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UOMO NEUTRAL IS THE NEW BLACK

S/S MMXIV

THE SECRETS OF SAVILE ROW

BEHIND THE BRAIN Interview with DENIS GAGNON WHEN THE LINES FADE There’s a new way to shop

INSIDE SSENSE


EDITOR’S LETTER


When we chose the topics, I just had an image of one of my best friends and he is the kind of man in our magazine. He can spend a half month’s salary to buy new men’s clothing which decorated with lace, or a pair of Naples pants cut to narrow leg, or a modified Panama shorts…… He picks clothes faster than women. This scene shows more men begin to pay attention to fashion, they have their own fashion concept and do not need a woman in the side with lively gesticula-‐ tions. We decide to do this magazine because we want to share the idea that Fashion is not only about cloth-‐ ing. Menswear rises right away after women’s. In the early period, men do care about their self-‐image. They were focusing on clothing and accessories. In now day, the outer-‐beauty is not enough to being a fashion person. They need to care and build their nice body shape and also their “fashionable brain”. This is to think and talk intelligently. A seductive man not only has a nice image but also a great per-‐ sonality.

Being a student in Fashion Marketing at LaSalle College, I have a strong taste in fashion and lifestyles. One of the most intriguing styles of the moment is definitely the androgyny lifestyle and its own statement pieces. Since I am a woman that has a quite feminine style, i'm more at-‐ tracted by the woman side of the androgyny fashion. My go-‐to piece for the summer is obviously the 'boyfriend' jeans. I'm completely in love with these types of jeans. It is one of the most comfortable piece for the summer but yet one of the cutest. A simple white Tee to complete the outfit and i’m good to go!


“ Androgynous apparel is being seen more and more, the strict lines of gender roles are fading, men are wearing skirts, leggings and tunics” Luca is a recent graduate of LaSalle College, He recently showed is premiere collection at Toronto’s Arts and Fashion week. His brand Diodati is a testament to the Androgynous movement. “Diodati is best described as Androgynous mini-‐ malism”. In the Article Neutral is the new black Luca highlights the changing landscape of men’s fashion revealing it’s casual play on altering gender roles.

-VDB(BMBSEP

My name is Nicole Bonilla Torres , born in New York City . I was born in of the main fashion capital, where fashion is everything. Since I was a little girl walking in Manhattan I use to love seeing people walk down the streets with weird but at the same time amazing outfits. My hometown is an inspiration for me , I just love how this city represent fashion. I love to dress in many different styles depending on my mood and the weather .This androgyny style is seen a lot in New York .Each person has their own way of expressing their way of thinking .For this summer my fashion go-‐to have piece would be my sun master Ray Ban shades. I think that they are perfect for the sun and the fit very well many different out-‐ fits . They fit very well the androgyny style because they are very unisex . They give a clean look to every style and they are shade that are not to much in your face .

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5 10

THE RISE OF MENSWEAR ANDROGYNY MODELS

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INSIDE SSENSE

20

THESECRETS OF SAVILE ROW

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NEUTRAL IS THE NEW BLACK

26

TRENDS WHEN THE LINES FADE

30

LUCA’S ARTICLE

33

RAD HOURANI

37

TREND OR STYLE ?


TREND

Feminine Elements in Modern Male Fashion in the Runway

In 08/09 A/F menswear fashion week, Miuccia Prada the designer who has never ignored the rules, includes feminine elements in men’s cloth-‐ ing; Chinese-‐style chest covering, miniskirt, back opening shirt, incarna-‐ dine doublet. . . And thus, the traditional mas-‐ culine image is flipped and overturned. Shock-‐ ing!!! All famous media commentators and trend forecasting experts scream: The feminine era of men’s fashion has ar-‐ rived! With the evolution of modern social fashion moving toward a diversi-‐ fied direction, with the international background of emphasizing expanded

and different popular en-‐ vironments, “feminiza-‐ tion” of menswear itself has become a fashion. It not only reflects men’s psychological character-‐ istics to pursue individua tion, but also meets the need of diversified taste in modern society. The revolution of social histo-‐ ry, improvement of wom-‐ en’s status, promotion of mass media and develop ment of consumer society all have an important effect on men’s clothing leaning towards “femini-‐ zation”. This “feminiza-‐ tion” of men’s clothing has become not only a multicultural perfor-‐ mance element, but also a means of expression for people pursuing fashion. As male consumer ability

ALEXANDER MCQUEEN 09 S/S Prada’s Fall/Winter 08 -‐09

has increased, their ideas in fashion have also tended to become more mature and rational. People pay more atten-‐ tion to personality; so in this era of individualilty, the formal suit does not satisfy males’ various needs. Put simply, the “femi-‐ nine” in men’s clothing is influenced by female con-‐ sciousness, and women elements are added to men’s clothing designs. However, menswear cannot completely deny the men’s elements; thus, using the basics of menswear, it absorbs and draws lessons from wom-‐ en’s wear elements, in-‐ cluding design, material, colour, etc. Since the 21st century, we have in-‐ advertently found that most traditional images of the strong masculine man has disappeared; in-‐ stead, we have a man of more tender feelings –a new good man. Clothing no longer expresses bold temperament but deli-‐ cate, lively and exquisite personalities. Designers have begun to put more women's wear elements into men’s clothing: lace, transparent material, drape design and bold colour. They make the men’s clothing finds the breakthrough to break depressing in the style of feminine. At the S/S 09 men’s wear conference, the trend of feminine style in men’s wear


TREND became more obvious. Today, the androgynous bisexual style frequently appears at many top shows. It embodies the unique beauty of the feminine man. The an-‐ drogynous style in 09 S/S fashion show began in Milan. Alexander Mc-‐ Queen displayed his high-‐ light of hermaphrodite: the side seam in tops or pants design with a transparent trip edge, so that the audience can see the movements of muscle when the male models walk on stage; put gauze cloak on the top of tight T-‐shirt to build sexy amorous feel-‐ ings; half vest design combined with shirt to bring an split-‐level style, like women’s bra; the most amazing detail is a sheen tassel coat, it looks like directly take-‐ from the women’s wear. In addition, the metal weaving grain fishbone pattern and blows away smoke pattern are also the key designs in this season. The insiders are expecting the Prada’s new season design theme.Because Miuccia Prada has never repeat-‐ ed the style. After the collection 08/09 autumn and winter leads the men’s feminine trend, in 09 S/S collection, Prada is still continuing to this theme, and challenging the men’s original fash-‐ ion taste. The collar of long hooded coat de-‐ signed in completely like

ladies evening dress. It’s shoulder straps on shoulder blades is the only focus that we found that man’s collar bone can also be very sexy. The round neck-‐ line design has almost never appeared in the field of men’s wear. But Prada takes it directly, and the colour is more stable and more gentle. The layers design let people think of Comme des Garson, however, the t-‐shirt to be dress is a bold design. It fully in-‐ spired 09 S/S men’s wear design. In Roberto Cavalli’s collection, the palm leaves, POP ver-‐ sion leopard grain, and the flower pattern are absolutely beautiful; Salvatore Ferragamo use petals decorate translucent shirt and hollow out flowers sweater to make people doubt that it is really for men. And Gucci and Calvin Klein’s suit use fluorescent colour from head to toes even tie and shoes. And after Milan's fashion show, the 09 menswear in Paris, the most unusual even somewhat contro-‐ versial Comme des Gar-‐ cons, she let male models wear skirt; a large number of skirts, dresses and layers dress can be seen everywhere during the show. Al-‐ though Jean Paul Gault-‐ ier have long skirt design for men, and he only let extremely

muscle male models to wear. For men’s wear feminine phenomenon, how we treat it? Men’s wear femi-‐ nine design aimed at blur the traditional boundar-‐ ies between the genders. Through the equal and opposite of masculine and feminine elements, the designers create many novel and fuzzy new ap-‐ pearances of men. Thus the distinction between men’s fashion on gender is no longer a stable con-‐ stant but as well as wom-‐ en’s clothing is in con-‐ stant change. The emer-‐ gence of the phenomenon of feminine and popular men’s clothing design changed; the aesthetic psychology and social thought of incentives are closely connect. As the difference of men and women in social life grad-‐ ually shirked, the gender role also presents conver-‐ gence trend. The gender division reflect the power changed between men and women. orescent co TING PAN-‐ lour from head to toes even tie and shoes. And after Milan's fashion show, the 09 menswear in Paris, the most unusual even somewhat contro-‐ versial Comme des Gar-‐ cons, she let male models wear skirt; a large number of skirts, dresses and layers dress can be seen everywhere during the show. Although Jean


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MODELS It is not rare to see a shrink male model on the runway, and it is be-‐ coming more frequent in recent years. But, is it a signal that the menswear market has already changed? The runway guides the fashion; but it is people who inspire the runway. The male model has withered from a 42-‐inch chest and 33-‐inch waist in 1967, to a 36-‐inch chest and 27-‐inch waist in 2010. Male models with adolescent bodies now outnumber their beefcake col-‐ leagues on the runway. The male models at last spring’s Saint Laurent show were so danger-‐ ously thin that their appearance gave rise to outrage from both con-‐ cerned health officials and the Twitterverse. The runway reveals that the menswear market has shrunk to focus on customers who weigh less than 170 pounds. In 2001 in Hedi Slimane’s collection for Dior Homme, he created an elegant, rakish look that caught on with mu-‐ sicians, Hollywood stars and fash-‐ ion’s elite. Karl Lagerfeld famously shed over 90 pounds for the express purpose of wearing Slimane’s cloth-‐ ing. The use of shrink male models brings fresh things to the fashion, but can also cause problems. One such problem is that it can call social values into question. Male models are keen on becoming thin because they can find more job. One such model is Andrej Pejic, who has a delicate face and is known as androgynous, is from Aus-‐ tralia. He is a rare fashion creature and presents the beauty of the male model. His image provokes fuzziness aesthetics and blows the wind of transgender on the runway. In this era, gender is not the prob-‐ lem, as long as you are beautiful, special, and daring, you will get at-‐ tention. He told New York maga-‐ zine: 'I know people want me to sort of defend myself, to sit here and be like, "I'm a boy, but I wear make-‐up sometimes. But, you

Androgyny

Models

know, to me, it doesn’t really matter. I don’t really have that sort of strong gender identity -‐ I identify as what I am. The fact that people are using it for creative or market-‐ ing purposes, it’s just kind of like having a skill and using it to earn money.”

Another problem concerns health. Some male models literally starve themselves on order to achieve a certain level of ‘thin’. A model suf-‐ fering from eating disorders wrote a book about his experience to reveal the shady side of this busi-‐ ness. In this book,

he describes the thin modelling wind made him suffer from anorex-‐ ia. In order to get work opportuni-‐ ties, he went on a diet and almost died. He said: “My daily work is run-‐ ning, drinking coffee, running 8 km, then drinking another cup of coffee, biking 32 km., taking a rest, then swimming. I’m under huge pressure as a model to below 79 kg. Finally, I did, and I sign a contract with a model agency, but I look like skin and bones.” -‐ TING PAN


MARKETING

INSIDE

Is Ssense.com a good or bad website from which to buy products? That is the question we are going to answer. Ssense is an online designer clothing retailer located in Montreal, Qc. Like every single thing in life, this website has both negative and posi-‐ tive sides.

First of all, the simple, black and white and modern appearance of the web-‐ site helps customers find what they want at first sight. It is really easy to nav-‐ igate with their variety of products and designers because they are all well indicated. Customers, men or women, can buy anything from suits to coats and shoes and even underwear. Another great point that this online retail store has is variety in price range. For example, customers can buy a pair of $30 socks or a $3000 designer bag. They also offer a ‘sale’ section, where de signer clothing can be bought at a cheaper price. There is also an assortment of sizes, from X-‐Small to X-‐Large. The variety of products on this website gives them a wider market. Furthermore, on garment page, we are informed of every single detail that we would want to know about a product. The page consists of many pictures modelling the garments from different aspects and how they fit on the body. Each garment has a small description with the fabric information and where it was made. I really like the fact that they link all accessories or other gar-‐ ments with which the garment can be paired. I find that it is helpful for cus-‐ tomers who want to have the same outfit as the model.

There are many other good sides to this company such as the free shipping for all orders over $100 shipped to Canada. Plus, delivery is quite quick and many of the brands are not available on other websites. An interesting point is that on every designer’s page, they have a small description of his or her career, which adds a personal touch. Of course, this site has negatives also. Customer reviews say that refunds are difficult and time-‐consuming compared to other online retail stores. Some say that it costs around $40 to ship their products back to the company, which isn’t a good thing for someone who is indecisive. Customer service is apparently hard to contact, whether it’s by email or by phone. The company respects its simple branding with their not so fancy packaging, but it can be boring at some point. The last negative point is that they have only an English version of the website, even if they are located in a bilingual country. Ssense is an online company that is beneficial for customers who know what they want and who aren’t too picky about details. It is, in general, a good website with simple and normal negative points to consider, but overall it is a great way to buy cheaper luxury items without going out and buying the products in a physical retail store.

Kate Lainesse


Devin

BY :Devin Andro

DEVIN.ANDRO.COM


MARKETING We often connect fashion with women; but surprisingly, men are starting to show an interest in this complicated industry. Compared to women, they buy more luxury and quality products when it comes to fashion and beauty. They want their products to last for a very long time. Does that make them more attracted to fashion than women? I don’t think so. Women have always been attracted to this indus-‐ try and will always be, but we can now see a huge difference in men’s views on fashion. It seems that they are now start-‐ ing to show interest in feeling good about their bodies and making themselves look

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Without a doubt, we have seen a growth in the men’s market in recent years. In fact, China, one of the biggest countries, has seen this change happen in their mar-‐ kets. China is forecast to record the fast-‐ est market growth in the men‘s wear in-‐ dustry. It has generated to close to $78 billion in sales to date in 2014. That is a big difference from the 2012 sales, which were $58.8 billion only for men‘s wear. To stay with statistics, Europe is the region where the men’s wear market is generat-‐ ing the biggest sales. With $131.9 billion generated by this industry in 2014, Europe is a way ahead of China. The American man has started to follow the example of the European man, and buys more and more each year. When it comes to the UK, they have seen an increase of 12% from the past five years in this type of market. Online shopping has become more popular all over the world. Men and women buy different things through the Internet. Maybe this easy way to buy has helped increase the sales in the men’s wear industry for example, only in the UK; one third of men is shopping online for clothes.


These statistics may trick us because it isn’t only men who are shopping for their own clothes; sometimes their wives or even moms go for them and buy their clothes because they don’t like shopping. There’s also the fact that there are gifts bought for men, and this distorts the re-‐ sultsof whether or not men are attracted to fashion. These elements do not show in real life statistics. One research actually got the information that only 25% of men like to shop for clothes and beauty prod-‐ ucts in the UK. This particular research helps us with an answer to our question. However, it can consist of men in the fashion industry. We need to take many things into considerations before a real answer to our question. A survey was done on men and their habits related to fashion and buying prod-‐ ucts. 52% of them said that they were willing to pay more for a brand they like. Compared to wome -‐n, they are

attracted by quality and long-‐lasting products whether than quantity. Men also like to buy things they really need such as a suit for special occasions or even for their work, and they look for quality in these garments, of course. Suits repre-‐ sent 35% of the overall men’s clothing market. Luxury products are bought more by men than women, surprisingly. The global luxury men’s wear market is growing at 14% a year, nearly double the pace of women’s luxury wear. For example, Hugo Boss Company is generating its sales mostly from men’s wear and thinks it comes from the cultural shift all around the world that has led to more men being interested in fashion and beauty, who invest in their appearance. The higher people in the industry expect this boom to continue and to increase even more. Many explications have been given of why men have become more and more attract-‐ ed by fashion in such a small time period. One of them may


be because of many TV shows such as ‘Mad Men’. These types of shows could possibly give the want and need to certain men to feel better looking and feel better in their bodies by making themselves look good with clothes and beauty products. Men are now less shy about buying acces-‐ sories such as scarves and bracelets to complete their outfits. This change in at-‐ titude has increased sales compared to before, as they now dress a little fancier for everyday activities. Also, fashion has changed a lot throughout the years and it now offers more options for men. There are new trends and new styles that are more inviting for different types of per-‐ sonality. It is quite different from the small variety of garments they used to have choose from. This is possibly another reason why the men’s wear industry is growing. Some older men feel that there are not

enough choices in the garments for them; they think that most of the fast-‐fashion and trendy clothes only target the young-‐ er generation. If they had their own cate-‐ gory of clothes, maybe sales would in-‐ crease even faster. Maybe men do not shop as often as women, but records show that they are constant and very loyal with brands they like. With all the statistics that are avail-‐ able on the subject, we discovered that men show a big interest in fashion and beauty products such as perfume and face cream. The difference in sales over the past five years demonstrates the enor-‐ mous growth in the men’s wear market. Many different styles are available for dif-‐ ferent personalities and this had helped to increase sales. Men are now prouder of themselves and have reached the point of feeling good about who they are. People in the fashion industry are hoping that this growth will increase each year. We all hope that more stores with a lot of variety only will open and stay on the market for a long time. Kate Lainesse

http://www.eff-‐style.com/wp-‐content/uploads/2013/12/ menswear-‐infographics-‐pic.png


DESIGNER

During the past few years designers have done things in their collections thats has been unseen. They have taken fashion to a whole nother level by taking many risks . For example the style of androgyny , this first started when women were wearing pants in the 20’s . But it was really in the 60’s were it officially became a unisex dressing. Many big names brought to there collection this style which became famous in haute couture .

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Rad has become the first designer in history to present the unisex haute couture show. He’s point of view is that his clothing can be worn by anyone at any time. His inspiration has come from the sic-fi theme. He wants to create very straights lines and a light look to keep a confidant look to their collections by using light wool.He has a big inspiration by photography, architecture, music, film, design, and literature.

EX S I RAD HOURANI is from Jordan situated in Western Asia . He is a very young designer UN

with a lot of creativity by designing unisexe. He first collection came out in Paris and that is where he made his label out . He has continue with his unisex collections in the runways of New York names RAD by Rad Hourani . And his unisex Haute Coutre collection are known in the runways of Paris . Living in a Muslim country where the religion is very dominant Rad felt a limit to these ideas and where he wanted to take in his career. When he arrived in Montreal, Canada he felt to have the freedom to become an adult he has always wanted to be. These unisex collections have been inspiring because of this androgyny style . This style has become extremely known by trend forecasters. Women have been dominating fashion for a longtime , we notices with Rad’s collection and other designers that men are taking there position in the fashion industry . Rad’s style is not the typical "men-in-skirts" approach, he concentrates on all kind of clothes. He creates that idea that men can wear what women are wearing and that women can wear what men are wearing . We notice that his collections are have a minimalist look to create more of a neutre look . This unisex design of the future of fashion.

SPRING/SUMMER 2014 COLLECTION


EXCLUSIVE INTERVIEW We had the chance to meet this amazing and inpiring desginer and ask him some exculsive questions. He tells us untold storties about his carrer and how he manage to get his name out there .

Nicole :Hi rad , tell us how do you feel if being the first designer in haute couture to do the unisex style ?

Nicole : Tell us exactly from where do you

Rad Hourani: Hi , well i’m very honoured do have this

Rad : Wow ! that’s a hard question because

title . I have worked hard to be in the position that I am now . People think that being in the fashion industry is fun , but what people see is only the glamours part . There is so many competition in this industry that it’s hard to be unique but you have to find a way to be original . That is what I did I found a way to be unique and original with my unisex collections

Nicole : Tell us about your collections and what fabrics you use ? Rad : My collection as you have seen in pictures it is

unisex style . I have my ready to wear collection that is for anyone that wants to do the androgyny style and i have my haute couture collection that is more luxury . I use light wool because it give my collection a luxury look and its very good quality . And that is what i’m looking for in my collections

Nicole : Tell us how was it growing up and when did you figure out you wanted to be in this industry ?

Rad : My childhood was a bit hard because we came from a country were many thing are prohibited. It is not a country where you can express yourself a lot . And being a man in the fashion industry was not seen. When I came to Canada , I felt i was free to be who every i wanted to be , I could express the really me . I knew I wanted to be in the fashion industry at a very young age . When I started at LaSalle College it was a bit hard since there was so much talent . I found a way to be and show my talent . And I also have to thank my family for supporting me in all my projects

get your inspiration . ?

I can get inspired by so many things. My collections consist on very little colour because I want to keep that unisex concept where we do not see a feminine colour or a to masculine colour I try to keep it very structure . For a unisex collection I get inspired by the future ! I imagine how we are going to see fashion in a few years . Androgyny is the main inspiration for my collections . I can get inspired by technology which has nothing to do with fashion

If you want to see his unisex gallery he is now having one in his hometown Montreal at 231 Saint Paul.O #100 .


? E L Y T S R O D TREN

TREND

In 2014 we see many different trends , that some people may not consider to be fashion . But what is fashion ? who decides what fashion is ? As a fashion student learning about this industry I notices how people think that fashion is brands such as Louis Vuitton , Chanel , Dior and many other big houses . But I think that in each one of us we have our own specific definition of fashion . Each and every one of us have our own kind of style .

Coming back to the mens fashion , people may think that men now a days do not care about their closet but they are wrong . Men are becoming the new fashionistas of this century. We see more and more men in this industry. What is interesting to see in the runways of Paris , New York or even Milan how we can not sometimes see the difference between man and women . This is becoming a What is a trend for you ? Many people consider trend. It’s not something that is new but now themselves as they call ‘’TRENDY’’ but who really people see in a differently . knows what’s the trends are . There are many For men it was very little in the industry but big kind of trends that trend forecasters help designers to see and create their creations from name designers notice how big the market has what they consider to be a trend . Being a trend become. Men have shown there place in the fashforecaster is not easy and has many responsibili- ion industry in many ways. We now see how many men designers are out there and how well they do. ties on them . They are the main key of this Such as Denis Gagnon, Rad Hourani , Jean Paul industry . We notice that Androgyny is a trend that has become very big . Not only now but also Gauthier and many others . Even if they do also women's fashion , they are proof that men also before . Big names have done collections to have a taste in fashion. demonstrate that androgyny can be worn any where . The Androgyny is a style that is seen every where. Many people can follow the trends to feel good Women are seen wearing it in there ready to wear clothing , by using the boyfriend cut style jeans and about the way they dress. But what they don’t see is that trend forecasters inspire themselves other clothing . But there are also men that are wearing things that we usually see women wearing by what they see in the streets. Man have been . This has become a unisex style that is very popuseeing wearing skirts which was a big deal for the fashion industry since it was lar. It has been seen since the late 20’s when ing mens work never seen. It was the same women were wearclothing . impact that men had when . they saw women wearing pants.Why such a scandal when men are wearing skirts? Many people may say because it feminine but in fashion nothing can be distinguish. Society needs to understand that nothing in fashion is normal , every year and very century many things are going to change ! And that many thing can influence the way people thing . Economics , politics , marketing , environment and many other aspect can influence fashion.


Coming back to the mens fashion , people may think that men now a days do not care about their closet but they are wrong . Men are becoming the new fashionistas of this century. We see more and more men in this industry. What is interesting to see in the runways of Paris , New York or even Milan how we can not sometimes see the difference between man and women . This is becoming a trend. It’s not something that is new but now people see in a differently . For men it was very little in the industry but big name designers notice how big the market has become. Men have shown there place in the fashion industry in many ways. We now see how many men designers are out there and how well they do. Such as Denis Gagnon, Rad Hourani , Jean Paul Gauthier and many others . Even if they do also women's fashion , they are proof that men also have a taste in fashion. The Androgyny is a style that is seen every where. Women are seen wearing it in there ready to wear clothing , by using the boyfriend cut style jeans and other clothing . But there are also men that are wearing things that we usually see women wearing . This has become a unisex style that is very popular. It has been seen since the late 20’s when women were wearing mens work clothing -Nicole Bonilla .

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RAD HOURANI SS2014


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