Galley Gourmet By Bill Shaw
A Crabtastic Summer For a local seafood fanatic like myself, it’s just not summer around here without plenty of Dungeness crab. As the executive chef of Roche Harbor Resort on San Juan Island, whenever I get ready to make these signature Dungeness Crab and Artichoke Dip or Dungeness Crab Bisque recipes, I can’t help but smile at the many memories I have with these time-honored dishes. It’s amazing how closely taste and memory are connected. In late summer of 1993, I boarded a Kenmore Air seaplane bound for Roche Harbor to interview for the executive chef position I hold today. When I arrived, the beauty of the gardens and sounds of the busy harbor overcame me, but what really grabbed my attention was the roar of laughter coming from a little bar on a deck over the water. Inside, a server who surprisingly was an old friend from Seattle who had been working at Roche during the summer seasons. I asked her what she thought were the best things on the menu and she replied without hesitation, “You have got to have the Dungeness Bisque and a Fluffy Duck.” The bisque was rich, creamy, loaded with crab, and had some smoky heat from the Spanish paprika. After my interview, I celebrated with a Fluffy Duck cocktail, and the Dungeness Crab Bisque has continued to
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be one of our most requested recipes, unchanged from my first day at Roche Harbor. The dip recipe here is not only delicious on its own, but also as an ingredient. Many restaurants have a menu item that was inspired by this basic recipe created in the 70’s by Joan Komen, beloved wife of Rich Komen, and current co-owner of Roche Harbor Resort. Roche Harbor hosts many boat owner groups throughout the summer season and one of their favorite events on the first night is a potluck appetizer party. I have been honored in the past with judging the best appetizer of the event. A few variations of this recipe are always in the competition. A common mistake is adding excess crab (it’s true, there is such a thing!) or use a mayonnaise that is not made with egg yolks. Eggs are an amazing ingredient and are essential to this recipe because when baked together the crab and mayonnaise make a savory custard-like spread. Too much crab (or other ingredients) will change the egg-to-ingredient ratio resulting in an oily disappointment. Bill Shaw is the head chef of Roche Harbor Resort and Marina of San Juan Island. Shaw has worked at Roche since 1993. He loves utilizing local ingredients and takes full advantage of the area’s seasonal goods.
Dungeness Crab and Artichoke Dip ½ cup fresh Dungeness crab meat, drained ½ cup artichoke hearts (unmarinated), coarsely chopped into ½” pieces ¼ cup Parmesan cheese, shredded ¼ cup yellow onion, peeled, cut into quarter sections, then sliced paper thin
1 cup egg yolk-based mayonnaise (Best Foods brand strongly recommended) 1 teaspoon Italian flat-leaf parsley, minced 1 each fresh lemon 1 fresh baguette
Combine Dungeness crab, artichoke hearts, Parmesan cheese, yellow onion, and mayonnaise in a medium bowl and mix well. Wrap and hold in refrigerator until needed. Place desired amount of crab mixture in heatproof ramekin and place in a 400-degree oven until an internal temperature of 140 degrees is achieved or browned on top and bubbling. Top with parsley and lemon slice. Serve with warm sliced French bread.
Dungeness Crab Quesadilla ¾ cup fresh Dungeness crab and artichoke dip (see recipe) 6” flour tortilla, gordita style (2 per person) 2 tablespoons Parmesan cheese, shredded
4 tablespoons cheddar cheese, shredded 1 each Roma tomato, seeded and chopped fine 3 Tablespoons butter
Divide crab mixture in half and spread on half of each tortilla. Top with cheddar & Parmesan cheese followed by diced tomato. Fold filled tortilla in half. Wrap and hold in refrigerator until needed. Heat skillet or griddle on medium heat. Melt butter and place crab filled tortilla in buttered griddle or pan for 2-3 minutes or until golden. Turn and repeat. Place golden crab quesadilla on cutting board and cut in fourths. Place crab quesadilla slices on heated plate and serve with lemon, salsa, and lime-sour cream if desired. Serves four.
62 NORTHWEST YACHTING || AUGUST 2018