind was clear and focused.
The St. Regis Spa lounge
Sushi and a martini from the St. Regis lounge was a lovely ending to an incredible experience.
3 Exploring the South Shore
from Koa Kea
Along the bustling South Shore near the town of Poipu lies a tranquil oasis, Koa Kea. Recently rebuilt after being leveled in the 1992 hurricane Iniki, this small resort has a swank, yet minimalistic style, many of its 121 rooms with intimate oceanfront decks. A quiet pool courtyard in the heart of the resort offers guests an exquisite private setting. Highlights include in-room Nespresso machines, clean, modern décor, quiet, clamshell shaped beaches, calm swimming waters and direct access to some of the best beginner surf. The resort is ideally located near trails, golf, parks and other attractions. Translated, Koa Kea means “white coral” – a perfect match for the style, look and location of the luxury oceanfront resort. Tip: Visit the gift shop for jars of Hawaiian-made red salt as a gift to bring home. koakea.com
“Bamboo Altar” photo by Aaron Feinberg
Aaron Feinberg Photography You can almost feel the Earth rotating in Aaron Feinberg’s photographs. “I try to connect the viewer to what I see,” says the self-taught artist. He captures this in the ephemeral drama of a breaking wave, in Kauai’s beaches and starry nights, and in his fine art nudes. Since moving to the island for a restaurant job in 2007 after three winters ski bumming in Alta, Utah, and taking on photography full time in 2009, Feinberg has won accolades from National Geographic and American Photo Magazine, among others. A Long Island, New York-native, he loves the rural nature of Kauai. “On the North Shore, where I live, the bar closes at 10 p.m. and the closest movie theater is 45 minutes away. But open up my front door, and you have one of the craziest views in the world.” – E.S.
Koa Kea Resort Hotel at Poipu Beach Photo courtesy of Koa Kea Resort
See more of Feinberg’s work at expandingvisualreality.com, or at his galleries in Hanalei, Poipu and Princeville, Kauai.
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By Megan Paulson
It’s addicting. The music intensifies, makes you wait, and crescendos, building so much anticipation that the only thing to do once the beat drops is explode with joy – jumping, pumping hands into the air, filled with elation among a crowd of mostly strangers. Electronic dance music, or EDM, has captured the music industry in America and around the world. This is the era of instant. Compared to the underground scene of the ‘70s, ‘80s and ‘90s, today’s EDM is more accessible. It’s immediate. It spreads like wildfire.
Not-to-miss EDM festivals:
Ultra Music festival – Miami, FL Electric Daisy Carnival – Las Vegas, NV Electric Zoo – New York, NY Coachella – Indio, CA Paradiso Festival – George, WA Shambhala – Salmo, British Columbia, Canada Tomorrowland – Boom, Belgium Sensation Innerspace – Amsterdam, Netherlands Top club pick: Privilege Ibiza, Spain
From techno, house and trance, to dubstep, trap and hundreds of other sub categories, EDM is a vast genre of music with one uniting factor. EDM breeds energy: in the fans, in the crowd and in each buildup and melodic release. At live shows, lights, lasers and visual stimulants hit you from every angle. And then there’s the beat. It’s an intensity that builds within, and thrives. Top DJs pack clubs around the world night after night in places like Ibiza, Spain, Rio de Janeiro, Brazil and Las Vegas. Selling out festivals of 300,000-plus people, these artists pull in more than $75,000 per hour and up to $250,000 for a night’s work, jetting off on multi-continent tours and performing 150 gigs a year. This is a fast-paced and quickly evolving industry, and one that has seemingly trumped traditional record sales with the urgency and convenience of digital demand. Overhead is minimal compared to traveling with a big crew – the DJ can get to a sold-out venue with only a plane ticket and a computer in hand. Technology has created a low cost, convenient way to record quality music as easily in a hotel room as in a state-of-the-art studio. Many DJs craft new songs or sets while flying to the next gig. Another game-changer is the ethic of sharing music and free downloads, and encouraging re-mixing or mashups of songs. A collaboration of sound and sensation, EDM is at the height of its powers. >>>
POWER IN THE MUSIC Lazers illuminate the Deep House Tent at HARDFest 2012, in Los Angeles. PHOTO BY MEGAN PAULSON
DJ Z-Tripp performed at the Chamberlin Rail Jam at Big Sky Resort in March 2013. The two-day festival attracted more than 2,500 attendees and athletes. PHOTO BY JOSEPH T. O’CONNOR
Turntable.fm founder Seth Goldstein founded DJZ.com in 2012, creating a dedicated place for professional DJs and fans to connect on everything EDM: news, shows, festivals, tours, apps, DJ beta and more. DJZ.com even seamlessly taps SoundCloud for the DJ mixes it shares with readers.
For interactive mixing fun, download DJZ apps:
DJZtxt – a messaging app that turns emojis into sounds Crossfader – an intuitive music experience that lets you DJ by dancing Watch the DJZ, EDM experience at HardFest Day of the Dead festival in LA: explorebigsky.com/djz
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Paths connecting to the landscape Big Sky’s West Fork Camp The year is 1805. As a scout with the Lewis and Clark expedition, you’ve just entered Montana. It’s June, so the expedition has to hunt elk and bear in the high country, near timberline. Meriwether Lewis sends you ahead, up a canyon draw to scout a summer camp. After hiking for three hours, you stop to rest in a flat clearing. An aspen grove beside a pond catches your eye. In 195 years, this plot will hold one of the finest estates developed in southwest Montana and one of the first in the Yellowstone Club – West Fork Camp. Architect Larry Pearson and current owner Greg LeMond, the three-time Tour de France winner, found this 17.04-acreage off Sandstone Road in 1999. They knew right away it was the club’s quintessential property. It had it all – flat ground, stunning views, trout ponds and clear water.
Architect Larry Pearson designed the West Fork Camp fire tower, which doubles as a living space, to replicate the Forest Service towers used to spot wildfires. More than 100 tons of regional schist ledgestone from Harlowton, Montana, 150 miles northeast, were used in this and the adjacent guest cabin. Photos by jake campos
“This was a discovery,” says Pearson, who has since designed more than 50 properties at the Y.C. “We were pioneers when we found this level meadow in the mountains. [West Fork Camp] is the most unique site at the club. It’s livable and intuitive.” This is Montana.
Below: A birdseye view of the camp looking south-southwest. Counterclockwise from left are the vehicle barn, main cabin and trapper’s cabin. The 17.04-acre property has three stocked trout ponds. Photo by Larry Pearson
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“We were pioneers when we found this level meadow in the mountains. [West Fork Camp] is the most unique site at the club. It’s livable and intuitive.”
Stands of lodgepole pine reach straight and tall and paths connect cabins and trout ponds, drawing you into the landscape. Pioneer Mountain at 9,859 feet rises stolid above the treetops. West Fork Camp, built by Yellowstone Traditions, contains three cabins, two outbuildings and a stone fire tower designed with historic Western wildfire lookouts in mind. Even with vast acreage, the camp has a sense of intimacy. “What’s most interesting is the experience you get between the structures,” Pearson says. “It forces you to appreciate nature as you walk between the buildings, and to explore this pristine environment.”
Above: The main cabin’s living room, seen from the kitchen. The hand-stacked fireplace was built with the same native schist as the fire tower and guest cabin.
Paths connect the main cabin, an Right: This stable-style door and handauthentic and refined log home, forged handle access the fire tower’s lower suite. The wrap-around deck upstairs offers with the simple, 1800s-style show-stopping views of 9,859-foot Pioneer trappers cabin set low to the Mountain. Photos by Jake Campos earth beside the western-most pond. They meander south to a bedroom; its wrap-around gathering hall designed as a center for deck providing unobstructed views family events and finally to the guest of Pioneer. cabin, vehicle barn and fire tower. Pearson designed the guest cabin using two historic log structures from Ted Turner’s Flying D Ranch. A historic architectural style known as a “dogtrot,” links the cabins with a continuous roofline. The fire tower doubles as another living space, with three bunk beds and a downstairs
The structures are all comprised of local and regional stone and reclaimed lumber, their designs simple, traditional and exceptional. Pearson’s pioneering designs are evident everywhere on the property. Approaching the main cabin, the details lead your eye up the
dry-stack native schist on the near northwest corner, and across the custom milled logwork. A hand-forged, wrought iron “rat-tail” lever on the front door exemplifies traditional craftsmanship from “the most skilled artisans in Montana,” Pearson says. Stepping into the main cabin is like seeing an old friend, he says. A handstacked stone fireplace stands in the
West Fork Camp Stats big sky, montana
• • • • • •
17 acres 4 cabins 2 barns 3 ponds with fish room to build main gathering lodge access to private club
The trapper’s cabin, beneath its traditional low-angle roof, peers out over a trout pond in West Fork Camp. The main cabin looks on from the northwest.
center, and the rest of the 1,800 heated-square-foot building seems to grow around it. Hand-hewn wood and wrought iron accents lend character and warmth.
“We interpreted the past and created a new paradigm with the West Fork Camp,” Pearson says. “There’s a sense that you’re participating in something bigger.”
Pearson’s design allows one to be a part of West Fork Camp, and part of Montana. It immerses observers in the landscape. From the trapper’s cabin tucked into the hillside to strolling the paths between the structures and along the ponds, one is connected to the estate.
Editor’s note: As of May 2013, West Fork Camp was listed for sale through L&K Realty in Big Sky. For more information visit lkrealestate.com or call (406) 995-2404.
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View a video of West Fork Camp at explorebigsky.com/westforkcamp
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dog geared GEAR
Mountain Outlaw’s four-legged gear testers review their favorite products.
gunner black betty
Breed: Black lab/German short hair pointer mix Age: 3 years old Born in Big Sky, Montana, and the daughter of two champion hunting dogs, I was bred to run and hunt. I spend winter Nordic and alpine skiing and summer whitewater rafting, all in preparation for fall bird season. I’m not a fan of porcupines, skunks or moose, finding them a nuisance. My stepbrother Cedar, who’s 14, has shown me the ropes on dealing with bears and finding the best swimming holes on the Gallatin River.
Gear: Cabela’s Ripstop Chest Protector; Ruffwear K-9 Float Coat (1) My hunter’s orange chest protector vest ($40) keeps me safe in bird season, and the comfy K-9 Float Coat ($80) keeps me above the rapids. cabelas.com, ruffwear.com Food: GO! dog food (2), Dee-o-Gee’s homemade treats (3) GO! Fit + Free dog food (starting at $53) is a grain free mix of turkey, chicken and salmon proteins with essential Omega oils that help keep my mind and vision sharp. Dee-o-Gee’s all natural treats, hand-rolled and cut in the Bozeman store, are made without salt, sugar or preservatives ($5). I particularly like the Peanut Butter and Pumpkin flavor, with flour from Wheat Montana and local eggs. petcurean.com, dee-o-gee.com Advice to other dogs: Get pet insurance and don’t overheat in the summer. I suggest the Ruffwear Swamp Cooler vest (4) for long hikes – it’s the best way for a black betty like me to keep cool. ($55)
Black Betty using her Ruffwear K-9 Float Coat on the Middle Fork of the Salmon River, Idaho. Photo by Eric Ladd
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Gunner sports Ruffwear’s Palisades pack on a hike in Beehive Basin Photo by Chris Davis
GUNNER Breed: Curly tail mutt (some sort of shepherd/collie/Basenji mix) Age: A-few-thousand-naps-in-the-sun-old I’m well-traveled and ruff’ined. My human picked me up in Chicago, and we moved to Montana a couple years ago. This is paradise. I know how to coerce treats from a human, and one inalienable truth: If you throw it, I’ll chase it. Toy: West Paw Design Zisc Glow Frisbee (1) Like I said, if you throw it, I’ll chase it. I’m also unlikely to return it right away. In fact, I may just sit in the shade and chew on it, which is why I’ll wag to the Zisc Glow Frisbee – I can’t rip it apart, and it always flies true. westpawdesign.com $12
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Gear: Ruffwear Palisades Pack (2), Slackline Leash (3) Ruffwear’s Palisades Pack ($130) lets me carry my own food, water and waste, making me part of the team. The pack is comfortable and secure – so much so that when I can’t navigate a narrow spot, my human grabs the harness handle and lifts me through. The Slackline Leash ($40) keeps me attached at the hip to my human. Since it’s adjustable, I’m always at his heels or a step behind on a run. Treat: YaffBar (4) I sit and stay when my human reaches for a YaffBar. This is world’s first energy bar designed for humans and dogs to share. My favorite flavor is honey almond cranberry. (six for $18) muddandwyeth.com
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Acupuncture for animals
By Jenny Ladd
Throughout its 5,000-year history, acupuncture has had many applications – from human medicine to therapy for Emperors’ horses. A Chinese medical practice, it promotes natural healing through insertion of needles and application of heat or electrical stimulation at precise points. Because the Chinese never desecrated a body for science, they developed the meridians and points empirically, refining the practice through observation and treatment. (2)
diva Breed: Pound puppy perfect (border collie mix) Age: 98 dog years/14 calendar years One lifetime isn’t enough – I could snowboard, run, surf Lake Superior, chase moose, hike through wildflowers and float the river forever. I live comfortably at the base of Lone Mountain and lately enjoy a good nap as much as anything. Snacking on carrots is the secret to my youthful appearance, and keeping my puppyhood ball with me helps whenever things get rough (like fireworks. I hate fireworks). Health treatment: Acupuncture Every dog should go to the spa for this relaxing and revitalizing therapy – it
makes me feel like a prettier version of Wonder Dog and lets me relive my days jumping creeks and sprinting after squirrels. $53-83 360petmedical.com Indulgence: West Paw Heyday Bed (1) After 98 years of strenuous activity, a cozy bed is a must. I keep the Heyday ($59) in the car so I can curl up after muddy hikes. Made from recycled materials, the super soft microsuede stays nice and clean. Treat: Zuke’s Organic Hip Action (2) With glucosamine and chondroiton, Zukes ($9) help keep me feeling like I’m in my 50s. Beef flavor is my favorite – it pairs nicely with carrots. zukes.com
The theory behind it is that pain is stagnation of chi, or energy, in the meridians; furthermore, an excess or deficiency of yin or yang causes disease. Yin and yang are opposite but balancing aspects of any living entity, and acupuncture is meant to balance the body by strengthening or removing these excesses. Modern science has found many of the acupuncture points are located at nerve roots, along nutrient passageways and on peripheral nerves, and the treatment causes the body to release serotonin and other compounds that reduce pain and inflammation. Veterinary acupuncture can help with intervertebral disk disease, osteoarthritis, endocrine disturbances and promote healing. Although it should not replace traditional veterinary medicine, using it as an adjunct therapy can slow disease progression and reduce or eliminate the need for medications.
Jenny Ladd is a fourth year veterinary student at Oklahoma State University, and a certified veterinary acupuncturist living in Stillwater, Oklahoma.
Horny Toad Swifty Pocket Hoodie You’ll put the Swifty hoodie on and won’t want to take it off... for days. Work in it, climb in it, bbq in it, sleep in it, put your ipod in the pocket and go hiking, repeat. Soft and stretchy, it’s a bit sheer, so wear a cami underneath. $75 hornytoad.com
Smartwool Ferndale Skirt Split wood, cover up while you change into a swimsuit, take a midnight mission into the hills… Superwoman should have worn this skirt. $100 smartwool.com
Patagonia Black Hole Duffel Waterproof, rough and tumble, these bags have been to their namesake in Argentine Patagonia (120 L, by tent) and down the Grand Canyon (45 L, in truck). The U-shaped lid allows easy access to your gypsy closet; a big, external pocket and two internal mesh pockets keep your essentials separated. $99-160 patagonia.com
The Outlaw crew hardly working on the banks of the Madison River, Montana. Photo by Chris Davis
Sea to Summit Kitchenware Made from BPA-free, food grade nylon, the Delta Spoon and Spork weigh in at .5 oz each. The built-in serrated knife will saw through veggies, but not your hand. The curvature matches the Delta Bowl ($7), helping you get every last bite of mac and cheese. $3.50 each seatosummit.com
Stanley eCycle flask Stanley’s 8 oz. eCycle flask is leak-proof, with a two-stage lid that allows thorough cleaning. Made from recycled and recyclable materials, with a lifetime warranty. Available in fall 2013. $20 stanley-pmi.com
Bergans of Norway Humle Jacket: It doesn’t take long to warm up to the Humle. The brushed fleece interior is cozy when it’s cold and the soft wool/polyester blend breathes well, keeping you comfortable when the temp rises. Generous torso and sleeve length prevents drafts. Bonus: thumb loops, hood and stylish stripes. bergans.no $189
Coleman PerfectFlow Instastart Grill Stove Grilled elk burgers, stat. Easy to clean, packable bbq. $99 coleman.com
Big Agnes Betty SL 27 sleeping bag, Insulated Q-Core sleeping pad Stash this durable sleeping bag in your truck, and sleep easy on unexpected adventures. Made from PinnecoCor synthetic insulation, the Betty ($189-99) dries quickly and is rated to 20 degrees. The insulated Q-Core sleeping pad’s alternating I-Beams evenly distribute your weight and keep you cradled in the center. At 3.5” thick, the pad rolls up to 5 x 9.5.” Non-self inflating. (Starting at $119.95) bigagnes.com
Carhartts The toughest work pants ever made. $40. carhartt.com
The Grocer This reusable bag has a foursided internal folding frame that eliminates spills. Doubles as a backpack. $25 adkpackworks.com
Yeti Tundra Cooler Ice cold and grizzly proof. $360 yeticoolers.com
Smartwool PhD Teller Jacket With a nylon shell, ultra-thin merino wool lining and sculpted side panels, the PhD Teller has a doctorate in utility. Plus, it takes up less room in your pack than a big sandwich. Move over hoagies. $160
Mammut Ultimate Light Jacket Mammut’s Ultimate Light Jacket is just that – the ultimate layer for cool summer nights. This threelayer Gore Windstopper shell is breathable while jogging or tossing dries at rising cutthroat. $199 mammut.ch
Cabela’s Zero G Padded Chaise Lounger Get serious about relaxing. $80-95 cabelas.com
Alite Designs Mayfly chair The Mayfly is small enough to toss in your car and forget about until it’s time to chill, and light enough to bring to the crag for indulgent belays. The low-slung design is high on comfort, but don’t pitch the directions until you’ve dialed the set up; it takes a couple tries to master. $100 alitedesigns.com
Goal Zero Extreme 350 Kit Don’t leave your laptop, music, phone or refrigerator at home. The Extreme 350 Explorer Kit “is like taking your wall plug with you,” said Kaysi MacDonald of Goal Zero. The power pack charges a laptop in 2-4 hours and the weather-resistant, solar technology leaves a miniscule carbon footprint in the process. Drawbacks? It weighs 25 pounds and hums while powered on. $369 goalzero.com
KEEN Tunari CNX shoes At 9.9 oz., these kicks are ultralightweight, surprisingly tough, and so comfortable. Equipped with metatarsal ridges, contoured arches, and rubber soles, they’re supportive, and grip like off-road tires on muddy trails. $110 keenfootwear.com
Also pictured: Ruffwear Quencher Cinch Top dog bowl $20 ruffwear.com Macbook Pro laptop starting at $1,199 apple.com Kletterwerks Kurier $299 kletterwerks.com Sanuk Torrey boots $90 sanuk.com Pelican 1500 Case $100 pelican.com
Lone Peak 11,253 ft.
For more information on this property and other Big Sky, Montana properties visit prumt.com. An independently owned and operated broker member of BRER Affiliates, Inc. Prudential, the Prudential logo and Rock symbol are service marks of Prudential Financial, Inc. and its related entities, registered in many jurisdictions worldwide. Used under license with no other affiliation of Prudential. Equal Housing Opportunity. All information contained herein is derived from sources deemed reliable; however, is not guaranteed by Prudential Montana Real Estate, Managing Broker, Agents or Sellers. Offering is subject to error, omissions, prior sales, price change or withdrawal without notice and approval of purchase by Seller. We urge independent verification of each and every item submitted, to the satisfaction of any prospective purchaser.
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FLOORING • FURNITURE • CABINETS • TIMBER ACCENTS 88 Mountain
Luke navigates while Max naps on Jackson Lake, Wyoming Photo by stephen adamson
A dad’s guide to mountain adventure with little ones By Luke M. Lynch
Was the curious chipmunk at the summit of 10,741-foot Jackson Peak the highlight of Max’s day in the mountains? Or the extra dose of tasty snacks? It really didn’t matter – the day was an unqualified success, and one of my most memorable experiences last summer. Not only did I get a good workout lugging my son up the trail, I also enjoyed his colorful commentary. A 3-year-old brings his own perspective to the mountains, and even small adventures can become big ones – that day in August we found a small patch of snow and had a snowman-building extravaganza. Neither my wife Kathy nor I are giving up our kid-free outdoor pursuits anytime soon, but we love including the little ones whenever possible. This summer Max will be 4, his younger brother Will, 2. Adventuring with them takes more work, planning and gear, but it’s worth the effort. For us, spending time in the mountains with our children is both gratifying and fun – plus, when one of us takes them out, the other gets some valuable personal time. Ultimately though, we hope our kids will share our passion for these wild places, and help preserve them for the next generation. Continued on p. 90
Planning and executing a mountain day trip with kids
By age 3, kids are also learning from their peers. It can be fun to combine forces with another family, especially one that provides a good example and some healthy peer pressure. I make sure to communicate goals and establish a plan with other dads to maximize success; other times, I’ll go with the kids solo, finding it nice to have special time just with them.
Big goals are probably the number one enemy of success with wee ones in the outdoors. Sure, we’ve gotten in some bigger days with kids in tow, but we’ve also stopped a quarter mile from the trailhead and played in falling aspen leaves, eaten some snacks and called it a successful day. If the little dudes have fun, they’ll crave the next adventure. The boys and I name the “peaks” we climb, a fun way to remember a good day, no matter how big or small the objective.
Having a variety of interesting things to eat is a critical element for a successful journey. I pack dried fruit, pretzels, dried seaweed, nuts, granola bars, trail mix, crackers, cheese and jerky. In the winter, I add a vacuum bottle of hot chocolate. The little dudes burn hot and fast and bonk hard if you don’t keep them eating. Keep their engines stoked, and they’ll have more fun. We have a few staples in our house that the kids only get to eat when we’re out in the mountains. Max calls them “Dada’s biking snacks,” and they’re good motivators.
kids respond the way you do
Freaked out by rain? Your kid will be, too. Stoked on getting to wear your raincoat and test if the Chariot stroller’s cover is really waterproof? Your kid will be, too. As you know, children watch their parents and friends to learn how to react.
You probably don’t need an alpine start for the adventures you can do with children in tow, but it helps. Moms are right about this one: Little ones do better in the morning. Fewer bonks, better energy, more enthusiasm
Go short to go long
When our older son Max was about 18 months old, he’d get very nervous whenever it was windy. It put quite a damper on our outings. My solution: bring along a small kite. Now he relishes the wind – a steady breeze has him doing fist pumps. Last summer we shared a splendid afternoon on Sheep Mountain, flying a kite at 11,000 feet in the Gros Ventre Wilderness outside of Jackson. Kite-flying in the high alpine is one of life’s under-appreciated joys. 90 Mountain
. naps Every parent handles naps differently; in fact, this is probably the main topic of parenting disagreement
in our family. Luckily, toddlers that really need naps are good at getting them in a pack or stroller. If your destination includes a drive, that’s another opportunity. I refuse to be taken hostage by nap schedules, but I do occasionally suffer the consequences of an over-tired little one. bonks happen
It won’t always go well. I’ve been five or six miles from the trailhead with an unhappy toddler. It’s not fun. But it usually works out fine, and I try to learn from my mistakes. chariots, packs, boats
The mode of transport is key. A Chariot stroller that can be pulled by a bike or skis, or pushed like a stroller provides valuable versatility in a mountain town. Expensive, yes, but necessary, as far as I’m concerned. Used ones sell quick, so if you find one, buy it. Spare 16-inch and 20-inch tubes, a hand pump and tire irons should be added to any kit when in bike or run mode. A flat tire and no way to fix it, far from the car with cry-
The little dudes burn hot and fast and bonk hard if you don’t keep them eating. Keep their engines stoked, and they’ll have more fun.
ing kids isn’t my idea of fun. On the way home, I’ll plan-in a quick swim, or a stop to throw rocks or visit friends. A kid-carrying pack, like the Osprey Poco, is also clutch. I’ve loaded ours up with binoculars and scouted for elk in the high country, and wade-fished remote creeks with a kid in tow. Sometimes, I strap it to the Chariot, tow that behind my bike and ride to the trailhead. This winter, I hauled Max, skis and all, up the ski hill, and we skied down together. It’s a great workout, and Max loves the attention. When my exertion dictates one-word answers, Pretty soon Max will be carrying Will in the Osprey Poco Pack. he’s got a captive audience for his fanciful tales of deer and Canoes, drift boats, rafts and open dragon hunting, and flying over kayaks are a great way to travel, as mountains in his imaginary friend’s well, especially for kids that are spaceship. too big or won’t tolerate a pack or
Chariot; or if they’re too little to make much headway walking, skiing or biking on their own. Throw in a kid’s fishing pole and some toys, and strap on a PFD and explore the area’s lakes and gentler rivers.
light and right
For peak ascents and bigger days, pack light, but still bring the essentials. If your kid isn’t potty trained yet, a couple diapers and a few wipes are necessary. For bigger kids, extra socks and pants weigh almost nothing and are helpful if they get cold after a romp through a creek, a monster puddle jump, or a muddy trail. A special stuffed animal or lovie can also be good for morale. Oh, and don’t forget the sunscreen – your wife may only buy the windburn story once.
Big Sky Life E s s e n t i a l s f o r t h e B i g S k y L i f e st y l e • • • • •
men’s and women’s clothing shoes furniture bath linens accessories
The excitement of Audi Bozeman Audi Big Sky Showroom
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A small review: kids gear by Kathy Lynch
1) Princeton Tec Bot kids headlamps Our kids love these headlamps. They have three settings (low, bright and blinking), making them very much like an “adult” headlamp. Easily adjustable, they don’t fall off, despite the crashing, clanging and banging that comes with the territory of having two young boys. $15.75 princetontec.com
2) Darn Tough socks for the whole family Lifetime guarantee. Having owned Darn Toughs over the years, we’ve sent in a half dozen pairs that had worn through the bottoms. With no questions asked, Darn Tough replaced them. As for the kid-specific version, Max reports these stay up on your calves all day, which other kids’ socks tend not to do. $15.95 darntough.com 2) Max is ready for anything in Zion, Utah.
3) Osprey Poco Plus Child Carrier
This pack is amazing. From hauling a kid/ski/ boot combo up Snow King, to hiking in Zion, this pack carries a load comfortably. The child harness is accessible and easy to adjust, and the waist belt and shoulder-zip pockets carry snacks at-the-ready for hungry kids. A hydration pouch slides into the rear Luke hikes, Will sleeps. compartment, and built-in tabs keep the drinking tube in place and accessible to the child. The pull-up sun-shade works well, and the fleecy covering on top of the pack is easy on the boys’ chins and faces when they fall asleep. And Max loves using the foot stirrups (often referring to Luke as his horse). $259.00 ospreypacks.com
5) Julbo Solan sunglasses These shades stay put on Max’s face while hiking and biking, unlike many kids’ sunglasses. According to Max, they’re comfortable on his ears, don’t ever hurt his head, and he really likes the blue/gray color scheme. $40.00 julbousa.com
4) Patagonia Torrentshell jacket As with everything Patagonia, we love the Torrentshell. It does well in the rain at home in Jackson, and kept the chill off in early mornings and windy afternoons on our spring desert trip. We especially like the reflective piping on the chest and back, which makes it more visible to cars at dusk. Zippered hand pockets in the front are great for securing snacks or gloves, as is the elastic/mesh inside chest pocket. FYI, Patagonia kids’ products tend to run a little large – luckily, this one will fit Max for at least another year. $99.00 patagonia.com
Stunt man Max in his Julbo Solan sunglasses.
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“ L i f e i s a d a r i n g a d v e n t u r e o r n o t h i n g at a l l”
– Helen Keller
by Katie Morrison
adventure tours Hot air balloon ride
Check out seven mountain ranges from the air with Wyoming Balloon Company -Jackson Hole wyomingballoon.com
Scenic Yellowstone Park and paddle
See Old Faithful in the morning and kayak Hebgen Lake in the afternoon with Lava Lake Adventures’ private family tour –West Yellowstone lavacreekadventures.com
Let the llamas do the heavy lifting on a multi-day trek through the park’s natural wonders, with Yellowstone Safari Company. The llamas are kid friendly and light on the land; they won’t spit on you, but Loredo the llama may give you a kiss! –Bozeman yellowstonesafari.com
fly fishing Blue Ribbon for conservation
Craig and Jackie Mathews, owner of Blue Ribbon Flies, are leaders not only in Yellowstone region fly-fishing, but also in conservation. –West Yellowstone blue-ribbon-flies.com
Gallatin River Guides owners Pat and Brandy Straub run their guide shop just feet from the banks of the Gallatin River (the river where Brad Pitt fished in A River Runs Through It). They keep it “reel,” offering trips and local tips to all angling levels, including kids. –Big Sky montanaflyfishing.com
Cowboys and cutthroats
The Big Sky PBR: July 31 and August 1 Photo by Jake Campos 94 Mountain
Tim Wade lives in Cody because there are more than 1,500 miles of water within an hour drive. Guides working for his outfitter, Northfork Anglers, pride themselves on off-the-beaten-path adventures, like fly-fishing pack trips by horseback. – Cody northforkanglers.com
GLAMPING Roosevelt Lodge Cabins- YNP
Accommodations vary from simple cabins to even more rustic versions, located in the northern region of Yellowstone Park. Family style western cookouts and lack of internet or television allow you to go back in time to true western tradition. -Yellowstone National Park yellowstoneparklodges.com
Parade Rest Guest Ranch
Take in Yellowstone and the romance of the West with the ranch’s horseback riding, fishing and western cookout allinclusive package. Only 10 minutes from the West Entrance, this is the closest guest ranch to the park. – West Yellowstone paraderestranch.com
RED LODGE GARDINER
Luxury safari tents and tipis allow you to feel the fresh air and hear the sounds of the Rocky Mountain world at night, without sacrificing the pleasure of a comfortable bed or a bathroom with running hot water. This is glamping in its truest form. –West Yellowstone
Yellowstone Under Canvas
Yellowstone National Park
UNIQUE ADVENTURES Ziplining
Zip down Lone Mountain on four zip lines up to 1,500 feet long and 150 feet above ground. Expect beautiful mountain views as you glide through the forest, and the possibility of seeing moose from above. –Big Sky bigskyresort.com
Ride more than 4,000 vertical feet in 15 minutes, to the summit of Rendezvous Mountain at Jackson Hole Mountain Resort. Take in the 360-degree views including the Grand Teton and the Snake River, then hike around the peak checking out wildflowers and fossils before heading into Corbet’s Cabin for waffles. Insiders’ tip: buy tickets online for the best price. –Jackson jacksonhole.com Fishing the Gallatin River between Big Sky and West Yellowstone Photo by Chris Davis
WHITEWATER RAFTING Geyser Whitewater
Less than an hour from the West Entrance, choose your adventure with Geyser, from a relaxing, scenic float, to heart racing class IV rapids on the Gallatin River. Plan to spend extra time at the headquarters with changing rooms, a climbing wall, bike rentals, gift shop and photo studio. –Big Sky raftmontana. com
Wyoming River Trips
Follow Buffalo Bill’s path through the Red Rock Canyon of the Shoshone. Depending on water levels, kids as young as 4 can participate. – Cody wyomingrivertrips.com
An easy half-mile hike starting at the 45th parallel and crossing state lines between Montana and Wyoming brings you to a natural anomaly where a Yellowstone hydrothermal feature flows scalding water into the frigid Gardner River. Wear your bathing suit and soak in the contrasts. – Yellowstone National Park nps.gov
RODEOS Big Sky PBR: July 31- August 1
Spend two days on the Snake River with an overnight trip. This 16-mile river trip includes grand scenery, rapids, a night in tipis, and hot dinner and breakfast by campfire. – Jackson sandswhitewater.com
Voted “Event of the Year,” the world class Big Sky Professional Bull Riders event brings top bulls, cowboys and music for two nights. Montana native rodeo clown Flint Rasmussen keeps the crowd entertained between riders, while Hell’s Belles and the Dirty Shame rock the stage for free concerts after bulls are done bucking. Insiders’ tip: tickets sell out for the bull riding, but the concerts are a worthwhile event of their own accord. -Big Sky explorebigsky.com/bigskypbr
Running since 1919, the Cody Stampede is a 4th of July staple. The rodeo takes place July 1-4, with additional rodeos running all summer long. Enjoy a full set of rodeo events from bareback broncs to steer wrestling and barrel racing. -Cody codystampederodeo.com
Jackson Hole Rodeo
Jackson, known for its cowboy culture, hosts rodeos all summer long. Family run for three generations, the rodeo is a western tradition. –Jackson jhrodeo.com
Culture & Comfort of
Y E L L OW S T O N E by Katie Morrison
“ To m o v e , t o b r e a t h e , t o f l y t o f l o a t , To g a i n a l l w h i l e y o u g i v e , To r o a m t h e r o a d s o f l a n d s r e m o t e , To t r a v e l i s t o l i v e . ” – H a n s C h r i s t i a n An d e r s o n
g u ides of yellowstone Guided tours of Yellowstone offer personal, in depth knowledge of the wildlife, ecosystem and geology. Y L o o p Ro a d Tr i p s Mindful of the Yellowstone ecosystem, Y Loop guides bring a scientific background, as well as healthy lunches catered by the Whole Foods Trading Company. Initiation points: Cody or Red Lodge Ylooproadtrips.com G r e at e r Y e ll ow s t o n e Guides Decades of YNP guide experience provide an interesting and fun park tour. Optional: have a guide accompany you in your vehicle, on your schedule. Initiation Points: Bozeman, Big Sky, West Yellowstone, Livingston and Gardiner greateryellowstoneguides.com
revitali z ing spas After time in the car or out in the elements, spend time taking care of yourself. H i k e r ’ s R e c ov e ry Pa c k a g e , H o t e l T e rr a Recover from hiking and camping with an 80-minute massage that incorporates a custom hand and foot treatment, plus arnica salve for sore muscles. – Jackson Hole hotelterra.com F a c e t h e M o u n ta i n , M o o n l i gh t B a s i n Heal your skin after exposure to sun, wind and temperature changes with this facial. Ultra gentle marine extracts calm the skin and stop reactivity. Family pick – let the rest of your family enjoy the onsite pool and deck with its cascading waterfall and views of Lone Mountain, while you relax in the sanctuary and steam room. – Big Sky moonlightbasin.com
western art galleries The Yellowstone region is full of art districts that capture the landscapes and culture of the West. Jackson Walk the town square to discover some of today’s most well known western artists. A few of note: Legacy Gallery – fine western art including artists such as Gary Lynn Roberts and John DeMott legacygallery.com Alta Mira Fine Art – A unique collection including works from September Vhay and R. Tom Gilleon. altamiraart.com Big Sky New and noteworthy for the region, Big Sky’s Town Center has a growing gallery presence. They include: Creighton Block Gallery – an expanding collection of fine art from notable artists such as Kevin Red Star, Paula Pearl and Gary Carter creightonblockgallery.com Gallatin River Gallery – Owned by artist Julie Gustafson and including a collection of mediums from jewelry, paintings, photography and sculptures gallatinrivergallery.com
R. Tom Gilleon “Mother Moon” Oil on Canvas 50x50. R. Tom Gilleon is represented at Alta Mira Fine Art in Jackson and Creighton Block Gallery in Big Sky.
historic hotels Feel the history of the Old West, sleeping in the same lodges as those who traveled here more than a century ago.
m u se u ms M u s e u m o f t h e Ro c k i e s The museum is home to one of the largest collections of dinosaurs in the world, an effort led by archeologist Jack Horner. Additionally, it features a state of the art planetarium and children’s Explore Yellowstone exhibit, making it a full day of fun for the whole family. -Bozeman museumoftherockies.org H ay n e s Ph o t o Sh o p Opening this summer, the historic building shows off a trove of photo and postcard reproductions to tell the story of Yellowstone’s history. The site will also double as an informational resource center for Yellowstone Park Foundation. -Yellowstone National Park ypf.org
B u ff a l o B i ll ’ s Irm a H o t e l Established in 1902, this original hotel gives you a chance to experience the Wild West. Watch one of the nightly gun fights out front, or stay in Buffalo Bill’s suite. Locals’ tip: Room #13 is rumored to be haunted. – Cody irmahotel.com Ol d F a i t hf u l I n n Built in 1904, the lodge adjacent to Old Faithful is one of the few remaining log hotels in the US. Famous for it’s architecture and craftsmanship, it is designed with the chaos of nature in mind. Plan extra time to check it out, even if you don’t stay the night. -Yellowstone National Park yellowstonenationalparklodges.com
Historic postcard of Angel Terrace by Frank J Haynes
A fresh pie from Ousel & Spur Pizza Co., Big Sky Photo by Tori Pintar
A small ‘taste’ of some of the great restaurants that surround Yellowstone Park
Craft beer, craft pizza
Copper Whiskey Bar & Grill
Rustic, yet elegant
John Bozeman’s Bistro
30 years of great steak, seafood, service
The Emerson Grill
Award-winning outdoor dining
Voted Best Breakfast in Bozeman
Modern American grill
2nd Street Bistro
Classic French Bistro, locally sourced
Wood fired pizzas, sandwiches, baked goods
Fun, fresh, homemade food
Yellowstone Valley Lodge
Riverside farm-to-table dining
D.O.G. Down on Glen
Breakfast burritos, cheesesteaks, smoothies
Roadhouse Brewing Co.
Craft beer & comfort food
Waffles atop the tram
Curry, noodles, yum
The Royal Wolf
Burgers, pub food, beer
Blue Moon Bakery
Pizza, bakery, salads, beer
Big Sky’s best burger
Ousel & Spur
Montana fine dining
Authentic Spanish tapas
Silver Dollar Bar
Whole Foods Trading Co.
Healthy, organic local food, grocery & café
Bear Creek Saloon
A must see - food, drink & pig races
Red Lodge Ales Brewing Co.
Sandwiches, salads & microbrews
Pizza, beer & mining museum
Buns n Beds
Deli sandwiches, malts & bbq
Log Cabin Café
Wholesome, hearty Western American fare
Price per entree: $ = $10 & under $$ = $11-20 $$$ = $20+
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the Haynes legacy lives on
Old Faithful Photo Shop helps park visitors give back By Maria Wyllie
On January 5, 1887, 13 men embarked from Mammoth on an expedition through Yellowstone National Park. Five days in, their leader, Arctic explorer Frederick Schwatka, fell ill traveling along the Gibbon River from Norris to the Firehole Hotel and could go no further. While most of the group waited to see if Schwatka would recover, the expedition’s photographer, Frank J. Haynes, pressed on with a guide and two hearty outdoorsmen hired to handle equipment. The men used Canadian web snowshoes and 10-foot long, four-inch wide Norwegian skis in the deep snow, towing toboggans laden with heavy photographic equipment and chemicals to develop photos in the field.
Frank J. Haynes during the 1887 expedition through Yellowstone National Park NPS PHOTO
them for 72 hours. With little food and no extra clothing, they almost died. Finding a stand of small fir trees, they used their skis to dig a snow pit for shelter and built a fire. When the skies cleared two days later, they skied roughly 12 miles to Yancey’s Pleasant Valley Hotel just north of the TowerRoosevelt junction. After resting there for a day, they made the trek back to Mammoth on January 27, returning with 42 photographs documenting their 29-day, 200-mile journey.
Knowing his images would constitute the first complete mid-winter portfolio of Yellowstone, Haynes was determined to photograph the Upper and Lower Geyser Basins and Yellowstone Falls.
This collection of images from the harrowing winter journey of 1887 is only part of the Haynes legacy.
After reaching Canyon Hotel on January 20, where Haynes captured photos of the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone and the Lower Falls on fragile, photographic plates, he was hungry for more. Haynes decided to lead his party northeast along the edge of the Grand Canyon so he could photograph new winter sites. They left Canyon on January 23 and began climbing 10,243-foot Mount Washburn. After only a few hours, a blinding snowstorm obscured all landmarks, trapping
Old Faithful Geyser, 1913. The Haynes family published more than 55 million YNP postcards from 1900 to 1966. These postcards were hand-colored and helped shape the perception of YNP around the world. NPS Photo
Haynes first visited Yellowstone in 1881 while working as a photographer for the Northern Pacific Railroad. Falling in love with the park, he returned every summer thereafter to photograph its wonders. In 1884, he secured the first commercial concessions in the park, and for the next 84 years, his family operated 13 photo shops in the park under the name Haynes, Inc. In 1900, they began selling “penny postals,” cards depicting iconic Yellowstone scenes that cost only a penny.
visitors starting this summer. Originally built by Jack in 1927, the restored structure, known as the Old Faithful Haynes Photo Gallery, is now LEED-certified. Its mission is twofold: honoring the Haynes family and helping fundraise for the park. A modern, interactive exhibit offers an interpretive history, telling the Haynes’ story and the role photography played in establishing the park and promoting tourism there. Another informs visitors about YPF, the park’s official fundraising partner since 1995. Although the foundation has raised more than $70 million for the park it has never had a facility there. In this exhibit, whimsical 19th century aesthetics juxtapose 21st century technology to explain YPF’s strategic initiatives heard through vintage phone receivers and seen on modern video screens. Yellowstone National Park Deputy Superintendent Steve Iobst, who oversaw the restoration, says the shop’s proximity to the Old Faithful Inn should help YPF reach a captive audience.
The National Park Service preserved the historic Old Faithful Photo Shop and in 2011 moved it from its original location at the Old Faithful Auto Camp to a spot near the Old Faithful Visitor Education Center. YPF paid to restore the interior through a $4 million fundraising campaign. Photos courtesy of YPF
A new book, The Haynes Family in Yellowstone National Park: 1881-1968 by Susan and Jack Davis, explains that the postcards had a broad impact, introducing Yellowstone’s natural wonders and beauty to America – and the rest of the world – during a time when few had visited the park. It was Frank Haynes’ son Jack who was responsible for the postcards’ popularity. He developed the idea of the “Haynes 100 Series,” a collection of postcards arranged by number that followed the “grand loop tour” around the park. After assuming ownership of Haynes, Inc. in 1916, Jack managed the business until his death in 1962. He earned the nickname “Mr. Yellowstone” for his longtime commitment to the park – from business to conservation and education.
By mixing technology with a vintage look and feel, the space invites tourists to step back in time and imagine Yellowstone in the early 1900s. The welcome desk is a Haynes original, and reproductions of Frank Haynes’ photography equipment are displayed alongside antique souvenirs, such as the Haynes Guides, which were the first Yellowstone guidebooks to use photographs. A digital darkroom allows guests to upload their Yellowstone photos in real time, email them or temporarily become part of the exhibit by displaying their photos on the electronic entry wall. Whether visitors have their picture taken in the Haynes photo op, which uses a vintage postcard image for the background, or watch Old Faithful erupt through vintage cameras, they will play a role in both preserving and continuing the park’s photographic history – one that was nearly buried on the steeps of Mt. Washburn 126 years ago. Find more about the Old Faithful Haynes Photo Gallery at ypf.org.
“He took a strong interest in preserving its natural wonders and quality of its character,” wrote the Davises.
More information on the Haynes family: “At the Greatest Personal Peril to the Photographer,” by William Lang, Montana: The Magazine of Western History, 1983 winter edition.
The National Park Service, through a partnership with the Yellowstone Park Foundation, has restored one of the Haynes’ operations, the Old Faithful Photo Shop, and is opening it to
The Haynes Family in Yellowstone National Park: 1881-1968, by Susan and Jack Davis, 2013.
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Run to the hills By Marcie Hahn-Knoff
It began as a conversation between friends traveling far from home. Their idea was to bring a world-class mountain running event to Montana, a challenging race that would attract an international field of competitors and act as an avenue to show off the beauty and wildness of their home state. And so began Mike Foote and Mike Wolfe’s journey to the start line of the newest ultra marathon mountain run in Montana – The Rut 50K. Mike Wolfe and Mike Foote scouting the course for The Rut on Lone Mountain. Photo by Nick Wolcott
difficult when dealing with different government agencies and permitting.”
Wolfe and Foote, or the ‘Mikes’ as they’re affectionately called, are accomplished ultra-runners both sponsored by The North Face and both residents of Missoula. The men have traveled the world for 50- and 100-mile ultramarathons, pushing and supporting each other along the way. Now, they will serve as co-directors for The Rut, a 50-kilometer mountain race set for September 2013 in Big Sky. “The idea had been getting tossed around for years – it became a matter of finding the right venue,” said Foote, 29, a former ski patroller at Moonlight Basin. “Holding a race of this distance and caliber… can be
Foote, who works as race director for a specialty running shop in Missoula, Runner’s Edge, began researching venue options in late 2011. Though The Rut is the brainchild of Foote and Wolfe, when owner Anders Booker offered to add the event to the shop’s organized races for the year, the idea began to grow legs. The Mikes had a feeling that Big Sky would be a perfect location, and when they scouted their potential racecourse on Lone Mountain for the first time in July 2012, they were sold. Soon after, they approached Lyndsey Owens, Director of Marketing at Big
Sky Resort and an avid mountain runner herself. “When they brought me the idea, I said, ‘Yes! Let’s figure out how to make this happen,’” Owens said. “This is the kind of event that enlivens the town. It is a win-win for everyone.” After several days of scouting and mapping the course, the Mikes decided to hold the race in September, when the weather is cooler and generally stable. “As it happens, this is also the time of year that the elk are in rut – thus the inspiration for the name,” said Foote, explaining that the rut is another word name for elk mating season, the
= mile marker
Watching the action Spectators can view the start and finish of the race from the Big Sky Mountain Village, and also access the summit of Lone Mountain to cheer on their favorite racers via Lone Peak Tram Expedition.
Ultramarathon 24 28
48 4 44
time of year when bulls bugle to show dominance. Wolfe, 35, who grew up hunting in the mountains around Bozeman and Big Sky, remembers old timers sharing stories about fall elk camp near the foot of Lone Mountain. While running there last fall, he saw elk sign everywhere. “There is magic to the elk rut,” Wolfe said. “It’s like having front row seats to something pre-historic, a view into the heart of the wild. We want the race to have that same raw, exciting and passionate feel.” The race starts and ends at Big Sky Mountain Village (elevation 7,510 feet), gaining and losing 8,000 feet over its entirety, and working its way up and down 11,166-foot Lone Mountain, 8,850-foot Andesite, and traversing through the neighboring Moonlight Basin property. It follows single-track trails through
whitebark pine forests and along exposed ridgelines, pounding up dirt double-track roads and scrambling through challenging off trail sections. There will also be a 12-kilometer course. Both will be capped at 200 participants. “We designed the Rut 50K to be as technical and challenging as [what] you would experience on a mountain course in Europe,” Wolfe says. “We have mountains in Montana that rival any others in the world.” More at runtherut.com Writer Marcie Hahn-Knoff, who has twice run the 19.7-mile Bridger Ridge Run, works as a broker with Winter and Company Real Estate. She wrote about Big Sky’s skiing pioneers for the 20122013 winter issue in “Under the spell of Lone Mountain: 40 years down the road.”
What is an ultramarathon? Set mostly in the mountains, ultramarathons are 50 kilometers (31 miles) or more, compared to a road marathon at 26.2 miles. Unlike many mountain sports, trail running is accessible to almost anyone, says Sarah (Evans) McCloskey, a Utahbased ultra runner with a clutch of impressive finishes. “All shapes and sizes of people compete in trail running,” she says, noting that walking is OK, especially on uphills. “If you need to, take a break and just enjoy where you are.” Training is key, McCloskey says, but you don’t need to run 30 miles a day. “Mixing up your mileage and shooting for about 40 miles a week is a good goal… Running an ultramarathon is pretty much a mental game. You just have to keep going.”
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“The food you eat can be either the safest and most powerful form of medicine, or the slowest form of poison.” – Ann Wigmore
Fact or fad? By Ashley Allan What is gluten? Gluten is the group of proteins found in barley, oats, rye and wheat that give flour its stickiness. Prevalent in the American diet, it can be found in foods prepared with these sources, as well as in prescription medications and food additives. As an additive, it’s used to boost protein levels, and create a light, chewy texture. Other grains containing gluten include spelt, kamut, triticale, farro and einkorn. While oats don’t contain gluten, they’re often cross-contaminated and generally contain it unless labeled otherwise. Why is gluten becoming an issue? Gluten has been part of the human diet for 10,000 years, since humans first began cultivating crops. Before that time, we didn’t survive on agriculture – rather a hunter/ gatherer diet with fewer grains and cereals.
Cafe Madriz in West Yellowstone serves authentic Spanish cuisine including many glutenfree options. Pictured here: tortilla española, a classic Spanish potato, onion and egg omelet. Photo by the Outlaw Partners
Gluten intolerance is becoming increasingly common, and Celiac disease, an autoimmune disorder caused by an immunologic intolerance to gluten, affects 3 million Americans. “Changes in farming and dietary practices, excessive pharmaceutical use, globalization and the effects of our modern lifestyle all play a role,” says Dr. Holcomb John-
ston, a naturopathic doctor and owner of Sweetgrass Natural Medicine in Bozeman. A study published in 2011 in BioMed Central Medicine attributes the rise in gluten intolerance to humans’ lack of the proper genes to digest it. The study also examines the possibility that modern wheat may in fact be more toxic than its ancestors. “The selection of wheat varieties with higher gluten content has been a continuous process during the last 10,000 years,” it reports, noting that wheats grown before the Middle Ages contained smaller amounts of the “highly toxic 33mer gluten peptide.” A molecule of approximately 50 amino acids, this peptide is responsible for initiating the inflammatory response to gluten in people with Celiac disease, according to the study. This stronger form has been labeled as “super-gluten” by many health professionals and is responsible for the lighter, fluffier bread products that many people have come to expect from these foods. Adding to the issues, Johnston says, our culture’s growing reliance on antibiotics and disinfectants can cause a decline in the antibodies needed to fight off invaders, “which is how the body sees gluten.”
Why do some people seem to be affected while others are not? Genes can contribute to gluten intolerance and Celiac disease, but people aren’t necessarily born with it. Environmental factors can trigger it, as well.
Dr. Mark Hyman, MD, is a family practice physician and creator of a whole body approach to health known as “Functional Medicine.” An advocate for a gluten-free diet, Hyman refers to gluten as a “silent killer.”
“Genes are turned on and off by environment,” Johnston says. “Just because you have the gene for something, doesn’t always mean you are going to get that something. What we bathe our cells, and essentially [our] DNA in, will greatly affect the messages sent throughout our body.” And we bathe our cells in what we eat.
In “Gluten: What you don’t know might kill you,” an article published in 2011 on his website, Hyman maintains that while 99 percent of sick people don’t relate their illness to ingesting gluten, at least 55 diseases are caused by gluten. Gluten intolerance causes inflammation, he says, which in turn leads to disease in the body.
Stress, Johnston says, which affects nearly everyone, directly impacts our digestion. We don’t allow our system adequate time to ‘rest and digest’ and often rush through meals due to time constraints. Similarly, stress affects anti-inflammatory and inflammatory pathways, which can lead to an increase in allergic or allergic-type reactions – like gluten intolerance.
How does gluten make you feel? Gluten-free diets have surged in popularity, in part as a response to our inability to digest this new form of gluten.
Symptoms of gluten intolerance Gas, bloating, constipation, diarrhea, abdominal pain, weight gain (or loss), fatigue, headaches, depression, lack of mental clarity, irritability and skin rashes are common signs of gluten intolerance. In Celiac disease, the small intestine cannot digest or absorb food due to sensitivity of the intestinal lining to gliadin, a protein in gluten; this causes the digestive and absorptive cells of the intestine to atrophy. Recent studies have shown gluten to be associated with other disorders including type 1 diabetes, rheumatoid arthritis, osteoporosis, irritable bowel syndrome, Hashimoto’s, Addison’s disease, multiple sclerosis, cancer and other autoimmune diseases.
One way to learn how your body reacts to gluten is by eliminating it from your diet for 2-4 weeks and seeing how you feel when you introduce it back into your diet.
INGREDIENTS YOU MAY NOT REALIZE CONTAIN GLUTEN If you’re trying to avoid gluten, it’s important to read food labels. Watch out for ingredients like natural flavor, monosodium glutamate (MSG), caramel coloring, emulsifiers, malt, hydrolyzed (vegetable or wheat) protein, cereal, binder, couscous, durum, semolina, seitan and modified food starch. ALTERNATIVES Wheat alternatives include quinoa, millet, amaranth, buckwheat, rice, corn, sorghum, teff, kasha, garbanzo and coconut flour. It’s best to rotate the foods you eat: Anything you consume on a regular basis could potentially turn into an allergy. Try new things; eat a rainbow of colors at every meal and always listen to your body. MORE INFORMATION gluten.net, celiac.com
No gluten = no bread? No way.
Not to worry, bread lovers, there is life after death on the gluten-free path, thanks to Boulder, Colorado-based Rudi’s Bakery. Since 1976, Rudi’s has mastered the art of gluten-free baking, using wholesome all natural and organic ingredients including sunflower seeds, millet, fiber and flax. Other products include tortillas, pizza crusts and buns. rudisbakery.com/gluten-free
Photo by Ashley Allan
GLUTEN-FREE RECIPE: Socca Bread Ingredients: 1c garbanzo bean (chickpea) flour 1c water 1 T olive oil (optional) 1 t salt Dried herbs of choice – cumin, basil, coriander and rosemary are some savory choices; cinnamon is great if you want a sweeter taste. Directions: Combine all ingredients in a bowl and whisk together. Let sit for at least an hour at room temperature. The longer you let it sit, the better the consistency will be. Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Line a 9-10-inch round baking pan with parchment paper (alternately, you can coat bottom of pan with coconut oil to prevent sticking). Pour batter into pan and cook for 35-40 minutes until crust is cooked through (use a toothpick to test the inside; if batter sticks, keep cooking). The top should be golden or dark brown. Serving: Eat as is; use as bread for sandwiches; or substitute for crackers or pizza crust. Try it topped with avocado and fresh basil and cilantro; add maple syrup/ honey, cinnamon and fresh fruit; or try adding chocolate chips to make a cookie dough. The possibilities are endless – enjoy! This recipe and others can be found at ashleyhealthcoach.com.
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art from earth
washington wineries bottling perfection By kurt Erickson I zip open my tent and step into the crisp April morning. My breath dissipates skyward as the sun rises over the andesite ridgeline that makes the Naches Heights of Washington famous among geologists and unique to winegrowers. My campsite sits atop the climbing bluffs at Wilridge Vineyard, which are rigged with anchors for top roping the ancient lava that plunged from the Goat Rocks near Mount Rainier millions of years ago. Stepping to the edge, I peer into the shadows of Cowiche Canyon. I long
Bud break on Naches Heights
to rappel down like I have the previous two days, but my sense of timing says no. Today may be the only chance to capture a magical moment in the vineyards behind me. The vines have waited months for the sun to beckon their florets open and drink in the light. Each blossom holds the potential to produce one luscious grape and with it the dreams of men who devote their lives to crafting wine from juice, art from Earth. I dash to the tent, grab my camera and take my position among the vines. The only sound to be heard, as the clusters open wide, is the snap of the cameraâ€™s shutter. The sound shocks me back to the present, to Pike Place Market in Seattle.
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The vines have waited months for the sun to beckon their florets open and drink the light.
I was caught in a flashback to a trip I took last week. Since returning from Afghanistan, profound images seem burned upon my retina – some ugly, others beautiful – and they often reappear as flashbacks. I calm my nerves and smile, remembering last week’s vineyard in bloom. Camera in hand, I meander past fishmongers laden with the morning catch, past bushels of produce shining in the sun. A street performer plucks his banjo, and the scent of coffee and fresh pastries wafts through the air. I step between bouquets of multicolored tulips and watch a cheesemaker in her apron separating the curd. I cross the street, then pause to watch ferries on Elliott Bay moving through the morning mist. Passing Kell’s, a little Irish pub still closed after last night’s revelry, I turn onto the cobblestones of Post Alley and stop outside the wooden doors of The Tasting Room Seattle. A cooperative venture in the heart of this world-class market, the tasting room showcases more than 60 Washington wines of exceptional quality, from craftsmen who are changing their
industry. Among them: a pioneer, a visionary, a newcomer and a rebel. Here, in this microcosm of the Pacific Northwest, their stories and craft mingle with a grape’s potential, culminating in bottled perfection.
The Pioneer: Paul Beveridge Wilridge Winery and The Tasting Room Seattle
Wilridge Vineyard and Tasting Room sits next to an extensive network of hiking and mountain biking trails.
A tireless winemaker, entrepreneur and practicing attorney in “Beveridge Law,” as he calls it, Paul Beveridge is the pioneering force behind The Tasting Room Seattle and Wilridge Winery. Over the past 25 years, Beveridge has led
a number of efforts to open the marketplace to small wineries and make the industry more energy efficient. “It’s sad commentary on the state of our laws that my legal training has been so important to the success of our winery,” he said. Beveridge aims to make Wilridge the “greenest winery in the Northwest” with refillable bottles, biodynamic farming and by utilizing solar power at the Naches Heights vineyard near Yakima. With climbing bluffs on the grounds, as well as campsites, hiking, biking and horseback riding trails, fire pits, barbecues and an outdoor sauna, Wilridge appeals to a different type of wine enthusiast. Beveridge’s true calling, however, is winemaking: From his Pinot Grigio and Viognier whites, to his stunning Nebbiolo and Red Mountain Mélange, the wines exhibit excellent balance and acidity, showcasing the ripeness and abundance of fruit character indicative of Washington terroir.
L: Wilridge is an outdoor destination for the whole family. R: The Tasting Room Seattle, in Pike Place Market, offers more than 60 Washington wines.
The Visionary: Don Corson Camaraderie Cellars
Camaraderie Cellars offers more than just delicious wines.
with Washington grape growers like Fred Artz of the Red Mountain American Viticultural Area and Paul Champoux from the Rattlesnake Hills AVA, both of whom are now world-renowned for their quality vineyards and have been mainstay vineyard partners with Camaraderie since its doors opened in the early 1990s. “Paul [Beveridge] and I were here at the beginning,” Corson said, noting that they were among the first 50 bonded wineries in the state, which now has more than 750.
Geographer Don Corson, Ph.D, opened Camaraderie Cellars near the Port Angeles entrance to Olympic National Park, which draws more than three million visitors annually to the peninsula west of Seattle.
“Washington grape growing is like a constellation that continues to add stars.” Washington, with its wide range of microclimates and long growing season, can ripen nearly every grape varietal.
Corson and his wife Vicki knew that even in the Olympic Peninsula’s wet climate, “People in this part of the country view recreation more for re-creation,” he said. “When they visit us, they are looking for an authentic Northwest experience.”
The rich layering of the Camaraderie Bordeaux-style blends is without equal. My personal favorite, called Grâce, allowed the cellar to spread its wings, and the wines are now sold in restaurants like Bobby Flay’s in Manhattan, Oenophilia in Chicago, and nationwide at the retailer Total Wine and More.
Corson’s vision began in the early 1980s, as he built relationships
The Newcomer: Timothy Narby Nota Bene Cellars
Nota Bene Cellars blends a love of aircraft and wine craft.
The newest additions to The Tasting Room Seattle’s repertoire include the exceptional wines of Timothy Narby, winemaker and owner of Nota Bene Cellars. Although he may be the new kid in Post Alley, Narby, who specializes in reds, has been crafting award-winning wines since 2001. “We’re all red, all the time!” he said. A long-time Boeing engineer, Narby’s winemaking experience comes largely from his time with the Boeing Wine Club. This group’s passion for both aircraft and wine craft has propelled several in their ranks to open wineries. Nota Bene Cellars is located in South Seattle not far from Boeing Field; however it sources extraordinary fruit from places like the Ciel du Cheval vineyard on Red Mountain and the Dineen vineyard in Yakima Valley.
Sunrise to sunset at Wilridge Vineyard in Yakima, Washington
where the Outdoor adventurer meets the wine enthusiast
the outspoken and passionate owner of Willis Hall Winery in Marysville, Washington. This rebel has a cause, and in addition, staggering winemaking talent. His mouth-watering Syrah explodes with rich, dark berry character and lingers on the palette with loads of spice and vanilla.
John Bell, owner of Willis Hall Winery, and the author at the Tasting Room Seattle
Many in the wine industry view John Bell as a rebel. He embraces the title. “It irritates me when people stand between me and my freedom,” says
Together with pioneer Paul Beveridge, Bell became a key member of Family Wineries of Washington State, a group that represents the interests of small wineries, which are often overwhelmed by the legislation surrounding the industry. These combined efforts against the “Department of No!” as John calls it, have led the Washington State Liquor
Control Board to re-examine its views on many issues, including cooperative tasting rooms like The Tasting Room Seattle. “We needed to band together, otherwise we would never survive,” Bell said. “It’s a very collegial atmosphere amongst the little guys. If my pump broke down during bottling, for instance, I would have 10 winemakers offering to bring their pumps over in an hour.” Kurt Erickson is an experienced winemaker and wine professional who most recently served as a sniper team leader in the US Army. He returned from a deployment to Afghanistan in January 2013 and now makes his home in western Washington.
People in this part of the country view recreation more for re-creation. Don Corson, Owner of Camaraderie Cellars
The Rebel: John Bell Willis Hall Winery
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Sh e lly B e rm o n t Custom Jewelry Shelly Bermont in her Big Sky studio. Photo by Kelsey Dzintars
By Emily Stifler
size. In another, South Sea and Tahitian pearls tumble together.
Shelly Bermont kneels on the floor of her jewelry studio in Big Sky, Montana, sifting through a drawer of turquoise. “I love natural stones, the fact that I can take these beautiful things in nature and create something you can wear and enjoy,” she says. “When I can’t figure out what to do, I just open up these drawers.” Her turquoise, Sleeping Beauty, is a gem-quality stone sourced mostly in Arizona, known for its pure, sky-blue color. The drawers are organized by stone type, value and 118
“There is a 2,000-mile stretch of sea around Tahiti where mollusks grow and produce Tahitian pearls,” Bermont says, lifting a strand. The jeweler is known for her work with these pearls, their colors ranging from light silver to black, green and some that are almost purple. Bermont, 60, earned a degree in fine art from the University of North Florida and has studied gold-smithing in Montana, California and Arizona. She designs the pearl line for Underwood, a renowned luxury jeweler in Florida, as well as custom pieces for clients, and her own
Colleen Williams, a news anchor for NBC Los Angeles and a Big Sky homeowner, loves Bermont’s work. “She has the best pearls I’ve ever seen. They’re such spectacular pieces in their simplicity. In fact, one of my favorites I actually bought right off of her. It’s a mixture you wouldn’t expect – leather and pearls.” Williams’ lariat has a large pearl drop she can wear long or double over short. “It’s been to Europe, it’s in my wardrobe in LA, and I certainly wear it when I come to Big Sky… It’s sturdy, versatile and elegant… I trust her taste.” Jewelry, Bermont says, is personal – not one-size-fits-all. signature line featuring raw diamonds, large pearls, and 18 and 22 carat gold. “I love melting gold,” Bermont says. “Once I started forming metal, that gave me the ability to do whatever I want.” The former print model and flight attendant splits her time between Los Angeles and Big Sky. In what she calls her previous life – in Miami, punctuated by black tie events – big, formal jewelry was the norm. But eventually, she found that unsatisfying.
“I look at the person’s lifestyle, coloring, bone structure and what they wear. You want something flattering for you… [something] classic that you’ll wear forever.” Bermont sells her work at wholesale in Montana. Call her for a private appointment – (406) 548-4477, or find her at shellybermont.com.
“I thought it was a shame to have beautiful stuff that just sits in the bank. I wanted to be able to wear it during the daytime, with my jeans, and not look ostentatious.” So she started taking it apart, redesigning her own jewelry and her girlfriends’, setting the stones in more casual arrangements. “A lot of things come in and go out of style,” Bermont says. “I think jewelry shouldn’t be one of those.” Beth Stein, a Nashville, Tennessee resident who summers in Big Sky, has a custom necklace by Bermont that was a gift from her husband. It’s a leather lariat with a gold, hand-hammered snake wrapped around it, big pearls hanging from each end and a second snake as the clasp. “There’s something almost sinister about it,” Stein said. “I get more comments on that piece of jewelry than anything I’ve ever had, because it’s so unusual. It’s very understated, but it’s magnificent.”
Shelly Bermont’s necklace and earrings made with Sleeping Beauty turquoise. PHOTO BY JAKE CAMPOS
Left: Bermont is known for her work with Tahitian Pearls. Their colors range from light silver to black, green and some that are almost purple. OUTLAW PARTNERS PHOTO
The eccentric mountain man By Megan Paulson On the banks of the Salmon River, 52 miles into Idaho’s Frank Church River of No Return Wilderness, lived a man so captivating that Sports Illustrated published a 6,000-word feature on him in 1966. “On the River of No Return, in the country named Light on the Mountains, there lives a gray-bearded man who has turned back time,” wrote Harold Peterson. “At Five Mile Bar, beyond which no human soul dwells, Jedediah Smith and Christopher Carson have but recently passed by, and the year is 1844 forever.” Born Sylvan Hart in Oklahoma Territory in 1906, Buckskin was a mountain man at heart and in his craft: resourceful, independent and artistic. From ornate carvings on hand-made knives and guns bored with a homemade machine, to mining and smelting copper and creating tools and utensils, he had a knack for living off the land.
Illustration by Kelsey Dzintars
Buckskin spent more than 40 years living on his Salmon River homestead, fishing, hunting wild elk and bear, mining gold and copper, making wine from local fruit, and cultivating an elaborate 10,000-squarefoot garden. Those who met Buckskin on the river knew him as an odd and humorous man. The rangers who frequented the Salmon gave him his nickname, after the handmade deer hide clothing he wore with the hair on the inside, next to his skin. Rumor has it, the smell from the tanned skin clothing was quite rank, justifying the alias “Buckskin Bill.”
Buckskin built a stone watchtower on the hillside above his cabin, defending the homestead from government acquisition and U.S. Forest Service enforcement. Inset: View of the Main Salmon River from the watchtower. Photos by Megan Paulson
The oldest of six children, Buckskin was averse to civilization even as a boy. He left Oklahoma during the Great Depression to work in the Texas oilfields, then earned an English degree at the University of Oklahoma and began a master's program in petroleum engineering, but never finished.
In 1932, at age 26, he traveled with his father to Five Mile Bar on the Salmon River from McCall, Idaho, which required a two-and-a-half hour drive to the old mining town of Warren, then a 14-hour hike over 20 miles of rugged trail. They bought 50 acres of land for $1 and lived there a number of years before the elder Hart left, seeking a connection to society. During World War II, Buckskin tried to enlist in the Army, but medical exams found an enlarged heart, so he worked instead as a civilian at the Boeing factory in Kansas. Returning to Five Mile Bar not long after, he settled for good on the banks of the Salmon. When a conservation movement led by Howard Zahniser in 1956 tried to designate the area surrounding the homestead a Primitive Area, precluding human habitation, Buckskin built a stone watchtower on the hillside above his cabin to defend against government acquisition and U.S. Forest Service enforcement. While much of the land became designated Wilderness in the Wilderness Act of 1964, the feds left Buckskin alone, and he lived at the outpost until his death in 1980. To this day, the watchtower and the compound’s hand-hewn log cabins, root cellar and underground bomb shelter remain intact, maintained as a museum for floaters on the Salmon River. Visiting the mountain man’s home today, one can sense Buckskin’s presence and understand the pride he must have felt living in this remote and beautiful place.
Above: Buckskin’s collection of hand-made tools Below: Just a few of Buckskin Bill’s animal skulls
Visit Buckskin Bill Buckskin’s compound at Five Mile Bar is a must-stop while rafting the Main Salmon River, Idaho. Visitors can see the homestead of 40 years, outbuildings, gardens and many of his hand-made tools and equipment. Tips: Grab a Black Butte Porter Ice Cream Float from the gift shop. Watch the 1963 ABC Wide World of Sports video at the museum to see Buckskin Bill shoot his handmade, 3-gauge rifle and ammunition. It literally knocks him off his seat. Jot down Buckskin’s famous sourdough starter mix from his hand-written recipe in the old cabin. Buckskin recommends fresh huckleberries for the topping.
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Buckskin Bill spent more than 40 years living on his Salmon River homestead, fishing, hunting wild elk and bear, mining gold and copper, making wine from local fruit, and cultivating an elaborate 10,000-squarefoot garden.
Photo by Buddy Mays
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T H E A L LU R E O F T H E RO C K I E S
“It was nearing dusk
and time for the horses to be brought in for the night. I circled around the pasture calling for them to herd up and head toward the corrals. As they began to gather, the sheer rock face framed them from behind, until they began to run. I caught stride behind them, the sky in front was purple, the mountain peaks so jagged and the freshly cut hay field stretched for half a mile ahead; their hooves pounding in the silence.
I was overwhelmed by freedom…”
Aust I n R ec toR President of Stoa Management Notes from Wyoming, 2009
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Published on Jun 3, 2013
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