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DESIGNER FILE

SPRING SUMMER 2017

Ready-t o-Wear FASH 110-01

DANIELLE OCHOA


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DESIGNER FILE

INDEX ANNA SUI 04 ASHISH 08 BALENCIAGA 12 DIOR 16 KIM SEO RYONG 20 MARCHESA 24 MARY KATRANTZOU 28 ROBERTO CAVALLI 32 TORY BURCH 36 VALENTINO 40 CREDITS 44


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S/S READY-T0-WEAR 2017

on t he ru nway in NEW YORK MILAN PARIS LONDON SEOUL


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DESIGNER FILE

A nna Sui

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Originally from the suburbs of Detriot, Anna Sui built her success story up from being accepted into Parsons her senior year of high school, to designing for many sportwear companies, to founding her own brand that has a cult following to this day. Anna Sui’s style stems from her love of Rock n Rock and vintage details. Since launching Anna Sui, she has branched out into the cosmetics market as well as having successful shows season after season. ANNA SUI FOUNDER/CREATIVE DIRECTOR


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S/S READY-T0-WEAR 2017

COLLECTION OVERVIEW Titled Miss American Pie, Sui’s S/S 17 collection draws from the many motifs of American Folk Art and is heavily pop-culture Americana. Sui notes that she visited the American Folk Art Museum and saw an inspiring exhibit full of hand-carved wooden objects, trade-signs and circus wagons. She used these regalia in her collection as iconograpic references to the americana spirit. The collection boasts colorful prints, cowboy hats, leather fringe and airbrushed Vans.


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DESIGNER FILE

PRINT&PATTERN - Retro Floral Mix & Match - Strawberry Repeat Print - Vivid Placement Prints - Americana Deco Prints

FABRIC&TRIM - Black Leather - Fringe - Deco-print Satin - Lace trim


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KEY ITEMS - Leather Jackets - Letterman Jackets - Engineered Print Design

DETAILS - Airbrushed Vans - Platform Sandals - Leather Cowboy Hats - Cat-Eye Glasses

COLORS - Powder Blue - Mint - Moss - Green Tea - Bold Reds and Blues

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A shish

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ASHISH GUPTA FOUNDER/CREATIVE DIRECTOR

BIO

Ashish Gupta was born in Delhi, India and studied Fine Art in his home country before moving to London to get his MA from Central St. Martins. Ashish has shown at London Fashion Week since 2005 and has won the prestigious New Generation Award three times. Known for his couture-minded craftsmanship, juxtiposition of sportswear and highglamour and often political and socially conscious collections, Ashish paves the way for a new era of risktaking desingers.


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COLLECTION OVERVIEW Ashish Gupta emgrated from Delhi to London in 1996: in a time of racially fueld hate and increased discrimination due to Brexit, this collection celebrates his Indian culture and it's importance to British society. At the show Gupta walked out in a T-shirt with Immigrant printed front and center. This collection incorporates the intricacies of traditional saris and sherwanis alongside sportswear and plays on Bollywood dress. The diversity of models, including many black, Indian, and mixed-race faces supported the collection's plea for positivity and inclusion of all cultures.


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DESIGNER FILE

FABRIC&TRIM - Sequin Lame - Indigo-washed Denim - Applique Trims - Heavily-Embellished Sheers

COLORS - Gold - Reds and Pinks - Neutral Tones


S/S READY-T0-WEAR 2017

KEY ITEMS - Graphic T-Shirts - Embroidered Full-Skirts - Appliqued Denim - All-over Sparkle Trousers

PRINT&PATTERN - Variations on Traditional Indian Patterns - Fully Embroidered Prints - Traditoinal Embroideries - Beaded Paisley

DETAILS - Large Septum Rings - Indian Crowns - Bangles - Ankle Jewelry

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DESIGNER FILE

Balencia ga

DEMNA GVASALIA CREATIVE DIRECTOR

03 BIO

Georgian Demna Gvasalia studied at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts and was newly named Creative Director at Balenciaga after leaving as a designer at Louis Vuitton. Gvasalia also is the founder and Creative Director of his streetwear brand Vetements which has been making waves in the fashion world.


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S/S READY-T0-WEAR 2017

COLLECTION OVERVIEW Gvasalia's sophomore collection at Balenciaga hints towards the 1980s with the "working woman" shoulder silhouette, large leather totes and oversized, menswear inspired suit jackets and trench coats. To many critics surprise, the collection boasted spandex in an array of different prints and electric solids. The collection also was paired with large puffer vests and rain coats, suggesting fuction and practicality.


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DESIGNER FILE

FABRIC&TRIM - Spandex - Suiting - Leather

COLORS - Monochromatics - Bright Pinks - Bright Purples - Oranges and Greens

DETAILS - Spandex "shoe-legging hybrid" boots - Large Tote Bags - Hooded Trenches - Brooches

PRINT&PATTERN - Retro-inspired Florals - Hand-Drawn Vegetation - Stripe Varations - Subtle Plaids


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S/S READY-T0-WEAR 2017

KEY ITEMS - Spandex Legging-Boots - Oversized Suit Jackets - Oversize Tote Bags


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DESIGNER FILE

Christ ia nDior

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MARIA GRAZIA CHIURI CREATIVE DIRECTOR

BIO Maria Grazia Chiuri studied at Istituto Europeo di Design in Rome and is an Italian designer. She was formerly head of Valentino alongside her partner Pierpaolo Piccoioli for over 15 years. Chiuri debuts at Christian Dior as the first woman to be named as Creative Director.


S/S READY-T0-WEAR 2017

COLLECTION OVERVIEW Chiuri's debut collection brought up the notion of "femininity" and what it means in our present time. Inspired by Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie's We Should All Be Feminists the collection's message is that there is no one type of woman in todays world. Using embroidery and graphic tees the posititvity seeps from every piece as it encourages women to embrace their own femininity according to their own guidelines, not society's.

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DESIGNER FILE

COLORS - Black & White - Bold Reds - Flesh Tones

FABRIC&TRIM - Tulle - Lace Applique - Dainty Embroidery - Suiting - Various Leathers

DETAILS - Embroidered Phrases - Calf-high Boots - Black Chokers - Graphic Prints

PRINT&PATTERN - Polka Dots - Embroidered Florals - Placement Print Motifs - Quilting


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S/S READY-T0-WEAR 2017

KEY ITEMS - "We Should All Be Feminists" T-Shirt - Heavily Decorated Tulle Skirts - Bustier Cocktail Dresses


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DESIGNER FILE


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S/S READY-T0-WEAR 2017

Kim Seo R yon g

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KIM SEO RYONG FOUNDER/CREATIVE DIRECTOR

BIO Kim Seo Ryong is a South Korean designer, known for his clean meanswear and tailored suits. Seo Ryong debuted his first collection in 1996 and has since built up a loyal customer base and has dressed many south korean celebrities such as CL and Jay Park along with being featured in GQ, Allure Korea, and Dazed Magazine.


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KEY ITEMS - Metallic Shorts - Wide-Leg Trousers - All-over Print Suits

PRINT&PATTERN - Indigo-Inspired Motifs - Hand-Painted Florals - Placement Prints - Metallic Stripes

DESIGNER FILE


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S/S READY-T0-WEAR 2017

FABRIC&TRIM - Metallics - Silk - Suiting - Cotton Suiting

DETAILS - Flip-flop Sandals - V-Neck Silhouette - Bare Chest

COLORS - Metallics - Bronze & Silver - Matte Black - Rich Reds - Heathered Gray

003405 Floral tight tops


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M archesa

DESIGNER FILE

BIO

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Marchesa was co-founded in 2004 by ex-models Keren Craig and Georgina Chapman, the brand focuses on eclectic eveneing wear. Neiman Marcus was the first to call out the brand's future success with now a bridal line, evening bags, shoes and lots of press. Marchesa's feminine aesthetic focuses on luxury and exquisette craftsmanship as well as pushing the envelope for innovations in fabric manipulation. GEORGINA CHAPMAN & KEREN CRAIG CO-FOUNDERS/CO-CREATIVE DIRECTORS


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COLLECTION OVERVIEW The Marchesa S/S 2017 Collection feels like an early morning with its colors emulating that of a sunrise. The gowns boasted elegance but kept a subtle color pallete with lots of slight rose tones and lilacs intermingling. Chiffon and tulle were used eloquently and 3-D florals decorated the fabrics as well as fringed tassels and intricate embroideries. On the runway the dresses looked translucent and could fit into any princess's fairytale.


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DESIGNER FILE

K

- Layered

- Ombre

FABRIC&T - Tulle - Chiffon

- 3-D Printed F - Metallics

DETAILS

- Minimal Ma

- Open-toe Sim

- Fresh Glowin

PRINT&PATTERN

COLORS

- Embroidered Patterns

- Pastel Tones

- Beaded Repeat Motifs

- Rose Gold - Blush - Lilac - Silver


S/S READY-T0-WEAR 2017

KEY ITEMS

d Chiffon Gowns - Tassle Gowns

e Chiffon Gowns

TRIM

Florals

akeup

mple Heel

ng Skin

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DESIGNER FILE

M ary K at ra ntz ou

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MARY KATRANTZOU FOUNDER/CREATIVE DIRECTOR

BIO Mary Katrantzou was born in Athens and studied at the Rhode Island school of design and finished with an MA from Central Saint Martin's focusing on print design. She became interested in womenswear due to her experiementations with print placement. Her collections are thematic in nature and reflect a polished design aesthetic influenced by interiors, landscapes, vintage items, and fine art.


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COLLECTION OVERVIEW Mary Katrantzou's S/S 17 Collection was inspired by her birth country of Greece. Greek historical motifs are found throughout the collection and she used her unique connection with the culture to create Minoan prints and frescoinspired color spreads. Greek vases and plates that historically were painted with silhouettes heavily inspired her print work throughout the dresses, pants and tunics.


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DESIGNER FILE

FABRIC&TRIM - Printed Cottons - Printed Silks - Swarovski Elements

DETAILS - Black socks with Heels - Print-matched Shoes - Bold Print Mixing

COLORS - Moss Green - Blood Orange - Hot Pink

PRINT&PATTERN - Minoan Motif Prints - Engineered Placement Prints - Fresco Prints - Architectural Prints


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S/S READY-T0-WEAR 2017

KEY ITEMS - Swarovski Crysal Floral Piece - Maxi Peplum Skirts - Layered Printed Turtlenecks


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COLLECTION OVERVIEW An all but subtle hint to the late 1960s and early 1970s, Roberto's S/S 17 Collection is full of patchwork details, flare pants and flowy dresses and lots of embroidery. Inspiration was drawn from Navajo blankets, and other American textiles. Leather and fringe are other textiles featured in the print mixed collection.

DESIGNER FILE

R


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Robert o Cavalli BIO Roberto Cavalli was born in Florence, Tuscany and studied textile print at the local Art Institute before getting discovered by Italian design factories. He made a name for himself in the 1970s when he invented a printing technique for leather and introduced sandblasted denim. His brand was taken over by his son for a short period of time, Roberto returned to the role of Creative Directer in 2014. ROBERTO CAVALLI FOUNDER/CREATIVE DIRECTOR


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DESIGNER FILE

PRINT&PATTERN - Interior Florals - Colored Stripes - Navajo Inspired Embroideries

COLORS - Matte Black - Deep Burgandy - Lavendar - Indigo Washes


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S/S READY-T0-WEAR 2017

FABRIC&TRIM - Denim - Leather - Chiffon - Ornamented Lace

DETAILS - Tassels - Skinny Flare Trousers - Chokers

KEY ITEMS - Striped Flare Trousers - Layered Chiffon Dresses - Embroidered Tunics


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DESIGNER FILE

Tory Burch

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BIO

TORY BURCH FOUNDER/CREATIVE DIRECTOR

Tory Burch graduated from UPenn with a degree in Art History, she moved to New York City and worked at Zoran, Vera Wang, Polo Ralph Lauren and Loewe in the years that followed. She launched her own label in 2004 and has built a fashion empire in under a decade. Her "preppy-boho" style has been very commercially succesful and she has branced out into shoes, handbags, watches and even home decor in her over 150 stores worldwide.


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S/S READY-T0-WEAR 2017

COLLECTION OVERVIEW Burch noted that the theme of this collection centered around nostalgia. The west coast vibes of paisley and bright florals as well as the Kelly green cardigan was a nod to her perents' era. Other looks include lace-up suede, moccassins, large pearls andbatik-printed twill.


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DESIGNER FILE

KEY ITEMS - Patterned Blazers - Bra Tops - Waist-Tie Maxi Skirt

PRINT&PATTERN - Batik Prints - Large-Scale Florals - Shape Repeats - Prarie Prints


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S/S READY-T0-WEAR 2017

FABRIC&TRIM - Cotton Twill - Printed Chiffon - Suede - Macremè

DETAILS - Sneakers - Moccassins - Mary-Jane Flats - Large Pearl Necklaces

COLORS - Oranges and Yellows - Navy - Kelly Green

003405 Floral tight tops


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DESIGNER FILE

Valent ino

BIO

Pierpaolo Piccioli studied at Rome's Istituto Europeo di Design and started working for Fendi in the accesories department. He later worked for Red Valentino as an accesories desinger before being appointed to creative director alongside Maria Grazia Chiuri in 2008. Pierpaolo and Chiuri won the CFDA International award in 2015. PIERPAOLO PICCIOLI CREATIVE DIRECTOR

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S/S READY-T0-WEAR 2017

COLLECTION OVERVIEW For Piccioli's debut solo collection for Valentino, he was inspired by medieval art and the silhouette of the 1970s with flowy dresses and hippy florals. Hieronymus Bosch's The Garden of Earthly Delights gave the collection its interesting gardens and bird scenery and fantasy landscapes.


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DESIGNER FILE

COLORS - Dusty Rose - Poison-Green - Bold Reds - Coral

DETAILS - Velvet Sandals - Suede Block Heels - Mini-size Satchels - Fresh faces

PRINT&PATTERN - Scenic Placement Prints - Hand-Drawn Vegetation - Bird Prints - Floral Embroideries


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S/S READY-T0-WEAR 2017

FABRIC&TRIM - Leather - Velvet - Silk -- Lace Trim

KEY ITEMS - Unique Handbags - Placement Prints - Handkerchief-hemmed Dresses


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DESIGNER FILE

TOP LOOKS

(Left to Right) Anna Sui Valentino Roberto Cavalli

(Left to Right) Ashish Kim Seo Ryong Marchesa

(Left to Right) Balenciaga Mary Katrantzou Tory Burch


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S/S READY-T0-WEAR 2017

CREDITS RUNWAY IMAGES COURTESY OF VOGUE.COM/RUNWAY ADDITIONAL BACKSTAGE/DETAIL/LOOKBOOK IMAGES www.vogue.com/runway www.annasui.com/en/#/collection http://kimseoryong.com/ @marchesafashion | Instagram @toryburch | Instagram @ashish_uk | Instagram @dior | Instagram @maisonvalentino | Instagram @marykatrantzou | Instagram @roberto_cavalli | Instagram


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Designer File: S/S Ready-to-Wear 2017  

Designer File: S/S Ready-to-Wear 2017 FASH 110-01