NU-MODE´ FASHION ART & LIFESTYLE MAGAZINE A/W 2011-2012 ISSUE 4
The Anniversary Issue
Tatjana summer crosley, jiri geller, moon hooch, peggy wolf jenny lai, MARIO HUGO, SHADOWPLAY, SVETA GLEBOVA
Welcome To Issue 4
N U - M O D E´ EDITOR IN CHIEF & CREATIVE DIRECTOR LATOYA HENRY LATOYA@NUMODEMAG.COM FASHION EDITOR RENESSTA OLDS RENESSTA@NUMODEMAG.COM MARKET EDITOR KAI-LEE PARKER KAILEE@NUMODEMAG.COM FASHION FEATURES & MUSIC EDITOR JOHN-MARK JOHNMARK@NUMODEMAG.COM CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS HIRO KIMURA, COREY SCOTT ARTER, GREGORY KEITH KIRKPATRICK, BENJO ARWAS, LERIAM GONZALEZ, JULIE DICKINSON, KAROLIINA BARLUND, NAKEYA B., CALOPE, DEAN CHRISTIAN, CHRISTOPHER HELMUT GROSSER, HARVEY MIEDREICH, KAROLINA GRZESIAK, ANA-MONIQUE VELASQUEZ, SOUKENA ROUSSI, ERIC ACQUAYE, JON STARS, LPH SUBMISSIONS & WEB ENQURIES INFO@NUMODEMAG.COM PUBLISHED BY NU-MODE´ MAGAZINE BROOKLYN, NY 11238 T. 7 1 8 . 8 1 2 . 5 8 1 5 WWW.NUMODEMAG.COM
NU-MODEÂ´TEAM Latoya Henry is a fashion stylist & photographer who enjoys eatting ice cream in the dark.... www.l-ph.com
Founder & Editor In Chief Latoya P. Henry
Renessta has a lifelong love of fashion and style. A native New Yorker and current resident of Brooklyn, she has established a vast network of insider contacts within the garment district and multiple showrooms. Additionally, as a former FIT student, Renessta has also cultivated relationships with up-and-coming designers and established industry professionals. www.reneeostylelab.com Fashion Editor Renessta Olds
J.M. is a dance choreographer, journalist, creative director, and producer. When not working, he enjoys kissing, sushi, and Star Wars. www.houseofjohnmark.com
Fashion Features & Music Editor John-Mark
Kai-Lee is a 29 year old fashion, food and vintage enthusiast living in Brooklyn. Since arriving in NYC 2 years ago, she has worked on shoots for Marie Claire Spain, Lee Jeans, USA networks, music videos, commercials as well as numerous editorials. When sheâ€™s not on set styling a shoot she enjoys cooking, brunching, thrifting and discovering different parts of NYC... one borough at a time. kaileeparker.carbonmade.com
Market Editor Kai-Lee Parker
CONTRIBUTORS She is a Finnish born London based fashion and portrait photographer who fell in love with photography at the age of 12 and it changed her world. www.karoliinabarlund.com
I’m an artist; I love lighting and breathing photography. We are all here to create photos and not to take photos. I’m working with passion and I love my job. If it’s not coming from my heart it should stay in the camera or deleted. www.benjoarwas.com
He is a 20 year old self-taught photographer based in Los Angeles. He draws inspiration from online fashion blogs, pop culture, and the California lifestyle. Dean loves you! www.deanchristian.com
I may not be able to eat dairy anymore... This has always been a fear of mine. www.gregorykeith.com
Gregory Keith Kirkpatrick
BIRD ON MONEY 1981
Jean-Michel Basquiat in his studio, 1985 Photography Lizzie Himmel
e have made such an incredible journey to get here to our one year anniversary issue and stumbling across Jean-Michel Basquiat “Downtown 81” film I was instantly inspired by the artist view and attitude towards life and art. I’ve had the opportunity to view many of his inspirational pieces and I was blown away by the emotions shown through his art. From there it clicked that the theme of our one year anniversary issue should be L’ Expressioniste (The Expressionist). Basquiat was one of the pioneers for abstract expressionism. Though we are not all abstract expressionist we do have our own way of expressing different emotions through our work whether we are photographers, artist, designers, make up artist or hairstylist. We all share the same passion to express how we feel. I am so proud and excited that we had the chance to work and collaborate with so many amazing and extremely talented artist this issue. Thank you for making this a spectacular one. So here I present to you the fourth issue of Nu-Mode´ magazine L’ Expressioniste.
Latoya Henry Editor In Chief
CONTENTS Features Things We Love PG. 10 Diego Indracollo PG. 12 Peggy Wolf PG. 20 Cullen Stephenson PG. 26 Jenny Lai PG. 82 David Hughes PG. 90 Sveta Glebova PG. 96 Stacy Armand PG. 106 Summer Crosley PG. 156 Shadowplay PG. 162 Moon Hooch PG. 172 Jiri Geller PG. 240 Mario Hugo PG. 250 Ina Jang PG. 262 Yuki Minami PG. 270 Accesorize Guyz PG. 306 Helios And Luna PG. 342 Brooklyn Bleu PG. 346 Bombshell Row PG. 352 Women Trends PG. 404 Men Trends PG. 408 Special Thanks/Stocklist PG. 412 NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 8
Editorials Strength By Beauty PG. 34 With Out You PG. 44 Blues PG. 52 Evil Twin PG. 68 Iâ€™ve Lost My Master Margarita PG. 112 Forgetting Diana PG. 124 Never Along PG. 132 Made In LA PG. 142 My So Called Life PG. 178 Venice Vice PG. 192 Fashism PG. 200 Le Magnifique PG. 218 A Secret Affair PG. 226 Hidden Place PG. 278 B Is For Becker PG. 284 The Modern Man PG. 298 Timber PG. 322 Troika PG. 330 Have To Leave PG. 358 Kiss Me Deadly PG. 372 Daydreaming Of Eternal Bliss PG. 384 From Water To Wall PG. 396
THINGS WE LOVE EMPTY KINGDOM They feature some of the most exclusive artist around. Based in San Francisco CA Empty Kingdom is a art website that showcases new media, photography and design. To view their fantastic website check them out here at WWW.EMPTYKINGDOM.COM
PEDIGREE SNEAKER GALLERY
Located at 45 Willoughby Ave in Forte Greene Brooklyn,Ny Pedigree carries a chic edition of kicks from designers like Alexander McQueen Puma & Y-3. With it’s unique decor space and relaxed setting pedigree is well worth the vist. Pedigree Sneaker Gallery 718-858-8755
Coming from the land down under hip hop’s new rising star Iggy Azelea is making headlines with her latest Track “My World” We specifically love this artist for her exciting and erotic attitude to her chic rocker edge style. Her latest album is full of bass bumping beats that will keep you on your feet. To listen & download Iggy Azelea’s latest album check her out at IGGYAZALEA.COM
THE WEEKND On a fast track to super stardum The Weeknd has one of the most angelic voices and interesting new sounds to date. He is featured on Drake’s latest album “Take Care”. This artist proves to be a force to be reckoned with. To listen to The Weeknd you could download his debut album for free on his website WWW.THEWEEKND.COM
Costume Dept. always have the best style with it comes down lookbooks. Their garments have a very contemporary and modern aesthetic. We are huge fans of their most recent collection Fall/Winter collection titled “ Evolution” and we are looking forward to see what they have in store for SS12. To view their collection check out their website here WWW.COSTUMEDEPT.COM
Chung Chung Lee is the designer behind Mens Lie. Debuting his Spring/Summer 2012 collection for the very first time in the US. The theme of his latest collection is classical Earhart mixed with a modern look. We are very excited to see a diffrent take on men’s wear next spring. NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 11
DIEGO INDRACCOLO INTERVIEW LATOYA HENRY
London based photographer Diego Indraccolo brings an enchanting approach to fashion photography by stepping out the box and steering away from your stereo-typical fashion photographs. Indraccolo creates a dramatic yet striking setting for his images which are full of life and extraordinary beauty. The photographer expresses the magic held within each subject in a mysterious manner.
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 12
FIASCO HOMME MAGAZINE
ROB GOODWIN COLLECTION
When was the first time you held a camera in your hands and how did you decide that fashion was the direction you wanted to take your photography? I actually can’t remember the first time I held a camera. But I do remember getting my first film slr when I was 18. Fashion was something I used to look at since the beginning. It wasn’t that I was particularly interested in the industry, It was just an easy way of accessing a certain standard of photography. It became a professional aspiration much later. One of my favorite editorials from your collection of work is the Designs By Rob Goodwin - Accessories Final what was the inspiration behind that editorial? The theme given to us by the International Talent Support was “Steam Punk”. It was also required that we somehow included a compass in the image. With all things that have such directional briefs, I think it’s important to have a minimal approach. After all, Rob’s pieces are so beautiful, there is really not much more you need to add to the scene to make an interesting picture. So with stylist Kay Korsh, we decided to get the model to wear nothing but a white leotard. I think it worked pretty well.
DIEGO INDRACOLLO & GRAPHIC DESIGNER POK U CHAN SCHÖN! MAGAZINE
particular emotion. When I shoot, I look for things that I like. If there is no “magic”, then it’s not working and I need to change something. A lot of people see it as “dark”, but really is just that all the stuff I like ends up having a certain mood, though one I never set out to achieve to begin with. My only goal is to steer away as much as I can from cliches and vulgarity. Everything else just falls into place from that mindset.
Me and Rob will be working together again on Your editorial for Schon magazine is amazing. How did the collaboration between you and the poster for the English National Ballet. Pok U Chan come together? You take a different approach to fashion photography from most photographers your work has a dark artistic feel. Tell us what are you trying to express with your style of photography? I don’t think I consciously try to express a
Thank you! I met Pok U a while back and I always thought she was an amazingly talented illustrator. I never liked fashion photography with illustrations on top much, but when she showed me her “Specimen” series I thought her approach would have worked perfectly with photography. NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 15
UNA BURKE LOOKBOOK
Her use of transparency would have meant the illustrations become an integral part of the image, rather then an addition to it. She did perform well beyond my expectations though (an amazing job ) and I couldn’t be happier with the results. What was difficult about the shoot was photographing Sylwia (the model) naked, while trying to create the feeling, movements, crops and poses required for a dressed shoot. Normally I get my inspiration for composition, shape and direction of the model from the clothes she’s wearing and it was odd having to work without that anchor. Me and Pok U are already working on our next project. We’re going a bit darker this time. Do you have any muses that inspire you and your work? I try to get inspired by anything but other fashion photography. It’s not easy, but when I look at other editorials I like and take that as inspiration, I always end up with images I feel not truly mine. Some of the pros and cons of being a fashion photographer?
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 16
Being a “fashion photographer” sounds quite naff... I think the con is included in the title. The pros would definitely include the part where I get to see a shoot coming together and get excited about it.
SEZONI MODI MAGAZINE
Are there any new projects you are currently working on at the moment? At the moment I am doing an advertising campaign for an Italian sunglasses brand and it has completely taken over most of my time. I am trying to juggle my look-book clients and some editorials, but all my energy right now is in the campaign.
“Being a “fashion photographer” sounds quite naff... I think the con is included in the title.”
If you could shoot an editorial story anywhere in the world where would it be and why? I am planning to travel China for a bit and I am intrigued by what I might find there. I wouldn’t mind doing some editorials with an Asian twist. Where do you think the future of fashion photographer is going? If i knew that, I’d be already there... Who else would you like to work with in the near future? I’d love to shoot Guinevere Van Seenus, but I do have a few people in the pipeline I am quite excited about. Future plans for Diego Indraccolo? I’ll be traveling extensively next year and see how those experiences will influence the way I shoot.
WWW.DIEGOINDRACCOLO.COM NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 19
PEGGY WOLF INTERVIEW LATOYA HENRY
German illustrator and interior designer Peggy wolf collages consist of a beautiful blend of colors, shapes and drawings. Though the artist tries not to place herself into certain categories she continues to keep her style very feminine and glamourous.
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 20
“I am trying not to put myself into certain categories. As for my work I’d like to keep it free and detached of any description.”
What are you trying to portray with your work? I am trying to portray a mix of the different women in this world, their beauty and my emotions which I have towards colors, shapes and proportions. It is also about trying to get in touch with their world, the life they live and putting this onto paper. How would you describe your style? Describing my own style is still a bit difficult for myself, as I am trying not to put myself into certain categories. As for my work I’d like to keep it free and detached of any description. But I guess one can say my style is feminine, colorful and sometimes you’ll find some fauna & flora.
inspirational for my artwork. Do you try to combine your illustrations & collages with interior design? I’d say that I am combining interior design in my artwork, but only in small amounts and not as a necessity. In my collages I tend to use interior design more often and more obvious, as I like to portray the women with a bigger story around them. Is there a certain audience you are trying to capture?
I am not trying to capture a certain audience. I have done that some years ago, when I was creating a portfolio for certain magazines and fashion companies. It didn’t work at all and it was so frustrating not to land a job after all this hard work. A while after this experience I told Where do you usually find inspiration? myself just to be free with my work and create illustrations that I like. Basically I started to draw I always find my inspiration in a face - this is and to collage for myself and was lucky enough how I start any kind of work. These faces I that it worked out and my audience found me. find in books, movies, friends and by watching people in the streets. Your work has a very feminine approach have you ever thought of taking your work into the You branched off into interior design why opposite direction? did you decide to slightly change your career path? Yes, I have thought about starting to work on male illustrations and collages. But I have a feelWorking in interior design wasn’t planned ing that this is more a project in the future. At at all. It just happened after I’ve started to the moment I am still focusing and exploring the live in London and whilst I was looking for female site of life. a job. During these two years working in this particular field, I’ve gained so much valuable experience, which is helping me now to Does your work have a secret message? manage my job as an illustrator. I loved to be surrounded by so many amazing fabrics and I guess its a bit about ‘Be yourself, show and patterns. Many of the fabrics are still very live your character’. NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 23
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 24
Who are some of your favorite fashion Icons and why? My style icons are Jane Birkin, Patti Smith and Sofia Coppola, because they all have this effortless style and even a simple TShirt and a pair of jeans look so good on them. I am not a fan of styling myself for hours and I like to buy less clothes, but the ones which I adore and which Iâ€™ll wear till they fall apart. What do you think the future of art is going to be in the year 2012? I am hoping it will be light, bright and beautiful! Do you have any new projects you are looking forward to?
Yes, definitely! I am always happy and excited on all of my jobs, as they are always very different and very challenging. At the moment I am working on new collages for a London based Jewelry Designer and in December I will take part on the East London Design Show, where Iâ€™ll be selling my illustrations and collages as prints. What is something we should expect for the future of Peggy Wolf? There will be more illustrations and collages of stunning women and hopefully some illustrations of men too. It might be that expression-wise my characters will become more intense and with a deeper meaning to them. I am trying to take it further, up to the next level.
CULLEN STEPHENSON INTERVIEW LATOYA HENRY
Contemporary artist Cullen Stephenson takes collage art into another direction with his Inspirational pieces. The artist explains by just using just â€œa razor, a magazine and some beautiful gaucheâ€? Stephenson converts images that are considered to be perfect and creates fascinating imagery which are inspired by current events.
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 27
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 28
When did you decide you wanted to be an artist / photographer and why? I took a drawing course in college, and something about it clicked for me. Drawing somehow physically united what I was seeing, and that translation from 3d to 2d was mysterious. I loved that, on paper, a drawn leg flows into a chair and becomes part of the same thing. I think that in a lot of ways that created my interest in photography and collage. It’s a flattened plane that you’re trying to bring to life. When creating your pieces do you usually mix both your art & photography together? Yeah, I like it when the two can work together and don’t really see them as separate. It’s about using the space created in one to contrast with the flatness of the other. So there ends up being a lot of push and pull. I know that a lot of art aims for clarity, and there can be a general preference for straight photography. But, I’m really attracted to mixed signals, and want it to be thick and indirect.
What type of emotions do you hope to portray through your work?
I want to cover basic concerns… sex, death, fear, strength. I think there’s some sort of moral ambiguity that’s interesting, and there’s definitely a visual ambiguity that I’m fishing for. And, I want it to all be wrapped in a very sexy structure that has breath. Is there a specific reaction you are trying to capture from your audience?
What medium and process do you use to Yeah, I want them to like it so much that they’d concreate your pieces? sider stealing it. I think creating desire on that level I work back and forth between photogra- is the goal. phy and collage, and the pieces and processes between the two get mixed. With Your work has such a fascinating approach. How photography, I’m working with a 4x5 long does it take for you to construct a collage? camera most of the time, and with the collage it’s just magazines, a razor, and They’re quick, and the good ones snap into place some beautiful gouache paints. As long as I can get my hands in there, I’m happy. like magnets. But, it’s really just playing numbers.
“I read a quote from Picasso saying that you should work to destroy anything precious in your artwork. I take that very seriously” A-SPLIT FORM CONDUCTING
the income streaming so that I can make more art. It’s a hustle, but it’s also love.
“Blue Velvet” is one of my favorite pieces from your collection. How were you inspired to make this piece ? At some point, I read a quote from Picasso saying that you should work to destroy anything precious in your artwork. I take that very seriously, and want to subvert anything that seems too perfect in the source image. In this piece, that meant maintaining the USA red, white, and blue undertone while making the figure even more androgynous. I think the forms at the bottom start to suggest some male parts, and that juxtaposition of drag and patriotism is interesting to me. It also has that oscillation between flatness and form, and the face becomes a flag.
I’m creating nine bad collages to get the one that sings. If you don’t do that, they become too precious and look overworked. I usually spend some time with the source images and try to decide why I’m attracted to them. Then, I work to fragment what seems important in the photo, and I put my foot into that space. Much of the time, the best pieces take form unintentionally.
As an artist what does expressionism mean to you? That term always recalls the abstract expressionists which are a counterpoint to the work I’m interested in. I like to feminize their energy. In your opinion does it seem like everyone is much more interested in art today than they have been in the past?
What has been your biggest challenge as an artist? I hope they are. It’s certainly become easier to see art. I just want everyone to have a If I’m honest, the biggest challenge is just keeping good time and enjoy life.
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 31
Who are some of your favorite artist and If you could travel with just one of them on a three day tour who would it be and what would you like to discuss? I’d want to talk to Roger Ballen. Is your work influenced by any of your favorite artist and why? Yeah, It’s part of a discussion that’s been going on for a very long time. I find myself really looking at stuff going back to Giotto, because the geometry is so strange and the figures are so awkward. And, I’m excited by contemporary photography. Artists like Roger Ballen, Viviane Sassen, Thomas Hauser, Matt Shlian, Taiyo Onorato & Nico Krebs are all definitely doing things that I’m watching closely. If you were not a artist what else you would venture into? I’ve always joked about coming from a family of underwear models, but I think I’m going to stick with artist. Are there any tips or advice you could share with emerging artist? Do what you love in your own voice, and do a lot of it. Future plans for Cullen Stephenson? Making more work with more people. NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 32
WWW. CULLENSTEPHENSON.COM FROM-HERE
STRENGTH BY BEAUTY
PHOTOGRAPHY GEGORY KEITH KIRKPATRICK
ALL GARMENTS VITO EMANULE
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 35
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 36
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 39
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 40
PHOTOGRAPHY GREGORY KEITH KIRKPATRICK STYLING VITO EMANULE MAKE UP ARTIST JESSI BUTTERFIELD
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 43
WITH OUT YOU.
PHOTOGRAPHY HIRO KIMURA STYLING TORU NAGOSHI
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 44
SUNGLASSES YOHJI YAMAMOTO BRACELETS AGATHA
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 47
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 48
HAT DOLCE & GABBANA
DRESS LANVIN BRACELETS AGATHA
PHOTOGRAPHY HIRO KIMURA LIGHTING TECHNICIAN KOKI TAKEZAWA STYLING TORU NAGOSHI HAIRSTYLIST TAICHI MAKE UP ARTIST MARI SUSUDA MODEL PAU
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 51
BLUES PHOTOGRAPHY KAROLIINA BARLUND STYLING KIMMIE ENDRESEN
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 52
JUMPER VINTAGE SHIRT VINTAGE LANVIN TROUSERS VIVIENNE WESTWOOD BELT VIVIENNE WESTWOOD
JUMPER AGI & SAM JACKET VIVIENNE WESTWOOD
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 55
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 56
JACKET VIVIENNE WESTWOOD TANK TOPMAN TROUSERS CHEAP MONDAY SHOES VIVIENNE WESTWOOD BELT VIVIENNE WESTWOOD
DRESS JAMES HOCK SOCKS VIVIENNE WESTWOOD BOOTS DR. MARTEN
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 59
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 60
ON WILLIAM BLAZER VINTAGE T SHIRT ALEXANDER WANG KILT VIVIENNE WESTWOOD BOOTS DR. MARTENS ON KIT BLAZER MONKI TROUSERS JAMES HOCK BELT H&M SHOES STYLIST OWN
ON KIT DRESS JAMES HOCK COLLAR COS ON WILLIAM BOLERO ALEXANDER WANG DRESS HELMUT LANG JUMPSUIT RACHEL FREIRE
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 63
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 64
JACKET JAMES HOCK BLOUSE H&M SHORTS H&M SHOES STYLIST OWN
JACKET JAMES HOCK TROUSERS VINTAGE
PHOTOGRAPHY KAROLIINA BARLUND STYLING KIMMIE ENDRESEN STYLIST ASSISTANT SIMON SHOWELL HAIRSTYLIST & MAKE UP ARTIST YUKO FREDRIKSSON MODELS KIT & WILLIAM AT ELITE
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 67
ALL GARMENTS ON INDIA: HAT VINTAGE SHIRT CALVIN KLEIN TANK TOP H&M JACKET VINTAGE PANT GABBY APPLEGATE SHOES DR. MARTEN ALL GARMENTS ON AARON: ACCESSORIES VINTAGE TANK TOP H&M PANT ZARA JACKET VINTAGE LYNN PULLMAN
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 68
EVIL TWIN PHOTOGRAPHY SOUKENA ROUSSI STYLING SOUKENA ROUSSI
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 71
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 72
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 75
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 76
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 79
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 80
PHOTOGRAPHY SOUKENA ROUSSI STYLING SOUKENA ROUSSI EDITOR AIBEK RASULOV MODELS INDIA CHARMAIN AT DBDG & AARON STOKES AT RED MODEL MANAGEMENT VERY SPECIAL THANKS TO GORDON KIPPING
JENNY LAI INTERVIEW LATOYA HENRY PHOTOGRAPHY CHASSEY REYES & PHOTOGRAPHY LAUREN EIKO
She creates an eclectic combination of garments for the modern day woman. fashion designer Jenny Lai finds inspiration from either unusual fabric or function. The designer likes the challenge of using materials that aren’t obviously used for clothing. Lai’s latest collection offers a portrait of individuality coming not from what one exposes but how one hides herself.
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 83
When and why did you decide to become a fashion designer? I knew I wanted to be a fashion designer when I was 14 years old. I was in Vienna with my family, walking past a store window that had a beautiful burgundy velvet dress with long sleeves. I stood in front of the window for a long time. Since then, my fascination with clothing has only grown, but that marked the beginning. Where do you usually find inspiration when you are putting together a collection? Usually my collections start off from either a fabric or function inspiration. When I was working in Mexico City, I would see these piles of colorful jute in all of the fabric stores, people used them as cheap tablecloths. It inspired my thesis collection. I like the challenge of using materials that aren’t obviously used for clothing whether it’s jute, pinecones or fusible. Every collection is also about proposing a new function, always challenging how the body interacts within clothing and how the clothing then converses with people and surroundings. Once I have my initial inclination, everything else feeds it, architecture, photographs and prints, furniture, sculptures, films, dance… NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 84
PHOTOGRAPHY CHASSEY REYES
Your Spring/Summer 2012 collection is exquisite. What was the inspiration behind designing this collection?
My SS12 collection “Portrait By Sheet” offers a portrait of individuality coming not from what one exposes but how one hides herself. It is about the woman who sometimes wishes to observe the world under anonymity yet never ceases to exude personality in her disguise. Although the palette is dark, the collection is as much playful and versatile; channeling how a sheet is both a little girl throwing a blanket over her head and an ominous lump that hides a body. The wearer who does not want to be seen treads a fine line, as the more one hides herself, the more she risks being noticed. These levels of extremity are played with through pieces that can be buttoned up over the face, hoods that fall to the chin, and flaps that blur the silhouette as much as they can be undone, let loose, and opened up. Are there any specific rules a designer should keep in mind when designing certain garments? The only thing that I would say is put it on. I’m often half-dressed while working, wearing my garments as I’m designing them! The body will tell you what’s working and what’s not.
“I have this tendency of defining what I want by first realizing what I don’t want. The positive from negatives. And so this name came about when I realized that I will never accept the standards.”
How do you try to separate yourself from other designers? My brand’s name is ‘not’, and that came out of a long period struggling to come up with a name because I was basically against even the concept of a name. I have this tendency of defining what I want by first realizing what I don’t want. The positive from negatives. And so this name came about when I realized that I will never accept the standards. With a dose of dogmatic delusion I will keep finding my own way. One person who has been a major influence on you and your work? In my school years, I pored over all of Chalayan’s works. I still do, there’s a spirit there and a conviction that stands out above others. Yohji Yamamoto also influences me with the spirituality, really that’s the only word I can describe of it, that clothing is for him. Strong emotions are undeniable. Are there any obstacles that you had to overcome in order to become a designer? I’ve been very lucky that my family has always supported me in my passions. I know many people whose families didn’t feel that art or design school was worthwhile. So I have been very fortunate. If there was one designer you could do a collaboration with who would it be and why? I’m constantly learning about and being introduced to new designers so I think that will always be changing. I recently came upon some of Heidi Lee’s hats being displayed at the same store that has a few of my pieces, and found them so inspirational and eclectic. And we are both RISD alum! I’d love to see what the two of us could come up with. NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 87
Coming from California what do you think is the style difference between the west and the east coast? I suppose the west coast is about casual wear and sportswear while the east coast is more focused on business attire. There is a more competitive streak in the east coast, so I’d say that’s why fashion thrives there. It’s partly the loner instinct, partly a dress-to-impress, that New Yorkers thrive on. What are some things you like to do during your downtime? I love making music, enjoying live music, watching people dance, trying to dance myself. If you could travel to any place in the world right now where would it be and why? I would really like my next exhale to be in Morocco. It’s a popular destination, but one different from any I’ve been to. I want to visit the huge dye pits and also experience some decadent public baths! One item in you closet that you can’t live without? I have this novelty knit jacket that I’ve termed my “dinosaur jacket”. It’s gray with glittery navy bumps all over. I got it from a young woman in Milan selling clothing on the ground. It looks like it’s handmade, very simple, but fantastic. Who is your favorite style icon and why? I don’t have a favorite style icon. I’m inspired by people on the streets everyday. I live in the upper west side, and there are so many elderly men and women that have the kind of style that makes me grin from ear to ear. Do you think that you would be exploring with a mens collection in the near future? I do love menswear, but I will be focusing on womenswear for the foreseeable future. What are some things we should expect with future collections from Jenny Lai? Each collection is so different from the last, so expect to be surprised. NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 88
PHOTOGRAPHY LAUREN EIKO
DAVID HUGHES INTERVIEW LATOYA HENRY
David Hughes creates highly sophisticated abstract pieces, he experiments with de constructing and molding shapes into wondrous images. Hughes work consist of a fascinating take on three dimensional structures and space.
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 91
Would you consider your work to be abstract? For the most part, yes. Is your work based off of fictional or non fictional events? I very rarely begin with a conscious basis for any piece of work. Things usually begin with a process of experimentation and play. Sometimes I set down parameters or limitations to work with, but I rarely have a conscious idea in my head of where I’m headed. NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 92
“Snow Globe” is a very intriguing captivating piece what inspired you to create this design? This is a perfect example of the above really. I began just by messing about with a picture I had taken. I wanted to use some of the most seemingly awful photoshop filters like twirl and ripple and try to make something good. Generally I feel the best things come from a mixture of intention and accident. That’s the tension I’m always trying to find.
On your web-site you have a tablet with different images of your work on a T-shirt. Do you think a T-shirt line may become a reality in the year 2012? I hope so. It’s something I’ve been keen on for a long time but I’m rather hopeless when it comes to making these kind of things actually happen! What are some of the pros and cons of being an artist?
How do you try to separate yourself from other artist?
Cons would include self doubt and poverty (although that may actually be a pro!) Pros would include the feeling of making something that didn’t exist before and wearing unstructured trousers at the most outrageous hour!
I’m not sure if I really think about that. I suppose the goal is always to find a personal voice. You could go mad worrying about being truly original and unique. I think it was Paul Rand who said “ don’t try to be original just be good “. I like that.
Do you strive for perfection? Not sure if perfection is possible, or particularly interesting. I tend to see any piece of work as one possible outcome of many rather than the perfect realization of an idea.
As an artist what does expressionism mean to you? Haven’t thought about it since art history classes to be honest.
BLOOD ON THE ROYAL COURT
“Prioritize your work above other things. You can take this to different extremes - and I wouldn’t say I’ve found my level, but at some point you have to make a choice” Do you follow any guidelines or do you go against the grain? Hopefully both. I like to set a framework for myself and then see what happens. Rules are made to broken! Are there any new projects you are currently working on? For the last 2 years or so I’ve been working away from the computer doing a lot of drawing and painting. None of that work has really seen the light of day yet. I’m hoping over the next few months to get some things ready for an exhibition. What are some things you are looking forward to in the near future? Finishing this new batch of work and getting on with some more! One piece of advice you could offer aspiring artist? Prioritize your work above other things. You can take this to different extremes and I wouldn’t say I’ve found my level, but at some point you have to make a choice that your work is more important than x, y and especially z.
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 95
SVETA GLEBOVA INTERVIEW LATOYA HENRY PHOTOGRAPHY LPH STYLING LATOYA HENRY
Known for her recent win with designer Anya Ayoung-Chee Ukranian model Sveta Glebova sits down with us on a early sunday morning while in hair and make up to discuss her amazing experience of being a part of the hit show Project Runway season nine, what her everyday regime consist of and what new things she is looking forward to in the near future. DRESS ABIGAIL STEWART NECKLACE NAKED LABEL
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 96
DRESS CODY SAI SEQUINED COAT LIE SANG BONG WOOL HAT ZARA NECKLACE SPECIES BY THE THOUSANDS RING SPECIES BY THE THOUSANDS
KNIT TOP CORRELL CORRELL SKIRT EGGCREAM KNIT HAT CORRELL CORRELL (OPPOSITE PAGE) ZIP VEST EGGCREAM
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 98
When did you decide to become a model? I started modeling when I fifteen I think I just some of my girlfriends talking about it and we had an agency opening in my city so I decided to try it. You were on Project Runway season nine and just won the model competition how was that experience? Well that was very fun I didn’t think that any of the models after episode three considered this as a job because we all liked our designers so we were very excited to see them everyday, to see what they designed for us to wear and to cheer them on. Both the models and the designers were great. The production was also very nice so it was a great experience. What did you enjoy most about being on the show? I think doing the runway and seeing for the Are there any models from the past or present first time what my designer designed for who have made a major impact on you and your the challenges. career choice? What was it like working with Anya Ayoung-Chee?
I don’t think about the impact on my career. Some I really like and look up to is Coco Rocha because of the way she poses and handles herself. I like some of the other models to but they are just pretty. Coco is more than just pretty.
Anya is a really nice and talented person. The way she is on television is how she is in real life. She always has a smile on her face, works well under pressure, uses every Name one essential item that a model should minute allotted to her without yelling, worhave in their closet? rying or stressing out. I really respect her a whole lot. A little black dress
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 99
How would you describe your personal style? My personal style is very easy and everyday when I have castings I have to look as simple as I can so I usally wear jeans, t-shirts, tank tops and dresses. One place in the world you would love to travel? Wow, I can’t pick one there are so many places I would love to travel to but I really want to visit many places in Europe like Spain, Italy or Paris I would also love to go to Asia. I like to meet new people, try new foods, experience different cultures and see everything there is to see outside of the place where I am now. What does your day usually consist of? That’s really hard to tell especially in New York when you are working as a model full time because you only know around 6 pm the day before what your plans are for the next day. If I don’t have a casting or a job I stay at home exercising, cleaning or I go out shopping.
KNIT HOOD SCARF SPRATTERS & JAYNE LEATHER VEST LIE SANG BONG LACE DRESS BHON
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 100
You mentioned exercising how do you keep in shape? I do yoga because I don’t like running or going to the gym.
SILK SCARF PEACE TREATY
TRENCH COAT LIE SANG BONG SEQUINED SHEER TOP ARDEN B PLEATED SKIRT JULIAN LOUIE
What do you like to do during your downtime? I like to read a lot of classic books but my favorites are the trilogy of Stieg Larsson’s “The Girl With The Dragon Tattoo”. There is a movie coming out and I am very excited to see it. Another book that I recently read that had a movie was the Help it was a very nice book. I wanted to go to see the movie but unfortunately I missed it. What advice would you like to offer emerging models? Believe in yourself. You will get a lot of No’s on the castings but don’t think that something is wrong with you just keep doing what you like to do, keep smiling and thinking tomorrow is another day that will bring you a lot of good and new things. What are you looking forward to in the year 2012? I’m looking forward to Fashion week, traveling a bit more and visiting home for a couple of weeks to see my parents and friends.
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 103
“ don’t think that something is wrong with you j and thinking tomor
KNIT T SHIRT CORRELL CORRELL LEATHER VEST LIE SANG BONG SEQUINED PANT LIE SANG BONG NECKLACES COLD PICNIC
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 104
just keep doing what you like to do, keep smiling rrow is another day ”
DRESS CHROMAT GARMENTS NECKLACE CURSIVE DESIGN PHOTOGRAPHY LPH STYLING LATOYA HENRY MAKE UP ARTIST SOPHIA JOSEPH MODEL SVETA GLEBOVA AT WILLHELMINA
STACY ARMAND INTERVIEW KAI-LEE PARKER
Stacy Armand is a Brooklyn based Fashion Stylist turned Jewelry Designer. Since it’s inception Stacy’s line has become very known for being original and funky! She has an amazing way with constructing unique designs out of raw materials and anyone who wears a Stacy Armand original piece will surely be the standout in the room.
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 107
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 108
What inspired you to create your jewelry line? I just wanted to make jewelry I can wear. I’m a jewelry freak, I have a love for jewelry since I was a little kid. Playing with my moms vintage collection. I felt there was a void in the market, as a stylist we love options and statement pieces. I created jewelry because when I needed pieces to style I couldn’t find what I needed. When I did find a piece that I needed, I was tired of going through 20 million doors just to pull certain pieces, So I made up my mind one day and decided I’m going to create it! How long have you been designing jewelry for? I have been designing for about a year in a half. No formal training or schooling, pure determination and lots of trial and error. In 2010, I created my jewelry line in a place where necessity met creativity and a love child was created. I am an accessory Junky at heart, and have an undying love for architecture thats is how my line Un-Hinged was formulated.
the interpretation of form are inspired by the spontaneity and mysticism of abstract expres sionism. I craft my pieces to reflect the aesthetic of minimalism, modern architecture and numerous cultures such as African, Asian and The West Indies.
What types of material do you use to make your pieces?
Who would be an ideal celebrity client?
I play around with different materials. Raw metals, industrial mixed metals, hardware and non conventional pieces. Lots of gold, silver and copper materials.
Just to name a few, my ideal celebrity clients are Lady Gaga, Solange, Erykah Badu, Jessie J, Heidi Klum, Scarlett Johansson, and Leighton Meester.
You’re pieces are quite unique aesthetically, where did you draw your inspiration from?
You are quite an accomplished fashion stylist as well, have you found this to be beneficial when designing your pieces?
My designs are bold and graphic thriving on the juxtaposition of harmonious and incongruous When conceptualizing a design I do have a materials. Embracing my many art influences, stylist approach to it. I am intrigued by the aes-
thetic of using embellishments to change a look, an appearance, a perception. My ever-changing designs are timeless in structure and form, each piece is created to appeal to the eye as well as the soul. The essence of my jewelry captivates the mind and spirit. With expressive subtle colours and clean sharp lines, these designs harness energy and artistry. This is the same approach I use towards styling.
“My designs are bold and graphic thriving on the juxtaposition of harmonious and incongruous materials.”
Where would you like to see Stacy Armand Jewelry in the next 5 years? In the next 5 years I would love to own 3 jewelry boutiques in New York, London and Japan. I would love to also see my jewelry carried in many luxury boutiques. I want my jewelry to make a difference so I would like to have a charity/ fund to help with the poverty and lack of education issues in Haiti. My family is from Haiti and it is very important to me in having a helping hand in restoring what we lost. Every bit helps! Where can we purchase Stacy Armand Jewelry from? You can find my jewelry on www.stacyarmand.com/Jewelry You can email me at email@example.com . If you are in the New York City area you can check out my pieces at Rena Reborn Boutique located on 117 East 7thstreet, Manhattan NY NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 111
I’VE LOST MY MASTER. Margarita. PHOTOGRAPHY KAROLINA GRZESIAK
ONCE UPON A TIME THERE WAS A LADY. SHE HAD NO CHILDREN, AND NO HAPPINESS EITHER. AND AT FIRST SHE CRIED FOR A LONG TIME, BUT THEN SHE BECAME WICKED . . .
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 112
ALL GARMENTS PAULINA UNDZIAKIEWCZ
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 115
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 116
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 119
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 120
PHOTOGRAPHY KAROLINA GRZESIAK DESIGNER PAULINA UNDZIAKIEWICZ MAKEUP ARTIST JOANNA STAWOWY MODEL JOANNA SOBESTO
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 123
FORGETTING DIANA PHOTOGRAPHY CHRISTOPHER HELMUT GROSSER STYLING XIMENA GARCIA DE ONRUBIA
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 124
DRESS JIE-EUEN CHOI
TOP JIE-EUEN CHOI PANT TAKE OFF YOUR CLOTHES
TOP JIE-EUEN CHOI CORSET JACCI JAYE
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 127
CORSET JACCI JAYE PANT TAKE OFF YOUR CLOTHES SHOES PLOMO JEWELRY DEVAUE
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 128
TOP JIE-EUEN CHOI CINCHER JACCI JAYE
DRESS JIE-EUEN CHOI SHOES PLOMO PHOTOGRAPHY CHRISTOPHER HELMUT GROSSER STYLING XIMENA GARCIA DE ONRUBIA HAIRSTYLIST JAMES P. MOORE MAKE UP ARTIST TARA LAUREN ASSISTANT ANDEREW BURKE MODEL DIANA BUTOVA
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 131
NA EL VO NE ER PHOTOGRAPHY HARVEY MIEDREICH STYLING ZOE KREIDER
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 132
BLAZER HUSSEIN CHALAYAN BLOUSE BACK SHORTS ALEXANDER WANG
LEATHER JACKET DIANE VON FURSTENBERG PANT MCQ BY ALEXANDER MCQUEEN RING STYLIST OWN
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 135
DRESS ALEXANDER WANG SHOES ALEXANDER WANG
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 136
BLOUSE CHEAP MONDAY PANT TAILORED WAX
BLAZER HUSSEIN CHALAYAN BLOUSE BACK SHORTS ALEXANDER WANG
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 139
BLAZER CHEAP MONDAY BRA SISLEY SKIRT DIANE VON FURSTENBERG
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 140
DRESS NICOLE MILLER
PHOTOGRAPHY HARVEY MIEDREICH STYLING ZOE KREIDER STYLING ASSISTANT MARIE ZYDEK HAIRSTYLIST PATRICIA JASTRZEBSKI MAKE UP ARTIST COLLEEN NUC ASSISTANT YVES ST BASS
PHOTOGRAPHY BENJO ARWAS STYLING MARIA ALEJANDRA BARRIOS
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 143
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 144
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 147
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 148
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 151
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 152
PHOTOGRAPHY BENJO ARWAS STYLING MARIA ALEJANDRA BARRIOS HAIRSTYLIST & MAKE UP ARTIST MARIA ALEJANDRA BARRIOS ASSISTANT ROY ARWAS MODEL ALEXANDRA BENGTSSON AT GOSHEN MODELS NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 155
SUMMER CROSLEY INTERVIEW LATOYA HENRY PHOTOGRAPHY EMMA VEN
Model, actress and environmentalist. She spent many months in Bali working on a project to save the worlds most beautiful beaches from trash and pollution. Summer has also worked on californication and says it “has been my biggest achievement yet”.
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 156
What inspired you to become a model and a actress? I was inspired to be a model/actress at a young age, I was always tall and thin so people would tell my mom “your daughter should model”, but growing up in a very small town I did not have much opportunity to meet an agency, it was not until I was discovered in Miami Beach that my dream came true!! Is there anyone who been a major influence on you and your career? My mom has always been my biggest supporter and fan, she is also my best friend and was there to believe in me to pursue my modeling career, even though I went to school and earned a marketing degree she wanted me to do what made me happy [Smile] Go Mom! We heard that you’re a big environmentalist What do you love most about being both a please tell us some of the projects you are curmodel & actress and have you faced any rently working on? major obstacles while trying to achieve your goal? My bf and I started a program to help protect the oceans, we spent many months in Bali collecting What I love most about my job is the travel sea urchin shells on the beaches and have make involved, so many gorgeous places I have candles and bracelets out of these shells, we call seen! So far no major obstacles, keeping it Coral Candles. All the proceeds from the fingers crossed. sales go to Help Protect the Oceans and save the worlds most beautiful beaches from trash and pollution. So far it has been a huge success! You were featured in the hit series californication in season four episode two that has everyone talking. How was that experience You’re the new spokes model for Brooke and are there any other series you would Burke’s shoe line how did you feel when you love to be featured in? were approached on such a vast opportunity? Californication has been my biggest achievement yet, I will be appearing next season as Pure luck I guess, I feel truly blessed on some of my jobs and I hope they keep getting better. well so stayed tuned . . . NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 159
You’ve traveled all over the world to do some of the most exquisite shoots. What is the one place that you have been to, enjoyed most and would love to travel to again? My favorite of all time is Bali, what a magical place, there is not another place I feel so connected. Summer your skin is amazing. Is there one beauty tip that you could recommend to achieve your radiant glow? Why thank you! My tips would be to eat healthy, try to wear very minimal makeup and let your skin breathe, and always use sunscreen and a great moisturizer. What do you think is your best feature and how do you usually stay fit? No I am not one to talk about myself, but I do have some long killer legs I stay fit by hiking, riding bikes, long walks in the sand, and yoga. Not a fan of the gym [laughs]
thrown in. Every girl should own awesome pair of boots! One piece of advice for emerging models?
To emerging models my biggest piece of advice What is one thing you love to do most dur- is to stay confident, there is a lot of competition ing your downtime? out there, but some of the prettiest girls are also the shyest. So be confident and believe in your In my downtime I spend it with my boyfriend self and everyone will see it! chilling out cooking good food and watching movies. Is there anything you like to accomplish with your career before the year 2012 and what is in Describe your personal style and what is store for the future of Summer Crosley? one item that every model should have in their closet? I would love to continue building my Ocean Conservation program and for 2012 it is a big My personal style is pretty simple, kind of mystery to me..... I never know what is in store, the boho chic mixed with some edgy pieces sometimes I just wake up to a big surprise and a smile on my face. NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 160
â€œThere is a lot of competition out there, but some of the prettiest girls are also the shyest. So be confident and believe in your self and everyone will see it!â€?
SHADOWPLAY INTERVIEW LATOYA HENRY
Fascinated by all of her surrounding elements jewelry designer Heather Goldberg creates impeccable eco-conscious organic knit necklaces that are embellished with swarovski crystals. The designer describes her collection as light, dark & glitter
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 163
SAIL THE MOON
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 164
When did you get your first start as a jewelry designer? It was sort of an accident. I studied fashion design and while working on a project right before the time I was graduating, I was experimenting with some different things, one of them happen to be knit and crystals. From there I had this piece of knit with crystals hanging off it and I just kept hanging it up in different parts of my workspace. Somehow at one point I saw this vision of something in it and I put it onto a neck form (that you display necklaces on) and safety pinned the closure. It sat there on my desk for a while and then I started wearing it because I loved it so much. Every time I would wear it people would come up to me asking about it. So, I decided to start a small collection using that idea and creating different styles and variations of the technique. Tell us how did you come up with the name “Shadow Play” The name “Shadowplay” is taken from one of my favorite songs by my most beloved band, Joy Division. It just came to my head as a perfect name for my jewelry collection. Describe your style of design in three words? Light Dark Glitter
How long does it take for you to come up with a concept and construct one of your pieces? It really depends on the piece. Most of the concepts of the shape and color of the pieces come naturally and sometimes I just start with an idea and let it take form in the process. Other times I have a certain idea in mind for a look and I just set out to construct that, an example of that is â€œInfinityâ€?. I knew I wanted a piece that was black and white only with many crystals making up the black of the piece. I noticed your lookbooks are surrounded by the elements. Do you usually find most of your inspiration from nature? In the beginning a lot of the inspiration was from nature, but now it is sort of evolving and each collection strays away a little more and tends to be inspired by other things. For instance, all the pieces are named after song titles that I love, so in part those pieces are really inspired by music more than they are by nature. Have you ever thought of branching off into other pieces of jewelry besides your signature necklaces? No. . . What is one way you would describe your latest collection? It is a little darker, with a lot of blacks and nudes. But also, I consider those pieces to
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 167
be sort of cooler than the other more “pretty” looking pieces in previous collections. Is there an ideal person you are designing for? Sort of someone who is like me in a way. Whatever that means. Any major challenges as a jewelry designer? Theres always major challenges as anything! One of my favorite pieces from your collection is “Found Out” what was the inspiration behind that piece? “Found Out” was made as a result of wanting to do a really elaborate huge piece. I had the idea of a girl being able to wear it naked and have it cover her breasts. I think it would look really beautiful! It was actually shot like that for a photoshoot and it was pretty amazing. What is a typical day like at Shadowplay? Wake up and work and whatever else comes my way.
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 168
“I don’t see a separation between my personal time and my working but intertwined are these things I like to do.” If you could collaborate with anyone who would it be and why? Hedi Slimane on photos of amazing boys wearing my necklaces. In your personal time what are some things you like to do? I don’t see a separation between my personal time and my working but intertwined are these things I like to do: listen to music, spinning + yoga, researching random things, looking at art... How would you describe your personal style? Effortless really. I think its a mix of juxtapositions. Advice you could offer to up-andcoming jewelry designers? Just do what you feel and what you like.
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 171
MOON HOOCH INTERVIEW JOHN-MARK PHOTOGRAPHY EDU SANTAMARIA CASTRO
Great things come in threes. The band Moon Hooch is no exception to this rule, as the talented triad of twenty-two-year-olds has the chemistry of a group that’s been together for decades. I was lucky enough to catch up with Wenzl, Mike, and James the day before their departure on a twenty-five city national tour. My afternoon at their Williamsburg apartment was well spent. After a good hour of talking at the kitchen table, we headed outside for photos with their official tour photographer, Edu Santamaria Castro, but only before witnessing the wonder of Wenzl’s new drum pad innovations and James’s magical wall of worldly percussion instruments.
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 172
JM: How did the name Moon Hooch come about?
Mike: Yeah, it’s not a good story. This would be better: This crazy guy comes up to us on the subw-way with a bag full of gold and he’s like Mike: Well, I came up with the name Moon come with us right now. So we go upstairs and Juice originally because we were just playing he gives us all this gold and is like, “You are in the subway and people were asking us what now called Moon Hooch.” our name was. We didn’t have a name, so I just blurted out Moon Juice randomly. It kind of stuck for a while and then we started getting JM: You really could just write your own orimore serious. We looked up the name Moon gin story. Juice online and it was already taken by like eight other bands. So James looked through Wenzl: The first name was a joke. the thesaurus and found hooch, a synonym for juice, cause they can both beMike: We got tons of gold now. Wenzl: -alcoholic liquid that you drink. Mike: So we just switched to hooch… Wenzl: It’s probably the worst story.
JM: How long have you guys been together? Wenzl: Fourteen months?
James: Fifteen months. Mike: Really? Wenzl: Time is flying by. James and I were in different bands together for the last four years--different jazz groups. Then last summer, we were pretty strapped for cash. It was summer of 2010… we decided to just go play in the subway. At the beginning, we were playing Jazz and nobody really cared or gave us a lot of money. So at that time, me and James were also in a dance band called the Atypicals, where I was producing house music and he was playing drums. So I said, “Let’s write some songs that sound like house music.” Then [Mike] came along too, so we wrote a second melody and the harmony just immediately made people dance. Since then we kind of stuck with that weird start of a fusion of Jazz, House, and whatnot.
Wenzl: But by playing so much, we developed our own language and style. Literally, there were days we’d play for six hours together. JM: You band is only fifteen months old, yet you guys are about to depart on a huge national tour. How did that opportunity come about? James: It was kind of given to us. The tour’s headliner, Mike Daughty, saw us play on the subway one day and basically just… took our card and wrote us an email that said, “Hey I want you guys to tour with me.” The tour is already set up … Collectively, we were like, “Yeah!” It’s amazing. JM: Why do you guys feel Moon Hooch has worked so well compared to other groups you’ve been in before?
JM: What you have is a very unique hybrid of instruments; two saxophones and a drum Wenzl: Two reasons: because it’s accessible and set. Is that something that you guys had ever different. I’ve been in groups that were just difseen before? ferent and not accessible, and that didn’t work. I’ve also been in groups where the music was James: Never. super accessible, but not different at all. Mike: If you were to say to me fifteen months Mike: Also, because we play so much together. ago, “Let’s go in the subway and play house Other groups I’ve been in, we would rehearse music with two saxophones and drums” I four to six hours a week. With this group we’ll would be like, “You’re crazy!” play three times a week in the subway, six hour each time. So, we already have eighteen hours James: [laughs] That’s exactly what hapright there, then on top of that we’ll rehearse. pened. We’re always together. I feel like when you spend that much time together, it creates a comWenzl: [laughs] In the beginning we didn’t plete unit. take ourselves seriously. I mean, how can you take seriously two saxophones and a drum set. James: Musically and personally. James: We were just out there having fun.
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 175
JM: You guys are brothers? Mike: Yeah.
JM: That sounds awful. Gotten a ticket for that before?
JM: What do your moms think of Moon Hooch?
Wenzel: Never, but kicked out uncountable times. Is that a word? Uncountable?
James: She’s happy that I’ve found a way to James: It sounds like a word. support myself. Mike: I guess you could say a countable amount Mike: My mom really wants me to go back of times. to school. Wenzl: Whatever, you get the point. Wenzl: Really? My stepdad does, but he’s in James: Impossible to count prison so what does he have to say? Mike: [laughs] My mom loves the music though.
JM: Where do you guys want to be in five years?
Wenzl: My mom comes out often and dances Mike: Japan. really hard. Mike: Yeah, your mom dances her ass off. JM: What is you biggest challenge as a group? Wenzl: The cops. JM: The cops?
James: Space. Mike: [Laughs] Wenzl: Do you mean geographically or as a band? I really want to be traveling a lot. Mike: Yeah, constantly on tour and playing for new crowds of people... and for old fans as well.
James: It’s hard to say where I want to be in five years, but I’m really glad that it is the way that it Wenzl: They’re the people that stop us the most. We often drag all our stuff down to the is right now. subwayMike: It takes a long time. Wenzl: Then the cop comes and says, “Get out of here!” NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 176
You can follow Moon Hooch at moonhooch. blogspot.com. Also be sure to download their latest album on itunes.
“It’s hard to say where I want to be in five years, but I’m really glad that it is the way that it is right now.” -JAMES
HEADBAND FOREVER 21 PLAID MEN’S SHIRT THRIFTED FUR COAT THRIFTED WHITE TANK THRIFTED DENIM JEANS DIESEL LEOPARD HEELS GO JANE
MY SO CALLED LIFE PHOTOGRAPHY NAKEYA B. STYLING NATALY CUEVAS
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 179
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 180
SILK SLIP THRIFTED FUR SCARF VINTAGE BELT H&M JEWELRY MODEL’S OWN
GRAY THERMAL THRIFTED GREEN BEENIE THRIFTED PLAID SKIRT FOREVER 21 CROSS NECKLACE FOREVER 21 STOCKINGS VICTORIA’S SECRET BOOTS DR MARTENS
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 183
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 184
DRESS VINTAGE HAT H&M
CAP OLD NAVY PLAID SHIRT FOREVER 21 CABLE KNIT SWEATER STYLIST OWN
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 187
CAP OLD NAVY PLAID SHIRT FOREVER 21 CABLE KNIT SWEATER STYLIST OWN PLAID SKIRT THRIFTED STOCKINGS STYLIST OWN SHOES MICHAEL BY MICHAEL KORS
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 188
DRESS VINTAGE LEATHER COAT VINTAGE HAT H&M STOCKINGS VICTORIAS SECRET SHOES MODEL’S OWN
SILK SLIP THRIFTED FUR SCARF VINTAGE BELT H&M JEWELRY MODEL’S OWN
PHOTOGRAPHY NAKEYA B. STYLING NATALY CUEVAS MAKE UP ARTIST SHEEN OCOT
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 191
VENICE VICE PHOTOGRAPHY DEAN CHRISTIAN STYLING TYREE FIFER
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 192
SHIRT JC RAGS SHORTS BABAKUL BELT VINTAGE BRACELET , RING & EARRINGS SOHO HEARTS
FUR VEST GEORGIE DENIM JEANS ROCKSTAR NECKLACE AND RING SOHO HEARTS SHOES GUESS
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 195
SHIRT JC RAGS RING VINTAGE SHORTS LOLLY SHOES GUESS
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 196
SHIRT JC RAGS
PHOTOGRAPHY DEAN CHRISTIAN STYLING TYREE FIFER HAIRSTYLIST EDUARDO PONCE MAKE UP ARTIST YUKI UENAKA MODEL ALEXANDRA BENGTSSON AT ENVY MODEL MANAGEMENT
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 199
FASHISM PHOTOGRAPHY COREY SCOTT ARTER STYLING ALIXANDRA LYCETTE
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 200
BLAZER VINTAGE PANT MINI MARKET SHOES MINI MARKET NECKLACE STYLIST OWN STYLING MARY DYANN KEES MAKEUP ARTIST CHRISTYNA KAY MODEL MILES MCMILLAN AT DNA
OPPOSITE PAGE: DRESS CODY SAI THIS PAGE: VEST CODY SAI BLOUSE MARIA SEVERYNA PANT CODY SAI NECKLACE VINTAGE MODEL TATSIANA @FENTONMOON
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 203
VEST KAL RIEMAN SWEATER COSTUME NATIONAL NECKLACE ALIBI
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 204
JACKET SAMUEL MERCURE RING ALIBI BLACK BRACELET H&M SILVER BRACELET TOPMAN MODEL DANIEL JAMES JONES
JACKET JANET ZHENG TOP LF STORES
BLAZER JANET ZHENG PANT JANET ZHENG NECKLACE LESS JEWELRY MAKE UP ARTIST CHRISTYNA KAY MODEL JOHN-MARK AT CLIQUE
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 207
JACKET RAD BY RAD HOURANI PANT RAD BY RAD HOURANI NECKLACE SUBURBAN GROOVE MODEL ALEKSANDRA AT FENTON MOON
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 208
VEST COMME DES GARCONS RING FOREVER 21
JACKET RAD BY RAD HOURANI PANT JANET ZHENG SHOES PUMA BY HUSSEIN CHALAYAN MODEL JOSH RACHLIN AT CLIQUE
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 211
JUMPER YAASERWAAH BY AKUOKU NECKLACE LESS JEWELRY HAIRSTYLIST MARCELLE VOLTAIRE MODEL DASHA AT ORB
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 212
JACKET VINTAGE NECKLACE LESS JEWELRY
BLAZER VINTAGE CHRISTIAN DIOR SHORTS HELMUT LANG TOP SPLENDID NECKLACE LESS JEWELRY HAIRSTYLIST MARCELLE VOLTAIRE MODEL JASON AT ORB
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 215
TOP EGGCREAM PANT EGGCREAM RING VINTAGE EARRINGS VINTAGE
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 216
TOP EGGCREAM SKIRT EGGCREAM NECKLACE VINTAGE BRACELET VINTAGE MODEL SUNNY AT FENTON MOON
PHOTOGRAPHY COREY SCOTT ARTER STYLIST ALIXANDRA LYCETTE HAIRSTLYIST ALEXANDER TOME MAKE UP ARTIST CASSANDRA SUAREZ FIRST ASSISTANT ROMEO LEE PRODUCTION ASSISTANTS CHRISTIE SMITH & IMANI VIDAL
Magnifique PHOTOGRAPHY CALOPE STYLING AMARSANA GENDUNOVA
DRESS LUNDSTROM COLLECTION NECKLACE (USED AS BELT) ELIZA KOZURNO FUR NECKLACE(USED AS BELT) ELIZA KOZURNO
DRESS BASCH BY BRANDON DWYER RING ROXX GLOVE ELIZA KOZURNO SHOES MIMOZA
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 219
DRESS PORTS 1961 SCARF PORTS 1961 SHOES BCBG MAX AZRIA
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 220
DRESS DUY FUR VEST LUNDSTROM COLLECTION SHOES SAM EDELMAN
COAT PORTS 1961 SKIRT DUY NECKLACE (USED AS BELT) ELIZA KOZURNO
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 223
JACKET LUNDSTROM COLLECTION DRESS RACHEL SIN EARRINGS ELIZA KOZURNO
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 224
JACKET DUY DRESS PORTS 1961 EARRINGS ELIZA KOZURNO SHOES STYLIST OWN
PHOTOGRAPHY CALOPE STYLING AMARSANA GENDUNOVA HAIRSTYLIST & MAKEUP ARTIST DANIEL VAITOVIC AT FORD ARTIST PHOTO ASSISTANTS VAIYU LAW & OLIVIA SHAW MODEL LAUREN AT NEXT
A SECRET AFFAIR PHOTOGRAPHY LPH STYLING LATOYA HENRY
GLASSES MERCURA NYC CIGARETTE HOLDER MERCURA NYC CROP LEATHER JACKET FACTORY BY ERIK HART LACE BODYSUIT LOGAN NEITZEL CORSET WITH GARTERS FREDRICKS LACE THIGH HIGHS DKNY
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 227
BLOUSE NOMIA LEATHER PANT SHAPESHIFTR RING MARTINE ALI SOCKS GAP SHOES HEUTCHY FOR RICHARD CHAI
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 228
NECKLACE PEACE TREATY LACE DRESS AMY CLAIRE LACE THIGH HIGHS DKNY ANKLE BOOTIE RUTHIE DAVIS
WRAP DRESS JUMA CUFF BRACELET MARTINE ALI SHOES HEUTCHY FOR RICHARD CHAI
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 231
ZIP DRESS ELENE CASSIS CIGARETTE HOLDER MERCURA NYC GOLD CUFF BRACELET MARTINE ALI GLITTER PUMPS WALTER STEIGER
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 232
CROP LEATHER JACKET FACTORY BY ERIK HART LACE BODYSUIT LOGAN NEITZEL CORSET WITH GARTERS FREDRICKS LACE THIGH HIGHS DKNY ANKLE BOOTIE RUTHIE DAVIS
LEATHER TOP LOGAN NEITZEL SHEER DRESS SHAPESHIFTR LACE UNDERWEAR ABS SILVER CUFF MARTINE ALI LACE THIGH HIGHS DKNY ANKLE BOOTIE RUTHIE DAVIS
CUFF NECKLACE MARTINE ALI SHEER & SATIN DRESS LOGAN NEITZEL CUFF BRACELET MARTINE ALI ANKLE BOOTIE RUTHIE DAVIS
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 235
DRESS ELENE CASSIS RING MARTINE ALI GLITTER PUMPS WALTER STEIGER
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 236
LEATHER TOP LOGAN NEITZEL SHEER DRESS SHAPESHIFTR LACE UNDERWEAR ABS SILVER CUFF MARTINE ALI
DRESS ELENE CASSIS RING MARTINE ALI GLASSES MERCURA NYC
SHEER DRESS SHAPESHIFTR LACE THIGH HIGHS DKNY ANKLE BOOTIE RUTHIE DAVIS PHOTOGRAPHY LPH STYLING LATOYA HENRY HAIRSTYLIST & MAKE UP ARTIST NICOLE BLACKMAN MODEL TATJANA SINKEVICA AT MUSE MODEL MANAGEMENT
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 239
JIRI GELLER INTERVIEW LATOYA HENRY
His sculptures have captivated many from all over the world. From using popular pop culture icons, escalators, tsunamis and even ice cream cones. Finnish based artist Jiri Geller sculptures are more than what meets the eye, each piece that the artist creates has a strong significance behind it. Geller shares his perspective of his work and some new pieces we should look forward to in the future.
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 240
DUNKELHEIT 2007 13 X 13 X 21 CM PAINTED RESIN EDITION 3 PHOTOGRAPHY THE CENTRAL ART ARCHIVES, HELSINKI
PAY ON TIME MOTHERFUCKER 2007 5,5 X 17 X 9,5 CM PAINTED RESIN EDITION 3 PHOTOGRAPHY JANI MAHKONEN
When did you first discover that you wanted to be a artist and how did you decide sculpting was that path you wanted to take? I wanted an indoor job. In the early 90´s I was studying metal smithing. One chilly winter day me and another guy were unloading a truckload of metal bars, tubes and profiles – all kinds of heavy shit. That’s the day I decided I wanted an indoor job. Any indoor job. Later it turned out to be art. I remember seeing a book on HR Giger and found his sculptures much more fascinating than his paintings. Sculpture is more ‘here’ somehow. I felt that in 3-D I can go further. How would you describe your collection of work? My work is about our reliance on the security of materialism andmaterial existence.” They are metaphoric volumes. Technical perfection is required to pull my trick off – but I also want to make clear that I’m after unnaturalism rather than realism.
FUCKED 2008 6 X 11,5 X 19 CM PAINTED EPOXY PUTTY EDITION 3 PHOTOGRAPHY THE CENTRAL ART ARCHIVES HELSINKI
You have very interesting titles for your sculptures one of my favorites are “ Pay On Time Motherfucker “. Tell us how did you come up with concept and the title of this specific sculpture? A few years ago I was working with a big-shot gallerist from Stockholm. He was very slow about paying once a piece had been sold – often months and months. One day while being pissed-off about waiting, I got an idea about a kidnapping scene piece: Pay on Time Motherfucker.
How Long does it take for you to figure out a specific design and construct a sculpture? I was planning to send a picture of the piece to the gallerist as a `reminder´. As usual, my work It varies a lot depending on the piece. It can was slow, but I still managed to finish the piece take from days to years. I work hard to make it before receiving my payment. I had to send the look easy. picture.
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 243
Your work has a clean minimalist feel. Have you ever considered taking your sculptures into another direction? Gene Simmons once said that the name KISS comes from slogan “Keep it Simple Stupid”. I try to keep that in mind. When do you usually feel the most creative? Well, I must say I’m creative almost all the time – except when I’m pushed by deadlines. It becomes a downward spiral in that lack of time crimps creativity. Do you have any muses that inspire you or are you inspired by day to day events? It’s hard to specify. I might get a quick idea HAPPY TOGETHER 2008 92 X 57 X 50 CM PAINTED FIBERGLASS, STEEL, MAGNETS EDITION 3 from some TV program, but the idea could PHOTOGRAPHY THE CENTRAL ARTS ARCHIVES, HELSINKI come from practically anywhere. The result Tell me what is your attitude towards the new inspires me to work on the ideas, but anyone generation of artist? can have ideas. They come in a second but can take years to realize. I´ve held a few courses at the local art school. In general I think it is practically impossible to teach art, so I’ve defined my role as a strictly techniAs an artist what does expressionism mean cal teacher. During the years I’ve had an army of to you? young students as apprentices. Not much. My work is meant to look it’s made by machine.
What is a typical day like for you and what is one thing you enjoy most during your downtime?
What is the biggest challenge as a sculptor and are there struggles you have faced to I wake up around 8-9. I walk my dog to my stuget to where you are? dio, we eat. I work while the dog sleeps until I eat again around 12. If nobody drops by the dog Time. sleeps until it wakes up around 5pm, at which NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 244
DUNKELHEIT V 2007 29 X 29 X 35 CM PAINTED FIBERGLASS EDITION 3 PHOTOGRAPHY THE CENTRAL ART ARCHIVES, HELSINKI
WAY TO GO (BLACK) 2006 25 X 32 X 29CM PAINTED RESIN
SERIES OF DISAPPOINTMENTS 2008 7 X 18 X 30 CM PIGMENTED RESIN
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 247
DUNKELHEIT II 2007 13 X 13 X 21 CM PAINTED RESIN PHOTOGRAPHY THE CENTRAL ART ARCHIVES, HELSINKI
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 248
point it starts to look more and more pissed. Usually my lovely wife picks the dog up on her way home and I have a chance to work for a few hours more. Things I enjoy the most during my downtime? I can’t really choose between jogging and smoking. Who are some of your favorite artist? Chuck Berry, Carl Barks, David Lynch, Michelangelo, Pixar animation studios. Are there any new projects you are looking forward to working on? Now I’m sculpting light phenomenon; sparkles, fireworks, blazes. At the same time my mind is already on a new series titled F.T.W.
“I think it’s important to choose the media you really like. If you make it as an artist, it’s what you’ll do for all of your life.”
Plans for the future of Jiri Geller? My future plan is to wake up around 8-9. I’ll walk my dog to my studio, we’ll eat. I’ll work while the dog sleeps and the I’ll eat again around 12. If nobody drops by the dog will sleep until it wakes up around 5pm, at which point it will start to look more and more pissed. My lovely wife will probably pick the dog up on her way home and I’ll have a chance to work for a few hours more. Is there a piece of advice you could share with emerging artist? I think it’s important to choose the media you really like. If you make it as an artist, it’s what you’ll do WWW.JIRIGELLER.COM for all of your life.
MARIO HUGO INTERVIEW LATOYA HENRY
Known for his intriguing D&G anniversary artwork to his alluring floral prints created for Cushnie Et Ochs Spring/Summer 2011 collection that sashayed down the runway. Hugo has worked with several designers including Stella McCartney, Surface To Air and United Bamboo. Designer & illustrator Mario Hugo continues to inspire and capture our attention with his exotic creations that are simply magnificent.
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 251
THE KING AND PIE
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 252
For anyone who is not familiar with you or your work could you please give us a small introduction?
What type of effect do you hope your creations would have on people?
I guess I don’t believe in explicitly spellI live in New York where I work in direction, ing out work for my audience - I’d prefer design, and illustration and run a boutique the relationship be a bit more implicit studio called Hugo & Marie. I work in a few and intimate. I like the idea of creatdifferent media, but I feel most content with a ing work that is conversational. I’d like pencil and some found paper. to make stuff that an audience is asked to interpret, read into, and I’d like their explanations to become part of the work How would you describe your style of work in kind. three words? Tough one - I guess nostalgic, contemplative, Are any of your pieces inspired by cerand a bit psychedelic. tain events in your life? Where do you usually draw inspiration? From all over the place, honestly. I really like words - spoken, sung, extracted - titles usually predate my drawings and I love when short phrases conjure up big ideas. I really love great stories. In terms of artwork, I’m in love with folks like Ferdinand Hodler, Josef and Anni Albers, Bouguereau, and the list is endless. What is the secret of being a good artist?
Sure. I think there are overarching themes and consistent motifs in a lot of my work - memento moris, nature, light, etc. - and these are certainly influenced by events in my life. I think the more direct relationships are in the stories I like to explore, and my friends and family that sit for portraits. I like to draw people I know and exploring qualities and characteristics of theirs that are not purely aesthetic. It’s nice to spend time drawing people I know and love. “The King And Pie” is a very moving piece. Tell us about the techniques you used to create this particular piece?
I have no idea. I just like to see work made with love, and this isn’t quite as sentimental as it sounds - I just like to look at work that I trust is honestly contextualized by the life of I have been playing with fanciful retellthe artist. I think art is anything that transcends ings of famous stories and mythologies, its media. A painting isn’t art by virtue of be- and this piece is about Romulus and ing a painting, but it becomes a work of art Remus and the founding of Rome. I kind when it grows beyond its surface. A great story of ritualize finding old paper, because told over a nice dinner, or a whimsical motion; its almost like a drawing has to respect a these things can all become works of art with- paper’s history. It is created pretty simply out aspiring to be so. with graphite on found paper.
“The King And Pie” is a very moving piece. Tell us about the techniques you used to create this particular piece? I have been playing with fanciful retellings of famous stories and mythologies, and this piece is about Romulus and Remus and the founding of Rome. I kind of ritualize finding old paper, because its almost like a drawing has to respect a paper’s history. It is created pretty simply with graphite on found paper. I noticed you worked with a few inspirational designers. Who was the first designer you worked with and how was that experience? I was commissioned to work on illustrations for a book GB65 produced for Dolce & Gabbana back in 2006. I was far removed from the label itself, but I quite liked the way the project was treated - there really wasn’t much of a brief, and they essentially asked that I create artwork celebrating D&G’s tenth anniversary. I’ve since worked on various projects - everything from textiles, prints, jewelry, and digital direction for clients including Stella McCartney, Surface to Air, Cushnie et Ochs, Gucci, etc. I particularly love working on the more physical aspects of fashion, and I’d like to do more of it. Professionally, what is your goal as an artist? I’d like to explore the things that fascinate me and make work that I believe in. As an artist what does expressionism mean to you? I think expressionism is about saying the things we’d like - getting ideas and words out there
DOLCE & GABBANA
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 255
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 256
that enrich our lives, and hopefully we find an audience that likes them as well. You have a creative agency called Hugo & Marie, why did you decide to create a artist management agency and how did everything come into play? I’d been pretty ambivalent about working with agents myself, and I thought it’d be nice to start a business where my partner Jennifer [Marie] and I represent other artists with a real respect for what they do, an understanding of their concerns, and the opportunity to collabrate to bring larger projects to fruition.
So when you are looking for new creatives, what specific qualities are you for in an artist? There is no specific criteria, but we look for a certain spirit or quality in work that speaks to both Jennifer and I and fits with the nature of the agency. We hold portfolio reviews a few times throughout the year, and we’ve worked with close friends, acquaintances, and artists we’ve never met before - so it all depends. Could you tell us a bit about the artist who are a part of your agency? I’d say there is an energy or tone of voice running through each of the artist’s work that brings them together visually. Again, maybe it’s that same spirit, passion and dedication to their individual craft that draws everyone together, but I like to think all of the work stands DYMPHNA IN EFFIGY strongly on its own and works well in concert with the other artists’. NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 259
“Fall into holes you’ve got to learn to claw your way out of.” Each of the artists are independent directors, illustrators, and designers who focus on commercial work as well as personal exhibitions and publishing projects. I wouldn’t be doing what I do if I hadn’t been introduced to Deanne Cheuk’s work back in 2003 - she is amazing, and there is an energy her pieces share with Hisham Akira Bharoocha’s collage. Kustaa Saksi and Jules Julien both work digitally, but to completely different and stunning ends. Mike Perry, Merijn Hos, and Micah Lidberg create beautiful hand-crafted works with hints of some non-specific nostalgia. Are you currently working on any new projects or exhibitions? I’m working on new sleeves for ESP Institute, some digital work for fashion, and I’m planning on an exhibition of drawings next year over in the UK. Is there anything we should expect in the year 2012 for Mario Hugo? I’d like to do some stuff I’ve never done before. I wouldn’t mind finally learning how to paint. I might also like to play a bit with sculpture. The best piece of advice you’ve been given? Fall into holes you’ve got to learn to claw your way out of. NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 260
INA JANG INTERVIEW LATOYA HENRY
Minimalist, abstract, flawless and complex are a few ways to describe Ina Jang photography. Whether finding inspiration from a simple drawing or a note from her journal Jang creates two dimensional photographs full of infinite possibilities.
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 263
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 264
What lead you to the decision to become a photographer? I got a Lomo LC-A as a gift years ago, and I was obsessed with documenting everything around me everyday. Soon, I started coming up with stories and used my sister as a model and it became the center of my life. I was having too much fun and never was tired to photograph her. Eventually, I decided to move to New York to study photography. What are you currently working on at the moment and is there any specific projects you are looking forward to working on in the future? I am still working on the project “btwn”. I started as an exercise to challenge the way I photograph, but it became the work that I can spend most time with. It is slowly coming together, and I am discovering and learning so much in process of making each image. There are more ideas to be photographed and even more to be edited out.
phers, just to let myself have some more room to breathe in and feel free to create without comparing myself to others.
Being that said, my all time favorites are Thomas Demand and Stephen Frailey to name Meanwhile, I am also making images just to a couple. Thomas Demand was one of the first break myself away from the project. It is very photographer I fell in love with for simple important for me to hover around different reason of his use of paper and impeccable conideas and mediums to discover the bridge to the struction. I love the great humor and sophisnext image(or project). tication Stephen Frailey’s work provided me when I first came across his photographs. Both of them definitely made me even more excited Name some of your favorite photographers to push myself to find what I like and be able and how have they made a major influence on to have a conversation between my ideas and you and your work? photography as its medium. At the moment, I have a huge crush on Dutch photographers since I just had a delightful visit to Foam Museum in Amsterdam. I respect photographers who discovered their own language in the visually saturated world we live in. I try not to be too obsessed with certain photogra
Your work has a minimalist feel. Where do you usually find inspiration before you create a image? I find myself inspired in empty pages from my
journal. Every image I make starts from a simple drawing or a note from the journal. Which medium do you prefer to use and why? It depends on what image I plan to create, then the medium follows. In general, I love using medium format film camera. Do you have any muses and how do you decide on a certain subject to shoot? My recent work doesn’t have so much physical appearance of people, but I think of certain persona whether I photograph an object, a landscape or a person. It is something(one) secretive, evocative and exquisite. How would you describe you style of photography? I like them to be simple and elegant with slight quirkiness to it. If you could shoot anyone in the world from the past or present who would it be and why? Dinosaur; it’ll be just breathtaking to see it in person. In your opinion what is one thing that a photographer should take into consideration before shooting a subject? Catering. One should never be hungry at a shoot.
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 267
“‘Follow your heart’I remember being told in one of my very first classes at school years ago.” If you had to choose another career aside from being a photographer what would it be? Designer or Comedian. Future plans for Ina Jang? I am currently enrolled in MPS Fashion Photography at SVA ; for next few months, I would like to question my photographic identity even further. A few words of advice for emerging photographers? ‘Follow your heart’- I remember being told in one of my very first classes at school years ago. I think that it applies to no matter what people try to achieve in life and I certainly try to remind myself everyday. Especially photography is easily accessible to anyone more than ever, it is important to find what you really love in life that still gives butterflies in your stomach. NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 268
YUKI MINAMI INTERVIEW LATOYA HENRY
In 2010 he was noted as one of the 200 best illustrators worldwide in LĂźrzerâ€™s Archive. Creating images inspired by fashionably beautiful women, interior or lifestyle his remarkable illustrations are drawn by watercolor. Based Nagoya, Japan artist Yuki Minami uses one word to describe his work ultimacy.
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 271
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 272
What Inspired you to become an artist? When I first watched Aurore De La Morinerie’s arts because the artist painted in watercolors which I found to be COOL and BEAUTIFUL”. That is why I thought this is my way!!! I would like to be an illustrator and I have been using watercolors to paint since I started my art. Where do you find the most difficultly when illustrating a image? I never think that painting is difficult because I have always enjoyed painting which is the most important part of my art. If you could describe your work in one word what would it be? The beauty of ultimacy. Who are some of your favorite artist? I really love “MANGA”. Especially, AKIRA TORIYAMA “DRAGON BALL”. HIROHIKO ARAKI “JOJO NO KIMYOU NA BOUKEN”. TITE KUBO “BLEACH”. Is there anyone who has been a major influence on you and your work? I have met so many people that I cannot choose just one.
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 275
“When I meet a beautiful girl or I see a beautiful view I am inspired to work.” You use a beautiful mix of colors in your illustrations. How do you usually decide the balance of colors you want to use in your work? I imagine the color first before I start painting. Where do you find inspiration for your work? When I meet a beautiful girl or I see a beautiful view I am inspired to work. Are there any new exciting projects you’re working on at the moment? I am going to take place in a one-man show at a gallery in NAGOYA CITY this year. I have been painting for it. The concept is “LOVE STORY” It’s like a love story in the movie or something like that. What are your hopes for the future? I would like to collaborate with a fashion brand or a musician. Also, it would be great If I could work on a movie or TV program. NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 276
HIDDEN PLACE PHOTOGRAPHY HIRO KIMURA STYLING TORU NAGOSHI
DRESS ALBERTA FERRETTI JACKET GUCCI NECKLACE CHAN IUU
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 279
DRESS MUGLER BRACELETS MIU MIU SHOES NINA RICCI
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 280
DRESS JOHN GALLIANO MASK STYLIST OWN
BLOUSE PHILOSOPHY SHORTS AMERICAN APPAREL
PHOTOGRAPHY HIRO KIMURA STYLING TORU NAGOSHI HAIRSTYLIST TAKASHI YUSA MAKE UP ARTIST HONG B AGENCY LIGHTING TECHNICIAN KOKI TAKEZAWA MODEL ANDRESSA
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 283
B IS FOR BECKER PHOTOGRAPHY LERIAM GONZALEZ STYLING MIA TUCKER WILLIAMS
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 284
BOLERO ROYALE PLUTOCRACY
BOLERO ROYALE PLUTOCRACY MULTI-BAND QUARREL PANT PLUTOCRACY PEEP TOE BOOTIE TORY BURCH
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 287
SINGLE BREASTED BLAZER VANESSA BRUNO ORANGE FUR STOLE ZARA STEPH SILK PANT CANDELA FAUX SANKESKIN BOOTIES ZARA
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 288
RED SWEATER WITH SHOULDER CUTOUTS CHARLES HENRY POD SKIRT BEDFORD STREET LAUNDRY
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 291
NOELLA PONTE CUT-OUT DRESS MAISONETTE 1977 GLOVES LACRASIA SUPER OPAQUE TIGHTS HUE SUPER GOLD PLATFORMS DOLCE VITA
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 292
SUPER OPAQUE TIGHTS HUE
SEQUINNED PRINT SHIFT DRESS FRENCH CONNECTION
SILK GEORGETTE BLOUSE ADAM JERSEY PENCIL SKIRT TOPSHOP LEATHER GLOVES STYLIST OWN
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 295
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 296
RED SWEATER WITH SHOULDER CUTOUTS CHARLES HENRY POD SKIRT BEDFORD STREET LAUNDRY SUPER OPAQUE TIGHTS HUE SUEDE PLATFORM BOOTIES DOLCE VITA PHOTOGRAPHY/ RETOUCHER LERIAM GONZALEZ WWW.LPHPHOTO.COM STYLING MIA TUCKER WILLIAMS STYLING ASSISTANT ASHLEY JAEKLE HAIRSTYLIST JEN PAELMOG MAKE UP ARTIST CHRISTY DIANE SMITH MODEL BECKER AT RED MODEL MANAGEMENT
THE MODERN MAN PHOTOGRAPHY ANA-MONIQUE VELASQUEZ STYLING RENESSTA OLDS
ALL GARMENTS HENRIK & WOOD WOOD
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 299
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 300
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 303
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 304
PHOTOGRAPHY ANA-MONIQUE VELASQUEZ STYLING RENESSTA OLDS HAIRSTYLIST & MAKE UP ARTIST MARINA GUIDOS MODEL COREY WINNER
PHOTOGRAPHY BIEL PARKLEE STYLING JOHN-MARK JOHN-MARK WRITES
SHIRT JANET ZHENG NECKLACE GOOD WOOD NYC BRACELETS ALDO
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 307
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 308
SHIRT JANET ZHENG NECKLACE GOOD WOOD NYC
y interest in men’s jewelry began with a conversation I had with stylist Angel Yang. When talking about the disparity between men’s and women’s fashion, Angel stated, “The fun part about styling men is the accessories that everyone always forgets about. A lot of men only relate accessories to females, but necklaces, bracelets, rings, and eyeglasses are also great for men.” It is true; accessories go a long way in completing a welldressed look. When it comes to casual dressing, men who don’t accessorize look inherently underdressed standing next to a woman whose put half the effort into her outfit. Jewelry has been adopted as a daily necessity to the everyday female’s casual look. Why, as men, have we left our necks and wrists so bare? Have we subconsciously characterized jewelry as a feminine noun? noun?
In my quest for masculine jewelry, I found myself particularly attracted to the Brooklyn-based company Good Wood NYC. Founded in 2007, the company specializes in hand-painted and wood engraved product. With great casual pieces that make a fashionable statement, Good Wood NYC carries a variety of aesthetics, from ferocious panda and lion necklaces, to more simple wooden beads and carved leaves. For a sleeker look, stores like Guess and Aldo also have some great jewelry options for men. There is a particular popularity with objects found in nature and neutral colors when it comes to men’s accessories. From leaves and branches to tans and browns, the neutrality of men’s jewelry should make it that much easier to incorporate into ones daily wardrobe. Whether you’re looking for a bright red cassette to match your playful enthusiasm or a dark wristband to subtly match your belt, there is simply no excuse to shy away from the opportunity to give your look that extra punch. To be beyond indicative of my editorial’s intentions, I will close with an open letter: Dear Men Of The World, No longer shall we go to a casual lunch in a shirt and jeans, while our female counterparts deck out in skirts, shirts, vest, necklaces, rings, earrings, and bracelets. It is time to begin closing the fashion gap between our genders and the incorporation of men’s jewelry is a step in the right direction. Accessorize Guyz! Sincerely, John-Mark Features Editor Nu-Mode Magazine
SHIRT JANET ZHENG NECKLACE GOOD WOOD NYC PANTS JANET ZHENG
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 311
HAT H&M SHIRT JANET ZHENG NECKLACE GOOD WOOD NYC
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 312
SHIRT JANET ZHENG NECKLACE GOOD WOOD NYC BRACELET GOOD WOOD NYC
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 315
SUNGLASSES SOUVENIR SHOP NECKLACE & BRACELET ALDO SHIRT JANET ZHENG PANT H&M
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 316
SHIRT JANET ZHENG WRISTBAND GUESS NECKLACE GUESS BELT ZARA WRISTBAND H&M
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 318
SHIRT JANET ZHENG WRISTBAND GUESS NECKLACE GUESS BELT ZARA DENIM JEANS H&M
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 319
PHOTOGRAPHY BIEL PARKLEE STYLING JOHN-MARK PHOTO ASSISTANT SARAH SUBER STYLING ASSISTANT KRISTINA LEZHEPEKOVA MODELS NIC AT COLBY & DAMION AT ORB
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 320
TIMBER PHOTOGRAPHY JON STARS STYLING JORDANA RABINOWITZ
SWEATER J.CREW PANT TOPSHOP SOCKS J.CREW BOOTS H&M
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 323
VEST HILFIGER DENIM SWEATER J.CREW SHORTS ARITZIA TRAPPER HAT H&M
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 324
SWEATER H&M PANT ZARA SCARF STYLIST OWN SUEDE GLOVES VINTAGE
CARDIGAN STYLIST OWN SOCKS J.CREW BOOTS TOPSHOP
JACKET H&M FLANNEL MAJE PANT ZARA
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 327
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 328
JACKET ARITZIA SHORTS TOPSHOP KNIT/LEATHER GLOVES MADEWELL PHOTOGRAPHY JON STARS STYLING JORDANA RABINOWITZ HAIRSTYLIST JALIL SORRELL MAKE UP ARTIST KAT STERRETT MODEL ANASTASIA EREMENKO
TROIKA PHOTOGRAPHY ERIC ACQUAYE STYLING JOHN-MARK
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 331
ON ADRIEN:SHIRT&COAT NINH COLLECTION NECKLACE GUESS ON STUART:VEST NINH COLLECTION ON ANASTASIAYA: SHIRT NINH COLLECTION BLAZER ZARA
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 332
ON ADRIEN:CLOTHING NINH COLLECTION NECKLACE GUESS SHOES CALVIN KLEIN BRACELET TOPSHOP ON STUART:CLOTHING NINH COLLECTION BOOTS ALEXANDRE PLOKHOV ON ANASTASIYA: SHIRT NINH COLLECTION BLAZER ZARA TIGHTS HUE SHOES ZIGI SOHO
ON ANASTASIAYA:LACE TOP ZARA PANT URBAN JUNGLE ON STUART: COAT & PANT NINH COLLECTION ON ADRIEN: COAT & PANT NINH COLLECTION NECKLACE VINTAGE BRACELET NEEKA
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 335
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 336
ON STUART:CLOTHING NINH COLLECTION ON ANASTASIYA: COAT NINH COLLECTION EARRINGS ALDO NECKLACE GUESS SHORTS KARINA SHOES ZIGI SOHO ON ADRIEN:PANT NINH COLLECTION
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 339
PHOTOGRAPHY ERIC ACQUAYE STYLING JOHN-MARK HAIRSTYLIST & MAKE UP ARTIST CHRISTYNA KAY STYLING ASSISTANT KRISTINA LEZHEPEKOVA PRODUCTION ASSISTANT EMELIEM OGBOLU ART DIRECTION JOHN-MARK MODELS ADRIEN, STUART, ANASTASIYA AT AGENCY MODEL MANAGEMENT VERY SPECIAL THANKS TO HARUKO
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 340
HELIOS AND LUNA RENESSTA OLDS WRITES
odern, feminine and luxurious Helios & Luna fashions spring from Patricia Clyne’s creative mind. She’s a visionary designer who believes in delighting the eye with fresh color and surprising silhouettes, while providing impeccable quality and fit. Patricia insists on the best for our customers. A member of the Council of Fashion Designers of America, Patricia began making her own clothes at the age of 10. Before she turned 25, she launched her own company, saw her creations celebrated in Vogue, sold in Saks Fifth Avenue and Bergdorf Goodman, and sought after by the Smithsonian Institution for its Costume Collection. Today, Patricia dedicates her talents to elevating the Helios & Luna brand. Her inspiration drawn from conversations with her girlfriends as well as what’s new on Parisian runways. “My muse is the well-dressed woman. Anywhere I see her, I take note.” Her spring collection is lifestyle chic and is all about the details and shapes. The collection ranges in a combination of classic black and white to bursts of color in spring green, azure and magenta. R.O NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 343
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 344
â€œMy muse is the well-dressed woman. Anywhere I see her, I take note.â€?
BROOKLYN BLEU INTERVIEW KAI-LEE PARKER
Tenisha Light- Caba is the owner of Brooklyn Bleu, which is an ultra chic appointment only boutique in Bed Stuy. I had the pleasure of attending a swanky shopping soiree where I snagged a vintage hunter green blouse, had some champagne that Tenisha serves all her clients, enjoyed some tasty treats and met other fabulous women. I had a few questions for Tenisha about her budding business...
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 347
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 348
What inspired you to start Brooklyn Bleu? I felt that it was time to give women an alternative shopping experience. I’ve always been inspired by high fashion vintage clothing, because I like to rock unique and timeless pieces. I created Brooklyn Bleu because I felt there were many fashion forward women, like myself, who would appreciate the access to original and select pieces that no one else is wearing. The showroom is by appointment and referral, which offers a laid back and intimate shopping experience. When it comes to acquiring vintage pieces, what are things shoppers should look for in terms of quality vs quantity? Quality is essential. I like to think of buying high quality items as an investment. A nicely tailored suit will last for years and will bring more enjoyment and satisfaction over keeping up with the trends. For example, we have a vintage Dior suit Brooklyn Bleu treasures. My sister shops on in pristine condition. All of the items are well the west coast and I have established great preserved. relationships in my community. Each item tells a story that we share with our clients What are some of your favorite pieces that you during their shopping experience. have collected over the years? There have been so many! Right now, there are a few pieces that I’m in love with. I have an amazing Halston hat, old Hollywood WhiteRitter Bros. mink stole, Pierre Cardin clutch, and too many fabulous vintage jewelry pieces to name. My latest obsession is vintage collar necklaces! How do you find all of your vintage pieces? My creative eye is always open! Every time I leave the house is an opportunity to find more
At what age were you introduced to vintage clothing? By high school I was wearing my grandmother’s gold chain belts (which I still wear) and shopping at Slash in Berkeley, CA for vintage Levis. Brooklyn Bleu takes me back to when all of my girlfriends would get dressed and styled at my house before going out. I’ve incorporated that same spirit in the business bringing all my clients together each season for an evening of shopping and cocktails. It’s so much fun!
You operate ‘by appointment’ only, why did you choose to go this route as opposed to having a traditional storefront? I wanted to provide the ideal shopping experience where everyone felt they were taken care of. There’s no waiting in line, competition, or having to carry the load from your day on your shoulders as you shop (everyone wears huge bags). At Brooklyn Bleu, you unload. You can relax on a comfy 1950s chaise while taking in the historic architecture of the space. I love to run through the racks pulling out items while sharing the history on each piece and the fabric quality. In 5 years I see Brooklyn bleu Expanding to the west coast. I have a lot of clients, family and friends who say there is definitely a need for a Brooklyn Bleu in Cali. What is your advice to aspiring vintage boutique owners? Less is more...in many vintage boutiques the stores are overcrowded and customers don’t know where to start shopping. I’d suggest making shopping for vintage easy and fun and to display items in a fresh, classic, and exciting way. Your clothes should have movement on the racks, and not be too fussy. One of the biggest tips I learned was to use items for sale to display other items. Wrap a belt for sale around a dress to give it more shape or throw a mink fur around a the collar of a leather jacket or vest. You should stage your items to inspire your clients.
“I’d suggest making shopping for vintage easy and fun and to display items in a fresh, classic, and exciting way.”
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 351
BOMBSHELL ROW JOHN-MARK WRITES PHOTOGRAPHY ERIC ACQUAYE & PHOTOGRAPHY DANIEL RAMPULLA
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 352
PHOTOGRAPHY ERIC ACQUAYE
PHOTOGRAPHY DANIEL RAMPULLA
It was a Monday night, like any other. After spend“I love having a group of ing all day at work or school, Keisha, Felonie, and Skyee leave their ordinary lives behind and head to girls, friends, who share a 41st street studio for a rigorous dance rehearsal, your interest and are walkpart of their pursuit of an extraordinary dream. After, they boarded the A train to Brooklyn for a ing forward with you in the promotional video shoot, which is then followed same direction. It makes by my interview with them and a photo session for Nu-Mode Magazine. This is just one day in the you that much stronger than life of Bombshell Row. In addition to their daily doing it by yourself. It’s responsibilities, the girls spend multiple evenings every week in the recording studio, dance studio, great to have a sisterhood.” and training with their vocal coach. Having had the opportunity to observe Bombshell Row, their my- Skyee entered the dance studio with smiles and hugs. Currently singing lead on one of opic drive to succeed is anything but subtle. their first singles, she has big hair to match a big personality, “I love having a group of I was first introduced to Bombshell Row three girls, friends, who share your interest and months ago when I was brought on to be their are walking forward with you in the same dance choreographer for upcoming music videos and live performances. Getting to see the develop- direction. It makes you that much stronger ment and formation of a girl group has been both than doing it by yourself. It’s great to a fascinating and entertaining process. While I am have a sisterhood.” The sisterhood Skyee only their dance maker, I am truly invested in their referenced is apparent in the way the girls success and I wholeheartedly believe in the quality rehearse. Contrary to the network televiof work they are producing. Far beyond the glam- sion representation of a girl group, which our of photo shoots and interviews, as their dance is often one big reality show catfight, Bombshell Row are a group of sweet hard instructor, I have been witness to the true work working ladies who have proven to handle ethic these women bring to their craft. conflict with maturity and compassion. The dance rehearsal studio is in the basement of a large windowless building. A wall of mirrors face the Bombshells, who often begin practice by staring into it and remembering new choreography. Keisha is always the first to arrive. The sweetheart of the group, Keisha began singing in a Methodist church choir, “I was always this shy girl and I didn’t want anyone to hear me until I got to be eighteen… there’s no need to by shy anymore.” Keisha has also had the longest relationship with the group’s manager, Tafari Collins, and played a key role in bringing the group together. “I called Skyee. I told her about this project that Tafari had going on. I also grew up with Felonie.”
When asked about the challenges of handling a girl group as opposed to a solo act, the Bombshell’s manager Tafari Collins confessed, “Putting together a group of young ladies from different areas of New York, with different ideals and having them work together as a sisterhood does not happen overnight. However, these ladies have proven that it can be done. While there have been numerous challenges, they have shown that even though they’ve only been together four months, their bond and dedication to one another surpasses that.” NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 355
Tafari, who heads up C.O.A. Entertainment along with his partner Natasha Chambers, has an undying confidence in the girl’s talent and ability, “Bombshell Row is different from any other group in that they are not afraid to step out the box when it comes to their craft. They are not trying to be labeled as a R&B or Hip Hop group. Each member brings a distinct writing and sound to the group.” Tafari has an admirably rare management style, with a genuine desire to give Bombshell Row the tools to manage themselves, “The ladies also write all of their own material and play a pivotal part in their artistry.” Tafari is most definitely doing things right. Hearing the girls talk about their music, there is a genuine sense of pride and ownership. Bombshell Row’s involvement in nearly all aspects of their music makes their commitment all the more impressive. The group’s youngest member, Felonie, agreed that being in the group is more than just a hobby, “My friends now go, “You don’t have time for me. You’re always going to rehearsal. Why don’t you hang out with us?” This is the price of being part of Bombshell Row, but for these passionate women, the cost is well worth it, “When have a dream, there is no impossible. We’ve come across people who wanted it, but they didn’t want it as bad as we did. We’re here every week and we work really hard towards it. It’s as simple as that.” J.M.
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 356
HAVE TO LEAVE PHOTOGRAPHY BENJO ARWAS STYLING LING HANG
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 359
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 360
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 363
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 364
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 367
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 368
PHOTOGRAPHY & ART DIRECTOR BENJO ARWAS STYLING, HAIRSTYLIST & MAKE UP ARTIST LINA HANG MODEL JULIANA GILES AT POSH MODELS LA
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 371
PHOTOGRAPHY JULIE DICKINSON STYLING KAI-LEE PARKER
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 372
FEATHER BOLERO BLAQUE LABEL
LEATHER JACKET MAISONETTE 1977 LEATHER SHORTS BLAQUE LABEL THIGH HIGH BOOTS NINA
LEATHER JACKET MAISONETTE 1977 RINGS LARUCCI NECKLACE LARUCCI
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 375
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 376
TIE STYLIST OWN BLAZER BLAQUE LABEL TROUSERS LUNA SHOES NINA
BELT USED AS SKIRT MAISONETTE 1977 FEATHER SKIRT BLAQUE LABEL NECKLACE AMI CLUBWEAR
BELT USED AS SKIRT MAISONETTE 1977 FEATHER SKIRT BLAQUE LABEL NECKLACE AMI CLUBWEAR SHOES NINA
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 379
NET DRESS CAMILLA RING AMI CLUBWEAR SHOES NINA
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 380
NET DRESS CAMILLA RING AMI CLUBWEAR NECKLACE CIRCA SIXTY THREE
DRESS BLAQUE LABEL NECKLACE CIRCA SIXTY THREE SHOES NINA
TOP JOSE DURAN BRACELETS FLIRT CATALOG PHOTOGRAPHY JULIE DICKINSON STYLING KAI-LEE PARKER HAIRSTYLIST & MAKE UP ARTIST TANYA MILFORD MODEL KAYLA MAYHEW AT PAINTED FACES
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 383
DAYDREAMING OF ETERNAL
Bliss PHOTOGRAPHY LPH STYLING LATOYA HENRY
SHEER SHIRT EGGCREAM NECKLACE NAKED LABEL
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 385
CAGE HOOD CHROMAT GARMENTS NECKLACE NAKED LABEL SHEER SHIRT EGGCREAM LEATHER SKIRT WITH TULLE LIE SANG BONG
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 386
BOTH NECKLACES DLC DIRTY LIBRARIAN CHAINS WOOL FEDORA ZARA DRESS CORRELL CORRELL LEATHER CORSET BELT LOGAN NEITZEL
WHITE PRINT SHIRT STUDY CHAMBRAY CROPPED SHIRT STUDY BUSTIER BEDFORD STREET LAUNDRY SKIRT BEDFORD STREET LAUNDRY COIL NECKLACE COLD PICNIC TOLTEC BRACELET DLC DIRTY LIBRARIAN CHAIN HAMMERED BANGLE ELIZABETH KNIGHT CAVE BANGLE SPECIES BY THE THOUSANDS SHOES THE OFFICE OF ANGELA SCOTT
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 389
COLOR BLOCK TOP JULIAN LOUIE SKIRT BEDFORD STREET LAUNDRY TOLTEC NECKLACE DLC DIRTY LIBRARIAN CHAINS KNEE HIGH SOCKS AMERICAN APPAREL SHOES THE OFFICE OF ANGELA SCOTT
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 390
WHITE SHIRT BEDFORD STREET LAUNDRY COAT LIE SANG BONG PRINTED PANT STUDY
KNIT WOOL COAT CORRELL CORRELL BRAIDED SCARF SPRATTERS & JAYNE LACE TOP BHON LACE PANT BHON RING SPECIES BY THE THOUSANDS
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 393
WOOL FEDORA ZARA BLOUSE MISSONI NECKLACE NAKED LABEL PANT LIE SANG BONG
PHOTOGRAPHY LPH STYLING LATOYA HENRY HAIRSTYLIST & MAKE UP ARTIST NICOLE BLACKMAN MODEL TATSIANA AT FENTON MOON
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 394
FROM W A T E R T O W A L PHOTOGRAPHY ALEXANDRA L. FRUMBERG & JOSEPH CHEN STYLING ANI HOVHANNISYAN
L LOOKS LEFT-RIGHT
DRESS BCBG SHOES CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN SMOKING JACKET AQUA PANT RACHEL ZOE SHOES CALVIN KLEIN
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 397
DRESS BCBG SHOES CALVIN KLEIN
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 398
ALL GARMENTS CANDELA SHOES VALENTINO
(GIRL ON LEFT)
DRESS DIANE VON FURSTENBURG SHOES CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN (GIRL ON RIGHT)
ALL GARMENTS CANDELA SHOES VALENTINO
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 401
MAKE UP ARTIST ANGELA RAFAELA (LOOKS LEFT-RIGHT) LACE DRESS CANDELA SHOES SAM EDELMAN SHIFT DRESS CANDELA SHOES DKNY BLAZER HELMUT LANG PANT CANDELA SHEER DRESS CANDELA SHOES SAM EDELMAN
PHOTOGRAPHY ALEXANDRA L. FRUMBERG & JOSEPH CHEN STYLING ANI HOVHANNISYAN HAIRSTYLIST EBONE´ ALLOWAY MAKE UP ARTIST AYINDE´ CASTRO FOR FACEBEATER USING STILA COSMETICS MODELS AUBREY WILDER, BRIE HARDING, ANASTASIYA SIRO, TESA VERY SPECIAL THANKS TO “MINAS SHOE REPAIR SHOP,” WALL STREET NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 402
N U - M O D E´ AUTUMN / WINTER 2011-12
WomenTrends. RENESSTA OLDS WRITES
ALICE + OLIVIA
For all you 80’s and 90’s kids that never heard of Studio 54 or seen a disco movie with John Travolta take notes. This trend, LA Vintage takes us back to Halston and Stephen Burrows. Google them if you not sure who they are. R.O
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 405
MARC BY MARC JACOBS
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 406
A pleasant surprise on the runway was a return to ladylike silhouettes: dresses, pencils skirts, bows oh my! From Marc by Marc Jacobs to Alberta Ferretti your grandmother is going to be so proud of you. Rock your ladylike confection with a touch of edge to keep it young and modern. R.O
MOD SQUAD BALENCIAGA
Mad Men, I love it! So enter the trend Mod Squad which is a wonderful visit down memory lane to the 60’s. I can’t wait to see all of the cosmopolitan girls all over the world sourcing these fab pieces in their favorite vintage stores. R.O
N U - M O D E´ AUTUMN / WINTER 2011-12
Men Trends. JOHN-MARK WRITES
BLACK LEATHER COAT
It may be over fifty years since James Dean donned a black leather coat in Rebel Without a Cause, but this dark aesthetic is still hitting the fashion scene in new and inventive ways. Wether it’s loose, fitted, patent, or pleather, these coats cater to the bad boy look that’s here to stay. J.M.
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 409
NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 410
There is more than one way to break up a pattern. Kenzo, Philip Lim, and Alexander Wang have shown a particularly fascinating way to shift the pattern mid-pantleg. J.M.
JEAN PAUL GAULTIER
D&G DOLCE & GABBANA
OVERSIZED COMFORT VERSACE
Somewhere between the baggy pants of the 1990’s and the Samuri inspired drop crotches of the late 2000’s, exists today’s trend of light loose fitting pants. A direct opposition to the weight and constriction of denim, these bottoms have bonded an unlikely harmony between high fashion and comfort. J.M.
SPECIAL THANKS Florent Belda, CJ Swanton & Eduardo Morales, NaNa Lee & April Oh , Gloria Li Chen, Erin Kochanin, Jessica Goldfond , Rachel Cohen Lunning & Merrilee Lichtenstein , Stephanie & Anna, Martine Ali, Meghan, Virginia Craddock, Vera Correll & Daphne Correll, Brian Cahill Photography Leriam Gonzalez WWW.LPGPHOTO.COM
STOCKLIST Costume National Comme Des Garcons RAD by Rad Hourani Janet Zheng Good Wood NYC PUMA by Hussein Chalayan Lundstrom Collection Eliza Kozurno Ports1961 BCBG Max Azria Heutchy for Richard Chai Amy Claire Basch by Brandon Dwyer ROXX Mimoza DUY Sam Edelman Jie-Euen Choi Take Off Your Clothes Plomo Devaue Jacci Jaye Yaaserwaah By Akuoku MINI Market Helmut Lang Cody Sai Maria Severyna Kal Rieman Alibi H&M Aldo Guess TopMan Topshop LF stores LESS jewelry Suburban Groove Forever 21 Splendid Eggcream Georgie Soho Hearts Vito Emanule American Apparel
Alberta Ferretti Gucci Chan Luu Mugler Miu Miu Nina Ricci John Galliano Philosophy Yohji Yamamoto Agatha Dolce & Gabbana Lanvin NINH Collection Zara Calivn Klein Alexandre Plokhov Hue Urban Jungle Zigi Soho Neeka J. Crew Hilfiger Denim Aritzia Maje Madewell Blaque Label Maisonette 1977 Nina LaRucci Luna Ami Clubwear Camilla Circa Sixty Threee Jose Duran James Hock Vivienne Westwood Dr Marten Cheap Monday Agi & Sam Monki Elene Cassis Cursive Design Ruthie Davis Martine Ali
Alexander Wang Cos Rachel Freire Paulina Undziakiewicz Plutocracy Tory Burch Vanessa Bruno Candela Charles Henry Bedford Street Laundry LaCrasia Dolce Vita French Connection Adam Asos Diesel Michael by Michael Kors Henrik Vibskov Wood Wood Gabby Applegate Lynn Pullman Christian Dior Chromat Garments Lie Sang Bong Dirty Librarian Chains Logan Neitzel Correll Correll Julian Louie Cold Picnic The Office Of Angela Scott Missoni Elizabeth Knight Study Species by The Thousands Bhon Spratters & Jayne Naked Label Abigail Stewart Peace Treaty Juma Factory By Erik Hart Shapeshiftr Mercura Nyc Nomia NU-MODE´ THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE L’ EXPRESSIONNISTE 413
NU-MODE´ THANKS EVERYONE FOR MAKING OUR FIRST YEAR POSSIBLE WE WILL CONTINUE TO GROW EVEN STRONGER!