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one magazine i s s u e NO . 7 nyc

Winter 2014

t h e v o y a g e i s s u e


07

Established june 2010

b o s t o n n e w

y o r k

c i t y

s a r a s o t a


contributors

EDITORIALS Sevda Albers, Errikos Andreou, Sebastian Henkel, Anne Højlund Nicolajsen, Nadine Ottawa, IJfke Ridgley, Ivan Trip, Paola Vivas, Felix Wong

arti c les / f eat u res Diaboli Kill, Danielle Peterson, Lady Sybilia

TEAM Assistant Submission Reviewer Shannon Soule

All designs, creative and art direction were completed and produced by Nicole Gavrilles © ONE Magazine Nicole Gavrilles 2013 ONEMAG.US


c o n ta c t u s

shop Visit our page at Magcloud.com to view previous issues and purchase a print & digital issue

s u b missio n s Send all submissions to info.onemag@gmail.com

v isit For more information, visit www.onemag.us

information

information

If you have any questions or comments, email us at info.onemag@gmail.com


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Soft Reflections

Forest Femme

Photos by Nadine Ottawa

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Photos by Ivan Trip

Shoreline Photos by Sevda Albers

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FW 13 Photos by Felix Wong

10

76

Come as You Are

Urban Legend

Photos by Errikos Andreou

Photos by IJfke Ridgley

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84

Dream

Pink Kitty

Photos by Sebastian Henkel

Photos by Paola Vivas

EDITORIALS


t h e

v o y a g e

i s s u e

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Interview− Diaboli Kill Interview by Nicole Gavrilles

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From Sidewalk to Catwalk Written by Lady Sybilia

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Life of a Model Photos by Anne Højlund Nicolajsen Interview by Mette Mikkelsen

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The New Classics Written by Danielle Peterson

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Fashion Picks Winter 2013 / 2014

FEATURES


Do it again. Play it again. Sing it again. Read it again. Write it again. Sketch it again. Rehearse it again. Run it again. Try it again. 07

l e t t e r f r o m

e d i t o r


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gain. Usually the one word I repeat to myself when it's time to think about the next issue. Why do I contiue working on this? Why do I put myself under so much pressure each year to put out these issues? Because it's what I love to do. Other than loving design and fashion photography, I love making things that will make others happy. So it never matters how long it takes to put out an issue or how tired I get. As long as the end result is something I'm satisfied with. Not many of you know that I do this all on my own. It's been three years since I started ONE and it means the world to me that my readers have followed me through this crazy idea I once had. Thank you, for always believing. Again comes into context with not just the process from start to finish, but also the bumpy roads you face in-between. Nothing's perfect but I never want to release an issue until I feel it's ready. I tried again and again on this one (I've been working on issue 7 since June) and now I believe it's ready. Enjoy. founder, editor at large, designer

Nicole Gavrilles


07

e d i t o r i a l s d e s i g n e r s a r t i c l e s


no. 7

come as Photography Errikos Andreou, Makeup Marita Thoma-Politou, Hair Christos Bairabas, Styling Markos Andriotis, Photography Assistant Giota Kallini

you are one


boy left − cartigan topman, suit dimitris petrou, boy right − blazer dimitris petrou leather dress dimitris petrou, blazer balenciaga, jeans acne


sweatshirt balenciaga, shirt (worn around waist) zadig et voltaire, sequin skirt deux hommes boy − trousers dimitris petrou, shoes converse

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custom made body stylists own, peplum skirt melis by laskos, hat h&m


denim overalls levis, cuffs pins & headpiece melis by laskos


coat balenciaga, skirt mango

15

boy − suit dimitris petrou


blazer dimitris petrou

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top custom made stylists own, pin up knickers melis by laskos, jeans margiela for h&m


glittery top custom made stylists own, shirt h&m, transparent skirt melis by laskos, shoes custom made stylists own


knitted top iro, headpiece custom made stylists own boy left − blazer helmut lang, shirt & trousers topman, boy right − shirt h&m

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sequined top melis by laskos, skirt burberry, laundry bag thrift shop

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furcoat moschino cheap & chic, embroided black body akris at gassmann


no. 7

soft refections

Photography Nadine Ottawa, Model Manuela Frey, Makeup & Hair Lena Fleischer, Styling Kim Dung Nguyen

one


fur waistcoat roberto cavalli, panty jean paul gaultier

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fur stole shiatzy chen, skirt burrberry prorsum at gassmann

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fur jacket wyssbrod, lace body bibi bachtadze at gassmann


fur waistcoat wyssbrod, panty agent provocateur


fur blanket wyssbrod

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fur jacket wyssbrod

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fur jacket wyssbrod, body agent provocateur


dress tommy hilfiger, coat chacharel


no. 7

shoreline Photography Sevda Albers, Model Sarah Dick at Premier, Makeup Daniela Koller using Clinique, Hair Kevin Murphy, Styling Marina German

one


dress chacharel, coat escada, boots dr. martens


shirt levis, coat & jacket loewe, hat beyond retro, boots dr. martens


pullover loewe, leather shorts danielle romeril, boots dr. martens


jacket pepe jeans, jacket burberry, leather skirt loewe, shoes vans


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shirt loewe, coat pavane, trousers escada


shirt burberry, pullover cacharel, leather shorts danielle romeril


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42


shirt levis, leather top danielle romeril, leather skirt loewe, shoes dr. martens


skirt & top kiesel


no. 7

dre– am

Photography Sebastian Henkel, Model Joannna at Izaio, Makeup & Hair Linda Sigg at Nina Klein, Styling Oriana Tundo at Style Council

one


dress bossert/schorn, coat isabell de hillerin, shoes vladimir karaleev


top isabell de hillerin, blazer kiesel, pants realty studio


dress michael sontag


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blouse reality studio, pants issever bahri, shoes kostas murkudis


dress michael sontag


dress maxime martens, top julian stips, tights h&m coat hien le, dress markus lupfer

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f w 13

Photography Felix Wong at Seen Artists, Model Kristen Murphy at Anita Norris, Hair & Makeup Simone Otis at P1M, Styling Alexis Honce at Plutino Group

one


top alexander wang (worn backwards), pants & sash lucian matis, gloves ettiquette latex, boots brown shoes, earring melanie auld, ring miz dragonfly


silk top fendi, pants balenciaga, leather bustier northbound leather, shoes walter steiger, gloves ettiquette latex, earrings & ring melanie auld

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top lucian matis, skirt balenciaga, boots brown shoes, earrings & ring melanie auld


vest etro, dress fendi, gloves ettiquette latex


top balenciaga, jacket andrew majtenyi, skirt jeremy laing

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top alexander wang, gloves ettiquette latex, ring miz dragonfly, earring melanie auld

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no. 7

Forest Femme Photography Ivan Trip, Model Victoria P at MIKAs Stockholm, Makeup Pari Damani at Agent Bauer, Hair Carina Finnstrรถm at MIKAs LOOKs, Styling Bahareh Ardakani, Photography Assistants Karolin Knutsson & Erik Sรถrgren, Stylist Assistant Martin Petersson

one


coat whyred, fur vest paul & joe at nk internationella designers – stockholm, pants mes dames, belt tiger of sweden, shoes lobra


fur coat whyred, shades christian dior

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top paul & joe at nk internationella designers – stockholm, skirt mes dames, cardigan dagmar, earrings & bracelet decilie melli


fur coat marc by marc jacobs at nk internationella designers – stockholm, dress alice + olivia at nk internationella designers – stockholm, belt syster p, gloves tiger of sweden, knee highs wolford, shoes lobra


fur coat whyred, shades dior

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dress william wahlstrรถm, fur hat whyred dress sadie williams


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fur coat tiger of sweden, blouse & tights see by chloé at nk internationella designers – stockholm, shirt & shoes whyred, shades jimmy choo


coat paul & joe at nk internationella designers – stockholm, top mes dames, blouse alice + olivia at nk internationella designers – stockholm (worn underneath), skirt acne


dress dagmar, top ida klamborn, scarf tiger of sweden

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dress dagmar, top ida klamborn, scarf & boots tiger of sweden


no. 7

u r b a n l e g e n d

Photography IJfke Ridgley, Model Michelle Bailie at Wilhelmina, Makeup Zairrah, Styling Geremy Campos, Photography Asistant Tara Donohoe

one


dress alexander wang, blouse (worn underneath) american apparel, clutch diane von furstenburg, headbands vingt et unÂ


sweater 3.1 phillip lim, blouse (worn underneath) 3.1 phillip lim, shorts qsw, bag rebecca minkoff  


jacket isabel marant, bralette american apparel, leather trousers vince

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blazer diane von furstenburg, top american apparel, shirt (worn underneath) qsw, skirt diane von furstenburg, bag reed krakoff, necklace joomi limÂ

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blouse marni

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no. 7

pink Photography Paola Vivas, Model Kitty at Supa Models, Makeup Hyebin Lee, Hair Tracy Grabbs, Styling Maria Rangel, Photography Assistants Anna Sandman and Katie Morgason

kitty

one


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coat reiss, boots zara

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top reiss, stoles vintage, trousers cos, shoes nike trainers

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top zara, skirt label lab, fur topshop, boots zara

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90


91


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yellow jumper asos, skirt topshop, boots zara

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augusta

augusta

dress designers remix


no. 7

Life of a model

Photography Anne Højlund Nicolajsen, Models Augusta at The Lions – Meng at Fusion Tatiana at Fusion – Bruna at Muse NYC – Andrea at Muse NYC – Jaunel at Fusion Cristina at Fusion, Makeup IM A N E Fiocchi, Hair Melisande Page & Yasutaké Kosaka, Styling & Interview Mette Mikkelsen, Photography Assistant Mathias Broe

one


meng

meng

top vibe johansson, skirt baum und pferdgarten

96


Tatiana

Tatiana

fur coat meteo by yves salomon, blouse gestuz, leather pants helmut lang, booties christian louboutin

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Bruna

Bruna

dress wolford, bracelet vintage

98


Andrea

Andrea

collar wolford, clouse dolce & gabbana, necklace pamela love

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Jaunel

Jaunel

leather blouse baum und pferdgarten, pants malene birger, ring emquies & holstein

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Cristina

Cristina

body wolford, earrings love adorned, ring jane koenig

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augusta age 18, Bornholm, Denmark

What is unique about your hometown? Bornholm is a small island east of the coast of Denmark. Due to it's small size of 227 sq mi the island's local community is like one big family. People are very friendly and outgoing. The main industry is fishing, arts and crafts and tourism in the summertime. What is a must-see in Bornholm? There is so much to see! Besides the stunning nature there is the characteristic Bornholmer houses and charming round churches, the old castle Hammershus, and the Echo Valley. You can also take a horse carriage tour through the Almindingen forest, or bike around the island. When is the best time to visit Bornholm? Definitely in the summertime - it's absolutely beautiful from June to late August. Bornholm is actually nicknamed the "sunshine Island" because it has so many more hours of sun than the rest of the country.

What do you miss the most about your hometown when traveling? My dear ones of course. I'm blessed with a great family and friends, and a loving boyfriend that I miss a lot. When I'm in a big city like NY I also tend to miss the incredible ocean view from my family's house in Bornholm. What local food specialties can you recommend trying in Bornholm? Bornholm is known for its fresh delicious fish, especially herring. Try the dish Sun over Gudhjem or the local fish cake in the village Aarsdale - you won't be disappointed!

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meng age 19, Chengdu, China

What is unique about your hometown? One thing Chengdu is especially known for is the Panda base. It's a non-profit research and breeding facility where tourists can learn about the pandas and actually hold baby pandas.

What do you miss the most about your hometown when traveling? Chengdu is a very clean city compared to some of the places I've traveled, so I miss that, and also the subtropical climate and great food!

What is a must-see in Chengdu? The Anshun Bridge that crosses the Jin River is very beautiful, and the Sichuan University and Jinli Pedestrian Street is also worth a visit. When is the best time to visit Chengdu? Chinese New Years is a great time to visit Chengdu, there's always a lot of activities and massive fireworks.

What local food specialties can you recommend trying in Chengdu? Definitely the Hot Pot. It's a pot of hot spicy oil filled with skewers of vegetables and meat. I recommend it with duck and tofu.

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Tatiana age 26, Omsk, Russia

What is unique about your hometown? Omsk is especially known for being where the Russian writer Dostoyevsky served his exile in the early 1850s. And for the Trans-Siberian railway that converge there. What is a must-see in Omsk? The architecture is very charming with spectacular buildings and monuments around the city. Enjoy a performance at one of the most beautiful buildings in the city - The Drama Theater, or if you're more into sports go see a hockey game at the Omsk Arena. When is the best time to visit Omsk? If you travel as a tourist you should definitely go in the wintertime to get the full Omsk experience - but yes it's very cold! It's not just for fashionable reasons people wear lots of fur lol.

What do you miss the most about your hometown when traveling? My mom's food and especially black bread! And I miss the honesty Russian people have and that even though we're not always satisfied with the ways of our country we do stick together. What local food specialties can you recommend trying in Omsk? The traditional Borsch soup with meat, cabbage and tomato is the perfect way to stay warm. And you'll have to eat lots and lots of meat to protect your body against the cold.

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Bruna age 18, Carmo do Rio Claro Minas Gerais, Brazil

What is unique about your hometown? Coffee production is our largest source of income and mostly all of my family works in the coffee industry. Due to our tropical temperatures and high altitude some of the best coffee in the world is made in Minas Gerais. What is a must-see in Carmo do Rio Claro? The Furnas dam and lake is a popular attraction. You can take a boat trip out on the lake and discover breathtaking waterfalls and nature made pools to swim in. A day trip to the historic town Ouro Preto is also worth a visit. When is the best time to visit Carmo do Rio Claro? In February/March when the weather is beautiful and where you can go to Rio de Janeiro or Sao Paulo for the big Carnival.

What do you miss the most about your hometown when traveling? My family and my grand mothers food! Luckily my twin sister is with me here in NY so I have her close by. What local food specialties can you recommend trying in Carmo do Rio Claro? Our state Minas Gerais is known for the best Pão de Queijo (cheese bread). It's made on milk, yogurt and cheese, and you eat it as a snack.

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Andrea age 21, Prague, Czech Republic

What is unique about your hometown? The amazing architecture in Prague is what makes the city so unique. It attracts a lot of tourists and especially architecture students, from all over the world. What is a must-see in Prague? The Old Town Square surrounding by the beautiful old buildings is one of my favorite places. And I love to walk over Charles Bridge and stroll along the river. When is the best time to visit Prague? Spring-time in Prague is lovely. And Christmas time where the big tree at Old Town Square is lit up - it's an amazing sight!

What do you miss the most about your hometown when traveling? I miss my family and friends, and miss our trips to Krkonose (2-3 hours north of Prague) for skiing, snowboarding and skating. What local food specialties can you recommend trying in Prague? Pork or beef meat with a side dish of dumplings is the traditional Czech food and a must-try when visiting Prague.

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Jaunel age 25, Kingston, Jamaica

What is unique about your hometown? Kingston has a very laid-back atmosphere. The people are friendly and colorful, and have a great appreciation of good food.

What do you miss the most about your hometown when traveling? My family and the laid back culture of Jamaica. You don't find the same vibe anywhere else in the world.

What is a must-see in Kingston? My favorite attraction is to hike up the Blue Mountains. On the highest point you can see both the north and south coasts of the island, and on clear days you can see all the way to Cuba. It's an amazing view! When is the best time to visit Kingston? During Carnival in march-april. The streets are filled with people in colorful costumes dancing and celebrating life.

What local food specialties can you recommend trying in Kingston? Kingston has a lot of cook shops on the street that has amazing food. Oxtail stew with rice and beans is one of my favorite dishes.

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Cristina age 23, Monterrey, Mexico

What is unique about your hometown? The grand mountains surrounding Monterrey - Sierra Madre Oriental, Cerro de las Mitras and Cerro de la Silla - gives the city an extraordinary view! What is a must-see in Monterrey? The Fundidora Park is a beautiful place to visit. It's an old steel factory transformed into a public park with industrial pieces like furnaces and chimneys maintained as art installations. The park has walking tracks, an artificial lake, playgrounds and lots of activities. When is the best time to visit Monterrey? The best time to visit is in March/April when the weather is nice and not too hot yet.

What do you miss the most about your hometown when traveling? Besides my family and friends I miss the friendly mexican vibe. In Monterrey people are very direct in their way compared to here, and I really miss that. What local food specialties can you recommend trying in Monterrey? Family dinner with Carne Asada (grilled beef) is a Sunday tradition in Monterrey that I really love. AND we have the most amazing tacos!

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I miss the honesty Russian people have and that even though we're not always satisfied with the ways of our country we do stick together. Tatiana |  Omsk, Russia

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Diaboli Kill

interview with jewelry designer, angie Marei

Interview Nicole Gavrilles Images Courtesy of Diaboli Kill

The life of a jewelry designer is an adventure any type of artist can relate to. In the beginning, the artist defines the brand, that unique fire that ignites people's curiosity to learn more. Next, the artist develops the pieces of the collection, infusing it with the skills of a passionate creative. Finally, it all melts together into beautiful works of art, that anyone would love to get their hands on. Angie Marei of Diaboli Kill is a New York City-based jewelry designer, hand-crafting beautiful pieces out of her Brooklyn loft/studio. She recently began this journey and her collection has been featured in this year's September issue of Grazia Germany. The entire collection is absolutely stunning and beautifully flawless! I had the chance to ask Angie some questions about how she began her business, where she draws inspiration, and her future goals.

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levant rings in cobalt, white & agate

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calavera rosa nail rings in rosegold, gold & gunmetal

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exquis ring yellow gold with diamonds

Can you tell us a little about your background? I was born and raised in New York and now I live in our Brooklyn loft/studio with my husband, and son. As a child I have always enjoyed the process of making and building things. I made my own clothes and costumes, I made robots, took apart electronics and reassembled them, I designed tattoos for friends, I even made my own horror movies. It was my dream to become some sort of artist as a child so it was only natural that I went to art school for college, majoring in Communications Design at Pratt Institute. My first real job was at a luxury fashion advertising and branding agency designing ads and packaging for major brands like Gucci, YSL, John Varvatos, Estee Lauder and that was opened my eyes to the world of luxury.

working on developing my aesthetic and designing my debut collection.

  After working as an art director in advertising and branding for years and staring at a computer screen all day I really began to miss making things by hand. I began taking courses in fine jewelry at ISJD (International School of Jewelry & Design) in New York and had the opportunity to study with an amazing master jeweler, Jukka Keranen. Jewelry making and designing suddenly became my addiction, it was like a fever. I even took time off work to go back to school full time and really learn the craft. I continue to take metalsmithing and goldsmithing workshops at Fitzgerald Jewelry School in Williamsburg, Brooklyn. I spent the past 3 years

  I also get inspiration from all around the world by travelling and visiting museums, collecting art and jewelry books. I love the art deco period and reference a lot of my designs from sculptures and jewelry from that period.

Where do you get your jewelry design inspiration come from? My father is Egyptian and growing up he would always tell me stories about the history of ancient Egypt, how the pyramids were built, the process of mummification, ancient superstitions; he was really into the dark spiritual side of Egyptian history. I went to Egypt a few times as a kid and my family also bought a lot of Egyptian gold jewelry and I would always receive lots of jewelry from my relatives as gifts. Incorporating elements of ancient Egyptian design into my jewelry is my way of keeping ties to my Egyptian heritage.

Do your pieces have a theme or underlying idea? I have always been attracted to the dark side since a child. I grew up watching horror movies and reading thriller fiction novels and going to the local Botanica to buy things that had magic spells. I had a very superstitious family who believe in all kinds of things

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like witchcraft, spirits and demons. I really enjoyed learning about all things occult. I find that no matter what I do my designs always have a underlying theme of dark spiritualism, power and luxury. What was your inspiration for your new pieces you're about to release? The debut collection, Lux Ex Tenebris, latin for “Light in Darkness”, celebrates the splendor of the Egyptian Empire’s icons. Fine metals accented by subtle jewels encapsulate the power, poignancy and luxury of the gods and goddesses with a structure that evokes the essence of the chambers that housed their remembrance, the Pyramids. The Lux ex Tenebris collection curates unisex pieces that don’t draw attention, but demand it, allowing the adornment and extravagance of ancient beauty and power in the present day.

Do you listen to music while you're designing? If so what do you like to listen to? I am always listening to music while I work. I like a different variety depending on what my mood is. Right now I listen to a lot of Iamamiwhoami, Joy Division, New Order, Bauhaus, Cocteau Twins, Pet Shop Boys, Twin Peaks Soundtrack, David Bowie, Jessie Ware, Kraftwerk, Kenrick Lamar, Drake, Emika, Gesaffelstein, Chet Baker, Julie London and Piero Umiliani. Its kind of all over the place but I really appreciate all kinds of music.

How was being a small business owner changed your design approach? Being a self-funded small business owner I realized that I had to be mindful of how I allocated my budget for production. I decided that quality over quantity is what is most important to me. So I chose to spend my funds When you first started, did your friends and family carefully to design and produce high-quality pieces in support you? small amounts. Right now I only produce pieces that My husband Jarrod saw how much I enjoyed making are made to order. jewelry and he encouraged me to take to it seriously and really go for it and he helped me set up my business. Have you had any celebrities wearing your pieces? I also met a great group of people in jewelry industry No, not yet. I have not even really launched my debut (teachers, metal smiths, designers, and jewelers) that I collection yet but I had some pieces in a few magazines have become friends with who have also been extremely already. I am hoping once I launch my new collection, it kind and supportive. will get noticed by stylists and celebrities. Do you design from a studio or your home? I design mostly from my workshop/studio at home. I work on sketches first, then I make a wax model or design on my computer and make a 3d printed model. I also spend a lot of time in the jewelry district in Manhattan getting castings produced, sourcing materials and stones.

Is there a specific celebrity you'd love to see wearing your designs? Rooney Mara because she isn’t really so mainstream and seems quite private. Her red carpet style is chic, elegant and timeless, but with a feminine touch of dark edginess.

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choker silver

octavian bracelet silver with white diamonds

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damian ring yellow gold onyx

Beyond your business, what are your hobbies or passions? Hanging out with my baby boy Lucien and my husband Jarrod and our two dogs. I also love travelling, and working out. As an artist are there mediums beyond jewelry you enjoy? I am also an art director and graphic designer so I love designing on Photoshop and Illustrator. I also love drawing-I draw everyday and carry around sketchbooks with me all the time and I enjoy making sculptures. What do you hope the future holds for you? I hope that Diaboli Kill becomes a successful small luxury brand and I would love to collaborate with other artists with similar aesthetic on bigger projects. You can view the entire collection on diabolikill.com

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From sidewalk to catwalk

the fashion world of jean paul gaultier

Words Lady Sybilia Photography Nicole Gavrilles

There is hardly a more “theatrical’’ fashion designer than Jean Paul Gaultier so there’s no question why the exhibition, put together by Montreal Museum of Fine Arts director Nathalie Bondil and curator Thierry Maxime Loriot is such a great success. Currently held at Brooklyn Museum in New York, the exhibition is a masterful collection of all Gaultier’s iconic pieces, a grand retrospective fueled with the designer’s exceptional pattern cut work, wit and playful presentation of female sexuality. Not to mention his personal enthusiasm, made clear on the opening day!

has managed to maintain his status as a fine couturier and still provide visual “food for thought’’ with every collection he launches.The exhibition showcases the hidden craftsmanship and various influences behind iconic, highly visual, JPG outfits.   The multimedia exhibition is organized around seven themes, based on the dominating influences on Gaultier's development phases which ranges from Parisian street wear to the cinema aesthetics. Visitors have the opportunity to view his visual journey. This layout traces the development of Gaultier’s visual language during his various phases, from multicultural influences made into couture, to his vision of pushing the gender issue further, as well as his strong contribution to the perception of fashion as art.

  Jean Paul Gaultier may no longer be the “L'enfant terrible’’ of the French Couture scene, however he is one of the few designers managed to create a unique personal world, were transformative, playful, sexy and highly visual elements merge together along with the outmost couture quality. Driven by ambition in his   What is interesting about the particular exhibition is designs yet extremely aware of the finishing detail, JPG that the items are being showcased not in a still manner

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Fashion is not clothes on the hanger; it was always about dressing somebody. Somebody has to be inside.

but in a “performance approach”. Custom mannequins with interactive faces created by high-definition audiovisual projections are traced to walk, cry, and talk. “I love theater, I love shows ... I wanted to make it alive.” Gaultier emphatically stated at the press preview. It’s the visual, live element of Gaultier’s work that asks for such an approach instead of a static exhibition. The main idea of “interaction” with the public is being explored further, with the presence of a life size model of the designer himself (in his signature men's trouser-skirt), speaking in his own voice, thus virtually introduce the tour to his very own world!   The exhibition features 130 of his finest couture and ready-to-wear outfits including his childhood teddy bear, the conical bra designed for his close friend Madonna, the mermaid-shaped gown that Marion Cotillard wore to the 2008 Oscars, along with impressive sketches and drawings. What’s new to the Brooklyn exhibition, though, is the creation of an extra section dedicated to Gaultier's numerous muses. The fishnet-

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i wanted to make it alive.

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covered floral gown made for model Crystal Renn, the bronze-beaded catsuit for Naomi Campbell, the floral tulle leotard for Beth Ditto are all in display amongst others, equally iconic. The Amy Winehouse-inspired gown that male model Andrej Pejic wore in a 2012 couture show dedicated to her style, is also in display in that very section.   It’s the first exhibition in the US and Gaultier can’t hide how pleased he is. He enthusiastically told AFP he loves “the diversity, the energy and the adrenaline, the American way of life.” And added: “It's the openness of course, people of different races who come together, so much energy.” As for the exhibition being shown in Brooklyn the once “L'enfant terrible’’ of Couture joked that: “Brooklyn is a very 'hip' part of New York, and I am very flattered, at my age.”   The exhibition is expected to last until February 23, with the exhibition then moving to London Barbican Center. Note that this is actually the first international exhibition dedicated to the great Couturier, making it an event not to be missed.

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The New Words Danielle Peterson Images Courtesy of Vogue.com and Style.com

Classics While the rest of the world was wrapping itself up in coats and dark colors in anticipation of fall and winter, designers in New York, Paris, Milan and London were busy setting the stage for a spring awakening set to feature floral print, lace, bold hues and metallic. Many outfits went down the runway showcasing an elevated level of printmaking and a knack for working with bright colors, but designers also treated those in need of a palette cleanser to eye-popping monochromatic collections. Although Spring 2014 brought some trends we’ve seen before, designers presented looks in a new and different way to incorporate the changing times and pace of the industry. They played with cuts ranging from sporty to feminine and texture bringing some of the patterns to life like never before. This upcoming season it’s time to try some of your favorite trends again but with a daring twist, because whoever said all good things must come to an end clearly didn’t have enough floral prints.

Back to Bold   Designers took a fresh approach to spring with bold colors from head to toe that were eye catching without being overdone. Alberta Ferretti utilized pinks, oranges and reds on clothing looked like they belonged at a sophisticated, fashion-forward fiesta. Ann Demeulemeester, in what was her second to last collection with her own label, created lace-like prints in red hues and combined them with patterned tights that were to die for. Demeulemeester went for looks in all one color, but mixed patterns and textures to create a visual feast that at times had a very witchy tone. Finally, Roksanda Ilincic and Acne showed yellow in bright ways that embodied springtime and ranged from sporty and edgy to flirty and demure. All in Bloom   Although one could argue that floral prints never went away, it’s safe to say they are officially back in

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alberta ferretti

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band of outsiders

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designers presented looks in a new and different way to incorporate the changing times and pace of the industry.

full force for Spring 2014. Presented in all shapes and sizes, no two designers used floral prints the same. Blumarine went for ethereal and feminine in the form of romantic white and nude eveningwear. London designer Markus Lupfer made floral prints young and edgy with head to toe patterns and short structured dresses. Mary Katrantzou, Matthew Williamson and Giambattista Valli fashioned three-dimensional flowers that blossomed off the clothing. By embracing floral prints in all new ways, designers demonstrated their creativity by creating either red carpet worthy gowns or perfect day dresses.

a big role on the runways, whether in dresses dripping in prim lace that would be fit for any princess or sultry ensembles that were what one imagines when black magic and lingerie combine. Regardless of the side they took, the garments were polarizing in a great way. Marchesa, Thakoon and Alberta Ferretti embraced sexy with some of their pieces while Temperley London, Meadham Kirchhoff and Alice + Olivia took an elegant and feminine approach to lace that often bordered on playful. Either way, lace had a strong showing, and whether you go for the dark or the light side, it will be a fun way to dress up when spring comes around.

Lace Case   Fashion fluctuated between light and the dark this season in more than just its color palette. Designers like Thom Browne featured models with ghost-like makeup clad in all white, and Marc Jacobs finished his career at Louis Vuitton with a witchy dark show in which all models wore head to toe black. Lace played

Metallic Madness   Designers showcased metallic colors in a major way by incorporating it in their shows in the form of platforms, skirts or decadent dresses. Dries Van Noten and Dolce & Gabbana used gold brocade to create overthe-top outfits with Greco-Roman influences while Reem Acra used the ‘70s as inspiration for metallic

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blumarine

dolce and gabbana

mary katrantzou

giambattista valli

lanvin

Francesco Scognamiglio

spring

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oscar de la renta

proenza schouler

Dries Van Noten

alexander wang

erdem

derek lam

2014

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party dresses. Lanvin dived in the deep end and created a completely metallic collection while Altuzarra, Christopher Kane and Proenza Schouler made use of the trend by creating gold, silver or multicolored skirts. Whether in subtle shiny hints or full disco era fabulousness, metallic colors are likely to make waves when street style photographers swarm the fall shows because fashion taught us this season that all that glitters is not only gold, but also silver and bronze too. Night and Day   Season after season has trained us that mixing prints is the best way to stand out, but designers took a new approach and decided to go back to basics with color palettes that featured either black, white or a combination of the two. The look is bold and sophisticated, and designers added their own touches to bring the classic trend to present day. Alexander Wang used his name to form a pattern. Derek Lam showed black and white gingham, and Erdem, who usually go for brighter patterns, presented black and white floral prints. Other designers like Moschino and Chanel left the patterns behind completely using only the two colors together to make a statement on their own. Seeing black and white return to the runways was a fun twist and a reminder that just because something is simple doesn’t mean it can’t stand out.

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ann demeulemeester

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fashion picks roberto cavalli

Jennifer Ouellette

$920

$320

milly $625

karen walker $250

AZZEDINE ALA Ï A $927 P ROENZA SCHOULER $2934

3.1 phillip lim $1001

MANOLO BLAHNIK $645

maiyet $2250

all items can be found at barney's & browns fashion

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irene Neuwirth $1100

Tila march $620

3.1 phillip lim $1731

DRIES VAN NOTEN $1298

marni $1350

AZZEDINE ALA Ï A $1537 balenciaga $825 tibi $595

check out the latest must-haves of the season

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1 jonathan saunders $850, 2 acne $1350, 3 valentino $913, 4 proenza schouler $4970, 5 balenciaga $1113, 7 natasha goldenberg x ek $480, 7 chloé $1210, 7 laurence dacade $1113, 9 the row $1350

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p laids & pun k

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1 3.1 phillip lim $1650, 2 paige denim $456, 3 pollini $761, 4 akris $2242, 5 alexander mcqueen $2194, 6 lanvin $1150, 7 christopher kane $1041, 8 laurence dacade $1073, 9 stella mccartney $625

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c redits All images used in articles and features are credited along with each page they are featured on. All photographers featured own full rights to their images Fashion Picks sections / Barneys.com, brownsfashion.com The New Classics / vogue.com, style.com Jean Paul Gaultier Exhibition / Nicole Gavrilles Diaboli Kill Article / Courtesy of Angie Marei Back Cover / Superfamous Studios


on e m a g . u s

ONE Issue No. 7  
ONE Issue No. 7  

The Voyage Issue

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