New Latitude New Attitude 2016

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NEW LATITUDE - NEW ATTITUDE

WINE IN

SOUTH EAST ASIA NEW LATITUDE - NEW ATTITUDE

OLIVER GRUEN

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NEW LATITUDE NEW ATTITUDE WINE CULTURE IN SOUTH EAST ASIA OLIVER GRUEN published & distributed by

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TABLE OF CONTENTS WELCOME

FOREWORD HISTORY MAP

TROPICAL WINEMAKING AND VITICULTURE VARIETY, SUN, WATER & FUNGHUS SEASONS

GRAPES

FUNCTIONING WHITES REDS

TASTING WINE

EYES, NOSE & PALETE

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REGIONS

THAILAND & MYANMAR BALI, CAMBODIA, LAOS & VIETNAM

PAIRING FOOD & WINE SPICY, SOUR, BITTER, SWEET & UMAMI

LONG DRINKS WINES IN COCKTAILS

GLOBAL EXPERIENCE

HONG KONG WINE FAIR ASIAN WINEPRODUCERS‘ ASSOCIATION INTERVIEW THE TRAVELING WINEMAKER

CONCLUSION PUBLISHING INFORMATION

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SOUTH IS EAST IS ASIA IS IS SOUTH IS EAST IS AS IS ASIA IS SOUTH IS EAS 10


WELCOME

S SOUTH IS EAST IS ASIA IS SOUTH IS EAST IS ASIA SIA IS SOUTH IS EAST IS ASIA IS SOUTH IS EAST ST IS ASIA IS SOUTH IS EAST IS ASIA IS SOUTH IS 11



It was thought “real wine“ could only grow between

30 and 50 degrees of latitude. Maverick wine-makers have taught us that serious viticulture can be accomplished at 13 degrees latitude, a fact that the Western World has always doubted. Robert Parker, the world‘s most famous wine taster, has rated Thai wines up to 87 points, and four Thai wines have made it into the Top 12 of the best Asian wines in the Australian “Wine Selector“ magazine. Myanmar wines are offered in nearly every high-end hotel in tourist destinations. In the ASEAN Region, approximately 40 wineries produce wine, numbering close to a million bottles annually. Chenin Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon seem to best fit the soil and climate. Harvest is usually between February and April. Due to the tropical climate, pruning takes place all year round, and some wine makers have managed a harvest twice or three times a year.


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ON THE MAP The conventional map of the wine world needs to be altered. The world‘s wine growing areas latitudes are no longer confined exclusively to between 30 and 50 degrees. Technical advances and growing expertise has steered wine grapevines to places never imagined. “Old World” wines from Europe were followed by “New World” wines from the Americas, Southern Africa, and Oceania. Now, last but not least, come wines from the equatorial “New Latitude.” Vines in this seemingly hostile environment have quickly adapted, and when treated carefully, give their best to the grape. Some of the most difficult issues producing quality wine

New Latitude - New Attitude

grapes in the tropics include warm nights, lack of a “winter sleep,” the unvarying daylight, as the sun rises and sets at nearly the same time all year round (although the sun’s intensity remains a helpful factor), and the necessity of irrigation. All of these difficulties have been tackled in the last 20 years, and the “New Latitude” wines can now be considered a global contender. 15


A SHORT HISTORY “It started with a dream.“ This is what vintners say when asked how it all began. Some tasted their first wines on business trips to America, others in Hong Kong, and some said they wanted to produce something better than what they find in supermarkets and wine shops. Others fell for the glamour that wine evokes, and the elegant surroundings it is served in. But each and every one followed their intuition, in spite of the head-shakes from neighbors and friends. A lot of learning, numerous trips to established wine growing countries, and plenty of tasting and drinking were required to start up in this new region.

It started with a dream

Most of all were the difficult questions that needed answers: where do I find the right soil, the right climate, where do I find the equipment, and who will support my dream? Will my wife or partner still love me if I spend more time in the vineyard and/ or cellar than with her? 16



BEING AN EXPLORER

When Italian explorer Christopher Columbus first announced he was going to navigate a seemingly impossible westward route to India, a headshake was least of his rejections. Most of the people then still believed the earth was flat. It took him a decade to finally convince the Queen of Spain, Isabella the 1st, to believe in him and finance his exploration. The rest is history. Great explorers have never been thwarted by public opinion, opting instead to forge ahead in realizing their ideas. Nothing can be attained if determined and idealistic visionaries bow to naysayers.

VINTNERS ARE THE HEROES

Columbus did not, and in 1492, he “Sailed the Ocean Blue.” The winemakers in the ASEAN Region are akin to early explorers – visionary and determined to do what must have seemed impossible. 18

Winegrowing and making in South East Asia appeared to be an unimaginably difficult task. All odds were against the prospective vintners: a lack of information on how to grow wine grapes in the region and little expertise; non-existent supplies (grapes and vines, fermentation tanks and barrels, bottling machinery, and even bottles and corks!); clientele that had to be created; and high taxation on alcohol hampered potential winemakers’ efforts to even consider the prospect. Only determination, ambition, and the ability to overcome the myriad obstacles - as well as convincing investors and eliciting expertise from the western world – made it possible. As new vintners, they have not yet reached their peak of performance, and every year offers new challenges. The vintners of ASEAN continue to pursue their dream. Asia is known for its devotion to beer and whiskey, produced locally and inexpensively. So, who would want to drink locally produced wine, an unfamiliar beverage that costs more?


Wealthy Asian businessmen followed suit, desiring something new other than beer and whiskey. In Asia, wine made from grapes was, is and will continue to be a pricey pleasure. Every apparatus of production - including expertise - must be imported from Europe or other western countries. The quantity of grapes that can be harvested per area is less than in established wine-producing countries. As a result, production of one liter of wine can costs up to 4 USD, depending on grape vari-

NEW CLIENTELE ety, and with taxes imposed, can push the price of a bottle up to 15 USD at the market. Because most Asians are not yet familiar with wine, ASEAN vintners’ first clients were mainly tourists from Stockholm, San Francisco or Singapore, attracted by the exotic prospect of drinking locally produced wine, on their travels. They could often not believe that wine could be grown and bottled in Southeast Asian countries like Thailand or Myanmar.

Wine has hit the spotlight in Asia recently, and more locals have become curious and attracted to the glamour of wine, equating drinking wine with other popular western imports, like Hollywood movies, Rock &Roll Music, and mobile devices. Wine is on the rise in ASEAN. Increasing, culinary schools in Thailand include local wine pairing in their curricula, tourist agencies book trips and overnight stays at vineyards, and tastings are held in fine hotels in Bangkok, Yangon and Ho Chi Min City, as food and beverage managers understand the importance of highlighting locally grown wine. Wine enthusiasts – vintners, consumers and communicators often are convinced that South East Asia will be a competitive wine making and drinking region by the end of 2020.

CONNAISSEURS ARE THEIR LOVERS

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VINEYARD IS CELLAR IS BOTTLE IS IS CELLAR IS BOTTLE IS VINEYARD IS BOTTLE IS VINEYARD IS CELLAR 20


TROPICAL VITICULTURE & WINEMAKING

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Climate, vermins

and water supply

are not always best friends with the vine.

Monsoon is a burden a viticulteur has to face. Sunlight too regularly and funghus going crazy are in the way. Let‘s face it: A vine needs rest. In the old latitude they have winter. A peroid of three months where all living beings suffer from temperatures below zero Celsius. Dogs grow winterfur, humans wear heavy coats and heat their appatments and houses. The vine rests by ritiring in itself. After winter is over, the vineyards are pruned and ready to bloom. In South East Asia things are different. No dog grows a winterfur, nobody wears a wintercoat, let alone owns a heater. The vine must rest but cannot unless the vintner helps her.


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HARVEST FESTIVALS


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WHITE IS RED IS ROSÉ IS WH IS RED IS ROSÉ IS WHITE IS W IS ROSÉ IS WHITE IS WHITE IS 28


ALL THE GRAPES

HITE IS WHITE IS RED IS ROSÉ IS WHITE IS WHITE WHITE IS RED IS ROSÉ IS WHITE IS WHITE IS RED S RED IS ROSÉ IS WHITE IS WHITE IS RED IS ROSÉ 29


Personalities of their Own


A grape is a grape is a grape. None are alike. You have to study

all to understand their character. For more than two thousand years the vine made a carrer from its beginning in what is today Iran/Persia it has made a world tour to Greece, Rome, France, Spain and other European countries. For 150 years it has settled safely in the „New World“ US, Canada, Chile, Argentina, South Africa, Australia or New Zealand.

Not all the varieties love it everywhere. For the wine grapes to succed in South East Asia it took some 15 years to find out the right species and how to take care of them. A Vintner must understand the character, physics and the vine‘s demands for soil, water and temperature. Here we discuss the most common whites and reds cultivated on the continent.


C N A L B CHENIN ANC L B N O N G I V U A S

D R A B M O COL IGNON V U A S T E N R E B A C SHIRAZ

O L L I N A R P M E T . . . R E D L DORNFE

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REdS

OLD WORLD TASTE

Red wines are the Asians‘ favorite. They seem heavier, classier and more elegant than white wines. You can find out for yourself: More reds than whites are at display in any supermarket, wineshop or the wineries.They range in a higher price segment due to the higher effort in production. Young vines of Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz and Tempranillo are imported from Spain, France, Australia, US or Argentina to find the right clone for each individual vineyard.


After harvest red grapes are fermented with skins and seeds, and remain in the barrel with the mash for an extended period. They are usually served with heavier foods such as red meat, some reds can even be paired with chili, ginger and coriander.

LIGHT

Still fresh and bright in color, they smell of youth and taste of bright berries. Many rosé wines with up to about 12.5% alcohol are some examples.

MEDIUM

Alcohol and acid combine with the tannins, and they taste of dark fruit, plums or cherries. Most red wines belong to this group, because they’re uncomplicated, lighter, and contain up to 13% alcohol—the classics.

HEAVY

From 13.5% alcohol, body and aroma grow vigorously; you can taste the sun’s power on your palate. Oak barrels are often preferred for aging. Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinot Noir are prime examples. The flavor is like berry jam, dried mushrooms, woodland herbs and/or dark chocolate.


CABERNET SAUVIGNON “WILD HEAD“

Cabernet Sauvignon (CS), the king of all reds, can be found in almost any cuvée. A bit rough alone, he needs to partner with another variety, such as Merlot or Pinot. The first historical reference dates back to 17th Century France, when Cardinal Richelieu (of “Three Musketeers” fame) ordered the transport of thousands of Cabernet vines from Bordeaux up north to the Loire. CS is actually a natural crossing of Cabernet Franc and Sauvignon Blanc that occured in France during in the 1600’s. Translated into English as “Wild Head,” it is resistant to frost and makes no special demands on the soil. It finds comfort in small wooden barrels, and the resulting vanilla note does it good. The taste is reminiscent of cassis (black currant). While the “King” has only been approved in Germany since 1987, CS has spread around the world. In South East Asia we can find him in Thailand and Myanmar and Cambodia as well as in experimental vineyards in the north of Bali. 36

Taste: Black Cherry, Licorice and Black Pepper all wrapped together with a dash of Vanilla. The wines tend to have a little bit less tannin and acidity but also have more alcohol, ranging from 13.5-15.5%

Leaf: Medium-sized, roundish, usually three lobes, with young and often hairy leaves. Grape: Medium to large, tight clusters, cone-shaped, dark blue to purple berries, thin and vulnerable skin.


SYRAH/SHIRAZ

PERSIAN POWER

Taste: Blueberry, Plum, Pepper, Chocolate, Tobacco Wines are full-bodied with bold fruit flavors and subtle tannin that drops off into a smooth finish. Syrah is commonly blended with Grenache and Mourvèdre to create the red Rhône blend.

Leaf: Medium-sized, roundish, usually five lobes, colour varies regionally. Grape: Medium-sized, tight clusters, and cylindrical. The berries are oval and dark blue to black.

Legends of Syrah‘s (SZ) origins come from one of its homonyms - Shiraz, an old city in Iran, produced the wellknown Shirazi wine, legends claim the Syrah grape originated in Shiraz and then was brought to Rhône. In the 1830‘s SZ was introduced in Australia and soon thereafter conquered the entire southern hemisphere. Due to their concentrated flavours and high tannin content, many premium Syrah wines are at their best after some considerable bottle aging. In exceptional cases, this may be 15 years or longer. Less-extracted styles may be enjoyed young for their lively red and blueberry characters and smooth tannin structure. SZ has been widely used as a blending grape in the red wines due to its fleshy fruit mid-palate, balancing the weaknesses of other varieties and resulting in a „complete“ wine. Syrah has one of the highest recommended wine serving temperatures at 18 °C (65 °F). Cultivated in Thailand and Myanmar 37


FRUIT IS MINERAL IS TANN MINERAL IS TANNIN IS FR IS TANNIN IS FRUIT IS MIN 38


TASTING TIME

NIN IS FRUIT IS MINERAL IS TANNIN IS FRUIT IS RUIT IS MINERAL IS TANNIN IS FRUIT IS MINERAL NERAL IS TANNIN IS FRUIT IS MINERAL IS TANNIN 39


Eyes: Look Nose: Smell Mouth: Taste

Nearly all experienced tasters will tell you in unsison that tasting is very difficult as it takes years of experience and an unbeatable memory. This is not true, but it defenitively helps to taste as much as you can. One can basically taste all the wines at a winery, some open bottles in a wine shop and more or less never in a supermarket. On the following pages we have summed up the most common wine vocabulary for colour, smell and taste. Apricots and peaches are omitted in favour of mango and papaya.


All Your Senses


GLOSSARY ACIDITY Wines with high acidity are tart and zesty. Red wines generally have a lighter color and more tart characteristics (versus “round”). White wines are often described with characteristics similar to lemon or lime juice. ANGULAR An angular wine is like putting a triangle in your mouth – it hits you in specific places with high impact and not elsewhere. It’s like getting punched in the arm in the same place over and over again. An angular wine also has high acidity. AUSTERE This is a very unfriendly wine. It hits your mouth and then turns it inside out. It usually means the wine has very high acidity and very little fruit flavors. An austere wine is not fruit-forward nor opulent. BARNYARD This means the wine smells like poo. It’s never used anymore describing a wine, unless the wine writer is attempting to dig that wine an early grave. BIG Big describes a wine with massive flavor in your mouth that takes up all sections of your mouth and tongue. A big wine is not necessarily a fruit-forward wine, it can also mean that it has big tannins. 42

BRIGHT Bright wines are higher in acidity and make your mouth water. BUTTERY A wine with such characteristics has been aged in oak and generally is rich and less acidity. Often has a cream-like texture that hits the middle of your tongue almost like oil and a smooth finish. CASSIS The least fruit-like of all dark fruits. When writers mention cassis, they are often thinking of the seedy and gritty character of actual black currants. CHARCOAL A wine that is described as tasting like charcoal tastes gritty, it’s usually dry (with higher tannins) and has this rustic flavor. Charcoal is often associated with a similar characteristic: pencil lead (but less refined). CHEWY TANNINS When you take a sip of wine with chewy tannins, it dries out the interior of your mouth so that you “chew” or clean the tannins out of the insides of your mouth. CIGAR BOX Cigar box flavors are hinting toward sweetness and cedar-wood with an abundance of smoke. This is a super positive and desirable characteristic that wine writers love to use when they find a wine they wish they could just slowly sip on a leather chair.


Š winefolly 43


MOUNTAIN IS VALLEY IS PLAINS IS IS VALLEY IS PLAINS IS MOUNTAI IS PLAINS IS MOUNTAIN IS VALLE 44


ALL THE REGIONS

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It was thought that “real wine“ can only grow between

30 and 50 degrees of latitude. Maverick wine-makers have taught us that serious viticulture can be accomplished at 13 degrees latitude, a fact that the Western World has always doubted. Robert Parker, the world‘s most famous wine taster, has rated Thai wines up to 87 points, and four Thai wines have made it into the Top 12 of the best Asian wines in the Australian “Wine Selector“ magazine. Myanmar and Bali wines are offered in nearly every mid to high-end hotel in tourist destinations and well assorted food stores and wineshops in larger cities.


The New Latitude


KINGDOM OF

THAILAND

FORMERLY KINGDOM OF SIAM



ALCIDINI




GRANMONTE



PB VALLEY



SIAM WINERY

both © siamwinery


SILVER LAKE



VILLAGE FARM



where


PROVINCE OF BALI

INDONESIA



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HATTEN WINERY



SABA BAY



where


KINGDOM OF

CAMBODIA

FORMERLY DEMOCRATIC REPUBLIC OF KAMPUCHEA



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PHNOM BANAN WINERY



where


REPUBLIC OF THE UNION OF

MYANMAR

FORMERLY BURMA



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AYTHAYA

MYANMAR 1st VINEYARD



RED MOUNTAIN ESTATE



WINE IS SODA IS JUICE IS WINE IS S IS SODA IS JUICE IS WINE IS SODA SODA IS JUICE IS WINE IS SODA IS J 84


LONG DRINKS

SODA IS JUICE IS WINE IS SODA IS JUICE IS WINE A IS JUICE IS WINE IS SODA IS JUICE IS WINE IS JUICE IS WINE IS SODA IS JUICE IS WINE IS SODA 85


Trends come

and go, appearing out of nowhere and vanish without notice.

Not so the bars and cocktail longues. It all started - as many trends do - in the US when in prohibition times producing, importing, dealing with and drinking alcohol was completely forbidden and only dared to be drunk at home or in private clubs (run often by the mafia or such organisations). These days are over but the institution remains. We have visited a few trendy bars in Asia and with the know how of local bartenders have created an array of new long drinks. They are all built around Asian wines and local ingredients. Clever and elegant, surprising but simple for all to reproduce. Cheers! All recipes serve two.


Local Liquids

BANGKOK BLOOD and MANDALAY MOON created and mixed by Suriya “Addy“ Wanna (Blind Tiger, Yangon, Myanmar)

SANURA SLINGER and LOVINA LUSH created and mixed by Lesmana Yasa (Bamboo Bar, Prama Hotel, Sanura, Bali)

BANGKOK


BANGKOK BLAST 200 ml 50 ml 50 ml 25 ml 1/2

red wine cashew syrup fresh orange juice fresh lime juice egg white

Mix all ingredients in a shaker and mix to foam the eggwhite. Add icecubes, shake again and pour through a strainer. Decorate with orange cest or slice. Wine suggestion: Light Merlot or young Shiraz. 88


LOVINA LUSH 200 ml white wine 50 ml passion fruit syrup 25 ml sugar syrup 1/2 eggwhite Angustura bitters Ice cubes Mix all ingredients except Angustura in a shaker and mix to foam the eggwhite. Add icecubes, shake again and pour through a strainer. Top with Angustura. Wine suggestion: Sauvignoon Blanc. 89


SOY IS CHILI IS CILANTRO IS SOY IS CHILI I IS CHILI IS CILANTRO IS SOY IS CHILI IS C CHILI IS CILANTRO IS SOY IS CHILI IS CILAN 90


PAIRING FOOD AND WINE

IS CILANTRO IS SOY IS CHILI IS CILANTRO IS SOY CILANTRO IS SOY IS CHILI IS CILANTRO IS SOY IS NTRO IS SOY IS CHILI IS CILANTRO IS SOY IS CHILI 91


SALTY

SOEUETR SW SPICY

I M A UM

S E I P E C E R FIVE N E M COM

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SPICY - SWEET - SALTY - SOUR - UMAMI


Who said it was

not possible to pair Asian wine

with Asian food? We know that Asian people like to have all the meal‘s courses on the table at once - unlike Westerners who eat them after each other. It seems to be impossible to find a single wine to fit all these tastes. The use of heavy seasoning (chili, lime, soy or fish sauce) seem to often win over sensitive tastes of elegant or even fragile wine aromas. Here we present a number of Asian dishes that DO go together well with Asian wines. They will do justice to the tastes of the food and respect the value of the various wines served with them.


SPICY


Red Curry with Roasted Duck Roasted Duck and Red Curries are favorites in almost all of Asia‘s cuisines, to make this a vegetarian dish, use tofu instead and let simmer a bit longer. Even though it seems to be quite effortful, after preparation is done, the actual cooking happens really fast. Garnish with sweet basil and chili. Spicy is THE challenge for winepairing! INGREDIENTS 1 coriander root 2 cloves of garlic 1/4 tsp ground roasted cumin and coriander seeds 1 1/2 tsp red curry paste 60 g sliced roast duck 40 g pinapple pieces 2 sliced cherry tomatoes 6 grapes 2 tsp vegetable oil 1 cup coconut milk 1 kaffir lime in small pieces 15 leaves sweet basil 1 big red chili sliced

HOW TO Pound garlic and coriander root in mortar, add to chili paste with ground seeds. Heat oil to medium heat in sauce pan, add paste. Stir fry for a minute. Add coconut milk at three dashes, boil. Add pineapple, grapes, tomato and duck, lime and chili, sugar and fish sauce. Let simmer for three minutes. Turn off eat and add basil. Serve in bowl. Preparation 25 min Cooking 15 min SEASONING Fish sauce and sugar

WINE RECOMMENDATION Due to the overboarding HOW TO tastes a strong wine from the oak barrel is suggested. Try to find a Syrah, not more than three years old and serve chilled. For those who find chilled reds a sacrilege, wait a few minutes, all wines get warmer by themselves.


SWEET


UMAMI


ASSOCIATION IS INTERVIE IS ASSOCIATION IS INTER FAIR IS ASSOCIATION IS IN 100


GLOBAL EXPERIENCE

EW IS FAIR IS ASSOCIATION IS INTERVIEW IS FAIR RVIEW IS FAIR IS ASSOCIATION IS INTERVIEW IS NTERVIEW IS FAIR IS ASSOCIATION IS INTERVIEW 101



HONG KONG WINE AND SPIRITS FAIR


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ASIAN WINE PRODUCERS ASSOCIATION


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A STRONG UNIT Due to the lack of laws about viticulture and vinification in South East Asia, nearly all liquids could be named „wine“. No speifications or limitations on which grapes to grow, no classifications like dry or sweet no restrictions on when wines shall be released etc. The only rules the different states set are about the taxation for selling the product. In Thailand at the moment 380 %.

HELP AND SHARE

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A general health warning is planned in the near future and shall work as the counterpart of cigarette packages.) So this leads to the remarkable situation that only 1 % of added fruit syrup classifies the liquid as fruit juice and the taxes will be significantly lower. All of these and more different aspects five asian wine producers had in mind when they decided to establish their own rules for


THE CHARTER From vine to wine, Asian Wine Producers are wineries across Asia which own or manage vineyards and produce grape wine from locally grown grapes.

VISION AND MISSION Promote recognition of Asian Wines, Asia as a respected wine region. Present Asian Wine Producers to the world of wines. Allow Asian Wine Producers to exchange and obtain global industry input. Create awareness and enhance the image of Asian Wine Producers Association, both in their respective domestic and in international markets.

quality in vineyard and winery. With the assistance of legendary Australian wine expert Dr. Denis Gastin the Asian Wine Producers Association (AWPA) saw its formal launch and inaugural promotional activities at the Hong Kong Wine & Spirits Fair in November 2014. The AWPA is established as a collaborative alliance of like-minded wine producers with common goals. Meeting them has convinced me of their seriosity, sustainability and resilience.

CREATE AND PROMOTE

Members: Ch창teau Mercier - Japan Gran Monte - Thailand Grover Zampa - India Hatten Winery - Bali/Indonesia

Promote Asian Wine Producers Association area as a wine tourism regions. Create an Asian owner, winemakers and vineyard managers forum, and a space for Asian wine marketers to share and exchange. http://asianwinesassociation.com/ www.facebook.com/AsianWineProducersAssociation

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TRAVELING WINEMAKER



the FUTURE is BRIGHT


Publisher name Street address City, State zip code website address Photographs © 2012 Photographer Introduction © 2012 Name of person who wrote Introduction This edition © 2012 Publisher or photographer name All rights reserved. No part of this book may be transmitted or reproduced in any form by any means without permission from the publisher, excepting brief excerpts for use in publicity and reviews. Editor: Name Designer: Name First Edition 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Library of Congress Number 0000000 ISBN 000-0-0000000-0-0


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