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one magazine i s s u e NO . 7 . 5 nyc

W i n t e r II 2014

t h e v o y a g e

i s s u e

v 2 . 0


07.5

Established june 2010

boston new

york

city

sarasota


contributors

EDITORIALS Djamel Boucly, Louise Smit, Angelika Wierzbicka, Brianne Wills

arti c les / f eat u res Diaboli Kill, Danielle Peterson, Lady Sybilia

TEAM Assistant Submission Reviewer Shannon Soule

All designs, creative and art direction were completed and produced by Nicole Gavrilles Š ONE Magazine Nicole Gavrilles 2013 ONEMAG.US


c o n ta c t u s

shop Visit our page at Magcloud.com to view previous issues and purchase a print & digital issue

s u b missio n s Send all submissions to info.onemag@gmail.com

v isit For more information, visit www.onemag.us

information

information

If you have any questions or comments, email us at info.onemag@gmail.com


i s s u e NO . 7 . 5 nyc

18

42

Free Minds

Afternoon Sisters

Photos by Djamel Boucly

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Red, White & Blue All Over Photos by Angelika Wierzbicka

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Summer Blooms Photos by Louise Smit

EDITORIALS

Photos by Brianne Wills


the

voyage

issue

v2.0

50

Interview− Diaboli Kill Interview by Nicole Gavrilles

58

From Sidewalk to Catwalk Written by Lady Sybilia

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Fashion Picks Winter 2013 / 2014

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The New Classics Written by Danielle Peterson

FEATURES


Do it again. Play it again. Sing it again. Read it again. Write it again. Sketch it again. Rehearse it again. Run it again. Try it again. 07.5

l e t t e r f r o m

e d i t o r


A

gain. Usually the one word I repeat to myself when it's time to think about the next issue. Why do I contiue working on this? Why do I put myself under so much pressure each year to put out these issues? Because it's what I love to do. Other than loving design and fashion photography, I love making things that will make others happy. So it never matters how long it takes to put out an issue or how tired I get. As long as the end result is something I'm satisfied with. Not many of you know that I do this all on my own. It's been three years since I started ONE and it means the world to me that my readers have followed me through this crazy idea I once had. Thank you, for always believing. Again comes into context with not just the process from start to finish, but also the bumpy roads you face in-between. Nothing's perfect but I never want to release an issue until I feel it's ready. I tried again and again on this one (I've been working on issue 7 since June) and now I believe it's ready. Enjoy. founder, editor at large, designer

Nicole Gavrilles


07.5

e d i t o r i a l s d e s i g n e r s a r t i c l e s


no. 7.5

Summer blooms Photography Louise Smit, Model Merille Raagas at Viviens, Makeup & Hair Carly Lim, Styling Ashleigh Kelly at Arc Creative

one


top alex mearing, sunglasses ellery, earrings & earcuff lambert


dress josh goo, neckpiece lulu frost, earcuff lambert


jacket faith connexion, blouse rebecca taylor, skirt josh goot, earrings lambert

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top josh goot, skirt hyde, heels camilla skovgarrd, ear pieces lambert


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top alex mearing, crop sabo (worn underneath), sweater kenzo, pants camilla and marc

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shirt & pants laurence airline, jacket wanda nylon


no. 7.5

free Photography Djamel Boucly, Model Claudia Anticevic at Women, Makeup & Hair Regina Tornwall, Styling Anne B채rwald

m i n ds one


shirt & skirt ria keburia, shoes gรถran horal

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dress andrea crews, sweater alibellus, harness zana bayne, scarf isabel benenato, shoes gรถran horal


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coat pellissiomo, cropped top benjamin leprince, pants araisara

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leather dress & coat tsolo munkh, shirt & leather legging isabel benenato, earrings renĂŠ talmon l'armĂŠe


body falke, fur vest tsolo munkh, skirt andrea crews, belt zana bayne, shoes göran horal, earrings rené talmon l'armée

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coat alibellus, dress dsquared, shoes gรถran horal, necklace jordane someville


tartan top & skirt andrea crews, lack skirt wanda nylon, shirt/collar benjamin leprince, shoes gรถran horal, glasses cast


tartan top andrea crews, shirt/collar benjamin leprince, long scarf/vest pleats please issey miyake, glasses cast


jumpsuit pleats please issey miyake, felt vest bless, shoes göran horal, bangles rené talmon l'armée


blazer topshop boutique, skirt & corset topshop


no. 7.5

red, white & blue Photography Angelika Wierzbicka, Model Nicole at PRM Management, Makeup & Hair Adele Sanderson, Styling Angelika Wierzbicka, Photography Assistant Christopher H

all over

one


top rover island, trousers topshop

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dress topshop vintage, heels red herring at debenhams


corset topshop, trousers monki


turtleneck topshop, top river island, polkadot shirt topshop, heels all saints


no. 7.5

 after–     noon sisters Photography BriAnne Wills, Models Alyona at 1Mother and Anna S. at PM Management, Makeup Julia Kuzmenko, Styling Anna Litkovska

one


dress vintage (stylist's own), white dress lynn adler


left — dress bevza, cape katja bereznitsky right — dress ivan frolov, cape katja bereznitsky


dress bevza

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blouse katja bereznitsky, pants bevza, shoes jeffrey campbell

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coat bevza, dress bevza


left — dress ivan frolov, cape katja bereznitsky right — dress bevza, cape katja bereznitsky


dress katja bereznitsky

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d i a b o l i k i l l    •    i n t e r v i e w   •    n o . 7 . 5

Diaboli Kill

interview with jewelry designer, angie Marei

Interview Nicole Gavrilles Images Courtesy of Diaboli Kill

The life of a jewelry designer is an adventure any type of artist can relate to. In the beginning, the artist defines the brand, that unique fire that ignites people's curiosity to learn more. Next, the artist develops the pieces of the collection, infusing it with the skills of a passionate creative. Finally, it all melts together into beautiful works of art, that anyone would love to get their hands on. Angie Marei of Diaboli Kill is a New York City-based jewelry designer, hand-crafting beautiful pieces out of her Brooklyn loft/studio. She recently began this journey and her collection has been featured in this year's September issue of Grazia Germany. The entire collection is absolutely stunning and beautifully flawless! I had the chance to ask Angie some questions about how she began her business, where she draws inspiration, and her future goals.

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levant rings in cobalt, white & agate

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calavera rosa nail rings in rosegold, gold & gunmetal

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exquis ring yellow gold with diamonds

Can you tell us a little about your background? I was born and raised in New York and now I live in our Brooklyn loft/studio with my husband, and son. As a child I have always enjoyed the process of making and building things. I made my own clothes and costumes, I made robots, took apart electronics and reassembled them, I designed tattoos for friends, I even made my own horror movies. It was my dream to become some sort of artist as a child so it was only natural that I went to art school for college, majoring in Communications Design at Pratt Institute. My first real job was at a luxury fashion advertising and branding agency designing ads and packaging for major brands like Gucci, YSL, John Varvatos, Estee Lauder and that was opened my eyes to the world of luxury.

working on developing my aesthetic and designing my debut collection.

  After working as an art director in advertising and branding for years and staring at a computer screen all day I really began to miss making things by hand. I began taking courses in fine jewelry at ISJD (International School of Jewelry & Design) in New York and had the opportunity to study with an amazing master jeweler, Jukka Keranen. Jewelry making and designing suddenly became my addiction, it was like a fever. I even took time off work to go back to school full time and really learn the craft. I continue to take metalsmithing and goldsmithing workshops at Fitzgerald Jewelry School in Williamsburg, Brooklyn. I spent the past 3 years

  I also get inspiration from all around the world by travelling and visiting museums, collecting art and jewelry books. I love the art deco period and reference a lot of my designs from sculptures and jewelry from that period.

Where do you get your jewelry design inspiration come from? My father is Egyptian and growing up he would always tell me stories about the history of ancient Egypt, how the pyramids were built, the process of mummification, ancient superstitions; he was really into the dark spiritual side of Egyptian history. I went to Egypt a few times as a kid and my family also bought a lot of Egyptian gold jewelry and I would always receive lots of jewelry from my relatives as gifts. Incorporating elements of ancient Egyptian design into my jewelry is my way of keeping ties to my Egyptian heritage.

Do your pieces have a theme or underlying idea? I have always been attracted to the dark side since a child. I grew up watching horror movies and reading thriller fiction novels and going to the local Botanica to buy things that had magic spells. I had a very superstitious family who believe in all kinds of things

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Do you listen to music while you're designing? If so what do you like to listen to? I am always listening to music while I work. I like a different variety depending on what my mood is. Right now I listen to a lot of Iamamiwhoami, Joy Division, New Order, Bauhaus, Cocteau Twins, Pet Shop Boys, Twin Peaks Soundtrack, David Bowie, Jessie Ware, Kraftwerk, Kenrick Lamar, Drake, Emika, Gesaffelstein, Chet Baker, Julie London and Piero Umiliani. Its kind of all over the place but I really appreciate all kinds of music.

like witchcraft, spirits and demons. I really enjoyed learning about all things occult. I find that no matter what I do my designs always have a underlying theme of dark spiritualism, power and luxury. What was your inspiration for your new pieces you're about to release? The debut collection, Lux Ex Tenebris, latin for “Light in Darkness”, celebrates the splendor of the Egyptian Empire’s icons. Fine metals accented by subtle jewels encapsulate the power, poignancy and luxury of the gods and goddesses with a structure that evokes the essence of the chambers that housed their remembrance, the Pyramids. The Lux ex Tenebris collection curates unisex pieces that don’t draw attention, but demand it, allowing the adornment and extravagance of ancient beauty and power in the present day.

How was being a small business owner changed your design approach? Being a self-funded small business owner I realized that I had to be mindful of how I allocated my budget for production. I decided that quality over quantity is what is most important to me. So I chose to spend my funds When you first started, did your friends and family carefully to design and produce high-quality pieces in support you? small amounts. Right now I only produce pieces that My husband Jarrod saw how much I enjoyed making are made to order. jewelry and he encouraged me to take to it seriously and really go for it and he helped me set up my business. Have you had any celebrities wearing your pieces? I also met a great group of people in jewelry industry No, not yet. I have not even really launched my debut (teachers, metal smiths, designers, and jewelers) that I collection yet but I had some pieces in a few magazines have become friends with who have also been extremely already. I am hoping once I launch my new collection, it kind and supportive. will get noticed by stylists and celebrities. Do you design from a studio or your home? I design mostly from my workshop/studio at home. I work on sketches first, then I make a wax model or design on my computer and make a 3d printed model. I also spend a lot of time in the jewelry district in Manhattan getting castings produced, sourcing materials and stones.

Is there a specific celebrity you'd love to see wearing your designs? Rooney Mara because she isn’t really so mainstream and seems quite private. Her red carpet style is chic, elegant and timeless, but with a feminine touch of dark edginess.

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choker silver

octavian bracelet silver with white diamonds

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d i a b o l i k i l l   •   i n t e r v i e w   •    n o . 7 . 5

damian ring yellow gold onyx

Beyond your business, what are your hobbies or passions? Hanging out with my baby boy Lucien and my husband Jarrod and our two dogs. I also love travelling, and working out. As an artist are there mediums beyond jewelry you enjoy? I am also an art director and graphic designer so I love designing on Photoshop and Illustrator. I also love drawing-I draw everyday and carry around sketchbooks with me all the time and I enjoy making sculptures. What do you hope the future holds for you? I hope that Diaboli Kill becomes a successful small luxury brand and I would love to collaborate with other artists with similar aesthetic on bigger projects. You can view the entire collection on diabolikill.com

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f r o m s i d e w a l k t o c a t w a l k   •    a r t i c l e    •    n o . 7 . 5

From sidewalk to catwalk

the fashion world of jean paul gaultier

Words Lady Sybilia Photography Nicole Gavrilles

has managed to maintain his status as a fine couturier and still provide visual “food for thought’’ with every collection he launches.The exhibition showcases the hidden craftsmanship and various influences behind iconic, highly visual, JPG outfits.

There is hardly a more “theatrical’’ fashion designer than Jean Paul Gaultier so there’s no question why the exhibition, put together by Montreal Museum of Fine Arts director Nathalie Bondil and curator Thierry Maxime Loriot is such a great success. Currently held at Brooklyn Museum in New York, the exhibition is a masterful collection of all Gaultier’s iconic pieces, a grand retrospective fueled with the designer’s exceptional pattern cut work, wit and playful presentation of female sexuality. Not to mention his personal enthusiasm, made clear on the opening day!

  The multimedia exhibition is organized around seven themes, based on the dominating influences on Gaultier's development phases which ranges from Parisian street wear to the cinema aesthetics. Visitors have the opportunity to view his visual journey. This layout traces the development of Gaultier’s visual language during his various phases, from multicultural influences made into couture, to his vision of pushing the gender issue further, as well as his strong contribution to the perception of fashion as art.

  Jean Paul Gaultier may no longer be the “L'enfant terrible’’ of the French Couture scene, however he is one of the few designers managed to create a unique personal world, were transformative, playful, sexy and highly visual elements merge together along with the outmost couture quality. Driven by ambition in his   What is interesting about the particular exhibition is designs yet extremely aware of the finishing detail, JPG that the items are being showcased not in a still manner

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Fashion is not clothes on the hanger; it was always about dressing somebody. Somebody has to be inside.

but in a “performance approach”. Custom mannequins with interactive faces created by high-definition audiovisual projections are traced to walk, cry, and talk. “I love theater, I love shows ... I wanted to make it alive.” Gaultier emphatically stated at the press preview. It’s the visual, live element of Gaultier’s work that asks for such an approach instead of a static exhibition. The main idea of “interaction” with the public is being explored further, with the presence of a life size model of the designer himself (in his signature men's trouser-skirt), speaking in his own voice, thus virtually introduce the tour to his very own world!   The exhibition features 130 of his finest couture and ready-to-wear outfits including his childhood teddy bear, the conical bra designed for his close friend Madonna, the mermaid-shaped gown that Marion Cotillard wore to the 2008 Oscars, along with impressive sketches and drawings. What’s new to the Brooklyn exhibition, though, is the creation of an extra section dedicated to Gaultier's numerous muses. The fishnet-

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i wanted to make it alive.

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covered floral gown made for model Crystal Renn, the bronze-beaded catsuit for Naomi Campbell, the floral tulle leotard for Beth Ditto are all in display amongst others, equally iconic. The Amy Winehouse-inspired gown that male model Andrej Pejic wore in a 2012 couture show dedicated to her style, is also in display in that very section.   It’s the first exhibition in the US and Gaultier can’t hide how pleased he is. He enthusiastically told AFP he loves “the diversity, the energy and the adrenaline, the American way of life.” And added: “It's the openness of course, people of different races who come together, so much energy.” As for the exhibition being shown in Brooklyn the once “L'enfant terrible’’ of Couture joked that: “Brooklyn is a very 'hip' part of New York, and I am very flattered, at my age.”   The exhibition is expected to last until February 23, with the exhibition then moving to London Barbican Center. Note that this is actually the first international exhibition dedicated to the great Couturier, making it an event not to be missed.

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The New Words Danielle Peterson Images Courtesy of Vogue.com and Style.com

Classics Back to Bold   Designers took a fresh approach to spring with bold colors from head to toe that were eye catching without being overdone. Alberta Ferretti utilized pinks, oranges and reds on clothing looked like they belonged at a sophisticated, fashion-forward fiesta. Ann Demeulemeester, in what was her second to last collection with her own label, created lace-like prints in red hues and combined them with patterned tights that were to die for. Demeulemeester went for looks in all one color, but mixed patterns and textures to create a visual feast that at times had a very witchy tone. Finally, Roksanda Ilincic and Acne showed yellow in bright ways that embodied springtime and ranged from sporty and edgy to flirty and demure.

While the rest of the world was wrapping itself up in coats and dark colors in anticipation of fall and winter, designers in New York, Paris, Milan and London were busy setting the stage for a spring awakening set to feature floral print, lace, bold hues and metallic. Many outfits went down the runway showcasing an elevated level of printmaking and a knack for working with bright colors, but designers also treated those in need of a palette cleanser to eye-popping monochromatic collections. Although Spring 2014 brought some trends we’ve seen before, designers presented looks in a new and different way to incorporate the changing times and pace of the industry. They played with cuts ranging from sporty to feminine and texture bringing some of the patterns to life like never before. This upcoming season it’s time to try some of your favorite trends again but with a daring twist, because whoever said all good things must come to an end clearly didn’t have enough floral prints.

All in Bloom   Although one could argue that floral prints never went away, it’s safe to say they are officially back in

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alberta ferretti

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band of outsiders

t h e n e w c l a s s i c s    •    a r t i c l e    •    n o . 7 . 5

ann demeulemeester

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designers presented looks in a new and different way to incorporate the changing times and pace of the industry.

full force for Spring 2014. Presented in all shapes and sizes, no two designers used floral prints the same. Blumarine went for ethereal and feminine in the form of romantic white and nude eveningwear. London designer Markus Lupfer made floral prints young and edgy with head to toe patterns and short structured dresses. Mary Katrantzou, Matthew Williamson and Giambattista Valli fashioned three-dimensional flowers that blossomed off the clothing. By embracing floral prints in all new ways, designers demonstrated their creativity by creating either red carpet worthy gowns or perfect day dresses.

a big role on the runways, whether in dresses dripping in prim lace that would be fit for any princess or sultry ensembles that were what one imagines when black magic and lingerie combine. Regardless of the side they took, the garments were polarizing in a great way. Marchesa, Thakoon and Alberta Ferretti embraced sexy with some of their pieces while Temperley London, Meadham Kirchhoff and Alice + Olivia took an elegant and feminine approach to lace that often bordered on playful. Either way, lace had a strong showing, and whether you go for the dark or the light side, it will be a fun way to dress up when spring comes around.

Lace Case   Fashion fluctuated between light and the dark this season in more than just its color palette. Designers like Thom Browne featured models with ghost-like makeup clad in all white, and Marc Jacobs finished his career at Louis Vuitton with a witchy dark show in which all models wore head to toe black. Lace played

Metallic Madness   Designers showcased metallic colors in a major way by incorporating it in their shows in the form of platforms, skirts or decadent dresses. Dries Van Noten and Dolce & Gabbana used gold brocade to create overthe-top outfits with Greco-Roman influences while Reem Acra used the ‘70s as inspiration for metallic

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blumarine

dolce and gabbana

mary katrantzou

giambattista valli

lanvin

Francesco Scognamiglio

spring

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oscar de la renta

proenza schouler

Dries Van Noten

alexander wang

erdem

derek lam

2014

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party dresses. Lanvin dived in the deep end and created a completely metallic collection while Altuzarra, Christopher Kane and Proenza Schouler made use of the trend by creating gold, silver or multicolored skirts. Whether in subtle shiny hints or full disco era fabulousness, metallic colors are likely to make waves when street style photographers swarm the fall shows because fashion taught us this season that all that glitters is not only gold, but also silver and bronze too. Night and Day   Season after season has trained us that mixing prints is the best way to stand out, but designers took a new approach and decided to go back to basics with color palettes that featured either black, white or a combination of the two. The look is bold and sophisticated, and designers added their own touches to bring the classic trend to present day. Alexander Wang used his name to form a pattern. Derek Lam showed black and white gingham, and Erdem, who usually go for brighter patterns, presented black and white floral prints. Other designers like Moschino and Chanel left the patterns behind completely using only the two colors together to make a statement on their own. Seeing black and white return to the runways was a fun twist and a reminder that just because something is simple doesn’t mean it can’t stand out.

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ann demeulemeester

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fashion picks roberto cavalli

Jennifer Ouellette

$920

$320

milly $625

karen walker $250

AZZEDINE ALA Ï A $927 PROENZA SCHOULER $2934

3.1 phillip lim $1001

MANOLO BLAHNIK $645

maiyet $2250

all items can be found at barney's & browns fashion

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irene Neuwirth $1100

Tila march $620

3.1 phillip lim $1731

DRIES VAN NOTEN $1298

marni $1350

AZZEDINE ALA Ï A $1537 balenciaga $825 tibi $595

check out the latest must-haves of the season

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p a stel po p

7

1 4

2 8 5

9 6

3

1 jonathan saunders $850, 2 acne $1350, 3 valentino $913, 4 proenza schouler $4970, 5 balenciaga $1113, 7 natasha goldenberg x ek $480, 7 chloé $1210, 7 laurence dacade $1113, 9 the row $1350

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p laids & pun k

1

7 4

2 8 5

9

6 3

1 3.1 phillip lim $1650, 2 paige denim $456, 3 pollini $761, 4 akris $2242, 5 alexander mcqueen $2194, 6 lanvin $1150, 7 christopher kane $1041, 8 laurence dacade $1073, 9 stella mccartney $625

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07.5

t h a n k f o r

y o u

y o u r

c o n t r i b u t i o n


c redits All images used in articles and features are credited along with each page they are featured on. All photographers featured own full rights to their images Fashion Picks sections / Barneys.com, brownsfashion.com The New Classics / vogue.com, style.com Jean Paul Gaultier Exhibition / Nicole Gavrilles Diaboli Kill Article / Courtesy of Angie Marei Back Cover / Djamel Boucly


on e m a g . u s

ONE Issue No. 7.5  

The Voyage Issue 7.5

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