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Issue 5.3





In my gokite office, there’s a milepost shelf. roadmap

graphiccontent gosurf outthere gohunt On that shelf, sits an orb. And in the orb, rests my father — or at least some of his ashes — floating in a swirl of blue, green and amber that looks a lot like Earth from space. Fitting, since that was probably his favorite view.


Between 1984 and ’95, he orbited our planet for a total of 29 days, broken into four different missions. Each launch he carried small items for my brother and me to keep. Once, he wore a pair of digital watches — one on each wrist. (A quaint yet functional homage to the pre-digital age when astronauts still wore two timepieces.) Another time it was pens that wrote upside down. (Cue the Seinfeld jokes.) For his final mission, he carried up a folded magazine cover from my first writing gig. I’d just moved to Florida; he was making regular trips to Cape Canaveral to train with his crew. Every visit, we’d rendezvous in Cocoa Beach, drop a car behind the world’s largest surf shop, then race off to the nearest restaurant to eat, drink and — best of all — argue. Mostly about politics.

These debates were fierce. Relentless. But they were never angry. And not one of them ever degraded into insults or party-line pablum. He knew you don’t win an argument by belittling someone’s intelligence or deflecting blame. If you couldn’t defend your position, you lost. Period.

Issues — like objects — have more than just two sides.

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I usually lost. Dad was as comfortable navigating the most nuanced philosophical ether as he was cruising through the atmosphere. He remained as strategic and surgical in his verbal strikes as he was in a fighter jet. And he always retained the element of surprise — because his points evolved depending on the context. (A Vietnam vet, he had no love for draft dodgers who fled the country — yet he respected Muhammad Ali, who stood his political ground then took the consequences square on the chin.) But more than just attack, he would listen. Acquiescing to strong points. Savaging weak ones. Most importantly, he would poke and prod every idea to make sure that I’d fully considered its value — and wasn’t just parroting the latest Utne Reader. (Or High Times.) Then he’d use my own ignorance to unseat me — and simultaneously educate me in the process.

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When I vainly predicted humans would destroy the planet, he scoffed: “Son, take it from someone who’s seen it: we may kill ourselves — and countless other species — but the Earth’s not going anywhere for millions of years.” When I was arrogant enough to spout about the “sanctity of human life” during an anti-war rant, he simply said, “Nobody appreciates the sanctity of human life as much as someone who’s taken it.” He wasn’t bragging. He was just reminding me that issues — like objects — have more than two sides. They go beyond good and bad. Right and wrong. That your view depends mostly on personal perspective. And that only by spinning them round and round repeatedly, can you get the full picture. In these troubled times, when political adversaries trade Twitter barbs instead of parsing policy — and people cling to platforms they’ve never inspected firsthand — Dad’s glass orb feels more precious than ever. And when I hold it, I feel the true weight of his loss. He taught me to be firm in your values, but flexible in your approach. That every person’s belief system carries its own gravity. And that only by periodically untying yourself and pulling back as far as possible, can you appreciate a complex world for what it really is — and not just what you think it is. — Matt Walker

Thank you for reading Outer Banks Milepost. We hope you’ve enjoyed it. If not — before chucking this issue in the nearest dumpster — please consider one of the following equally satisfying ways of expressing your disgust: stuff it in a bottle and drop it overboard for some future beachcomber to throw in the trash; make 3-D origami of your least favorite politician and then beat the hell out of it. Or simply add it to that six-month stack of newspapers you’ve yet to recycle. (Trust us: you’ll feel better.) Then, send any and all feedback — positive, negative or just plain confused — to: editor@outerbanksmilepost.com. Or light us up on Facebook with your opinions and ideas. We promise to find some way to re-purpose them. milepost 3

“America is full of metaphysical outlaws.” — Tom Robbins “Talk to the tree. Make friends with it.” — Bob Ross

Issue 5.3 Fall 2016 Cover: Rock, paper, choppers. Photo: Chris Bickford Reader You Brushes & Ink Carnell Boyle, John Butler, George Cheeseman, Marcia Cline, Carolina Coto, Michael J. Davis, Fay Davis Edwards, Mary Edwards, Laine Edwards, Travis Fowler, Dawn Gray, Amelia Kasten, Chris Kemp, Dave Lekens, Ben Miller, Ben Morris, Holly Nettles, Rick Nilson, Stuart Parks II, Charlotte Quinn, Meg Rubino, Shirley Ruff, Stephen Templeton, Mike Zafra Lensfolk Nate Appel, Matt Artz, Chris Bickford, Russell Blackwood, Don Bower, Aycock Brown, Mark Buckler, Jon Carter, Rich Coleman, Chris Creighton, Amy Dixon, Lori Douglas, Julie Dreelin, Tom Dugan/ESM, Roy Edlund, Bryan Elkus, Cory Godwin Chris Hannant, Bryan Harvey, Ginger Harvey, Anthony Leone, Jeff Lewis, Jared Lloyd, Matt Lusk, Ray Matthews, Brooke Mayo, Mickey McCarthy, Roger Meekins, Dick Meseroll/ESM, Ryan Moser, Rob Nelson, Crystal Polston, Daniel Pullen, Ryan Rhodes, Terry Rowell, Tom Sloate, DJ Struntz, Aimee Thibodeau, Eve Turek, Chris Updegrave, Cyrus Welch, Jay Wickens Penfolk Ashley Bahen, Amelia Boldaji, Sarah Downing, Paul Evans, Laura Gomez-Nichols, Jim Gould, Sarah Hyde, Catherine Kozak, Katrina Leuzinger, Dan Lewis, Fran Marler, Matt Pruett, Mary Ellen Riddle, Sandy Semans, Julie Southard, Shannon Sutton, Kip Tabb, Michelle Wagner, Hannah Bunn West, Clumpy White, Natalie Wolfe, Michele Young-Stone

On your next visit to the Outer Banks, relive the first one.

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editor@outerbanksmilepost.com • sales@outerbanksmilepost.com Outer Banks Milepost is published quarterly (sorterly) by Suite P Inc. All contents are the property of Suite P Inc. and do not reflect the opinion of advertisers or distributors. Nor do their contents reflect that of the creative types (who would never, ever sell out). Comments, letters and submissions are usually welcome. Please include SASE for return delivery of all snail mail, however, Milepost and Suite P Inc. still aren’t responsible for any unsolicited materials. And don’t expect much else to move much faster than IST (Island Standard Time). Oh yeah: if you reprint a lick of this content you’re ripping us off. (Shame on you.) To discuss editorial ideas, find out about advertising or tell us we blew it – or just find out what the waves are doing – call 252-441-6203 or email: editor@outerbanksmilepost.com; sales@outerbanksmilepost.com. www.outerbanksmilepost.com

Outer Banks

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03 StartingPoint Pro spin zone. 06 UpFront Capital power grabs, homegrown potatoes and a whole grip of personal items. 20 GetActive Viva Mano al Hermano! 23 FirstPerson Jeff Myers’ Sante Fe seduction. 24 QuestionAuthority Meet the latest fashion in forecast models.


26 Exit Strategy Thinking of pulling the ripcord after this year’s election? Better start looking for a place to land.


36 GraphicContent National landmarks get totally trademarked.

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38 Still. Life. Five inanimate objects with spectacular bios. 50 GoPirate Weekend at Blackbeard’s. 52 GoMustang Mike Dianna’s magical mystery tour. 55 FoodDrink You’ll eat these pricks for dinner. “Yellow Bicycle I” By Mary Edwards www.maryedwardswatercolors.com “This bicycle kind of painted itself. Because I live near the water, it’s a natural consequence that I would paint nautical things. Either seascapes or beach houses or lighthouses or piers. But when someone is really passionate about a certain subject, it becomes contagious. I catch their enthusiasm. And my son loves bicycles. He goes on bicycle tours and collects different kinds. I’d always wanted to paint one of his favorites, so I had him send me some pictures. I painted two different versions of the same bike. Both were very detailed, very time consuming. And they’re the total opposite of everything I’ve done — the colors, the setting, everything. But I just kept thinking about my son and his passion for bicycles — and then I went along for a ride.” — Mary Edwards

57 S oundCheck Less worky, more Quirky. 58 ArtisticLicense The magnetic Mary Edwards. 60 RearView A not-so-gentle reminder. 63 OutThere Bramble on. 64 EndNotes The final words on fall.

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upfront soundcheck TAKING LIBERTIES

HB 2 was just the latest in a series of state power grabs.


Talk about a branding misfire. If North Carolina was once the picture of natural beauty and Southern hospitality, we’re now the face of backwards rubes with a pee-pee fixation and a hatred for gay people. All thanks to HB 2. The so-called “bathroom bill” first made negative headlines this spring for forcing transgender people to use the toilet assigned to the sex on their birth certificate — and kept causing problems all summer long.

Pridefest is facing backlash. “LGBT tourists are

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It started with a number of big-league boycotts by corporations (Pay Pal, Hewlett Packard), bands (Bruce Springsteen, Pearl Jam) and other governments. (Both New York and DC stopped funding travel to the Tarheel State.) By late July, it was major league sports, as the NBA made good on their threat to pull NC’s claim to the 2017 All-Star Game, stating, “While we recognize that the NBA cannot choose the law in every city, state, and country in which we do business, we do not believe we can successfully host our All-Star festivities in Charlotte in the climate created by HB 2.”

beach resorts in surrounding states,” says PrideFest founder David Miller, who notes their Facebook page was lit up by livid former attendees. “Even though we are safe and inviting for all, they will not look past the headlines. And they end up hurting the causes they actually want to support.”

The irony? The legislature wrote HB 2 in response to Charlotte passing an ordinance granting LGBT citizens the same “protected status” as other minorities. Now, the city’s being punished to the tune of $100 million in lost revenue — along with many other gay-friendly tourism destinations, including the Outer Banks, where even the annual

With the federal government suing — and NC fighting back — the bad press could drag out through November and cost the state even more millions. But while late night talk hosts and lay people go ga-ga over gonads — and Governor McCrory claims North Carolina’s merely responding

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to “over-reaching” liberal legislators — the real power grab is on the part of the state. And its impact goes way beyond bathrooms and pocket books — and all the way into courtrooms and town councils.

“The state tried to defend HB 2 by painting Charlotte’s transgender protections as a radical step,” says Mike Meno of the American Civil Liberties Union. “But the truth is 18 states and 200 municipalities Serving Local Seafood, Natural Proteins, Gourmet Burgers and Pizzas Gluten Free, Vegetarian & Vegan Dishes ECLECTIC WINES, COCKTAILS, MICRO BREWS & IMPORTS ON TAP

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across the country — including places like Myrtle Beach and Columbia, South Carolina — have had these protections for years with no problems. And while the most well known provision in HB 2 restricted bathroom use based on a person’s gender as listed on their birth certificate, the law is much broader.” How broad? Let’s start with discrimination lawsuits. Before HB 2, any person who felt they’d been wrongly terminated because of their race, age, gender, religion, or sexual orientation had three years to file a complaint in North Carolina courts. Now they only have one. (And HB 2 in its original form eliminated the ability to use state courts altogether, leaving more expensive federal lawsuits as the only recourse.) Furthermore, the law also preempts and invalidates any existing local nondiscrimination laws seeking to protect LGBT people in public accommodations — and keeps municipalities from strengthening protections for any “protected class” of people. It also limits local authority in terms of employment — including restricting a town’s ability to raise the minimum wage. In each case, HB 2 subverts local governments from making their own decisions. And it all went through Raleigh with almost no public debate. “This is an extremely damaging law that legislators forced through in a matter of 12 hours,” says Meno. “But what HB 2 really does is strip the ability of municipalities and their constituents to make the decisions they think are best for them.”

It’s just the latest example. When Chatham and Stokes counties passed anti-fracking laws in August 2015, Raleigh responded with HB 119, which says any local legislation that attempts to regulate the exploration of oil and gas are “invalidated and unenforceable.” Now, no town or county can say “no” to fracking. And this spring, legislators tried to keep local governments from saying “yes” to renewable energy, by adding extra regulations to wind and solar farms.

“They’re saying, ‘We know better in Raleigh than you do in Manteo.’”

“HB 763 would prohibit wind energy development in large swaths of the state,” says Cassie Gavin, Director of Government Affairs for North Carolina Sierra Club. “And SB 843 would’ve basically stopped all wind and solar [in North Carolina] for all intents and purposes.” Noted for recommending some of the harshest restrictions in any state, SB 843 requires all solar and wind farms to be 1.5 miles from any roads. That’s nearly 40 times the setbacks required for hazardous waste landfills — and 15 greater than those for hog waste lagoons — all while keeping turbine noise to under a whisper for your next door neighbors. Meanwhile, HB 763 — aka the Military


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Operations Protection Act — promises to protect flight paths by keeping wind farms away from the state’s many bases, even though Department of Defense had no prior knowledge of the bill or input on the maps.

where there’s no expectation of privacy. Why should I have to file a lawsuit to get footage of my son’s arrest, when someone could record the same thing on their cell phone?”

SB 843 never made it out of committee. HB 763 was left in limbo when the legislature left town. But neither proposal is really dead.

In an age where public officials increasingly refuse to talk to reporters, access to video records is often the only way to get both sides of the story. But it goes deeper than issues of freedom of the press. Many police departments, including Fayetteville, Greenville and Burlington, want the ability to issue footage to promote transparency and build trust with communities. Now they will need to ask a judge for permission.

“It’s important to note that when we say something didn’t pass this session, it just didn’t come to a vote,” says Gavin. “We saw a lot of ideas left on the table that are likely to come back in 2017.” And while none of these bills got the same attention as HB 2, they still follow the same battle plan: hog-tie local government’s ability to make its own decisions by passing a larger, more powerful state law. The same goes for HB 972. This second-most high-profile piece of summer legislation officially blocks release of all police dash-cam and body-cam footage to the public. Before, dash-cam recordings were considered public record and officers could release their own body-cam footage. Now, a judge must approve the release of both. Even the people being charged with a crime will need a court order to see film of them getting arrested. “If you take it that the policy behind the public records law is to grant the public access to the records that they helped pay to create,” says Mike Tadych, counsel to the North Carolina Press Association, “and that transparency and accountability are its hallmarks, [this law] turns that policy wholly on its head — especially for dash cams,

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“[HB972] is along the lines of HB 2 in that the legislature wanted uniformity,” says Tadych. “They’re saying, ‘We know better in Raleigh than you do in Manteo.’” But do they really? And is “uniformity” really the benchmark we want for making laws? Isn’t that the very argument against big government — that states know what’s best for their citizens? And if states should be able to make their own decisions, shouldn’t towns be able to decide who and what they need protecting from? Apparently not. As Meno points out, “There’s no shortage of steps our legislation has taken to remove power from local governments. HB 2 is just the most prominent example.” So, stop sweating who’s squatting in the next stall — and start worrying about who’s standing up for you in the capitol building. Because when it comes to random strangers taking liberties, that’s where the real danger lies. — Matt Walker

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HOME GROWN soundcheck

Sweet potatoes or yams (there are scores of varieties) are thought to have originated in Central and South America. They were growing when Christopher Columbus came poking around the New World, and he took samples back to Spain. Portuguese traders introduced the sweet potato to West Africa. The root crop spread eastward to Asia, but also made its way westward from Peru to Polynesia to New Zealand.

How the Outer Banks delivered its own brand of sweet potato. getactive

Did you know that North Carolina’s state vegetable is the sweet potato? The Tar Heel State leads the nation in production of the root crop, and nothing ushers in the coming of autumn like buying a big box of tubers at a roadside stand or farmer’s market. For less than $20, a carton will last through football get-togethers, pig pickins and other assorted seasonal potlucks, and carry straight through Thanksgiving and into the holiday. ( Just make sure to stock up on marshmallows or coconut and pecans.)

By 1648, historical records show Virginia farmers cultivating sweet potatoes; by 1723, they were part of Carolina’s countryside, where they became an important food source, feeding Americans through tough times, like the Revolutionary and Civil Wars, and on through the Great Depression.

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But on the Outer Banks, one variety stands apart — the Hayman sweet potato. Known more locally as a KDH beach access or public park, the name’s first claim to fame is for this tasty, white-skinned yam, first brought to the East Coast by a local captain, before making its way into recipes and pies further north.


But the introduction of the Hayman sweet potato — also referred to as the Hayman potato — dates back to 1859. That’s when Captain Daniel Hayman sailed the schooner Sally Smith through Hatteras Inlet, up the sounds, and along the Pasquotank River to Elizabeth


“On the Eastern Shore they are kind of a well-kept secret,” says Lorraine Eaton, staff epicure at the Virginian Pilot newspaper. “They love their Hayman sweet potatoes.”



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City with a barrel of white sweet potatoes he had brought from the West Indies. The event was recorded by John Rollison, Frisco resident, Hatteras Island native, and journal keeper, who was at that time Collector of Revenue for the Port of Hatteras. (Other goods Hayman carried included three puncheons of molasses, 900 oranges, four bottles of gin, and a barrel of sugar.)

In 1919, Joe Tom Daniels of Wanchese reportedly grew one nearly three feet in length.

Now, Cap’n Hayman was a seafaring man, as were his neighbors Willis Partridge, Bird Beasley, and his brother Matthias Hayman. He made his home near Kitty Hawk when he wasn’t sailing between the Outer Banks and the Caribbean. When he was back in port, Hayman made up for his time at sea by planting seeds of a different sort. (A blurb in Elizabeth City’s Economist and Falcon newspaper — printed just months before his death in September 1891 — claimed he fathered more than 30 children between two wives.) But the sweet potato that bears his name remains his most celebrated offspring.

C.W. Hollowell, of Bayside Plantation south of Elizabeth City, and later owner of the Nags Head Hotel, described the tuber’s virtue for the Farmer and Mechanic newspaper in 1877: “We consider it quite an acquisition to our potato crop, as we have less trouble in getting the sprouts to live when set out than any other variety we have here. They grow rapidly, mature early, and will afford more food for hogs than any crop I can plant on the same ground.”

While we usually think of sweet potatoes as orange in color, the Hayman sweet potato has white skin and a creamy flesh that can appear grayish to greenish when raw. It was grown locally for a number of years and could be found in markets in the Albemarle area, Raleigh and Norfolk. In fact, in 1919, Joe Tom Daniels of Wanchese reportedly grew one nearly three feet in length. But almost as soon as the Hayman sweet potato found its way to North Carolina, it was destined for a new market. A travelling Methodist minister (they were known to take advantage of maritime routes) came into possession of the first batch of Hayman taters, and transported some to the Eastern Shore, the sliver of Maryland and Virginia separated from the mainland by the Chesapeake Bay. While researching over the years, Eaton has come across many old handwritten recipes using the heirloom Haymans. She says outside of the Delmarva peninsula they aren’t very well known, but they remain an autumn tradition along the Eastern Shore. “People usually buy them by the box,” she explained. “They need to cure a while, and people say they should be eaten by St. Patrick’s Day. They are a funny potato.” — Sarah Downing Sources include: “MacNeill Uncovers Hayman Potato Story in Old Book Kept by Hatteras Mariner,” Coastland Times, December 17, 1954; “Grows Sweet Potato Nearly a Yard Long,” Elizabeth City Independent, November 21, 1919; Sweet Potato Culture for Profit, by Robert Henderson Price, Texas Farm and Ranch Publishing Company, Dallas, 1896; “Sweet Potato History: Did you know?” by Carl Cantaluppi, North Carolina Cooperative Extension Service website, accessed June 17, 2016; US Census, 1860, Currituck County, North Banks District; Interview with Lorraine Eaton, June 10, 2016.

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upfront soundcheck getactive startingpoint roadmap A cheering, jeering gokite look at recent events and their potential milepost impacts

JUST THE TIP? After promising to take things slow, Nags Head pounced on the tourism board’s late-May proposal to enclose the Soundside Event Site’s open-air pavilion — even stripping away some cumbersome parking rules — in order to woo more offseason suitors. Budgets won’t allow the bureau to start plowing away for at least four years, but lovers of open space already feel violated. OPEN THE FLOODGATES Looks like Currituck will waterslide into next summer, as the county approved a $45 million dollar aquatic park that will fill 80 acres with pools, lazy rivers, rides, and other adventures up to 110 feet — using 76,000 gallons per day to soak up some 5,000

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visitors. That’s a lot of extra gridlock just over the bridge, but if the Flowrider keeps one VB wavehog from reaching the lineup, it’s worth it.

announced plans to remove the beloved structure this winter. Built in 1962, the spindly-legged landmark took lots of belts — including Isabel’s landfall in 2003 — before closing in 2008. Still, she remained HEALTHY GLOW? a favorite source of fun and shade — and July’s Pokemon Go craze lit up newsfeeds and smart phones as people swarmed the beach now a significant source of grief over her impending doom. to catch digital “pocket monsters.” It wasn’t all fun and games — some drivers reported NARCAN DO nearly hitting distracted pedestrians; the If every cloud has a silver lining, then maybe aquarium noted overzealous explorers after hours — but at least local businesses the same goes for drug epidemics. Starting and landmarks got a few extra visits. And last Dec., more than 80 Dare County police Vitamin-D deficient teens grabbed some officers received training in administering time in the sun. (Even if they still kept their Naxolene — aka Narcan — a drug that faces pressed to a screen.) reverses the effects of an opioid overdose. In May, two KDH cops saved a man found A DISAPPOINTED BRIDGE drooped over his steering wheel. Then in There’s no way James Joyce was thinking of July, a Manteo policeman responded to a Frisco when he penned the world’s best resident’s 911 call. Both victims survived. pier description. But Hatteras Islanders can Let’s hope their addictions don’t. appreciate the sentiment, since the NPS

CASTLES MADE OF SAND Fans of rustic Carova thought they’d scored a victory in July when a judge halted construction on a 20,000 square-foot event home, saying the 50-person structure wasn’t a “single-family dwelling.” (At least not outside Utah.) Currituck then announced a public hearing on restrictions for Corolla houses over 5000 square feet at their Aug. 1 meeting — only to have the item magically disappear from the agenda. If it stays gone for good, we’ll know exactly who melted. GARDEN OF BLEEDIN’ Hatteras Island is becoming a skater’s paradise, as Buxton’s Fessenden Center unveiled a new concrete bowl to replace its old wooden ramps. Meanwhile, Rodanthe’s planning its own shred garden, offering more street-style features. Put the two together for multiple ways to grind away the hours and cope with the offseason. ( Just remember: plywood gives; cement takes.)

THE NAKED TRUTH Saying the Coastal Resource Commission’s science panel has been “subtly defrocked and is now an ineffective body,” co-founder Stan Riggs quit in July, citing a series of politically charged decisions — including studies on sea level rise and the rezoning of flood maps. To some, Riggs was an environmental hero — to others, an anti-development bully. But before you cheer his departure, consider these chilling comments from his resignation letter: “political actions threaten the future viability of NC’s coastal economy” and “compromise the local villages and their citizens” — then ask: who’s gonna speak truth to power? BUFFER? WE HARDLY KNOW ’ER! Less than a year into their implementation, Cape Hatteras’ smaller buffers — and increased corridors — led to the earliest re-opening of Cape Point since 2012. Not only did ORVs and pedestrians enjoy access

nearly a month sooner, May’s closure was late by a couple weeks, meaning the Point was shut down to humans for just 11 weeks — 10 weeks fewer than the previous two years. POLL REPOSITIONING Get ready to race to the voting booth! Turns out you no longer need a driver’s license to cast a ballot this Nov. In late July, federal courts struck down NC’s controversial law that required a state-issued I.D. and shortened the window for early voting (among other dick moves designed to disenfranchise young people and minorities.) It also brings back same-day registration, drawing cheers from anyone who believes in voters’ rights. (Or fewer trips to the DMV.) For detailed reports on many of these stories and breaking local news on a daily basis — plus page after page of local discussion — visit www.outerbanksvoice. com, www.obsentinel.com and www.islandfreepress.org.

SMART-ASS COMMENT OF THE MONTH “It will never be better than the Surf Slide.” — Barry Brockaway, “Water park in lower Currituck plans opening next summer,” July 27, 2016, Outer Banks Voice.com

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upfront soundcheck

the one personal item you’d grab WHADDYA RECKON? “What’s in the middle of a Cat-5 storm?”

We got questions — you got answers. getactive Aaric Bowser, 26 Butcher KDH “First thought? With the walls coming down and I have just a few seconds? My laptop. It’s got all my info and important files.”

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LeeAnn McGraw, 22 Horse Trainer Southern Shores “To me everything’s replaceable. But I do have a gold bracelet my great grandfather gave my great grandma with their initials engraved in it. If there’s anything I was going to grab, it would be that.”

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Charley Meyer, 22 Fishing Equipment Retail KDH “I’d grab all my handmade, custom fishing rods and compound bow. I don’t have a reason for living if I don’t have those things.”

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Kyle Forbes, 30 Restaurant Owner Southern Shores “I have this old tie bag, like a Crown Royal bag, that was my grandfather’s from Vietnam. It has this small 6-shooter pistol and a couple of rounds that were his. I also have a sports card collection, but that’s just money — the pistol means a bit more.”

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rearview Taylor Harris, 17 Deli Man Kitty Hawk “Everything I have can be replaced, but if I had time my bodyboard would be coming with me.”

Derik Wineland, 33 Business Owner Kitty Hawk “I have a ton of almost irreplaceable records. I’d probably grab the first press of Michael Jackson’s Thriller — or my limitedrun Nirvana 45 of a show in Ann Arbor. Only 400 of those were ever made.”

Jessica Wineland, 38 Business Owner Kitty Hawk “It’s a toss up between the family silver and my engagement ring, which I rarely wear so I don’t lose it. Tough choice, but I’d pick the engagement ring.”

Joanne Hayes, 55 Retail Colington “My jewelry box would be the only thing I might go back and save. Maybe my bottle of coconut rum — I’d probably need a drink after that!” Interviews and images by Tony Leone

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2016 election getactive online SURVIVal guide startingpoint soundcheck

NCVOTERGUIDE.ORG If you’re gonna complain, you better be voting. NCVoterguide.org will give you all the necessary info to turn your boisterous views into an actual ballot: from issue guides for all state races to profiles for candidates around the state to locations and times for early voting in Dare County. (We just got ourselves an extra week.) You can also request absentee ballots by Nov. 1 and learn about all the recent changes regarding Voter IDs. You can even sign up for text alerts regarding election updates. If nothing else, be sure you’re registered to vote. (Or be willing to hold your tongue for at least the next four years.)

Turn the world-wide web of lies into a web of truth.


You’d think the Internet would be God’s gift to political awareness. Instead, it’s Satan’s spin zone. A Hellish mess of misinformation and unbridled ignorance, where every candidate is pure evil. (Unless it’s your candidate.) As the election trainwreck careens toward November, remember to step off Facebook and make regular stops at the following, reliable information stations. You might find a little light in all the darkness.



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All politicians fudge facts. So how do you sift the king-sized box of whoppers from the sweet little nothings? Research. Most news organizations will update along the campaign trail, but for ongoing BS-detection down to the dirtiest detail, Politifact.com leads the pack. This Pulitzer-winning project by the Tampa Bay Times plugs everything, from speech gaffes to detailed policies to viral posts, into a “Truth-o-meter,” gauging every statement along a fully searchable spectrum. (True, Mostly True, Mostly False, False, etc.) It’s also organized by name, so you can compare candidates’ records on keeping it real. Or just click “Pants on Fire” for steaming piles from both sides of the aisle. And while the site’s own level of “truthiness” has been debated by pundits, it remains the strongest game in town for exposing weak arguments.

What’s “dark money”? It’s the dough that flows into our elections from political non-profit groups who aren’t required to disclose their donors. It can also include Super PACs, which have to disclose their donors — but can raise unlimited funds from non-profits and shell companies who remain anonymous. Between 2004 and 2012, dark money contributions grew from $5.9 million to $308.7 million. Early figures for 2016 suggest this campaign will be ten times higher than 2012. All that cash goes toward ads and polls that influence voters in ways we might not fully understand if we don’t know their sources. That’s where Opensecrset.org comes in. This website breaks down the various PACs and their real agendas — as well as the revolving door between lobbies and the capital — to shine a light on all those shady dealings.

Ready to take your financial factchecking skills from Snopes to snoops? Followthemoney.org provides financial contribution data for all 50 states, breaking down every race from U.S. Congress to Governor. But the juiciest insights are in the smaller state races. Just click on “My District,” type in your zip code and find out exactly who’s funding our regional candidates’ races to Raleigh. It might be Duke Energy — or another politician with some extra dough. It could be a big, private donor from ten states away — or your best enemy from down the block. Find out which fishing groups are chumming the waters — or if that loudmouth neighbor puts his money where his yard sign is. They’re all listed to show who, when and how much. Add it up, and you’ll find out real quick who’s a puppet — and who’s pulling their strings.

If you can’t beat ’em — jibe ’em. The primary fodder for Facebook feuds, Memegenerator.net rouses supporters, riles opponents — and drives clueless debate — one snarky, pop culture reference at a time. Automatic weapons kill dolphins? Legal pot makes you smarter? New Order really is the new world order? Any statement sounds legit when you paste in all caps across a picture of Jean Luc Picard, Dr. Evil, Willy Wonka or “Bad Luck Brian.” (Too bad none of them are running.) Pick from the day’s most popular characters or create your own soon-to-be-viral, dumbeddown graphic — then select from four different languages to insult multiple cultures. It may not sway opinion, but neither will any of those silly “facts” you’ve found. And at least you’ll get a few laughs in the process. (Lord knows we all need ‘em this year.)

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upfront That’s a different story.


Professional freediver, Ashley Futral Chapman, stands on the wreckage of NC’s AR386. Photo: DJ Struntz

Fifty or 60 years ago there were millions of cars in the US, and every vehicle had at least four tires. That was a lot of old rubber with no place to go. The thought at the time was: Dump them in the ocean, link them together, put ballast in them so they don’t float away, and create an artificial reef.

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It didn’t work for a variety of reasons. Once connecting materials degraded, the tires broke off and washed up on beaches; tires that shed their ballast but remained linked together would scour the bottom — the opposite of an artificial reef’s whole purpose. Even when structurally sound, chemicals used in tire production can leach into the environment.

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RESURRECTION REEF graphiccontent Old Bonner Bridge to enjoy everlasting life underwater.


The problem with trash is figuring out what to do with it. Eighteen pounds of refuse? Just take a walk to the garbage can or a trip to a landfill. Eighty tons? That’s a little more challenging. And that sums up the dilemma currently facing state engineers as they build a new Bonner Bridge: how do you dispose of the old one?

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Disassembling the structure and hauling the rubble is very expensive. (Roughly $10 million according to NCDOT’s 2012 Bonner Bridge Transportation Management Plan.) It’s also wasteful, which is why project engineers from PCL Construction, who designed the new bridge, are proposing recycling the old bridge into something different: an artificial reef.


Actually several artificial reefs, as they’re looking to scatter the span’s bones onto four existing conglomerations of material that currently lie off the Outer Banks. Piled up over the past three decades — and

labeled AR 130, AR 140, AR 145, and AR 160 — they run from roughly the north end of Duck to an area about six miles south of Oregon Inlet. And since it costs PCL less to haul the material into the sea than dispose it in landfills, the idea will actually save the state money. “It’s a great savings going to the taxpayers,” Jason Peters, Artificial Reef Coordinator for NC Division of Marine Fisheries says. “It’s a massive enhancement project, [but] it’s a fairly straightforward process. They’ll remove the asphalt and rebar. Cut it into…sections. It’s all done to EPA guidelines.” There was a time when there were no environmental restrictions. After all, America’s first artificial reef predated the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) by 140 years. Constructed off South Carolina in the 1830s from abandoned log huts, that experiment probably would have passed muster. Attempts from the 1950s and 60s?

All of that was noted in a 2012 review of artificial reef materials, done for the NOAA Office of National Marine Sanctuaries, which stated: “Leaching of petrochemical or heavy metal toxicants is possible; un-ballasted tires are unstable; properly ballasted tires are more expensive and difficult to handle.” Along with rubber, any number of random objects made their way to the seafloor with various degrees of success: old refrigerators, stoves, cars, sunken ships, aircraft. In fact, the military once donated a few thousand obsolete tanks to create reefs. Even now, the structures off the Outer Banks consist of boxcars, barges and chunks of the old Washington Baum Bridge. In 300 years, an incredible array of material will have marine archeologists scratching their heads, wondering, “What were they thinking?” But while many of the old-school artificial reef ideas are now prohibited by the Army Corps of Engineers, concrete is a stable compound that can last for centuries. Furthermore, Bonner Bridge rubble is considered ideal. “This is unique concrete,” Peters says. “Very clean.” Even so, it’s not simply a matter of dropping chunks of pavement off a barge. Artificial reefs have various uses, which determine the materials and where they will be placed. (The requirements for these reefs are considerably different from those

cars, ships, aircraft — they’ve all made their way to the seafloor.

constructed in Outer Banks sounds, which are used to enhance oyster production and spawning areas for fish.) And there is other exclusionary criteria to consider when choosing a site, from water depth to bottom bathymetry.

“It cannot be an impediment to commercial activity,” says Peters. “Trawlers are what we’re concerned about. We also look at the existing resource. Is it soft mud or shifting sand? And we use side-scan data and divers to confirm the seabed is what we need. This is really about improving the habitat.” That’s the best news of all. Studies consistently show a boost in the numbers and kinds of marine life in conjunction with artificial reefs. It’s not entirely clear whether increases are the result of a shift from a natural reef to an artificial one, or an actual spike in population, but most research indicates the latter. And eyewitnesses tend to agree. “Any type of structures on the bottom, around it can be a desert of sand,” says longtime diver and underwater photographer, Russell Blackwood, who’s visited artificial reefs and shipwrecks off Hatteras and Ocracoke. “[In the structure] there’s big populations of amber jacks. I have seen Atlantic Spotted Dolphin on the bottom, using it as a nursery.” Don’t suit up yet. While the new reef locations are already mapped, permitted and ready, the old bridge can’t be demolished until the new one is completed. But sometime around late summer or early fall of 2019, the Outer Banks coast will boast even larger — much larger — underwater structures to improve the quality of life for species on both sides of the surface. Marine life will find new habitat. Fishermen and divers can explore fresh options. And a little extra cash trickles back into taxpayers’ pockets. — Kip Tabb milepost 17

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Mano al Hermano strengthens Latinos’ local ties.


Outer Bankers are like one big, happy (occasionally dysfunctional) family. We’ve got our mothers, fathers, brothers, sisters, and even the equivalent of that drunk uncle at Thanksgiving dinner (you know who they are). And like a family, we look out for one another. If one of us falls on hard times, we try our best to help them up again, because we know that our community is stronger as a whole when we help each other. That’s the mission behind Mano al Hermano — or My Hand to My Brother — an organization focused on helping Latinos living on the Outer Banks.



“The more we know about each other, the less fear we’re going to have of one another,” says Ginger Candelora, the executive director of Mano al Hermano. “And the more we’re going to enjoy each other’s cultures and learn from them.” There are over 3,000 Latinos in Dare County, a growing segment that Ginger calls “the hidden workforce of the Outer Banks.” Perhaps they’re “hidden” because a significant portion of them speak little-to-no English, a barrier which can not only cause problems with school and employment opportunities, but can also make it harder milepost


for them to really integrate themselves into our community. That’s why the first goal of Mano al Hermano is “positive integration.” That integration starts with providing free English as a Second Language courses that focus on conversation, reading, writing, and citizenship skills. Starting this year, some of those classes will be held at Manteo and Nags Head Elementary School during the day, so that parents can attend the classes while their kids are in school. But it’s not just the adults that need help. Even though most of our Latino children speak English, having parents who only speak Spanish provides its own set of challenges. Those kids aren’t getting any help with their homework at home, and any notes teachers send may or may not get fully translated for Mom and Dad, depending on its content — and the child in question’s inherent level of mischief. “The parents are doing the best they can, and they want their children to succeed,” says Ginger. “The teachers understand that it’s not necessarily because the parents don’t care about their children. They can’t get involved because they can’t speak the

Planting roots at the Roanoke Island Community Garden. Photo: Billy Candelora

language. Sometimes the parent didn’t even graduate or go to school up to a certain degree, and can’t even read and write in their own language.” That’s where the average citizen can lend a hand. Mano al Hermano volunteers are bridging that gap by tutoring the kids and helping them with their homework after school. They also work with the parents, explaining how the assignments, projects, and report cards work, encouraging them to volunteer in their kids’ classrooms. “Dare County teachers are extremely happy with the increased grades and the confidence of the children,” says Ginger. “It’s working.” Currently, they have 30 volunteers tutoring 130 kids. And while they’re seeing excellent results, there are many more children that still need help. “We have at least 45 people on the waiting list every winter, and then we just don’t even take any more applications,” says Ginger. “We. Need. Volunteers. It’s the

most rewarding volunteer work I’ve ever done in my life, and I’ve done a lot.”

They’re seeing excellent results, but many more children still need help.

But it’s not the only way to bond with our Latino community. Other projects include the Roanoke Island Community Garden, where locals and Latinos work side-by-side, planting seeds and pulling weeds, to reduce grocery costs and source healthy food. And this September 18, Mano al Hermano will celebrate Hispanic Heritage Month by hosting the 3rd annual OBX Latin Festival.

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“The festival is a wonderful, fun way to celebrate Hispanic Heritage month and experience the many cultural gifts that the Latino community brings to our area,” says Ginger. “It is truly an awesome celebration where everyone has a great time.” There’ll be authentic food, live music, fútbol (aka “soccer”), cultural dance performances, craft venders, Zumba lessons, a health fair, and lots of games and activities for the kids including a bounce house. The line-up of performers includes Groupo Extreme de Tierra Caliente, Kautivo, Takiri Folclor Latino, and Tessa. Last year’s festival had over 3,000 attendees, both Latinos and non-Latinos, and they expect an even bigger turnout this year, thanks in part to a sizeable grant from Outer Banks Tourist Bureau. It will be a celebration of everything that makes Hispanic culture great, and an opportunity to bring our Outer Banks family even closer together. — Katrina Mae Leuzinger

Mano al Hermano is a non-profit organization fueled entirely by donations and volunteers. To help with ESL and other programs, contact Mano al Hermano at 252-261-6160 or director@ manoalhermano.com. (Volunteers do not need to be bilingual.) Or come join the fiesta at the OBX Latin Festival, September 18, 11:30am-6pm, at the First Flight Middle School Athletic Fields. Admission is a $2 donation and is free to kids 13 and under. For info and sponsorship opportunities, go to www.manoalhermano.com.

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“Instead of a beach print, give us a piece of road kill.”

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How do you fit Santa Fe’s fine art scene into 400 square feet? Jeff Myers explains.

I’ve always been a huge fan of art. Wherever I go, I bring something back. My home is filled with portraits, photographs, trinkets. Everywhere I look reminds me of how lucky I was to be someplace. But I know my days of being paid to surf and travel are numbered. I needed to figure out: what next? My buddy Paul Brockwell had this vision for a gallery. He’s good friends with an amazing artist from New Mexico named Conrad Kern, so the three of us partnered up on two galleries: one in Santa Fe and one in Kill Devil Hills. They’re both called Legend Nano.

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“Nano” means small. And that’s the idea: to create a space that’s intimate and inspirational, where each piece has space to breathe. There are a lot of cool art galleries


here so we wanted this to be completely unique: the cork flooring, the textured walls, the paint, the lighting — it’s all designed to transport you to a fine art gallery in Santa Fe. So is the work. These are all mid-career artists with works in the city’s best galleries. And it’s safe to say you won’t find our artists anywhere else on the beach. Ashley Binder’s stuff is as close as you’ll get to “Outer Banksy.” Because all she paints is horses. But she specializes in charcoal, drawing a fine line between abstract and realism. Joe Ramiro Garcia’s mixed media incorporates elements from America’s collective childhood — Tootsie Pops, the Wicked Witch of the West, teddy bears, and coke bottles — to create a certain aura of comfort. Andrew Kaplan is

an “urban decay” photographer who breaks into abandoned buildings — old hospitals, old schools, old asylums — with a camera, a taser and a switchblade, to preserve places nobody would ever see. Conrad’s work is my personal favorite. It’s super time-consuming and totally abstract. He puts down multiple layers of paint — layer after layer after layer — then hand-sands down to find the right colors that create his vision. The next step is to work the connection in the other direction. We want to start by hanging local artists and photographers and then give them a chance to show their work in a major art hub. And we really want them to get creative. Instead of a beach print that sells to the masses, give us a piece of road kill. [laughs]

It’s all part of our shrinking world. Thirty years ago, a fancy local liquor drink was a frozen daiquiri. Now you can order the most sophisticated martini on the planet. That’s what we want to do for fine art. And the beauty of a smaller gallery is we can personalize the experience for the customer one appointment at a time. It’s like a tiny farm-to-table restaurant: we make the menu based on what’s fresh. And that’s the thing: in the old days, a beach house was a beach house. People would decorate it with seashells and lighthouses. But the more people live here year-round, they don’t need to be reminded they’re at the beach every second of the day. They can choose what appeals to them. And that art becomes a piece of the Outer Banks. milepost 23

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Joaquin’s wave energy turned this stretch of Kitty Hawk pavement into a not-so-hot mess. Photo: Jon Carter

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The USGS’ Coastal Change Forecast is the latest fashion in gokite storm prediction. Dr. Hilary Stockdon explains how it works — and how the Outer Banks influenced trends.


Hurricane Joaquin never came close to hitting us. But that doesn’t mean he left us unscathed. As the storm tracked east last October, it fed a second system over the southeast that drove wind and flooding across the Carolinas. When the clouds cleared over Kitty Hawk, a huge chunk of NC 12 was missing. And nobody saw it coming — except for the United States Geographical Service. For years, USGS researchers had been applying a “wave run-up” equation to NOAA and National Hurricane Center weather models to figure out when the sea was likely to breach the dune line. With the Army Corps of Engineers just a few miles away, that stretch of beach road beside the Black Pelican provided the perfect place to test the USGS’ new work.

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“We’ve actually been working with the research pier to ground-truth our predictions,” says USGS research oceanographer, Dr. Hilary Stockdon, who wrote the “wave run-up” equation behind the new USGS Coastal Change Forecast. “Now coastal residents will get specific information on an approaching storm, like where erosion will occur, whether sand dunes will be inundated by storm surge, and how high water levels are expected to be at the shoreline.”


Starting this fall, five select regions — including the Outer Banks — can go online and monitor coastal wave action the second a system starts swirling. Residents and visitors can see how their favorite shoreline might behave up to three days in advance. And not just for named storms and nor’easters, but the everyday weather nobody else watches.


“That’s the real value,” says Stockdon. “The in-between storms that Jim Cantore would never pay attention to — but would keep the mayor of Kitty Hawk up at night.”


We asked Dr. Stockdon to discuss the new technology — and its unique ties to the Outer Banks. — Matt Walker Find the Coastal Change Forecast at http://coastal.er.usgs.gov/hurricanes/research/operational-models.php For the Coastal Change Hazards Portal, visit: http://marine.usgs.gov/coastalchangehazardsportal milepost


MILEPOST: How’d this all start? And what’s your role? Dr. Hilary Stockdon: In 2006, I developed an equation for predicting “wave run-up” on sandy beaches. So if you know the offshore wave height and wave period and the slope of the shoreline, you can use it to predict how high the waves will move up the beach. But this new model actually started with S-Turns. At first we were focused on hurricanes. Then, several years ago, we got a call from the National Weather Service in Morehead. They said, “We have this section of road. Sometimes it overwashes— and sometimes not. Can your equation help us predict when that road’s going to go underwater?” So we said, “Sure.” Then the next question became: how can we run the model in a 72-hour forecast mode so we can provide locals with ongoing information? How does it work? By adding this wave run-up component to existing NOAA and National Hurricane Center wave models, we can predict the total water level — not just the tide and storm surge but wave run-up. So surge might raise water levels a meter at the coast, but on top of that you have the run-up: big waves breaking and sending the water up and down and up and down. That wave component is what brings that water up to the dunes — and sometimes over the dunes. And that’s the part that has traditionally been missing when people look to predict the impacts of storms on coastlines. So, storm surge is the big, moving blanket of water; wave run-up is like the rippling fringe on that front. And the idea is you look at all that to see when you have a chance of a breach? Yes. But we’re actually focused on three types of coastal change. The first one is dune erosion; so when waves and surge reach the elevation of the base of the sand dune, that’s when dune erosion is likely to occur. When those same water levels exceed the elevation of the crest of the dune, that’s when sand starts getting pushed inland — that’s called “overwash.” That is what often deposits sand under homes or across the roads. That’s what a lot of local emergency personnel are interested in, because that’s when they need to prepare earth-moving equipment for after the event. The last type of coastal change is inundation. That’s when the mean water levels — forget waves; I mean just the tide and the surge — have inundated the sand dune. That’s the most extreme type of coastal change. And if you have a very low barrier island that’s very narrow, you have the potential for breaching. And that’s where you lose big chunks — like S-Turns or Kitty Hawk. Yup. How do people access this information? The Coastal Change Hazards Portal is a website we developed for onestop shopping on all the coastal change hazards work that the USGS is doing. Right now, the focus has been storms, shoreline change and sea level rise. That website will walk you through the assessments we have that will predict the likelihood of different types of coastal change for different types of weather conditions — tropical storms, nor’easters, extreme storms. If you pick “Category 3,” you can zoom in on the Outer Banks and see what’s expected to occur in your town based on an idealized Category 3 hurricane. So this is out there for long-term planning. When we have a storm that’s about to make landfall, we work with modeled storm surge and wave heights, combine it with our run-up equation and USGS beach morphology to provide updated forecasts of what might happen to the beach. You can zoom way down and see what’s going to happen by your home.

And anyone can access this? Yes. My aunt and uncle have a house near Frisco Pier, and I’ve sent them this. But the next version we’re releasing this fall will turn on all the time for all weather conditions. And what’s special about that is each beach is going to have different weather conditions that are problematic. Those nuisance flooding spots. Or, on the Outer Banks, those certain areas where a certain wind direction on a certain tide with a certain wave height — it’s going to put sand on the road. And that’s the type of event we want to help give local people advance notice for.

“if you have a low barrier island, you have the potential for breaching.” — Dr. Hilary Stockdon

Like Pea Island. Now we can go online and look and say, “This is going to be a bad day to drive south.” But how will we tell? It’s map-driven. You click on a spot on the coast and get a beach profile animation that shows the water levels going up and down.

And if that water level goes above the cartoon dune, you’re in trouble. Correct. And it will be a time series of the water levels for the three to five days, predicted every hour to three hours — depending on location. Right now we have five grids: one is on the Gulf Coast of Florida; one is Jupiter, Florida; one runs from the Morehead City area north to Duck; then one in New Jersey and one in Boston. And the goal is to have ten of these very large areas by next summer.

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So this fall, when we do our little hurricane dance and check the track every six hours to see where it’s going to land, we could also go online and see the probability of another breach in Rodanthe or Kitty Hawk — or right by our house. True. But there are uncertainty estimates associated with all of this. The National Hurricane Center has uncertainty estimates on the track of the storm. The storm surge modeling and the wave modeling have uncertainty estimates mixed into them. Our equation for runup does, too. That’s part of the reason we’re presenting a probability: it says there’s a 70 percent chance of overwash rather than a “yes” or “no.” Basically, it’s on a grade so you can choose your level of anxiety. That’s a perfect way of saying it. Because it is really up to each person and the role they have. Are they a homeowner? Are they a mayor? What level of risk are they comfortable with? Does 25 percent make me nervous — or 75 percent? And when am I going to initiate some action? So USGS is providing information to help them make some of these decisions. But it’s not just for hurricanes, right? It could be nor’easters — or something smaller. Or you can just look when it’s flat. Right. For example, after Sandy, some firefighters out by the Rockaways called me and said, “We see another little storm pushing through, and I see we no longer have sand dunes where we used to. How should we prepare for this next event?” That’s the type of information we want to be able to provide. And what we’re showing, a lot of locals know already. They know the spots that always go. But we’re providing additional info on timing of these events and magnitude to help them understand what’s coming for them in the next couple of days — or every day. The preceding interview was edited for space, flow and clarity. For the full conversation — including future applications and how Duck’s Field Research Facility plays a continued role — go to www.outerbanksmilepost.com. milepost 25

“If they win, I’m leaving!” You can hear the screams from all corners of the political echo chamber as America chooses between the two least-liked presidential candidates in history. With half the local population threatening to go expat, we decided to ask various Outer Bankers about their long-term experiences living abroad. We talked jobs, schools and immigration rules to reveal the pros, cons and complexities of relocating for life — assuming they’ll even let you in. Still ready to pull the ripcord? Better start Skypeing realtors and fake spouses now: January 20 is just around the corner.

EXIT STRATEGY Half of the Outer Banks is fixin’ to bail after the November elections. We did the legwork so you can jump ship immediately.



FRIEND WIT Everyone’s got the hots for Canada — but she’s not as easy as she looks.

Free health care. Cheap college. All the trees you can hug. No country screams “progressive agenda” like Canada. But for all you folks who are “feeling the Bern,” be prepared to feel the cold. (Or at least the colder.) “We don’t get as much snow as the rest of Canada,” says Nova Scotia native, Heather MacLean. “But winter temperatures can stay around zero degrees Celsius — that’s below freezing.” Still, converting degrees is the least of your worries if you want to go north of the wall. While Canada may be liberal with her affections, she’s quite conservative about who she lets in. Vibe: “I grew up where the tidal bore comes in — sort of like living on the sound. There’s a lot of boatbuilding and fishing. But if I moved home, I’d move to Halifax. It’s a cozy city built around an old fort called Citadel Hill, so the streets are all super steep — like San Francisco — with a large harbor and a nautical feel.” Jobs: “A lot of my friends are teachers, nurses or other professionals — like any city. Tourism’s big in summer — that’s when the cruise ships visit. On the south coast there are a lot of fishing communities, but it’s heavily regulated and highly competitive. Not easy to get a license. The main problem is you must prove you’re not taking a local job to get a work visa. It can be challenging finding an employer willing to navigate that process.”

Rock hard living in Nova Scotia. Peggy’s Cove. Photo: Dick Meseroll




Schools: “Canada has great schools. You’re still paying for university, but the fees aren’t as outrageous as in the U.S. And starting next year, Ontario’s covering four-year university for families making less than $50,000. So they’re trying to make secondary education affordable for everyone — which is awesome.” Health Care, Etc. “I would give my right arm to have my parents’ health care. There are no deductibles or co-pays. But they don’t let you walk into their health care system. You have to pay in for years. I couldn’t move home and get health care anymore. But a really big deal is paid maternity leave. Moms get 17 weeks off at which point they can split the next 37 weeks with their partner; and there’s a proposal to extend leave to 18 months.”

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Paperwork: “Getting citizenship is super hard; and super expensive. And, like here, just to get a green card, you have to prove your spouse can financially support you. So you can’t just rock up there and marry a Canadian. You have to marry a Canadian with a really, really good job.” Culture Shock: “People are more in your face with their politics in America. My husband jokes about how nice Canadians are. And I do think there’s more equality — especially for women — and not as much prejudice toward everyone over race, sexual identity or religion. Don’t get me wrong. It’s not ‘Care Bear Land’; I’m sure there’s prejudice. It’s just not as obvious.” Go? Or no? “Sometimes, it’s comforting to know I can move. [laughs] And I do miss Canada. I miss Canadians. But I don’t miss the climate. I’d rather be further south, but when you change countries, you have to adapt to their way of life. And the Outer Banks had everything we wanted.”

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milepost 27

HOME AWAY 3 times 3 times 3 times the Helpful!

Boom! Hear that? It’s the sound of a sleepy coastal village

Val, Manteo

gone bonkers. Its name? Pichilemu, Chile. Its purpose? To


serve visitors from Santiago and surrounding parts a cool, beachy time. Sound familiar? It should. Because, in the past 25 years, this sleepy escape’s blown up with homes, restaurants and all the amenities of a modern tourist town. “It’s a lot like living here,” says native Nags Header, Pat McManus, who spends up to three months in Chile with his wife, Karina, and their two kids. “You could drop someone in our house, change the language to English, and they’d be totally comfortable — almost.”

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Vibe: “Chile’s huge. Some coastal cities are just that — cities. But Pichilemu’s more like a traditional Spanish-style community. Except it’s a total tourist town. For six weeks in summer, it’s completely slammed. Come winter, there’s nobody but a core group of people. Kind of like Buxton — but everyone speaks Spanish. And unlike Costa Rica or Panama, there aren’t many Americans. Almost all the people we hang out with are Chileans.” Jobs: “In summer, it’s tourism. In winter, people work in the forestry industry. Or they go into the vineyards because we’re at the edge of the main wine valley. You could go down and be a contractor, but it doesn’t pay that well. A master carpenter there makes $50 to $60 a day; the guys under him make more like $30.”

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Schools: “Nobody’s handing out laptops, but the schools are pretty good. There’s one private school where everyone sends their kids if they have money. Even then, you’d still want to supplement at home to get to the level of a public school education here. But Chile as a whole puts an emphasis on education. In fact, they’re transitioning to a system where college is paid for 70 percent of the population.” Health Care, Etc. “The local hospital is like going to urgent care. No insurance, you just go in, you wait, they take care of you, and you pay. Karina got stitches once and it cost $70. If you had something serious, Santiago has nice hospitals. But it’s kind of two levels: there’s public-run insurance for Chileans; and then there’s a private level. So you can pay for that extra level of service.”

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Paper Work: “It takes six months to get a temporary residency. Then you just have to stay for two years to become permanent. So it’s not really hard; you just have to move there and stay put to make it happen.” Culture Shock: “Real estate is cheap. The average house is $20,000 — or you can build a really nice place on the ocean for $150,000. But everything else costs the same or sometimes more. The biggest difference is the bureaucracy. I’ve never stood in more lines or been to more notaries. And every trip to the bank takes an hour.” Go? Or No? “Chile would top the list if we did want to move. And I could teach and make about $20,000 a year. But you could never have the same standard of living. And you would never make enough to fly home and visit each year. So for us, it’s just a great vacation. And as much as we love it there, whenever we come home to the U.S., everything is just a little bit easier. Just a little more First World.”

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Granada’s colonial charm — and cheap living — makes it a Holy Grail for retiring ex-pats. Photo: Hector Montana INCLUDES: OIL AND FILTER* 23-POINT INSPECTION TIRE PRESSURE CHECK

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Oil change includes standard oil filter and up to 5 quarts of 5W30 conventional or synthetic-blend oil. Oil type is based on availability and may vary by location. Additional disposal and shop supply fees may apply. Special oils and filters are available at an additional cost. Coupon must be presented at time of estimate. Valid on most cars and light trucks at participating Meineke U.S. locations only. Not valid with any other offers, special order parts or warranty work. See center manager for complete details. No cash value. Void where prohibited. Limited time offer. OFFER ENDS DECEMBER 15, 2016.


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$25 off front and/or $25 off rear brake service. Valid only with purchase of brake pads or shoes when installed at Meineke. Service must include any parts or services required to restore the system to proper operating conditions. Coupon must be presented at time of estimate. Valid on most cars and light trucks at participating Meineke U.S. locations only. Offer can be combined with Meineke Credit Card rebates. Not valid with any other discounts, special order parts or warranty work. See center manager for complete details. No cash value. Void where prohibited. Limited time offer. OFFER ENDS DECEMBER 15, 2016.


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Nicaragua’s wild, wooly and willfully independent.


Don’t let the labels fool you. Sure, Sandinistas still rule the country. But for all its reputation as a socialist sweet spot, Nicaragua behaves more like a brave libertarian than a bleeding heart liberal — at least when it comes to doing business with expats. Regulations are loose. Taxes are light. And behind every rebel lurks the heart of a ReMax agent. “Real estate and construction are booming,” says Craig Watson, who met and married a Nicaraguan while spending six years in the Popoyo region. “But you have to be careful who you do work with. In many ways it’s still the wild, wild west.” Vibe: “Nicaragua’s a beautiful country with a mix of everything. Granada is a cool colonial town. San Juan Del Sur is the long-time coastal vacation spot. Mukul is a five-star resort with three golf courses — they fly in movie stars on helicopters. Popoyo is a tight community of ex-pats who run surf hostels with help from local villagers. They get more wary of newcomers each year, but like anyplace, you show respect, you get respect.”

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Jobs: “The surf tourism market is totally saturated. But if you have a specific skill, you can work it. One buddy is a physical trainer who caters to vacationers. Another’s ding repair shop does pretty damn well. You could probably set up a restaurant and sell pizzas and beer. Maybe drive people to the airport on the side. People have to hustle, then cobble it all together — just like here. Nobody’s making a killing, but they’re happy.” Schools: “Schools in Popoyo are hideous. There’s a lot of homeschooling. This gated community, Rancho Santana, started a school for ex-pats that’s supposed to be good. Or you could send your kids to a private school in Managua like the rich Nicaraguans do.” Health Care, etc. “Health care isn’t free, but it’s as cheap as it gets. For $300 you can go to Rivas and have your appendix removed. For something serious, I’d go to Vivian Pella in Managua. It’s as good as any hospital in the U.S., and you can get a major operation for less than we pay for insurance each year.” Paperwork: “Getting residency is a nightmare. Your criminal record and health report all has to go through the Nicaraguan embassy in Miami before you apply. I tried twice, and both times they took too long. But if you want to retire — and you can prove you have enough income — the government gives you a one-time opportunity to bring down $75,000 in merchandise without paying import taxes. But all this stuff needs to be done perfectly legally, or you end up getting screwed. And there’s plenty of lawyers — the hard part’s finding one you can trust.” Culture Shock: “Speaking Spanish is essential. And even though Nicaragua is probably the friendliest country in Central America with the least crime, stuff happens. And there’s no 911. Most gringos have guns for protection, but it’s illegal, so if you get caught you’re gonna pay thousands in fines — or sit in jail for two years.” Go? Or No? “I could always sell my place here, finish my house there, buy a truck and a boat, and do fishing charters. But if the world starts falling apart, how long is Nicaragua going to be any better off? Not long. And when shit hits the fan, I’d rather be here.”

Check out our booth at the WRV OBX Pro August 31 - September 4, 2016 Jennette’s Pier, Nags Head


milepost 31

Free, all-you-can-eat lobster is a speargun away. Photo: DJ Struntz





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Trump fans, we’ve found your paradise. Not only are the Bahamas a top choice for Fortune 500 corporations and offshore bank accounts, the quickest path to permanent residency is to drop $250,000 on real estate. But you don’t have to rub shoulders with Mariah Carey to bronze your buns on a Caribbean beach. For ten winters, Jamie and Andrew McCall have enjoyed their beach cottage on Eleuthera, living a much humbler, yet equally rewarding, existence. “It can be crazy expensive,” says Andrew, who’s a chef at Owens’. “But we still live well. My sons and I catch a ton of fresh seafood right from the shoreline — and then I do all the cooking.” Vibe: “Eleuthera feels like the edge of the Earth. Very rocky. Desolate, with small villages. It kind of feels like this place 50 years ago, with a mix of Americans and Europeans. And the coast is much more dynamic. Especially winter. Here it’s brown and gray — there it’s blue and green.”

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Jobs: “Like most countries, you need a skill level the Bahamians do not have. So, I couldn’t get hired as a contractor — but I could go work as a gourmet chef. Either way, my boss would have to pay an employment tax between $6000 and $10,000. But that’s chump change for a high-end resort. Educators are in high demand, too, so Jamie could get a job as a teacher.”


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Schools: “The schools are actually pretty good. One of our boys went to Montessori school for awhile. And the Island School is renowned for its science studies. But private schools are expensive. And even locals need high scores to get in.” Health Care, Etc. “If you get hurt, you go to the clinic and they sew you up for a few bucks. But if you’re bad off, you’re getting flown out to Nassau. Or if it’s real bad, they send you back to the States. And that’s anything but free.” Papers: “Right now, we can get a 90-day visa, and then apply for something longer if we want. But it’s almost impossible to get citizenship. And even if you retire there, it takes ten years to get permanent residency. I have a friend who married a Bahamian and still had to jump through hoops to stay year-round. He has five kids and owns a beach shop, and the whole business is still under his wife’s name.” Culture Shock: “It’s a real island. If there’s a hurricane, you’re not evacuating. There’s no emergency services. And the whole island gets soaked in salt. Any screws that aren’t high-grade stainless rust in a year. Electronics last maybe two. I built a wooden box to hold my TV and I’ve still gone through three DVD players. And everything you import gets taxed. It cost us $1,100 to ship a $2,500 truck. That’s just what you sign up for.” Go? Or No? “I don’t know. I’ve seen people, who seem to have it dialed, bug out after a while because it is so remote. But if something catastrophic happened here, I could definitely survive on Eleuthera — if I could get there. I could fish. I could garden. I’d just need to hide long enough that the man wouldn’t find me.” [laughs]

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LUNCH & DINNER MONDAY - SATURDAY 201 Sir Walter Street • Historic Manteo Waterfront 252-473-5911 • ortegaz.com milepost 33


Australia has great jobs, schools, and safety n Few places occupy such prime real estate in our collective imaginations as “Oz.” A world where the outback hops with crazy critters. Grills teem with tasty grub. And party people pound pints and speak crazy slang. What you don’t realize? The schools are “ace.” The social bennies are “beauty.” And a job banging nails can make you “heaps” of money. “The wealthiest friends I have from school are carpenters and concrete workers,” says Perth native, Joe Sherlock, a former contractor turned part owner at Farmdog Surf School. “They’re all millionaires from working with tools.”

Vibe: “Even though it’s a totally different country with some big cities — Perth has close to two million people — 80 percent of Australians live on the coast. So we basically have the same principles and passions. We all want to go to the beach everyday, swim in the beautiful ocean with our families, go home and grill out and drink a beer. Then we want to get up and do it all over again.” [laughs] Jobs: “The real high earning trades in Western Oz, where I’m from, are the mining industry — there’s gold, copper, iron, natural gas, oil. I’ve made up to $80 an hour as a carpenter. But then the minimum wage is around $22. That’s just your eight hours, Monday to Friday. Saturday is time-and-a-half. On a public holiday you can be making $50 an hour pouring coffee.” milepost


Western Oz rocks. Photo: Jimmy Wilson


nets — if you’re willing to get your hands dirty.

Schools: “The schools are excellent. College isn’t free, but you don’t come out owing $100,000 with no way to pay it. Most of my friends went to trade schools. You do a three-year apprenticeship, get paid while you learn and don’t have any debt when you finish.” Health care, etc. “Australians are pretty well looked after. Health care is basically free. And if you’re an employee, you get what’s called “superannuation.” The government collects 10 percent of your net earnings. You can’t touch it ’til you turn 60, but most people retire with $500,000 on top of whatever else they saved.” Paperwork: “Unless you’re young and highly skilled, becoming a resident is close to impossible. But our population is only 30 million people. When the economy’s booming, we literally can’t fill all the jobs. So if you have the right trade, you can find a way. Or you can always marry an Australian. My wife, Lisa, flew in on a tourist visa. We contacted the government and that was it.” Culture shock: “Of course everything costs more, too. We paid $360,000 for a tiny home nowhere near the beach. The oceanfront homes here that sell for $2 or $3 million are in the tens of millions in Australia. Gas is probably $7 a gallon. A six pack of Victoria Bitter costs $20. And if you like sports, get used to watching cricket and rugby and Australian Rules Football, which is like a super-fast, high impact mix of soccer and rugby.” Go? Or no? “We moved here so the kids could be closer to Lisa’s parents. And at some point, I’ll go for my U.S. citizenship. But we’ll move back, eventually. And I’m certain I’ll spend the rest of my life in Australia. I guess everyone believes their country is the best place on Earth.”

Your health, your way. Here at home. Life on the Outer Banks is pretty special. So special, in fact, that most of us don’t want to leave. And, why should we? With The Outer Banks Hospital, we have access to excellent specialty services — orthopedic surgery, cancer treatment, women’s care and more. Backed by the combined strength of Vidant Health and Chesapeake Regional Healthcare the right care is right here.

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Mile Post 14 | Nags Head | 252-449-4500 | TheOBH.com

milepost 35










This land is your land... This land is my land... And now, this land is Budweiser’s land. And Subaru’s. And, coming soon, any number of big corporations thanks to a recent decision by the National Park Service to help plug-up an $18 billion budget gap by plugging certain brands. (Or as they put it: “to guide NPS engagement in public-private partnerships and provide guidance on the acceptance of private sector support.”) Don’t worry: they’ve limited the sellable real estate to signs, benches and cars, at least for now. And supervisors and managers are only supposed to broker deals with products and services that fit a specific park or visitor opportunity. But with the NPS already forgoing its no-alcohol policy to make room for Anheuser Busch in its “Find Your Park” centennial celebrations — a campaign it simultaneously shares with a Japanese auto maker — one wonders just how long it’ll take before every partner works, every sticker “fits”, and every square inch of public property looks like a drunken ad exec crashed the party.

milepost 37


Sometimes the most inanimate objects are the most alive.



TILL. FE. Our world is full of dead things.

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Pieces of paper. Hunks of wood. Objects so common — so utterly ordinary — they barely register most days. But in the right hands these same mundane items become something more. A pulpy flower blooms not once, but twice: first for its creator who folds it, then the young child who holds it. A carved root helps a hunter eat — then tells family history. A broken bottle fuels a woman’s beachcombing passion — that becomes a couple’s personal mission. With each person they touch, these inanimate objects become works of art. And breathe

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new life into the world around them. milepost 39


d Cottrell sits at his dining room table surrounded by paper products.

There are white sheets of standard looseleaf. Flat half-inch strips of canary yellow. Cardboard backdrops spray-painted powder blue. Scattered among the creative chaos of his makeshift studio are X-acto blades, glue guns and other tools, but his hands are what do the real work. Folding and cutting, he transforms rectangles and squares into delicate sculptures. A simple flower. A tiny angel. A full-sized parrot. “I first learned origami as a child from my mom,” says the 49-year-old Dare County Sheriff and school resource officer at First Flight Middle School. “She showed me how to make cranes and paper airplanes.” But now, his art is about much more than what he creates. He loves the process, not to mention what he does with most of his pieces after they’re finished. “I enjoy learning new things and figuring out how they are done. And then I get to teach someone else.” The ancient art of origami started in Japan around the 6th century, but it was first introduced to Ed when he was seven or eight. Born in Yokosuka, Japan to a Japanese mom and Navy dad, Cottrell immediately fell in love with the process. More than four decades later, he carries on the cultural tradition while making increasingly complex creations. He fills jars with floating butterflies. Makes shadow boxes of forest scenes. Builds whole bouquets of pink roses. Creations can include hours of labor and untold patience. One small daisy requires 600 cuts with a pair of tiny scissors. “3D Origami,” like the parrot? That takes 500 pieces of paper and four whole days of work. Despite the long hours and commitment, few final pieces stick around for more than a day or two. “I give a lot away as soon as I make them,” says Cottrell. “Sometimes I find that as I am making something, I run into the person that it’s for.” So where does it go? Depends on the piece — and the timing. One Christmas, he made a snow globe for his colleagues at the Nags

techniques with the students. He regularly shares his knowledge with the Exceptional Children classes. Just this summer, he ordered 20 origami quillers — a special tool to help twirl paper — so he could help inspire even more kids. “At one point, my son Andy asked why I wasn’t an art teacher,” Cottrell laughs. “But I told him, ‘I am an art teacher. I am your art teacher.’” If there’s one focus for his passion, it’s his sons, Tony and Andy. Instead of just watching cartoons, Cottrell and his boys will spend an hour or two cutting, folding and punching between laughs. Each hour they spend following the process, his sons pick up something new — and become the next generation of origami enthusiasts. Which is exactly how Cottrell learned from his own parents. “My dad could do anything — paint, draw, carve,” he recalls. “But he didn’t teach us anything. We just watched what he did.” “ Fast forward a few decades, add some modern technology, and Ed continues to learn by example. Only instead of his father, he’s watching YouTube and Pinterest to seek out ideas for new types of art — or figure out the proper fold. And he’s just as keen to keep his knowledge flowing in the exact same way. Ask how to make a daisy, he’ll snip away at a yellow strip and show you firsthand. Express interest in the parrot, he’ll pop up the video clip. More than likely, he’ll whip out his phone and start flipping through photos, revealing hundreds of snapshots of little masterpieces. There are profiles of John Wayne and Elvis made purely from slicing one sheet of paper. Papier-mâché jack-o-lanterns that scream with delight. Recently, he’s been making miniature log cabins out of wood, clay — then shingling the roof with pinecone scales. “I bounce around a lot between different things,” Cottrell laughs. “When something catches my eye, I move on to that. But it also depends somewhat on my wife’s tolerance for me messing up the table.” And look out, because fall’s when the dining room gets extra messy. Cottrell goes big for Halloween. Every year he builds his sons’ mind-blowing costumes, from KISS’ Gene Simmons — who held a guitar that really played “God of Thunder” — to Buzz Lightyear, who came complete with an operational headpiece

“Sharing art for me is as important as making it.” Head Police Department. Another, he cranked out dozens of angels and delivered them to people he knew had a difficult year. He’s donated pumpkins for bake sales to raise funds, and made custom bouquets for friends and neighbors as personal gifts. (Recently, he gave his mom a three-dimensional version of her favorite painting, Van Gogh’s “Sunflowers.”) He even uses the gift in his job at the middle school.

and talking parts. Between researching materials and retrofitting helmets, it took a full year to make his son Andy look like Halo’s Master Chief. At the same time, he built a Batmobile for Tony (aka Batman) out of an old lawnmower, adding red lights and flares.

“I make pencil toppers and put them on my desk at school to encourage students to come into my office,” Cottrell says, adding that they are great conversation starters.

Those are the pieces he’ll keep for future grandkids — or maybe just a cool statue to stand in his office. And there are others — like the parrot — that turn out so special, they make the cut for a prize perch someplace in the house. But most of the artwork disappears forever. Except for the impression it leaves on his heart and the smile it puts on people’s faces.

And he’s just as willing to take the craft to the kids. Teachers invite Cottrell to show his craft and go through some “how-to”

“Sharing art for me is as important as making it,” he says. “So once I get it finished, it’s gone.” — Michelle Wagner





How does Ed Cottre



ell keep origami exciting? By giving it away.

Photo: Chris Bickford

Starting September 30th Fall Friday Night Prime Rib Special ($15.99) Music upstairs in the Oceanview Lounge

Customer appreciation party and closing for the season Sunday, November 27th

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cruise madma with us diary of a For 15 years, Brett Owens documented every day of his surfing existence — and its downfall.

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ll books are powerful.

Mighty tomes build and guide religions. (The Bible; The Quran.) Skinny pamphlets spark revolutions. (The Communist Manifesto, Common Sense.) The very same textbooks that kill one college student with boredom can literally save another kid’s life. (In 2014, Jason Derfuss’ copy of Great Medieval Thinkers stopped a gunman’s bullet at FSU.) But words don’t need millions of readers to have a major impact. Sometimes just the humblest private diary will do the trick. What begins as a spiralbound bundle of empty pages and unfinished thoughts ends as a cautionary tale, depicting the Jekyll-and-Hyde transformation of a man coming unhinged. “This thing was pure evil,” sighs 50-year-old local chef and fitness trainer, Brett Owens, tapping a worn weather journal from 20 years ago. “I did this to prove all the days I surfed. But I ended up seeing all the days I missed.” He didn’t miss many. In 1990, the fresh college grad moved up to the Outer Banks from Wilmington to chase waves. He scored the best days. Groveled the worst. Before long, Brett’s black Dodge Raider was synonymous with wherever was breaking on either side of the bridge. So when a burgeoning surf report company called Surfline needed someone to call in daily conditions, he readily agreed. “I was already checking every morning at dawn,” he recalls. “I just needed to write stuff down.”

pick up in summer. And there was always some surprise solo session down south. I started chasing it all. It all fed into the obsession.” Before long, instead of Brett controlling his surfing existence, his surfing existence controlled him. Flip to the back flap, you’ll find nine years of annual stats. Between ’95 and 2003, there were 1606 surfable days — Brett paddled out on all but 69 of them. Toward the end, his average score rate was 98 percent. And yet, even as his wave count gets sweeter, the entries grow more sour. Days that should shine out still sound lackluster. (“Overhead, glassy, very thick and hollow. Good. When you got one.”) The flat spells grow downright despondent. (“Worst May ever. No waves! No hope!”) Instead of reading like a man who’s getting his fill; it reads like a man who can’t get enough. “I’ve never had a drug habit,” he says, “but I imagine it’s very much like that. You keep looking for that high and you rarely get it. So you have severe lows. My first marriage ended. I had meltdowns at work. I had to step away. So I quit surfing for two months — that’s when I started running.” And raced headlong into a whole new addiction: triathlons. A former competitive swimmer and committed cyclist, he started with a sprint distance event up in VB in 2006. The past several years, he’s routinely topped his age group in the Outer Banks Triathlon and made strong enough finishes at the North Carolina Ironman race to qualify for the nationals. His next goal? Making the World Ironman in Kona by heading back down to Wilmington this October — smack in the middle of our best surfing season.

“Worst May ever. No waves! No hope!” Today, cracking Brett’s dog-eared copy of The Weather Wizard’s 5-Year Weather Diary is like opening a treasure chest for any diehard surfer. The margins brim with coordinates of legendary mid-90s hurricanes like Bonnie, Daniel and Lili — and countless epic sessions from nameless wavemakers. Entries run from Kitty Hawk Pier to the Hatteras ferry — sometimes in a single day.

Photo: Chris Bickford

When it’s flat, a single dash marks the lifeless ocean. When there’s surf, a sketchy wave barrels in the corner. And when it’s firing, there’s a star — maybe two — marking days any expert would kill to experience. (Oct. 21, 1996: “W-SW winds, 10-15. Hurricane Lili. Surfed S-Turns as good as it gets. Head to four-feet overhead. Glassy, very hollow, mostly lefts. Looked like Puerto. Surfed from 7am-5:30pm. Very good.”) When it’s not? You feel frustrations even the basest novice can relate to: “Been FLAT for weeks now, beginning to go nuts!!!” Part epistolary, part time portal, it reads like a magical past when dudes surfed “Laundromats” instead of Lillian — “Blacktops” instead of Sea Haven — and sandbars spiked Pea Island from the old Ferry Signs to S-Turns proper, reflecting a more cryptic time when Outer Banks waves were a little more secret. (Maybe even a tad better.) But for Brett, all this historical data became a way to see the future. Long before online forecasts were dishing out five-day reports, Brett began predicting waves using a weather radio, his eyes, and this book. He’d scour through pages of old sessions to point to his next epic day. “I started seeing patterns pretty quick,” says Owens, who graduated from UNCW with an environmental science degree. “I knew that First Street would start showing toward mid-September, or Rodanthe would

“Oh, I’ve missed some waves,” he admits. “All my races are inbetween September and Thanksgiving. I just don’t care like I used to. That’s a huge change.” Don’t worry: he still surfs — plenty. Indeed, he credits paddling with keeping him super-fit for swimming distances. But instead of chasing his tail from Kitty Hawk to Frisco, he chooses to cruise out across the street — preferably with his three kids. (That’s when he’s not running the Bonzer Shack kitchen or teaching spin classes at MmaxOut — the gym he owns with his wife, Amber.) And when it’s flat, he’s just as happy running down Bay Drive. Like any reformed addict, he takes it all one day at a time. With only one relapse. “When I first started training, I journaled again,” he admits. “And, again, it ruined me. [laughs] Now I don’t even wear a watch when I race. I do it all based on how I feel.” So which feels better? “I like being outdoors and getting lost in my thoughts,” he admits. “And I do get runner’s high. But that whole excitement of surfing — of going over the ledge and getting barreled? Nothing compares to that.” Almost nothing. In five years of entries, among all the epic scores and angry rants, November 30, 1998 stands out as a moment of clarity. The waves sound horrible. (“Flat. The wind’s straight south.”) But the tone is happy. And not crazy-happy either. But peacefully content. A glimpse of a brighter future where nothing would ever be the same: “Dylan was born. 6:08 pm. Best day ever — and I never touched the water.” — Matt Walker milepost 43


y any measure, it’s an astounding collection of booty.

Shelves bulge with jars of beach glass in colors that no longer exist. Chunks of fulgurite, molded by lightning flashes atop Jockey’s Ridge, serve as souvenirs of long-forgotten storms. Artifacts from World War II stand at attention beside plastic toys and sets of false teeth, ancient bottles, rare shells — even a piece of a 16th century German stoneware jug. Not to mention photographs, store ledgers, newspaper clippings and magazines, all from the bygone era before tourism irrevocably changed our barrier island. And it all still sits inside the Mattie Midgette Store, the same Nags Head building where Nellie Myrtle Pridgen lived much of her 74 years, collecting every type of beach detritus while serving the Outer Banks’ earliest visitors. “Let’s put it this way, I would say next to Jockey’s Ridge and the Wright Brothers Memorial, it is the most historically significant place on the northern Outer Banks,” late author and esteemed Outer Banks historian David Stick said in a 2004 article for The Virginian-Pilot. But you can’t see any of it this year. The proprietors of the Outer Banks Beachcombers Museum in Nags Head — Chaz Winkler and Dorothy Hope [pictured right] — closed their doors this summer to pursue resources to open year-round. After a decade of being open infrequently, the couple is focusing on long-term preservation of this historic jewel.

Pridgen’s parents, Mattie and Jethro Midgette — sometimes spelled “Midgett” — were married in 1914 and soon built their general store on what is now Soundside Road. At that time, boats carrying summer visitors looking for fresh sea air would dock there. After a big storm in 1933, the store was moved to the present location on the west side of the Beach Road, joining a small oceanfront community in what is now known as the Nags Head Beach Cottage Row Historic District. Nellie Myrtle worked in the store when she was young. During the war, she worked in Norfolk, coming home on weekends. She married twice and had two children, Carmen and a son, Elwood. Eventually, she came back home, living in the family house. In her later years, she moved to the apartment above the store. Throughout, she walked the beach twice a day, stockpiling items. Her children also contributed to her stash. Elwood “Woody” Pridgen, 80, says that he had retrieved most of the bottles in the collection from an old dump on the north end of the Three Sisters dunes near the sound. “The wind had uncovered all this trash,” he recalls. Pridgen recently visited Nags Head for the first time after leaving as a young man for Saudi Arabia, where he worked for TWA as a DC3 mechanic. He ended up staying until 1995, when he retired with his wife in the Florida Keys. “I was just stunned when I went back,” he says. “Jockey’s Ridge is not

“It’s a legacy that we can leave to future generations.” “I just think it’s a perfect time to have a for-profit private enterprise,” Winkler says, chatting from the museum, which the couple lives above. “It seems to me this area is crying out for something like that. It’s a legacy that we can leave to future generations.” At dusk and dawn, Pridgen strolled the sands between Jockey’s Ridge and the store for much of her life, obsessively gathering every interesting bit of flotsam and jetsam she saw. When she died in July 1992, it was all still there, much of it catalogued, labeled, dated, and sorted by color, some of it just piled up. It was up to others to cull out the treasures. It took almost 10 years to fulfill the task. And now the same people are working hard to make sure it remains available to the public for future years. “Our goal is to preserve this,” says Button Daniels, a Wanchese native and close friend of Nellie’s daughter, Carmen Gray, who died in 2007. “We want to open it back up, for all those people who haven’t been able to come this summer. I just love it when people come in and say, ‘I remember that!” Hope and Gray became close three decades ago when they co-authored “Love that Tuna and other gamefish: a complete Outer Banks cookbook.” Later, they shared a business selling Outer Banks Cobbler Mix. When Gray died, the property was given to Hope. It wasn’t until 2002 that Gray, with much help from Winkler, Hope and Daniels, first opened the store and Nellie Myrtle’s newly organized collection to the public as part of Preservation North Carolina’s tour of old Nags Head beach cottages. In 2004, the store and the family house behind it were listed on the National Register of Historic Places. People were enthralled by the quirky personality that came through in Pridgen’s collection. But the power of her beach bounty was woven tightly with the story of old Nags Head and the evolution of tourism. milepost


Jockey’s Ridge anymore. It was such a sharp ridge, you could hardly walk on it.” There was a special spot on the north end of the ridge where lightning liked to strike when it was wet. That’s where he found the fulgurite that’s now in the museum. “Most of that came out of my room,” he says, sounding delighted that it’s part of his mother’s collection. A tall, lithe woman known for cursing as profanely as her father Jethro, Nellie Myrtle loved to read and was very well informed and selfeducated, Pridgen says. He remembers that she had a temper and she sometimes fought violently with her dad. “She was a mean sonovabitch,” he says, matter-of-factly. In her later years, Nellie Myrtle channeled her hot temper into protecting the beach she loved, becoming infamous for confrontations with anyone she viewed as a threat to the environment or the beach cottages. She’d be happy to know that Hope and Winkler are honoring her collection with their efforts to preserve old Nags Head. Currently, they’re planning a crowdfund campaign to protect the treasures, store and family house. Despite past disagreements over parking and zoning at the museum, deputy town manager Andy Garman says that Nags Head is looking into permitting the museum as it would an owner-occupied gallery, which requires minimum parking. “We’re trying to figure out a way to accommodate this,” he says. If all goes as hoped, the museum will reopen in time to celebrate Nellie Myrtle’s 100th birthday on May 17, 2018. “I will fight tooth and nail to see that this becomes a reality,” Daniels says. “I see this as Dare County’s and Nags Head’s last chance to salvage something.” — Catherine Kozak


Can Nellie Myrtle save what’s left of

Photo: Chris Bickford

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e Pridgen’s massive beachcombing collection our idyllic past?

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Joe ’til




e Mapp used to be a real player — he found his six-string soulmate.


obody’s ever said she looked perfect.

Her face is pocked from constant picking. Body’s scarred and worn from decades of hard living. What little silver she wears left the last of its luster in some dingy dive. But her heart is true. Her voice is warm. Her touch? Highly sensitive. And as any guitar player will tell you, when it comes to choosing a partner, that’s what really counts: what’s on the inside. “I went through a lot of guitars when I was young,” says 59-year-old axeman Joe Mapp. “I’d sell or trade constantly just to have something different. But all that changed when I got this Telecaster. Even though I was more of a jazz guy, something about it just appealed to me.” So what exactly is a Telecaster? Nothing less than the first, commercially successful, mass-produced, solidbody electric guitar. When Leo Fender first popped ’em

Mapp enrolled in Berklee College of Music, in Boston, where he learned all the complex theory that turns a natural talent into a craftsman. Then he headed to New York to ply his trade. That’s where he met his true mentor, Mike Stern. A bona fide jazz legend who backed up Miles Davis, Stern would go on to be Guitar Magazine’s “1993 Jazz Guitar Player of the Year.” And though the two never shared a stage, they shared many hours. “Mike kind of took me under his wing,” Mapp recalls. “I’d bring my guitar over and he’d show me a lot of cool tricks. I never tried to copy him consciously, but he had a Tele that was almost exactly like this.” That’s the thing: no guitars are ever exactly alike. Even Teles. Some are ash — some alder. Some have two pick-ups — others three. Take two exact models, from the exact same year, made the very same day, you’ll find differences in tone and feel. That’s if they’re brand new. And Joe’s is anything but mint.

“Why have a guitar and hang it on the wall?” out in 1952, they were designed to be a more durable alternative to the hollow designs. Easy to pick — and hard to damage — they became the go-to choice for honkytonk heroes who loved the bright, chimy chords and twangy solos. In rock circles, they found favor among rhythm players and working class outlaws like Keith Richards, Bruce Springsteen and the Clash’s Joe Strummer. Jazz guys? They stuck to their Big Band roots by playing bustier models with fatter tones and plenty of polish. Nobody played jazz on a Tele. Well, almost nobody. “A Canadian guy named Ed Bickert — who’s one of my favorites — always played one,” says Mapp. “Roy Buchanan was another monster. And Danny Gatton was probably the premier Tele player in the world — they all had a real effect on me.” Especially the latter two. In the ’70s, Gatton and Buchanan brought jazz’s complexities to blues, rock and country, pioneering what’s now called “the Telecaster sound.” And both lived and played in D.C. right about the time Joe was finding his own voice. A child prodigy at seven, Mapp was picking out Grand Funk Railroad solos before he could drive. But by high school, pop hooks and four-bar blues were becoming boring. He needed a challenge. Something that tapped a six-string’s true potential, and took it from a wallflower instrument that only shined in 20-second solos to one that carried each song from beginning to end. “When I was 15, I bought an album by Wes Montgomery,” says Mapp. “That was a game changer. Because I always felt the music was important enough you don’t need words. That steered me toward jazz.”

The body’s a ’69 — but the neck’s a ’71. (He thinks.) One former owner refinished the body; another put on fat, Gibson frets. And Joe himself swaps out the sweat-soaked electronics every few years. But, while she may not be fully original, she’s still one-of-a-kind. And the second he played her, it was love at first sight — or sound. “On the front pickup it sounded more like a hollow body jazz guitar,” says Mapp, who spent weeks driving to Richmond to test different Teles. “And the thing about jazz is its mostly flat keys. Not all guitars are good in those keys, but I remember, I hit this B-flat and it lasted forever.” Sort of like their relationship. Nineteen years later, that beat-up Tele’s still his main squeeze. Step into Art’s Place on any Monday night, they’re a match made in heaven. Fingers flutter across the fretboard, finding notes that light up like fireflies. When he touches this spot — she screams. That one, she purrs. She may not be in perfect shape for some collector, but she’s perfect for him. And he wouldn’t trade or sell her for all the guitars he’s ever owned. “I’ve probably had 20 Telecasters over the years,” Mapp grins, like a former playboy reliving his past. “One George Harrison signature model I bought for $400 — that would be worth $20,000 today. If it was mint. But why have a guitar and hang it on the wall? Especially a Tele. It’s designed to be flogged.” — Matt Walker milepost 47




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This antique duck decoy is a shotgun blast from the past.

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ative North American cultures are known for their hunting tools.

From bows and arrows, to tomahawks, spears and clubs. Over the centuries, most of these weapons fell by the wayside in favor of newer technologies. But one ingenious invention stands immortal: the duck decoy. Adopted by European colonists by at least the 18th century, a flock of floating booby traps remains essential for trophy hunting and feeding families. Today, they are a defining symbol of North Carolina coastal living. For Hiram Mayo Jr., that makes his one battered chunk of wood both a prized piece of family history — and a bridge to our collective past. “It looks very primitive,” Hiram says about his rare root head decoy, eyes gleaming. “Back then you needed to work with what you had on hand.”


Photo: brooke mayo


How far “back then”? Way before power tools. In the early 1880s Hiram’s great-grandfather, John Beasley Mayo, lived in the small Mesic community of Pamlico County. This was pure country, rural and isolated. Farming and fishing were the main industries, and the primary means of feeding your family. Hunters saved their brass shotgun shells to reload them in-between hunts. Getting to the closest town for other supplies meant traveling 30 miles by mule to New Bern. In addition to farming, fishing and cultivating oysters, John Mayo had to duck hunt to feed his family of nine. And unlike today, when acquiring a 12-piece set of decoys is as easy as clicking “Add to Cart” on Dick’s Sporting Goods’ website, that meant putting some sweat into it.

Along with so much else, that attitude changed over the past few decades. For an increasingly large number of enthusiasts, these types of decoys represent a unique slice of Americana worth celebrating and collecting. Older and particularly wellcrafted examples can run anywhere from a few hundred to several thousand dollars apiece. And by all reports, that market keeps growing. A preening pintail drake decoy carved in the early 20th century by renowned craftsman, Elmer Crowell, broke records — and attracted widespread media attention —when it sold for $319,000 at an auction in 1986. Seventeen years later, in 2003, that same decoy sold at Christie’s for $801,000, only to enter the scene once more as part of a larger private sale in 2007. The record-shattering price tag the third time around was $1.13 million. Of course, that’s a highly ornate specimen. It’s doubtful Hiram’s humble stump would fetch such a price. But even if it would, he’s not sure he could part with it. “I guess it might be tempting if someone offered me $500,000 — and I can withstand anything but temptation,” Hiram jokes. “But my daddy had a bunch of decoys, and he sold some of them to help put my older daughter through college. I remember when he was going through his collection, he put this one aside and told me, ‘Son, you can’t ever sell this.’” But he’s more than happy to show it off. Take the Core Sound Decoy Festival for example. Held on Harkers Island every December since 1988, this weekend-long event attracts crowds from all over for demonstrations and various competitions that pay tribute to the history, function and art of decoys. Last year, Mayo’s

“It was like a pretty woman won a beauty contest without entering.” You can almost imagine John hacking the body of his decoy from a local sweet gum tree before he set out again to scour the shore of Chadwick Creek in search of that elusive, perfect shape, which he finally found in the root of a nearby wax myrtle bush. The gnarled stump looks nothing like a model you might see in the home décor section of Southern Living. But decoys didn’t need to be works of art. They just needed to lure in ducks — and last a long time.

prize was on display. But his fake duck ruffled a few real feathers when it took a blue ribbon for the People’s Choice Award — without officially being part of the competition.

“Root heads were considered less fragile than hand-carved ones,” Hiram explains. “Though it was sometimes tricky to find a natural root that fit your desired shape.”

Not that there weren’t some grumblings over the win. One writer penned an editorial in Decoy Magazine to complain that the Core Sound People’s Choice Award should only be selected from first place winners of established divisions — a sentiment that Hiram shrugs off in his good-natured way.

Once he had the two most important parts of his decoy, he likely formed the body with a set of whittling knives, cleaned up the root and drilled a hole in the body to attach the two pieces by force. Paint was necessary, but not necessarily perfect. Scant traces of the decoy’s original black and white coat remain (which once resembled the markings of a bluebill), and it’s scarred with scrapes and indentations from years of use. Three precious, antique brass shots are still lodged firmly inside its body. According to Hiram, the decoy was once part of a larger set that his great-grandfather made. Though the whole set was passed down through several generations in the Mayo family, only this one decoy still remains. “It was just a way of life then, so people didn’t really think they had much value,” Hiram says. “Over the years most of them were probably thrown away or eaten by rats.”

“It didn’t quite fit in any of the categories,” Hiram laughs, “but people loved it anyway. It was like a pretty woman who walked into a beauty contest and won without entering.”

“The judges felt differently,” he says. “It made people stop and look because it wasn’t like anything they’d seen before. And I believe that if you have something one-of-a-kind then it’s valuable.” It’s certainly valuable to the Mayo clan. In the long term, Hiram expects to leave the decoy to his three grandchildren, but he has a short-term plan, too. His dad, Hiram Mayo, Sr., will turn 92 this year, and Hiram Jr. is organizing a close gathering to celebrate his father’s life. The root head will be the dining room table centerpiece for this event, where it will stand as a tangible piece of family history — and something even more. “It’s important to put family first and respect where you came from,” Hiram reflects. “Looking at this decoy takes me back to another time when things were simpler. To me it’s a national treasure.” — Amelia Boldaji milepost 49

gopirate “Ye want some of this?” Queen Anne’s Revenge prepares to engage. Photo: Natasha Jackson

three-day event with a focus on preserving Ocracoke’s pirate legacy.

Streets are jam-packed with corsets, widebrimmed hats, boots and libations.

“Ocracoke was a big part of Blackbeard’s life, so we want an event to commemorate that time in history,” says Back Porch’s owner and committee chair, Daphne Bennink. “Since the first year, our motivator has been to create a foundation so that when the 300th Anniversary of Blackbeard’s last battle comes around in 2018, we are established.”

So far so good. Already, droves of visitors and locals gather the last weekend of October, fired up to spend three days commemorating Blackbeard’s final, bloody battle — a battle which lasted all of six minutes. Exiting the ferry from Hatteras feels like a sea captain’s answer to a Star Trek convention: streets are jam-packed with corsets, wide-brimmed hats, boots, and enough libations to satiate the thirstiest of souls. Meanwhile, kids of every age vie for a chance to meet one of the notorious pirates. And while you may see a few dashing Johnny Depp look-a-likes drudging about — don’t be fooled. These are professional historical reenactors, not buccaneering buffoons.


Blackbeard’s Pirate Jamboree on Ocracoke is three days of fact-based festivities. Smoke hangs heavy, riddling the air with the putrid scent of black powder. Cannon blast ripples the bellies of an anxious crowd. In the distance a flute’s sharp melody sounds the alarm: a Royal Navy ship closes in, tacking back and forth, guns drawn, swords at the ready. After a full morning of historical debauchery on Ocracoke, it’s time to witness the final clash that will end the world’s most infamous swashbuckler’s reign of terror. Perhaps an end to the flesh, but never the legend of Blackbeard the pirate. The real pirate. milepost


“So many pirate festivals are held with no local historical context,” says Blackbeard’s Pirate Jamboree founder and NC historian, Kevin Duffus. “But this event began as a private funeral for Blackbeard — and the 23 others who fell alongside him.” On November 22, 2008, Duffus decided he wanted to lead a small memorial service at Springer’s Point, along with members of a production company from Tidewater, Virginia. He purposely picked the authentic anniversary of Blackbeard’s death and

planned on a private eulogy. But walking toward the site, it became readily apparent that the word was out. “We gathered to form a funeral procession,” Duffus recalls. “As we headed out toward the beach we noticed that a crowd of around 200 people had fallen in behind us.” Armed with fresh inspiration, they convened at Back Porch Restaurant. They partook in a proper captain’s meal and planted the seeds for what would soon become a

“We are dedicated to accuracy,” shares Duffus. “It’s our job to peel away the layers of fiction often seen in Hollywood and present to our visitors the truth in history. This is my lifelong quest.” The weekend is designed to lead visitors through the life of a 19th century pirate. Friday starts small. Attendees gather at the Ocracoke Community Center to meet the players, watch skits, and hear a mix of tall tales and true stories. But Saturday is the main event. Here is where you get an inside look at how pirates really lived, as a full-on pirate encampment called the Brigands’

Bazaar fills the grounds of the Wahab House. Watch the cooks as they prepare a staple of ship’s biscuits and salt pork. Visit the blacksmith while he forges weapons. If you’re brave enough, check out the medical tent to learn how doctors of the time administered and treated various ailments. Minstrel songs fill the air from sun up to sun down, and there’s never a shortage of grog But by 1pm, see to it that you’ve claimed a space along the shores of Silver Lake for the main event. Cannons fire and swords rip through the air as three ships reenact Blackbeard’s last stand against Lt. Robert Maynard and his crew. “Participating and being a part of this day really is something special,” remarks Bennink. “We want to share this event with as many folks as possible so we can continue to grow and make each year better than the one before.” Please note: there will be no headless bodies swimming around. But if you want a real chill, spend Sunday taking part in the final day’s memorial service for the men killed in Blackbeard’s last battle. Walking that path to Springer’s Point, old graveyards slowly give way to the encroaching maritime forest, eventually spilling out onto those fateful shores rumored to hold a mass grave containing Blackbeard and all his men. From 10 a.m. to noon, Duffus leads the traditional ceremony with words of remembrance and hymns, before he lays a wreath at sea as the pirate ships fire one final cannon salute just offshore. Then the captain, crew and crowd alike all set sail — at least until the next October comes round. “This is our way of honoring the men that gave history something worth preserving,” says Duffus. “And there is no place more significant than Ocracoke when it comes to historical context. They have a lot to be proud of.” — Fran Marler

The 2016 Blackbeard’s Pirate Jamboree runs Oct. 28-30. For a full schedule of events, go to www.piratejamboree.com.

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Lodging: The island offers everything from charming, old school motels, B&Bs, condos, and pet-friendly homes. Book early, as additional Halloween festivities make this weekend increasingly popular. Camping is another option, but October can boast questionable weather — watch the horizon for storm clouds before making reservations. Roaming: Unless you’re driving on the beach, which requires an ORV permit, consider your car parked. All festivities take place within the heart of the village, making bikes and golf carts the most popular means of transportation. Both are available for rent, and drivers of both are still able to get DUIs — don’t end up in the brig. Eating: Should your ice chest be needing more treasures, check out the Ocracoke Variety Store, which has everything: veggies, fruit, meats, and all sorts of vittles. (Conveniently located next door to the ABC store, should the need arise for additional grog.) Or storm any number of local eateries, from pubs to taco stands. Raging: Please note that this event also coincides with numerous Halloween festivities. Expect parades with candy for the kiddos in the afternoon and raucous bands fueling numerous costume contests well into the night.

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Every year, the scene offers something more to get the senses tingling. From an everexpanding, visual venue. (Look for two oversized stages to spill across Whalehead’s front lawn.) To tongue-tantalizing additions, like a Craft Beer Village to pair with artisan vendors. And, of course, the music itself, as the 6th Annual Mustang Music Festival features the most eargasmic ensemble of artists to date — a mix of rising stars and proven performers — all handpicked by audiophile Mike Dianna. “‘Every time I try to take big steps forward,” says the live music madman. “But this year’s lineup is mindblowing.” We asked the co-founder and festival director to break down this fall’s fantasy picks.

“I like people to get out of their chairs and up on their feet. That’s what Ripe brings. Right now, they’re an up-and-coming, horn-driven funkand-soul band out of Boston. But they’re going to be everybody’s new favorite after the festival.”

“What’s Big Something? A big band, with a big following and a big future. They’ve got a little blues, a little jazz, a little R&B — but more than anything — they’re a big jam.”

“Lunar Test Drive is an all-local, bluesbased rock band. Just four regular dudes who don’t do any covers. That’s why I like them, because Mustang’s whole premise is original music.”

“I describe Fruition as ‘bluegrass plus drums.’ They’re rootsy sounding, but with a little more rock ’n roll, a little more rhythm, and a little more electric sound. And their on-stage playing offers something extra, too.”

Whatever you do, don’t lick this page. Photo: Chris Bickford

“In my opinion, Lettuce is the premier funk band on the planet right now. They blend in R&B, hiphop, and old-fashioned soul — with a little extra slap of psychedelia on the end.”

“The Mike Dillon Band is totally unpredictable. There’s nobody more ferocious on the xylophone or vibraphone. Mallets swinging. Sweat flying. Mike is also an Artist-at-Large, so he’ll host the Saturday late-night party at Cosmo’s. That’s going to be nuts.”

“Smooth Hound Smith is a duo who toured with the Dixie Chicks this summer. He plays guitar, sings and plays foot drums. She makes beautiful harmonies. Very cool. Very different. Very Nashville.”

“Yonder Mountain String band is a five-piece out of Colorado that pioneered the whole progressive, bluegrass, newgrass, jamgrass scene. To say they’re ‘highenergy’ is an understatement.”

“Farnell Newton is our other Artist-at-Large. He’s a really accomplished trumpeter out of Portland, Oregon who’s toured with Bootsy Collins. And his band is called The Othership Connection — so he knows how to bring the funk.”

“Growing up in Southeastern Pennsylvania, I watched G.Love come of age. He still tours as hard as ever. Just a musican’s musician who loves to play. So when I had the opportunity to book him, it was a no-brainer.”

“When Jerry Garcia died in 1995, moe. was one of the seminal jam bands that helped fill the void. I’ve driven six hours to see them play live. To watch them do two sets on Saturday in my hometown? It’s like a dream come true.”

The 6th Annual Mustang Music Festival runs Oct. 7-8 at the Whalehead in Corolla. For tickets and a complete schedule — including details on Thursday’s kick-off event and nightly afterparties — go to www.mustangmusicfestival.com. milepost 53

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But for those with a taste for adventure — and a yard full of nuisances — revenge is a dish best served hot. And there’s no better way than roasting them over an open flame. Here’s how: Step 1: Start up a grill or campfire.


Step 2: Extract plant from the ground and make sure it’s free of ergot (a purple fungus that can cause illness and even hallucinations).


Step 3: Hold the plant by the stems over open flame like a marshmallow, until they are singed — not burned.

IF YOU soundcheck CAN’T BEAT ’EM, getactive EAT ’EM

Step 4: Brush off any scorched spines, then bite them right off the stem. Hey, with enough you could even substitute for popcorn! Okay, maybe not. But it’s certainly a classic party trick for that next backyard BBQ. Or, a novelty grain to use in your next homebrew. Looking for a real menu addition with real flavor? Dig a little deeper — and pull up some “sunchokes.”


These forage-to-fork items bring a whole new meaning to being “in the weeds.”


Prickers and spines are the painful bane of our backyard existence. But what if there was a way to fend them off — and feed yourself? Well, ready your chompers, dust off those dentures and slather up the salivary glands, because here’s your chance to bite back — starting with one of the more sadistic varietals of weed: the grass bur. Or, as we all not-so-lovingly call it: the “sandspur.”



Officially known as Cenchrus longispinus, sandspurs are actually an annual warm season grass that flowers at the end of the summer — except in this case the

seed is protected by a bunch of tiny, prickly burs or spines, hence its name. Once the seeds “volunteer” in your yard, eradicating them can be a lifelong chore. ( Just removing them from your shoelaces is pure torture.) But don’t throw them out. As foraging expert and mastermind of the YouTube phenomenon, “Eat the Weeds,” Green Deane, notes, these “unintentional hitchhikers” are “the wild food that finds you.” Like any grain, sandspurs can be harvested and processed into a variety of consumable products, such as beer, porridge and flour.

graphiccontent the gosurf SPINE-TINGLER Check out this cactus-based

outthere margarita recipe, courtesy of the Food Network’s Emeril Lagasse.


cutting them into chunks, packing them into a jar, and covering them with hot pickle brine. Hearty. Obscure. Delicious.

The result is a hotpink potion that flows with flavor.

So, you’ve got your roasted sandspur app. The sunchoke hash is piled on a plate. Now you just need one more secret weapon weed to wow your dinner guests. Try Opuntia vulgaris — or, the eastern prickly pear cactus. This club of nasty barbs also has fruit you can harvest and turn into jams, preserves and pies — or something with a little extra kick. “We actually use prickly pear juice in our margaritas,” says Matt Payne, head chef of Bad Bean in Kitty Hawk. “But it’s a pretty labor-intensive process.”

Otherwise known as the earth apple or Jerusalem Artichoke (no relation to the country or the veggie), this invasive species of sunflower makes gardeners cringe but delights local chefs, like Urban Kitchen’s Joe Paneras. With a small menu that rotates with the seasons, this Corolla eatery is known to feature everything from carrot top pesto to celery root puree — and even a cat briar salad. Sunchokes are a particularly easy side.

And time-consuming. The fruit doesn’t ripen until October. Come fall, Payne gathers up to 60 pounds of pears from a nearby cacti honey hole. After washing the fruit and removing the fine prickers, Payne peels them and cooks them down with sugar, then uses an emersion blender to separate the seed from the flesh. The end result is a hot-pink potion that looks striking — and flows with flavor and local pride.

“To bring out the natural sweetness, we add them to a root veggie hash,” says Paneras. “Or for a nice crunch we make them into chips.”

“Using seasonal products is always something I enjoy sharing with people,” says Payne. “Especially if it’s close to the beach.”

Want to enjoy them all year? Paneras recommends leaving the root unpeeled,

And it’s a hell of a way to spike any punch bowl. — Fran Marler



• • • • • •

Combine the tequila, Cointreau, lime juice, and pear syrup in a cocktail shaker. Shake vigorously to incorporate. Wet the rim of a margarita glass and dip into salt and sugar mixture. Pour margarita into glass over ice. Garnish with a kumquat and a curled piece of lime peel.

3 ounces tequila blanco 1/2 ounce Cointreau 1 1/2 ounces lime juice 2 ounces prickly pear syrup (recipe on FoodNetwork.com) Kosher salt and turbinado sugar, for garnishing the glass Kumquats and lime peels, for garnish

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Rodanthe 20 years back. “These guys would’ve all ended up in a band no matter what, but they pulled me into it.” Full of folksy wisdom and sly turns of phrase scrawled down over three decades, Byrd’s backlog of chords and lyrics laid the foundation for a growing canon of working class, feel-good-when-it’s-bad blues and folk where everyone contributes. Some are stompy and upbeat. Others almost Velvet Underground somber. And they’re all full of white booted populism and humorous self-deprecation.



Songs like “Working Is For Chumps” roast the local rep for lazy moods, while “Irene” pokes fun at disaster by explicitly suggesting the storm “[BLEEPED] everyone in town.” Good, bad or just plain confusing, it’s all worth celebrating, and it all goes on the campfire for public combustion.


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Cooper, Wells, Byrd and Durham feel the love. Photo: Chris Bickford

Blurky’s Quirky Friends preach the joys, pains and pure realities of island life. If this band were a building, they’d be a saltbox. Full of beachy charm and gritty curb appeal. Shaky at times, but still holding strong on a structure of four players and a handful of instruments — guitars, banjo, fiddle and bass, harmonica, tambourine, and maybe a sleigh bell or two. Singing, swaying, their voices rise like pilings from a flood of opposing truths, channeling all the stormy emotions of the “down south” dichotomy: salvation and sin, tragedy and survival, pride and punishment.

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rearview “There’s a lot of feeling in our music,” says Barry Wells, the 32-year-old “skipper” of Blurky’s Quirky Friends. “I don’t have any shame in saying I cried myself to sleep last night. Any kind of truth, we’re not scared to put it out there.”

That can be positive — say, a testament to the community that only gets tighter in the face of a land-falling hurricane. Or the temptation to get lost in a tempest of bad habits. As they say in “Easytown”: “You can get your kicks, you can get your fix in Easytown… You can make a mess, you can go get blessed in Easytown.” What else can you expect from an act born between ramshackle open stages and a surprise 90th birthday celebration two Mays ago? Add a couple summers and you get a one-of-kind “minstrel folkadelic” act, jamming

everything from backyard pop-up parties to pubs, from Frisco to Corolla. But home or abroad, “the Blurks” still proudly beam that oddball, Hatteras vibe, sporting ripped tees and hoodies like they were banging out homes instead of songs. In the words of one random bystander at a recent gig: “You can tell these guys are from down south.” Start with “Jack Frost” — aka Lisa Cooper. With a shock of white hair up top and two-tone Vans below, this female fiddler and bass player boasts a full 42 years living in Buxton. On the other side of the age-and-experience spectrum, you’ve got Blake Durham, who’s yet to see his second Outer Banks winter but still belts keen insights on local culture. (Along with banjo licks, bold lyrics, and big, sweaty grins.) Then there’s Wells. Bearded and boisterous, the Rodanthe resident’s rocked guitar, run karaoke shows and written original music for the past decade — ever since he met his dear, dreadlocked foil, Richard Byrd. This soft-spoken, 60-year-old local artist has strummed back porch chords for decades, yet never dreamed of pouring his guts out center stage. “I guess I’m the lucky guy,” says Byrd, a Rocky Mount native who bounced between NYC and LA before settling in

Voices rise like pilings from a flood of opposing truths.

“That’s why I wrote ‘Easytown,’” says Durham. “Every place has two sides to it. Some people find the rowdy side. Or they can find the love of their life. And it’s easy depending what side you’re on. It’s always that double-edged thing.”

All that conflict makes for great inspiration. So much, they have fodder left over to play live under a couple of spinoffs. (Lose Cooper, you get a stripped-down trio called Pop Nichols. Switch Blake to bass, put Jacob Richardson on drums, and you get The Goblins.) They’ve also recorded three EPs in Wells’ garage — aka “Anafrog Studios” — where everything starts on an old eight-track for extra authenticity. Now they’re working on a full-length called Betty. But this time, they aim to polish it up — just not too much. “A lot of songs we learned on the fly as we performed, because we didn’t want to stalemate people with the same old, same old,” says Wells. “We want to make our next one a little bit more professional, but we don’t want to lose that organic rawness. Some of our favorite parts started out as mistakes.” And it’s those imperfections that often lead to the most sublime performances. At any time, you might get a killer jam — or a blatant oopsie. Both will be met with the same response: a shrug and a smile. They’re happy to share it all, as they croon together with pure adoration, locking eyes as they sing each others’ praises. Sad, mad, slow or manic, every tune remains a love song to each other and the island. Or at least this particular island. “We’re certainly not beach music,” says Frost. “Some of it’s pretty dark. But it’s always joyful. And there’s an edge to our music that I like. Because we do live on the edge here — don’t we?” — Leo Gibson milepost 57

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A HEART THING Mary Edwards’ watercolors reflect more than mere reality.

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Studio with a view. Photo: Ryan Moser milepost


“That house just always drew me,” says the 70-year-old Currituck resident with a gift for watercolors. “I could feel it like a magnet. I’ve painted it four times in the past seven years.” Each time her efforts paid off, either with a quick sale or a noteworthy award. She’s won recognition from various art shows and groups, including the North Carolina Watercolor Society, the Arts of the Albemarle, and the local Frank Stick and Mollie Fearing shows. It’s a fitting tribute to her skills — and her story. Though she spent 30 years living in the DC area, she discovered her passion for art as a child growing up in Sanford, a rural town just outside of Raleigh. “My eureka art moment came when I was drawing a landscape in the second grade,” Edwards says serenely, her blue eyes surrounded by a wispy halo of blonde fringe. “Seeing the world I created was exhilarating. I felt alive inside and life made sense.” By 14, Edwards was winning her first art awards. By high school, her classmates’ parents were asking her for portraits of their children. But her parents weren’t so enthused. They began hiding her art supplies and urging her to pursue something more useful and financially sound. Art college was out of the question. Still, she continued, and remained self-taught until 1969. That’s when she enrolled in Art Academy in San Francisco and received some professional training and real encouragement. “My first instructor refused to believe I’d never had drawing lessons,” Edwards recalls. “It convinced me to continue.” Edwards eventually went on to pursue four years of education in fine arts at George Mason University in Northern Virginia, where she lived and painted for three decades. But something was missing. In 2001, she was ready to migrate to a place she had often visited as a child and always dreamed of living: coastal North Carolina. “There’s something about the people,” she explains. “They’re sturdy, they’re real, they’re resourceful. They just kind of put a hook in my heart and pulled me here.” Today, Edwards and her husband live in a 160-year-old farmhouse in Currituck, where she lives simply in order to make time for her art. Edwards favors watercolor for its “luminosity,” which allows her to capture the texture of hair and skin in her portraits; atmosphere, mood, and light in her landscapes. Subjects may include a lighthouse or church — or just a park bench. And she is continually inspired by the creative community on the Outer Banks — and the area itself. “I love painting with other artists because there’s a synergy,” she says. “My analogy is a log doesn’t burn very long by itself, but with others you get quite a fire going. And the arts council has a wonderful group going. They’re very supportive.”

Every Tuesday in winter, she and her watercolor colleagues gather in Manteo’s gallery for a friendly workshop. But it’s not so much the medium or subjects that set her work apart, but how she does it. While many artists might project a photo on a canvas to capture the most delicate details, Edwards freehands from to start to finish — no matter how complex. The degree of dimension she achieves leaves you feeling like you could reach into the canvas and interact with its subject. “She is an excellent draftsman, rendering intricate drawings for her base, then building color through washes and glazes,” says Fay Davis Edwards, Programs Director for the Dare County Arts Council. “Her paintings have a bold use of color that really vibrate with light and shadow.”

Edwards’ luminosity captures texture mood, and light.

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A good example would be her recent “Yellow Bicycle” series. Depicting her son’s 10-speed in various poses, every element casts its own shadow — from racks to spokes — all of it saturated in a dreamy “golden hour” quality of a dipping sun. “Yellow Bicycle 2” took home the Blue Ribbon Excellence Award in the 2016 Frank Stick show. Then “Yellow Bicycle 1” was selected for this fall’s Watercolor Society of North Carolina’s Annual Conference and Juried Exhibition. And yet, for all the accolades and attention, Edwards says she paints mostly for herself. She views it as a form of expression, communication and therapy. These cathartic properties far outweigh any material rewards her paintings may bring.


Bicycles. Birds. Piers. Lighthouses. Mary Edwards has painted them all over the years. But it was an unassuming cottage in downtown Manteo that continually captured her imagination. Located on the corner of Agona and Uppowoc, each time she saw the Mamie St. Clair house it pulled at her heart — and made her pick up a brush over and over.



“I’ve never had the mindset that I would be famous or make a lot of money,” she explains. “It was always a heart thing. To have people respond to and love what I do is the ultimate goal. Just to connect.” And that brings us back to the Mamie St. Clair house. After painting several editions, a member of her local painting group told her the home’s full history: the dwelling started out on Hatteras Island in the 1800s. Its original owners dragged and floated the home from the Chicamacomico Lifesaving Station to its current location on Roanoke Island. There the family raised eleven children in the home’s two small rooms. Turns out Edwards also felt mysteriously drawn to the lifesaving station — even completing an award-winning watercolor entitled “Chicamacomico LSS.”

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“A unique garden minutes from the beach, but worlds apart!”

For her, the connection was no mere coincidence. It was a revelatory moment illustrating how there is something special that binds our coastal home together — and her to our home — and a reminder that every artist is a medium for both the seen and unseen. “I believe that is the essence of why I had to paint them,” she muses. “Both locations represent the passion of native Outer Bankers to survive — and triumph.” — Hannah Bunn West To view watercolors by Mary Edwards and other state-wide standouts — including fellow Outer Bankers Peggy Saporito, Carol Trotman and Eileen Tullner — head to the Dare County Arts Council Gallery for the 2016 Watercolor Society of North Carolina’s Annual Conference and Juried Exhibition, Oct. 8-Nov.18. Learn more at www.darearts.org.




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Buxton’s annual 9-11 Memorial Stair Climb is a silent reminder of a national sorrow — and a stunning tribute to never-ending sacrifice. Forget “never forget.” That sounds like a chore. A command that you must be reminded to think about something you’d otherwise ignore. This is an honor. A shared commitment to always remember the men and women who died on America’s darkest day in recent memory. Especially for those who didn’t witness it firsthand. “We have a lot of firefighters here who may have been pre-kindergarten when 9-11 happened,” says Jeffrey Del Monte, Deputy Fire Chief for Buxton Volunteer Fire Department. “You and I don’t remember Pearl Harbor like our grandparents do. So when you look at really holding true to the idea of ‘never forget,’ we felt we owed it to our fellow emergency responders to do something more.”

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So, in 2013, Del Monte organized the first stair climb at Cape Hatteras Lighthouse. As a career firefighter for the Town of Duck, he’d participated in similar events in other states. He knew the importance of keeping the day pure. No publicity hype. No self-promotional chest thumping. He simply asked the Park Service for permission, then started spreading the word. That year, roughly 25 firefighters answered the call — mostly from Hatteras Island. By 2015, there were nearly 50 participants, including active volunteers from surrounding departments and retirees from as far as Pennsylvania.

Reflect. Respect. Endure. Photos: Daniel Pullen

They start at the exact time the plane struck the first tower.

2001. Then they open the floor to anyone who cares to share their reflections from that day.

“Climbing the lighthouse in full gear is tough,” says Del Monte. “You’re breathing heavy. Your legs are burning. But it’s a quarter of what those guys climbed that morning — much less everything else they went through. It’s very somber. And very humbling.”

Between the families of firefighters on-site for support, visitors who randomly gather, and the 15th anniversary, it’s likely this year’s climb will see more people around the base of the lighthouse than ever before. But no matter how many show to pay tribute, Del Monte insists the focus will always be about the brave souls who lost everything.

After collecting briefly at the top to reflect, they descend back down, making sure they exit by 10:28am — the moment the last tower collapsed. At the bottom, they gather once more for a moment of silence to remember all the civilians and responders who didn’t get out — plus the thousands more who died from cancer and other exposure-related illnesses since

“We recognize we’ve probably missed some people who’d like to be involved by keeping it so low-key,” Del Monte admits. “But we’re adamant that it never becomes a publicity stunt. We don’t sell shirts or do fundraisers. There’s no money exchanged or applications handed out. This day is about remembrance — and that’s it.”

No matter who shows, they follow the same process. Everyone gathers the morning of September 11. Those who can, don their helmets, masks and fire suits, so they can start the climb at 8:46am — the exact time the plane struck the first tower. They leave radios on as they make their way up, tuning into the exact timeline of the day’s tragic events. Otherwise, the stairway is silent, except for the sound of footsteps, deep breaths and their own thoughts of what their colleagues in New York faced inside the World Trade Center.

Last year, that included some very personal words from Mike Regan. An Avon homeowner and former Fairfax County responder, Regan was part of the first team to go into the Pentagon in 2001. Since then, he’s made presentations all over the country, but for 2016, he plans to be back in Buxton. “I’m proud to be here with these guys,” says Regan. “Volunteers make up most of the firefighters in the nation. So for a group of volunteers to pay tribute in a place so remote from the actual event, is a real tribute to the day’s events and the people who sacrificed. And it’s an honor to be a part of.”

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Cultural Series presents

Coming Fall 2016 2016 Surf and Sounds Chamber Music Series Tuesday, August 23 7pm All Saints Episcopal Church Southern Shores, NC Wednesday, August 24 7pm Town of Duck Amphitheater, Duck NC Thursday, August 24 Blue Point, Duck NC Friday, August 26 7pm Dare County Arts Council, Manteo NC All concerts are FREE!

endnotes Get a grip on your SUP skills at Manteo’s Bic One Design Series, Sept 2 — and Frisco’s PaddlePalooza, Sept. 10. Photo: Don Bowers

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Take us to your future leaders. That’s the point of the Outer Banks Chamber of Commerce’s 2016-2017 Leadership OBX Program, which encourages participants to take charge of community issues. A retreat and nine full-day sessions cover topics ranging from government to health care, starting Oct. 19. A limited number of scholarships are available via Outer Banks Community Foundation. Get your app in by Aug. 31. Learn more at www.outerbankschamber.com. • Or just lay back and watch dudes surf as the 2016 Wave Riding Vehicles Outer Banks Pro returns to Jennette’s Pier, Aug. 31-Sept. 4. This World Surf League qualifier draws international pros for big points, a hefty purse and flying swag from here to the horizon — plus nightly parties with Pacifico. (Like when ASG fuels the moshpit at the Outer Banks Brewing Station on Sept. 4.) Even the “down days” blow up with fun-filled hijinks, like the Foam Board Jam. Get a full schedule and updates at www.obxpro.com. • Sick of the beach? On Sept. 2, shoot over to Downtown Manteo as Kitty Hawk Kites’ 2016 BIC SUP One Design Series sweeps the sound to wrap up the season. Brief clinics precede competition to bring novices up to speed. Registration starts at 9am. Check www.kittyhawk.com for specific details. • Come 6pm, drop that paddle and grab a pint as Sept. 2’s First Friday fills the quaint waterfront with friendly vibes, late shopping and live music — plus the opening reception for Dare County Arts Council’s newest exhibit by the Carolinas’ Nature Photographers Association. (Learn more at www.cnpa.org.) And come back Oct. 7 to see Lisa Slaker’s latest acrylic works, followed by fresh collaborative paintings by Kayleigh Trott and Ellen Usher on Nov. 4. Full deets at www.darearts.org. • Even better, pre-game your creative fix at Sept. 2’s Island Art Show. From 10am-5pm, 20+ Outer Banks artists descend on the Rodanthe-Waves-Salvo Community Center with paintings, prints, pottery and more, all to help local causes like the SPCA and Hatteras Island Meals. Miss this one? Come back for the season’s finale on Oct. 10. Find Spinfinite Designs on Facebook for a list of artists and updates. • On Sept. 3, engage in some physical graffiti when ZoSo: The Ultimate Led Zeppelin Experience rocks Roanoke Island Festival Park with all the sound, feel and ferocity of Plant, Page, Bonham, and Jones. Yes, there will be beer, wine and food. No, you can’t bring your cooler. And no animals allowed. (Except maybe “Black Dog.”) Get tix and specs on parking, VIP passes and more at www.roanokeisland.com. • Did someone say “plant”? On Sept. 3, Elizabethan Garden’s Techniques and Tips for Plant Propagation shows you how to home-grow annuals, perennials and shrubs, 12-2pm. (State and federal laws still apply, hippie!) Or paint some greenery, Sept 12-14, when Linda Miller leads the Botanical Watercolor: Fall Studio Workshop, 9:30am-3:30pm. And loosen up naturally with Yoga in the Gardens, every Wed., thru Sept. 21 at 9am. Pricing and details on all events at


The Surf and Sounds Quintet - Duck Amphitheater 2015

NC Watercolor Association Annual Exhibition

In cooperation with the Dare County Arts Council Dare Council Arts Council Gallery Manteo, NC October 9 - November 18 Exhibition opening and reception Sunday, October 9, 2–4pm

Whiskey and Twain, an Evening with Mark Twain with Ryan Clemens Wednesday, November 2 Hilton Garden Inn Tickets on Sale Thursday, September 1

Tickets and more information at BryanCulturalSeries.org Our endowment managed by the



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www.elizabethangardens.org. • The flexin’ don’t stop there. Stretch up to Duck’s final installments of Yoga on the Green, (Sept. 6 & 13) and Dynamic Flow on the Green (Sept 7 & 14). Both run 7:30-8:15am and are fully free. Or just take an educational stroll with the NC Aquarium’s Nature on the Boardwalk, 9-10:30am, Sept 15 & Oct. 20. More at www. townofduck.com. • And keep moving those feet every Mon. at Kelly’s. From 6-9pm, Outer Banks Shag Club cuts loose — and cuts a rug — to preserve and promote Carolina beach music. A $3 charge covers the DJ. Step over to www.obxshagclub.com for details. • So, why are we talking about Thanksgiving on Sept. 6? Because that’s the day registration opens for Duck’s 21st Annual Running of the Advice 5K Turkey Trot. It fills up in minutes, so dash to www.advice5.com at 6am to claim your spot. • Let creative expression get your heart pumpin’ when the OBX Arts & Craft Festival comes to Kitty Hawk’s Hilton Garden Inn, Sept. 7-8. Enjoy painting, pottery, jewelry, photography, basketry, and more from 25 local artists — all while supporting N.E.S.T. and the Dare Literacy Council. 10am-5pm. Find their Facebook page for a full lineup. • Then spend the weekend flying a rainbow flag — and throwing shade at HB2 — when the 6th Annual Outer Banks Pridefest returns, Sept. 9-11, to celebrate the LGBTQ community and their supporters. On Fri. enjoy sunset cruises on the Crystal Dawn and Country Girl before a concert with Steve Grand at Pamlico Jack’s at 9pm. Sat. features a free festival at the First Colony Inn with bands, food and vendors — plus fresh comedy by Suzanne Westenhoefer at the Outer Banks Brewing Station at 10pm. Kick-off Sun. with a 10am Drag Brunch at Pamlico Jack’s, then cap it off that night with Jamie Monroe’s Wrap Party at Kelly’s. Find a complete schedule, prices and 3-day Pride Passes at www.obxpridefest.com. Just remember: all daytime activities are family friendly — all nighttime activities are not. • Who doesn’t love a good pianist? On Sept. 10, the Outer Banks Forum for the Lively Arts brings jazz, pop and bluesman, Al Croce — son of legendary singer-songwriter, Jim Croce — for “Croce-Two Generations of American Music.” This year’s Performing Arts Series also features “chamber soul” by cellist Shana Tucker (Oct. 8) and fiddle wunderkind and silver-voiced singer April Verch (Nov. 12.) Shows start at 7:30pm at First Flight High School. $28; $15 for students under 17. Online purchase and season passes at to www.outerbanksforum.org. • Or a good pale ale? Power down some craft beers — and power up the amps — as the Brew Pub’s fall lineup hops with musical flavors infused with local rock (Formula, Sept. 10), lively reggae (Medicated Sunfish, Sept. 17; Sensi Trails, Sept. 24) and indie roots (Travelers, Oct. 29). Full calendar at www.obbrewing.com. • Savor the sweet sound of plastic slapping water when the Hatteras Island Cancer Foundation’s Paddle Palooza hits Frisco Woods Campground, Sept. 10. This all-day event features clinics and races for every SUP level. More at www.hicf.org. • Or just enjoy the soothing sound of fish whispering when the Cape Hatteras Anglers Club holds their monthly meeting and covered dish dinner, Sept. 10. (Doors open at 6pm; open to members and their guests.) And the whole world is welcome to cry “bingo” any Wed. night at 7pm. Details at www.capehatterasanglersclub.org. • It ain’t easy being hooked. On Sept. 10, at 9am, be at First Flight High for the 7th Annual Walk Against Addiction, where proceeds go toward public education and treatment for substance abuse. The day’s events include words by Sasha Tozzi, raffles with prizes from local businesses, plus a free cookout. $10 entry fee buys a tote bag; $15 scores a shirt. More at www.walkagainstaddiction.org. • Happiness is just a breast and thigh away when Fried Chicken Night returns to Rundown Café every Mon., starting Sept. 12. Think meat is murder? Come to Thurs.’ Vegetarian Night and commit mass genocide on everything green. Both start at 5pm; deets and more eats at www.rundowncafe.com. • Wanna steep yourself in the past? Take in the Graveyard Atlantic Museum’s Civil War Tea, Tour and Talk on Sept. 15, where period food — and period costuming — bring history to life. (5:30-7:30pm; call 252-986-2295 to reserve space.) And the Salty Dawg Lecture Series continues every Tues. at 2pm: Sept. 20’s Artifact Discovery
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endnotes with Jamie Lanier, while Jim Bunch decodes the U-85’s The Enigma Machine on Sept. 27. And Drew Pullen relives the Civil War on Hatteras Island every Wed. thru Nov. 16 at 2:30pm. Deets on these and other events at www.graveyardoftheatlantic.com. • What a racket! On Sept. 15-18, the Outer Banks Tennis Association’s 14th Annual Charity Classic promotes competitive tennis in northeast NC and raises cash for local hospice care. Co-hosted by Duck Woods Country Club, the Westside Athletic Club, the Pine Island Racquet & Fitness Club, and the Corolla Light Resort, this four-day tournament is open to all players 16 and older. Sign up and learn more at www.outerbanks.usta.com. • Work on your stoke, Sept. 15-17, when the 2nd Annual Surfalorus Film Festival swings through town with regional and local surf flicks at various venues — plus a surf craft exhibit at Manteo’s Dare County Arts Council. Drift over to www.darearts.org for complete deets. • And for a showstopper of heart-warming heats, be at Southern Shores’ Chicahauk Beach Access, Sept. 17, for the 8th Annual Throwdown North of Town Surf Classic, where surfers of all ages compete to help one local family in need. Sign up, sponsor and learn more about this year’s battle at www.throwdownsurf.com. • Celebrate Hatteras Island’s waterman heritage when Day at the Docks dishes up the best locally caught seafood — and plate after plate of community spirit — Sept. 16-17. On Fri at 4pm, gather ‘round the Lee Robinson General Store for the 5th Annual Taste of North Carolina, Hatteras Style to enjoy beer, wine, food and Blurky’s Quirky Friends. Then, at 7pm, join three NC chefs — like Red Sky Cafe’s Wes Stepp — for Talk of the Villages. And Sat. features a full day of activities at Oden’s Dock, including the Fishy 5k Fun Run, Concrete Marlin Contest and Blessing of the Fleet. Plus, there’s lots of tasty music and vittles, featuring the annual Hatteras Island Cancer Foundation Chowder-Cook-Off. Full schedule and updates at www.hatterasonmymind.com. • Then get blown away by live kite surfing action when Real Watersports’ Cape Hatteras Wave Classic returns Sept. 17-23. This event is 100% ocean — and 100% open — allowing anyone to seize the day’s wind for prize money and a boost in reputation. Full deets at www.realwatersports.com. • Plastic boat fiends will pop a rod for Sept. 17’s Kitty Hawk Surf Co. Kayak Fishing Tournament. This dawn-todusk catch-and-release tournament runs from Bonner Bridge to the Wright Memorial Bridge, with a shot at $500 in prizes. $40 entry includes a captain’s cookout after the event. Learn more at www.khsurf.com. • For a real wild ride, boot-scoot over to Powell’s Point on Sept. 17 for the Currituck Heritage Festival “Bulls and BBQ” Throwdown to enjoy the Kansas City Barbeque Society Competition, horseback riding and tricks with the 4-H Club, live music by the Mikele Buck Band, and a bull riding rodeo from 7-9pm. Full bucking schedule at www.visitcurrituck.com. • And the region’s best athletes are fixin’ to wrangle when the Outer Banks Triathlon returns Sept. 17-18. This sprint-distance race is perfect for those dipping their toes in the world of biking, swimming and running. Hate foot races? Try the Aquabike category. Prefer to just pedal? Take part in this year’s first-ever Outer Banks Cycle Race. Find all the new categories, combos and details at www.outerbankstriathlon. com. • Or push your personal cultural limits with spicy food and music at Sept. 18’s 3rd Annual OBX Latin Festival. From 11:30am-6pm, be at First Flight Middle School for authentic dishes and dances from Mexico, Cuba and El Salvador — plus a children’s soccer workshop and tournament — all to support Mano al Hermano. Find the full list at www.obxlatinfestival.com. • Then the competition really heats up at the 49th Annual ESA Eastern Surfing Championships, Sept. 18-24. This top amateur comp turns Jennette’s Pier into a gladiator pit of future pros and fierce legends from Maine to Miami. More at www.surfesa.org. • Circle up for some daggone good music when the Outer Banks Bluegrass Festival returns, Sept. 20-24. Kick things off at Sept. 20’s Bluegrass on the Farm with Nu Blu at The Island Farm. Then, pack the lawn at Roanoke Island Festival Park, Sept. 21-24, for three full days of finger pickin’ good acts like the Soggy Bottom Boys, Tony Rice Tribute, Rhonda Vincent, Steep Canyon Rangers, Doyle Lawson, and more. Plus, Boomgrass lights the night with fireworks on Sept. 22. Get the full lineup, ticket info and parking details at www.bluegrassisland.com. • Enjoy a full weekend of 4WD fanaticism,

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5th Annual

Oct. 15, 2016 • 10:30am - 6pm Santuary Vineyards’ CrabDaddy delivers pickin’, grinnin’ and games, Sept. 24. Photo: Brooke Mayo

Sept. 22-25, when Offroading With Luke and Eddie’s Outer Banks Jeep Mutiny mixes treasure hunts, parties, poker runs and convoys. Hit www.offroadingwithlukeandeddie.com for details. • Hearing impaired? On Sept. 22, slip up to Currituck Beach Lighthouse as the NC Division of Services for the Deaf and Hard of Hearing offers free American Sign Language interpreted climbs at 11am, 2pm and 3pm. Home school groups encouraged. More at www.currituckbeachlight.com. • Engage every sense, Sept. 24, when the 27th Annual Artrageous Art Extravaganza returns to KDH Rec Park with hands-on activities, eye-popping displays and delicious food. Proceeds support the DCAC Youth Scholarship Fund. 10am-3pm. To learn more — or to volunteer time — go to www.darearts.org. • Keep teasing those taste buds with Sept. 24’s Crabdaddy at Sanctuary Vineyards. From 128pm enjoy all the jimmies and sooks you can crack — plus local beer and wine, and plenty of cool games, including hayrides, grape stomping and the Crabdaddy Olympics. Pricing and deets at www.sanctuaryvineyards.com. • Before you pick crabs, help pick up trash — and enjoy a free party — when Outer Banks Surfrider Foundation hosts their 30th Annual Big Sweep, Sept. 24. Same deal as ever: nab a data card and bags from a designated spot between Kitty Hawk and Nags Head, go clean your favorite beach or soundside access, then bring the results to TrashFest at the Outer Banks Brewing Station for free food, beer and live music, 12:30–4pm. Find bag spots and details at outerbanks. surfrider.org. • Stuck down south? Lucky for you, the NC Beach Buggy Association has a Sept. 24 Operation Beach Respect & Adopt A Highway event at all Hatteras Island and Ocracoke access ramps. (Plus one more on Nov. 12.) More at www.ncbbaonline.com. • On Sept. 24, pay tribute to aviation history without spending a cent when Wright Bros. National Memorial celebrates National Public Lands Day by waiving entry fees. (You can also get in for free on Nov. 11 in honor of Veterans Day.) More at www.nps.gov. • Enjoy a free flight through time every day of the week with the Outer Banks History Center’s Enjoy Your Parks: Celebrating 100 Years of the National Parks. This yearlong exhibit uses vintage photos and art to tell how Cape Hatteras National Seashore, Fort Raleigh National Historic Site and Wright Brothers National Memorial all came to be. Call for 252-473-2111 for times and details. • Piece together your own vision of beauty when KDH Co-Operative Gallery teaches Mosaic For Adults each Thurs., Sept. 29-Nov.3. Meanwhile, kiddos ages 5-10 get a crash course in clay, painting, drawing, collage, and craft with Fred Vallade’s Budding Artists Workshop, every Wed., Sept. 28-Nov. 16. And Julie Moye hosts a Tues. Creativity Studio for Teens & Tweens, ages 11-14, Sept. 27-Nov. 15. Prices and times at www.kdhcoop.com. • Bathe in golden light batter at NC Coastal

$5 Admission* Includes: Live Entertainment Arts & Crafts• Cooking Demos Educational Programs Highlighting Our Local Seafood Industry *Children Under Age 12 FREE when accompanied with adult

Purchase “SeaBucks”

($1) to Redeem with Restaurants or Festival Merchandise

The Soundside Event Site • MP 16 • 6800 S. Croatan Hwy. • Nags Head, NC

OuterBanksSeafoodFestival.org This project is funded in part by the Outer Banks Visitors Bureau.

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endnotes Federation’s 5th Annual Fish Fry and Shrimp Boil, Sept. 30, 4:30-8pm, at their Wanchese office. Each plate purchased supports a clean, healthy coast. Get your $15 advance tix at Café Lachine and Front Porch Cafe. ($20 at door.) To learn more — and score raffle tix to win a stand-up paddleboard — visit www.nccoast.org. • The Island Farm Pumpkin Patch pumps out the orange gourds every single Sat., Oct. 1-29 — plus offers oxdrawn wagon rides, cornhusk dolls, candle making, and scarecrow photos. $8 gets you in; another $5 buys a pumpkin. For specific times and details go to www.theislandfarm.com. • And jack-o-lantern season’s just beginning as Nags Head Elementary School Pumpkin Fair arrives Oct. 1, with rides, activities, bake sales, a silent auction, and fun run, 10am-3pm. That means Kitty Hawk Elementary’s Fall Carnival must be Oct. 8, from 10am-4pm, with raffle tix going out in mid-Sept. Both events always need volunteers and donations, so find ’em on Facebook. • Done carving? Go shredding, Oct. 1, when the First Annual Dare 2 Care OBX Shred Fest drops mini-ramps and live music on the Soundside. From 2-9pm, enjoy pro skaters and BMXers, with rockin’ shows by Freedom Hawk, Fujiwara, The Hot Signals, Formula, Dunebilly, Mudhustler, Life, Love & Lunatics, and Mustang Outreach Student Bands. Plus, there’s a kid’s zone, art vendors and a silent auction — all to support local veterans and the special needs community. Tix and updates at www. dare2careobx.com. • The Kill Devil Derby Brigade Shredfest Invitational keeps on rollin’, Oct. 2, at KDH’s Aviation Park, where an all-star selection of the region’s toughest derby girls start battling at 2pm — and gather donations for the local food bank. Follow ’em on Facebook. • And it’s the fishermen’s turn to tangle as they line up for a string of fall tourneys, like the 66th Annual Nags Head Surf Fishing Club Invitational Tournament (Oct. 5-7), 31st Annual Capital City Four Wheelers Surf Fishing Tournament (Oct. 15) and the NCBBA 8th Annual Red Drum Tournament (Oct. 19-22). Go to www.nccba.org for the freshest calendar. • Reel in the latest design and décor ideas, Oct. 6-9, when the 24th Annual Outer Banks Parade of Homes provides a self-guided tour through dozens of homes featuring top trends and materials — all by the biggest grand poobah’s in the biz. More at www.obhomebuilders.org. • And Oct. 7-8, Manteo Rotary Club’s Inshore Slam returns to raise funds for local college kids, as competitors reel in four categories of fish: stripers, flounder, puppy drum, and speckled trout. Over the past 16 years, they’ve provided $275,000 for deserving Dare County students. Learn more at www.rockfishrodeo.com. • Bluegrass fans blitz south, Oct. 6-8, for Hatterasity, where live acts include Special Consensus, Danny Paisley, Crop Circle Agents, Blackwater Tradition, and more. Plus catch historic tours and tales with Danny Couch and a kids’ program by Cape Hatteras Music Academy. Get pricing, details and local discounts at www.hatterasitybluegrass.com. • Jam over to Koru Village, Oct. 8, for the HICF’s 13th Annual 5K Fun Run — one of many Oct. events in support of Breast Cancer Awareness Month, such as Oct. 15’s 2nd Annual Fish Like A Girl tourney and Oct 22’s Pink Party at Pangea Tavern. In-between look for Taps for Tatas and Bras for A Cause. Or just party with a purpose at Pangea’s Octobeerfest on Oct. 1 and Oct. 31’s Trunk or Treat at the Beach Klub. Get a full sched at www.koruvillage.com. • The drama resumes, Oct. 7-16, when Theatre of Dare opens its 26th season with the drop-dead funny political comedy, Lying In State. Come Nov., witness the ups-and-downs of a well-to-do household in The Dining Room. Both shows are at COA. Get tix, details and audition dates at www. theatreofdareobx.com. • And the screams echo when PsychoPath: Carnevil opens, Oct. 7. This all new twist on The Lost Colony’s favorite haunted attraction plays every Fri. and Sat. thru Oct. 29. $13. Tix available at www.thelostcolony.org or 252-473-6000. • On Oct. 8, the NC Aquarium continues its re-opening ceremonies with a rededication of the grave site of Richard Etheridge, founder of the first all-black lifesaving station at Pea Island. And sweet news for the kids: Trick or Treat Under the Sea swims back into town, Oct. 26-27. Complete deets at www.ncaquariums.com. • Dive into literature, Oct. 8, when Dare Literacy Council’s Bi-Annual Book Sale comes to KDH’s Family Rec Center, 9am-3pm. Funds raised purchase materials to help volunteer tutors and students. Find more info at

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www.dareliteracy.org. • Take in some exciting, outdoor entertainment with two free Saturday Red Wolf Howlings at the Alligator River National Wildlife Refuge on Oct. 8 & Nov. 12. Pea Island Bird Walks go down year-round, every Fri., 8-9:30am. (Except Oct. 21.) And give the toddlers a treat when the Free Preschool Young Naturalist Program continues each Fri., 10-11am, at Roanoke Island’s National Wildlife Refuges Visitor Center. Call 252-473-1131 for details and reservations. • Are you a wildling for live bands? On Oct. 7-8, head north of the wall to Corolla for Mustang Music Festival, where the most powerful lineup yet storms Whalehead, including moe., Lettuce, G. Love and Special Sauce, Yonder Mountain String Band, Mike Dillon, Smooth Hound Smith, Fruition, Big Something, Ripe, Empire Strikes Brass, and Lunar Test Drive. Plus there’s an encampment of crafty artists — and an assortment of late-night jams. Proceeds benefit the Corolla Wild Horse Fund — and help breed future instrumental monsters via the Mustang Outreach Program. More at www.mustangmusicfestival.com. • The 10th Annual Duck Jazz Festival is poised to strike, Oct. 8-9, with a Sat. Community Concert on the Green by Frank Vignola (4-6pm) followed by a 7pm live jam at Blue Point. Come Sun., the tunes flow free all day long on two stages, thanks to Davina and The Vagabonds, Marquis Hill Blacktet, The Rad Trads, The Robert Jospé Express, Second Marine Aircraft Wing Band, and the First Flight High School Jazz Band. Gates open at 10am; show starts at 11am. (But you best be early.) For a full schedule of surrounding events — plus deets on chairs and pets — check out www.duckjazz.com. • On Oct. 9 the state’s best painters take the stage at Manteo’s Dare County Arts Council Gallery when the Bryan Cultural Series presents the Watercolor Society of NC’s 71st Annual Exhibition. From 2-4pm, enjoy an opening reception and meet the artists — or gaze at your own pace through Nov. 18. For more info — including a workshop with award-winning watercolorist and juror Mark Mehaffey — visit www.ncwatercolor.com or www.darearts.org. • Then enjoy some water culture at Oct. 15’s Outer Banks Seafood Festival. From 10:30am-6pm, The Soundside teems with cooking demos and commercial fishing displays, while local restaurants’ top dishes flow — along with tasty beers and live music by Out ’N The Cold, The Crowd, Old Enough to Know Better, Mojo Collins, and Unknown Tongues. $3 gets you in. “Seabucks” get you fed. For more pricing and parking/shuttle details, go to www. outerbanksseafoodfestival.org. • Tear up the green — and raise dough for good causes — when the Kelly Hospitality Group 23rd Annual Charity Golf Tournament takes divots out of Nags Head Golf Links, Oct. 17, to benefit the Outer Banks Community Foundation. More at www.kellysrestaurant.com. • Hit the piers and stand amazed when 2016 N.C. Lions VIP Fishing Tournament gathers 500+ plus blind and visually impaired



OCT 8-9, 2016 Celebrate 10 years of great jazz in Duck with traditional events and a new Concert on the Green taking place on Saturday, October 8 from 4-6 p.m. Friday, October 7 6:00 p.m. Movie on the Green: The Muppet Movie with Children @ Play Saturday, October 8 4:00 p.m. Concert on the Green featuring Frank Vignola Sunday, October 9 10:00 a.m. Festival gates open 11:00 a.m. Live jazz throughout the day in the Duck Town Park

For more details, visit DUCKJAZZ.COM




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Ba nks, NC

Steve Alterman Photography


Dominion North Carolina Power • Duck Community & Business Alliance • Ocean Atlantic Rentals Red Sky Cafe • Sanderling Resort • Super Wings • the Blue Point • WHRO Public Media

Marquis Hill Blacktet helps mark a decade of blue notes at the 10th Annual Duck Jazz Festival, Oct. 8-9. Photo: Deneka Peniston

This project was supported by the N.C. Arts Council, a division of the Department of Cultural Resources, with funding from the National Endowment for the Arts.

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endnotes watch Ryan Clemens — a trained actor and direct descendent of Samuel Clemens — people of all ages to drop a line, Oct. 17-19. To learn how to apply, find ’em on Facebook — even better, volunteer. • Holy flock! Guess who’s 20? The 2016 Wings Over Water make his Mark Twain. More at www.bryanculturalseries.org. • Hoist up those waders and Wildlife Festival. On Oct. 18-23, celebrate two decades of birding, paddling and nature get straight to the Point, Nov. 2-5, for the Cape Hatteras Anglers Club’s Invitational and photography with a host of outdoor tours and workshops. Oct. 22’s reception dinner Individual Tournaments, where 120 teams stand in the swash and share the good times. If features keynote speaker and author of Kingbird Highway, Kenn Kaufmann. Get a full list you ain’t able to compete, lend a hand on the beach. Hook up with all the latest details at of opportunities at www.wingsoverwater.org. • Then it’s the kegs’ turn to fly — or plummet www.capehatterasanglersclub.org. • Enjoy a last blast of the chills, Nov. 4-5, as The Island — when Oct. 22’s 2nd Annual OBX Brewtag returns to The Soundside. From 12-6pm, Farm’s Evening Lantern Tours: Draped in Black breaks down Victorian death rituals via local teams load up handcrafted flying machines costumed interpreters. 7-9:30pm. $10, ages 6+. with shiny beer cylinders and launch them off a More at www.theislandfarm.com. • These colors 20-foot flight deck before a packed beer garden. don’t run — they write — when the Outer Banks Funds support the Frank Rogallo Foundation. Veterans Writing Project returns to UNC (For more info or to register a team, visit www. Coastal Studies Institute, Nov. 5-6. Led by obxbrewtag.com.) Plus, this year the 31st Annual professional scribe and retired Air Force Chief Outer Banks Stunt Kite joins the party with two Master Sergeant, James Matthews, this free mornings of competitions, kid demos and bright two-day workshop teaches up to 25 combat vets colors, Oct. 22-23. Learn more at www.kittyhawk. to express their military experiences through com. • Want an even higher-class affair? Join the literature. To apply, report to www. Dare County Arts Council for Oct. 22’s Emerald veteransweekOBX.com. • On Nov. 6, Ocean Elegance Gala at Pirate’s Cove Pavilion. From Boulevard becomes a culinary battleground as 7pm-12am enjoy exquisite cuisine by Black area chefs fight to win the 7th Annual Outer Pelican Catering and spectacular décor by Banks Shrimp Cook-off. Attendees enjoy Holiday House — plus cocktails, a silent auction endless samples and strategize to take silent and live music by The Finns. Get tix, group tables auctions. But the true victors are sea mammals, as and sponsorship details at www.darearts.org. • the Outer Banks Center for Dolphin Research Score big flavor at bargain rates, Oct. 28–Nov. 5, gets the proceeds. Buy $20 advance tix at Outer when Fall Restaurant Week fixes $20 and $35 Banks Veterinary Hospital. More at www. prices to three-course menus from 20+ local obshrimp.com. • And On Nov. 8, you better peel eateries. Plus, on Oct. 29, Coastal Provisions’ yourself off the couch and stuff that ballot box for Oystoberfest pairs regional bivalves and Voting Day. But before exercising your rights, brewers with live music and eco-education from warm up on issues at www.ncvoterguide.org. • 12pm-3pm. $35 in advance; $40 at the door. Dig Next, be a good citizen — and a good capitalist into www.outerbanksrestaurantweek.com for — by buying local arts, crafts, and sweets at the updates and tix. • On Oct. 29, Elizabethan 8th Annual Manns Harbor Holiday Show, Nov. Gardens’ Harvest HayDay stacks up fall 11-12. Entry is free and proceeds support the traditions for the whole family. From 10am-1pm, Volunteer Fire Dept. Find updates on get lost in a bale maze, stuff a scarecrow, go on a Facebook. • You may never run for office, but hayride — or sip some hot cider by the bonfire you can always race for distance as the Outer with a fat slice of pumpkin pie. Adults: $9. Youth Banks Marathon & Southern Fried Half (6-17): $6. Members/Friends and kids under 5: Marathon returns Nov. 11-13. This 11th annual Free. Visit www.elizabethangardens.org for a full event also features distances from fun runs, to 5Ks More than 100 fishing teams make a lasting impression when the Cape Hatteras Anglers Club’s list of festivities. • Feast your eyes on new and to the Southern 6. Learn more and register at Tournaments fill the Point from sunrise to sundown, Nov. 2-5. Photo: Daniel Pullen restored, first-class watercraft when the Roanoke www.outerbanksmarathon.com. • Or just stand on Island Maritime Museum hosts its 5th Annual the Avon Pier, fish and drink beer when Koru Wooden Boat Show, Oct. 29. $30 registration includes t-shirt and welcome reception; Village hosts the 3rd Annual PBR Classic, Nov. 11-13. This tourney focuses on catching proceeds benefit the youth sailing program. Pick up entry forms at the museum or call 252red drum and bluefish to benefit the local Wounded Warriors chapter. More at www. 475-1750. • Then watch old ships blast each other to imaginary smithereens, Oct. 28-30, koruvillage.com. • When you’re done cleaning fish, dress sharp to save critters by attending when Blackbeard’s Pirate Jamboree fills Ocracoke with historical actors, nautical fiends and Nov. 18’s Wags and Whiskers Gala. This year’s theme — Voice for the Animals: A real facts about 19th century buccaneers — all capped off with a live battle. A treasure of Hollywood Extravaganza — promises to fill Pamlico Jack’s with glitzy pet lovers to details awaits at www. piratejamboree.com. • On Oct. 30, ferry the kiddos to Kelly’s for Oct. support the Coastal Humane Society, Feline Hope, Friends of Felines and the Outer Banks SPCA. Fetch tix and deets at www.obxcoastalhumanesociety.org. • It ain’t 30’s 3rd Annual Parade of Costumes, featuring trick or treat stations, surprise guests, Thanksgiving without oyster stuffing. So go stuff yourself silly, Nov. 26, at Sanctuary celebrity photo ops, live entertainment, and a host of prizes. Registration at 2pm — rain or Vineyards’ annual Curri-Shuck, where there’s always an (almost) endless supply of bivalves, shine event. Free to anyone playing dress-up. More at www.obxentertainment.com. • The crabs and BBQ. Tix at www.sanctuaryvineyards.com. • Just save room, ’cause on Dec. 1, the real Halloween freaks come out at night, Oct. 31, for the Outer Banks Brewing Station’s Beach Food Pantry’s 3rd Annual Holiday Chefs Challenge serves up the best local Annual Exotic Erotic Ball. A little skin. A little scare. And everyone’s just a tad paranormal. dishes for an even better cause. $50 buys appetizers, chefs’ creations and two beverages. More at www.obbrewing.com. • Come Nov. 2, Bryan Cultural Series conjures the ghost of America’s greatest wit with Whiskey and Twain. Be at the Hilton Garden Inn at 7:30pm to Get tix — or get involved — at www.beachfoodpantry.org.

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