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one magazine i s s u e NO . 9 . 5 nyc

winter 2014

the graphic issue


b o s t o n n e w

y o r k

c i t y

s a r a s o t a

Established june 2010



Tiago Chediak, Tino C r i s ó , P a u l i n e D a r l e y, Kate Edwards, Krzysztof Frankiewicz, Christine K r e i s e l m a i e r, G u n n a r L i l l e h a m m e r, A n n a Mårtensson, Oversoe, S h i r l e y Yu , L i n a Z a n g e r s a rt i c l e s / f e at u r e s

Danielle Peterson, Pola T h o m s o n , K i r s t y Wa r d team

assisant submission reviewer shanon soule All designs, creative and art direction were completed and produced by Nicole Gavrilles © ONE Magazine Nicole Gavrilles 2014 ONEMAG.US

c o n ta c t u s

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Abstract Minimalism Photos by Shirley Yu

Blue Hue

Pure Elegance

Photos by Christine Kreiselmaier

Photos by Krzysztof Frankiewicz 28



Axe Majeure

The Other Half

Photos by Pauline Darley

Photos by Anna Mรฅrtensson



Winter Essentials

Out Wide Open

Photos by Lina Zangers

Photos by Tino Crisรณ

Pale Purple 38

Photos by Oversoe



Hold Your Breath Photos by Tiago Chediak

Hello, Stranger

Hide and Seek

Photos by Gunnar Lillehammer

Photos by Kate Edwards

hello, stranger for one magazine

hello, stranger for one magazine

Issue No.9.5

hide and seek for one magazine

hide and seek for one magazine

Issue No.9.5



Interview — Kirsty Ward Photos Courtesy of Kirsty Ward Interview by Nicole Gavrilles



SS 15 — Pola Thomson

Oscar De La Renta

Photos Courtesy of Pola Thomson Written by Nicole Gavrilles

Written by Danielle Peterson

My mission in life is not merely to survive, but to thrive; and to do so with some passion, some compassion, some humor, and some style. 9.5

l e t t e r f r o m

e d i t o r

“Be the designer of your own destiny.� As spoken by Oscar de la Renta, an amazing and inspirational fashion designer who lost his battle to cancer this year. He always cared about the simple features of a women's beauty by accentuating her figure and making her natural features glow. I admire a lot of what Oscar de la Renta stood for. The style I have set for this magazine has always been about natural beauty, elegance and simplicity. It's where our readers can either relate to or draw inspiration from our editorials. We will strive to keep that style set throughout all issues to come. For Oscar's quote you read a second ago -- I always believed that if I put my mind and heart into something, that I could make it a reality. I feel that way with this magazine. But the truth is, none of this would look as awesome as it does without the amazing photographers and their teams featured in this issue. The inspiration for the graphic issue came directly from the fall/winter 2014 collections. It's very exciting to me to see how designers push their innovative and creative minds every collection they release. It makes me want to push myself and see how I can take the theme to the next level for each issue. I'm loving the detailed prints, graphic basics, sportswear, optical monochrome seen on the runway by Dries Van Noten to Balmain, and Prada giving the sweet 60s a comeback. And don't get me started with all the iterations of knits! Absolutely Beautiful. Anyways, I had fun with this issue and I hope you enjoy!

founder, editor at large, designer

Nicole Gavrilles


e d i t o r i a l s d e s i g n e r s a r t i c l e s

no. 9.5

a b s t r a c t m i n i — m a l i s m Photography Shirley Yu, Model Hilary at Wilhelmina, Hair Bennett Grey, Makeup Debie Kim, Styling Lotte Sindahl, Production Assistant Sreya Sinha


pants & blazer suzanne rae, turtleneck piecesÂ

top kay frank, pants suzanne rae

top & shirt kay frank, shoes cos


dress kay frank, shoes reebok


top vintage (stylist's own), skirt faanÂ

no. 9.5

p u r e Photography Aleksandra Rozniata & Krzysztof Frankiewicz, Model Noel Berry at Models1, Hair Tommy Taylor, Makeup Aleksandra Rozniata, Styling Aleksandra Kulinska

e l e g a n c e


leather jacket nicole farhi, white shirt cos, leather skirt all saints

leather jacket nicole farhi, white shirt cos


jumper nicole farhi, berit heavy melton skitrt carin wester

blue long sleeve top roland mouret, berit heavy melton skirt carin wester

toppleats peter pilotto, black sleeveless chevron pleat maxi dress please issey miyake, earrings & otherleggings stories y3


blue long sleeve top roland mouret


light blue shirt & navy top cos, blue jumper setlla mccartney, velour trousers topshop boutique, shoes & other stories

leather jacket nicole farhi

black sleeveless chevron pleat maxi dress pleats please issey miyake

no. 9.5

pale Photography, Styling & Art Direction Oversoe — Dorian Kautz & Hanna Bruchmueller, Model Julia Feld at Core, Hair & Makeup Boris Rieker at Blossom Management using Paul Mitchell

purple one

overall tibi

trenchcoat barbara lohmann

overall tibi


coat barbara lohmann


coat tibi

blouse ikks, trousers edith & ella

coat ikks, dress bittenstetter


shirt & skirt edith & ella


knitwear paul & joe sister, trousers edith & ella

coat mm6, blouse band of outsiders

no. 9.5

hello, stranger Photography Gunnar Lillehammer, Model Albe Hamiti, Styling Stefanie Schwaiger


coat cos, blouse band of outsiders

coat marlene birger (vintage), polo band of outsiders, shoes jil sander, socks hugo boss


coat cos


coat chanel (vintage), body princesse tam tam

jacket & skirt raoul, body princesse tam tam, shoes comptoir des cotonniers

entire look cos



coat marlene birger (vintage), polo band of outsiders, shoes jil sander, socks hugo boss

no. 9.5

h i d e a   n   d s e e k Photography Kate Edwards, Model Lauren Perlman, Makeup Anne Kohlhagen, Styling Ali Breslin


top (over) & bracelet in god we trust nyc, top (under) rachel comey, pants layla racy

top & rings in god we trust nyc, undershirt rachel comey, skirt layla racy, hat stylist's own

top rachel comey


jacket rachel comey, top layla racy, pants collina strada, shoes adidas


jacket & pants rachel comey, bra collina strada

jacket rachel comey, pants collina strada


top rachel comey, pants collina strada, bracelet in god we trust nyc

no. 9.5

b l u e h u e Photography Christine Kreiselmaier, Model Georgie Hobday at Profile Management London, Hair Niki Black, Makeup Sarah Jagger, Styling Phoebe Haines, Retouching James Colk, Assistant Emma Gibney


top american apparel, trousers acne studios

jacket saint laurent, t-shirt t by alexander wang, skirt givenchy

coat & shirt maison martin margiela, jacket saint laurent, turtleneck american apparel


jacket saint laurent, t-shirt t by alexander wang


top american apparel, jumper around waist chloĂŠ & acne studios, trousers maison martin margiela

coat & trousers marni, jumper chloĂŠ, boots miu miu


sweater acne studios, panties dolce & gabbana, ring stylist's own

coat & trousers maison martin margiela, shirt acne studios, skirt & shoes givenchy, socks topshop

jumper acne, jeans acne, gloves balenciaga, boots maison martin margiela


coat & top icb, vest vereda nyc, trousers odd

no. 9.5

hold your breath Photography Tiago Chediak, Model Rachel Thomas at The Society, Hair Yuhi Kim, Makeup Kento Utsubo, Styling Masaaki Hashimoto, Retouching Octavio Duarte, Photography Assistant Amanda Motta


jacket & dress icb, fur vereda nyc


jacket & shirt icb, skirt & trousers odd


dress icb, shoes ld tuttle

coat & dress icb, skirt stylist's own, shoes ld tuttle

coat icb, dress odd


no. 9.5

the other Photography Anna MĂĽrtensson, Model Adeline at Established, Makeup & Hair Salina Thind using Paul Mitchell & MAC Cosmetics, Styling Charlotte Alexander

half one

top cos, rings maria black

jacket & trousers theory, top cos, rings laura lee

top veronica beard, trousers moschino cheap & chic


jumper mih jeans, skirt topshop boutique


t-shirt rag & bone, jeans iris & ink, bracelets marc by marc jacobs

jumper acne, shirt giambattista valli, skirt topshop, rings maria black

jumper & skirt iris & ink, rings katie rowland


top tibi, trousers stella mccartney, rings laura lee


coat derek lam

no. 9.5

out wide open Photography Tino CrisĂł, Model Jaqueline Haun at M4 Models, Hair & Makeup Linda Sigg at Nina Klein, Styling SĂŠraphine de Lima at Bigoudi, Photography Assistant Piotr Winiarczyk


jacket, pants & shoes jil sander

coat helmut lang

jacket jil sander


coat avelon


blazer isabel marant & avelon, top shimmi, pants avelon, shoes jil sander

blazer isabel marant, shirt american apparel (self designed), pants avelon, shoes jil sander

coat stefan eckert


no. 9.5

axe majeure

Photography Pauline Darley at LeCrime, Model Flora Mathieu at Silent, Hair Laurie-Anne Zanoletti, Makeup Camille Siguret, Styling Sarah Delannoy


jacket renĂŠ, turtleneck victoria/tomas

jacket renĂŠ, turtleneck victoria/tomas, trousers johanna ho, shoes aldo

coat iro, jacket renĂŠ, turtleneck victoria/tomas


coat from britten, dress gauchère, turtleneck victoria/tomas, high-knee boots aldo



vest & pants iro, turtleneck victoria/tomas

coat christina economou, vest & pants iro, turtleneck victoria/tomas


coat surface to air, pull christina economou, dress sea ny, high-knee boots aldo


candle & handcream bjรถrk & berries in dark rum, perfume eight & bob, soap byredo in pulp, rings ina beissner, glove & other stories

no. 9.5


Photography & Concept Lina Zangers

essentials candle eight & bob


eyecream kiehls, perfume roads in supernova, glasses ace & tate

perfume dolce & gabbana in le bateleur


eyecream kiehls, serum själ, nailpolish & other stories

purse & other stories


glasses ace & tate, candle & nailpolish & other stories, parfum agonist in vanilla marble

lotion byredo in pulp


k i r s t y w a r d    •    i n t e r v i e w    •    n o . 9 . 5

Kirsty ward Interview Nicole Gavrilles Images Courtesy of Kirsty Ward

I came across the work of Kirsty Ward randomly browsing the internet. Sometimes when you're scrolling through Tumblr or Pinterest, you never take a second to stop and look at something because it might be something you've seen before. Not with Kirsty's work. I came across one of her jewelry pieces and my mouse immediately stopped scrolling. I was drawn into these beautifully structured necklaces, nothing like I've seen before. Originally from Oxfordshire, UK, Kirsty began completing her BA in Womenswear in Manchester before she went to undertake the prestigious Central Saint Martins for her MA in Womenswear. She mentions that her time at Central Saint Martins was where she began to develop her penchant for unconventional structures and an emphasis on form. After graduating with her Masters in Womenswear, she was immediately


aw 2014

aw 2014

k i r s t y w a r d    •    i n t e r v i e w    •    n o . 9 . 5


k i r s t y w a r d   •   i n t e r v i e w   •    n o . 9 . 5

hired by Alberta Ferretti to design for her in Italy. After a year and a half honing her craft with Ferretti, became her own business owner and launched her own label in 2010. Since Kirsty Ward launched her own label, her collections have received high praise and recognition from the most respected leaders in the fashion industry. named her a 'Rising Star of 2011' and Vogue. com announced her as one of their 'Designer's to Watch in 2011'. Kirsty was also selected as one of Selfridges' Bright Young Things of 2011 where she showcased her debut collection along with limited edition pieces in the store's window to be sold in store and online. Out of all the awards and recognitions Kirsty has been known for, I cannot wait to see her take the US with a storm. Take a look for yourself at these beautifully crafted jewelry and eye-catching womenswear collections that work so well together.

Can you tell us a little about your background? I'm originally from Oxfordshire now I'm based in London. I studied in Manchester for my BA then central st martins for my MA. Before starting my own label I designed womenswear for Alberta Ferretti in Italy. Where do you get your jewelry design inspiration come from? It's quite a natural process, where I stop one season I move it forward and put a spin on it the next season, so it's a naturally evolving process. I'm mostly inspired by shape and colour and seeing how far I can push the wire bending process. Do your pieces have a theme or underlying idea? Not really a theme but every season there's usually a play on contradiction: feminine meets masculine or soft vs hard or contradictive textures. There's also some layering play with sheers too.


k i r s t y w a r d    •    i n t e r v i e w    •    n o . 9 . 5

AW 2 0 1 4

photography alexander jordan, model gaby loader at next, hair valerie benavides, makeup hannah phillips, styling sarah barlow


k i r s t y w a r d   •   i n t e r v i e w   •    n o . 9 . 5

AW 2 0 1 4


k i r s t y w a r d    •    i n t e r v i e w    •    n o . 9 . 5

“I like to make pieces that the wearer will love, with thought going into every last detail.” — kirsty ward

What was your inspiration for your newest collection? I was inspired by mild distortion in the garments and non traditional draping techniques and also merging pieces together. What were your biggest challenges designing this collection? We had our photoshoot quite early on so the biggest challenge was getting all the pieces ready on time. Do you design from a studio or your home? We have a merged studio and home that I share with my husband David Longshaw who is also a womenswear designer. It's an old violin shop in north London. What has been your biggest accomplishments in your career thus far? Most of all I'm pleased that I can make a career and living from what I love doing, and picking up some great stockists along the way. But it was great being selected by Italian Vogue for their talents corner during Milan fashion week.


ss 2015

k i r s t y w a r d   •   i n t e r v i e w   •    n o . 9 . 5

ss 2015


k i r s t y w a r d    •    i n t e r v i e w    •    n o . 9 . 5

ss 2015


k i r s t y w a r d   •   i n t e r v i e w   •    n o . 9 . 5

ss 2015


photography alexander jordan, model isis samassa at next, hair valerie benavides, makeup alexis day, styling sarah barlow

k i r s t y w a r d   •   i n t e r v i e w   •    n o . 9 . 5

“I also love to mix jewelery with clothing — blurring the line where one stops and the other starts.” — kirsty ward

Have you had any celebrities wearing your pieces? There's been a few (Iggy Azalea, Sophie Turner, Emmy the Great, Sienna Guillory) but I'm more interested in seeing my pieces on real people in the street that have chosen to buy and wear themselves. Is there a specific celebrity you'd love to see wearing your designs? I would love to see Diana Kruger wearing a piece of my work and also she's not really a celebrity but a fashion influencer - I would love to see Anna Wintor wearing something I have designed. Beyond your business, what are your hobbies or passions? I love going to the theatre and I'm a big fan of going for midnight walks around London - it's great to see when not many people are about. I love architecture, art, music, film... As an artist are there mediums beyond jewelry you enjoy? Womenswear and jewelery are the channels for me although I love checking out all other creative mediums. Although I prefer to see the exhibition than experiment myself as what I already do is so time consuming and I cannot draw at all! What do you hope the future holds for you? I want to keep building and growing my business each day at a time.


industria jacket

dinamyc skirt

pri choker

s s 1 5 p o l a t h o m s o n   •   r e v i e w   •    n o . 9 . 5

SS15 — Pola thomson Interview Nicole Gavrilles Images Courtesy of Pola Thomson

If you read our featured interview in our previous issue, we interviewed Chilean born NY based designer, Pola Thomson. Revisiting Pola this fall, we got a chance to view her newest SS15 Collection. “The collection is a reflection over our times and the dynamic of living them. I explored concepts as speed, technology and life in the big cities. Pieces are conceived as an object in movement that multiplies and distorts as a vibration through the space.” Comments Thomson. Each piece has been carefully crafted to reflect a newfound elegance. The silhouette exhales sensual tailoring and unexpected


s s 1 5 p o l a t h o m s o n    •    r e v i e w    •    n o . 9 . 5





techno-sportswear – utilitarian shade synthesizing the core elements of contemporary fashion. The signature palette of Pola Thomson is rendered with a new intensity this season. An extraordinary yellow and a indigo blue denim create an eloquent interaction with classic black and white. For Spring-Summer 2015, traditional materials like silk faille, cotton canvas, knits and two types of Chilean denim, reveal through innovative techniques and intricate design, details as frayed seams, metallic zippers and boutonniere; establishing a new constructions richness on each piece. Once I saw this collection in person, I fell in love. I felt that Pola used simple fabric techniques to bring her collection to a whole new level of simplicity and minimalism. From the frayed seams (my favorite) to the open back dress and high curved neck-line is truly timeless and absolutely beautiful. Even the zipper details add a chic edgy look while keeping the clothes true to her style and very elegant. The girl who wears Pola Thomson is the a type of girl who sees beauty in it's simplest form. One who's confident, poise and naturally stands out of the crowd without forcing it. Get ready to stock up for the spring because you definitely have to get a piece from Pola's SS15 collection to rock in the warm weather.


s s 1 5 p o l a t h o m s o n   •   r e v i e w   •    n o . 9 . 5

fast top





“The collection is a reflection over our times and the dynamic of living them. I explored concepts as speed, technology and life in the big cities. Pieces are conceived as an object in movement that multiplies and distorts as a vibration through the space.” — pola thomson


s s 1 5 p o l a t h o m s o n    •    r e v i e w    •    n o . 9 . 5

ss 2015








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ss 2015


ss 2015

s s 1 5 p o l a t h o m s o n    •    r e v i e w    •    n o . 9 . 5




pri choker

ss 2015


prisa dress

view entire collection


fast top

runner shorts

daydream clutch

photography claudio robles & tomas meersohn, model gabriela at elite, hair & makeup tere irarrazabal, set design ornamenta studio, acknowledgments estudio schkolnick

s s 1 5 p o l a t h o m s o n    •    r e v i e w    •    n o . 9 . 5

ss 2015








s s 1 5 p o l a t h o m s o n   •   r e v i e w   •    n o . 9 . 5





ss 2015


o s c a r d e l a r e n t a    •    a r t i c l e    •    n o . 9 . 5

photo fabio ionà —


o s c a r d e l a r e n t a   •   a r t i c l e   •    n o . 9 . 5

A Legacy of Elegance

Remembering Oscar de la Renta Words Danielle Peterson Images Courtesy of and

In a time when fashion is evolving and changing with technology, it is a challenge to be able to keep up with the fast-paced industry and a testament to your craft to create sought after clothes season after season. Oscar de la Renta not only designed beautiful clothing for more than 50 years, but also grew his business in times of economic struggles and kept his position as the king craftsman for eveningwear when stars wanted to stand out. After an eight-year struggle with cancer, de la Renta passed away on Oct. 20, 2014 at the age of 82. However, his legacy of glamour and sophistication will influence designers for decades to come.


o s c a r d e l a r e n t a    •    a r t i c l e    •    n o . 9 . 5

Born in Santo Domingo, Dominican Republic on July 22, 1932, de la Renta left home at 18 to study painting in Spain. Not long after his arrival though, he became taken with the fashion world and soon began apprenticing for Cristobal Balenciaga. In 1961, he started working for Lanvin in Paris, and two years later, he moved to New York to work for Elizabeth Arden. In 1965, he started his own eponymous label. Married twice to elegant ladies, de la Renta knew how to dress women and how to make them look and feel beautiful. Over the years he dressed multiple first ladies and numerous movie stars including Sarah Jessica Parker, Amy Adams, Nicole Kidman, Cameron Diaz and Jessica Chastain. Most recently, he designed George Clooney’s wife, Amal Alamuddin’s, wedding dress when the couple married in Venice, Italy in September. The dress, a lacey, off-the-shoulder classic, epitomized de la Renta’s elegant style and showcased the designer’s ability to create looks that were refined yet glamorous. When so many other designers fell short, de la Renta always succeeded at creating looks reflective of changing times. He expanded his brand to include furniture and fragrances, and he added a less expensive line to increase the obtainability and accessibility of his pieces. Over the course of his career, de la Renta won a multitude of awards including a CFDA Lifetime Achievement Award and two American Fashion Critic’s Awards. In 1973, he was inducted into the International Best Dressed List Hall of Fame.


fall 2013

o s c a r d e l a r e n t a   •   a r t i c l e   •    n o . 9 . 5

spring 2014


o s c a r d e l a r e n t a    •    a r t i c l e    •    n o . 9 . 5

spring 2015


o s c a r d e l a r e n t a   •   a r t i c l e   •    n o . 9 . 5

"A runway is spectacle. It’s only fashion when a woman puts it on. Being well dressed hasn't much to do with having good clothes. It’s a question of good balance and good common sense." — oscar de la renta

Oscar de la Renta’s awards and portfolio of red carpet looks demonstrate his appeal and talent. The large outcry following his passing painted the picture of a charming, sophisticated, and passionate man who loved his career. There are no doubts that fashion will be a little less bright without de la Renta’s designs and glowing smile gracing the runway every season. However, his memory and legacy will continue on for years to come. After all, de la Renta once said, “The great thing about fashion is that is always looks forward.”


f a s h i o n p i c k s    •    n o . 9 . 5

fashion picks

lanvin $765 delfina delettrez $437

kenzo $557

marc jacobs $2900

Charlotte Olympia $1352

tibi $950

Illesteva $394

Stella McCartney

isabel marant



all items can be found at matches fashion


f a s h i o n p i c k s    •    n o . 9 . 5

saint laurent $523

Mary Katrantzou $1506

Altuzarra $5122 helmut lang $137

Prabal Gurung




Emilia Wickstead $773

balenciaga $995

Burberry Prorsum $1537

check out the latest must-haves of the season


f a s h i o n p i c k s    •    n o . 9 . 5

p unc h o f po p

1 7


2 8 5




1 house of holland $456, 2 band of outsiders $456, 3 balenciaga $1465, 4 issa $3082, 5 balenciaga $1465, 6 illesteva $191, 7 prabal gurung $1049, 8 gianvito rossi $649, 9 kenzo $989


f a s h i o n p i c k s    •    n o . 9 . 5

snowed i n





8 5




1 rika $91, 2 christophe lemaire $625, 3 this is paper $50, 4 acne studios $690, 5 alexander wang $795, 6 inverni $216, 7 ann demeulemeester $2785, 8 maison martin margiela $925, 9 rochas $1619




t h a n k s f o r

y o u r

c o n t r i b u t i o n


All images used in articles and features are credited along with each page they are featured on. All photographers featured own full rights to their images

Fashion Picks sections, Oscar de la Renta Article and Photo of Oscar - Fabio Ionà — Kirsty Ward Article Courtesy of Kirsty Ward and Alexander Jordan Pola Thomson Article Courtesy of Pola Thomson, Photography by Claudio Robles & Tomas Meersohn Back Cover Superfamous Studios

o n e m a g . u s

ONE Issue No.9.5  
ONE Issue No.9.5  

The Graphic Issue II — December 2014