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MARCH - APRIL 2011 ISSUE 5

FEARNE COTTO N

Talks Painting, Presenting & FASHION

SPRING BEAUTY UPDATE

NOIR meets

Zawe Ashton

HIGHLIGHTS of LFW:

A/W 11

THE L O N D O N I S S U E


Editor’s LET TER

DANIELLE SCUTT SHOW: a welcome return for one of London’s best rock ‘n’ roll chic designers after 3 seasons away – she returned with a bang. PAM HOGG SHOW: After queuing outside in the freezing cold for a ridiculous amount of time, it is testament to Hogg’s reputation that everyone stayed and were glad they did as inside we were treated to a truly avant-garde collection. CHRISTOPHER KANE: much respect to Kane who has went for a more grown-up collection this time but keeping his signature cuts, style and edge. STAND OUT PIECE: Love, love, LOVE this dress from ERDEM. Always one to have show stopping – but wearable – outfits in his collection, this dress was a stand-out piece for A/W11 with its shaping and draping across the silhouette dazzling with the impressionistic print which has a massive thumbs up from moi!

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Enjoy, Leanne Milligan Editor in Chief

Follow me on Twitter @leefashionista for NOIR updates.

PAM HOGG

ZIAD GHANEM SHOW: well worth the wait; a true teaching in show production: designers take note.

This issue of NOIR hits London town to show you exactly why London is the epi-centre of fashion. Not only have world-class designers such as Galliano, Kane, Saunders, & Williamson, studied and learned their craft here, it is the focus point for many a street style blog. Walk along the streets of the East End or North London and you would be made to be inspired. So we take to the streets (and tubes) of London to bring you our street style picks, whilst Style Edits shows how you can achieve the East, West or North London looks yourself. Our cover girl is the amazingly talented – and chic – Fearne Cotton who I chatted to about fashion, her love for art and presenting. We bring you a ‘London inspired’ fashion shoot and our Beauty Section features the products we have tried & tested for you this issue as well as a ‘London inspired’ beauty spread and tips from a London makeup artist. If that is not enough to make you truly London inspired, then we took to the madness that is LFW to once again go to the shows and bring you the shows and presentations that were the highlights for us and let you know what the fashion and beauty trends are for next season – yes I know, it’s hard to keep up with all the seasons!

DANIELLE SCUTT

Fashion Week

CHRISTOPHER KANE

from LONDON

ZIAD GHANEM

TOP PICKS

Me (right), with Emma, Lauren & Laura.

NOIR editor


NOIR con ten t s

ISSUE 5 - MARCH /APRIL 2011

COVER STORIES

MUSIC

STYLE

36 COVER INTERVIEW: FEARNE COTTON Leanne Milligan chats to Fearne about her new collection for very.co.uk.

32 DIAGRAM OF THE

22 BRITISH FASHION ICON

NOIR VIEW

7 THE STRADE 24 LOVE & THE CITY

Gilda Orru discusses the highs and lows of being in love in the City of London.

25 WHY I LOVE LONDON 104 THE WONDERFUL

WORLD OF LFW

NOIR GUIDES

26 NOIR’S GUIDE TO LONDON

HEART INTERVIEW

FILM

8 BAFTA’S SPECIAL Laura Smith discusses the success of The King’s Speech and Black Swan and why these 2 films took over the awards season. FASHION

FEATURES

10 ZAWE ASHTON

INTERVIEW Leanne Milligan chats to Zawe Ashton about being a work-aholic.

31 HERE’S LOOKING

AT YOU KID Claire Culley charts her attempt to wear vintage every day for a year.

28 ON THE STREET… IN LONDON 30 MY STYLE WITH…

For this issue Charlotte Thwaites chats to Emily Seares about her style and fashion trends.

13 STYLE EDITS 41 STEAL HER STYLE For our London Issue, it was How to achieve the Alexa only fitting to bring you a Chung look. High Street special and bring you West Vs East Vs North BEAUTY London fashion. Which tribe 49 BEAUTY SECTION do you belong to?

34 I’M LOVING…VINTAGE 20 LONDON & ITS INFLUENCE 48 MUST READ BOOKS: ON FASHION

LONDON SPECIAL

This issue we turn to the fashion blogger: and no-one is as stylish as our own Susie Lau.

42 NOIR FASHION SHOOT 64 HIGHLIGHTS OF

LFW: A/W11 We bring you our reviews of the highlights of the A/W11 shows.

92 A/W11 FASHION

TRENDS What you’ll be wearing next season.

98 FASHION 101: ADVICE & TIPS FROM LFW 62 THE LIFE OF… A DESIGNERS CATWALK London Fashion Week PHOTOGRAPHER designers give you their Lisa Wilks goes behind the scenes with Kirsten Sinclair advice on everything from; and finds out what it takes to making an entrance to how be a catwalk photographer. to wear prints.

50 NOIR HIT LIST: Tried & Tested 53 Q&A WITH

MAKE-UP ARTIST GEORGINA GRAHAM

56 NOIR BEAUTY SHOOT

Your London Look for Spring and Summer.

94 A/W11 BEAUTY REPORT 95 A/W11 HAIR REPORT 96 ARTISTS AT WORK

Heather B goes backstage with the Make-up Artists at work.

REGULARS

2 EDITOR’S LETTER 4 CONTRIBUTORS 105 GIRL ABOUT TOWN 3


NOIR contributors SARAH MALLON London style is

really original and different, I just love walking around Covent Garden and seeing everyone’s outfits and all the interesting boutiques and vintage shops. There are also so many shops such as Selfridges that we don’t have in Scotland - I could spend a whole day there easily.

CHARLOTTE THWAITES What I love most about London is the wide range of large shops that I don’t have in my hometown.

What I hate most about London is when it’s so

busy, you feel like you’re stuck in a sardine can.

My favourite thing to do in What I hate most about London London would have to be is firstly, that I always seem to be shopping, but I’d also fit in the odd there on a weekend so Oxford bit of sight seeing. Street is crazy! Secondly, trying to spend Scottish money. In busy shops everyone hates you because of it!

My favourite thing to do in London is to go and see a show

in the West End. My favourite is Wicked but I would also love to see Billy Elliot.

LAUREN HAWES I love London because it

is so fast paced, exciting and trendy.

What I hate most about London

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because of everything from the shopping, the Royals, the sights even right down to the stinking sweaty tubes.

What I hate most about London

is the expense! My dream is to live in London but unless I become a millionaire that entails, microwave meals and drinking water for the rest of my life!

My favourite thing to do in London is to SHOP! If I had

enough money I’d spend the rest of my days roaming around the city shopping. It’s the best therapy ever especially in a city like London.

EMMA CUDAHY I love London.

I love London because its home to It is just amazing!

our lovely Queen. I’d like to point out here that I am in no way a royalist. I just love our Queenie.

What I hate most about London

is when the tube gets so busy that you always find yourself nestled into a stranger’s smelly arm pit. That’s what always happens to me anyway.

Obviously Oxford Street is the number one reason and Harrods! Nice to have a look ha! But as a city in general it is just so busy and there are always 101 things to keep you occupied!

What I hate most about London My favourite thing to do in is the queues! Especially Topshop London is people watching. Set queues...not fun!

me up outside any coffee shop anywhere in London with a brew in one hand and a cake in My favourite thing to do in another and I’ll be deliriously happy London… one word: Mahiki. for hours. is the underground, and pricey cocktails.

ALIX CAREY I love London

My favourite thing to do in London is obviously shopping, a

good show, and a cheeky wee night out! Perfect day in London!


NOIR co nt r i b u t o r s LISA WILKS I love London

because of all shopping! The gorgeous little boutique/ vintage shops you have to dig deep to find, the major high street brands offering absolutely everything you could imagine, and then the amazing designer stores with the most gorgeous clothes and accessories you dream about.

What I hate most about London

is travelling in rush hour. I commute to London, Monday to Friday, and it’s just horrible. Everyone is out for themselves. You’re most likely to never get a seat on the tube and have to stand with no space to even breathe!

the old people calling me “dear”. I love the river, the bridges, the parks. I love the weather, the Autumn and the panic in the snow. I love London.

hard work pays off. He started in 1996 with beaded bags and scarves, now to the present day with a full on fashion line and he is a main attraction at LFW.

My favourite thing to do in London is to have wanders, alone LAURA or with my loved one. The stroll is SMITH the best way to find new places and I love London get to know the city better. Makes

even though I’ve me feel like a Londoner who only been once, appreciates London and has at it was for LFW least a clue of what’s going on and a great in the city. introduction! My favourite London designer is There’s so Vivienne Westwood. Her designs much to see and do, but this time represent what London is about. around Portobello market and She is a great character, who Hummingbird Bakery will be doesn’t hide her age behind plastic definite highlights! surgery, but shows it off with What I hate most about London overstated looks. is the tube!

LOUISE MILLIGAN My favourite thing to do in To me London London is to shop! OH, and the means… the

nightlife is amazing. All the central city of gorgeous bars and massive clubs to fashion, where party the night away in. people aren’t afraid to try new looks or trends no matter how outrageous they are. London is where you have a freedom to yourself and I love London as I love the express your opinions. exaggeration, the loudness, the tube. I love the dirt of time The one place I would love to visit on the walls of architectural in London: There is absolutely too masterpieces. I love the attitude, many! Camden market, the big eye, the awareness, the intellectual the giant Hamley’s and all the little vibe. I love London papers. I love quirky vintage stores you find! the markets, the international food and China town. I love the My favourite London designer independent cinemas and the is Matthew Williamson, he is a museums. I love the roads, and perfect example that shows a lot of

My favourite thing to do in London is shop, drink and party! Yes, I love to do these anywhere but for variety and style, you don’t get much better than London do you?

I

love London because of Spitalfield’s on Sundays, vintage at Alfie’s Antiques and the oozing sexiness of Nick Knight’s photo-shoots.

What I hate about London is the hype over the Royals.

My favourite thing to do in London is wander through Hyde Park, visit markets and take black & white photographs.

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NOIR c o ntr ib u tors

melting pot of different cultures which directly influences Londoners’ eclectic style and willingness to experiment with clothes.

My favourite thing to do in London is

HEATHER B I love London because... It’s the creative hub of Britain! The people, the style, the diversity, the art, music, architecture and history.

What I hate most about London:

The expense! Originally a Yorkshire girl, I will to wander around never, understand how certain museums and establishments can justify charging markets looking for inspiration, 2-3 times the price for drinks! trinkets for my flat and vintage pieces for my wardrobe.

My favourite thing to do in London London style is varied, exciting, is potter & people watch. whatever you want it to be.

To me London means diversity, www.lauragrant-evans.com creativity, fashion & acceptance. DANIELLA MOROSINI I love London because the boys

and girls are impeccably dressed, constantly unique, surprisingly friendly and the coffee ain’t half bad.

What I hate most about London:

italian tourists. I can say specifically Italian, because I am Italian, and we’re annoying.

My favourite thing to do in London:

makeupbyheatherb.com JULIET JACKMAN I love London because

Its a melting pot of cultures and so diverse. London is draped in history. You are never short of things to do, be it theatres, galleries, gigs, markets and music.

go to liberty’s on great malborough street for window shopping, tea, and sweets from the ground floor. My favourite thing to do in London is To me London means: opportunity. dance and check out Portobello & Spitalfields markets

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The one place in London I would love to visit: Selfridge’s. London style is Is individual My favourite London designer is and eclectic. www.julietjackman.com Christopher Kane!

NOIR c r edi t s Editor-in-chief Leanne Milligan

Art & Design Director Assistant Editor Heather B

Writers & Contributors Louise Milligan Laura Grant-Evans Heather B Gilda Orru Laura Smith Lauren Hawes Emma Cudahy Lisa Wilks Claire Culley Charlotte Thwaites Daniela Morosini Alix Carey Laura Cavanagh Sarah Mallon Juliet Jackman

NOIR magazine can be bought in print form at www.magcloud.com Join NOIR magazine on Facebook To contact NOIR magazine use our contact form on our website at www.wix.com/noirmagazine/noir1

Due to the way this magazine is published, no guarantees can be made regarding the colour and quality of printed material. All content was correct at time of going to press.

LAURA GRANT-EVANS I love London because it is a


NOIR v i ew Words by GILDA ORRU Photograph by JESSICA IRISH

T

hat Saturday morning I left Kendall’s flat early enough to give myself the time to have a huge breakfast and a slow stroll in Portobello Road to calm my hangover before work. At 8 AM everything was already set for the market, it smelt of bacon all along the road and people were joyful and full of energy, perhaps thanks to the very sunny morning. The café I went into was a pretty place with orange walls and a big blackboard with messages from members of staff saying good bye to the customers. Evidently, the cafe was just about to close down, (not to be replaced by a brunch of another big chain, I hoped). The guy at the counter was clearly Italian, I could tell because of the accent, and because of the perfect, bubbleless cappuccino. The best thing about Portobello Road is that any shop you enter has got its own personality... the orangeness of the walls enchanted my confused mind. The 50’s looking seats all had a space underneath them to store books, handily available for the customers’ use. It was busy, for a Saturday morning, but Portobello Road always is, as local residents come out early to be able to shop in the market avoiding the Saturday tourist crowd. A shame, I thought, it would have been nice to see that road empty and feel it was mine for at least an hour. I got to thinking how in Sardinia getting back from a club was always the only way to see the “city”, Cagliari, just as it is, with no people around and no cars and transport. Driving around Cagliari in the early morning, when the sun is not totally out yet, gives you the feeling of being in a ghost town. The absence of people makes you see the town centre as a whole, intact object, as if it was sculpted from the same rock. And on the other side there is the port, and the reflection of the first shy ray of sun on the sea. Sometimes we used to go to a club called Paradise, in a little island on the South-East side of the coast,

Strade

Sant’ Antioco. The highlight of the after party was to always to have breakfast in front of the sea, watching the sunrise while stuffing our drunk faces with a bombolone alla crema or any other delicious local pastry. There I was instead, with my BLT sandwich, failing to make the pretty Portobello mine. The city is so big and active that it would be very difficult to catch it in a moment of silence and peace. Also, it is rare to be able to see it from the inside of a car, like it would be natural to in Sardinia, where transport is

“if you are dirty, insignificant and unloved then rats are the ultimate role model.” not efficient enough to give people the choice not to drive. In fact, unless you take a taxi, the average Londoner who moves across the city usually experiences two types of dimension. You could be moving very fast, underground. This is very typical of cities, especially the large ones. I believe it’s here that you learn that a city’s inhabitants do not have time to waste. Underground everyone is in a hurry, even those with nothing to hurry for. Walking in the tunnel you become the main character of an imaginary videogame, where anyone in your way is the enemy to be finished off. Try to walk opposite to the crowd’s direction underground and you’ll see how scary the zombies with no eyes can be. When I see a multitude of people running fast towards the escalators to go underground, especially in very busy stations, such as Victoria and King’s Cross, I understand why the graffiti

artist Banksy chooses a rat for many of his works. He says in his book “if you are dirty, insignificant and unloved then rats are the ultimate role model.” I believe that we are just like rats, in our race to get through the first train into the dirty tunnel. But the very peculiar side of travelling underground is that you are moving across the city without seeing it with your eyes. Many have the habit of looking in front of them, to the colourful straight line representing the route of the tube they are on, and follow their path, maybe counting down stop by stop. I wonder if they imagine something at each stop, or if they stare at that line just to pretend they are not watching me... just in order not to look at me in the eyes. The other, rather opposite dimension of the London traveller is the double decker bus. Here is where your iPod actually becomes a real soundtrack to the city. You can choose anything that suits your day or your imagination (I normally listen to this Subsonica’s tune: http://www.youtube.com/watch ?v=lc16RoozYys&feature=fvw) and you can let your curious eyes explore around you. On the upper deck of a bus you see much more of anything you can in a car. You face the buildings, you see inside the houses. You can see people stealing and running away, hugging each other after mass outside the churches, singing in a choir on the second floor, dancing cheek to cheek on the pavement. You almost feel able to touch them with your fingers and for a second you think that, whilst on a significantly bigger scale, being God must be a little bit like that

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Worthing Theatre

The Royal Standard The King’s Speech With 14 Baftas nominations and 12 for the Oscars, Tom Hooper’s triumphant period drama The King’s Speech’ is garnering critical acclaim both at home and abroad. Driven by a magnificent performance from Colin Firth as King

The Battle for BAFTA Glory: ast month the red carpet was unfurled at Covent Garden for the biggest event of the British film calendar; the Baftas, 2011. While starlets and the industry elite dazzled on the red carpet, the films which made the ceremony’s final cut were equally impressive. Laura Smith reflects on Tom Hooper’s ‘The King’s Speech’ and Darren Aronofsky’s ‘Black Swan’, which both dominated the awards and featured exceptional performances from their respective leads. By LAURA SMITH

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After the death of his father (Michael Gambon) and the abdication of his arrogant elder brother Edward (Guy Pearce) in favour of the arms of American divorcee Wallace Simpson, it falls to the Duke of York, Albert (or Bertie) to take the throne. Yet these are perilous times in 1930’s depression-era Britain, when a nation is gripped by the threat of war with Germany and the introduction of mass media throws Bertie his greatest challenge: a nine minute radio speech addressing his subjects across the empire. The prologue depicts the extent of Bertie’s affliction during an agonisingly embarrassing speech at Wembley Stadium during the 1924 Empire exhibition. We then fast-forward to 1934 when Bertie’s charming and robustly supportive wife Elizabeth (Helena Bohnam Carter) seeks the help of an innovative and straight-talking speech therapist, Lionel Logue (Geoffrey Rush). While the film’s social and political background is acutely observed and carefully interwoven, The King’s Speech transcends its historic setting to focus on Bertie’s personal journey and his relationship with Logue, who is optimistic and charismatic where Bertie is solemn and repressed.

An unlikely bond is forged between king and commoner as their sessions slowly progress from sparring matches with sharp and witty exchanges, to genuine friendship. In these impeccably written scenes David Seidler finds humour and emotion, while Firth and Rush are both exceptional and work off each other beautifully, as Logue pushes Bertie to soften his reserve and come to terms with his illness in order to overcome it. Hooper’s backdrops, pace and tone further enhance Seidler’s uplifting and compelling tale of British stoicism and quiet heroism, which is ultimately driven by fantastic character performances from an impeccable cast, which also includes Derek Jakobi as the Archbishop of Canterbury and Timothy Spall as Winston Churchill. Firth delivers a performance of a lifetime and expertly conveys the depth of Bertie’s sadness, toil and torment, often without the need for any words at all. While the era and characteristics of Englishness it puts forth may be lost to the history books, The King’s Speech is a rich yet crowd-pleasing showcase of filmmaking at its very best.

Firth delivers a performance of a lifetime... often with-out the need for any words at all.

Worthing Theatre

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George IV, it tells the story of the afflicted monarch’s personal struggle to overcome his stammer and rally his nation during the onset of war.


NOIR f i l m

Centre Stage

Black Swan

In a career defining performance, Natalie Portman excels as the troubled Nina Sawyers, whose life is consumed by dance. After years toiling in the chorus, Nina is finally given her chance in spotlight when the company’s chauvinistic director Thomas Leroy (Vincent Cassel) chooses her as the lead in a new version of Swan Lake, replacing his bitter has-been star, Beth (Winona Ryder). Graceful, delicate and innocent; Nina perfectly embodies the role of the white swan, yet the ballet’s principal must also capture the essence of the evil Black Swan. This demands a wild, alluring and sensual sexuality which Nina lacks, yet the company’s newest member Lily (Mila Kunis) effortlessly embodies. For Nina to dance both sides of the swan queen, she must let go of her inhibitions and embrace her sexuality (to achieve this, Thomas demands relentless training and masturbation). As Nina attempts to connect to her dark side with reckless abandon, her initial rivalry with Lily morphs into a twisted friendship. In her unrelenting pursuit of perfection, Nina becomes so absorbed with her character and performance that artistic breakthrough fuses with mental breakdown, and Aronofsky’s distorted use of mirrors become powerfully

symbolic of her fracturing mind and personality. As her paranoia intensifies, the realms of fantasy and reality dissolve and we become complicit in Nina’s terrifying hallucinations. Her reflection continues to stare back after she has turned away, paintings writher and shriek before her eyes, she imagines horrific self-harm, embarks on a sexual tryst with Lily and begins sprouting feathers. Although demanding to watch at times, Portman’s award-winning transformation into the swan queen is nothing short of stunning. She endured ten months of gruelling and immersive training to help her deliver a virtuosic performance worthy of Bafta and Oscar glory. The film’s intricate ballet sequences are delivered and captured beautifully, as Aronofsky’s floating camera tracks his subject’s every movement to thrilling effect. With costume design playing an integral role, it fell to Amy Westcott to create the company’s elegant attire, with Rodarte’s Kate and Laura Mulleavy collaborating on the hauntingly beautiful outfits featured in the final performance, when Nina surrenders completely to the black swan and performs the role to tragic perfection. Provocative, powerful and visually arresting, Aronofsky’s Black Swan is a creature of intense beauty; as elegant and mesmerising as it is seething and ferocious

Portmans award-winning transformation into the swan queen is nothing short of stunning Niko Tevernise

Set in the brutal yet beautiful world of ballet, Daren Aronofsky’s psycho-thriller leads us on an intoxicating and at times terrifying journey through the psyche of a principal working at a New York ballet company, as she grapples with her dual role as the swan queen.

Niko Tevernise

Stammering King vs. Tormented Ballerina

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TEN Things you didn’t know about

ZAW E A S HTO N R

Interview by LEANNE MILLIGAN. Photographs by SIMON CLEMENGER

ising Star, Young Hollywood Face of the future… just some of the words currently being used to describe upand-coming London actress Zawe Ashton. Stating herself as a bit of a workaholic -Zawe is an actress, playwright & also has a band – Zawe manages to find time to chat to NOIR about her career so far.

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My very first part in a film was a film called, Shooters I played a prostitute in a crack den. I was fourteen! They made me look absolutely awful and I loved it. I didn’t have any lines, just had to look wasted, get off

alright. I was exposed to so many different types of film from such a young age, films from all over the world, commercial and Indie. It made me respect cinema so much. From what’s on the screen to how the Maltesers are stacked, it’s all about

and music are a natural form of expression for me. My best friend and band mate Claire is an exceptional singer and we figured it would be cool to let our powers combine. It’s still fledgling stages, if not still completely hypothetical so our sound can

I have a penchant for the GRIMY when it comes to ROLES with a drug dealer and then scream a lot. It sounds grim but it totally whet my appetite for making films. I started acting really young and had only done telly up until that point and making a film just felt completely different. Years later, I’ve been lucky enough to film my next two features, with lines this time, pretty much simultaneously -Blitz and St Trinians 2: The legend of Frittons Gold. It was mad. It was challenging in so many ways- they were two vastly different films, but so utterly enjoyable. I would be in a school uniform one day wielding a sling shot and the next walking the streets of Brixton in a police uniform for my scenes in Blitz. But I live for those situations. It was a baptism of fire, but I was spoilt, I had an incredible time, lots of people believing in a newbie like me. It was a one off type of training.

I had the amazing luck to get a job at the Rio Cinema in Dalston a few days after my eighteenth birthday. I managed to make a trial shift last for six years. Dream job. Working there shaped the way I watch film now. I love watching films over and over and finding new things in them each time. As an usher, sometimes you are watching the same film three times daily, so sometimes I would watch and only concentrate on one character, or on the words or try and count the different types of cuts. It was a great skill to learn. I also learned you can live on popcorn and Polos for up to four days if need be and be

creating a wicked experience for an audience. I watch a film every Sunday if I can. I love the whole ritual of going to the cinema and still get excited when the lights go down. The Rio is also a massive part of East London’s history, so if you are local, support your local cinema!

Blitz is a film based in a novel by Ken Bruen It encounters a team of South London police officers as they try and catch a serial killer. I play PC Elizabeth Falls who has been through rehab when we meet her at the start of the film. The film touches on all of this police force struggling with the duality of their personal and work lives. It was a gift of a part. I got to do some amazing research, I visited rehab centres, I spoke to some incredible individuals who were so open with their stories it was just...no words. I’m more worried about all of the people that helped me seeing truth in Falls’ journey than anything else to do with the film coming out! I play the female lead role in the film and I was in and among an astounding cast. Paddy Considine, Jason Statham, Aiden Gillen, Mark Rylance, I mean, what? First day of rehearsal was just Paddy and I. I couldn’t breathe. I blatantly idolize that man. It’s indecent the way he balances being such a supremely gifted actor and thoroughly legendary person.

I have this constant itch for one means of expression or another. These impulses change from day to day, I’m like a kid.

only really be described in ridiculous metaphor. So if we sounded like a dinner party it would be a fish and chip banquet in the middle of the Sahara Desert with Grace Jones as hostess. Guests would include David Lynch, Linton Kwesi Johnson, M.I.A and a few of the Boy Better Know crew who take it in turns to seduce Shirley Bassey while Salt and Peppa play live on a sand dune. Dance moves are also imperative.

It’s an amazing feeling being in the driving seat of creating work, which you can do sat at the keyboard. These words come out and then get printed and then the next thing you know there are actors in rooms speaking those words and walking around bringing your words to life and people are making sets and asking you questions about what you mean by that pause and that stage direction. It’s mad. As an actor you have to get the job in order to create. But as a writer, you can work at any time, you can turn a thunder bolt of inspiration in to something tangible.

I’m happiest when I’m in love and is reciprocated.

that

love

I can go to the cinema a hideous amount when I’m not working. I’m also a new fan of the Tracy Anderson work out DVD. I find that working up a sweat at the start of the day sets me up a treat. So the average actor/writer day for me is get up, strong coffee, work out video, Bikram Yoga or swim, great breakfast, a few pages of spontaneous writing, have a

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coffee with a friend, audition, accumulate some random crap (my favourite at the moment being cheap vintage furniture) then go to the cinema or the theatre, then pop by and blag a free meal at home with my folks. It’s all about trying to establish routine for me when I’m not working, finding some kind of method to the madness. I’m a workaholic so can go easily mad when I have free time.

I have a penchant for the grimy when it comes to roles. Maybe because I’ve been playing prostitutes since I was fourteen! No matter how wholesome or light a character appears, I’m always drawn to finding their dark side, their secrets, the ‘serpent underneath’. So I’d love to do a really dark comedy next, something like Tod Solondz’s Happiness or Palindromes. His films are surreal and sometimes comic but heart-breakingly truthful and unavoidably dark. The characters are all misfits in some way or another but you never judge them because they are so flawed and human. I love those roles as you can totally let go of any vanity, embrace the off beat and ugly and just submerse yourself

I love London because London isn’t England. It manages to be its own microcosm, an island within an island. It’s so genuinely multi cultural and eccentric within its own borders. There’s a reason that only an hours drive outside of London’s perimeters and it feels like a different world. To shamelessly quote the last line of my favourite film The Wizard of OZ – “There’s no place like home.”

Blitz is out 6th May 2011 Dreams of a Life is out later this year.

I wrapped on a film just before Christmas called Dreams of a Life, which comes out later this year. It’s directed by BAFTA nominated director Carol Morley and is just the most incredible real life story. I play the real life woman who is at the centre of the film. It’s taken four years to get it made and I’m so excited about it, I think it’s a really important film. I’m also writing a commission for the brilliant theatre company Clean Break where I’ve been Writer in Residence for the past year. I’m also writing a sitcom in my spare time and trying to get my first film, which I wrote last year, In the shape of a Heart made. It’s in the laps of lots of production companies as we speak so we’ll see.... I really meant the workaholic thing!

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I’m always drawn to finding their DARK side, the SECRETS, the ‘SERPENT underneath’

Hair: Tak @ Phamous Make Up: Emma Libotte Stylist: Camila Turner @ Phamous Location: RIO cinema


INSIDE THIS ISSUE:

NOIR st y l e

- East London - West London - North London Compiled by LEANNE MILLIGAN

LONDON issue HIGH STREET special


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De by nim Re Jac pu ke bli t c

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NOIR st yle

Bright colours, retro-antique, vintage, pick n mix trends a la East London crew Agyness Deyn & Henry Holland.

Military Jacket by Very.co.uk

E A ST LONDON oe

sb

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Jeans by White Stuff

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cc

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Satchel by Next

Shirt by French Connection

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Look out for stripy blouses, checked shirts, vintage dresses, lace-up shoes, squared heels...anything vintage.

NOIR st y l e Necklace by French Connection

Crop Top by Republic

Tee by Primark

T-shirt by New Look

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NOIR st yle Bal

Bag by Hobbs let S

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Top by H&M

Dress by French Connection

Shorts by French Connection

Vest Top H&M

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Scarf by Next

Dress by A SOS

Sunglasses by Next

Jacket by Next

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Cropped Tee by Primark


Elegance, french chic, wardrobe staples such as; quilted pumps, J Brand jeans, tank tops, cashmere cardigans a la Primrose Hill set Sadie Frost & Davina Taylor.

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Dress by H&M

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Belt by Urban Outfitters

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Denim Shirt by George @ Asda Frayed Denim Shorts by ASOS

Herring Scarf by Red s m ha @ Deben

NORTH LONDON s by Papri

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Cut Out Back Jacket by ASOS

Ruffle Dress by New Look

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Velvet Dress by Primark


Punk, emo, goth, & indie pirate boy looks all feature in North London Style. Look to North London residents Amy Winehouse & Mighty Boosh for style inspiration.

NOIR st y l e Jumper by Apricot

Top by ASOS

Cobweb Top by Republic

Leather Shorts by French Connection

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LONDON & ITS INFLUENCE

NOIR cexu ltu p erienc re e

By GILDA ORRU

Chelsea, King’s Road and Carnaby Street

ON FASHION

It was 1955 when the first boutique was opened in Chelsea. Named Bazaar, and situated on the King’s Road, its owners were the designer Mary Quant and her husband Alexander Plunket Green. They started a trend that became very popular in Chelsea-after Quant’s Bazaar came Glass & Black, Biba, Clobber, Hung on You and Granny Takes a Trip. It was the first time that fashion was not addressed to the richest classes. The people who owned these boutiques were part of the Chelsea Set, but still they needed to work, and as a result got involved with small crafts and businesses connected to the arts. Most boutiques offered their own clothes, made in-house, often on the top-floor of the shops. These were the very first steps London took towards becoming a fashion capital.

LONDON fashion... is

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In the 1960s, Mary Quant designed the Mini skirt and all young adults in town were riding Vespa’s and Lambretta’s, listening to reggae music and partying till dawn. These were the years of the mods, when London fashion found its own real character where it still is, on the streets. As Mary Quant described, “Once only the rich and the Establishment set the fashion. Now it is the inexpensive little dress seen on the girls on High Street. These girls...are alive...looking, listening, ready to try anything new... They may be dukes’ daughters, doctors’ daughters, dockers’ daughters. They are not interested in status symbols. They don’t worry about accents or class... They represent the whole new spirit that is present day Britain – a classless spirit that has grown up out of the second world war...They are the mods.”


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The New Romantics

Vivienne Westwood and the Punk culture It was also on the King’s Road that the Punk fashion movement was born. After the boutique Hung on You changed management a few times, in 1970 it was called Paradise Garage. Out of the back of the shop, Vivienne Westwood and Malcolm McLaren used to sell second hand 1950’s rock and roll albums. One year later they took over the business and called it Let it Rock. This was the beginning of Westwood’s career: although she never was trained as a designer, she started creating copies and interpretations of the Teddy Boys’ style.

However, the Punk movement wasn’t the only one created by the merge of music and fashion- but Vivienne Westwood still had her hands on it. The manager of the band Adam & the Ants had worked in the designer’s shop. The band reached great success in the early 1980s, when the movement of the New Romantics conquered the clubbing scene in London and subsequently the whole world. The new Romantics were those that preferred the dressed-up and flamboyant luxurious looks to the anti-fashion Punk. The movement was brought to international attention by other famous British bands such as Spandau Ballet and Duran Duran. But the most influential figure, who also helped to make British fashion an inspiration for many all over the world was the princess of Wales, Lady Diana. Her wedding dress, designed by David & Elizabeth Emanuel was and still is a symbol of the New Romantics. The princess’s choice to wear a dress

they were looking for simply by placing a certain model in their show. Two from the group of supermodels are still in the spotlight and have become iconic figures. None other, of course, than Kate Moss and Naomi Campbell. The latter remains a contributor in many publications, acting as a guest-editor and interviewing big personalities. The former is still considered the most iconic woman in British fashion. In 2004 and 2005 she was linked, together with actress Sienna Miller, to the Boho Chic. This was a mix of 1960s vintage pieces with designers such as Matthew Williamson, Alice Temperley and Stella McCartney leading the way. London streets were blasted with gypsy skirts, patterned tunics and hobo bags everywhere. The look was huge all over the world, showing the oh-so-London

BORN in the STREETS and from the ability of people to CREATE their own STYLE Let it Rock became soon Too Fast to Live too Young to Die, and Westwood began dealing with biker rock items. After that, it changed again into SEX and specialised in leather and rubber clothing that were previously considered for the fetish lovers. SEX changed name again in 1977 into Seditionaries. Thanks to the various makeovers of this boutique combined with the success of the band managed by McLaren, the Sex Pistols, the Punk movement developed internationally and became the cult we remember, which to this day inspires the creations of artists and designers. Meanwhile Vivienne Westwood also grew up professionally, becoming one of Britain’s most influential and prestigious designers.

that wasn’t made by a couture designer was very peculiar, and compared to nowadays trends we might not look at it with less than horror shock, but it was an important anticipation of the contribution that Lady Diana was going to give to British fashion. Once her marriage ended, her influence in fashion grew. The success of designers such as Catherine Walker, Bruce Oldfield and Jacques Azagury greatly depended on her endorsement.

Celebrities and fashion As well as music and royalty, celebrities from the film and fashion industry are very inspirational in London. The supermodel phenomenon is a great example of how in the 1990s some designers could find the visibility

art of mixing and matching styles with a great result. Celebrities such as Mischa Barton and Lindsay Lohan embraced the trend in the US, where the style was promoted by Rachel Zoe. Other essential figures, who more recently have highlighted the peculiarity of London fashion as the one that is born in the streets and from the ability of people to create their own style, are Alexa Chung and Agyness Deyn. Alexa, often recognised as a “best dressed” phenomenon, won Mulberry’s favours and got a bag named after her and is now a contributing editor for British Vogue -the lady is showing brains! Agyness, recognisable for her boyish and fresh look, was a collaborator and a muse for the House of Holland designer Henry Holland

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Susie’s blog began in 2006, making it almost five years old – relatively old for a blog! The format generally alternates between outfit posts, reviews of the newest fashion shows and collections and everything in between.

B r i tish Fa s h i o n I c on

SUSIE L AU

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O

ne unique quality of Susie’s blog is the volume of posts. While a lot of bloggers post a few times per week with summary updates, Style Bubble regularly has a few posts per day. This makes it a real minute by minute guide to the life of this fashion enthusiast. Personal style is what makes Style Bubble particularly successful internationally. While the specific style of, say, the Parisian might be easy to quantify relying solely on Chanel chic and Breton stripes, Susie sums up London style as “unpredictable”, and she certainly has the evidence to prove it. Her own style is also difficult to put into words, with elements of boho meeting a barrage of different textures, all layered in interesting and unexpected ways. Even so, she manages to describe her own style quite eloquently as “eclectic, non-genre specific and full of tales to tell”. This might sound bragging before you read the blog, but the original mix of designers, vintage finds and unknown brands can’t really be described any other way.


NOIR b i o Words by SARAH MALLON

S

usie declines to mention a favourite designer on her blog and her reasoning for this is evident: her style is too varied to tie down to one brand. When asked which shows she is most looking forward to at London Fashion Week, she can’t narrow it down to just one or two; she’s looking forward to everything. Her blog displays recognition that brands can always surprise you; a collection will never be quite what you expect it to be. The designers she does deem to mention, however – Meadham Kirchoff, Christopher Kane, Mary Katrantzou and Richard Nicoll – all exude originality and manage to perfectly execute a completely different concept in each show. It’s clear to see Susie enjoys the unpredictability and experimental nature of London fashion, and through reading her quirky and honest diary entries it’s impossible to remain cynical of fashion as an expression of art. Susie slowly gained access to the fashion industry as her blog began to get noticed for its personal style and insight, and she was soon being invited to fashion shows, events, previews and parties. Although for a short time she was commissioning editor of Dazed Digital at Dazed & Confused, she continues to look at herself as an outsider in the complex industry of fashion. Perhaps this is because her personal style is so individual it is hard to confine to a particular sector of the industry or just one genre of dressing. However, blogs such as this ensure that the originality of London style can continue to spread, inspiring millions of people at once. A new generation of style is beginning, and as London style spreads it seems inevitable that the fashion outsiders of today will be the insiders of tomorrow

Susie sums up London style as “unpredictable”, and she certainly has the evidence to prove it.

You can access Susie’s blog at: www.stylebubble.co.uk


Lovethe& City

NOIR v i ew

Words by GILDA ORRU

“Y

ou are by yourself, against this huge crowd of people. You just need to be with someone to bare it.” Sometimes in casual conversations, the most intimate things come up. My colleague Anna was opening up about how she felt about the city: about love and the city. Her sentence, put there, just like an undeniable truth, made me think of when I broke up with my ex boyfriend and most of my foreign friends for some reason were expecting me to want to go back to Italy. Indeed, in these three years in the city I have met many people, especially women, who are in the city to follow their love, rather than their individual dreams. Many actually have given up those dreams, in order to stay close to their men, and live in a chosen condition of depending from someone else’s decisions. When I came to London, I was with someone. Although from the outside it might have looked like I came to the city to follow him, I had met him on the Isle of Wight and had already planned to study in London, so it just worked perfectly by chance that I started dating someone from there! Being in a couple, my experience within the city was different than it would have been if I was single. Apart from the obvious personal life situations, such as having a family to refer to and a friendly house to go to when feeling home sick, I got to know two different parts of London very well at the same time. My halls of residence were in Trent Park, quite far from the city, but if I could see the word Oakwood on the tube map, it meant to me that we were still in it. There was not much to explore, I have to say, but me and my fellow students were

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quite happy having walks in Enfield town, Cockfosters and enjoying the night life that the campus offered us. The other part of London I was discovering was Shad Thames. I used to spend all my weekends and man evenings there. After my first year of university, I even lived there for the whole summer. While halls were a place I never belonged to, this was a place I was starting to call home. I was in love with Shad Thames just as much as I was with my then boyfriend. For an islander,

the view of the river was somehow a relief from the absence of the sea, and the possibility to see Tower Bridge from the window was such an uplifting view, especially at night, when the water is still and you can see the reflection of the bridge on it. There were a few peculiar factors that made it a very unique experience: television host Paul O’Grady was our next door neighbour, and it was not unusual to walk away from the building on a Sunday morning, finding oneself in the middle of a film set. I was living

in a privileged area; I knew it and enjoyed every minute of it! And then it came: the break up! My attachment to the pebbled street, and my exciting walk back and forth to love was a huge issue to overcome. I missed everything about it: the fish platter at Brown’s; the Circle with the horse’s statue in the middle of it; the Design Museum, where I saw Tim Walker’s exhibition; the best burgers at the May Flower, where I had my 25th birthday party; the sun on the balcony before going to work; the wave of workers by the Hall of London; the big glass buildings around the Scoop. I did not go to that area for a while, and when it happened that I had to - e.g. to be a tourist guide to friends and family- Tower Bridge was still the great set of a love story, as well as my favourite part of the city. Perhaps one good thing about a village is that in fact, it’s not big enough for you to save certain “special places” forever. The main road is the one where you go through every day of your life, and that little romantic corner where you kissed your first love is also where your mum parks the car when in a hurry to get the bread. I truly broke up with the whole part of the city that I almost named home, and as much it was heart breaking and incredibly hard, I had a whole new start for myself, many new places to explore, and a person to blame for never taking me to see them!


NOIR v i ew You play DODGEMS with HUMANS as you RUSH through the streets; politeness is practically an ALIEN term to most.

Words By ALIX CAREY

WHY I L VE LONDON O TOWN! lder than New York, bigger than Paris, more cosmopolitan than LA and certainly warmer than Moscow, the queer and mysterious City of London is one of the most loved cities in the world. With the history and architecture, the fashion and the theatre not to mention the Royals and the shopping, people travel far and wide just to experience what she has to offer, but why do I love London Town?... because of everything you probably hate. You play dodgems with humans as you rush through the streets; politeness is practically an alien term to most. The underground is like entering a mild volcano, and you’ve learnt to tolerate the putrid sweaty armpit that’s shoved in your face during the rush hour tube race. You return home with perhaps half a year of your life gone due to stress and you always develop the black bogie syndrome. But while these may look like a list of negatives, to me they’re my guilty pleasure, and if the tube didn’t smell of humid rotting sweat or people apologised for standing on my feet it wouldn’t be the same London I’ve known and loved for all these years. It may seem odd to hear that the London underground isn’t on my hate

list, but I fail to see why people get themselves so stressed out over them. It’s not like I revel in the fact I’m about to be up close and personal with a sweating chubby middle-aged man, or face to face with that women who decided she wasn’t going to brush her teeth that morning. I agree those moments do have their disadvantages but putting all that to one side the underground is in fact the glue that connects each piece of London together. Without it the city would grind to a halt, and then what would everyone be complaining about? You see, people take the amazing things that London has to offer for granted and fail to appreciate what is sitting right under their nose. But of course it’s not just the being on the train, oh no, why stop there. I even enjoy the mad panic everyone is consumed with the moment they enter the station. Even on the calmest of days (if London has one) what is cool and composed on the outside swiftly alternates to frantic and stressed on the inside. Like a schizophrenic, the pace

immediately quickens and a face of steel and aggression takes over. The race begins, and like a herd of wild animals they charge to be the first on the tube, pushing and shoving their way to the front. Again, I’m not saying I take pleasure being shoved or being amongst in panic, but when you’re in a city like London you have to learn to accept it, and if you can’t then don’t put up with it. Besides if you take a step back and watch everyone, it becomes quite a comical process, especially when the happy busker is sat with his guitar or piano singing “don’t worry be happy” – what’s not to love. Obviously I’m not oblivious to everything truly great about London and there are plenty of other reasons why I love being there. It’s a city of amazing contrasts, amazing fashion and amazing sights, but to me the underground is seriously undervalued and I will continue to sing its praises for years to come

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NOIR’S GUIDE TO

WHERE to be in 2011 The thinking fashionista’s guide to the Big Smoke

Samuel Johnson once said

that when one is tired of London, one is tired of life. And with all due respect to our dear friend Mr Johnson, he was speaking in the 1700s, before things like Starbucks, the Tube and the holy of holies that is the Oxford Street Topshop (arm yourself with coffee and pointy elbows before entering). I like to think of London as a collection of little villages almost, as each borough is so wonderfully different and each has a unique atmosphere. There are micro-trends in EC1 that would be irrelevant in Knightsbridge. There are tucked away, tiny coffee shops that aren’t in the guide books. There are wonderful times to be had, and I can point you towards a few of them.

By DANIELA MOROSINI

WHERE TO DO BRUNCH 1. NUDE ESPRESSO HANBURY STREET, EAST LONDON Tucked away down a surprisingly calm street in the buzzing Brick Lane area, the Nude Espresso is perfect for a leisurely brunch or cup of coffee, with friendly but non-interfering staff and an impressive menu. Choose from flourless chocolate cakes, yummy brioches, or my personal favourite, the banana bread that comes with a hunk of honeycomb butter. Good coffee, wooden tables and magazine racks stuffed with hipster bibles like Dazed & Confused and i-D make this the perfect East London haunt. WHERE TO GET A TUCKED-AWAY LUNCH 2. TEA AND TATTLE - GREAT RUSSELL STREET, WESTMINSTER Because, let’s face it - London is touristy, and the places that spring up around big landmarks like the British Museum either come with a £14.99 price tag for a rubbish burger or screaming children next to you (or, if you eat at the Hard Rock Cafe, both!). Tea and Tattle is a complete godsend and haven of quiet along the manic streets surrounding the hallowed halls of the British Museum. Grab a quick, quiet but yummy sandwich and a decent coffee for under a fiver often - a rare treat in the city.

WHERE TO HIGH STREET SHOP 3. SPITALFIELD’S MARKET BISHOPSGATE , EAST LONDON I have a love/hate relationship with flagship stores. On the plus side, you tend to have a place to eat, lots of changing rooms and the full range available. On the minus side, you also have queues that rival those outside the Eiffel Tower, noise and a hell of a lot of hubbub. For good high-street shopping, but with enough boutiques thrown in to make you feel cosmopolitan, try Spitalfield’s Market. A 101 buses go here, and there’s a mix of shops you know, plus the Benefit boutique and chains like Wagamama, as well as the brilliant market stalls and one-off shops. A less touristy, more modern version of Covent Garden, Spitalfield’s is my hot tip for off the beaten track but still not in thrift store hell shopping. WHERE TO GET DESIGNER LABELS 4. GREAT MOUNT STREET - MAYFAIR It is, of course, pure decadence. The fact that there are parking spaces reserved along this red-brick street for those who have diplomatic immunity should give you enough of a feel as to the prices of places. But for window shopping, or splashing some serious cash, the Mount Street area is worth a look. Christian Louboutin, Marc Jacobs and the hallowed Mount Street Printers (if they don’t do Kate and Wills wedding invites, I’ll eat my hat) rub shoulders with yummy-mummy orientated boutiques and charming little tea rooms. Bring your platinum card. Or someone who looks like they have one. WHERE TO SHOP VINTAGE CHIC 5. MY SUGARLAND BOUTIQUE ST JOHN STREET, ISLINGTON Even from the outside, this vintage and up and coming designer boutique is a beauty. Run by celebrity stylist (but beautifully down to earth) Zoe Lem, My Sugarland offers a stunning


NOIR g u i d e

LONDON selection of vintage frocks and new collections, and is one of Vogue’s 100 Top Boutiques. Labels like Jasper Garvida, Irwin & Jordan and Hoss Intropia sit alongside the amazing vintage bridal section, and My Sugarland also boats an impressive range of fascinators, gloves, suitcases and even bits of furniture from time to time. Keep an eye for their private shopping evenings and “car boot sales” where you can shop with a glass of bubbly and get expert advice from Ms Lem herself. WHERE TO GET DINNER 6. CHA CHA MOON, GANTON STREET, CENTRAL If you get lost trying to find this place, find the thing that looks like a club and you’re there. Inside, outside, even in the toilets, this place looks like a Ke$ha video meets an Oriental paradise. Just off the wonderful Carnaby Street, the Cha Cha Moon has a range of authentic Eastern cuisine, served on lovely crockery with smiley staff. Prices aren’t too bad for Central London, and the dishes are incredibly flavoursome. Great cocktail and mocktail menu too! WHERE TO GRAB A TREAT TO TAKE HOME 7. HUMMINGBIRD BAKERY BRANCHES FROM SOHO TO OLD BROMPTON ST. Cupcakes and whoopie pies may be oh so American, but they’ve fast become part and parcel of a good day in London. Choose from

the hedonistic classic Red Velvet cupcake (cream cheese frosting), the indulgent Black Bottom (chocolate cream) or one of the fab daily specials, at about £2.40 in one of these delightful little branches. Easily packed to eat in or take away, and also available to do deliveries and custom orders for special occasions. The Hummingbird will always be my favorite cake haunt in London - especially as they now do a Gluten Free range, allowing wheat intolerants like myself to join in the fun! WHERE TO STAY 8. ONE ALDYWCH HOTEL, THE ALDWYCH, STRAND This wonderfully modern and classy hotel boasts gorgeous rooms, a lovely reception and a private cinema. Check in around Fashion Week and have a front-row seat for people spotting (LFW is held at Somerset House, directly opposite) and watch the world go by in style. A best bet for contemporary glamour. WHAT TO DO IF IT RAINS 9. BFI FILM INSTITUTE SOUTHBANK It’s not always picnic weather in London. More often than not, it’s a bit nippy, windy or heaven forbid rainy - and even the most resilient traveller can be put off by our year-round April showers. Should your plans be changed due to weather, check in to the British Film Institute on Southbank, where for all of 2011, one classic Disney film will be shown every week. There’s also an Audrey Hepburn season in the pipeline 27


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ON THE STREE T

I N LOND O N

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1

Noir welcomes you to London! By GILDA ORRU

he city offers great opportunities; watch trends rise and fall. Designers themselves remarkably take inspiration from the streets of our marvellous capital, but London is not just about what you find in the stores. It is not the minimal chic of Parisian ladies, nor is it the made to measure Italian dress code. London takes the wild heart of Europe’s signature, with very few restrictions, great bravery and a big big passion for innovation and a British rough touch. IMAGE 1 Street in London can often mean tube. And that’s where I spotted this girl, who certainly knows how to have it all! With the leopard printed scarf –with matching earmuffs! – and the oversized fair-isle coat she masters the mixed print trend. A hobo-look for the brave. IMAGE 2 Asian girls do it better! This lady looked so cool: a classy ruffled up coat made individual by statement accessories: the belt, the colourful tights, the hat with the tulle flower and, cherry on the cake, our loved animal print handbag! And she’s teaching her little one well, how stylish is she with the furry coat?

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IMAGE 3&4 Talking fur... shopping days in Angel can be frosty! I absolutely loved the way this lady pulled off her furry gloves and Cossack hat with the camel coat. The flowery leggings add a touch of fun and the anticipation of spring trends! But, see left for what conquered my heart, the laced boots, the main character of many London fashion tales.

IMAGE 6 Spectacles are a fashion statement this year, hurray! London is going geek-chic for real: this lady takes her specs to a super-cool level, matching with the black wool packer hat, the calf-length sneak printed dress and the grey chunky scarf. Just irresistible!

3 IMAGE 5 Have you heard about the new head-scarf trend coming this spring? Right, let me show you the real thing. The young lady I snapped in North London works the colour-block trend better than anyone with highstreet budget. Moreover, she doesn’t miss a trend –notice the brogues, the fair-isle cardi, the military coat – and she shows off her retro leather bag with great style.

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6 IMAGE 7 Paying homage to the British representative brand Dr Martens. These bad boys satisfy many ladies’ needs! From the eccentrics, to the rave culture gals, to the intellectuals, to the girly latest Hello Kitty version, they represent the history and the culture of this city more than any other pair. These, snapped in an outdoor shopping centre, celebrate the laced heels with a rough touch in a rock-chick black patent.

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M y S TY L E W IT H .. .

EMILY SE A RE S Interview by CHARLOTTE THWAITES

Emily Seares, one of London’s top Fashion Bloggers talks to Charlotte Thwaites about London, Style and everything in between.

E

mily’s first fashion job was at French Connection at the young age of 16! She went onto do a post-graduate course in magazine journalism and started working on the news desk at Retail Week. In February 2008 Emily joined the team at Drapers. However, about eighteen months ago she decided to go freelance and started up her own blog: www.fashionbite.co.uk Emily also went on to launch On|Off’s first blog during London Fashion Week and has just recently joined the luxury watch retailer T I M E 2 . c o . u k as their online editor. Emily still does freelance work for Drapers. She believes that ‘after having over 5 years experience within the Fashion Industry, constantly developing relationships with PR’s and attending events it has made me become recognised within the Fashion Industry.’

How would you describe your for the evening with a glass of personal style? wine and my laptop to do some Quite eclectic. I like to mix-up it up with high street, vintage (including my parent’s old fur coats and leather bomber jackets from the ‘70’s) and I love vintage Chanel. I like layering- chunky cardi’s, legwarmers over tights or long boyfriend-style blazers. But I also like the clean, minimalist looks as seen at Celine, Stella and Chloe for SS11. I also have a

online shopping.

What’s the most recent fashion item you have bought? A blazer from Reiss and some cashmere/cotton round-neck jumpers from Uniqlo, they didn’t have round-necks in women’s for some reason so I bought men’s extra small and they fit great.

Fashion shouldn’t be about looking like everyone else, trends are great but you need to adapt them to suit your own look.

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thing about hats and coats; you can really make an outfit with an amazing coat/hat.

Do you prefer to shop online or on the high street? A mixture of both, I work on Carnaby Street 2-3 days a week at http://time2.co.uk so I love browsing the independent boutiques and shops around there and also along Oxford Street. But I love settling down

What fashion accessory could you not live without?

I have a brown leather box bag I bought from a market in Singapore last year. It looks like an old Binoculars’ case and I love it. I’ve tied a silk-print handkerchief around the handle, which I picked up from the Belle Sauvage show at LFW a couple of seasons ago.

Which celebrity’s style do you most admire? I don’t really follow celebrity style, but I like someone who looks quirky and individual. Kate Moss and Florence Welch always look good.


Does this celebrity influence your own style? If so, how?

st y l e Here’s looking at youNOIR kid

Not directly, but I do like the way she [Florence] has fun with fashion. Fashion shouldn’t be about looking like everyone else, trends are great but you need to adapt them to suit your own look. I can’t stand it when someone looks like they’ve gone through a tick-list of what’s ‘on-trend’ for that season, you need to add your own personality.

Do you have any favourite designers? I love Vivienne Westwood, Alexander McQueen and John Galliano. I also really like Louise Gray, her collection at London Fashion Week last season was so young and fresh- she really has fun with fashion.

What do you think will be a major trend for spring/ summer 2011? The ‘70’s has hugely influenced fashion for spring/summer 11whether it be flared trousers, floppy ‘70’s style hats/ headscarves, sheer blouses or white cotton dresses. Going forward, with the launch of Boardwalk Empire at the start of February (new Scorsese series about the 1920’s USA prohibition era set in Atlantic City), I think the 1920’s will have a big influence on fashion.

What trend will you try to avoid in spring/summer 2011? High-waisted shortsthey don’t flatter!

Quick Fire Questions: Cheap or Chic? - Chic High Street or Catwalk? Catwalk (if budget allowed!) Heels or Flats? - Heels Casual or Dressy? - Casual

By CLAIRE CULLEY

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llow me to introduce myself. I write a style blog called ‘She’s called Claire’ that centres around me wearing something vintage everyday for a year. I came up with this hair brained idea after one (or two) bottles of wine and a ridiculous amount of cheese and decided to just bite the bullet and become an official blogger. So in my cheese fuelled dreamy state I registered the site and my little challenge is now going from strength to strength and I’m only just over 100 days in. As you can imagine my outfits vary dramatically from day to day. One day I could be in a little slinky number, the next I could be in a jumpsuit and then the next I could be wearing a floral polyester frock similar to what your Gran would wear. Therefore I do have to admit that one thing that worries me slightly is that at what point does this stop being a quest for me to mix vintage into my daily outfits and try and express my own style and end up being a slow ride into dressing like my Mother (or probably more likely, my Grandmother.) A lot of women spend most of their lives trying not to ‘end up like their mother’. Sometimes it’s dubbed one of their biggest fears and they will do anything they can to make sure it doesn’t happen. That said, if you look at mothers and daughters in the media you hardly ever hear of daughters turning into their mothers. Take Goldie Hawn & Kate Hudson or Sharon & Kelly Osbourne, they are the perfect examples of it actually being good to turn into your mum slightly. Suddenly the phrase ‘like mother, like daughter’ doesn’t seem so bad eh? Anyway, these thoughts were triggered in my brain a few days ago

when I found myself proudly sporting a blouse from C&A’s. You remember C&A’s? It was the shop that your Mum insisted on dragging you round and round and round on a Saturday afternoon when all you wanted to do was go to Woolies and buy some sweets. I dread to think of the amount of hours I had to spend in that shop. Total it up with M&S and BHS and I reckon I’ve lost a hefty part of my childhood right there. I vividly remembersitting on the floor in the purple changing rooms while my Ma tried on outfit after outfit and each time she’d come out to show off her potential purchase I’d say “Ergh mum don’t buy that, lets go get you something cool”. However the turn around point in this is that the very fact that I was wearing a blouse from a shop that closed down years ago and very much has an Edwardian feel would now be deemed as cool. The fashion world is turning on its axis and now the clothes you used to mock your mother for wearing now provide you with a cracking sense of style and individualism. I think the fact that I love a good cup of tea and a sit down, sometimes I choose to stay in rather than go out - I’m at my most happiest when I’m baking and I have a bit of a love affair with good haberdashery - is what got me concerned initially. But then I think is it really that bad if I do turn into my mother? She’s an amazing cook, she’s got an amazing sense of style, she dresses perfectly for her shape and is confident in herself. Is this not how I ultimately want to end up anyway? So why not take a few pointers from her. As long as I don’t end up wearing a fleece and crocs then I figure I’m ok for now. Seriously mum, take those horrible adult jelly shoes off your feet. I do not like them


This London-based electronic pop duo are set to be the next big thing in 2011. Interview by LAURA SMITH

T

he first signing of Sony’s relaunched label ‘Deconstruction Records’, Kye Sones and Anthony Gorry spent last year earning their stripes on the festival circuit, where their mix of classic Indie rock/pop with epic synths and an electronic heartbeat, earned them a legion of fans. With their debut single “If I Were You” set to hit the airwaves this month, we caught up with Kye to explore the inner-workings of Diagram of the Heart.

How did Diagram of the Heart come together? We met on Myspace. At the time I was working two jobs, one of which was chimney sweeping (yep they still exist!) I’d spend my evenings writing songs and performing wherever I could. I was looking for that unique sound, which I found when I started working with Anthony. I liked the music he was making and we clicked musically and creatively.

What was it like, being the first band signed to Decon?

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Mike Pickering told us he was resurrecting the label and we jumped at the chance to be part of it. He’s been an artist, a DJ, a label boss and has had massive success in all those areas, so if he gives you advice you listen! The music Decon put out in the 90’s was iconic and that’s what we’re hoping to do with Vital Signs. Mike also looks after Kasabian and Calvin Harris; two of my favourite artists, so we know we’re in a good home!

Do you prefer working in the studio or performing live? Live for sure! There’s nothing better than seeing a crowd jumping up and down to your songs. The most exciting thing for us when making the record was visualising how we were going to take it out on the road. We have three other guys that join us on stage; Mad Max on bass, Chris Haddon on guitar and Grant Kershaw on drums. We’ve got great band chemistry.

What was your festival experience like last summer? Amazing! We had an early slot which meant we had to work extra hard to get people in our tent. The festival crowd is our perfect audience – people who are there just to have a good time and let loose. Supporting Calvin Harris at Ibiza Rocks and playing the iTunes festival in Camden’s Roundhouse were definite highlights!

What can we expect from your album Vital Signs? We didn’t want any fillers so we wrote 30 songs and picked the best. There’s tracks for big nights out and we end the album with “Why Does It Hurt?” It’s a perfect chill out for the morning after! We wanted to make an album that takes you on a journey and makes you feel a mixture of emotions … like a good DJ would.


NOIR m u si c

“Euphoric, big room

sound with one foot in the warehouse and one foot in the charts.”

VITAL STATISTICS: Their music: “Euphoric, big room sound with one foot in the warehouse and one foot in the charts.” Their influences: “Oasis and blur in the 90s Britpop explosion and a mutual love of dance music.” They’re listening to: “Alex Metric & Steve Angello’s track “Open Your Eyes”, Magnetic Man, Temper Trap, Mike Snow and Kasabian.” They chose ‘Diagram of the Heart’ “because our lyrics are heart felt and emotive and there’s a strong beat throughout our music, like a beating heart!” Their single: Gloriously upbeat and infectious electronic synth pop, already championed by the likes of Fearne Cotton. Along with their album, it’s destined for essential summer listening. Out now!

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I’m loving...

Vintage Fashion By ALIX CAREY

Traditional, antique,

dated and old fashioned are just a few words you’d find sat next to ‘vintage’ in the thesaurus, but to the fashion obsessed; timeless, unique, classic, and even phrases such as the heart of fashion are terms much more fitting.

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Your guide to vintage shopping in London V

intage fashion has seen a major revival over the last few years, and it’s a trend that is only continuing to grow in popularity. From the 1920’s through to the 1980’s the fashion world has been witness to decades of stylish trends, all of which are now resurfacing to the modern day catwalk. Top designers are now creating wondrous replicas of the once wonderful designs, high street stores such as Topshop have even created their own vintage boutique with replica classic styles and other stores are now creating ‘vintage inspired’ lines. However when it comes to making a choice between a vintage classic and a vintage replica there isn’t much of a decision to be made. With high street chain fashion, although a piece is generally new and trendy, it also almost surely has thousands of duplicates, and particularly with most popular chains you’re guaranteed to see an exact replica in another store. Vintage finds on the other hand are weathered and mired in history. They have a story that prompts curiosity about their origins and previous owners. Could that sweet 1940’s tea dress have been the dress worn by a young 1940’s girl on her first date? Was this 1950’s aviator jacket worn by a RAF pilot during World War 2? Essentially yes, if you think about it logically it is owning somebody else’s

junk, something that was relegated to a bargain bin long ago by someone who classed it as old and worthless. But to the vintage shopper it’s a hidden gem, a treasure that completes their wardrobe, giving them a more individualised appeal. This is in essence what a vintage shopping is all about – being unique. It’s a known fact that London is a haven for vintage shopping, and it seems whatever you’re looking for you find – 1920’s flapper dresses to 1930’s ball gowns, 1950’s American leathers, 1960’s beaded shift or even a pair of 1970’s flares, there is nothing you won’t find. Of course it’s a lot more complex to high street shopping, it takes patience. Vintage shopping is a hunt, you spend your time filing through all the items until you find that piece that grabs your eye, but once you’ve made your catch there’s no putting it on hold, or waiting till next month’s pay cheque because it’s a little bit out of your budget, in the vintage world it’s either now or never and never is rarely ever an option. So the next time you go shopping in London, try and repel the magnetism of Oxford Street and make a detour to the world of vintage. It’ll be a shopping trip you’ll never forget.... you may never visit Topshop ever again!


NOIR g u i d e

The Markets 1. CAMDEN MARKET

3. Brick Lane Market

Camden Market is the largest street market in the UK and attracts around 500,000 visitors each week. With six different markets in total there is more than enough to keep your vintage taste buds tingling with hundreds of alternative and vintage clothing stalls and shops.

At this traditional well known flee market, you can find just about anything. It’s a vibrant and energetic market where you are sure to find a bargain, but more importantly you never know what you’re going to find which makes vintage shopping all the more exciting.

BEST PICKS:

Best picks:

Cloud Cuckoo Land

Absolute Vintage

With a range spanning from Victorian If you’re one of those women who foltimes to the 1980’s its perfect for that low the idea that “you can’t ever have vintage frock. enough hats, gloves or shoes” then a visit to Absolute Vintage is an absolute Thea Vintage must. Located in the stables market you’ll find an array of seasonally appropriate stock Beyond Retro from colourful jeans to polka dot macs. For the fashion student, indie kid or the bargain hunter stylist, Beyond Retro Lost ‘n’ found has everything from silk scarves to tea If you want the 1950’s American look dresses, all at a bargain price. this is the place to be. Think T-bird leathHow to get there? ers and college sweats.

Annies

Looking for a gown? Be it a 1940’s Tea dress or a 1920 flappers, this vintage gem won’t disappoint. How to get there? Nearest tube: Camden High Street

2. Portobello Market Located on Portobello Road (funnily enough), Portobello Market is one of the most famous street markets in the world. Running straight through the heart of Notting hill it stretches for about two miles with fashion stalls spread from one end to the other. With everything from stalls dedicated to vintage bags, vintage dresses and now vintage coats, it’s definitely worth the visit.

Nearest tube: Liverpool Street.

Don’t worry boys we haven’t forgotten 4. Old Vintage Hat about you... A hop and step down Fulham high street takes you to this little gem of a boutique. Aimed directly for men you could discover a Savile Row Suit for as little as £100. Get there now! How to get there? Nearest tube: Putney Bridge

5. Wow Retro Found in the cobbled streets of Covent Garden this collector vintage store displays all of its clothes per era.

How to get there?

How to get there?

Nearest Tube: Notting Hill gate

Nearest tube: Covent Garden

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Purple One Shoulder Dress ÂŁ49


“I love painting. It’s my perfect way to zone out and feel free” Interview by LEANNE MILLIGAN

Bow Embellished Dress £69, Shoes from Fearne’s collection at Very.

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of last year: an engagement to on-again-off-again skater boyfriend Jessie Jenkins. I am exhausted for her! So I grabbed some time with the lovely Fearne to chat presenting, fashion, art and to check out her new collection for Very.

When you’re not working, what do you love doing? I love painting. It’s my perfect way to zone out and feel free. I’m painting a huge portrait at the moment. I also enjoy running and am currently training for a half marathon. Watching TV shows with my mates is also brilliant.

F

Pansy Print Wrap Dress £59, Shoes from Fearne’s collection at Very.

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earne Cotton is one of those stars who will become a British TV Institution. She has the raw ability to emphasize with her interviewees and the viewers, and get high profile people such as Mischa Barton & Princes William & Harry to open up to her, and in some cases show her, a glimpse into their everyday lives. Born in London in 1981, Fearne (or Dot Cotton as her Celebrity Juice co-stars call her) got into presenting by accident, being chosen at the early age of 15 to present on GMTV’s The Disney Club. Fast-forward to nowadays, and just about to hit her 30s, Fearne has squeezed the following into the last few years; Top of the Pops, a hit Radio1 show, Children in Need, Comic Relief, Fearne and…, Celebrity Juice, a book on friendship with BFF Holly Willoughby, climbing Kilimanjaro and trekking the Inca trail for charity, 4 bestselling fashion collections at very.co.uk, a Boots makeup range, and as

Do you find it strange having so much of your personal life in the media? Yes. You can never truly get used to it. Or I can’t anyway. Moments which you would like to be private seem to lose their magic by people trying to pry a lot of the time. I keep lots of stuff back and try and keep my life and work life separate as much as possible.

Have you always wanted to be a Presenter? How did you break into the industry? I wanted to be a dancer or actress when I was a kid and went through a phase of wanting to be an air hostess. I got into presenting at the age of 15 by accident as I thought I was auditioning for a kid’s drama. I love what I do though and feeling lucky every day to be in the job I am.

Who have been your favourite interviewees? My favourite has to be the Princes. Truly charming and surprising in so many ways. Whenever I see them now they are so lovely and approachable and funny! They are fans of Radio 1 so it’s nice to know they listen to the show.


What would be your tips for someone wanting to break into the media industry?

Printed Double Peplum Dress £59, Shoes from Fearne’s collection at Very.

Get good work experience. See what the industry is really likely. So many people think they want to work in the business without knowing what it is truly like. When you take away the cameras that add that extra shine and glamour there’s a lot of hard work, need for thick skin, and determination involved.

You always feature on best dressed sections in magazines. How would you sum up your style? I don’t know as I just wear stuff I like and dependant on how I’m feeling each day. Sometimes I go Tomboy; I’m very into shirts and slacks at the moment but other times I go very girlie.

Your S/S11 collection for Very is out now. What were your inspirations for the collection? It all started with capturing that feeling when you first fall in love. It’s summer and your stomach is in knots. That’s why several items have knots in the fabric. A tie sleeve on a t-shirt, a knot on the one shoulder dress. I then started sketching and went from there. The colour pallet being very pastel and natural at times.

What are your favourite pieces from the collection? The purple pansy dress is lovely. I love a wrap dress and this is perfect for chilling in the sun at a festival, at a BBQ or on holiday.

How involved are you in the design process? I am fully involved. I make mood boards to begin, and then using my art background I draw every outfit look or item out and then sit with the very.co.uk guys. They would have been to New York recently so we will throw all our ideas into the mix and see the fabrics, catches, buttons etc they have sourced at vintage

markets or stores. Then the samples get made and we tweak it all from there!

What do you love about London? What do you love to do in London? I love how diverse London is. I’ve lived in a few different spots and there are so many wonderful hidden corners. I still love discovering new things about the city each week. I love the history and tradition. You can watch the changing of the guards, go vintage clothes shopping, go to a gallery and out for a night on the tiles all in one day.

What projects do you have coming up in 2011? This year is all about Radio 1, very.co.uk, and my make up range at Boots. We are also doing another series of Fearne and..., Celebrity Juice is also coming back!

Fearne’s clothing line for Very is availiable now online at www.very.co.uk Her makeup range for Boots is available in-store now.

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ED IT OR ’S TOP PICKS 49

e s£ On Dres e rpl er Pu ould Sh

Vintage Border Print Dress £49

Black Knot Front Jumpsuit £49

From Fearne’s S/S11 Very collection

Dress from Fearne’s collection at Very

Stripe Maxi Skirt £35

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Pansy Print Wrap Dress £59

Black and White Mesh Top Tunic Dress £49

Dress from Fearne’s collection at Very


OS

Jum

S it by A

NOIR st y l e

t shir ized sland s r e Ov iver I by R

Belte d

Dres s by

Prim

ark

psu

Alexa has the innate ability to look effortless by mixing designer with vintage & High Street.

Mac by A-Wear

Compiled by LEANNE MILLIGAN

S T EAL HER STYLE Alexa Chung Dress by ASOS

Trousers with Braces by M&S

Embellished Crop Top by Lipsy

Satchel by Red Herring @ Debenhams

Brogues by Internacionale

Brogue High Heel by Matalan

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GIRLS about London TOWN

Photography: © JENNY BROUGH - www.jennybrough.co.uk Make Up/Hair Stylist: ZOE WALTERS Stylist: LAURA GRANT-EVANS - www.lauragrant-evans.com Model: SHANNON @ Oxygen Retoucher: MONICA CHAMORRO Vintage clothes: HOPE AND HARLEQUIN, Brighton - www.hopeandharlequin.com

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Dress: Vintage from Hope and Harlequin Flower: Primark

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Silk Chinese Jacket: Vintage Hope and Harlequin Trousers: Reiss Loafers: Henry Holland Earrings: Topshop


Dress: Vintage from Hope and Harlequin Cardigan: Primark Belt: H&M Fur Stole: Urban Outfitters Shoes: Kurt Geiger Bag: Marks and Spencer

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NOIR p erienc e and Harlequin Dress:ex Vintage from Hope Tights: Topshop Necklace: Jewellery by Vanya

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NOIR ex p er i en c e

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NOIR r e view

MATTHEW WILLIAMSON BY COLIN MCDOWELL (published by Rizzoli NEW YORK)

M U S T HAVE BOOKS :

Every girl’s dream is to own a bit of Matthew Williamson and this book shows you exactly why. Every page is full of sheer beauty. With comments from Sienna Miller, Anna Wintour and Matthew himself, this book delves into how the Matthew Williamson brand came about, his collections, and features such beautiful images of his collections as well as personal images of Matthew, his studio, working, backstage: allgiving us a great insight into the machine that is the Matthew Williamson brand. A must-read for all Williamson fans.

LO N DO N S P E C I A L

WHAT SHALL I WEAR TODAY? HANBURY STRBY FIFI LAPIN (published by Hodder) The sleeve of the book says it all: ‘This is a style book like no other’, and it really is. Featuring quirky, fun & helpful advice, the book features designers such as Paul Smith and Erdem giving their hints & tips as well as illustrations of catwalk collections all modelled on the lovely narrator of the book, Fifi Lappin, Style Bunny extraordinaire – yes really, a bunny. A delightful read, charting a weekday wardrobe and how to dress for each occasion of the week.

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THINGS I WISH MY MOTHER HAD TOLD ME: LESSONS IN GRACE & ELEGANCE BY LUCIA VAN DER POST (published by John Murray) Packed full of useful advice & tips on how to achieve elegance & grace. Features a good amount of content & resources (especially for the older generation), whilst sections such as ‘How to wear clothes’, ‘Love , marriage & happiness, & ‘Home sweet home’, guide us through the ins & outs of life. A great read & different from your usual style books.

DIY FASHION BY SELINA FRANCIS-BRYDEN (published by Lawrence King) London is the epicentre of DIY fashion so it was only fitting to include this useful book which teaches us how to customize & make our own clothes. Whilst some of the items I would never wear (denim scrap top anyone?), I am going to try to make the pop art hat & cassette tape necklace.

Compiled by LEANNE MILLIGAN. Illustration by HEATHER B.


NOIR b ea u t y

12 pages of PRODUCTS, hints, TIPS & TRENDS


NOIR bea u ty LANOLIPS Lip Ointment This is like a mini facial for your lips! Lips appear to be fuller and softer just after the first use. Definitely worth picking up! Rating 5/5

TOM FORD White Patchouli eau de parfum This perfume comes in the signature Tom Ford bottle; it has a sweet floral scent that I recommend for daytime. However I do also recommend carrying the bottle in your bag as it didn’t stay on for as long as I hoped. Rating 3/5

Compiled by LOUISE MILLIGAN

MAC Strobe Cream A generously-sized bottle (only the smallest amount is needed for each application) of smooth cream packed with light-reflecting particles. A superior highlighter that makes skin glow – and with good reason, a MAC girl told me Kylie used it on her derriere in the hotpants years. Rating: 5/5

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AROMATHERAPY ASSOCIATES Relax deep bath and shower oil Take a bath with this product before bed and I swear you will sleep like a baby. The various oils seek to give you moisture and relax your mind. I was very impressed at the effectiveness of this product! Rating 5/5

T RIE D & TESTED THE BEAUTY HIT LIST

PERF-FEKT Skin perfection gel Comes in a unique blue bottle with a pump. The gel formula instantly blended into my skin tone and made it unbelievably silky. Oil, fragrance, talc and paraben free what more could you look for in a foundation! Rating: 5/5

ESTEE LAUDER Face primer plus Anti redness Product is great for oily skin, not only does the yellow tints cover any discolouration’s, its oil free so won’t clog your pores! Rating 4/5

KORRES Lip butter These lip balms came in a range of colours each with their own unique smell. The pots are easy to use and the tinted colours are great for daytime or a night out. Shea butter penetrates your lips giving them deep hydration. Rating 4/5

AVEDA Deep cleansing herbal clay mask My skin looked cleansed after using, however the product takes a while to dry and the strong smell put me off. Rating 2/5


LUSH Dream Cream Filled with essential oils and oat milk to moisturize for heavenly soft skin. Great for after showers and is also Vegan. Rating: 3/5

KORRES Quince Body butter An all round amazing product, it’s thick and creamy which is great for the harsh weather conditions and the uplifting smell melts away any winter blues! Rating 5/5

ELEMIS Marine cream Wonderfully luxurious and smells divine. Skin feels instantly hydrated and improved the overall appearance of my skin. However the price against the effectiveness is debatable. Rating 4/5

BLISS Triple Oxygen instant energizing mask This product was amazing: the pink gel smelled lovely and you could feel the light tingle of the pink gel turning into foam. Great for anyone who wants to treat themselves to a DIY facial. I recommend using with the Triple Oxygen and C energizing cream. Rating: 5/5

NOIR b ea u t y

TR I E D & TESTED THE BEAUTY HIT LIST

SHISEIDO Automatic Fine Eyeliner A great eyeliner for accuracy. The button at the bottom of eyeliner is a bit fidgety to handle but once you get the hang of it, it provides an excellent fine line. Not recommended for first time eyeliner users. Rating: 3/5

URBAN DECAY Shadow Primer Potion A much loved product that lived up to its expectations. Comes in a quirky shaped bottle with a slanted brush applicator: easy for application. Eye makeup lasted all day long without any creasing. A must have for everyone! Rating: 5/5

LUSH Dream Wash A thick creamy soap with chamomile and soothing herbs that smells wonderful! It is also Vegan which makes it free from any nasty chemicals Rating: 3/5

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NOIR bea u ty KORRES Cherry lip gloss in 27 A rich plum shade that flatters paler skin tones and is enriched with cherry oil, vitamins and antioxidant protection. The colour lasted long and is very moisturising. Rating: 4/5

T RIE D & TESTED THE BEAUTY HIT LIST

BENEFIT Hello Flawless A powder that came in quirky packaging and has a compact area with a brush and sponge. However did not provide as good a cover up as expected and is difficult to open. Rating: 2/5

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RIMMEL 60 second drying Nail Polish This colour was rich and vibrant! It dries in the promised 60 seconds if not faster. Easy to apply but I recommend a clear undercoat to avoid stained nails. Rating: 4/5

BURBERRY Soft satin lipstick Comes in a magnetic rectangular packaging, and like most Burberry products had excellent results, the colours were long lasting and the satin finish provided a soft colour that wasn’t too harsh on my pale skin. Rating 4/5

JEMMA KIDD Chic cheeks Comes in a variety of shades to match most skin tones. However the product was a bit drying and didn’t last very long on my cheeks. Rating: 2/5

LOREAL PARIS Quad Pro for green eyes I loved how this product came in different shades to compliment different eye colours. The easy 1,2,3,4 step application made it easy to apply for a professional look. The shape of the applicator brushes was excellent for applying the eye shadow. Rating: 4/5

Compiled by LOUISE MILLIGAN

LOREAL PARIS Volume Million lashes Comes in a sleek gold tube with an anti-clump wiper. It gave my eyelashes an instant lift. However only two coats are needed to prevent lashes from sticking. Rating: 4/5

TOM FORD Lipstick Great packaging. Great colour. Great moisturisation. Long-lasting. What else do you need? Rating: 5/5


Q&A Interview by LEANNE MILLIGAN

Numero and Muse magazine and also worked with my advertising and private clients too.

How did you get your start in the industry? I started working for MAC Cosmetics while I was at University in Manchester. MAC inspired me to see if I could turn what I thought was a fun and cool job and turn it in to a career. They really nurtured and supported me. I left to become a freelance makeup artist and tried to make my dreams a reality. I have been very lucky and also have worked very hard and I am supported by my wonderful agent Cassandra Maxwell at CLM.

You have been the makeup artist for stars such as Alexa Chung, Lily Allen and Victoria Best aspect of the job is doing Beckham. How do you decide something I love and am upon the look to go for, for passionate about daily. Being your clients? What are the best and worst aspects of your job?

able to improve and constantly work on my skills, technique and research ability. I love working in different teams with people who are like minded and who inspire me and push me to go further. The travel is amazing, I often want

It really depends on the client. I always research the client first. If it is someone who has been photographed a lot I try to look up as many images of her as possible. I look for red carpet

G E O R G I N A G R A H A M:

M a ke - u p A r t i s t What are you currently up to right now in your career? At the moment I am getting ready for the fun and madness that will be fashion weeks. I have had a very busy last season which brought a lot of travel from Paris to Rio and lots of other exciting places with fantastic people and I worked for different publications from all different Vogue’s to

to pinch myself as I still can’t believe that I am being paid to go to amazing places and meet wonderful people and have unique experiences and be part of a team that creates beautiful images. I do not really have a worst aspect of the job only that I occasionally miss out personal things (dinners, birthdays of friends etc) because I may be away with work.

images to see what she likes and the different styles she may have tried out in the past as well as editorials. Then I make sure that I look for products that she may have mentioned in the press that she uses/likes and so on and make sure I have them or something similar in my kit. Then I think of new looks that I feel could look beautiful on that person and I put a little mood board together.

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When I meet the new client I try to get to know that person quickly, as often you may not have more than an hour, and feel what they would like as well as always asking them how they would like to look. Sometimes I may have a discussion with the stylist and hair stylist or perhaps my agent has been sent a brief and I follow it. The clients that I like working with the most are the ones that trust your creative expertise and process and would like some input and then it becomes a collaborative experience. It is also important that when you work with a private client for a red carpet event they generally want to look the most beautiful that they can look and they would like it to last the entire evening, so I try to use all my years of developed technique and makeup secrets to ensure that I do the best that I can.

at the designer’s studio. I look at references and mood boards. I do some research with my assistants and then I go for a hair and makeup fitting. In this fitting we try out different looks on a model and then photograph the model in the clothes and see where we get to. This can be a very fast process or a very slow process. Some designers I have a reputation with them for nailing the makeup on my first go and one stylist who shall remain nameless kept me for 2 days trying out different variations of straight eyebrows. It was clean skin and straight eyebrows and

Can you describe the process for working on catwalk shows? Do you follow makeup trends when deciding on looks?

I was starting to go a little loopy after 2 full days and then the stylist just said “ok we’ll go with the very first eyebrows that you did!”

and everything around me and the people I work with.

What is the best piece of advice you have ever received? So many people have given me great advice over the years and if I had more time I should put together a little manual for people wanting to start in the industry but this would be a few key points: 1) Listen. Really really listen. 2) The key to success is preparation and communication.

I adore working on the shows. This really is a wonderful experience for me and I look forward to it every season

I adore working on the shows. This really is a wonderful experience for me and I look forward to it every season. On shoots we the crew (photographer, stylist, hair, makeup,) are interpreting the clothes how we all want them to look regardless often of the designer, For a show you are privileged to hear the opinion of the designer, the person that designed that collection and has a vision and wants your input and to be part of that and work with the designer. It really is a great honour. I very rarely follow a makeup trend. I design an original makeup exclusively for the label that I am working with. I start the process by seeing the collection

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3) Remember that makeup is often the start the day so your mood is essential to how the day may turn out. 4) Stay calm and always treat people how you would like to be treated. 5) Do this because you

Most shows that I work on I have a makeup sponsor and an artist from that brand will attend a fitting and I do try to use new colours and products in the makeup design if they are suitable to my idea and what I want to do. Sometimes a brand will bring out a new lipstick for example lets say it is a perfect coral lipstick for a S/S show and every makeup artist wants to use it and does but this can also be something to do with the zeitgeist. The beauty journalists and press pick up on this. That is often how a trend is created. I am not anti trend at all. I think it is fun and changes things up a bit but I am not trend led and my ideas almost never come from trend. My ideas for makeup for shows come from anything

love it.

What are your favourite things to do in London? London is my favourite city in the World and I am a Londoner. I am very proud of London and think there is everything here from beautiful Art and Architecture to some of the most delicious food and interesting cultural events. I love going to the cinema and I like The Gate cinema in Notting Hill and also The Curzon in Soho for interesting and quirky films. I love to go to galleries and museums and I adore The Wallace Collection and The National Gallery. I love the parks in London during each season especially Hyde Park and Kensington Gardens and my favourite statue is the bronze Peter Pan statue by Sir George Frampton. I try to go see gigs when I get a chance and I am seeing Patti Smith perform at


the end of this month. I enjoy spending time with my loved ones and listening, talking and entertaining. I also am very happy in my own company and love to be left alone to read and research and get inspired for my next project!

London is my favourite city in the world and I am a Londoner

HOW TO ACHIEVE MAKEUP TRENDS:

S/S11 I really want to try the

Get a coral lipstick!!!! No on a more serious note S/S11 trends that I have picked up on and feel should be something that really is one to stick with is natural flawless skin that does not look like it is heavily made up with base makeup. I feel that to achieve this people should revise their skin care regime. I am not ashamed to admit that I saw a dermatologist for the first time last year and feel that made a big difference. I had good skin but I wanted great skin. I am not into botox or anything like that (yet!!!) but I do believe in using the right products for your skin and that can change depending on your lifestyle, climate, season, blah blah blah and I was given a vitamin C serum to use under my moisturiser and it is a special strength serum that has to be prescribed. I also was given a special face wash that really deep cleanses.

new Clarisonic machine! So obviously everyone has different needs but I think women should really look after their skin and see what they can do to it so they do not need so much foundation, powder etc. I notice that a lot of British women wear a heavy base makeup compared to say our French neighbours who tend to spend more on skin care and less on makeup except for say a fantastic red lipstick. As for actual trends, colour for 2011 is back in a big way, especially blue. All shades of blue and I used indigo and blue black as a fresh alternative to a black liquid line. I also feel that blush is coming back again after being away for a few seasons and try experimenting with a cream colour in a natural shade (from pinks to tawny bronzer colours) and they are so easy to use: fingers!!!!

Georgina Graham @ CLM

Images top to bottom are: BENEFIT - Ooh la lift, Lemon-aid, Like what you sea? - Velvet Eyeshadow. All available from - www.benefitcosmetics.co.uk

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DAFFODIL YELLOW Mellow yellows, sky blues & spring greens were all over the catwalk at LFW. The eye shadow was chalky and simple, with many make-up artists going back to basics and applying using their fingers! Use a subtle peachy blush and keep eyes mono. Black mascara is a must to make these eyes pop! Why not try another one of this seasons trends - braids! Plait the hair into 2 pigtails and then pin up around the hairline for an on trend, 70’s vibe.

00


Get YOUR LONDON look for spring & summer S/S LFW trends, made super wearable. C’mon ladies... it’s time to spring clean your look!

Words by HEATHER B Photography & Retouching: DANNY GASKA - www.dannygaska.com Make Up & Hair: HEATHER B - makeupbyheatherb.com Model: AMY BEIJER & DANIELLE ZARB-COUSIN @ Bookings Models - www.bookingsmodels.co.uk

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PEACH, THE NEW BRONZE If brights aren’t your thing, then this is the look for you. Use a foundation thats a shade darker than your own skin tone, then use a peachy bronzing powder and apply to the cheeks, temples and under the chin to get that youthful, healthy glow. Lips should be neutral and matte, so try patting a nude lipstick onto the lips using your finger to keep the whole look natural.

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PINKTASTIC! Lipstick queens, don’t panic! If you’ve been wearing red lips all winter, then you’ll love this trend, as strong lips are still en vogue this season... just freshen up your look with pink! Hot pink, fushia, coral, it doesn’t really matter... just make sure it’s BRIGHT! The key to this seasons lip trend is to keep it matt or just with a subtle sheen, rather than a full on gloss and keep those edges neat.


PRETTY BRIGHTS Smokey eye’s don’t always have to be in blacks and greys! Try lilacs, and light summery purples which look especially good on brown eyes. Apply all over the lids, blending upwards, outwards and blend into that lower lash line. A bit of colour is needed on the lip to balance the look but just keep it muted and pretty subtle. It’s cool to match your nails to your lips this season... why not start your own trend by matching yours to your eye colour!

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Products listed right can be found at www.boots.com, www.superdrug.com or at all good department stores. Prices listed were correct at time of going to press.


op

Apply this on t

REVLON Matte Lipstick in ‘Smoked peach’ £7.49

BARRY M Lip Paint in, Vibrant Pink, 62 £4.49 BENEFIT Eye Brightening Pencil £14.00

BARRY M Nail Paints in, Blueberry Ice Cream & Lemon Ice Cream £2.99

BOURJOIS Eye Shadow Trio in, Violet Romantic 06 £7.99

BOURJOIS Little Round Pot Eyeshadow in No 72 (Saturé) - Purple £5.99

TIC lip look

BARRY M Dazzle Dust in, Neon Pink, dd 85 £4.59

BRIGHTS for your bag!

BENEFIT Georgia Blusher £23.50

tick for the k lips PI

AS KT

BENEFIT Posietint £24.50

o

in fp

N

MAX FACTOR Max Colour Effects Dip-in Eye Shadows in, 07 Vibrant turquoise, 05 Ultra Violet, 06 Party Lime £5.99

BENEFIT Bella Bamba Blusher £23.50

BENEFIT Velvet Eyeshadow in, NEW Fancy Pansy, Ltd Edition £13.50

REVLON Scented Nail Enamel in,Mad About Mango & Bubble Gum - available in Boots & Superdrug Nationwide from March - August 2011 £6.49

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VIVIENNE WESTWOOD

T h e l i f e o f ...

A FA SHIO N WEEK PHOTOG RA PHER

Fashion weeks - often thought of as being glamourous, elegant and high profile events. But being a photographer for any one of the fashion weeks can be anything but!

By LISA WILKS

I

delve into the lifestyle of a top photographer, Kirstin Sinclair, who has worked at many a fashion week, from New York to Paris, London to Milan. From the start of her career to her present day, she reveals the highs and the lows and her favourite shows. She tells me what it’s really like at a Fashion Week, from a entirely different perspective.

What does a typical day shooting at a Fashion Week entail? I normally get up at 8am and the first show can start anytime from 9am onwards then the shows will go on until 9pm/10pm at night so I spend most of my day on my feet either at a show or running, taking a taxi to the next. I often eat lunch in the back of a cab.

How long have you been shooting at the Fashion Weeks? Approximately 6 years.

STREET STYLE

How did you get into photographing Fashion Shows?

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After University I assisted different photographers and also did work experience at Instyle Magazine. At the magazine I was in charge of returning slides and images to photographers. One of those photographers was catwalk photographer Anthea Simms. I asked the magazine if I

could phone her with their recommendation and they agreed. I phoned Anthea and I was very lucky as she had a position available so she interviewed me and I have been working for her ever since.

How many shows do you usually photograph in a day? On an average day, 7 – 8 shows.

What’s your favourite to shoot? Catwalk, Street, Front Row or Backstage? Backstage and general documentary atmosphere shots at the shows.

What’s the best show you have ever shot at? That’s very difficult to answer as everyone has their favourite designers, but for me the show that stands out the most is the Alexander McQueen SS06 show in Paris in October 2005.


D&G

DOLCE & GABBANA

London for individuality and creativity...

Where would you say is the then only just got a new passport the studio in Vogue, otherwise best city for street style? in time two hours before my flight my work at the shows has appeared in Elle magazine and London, Paris, New York or Milan. to go home. London for individuality and creativity but Paris during show time for the best fashion in terms of style, designer clothing and gorgeous locations.

Who is the most famous celebrity you have ever photographed and where was it? Sharon Stone, Robert De Niro and Dustin Hoffman are probably some of the biggest names I have been lucky enough to photograph.

What was the most stressful experience you have ever had working at a Fashion Week?

As for actually at the shows, there is always a certain amount of stress as the schedules are so packed and there are so many people trying to get in to shoot so there are always times when I am lost, late or the PR won’t let me in, it’s all part of the job!

What was the funniest experience you have had at Fashion Week? Getting carried out of a Marc Jacobs show by 2 security men because I didn’t have a pass to shoot the Front Row when I was supposed to be in there they had just run out of Front Row access stickers but no one had told security!

I flew to New York once and my Where’s the best place you passport expired whilst I was there have ever seen one of your as I had totally forgotten to check photographs published? the dates on it so I nearly didn’t get allowed into the country and I had fashion a picture I shot in

Elle Collections.

What’s next for you as a photographer? I am currently working on a book of my Catwalk Documentary photographs, which will becoming out in November alongside an exhibition where my work will be shown. The Exhibition ‘Catwalk to Cover’ will be at The Fashion and Textile Museum; I will be exhibiting with three other Photographers. So there we go. An exciting, magical but also stressful job to be a part of for the fashion weeks, but she wouldn’t change it for the world. I most definitely advise anyone to go view Kirstins’ exhibition later this year. Watch this space! To view more of Kristin Sinclairs’ gorgeous photography, visit her website at:

www.kirstinsinclair.com

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LFW A/W11: 64


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The Highlights 65


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A LA DISPOSITION Reviewed by LAURA SMITH Like birds of prey, models with menacing red eyes and windswept hair swooped down the runway during A La Disposition’s opulent ‘Utopian Aviary’ themed collection, in which gathering, ruffling and layering were all key components. Shoulders were structured with puffed cap-sleeves on dresses, capes double-breasted tail coats draping the torso like wings. High necklines were prominent on patterned shirts and chunky knits boasting voluminous ruffles gathered across the chest. These were paired with tapered trousers and layered tulip-hem pencil skirts which mimicked the shape and form of seabird’s plumage. The lavish collection was soft, feminine and romantic in tone, with the occasional nod to Elizabethan courtiers seen in extravagant ruffs set atop silk dresses with feminine bustles. A striking colour palette of peacock green, sky blue, shimmering orange, rich burgundy and vibrant yellow featured in chiffon, taffeta and gossamer silk and contrasted with darker hues of heavier fabrics including velvet, knitted wool and faux-fur. While some of the label’s more elaborate designs would look more at home on the stage of the Globe Theatre, there were some wearable pieces in the collection and the innovative use of gathered layers and ripples of volume certainly made for some interesting silhouettes.

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ZED EYE

LUNA SKY

ZED EYE

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A LA MODE Reviewed by LAUREN HAWES As with many emerging designers’ showcases, this show was a bit of a hit and a miss, the majority of the designers however, gave a beautiful show and had clearly thought about the themes they wanted to portray. Kicking it all off was London based fashion designer Luna Sky with her elegant collection for the elegant woman. From the outset, it was clear that she has a passion for floaty evening gowns that draw attention to the female figure. Her collection was a fusion of classic black and white evening and cocktail dresses in fabrics such as chiffon and lace embellished with crystals, sequins, flowers and ruffles. The subtle colour palette of white and black maintained a simplistic and classic evening look. Next up is Oman Mansoor with his Garden of Eden inspired collection titled “Paradise Lost”. He used two primary colours for his theme, green, which represented the leaved in the garden while the lilac signified the flowers. This palette was used alongside layers of sheer fabrics, dramatic necklines, beading and flower detailing to create his contemporary womenswear collection representing beauty, curiosity and sin. My favourite of the show was Nigerian designer Zed Eye, who proved to be very popular among the other guests as well. Fabrics such as leather, fur and

satin and a predominantly blue colour palette were used to create her sassy modern and yet classy collection. Fur collars and capes were featured heavily with pencil skirts finished off with either a mustard ankle boot or a fuchsia court heel. Although these 3 designers were clearly a hard act to follow, sadly the next designer, Egypt failed to impress. It was unclear whether her aim was to impress or confuse the audience with a rendition that could only be described as a cheesy 70’s disco tune sang by a woman dressed in a (very) tight pink metallic jumpsuit teamed with gold heels and accessories. And readers, I’m afraid to say, it did not get any better. The disco theme continued with leopard prints, inconceivably short dresses with very questionable stitching and a metallic palette. The designer’s lack of attention to detail was also evident through the model’s make up, fake tan and unsuitable underwear. For the finale, a full length pale pink and grey dress (one of the nicer pieces), literally fell off the model half way down the catwalk. The final collection left me a) wanting to give Egypt a good shake and ask her if she was serious about being a designer and b) wanting to give the poor model who’s boobs fell out a big hug and a large glass of wine.

ASHISH Reviewed by GILDA ORRU The poor little rich girls and boys portrayed in Ashish’s collection, seem to be the result of a great load of different inspirations. “Punk with a lower case p,” as too much sparkle enriches their sequence laid back pyjama-suits. Their ripped off jeans and jumpers also bring to the stage messages of awareness of the present hard times, animalistic slogans and writing all over their shoes. A heritage moment of glory, thanks to the tartan, presented in variations of several different colours; and the UK flag on knits. A social statement collection, dedicated to big kids who can still afford to play, it is a shame they find themselves with cobwebs on their knees.

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BRIX SMITH-START with JULIET JACKMAN

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AMINAKA WILMONT Reviewed by LAURA GRANT-EVANS Illustrated by JULIET JACKMAN The Aminaka Wilmont Autumn/Winter 2011 Collection, titled ‘Totem’, promised influence from totemic tribes, primitivism and subtraction, thus I was slightly disappointed when the music from Twilight accompanied the first model down the runway. It seemed we were in for a stand-off between werewolves and vampires, especially due to the models’ glowing yellow eyes. However, the mood, along with the music shifted quickly into a much more sophisticated collection of flowing silhouettes using silk georgette to skim the body and flatter.

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As with many collections this season, there was the use of digital prints; in this case inspired by animal hides, skins and furs. Whilst beautiful, they became quite repetitive and it would have been great to have seen some bolder colours laced through the prints. The predominant colour palette was grey, noticeable especially in the knitwear which had a much deconstructed shape and flowed over into arm and leg warmers which, at times, seemed out of step with the very asymmetric cuts of the dresses and tops. The high point of the collection was the trademark leather tailoring evident in washed leather jackets and shorts, topped off with thick, Italian shearling. It gave a tough, durable edge to the sometimes flimsy look of the dresses. This was wonderfully contrasted with the tribal inspired hair braiding that had a blunt cut across the bottom. One look that got the only real gasp out of the audience was the pheasant feather bolero which in itself was beautiful but was a seemingly lone reference to primitivism amongst a very straightforward collection. Brix Smith-Start who was sitting on the FROW summed it up afterwards when we spoke to her saying, ‘An incredibly wearable collection with some standout pieces.’


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BORA AKSU ANYA HINDMARCH Reviewed by GILDA ORRU There is a house that all girls dream of. It is the house where the fairytales we remember from our childhood can meet the luxury of the softest leather; a house where we can grow a tree, and the tree will fruit amazing handbags; the house where furniture can be made of books and the piano would play itself entertaining guests while they have afternoon tea and eat colourful jellies; a house with a garden, where a bench under a wire gazebo is floating on autumn leaves and surrounded by cosy wood; a house where small people can become big and big people can become small. It is the House of Intrigue, where Anya Hindmarch showed her Autumn/ Winter collection: a heaven for the imagination, an oasis for the tired LFW brains and a refreshing, friendly retreat.

Reviewed by LAURA GRANT-EVANS Illustrated by JULIET JACKMAN Bora Aksu has slowly been gaining momentum with his collections since he graduated from Central St. Martin’s in 2002 and it seemed to pay off this season with his show being the hot ticket of Friday night. With all the big-time editors otherwise engaged at Downing Street with the new queen of fashion, Sam Cam, I assumed the show would be struggling to draw a crowd. I was wrong. There was a paparazzi scrum as Twiggy, Nicola Roberts, Jodie Harsh and pop sensation Marina Diamondis, to name but a few, showed up for the front row. As soon as the deep base of Marilyn Manson’s “Sweet Dreams” hit the speakers, we all knew we were in for something special. Inspired by the contrast between proper and improper and taking specific influence from Dr Jekyll and Mr Hyde, the collection juxtaposed sharp Victorian tailoring such as capes and bow ties with feminine pleats and cocktail dresses. The cocktail dresses that have been a signature piece of the label in previous seasons gave way, in part, for more separates. There were short tailored jackets, trousers and a stand-out emerald green silk shirt. The colour palette played on East London in the late eighteenth century; smoggy greys and midnight blacks interspersed with the occasional flash of colour, which gave an underlying tone of darkness further highlighted by the leather accents on jackets and dresses. Chiffon headbands worn twisted across the face in a variety of shapes were the odd addition to the outfits which Bora has become known for. They added an avant-garde spin to the collection that didn’t detract from the clothes themselves, a feat that Bora accomplished with perfection throughout the whole show.

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BRYCE AIME Reviewed by LAURA SMITH Despite its military inspirations, Bryce Aime’s A/W11 collection has a definite industrial, urban and sporty feel to it. Set to pounding techno beats with strobe lighting slashing the catwalk, the streamlined and androgynous collection balances strong structured silhouettes with softer tailoring. Cape detailing on shoulders and short skater dresses act as a foil to razor sharp angles on panelled wet-look leggings and sporty biker jackets. Tailoring is also angular with prism shaped shoulders on fitted blazers. Matte and high shine materials are juxtaposed and sharp lines are contrasted with soft fabrics of jersey, silk, wool and suede. Unlike his S/S collection, Aime’s latest offering is as colourless as it is androgynous (he even throws in the occasional male model to emphasise the point). A pale dusky pink is the warmest shade we are afforded, as grey, black navy and silver dominate collarless jackets, dresses and super-tight leggings. Distinctive digital prints feature throughout, with the effect of ink dropped into water. As the pulsing soundtrack reaches crescendo, models march down the runway in crazy Perspex helmets, ending in a star-shaped prism dress which would feel right at home in Gaga’s wardrobe. Aime’s latest offering is cool and edgy but with heaps of clinging silk and Lycra, its probably best suited to the very skinny!

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CAROLINE CHARLES Reviewed by DANIELA MOROSINI Caroline Charles’ catwalk show marked the return of the equestrian. Bowler hats, pony tails and a good helping of old English charm were ubiquitous at the light-hearted show, complete with smiling (!!!) models. Classic cuts were complemented with demure midi-length skirts and some exceptionally cut jackets and a more refined use of lace. Think Sicilian widow lace, not Friday night down your local lace. Traditional English fabrics like velvet and lace complimented the tea-party style dresses and the playful bowler hats. This is a collection you could imagine your more demure Hollywood star in; more Claire Danes than Charlize Theron.

CENTRAL SAINT MARTINS MA AW11 Reviewed by LAURA CAVANAGH Central Saint Martins have produced, yet again, another collection of extremely unique and artistic designers. Having been host to a number of names such as Christopher Kane and David Koma, I am always keen to watch the catwalk selections shown by CSM and it remains a show that is very popular at LFW. The collection showcased the talents of L’Oreal joint prizewinners Phoebe English and Viktor Smedinge. English showing an all black womenswear collection featuring long hair like strands over matte finished leather dresses while Smedinge focused on camel coloured wool pieces combining voluptuous shapes and 3D scrolling.

CARLOTTA GHERZI FOR SADO

CRAIG LAWRENCE

Reviewed by EMMA CUDAHY

Reviewed by DANIELA MOROSINI

Sado’s runway show was one of the shows which stood out most for me. This is purely for the fact it wasn’t overrun with heavy leather. The collection was inspired by art deco, and was very feminine. The dresses were tight fitting and panelled, with most sporting floral prints, and others had mesh sleeves with again, cut out floral panels. The collection was elegant and has been designed to show off womanly curves with high-waisted skirts. The colours used were various different pastel colours, teamed with black and silver. The collection included different fur coats to compliment the dresses. The collection was very fresh and has me excited about seeing these designs appearing in A/W11.

Suffolk born Central Saint Martin’s alumnus Craig Lawrence is branching out on his own after six seasons working as the head knitwear designer with fellow hipster, Gareth Pugh. Fans of his work include the slightly kooky Tilda Swinton, and his AW11 presentation was certainly weird but wonderful. His designs are all knitted, but forget tea cosies Lawrence favours kookier fabrics like Kyototex and other thick, synthetic kinds of tubing and wool to create intricate, mind-bending designs. From a figure hugging petrol blue number (so tightly knitted that the model was taking pigeon steps) to show-stopping floor sweeping ball gowns entirely made of fishnet-esque fabrics, the whole collection was resplendent in it’s creativity. SO London. One to watch.

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DANIELLE SCUTT Reviewed by LEANNE MILLIGAN Being the first show of LFW for me and Danielle Scutt’s first collection after a 3 season hiatus, there was much anticipation for this collection as fashion darling after fashion darling crammed into the Old Sorting Office to view what was to be a directional showcase. It was no surprise that the A/W11 key trend of black was out in full force in Scutt’s collection: it is after all one of her signatures. After literally just arriving in London and having to run up and down New Oxford Street trying to find the venue, this was one show I was glad had run late and I do think my windswept (seriously London, what was with the weather??), jet-lagged look fitted well with the ‘Walk of shame’ dress code. One key piece which all on-trend lovers should covet next season is the bodycon velvet dresses which were out in force at this show. I have never been a massive fan of the old velvet (brings me memories of being 3 at a nursery school dance), but Scutt managed to compile them with edge, an air of the gothic but with a sense of sophistication – which is something very difficult to do with the material. The 80s were a clear inspiration for the collection with velvet, 80s shoulders, gold foil, hot pink, black jersey catsuits (which I LOVED), & lattice dresses parading the catwalk. Another key A/W11 trend on show was the volumised silhouettes in oversized long jackets & gold leather pieces. Understated pieces such as the knee-length pleated wool skirt slit right up to the nether regions,& sleek jumpsuits mixed with the edgier velvet bodycon dresses and couture feel of the lattice dresses which provided a concise collection which managed to be sexy yet with an air of sophistication. Heavy gilt statement accessories debuted the Danielle Scutt at Topshop jewellery (due in stores this month): the shoe clips, chain belts, chokers, and long earrings injected fun into the outfits.

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DAVID KOMA Reviewed by LAURA SMITH Above all things, it was the common dot that stylistically dominated David Koma’s cool and quirky A/W collection. Inspired by avant-garde Japanese artist Yayoi Kusama, he explored this key motif through texture, shape and pattern to dazzling effect. Circular shapes pervaded the collection in a variety of sizes and forms. Black bodycon dresses were showered with flowing patent discs, leather capes and skirts were perforated with laser-cut holes and uniform dotted motifs were digitally printed onto black bodycon wool dresses. While the collection began in a sophisticated palette of blacks and nudes, Koma injected pops of red, turquoise, yellow and blue into circle prints, fur pompoms, collars and trims, (his use of coloured fur provided a twist on the key A/W11 trend.) Vivid digital face prints emerging from dotted motifs also gave outfits a quirky edge, enhancing the collection’s Pop Art feel. With his fun, sexy and playful line of wearable pieces, Koma proved he deserves all the hype and his celebrity fans including Rihanna, Beyonce, Kylie and Cheryl Cole. From his A/W collection alone, it definitely looks like the man who’s making pompoms and polka dots look cool will be spot on for autumn!

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ELLIOTT J FRIEZE Reviewed by LEANNE MILLIGAN

DESIGNERS REMIX – CHARLOTTE ESKILDSEN Reviewed by EMMA CUDAHY Designers Remix Signature is Charlotte Eskildsen’s exclusive new A/W11 line. Her new collection is very sophisticated and her main inspiration behind it all was the Palais Royal in Paris. The elaborate architecture is in contrast to the large striped columns in the courtyard which were designed by Daniel Buren. These are a deliberate statement about contemporary art vs. traditional art, which is Eskildsen’s main focus for her new line. The silhouettes are angular and asymmetrical, showing lots of leg, low necklines and open backs. The collection on show was more on the formal side, with a modern twist to the average pencil skirt and white blouse. However, included in the range were a few pieces which were very fun and bold, my personal favourite being the black and white checked harlem style trousers, teamed with a silk top. Eskildsen portrays a very feminine and classy style, which would appeal to many women.

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I was looking forward to Elliott’s A/W11 show following the success of his S/S11 show so off I popped into the Charing Cross Hotel venue where I was served some lovely champagne as we waited…and waited…and waited. But alas the wait was worth it as Elliott’s signature classic tailoring and signature colour palette shone through in a collection which consisted of tailored pieces constructed with a modern feel with 70s inspired silhouettes, high-waisted trousers, blouses, & floppy hats. His A/W palette combined shades of caffeine mixtures of Latte, Mochas & Espressos with shots of blues & yellows all enhancing the 70s theme yet keeping it modern. The collection focused on draped jersey, tailored corduroy, lambswool cocktail dresses, beige Mac trenchcoats, mens-style briefcases, velvet (key trend) in 2 piece suits and jacket style dresses (another trend), and my favourite piece – the long silver-grey satin dress. English heritage & the school look were present also in the collection with long grey school socks, polo neck dresses, & high-waisted skirts combined with white shirt and cravat. My sum up of the collection? Want, Want, WANT.


CARLOTTA ACTIS BARONE JAMES HILLMAN

FLORIAN JAYET

CARLOTTA ACTIS BARONE

FLORIAN JAYET

FLORIAN JAYET

Top 4 photos by CHRISTOPHER DADEY

FASHION MODE Reviewed by EMMA CUDAHY Upon arrival to the VFS venue for the Fashion Mode show, it was a major relief to be welcomed by a lovely glass of champagne. This for me, was the perfect start to a show. The three designers that were exhibiting their A/W11 lines were Florian Jayet, James Hillman and Carlotta actis Barone. I will start off by reviewing the wonderful Florian Jayet. Jayet’s is a French born designer who draws his inspiration from science and biological diagrams. The leather items in his line are meant to act as a ‘second skin’, and the exaggerated shoulders and hips are created to bring attention to the sculpted female figure. Jayet feels they are the most powerful areas on the female body. His A/W11 line is concentrated on colours such as browns, black and creams. Most of the collection is very fitted, with large shoulders and hips and helps creates a very womanly silhouette. James Hillman was born and raised in Jersey, and his major concerns with crude oil is what inspired his A/W collection. The collection was all black in colour, which he said is to represent the natural colour of crude oil. He learned that at different temperatures, crude oil produces different iterations and to demonstrate this, each fabric represents a different tier in the crude oil process. Hillman went for a very clean, sweeping look for a striking male silhouette. The items of clothing were classic, and very tight fitting. Hillman uses fabrics such as leather, woollen cashmere mixes and lightweight cottons. The collection was fairly basic, but elegant and full of class. For A/W11 Carlotta actis Barone based her collection on ethical issues, with the hope of delivering a message. This season her inspiration is formed from her concern with cruelty against animals, in particular seals. Barone uses the colours navy blue, white and red. The blue represents the sea, white is to represent the snow and ice, and red for violence. She uses faux fur in her designs to represent the seals. The collection is very creative and exciting. Ranging from leather jackets and trousers to stunning dresses teamed with faux fur accessories, Barone has designed a very exciting collection to suit anybody’s taste.


NOIR r e p or t FELDER FELDER

Illustrated by JULIET JACKMAN

Reviewed by LAURA GRANT-EVANS

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After a day of shows principally presenting grey tones on Friday, a trip to Felder Felder was what the fashion week doctor ordered and it seemed most of LFW agreed as there was quite the scrum on Northumberland Avenue to get into the show. After the bright colours the German identical twins sent down the catwalk in September, the A/W 2011 was slightly drearier with a palette of petrol, grey and midnight blue, but the digital prints that were such a success last season were ever present. The Transformation Collection was quoted as being inspired by ‘the freedom of nature’ with stiff images of owl feathers printed onto silks and canvas and the eisblume, a delicate flower that has the ability to live through a harsh winter frost, embellished in crystal and sequin on white and metallic shift dresses and blouses. The flowing goat feather shoulders and cuffs added an uncharacteristically sweet side to the label. These new additions show inklings towards a more grown-up look, heightened by the shapes of the strong tailored dress and floor length silk georgette gown. Daniela and Annette Felder couldn’t quite let go of their traditional rock-chick look and the trademark leggings and cropped biker jacket look was present but looked slightly awkward amongst the new softer aesthetic trying to break through. There were attempts to incorporate the gentler look with slick gold detailing on the uptown biker jacket and studded leather only making an appearance on the straps of an evening gown, which seemed appropriate so as not to diverge too far from the designers’ roots. The Transformation is a very apt name for the collection; the girls seem undecided whether to go full throttle for the grown-up look or to stick with their tough girl edge. Having said that, there were some truly wearable pieces that were presented in stunning surroundings. I will wait, as ever, with anticipation to see what the Felder Felder girls do next.


NOIR r e p o r t FYODOR GOLAN Reviewed by LAUREN HAWES Design duo Fyodor Podgorny and Golan Frydman aka Fyodor Golan, combined ancient western traditions with tribal rituals to create their A/W 2011 collection “Pagan Poetry”. Soft leather and silks were worked into skirts and high neck tops and matched with heavy sleeved cropped jackets and high-waisted trousers to convey a timeless opulent look. There was also a vast amount of detail and texture in many of the pieces; these were complimented by a palette of navy, nude and brown, which enhanced their chosen theme. The elongated silhouettes and floor length dresses embellished with ‘scarring’ well reflected the designers’ take on the modern, powerful and well respected woman.

GEORGIA HARDINGE Reviewed by LAUREN HAWES Claimed to be the one to watch this season, European designer Georgia Hardinge’s A/W11 Collection embodies empowerment through striking silhouettes that take inspiration from the macabre photography of Joel Peter Witkin and his concepts of death, disfigurement and destruction. Her pieces focus on shape in the form of body-con dresses, maxi dresses, capes, blazers and lace-up ankle boots in black, cream and grey. The models make up was also soft with nude lipstick, dark eyes and hair swept back into a bun. Although a muted colour palette was used, her designs did not lack detail. Many items included intricate prints and sheer fabrics to maintain an air of femininity amongst the dark unorthodox theme.

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HOLLY FULTON Reviewed by LEANNE MILLIGAN The ‘Kiss me Quick, Squeeze me Slow’ theme of the show was perfect for what paraded down the catwalk. Paying tribute to the powers of love, romance & the magic of seduction, Fulton was the designer who was always going to inject fun into our A/W wardrobes. Sumptuous textures were out in plentiful: bespoke hand-woven tweeds in Fulton’s signature bold yellow, ivory & black; velvet, snakeskins, Mongolian fur trims & of course embellished shift dresses. I am absolutely coveting the floor length leather & silk mix lips motif maxi dress (leather/silk mix = key A/W 11 trend) and the psychedelic ‘hand & gun’ prints on the palazzo pants were right up my street. This season Fulton experimented with tweed with Coco Chanel’s time spent in Fulton’s native Scotland with the Duke of Westminster being her inspiration. The opening tweed number was a beautifully constructed bumblebee black-and-yellow tweed flippy skirt with a beaded trim shift top: a great expansion on Fulton’s design direction. Still in play were her Art Deco detailing on 60s silhouettes & as always, jewellery was an integral part of her collection; crystal embellishments that included coral fringing, mirrored pieces, clutch bags in an array of colours & materials and I had a fashion aneurism when the velvet dress with neck embellishment hit my viewline. Fulton’s architectural pieces were also still present with the coat with disembodied lips sipping from the Empire State Building being a highlight & the floor length silk Empire State Building blue & white dress with fur bag & off-shoulder white & grey outline of skyscrapers dress keeping the signature Fulton themes. She did however add a bit of rock ‘n’ roll with her studded leather pants which I thought was a great addition to a collection which focused on easy-to-wear but luxurious with a feel of contemporary elegance.

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JASPER GARVIDA Reviewed by HEATHER B Photographs by CLAUDIA MORONI If beautiful, statement dresses are your thing, then this collection is for you elegant with an edge. Jasper has combined femininity with toughness, no piece evokes this more than the red ‘Firefly Dress’ seen right. Feisty red with the amour-like top half it blends into a long flowing skirt which softens the toughness of the woman wearing it. An oriental influence is apparent through much of the collection, especially in the silhouettes and necklines but the subtleness of this makes it interesting. The colour palette was right up my street but with scarlet, deep blue, vermilion, charcoal and cream, there really is something for everyone. What I loved about this collection was the edge and the wearability. From show stopping dresses that wouldn’t be out of place on the red carpet, to more wearable ones, fantastic for an evening out, injecting the woman wearing it, with confidence. Finally, the keyhole print intrigued me, sparking my imagination... Who is the mysterious girl behind the keyhole and what is the story behind the people in the circle print? Make up your own story, a gift from Jasper.

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J. JS LEE Reviewed by DANIELA MOROSINI

JACOB KIMMIE Reviewed by EMMA CUDAHY Jacob Kimmie’s inspiration for his new collection, were photographs taken by various different photographers and paintings done by Giovanni Battista Tiepolo. He described his line as a protest against mainstream fashion. Kimmie portrayed this very well. His collection seemed very unusual and had a very gothic feel to it. The theme of Martyr is carried out throughout the entire collection, with a lot of transparent panels, black head scarves, studded leather, and tattooed body suits. The styles are very different, and therefore it was very exciting to see what came next. The collection is unique and Kimmie was successful in ensuring the line was not in any way similar to mainstream fashion.

Jackie Lee likes minimalism. In fact, she’s made it her mission to “bring minimalism to Milan, New York and Paris”. When you’re this sharp at pattern cutting, you can get away with a whole lot of white space. A subverted feminine silhouette was championed this season at J JS Lee’s salon show, with a combination of sharp jackets attached to the front of slinkier dresses, and contrasting hemlines juxtaposed nicely with the sleek tailoring. A refined palette of white and lighter silvers and greens kept a foot firmly away from being trend-led, so don’t expect to see high street copies of Jackie’s work. However, the J. Js Lee woman is sharp, sleek and self-assured.

JOANNE HYNES AND HELEN STEELE Reviewed by GILDA ORRU There is nothing that hectic London Fashion Week reporters need more than a sugar rush to help surviving the running between one runway and the other! As we get in the Vauxhall catwalk room, we all are kids again, sucking on our lollipops and feeding on fizzy powder from a plastic tube. Looking around, the public is a mixture of artists and fashionistas, taking the show to an exclusive level. Once the show starts, the collection presents itself as incredibly multifaceted, sometimes reaching randomness. Big colourful furry coats and feathers are abundant, alternating with super-pretty trapeze dresses that bring to the catwalk the prints we had tasted in the invites. Because girls just wanna have fun! When the music changes from a cheerful disco-techno to a rock beat, hypnotic prints come back again in leggings and tees combo, this time alternating with a goddess mother-nature type of dresses worn by models with tree hair and wooden Beijing hats. The footwear is a mix of exaggerated wood platforms and colourful leather flats and boots. I don’t get the multicoloured sequence and printed silk combination, but I adore the use of red velvet here. re also still present with the coat with disembodied lips sipping from the Empire State Building being a highlight & the floor length silk Empire State Building blue & white dress with fur bag & off-shoulder white & grey outline of skyscrapers dress keeping the signature Fulton themes. She did however add a bit of rock ‘n’ roll with her studded leather pants which I thought was a great addition to a collection which focused on easy-to-wear but luxurious with a feel of contemporary elegance.

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JOHN ROCHA Reviewed by LAURA SMITH With his dramatic and captivating use of layering and textures, John Rocha’s sensuous A/W11 collection was a visual treat for the eyes. Inspired by Neil Young’s Harvest Moon, the paintings of Pierre Soulages and stark Icelandic landscapes his main focus lay in breathtaking texture and form. The show began with models cocooned in layers of black, from gothic gowns to cosy fur-trimmed capes rendered in intricately woven, pulled, looped and folded materials. Heavily worked tweeds, pressed wool, furs and textured shearling contrasted with lace and lightweight silk, as sheer skirts and trousers billowed from under heavier layers. Rocha’s typical palette of black, nudes and brown was shot through with splashes of crimson, which bled through multi-tiered nude dresses. His tailoring was soft, feminine and fluid, with supple asymmetric hemlines adding volume to beautifully crafted coats and dresses. Echoing the collection’s Nordic traveller theme, models were pale with red lips and cute braided and twisted hair tucked under huge, elaborate headpieces of knotted and draped black wool. Rocha’s detailed texturing emphasised his exceptional talent for balancing strength and tenderness and his dark, dramatic and lavish collection looked like a very cool, cosy and elegant antidote to a chilly autumn/winter season.

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JULIAN J SMITH Reviewed by LAURA CAVANAGH

KRYSTOF STROZYNA

An extremely sharp and gothic collection, a recurrent theme of the AW11 season appeared in Smith’s presentation. As Charlie Le Mindu’s first piece was reminiscent of De Palma’s Carrie, Smith seems to have gotten his inspiration from horror films such as The Blair Witch Project and Sleepy Hollow. A patchwork of dark colours and multiple fabrics adorned most of the pieces which had ranging hemlines and silhouettes. Models wore buckled boots and platinum wigs with purple lips enhancing the sci-fi element of the collection. Julian also did a short lap of the catwalk himself, pausing only briefly to kiss a coy Beth Ditto who has used him for various pieces of stagewear before.

KRYSTOF STROZYNA Reviewed by LAURA GRANT-EVANS Illustrated by JULIET JACKMAN Polish born Krystof is known for his ability to mix structuring with a soft feminine touch and this season’s collection was no exception. A packed Freemason’s including Kimberly Walsh of Girl’s Aloud fame, was present to see how he had built on his acclaimed collection from last season. The show started reasonably futuristic with mini dresses cinched in at the waist, topped off with silver wrist and ankle cuffs. However, a master of colour blocking, Krystof bucked the grey trend that had been accruing over the first couple of days of LFW and threw in vibrant accents of petrol blue and turquoise juxtaposed with fantastic oranges as the show progressed. The base colour of the signature panelling in his frocks was a dull tan, made resplendent by tangerine splashes. Black shift dresses were given a rehash with hot pink sashes and sequinned sleeves and high collared shirts in highlighter blue offered an alternative to the dresses. Whilst exceptionally beautifully and easy to wear, the whole collection seemed relatively safe. Next season, I would love to see Krystof really push the boat out of his comfort zone and experiment with shapes and textures.

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NOIR r e p o r t LOUISE AMSTRUP Reviewed by LAURA CAVANAGH Amstrup’s ‘rebel inspired’ collection kicked off Saturday’s line up at LFW. The pieces were bold and controlled using this season’s colours of blacks, dusty greys and acid yellows. Among them a grey wool coat with leather panelling particularly stood out as well as the signature gangster hat which added to the rebellious style. Amstrup’s models wore dark eyes and vibrant lips in shades of plum and pink which keep the look simple yet elegant.

MASHA MA Reviewed by DANIELA MOROSINI Only at Masha Ma’s AW11 show would red patent thigh high boots sit happily alongside soft, flowing shapes. Once again, Masha was ready to push the envelope for the upcoming season. Astoundingly structural, almost inverted, jackets in icy tones of white and silver floated down the runway next to the flowing shapes of their hemlines. Think secretary chic; models had their hair pulled back in slick buns, but with slits in their skirts and those boots, it was definitely tongue in cheek. Longer hemlines matched the sharp tailoring in dusty colours with a subtle feminine silhouette.

LAKO BUKIA Reviewed by LAUREN HAWES The highly anticipated A/W 2011 collection form Lako Bukia proved yet again that she is able to produce inspirational yet wearable designs for the modern woman. Like many designers this season, her “CHOXA” collection heavily featured leather trousers, shirts and skirts in a palette consisting of brown, grey, pink, red and black. Her pieces included a grey leather short jumpsuit, chiffon blouses with leather collars and a red wine dress with metallic embellishments for the finale. A further focus of her collection was bullet like decorations on pockets, belts and boots. Finally, as with all her collections, she produced her signature heels along with black leather boots. Overall, an impressive collection that deserved every bit if the hype it was given.

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MARIA GRACHVOGEL Review & Photograph by HEATHER B From the moment I received my Maria Grachvogel, collectable notebook invite, I was filled with anticipation. Combine this with the fabulous location of The Lancaster Ballroom at The Savoy, it already promised to be something pretty special and believe me when I say, it did not disappoint. Once inside the decadent ballroom, beneath the beautiful chandeliers, I took my seat on the FROW and eagerly awaited the hush... Then, what can only be described as pure luxury, glided down the catwalk. Fluid fabrics and effortless drapery to relaxed tailoring, all with Maria’s architectural approach to the female form. Her magic pants continue to create every womans desired shape, working with the female form to slim the hips and elongate the legs, as if my magic! Rich textures with fabrics such as silk and cashmere tweed, make this collection all the more desirable. There are many statement pieces, however, the star of the show for me was the ethereal prints. With inspiration coming from dark fairy tales, she has produced individual fantastical artwork using a sumptuous colour palette of steels, winter whites and subtle jewel hues of amethyst and sapphire. For me Maria is not only a greatly talented designer, she is an artist whose collection for A/ W11 has yet again provided glamorous and timeless pieces to be adored.


MICHAEL VAN DER HAM Reviewed by EMMA CUDAHY After the long wait outside, again it was the perfect start to a show, a much deserved glass of champagne to accompany me while I waited for the show to begin. This was Van Der Ham’s second standalone show, and he did not disappoint. Van Der Ham’s main inspiration is the silhouettes from past era’s with the main concern to come up with something which uses the best from each era to create something original and timelessly elegant. A/W11 also brings with it the introduction of knitwear. All items of clothing of course, having the main Van Der Ham twist; no two sleeves are the same. I personally feel this keeps the collection fun and ensures that it stands out. The collection is playful, but still sophisticated. Van Der Ham has yet again reminded us of the intelligent charm he is much admired for.


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MARIOS SCHWAB Reviewed by GILDA ORRU

MEADHAM KIRCHHOFF Reviewed by GILDA ORRU In the Topshop space the show starts in respectful silence for Meadham Kirchhoff. Accompanied by suave French music, the audience is left alone in front of what looks like a tribute to the designer’s past work. Faded photos, candles, messages that belong to arts and fashion: “Everything I am is borrowed” “I am a lie that tells the truth.” Once the atmosphere is touchable, the unexpected Psycho soundtrack gives everyone a shiver. A group of 25 models march out at the same time, creating a very unusual catwalk, as well as possibly the fastest ever! Confusing sleepless reporters and driving the photographers mental, the models quickly show off a look that seems a mix of Bavarian style and Catholic School uniforms. Red, black and white are the only colours of the collection. Peasant blouses under chunky salopettes and short trousers. Shearling coats on ruffled cotton skirts. Modest shirts with Peruvian embroidery, old fashioned big underpants and binary hair locks. But, hey! They are gone. Ed and Ben come out to get their deserved ovation and we are all left wanting more.

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There is a strict balance uniting two sides of Marios Schwab’s collection. Leather and wool become dress; structure and floatiness become woman. The vibration of the music has a sensuous feeling at the beginning; then builds to a crescendo that becomes craziness. The fashion reflects this. After the initial sleek looks where the harness straps that hold together the garments almost draw the model’s silhouette and high neck shirts are rocked up by oxblood leather trousers; when the music explodes, we wow at puffy coats and floaty silks. The structure remains, always in the most vibrant colours, offering a vision of beautifully tailored dresses, enriched with pearl details along the neckline, the bust and the arms. Marios Schwab gives a lesson on craft and the magic of details. Superb.


TZE GOH

KIRSTY WARD

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ONES TO WATCH Reviewed by LAURA CAVANAGH This season, Kirsty Ward, Anja Mlakar, Sara Bro-Jorgensen and Tze Goh showcased their collections on the Ones to Watch catwalk. The former and the latter designers particularly caught my eye. Ward is one of a growing number of fresh new designersto really showcase jewellery in her collection. Sheer autumnal colours were layered with stunning oversized necklaces and cut out panels. Goh’s pieces were slightly simpler with structured dresses and coats in shades of blue, black and grey. A favourite for me was the dusty grey cape. Many noted that he could have done more to the collection but I applaud the fact that he kept from over designing and produced pieces that I could actually see myself wearing.

OSMAN Reviewed by LAUREN HAWES Following tradition, Osman’s latest A/W11 collection showcases his love for dressing intelligent and stylish women. He uses luxury winter fabrics such as cashmere, nappa leather, alpaca wool and quilted brocade to create classic clean lines and sharp tailoring with a modern twist. Most of his pieces as always are simple and elegant, including floor length coats, tailored trousers and softly structured dresses in various colour combinations: cream, red, turquoise, black, pink, green and not forgetting Osman’s signature blue. His view that everybody is ready and willing to wear more colour is well reflected in this collection. The designer complements his collection with his signature footwear including peep-toe boots with a block heel and black heel loafers. As with many designers this season, he uses fur in many of his pieces to create a classic and luxurious winter look. Finally, as with his last collection, he has created a look that allows each piece to stand independently with no need for over the top accessories, hair or make-up.

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PAM HOGG Reviewed by LAURA SMITH One thing you’re guaranteed on a Pam Hogg runway is that the queen of catsuits will give us a little bit of cheek (literally!). For her A/W collection, the cult designer threw two fingers up to conventional fashion, choosing instead to revel in her own world of avant-garde, punk rock, freak chic. The result was fearless, theatrical, completely bizarre and utterly entertaining. Against a massive LCD backdrop emitting flocking blackbirds and lightening bolts, models stomped down the runway in time to a rocking soundtrack. Hogg introduced some colour into her signature catsuits and skin-tight dresses, which were followed by patchwork-style fur coats, fitted military trenches and show-stopping, bulbous ball gowns. Hogg’s favoured bondage theme also reappeared in leather belt chokers and a black belted number, topped off with a taxidermied black crow headpiece. Along with his Doctor Who co-star Karen Gillan, Matt Smith was front row supporting model girlfriend Daisy Lowe, who ended the show in an extravagant gold gown with birds perched a top her intricately woven hairpiece. Paloma Faith, Jaime Winston, Siouxsie Sioux and Boy George were also there to witness a typically brilliant yet bonkers showcase from Hogg; who always refuses to conform, and never fails to entertain!

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PROPHETIK Reviewed by LAURA GRANT-EVANS Illustrated by JULIET JACKMAN Opening the proceedings at Vauxhall Fashion Scout this year was world-renowned sustainable fashion brand, Prophetik. Tennessee born designer, Jeff Garner’s ‘Artist Wonderment’ collection is inspired by the court of Louis XV where art became frivolous, which is prevalent in the ripped silks and organic velour of the dresses and suits that made their way down the catwalk. It was a blessing in disguise that I had got there early as Prophetik’s reputation for putting on a real spectacle seemed to precede them and the queue for the show stretched to the end of the street. The show opened in true theatrical form with a performance from virtuoso violinist, Analiza Ching, alongside award-winning British conductor and composer, Benjamin Ellin and his orchestra which

accompanied the first outfit, a simple white silk, floor-length gown. As the show progressed, the hemp skirts got thicker and the colours deeper. We were treated to plums, violets, a deep scarlet and burgundies. They were reminiscent of heavier period drama costumes but the colours gave the outfits an earthier feel which is in keeping with the ethics of Jeff Garner’s brand. Highlights included a quilted jacket made from a 100 year old southern quilt which was handed down by Jeff’s great grandmother, Lola and had lived as a bedspread throughout his childhood. This three quarter length jacket was softly coloured in pinks and blues and whilst it made for interesting viewing, it’s difficult to see many 21st century men wearing it. Having said that, the male models wearing the

jackets had a regal air about them and they were undoubtedly striking. The dresses were much more accessible even if only in a ‘I would love to have that in my wardrobe but would I actually wear it?’ way. A moss green empire line dress was one of my favourites, I think more to do with my love affair with Jane Austen rather than its fashion credentials. The final piece, however, is a beauty regardless of which time period it relates to, confirmed by the audible gasps of the fashionistas gathered in Freemasons. Ostrich feathers had been hand stitched onto the bodice and full skirt made of silk and the whole ensemble seemed to float down the catwalk. Every girl in the room appeared to be making mental notes for their dream wedding dress.

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TODD LYNN

Reviewed by LEANNE MILLIGAN

REVELATION:REVOLUTION was the theme of the Todd Lynn show which took place in the BFC showspace at Somerset House. With the sheer commercialism & materialism that was surrounding the BFC showspace, inside Todd Lynn’s collection focused on revolt – from the French revolution of the 18th century to disorder in today’s global climate. Periods of enlightenment which lead citizens to take their future in their own hands and create change – aggressively. With this in mind the models took to the catwalk and presented us with a dim view of the future with fur & leather collars which covered the face (a nod to an apocalyptic future and disease ridden land); dark colours invaded the catwalk to a rocking apocalyptic film inspired soundtrack. Futuristic androgyny was a key trend throughout with masculine shapes & tailoring prevailing consistently in the collection alongside next seasons exaggerated necklines, long coats (with high structured collars), leather jackets up to the neck and back of the head, cowl high necks (another key A/W11 trend), white fur (key trend), draped angles structure, long leather structured gloves (which are on my A/W11 list), Todd Lynn signatures of black leather, neutrals, blood red…all emphasising a dim view of the end of the world. The shoulder detailing is a massive trend this season; at Todd Lynn shoulders were softened with curved construction, or obscured completely with habit-like collars veiling the face. The stand-out pieces were the long coats with exaggerated neck & side detailing, battered tender skin jackets, the Bonaparte coat in double stretch felt with black leather = a A/W11 must-have, the lead leather & lead wool rib waistcoat & matching trousers (note the mixed materials once again = key trend). I wanted to grab the 4th look of Hochecoat in Ecru double stretch felt for the LFW weather but my inner rock chick was LOVING the leather skinny leggings with black wool polo neck – yes people, beware, the polo-neck is back!


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PAUL COSTELLOE Reviewed by DANIELA MOROSINI Irish born fashion veteran Paul Costelloe doesn’t disappoint. He may have shown for more seasons than you’ve had hot dinners, but Costelloe somehow always manages to remain relevant and fresh. Perhaps it’s because he constantly reinvents classics, but Paul & Co always manage to land on the right side of cool and not veer into try-hard territory. For his AW11 collection, we were treated to a veritable feast of muted autumnal shades (mustard, burnt orange, umber) but with flashes of metallic tweed. Paired with slightly triangular flame coloured hair styles for his army of models, there was more than whiff of the 1960’s about the collection. There was, of course, Costelloe’s trademark tailoring, with sharp, nipped in jackets and bodices of dresses, juxtaposed with more modern convex skirts. An important look from Costelloe this season would be the power of a simple, well cut dress; demure in neckline and in its classic nature, but flirty in length. Instead of large amounts of thigh-flashing, models covered up in thick black tights paired with some particularly gorgeous nude patent heels.

ZIAD GHANEM Reviewed by LEANNE MILLIGAN ….that was my thoughts to the opening number: speechless. With catwalks playing it a little bit safe show-wise as well as collection-wise for next season, along comes Ziad Ghanem literally with a bang and two fingers up to every fashion restriction & convention known to man. You could hear the buzz in the Vauxhall Fashion Scout building in anticipation of the show: even Boy George was taking photos of the collection. As opening numbers go, this was the best one this season – something the cheers & gasps from the audience will attest to - as a beautiful but garishly made-up model used burlesque feathers & literally grew taller & taller before shooting down the catwalk. With the terrifying accompanying music, it was rather quite frightening. The video game ‘Silent Hill’ inspired the many horror themes & characters who took to the catwalk. This was not just about the clothes, it was about the show. The music consisted of a mix of Marilyn Manson’s “The Beautiful People”, an orchestrated version of “Personal Jesus” and even The Apprentice show theme tune! Ziad chose a surprising range of models; boys as girls, transgenders, a possessed ballet dancer, & a large lady who unveiled herself before walking (I was surprised her breasts didn’t manage to burst out of the ballgown she was wearing). You could see just how much thought had went into the collection which consisted of silk chiffon free flowing gowns – displayed beautifully by the ballet dancer on her points spinning down (and back up) the catwalk, sensual silhouettes were in play with ruffled crepe, & delicate brocades which emphasised the female form whilst the black lace, corsetry and embellishment added darkness to the collection. I LOVED the see-through long mermaid tail black embellished dress & the tie-dye blue chiffon crepe maxi but my stand-out image from the show was the corpse-like bride & groom who took to the catwalk showering us all in confetti. Thee show that everybody will be raving about for some time to come.

UNA BURKE Reviewed by LAURA CAVANAGH Una Burke completed her masters in fashion artefact and her latest collection embodies this completely by showing art pieces that can be worn as opposed to fashion pieces that are designed specifically for the catwalk. The collection is very conceptual, showing sculptured leather accessories through dark and almost worrying film. Burke has previously said that her work is based on how people build up emotional barriers when subjected to trauma and this collection was reportedly inspired by the physical awkwardness and almost

cumbersome

nature

of

prosthetic limbs. Actors wore leather, buckled accessories reminiscent of entrapment

devices

and

ranging

from bracelets and neckwear to full body armour. An overall interesting collection which has a strong theme running throughout and almost tries to mask the idea of human vulnerability with art

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How to work this trend: If you’re bold, mix different hues of the same colour. If you’re a little more reserved, use a pop of colour as a tantalising accent in a handbag, necklace or scarf.

F MEADHAM KIRCHOF DAVID KOMA

TREND S F O R

A/W 2011

U

Threatening to overshadow all this colour was a return to the darker side with a push towards a gothic trend. At Julien MacDonald there was lace and lots of draping, playing with textures and Topshop Unique played on a gothic Minnie Mouse image. Even Giles, who has been known in the past for his novelty collections, created a more austere, disciplined look, focusing on textures such as lace, velvet and sheer fabrics.

PAM HOGG

ZIAD GHANEM JASPER GARVIDA JULIEN MCDONALD

JOHN ROCHA

TOPSHOP UNIQUE

GILES

OSMAN

nder the drizzly, grey skies of London during LFW, moods were lifted with more bright colours in what seemed to be the brightest season to date. Laura Grant-Evans reports…

NEW GOTHIC

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KRYSTOF STROZYNA

AQUASCUTUM PAUL SMITH

KRYSTOF STROZYNA

Colour

Every colour imaginable was shown on the catwalk, proving that SS 2011’s trend of colour pop shows no signs of going anywhere come autumn. Brilliant turquoise blended with bold blues; over-indulgent oranges and ravishing reds were amongst the shades we saw. I must say, red came out top with it being used as a great accent to a neutral palette as in Krystof Strozyna or on knee length dresses and trenches at Paul Smith, Aquascutum and Meadham Kirchhoff.

Photo by CLAUDIA MORONI

How to work this trend: Use black as your base colour and then layer up the textures…lace, silks, velvet, feathers. Accessorise with deep red lips.


How to work this trend: For night time splendour, crystallise your prints and for daytime cool, mix prints keeping the colour base the same.

HOLLY FULTON

Another trend that showed no sign of waning was digital prints with young fashion designers showing off their tech-savvy minds and creating digitalised versions of animal print or anything they could get their hands on. Giles Deacon once again stepped up to this trend and showed a dramatic print based on The Execution of Lady Jane Grey, Holly Fulton adorned her New York skyline prints with pearls, metal and pleated leather and Aminika Wilmont showed a print inspired by animal hides.

LOUISE GRAY LOUISE GRAY

AMINAKA WILMONT

GILES LOUISE GRAY

DAVID KOMA

DIGITAL PRINTS

It’s time to get your knitting needles out! Keeping cosy this autumn will be made easy as homespun returns. Louise Gray mixed up colours and knitting patterns whilst Pringle of Scotland kept it neutral. Christopher Kane used crocheting as a statement, with belted blankets taking centre stage and crochet-printed leather meaning this trend is anything but something to be worn by your Granny!

R A E W T I N K Y K CHUN How to work this trend: If you’re feeling daring, throw colours and different knitting patterns together but use belts to cinch in the waist and a bold colour to avoid looking ancient.

Images collated by HEATHER B

CHRISTOPHER

KANE

RCHOFF MEADHAM KI OTLAND PRINGLE OF SC

LOUISE GRAY

The TRENDS to look out for come AUTUMN

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ust bought some lovely brights for spring? Well don’t panic! This is just a glimpse to the future as we look at beauty trends for A/W11. Heather B reports...

ACH E P N M U T AU

Spotted: Silver highlights. Painted solid on eyelids at Krystof Strozyna, silver glittery sheen applied to inner corners at Carlotta Gherzi for Sado and silver cupids bows at John Rocha

ERZI FOR S

JOHN ROCHA

A/W 20 11

Peach may come as a surprise for A/W but it’s a fab Autumnal shade that’s a welcome change from the usual black smokey eye. Use a bronzy peach as seen at Michael Van Der Ham to make blue eyes pop!

CARLOTTA GH

WATCH

BEAUTY REPORT

Moving away from the matte skin of last A/W, we are again reminded,that illuminator is a girl’s best friend! Apply sparingly (a little will go a long way) to the tops of cheek bones, underneath the eyebrow arch, down the centre of the nose and the cupids bow for glowing radiance.

MICRO TREND- SILVER KRYSTOF STROZYNA

M MICHAEL VAN DER HA TIK HE PROP PROPHETIK M N MICHAEL VA DER HA

J

ONES TO

shows. Use a red lipstick with a hint of moisture, apply with a lipbrush and use a matching red lip pencil to define edges. If feeling brave wear yours with a black smokey eye, great with the ‘New Gothic’ trend.

THE DARK SIDE

94

SEXY SHE EN

CARLOTTA GHERZI FOR SADO

HOLLY FULTON

T HOT SOME LIKE IRed hot lips were seen across many of the

Achieve gothic chic lips with a deep, nearly black, purple lip pencil - fill in the lips and then liberally apply a deep dark purple lip gloss. Seen at Holly Fulton & Maria Grachvogel

ADO

GOLAN FYODOR

JASPER GARVIDA

otos Jasper Garvida ph NI RO MO DIA AU by CL


Slicked back hair was key at ‘Ones to Watch’. Already a favourite of many, seen worn by Cheryl Cole and Grace Woodward

Something to suit every mood was seen at the shows! Great news for A/W11

ONES TO WATCH

PROPHETIK

Sleek roots running down to frizzy curls were spotted across the shows. Straighten the roots, crimp or curl the ends and slick the roots down slightly with a gel to achieve this look

SLEEKED BACK

LAKO BURKO

allen into a rut of just tying your long hair back? Well you’ll be spoilt for choice with all trends spilling off the catwalks at the A/W11 shows. Here is a sneeky peek of inspiration. Heather B reports...

ONES TO WATCH

A/W 20 11

French, fishtail or your basic pigtail plaits looks like anything goes next season!

ONES TO WATCH

HAIR REPORT F

JOHN ROCHA

LAKO BURKO

MARIA GRACHVOGEL

Buns, twists, rolls are all on trend for A/W11, just keep it sleek as seen at Jasper Garvida.

DUO TEXTURES PROPHETIK PROPHETIK

BRAIDS LAKO BURKO

LAKO BURKO

JASPER GARVIDA

JASPER GARVIDA

JASPER GARVIDA photo by CLAUDIA MORONI CHRISTOPHER LAWRENCE

SLEEK SEXY UPDOS

FRIZZ V S SLICK 95


CARLOTTA ACTIS BARONE photo by CHRISTOPHER DADEY

LOUISE GRAY

LOUISE GRAY

GRAPHIC

Graphic and colourful make-up was worn at the ‘Louise Gray’ show, complimenting the collection perfectly. Each model wore their own individual pattern of dots, while the same colour palette kept uniformity simple but incredibly effective!

LOUISE GRAY

NOIR r e p or t

96

ADAPTABLE

c Eyeshado w image - H ges and Ma rence’ ima

Back stage at the ‘Fashion Mode’ show, Make-up Artist for AOFM ‘Jade Hunka’ took me from smart casual to evening make-up by smoking up the eyes and applying a deeper lipstick. Jades attitude to Make-up is... “There are no rules when it comes to make-up! It’s all about how you apply it and if you don’t like it... it comes off easily! Just wipe it off and start again - have fun with it!”

CRAIG LA WRENCE

BACKSTAG

N E AT FASHIO

MODE

BACKSTAGE AT FA

‘Craig Law

SHION MODE

Eye sockets at ‘Craig Lawrence’ were given structure with a strong contemporary line, while no mascara kept the look graphic. Make-up Artist ‘Gemma Smith-Edhouse’ at Streeters, said the inspiration came from the clothes, rather than creating characters. Working closely with stylist ‘Katie Shillingford’, Gemma designed a look to compliment the collection itself. Make-up was structured but with a slightly unfinished feel due to the crumbling effect, of the paint on the eyes says Gemma. Models were kept looking young & fresh by only using concealer where needed as a base and bright neon orange was used to POP against the dark blue garments.

EATHER B.

DESIGNERS


NOIR r e p o r t

CARLOTTA ACTIS BARONE photo by CHRISTOPHER DADEY

BACKSTAGE AT FASHION MODE

PAINT

Report by HEATHER B.

Fashion Mode backstage images by CLAUDIA MORONI

BACKSTAGE AT FASHION MODE

I spoke to ‘Maria Papadopoulou’ AOFM’s curator for the show, about the inspiration behind the character designed for ‘Florian Jayet’... “They are alien like creatures. The face has been given a plastic looking surface using shine. The brows have been defined and the face structure contoured. Once the hair is finished, silver strips of paper are applied from the hair onto the face” Simply out of this world! For more info on AOFM visit: www.aofmakeup.com

CREATIVE

FLORIAN JAYET photo by CHRISTOPHER DADEY

E AT FASH BACKSTAG

ION MODE

CREATIVITY was in abundance backstage at the ‘Fashion Mode’ show! AOFM (Academy of Freelance Make-up) Pro Team were hard at work painting faces, applying huge white eyelashes, sparkling glitter, crystals to lips and silver claw like paper strands from hair to face! As a Make-up Artist and Graphic Designer myself, this is the kind of Make-up Artistry I LOVE!

97


NOIR r e p or t Prophetik on… SUSTAINABLE FASHION

Q: Why is sustainable fashion Q: What pieces should every

Julien MacDonald on… MAKING AN ENTRANCE

Q:

What are your tips on making an entrance at a party?

A: Turn up with a supermodel such as Natasha Lara Stone.

Poly

or

important to you?

woman have in her wardrobe?

A:

A: A beautiful ball gown that

Sustainable fashion is vital for the future generations in the concept that consumerism will never be curved. Our current societal status has created an addiction cycle to product, marketing, and purchasing that is very strong at driving the desire of “things” that one does not truly need. Therefore the task is even more important, to create a paradigm shift in fashion, in manufacturing of goods in an ethical and sustainable manner to avoid the

births the spirit of the princess that has been buried deep within after years of society attempting to make the woman more masculine instead of celebrating the beautiful femininity that defines the boldness and uniqueness of a lady, thus creating the perfect scene to allow men to be gentlemen again, enabling them to treat a woman with the utmost respect and dignity celebrating her rare beauty and gift.

FASHION 101: Q:

What are your showstopping outfits of choice?

A: Anything that sparkles. Q: How would you describe the ‘Julien MacDonald’ girl?

A: Fun, intelligent, glamorous and a world traveller.

Q:

Who is the most stylish person you know?

A:

Elle Macpherson, Bianca Jagger, Olivia Palermo, Naomie Harris…

Q: Style is… A: Personal,

challenging, fun…

98

controversial,

negative impact on the earth and in nature. Otherwise our rivers will catch fire again as the Ohio River did back in the 80’s with all the oil residue from the industrial plants. We should strive to gain local community production, however no one wants waste in their backyard, so then what happens to all the waste? It ends up in someone else’s backyard that charges a small fee, then it creates a domino effect until one day there is no green left... but what if the waste smells like roses and biodegrades in a day? Then everyone can put waste in their own yard and even create more growth by fertilizing their own soil and actually spending less in the long run and end up drinking Mint Juleps on their front porch.

Q:

How can woman achieve a glamorous look on a budget with sustainable fashion?

A: Patience is a virtue... discover

a piece of sustainable fashion that connects and save up for it, rather than ask fashion designers to take short cuts in production and quality to make a beautiful piece of art cheaper or affordable. Nix the Starbucks and you got yourself a new sustainable dress each month on the savings and there will be much less impact on the environment and on your body.

Q: Who is the most stylish woman you know?

A: The pregnant woman. Her energy exudes life and love and


JEFF GARNER - PROPHETIK

London designers give NOIR their fashion tips and advice to keep us all looking stylish.

A DV I C E & T IPS FRO M LO N D O N D E S I G N E R S therefore she willingly pursues her own fashion and identity versus the trends of the day driven by marketing.

Q: Style is: A: The essence

of self. It defines what the soul is desiring to say. Speak loudly and boldly and never look back, blazing the path of living in the moment and the adventurous soul of the unknown.

David Longshaw on‌ PATTERN & PRINT

Q:

What inspires you when designing pattern & prints?

A: Each season I create a short illustrated story. I then transform the illustrations into prints - some

times I might take an aspect of the illustration and repeat it in to a pattern. Other times I use the whole illustration and scale it up from the A4 drawing to 1metre or larger and have it digitally printed on to fabric. Some prints I keep in their entirety as much as possible so the image is clear- others I cut in to.

DAVID LONGSHAW

Compiled by LEANNE MILLIGAN

Q: What should women keep

in mind when buying pattern & prints?

A: You have to be comfortable

wearing the print - the whole point of print and wearing it should be to have fun - to wear something more interesting than just a plain piece. You can be bold with them.

99


NOIR r e p or t

Q: Can you mix them? A: It depends - you have to consider if they’ll work together. Maude goes for clashing prints to draw attention to herself but somehow it works.

Q:

Who are some of the most stylish women you know?

A: My girlfriend - but then she’s

a fashion designer as well so I can’t take credit for that. &

IRWIN & JORDEN

Maude the fictional fabric mouse (Editor-in-Chief MAUDEZINE) I created at St Martins - she has an amazing eye and no fear when it comes to dressing she’s like Isabella Blow, Daphne Guinness, Alan Bennett, Anna Piagi and a bag lady all rolled in to one.

Q:

Expert tips on how to dress for a party?

A: Wear my dresses, trousers, vests... Basically anything I’ve designed... Alternatively - just have fun, dress up: a lot of people wear similar clothing for day& evening - but it’s more fun to dress for the occasion.

Kirsty Ward on… ACCESSORIES

my own making, it’s made from lots of large gold eyelets all strung together with chain and any other gold coloured baubles I could find - it saves any boring outfit.

Irwin & Jordan on… RED CARPET GLAMOUR

Q:

What is of elegance?

your

definition

A:

Timeless Red Carpet; glowing skin, glossy hair, red lipstick and some vintage diamonds earrings.

Q:

What is the best thing to wear to a black tie?

A:

White tux trouser suit, like our S/S11 one. Cool alternative to the black dress.

Q:

Q: What would be your best tip

A:

A:

Q: A wedding? A: I love a

Q:

Q: What items should every girl

A:

A:

Q:

Q:

What accessories should every girl own?

A huge decorative necklace to dress up plain/ shit clothes

Q:

What are favourite pieces?

A:

your

own

I have loads of quite large and chunky jewellery which I love but I always seem to find myself drawn to certain pieces more than others. One of the necklaces I like to wear is one of

100

for wearing accessories?

Be brave and stand out rather than be boring and predictable, have fun with more unconventional items. Where do you source the inspirations for your collections? Trips to hardware shops, looking through old random books, finding old photos from jumble sales.

Who or what has influenced your style the most?

hat. Victoria Grant has some amazing creations, she made my hat for my wedding. have in her closet?

Superga pumps, J Brand jeans, James Perse tees and an Irwin and Jordan tailored jacket and flatcap. What of style?

A: Perhaps Pat Bucher as I do A: like a large earring or two.

is

your

definition

Style is Graceful and elegant with a timeless appeal.


NOIR r e p o r t

“An ELEGANT item can look TRENDY or EDGY or TACKY depending on the manner of the PERSON wearing it”

Tata Naka… on ELEGANCE

Q:

What is your definition of elegance?

A:

Elegance is an attitude. It is a way of being; how you carry yourself and reflects in everything you do, not just your clothing or which brand you are wearing. An “elegant item” can look trendy or edgy or tacky depending on the manner of the person wearing it.

Q:

What items should every woman have in her closet?

A: One pair of crazy, beautiful

shoes, a little black dress, a great bag and statement real jewellery.

Q:

What is the key to choosing a Little Black Dress? A: Good cut and impeccable fit and a luxurious fabric – the rest depends on your personality.

Q:

Who is the most elegant woman you know?

A:

This is not an age of elegance as we would think of it so our idea of elegance goes back to Jackie Kennedy and Wallis Simpson and more recently Carolyn Bessette Kennedy.

Q:

What accessories should every woman aspire to own?

A: TATA NAKA

A really beautiful, classic bag – whether it is a Chanel or a Hermes. And with age, some diamonds would be good!

101


Yang Du on…HAVING FUN WITH FASHION

Q:

Why should woman have fun with fashion?

A:

FELDER FELDER

Women who are having fun with fashion are most happy person.

Q:

What is the most fun item in your wardrobe?

A: It is hard to choose from, but I have some amazing collections of hats and toys from travelling I love.

Felder Felder on… BEING WILD

Q:

How would you describe the Felder Felder woman?

A:

She is definitely a woman! (not girly) and she likes to show different sides of her personality, sometimes feminine and sometimes more edgy.

Q:

Why should women be a little wild in their fashion choices?

A:

Because they will have more fun! And it is great when you are able to show different sides of your personality through fashion (as mentioned before).

Q:

Where do you source the inspiration for your collections?

A: Everywhere really, travelling, people, films...

Q: What is style? A: Style is being yourself. Q: Who is the most stylish

person you have met?

A: Susie Lau,

Beverley Jackson...

Q:

What are the wildest items in your wardrobe?

A:

You don’t want to know :)... I think vintage Michael Jackson leather jackets, Triumph bodices which are quite see through, and the goats hair coats from our AW10 show, which we have in black and one in white and we wear matching, just for fun!

Q:

Who most stylish?

do

you

find

A:

Q: What is the best piece of fashion advice you can share?

A: Listen to your heart!

102

YANG DU

Victoria Fernandez, who is a dear friend is so inspiring and stylish! Kate Moss is amazing, and Carine Roitfeld, of course.


Stephen Jones on‌HATS

Q:

What is of great style?

your

definition

A:

There isn’t one but boy, a great hat helps!

Q: I love hats because... A: They are a passport

to pleasure.

Q:

What hats does a woman need to own?

A: Getting up in, to take the

children to school, walking the dogs, lunch with friends, shopping, cocktails, dinner, dancing, seduction...

Q:

What does London mean to you?

A: Home and individuality. Q: Who is the most stylish person you have met?

STEPHEN JONES - Photograph by JUSTINE PHOTOGRAPHY

A: Lady Amanda Harlech.

103


Day in the life of a hat! Fri 18th Feb 2011

A r r r rg g g g h h h ! Running late! As I dash out of the flat wondering whether Im a tad over dressed, I remind myself I’m going to the Savoy and happily leg it to the tube. On the way however, it became apparent that I stood out. Allow me to explain, I LOVE hats and my passion is fuelled by my milliner friend Abbie at ‘designsbyabbie.com’, whose creation I had chosen to wear that day. Beautiful, bright fushia and bespokely designed to match the dress I was wearing. And thus brings me to why Friday was ALL about the hat! From the lovely gentleman cleaning the street, who yelled “Nice hat! Going anywhere nice?”, to the crazy guy preaching politics and dancing, while playing the tambourine on the tube (just when you think you stand out...) who said “Goodbye Madam”. Not forgetting the guy on the bicycle who shouted “You’ve won the prize for the best hat - Congratulations!”. It was clear that the hat was a hit. At the Savoy for Maria Grachvogel the hat drew admiring glances and

104

bagged me a front row seat! Later entering the gates of Somerset House... “May I possibly take a picture of your hat?”. And it didn’t stop there... The hat was papped by bloggers, photographers, buyers and TOURISTS! The hat was my ticket into a show when it was full to capacity, “Because I like your hat I will stop the queue after you” - RESULT! So I agree with Stephen Jones, a hat really is a passport to pleasure. Looking back, I am so glad I wore that hat.

The morning after... Saturday 19th Feb 2011

Dragging myself out of bed I showered, applied plasters to my blistered feet and headed into London once more musing on what the day had in store. What a great morning! First meeting the lovely make-up artist, Gemma Smith-Edhouse backstage at Craig Lawrence. Then briefly bumped into Terry Barber, Director of Artistry for MAC Cosmetics who, as a Make-up artist myself, I greatly admire. What a great guy, such a pleasure to meet him. If that wasn’t enough, I saw MACs new Wonder Woman collection. Now for those who know me well, they will be fully aware that this is a dream

come true for me. I LOVE Wonder Woman, I LOVE Make-up and I LOVE MAC... ahhhh happy sigh. Full of beans I headed home, wondering why today, people just looked through me? Mmmm... glamming up was in order. So slipping on my ‘Wizard of Oz’ Kurt Geiger heels, I later headed back into London AGAIN for more shows, followed by dancing the night away with the gorgeous NOIR ladies at Bungalow 8.

Photo of Heather B in Fushia Hat by VIV-SA SA-VIV for www.foxandsquirrel.com

A

nd breathe... As a LFW newbie, (yes, that’s right I’ve said it, it’s out there) nothing prepares you for the craziness of LFW. Here are my highlights...

Backstage access... Sun 20th Feb 2011

Backstage day at Fashion Mode to cover the Make-up (see article ‘Artists at work’, page 96). It was surprisingly calm to say there were 3 different looks to go on in 20 mins time. AOFM Make-up artist Jade Hinka even had time to smoke up my make-up while I quizzed her on A/W trends. By the end of Sunday I headed home early to recuperate as 2 more days left.

Hair make-over day! Monday 21st Feb 2011

By now I was flagging somewhat, so what does any girl do when they need

MAC Wonder Woman collection is out now in SELFRIDGES & MAC STORES.

Heather B reports on what life is like front row, backstage, choosing outfits and all the craziness at London Fashion Week.

STEPHEN JONES STEPHEN JONES TOPSY TURVY

The wonderful world of LFW

STEPHEN JONES PIERS ATKINSON

NOIR v i ew


NOIR v i ew picking up? That’s right, a hair cut was in order. And what a pick me up!

GI RL

Hairdresser David Akroyd from Toni & Guy in East Grinstead took my locks from lack lustre to glamorous, glossy waves, using label.m Protein Spray and Volume Mousse (www.labelm.co.uk). David radiates enthusiasm for what he does, which makes him excellent at his craft - people of East Grinstead, you have a real gem there. His predictions for A/W11 was dishevelled updos and structured plaits which were seen across the shows.

a b ou t

TO WN

Image of our ‘Girl about Town’ DANIELA MOROSINI by DAVID NYANZI - www.thenyanzireport.blogspot.com

I Sam Cam FROW... Tuesday 22nd Feb 2011

My last day at LFW. Interviewed for a blog on my way into Meadham Kirchoff. Post show I over heard “Can I have a photograph of Sam in front of this?”, “No, in fact, as far away from that as possible”... Sam Cam, front row, being ushered away from the central art installation - an ‘epitaph’ featuring crosses, flowers and quotes such as ‘I am a lie’... wonder what the headline would of been to go with that shot.

The aftermath... Despite being very, VERY tired, I came away totally inspired. So next time someone, like your Dad or Fella, scoffs at your ‘on trend’ outfit or hat (come on, we’ve all been there). Point out that our amazing Fashion Industry not only makes you feel and look great, it fuels the economy. With British industry on the decline, LFW made me feel proud to be British!

don’t know if it’s a sort of artistic juxtaposition that company bosses are aiming for when they set up their head quarters, but between you and me, Chanel excepted, the fancier the brand, the grottier the surroundings of their HQ. Lot 78? A corridor of police wanted posters for aggravated assault welcomes you. New Look? Try spotting it among the sea of high rise flats. And French Connection? That’ll be through the back doubles of Camden, past the crazy old guy telling you you’re “his angel”. Ah, London. Of course, once you’re through those double doors, you’re in a Wah Nails bar and free cups of tea paradise, but until that point, you’re in the most businesses. Under all the catwalk copycat-ing and trend-led pieces, they need to make a profit at the end of the day. The better they do that, the more change in their pockets. But this is when it’s starting to get difficult for the brilliant British high street; with an

increasing amount of minimal trends wafting down the catwalk, it’s getting hard for stores to replicate this look in a desirable way. The impact of uber-designers like Phoebe Philo and Hannah McGibbon at the helms of Celine and Chloe respectively have lead to less and less trends that can so easily be copied. Balmain’s s e q u i n n e d jackets a few seasons back? No problem. But as my friend Paula Watson (Sales at Michael Lewis) says: “A simple nude shirt from Chloe is exquisite. But from Primark, it’s just a shirt” The future of the high street is very much threatened by a lack of theatricality, which leads to a lack of speedy replicating, which leads to bland displays in shop windows, which leads to your purse staying firmly closed. I for one am fascinated to see how that incredible chameleon that is the high street adapts to a severe shortage of sequins 105

“A SIMPLE nude shirt from CHLOE is EXQUISITE. But from PRIMARK it’s JUST a shirt”


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