Welcome to the North York Moors Coast, the perfect destination for those who enjoy the finer things in life, time together, exploring outdoors, cosy pubs and great places to eat. Shrug off everyday life. Relax and try some new activities.
Sandwiched between beautiful moorland and the North Sea is a very special 26-mile strip of coastline, brimming with mini adventures and maritime curiosities. The fishing villages between Saltburn and Cloughton are part of the North York Moors National Park and have a quirky, independent charm all of their own. Very different in character from better known towns on the Yorkshire coastline, the villages are historic, but not stuck in the past. Recreate memories of childhood seaside holidays with your own family. Remember the feel of golden sand beneath your feet and the excitement of finding sea creatures in rockpools? Hunt for dinosaur footprints and find fossils. It’s not just about tranquil moments on the beach. There are now plenty of chances to get an adrenaline fix out on the water, in the woods or on the clifftops above. You might prefer to retreat indoors. As you’d expect you’ll find plenty of cosy pubs and restaurants serving fresh fish. You might be pleasantly surprised by the clean lines and contemporary feel of some of the newer places to eat. Nature lovers: use our checklist to see what you can spot. We’ve also put together some Perfect Days for you to enjoy as well as a host of family friendly explorations along the coast. Enjoy!
Front cover image: Staithes harbour © volunteer Brian Nicholson/NYMNP Runswick Bay © Tony Bartholomew
Back cover image: Sandsend beach © Ceri Oakes 03
Welcome to the North York Moors National Park In search of smugglers Cake!
Cleveland Way National Trail Go your own way Moor stories Fish & fishing Fish, fillet, feast! Top twenty nature highlights Music on the coast Fun for all the family
Secret Seaview, Robin Hoodâ€™s Bay ÂŠ Ceri Oakes
Different ways of seeing... the sea Inspired Eat, drink and be merry Starry skies Food and drink on the coast Captain Cook HM Bark Endeavour in Whitby Dog friendly holidays Fish and ships
Go on a mini adventure... Perfect days
Discover the magic of the North York Moors at two fantastic National Park centres. The Moors National Park Centre set in an idyllic spot on the banks of the river Esk near Danby has adventure play areas, a mud kitchen and riverside trails to enjoy outside. Inside find interactive exhibits and Inspired by…, a beautiful contemporary art gallery. Over at Sutton Bank National Park Centre, kids can enjoy the natural play area while thrilling walks and bike rides set off straight from the door – there’s year-round bike hire and a mix of family cycle routes and more adventurous off-road thrills.
Cycling from Sutton Bank at the “Finest View in England” © Ebor Images/NYMNPA
Each visitor centre has a café and gift shop specialising in local produce and crafts, and they also run children’s events in the school holidays. Admission is free. The National Park also have a mobile information unit at Robin Hood’s Bay station car park every summer, where you can get local, expert advice from their Rangers and Voluntary Rangers on things to see and do.
Wish dragon at The Moors National Park Centre, Danby © Dan Prince/WTY/NYMNP
The Moors National Park Centre, Danby © Chris J Parker
For all the information you need to get the most from the coast, pick up a copy of the annual visitor guide, ‘Out and About in the North York Moors’ – which contains inspirational features, event listings, and details of attractions right across the National Park.
Sutton Bank adventure play area © Chris J Parker
Rockpooling at Runswick Bay © Volunteer Brian Nicholson
It’s not exactly a secret, but it is a surprise to some – the North York Moors National Park has a spectacular coastline! The name may imply it’s mainly about moors, but it also boasts 26 miles of sea cliffs, sandy bays, picturesque harbours and age-old fishing villages – not to mention another 20 miles or so of local coast outside the National Park boundary, between Filey and Saltburn. And the best way to explore it is to dive in and discover its highlights. The National Park and its local partners run coastal events all year round, a chance to try new activities and discover hidden spots, whether that’s sea kayaking at Runswick Bay, rockpooling at Robin Hood’s Bay or geocaching at Hayburn Wyke. See northyorkmoors.org.uk/events for full details. If you’re looking for a walk or bike ride by the sea, the National Park website should be your first port of call. Guided walks with expert volunteers give you the lowdown on our coastal stories, legends and heritage, or you can strike off on your own by downloading a free walking route or bike ride. Download walking routes at www.northyorkmoors.org.uk/walking Download cycling routes at www.northyorkmoors.org.uk/cycling
See for yourself
• Wander around Robin Hood’s Bay and see the many narrow alleyways and cottages dating back to these times.
• Find out more about smuggling at Robin
Hood’s Bay Museum and the National Trust’s Old Coastguard Station visitor centre.
• Fancy a smuggling tour? Ask for details of smugglers’ walks and ghost tours at the Old Coastguard Station.
Smuggler’s beer at Robin Hood’s Bay © Dan Prince
Robin Hood’s Bay from Ravenscar © Mike Kipling
Local company Baytown Beers & Spirits was clearly ‘infuenced’ by this heritage, as some of their bottles testify with names like Smuggler’s Haul, Revenue’s Revenge, and Press Gang’s Arrival.
They may have sometimes been violent, dishonest and downright dangerous people to know, but we’re intrigued by the idea of smugglers. Maybe it’s the secrecy, the tax dodging tactics or simply a childlike desire to play hide-and-seek…
Smuggling flourished despite some major successes by the excise men. Records show that in 1777 Whitby Custom House advertised a haul of 650 gallons of gin and 80 gallons of tea. These were goods they’d managed to recapture. How many others simply got passed on and sold?
It’s said that Robin Hood’s Bay was the busiest smuggling village on the east coast in the 18th century, and that a bale of silk could pass from the bottom of the village to the top without leaving the houses, thanks to the network of underground passages and hiding places.
Become a modern day smuggler...
Can you solve the Mystery of the Missing Stash in Robin Hood’s Bay? Follow the route on this self-guided smuggling adventure and you’ll explore, discover, learn and solve the hidden quirks and clues about why Robin Hood’s Bay was one of the busiest smuggling villages. Pick up the Smuggler’s Trail for £6.99 from shops and cafés in Robin Hood’s Bay and start your adventure.
It was imperative for the smugglers to move the goods from the coast to inland markets as quickly as they could. Some were carried by the alum ponies and taken on to York or even London. Evocative place names like Brandy Gap at Sawdon and Gin Garth by Danby give an indication of some of these old smuggling routes.
Bay, as it is known by the locals, was an ideal location for this illicit activity, with a broad bay surrounded by inaccessible cliffs and isolated moorlands. Many different people were involved in this dishonest but well-organised business, ranging from fishermen to the local squire. So why was smuggling such big business? During Georgian times, heavy duties were imposed on silks, tobacco, tea, wines and spirits. This was seen as unfair and a barrier to free trade so it was no surprise that local people united with the smugglers against the customs authorities. The dangers were great but rewards were many. Bay wives apparently poured boiling water over excise men from bedroom windows in the narrow alleyways.
The smugglers are long gone but you can still follow in their footsteps along the narrow alleyways of Robin Hood’s Bay. As you walk past the huddled houses and cascaded walkways, it’s quite easy to imagine the secret passageways and underground tunnels. In the Robin Hood’s Bay Museum there is a model of a smuggler’s house showing how contraband could be concealed. 08
Sunny Place, Robin Hood’s Bay © Tony Bartholomew/NYMNP
1. Cakes contain sugar. Sugar creates endorphins. Endorphins make you happy.
3. Enjoy a cake that contains courgettes, beetroot or fruit, and it could be part of your five-a-day!
4. All celebrations need cake. Celebrate anything - even just being alive!
2. The secret to good health is balance and that includes sweet things! We’re pretty keen on cake too. It seems there’s a lot of it about in the North York Moors area, which has been declared ‘Britain’s Capital of Cake’. Is there any truth to this? Only one way to find out: detailed exploration and extensive tasting needed. We’ll leave you to carry out that mission…
5. Life’s uncertain. Eat cake and dessert first!
Our word ‘cake’ comes from the Nordic word, ‘kaka’. In the Middle Ages many cakes were made of spices and ginger – a bit like the parkin still made in Yorkshire today. Sugar used to be so costly that fine white icing on cakes was a symbol of great wealth, which probably explains why traditional wedding cakes are usually finished with white icing to this day.
We took a peak into history, and discovered that cake probably arrived in this area with the Vikings so locals have certainly had plenty of experience making, eating and enjoying it.
In the Middle Ages, cakes were thrown at the bride for good luck. The guests scrambled for the crumbs and piled them high on a table. The bride and groom then had to kiss each other while leaning over the pile without it toppling in order to be blessed with a lifetime of happiness!
It’s thought that Greeks were probably the first people to use cakes to celebrate, honouring the Goddess of the Moon, possibly making moon-shaped cakes.
Find out more at www.capitalofcake.com 10
Secret Seaview, Robin Hood’s Bay © Ceri Oakes
Although it’s known as a long distance route, the Cleveland Way isn’t only for seasoned hikers. The trail can easily be broken down into very do-able sections for an enjoyable day’s outing or shorter stroll. Malcolm has been overseeing its maintenance and promotion of the trail for 26 years. Over that time he’s seen a change in visitors. “The Cleveland Way was originally Britain’s second long distance trail when it opened in 1969. It was already popular back then with walkers. Nowadays runners and families are just as likely to use sections of the trail, as well as those with particular interests such as bird-watching or fossil hunting.” The trail also gained prominence in 2016 when it became part of the England Coast Path, which aims to provide the longest waymarked continuous stretch of coastal path in the world. Malcolm adds: “To protect the trail we have a continuous restoration programme and over the years we have seen our rangers and apprentices joined by a growing band of volunteers who carry out essential maintenance work.
Cleveland Way National Trail © Tony Bartholomew
Whether you seek clifftop drama, a quiet sandy cove, the stillness of a wooded glade or the hubbub of a seaside town or fishing village, you can find your perfect spot on the North York Moors National Park’s flagship long distance National Trail. According to National Trails Officer Malcolm Hodgson, the stand-out feature of the 109-mile Cleveland Way is the sheer diversity of the landscape and points of interest for visitors along the route. Starting in Helmsley, the Cleveland Way strikes out over heather-clad moorland. Once it joins the coast at Saltburn by the Sea, the trail hugs the coastline heading south as it threads its way through tiny villages, busier seaside towns and across wilder open spaces before finally reaching Filey.
“As part of this we recently launched our hugely successful Cleveland Way Adoption Scheme. All 27 sections have been adopted by individuals, families, scout groups and organisations such as the Hardmoors running group and the Scarborough & Ryedale Mountain Rescue team who all now help care for the trail. It’s testament to the enjoyment that people get from the Cleveland Way that we now even have a waiting list of people wanting to join the adoption scheme.” Plans are already underway to mark the Cleveland Way’s 50th anniversary in 2019, including an art exhibition and the production of a new film that will showcase the wonders of the trail.
Saltburn Farmers’ Market © Tony Bartholomew
Cleveland Way National Trail © Thomas Heaton, Visit England
Geocaching on the Cleveland Way at Ravenscar © Tony Bartholomew
Staithes Illusion Trail created by Paul Czainski
Experience a mindful meander from Ravenscar © Ceri Oakes
If you don’t have the time or inclination to complete the whole challenge of the Cleveland Way, it’s easy to walk shorter sections of the well-marked route. National Trails Officer, Malcolm Hodgson shares some of his recommendations.
Our coastal ambles are the ideal way to enjoy a stroll along parts of the Cleveland Way and to see some of the most beautiful parts of the North York Moors National Park’s coastline. Routes are well-marked, with plenty of places to stop and enjoy the view, eat and drink. Choose from walks around Ravenscar, Robin Hoods’ Bay, Runswick to Staithes, Saltburn and Sandsend. Download the short walks from www.northyorkmoors.org.uk/ coastalambles
For history buffs
One of the most intriguing history-laden places has to be Ravenscar. The clifftop views are fantastic and the setting is made all the more evocative because of the remains of the Peak Alum works, together with evidence of the once grand Victorian plans (that were eventually shelved) for the location to be a spa town to rival Scarborough.
For families looking for an active adventure
Together with the National Trust we hold geocaching events along coastal sections of the trail, at Robin Hood’s Bay, Ravenscar and Hayburn Wyke. All three locations are great for young explorers with everything from dramatic clifftops through to woodland walks and even a waterfall that drops down to a pebble beach.
For art lovers
There’s a flourishing art scene along the coast but the beautiful fishing village of Staithes is a must-do for those who want to combine a stroll along the Cleveland Way with browsing in art galleries. The village was once home to the Staithes Group of impressionist artists and it’s easy to see why they were inspired to paint when you look out at the views from the tiny harbour.
For walkers who love their food
Head to Saltburn on the second Saturday of every month between April and December and strike out on a bracing walk along the trail before heading back and making a beeline for the town’s thriving farmers’ market. Afterwards retreat to the sandy beach to devour your picnic of locally-produced treats. Find out more: nationaltrail.co.uk/cleveland-way Coastal view towards Robin Hood’s Bay © Ebor Images 14
Fylingdales and the Penny Hedge
The seemingly empty moor at Fylingdales is rich with evidence of human occupation - standing stones, trackways and earthworks. This heritage is also reflected in how the grazing rights are managed: controlled by an ancient body, the Fyling Court Leet, guardian of nearly 7,000 acres of moorland, which can trace its origins to Norman times. Since 1999 this area has been designated a Site of Special Scientific Interest but the Court continues to manage the heather, control the bracken and ensure no improper use is made of this glorious tract of moor.
Very little remains of Gisborough Priory, but the ruins still hold their stories. Just before the dissolution of the monastery, Henry VIII’s commissioner assessed it as the fourth wealthiest monastic house in Yorkshire. The fame of the priory’s wealth lived on even after the monastery was destroyed. A legend grew up about an underground passage from the priory to the nearby hills, with a chest containing a treasure in gold guarded by a raven. At some point a cobbler by the name of Crispin Tocketts decided to try his luck as a treasure hunter. He put a ball of wool in his pocket to give a line to follow to take him back to the tunnel mouth and safety. He eventually reached the chest and began struggling to open the heavy lid. At that moment the raven appeared, landing on the lid and forcing it closed. As Crispin wrestled with the chest the huge bird transformed into the devil. The unfortunate cobbler turned and ran, emerging empty handed but alive.
There is also an ancient custom over which the bailiff of the Manor of Fyling presides: The Penny Hedge. In 1159, on the Eve of Ascension Day, three aristocrats were out on the moor hunting wild boar. They found the trail of an animal and tracked it to the home of a hermit on Eskdaleside. Determined to pursue their quarry, the hunters attacked and killed the hermit to get at the boar. The Abbot of Whitby took a dim view of their actions and ordered the men to undertake a penance for their crime. He pronounced that they should build a hedge, cut with a penny knife, in the River Esk when the water was running at low tide. If the hedge was not strong enough to withstand three tides, or if the noblemen refused to undertake the penance, their lands would be forfeit.
It’s said the site of Gisborough’s treasure is also patrolled by a punctual monk in a black cowl. He is reputed to turn up at midnight when the first new moon of a new year appears, to check that the treasure remains undisturbed. He lowers a ghostly drawbridge, crosses a spectral moat and glides to the supposed location of the treasure chest. There are claims that he appeared, on time, to witnesses in 1966 and 1967 but, mysteriously, only occasionally thereafter.
So, every year, on the Eve of Ascension Day, a hedge is built and, once complete, the bailiff shouts: “Out on ye!” three times.
Artist and writer, Ian Scott Massie tells some of the stories behind familiar places in the North York Moors National Park. The North York Moors is a landscape of stories. Saints and soldiers, smugglers and pilgrims, thieves and industrialists have all had their moments in the sun here. These stories contain a tiny gleaning of this rich harvest of tales, the merest taste of the history, folklore and legend that overlays this land like a tapestry. 16
Robin Hood’s Bay
It wasn’t long, however, before the pier began shrinking. The first disaster was a storm of 1875 which demolished the landing stage and resulted in a rebuilt pier of 380m. The cliff lift was discovered to have rotten timbers in 1883 and was replaced with the much-loved, water-balanced funicular which has been gliding down and up from town to pier ever since.
Most people associate the Bay with smugglers. It has plenty of other tales to tell. One of the Bay’s most heroic stories tells of The Visitor - a brig which ran aground in a violent storm in 1881. A team of 18 horses was used to haul the Whitby Lifeboat 6 miles overland. The main street was too narrow to get the boat down, so a group of men led the way demolishing walls and uprooting trees to create a passage. Two hours after leaving Whitby the lifeboat was launched - on the second attempt - and the crew saved.
Runswick Bay is very beautiful. It’s also full of danger if you believe all the local superstitions… Since the 11th century 40 towns along the East Coast have been swallowed by the sea. Runswick’s big moment came in 1682. The entire village plunged into the waves, save for one cottage, when the whole cliff face collapsed during an exceptional storm. In 1858, caught between water running off the moors and the eroding effects of the North Sea, a smelting furnace even toppled into the waves. You might have thought these catastrophes would have encouraged a certain reverence for life, but strangely not, it seems. One Runswick Bay superstition held that it was unlucky to save a drowning man. Imagine your joy at being thrown a rope from the shoreline, only to have it withdrawn on the advice of the village elders. And cats weren’t safe either. Another ritual involved throwing a sacrificial feline into the sea when the fishing boats returned after a storm. So why go to Runswick Bay? Well it is one of the most beautiful places on a coast embarrassingly rich in loveliness. The curving shoreline, the red-roofed houses piled up the cliff, the tiny lifeboat station - despite all the ‘dangers’, it’s wonderful!
The pier is an important feature in Saltburn. It started out 460m long in 1869 with a landing stage for steamers and had 50,000 visitors in the first six months. A year later tourists could reach the pier by means of a cliff lift which lowered 20 people 37m vertically in a wooden cage.
In 1924 a Russian china clay steamer bisected the pier, leaving the Victorian bandstand inaccessible. Repairs were made but, after damage from gales in 1953, 1971 and 1973, it was proposed to remove the pier altogether. A vigorous campaign to save the landmark succeeded and the restored version - now a modest 208m - opened in 1978.
Whitby is a place of many stories: of Saint Hilda turning snakes to stone, of Dracula’s arrival on a stricken Russian schooner, of the explorers Cook and Scoresby, but a story that particularly intrigues me is the fate of the Abbey bells. After centuries of ringing out over the town, the bronze bells were brought down from their wooden cage in the tower by Henry VIII’s commissioners and loaded onto carts. The convoy moved slowly down to the quayside to a waiting vessel and the heavy cargo was stowed away. The sails were set, the ropes untied and the vessel moved away from the quay and out into the gentle swell of a calm sea. Then, just off Black Nab, less than a mile from the abbey, the ship slowly slipped beneath the waves. Perhaps the cargo shifted, perhaps it was just the sheer weight of the bells that caused the ship to disappear and take its load to the bottom of the sea. And there they remain to this day, tolling in the deep with the rolling of the sea. 18
Story excerpts and illustrations taken from Ian Scott Massie’s illustrated book Moor Stories available from www.ianscottmassie.com 19
The fishing industry was essential to the development of villages like Staithes and Robin Hood’s Bay. It’s shaped the coastline and the people, and plays a role in everyday life. We invited local fisherman, Sean Baxter to tell us more.
In the 15th century, coves and inlets provided a natural haven for mariners to escape the ravages of the sea. Villages such as Staithes, Robin Hood’s Bay and Runswick Bay began to spring up. At one time whaling was the most lucrative occupation from larger ports like Whitby, but by the 1800s fishing became more important. Key catches were cod, ling and herring. By the late 1800s, Staithes had grown to become one of the largest fishing ports on the north east coast of England. Looking at the small harbour now, it’s hard to believe around 300 Staithes men were engaged in the fishing industry. They fished from locally-made wooden cobles or larger five-man boats. The design of the cobles was based on the Viking long boat.
Real Staithes, All My Sons © Tony Bartholomew
The pigment or cutch was mixed with oil to coat the sails and protect them from the seawater. Three cauldrons were used in Staithes to boil the sails during the tanning process. Each of the cottages would also have a barking shed or cellar for tanning fishing lines and nets.
Cobles had flat bottoms, so could be launched from sandy beaches as there were no harbours at this time. The high stern and bow enabled the boats to withstand the waves and swells while lower sides made it easier to haul in the fishing nets. You could often tell where a coble came from by its colour. Staithes cobles were traditionally painted red, blue and white.
Towards the end of the 1800s, the coming of the railway line along the coast changed the face of the industry, making the villages less remote. Fresh fish could be transported across the rest of the country. The advent of steam power initially enabled the villages to flourish. Apparently in Staithes, enough cod, mackerel and haddock were landed for the North Eastern Railway to run 3-4 fish trains a week. Herring fishing was a huge business with large fishing fleets leaving the shores as shoals of the ‘silver darlings’ migrated southwards.
Later came the yawls: bigger boats with larger sails that could venture out further for deep-sea fishing and stay out for days on-end.
The introduction of steam-powered trawlers that needed to dock in larger harbours began to sound the death knell for the traditional fishing villages. This was exacerbated by the muchdepleted stocks of fish that local fishermen faced, as a result of the bigger fishing capacity of the trawlers, and competition from boats coming from as far away as Scotland.
Virtually the whole of the community would have been engaged in fish-related occupations. Women played an active role, collecting and preparing bait, tanning and repairing nets, and knitting the fishermen’s ganseys and socks. Women also helped carry the fresh catch up from the beach. To do this they wore a bonnet with a reinforced crown enabling them to carry fully-laden baskets and lines on their heads. One of the last remaining places to see the bonnets was in Staithes, and until recently, the headwear was still worn on special occasions.
‘Repus’ restored fishing coble with carved fisherman, Skinningrove © North York Morrs National Park
As fishing became harder, many began working in the local ironstone mines. Tourism began to develop as visitors came to the villages on the trains. By 1951, only one fishing coble remained in Staithes and, with continued over-fishing in the North Sea, the Common Fisheries Policy was established and subsequently introduced fishing quotas in the 1980s.
Many boats would be built locally. Sails would also be made and preserved with cutch. Cutch is a dye, which turned the sails brown or red. 21
© Yorkshire Wildlife Trust
The coast off the North York Moors National Park is abundant with some of the finest seafood around. Fisheries for the Future Oficer, Dr. James Wood from Yorkshire Wildlife Trust outlines a new partnership project initiative with the National Park, championing locally-caught seafood that doesn’t cost the earth. Yorkshire pudding, Wensleydale cheese... why not Scarborough Scallops?
The North York Moors National Park coastline is famous for its beautiful beaches, picturesque moors and fishing villages. Fewer people realise Yorkshire is also home to the largest brown crab and lobster fishery in Europe. Over 3,000 tonnes are landed throughout the Yorkshire Coast each year, supporting a vibrant fishing industry.
Herb crusted fillet of Yorkshire Whiting, one of the new signature dishes © Yorkshire Wildlife Trust
© Yorkshire Wildlife Trust
One of the greatest challenges within Yorkshire’s coastal communities has been a loss of local demand and seafood preparation skills. Local supermarkets have been stocking Canadian lobsters whilst several tonnes of local catch have been landed just a few miles away, which is almost exclusively exported to the continent.
From Whitby to Scarborough, and Bridlington to Spurn Point, every coastal town or village has their own unique fishing heritage. Where vast fleets of trawlers once graced Whitby and Scarborough, and cobles jostled for room on the Flamborough landings, a new contemporary shellfish industry has emerged.
Yorkshire Wildlife Trust, in partnership with the North York Moors National Park, is launching a new initiative to help showcase our seafood. Working with fishermen and restaurants, we’re developing a new local ‘Signature Seafood’ concept to promote the availability of quality seasonal fish in restaurants throughout North Yorkshire and the East Riding.
With expanding fleets in Bridlington, Scarborough and Whitby, a change in vessel design and type can be noted throughout the region. Heavy wooden cobles and trawlers have gradually been replaced with lightweight catamarans and keel boats designed for hauling and shooting pots. The most common catches landed to the quayside are now brown (edible) crab, European lobster, velvet crabs, whelks and scallops, replacing cod and whitefish.
The partnership is creating a series of signature dishes with the help of local specialist, Seafish Ambassador and former Seafood Chef of the Year, Rob Green. The emphasis is on locally sourced, seasonally available fish. Working to a series of simple but elegant recipes designed by Rob, our ambition is to recruit a network of seafood champion restaurants throughout 2018 and 2019 who can offer a range of seasonal dishes.
Find out more about today’s fishing industry and how the initiative is progressing by going to www.northyorkmoors.org.uk/seafood 22
© John Worall
We asked Steve Race and Richard Baines who run Yorkshire Coast Nature for their top twenty nature highlights around the moorland and coast of the North York Moors. Some of these incredible natural sights can be quite elusive so you might want to book a nature safari with Yorkshire Coast Nature to learn how to spot them!
These large predators hunt at night and their shells can grow up to 25cm wide. They breed in winter and females can lay up to three million eggs! Look out for them in large rockpools but be very careful not to disturb them as they have a nasty nip!
The North York Moors has one of the UK’s biggest populations of this enigmatic nocturnal bird. Arriving from Africa in May and returning in September, their favourite habitat is heathland or forest clearings. Listen for their ‘churring’ song at dusk which contains an amazing 1,900 notes per minute!
Powerful and loud, the curlew uses its very long bill to probe sandy mud for invertebrate food. Look out for them anywhere on the rugged shoreline in autumn and winter. You might be surprised to learn that many of our winter curlews nest in Scandinavia as well as breeding on the moorland of the North York Moors.
Common spotted orchid
Many species called ‘common’ are thought to have been so named because they were found on common land. Look for this beautiful orchid on alkaline soil, including the side of limestone tracks in the forests or on the Hawk and Owl Trust’s Jugger Howe Nature Trail on Fylingdales Moor.
Gliding effortlessly above the Jurassic cliffs where they nest on a ledge above the sea, the fulmar is a bird with amazing adaptations. They can live up to 40 years, and have a special extra nasal cavity which helps dispose of salt and detect food many miles away.
This beautiful insect has the longest abdomen of any UK dragonfly and vivid green eyes. Look for them from early summer through to autumn in their favoured habitat, the uplands, where they breed in pools within the moors or forest.
This amazing bird nests on fast running streams. Try looking for them on the river Esk near Whitby or at Boggle Hole. They feed underwater on invertebrates, helped by the fact that their bones are solid rather than hollow so they don’t float back to the surface.
Early purple orchid
The first orchid of the year to appear. Look out for them between April and June in woodland clearings or grassland by the side of the former Scarborough to Whitby railway line (the ‘Cinder Track’). Each spike can have as many as 50 flowers! 24
The Latin name of these seals means “hooked-nosed sea pig”. Ravenscar is our largest colony. Look out for them from afar or in any bay on the coast. They give birth in autumn when they can be seen on the rocks tending their young pups. Please take care not to disturb these colonies. If you see a seal on a beach, don’t get too close. Dogs should not be taken near them as they can frighten them. 25
Migrant hawker dragonfly
Amazing to think of this delicate insect crossing the North Sea. This beautiful dragonfly can be seen along hedges and in grassland on the coastal cliffs from late summer. In autumn many more arrive from the continent and often survive into November.
The subject of much 19th century poetry, the Harebell or “fairest flower” (Shakespeare) must be one of the most delicate and beautiful of all our cliff top plants. It was dedicated as the County Flower of Yorkshire in 2002. Look out for it in grassland from July to September.
Famous for reaching speeds of up to 200mph on a stoop, peregrine falcons can be seen anywhere on the coast. Look towards the cliff top at Cowbar near Staithes. The adults usually remain within their home range all year round.
These small moths arrive as migrants in late autumn often alongside painted lady butterflies. Look out for them on flowers such as fleabane. They have a delicate ‘y’ shape on their wing.
Rockpools such as those at Robin Hood’s Bay are great habitats in winter, especially for crazy creatures like the squat lobster. These shy and tiny animals sit in their rock crevices waiting for food to pass by as they try to hide from bigger predators.
One of our earliest migrant birds to arrive back from Africa at the end of March is the striking wheatear. Look out for a flash of white as they fly over rocky cliffs searching for insect food. When they land they stand tall, always on the lookout.
Flowering between March and May, the wood anemone prefers to grow in old woods such as at Hayburn Wyke. This beautiful but poisonous flower was picked by the Romans who believed that the first flower of the season should be plucked as a charm to safeguard against fever.
The short ephemeral life of a butterfly has never been so spectacular. Their short life involves a migration of thousands of miles from North Africa to the Yorkshire coast. Look out for them feeding on wild flowers on the cliff tops from late summer.
The vivid colours of the oystercatcher are unmistakable. Look out for them searching for mussels at any time of year and on almost any beach or rocky shore. Their bills are very strong and flattened at the end to help open shells. 26 24
Richard Baines YorkshireCoastNature.co.uk 25 27
If you fancy something more participative, The White Hart Inn in Mickleby has sing-a-round folk events on Saturday evenings. Whitby has several noteworthy festivals, including the biennial Whitby Goth Weekend and the Whitby Blues, Rhythm & Rock Festival in October. Also in October, the annual Musicport Festival is known for its world music and draws many regular fans. The Endeavour pub holds a blues music evening on Tuesdays. Sea Shanties, traditional folk dancers and music all feature at Whitby Folk Week every August. More folk music can be enjoyed at Whitby Folk Club and at other local venues. Robin Hood’s Bay draws many fans of folk music. Ye Dolphin Inn facilitates a folk club most Friday evenings. Tea, Toast and Post is enjoying a growing reputation for its music events. The annual Folk Weekend takes place in the summer with music, dance and sing-a-rounds throughout the village.
Whitby Folk Week © Tony Bartholomew
From sea shanties to folk, and rhythm & blues to world music, the North York Moors coast has it covered. Make your way down the coastline and sample some of these musical delights on your travels.
In winter, Normafest is a must for folk aficionados. It’s a celebration of Norma Waterson MBE – one of the original members of The Watersons, a renowned English traditional folk group. The festival headlines folk bands such as Dervish and other traditional acts play at various venues in Robin Hood’s Bay and Whitby.
Ye Dolphin, Robin Hood’s Bay © Tony Bartholomew
Find out more: northyorkmoors.org.uk/musiconthecoast
Overlooking the sea, The Spa Hotel in Saltburn hosts an array of acts as part of their Live by the Sea programme. Some well-known bands have played here, including China Crisis and Mark Morriss from The Bluetones. The Cutty Wren Folk Club runs evening folk sessions from a range of venues and organises the local Folk Festival every August. Saltburn Blues Club offers monthly sessions. There are more blues at the Howzat Festival in autumn. Staithes plays host to pop-up music events in venues around the village during the Festival of Arts & Heritage in September. Nearby is the Runcible Spoon, another café which holds a ‘Pot Luck’ music evening once a month from April through to October. 28 24
Whitby Folk Week © Tony Bartholomew
Start your Staithes exploration in the Captain Cook & Staithes Heritage Centre, featuring a recreated 1745 street scene. Find out more about the rich marine life at Robin Hood’s Bay in the National Trust’s visitor centre in the Old Coastguard Station. Pick up a Family Tracker Pack to help you explore this special place and enjoy family activities together.
Want some inspiration for familyfriendly ways to spend your time on the coast? Here are a few ideas
Learn about the richness of local life in Robin Hood’s Bay Museum, housed in what used to be the Coroner’s Room and Mortuary. Follow the Staithes Illusion Trail around the village created by trompe l’oeil artist Paul Czainski.
Rockpooling along the North York Moors coast © North York Moors National Park
Hire a bike from Trailways at Hawsker and follow part of the traffic-free former Scarborough to Whitby railway line (the ‘Cinder Track’) for four miles back to Whitby. Not only are you treated to spectacular coastal views but you also get to pedal over the impressive 13 arches of Larpool Viaduct.
Children playing on the beach at Runswick Bay © Ebor Images
Take a walk along the Grade II listed Victorian pleasure pier in Saltburn, marvelling at the view below through the gaps in the wooden floor. Look out for the latest colourful yarn-bombing! Find ammonites of all kinds on display at Whitby Museum as well as exhibitions on a range of subjects from Captain Cook and William Scoresby, to archaeology, witch posts, model ships and local jet.
Saltburn’s Victorian pier © Ceri Oakes
Spot some of the places featured in CBeebies’ ‘Old Jack’s Boat’ which was filmed in Staithes, using the sticker trail leaflet available from Staithes shops and cafés. Take a trip on the Saltburn Miniature Railway running from Cat Nab Station close to the beach for about half a mile inland to Forest Halt in Saltburn Valley Gardens.
Hire a bike from Trailways at Hawsker © Tony Bartholomew
The sea has inspired countless generations of artists who’ve loved the quality of light here, the impact of nature on the landscape and the incredible skies above the coastline. In the 19th century the ‘Staithes Group’, an art colony of around 25 artists, inspired others to come to the North York Moors Coast to paint and enjoy the special light. Increasing numbers of artists continue to come in search of inspiration and a sense of freedom, thanks to the refreshing open spaces of the moors, and the wide sea vistas. Their creativity is fuelled by the towering cliffs and cottages huddled around the historic harbours. These are just a few of the contemporary artists whose work has been inspired by the coast around Staithes, Saltburn, Sandsend, Whitby and Robin Hood’s Bay.
Colin Cook James McGairy Richard Hawkin Bridget Wilkinson
Painting at Staithes © Al Milnes
Galleries where you can see work by local artists and craftspeople Inspired by... gallery at The Moors National Park Centre, Danby Staithes Gallery, Staithes Studio Gallery, and the Slipway Studio in Staithes Coast Gallery and Tea Room in Cloughton Wold Pottery in Loftus
Staithes Gallery at twilight © Al Milnes
Gillies Jones’ studio © Dan Prince/WTY/NYMNP
Blue Shed Studio Gallery in Port Mulgrave
Inspired by... gallery, Danby © Chris J Parker
Saltbox Gallery in Helmsley Joe Cornish Gallery in Northallerton Gillies Jones in Rosedale Abbey Bils & Rye in Kirkbymoorside Staithes Festival of Arts & Heritage for popup galleries every September
Want to try for yourself?
Staithes Gallery is a showcase for the very best contemporary artwork inspired by Staithes and the surrounding coast and moorlands of the North York Moors. It’s also the home of Staithes Art School which organises painting weekends and bespoke painting breaks to enable painters of all ages and all levels of experience to make the most of the wonderful painting opportunities the inspirational village of Staithes has to offer. www.staithesgallery.co.uk
© Staithes Festival of Arts & Heritage
Enjoying an ice cream in Sandsend © Dan Prince/WTY/NYMNP
All these places to eat and drink are recommended by locals – don’t go home until you’ve tried each one! Secret Seaview is Robin Hood’s Bay best kept secret! Can you find it? It’s a stylish café bar with a stunning terrace looking out to sea. Look out for their pop-up events throughout the year.
Tea, Toast and Post in Robin Hood’s Bay serves great food in a quirky setting. Listen to golden oldies on the free jukebox as you enjoy a break! Virgo’s in Saltburn is something of a local institution, serving brunches, afternoon tea, tapas and cocktails.
Real Meals in Saltburn is run by Lorna who is passionate about regional food. A favourite with locals, it’s a great café and deli. She also organizes the Saltburn Farmers’ Market and Food Festival.
Wits End Café in Sandsend prides itself on its good simple food served in a relaxing walled garden. It’s only 50 metres from the sea overlooking the bay.
Sandside Café perched on the beach side at Sandsend is a relaxing spot where you can enjoy a warming drink or light meal while watching the oystercatchers patrolling the golden sands and shingle below.
The Quarterdeck Café at Boggle Hole YHA has breathtaking sea views and is an ideal stopping-off point during a walk along the coast. In winter you can toast your toes in front of the wood burning stove!
Treat yourself to ice-cream, fudge or jet jewellery at Cobbles in Staithes. Which famous explorer can you spot on the wall inside? The Royal Hotel pub in Runswick Bay enjoys a wonderful cliff side setting for tucking into a meal while watching the ever-changing seascape. The Cliffemount Hotel in Runswick Bay specialises in fish and locally caught seafood. The restaurant offers sweeping views across the Bay.
Birch Hall Inn in Beck Hole is possibly North Yorkshire’s smallest and quirkiest pub, with two tiny bars and a traditional sweet shop squeezed in between! Dogs are also made very welcome. Runswick Bay Hotel serves hearty, traditional food which is perfect to give you energy for a lovely long coastal walk!
Tea, Toast and Post, Robin Hood’s Bay © Tony Bartholomew
Real Meals, Saltburn © Ceri Oakes
Bridge Cottage Bistro in Sandsend has a delightful garden for eating al fresco, a contemporary interior and a chef who is passionate about serving classic dishes with a modern twist. It’s worth booking to avoid disappointment.
Barn Owl Café and Bistro is set in its own private grounds between Hinderwell and Staithes. A varied menu means you can visit at any time for breakfast, lunch or dinner. It’s even got its very own antiques mall.
Laurel Inn in Robin Hood’s Bay is a charming unspoilt pub with beams, real fire and a focus on serving good real ales. Gin fans will love their new gin selection.
Falling Foss Tea Garden couldn’t be any more picturesque. Nestled in beautiful woodland with a spectacular waterfall, it’s the perfect spot for a treat after a walk.
The Runcible Spoon café in Hinderwell has a bright, homely feel, fresh food, friendly service and features special music evenings. Try a taste of Robin Hood’s Bay while you’re here. Many cafés serve locally ground coffee from The Baytown Coffee Company.
Bridge Cottage Bistro, Sandsend © Ceri Oakes
The Coffee Shack at the bottom of Robin Hood’s Bay is now a creperie, serving different flavoured sweet and savoury pancakes.
Boggle Hole Quarterdeck Cafe © Tony Bartholomew
Some of the best stargazing locations worth checking out: Old Saltburn
Sit and gaze at the stars down by the long expanse of sandy beach.
The highest clifftop on the east coast of England, Boulby feels like it’s the middle of nowhere and yet it’s less than half a mile from the main road between Saltburn and Staithes.
With vast expanses of unpolluted skies and a drier climate, the stretch of coastline that includes the North York Moors National Park is one of the best places to see incredibly starry skies.
Kettleness, between Runswick Bay and Whitby, offers a superb dark sky vantage point from the clifftop. With little artificial light, on a clear night, you can spy up to 2,00 stars at any one time.
According to astronomer and dark sky hunter Richard Darn, the clearer skies result from the north east’s drier climate and the uninterrupted horizons at numerous cliff top locations. They make the stretch of coastline between Saltburn and Scarborough a potential haven for sky watchers.
Ravenscar and Boggle Hole Both are excellent locations for stargazing, being right on the coast and away from major development.
Scarborough & Ryedale Astronomical Society holds public stargazing events in Dalby Forest most months between October and March. With its official Dark Sky Discovery Status, it has truly dark skies and is one of the best places in the country for stargazing, as too are the National Park Centres at Sutton Bank and Danby. Look out for the annual Dark Skies Festival every February. Discover the thrills, fun and nocturnal wildlife wonders that come with getting outside after dark. From cycling, walking and running to wildlifewatching and stargazing parties, find out more about the sky above you on one of the many events and activities up and down the coast. www.darkskiesnationalparks.org.uk
Northern Lights at Saltwick Bay © Andy Dawson Photography
Local lass Elizabeth Snowdon makes a fabulous range of cheeses in her tiny workshop, The Whitby Cheese Company - buy creamy ‘Endeavour’ and ‘Yorkshire Jersey’ in Botham’s of Whitby on Skinner Street and Sandsend Stores.
Food writer Amanda Wragg offers her top tips Kick off at Boggle Hole Youth Hostel if it’s a heart-starting espresso and a lemon and poppy seed muffin you’re after; the Quarterdeck Café, with its terrace practically hanging over the beach is a great place to begin your odyssey (we love to hunker down by the wood stove in the winter!) Find another stunning seascape at the Secret Seaview Café in Robin Hood’s Bay. Treat yourself to breakfast with the papers on the veranda - it feels as if you’re floating over the ocean. Score fresh fish, kippers and crab at Bay Fisheries in the village - their smoked salmon and cream cheese tarts are to die for. At the top of the nose-bleedingly steep bank is the Fish Box, a shiny, tiny sit-down and take-away chippy frying up as fine a portion of fish & chips as you’ll find anywhere on the coast. The Hare & Hounds at High Hawsker is a handsome, family-friendly inn serving up crowd-pleasing, value for money pub grub. The welcome is warm and there’s a beer garden to eat out on sunny days. Your canine chum is welcome too! Chuck a brick in Whitby and you’ll hit a kitsch caff. Slightly off the beaten track is Rusty Shears, and not only do they make their own pastries (the spicy lamb parcels really are sublime) they’re also ‘licensed to sell amazing cakes’ AND there’s a 90-strong gin menu. On a warm day, sitting in the yard under the trees, you could be in Italy. The Whitby Deli stocks an eye-watering array of store cupboard staples, much of it produced in Yorkshire.
The Magpie Café is a legend , for a reason. The menu is vast, though we rarely order anything but fish & chips – why not, when the cod and haddock’s been caught that morning in the sea outside the front door? You’ll often find a long queue snaking down the street but it’s worth the wait. Andrew Pern’s Star Inn the Harbour, a huge, jolly restaurant is a great place for a family meal - the menu features local seafood and game – and the kids will love the ice cream parlour! The fine dining menu at the Bridge Cottage Bistro in Sandsend is eclectic and inventive. During the day it’s a café - sit in their herby garden on a sunny day with a latte and slice of pomegranate cake. The timbered Sandside Café is bang on the beach; their crab sandwiches are legendary. Drop down another vertiginous bank to beautiful Runswick Bay; there’s nothing we like more than sitting outside the Royal Hotel with a plate of fat prawn sandwiches and a pint, looking out over the perfect crescent of golden sand. Betsy & Bo on the High Street in Staithes is a chic shop selling beautifully packaged chocolate from all over the world. Look out too for old favourites such as liquorice, gob-stoppers and lucky bags; it’s nirvana for kids. Next door is their general store - alongside posh Italian wine and crazy, striped pasta, there’s cheese from the fabulous Courtyard Dairy and good sourdough bread. If you’re a lover of 50s style, Dotty’s Tearoom is next door, and you’ve a real treat in store. It’s all frilly lampshades and china cups; Trudie’s afternoon tea is perfect after a bracing yomp on the headland. Bring an appetite - the cake stands are piled high! Her cheese scones are the size of elephants’ feet. Really.
Dotty About Vintage, Staithes © Ceri Oakes
Rusty Shears, Whitby © Ceri Oakes
Betsy & Bo, Staithes © Ceri Oakes
Head for the stylish Guns Bar in Saltburn for a wide choice of craft beer on tap and bottled, and a diverse gin menu. It’s a very cool space with nooks and crannies, artwork on dark walls and a cracking wood stove in the winter. Homemade pie and pickle too! Whitby Deli © Ceri Oakes
Derek Fox Butchers, Malton © Malton CIC 44 24
Captain Cook Look Out! Discovery Trail
Take a trip on the small replica of the Bark Endeavour in Whitby © RJB Photographic.
Want to go on your own exploration to discover more about our Cook connections? Pick up the ‘Look Out! Discovery Trail’ leaflet from National Park Centres at Sutton Bank and Danby and from various Tourism Information Centres, accommodation providers and attractions.
k and how did he Who was James Coo ? become an explorer
James Cook was born on 27 October 1728 in Marton. In 1736, the family moved to Aireyholme Farm, near Great Ayton, in what is now the North York Moors National Park, where Cook attended the village school from the age of eight. Cook often climbed nearby Roseberry Topping, enjoying the views of the sea. At 16 he left to be a shop assistant in William Sanderson’s grocery store in Staithes. In 1746, Cook moved to Whitby to start work as an apprentice seaman to Master Mariner John Walker. When not at sea, Walker lodged Cook in the house he and his brother owned in Grape Lane, which is now the Captain Cook Memorial Museum. His eagerness to learn earned him vital command skills such as navigation and astronomy. Soon he received an invitation to command one of the coal ships, which he turned down in favour of enlisting as an able seaman in the Royal Navy. Before long, he had risen through the ranks, commanding a number of ships under the Royal Navy fleet. Cook’s navigational skills were instrumental in mapping Newfoundland, which brought him to the attention of the Admiralty and The Royal Society. This led to his commission in 1768 as Commander of HM Bark Endeavour for the first of three Pacific voyages.
Trace the footsteps of Cook’s childhood
Take yourself on a journey through Cook’s early life in the North York Moors and visit the numerous museums, monuments and attractions in the area that tell the story of the famous explorer.
er 1728 in Marton, near Cook was born on 27 Octob North d to Great Ayton in the Middlesbrough. He move where he attended the York Moors as a young boy, Roseberry Topping y nearb up ed climb village school and to be distant sea. At 16, he left to catch a glimpse of the store in m Sanderson’s grocery a shop assistant in Willia y Whitb to d move he until Staithes. But it wasn’t long studied apprentice seaman. He work as anMonument to startCook’s as Captain near Great © Ebor Images edAyton enlist later and omy maths, navigation and astron Navy. Before long, he had all there is to know an able seaman in the Royal Don’t worry, you can find land and ound Newf ing chart , on the Look Out! Trail risen through the ranks and what’s to be found the sun. ite. observing an eclipse of on the webs
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Roseberry Topping, Cook’s Monument and Aireyholme Farm in history.
? What was his mission
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, aboard the Bark Endeavour Whitby Your mission Harbour tour you
shouldreplica of Cook’s original ship, the Bark Endeavour offers scenic trips around Whitby A smaller choose to harbour andit...along the coast to Sandsend, accompanied by traditional sea shanties and tales of the accept life ofBefore Cook and the history of Whitby. setting sail for new horizons, it was here in the North York Moors that James of Cook discovered his love of the sea, and he’s left a trail er. discovery for you to uncov the along clues the Follow Look Out! Trail to see where he lived, what he learnt, who he inspired and you could become the next great explorer. Anchors away!
Private group tour of Captain Cook Country
2018 marks the 250th anniversary of James Cook setting sail on HM Bark Endeavour to observe the transit of Venus across the Sun in the Pacific Ocean and travel further to explore Australia and New Zealand. This Private Tour from York, Leeds or Harrogate provides the opportunity for your own group of up to 15 people to explore Captain Cook Country and commemorate his momentous first voyage. Find out more: northyorkmoors.org.uk/captaincook
Roseberry Topping © Ebor Images
The North York Moors coastline has always inspired explorers, most notably James Cook, as they looked out to sea and wondered at the world beyond. However, the connection to discovery is made all the stronger as the area was once a powerhouse for building the ships that would transport these maritime adventurers.
From summer 2018, you’ll be able to go onboard this family-friendly visitor attraction and fire your imagination, discovering more about life on an 18th century explorer’s ship. Learn about Cook’s historic three-year voyage which helped transform nautical navigation after work by an astronomer onboard the Endeavour, observing the Transit of Venus across the sun from Tahiti, enabled essential calculations of the solar system to be completed.
One of the best known of these ships is HM Bark Endeavour which was built in Whitby in 1764 to carry coal before it was commissioned by the Navy four years later and prepared for Captain Cook’s first voyage to New Zealand and Australia. Centuries later and two full-scale replicas of the ship were built, one that resides in Australia while the other was located further north in Stockton on Tees. This refurbished HM Bark Endeavour replica is now berthed in its spiritual home of Whitby in the fittingly-named Endeavour Wharf.
Better known perhaps are the voyage’s accomplishments in charting New Zealand and the East Coast of Australia, as well as the recording of more than 1,000 new species of plants and animals. The Endeavour will complement the existing landmarks and attractions dedicated to the great explorer, including the Captain Cook Memorial Museum in Whitby.
The 33-metre long replica was purchased at auction in 2017 by local businessman Andrew Fiddler, securing its future as a Whitby attraction having beaten bids that could have seen it relocated to London, Portsmouth or even Dubai. 48 24
HM Bark Endeavour images © CAG Photography
Enjoy a pet-friendly café or pub There are lots of restaurants, cafés and pubs in the North York Moors that welcome dogs (and well-behaved owners too!).
Reward your furry friend
Fuzzy Dog Bakery in Whitby produces homemade, non-artificial treats to satisfy even the fussiest of canines.
Holidays are for all the family, and that includes your furry friend! With dog-friendly beaches, stunning historic sites and lots of pubs and cafés fit for humans and hounds, the North York Moors has got everything you need for a dog-friendly holiday.
The Bay Hotel in the Dock at Robin Hood’s Bay marks the end of the Coast to Coast walk. It offers hearty, home cooked meals and is literally a stone’s throw away from the beach.
Ice cream isn’t just for humans! Frozzys for Dogs is a lickable frozen yogurt, lactose free and comes in four flavours. It’s sold in Staithes at Betsy & Bo, who specialise in traditional sweets, and Cobbles.
The White Horse & Griffin, located in Whitby’s traditional east side, transports visitors to a bygone era. It welcomes dogs in the bar area as well as offering dog-friendly rooms.
Wags & Whiskers Pet Boutique in Saltburn offers a range of luxury treats for dogs, including beef suppers and bow ties.
The magical woodland at Maybeck gives you the opportunity to tire your dog out – after which you can reward yourself with cake in the idyllic setting of Falling Foss Tea Garden.
Find out more with links to the places mentioned above on northyorkmoors. org.uk/dogfriendlyholidays
The River Garden Café in Ruswarp is renowned for its Whitby Crab sandwiches and scones with jam and cream. It boasts steam train viewing opportunities and satisfies greenfingered visitors with a garden centre too. Sandsend Café offers traditional homemade, locally sourced food with an amazing view. Enjoy the outside decking area with a glass of wine in hand!
Choose your dog-friendly accommodation
Visit historic attractions and beautiful beaches
The North York Moors offers a fantastic range of dog-friendly options to choose from, including B&Bs, self-catering, camping and glamping. For extra woof factor, luxury options like The Spa Hotel, Saltburn have dog-friendly rooms with French windows for direct access outside. They even sell Woof dog beer (nonalcoholic!). If it’s dog sitting you’re looking for, the team at Star PawsPet Services in Saltburn offer dog boarding so that you can enjoy your accommodation even if your dog can’t! Cross Country Canines and PAWSitively PAWS will come to your accommodation to pet sit or walk, should you want a dog-free day.
The charming village of Ravenscar is unique in that it joins up two fantastic walks in the form of the Cleveland Way and the former Scarborough to Whitby railway line (the ‘Cinder Track’). The Ravenscar Tearooms offers a perfect pit stop.
Popular beaches such as Skinningrove, Runswick Bay and Robin Hood’s Bay offer yearround access for your four legged friend. Some beaches do have access restrictions during the summertime: Saltburn, Whitby and Sandsend don’t allow dogs on certain areas of the beach so please look out for the signs before letting loose. If unrestricted runarounds are what you’re after, opt for a winter visit as many beaches allow dogs off the lead. See northyorkmoors.org.uk/walkingwithdogs for more suggestions on great walks for dogs, including advice about where and when to use leads to keep everyone happy! Remember to take all waste from you and your dog away with you. 50 24
After some Whitby quirk and charm? Rusty Shears welcomes dogs in the quaint courtyard and inside their vintage tea room. Offering over 160 gins and doggychinos - what could possibly go wrong!?
Sea dog at Robin Hood’s Bay
The Spa Hotel, Saltburn © Tim Gardham
Watch whales, porpoise and dolphins from Staithes
See minke whales on a Yorkshire Coast Nature whale watching trip © Steve Race
Ever imagined whale watching off the North York Moors coast? They’re regular visitors to our shores. Minke whales appear in summer, following the migrating mackerel shoals, along with harbour porpoise and occasional bottle-nosed and whitebeaked dolphins.
Yorkshire Coast Nature keep group numbers small so you can enjoy a friendly, personalised, full day experience looking out for these stunning cetaceans (July to September). Additional bonuses include ‘chum chucking’ off the boat to attract hordes of different seabirds for fantastic photography opportunities.
Enjoy spending time on the water? Here are our Top Five ways to enjoy the North York Moors Coast
Have a whale of a time watching the teeming sea-life close to our shores by joining Three Sisters Sea Trips. As well as seals, dolphins and porpoises, you may be lucky enough to see minke, fin, sei, northern and humpback whales.
Travel back in time Staithes sunset © Staithes Festival of Arts & Heritage
Take a trip out to sea - or maybe just around Whitby harbour…
Did you know there’s a host of hidden shipwrecks along the North York Moors coast? You can sometimes see the battered remains of numerous ships at Robin Hood’s Bay and Kettleness. Perhaps the most photogenic is the ‘Admiral Von Tromp’ wreckage in Saltwick Bay with the ominous Black Nab lurking behind. Interested in a wreck walk? Check out the National Trust who include a number of wreck walks in their events programme.
Whitby and Scarborough offer the most choice for boat trips in summer months and it’s simply a case of heading to the harbourside and checking out the sandwich boards and taking your pick. A few trips are worth a special mention:
Fish for supper
Whitby is famous for its cod fishing. Whitby Charter Skippers Association has 20 members offering anglers of every age and ability the chance to go out to sea and catch fish.
Whitby Coastal Cruises offer a variety of trips from Tourists enjoying a pleasure ride on the old a 20/25 minute sail into the bay (dog friendly) to a lifeboat at Whitby © RJB Photographic 3½ hour cruise down the coast to Robin Hood’s Bay potentially spotting seals and seabirds. They have trips up the unspoilt river Esk as well as sunset cruises when you can watch the sky turn pink, returning to the twinkling lights of Whitby. The very much retired historic Whitby lifeboat ‘Mary Ann Hepworth’. Having saved 201 lives, and now lovingly restored, this Old Lifeboat lives on offering 30 minute trips around Whitby’s harbour and along the coast. Her informative and entertaining crew alongside Captain Barry will leave you with great memories. Dog friendly too.
Sean Baxter will take you out on his boat, ‘All My Sons’, for a special ‘Hook and Cook’ experience. He’ll show you how to catch mackerel out at sea, how to clean and prepare it, barbecue it and then you can eat it! Three Sisters Sea Trips from Staithes also offer angling, sight-seeing and wildlife spotting trips from Staithes
Established in 1874, there’s good reason why the rowing boats at Ruswarp have lasted the test of time. The quiet, sheltered waters of the river Esk make for an idyllic afternoon’s activity. The fantastic location offers potential for steam train and salmon spotting too. When you’re tired of rowing, you can moor up at one of the riverside cafes. Whitby Lifeboat Station © Tony Bartholomew
Look out for… RNLI Lifeboat weekends
Whitby and Staithes both hold celebrations to raise money for the Royal National Lifeboat Institution (RNLI). The fun-filled weekends include fancy dress parades, live music, a duck race, air and sea rescue displays and fireworks. The RNLI is run by volunteers ready and on call to crew a lifeboat at all hours of the day, so these weekends are a great way to support all their hard work to save lives at sea. 52
Boating at Ruswarp © Ebor Images/NYMNPA
Saltburn surfers at sunset © Colin Carter
The coast isn’t just about buckets and spades, and sitting with an ice cream in your hand wearing a knotted handkerchief on your head. We take a quick look at more active ways to enjoy the outdoors.
Catch a wave
The Yorkshire coast is becoming something of a surfing mecca. It’s particularly good for beach breaks, the best type of wave to start surfing on. There are plenty of rock spots with reef and point breaks for the more experienced too. Hire boards and get expert tuition from flowsurfcoaching.com, saltburn-surf.co.uk, whitbysurfschool.co.uk and Tides at Sandsend.
Fishing and wildlife watching
Three Sisters Sea Trips is a new sea fishing and wildlife charter boat, based in Staithes. They offer trips for up to 7 passengers and you can hire fishing equipment too. threesister-boatcharter.co.uk
Wildlife safaris with Yorkshire Coast Nature Yorkshire Coast Nature organise wildlife safaris where you might spot anything from snakes, butterflies, whales, porpoises or birds of prey. For those wanting to capture the moment on film, there are also specific wildlife photography courses with practical tips and insights from award winning professionals. yorkshirecoastnature.co.uk 54 24
Seabird and whale watching from Staithes © Yorkshire Coast Nature
Get active with the National Trust
Geocaching in the North York Moors National Park © Mike Nicholas
Throughout the summer months, the National Trust runs a wide range of activities to suit all ages and interests at Ravenscar and Robin Hood’s Bay. Choose from guided walks, rockpooling, ranger experiences, bushcraft and geocaching. Events get booked up quickly so go to nationaltrust.org.uk/ yorkshire-coast/whats-on to guarantee your spot. 55
SUP Yoga © SUP Adventures
Sea kayaking at Runswick Bay © Fridge Productions Limited
Unusual ways to exercise on water
SUP Adventures run stand up paddleboarding courses for novices through to experienced paddlers on rivers, dams and the sea. If being at one with nature is your kind of thing try their SUP Yoga activity. You can even extend your experience and book onto a retreat to fully embrace the concept. sup-adventures.co.uk
Find out why geology rocks
Paddle quietly along the coastline from Runswick Bay, taking time to gaze in awe at the towering cliffs bustling with birdlife, looking out for secret spots that can only really be accessed by kayaks. Join Barefoot Kayaks for a guided paddle which usually takes place on settled evenings when Runswick Bay is at its best. barefootkayak.com
Photography tours using professional hi-spec equipment
North York Moors Wildlife Photography Tours offer wildlife watching and photography experiences for all. From the comfort of their 4x4 vehicle, using their high specification equipment, you can get really close to nature and capture fantastic images. northyorkshirewildlifetours.co.uk
This stretch of rugged Jurassic coastline offers adventures galore, whether it’s finding all manner of wildlife in rockpools or hunting out fossils and dinosaur footprints. Expert guides at Hidden Horizons can help fire your imagination to envisage what life was like 190 million years ago when dinosaurs roamed this land. hiddenhorizons.co.uk
Boggle Hole fossil hunting with Hidden Horizons © Tony Bartholomew/NYMNP
The Sitting Room, Saltburn Credit © Ceri Oakes
We asked locals along the coast to recommend their favourite places and things to do, and we’ve put them together to give you a series of perfect days. Distances between these towns and villages are short so you could combine several days to make a perfect week… or more!
A perfect day in Saltburn by the Sea Soak up the Victorian charm of the unspoilt coastal resort of Saltburn by the Sea.
Make the most of the early morning freshness with a four-mile loop walk from Saltburn’s seafront up onto Huntcliff, following the Cleveland Way National Trail. The cliff sides teem with kittiwakes, fulmars, cormorants and other seabirds. Along the way keep an eye open for the three steel sculptures designed to reflect the historic importance of the local metal-working industries. The large metal fish represents the fishing heritage; the unusual marker post denotes earth, air, sky and water; while the metal ring has 10 charms that each symbolize a piece of local folklore or culture. Now you’ve earned a brunch, recommended spots include Signals Bistro and Rapps Cafe. For a less energetic morning, take a short ride on the Saltburn Miniature Railway which trundles from the beach-side Cat Nab station for half-a-mile to Forest Halt. Relax over a mid-morning coffee at the Valley Gardens Tea Rooms before strolling through the delightful Italian gardens - a mix of formal colourful flower borders and woodland glades dissected by Skelton Beck, which leads you back towards town. Time your visit right and every second Saturday of the month you’ll be lucky enough to catch the farmers’ market. Now rated one of the best in the country, you can munch your way through local food and drink, stocking up on some great treats such as the famous ‘Clucking Pig’ scotch eggs.
Head for the Lower Promenade where you can sit on the balcony at the Seaview Restaurant and enjoy some of the best fish and chips served in the region while looking out at the stunning coastal scenery.
Enjoy a relaxing wander with a promenade along Britain’s most northerly surviving pier. If you’re visiting from May onwards, you’ll probably find some of the pier’s railings festooned with woollen characters created by knitting’s answer to Banksy. Each year the mysterious group of Saltburn yarnbombers take a different theme for their woolly creations. Stroll along the miles of golden sand to dip your toes in the sea before making the climb up to Saltburn town. Saltburn prides itself on its independent shops so head for the ‘Jewel Streets’ and tucked away corners of the town to discover gifts and other retail finds. 58 24
Why not indulge in a bit of cake heaven at The Sitting Room, a lovely café that transforms itself into a cocktail bar in the evening? Alternatively make a beeline for Chocolinis where you can relax while tucking into homemade ice cream or a chocolate treat. If the lure of the seafront is too strong, then Camfields café should fit the bill. They offer blankets if the weather is a little chilly!
Yarnbombing on Saltburn’s Victorian pier © North York Moors National Park
For a different view of Saltburn, it’s also one of the top places to surf in the UK with gentle, safe conditions that are suitable for novices as well as gnarlier waves for more advanced surfers.
With afternoon giving way to evening, it’s an ideal time to sit and watch the sunset so try a sundowner in a spot overlooking the sea such as the Spa Hotel, Vista Mar or The Ship Inn, before heading back into town for an evening meal. The Kings Grill has an excellent reputation for steak and seafood. Enjoy a nightcap at trendy The Guns Bar next door, which offers an array of craft ales and gins.
Watching the sunset from Saltburn Pier © Ceri Oakes
Evening light, Staithes © Ebor Images
With lunch beckoning and the lure of the small sandy beach perhaps proving strong, you might want to buy provisions for a picnic. Pop into Betsy & Bo - a retro sweet shop, with a boutique deli next door. Enjoy a taste of locally caught fish at one of the local pubs such as the Cod & Lobster . They have outside seating as close to the harbour wall as you can get.
Walk off your lunch by venturing a little way out of Staithes, following the long distance Cleveland Way National Trail at least as far as Boulby Cliff which, at 203 metres high, is the highest cliff on the east coast of England. Retrace your steps for more fine views of Staithes and head back to the RNLI Lifeboat Station and wander beyond it on to the pier to look up at Cowbar Nab. The cliff side of the Nab is an important seabird colony. If you visit in spring you’re likely to be treated to the sights and sounds of a multitude of nesting birds including herring gulls, fulmars, kittiwakes and razorbills. Next make a beeline for an afternoon tea stop. Why not try Dotty’s Tearoom where you can also eye up potential purchases of vintage gifts and homeware in the adjoining shop.
A perfect day in Staithes Explore cobbled streets hugging steep slopes leading down to the harbour.
For a great introduction to Staithes, start with the Captain Cook & Staithes Heritage Centre. The centre houses an amazing collection of memorabilia over two floors and recreates a 1745 street scene including the grocer’s shop in Staithes where the great explorer Captain Cook first started working while beginning to hone his maritime skills. Continue with your own exploration, wandering the streets to find the eight three-dimensional murals which are part of the Staithes Illusion Trail. The narrow streets and snickets have evocative sounding names like Gun Gutter and Barbers Yard. All the murals were painted by world-renowned trompe l’oeil artist and Staithes resident, Paul Czainski.
From here, it might be time to take a look in one of the galleries. If you’re visiting in September then join in with the popular and quirky Staithes Festival of Arts & Heritage when houses are transformed into pop-up galleries and musicians play in the streets. You can buy a locally-made souvenir from the Staithes Arts and Crafts Centre or sit and enjoy the tranquil garden at St. Peter’s Centre where you can admire the mermaid and fish carvings created by local chainsaw sculptor Steve Iredale. A day isn’t really long enough… it’s worth staying a little longer in Staithes. Perhaps pick up a new skill? You could join local fisherman Sean Baxter on his fishing boat All My Sons (book in advance) and venture out into the sea for a spot of mackerel fishing. Try your hand at painting by booking onto one of the weekends held at Staithes Art School, or join one of the monoprint from plants courses held by Stef Mitchell.
Continuing the maritime theme walk over the bridge and see if you can spot one of the traditional local fishing boats, a coble, moored in Staithes Beck. Imagine what life here was like when Staithes was regarded as one of the largest fishing ports on the north east coast of England, with around 300 men fishing from coble boats launched from and landed on the beach. Near the harbour you’ll see the RNLI Lifeboat Station which is staffed by volunteers from the village – they’d really appreciate a donation. View the short film telling the moving story of the RNLI in Staithes and Runswick. If you’re there on Sunday morning in winter or Monday evening in summer, then you might also catch sight of a lifeboat practice session. As you walk back from the lifeboat station you might think the village seems familiar – especially if you have young children who are fans of CBeebies’ ‘Old Jack’s Boat’ starring Bernard Cribbins. It’s filmed here in Staithes. See if you can spot the many locations used in the series. 60 24
Staithes Illusion Trail created by Paul Czainski
Cod & Lobster, Staithes © Ceri Oakes
View across Robin Hood’s Bay towards Ravenscar © Ebor Images
Exploring the narrow alleyways of Robin Hood’s Bay © Ceri Oakes
A perfect day in Robin Hood’s Bay and Boggle Hole Quaint cottages, narrow alleyways bursting with maritime and local folklore.
On your way into Robin Hood’s Bay pay a visit to Old St. Stephen’s, a church dating back to 1822 with commanding views across the coastline. The church’s interior remains virtually unaltered since it was built. Look out for the memorials to shipwrecks and the maidens’ garlands.
At the top of the hill is the Victoria Hotel where you can lap up the last of the afternoon rays with a drink in hand, looking out over the bay! Alternatively stay close to the sea and enjoy a drink at The Bay Hotel on the seafront or retreat to the aptly-named Smugglers Bistro for an evening meal before a final nightcap at Ye Dolphin pub. The Wayfarer Bistro is also renowned for its good food. The Bay Hotel © Tony Bartholomew
Then stroll outside and wander through the tiny passages imagining those times when houses were said to be connected by cupboards or tunnels in the cellars. Pick up the Smuggler’s Trail and you could spend a couple of hours searching for clues and discovering facts about Robin Hood’s Bay’s secretive past. Wander over to the sea wall and marvel at ‘The Story of Bay – Footprints through Time’ 50 mosaic panels using 300,000 tiles, depicting the history of Bay through an artist’s eyes, created with help from the community and the local school.
Head down to the Old Coastguard Station, which is now home to the National Trust’s Visitor Centre and find out more about the rich marine life in the bay. Around 170 million years ago Robin Hood’s Bay would have been a deep sea bed and today you can still find evidence of the creatures that would have existed back then, including dinosaurs. Pick up a Tracker Pack from the Coastguard Station and go on a fossil hunt on the beach once the tide goes out. The pack also contains information for carrying out a rockpool recce and a route map for a two kilometre walk along the bay and cliff path to the delightfully secluded cove of Boggle Hole. Boggle Hole, so-called as it was said to be a hiding place for hobgoblins, is also an amazing place for rockpooling and fossil hunting. Hidden Horizons can take you on a guided hunt that may well turn up some dinosaur footprints as well. 62 24
Enjoying the coastal views from Ravenscar © Ebor Images
Robin Hood’s Bay from Ravenscar © Mike Kipling
While the morning was all about great views from high spots, this afternoon delves into a fantastic woodland valley that uncovers some real coastal gems. Hayburn Wyke © Tony Bartholomew Start off from Hayburn Wyke and follow the trail through the wooded nature reserve to come to a secluded rocky cove where a waterfall tumbles to the beach. Join a National Trust guided ranger walk to find out more about the wildlife and landscape. Wandering back, pop into the 18th century Hayburn Wyke Inn where you can sit in the tranquil gardens with a drink in hand.
Coastal view over Robin Hood’s Bay beach towards Ravenscar © Ebor Images
A perfect day in Fylingdales Moor, Ravenscar and Hayburn Wyke “Variety is the spice of life”, they say and with that in mind this day out packs in a real mixture of things to see and do.
Start with a walk across Fylingdales Moor, a beautiful conservation area managed by the Hawk and Owl Trust. It’s a haven for wildlife as well as brimming with historical remains. You can download a four-mile circular route from the North York Moors National Park’s website for a superb walk across Fylingdales’ Howdale Moor and Brow Moor taking in Stoupe Brow. On a clear day you’ll be treated to great views across sweeping moorland and the dramatic coastline at Ravenscar. As you follow the route, look out for several prehistoric burial mounds and passing birds of prey.
Streets were constructed here but the development came to an abrupt halt when the developer went bankrupt. You can still see parts of the unfinished village and the remains of the old alum works.
Pick up the former Scarborough to Whitby railway (the ‘Cinder Track’) for an easy 2-mile stroll to Cloughton’s old Victorian station house that is now a tearoom set in a half-acre of gardens. Then retrace your steps until you go under the road bridge. Climb up onto the lane by the steps and turn left down the lane towards the sea returning to Hayburn Wyke via the Cleveland Way National Trail.
Treat yourself to an apple and lemon tart at the traditional Ravenscar Tearooms - muddy boots and dogs are welcome.
Once back at Hayburn Wyke, it’s well-worth driving south a short distance towards Cloughton to seek out Flossie’s Farm Shop and its dog friendly tea garden for a final treat.
Ravenscar is a great spot for a picnic too, so sit and enjoy the views before driving (or walking or cycling!) further down the coast to Hayburn Wyke and Cloughton.
Then drive down to Ravenscar, a hamlet which is built on spectacular cliffs and has a fascinating history. Often described as ‘the town that never was’, Ravenscar was earmarked for development in Victorian times to become a tourist resort that would rival Scarborough and Whitby. 64 24
Sunset over Whitby piers and the abbey © RJB Photographic
Sunset over Whitby piers and the abbey©©Tony RJBBartholomew Photographic Whitby Harbour
A perfect day in Whitby
The colourful beach huts on the seafront at Whitby © RJB Photographic.
You can easily spend at least a day exploring the nooks and crannies of the bustling harbour town of Whitby.
Have a scamper through Whitby’s cobbled lanes where there are plenty of interesting independent shops, art galleries and eating places to discover, and hidden corners with quirky names like ‘Arguments Yard’. You’ll see plenty of jewellery shops devoted to the local gemstone Whitby Jet but you could also aim for The Whitby Jet Heritage Centre where you can learn more about its fascinating history. From here head round the corner to Tate Hill where the Russian ship ‘Demeter’ ran aground, an event that inspired author Bram Stoker so much he included the shipwreck in his novel ‘Dracula’. You can continue re-living the vampire story by walking up the 199 Steps to St Mary’s Church and imagine how the Demeter’s only survivor, a mysterious black dog - or ‘Barghest’ - leapt ashore and ran up the steps. Once at the top, don’t miss a visit to the iconic landmark Whitby Abbey.
With the hunger pangs kicking in, head to the Whitby Deli and face the tricky challenge of choosing from the delicious array of items for a picnic, or feast on a meal from one of the excellent fish and chip shops. 66 24
Sunset at Whitby Abbey © RJB Photographic.
Walk off your lunch with a wander around the working harbour. You might like to stop and watch people fishing off the jetty or perhaps take a trip on a boat out to sea. Landlubbers might prefer to find out more about the town’s heritage and fishing traditions by heading to the Whitby Museum or the Captain Cook Memorial Museum. Look out for the full-size replica HM Bark Endeavour in the harbour too. 67 25
Sandsend beach © Ceri Oakes
Sandsend, perfect for a paddle © Dan Prince/WTY/NYMNP
Estbek House © Ceri Oakes
At the top of the bank on the road up towards Staithes is the village of Lythe where you can arrange to see the remarkable collection of Anglo-Scandinavian carved stones at St Oswald’s Church. There are fine views from the church from Sandsend across to Whitby. If you’re visiting on a Wednesday, Saturday or Sunday (closed in May), head for the entrance to Mulgrave Estate where you can pick up a permissive path that leads into the woods and up to the ruins of Mulgrave Castle. The Bridge Cottage Bistro at the entrance to Mulgrave Estate has a lovely garden to eat in, as well as a Scandinavian-style indoor area. For something even smarter, Estbek House offers fine dining in a beautiful setting. Both restaurants have a passion for using locally-sourced ingredients and serve excellent fish dishes.
A perfect day in Sandsend A nostalgic, relaxing day enjoying the feel of sand beneath your feet.
This new geocache arts trail features beautifully designed linocuts made by local artists Rob Moore, Bridget Wilkinson, Lyn Bailey, Wendy Tate, Sally Parkin and Michael Atkin.
After the bustle of Whitby, Sandsend is a complete contrast. With around three miles of sandy beach, it’s a great spot to just sit and look out to sea, enjoying the swish of the waves and looking for the perfect shaped pebble to take home. Take a walk to the cliffs and paddle in rockpools or stretch your legs, perhaps walking along the coast to Whitby – you can see the distinctive outline of the Abbey from Sandsend beach.
Follow the clues to find stamps representing different aspects of our coastline: a gull, puffin, fossil, fish, North Yorkshire Moors Railway and Whitby Abbey. You can pick up a souvenir booklet and start collecting these stamps from Lythe Community Shop and Café, Wits End Café, Sandsend Stores, Tides, Serendipity, Wild Hart, and Sandside Café. For more information and instructions go to: northyorkmoors.org.uk/geocacheartstrail
Sandsend has a surprising number of great places to eat for such a small village. Try tasty seafood dishes at the Hart Inn or Sandside Café, or maybe afternoon tea at Wits End Café with its walled garden.
Head north for a short stroll on the Cleveland Way National Trail, which rises steeply from the foot of Lythe Bank initially following parts of the old Whitby-Saltburn Railway. 68 24
Geocache Arts Trail booklet © Ceri Oakes
Follow the Cleveland Way from Port Mulgrave to Runswick Bay © Ceri Oakes
Runswick Bay © Ebor Images
A perfect day in Port Mulgrave and Runswick Bay Cake and the coast – what a perfect combination!
Some of the houses seem very precarious, perched on narrow terraces overlooking the sea. In the spring storms of 1682, virtually the whole village of Runswick sank towards the sea, but all the residents escaped as they were attending a funeral out of the village at the time.
There are several places to eat or enjoy a drink whilst admiring the view: the Runswick Bay café down by the beach, the Runswick Bay Hotel, Royal Hotel and Cliffemount Hotel.
At the top of the cliff you’ll find the Ship Inn, no longer a pub but a lovely tearoom with great cake! Nearby in Hinderwell is the Runcible Spoon, another quirky café much loved by locals.
Start your day in the tiny and quiet Port Mulgrave, once used during the ironstone mining industry.
On calm evenings Barefoot Kayak offer guided paddles around Runswick Bay. Perfect for beginners, it’s a lovely way to see a different view off the coast.
From here, head a short way down the coast until you come to Runswick Bay where the road dips suddenly to reveal a hidden huddle of picture postcard cottages and a beautiful sweeping bay. Alternatively, an easy 1.5-mile walk from Port Mulgrave along the clifftops on the Cleveland Way National Trail will bring you out at the top of the village, with views over the wide sweep of Runswick Bay across to Kettleness.
Begin your exploration of Runswick Bay by weaving your way along the tiny paths and see the white-painted thatched cottage, which is perched right by the sea. This former coastguard’s house is probably the village’s most photographed house! Walk along the beach and catch sight of Hob Holes, small caves where hobgoblins were reputed to live. This included one who was supposed to cure whooping cough. In times gone by, mothers would bring their children to cure them of whooping cough by reciting a rhyme: “Hob Hole Hob, My bairn’s gotten t’kink cough, Tak it off, Tak it off.”
Runswick Bay © NYMNPA
Paddleboarding at Runswick Bay © Ebor Images