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U 2008

The Pint Sized Collection Sized Front Closing Diapers Sizes: NB SM MD LG

Skill Level: Intermediate

Š GUERILLA FLUFF LLC.


Contents 4

Quick Into Introduction, Getting Started

5

Anatomy of a Cloth Diaper

6

The Fun!-damentals 7

The Basics

9

The Fabrics

15

The Notions

Equipment Musts, Notions Musts

Weights, Fabric Types, Handling Your Fabric, Pre-Wash Chart, Cutting Your Fabric

Closures, Elastic, Using & Making the Patterns

17 Sew it Up! Sewing AIO Diapers, Sewing Pocket Diapers, Sewing Fitteds, Sewing Covers Sewing the Soakers

43 Patterns

Newborn, Small, Medium, Large

62 Resources


A Quick Introduction Hi There! I wanted to take a moment and thank you for purchasing this Guerilla U pattern. I have no doubt that you will make beautiful fluff with it no matter what your current sewing level is. This pattern was YEARS in the making with lots of testing, lots of reading feedback and lots of tweaking. So I really do hope you enjoy it as much as I did making it. This pattern is a bit more than your usual sewing pattern. It is more than just a set of sewing instructions; it is an in depth explanation on sewing cloth diapers. This pattern covers everything from the equipment needed, how to handle your diaper making fabrics, it even covers the notions necessary to make a well fit, functional diaper. My goal with this pattern was to create something so comprehensive that even someone new to sewing could follow it and complete it successfully. And I sincerely hope that you share you creations in the Guerilla U FLICKR group so that we can spotlight it on the Guerilla Fluff website. One thing that you will note is that the tone of writing in this pattern is very personal. I wrote it as if we were in the same room having a conversation with one another. The reason for this is because I am not a robot and I’m terrible at sounding like one. So you will see the occasional “awesomeness” pop up every now and again. OK, I think I’ve yacked your ‘ear’ off enough lets get to sewing some fluff huh?! Remember, have fun sewing your fluff, don’t be ashamed to brag and if you have any questions just post it on the Guerilla U Forum I’m here to help you succeed.

3


Getting Started This pattern allots for a 1/4” seam allowance on cut line and a 1/2” seam allowance on serge line.

Ok, the first rule of fight club is that you don’t talk about Fight Club...oh wait, wrong context... well the first rule of sewing a cloth diaper is DON’T PANIC. The second rule of sewing a cloth diaper is TAKE YOUR TIME; its not a race. If you get frustrated just walk away for a bit and come back when you’re ready. Your project will be eagerly waiting for you. The third and final rule is, HAVE FUN. If its not fun then what’s the point right? So now I’m going to break this pattern down a bit for you because its length may seem a bit intimidating. Part 1 of this pattern is completely dedicated to the fundamentals of sewing a cloth diapers including; the fabrics and notions you’d use, how to cut out your fabric, & how to use the patterns. The second part provides the instructions on how to make an All-in-One (AIO) diaper, a Pocket diaper, a Fitted diaper as well as a Diaper Cover. It must be mentioned that the methods that this pattern explains (turned & topstitched, serged and bound) can be used interchangably for any diaper style your imagination can think of. So let your creative juices run free. I’ve also included a few charts of suggestion fabric combinations for each style. Part three is reserved exclusively for the patterns. It is important to note that YOU DO NOT NEED TO PRINT THE ENTIRE PATTERN. Part 4 is a list of resources provided to help you find the supplies mentioned within this pattern. At the time this pattern is completed (2013) I have personally purchased from each of those websites and can vouch for their professionalism and fabric/notion selections. A litte note about selling things that are made with this pattern; if you think you can do it go ahead. Just don’t do it on a mass production level. A mention of the pattern in your listing would be much appreciated, giving credit where credit is due and all. :-)

How to Print & Assemble the Patterns 1. Choose your Size 2. Print the Pattern - When printing your pattern you only need to print out the size(s) that you need. -Make sure your printer settings are as follows: -Auto-rotate & center -Actual Size (or set page scaling to ‘none’) *make sure that the fit to page setting is not checked!** 3. Once pattern is printed line up the pieces according to the matching letters (A,B,C) *you do not need to print of the instructions part, you can just keep the PDF up on your computer and refer to it as needed while you sew*

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All diapers consist of 3 major compnents to make it functional; a shell, a soaker (or insert) and a closure. Seperately, they’re pretty much useless but together they create a little piece of eco-friendly awesomeness. So as long as you have those 3 parts when you complete your cloth diaper project you will have nice new fluff to put on your baby’s bottom.

5


Before you ready, set, sew you must make sure you have the proper materials and equipment. Not sure what that may be? Never fear we’ll tell you exactly what you need (and even a few extra things that are cool to have).

6


The Basics If you’re anything like I am when first starting a new project or craft, you want to have the best of everything, and all of it...at once. But the great thing about sewing cloth diapers is that you don’t need to have the most expensive tricked out sewing machines with all the stitches and the multiple feet and whatever doodads companies add on to them. Heck, you don’t even need a serger (but they sure are nice to have). The main supplies you need to sew anything from this patter are fabric, a sewing machine, thread and your creative spirit. That’s it really. But I’ve included a list of 26 essentials of equipment and notions that I think are important to have on hand to both complete the projects successfully and also make your like much, much easier.

Equipment Musts 1

Sewing machine w/ assorted feet

12 Pin Cushion

2

Sewing machine needles

13 Lighter

- zig zag foot & zipper foot

-for different fabrics (preferably ballpoints)

3

Seam Ripper

4

60” Tape Measurer

5

Fabric Scissors

6

Paper Scissors

7

Ruler

8

Air Soluble/Water Soluble Pen

9

Tape

10 Quilting Pins

-used to stop fraying on PUL

Things That Are Great To Have 14 Walking foot

-Helps stop fabric from shifting while sewing

15 Trimming Scissors 16 Clear 18” Quilters Ruler 17 Rotary Cutter 18 Cutting Mat 19 Serging Machine (Serger)

11 Pattern Weights

7


Notions Musts 1

Touchtape/Diapermakers Tape

7

Awl

2

Plush 1” Fold Over Elastic (FOE)

8

Thread: Polyester/wooly nylon

3

1/4” Polybraid Elastic

9

Pre-wound bobbins

4

Nylon Coil Zippers lengths

10 Darning Needle

-Size 1.5” both hook and loop

-In assorted lengths for wetbags

5

Size 20 Plastic Snaps

6

Snap Pliers or Snap Press

-Use serger thread for serger machines -Lots of them

A bit of a disclaimer... Now it must be said that this is not the end-all-be-all list of things needed to sew cloth diapers depending on where your imagination takes you. You made need more or you may use less but this is a very good basic list of items you should have on hand when sewing a Guerilla U Pattern.

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The Fabrics Fun Fact! I am a fabric-aholic. There is nothing that makes me happier than walking aimlessly through the fabric section of a craft store or receiving a yummy new fabric print in my mailbox. The great thing about sewing cloth diapers is that you can use almost anything to make one. But the catch is, you need to have the right combination of fabrics depending on the style of diaper to have it function how you need it to. I’ve provided a list of the most commonly used fabrics for cloth diapers with their pros and cons.

Weights Sometimes when shopping for fabrics they will be listed by weights as well as names and this is important to know when sewing cloth diapers because it will allow you to rule out what is and isn’t suitable for a diaper. For instance, anything that’s classified as very light weight is NOT suitable for a diaper because it will not be able to withstand the constant washings a cloth diaper requires. And it is because of the constant washings that you ideally want to stick with mid-weight and heavy weight fabrics. And the best part about this is that there are several online fabric stores that cater specifically to diaper makers so they will already have the correct fabrics for in you a section of its own (or even the entire site!).

Very Light Weight: under 1 oz. per yard Lightweight: 2-3 oz. per yard. Mid-Weight: 5-7 oz. per yard. Heavy Weight: more than 7 oz. per yard

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Fabric Types The type of fabric you use totally depends on the style of diaper you would like to make as well as you and your baby’s needs. Here’s a list of the most commonly used fabrics for cloth diapers, their pros and cons as well as the style of diaper you could use them for. A general rule of thumb is that knit fabrics are better when sewing cloth diapers because it has a much greater stretch to it than a woven fabric. providing a diaper with a longer fit range than one made with woven fabrics. Now, I’m not saying to never use wovens because honestly, the coolest prints are in fact woven fabris (i.e. quilters cotton). Just know that when you use a woven your baby will most likely grow out of a diaper that has a woven print fabric quicker thank if it were made with all knit fabrics. Bamboo (Also known as Rayon from Bamboo/Bamboo Rayon)** Pros: Comfortable, absorbent, breathable, stays softer longer than cotton or hemp, great for fitteds and diaper soakers/inserts Cons: It stains easily, it must be prepped more to reach full absorbency, slightly more expensive than cotton, moderate drying time Common Bamboo Rayon Fabrics used for Cloth Diapers: * Fleece: Used for diaper shells, diaper soakers & inserts * Jersey: Used for diaper shells *Rib: Used for diaper shells * Terry: (i.e. baby terry or double sided terry) Used for diaper shells, diaper soakers & inserts *Velour: Used for diaper shells and as a topper on diaper soakers Cotton Pros: Comfortable, absorbent, breathable, durable, great for fitteds and diaper soakers &inserts Cons: High shrinkage rate, more readily available, moderate drying time Common Cotton Fabrics used for Cloth Diapers: *Birdseye: Used for diaper shells, diaper soakers & inserts, prefolds, flat diapers * Fleece: Used for diaper shells, diaper soakers & inserts *French Terry: Used for diaper shells, diaper soakers & inserts * Interlock: (usually as a print) Used for diaper shells * Jersey: (usually as a print) Used for diaper shells *Rib: (usually as a print) Used for diaper shells *Sherpa: Used for diaper shells, diaper soakers & inserts * Terry: Used for diaper shells, diaper soakers & inserts *Velour: Used for diaper shells and as a topper on diaper soakers

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**There is NO SUCH THING as Organic Bamboo fabric. A common term used in the cloth diaper world is ‘OBF’ meaning organic bamboo fleece or ‘OBV’ organic bamboo velour. What they are actually referring to is Bamboo Rayon)


Hemp -Hemp is extremely hard to find on its own and is usually blended with another natural fiber; usually cotton or bamboo rayon Pros: Breathable, highly absorbent, great for fitteds and diaper soakers/inserts Cons: It gets hard after several washings, has a distinct smell Common Hemp Fabrics used for Cloth Diapers: * Hemp/Bamboo Fleece: Used for diaper shells, diaper soakers & inserts *Hemp/Cotton Fleece: Used for diaper shells, diaper soakers & inserts Microfiber (made with polyester fibers) Pros: highly absorbent, light, thin, cheap Cons: can hold smells (especially ammonia), can not be used against baby’s skin and must be topped with a different fabric or used as an insert for pocket diapers Common Microfiber Fabrics used for Cloth Diapers: *Microfiber: Diaper soakers & inserts Polyester Fleece (100% polyester fibers) Pros: Comfortable, repels moisture, breathable, doesn’t hold stains, great for covers, stay dry fabric Cons: not all fleece is created equal, thinner fleece leads to leaks Common Polyester Fleece Fabrics used for Cloth Diapers: *Anti-Pill Fleece: Used for diaper shells * Blizzard Fleece Used for diaper shells *Microfleece: Used for diaper shells *Polar Fleece: Used for diaper shells * WindPro Fleece: Used for diaper shells ProCare Pros: Waterproof, food grade, great for All in One diapers, diaper covers, and pocket diapers Cons: Can delaminate over time or with improper care Common ProCare Fabrics used for Cloth Diapers: * ProCare: Used for diaper shells PUL (Polyurethane Laminate) Pros: Waterproof, great for All in One diapers, diaper covers, and pocket diapers Cons: Can delaminate over time or with improper care Common PUL Fabrics used for Cloth Diapers: * PUL Solid (Color): Used for diaper shells * PUL Laminated Cotton Print: Used for diaper shells * PUL Laminated Polyester/Lycra Print: Used for diaper shells

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Suedecloth (100% polyester) Pros: Stay dry fabric, readily available in craft shops, easy to spray poop off, fast drying time Cons: known for repelling, Common Suedecloth Fabrics used for Cloth Diapers: *100% Merino Interlock: Diaper covers, shorties, longies *Alova: Diaper shells, tops of soakers *Wool Jersey: Diaper shells, diaper covers Wool Pros: naturally anti-bacterial, waterproof, breathable, doesn’t need to be washed often, great for covers or wool-in-two diaper (if you’re adventurous) Cons: expensive, does require extra care when washing Common Wool Fabrics used for Cloth Diapers: *100% Merino Interlock: Diaper covers, shorties, longies *95% Wool 5% Spandex Interlock: Diaper covers, shorties, longies *Wool Jersey: Diaper shells, diaper covers Zorb Pros: highly absorbent, doesn’t fray or curl, fast drying time, cheaper than natural absorbent fabrics (i.e. bamboo, cotton, hemp), plush feel, does not retain smells Cons: Zorb (not Zorb II) must be sandwiched between fabrics or it will break down rapidly Common Zorb Fabrics used for Cloth Diapers: *Zorb: Diaper shells, diaper soakers & Inserts *Zorb II Dimples: Diaper shells, diaper soakers & Inserts *Zorb II Diamonds: Diaper shells, diaper soakers & Inserts

Handling Your Fabric So you’ve gathered all your equipment and notions. And you’ve bought all the fabrics you’ll need to start making your little one the ultimate diaper stash. You’re ready to start sewing right? Wrong. There is yet another step that you must do before you start cutting your fabric, and that’s prepping it. Trust me I know its a pain but it will save you a lot of heart ache, because nothing is worse than putting in the effort to make something only to have it shrink down 2 sizes after its first wash.

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Pre-Wash Chart* Fabric Bamboo Fleece Bamboo Terry Bamboo Velour All Other Bamboo Fabrics Cotton Birdseye Cotton Fleece Cotton French Terry Cotton Sherpa Cotton Terry Cotton Velour All Other Cotton Fabrics Hemp Fabrics Microfiber Polyester Fleeces Procare PUL Fabrics Sueduecloth Wool Zorb Zorb II

Pre-Wash Cycles 3-4 2-3 2 1-2 4-5** 3-4 3-4 3-4 2-3 2 1-2 3-4 4-5 0 0 0 0-1 2 0 2-3

*These are not firm rules...they’re more like guidelines really **Even though you prewash birdseye for shrinkage its important to note that it still may shrink more. Some people prefer to cut and sew it up before washing since it will lay flatter while sewing. But if you do this you must make sure to cut it at least 3 inches larger than the original pattern to allow for shrinkage. I’m not a big fan of trying to figure out the calculations for something like that so I’d just rather pre-wash it first.

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Cutting Your Fabric Now cutting may not seem like a big deal but to me its the most important step next to actually sewing a project. Because if you cut something improperly it GREATLY affects the fit of the diaper as well as the placement of the closures (which also affects diaper fit). So here are a few rules of thumb when it comes to cutting your fabric: 1

Cut on a clean, flat surface

2

If you have one use a cutting mat

-A dining table or hardwood floor would do just fine

-It protects your cutting surface from scratches

3

Lay out Your Pattern Pieces Before You Cut -The last thing you want to happen is to run out of fabric before you finish cutting out all the pieces

4

Respect the Grain Line

-The grain line is the direction of fabric that runs parallel to a fabrics selvage (i.e. it runs up and down not side to side). It is usually the least stretchy direction. It is important that the length of the diaper pattern run parallel to the grain line to make sure that you have maximum stretch to the diapers’ wings.

6

Read the Pattern Pieces

7

Use your Fabric Scissors

8

Observe the direction of the print on a fabric

-Are there any special instructions? Should you cut on a fold? How many pieces need to be cut from a pattern piece? Which way should the stretch go? Mark elastic & snap placements. -I repeat. Use your fabric scissors. And use them ONLY to cut fabric. Why? Because when you use fabric scissors for cutting paper (or vice versa) it makes the scissors too dull to cut fabric making cutting a very slow process. Doing this also damages the fabric. Trust me. I’ve done it. It sucks. -Is it one directional? Would it bug you to have half of the print on the diaper to be upside down? If so, then you’ll have to cut the diaper in halves (with added seam allowance) to make sure the print is going in the right direction and then sew the halves together.

9

14

Use pattern weights to keep pattern in place


The Notions Closures This pattern is specifically a front closing pattern that has options for: A. Snap Closure: Provides a secure closure and makes it harder for little ones to pull their diapers off B. Hook & Loop (also known as Aplix, Touchtape or Diapermakers Tape): Great for quick changes and great for those who are new to cloth diapers C. Closureless: With this option you will need to have something to secure the diaper closed. You can use cloth diaper pins, a Snappi or a cover as a closure. Snaps Snaps are marked as a circle and hook and loop guides are provided on the full scale patterns. The preferred size resin/plastic snap is a Size 20 and you will need either a snap plier (available at large craft stores as well as online) or snap press to apply them. Snaps can be hidden between the layers of fabric or exposed. Exposed snaps have the benefit of being quicker to add after completing the diaper shell but may irritate some babies’ skin. Please note that you do not need to mark the snap placement on the wings of the diaper until you have completed sewing it. Hook & Loop Hook & Loop comes in a plethora of colors and sizes but 1.5” size is preferred for this pattern. No matter what style of closure you choose, the snaps or loop tape must be applied before diaper assembly (unless you would prefer exposed snaps).

Elastic The preferred width of elastic for this pattern is 1/4” polybraid for diapers and 1” Fold Over Elastic (FOE) for covers. When using polybraid elastic it is important that you DO NOT pre-cut or pre-measure the elastics. This pattern does not give you the lengths you should cut your elastic while it is unstretched but instead gives you the measurement your elastic should be while fully stretched. This is because different elastics stretch at different rates.

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Using & Making the Patterns There are 2 ways in which the patterns you will use to create your diapers will present themselves:

A. A full size pattern in which you must piece together and secure with tape or B. You will be given a set of instructions to draft your own pattern from a set of measurements.

The majority of this pattern falls in the (A) category but there are certain soaker styles that you can draft yourself because they’re either rectangles or squares. Make sure your lines are as neat as possible to assure that you have an easier sewing experience. Please take note of the cutting lines as our patterns have a cutting line for turned and topstitched diapers (those have a 1/4� seam allowance) as well as serged (those have a 1/2� seam allowance). Make sure you mark your elastic and snap placements using your Air Soluble/Water Soluble pen BEFORE you remove the pattern from the fabric. All snap closures are marked with a circle, a good tip would be to use a hole/paper punch to punch out the circles to make marking your snap placement onto your fabric easier.

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Sew it Up! Basic cutting and sewing skills are needed to understand and perform the techniques to create the items in this pattern. But even if you are new to sewing I am confident that you can create a great diaper for your little one.

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Sewing All in Ones (AIOS) All-in-One diapers are the closest thing you can get to a disposable in the cloth diaper world. They consist of a waterproof layer either on the outside or hidden between the outer and inner layers They usually have a soaker (and absorbent layer) sewn into the diaper shell making it very easy to use and more convenient than fitteds or pocket diapers. So if this is your first foray into sewing cloth diapers I recommend starting off with this style.

Fabric Combinations for AIOs* Diaper Options

Outer

Hidden

Inner

Soaker

Daytime/ Light Wetter

PUL

Nothing

Velour or Stay Dry Fabric

Sewn In: Bamboo, Cotton, Hemp, Zorb II, Microfiber

Moderate Wetter

PUL

Velour or Stay Dry Fabric

Sewn In: Bamboo, Cotton, Hemp, Zorb II, Microfiber

Baby Stay Dry

PUL

Stay Dry Fabric

Nothing or Internal Soaker: Bamboo, Cotton, Hemp, Zorb II, Microfiber

Night Time

PUL

Stay Dry Fabric

Sewn In: Bamboo, Cotton, Hemp, Zorb II, Microfiber

Ramped Up

PUL

Velour or Stay Dry Fabric

For Pizazz (a.ka. Hidden PUL Diaper)

Printed Fabric

Internal Soaker: Bamboo, Cotton, Hemp, Zorb II, Microfiber Nothing or Internal Soaker: Bamboo, Cotton, Hemp, Zorb II, Microfiber Internal Soaker: Bamboo, Cotton, Hemp, Zorb II, Microfiber Bamboo Fleece, Cotton Fleece, Hemp Fleece PUL

Sewn In: Bamboo, Cotton, Hemp, Zorb II, Microfiber Sewn In: Bamboo, Cotton, Hemp, Zorb II, Microfiber

*Again these are not firm rules...they’re more like guidelines really

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Velour or Stay Dry Fabric


Instructions We will be sewing our AIOs using the Turned and Topstitched method. This is a great method to use if your little one’s skin get irritated by serged diapers. The diaper shown in the example is a size Medium with hook & loop closure. Diaper Shell Layers include: layer knit print, 1 layer PUL, 1 internal zorb soaker, 1 layer athletic wicking fabric. Soaker style is contoured made from 3 layers of heavy bamboo fleece and is sewn onto the inner diaper layer. 1. Determine the size you’d like to sew 2. Measure, Mark & Cut - If you are using a tri-fold or snake style soaker please make sure you create the pattern first. See page 42 for instructions. - Lay out your fabric -Cut 2-3 diaper shell layers -Cut 1 scrap piece of PUL for snap/hook & loop reinforcement -Cut 3-4 diaper soaker layers for soaker -You can use bamboo fleece/terry, hemp fleece, cotton fleece/terry, zorb, microfiber -Transfer sewn in soaker line elastic & closure placements onto the fabric 3. Place scrap piece of PUL onto back of outer fabric diaper cut along the front panel &/or wings. Baste, pin, or glue* reinforcement PUL piece where the snaps or hook & loop would be placed. 4. Apply Closure - If you would like your snaps to be hidden apply snaps to the front panel otherwise wait until you complete your diaper shell before adding them - If you are using hook & loop apply the loop (soft side) part of the hook & loop onto the outer diaper cut along front panel.

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5. If you are including an internal soaker with your diaper, it must be added now. Please see Page 42 for sewing an internal soaker. 6. Sewn in Soaker -If you are including a sewn in soaker with your diaper it must be stitched in now along the sewn in soaker line on the inner diaper shell fabric. Please see Page 42 for the instructions for adding a sewn in soaker. 7. Prep Diaper Shell Layers for Sewing -Stack the diaper cuts in the following order and pin them together: -Bottom: Hidden layer (if you opt to have one) -Middle: Outer Layer right side up -Top: Inner layer wrong side up 8. Sew around the diaper shell layers using a 1/4 inch seam allowance and leave an opening along the front of the diaper. 9. Measure Elastic -To measure your elastic please note the recommended fully stretched length on your pattern, stretch your elastic until it reaches that number, mark it, let the elastic relax then cut it. -If you are using the same elastic for future diapers make a note of the relaxed measurement on the pattern for future use. 10. To apply the elastic, place each end onto the elastic placement points within the seam allowance. Pin them and sew over each end several times to make sure they stay secure.

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11. Turn diaper right side out 12. Tuck in the edges at the opening 1/4� of an inch and pin closed. 13. Topstitching -When topstitching your diaper make sure you are as close to the edge as possible. I personally prefer to stitch 1/8 of an inch from the edge of the the diaper. -Start topstitching an inch before your opening begins and continue until you reach the elastic. -Once you’ve reached the elastic make sure your machine is in the needle down position and pivot the diaper 90 degrees. Sew until you clear the elastic (around 1/2 inch from the edge of the diaper), put the machine in the needle down position again, pivot back 90 degrees, stretch the elastic as you sew so it will lay flat and continue to sew a line along side of the elastic 1/2 inch away from the diaper edge. When you reach the next end of elastic, pivot 90 degrees again to stitch back and continue topstitching the rest of the diaper in the same manner. -Once you’ve reached your starting point sew around 1 inch further then backstitch to complete your topstitching 13. Sew Soakers together -If you are adding a soaker to your diaper please view Page 41 for instructions.

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14. Adding the Wing & Soaker Snaps or Hook & Loop -Mark the hook & loop or snap placement of the wings/soaker and apply

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Sewing Pocket Diapers Pocket cloth diapers are simply a diaper with a pocket in it for you to “stuff” your chosen insert inside. This style of diaper is loved for its ease of use because of its waterproof shell as well as the option to customize the diaper absorbency to your little ones’ needs. It is important to note that waterproof pocket diapers traditionally have stay dry inners (usually some sort of polyester fleece). But you can also create yourself a pocket fitted diaper (a diaper without a waterproof shell...but we’ll get to that later).

Fabric Combinations for Pockets* Diaper Options

Outer

Hidden

Inner

Soaker

Waterproof Option

PUL

Nothing

Velour or Stay Dry Fabric

Insert/Tri Fold Insert: Bamboo, Cotton, Hemp, Zorb, Zorb II, Microfiber

Fitted Option

Bamboo, Cotton, Hemp, Printed Fabric Polyester Fleece

Bamboo, Cotton, Hemp

Bamboo, Cotton, Hemp, Printed Fabric, Velour or Stay Dry Fabric Polyester Fleece

Insert/Tri Fold Insert: Bamboo, Cotton, Hemp, Zorb, Zorb II, Microfiber Insert/Tri Fold Insert: Bamboo, Cotton, Hemp, Zorb, Zorb II, Microfiber

Fleece Pocket Diaper

Nothing

*Again these are not firm rules...they’re more like guidelines really

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Instructions We will be sewing our pockets using the Turned and Topstitched method WITH a welt pocket opening. There are a few different ways to sew the pocket opening of a diaper, including the popular leading edge (patented by fuzzibunz), sham, envelope, front opening, & welt. I personally prefer the welt because it just looks cleaner and holds inserts well. The diaper shown in the example is a size Large with a snap closure. Diaper Shell Layers include: 2 layers of PUL, 1 layer athletic wicking fabric. I opted for a tri-folded insert soaker style with 3 layers of bamboo terry. 1. Determine the size you’d like to sew 2. Measure, Mark & Cut - If you are using a tri-fold, pocket insert, or snake style soaker please make sure you create the pattern first. See page 42 for instructions. -Create welt pocket flap pattern by drafting a 3” x 7” rectangle for a finished 1” welt flay or a 6”x7” rectangle for a finished 2” welt flap - Lay out your fabric -Cut 2-3 diaper shell layers -Cut 1 scrap piece of PUL for snap/hook & loop reinforcement -Cut welt flap pattern from inner diaper fabric -Cut 3-4 diaper soaker layers for soaker -You can use bamboo fleece/terry, hemp fleece, cotton fleece/terry, zorb, microfiber -Transfer sewn in soaker/pocket line elastic & closure placements onto the fabric 3. Place scrap piece of PUL onto back of outer fabric diaper cut along the front panel &/or wings. Baste, pin, or glue* reinforcement PUL piece where the snaps or hook & loop would be placed.

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4. Apply Snaps (if you would like your snaps to be hidden) or Loop part of the hook & loop onto the outer diaper cut along front panel. 5. Creating the welt pocket -Fold up the pocket flat into thirds (with wrong sides together) and iron -Line up the raw edge of the fold with the pocket placement line (with right sides together) (Fig. A)

(Fig. A)

- Sew a narrow rectangle around the pocket placement line catching both the raw edge and the upper third of the flap (at least 1/8� away) (Fig. B) -Cut a slot on the inside of the sewn rectangle (Fig. C)

(Fig. B)

-Push the top part inside of the slip and flip up the bottom part (Fig. D) -Turn in raw edges in and pin down (Fig. E)

(Fig. C)

-Straight stitch down the edges making sure stop when you reach 1/4 inch below the flap to catch the inside flap to secure it down. (FIG. F)

(Fig. D)

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5. If you are including an internal soaker with your diaper, it must be added now. Please see Page 42 for sewing an internal soaker. 6. Sewn in Soaker -If you are including a sewn in soaker with your diaper it must be stitched in now along the sewn in soaker line on the inner diaper shell fabric. Please see Page 42 for the instructions for adding a sewn in soaker.

(Fig. F)

7. Prep Diaper Shell Layers for Sewing -Stack the diaper cuts in the following order and pin them together: -Bottom: Hidden layer -Middle: Outer Layer right side up -Top: Inner layer wrong side up 8. Sew around the diaper shell layers using a 1/4 inch seam allowance and leave an opening along the front of the diaper. 9. Measure Elastic -To measure your elastic please note the recommended fully stretched length on your pattern, stretch your elastic until it reaches that number, mark it, let the elastic relax then cut it. -If you are using the same elastic for future diapers make a note of the relaxed measurement on the pattern for future use. 10. To apply the elastic, place each end onto the elastic placement points within the seam allowance. Pin them and sew over each end several times to make sure they stay secure.

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(Fig. G)


11. Turn diaper right side out 12. Tuck in the edges at the opening 1/4� of an inch and pin closed. 13. Topstitching -When topstitching your diaper make sure you are as close to the edge as possible. I personally prefer to stitch 1/8 of an inch from the edge of the the diaper. -Start topstitching an inch before your opening begins and continue until you reach the elastic. -Once you’ve reached the elastic make sure your machine is in the needle down position and pivot the diaper 90 degrees. Sew until you clear the elastic (around 1/2 inch from the edge of the diaper), put the machine in the needle down position again, pivot back 90 degrees, stretch the elastic as you sew so it will lay flat and continue to sew a line along side of the elastic 1/2 inch away from the diaper edge. When you reach the next end of elastic, pivot 90 degrees again to stitch back and continue topstitching the rest of the diaper in the same manner. 14. Sew Soaker Together -If you are adding an external soaker to your diaper please view Page 41 for instructions. Then add stud to back. 15. Adding the Wing Snaps/Hook & Loop -Mark the hook & loop or snap placement of the wing -Apply Snaps or sew on hook

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Sewing Fitted Diapers Fitted Cloth Diapers (or Contoured Diapers) are basically prefolds on steroids. They do require a cover although a lot of people that use fitteds don’t put a cover over them unless they’re taking their babies out and about. Fitteds are usually made with natural fibers; either cotton, hemp or bamboo. There are no rules when it comes to fitteds so play around with the fabric combinations! Most recently they’ve known to have a hidden layer of polyester fleece to allow them to be worn longer without a cover. Fitteds are breathable, great for heavy wetters, awesome overnight diapers, and can come in tons of different fancy printed fabrics.

Fabric Combinations for Fitteds* Diaper Options

Outer

Hidden

Inner

Soaker

Daytime/ Light Wetter

Bamboo, Cotton, Hemp

Bamboo, Cotton, Hemp

Bamboo, Cotton, Hemp ,Velour or Stay Dry Fabric

Sewn In/Snap In: Bamboo, Cotton, Hemp, Zorb II, Microfiber

Moderate Wetter

Bamboo, Cotton, Hemp Bamboo, Cotton, Hemp Bamboo, Cotton, Hemp Bamboo, Cotton, Hemp Printed Fabric

Bamboo, Cotton, Hemp, Zorb, Zorb II Bamboo, Cotton, Hemp, Zorb, Zorb II Bamboo, Cotton, Hemp, Zorb, Zorb II Bamboo, Cotton, Hemp, Zorb, Zorb II Bamboo, Cotton, Hemp, Zorb, Zorb II

Bamboo, Cotton, Hemp ,Velour or Stay Dry Fabric Bamboo, Cotton, Hemp ,Velour or Stay Dry Fabric Bamboo, Cotton, Hemp ,Velour or Stay Dry Fabric Bamboo, Cotton, Hemp ,Velour or Stay Dry Fabric Bamboo, Cotton, Hemp ,Velour or Stay Dry Fabric

Sewn In/Snap In: Bamboo, Cotton, Hemp, Zorb II, Microfiber Sewn In/Snap In: Bamboo, Cotton, Hemp, Zorb II, Microfiber Sewn In/Snap In: Bamboo, Cotton, Hemp, Zorb II, Microfiber Sewn In/Snap In: Bamboo, Cotton, Hemp, Zorb II, Microfiber Sewn In/Snap In: Bamboo, Cotton, Hemp, Zorb II, Microfiber

Baby Stay Dry

Night Time

Hybrid Fitted For Pizazz (a.ka. Hidden PUL Diaper)

*Again these are not firm rules...they’re more like guidelines really

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Instructions We will be sewing this fitted using the Serged method although you can also use the Turned and Topstitched method we used on the AIO diaper or create a Pocket style fitted diaper. The serged method is a quick way to sew a diaper. In order to perform this method it is prefered to use a serger as it will make your diaper more sturdy as well as have a cleaner look. But you can also just use your zig zag stitch on a regular sewing machine. The diaper shown in the example is a size Newborn with a snap closure. Diaper Shell Layers include: 1 layer printed fabric, 1 layer polyester fleece, 1 layer cotton velour with sewn in contoured soaker:. 1. Determine the size you’d like to sew 2. Measure, Mark & Cut -Cut out the pattern along the navy (outer) lines. This allows you an extra amount to be trimmed off by the serger - If you are using a tri-fold or snake style soaker please make sure you create the pattern first. See page 42 for instructions. - Lay out your fabric -Cut 2-3 diaper shell layers -On the outer layer, mark 1/4 inch from edge around the entire diaper pattern. This is your “trim line.” -Cut 3-5 diaper soaker layers for soaker -You can use bamboo fleece/terry, hemp fleece, cotton fleece/terry, zorb, microfiber -If you would like a sewn in soaker: transfer sewn in soaker line elastic & closure placements onto the fabric. 4. Apply Closure - If you would like your belly snaps to be hidden apply snaps to the front panel otherwise wait until you complete your diaper shell before adding them

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- If you are using hook & loop apply the loop (soft side) part of the hook & loop onto the outer diaper cut along front panel. 5. If you are including an internal soaker with your diaper, it must be added now. Please see Page 42 for sewing an internal soaker. 6. Sewn in Soaker -If you are including a sewn in soaker with your diaper it must be stitched in now along the sewn in soaker line on the inner diaper shell fabric. Please see Page 42 for the instructions for adding a sewn in soaker. 7. Prep Diaper Shell Layers for Sewing -Stack the diaper cuts in the following order and pin them together: -Bottom: Inner layer wrong side up -Middle: Hidden layer right side up -Top: Outer layer right side up 8. Measure Elastic -To measure your elastic please note the recommended fully stretched length on your pattern, stretch your elastic until it reaches that number, mark it, let the elastic relax then cut it. -If you are using the same elastic for future diapers make a note of the relaxed measurement on the pattern for future use. 9. To apply the elastic, place each end onto the elastic placement points 3/4 inch from the diapers edge. Pin and sew over each end several times to make sure they stay secure.

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8. Sewing the Diaper -Sew around the entire diaper making sure that your blade is cutting on the “trim line.” -Continue to sew 1 inch past your starting point, remove the diaper from your serger WITHOUT CUTTING THE THREAD and continue to press your foot on the sewing pedal to make a 2-4 inch serger tail. Note: Your serger should not be sewing through the elastic. If it is, you’ve placed the elastic too close. Doing this can cause the elastic to not lose some of its elasticity and the elastic will not lay properly. 9. Weave in Your Serger Tails -Take your darning needle and thread your serger tail into it -Once done take the needle and weave it through your serged edge and pull through. - Trim off excess serger tail 13. Topstitching/Elastic Casing -Mark the places where your elastics start and stop. Position your needle are one of the 3 starting points sown in the photo. -Sew forward a few stitches then back stitch to secure the stitching. -Proceed to sew forward until you clear the elastic (around 1/2 inch from the edge of the diaper), put the machine in the needle down position again, -Pivot 90 degrees, stretching the elastic as you sew so it will lay flat and continue to sew a line along side of the elastic 1/2 inch away from the diaper edge.

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-When you reach the next end of elastic, pivot 90 degrees again and continue to sew to the edge of the diaper -Once you reach the edge, backstitch a few stitches then trim threads -Repeat for each of the elastics 14. Adding Closures -Mark the hook & loop or snap placement of the wing and/or belly if you are doing exposed snaps -Apply Snaps or sew on hook 13. Sew Soaker -If you are adding a snap in soaker to your diaper please view Page 41 for instructions.

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34


Sewing Diaper Covers Diaper covers are simply that; something that covers a diaper. Usually used over a fitted, or a prefold, or a flat diaper. It is made with water resistant/waterproof fabrics that provide a wetness barrier between your little one and you..or your great aunt Sally...or your carpet, bed, car ( I think you catch my drift).

Fabric Combinations for Diaper Covers Diaper Options

Outer

Hidden

Inner

Soaker

Basic PUL Option

PUL

Nothing

Nothing

Nothing

Pizazzed PUL Option Fleece Cover Option Wool Cover Option

Printed Fabric

Nothing

PUL

Nothing

Polyester Fleece

Nothing

Polyester Fleece

Nothing

Wool

Nothing

Wool

Nothing

*Again these are not firm rules...they’re more like guidelines really

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Instructions We will be sewing our covers by binding the cover’s edges. There are a few different ways to sew the pocket opening of a diaper, including the popular leading edge (patented by fuzzibunz), sham, envelope, front opening, & welt. I personally prefer the welt because it just looks cleaner and holds inserts well. The cover shown in the example is a size Newborn with a touch tape closure. Diaper Shell includes: 1 layer PUL & 1 inch plush Fold Over Elastic (FOE)

1. Determine the size you’d like to sew -When cutting out your pattern make sure you cut along the serge line. 2. Measure, Mark & Cut - Lay out your fabric -Cut 1-2 diaper shell layers -Cut 1 scrap piece of PUL for snap/hook & loop reinforcement -Transfer elastic & closure placements onto the fabric 3. Place scrap piece of PUL onto back of outer fabric diaper cut along the front panel &/or wings. Baste, pin, or glue* reinforcement PUL piece where the snaps or hook & loop would be placed. - If you are sewing a hidden PUL diaper then place the 4. If you would like your snaps to be hidden you apply them now. If you are using hook & loop apply the loop part (soft side) of the hook & loop onto the outer diaper cut along front panel. 5. If you are using 2 layers of fabric for your cover baste stitch around the edges to prevent the fabric from shifting while adding the fold over elastic (FOE)

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6. Adding the FOE -With the right side of the fabric facing up, starting at lower right elastic point with the plush/soft side of the FOE facing outward place the fabric edge into the crease of the FOE and fold the FOE over encasing the fabric. -Using the 3 step stitch set on the widest width setting on your machine begin stitching. Only stretch the FOE along the legs and back of the diaper (the same places where your elastic placement is marked) -As your stitch along the cover don’t be afraid to stop & put your machine in the needle down position to make adjustments to the fabric. This is to make sure that the fabric edges are in the crease of the FOE to assure that they are completely enclosed. -When you get back to the point where you started continue to apply the FOE about an inch more, backstitch and clip off the excess FOE and threads. - Take a lighter and run it carefully over the exposed FOE edge where your FOE ended to seal them and prevent them from fraying -When doing this technique do not keep the flame on the FOE too long or you will leave a horrid burn mark and probably melt the FOE in that spot... and that’s really not a good look. So, take your time and be careful. There’s no rush. 7. Adding the Wing Snaps/Hook & Loop -Mark the hook & loop or snap placement of the wing -Apply Snaps or sew on hook

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Sewing Soakers & Inserts I frequently compare the components of a cloth diaper to that of a car. If the diaper shell was the body and the closures on them are the doors, then to me soakers and inserts are the engines. They are the parts of a cloth diaper that puts in the most work. Soakers can be snapped into a diaper, sewn into a diaper, laid into a diaper, tri-folded then laid into a diaper, or even stuffed into a diaper (i.e. pockets). They come in many shapes, sizes and configurations; but the one thing they have in common is that they’re always made with an absorbent fabric and if it is to be placed inside of the diaper shell then it is usually topped with whatever fabric is used for the inner of the diaper shell.

Fabrics Commonly Used for Soakers Bamboo

Cotton

Hemp

Non-Natural Fabrics

Fleece

Fleece

Microfiber

Baby Loop Terry Double Sided Terry French Terry

Terry

Bamboo/Hemp Fleece Cotton/Hemp French Terry Cotton/Hemp Fleece

French Terry

Zorb Zorb II Dimples

Sherpa

Zorb II Diamonds

Diapermakers Gauze Prefold Twill

Microfleece (for top of insert)

*Again these are not firm rules...they’re more like guidelines really

39


Instructions A Contoured Soaker pattern is included as a print out option and instructions on how to draft a tri-fold soaker, a pocket style insert, and a snake style soaker are included below. We well also discuss Instructions how to apply an internal soaker and sewn in soaker to your diaper also. Contoured soakers usually consist of 2 “separate soakers” that are stitched together at the top.

Soaker Pattern Measurements Newborn Small Medium1 1

4 13 1/ ” x 12 / “

1

Large 1 2

13 /2 ” x 15 / “

Trifold Soaker

9 1/4 ” x 12 1/4 ”

Pocket Insert Soaker

4 1/4 ” x 12 ”

4 1/4 ” x 13 1/2 ”

4 1/2 ” x 14 / ”

5 ” x 15 / ”

Snake Style Soaker (cut on fold)

4 1/4 ” x 10 ”

4 1/4 ” x 11 ”

4 1/2 ” x 12 ”

5 ” x 13 ”

12 1/4 ” x 12 /4 “

4

1

4

14

*Again these are not firm rules...they’re more like guidelines really. You can make them whatever size you see fit.

Tri-Fold Soaker A tri-fold soaker is simply an elongated square/rectangle that you would fold into thirds to either lay-in, or stuff into a diaper (you could also add snaps to it to make it a snap in. This option provides great absorbency and is an excellent use of fabric (i.e. almost not fabric waste). Below is a chart providing all the measurements needed to create a pattern for one. Just tape a few pieces of paper (it can be printer paper, construction paper, old paper bags, whatever you have on hand) and follow the measurements and Viola! Instant pattern. Seam allowances are included in the measurements.

Pocket Insert Soaker A pocket insert is simply a rectangle, usually used to stuff into a pocket. But you may also add a snap to make it a snap in soaker or even just lay it inside of the diaper for additional absorbency.

Snake Style Soaker A snake style soaker is a really long rectangle. You can make them as long or as short as needed. A lot of people prefer them longer so that they can fold them up inside of the diaper shell for added absorbency. The measurements mentioned in the chart are good starting points but if you would like to make them longer please feel free to make it so. Only you can know your baby’s needs.

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1. Determine the size you’d like to sew 2. Measure, Mark & Cut - Lay out your fabric -Cut 2-6 layers of absorbent fabric for each soaker/insert -Mark 1/4 inch from edge around the entire diaper pattern. This is your “trim line.” -Mark any snap placements onto the fabric 3. Serge soaker around all edges making sure that your blade is cutting on the “trim line.” - Continue to sew 1 inch past your starting point, remove the diaper from your serger WITHOUT CUTTING THE THREAD and continue to press your foot on the sewing pedal to make a 2-4 inch serger tail. 4. Weave in Your Serger Tails -Take your darning needle and thread your serger tail into it -Once done take the needle and weave it through your serged edge and pull through. - Trim off excess serger tail ***IF YOU ARE SEWING A POCKET INSERT/ TRI-FOLD SOAKER STOP HERE*** 5. For Contoured Soakers: - Take your 2 separate soakers and pin pin them together at the top - Sew a straight stitch along the top - Trim threads -Add stud snap (the ‘male’ part)

41


6. For Snake Soakers: - Take your 2 separate soakers and pin pin them together at the top - Sew a straight stitch along the top - Trim threads -Add stud snap (the ‘male’ part) 7. For Sewn In Soakers -Mark sewn in soaker placement onto inner diaper cut -Position soaker onto the diaper cut lining the top of the soaker with the sewn in soaker placement line on the diaper cut -If using as tri-fold soaker as a sewn in soaker you will only be stitching the inner third of the soaker to the inner diaper cut -Start sewing, then backstitch a few stitches to secure the stitch then sew across the soaker. -Once you reach the end of the soaker backstitch again to secure the same -Trim threads -Continue to sew the diaper as per diaper style instructions 8. For Internal Soakers -Serge all soaker layers together and weave in tails -Center soaker on the wrong side of diaper shell inner fabric making sure you’re at least 1 / “ away from the back panel top edge 1 -Pin soaker in place 4 -Straight stitch around entire soaker making sure you backstitch at the beginning and end. -Trim threads

42


The Patterns Size Chart Newborn

Small

Medium

Large

Waist

12 1 /4 - 15 1/4 “

14 1/2 - 18 1/

15 - 22”

16 - 25”

Maximum Thigh Maximum Rise

6 1/2 - 12 “

8” - 13”

9 1/2 - 15 ”

11 - 16 1/ “

14 1/ “

16 1/ “

17 3/4 “

18 3/4 “

Weight

6-15 lbs

10-21 lbs

15-24 lbs

22-35+lbs

Page

41-43

44-47

48-51

52-57

2

2

4

4

*These are just sizing guidelines, they are not set in stone. Sizing will vary with type of fabric used, elastic type, as well as your chosen sewing style.

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NEWBORN ELASTIC MEASUREMENTS (when fully stretched) WAIST: 7 1/4 inches LEG: 9 1/4 inches

A

44

B

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1 INCH S C A L E

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S C A L E

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BACK

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B SMALL

ELASTIC MEASUREMENTS (when fully stretched)

WAIST: 7 3/4 inches LEG: 10 inches

C

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MEDIUM

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MIDDLE

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MEDIUM

ELASTIC MEASUREMENTS (when fully stretched)

WAIST: 8 1/4 inches LEG: 11 1/4 inches

C

PANEL

C

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LARGE

A

55 B

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LARGE

A

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B

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PANEL MIDDLE A

THE PINT SIZED COLLETION

Š GUERILLA FLUFF LLC.

LARGE

ELASTIC MEASUREMENTS (when fully stretched)

WAIST: 9 1/2 inches LEG: 12 1/4 inches

C

C

A

57

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58 B

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c u t li n e cu

C

PANEL

THE PINT SIZED COLLETION

Š GUERILLA FLUFF LLC.

LARGE


C

FRONT

THE PINT SIZED COLLETION B

Š GUERILLA FLUFF LLC.

LARGE

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59


serge line serg e l i n e serg e

THE PINT SIZED COLLETION

Š GUERILLA FLUFF LLC.

CONTOURED SOAKER BOTTOM

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TAPE HERE FOR NEWBORN

TAPE HERE FOR SMALL

TAPE HERE FOR MEDIUM

TAPE HERE FOR LARGE

60

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serge lin e

THE PINT SIZED COLLETION Š GUERILLA FLUFF LLC.

CONTOURED SOAKER TOP

TAPE LINE

serg e l i ne

61

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Resources Don’t know where to go for diaper making supplies, never fear! These stores are a great place to start on your diaper making journey. Natures Fabrics www.NaturesFabrics.com Good source for all sorts of diaper making fabrics. They’re really known for their wool interlock but also carry knit prints, bamboo fabrics, cotton fabrics, hemp fabrics in a motley of colors. In fact, that diaper making is what this website caters to most. Fabric.com Absolutely F-A-N-T-A-S-T-I-C for prints, velours, PUL and elastic. They also usually have some sort of coupon running at any time, plus free SUPER FAST shipping over $35. www. Wazoodle.com Great for absorbent fabrics, snaps, stay-dry fabrics, and PUL. They have the absolute best bamboo fleece I’ve come across and its a the best price (to me anyway). This is another website that caters to diaper makers. www. Diapersewingsupples.com Awesome for PUL fabrics (even prints!), hook & loop, and absorbent fabrics. This is owned by a fellow diaper making company and has fast shipping. Check out their clearance section for some good deals on different fabrics. Some may have minor flaws and if you’re not selling you fluff its a great way to save even more dough. www. verybaby.com This site specifically caters to those who make their own diapers and has a great for notions selection. They also carry PUL and other absorbent fabrics.

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Guerilla U: The Pint Sized Collection Pattern