magazine of the amsterdam fashion institute
liesbeth in �t hout
TEA WITH VIKTOR & ROLF
FASHION WEEK UNDERDOG masters of styling
7th edition: 2010/2011
stories on creative life PSYCHEDELIC PORTRAITS
the netherlands/belgium €10
six degrees of fashion
There are times when all that you crave is comfort and familiarity. For instance, when you’re in Dusseldorf after a long haul flight from Melbourne, and discover that you’re luggage is on a holiday of it’s own in Manilla. Enter the leather rucksack. Your worn, kicked about, carry-on sack of god-knows-what is now your new best friend. It doubles as a pillow, something to hug whilst sleeping in the departures lounge, and like a good friend, you can always rely on it containing a stray extra euro when you need it most.
THE WORLD OF STEFANIE photography by stefanie suchy
“Why record the obvious? It’s all about the small moments in life, that you see everyday and forget to capture, because you don’t realize how special they are until you freeze them.” Stefanie Suchy Welcome to the world of Stefanie. While Odd questions in text, she speaks in pictures.
What does fashion mean to you?
with advertisers that we have to work on. If we were busy doing other things the quality of the posts would go down. So we have to take it as a full time job. That is what I have been trying to do for the past year and a half, which has really benefited the overall quality of the blog.
odd: So you consider blogging your occupation rather than just your hobby? Dario: Well yeah, it has turned into that, for the time being at least. I really don’t know how long I will continue it for, but at the very least I will get great connections out of it. If I want to switch to something else in the fashion industry it might be an easy transition because people know my website and my name. There are people who can live from blogging and I don’t know if that will be me or not. At the very least I think it will act as a really helpful tool for getting another job in the future. Blogging is sort of like a university degree for the fashion industry. odd: How do you see the future of blogging? Is it just a passing fad or is it a lasting medium? Dario: I think it will last but they are going to continue to change and develop. Maybe we will see more online media sites rather than just blogs. Already there are bloggers who have assistants and interns. It is turning into a real media platform rather than just a journal. odd: I saw on facebook that you started a new blog called dead pop stars? Why did you start that? Dario: That is more of a personal thing. I think people tend to think of a blog as something that is
meant for the public. I’m in no way hiding this blog, it is intended for the public but I have no expectation of it becoming a big thing. It doesn’t need to be popular to show someone and have them respect it. For instance if I wanted to apply for a job in the music industry, I could show them this blog. Even though no one may read it they could still be impressed by what I was doing. odd: So is music a big inspiration? Dario: Yeah, it is much more interesting to me than fashion is because I don’t regularly read many fashion blogs or magazines. It is music that I am more interested in. odd: What do you see yourself doing in the future? Something to do with music? Dario: No, I don’t think anything to do with music because it is more of just a personal interest. I don’t know what I see myself doing. I absolutely have no idea. It is all so tenuous at the moment. What I am doing right now is all going really well, so I am just going to continue and when I get an opportunity to do something else that I like, through the blog most likely, I will go with that. There are some days when I think I should just give it up entirely and go back to studying chemistry, but I don’t think that will happen. Who knows if Dario will end up in a top job in fashion or if he will go back to pursuing his high school dream of working in chemistry. Whatever happens he will have a happy life filled with interesting friends because for Dario that’s what life is about!
“I know I’m not saving lives with my blog. People could look at it as being a bit frivolous, which at the end of the day I think it is. It is something I enjoy doing though”
Jean Paul, Paris
Collective Consciousness by randi bergman & meghan hutchens
Thomas F/W 2010 Collection
The collective consciousness of the creative class is one of the fashion industry’s biggest mysteries. A shared state-of-mind between artists, designers, editors and creators can likely be linked through common influences, environments and life experiences.
odd: What do you think is particularly strong about the up-and-coming scene in your city? Do you think you can lean on anyone else’s creativity to become greater as a whole? Drew & Michael: Any innovative Torontobased artist carries an advantage. It is easy to stand apart from ‘the rest’ here. It is a lack of inspiration. Toronto is not a fashion capital. It is a very receptive place. I do believe there is a collective of individuals in Toronto trying to make
a change, and I believe this September will be ground-breaking for Toronto fashion. We tend to lean on other artists for support as opposed to designers. Nadia and Cami: There is definitely a well-established local design scene here, although at this point our label exists solely online, so most of our community is based there too. We’re lucky to have found friends that appreciate and support our work through the internet. In terms of supportive creative collectives, we can definitely vouch for this existing in the online
fashion community. Veronica: The creative people I’ve met in London are extremely energetic and love to collaborate with other passionate people. London is a diverse and open place and I’ve felt a very strong sense of collective living and working while in this city. Most of my friends are very different in style but unified through their ideals and optimism. Merel and Kim: Hell yes, we need each other badly; we have a long way to go. Together we learn much faster, learn from each other’s mistakes and each other’s experiences. As
a group we create a larger platform and a greater voice, so everyone must hear us at least once in their life!
Merel Wicker and Kim Leemans are the Amsterdambased design duo behind LEW. The two met while at the Rietveld Art Academy and have since embarked on seven arty collections.
odd: Why do you think the same trends emerge from completely separate designers? Do you believe in a collective artistic consciousness?
Drew and Michael Thomas are the Toronto-based design duo from the label THOMAS. The two launched their second classic, yet grungy and modern collection together for A/W 2010.
Veronica: I’ve been working at a trend forecasting and research company for the past few months and the first thing you realize is that fashion is just another part of a culture being influenced by bigger events. Creative people are especially sensitive to shifts like this; to changing moods and the visual images that come with it Merel and Kim: What happens on the catwalk works its way down to the streets and what happens on the streets makes its way to the catwalk. We all live in the same world, with the same needs and patterns and media. In the end we all want to belong to a group, to be able to feel safe and understood so that we can calculate the next step...we are prepared and have the clogs ready when we need them! Nadia and Cami: It’s like a train ride, the train keeps moving forward and more people get on board. The view from the train is the same for everyone; it’s just that each person sees it differently and interprets it their own way. Some might step off and take a different route or catch a different train. In the end though, each ride has a single destination, a final outcome. This is where the trend is born. Of course there is a collective consciousness - we share the same planet and the internet is constantly evolving and influencing the ease with
Nadia Napreychikov and Cami James are the creators of DI$COUNT -not your conventional young fashion label. Graduating from RMIT in Melbourne in 2009, they are currently based across the Asia Pacific region. DI$COUNT is an online brand, a dialogue, a strategy, a transformation, a design, a blog, a motion picture, a label, a personality, a website, an emotion and an evolution. Veronica So is Silicon Valley born and raised, Central Saint Martin educated and now a London based tech-nerd-comeeditor upstart who has also launched her own magazine L_A_N.
puck landewe It’s amazing how designers use the same sources for inspiration
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lars tibben Duh, ever heard of the internet?
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which this consciousness is accessed. Drew & Michael: There is a small insurgence of designers right now who are designing trendlessly and fluidly. When you stop designing with trends in mind, two artists who are very far apart can still come up with something quite similar. odd: What do you think are the main factors which will influence how you get ahead in your career? Nadia and Cami: Being lucky enough to do what you love with absolute conviction and never compromising your beliefs and dreams is the easiest way for you to feel ahead. You have to realize that every day you spend working towards your dream is actually a day that you are living your dream. Drew and Michael: Creative expression with strict focus. We believe in building on previous collections, perfecting patterns, until we are satisfied. Stay true to your vision regardless of the criticism, never abandon it. Otherwise you are pretending and you will never be successful. Veronica: I’m most interested in meeting creative people with their own unique vision. I like doing bespoke research for fashion designers, art directing look books and editorials of their work, collaborating and inspiring them to achieve even more interesting and exciting outcomes. This provides the best and most satisfying rewards for me at this point. Merel and Kim: Keep going, keep focused, stay critical, keep reflecting, don’t forget to be practical and organized and of course, try not to be too serious.
PSYCHEDELIC PORTRAITS photography by sanja marusic styling by odd
Blouse Eva & Delia.
Dress & bra Individuals, underwear Chantal Thomass, shoes Ash.
CHARACTER CAMERAS by marieke gras
My name is Marieke Gras and I have an addiction. I’m an analog junkie. In a time where everything is turning digital, I am deserting technology and embracing the past. I started analogue photography to learn more about photography techniques. With a digital camera I found I was less involved. If I didn’t like the picture, I just pressed ‘delete’ instead of seeing how I could improve the image. At some point, I got an analogue SLR camera from my dad. Well, ‘got’ is actually not the right word. I just took it, along with the rest of his photography equipment. Sorry, dad! Meanwhile, I have already collected 15 analog cameras through eBay and flea markets. Below a few of my favourite cameras. 1. minolta XE-5 from 1975 This is my dad’s camera. A SLR, where you can adjust the shutter and diaphragm. You have the opportunity for auto exposure and you can change lenses. Technically, this is a handy camera. All the things that I learned on this unit, I can use again on digital. With this camera I learnt about several kind of films, including DIA film. What I like about DIA are the awesome color effects (especially with a film that is long past its expiry date) you can achieve through ‘crossing’ the film during developing. ‘Cross processing’ is intentionally developing film in the wrong chemicals. It’s an intuitive, creative way of photographing.
2. minolta XE-5 from 1975 The Diana F+ is not that old. The original Diana’s were legendary in the 1960s because of the dreamy, shiny lo-fi images they produced. In the beginning of the 1990s the Lomographic Society reproduced them due to renewed popularity with amateur photographers. When I discovered lomography, I immediately liked it. Lomography’s motto - don’t think, just shoot! - is all about spontaneity. I also like the pinhole function on the Diana. Pinholes are picturesque photos. Remove the plastic lens and you have an opening - a very small diaphragm - which allows you to photograph without a lens using longer exposure times. 3. dacora dignette Produced in the 1960s in Germany. When I bought this camera on eBay, I didn’t know anything about it. I just liked the vintage feel. It’s a camera with a big history. It’s very easy to use - autofocus, a few options in aperture, subjects and composition… just start shooting! 4. polaroid spectra Polaroid is instant fun. I love Polaroids. The aim is to capture a spontaneous moment, and then the moment after. To be able to hold a peice of the immediate past – something that happened two minutes ago - makes it so special to me. Polaroid photography is not about technique. There’s no aperture or shutter priority. All cameras mentioned here are vintage. You can see this in the pictures as well. The camera plays a role, but it is merely a tool. After you choose the right sort of camera, many more factors come into play to realize the final result. Location, model, subject, composition, film, shutter and diaphragm or aperture opening. The most important element is the personal and individual eye. To me, photography is emotion. Working with vintage analog models makes this happen.
m i r t h e v a n d e r s c h o o t More photography from Marieke on www.photographybymarieke.blogspot.com 10.15am • Report