F L AV O R L I S T I N G S find entertainment here with the occasional show of drag.
entrées, but I think the burger is one of the best in town.
Hemisphere $$$ Hyatt Regency, Orlando International Airport, Orlando, 407-825-1234 This steak and seafood restaurant is literally above the hustle and bustle of one of the busiest airports in the country. Its location on the 10th floor of the upscale Hyatt hotel inside the terminal provides a sweeping view of planes landing and taking off. Here’s something most people don’t know: you can drive up to the Hyatt entrance, have your car valet parked (it’s complimentary for restaurant patrons), then hop on the elevator to whisk you to the restaurant. Yes, it’s the airport. But I recommend this restaurant to locals, just the same.
K Restaurant $$$ 1710 Edgewater Drive, Orlando 407-872-2332 Kevin Fonzo, who turned this College Park eatery into a nationally known destination restaurant, recently combined K and his second restaurant, Nonna Trattoria, into one. The towering presentation of three fried green tomatoes layered with crab and corn salad is wonderful. The filet mignon is still a good choice, but so many other things on the ever-changing menu are too. You can scarcely go wrong.
Houston’s $$ 215 S. Orlando Ave., Winter Park, 407-740-4005 Houston’s is one of the better examples of how a chain restaurant should operate. It does what it does well, and the food is consistent. But one of the draws of this particular location is its lakefront view – every table has a perfect vantage point. One negative: the chain’s no-reservations policy – waits can be long, especially on weekends. HUE Restaurant $$$ 629 E. Central Blvd., Orlando, 407-849-1800 A centerpiece of Orlando’s vibrant Thornton Park neighborhood, Hue has been an important part of downtown Orlando for more than seven years. Although the name is pronounced hyoo and not the Asian hway, the menu adds confusion with its Asian touches. The fried oysters served in ladle-shaped spoons are a good starter. There are more elaborate
La Coquina $$$$ Hyatt Regency Grand Cypress, 1 Grand Cypress Blvd., Orlando, 407-239-1234 La Coquina has been relegated to use only during Sunday brunch. But oh what a brunch it is, with a wall full of awards and accolades to attest to it. The various food stations are set up in the kitchen, where guests enter to load up on salads, soups, cold seafood, salumi, cheeses and such. When you’re ready for your entrée, step up to the chef’s station and place your order from among the day’s options. The chef then prepares it for you on the spot. No steam tables here.
THE KEY
$ Cheap eats, most entrées under $10 $$ Moderate, dinner entrées $15-20 $$$ Pricey, most entrées over $30 $$$$ Many entrées over $30 Full review at scottjosephorlando.com
Logan’s Bistro $$-$$$ 802 Virginia Drive, Orlando, 407-898-5688 A neighborhood favorite that goes beyond corner bistro fare and presents wonderful dishes presented as stylishly as you’d find in a top-drawer restaurant. The pot roast is a favorite. LUMA on Park $$$ 290 Park Ave. S., Winter Park, 407-599-4111 Under the direction of Chef Brandon McGlamery, this stylishly chic restaurant on trendy Park Avenue has become a real jewel in Central Florida’s culinary corona. The dining room can be a bit noisy. The decor is still modish, even after four years. And the automated restrooms with their sliding glass doors and confusing washbasins still annoy me. A fun thing to do here is make a feast of small plates, but if you want to have a full entrée try the flank steak or the black grouper. Norman’s $$$$ Ritz-Carlton, 4000 Central Florida Parkway, Orlando, 407-393-4333 Owner Norman Van Aken is one of the founders of Floribbean or New World Cuisine and arguably one of Florida’s most celebrated chefs. Van Aken and the Ritz-Carlton have teamed up to present the sort of fine-dining experience seldom seen in Orlando. The menu changes regularly, but if it’s your first visit, ask your waiter for some of Van Aken’s signature dishes. A dinner at Norman’s is pricey — it’s the Ritz for crying out loud! — but it’s worth an occasional splurge. Park Plaza Gardens $$$ 319 Park Ave. S., Winter Park, 407-645-2475 Once upon a time, Park Plaza Gardens was one of
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