Page 1

ISSN 1859-4123

5:4 JUN-JUL L 2014 2

Rice ink was the secret to woodblock printing p.8


No 5, Vol.4, June-July 2014



COVER STORY History The 8 wooden printers that saved reading 9 Rice ink was the secret to woodblock printing Art

14 Folk tales, theatre and musicians lacquered in crimson and gold Food

16 Hunting for mushrooms in the Mekong Delta Religion

18 The Lady of the Land Agriculture

20 Beekeepers have a sweet and stinging life Travel


22 River trip brings plenty of local flavour Hotel advertorial 25 Lavish luxury awaits at Indochine Palace Craft

26 The last of the ceramics artisans Restaurant advertorial

28 Vietnamese Cuisine, Heritage and Herefordshire! Entertaiment

30 Dinner & puppets: an enchanting evening 34 What the papers say 35 Asides 36 Events 39 Value for money 42 Buyable 43 Directions 58 Laid back

22 28

Cover photograph: Bronze-block at Sinh Village, Hue. Photo from Vietnam Heritage Photo Awards 2012. Photo: Hoang Huu Tu



Published by the Cultural Heritage Association of Vietnam

Vietnam Heritage Editorial Office:

Publication licence No: 1648/GP-BTTTT from the Ministry of Information and Communications of the Socialist Republic of Vietnam for the English-language edition of The Gioi Di San (The World of Heritage) magazine Editor-in-Chief: Le Thanh Hai; Public Relations Director: Bui Thi Hang; Managing Editor: Le Duc Tan; Sub-editing: Erik Johnson; Assistant: Kha Tu Anh; Production: Nguyen Hoang Kim Long; Contributing Photographers: Nguyen Ba Han, Hoang Quoc Tuan, Hoang The Nhiem, Huynh Van Nam, Le Hoai Phuong, Nguyen Anh Tuan; Ngo Nguyen Huynh Trung Tin; Tran Viet Duc Correspondent: Pip de Rouvray; Advertising and Circulation: Green Viet Advertising JSC Advertising Service: Hong Ngoc 099 747 1526 Email:; Subscriptions: Thuy Phuong 0166 79 70 706 Email: Hanoi Advertising and Subscription: The He Moi MHN Viet Nam Co.Ltd, Mr Song Hao: 0903 476 999

15A/28 Le Thanh Ton, Ben Nghe Ward, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam Tel: (84-8) 3827 2749 Fax: (84-8) 3823 7798 Email:

Vietnam Heritage is published monthly, produced in Vietnam and printed at Army Printing House No 2. Š All rights reserved. Vietnam Heritage Vietnam Heritage

vietnam heritage - june-july 2014


Playing kites in Quang Ngai Province, South-Central Vietnam, 2013

Photo: Trinh Thu Nguyet. Photo from Vietnam Heritage Photo Awards 2013


The wooden printers that saved reading By Phan Cam Thuong*


A page in a Buddhist book printed in 1856. Photo provided by Nguyen Anh Tuan

he Vietnamese people have possessed the art of papermaking since around the third century. However, the craft of printing sutras did not exist until the eleventh century. During the Tran era, the bonzes of the Zen Truc Lam Sect on Yen Tu Mountain printed many Buddhist books. In particular, during the diplomatic process with the Yuan Dynasty, they acquired the Tripitika-the entire set of Buddhist

8 • vietnam heritage - june-july 2014

sutras, or wise sayings, at that timeand reprinted them in Dai Viet (Vietnam), with added supplementary Buddhist works composed by Dai Viet Buddhist scholars. After the war against the Ming Dynasty (1407-1427), nearly all Vietnamese books were seized and burned. Thus, the printing craft can be considered to have been virtually lost to posterity until Le Dynasty Civil Service Examination Laureate, Luong Nhu Hoc, on

the occasion of emissary missions to China (1443-1459), surreptitiously learned the craft, especially during his second mission, during which he posed as a merchant in order to study printing. Afterwards, in the years around 1470, he transmitted the craft to the people of the two villages Hong Luc and Lieu Chang in Hai Hung. A portion of the villagers who plied the trade remained in their home villages, and another portion of them went

history to Thang Long (modern Hanoi) to open printing houses for professional book printing. The folk paintings of Hang Trong also owe their development to this renaissance. Although it was just printing, there were many different schools of printing and numerous varying printing techniques. Among them, sutra printing is considered the oldest. People have discovered Buddhist sutras from the Tang Dynasty (618907). Xylography supplanted hand-copying by brush, which was ever prone to errors and labour-intensive. The ancient woodblocks could print hundreds and thousands of books with a degree of precision that ensured close replication—at least in terms of information— and only after a number of years did the woodblocks need to be re-carved. This work demanded a high level of expertise, despite anyone’s being capable of carving something onto wood boards and printing it out onto paper. In order to make a book,

people had to select someone to write each and every character to form pages like those of an actual book. They then pasted the paper on which the characters were written onto a wood board to be carved. It was possible that one woodblock had just two sides producing two book pages, or people would carve two pages onto one side such that one woodblock constituted four printed pages. If a book had four hundred pages, then it would have required 200-400 woodblocks, and the number of a book’s xylographic blocks sometimes took up an entire room. The calligraphers who penned the writing needed to know at least several thousand Chinese and Nom (the demotic Vietnamese script) characters and be well-versed in the fundamental scripts. Usually, the character-writing sections were carefully inspected so that there were no erroneous characters before they were allowed to be engraved. Nevertheless, errors and omissions still occurred, as

Rice ink was the secret to woodblock printing By Phan Cam Thuong

is evidenced by several woodblocks on which people had to carve out a few characters and put in several different ones. Due to Chinese cultural influence, virtually all knowledge was transmitted though Chinese characters. Thus, when books published by Vietnamese people were compiled, some had easyto-read content and limited vocabulary so that ordinary people could readily read them. At the same time, many illustrations were added. Thus book illustrations were quite prevalent. They were done in several forms: books with an illustrated cover page, books with characters above and illustrations below, books with illustrations above and characters below, and books that alternated between fullpage illustrations and a full page of characters. Some books were a kind of scroll that was contained on one long page; others were folded page unto page, but the entire book was still contained on one page. When read, a stick was inserted to turn from

page to page. As for the majority of books, most were bound to form books with sutured spines and resin-coated covers. The wood used for printing and engraving was important. In Vietnam, usually the wood used was that of the golden-apple tree (Diospyros decandra), which had splayed grain and, though hard, had a stable character surface. It was usually soaked for a long time over many years before being brought out to be engraved. In China, people used pear tree and apple tree wood, which are also very hard. In Japan, in order to engrave woodblocks with extremely minute details, people got them from circular splices of tree wood. The grain flowed vertically, so the details could be made quite minute. Examination cheatsheet books in Vietnam sometimes have characters as small as a sesame seed, but are very detailed and read well. (To be continued) n * Phan Cam Thuong is an expert on Vietnamese culture


n Vietnam, it was not until the twentieth century that printing houses began employing Western methods that used machinery and printed fine lead letters. Five hundred years earlier, the means of producing printed materials was truly no simple matter. People in the past also realized how problematic this was. Thus, important sutras, books, and historical hallmarks—anything which people wanted to promulgate to the populace—were engraved on bronze or stone steles. Anyone could attach a paper to the stele, apply ink, and pat the paper down gently and gradually from behind. The places with inscriptions would come out white, while those without would come out black. Following this method could result in a picture. It was not used to make a prose document, lll Sinh painting Photo: Hoang Huu Tu vietnam heritage - june-july 2014



Left: Bronze-blocks at Sinh Village, Hue. Photo from Vietnam Heritage Photo Awards 2012. Photo: Hoang Huu Tu

because the document would always depend on the size of the stele, which was usually very large. Later on, the xylographic method of printing developed according to the two styles of supine printing and prone printing. Supine printing was pressing paper onto a woodblock print that had been coated with ink and placed on the ground (or held in the hands, as Dong Ho paintings are printed). After that, a loofah sponge was used to rub the paper so that the features of the lettering


10 • vietnam heritage - june-july 2014

would be imprinted. Prone printing was putting the paper down and pressing with the woodblock print from above. This method was often used by graphic painters. They had to design an entire mechanical press to push forcefully and deeply into the paper before the ink would penetrate. This method was appropriate for printing detailed paintings, since the details were printed onto the paper very carefully. However, as for the printing of books, this was too cumbersome and slow. People in the

past often used Chinese ink mixed with plaster or glue. Printing with Chinese ink was relatively difficult; it bled easily and was wasteful. The Vietnamese created a kind of ink that allowed for just one application of ink and one printing to produce black, wellfeatured lettering. Even Dong Ho and Hang Trong folk paintings were done like this. This black color was made from bamboo or straw, which was lightly burned so that its qualities were retained and then soaked in a jar until it became muddy. When used, it was neces-


sary to mix a sticky paste, which was poured into the ink, so that it fermented for a few days. Depending on the weather, the fermentation caused the ink to become very dark. When it was time to print, the sticky rice paste was again stirred and poured in the ink to make it sticky. The sticky paste kept the vegetation-based ink from bleeding on the paper. At the same time, it ensured that the printing only required one application without having to do it again a second time. Nevertheless, if printing a picture, the colors needed to be applied up to four times before it was dark enough to render it in detail. After having printed several times, it was necessary to clean the woodblock, because if the ink got too sticky, then it would no longer come out detailed enough. If the woodblock was used to print books, then there were only black and white woodblock prints. When printing a multicolored picture, then it was necessary to use quite a lot of woodblocks to print in color according to the number of

colors and shades in the picture. Dong Ho folk paintings did not have light and dark shades, but rather are printed in the original colors. The number of color woodblock prints was not great, only four to six of them. Chinese New year folk paintings have both original colors and places with multiple shading, so the number of color woodblocks is greater. However, unrivaled in the use of multiple coloration was Japanese Ukiyo-e painting, which had up to sixty-four color woodblock prints. Thus, in order to print out a picture for which each woodblock might have color applied three times, it took up to and over 200 printings. In order to make all the woodblocks match one another without bleeding de-

manded extreme expertise in printing. Owing to this, painting colors by brush became prevalent, especially in the New Year paintings and folk paintings of Hang Trong, Kim lll

Top: A print from a recently-restored 16th century woodblock. Photo provied by Nguyen Anh Tuan. Below: Bronze-block at

Sinh Village, Hue. Photo from Vietnam Heritage Photo Awards 2012. Photo: Hoang Huu Tu

vietnam heritage - june-july 2014

• 11


Above and below: Painting and drying at Sinh Village, Hue

Photos from Vietnam Heritage Photo Awards 2012. Photos: Hoang Huu Tu

Hoang, and Sinh Village. That is, people printed out the black features onto the paper and then painted on colors with brushes. This process was just like painting; thus it was possible to tinker with the shading. Fading a gradient from dark to light was very common in New Year and Hang Trong painting. Nowadays, some Dong Ho paintings also utilize this method, especially in the four seasons set of


12 • vietnam heritage - june-july 2014

paintings. In the Hang Trong painting tradition, people used a flat brush and dotted a corner with ink while dotting another corner with water. The black ink and the water bled together to create a light to dark gradient. Then people could facilely paint shades onto the paper. All folk paintings that were painted by brush used natural watercolors or pigmented colors that were applied very quickly. Some-

times people finished applying the colors to a painting in just ten minutes. It is not true that all folk paintings were xylographic prints. In fact, in the past, many painting studios painted entirely by hand and the artist painted right in front of the customer. Of course, all the subject matter was familiar— religious devotion, just as the men of old had painted and passed down to them.n


Folk tales, theatre and musicians lacquered in crimson and gold By PiP de RouvRay


hile they may not have entirely invented it, one form of the fine arts that the Vietnamese have developed into their own and one at which they are universally acknowledged to be the world’s best, is lacquer painting. This is called ‘son mai’ in Vietnamese. The tradition, surprisingly, goes back no further than the 1930’s and is a laborious process involving as many as ten layers and employing egg

shell, clear varnish derived from the sap of a certain tree, silver leaf, charcoal powder and even human hair. I had previously thought lacquer was something used only to decorate wooden objects for practical use and indeed, I possess a beautiful lacquer-adorned wooden bowl, presented to me years ago by some Russian students from the Far East of their land. But the other day, I picked up a hardback book featuring over a hundred plates of the work of

A painting from the book ‘Ky niem 1000 nam Thang Long - Dong Do - Hanoi’. Photo: Hung Khuynh 14 • vietnam heritage - june-july 2014

artist Hung Khuynh. They are so beautiful both in their lovely hues of dark red and golden yellows and their traditional Vietnamese themes that I am longing to see some of them for real at an exhibition. I also feel the need to communicate to you the existence of this wonderful tome, so I am presenting you with this review. Around twenty five per cent of the plates treat the theme of musicians. The ancient chamber music genre ‘Ca Tru’, often shown to tourists these days with female vocalist, three-string lute player and percussionist, is a favourite of his. He certainly has an eye for the girls, with many pictures of ensembles of lovely lasses with long, silky black hair playing stringed instruments. He also takes the old chestnut of the boy on the back of the water buffalo playing the flute and by distorting the scenes in almost a cubist way, makes it his own. One double-page spread of a quartet of girls playing mandolin, moon lute, zither and long flute particularly impressed me. The young ladies in their long, flowing garb form the centre piece, but all around are iconic buildings of Hanoi: the bridge going out to the island on Hoan Kiem Lake, the One-Pillar Pagoda and the Flag Tower. The twelve signs of the zodiac are depicted in clouds; six on each side. Then, departing from traditional-only scenes, the skyscrapers of modern Hanoi are shown in the background. The ex-

planation for this is given in the title, ‘Thang Long - Dong Do Hanoi’. The book was published to commemorate the one-thousandth anniversary of Hanoi’s founding. Other forms of the performing arts taken as themes are classical drama, dance, and water and land puppetry. He also depicts people in village festival scenes of a bygone age with a cast of thousands and multiple activities. There is a double-page spread of musicians adding to the gaiety of a dragon boat festival. The only nude - and it is by no means erotic – is of a minority dancer wearing a crown. She looks to be Khmer. The titles of these paintings are simple and unpretentious. The few pages of text in Vietnamese, English (rather poor quality translation, I have to say) and French describe Quynh as a straightforward man. Pictures of legends are given the normal name of the story – ‘Children of the Fairy and Dragon’, ‘Bac Ninh’s Music’, ‘The Paper Knight’ and the famous legend of ‘Restored Sword’. With daily activities, too, the title you get is what you see –‘Going to Market’, ‘Fishing’, ‘Childhood’, ‘Boat Race’, ‘Farmer’, and ‘Mask’, for example. Only on one page does Khuynh deviate from his magic realism. This demonstrates his ability to paint very realistically indeed. They are three still lifes of cups, bowls, fans and opium pipes. I saw only two occasions in which he strays from Vietnamese heritage. One frame is Adam and Eve by the tree looking fine in Paradise and with no snake in view. The other is when he playfully employs a

king from a pack of Western playing cards in a scene. Khuynh’s paintings radiate warmth. Partly, this is coming from the use of vibrant colours, which are probably even brighter on the actual canvass. Partly also, this is because he transports you to a world where everyone appears happy. Yet this is no Marc Chagall, who mixes dream with reality to get happiness. Khuynh is firmly rooted in reality, only it is an idealised reality taking you back to a past that perhaps never really existed or is now summoned up as Vietnamese culture to present to the foreign visitor. This art is escapist, but only in the very best of taste. If you are feeling depressed about the reality of everyday modern Vietnam - the motorbikes, the noise, the rush to modernity, then this is your tonic. Just browsing through the pages will restore your positive attitude and love for Vietnam. All in all, a very pleasing book of pictures to warm your soul and enjoy the spirit of Vietnam. It is further evidence that when it comes to art, Vietnam has some world-class exponents. Horace the Latin poet wrote, ‘Painting is poetry without words.’ Whilst this is not always true with modern art, which may be out to shock or have other agendas, it is a simple truth when applied to Mr Khuynh’s work. ‘Ky niem 1000 nam Thang Long - Dong Do - Hanoi’ by Hung Khuynh is published by Fine Arts Publishing House, 2010. Email the artist at or visit the website or the Two Tigers gallery site.n


Hunting for mushrooms in the Mekong Delta By Thanh Tong

Termite mushrooms. Photo: Huong Giang


fter a heavy rain lasting several days, when sunlight breaks out in the sky, termite mushrooms begin to sprout. Termite mushrooms are most robust in the beginning of the sixth month on lunar calendar (early July this year). They are a kind of natural mushroom that cannot be planted by humans and often appears near termite mounds in gardens. This species of termite makes termitaria on dry elevated land with many decaying trees. When the rain persists over several days, this species of termite secretes an enzyme around 16 • vietnam heritage - june-july 2014

their nest. Once the sun comes out, the mushrooms shoot up from this area in patches that are sometimes several meters long. People who hunt for termite mushrooms have to wake up when the sky is still dark, carrying lamps for foraging. Termite mushrooms often re-germinate or shoot up around areas where they were the previous year, so they are easy to find. On the day the mushrooms first shoot up, they are as small as a pepper corn, with pointy heads just beginning to emerge from the earth’s surface. Mushrooms this size cannot be pulled out, so who-

ever finds them ‘lays claim’ to them by taking coconut leaves to cover them or planting a stake there to mark it, so as to let people know that the spot already has a claimant. In less than two days, the mushrooms protrude from the earth’s surface to a height of 3-4cm, but they do not yet open. It is not until the end of the second day that the mushrooms start to burst open, which is the best time to harvest them and make the best-tasting foods. Peculiarly, knives or any other metal object cannot be used to pull out the mushrooms, because people say that if the mush-


A termite mushroom in U Minh Ha National Park, Mekong Delta. Photo: Huynh Lam

rooms catch wind of a sharp knife, then the following season they will remain submerged and no longer sprout. Thus, on hard soil, bamboo and wooden sticks are used to dig out the mushrooms. The mushrooms, having been picked and brought home, just need to be soaked in salted water and cleaned of the dirt that sticks to them. They need to be cleaned delicately to avoid breaking or smooshing, which would ruin their sweetness. The most delicious kind of mushrooms is those that have just burst open in the morning. They are very fresh and their stalks are firm. This is the most ideal sort of mushroom for preparing food dishes. The mushrooms cannot be cultivated, so often times they are difficult to buy even when money avails. Termite mushrooms are regarded as valuable, rare specialties of the countryside. With their delicate natural sweetness and characteristic aroma, termite mushrooms can be made into many delicious, nourishing dishes like mushrooms

stir-fried in fat, simmered in premna leaves (lá cách), stuffed into bánh xèo (rice-pancakes), or made into a soup with assorted vegetables. Every year during the Doan Ngo Festival (on the 5th day of the 5th lunar month) in the countryside, families usually gather together with relatives and their children to make bánh xèo to eat and enjoy. Notably, this is the point in time when termite mushrooms are in season. The bánh xèo are stuffed with greasyback shrimp, mung bean, and extremely tasty, sweet-smelling mushrooms. They are eaten with household garden vegetables. Anyone who savours them once will remember them forever. The people insistently treat termite mushrooms as a top-grade delicacy that needs only to be stirfried in fat to retain its original sweetness and aroma without the need for additional meat or fish. For perfectly ripe mushrooms seasoned with scallions, remember to drop them in immediately, sprinkle in some pepper, and, in that way,

relish this dish bestowed by nature. Besides that, termite mushrooms are further made into fish, meat, and chicken porridge. The tastiest, however, is toad porridge cooked with termite mushrooms. In the drizzling rain during evenings in the countryside, toads leap out in search of food. Once caught, the toad is butchered and thoroughly cleaned. All of the internal organs are removed, retaining only the meat, which is finely ground. The toad meat is then taken to prepare a well-cooked porridge, after which the termite mushrooms are put in. According to common folk, toad and termite mushroom porridge with scallions and pepper is beneficial to one’s health. Children who eat it will avoid getting rickets, and it cools excess heat. As for adults, it is a nutritional supplement. Besides, the broth cooked by amassing various kinds of sweet leaf (sauropus androgynous), pennywort (centella asiatica), amaranth, and premna leaves from the garden, along with termite mushrooms, is impeccable.n

vietnam heritage - june-july 2014

• 17


The Lady of the Land By Tan Duc


uarding the entrance to the Seven Mounts area for many years, the Temple of the Lady of the Land on Sam Mountain, Chau Doc, An Giang Province, Mekong Delta, receives over three million visitors each year. People come to visit Her with reverence for the legends around the origins of Her statue and the 200-year-old temple. Late in the 4th lunar month (21-25 May, 2014) festivities at the Lady’s Temple are at peak. Vehicles from many provinces in the country pour in. People burn incense and pray in the main temple, then spread out to other, no less famous historical vestiges: The tomb of Thoai Ngoc Marquis, Tay An Pagoda, Cave Pagoda, and others. A motorbike taxi driver, named Thanh, who was stationed opposite the temple, invited me on a tour of Sam Mountain, Rendezvous Garden, the Bastion, the place She sat… all for two dollars, round trip. On the way, Thanh told me tales about Her: 200 years ago, She sat on the mountain top. Once, a group of foreign bad guys came to cause havoc. They saw Her statue, got greedy and tried to steal it. As the thieves moved Her just a short distance, She miraculously became immovably heavy. They got mad and smashed the statue with sticks and broke one of Her arms and left. The marks of restoration can still be seen. Right after that, She entered a

A goddess’ legend grows with time and devotion

Chau Doc Province

18 • vietnam heritage - june-july 2014

young girl near the mountain. She claimed to be the Sacred Lady and told the villagers to send nine virgin girls to come with a palanquin to receive Her. Indeed, when the girls came with a palanquin, She was as light as a cotton flake. The procession went down the mountain, but when they came to where the temple is now, they couldn’t move Her any more. So the villagers built Her temple there. That’s a story Thanh knows by heart after years of taking part in staging the scene of the procession to get Her down to the temple. His grandfather, who was on the board of tomb and temple management before 1975, heard it differently. In

early 19th century, the King commissioned Thoai Ngoc Marquis to fight the enemy on the border and to build Vinh Te Canal. At home, his wife, Madam Chau Thi Te, was worried. Everyday she came to the Lady’s statue to pray for her husband and his men to be safe and to accomplish their mission soon. When Thoai Ngoc Marquis came home victoriously, Madam Te had the villagers bring the Lady in a procession and build a temple to worship Her. ‘The Viet people worship mostly female deities, and maybe the Lady of the Land was an idea of Thoai Ngoc Marquis. In the situation where miasma and epidemics erode

religion people’s physical and mental wellbeing, Thoai Ngoc Marquis moved the statue down from the mountain and built the temple for the Lady, to make the people feel protected and blessed by a supernatural power, so they would be more confident and united to overcome hardships and build a happy life on the frontier,’ Dr. Lam Quang Lang, deputy head of the Dept of Culture, Sport and Tourism, vice chairman of the Association of Historians of An Giang Province told me. Whatever the case, all of the different versions share some facts: the Lady’s statue is an ancient relic, brought here by boat and installed at the top of Sam Mountain. Mr Thai Cong No, deputy head of board of Sam Mountain tomb and temple management, has an intriguing material: ‘In 1941, a French archaeologist named Louis Malleret came to the temple and meticulously studied the statue and published his conclusion: This is a high-artistic value statue of Vishnu, sitting and contemplating noble thoughts, made of red limestone in late 6th century.’ In his research work ‘Mekong river delta – old lifestyles’ (Tre Publishing House), writer Son Nam also remarked: ‘The Lady’s statue is actually a male statue that the Khmer people left since ancient times at the top of Sam mountain. The Viet people moved it into the temple, painted it as a woman in silk dress, wearing a necklace. From that time, the Lady of the Land became a powerful deity.’ Following the lead of materials one can’t help shuddering at the hypothesis that ‘the Lady’ statue in the temple is actually a male statue! One document even describes it in details: ‘In reality, the Lady’s statue is a stone statue depicting a man in sitting position, his right leg bent at the knee, his foot propped directly

against the stone pedestal.’ Historian Tran Van Dung, deputy head of bureau of propaganda, Chau Doc city Party Committee, An Giang Province, and author of the scientific research work ‘History of ground breaking of Chau Doc area’ (1757-1857) asserted: ‘The Lady of the Land statue is in reality a male statue in a regal sitting posture!’ There was a rumour that the Lady’s statue grew bigger and taller

over time. Somebody even said it was impossible to take the statue’s photo: only a white silhouette appears in the picture. ‘Many pilgrims from afar offer Her dresses and ask to put them on Her statue at once so they could pray. Layer after layer has been put on Her, making some think that Her statue grew bigger,’ Mr Thai Cong No explained.n A Vietnamese version of the article was published on Tuoi Tre in May, 2013

Opposite: Lady of the Land statue. Photo: Trung Nam. Above: Temple of the Lady of the Land on Sam Mountain, Chau Doc, An Giang Province. Below:The site where the Lady of the Land sits before She was moved to current temple, also on Sam Mountain. Photos: Tan Duc

vietnam heritage - june-july 2014

• 19


Beekeepers have a sweet and stinging life TexT and phoTos by pham Cong hoan


Mr Liu

oney from wild bees of the northwest has been well-known as a scrumptious specialty since the olden days. Knowing that I was inquiring about honey from wild bees, some men in the town of Bac Yen, Bac Yen District, Son La Province introduced me to Mr Nguyen Van Liu, an 30-year veteran of domesticating wild bees in the area. When I arrived, he was not at home; his grandchildren said that he was going around the neighbourhood to seek for ‘swarming bees’. He explained: ‘Around the third month in lunar calendar every year, worker bees seek a place for the whole colony to make hives and avoid the rainy season or to move the colony from the nest they are living in; that’s why they’re called “swarming bees.”’ At this point, wild bee tamers use rackets to catch swarming bees and drop them in crates they have prepared beforehand. If the bees trapped in the crates find the conditions suitable, they will fly back and invite their colony to reside in the crates. Typically, the bees will be back after about two to five hours from the time they fly away to invite their colony. According to Mr Liu, wild bees love clean environments, so if the boxes and apiaries are dirty or have

20 • vietnam heritage - june-july 2014

any ants or cockroaches, they certainly do not live in there. In addition, the boxes have to be in dry and shady locations. When I asked about the number of domesticated bees in Bac Yen District, Mr Liu said that the number might be up to hundreds of bee colonies. Those beekeeping veterans who are as skilful as Mr Liu in Bac Yen are Mr Trinh Xuan Thuc and Lo Van Inh; their bee colonies are up to 20 to 30 hives. The number of families with three to four bee colonies is larger. Each colony can give from three to five liters of honey per year, which brings decent extra incomes for the tamersaround VND4 to 5 million per year. The difficulties in beekeeping are cultivating techniques. The farmers must understand the noises emanating from the bee boxes; if the flapping sound of their wings is strong and loud, it means that the honey is full and needs to be collected, or otherwise the bees will be hot. In the rainy season, if it is not urgent, the honey is not harvested, because at that time, the honey’s density is often diluted with rainwater. If the bees are noticed flying in and out erratically, the hives should be checked for fungus or mold. It is dangerous if the boxes have ants or cockroaches because the bees can leave at any time. When the farmers check the colonies and detect that the number of colonies is large, they have to use a queen bee to separate the bees into different colonies, otherwise, if they let the bees separate by

themselves, they will fly away immediately. When separated, the healthy worker bees all swarm to the new colony. Where bees are separated suddenly from their colonies, sandy soil or water should be sprayed onto the centre of the colony so that the bees concentrate on a certain location. Waiting for the new queen bee to crawl out and check the number of the bees, the farmers capture it in the box again so that the bees split into new colonies. In Bac Yen, there have been many times when the bees got angry, causing the beekeepers to flee their homes for weeks before daring to return. Mr Vu Ngoc Hung once separated the bee colonies, but unfortunately, about three weeks afterwards, the queen bee was dead, and the bee colony flew straight into his house, gathered in the rafters and began to attack the residents in the house. His family was so dismayed that they had to flee to a neighbour’s house and stayed there for weeks until the bees dispersed. Wild bees are declining rapidly due to deforestation and crop spraying, especially herbicides, which poison the bees. During cultivation seasons, beekeepers have to keep their bees inside so that they do not fly away to collect pollen and nectar for fear of being poisoned. In addition, some Hmong people pump smoke into the hives to collect the honey, irritating the bees.n

travel binh duong

River trip brings plenty of local flavour TexT and phoTos by dang Khoa


Binh Duong Province

n April, 2013, I was invited by Vietmark Company to join them in an exploratory tour in Binh Duong, which is 60 kilometres northeast of Saigon. After three hours of travelling, the 40seat bus brought us to a remote area of Tan Dinh Commune, Tan Uyen District, Binh Duong Province. Getting off the vehicle, we were divided into three teams, with a mountain bike for each member. Our team had twelve, biking on a soiled path

22 • vietnam heritage - june-july 2014

winding through many low hills and valleys. On the sides of the path were scattered farms and barren forests. The heat at 10: 30 a.m. in the middle of the dry season made us profusely damp with sweat. After conquering 5.5 kilometres, we gathered to rest in a rubber forest on the bank of the Song Be River. ‘This river flows through three provinces: Binh Phuoc, Binh Duong and Dong Nai, passing

through forests,’ said the marketing manager of Vietmark Company and master of geomorphology. After watching the workers collecting liquid rubber, we used trees and canvas ropes to tie four big plastic floats five metres long into a raft. Putting on the lifebuoys, we got on the raft and took turns to row it. We sailed along the gentle waters of the river, which wound through the endless forests and scattered farms on its banks.

travel binh duong The river was about 200 metres in width and from 7 to 30 metres in depth; the raft went fast when it encountered rapids. We passed through the rapids in anxiety and joy. At noon, we arrived at a cashew plantation adjacent to the river, which was 2.4 kilometres from the starting point. The farm owners brought out two chickens, a plate of raw and fresh shrimp and various vegetables. ‘My garden is large, it has an area of 4 ha and I have raised many chickens, so eat to your heart’s content,’ the host said, beaming. We built a fire in the middle of the cashew garden to grill the chicken and shrimp and then ate them with bread and vegetables. The farm owner, named Bay, said that it was the first time he received tourists to his farm, and then he excitedly said: ‘You are visiting such a deserted and remote placewhat a happy day for us! From now on, if you have any orders, I’m willing to serve dishes made from chicken raised in the garden and fish or shrimp caught from the river.’ Fully fed and contently rested on hammocks, we got on the raft again and followed the flow downstream about 500 metres and landed on the right bank of the river. A ways off from the river bank, we saw the Green Eye Resort with many bungalows at the centre of a large farm. In reply to my question whether it was difficult for the resort to attract guests when it was located at such an isolated region, the resort farm owner named Nguyen Tran Khanh said: ‘I built this because I owed this land. I used to fight in the war here, my boot prints were left everywhere in the Đ military zone of the forest.’ After introducing the resort farm with an area of 60 ha, the vet-

eran spent over one hour telling of many bloody battles and the cases when he narrowly escaped from the death in the Đ military zone forest. Đ military zone was the headquarters of the communists in the southern region, which was built in February 1946 in a forest in Tan Uyen District of Binh Duong Province. Initially, Đ military zone was the command base against the French. During the Vietnam War, Đ military zone was increasingly expanded, including the areas of seven eastern provinces of the south. However the war went, there were many bloody battles occurring at Đ military zone, which earned its name as ‘the land of death’. Today, Đ military zone has changed a lot, since many urban areas appeared while few spots were preserved. The most famous preserved area was the head centre, where many senior communist leaders had taken shelter. The centre was about 10 kilometres from the Green Eye Resort. We made a tour around the farm, where many trees like rubber, trôm (Sterculia lychnophora), cassava, mango, jackfruit, papaya, and dragon fruit were planted; animals like wild boars, stags were raised and various vegetables were grown. ‘Visitors can take care of the vegetable garden or pick the vegetables and cook them by themselves. If they want to eat any fruits, they can fetch them in the garden, they can choose the wild boar they want and ask the staff to help them make the dishes,’ the farm manager named Phat said. In the afternoon, we enjoyed grilled wild boar meat with beer in a meadow near the river bank. If you visit it and bring a hammock, a sleeping bag or a tourist tent along with you, you can sleep for free in the garden, meadow or café in the resort.n

Vietmark Company is headquartered at 55/24 Tran Dinh Xu Street, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City; Tel: (84.8) 54.045.404; Email :, Website:

vietnam heritage - june-july 2014

• 23


Left: Door deities at Bac De Pagoda, Rach Gia, Kien Giang Province, Mekong Delta Right: Door deities at Nghia An clan House, Dist.5, Ho Chi Minh City Photos: Nguyen Thai Hoa

Deities on the doorstep By NguyeN Thai hoa


oor deities, or Mon Than, in Vietnamese, are conceived of in the Chinese belief system as guardian spirits and pervaders of peace and good fortune for the household. The door is an indespensible part of a home, with an intimate relationship with household life. Since times long ago, the door was esteemed for its importance and this gradually evolved into worshipping door spirits or door deities. In China, during the early Zhou Dynasty (c.1046-256 B.C.E.), already the custom of making offerings to the door had appeared. Later, sacrifices to the door deities were organized in the ninth lunar month. At that time, 24 • vietnam heritage - june-july 2014

the people had already finished the grain harvest and so proceeded with the sacrifice ritual to ask door deities to come protect them. When the Chinese emigrated to Vietnam, they brought their traditions along, among them the worshipping these threshold guardians. The two door deities that are most prevalently worshipped are Qin Qiong (a.k.a. Qin Shubao, d.638), and Yuchi Jingde (a.k.a Yuchi Gong, 585-658). Legend has it that the health of Emperor Taizong (r. 626-649) of the Tang Dynasty was not good. The emperor often heard wailing ghosts at the door of the imperial bed chamber. Qin Shubao and Yuchi Gong,

both generals, thus came to keep vigil at the sides of the chamber door and the whole night passed peacefully without incident. Taizong felt that for the two generals to keep vigil at the chamber door was too burdensome, so he ordered that images of the two generals be painted with menacing figures — in which their hands clenched axes and they bore whips and bows and arrows on their backs — and that they be attached to the sides of the chamber door. The two of them were thereafter granted imperial investiture as deities. By the time of the Nguyen Dynasty (beginning in the early ninteenth-century) this custom began to become prevalent among the common masses.n



Lavish luxury awaits at Indochine Palace


urrounded by lush green gardens, the BW Premier Indochine Palace has set a new standard in excellence that is difficult to match. The worldclass hotel is designed to appeal to the affluent leisure or business traveler and offers excellent facilities for MICE events. Indochine Palace has 222 rooms. Rooms on the Palace floors are designed with the opulence and subdued elegance of a Noble House. They boast spacious and luxurious, yet cosy and comfortable rooms. The Indochine floors are effectively a hotel-within-a-hotel, with their own check-in and luxury lounge that includes a library and cushy lounge chairs. The one-bedroom suites, two-bedroom suites and Indochine Grand suites are fit for the most discerning guest, extending throughout one half of their floors and featuring a kitchen, three bedrooms and their own butler team. The graphics on every item in the room, from specially-designed matchboxes to the in-room dining

menu, reflect the attention to detail found at Indochine Palace. The restaurants at Indochine Palace are simply fabulous. Located on the first floor, Le Petit Café has an integrated bakery for where guests can enjoy snacks, bakery items, ice cream, fruit juice, soft drinks and café specialties. The Au Rendezvous lounge, also located on the first floor, is set in the lobby area and has a classic design dedicated to Queen Nam Phuong. Served by waitresses wearing the traditional ao dai, the lounge is an ideal venue for guests, where they can actively participate in the action in the hotel lobby. It is the perfect place to gather before, in between or after a banquet function or dinner. La Brasserie is a full-service dining restaurant. The elegant restaurant overlooks the pool and gardens, and its pleasant ambience reflects the architectural design of the hotel. The Brasserie features an open kitchen. Guests staying at Indochine Palace can make an in-room dining order by telephoning the room serv-

ice staff. Indochine Palace also has Le Club Indochine, located on the seventeenth floor, which offers a lounge style venue and provides an all-day, relaxing setting, with business services including internet access, as well as breakfast, snacks and drinks all day. Guests can also enjoy a drink with a stunning view over Hue city. Around 30 kilometers from the hotel are a number of famous destinations suitable for a short trip, such as Thien Mu pagoda, Thuan An beach and Hue’s Royal tombs. When in Hue, you just can’t go wrong with Indochine Palace. It’s a true five-star hotel by international standards, but at a reasonable price.n

BW Premier Indochine Palace 105A Hung Vuong St,Hue, Tel: 054 3936 666

vietnam heritage - june-july 2014

• 25


My Thien - Chau O ceramic vases

The last of the ceramics artisans TexT and phoTo by huynh Van My


ver 200 years old, My Thien - Chau O, in Binh Sơn District, Quang Ngai Province, is a village, famous in Central Vietnam and Central Highlands for ceramic products. Withstanding the tides of new industrial products that led to the extinction of many ceramic villages, My Thien - Chau O ceramics still retains its modest foothold in the market, due to unique features. Sitting near 1A National Highway, 20 kilometres to the south of Quang Ngai City, My Thien - Chau O is conveniently located for production and transportation of goods to trading sites. ‘In the past, 26 • vietnam heritage - june-july 2014

the traders came to grab our produce directly from the kilns. Beside the areas of Quang Ngai, Quang Nam and Binh Dinh, My Thien Chau O ceramics was well known as far as in Hue, Quang Tri, and the Central Highlands’, Mr Dang Van Trinh, 51, the village ceramics artisan, said. Mr Lam Du Xenh, a famous antique collector and a Chau O dweller, thinks that My Thien Chau O ceramics made it as far as China for sale by some Chinese who lived in Chau O. ‘Although there are plenty of ceramic goods there (in China), but the things we made had a particular beauty, shape and style and were strong and cheap. So, as

my dad told me, every time they went home, the Chinese who settled here, always brought My Thien - Chau O goods as gift to their relatives there or to sell.’ Mr Xenh said. According to him, the fact that the village goods reached far was due to waterways. A canal was dug to let traders’ boats from Chau O River into the village to get the merchandise. Having collected My Thien Chau O ceramics for over 15 years, Mr Xenh has hundreds of ‘antique’ artefacts from the village. In the eyes of a keen antique collector, he said, the earthenware and enamel of this village are quite unique, giving a special touch to the products,

craft attracting buyers and creating fame for the village that lasts even to this day. My Thien Chau O ceramic containers such as pots, jars and basins, especially the big ones, have delicately beautiful shapes, styles, colors and ornaments, and are strong and long-lasting. Dr. Doan Ngoc Khoi, a historian and vice-director of the Museum of Quang Ngai Province, who spent many years researching Chau O My Thien ceramics, thinks that the sturdiness of the village earthenware is due to the technique of mixing local clay and silt, then burning the ceramics in closed kilns for three days and nights. The colour of these materials, together with the temperature, has given the products a rich variation of colours as well as the natural glossiness, which makes My Thien - Chau O ceramics so unique. Artisan Dang Van Trinh recalls how happy Mr and Mrs Louis Cost - Leedom Lefferts, specialists from American Freer Gallery of Art and Arthur M. Sackler Gallery, were when they found their way to his kiln in 2007 to study and confirm that a ceramic jar they had in their museum in the US was, in fact, an orig-

inal product of My Thien - Chau O. ‘They said they had visited ceramic trading villages from the north to the south of Vietnam before finally reaching My Thien - Chau O to confirm the origin of the jar. They valued that jar because they thought My Thien - Chau O earthenware was sturdy, had beautiful colours and shapes, and glossy skin without the need for enamels.’ Mr Trinh told us. With regard to enamel products, the enamel used in My Thien - Chau O ceramics is a kind of light fire-coated enamel, rich in colours and designs, especially on the items with reliefs on the surface. The ceramics have to be burnt in a closed kiln, taken out to be enamel-coated, and then burnt a second time in an open fire. The colours can be preciously golden, elegantly blue, freshly green, or combined into many others. ‘Notably, the enamel colour can be very versatile during the bake, creating distinct variations and nuances on each item. That’s what makes My Thien - Chau O ceramics so unique.’ Dr. Khoi remarked. There may also be verses or notes of the

Hotline: 0917288211 (Mr. Quang)

time of production written on My Thien Chau O enameled ceramics. After the war ended in 1975, there was an attempt to revive the village’s craft through a cooperative. The cooperative fell apart after six or seven years, and then only six families maintained their kilns until 1992. As business was bad, five of them gave up, and only artisan Dang Van Trinh still keeps it going. ‘It takes big capital, and the margin is low. As the land now is given to the farmers, we don’t have the materials needed. Making money is now much easier in other professions, so the young ones are not keen to learn the art of ceramics making. The artisans are now all old; nobody wants to reopen their kiln. It worries me about the preservation of our ancestors’ craft.’ said artisan Trinh, keeper of all the secrets of the ceramics of the village. Dr. Nguyen Dang Vu, Director of the Department of Culture of Quang Ngai Province said that the department is working on a project to ask for government’s budget to assist the preservation of the ceramic craft of My Thien - Chau O.n

restaurant advertorial

Vietnamese Cuisine, Heritage and Herefordshire! By PiP de RouvRay


ong Khoi Street, with its classic hotels, cafes, restaurants and specialist shops, is one of the most well-known of Ho Chi Minh City's downtown thoroughfares. Having opened only this April, the latest arrival at 23 is the ‘Kim Lam’, a traditional Vietnamese restaurant. The proprietors are not starting from scratch, however, being part of the same group as the well-established ‘Maxim's’ a few doors down. The front door decorated in red and black looks like a miniature portal of Hue's Citadel. Do not be fooled by the small size of the exterior. Inside, there are three levels of dining area, with a seating capacity of one hundred and twenty. Furthermore, this is a treasure trove of Vietnamese culture, packed as it is with glazed ceramics, wickerwork candelabra holders, birdcages, tropical hardwood screens, huge jars, a bronze bell and a massive Khmer bust among other objects d'art. The ‘Kim Lam’ has the perfect atmos28 • vietnam heritage - june-july 2014

phere in which to enjoy the very best of Vietnamese cuisine from the North, Centre and South. An amazing and unique bonus is that this place allows one to wash down their gorgeous dishes with the finest of English ciders from that quiet rural county of Herefordshire. Quite a fine marriage these two make, I discovered the other evening when I went there to dine with my teenage daughter, Angela. This is fine dining. No matter what the regional origin of the dishes, they are all served in the Imperial Hue style. Forget the Western three-course meals. Here, you have to order quite a few dishes. The servings are quite small, as you are meant to savour the food. You fill up at the end with rice. The other point, too, is the artistic garnishing. Each dish here comes with a unique carving out of carrots. We had carrot fashioned into a bird, a flower, a fish and even a cyclo! It all added fun to the evening. We had trouble selecting from the rather extensive menu, but the very professional Captain,

Ong Cao Quoc Thai, proved to be a shrewd guide. Passing through a hallway containing the bar, we sat down in a cavernous dining room with a cream-coloured stucco frieze on one wall, hanging gardens on others and way up on the ceilings, skylights revealing the black of the night. If your evening is a romantic one, there are intimate tables with tall wicker chairs to provide a comfortable tetea-tete. First up, my daughter insisted, had to be soup. We chose the seafood scallop soup, which proved to be an excellent appetiser. Then came a scrumptious serving of young banana flower with chicken salad. This was followed by a squid dish called ‘Royal Calamari’. Served with a small salad, this came as a roll with duck egg in the mix and bread crumbed on the outside. It looked and tasted like a Scotch egg. No matter how long you have been in Vietnam, you are sure to find something new at ‘Kim Lam’ with its innovative chefs. Also new for me was

the crab with passion fruit sauce. The last dish was a portion of grilled Asian sea bass (ca chem), the barramundi fish of which Australians are fond-a tasty morsel indeed to round off the samplings. The final gaps in the stomach were filled with lemongrass flavoured steamed rice and spinach. I had just enough room for a third bottle of Henry Weston Medium Sweet Cider. It was the perfect accompaniment to Vietnamese food, except for the moment when I accidentally bit into a red hot chili! My daughter had craftily left enough room for a dessert. She chose the doublescoop vanilla ice cream with French banana crepes in honey sauce, awarding it ten out of ten upon completion. Whichever setting in which you chose to eat from-street food to the family diner to fine restaurants, Vietnam offers plenty of places to eat well. But for a cultural experience and to witness

the heights to which Vietnamese cuisine can reach, I do recommend at least once on your holiday you splurge in a place like the ‘Kim Lam’. If you are a resident in the country, the ‘Kim Lam’ is also the place to take visiting friends or business colleagues to enhance their gastronomic and cultural appreciation of Vietnam. Long live Vietnamese food and may God bless the sweet green apples of Herefordshire. The dishes quoted in this article ranged in price from VND85,000 to VND250,000 plus government taxes. The English medium sweet cider was at VND150,000++ for a half litre bottle.n

Kim Lam Vietnamese Cuisine Restaurant 23 Dong Khoi St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 6299-0879 Open daily for lunch and dinner.

Photo: Lang Viet Restaurant


Dinner & puppets: an enchanting evening By Tu Anh


was excited to attend a water puppet show, as I had never seen one before. In Saigon, there are not many places where one can see the performing of water puppetry. That’s one of the reasons Mr Le Trong Khang, the owner of Lang Viet Restaurant, was determined to bring water puppet shows to his restaurant in April of this year. He wanted water puppetry to become familiar with young Vietnamese and foreigners and he wanted to add to the short list of entertainment places for tourists in Saigon. Pham Ngoc Thach Street is crowded with restaurants and coffee shops, but it is easy to recognize the Lang Viet Restaurant’s façade, which features a northern Vietnamstyle village gate with two-metre puppets in front. Water puppetry was developed in Northern Vietnam in the 11th-12th centuries. Taking a leaflet, I saw the titles of 14 acts in a show performed once a day at 6.15 p.m. The show lasts 45 minutes. The ticket costs VND150,000. The theatre is a 250 square metre room which can hold 102 people. The room has no chairs, so I, three other Vietnamese and 30 • vietnam heritage - june-july 2014

a group of 14 Japanese tourists, sat on wooden steps, separated from the stage of murky water. The façade of a shrine was built on the stage. Bamboo curtains were used to cover the backstage, where puppeteers did their magic to give souls to wooden puppets, making them move easily and rhythmically on the stage. A female chèo singer and artists playing musical instruments such as drum, flute, wooden fish, gong, two-string violin sat on the two sides of the stage. The lights went out. The musicians started playing. This was the first time I had heard chèo music; my hair stood on end and I didn’t understand the lyrics very well, but gradually I became fascinated by the singer’s voice and the sounds from the instruments. The show could be easily understood. Most of the acts depicted humorous stories in the daily lives of famers. A scene accompanied with bamboo flute played by a herdsman showed buffaloes ploughing, peasants sowing rice seeds and then suddenly, a green rice field emerged from underwater and famers happily looked after

their field in the rain. In another scene, two men on a small fishing boat appeared on a river full of fish. One was rowing the boat and the other was holding a pipe and smoking. It surprised me when the man blew out a stream of smoke from his mouth. Some acts depicted the lion dance, dragon dance, phoenix dance and fairy dance. They were outstanding. I loved the phoenix dance; a couple dancing to seduce each other. When both of them went underwater and came out, an egg emerged. The couple repeated the action and this time baby phoenixes were born. The more I watched the acts the more I was interested in them. I and the audience laughed and clapped loudly after each. People can go to Lang Viet and watch puppetry without eating a meal, but the food is well worth it. Lang Viet Restaurant has nearly 50 Vietnamese dishes on the menu and cooks are ready to prepare other dishes if guests request. The waiter enthusiastically introduced specialities of the restaurant. I did not want to choose familiar dishes such as spring roll, assorted rice cakes, fresh rice vermicelli with spring roll and grilled pork, pho or bun bo Hue. I ordered ‘Crispy morning glory salad with shrimp and mango’ for VND165, 000. I rarely see this dish on the menu at other restaurants. It was so delicious. Though the ingredients were common, the cook cleverly combined them to give a new flavour; fried morning glory mixed with thin strips of mango, shrimp and sauce. Next, I tried ‘Steam escargot soup Hanoi style’ for VND135,000, ‘Over-baked baby clams with salty egg’, (VND135,000), and ‘Pork ear meat salad,’ (VND135, 000,) with pork ear meat and vegetables, rolled together in rice paper and then dipped in fish sauce. Although I was full, I could not resist the dessert ‘Lotus and longan sweet soup’ for VND35,000. This dish is a specialty of Hue and a good choice for hot days. The restaurant also serves Vietnamese buffet, including 35 dishes at VND350,000 per person.n

Lang Viet Restaurant 36 Pham Ngoc Thach St, Dist.3, HCMC. Tel: 0903955634

hotel advertorial

Sofitel's sweet songbird

Photo: Sofitel Saigon Plaza

By Ritch Pickens

French jazz diva soothes the savage beast


it in the lobby of an international hotel like the Sofitel Saigon Plaza for any length of time and you are sure to see people from all over the world and hear many tongues. All of them have come seeking peace, rest and comfort, confident that this is the place to find such things. May was a turbulent month for East Asia and for Vietnam in particular. But it was also the month when a true nightingale flew in from France in the form of Miss Gabrielle to start her two months of soirees at the Boudoir Lounge with harmony and melodies to soothe even the

32 • vietnam heritage - june-july 2014

most ruffled of feathers. My editor and I were invited to a press preview performance. I arrived early enough to almost bump into a gentleman carrying what appeared to be from my angle, a flute. ‘You must be the flautist,’ I enquired. ‘No this is a saxophone,’ he said, giving me a clearer view of the instrument. His name is Giorgio Ventura and he hails from Italy. We engaged in a conversation broaching many subjects, but the most interesting thing was that he admitted that having only just met Gabrielle, he was not quite sure how he was going to accompany her singing and piano playing. Seated at the grand piano in her stunning bright red dress, Mademoiselle Gabrielle looked the star even before she wowed us all with a perfect rendition of the French standard, ‘La Vie en Rose’. She went on to sing two other familiar jazz era songs, eerily reminding one of Billie Holiday, whom we were told is one of her heroes. Her final rendition was a song I have long loved – ‘Autumn Leaves’. This was made famous to me by one of the most beautiful voices ever-that of Nat King Cole. His is a hard act to match, but Gabrielle, every bit as mellifluous in English as in her native tongue, proved to be Nat's female peer. I had not realised she could have sung it in French, as I now learn this song has a Hungarian-French composer and the original title is ‘Les Feuilles Mortes’ (The Dead Leaves). Giorgio need not have been apprehensive. Dressed in a simple white shirt, he was at pains not to steal the sartorial limelight from

Gabrielle. The two harmonised together intuitively and I noticed Gabrielle at times casting him little glances of approval. Giorgio's playing provided the perfect complement to the piano and jazz singing. Having said that, he achieved the beautiful chalumeau register more normally affected by the clarinet, and played so hauntingly that it is clear the gentleman deserves a show of his own. Later, seated at a table with the two performers, I posed a question to Gabrielle put forward by my editor. ‘Are you going to learn to sing a Vietnamese song?’ I asked her. Could you suggest one to me?’ she replied. I proposed the muchbeloved standard from my wife's home town – ‘Mua Tren Pho Hue’. (‘It is raining in Hue’). So, I strongly urge you over the remaining time that Gabrielle is in town to book your table at the Boudoir. You and your company will be in for a soothing, relaxing evening of easy listening delivered by a faultless diva and pianist. In these soirees, Sofitel melds French, Italian and Vietnamese to send a message of peaceful harmony and through the medium of music will hopefully help to build a bridge over troubled East Asian waters. Gabrielle Jenselme, a French classical pianist and jazz singer, performs nightly at Sofitel Saigon Plaza's Boudoir Lounge until 20 July, 2014.n

Sofitel Saigon Plaza 17 Le Duan St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: 3824-1555

what the papers say

The road to war, 23 May Prime Minister Nguyen Tan Dung said that Vietnam would resolutely defend its sovereignty and legitimate interests, including its maritime zones and islands, because that sovereignty is sacred. The PM made the statement in response to questions from the Associated Press and Reuters on the current developments in the East Sea, and Vietnam's measures following China's illegal deployment of an oil rig in Vietnam's exclusive economic zone. ‘There is a vast gap between the words and deeds of China,’ he said, adding that China's acts in Vietnam's waters in recent days were extremely dangerous and seriously threatened peace, stability, security, safety and freedom of navigation, co-operation and development in the region and the world. Vietnam was considering various defence options, including legal action, in accordance with international law, he said. Responding to a question on the possibility of Vietnam joining forces with an ally to deal with this situation, Dung said Vietnam would not join any military alliance against another country.

Conflict hurts tourism, 19 May Since 1 May, when China deployed the Haiyang Shiyou-981 oil rig in Vietnam's waters illegally, the number of 34 • vietnam heritage - june-july 2014

visitors from China has suddenly fallen. Many Vietnamese tourists had cancelled their trips to China and tourists from other countries were worrying about visiting Vietnam, said Nguyen Van Tuan, general director of Vietnam National Administration of Tourism. In a few localities such as the southern province of Khanh Hoa, some travel agencies, hotels and restaurants had announced that they would not serve Chinese guests. ‘We have directed localities and tourism enterprises to stop any such discrimination and to continue offering services to Chinese tourists and those who speak Chinese,’ he said.

Japan, VN cooperate in corruption, 12 May The Ministry of Public Security took into custody six railway officials in May on charges of ‘abusing power while on duty’ and ‘irresponsibility causing serious consequences’ following a one-month investigation. These include two deputy general directors of the Vietnam Railways Corporation. The public security ministry said the move was taken under the order of Prime Minister Nguyen Tan Dung to investigate allegations after a Japanese newspaper reported that a Tokyobased railway consulting firm had admitted to paying about $780,000 to win a $41 million railway project in Vietnam, funded by the Japanese government's official development assistance fund. The accused firm, Japan Transportation Consultants, Inc (JTC), was involved in the ongoing Hanoi City Urban Railway Construction Project (Line 1).

Sickness spreads, 19 May More than 9,000 cases of dengue fever had been recorded by mid May

in 42 cities and provinces across the country, the Ministry of Health's Department for Preventive Medicine reported. Of the cases, five have died in Ho Chi Minh City, southern Ca Mau, Binh Duong and Binh Phuoc provinces. The number of cases concentrated in the southern region with 83.3 per cent, followed by the central region with 12.9 per cent. On the same day, the ministry reported 20,500 cases of hand, foot and mouth disease across the nation.

Black boxes slow to take effect, 16 May Operators of buses, coaches and trucks were ordered to equip their vehicles with black boxes by March 1. But while these boxes are intended to transmit data to monitors at a centre run by the Transport Ministry, about 6,000 vehicles have not yet satisfied this condition. About 50,000 vehicles had black boxes. Many of the remaining vehicles had installed substandard products.

Lack of education causes abuse, 21 May The month of June will be devoted to a campaign to stop sex abuse and violence against children. The month, the idea of the Ministry of Labour, Invalids and Social Affairs, will feature a publicity drive and cultural and sporting events. Every year about 1,000 cases of child sex abuse are reported throughout Vietnam. More than 60 per cent of the victims said they had been raped, according to ministry statistics. Another three to four thousand cases of violence against children are also reported each year - and an average of 100 children die from their injuries, according to the Ministry of Public Security.


A M’nong woman in Dak Nong Province, Central Highlands, 2006 Photo from Vietnam Heritage Photo Awards 2013. Photo: Nguyen Hong Quang Phuong

So pho, so good, 21 May The name of the traditional Vietnamese noodle dish was recently added to one of the best-selling dictionaries in the US, MerriamWebster, its website announced. ‘Pho’ is defined in the dictionary as a soup made of beef or chicken broth and rice noodles. The word is among 150 new entries in the dictionary's online and print versions this year.

Industrialization needed, 19 May Science and technology must drive economic restructuring, Prime Minister Nguyen Tan Dung said in May. Dung said this was to improve productivity, quality and competitiveness so that the nation could quickly become industrialised. The PM was speaking in Hanoi at the launching of Vietnam National Science and Technology Day.

Smart Olympics, 19 May Vietnam won one gold medal at the 2014 Asian Physics Olympiad (AphO), which was held in Singapore from 11 to 19 May. The winner was Cao Ngoc Thai from the

Phan Boi Chau High School in the central province of Nghe An. This year, all eight members of the Vietnamese team won awards, including one gold, four silvers, two bronzes and one certificate of merit. The silver medallists are students from the University of Natural Sciences. At last year's AphO in Indonesia, Vietnamese students brought home two gold medals, two silvers, one bronze and three certificates of merit.

Songs of the Fatherland, 24 May POPS Worldwide, a mobile technology and service company based in Ho Chi Minh City, and a music partner of the YouTube network in Vietnam, is bringing cai luong (reformed opera) to the world via its YouTube channel. The programme is targeted at both overseas Vietnamese and international viewers. In early May, the company launched the first video of its programme, called Tim va Giu (Find and Keep), which includes five old songs, Tan Co Giao Duyen (Charming Exchanges between the Modern and Ancient) and extracts of classic cai luong. The programme's second video, Xuan Que

Huong (Spring in the Fatherland), is expected to be launched next year during the Lunar New Year holiday.

Never-never land, 19 May A team from US-based Warner Bros, has surveyed a cave at Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park in Quang Binh central province to select scenes for the upcoming film ‘Peter Pan.’ The Provincial Department of Foreign Affairs announced that the crew of 10 spent three days discovering the UNESCO-recognised En (Swallow) Cave, one of the park's resplendent spots, to find locations for the world-renowned fantasy-adventure film. In these possible shots, the film's protagonist Peter Pan will hover through the beautiful grotto and over magnificent mountain ranges and lush forests in the park. Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park, the UNESCO's World Heritage Site is well-known for its cave and grotto systems, comprising more than 300 caves with a total length of over 70km. Phong Nha holds several world cave records, as it boasts the longest underground river, as well as the largest caverns and passageways in the world.

vietnam heritage - june-july 2014

• 35

events HANOI TRADITIONAL PERFORMANCES Cheo singing performances

Cheo, a kind of popular opera / traditional music, is shown at 8 p.m. every Friday at the Kim Ma Theater, 71 Kim Ma St, Ba Dinh Dist., Hanoi. English interpretation offered. Price: VND150,000 per person. Tel: (04) 3764-8079/ 0904549-579 (Ms Ngoan)

Street songs of the poor and blind Every Saturday night Hát xẩm is a minimalist style of Vietnamese singing, traditionally performed by the poor and the blind and especially wanderers, usually accompanied with a simple đàn nhị (two-string violin) or đàn bầu (single-string zither). Hát xẩm is a Vietnamese blues from the 13th century. It is making a comeback, after several decades. Artists at the Centre for Research on and Development of Vietnamese Music now perform xẩm at Dong Xuan Market, in the Old Quarter of Hanoi, every Saturday night. Free. Ca truø

The Museum of Ethnology will hold water puppet performances at 10 a.m., 11.30 a.m., 2.30 p.m. and 4 p.m. every Saturday and Sunday in June, involving farmers from Chang Son commune in Hanoi’s Thach That District. An attractive element of water puppetry played in Chang Son is that performers use strings to control the puppets instead of rods. Before shows, they must practice for several months to be able to control the strings. The hardest technique is to control many puppets at the same time without tangling the strings. Museum of Ethnology, Nguyen Van Huyen Road, Cau Giay Dist. Admission is VND20,000 for adults, free for children.

Quan họ is a folk song form that originated in the northern province of Bac Ninh in the 13th century. The form took on elements of other genres as it spread throughout the country, incorporating a dialogue style of singing in the 18th century, the period when Vietnamese literature blossomed. As a folk art with a highly collective nature, Quan họ songs alternate from group to group with singers keeping up the conversation by exchanging songs. There is no accompanying instrumental music. Bac Ninh Quan Ho folk music company offers Quan họ performances on request; an hour costs around VND30 million. Performance venues can also be requested. Contact Mr Quy Trang, head of Bac Ninh Quan Ho folk music company, at mobile 0913-073-326.

Ancient Vietnamese songs A Ca Trù, an ancient Vietnamese song form, is performed by Hanoi Ca Tru Club at Kim Ngan Temple, 42-44 Hang Bac St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi, at 8 p.m. every Wednesday, Friday and Sunday. Tickets $10 (VND210,000). Contact: Ms Le Bach Van at 0913544876, Email: Water puppetry Saturdays and Sundays in June

36 • vietnam heritage - june-july 2014

Local art 29 June

EXHIBITIONS  Troubled bridge Until 25 June Dong Phong Art Gallery presents more than 30 artworks by Vietnamese artists until 29 June. The exhibition includes oil and acrylic paintings, mixed media art, ink sketches and digital art. This is an opportunity to see and acquire works, with prices from $50 to $500 (VND1,050,000 to VND10,500,000). Dong Phong Art Gallery, 3 Ly Dao Thanh St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi. Open: everyday from 9.30 a.m. to 6 p.m.

Ancient folk form

Ca trù, an ancient Vietnamese musical form with a singer accompanied by threestring đàn đáy and other instruments, is performed at 87 Ma May Street, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, at 8 p.m. every Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday, by artists from Ca Tru Thang Long Club, Price: $10 (VND210,000). Reservation is necessary. Tel: 01 223 266 897

displayed at the InterContinental Hanoi Westlake Hotel from 28 June to 13 July. The ‘Amazing Photo Tour’, featuring Manila and Cebu this year, aimed at providing useful tourism information about the land to travellers from Vietnam. InterContinental Hanoi Hotel, K5 Nghi Tam, Tay Ho Dist., Hanoi. Free entry.

112 paintings and 112 photos of Long Bien Bridge by 50 different artists are displayed until 25 June at Heritage Space, Dolphin Plaza, 28 Tran Binh St, My Dinh Ward, Hanoi. All of the artworks are by Vietnamese and international artists and show many different aspects of the bridge including history, love, war, peace, hopes and dreams. There will be a talk about solutions for restorations of the bridge. Filipino photos 28 June - 13 July A photo exhibition featuring famous tourism sites in the Philippines such as Santiago Fort, Malina Cathedral, St Augustine Church, Tall Lake and Tall Heritage Village taken by Vietnamese journalists during their visit entitled ‘Amazing Photo Tour’ organised by Travellive magazine will be

Dichotomy of modern Vietnamese life Until 30 June

The exhibition ‘Life: up and down’ is on till 30 June at L’Espace, 24 Trang Tien St, Hanoi. The exhibition displays paintings, photos and poetry by Eric Huynh, Marie-Cécile Marques and Ton That Thanh Van, featuring the contrast between the bustling streets and peaceful life of Viet-

events namese people. Some of them are ink paintings, painted on dó paper, by Marie-Cécile Marques combined with photos by Eric Huynh to show the inner and outer, noisiness and serenity. Little Prince Until 30 June

Sofitel Legend Metropole Hanoi, 15 Ngo Quyen St, Hanoi, is running an exhibition ‘Le Petit Prince’s Journey’, until 30 June, a story of a little boy fallen to Earth who encounters the strangeness of the adult world for the first time. The exhibition includes scans of original manuscript pages produced by the book’s, author, Antoine de Saint-Exupery, selections of artistic photography by Vincent Nguyen of locations around the world travelled by Saint-Exupéry, and a rare colour film of Saint-Exupéry in Canada in 1942 at work on Le Petit Prince. MUSIC Pockemon Crew: Silence on Tourne! 8 p.m., 14 June

The Hip Hop Dance World Champion Pockemon Crew will visit Vietnam with their newest creation - a dance entitled ‘Silence on Tourne!’ The crew, with nine dancers, explore two worlds

they love - cinema and the origins of the hip-hop movement. Silence on Tourne! is a glimpse of their home city, Lyon, where cinema was invented by the Lumière Brothers at the end of the 19th century. Through costumes inspired by classical film studios, the dancers bring the audience on a dance and musical journey with their impressive physical prowess. The performance will take place at 8 p.m. on 14 June at Youth Theatre, 11 Ngo Thi Nham St, Hai Ba Trung Dist., Hanoi. Tickets VND120,000, with L’Espace members and students enjoying half price. Celebration of Music 21 June A French music festival, ‘Fête de la Musique’ will be held from 5 p.m. on 21 June at Sofitel Legend Metropole Hanoi, 15 Ngo Quyen St, Hanoi. The event includes a Brazilian-style party, a fashion show introducing new summer collections from Double Dose and Chula, and performance by French DJ GiMix. German & Russian classical music 25 and 26 June Conductor Andrea Pestalozza and the artists of the Vietnam National Symphony Orchestra will perform pieces music by composer Alexander Scriabin, Richard Wagner and Johannes Brahms at 8 p.m. on 25 and 26 June at Hanoi Opera House, 1 Trang Tien St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi. Tickets from VND200,000 to VND500,000. Tickets are available at Hanoi Opera House or can book at for free delivery. Pop-rock night 26 June in Hanoi Mélissa Laveaux will perform a pop-rock concert in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City. The singer is currently reinventing herself without losing the unique identity that she displayed in her first acclaimed album (Camphor and Copper, 2008). In the wake of her first album, she moved to France. The young artist prefers the sophisticated energy of power pop. Her

lyrics are personal, her voice is still sensual and youthful, but the new arrangements place emphasis on rhythm and electronic sounds. The performances will take place at 8 p.m. on 26 June at L’Espace’s Convention Hall, 24 Trang Tien St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi. Tickets VND120,000, with L’Espace & Idecaf’s members and students enjoying half price. Youthful voices 16 July The Pacific Boys’ Choir Academy from the USA will perform a music night at 8 p.m. on 16 July at Worker Theatre. Pacific Boys’ Choir Academy was founded in 1998 with six boys and today comprises over 170 boys aged 418. The Pacific Boys’ Choir Academy has toured throughout the USA, Australia, New Zealand, Germany, Austria, Italy, the Czech Republic, France, Canada, Brazil, Denmark, South Africa, China, Lithuania, Latvia, Estonia, and Russia. Tickets: VND250,000, VND400,000 and VND600,000. Tickets are available at Hanoi Opera House, 1 Trang Tien St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi and Worker Theatre, 42 Trang Tien St, Hanoi or can book at for free delivery. THEATREW Contemporary Magic Performance 8 p.m., 21 June

For the first time, the French Contemporary Magic Performance Notte will perform for Vietnamese audiences at the Youth Theatre at 8 p.m. on 21 June. On stage are a man and a woman; a story about two different worlds that attract and repulse each

other, forever searching for balance. This hypnotic ballet is complemented by bright balls, leaving behind trails of light like meteors. The magic does the rest and these balls turn into the constellations and swirling galaxies. Venues; Youth Theatre, 11 Ngo Thi Nham St, Hai Ba Trung Dist., Hanoi; Tickets VND120,000, with L’Espace members & students enjoying half price. The border 8 p.m. on 28 June

A theatre performance entitled ‘Border’ by the French puppet company of Les Rémouleurs will be showcased at 8 p.m. on 28 June at l’Espace, 24 Trang Tien St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi. Les Rémouleurs, known for its creativity and stage machinery (puppet and Chinese shadow play) will cooperate with Thailand’s traditional puppet team (Ban Silpa Khang and Empty Space Chiang Mai) in this play. A traditional Thai nursery rhyme tells a story about one bird in search of a new nest. It will be performed with a long musical poem composed by two musicians: Francesco Pastacaldi, percussionist, and Ajan KB, flutist and multi-instrumentalist. Magic lanterns, phantasmagoria and other effects deeply scrutinize the wonders and woes of life. Ticket: VND120,000, with L’Espace members & students enjoying half price. OTHER To connect loves From 1 to 30 July ‘Hanh trinh xuyen Viet - Ket noi yeu thuong’ (Journey through Vietnam - To connect loves) will take place from 1 to 30 July. There will be 339 Vietnamese students

vietnam heritage - june-july

• 37


and internationals bicycling the same route: Hanoi-Ho Chi Minh City (1,800 km). They will ride their own bicycles from the North to the South, showing their spirit and love toward beautiful and peaceful Vietnam. The program includes charity activities for disadvantaged children in each province along the journey. Cyclists will eat and sleep in local pagodas for free. Contact: Mr Tuan Anh, tel: (04) 62662043, email:,

Anh describes the works as a ‘search for a triumph of sensation over concept’. The title of the exhibition poses itself as a riddle and alludes to some of the diverse ideas, concepts and sources of inspiration for the artist, which range from art and human history to the history of representation and contemporary popular culture. Galerie Quynh, 65 De Tham St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City. Tel: (08) 3836-8019 Open: 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. Tuesday to Saturday. Blown in the wind Until 26 June

HO CHI  MINH CITY EXHIBITIONS  Post-modern art Until 19 July

‘oNiReaKHoWaRiGNoRaLiSMe’ is the title of Truc Anh’s second solo exhibition at Quynh Gallerie until 19 July. This new body of work draws from the artist’s continued interest in the dichotomy of belief and disbelief, of certainty and doubt, reality and imagination, and the ambiguity of chaos. His oeuvre destabilizes the viewer, creating a sense of vertigo akin to the irrationality of dreams, and plays on the ability to see, observe, recognize and abandon our worldly knowledge and rational perception. Truc

Six young painters including Ho Van Hung, Truong The Linh, Nguyen An, Tran The Vinh, Vu Duy Tan and Nguyen Van Tung from Central Vietnam will join in the group exhibition titled ‘Gió Lào’ (Laotian Wind) at Tu Do Gallery until 26 June. Gio Lao is a wind blowing through Central Vietnam in summer and autumn with strong heat. These artists want the spirit of Gio Lao in their exhibition with a range of 19 oil paintings in striking colours. All of them graduated from Hue Fine Arts University and create in different art styles. They have also won prizes in Fine Art in Vietnam. Ho Van Hung will display his paintings ‘Plant and Sunlight and Bamboo’ in the impressionistic style. Nguyen An’s paintings show his imaginings about Gio Lao in ‘Red Pressure’ while Vu Duy Tan’s paintings depict the mysterious beauty of young woman. Tu Do Gallery, 53 Ho Tung Mau St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City. Tel: (08)3821-0966. Open: 9 a.m. to 7 p.m. everyday.

38 • vietnam heritage - june-july 2014

Net Xua Until further notice City Star Cellar is displaying over 200 antique objects and over 30 paintings in an exhibition called ‘Net Xua’. The objects are from many civilizations such as Dong Son, Champa and Dong Nai, and ceramic objects are from the period of Ly, Tran, Le, Nguyen and Mac Dynasties. The paintings are by Nguyen Phan Chanh, Nguyen Tu Nghiem, Luu Cong Nhan, Ta Ty, Trinh Huu Ngoc, Nguyen Gia Tri, Nguyen Tien Chinh, Bui Xuan Phai, Tran Trung Tin, Luu Van Sin, Nguyen Duc Nung, Hoang Anh, Nguyen Viet, Thai Van Ngon, Truong Van Y, Nguyen Van Anh, Nguyen Tien Chung and Nguyen Sang. The paintings include water-colour on paper, water-colour on paper sticker, gouache on paper, silk painting, pencil drawing on paper and lacquer. Every five or six months, the City Star Cellar will change the subject of exhibition. City Star Cellar, 13 Bui Thi Xuan St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City. Open: 9 a.m. to midnight. MUSIC A night of classical music 8 p.m., 19 June Ho Chi Minh City Ballet Symphony Orchestra and Opera will perform the concert ‘Beethoven and Prokofiev’ with Dutch conductor Jan Stulen and world-class Vietnamese violinist Bui Cong Duy at 8 p.m. 19 June at the Opera House, Lam Son Square, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City. Jan Stulen was born in 1942 in Amsterdam, where he studied conducting and piano and violin at the Music Academy. He was chief conductor of the Amsterdam RAI Opera Company. As a guest conductor, Stulen has appeared with all Dutch orchestras as well as orchestra in many countries. Bui Cong Duy is one of the most successful Vietnamese musicians on the international stage. He performed with many famous Symphony Orchestras in countries like Italy, Japan, Germany, Switzerland, England, Russia and France. Currently, he is Vice Head of the String Department Vietnam National Academy of Music.

The concert will present Violin Concerto No.1 in D Major, op. 19 by Sergei Prokofiev and Symphony No.7 in A Major, op. 92 by Ludwig van Beethoven. Tickets are from VND200,000 – VND400,000 and VND80,000 for students only. Booking and delivery: contact 08 38237419 or 0989874517 (Ms Huong). Pop-rock night 28 June

Mélissa Laveaux will perform a pop-rock concert at 8 p.m., 28 June at Idecaf, 31 Nguyen Van Lung St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City. Please see the Hanoi section for more information. Jazz chanteuse Until 20 July Gabrielle Jenselme, a French classical pianist and Jazz singer will perform 8 p.m. nightly from Tuesdays to Sundays until 20 July at Boudoir Lounge, at the Sofitel Saigon Plaza, to offer guests sweet melodies, from beautiful French notes to swingy Jazz classics. Gabrielle completed her studies at the National Conservatory of Music of Lyon, France. She is a great admirer of Jazz legends such as Billie Holiday, Ella Fitzgerald, Nancy Wilson, Fats Waller, and Louis Armstrong, who were her influences. Aside from performing regularly as a classical concert pianist, she developed skills as a jazz singer and has been featured in both kinds of festivals and concert halls. She performed in prestigious Parisian Jazz Clubs like Le Petit Journal Montparnasse and Le Lionel Hampton Jazz Club at Meridien Hotel Paris. She has also performed in Morocco, Turkey and Sri Lanka. Sofitel Saigon Plaza, 17 Le Duan St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City

value for money HOTELS Best Western Premier Indochine Palace 105A Hung Vuong St, Hue Tel: (054) 3936-666

Movenpick Hotel Saigon 253 Nguyen Van Troi St, Phu Nhuan Dist., Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3844-9222 Movenpick Hotel Saigon has 30 per cent discount on rooms until 30 September. The prices after discount start from $90 (VND1,890,000) per room per night.

Windsor Plaza Hotel 18 An Duong Vuong St, Dist.5, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3833-6688

80 Tran Phu St, Nha Trang, Khanh Hoa Province Tel: (058) 3889-999 Best Western Premier Havana Nha Trang Hotel is offering a two-night package until the end of November. Cost is VND6,990,000 for a Club Suite Room with buffet breakfast, round-trip airport transfers, a five per cent discount on meeting services and a 10 per cent discount on Food & Beverage (applicable for groups at least five people).

Novotel Nha Trang Hotel 50 Tran Phu St, Nha Trang, Khanh Hoa Province Tel: (058) 6256-900 Novotel Nha Trang Hotel has a ‘Super Sale Promotion’. Those who book at its website ( from 23 to 27 June for stays from 11 July to 31 August will get a 30 per cent discount on rooms. The prices before discount starts from $125++ (VND2,625,000++) per room per night.

Sunrise Nha Trang Beach Hotel & Spa 12 – 14 Tran Phu, Nha Trang Tel: (058) 3820-999 Sunrise Nha Trang Beach Hotel & Spa offers a two-night ‘Family Retreat Package’ for VND5,850,000++ in a Superior Sea view Room with breakfast, a dinner, a 30-minute foot massage, round-trip airport transfers and a 10 per cent discount on Food & Beverage, spa and tours. The promotion runs till 31 October.

Hue Riverside Boutique Resort & Spa 588 Bui Thi Xuan St, Thuy Bieu Dist., Hue Tel: (054) 3978-484 Hue Riverside Boutique Resort & Spa has a special rate for those who book on 2 September for VND1,450,000 per room per night with breakfast, pick-up at Phu Bai Airport and a tour to Thien Mu pagoda by boat. Those who book at least two nights will get a lunch or dinner at Pomelo Restaurant on the bank of the Perfume River.

Pilgrimage Village Boutique Resort & Spa 130 Minh Mang Road, Hue Tel: (054) 3885-461

Best Western Premier Indochine Palace, in Hue, is offering a ‘Honeymoon Package’ at VND5,289,000 ($246) per night in a Palace Suite with breakfast, a dinner, a bottle of Champagne and an hour-long spa treatment. The promotion is valid till 31 December.

Best Western Premier Havana Nha Trang Hotel


Windsor Plaza Hotel has a ‘Summer Special Package’ until 30 September. VND1,700,000++ per room per night in a Deluxe Room with breakfast, and a voucher for VND200,000 towards hotel services. VND2,400,000++ per room per night in a Club Room with breakfast, a voucher for VND500,000 toward hotel spas. The promotions are applicable for those who book at least two nights.

Petro House Hotel 63 Tran Hung Dao St, Ward 1, Vung Tau Tel: (064) 3852-014 Petro House Hotel is offering the ‘Weekend Getaway’ package until the end of December: Deluxe Room: first night – VND1,179,000; from second night – VND1,116,000; Deluxe Suite: first night – VND1,516,000; from second night – VND1,432,000; Executive Suite: first night – VND2,021,000; from second night – VND1,895.000. Guests will also be offered one pair of complimentary entrance tickets for greyhound racing on Friday or Saturday evenings per room night, plus one complimentary BBQ Buffet ticket per room on Saturday evenings. Free breakfast for two. Free pick-up and transfer within Vung Tau. Free upgrade to next room type if available. Prices include VAT and service charge. Not applicable on public holidays. Reservations are recommended.

Pilgrimage Village Boutique Resort & Spa has a promotion ‘Stay 2 nights pay 1.5’ & ‘Stay 3 nights pay 2’ for those who book at least two nights till 31 October. The prices start from VND2,688,000 per room per night with breakfast. The price includes service charge and VAT.

Sandy Beach Non Nuoc Resort Danang Vietnam, Managed by Centara 255 Huyen Tran Cong Chua St, Ngu Hanh Son Dist., Danang Tel: (0511) 3961-777

Sandy Beach Non Nuoc Resort Danang Vietnam, Managed by Centara has a ‘Honeymoon Package’ until 31 December. It costs VND5,900,000 per Bungalow Garden View vietnam heritage - june-july 2014

• 39

value for money for two nights with round-trip airport transfers, one bottle of sparkling wine, breakfast, a romantic candle-light dinner, a 45-minute spa treatment, a 10 per cent discount on Food & Beverage and a 15 per cent discount on other spa services.

Pullman Danang Beach Resort Vo Nguyen Giap St, Khue My Ward, Ngu Hanh Son District, Danang Tel: (0511) 3958-888 Email: Pullman Danang Beach Resort is offering a package, ‘Time for Love’, until the end of September. The prices start from VND5,208,000 per room per night with breakfast and one bottle of Champagne.

Palm Garden Beach Resort & Spa Lac Long Quan St, Cua Dai Beach, Hoi An, Quang Nam Province Tel: (0510) 3927-927 Palm Garden Beach Resort & Spa, in Hoi An, has a special promotion until the end of June. A Superior Garden View room is VND3,600,000++per night and a Deluxe Garden View is VND4,000,000++ per night. The prices include a voucher of VND300,000 for body massage at Palm Spa and a complimentary soft drink or beer at each meal in the restaurants.

Promotion 2014’ till 31 October. VND129,000 per person for a half-day meeting, VND219,000 per person for a full-day meeting and VND119,000 per person for a set lunch. The package includes usage of meeting room with signboard arrangement, podium with flowers, one or two coffee breaks and use of sound equipment. The package is applicable for group at least 20 people.

Binh An Village Resort Dalat Tuyen Lam Lake, Ward 4, Dalat Tel: (063) 3800-999 Email: Binh An Village Resort Dalat is offering a special Summer Promotion for families. VND3,990,000++ per room per night in a Family Suite with breakfast, one lunch or dinner for four people, a half-day excursion to Bao Dai Palace and Crazy House.

Dalat Edensee Resort Tuyen Lam Lake, Zone VII.2, Dalat, Lam Dong Province Tel: (063) 3831-515

Dalat Edensee Resort is offering a twonight package until 25 August. It costs VND5,490,000 per room for two with an afternoon tea, two spa vouchers and a romantic dinner. An extra night is VND1,990,000 per room for two people.

Bamboo Village Beach Resort & Spa

Clair Centre

38 Nguyen Dinh Chieu St, Ham Tien Ward, Phan Thiet, Binh Thuan Province Tel: (062) 3847-007 Bamboo Village Beach Resort & Spa is offering a ‘Hello Summer’ package until 31 October for only VND1,789,000 per room per night for two in a Deluxe Room with breakfast and a 20 per cent discount on spa services. The price includes service charge and VAT.

B1 floor, Vincom Centre, 72 Le Thanh Ton St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3936-9780; (08) 3936-9778

40 • vietnam heritage - june-july 2014

The Au Co Cruises 47 Phan Chu Trinh St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3933-4545 Email: Until the end of June, The Au Co Cruises, of the Bhaya Group, has a special rate at $345 (VND7,245,000) per person. The rate includes a two-night Halong cruise with a BBQ dinner in a grotto. The price includes service charge and VAT. 47 Phan Chu Trinh St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3944-6777 Email:

5 Cua Dai St, Hoi An Tel: (0510) 3927-888 River-Beach Resort & Residences Hoi An has a special rate for summer with the prices starting from VND1,260,000 per room per night for two. The price includes breakfast, shuttle bus to Hoi An, service charge and VAT. The promotion runs till 31 October.

152 Nguyen Dinh Chieu St, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet Tel: (062) 3847-858 Hoang Ngoc Resort has a ‘Group Meeting


Bhaya Cruises

River-Beach Resort & Residences Hoi An

Hoang Ngoc Resort

Until the end of June, Clair Center beauty center in Vincom Centre offers 30 to 50 per cent off for Liposonix, BBLs and MixtoCO2 treatments. With a passion of bringing a beauty centre with absolutely safe and no-surgery treatments to the needs of clients in Vietnam, Dr William Chong – CEO of Pacific Healcare Holdings in Singapore has founded Clair Center. With a team of professional and experienced doctors and staff, they are proud to offer treatments of: Thermage (a facelift technology combines with IPL Laser), laser technology for skin treatments, Liposonix (Fat reducing techonolog) and MixtoCO2 (skin treatment). In addition, Clair Center made their own high-quality cosmetic products in order to offer clients the best service they can.

Bhaya Cruises, of the Bhaya Group, is offering a ‘Summer Expat Getaway’ until the end of September. It costs $119 (VND2,499,000) per person including one night’s stay on Halong Bay, a visit to the floating fishing village, a trip to caves of Halong and water activities. Free for kids below 12. The price includes service charge and VAT.

FOOD PROMOTIONS Fortuna Hotel Hanoi 6B Lang Ha St, Ba Dinh Dist., Hanoi

value for money Te: (04) 3831-3333 Tiffin restaurant at Fortuna Hotel Hanoi is serving late night supper with frog dishes, from 10 p.m-3 a.m., especially for World Cup live telecast (13 June to 14th July). Frog congee: VND 110,000++; Stir-fried frog with onion & ginger: VND 120,000++.

Hai Ba Trung Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3822-3535 Tao-Li Chinese restaurant at Hotel Nikko Hanoi is offering a Dim Sum buffet with 50 kinds of dim sum on the 8th every month until September, at VND 350,000++ per person.

Hanoi Daewoo Hotel

Sheraton Hanoi Hotel

360 Kim Ma St, Ba Dinh Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3831-5000

K5 Nghi Tam, 11 Xuan Dieu St., Tay Ho Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3719-9000 Bar Déjà Vu at Sheraton Hanoi Hotel serves five kinds of Mojito cocktail with a variety of flavours, such as mango, strawberry and Vietnamese coriander, from 1 June-31 July. Special ‘bikini performance’ with DJs and water ball game on 28 June. VND 120,000++/glass.

Boutique Hoi An Resort Group 6, Block Tan Thinh, Cam An Ward, Hoi An, Quang Nam Province Tel: (0510) 3939-111 Email: Le Café restaurant, at the Boutique Hoi An Resort, from 6.30 p.m. every Friday and Sunday in June, has a buffet dinner with a variety of specialties from around the world, especially Vietnamese and Hoi An dishes. VND350,000 for adults and half price for children from 5 to 12.

Sheraton Saigon Hotel & Towers 88 Dong Khoi St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3827-2828

Grand Mercure Danang Green Island, Hai Chau Dist., Danang Tel: (0511) 3797-777 In June, Silk Road Restaurant, at the Hanoi Daewoo Hotel, has a ‘Baby Lobster Promotion’ including braised baby lobster with XO or curry sauce, grilled baby lobster with cheese and steamed baby lobster with garlic sauce. VND950,000 per dish including a complimentary mango pudding.

Hilton Hanoi Opera Hotel 1 Le Thanh Tong St, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3933-0500 Chez Manon Restaurant, at the Hilton Hanoi Opera Hotel, prepares a variety of seafood including lobsters, oysters, crabs, octopus, and salmon for BBQ lovers at 6 p.m. – 9 p.m. every Friday and Saturday. VND550,000++ per person.

Hotel Nikko Hanoi 84 Tran Nhan Tong St,

Every day except Mondays in June, from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. and 5.30 p.m. to 9.30 p.m., Grand Mercure Danang serves ‘All-you-caneat Dim Sum’ with over 40 dim sum varieties for VND400,000. Also, from 6 p.m. every Friday the hotel has Chinese and seafood buffet forVND500,000 including free flow of draught beer and soft drink.

Saigon Café, at the Sheraton Saigon Hotel & Towers, has a seafood night, every Friday, 6 p.m. to 10 p.m., in June, including cooked crabs and tiger prawns on ice, lobster topped with cheese sauce, sautéed prawn with XO sauce, crab cake and seafood pizza, Canadian oysters and Halong Bay oysters with red shallot vinaigrette, Japanese soya dressing, lime, wasabi foam or Tabasco. VND1,010,000++ including free flowing house wine, coffee and tea. Rates may be subject to 5-per-cent service charge and 10-per-cent VAT if there is no statement to the contrary.

vietnam heritage - june-july 2014

• 41


Tropic Shop

89 Dong Khoi St, ben Nghe Ward, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3822-3714 -

a bat Trang ceramic teapot set, $25 (VND525,000)

lacquer plate, $35 (VND735,000) Wooden animal jigsaw, $11 to $13 (VND231,000 to VND273,000)

lacquer box, $22 to $35 (VND462,000 to VND735,000)

42 • VieTNaM HeriTage - juNe-july 2014

Shell dish, $26 (VND546,000)

directiOnS Sapa, halOng, haiphOng EMERGENCIES Police: 113 Fire: 114 Ambulance: 115


(TELEPHONE CODE: 020) Sapa is a former French hill station in northwestern Vietnam, in Lao Cai Province, near the Chinese border. A number of minority cultures including the H’mong, Dao and Tay live in villages in the countryside around Sapa. HOTELS, RESORTS Note: Prices at many hotels depend on occupancy and change daily Cat Cat View Hotel 46 Fan Xi Pang St, Sapa, Lao Cai Province Tel: (020) 3871-946 VND735,000 to VND3,780,000 ($35 to $180) Cha Pa Garden Boutique Hotel & Spa 23B Cau May St, Sapa, Lao Cai Province Tel: (020) 3872-907 Email: From VND1,470,000 ($70) Chau Long Sapa Hotel

Topas Ecolodge Thanh Kim Ward, Sapa, Lao Cai Province Tel: (04) 3715-1005 Email: From VND2,300,000 ($110) Victoria Sapa Resort and Spa Xuan Vien St, Sapa, Lao Cai Province Tel: (020) 3871-522 Email: From VND3,657,000 ($172) RESTAURANTS Buffalo Bell Restaurant 25 Cau May St, Sapa, Lao Cai Province Tel: (020) 3873-455 Delta Restaurant 33 Cau May St, Sapa, Lao Cai Province Tel: (020) 3871-799 Fansipan Restaurant 23 Cau May St, Sapa, Lao Cai Province Tel: (020) 3871-556


(TELEPHONE CODE: 033) With around 1,600 islands and islets in the Gulf of Tonkin, Halong Bay, about 170 km east of Hanoi, is well known for its limestone seascape. Overnight boat trips out of Halong City are a popular way to see it. HOSPITALS Bai Chay Hospital Gieng Day Ward, Halong Tel: (033) 3846-557

24 Dong Loi St, Sapa, Lao Cai Province Tel: (020) 3871-245 Email: From VND700,000 ($33) Holiday Sapa Hotel 16 Muong Hoa, Sapa, Lao Cai Province Tel: (020) 3873-874 Email: VND588,000 to VND2,100,000 ($28 to $100) Mường Thanh Sapa Hotel No 044, Ngu Chi Son, Sapa, Lao Cai Province Tel: (020) 3887-766 Email: Royal Hotel 54B Cau May St, Sapa, Lao Cai Province Tel: (020) 3771-131 Email: From VND340,000 ($17)

Traditional Medicine Hospital Cot 8, Hong Ha Ward, Halong Tel: (033) 3838-113 Vietnam-Sweden Hospital Thanh Son Ward, Uong Bi Commune, Halong Tel: (033) 3854-037 TRAVEL Halong Tourism 1 Halong St, Halong Tel: (033) 3846-272 Quang Ninh Tourism Company Ha Long St, Bai Chay Ward, Halong Tel: (033) 3846-350 Syrena Cruises Hung Thang new urban area, Bai Chay, Halong Tel: (033) 3847-043 Hanoi Sales Office: Syrena Tower, 3th Floor, 51 Xuan Dieu St, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3719-7214 Email: HOTELS, RESORTS

Note: Prices at many hotels depend on occupancy and change daily Asean Halong Hotel Hau Can St, Bai Chay Ward, Halong Tel: (033) 3640-034 Email: Halong Hidden Charm Hotel Block 22D, Tuan Chau Villas, Halong Tel: (033) 3842-360 Email: From VND600,000 ($29) Halong Palace Hotel 1, Block 20 Dong Hung Thang, Hoang Quoc Viet St, Bai Chay Ward, Halong Tel: (033) 3619-819 Email: From VND3,800,000 ($181) Halong Plaza Hotel 8 Ha Long St, Bai Chay Ward, Halong Tel: (033) 3845-810 Email: VND1,500,000 to VND3,800,000 ($71 to $179) Heritage Halong Hotel 88 Ha Long St, Bai Chay Ward, Halong Tel: (033) 3846-888 Email: VND1,200,000 ($57) Mường Thanh Halong Hotel No.7, Block 20, East of Hung Thang, Bai Chay Ward, Halong Tel: (033) 3812-468/ (033) 3819-777 Email: From VND1,400,000 ($67) Novotel Ha Long Bay Ha Long St, Bai Chay Ward, Halong Tel: (033) 3848-108 Email: From VND2,772,000 ($132) Saigon Halong Hotel Ha Long St, Bai Chay Ward, Halong Tel: (033) 3845-845 From VND700,000 ($35) StarCity Halong Bay Hotel

equipped rooms, with many breathtaking views of Halong Bay RESTAURANTS Co Ngu Restaurant Halong St, Halong Tel: (033) 3511-363 Jumbo Vietnam Floating Restaurant 119 Le Thanh Tong St, Halong Tel: (033) 3624-888 Sea Food Restaurant Halong St, Halong Tel: (033) 3845-822

Thu Huong Restaurant Halong St, Halong Tel: (033) 3845-142 BARS & CAFÉS Emeraude Café Royal Park, Ha Long St, Halong Tel: (033) 3849-266 Royal International Gaming Club and Villa Bai Chay, Halong Tel: (033) 3848-777

HAI PHONG CITY (TELEPHONE CODE: 031) HOTELS, RESORTS Note: Prices at many hotels depend on occupancy and change daily Catba Princes Hotel

303 Nui Ngoc, Cat Ba Island, Hai Phong City Tel: (031) 3888-899 Email: From VND527,500 ($25) Catba Sunrise Resort Cat Ba Island, Hai Phong City Tel: (031) 3887-360 Email: From VND3,520,000 ($168) Harbour View Hotel 12 Tran Phu St, Ngo Quyen Dist., Hai Phong Tel: (031) 3827-827 Email: From VND2,772,000 ($132)

Halong St, Bai Chay Ward, Halong Tel: (033) 3846-058 Email: In the centre of Halong, StarCity Halong Bay Hotel offers 152 well-

ENTERTAINMENT Do Son Casino Zone 3, Do Son town, Hai Phong City Tel: (031) 3864-888

vietnam heritage - june-july 2014

• 43





1 Asean International Hotel 2 Capital Garden Hotel 3 Daewoo Hotel


4 De Syloia Hotel 5 Fortuna Hotel Hanoi 6 Green Mango 7 Hanoi Horison Hotel 8 Hilton Hanoi Opera Hotel 9 Joseph’ Joseph’ss Hotel 10 1 0 Little Hanoi 11 1 1 MAison d’Hanoi Hanova Hotel



12 1 2 Melia Hanoi Hotel 13 1 3 Movenpick Hotel Hanoi 14 1 4 Nikko Hanoi Hotel 15 1 5 Sofitel Legend Metropole Hanoi 16 1 6 Sunway Hotel Hanoi 17 1 7 Hanoi Emotion Hotel





STREET GUIDE Ba Trieu...................E3, E4 Bac Son.........................D1 Bach Dang.....................F2 Bach Mai........................E4 Bat Dan..........................E2 Bich Cau........................C2 Buoi................................A1 Cat Linh..........................C2 Cha Ca....................E1, E2 Cua Bac.........................D1 Cua Dong.......................D2

Da Tuong.......................E3 Dang Tat.........................D1 Dao Duy Anh.................D4 Dao Duy Tu.............E1, E2 Dien Bien Phu................D2 Doc Ngu.........................A1 Doi Can.............A1, B2, C2 Duong Thanh.................E2 Gam Cau........................E1 Giai Phong.....................D4 Giang Vo.....A3 ,B3 ,B2,C2

Hai Ba Trung.....E2, E3, F3 Ham Long......................E3 Han Thuyen....................F3 Hang Bac.......................E2 Hang Bo.........................E2 Hang Bong.....................E2 Hang Buom....................E2 Hang Can.......................E2 Hang Chuoi....................F3 Hang Cot........................E1 Hang Da.........................E2 Hang Dao.......................E2

Hang Dau.......................E1 Hang Ga.........................E2 Hang Gai........................E2 Hang Khay.....................E2 Hang Khoai....................E1 Hang Ma.........................E1 Hang Quat......................E2 Hang Trong....................E2 Hang Chieu....................E1 Hang Luoc......................E1 Hao Nam........................C2 Hoa Ma...........................F3

Hoang Dieu.............D1, D2 Hoang Hoa Tham............... ....................A1, B1, C1, D1 Hoang Van Thu..............D1 Hoe Nhai........................E1 Hung Vuong............D1, D2 Huynh Thuc Khang........A3 Kham Thien.............C3, D3 Kim Ma..............A2, B2, C2 La Thanh.................B3, C3 Lang Ha..........................B3 Nguyen Chi Thanh.........A3

Le Dai Hanh...................E4 Le Duan............D2, D3, D4 Le Hong Phong.............D2 Le Lai..............................F2 Le Thai To.......................E2 Le Thanh Tong...............F3 Le Van Huu....................E3 Lieu Giai........................A2 Lo Duc......................F3, F4 Lo Su..............................F2 Luong Ngoc Quyen.......E2 Luong Van Can..............E2




6 10

11 9 17 15 13

12 8 4

14 16

Ly Nam De..............E1, E2 Ly Quoc Su....................E2 Ly Thai To.......................F2 Ly Thuong Kiet........E3, F3 Mai Hac De..............E3, E4 Ngo Quyen.....................F3 Ngo Si Lien....................D2 Ngo Thi Nham................E3 Ngoc Ha.........................C1 Ngoc Khanh...................B2 Nguyen Canh Chan......D1 Nguyen Cong Hoa.........B2

Nguyen Dinh Chieu............ .................................E3, E4 Nguyen Du..............D3, E3 Nguyen Huu Huan........ F2 Nguyen Khuyen.............D2 Nguyen Luong Bang.....C3 Nguyen Thai Hoc....C2, D2 Nguyen Thuong Hien......... ........................................D3 Nguyen Van To..............E2 Nha Chung.....................E2 Nha Tho.........................E2

Nui Truc..........................B2 Pham Dinh Ho................F3 Pham Ngu Lao...............F3 Phan Boi Chau.......D2, D3 Phan Chu Trinh..............F3 Phan Dinh Phung..........D1 Phan Huy Chu................F3 Pho Duc Chinh...............F3 Pho Hue...................E3, E4 Phu Doan.......................E2 Phung Hung............E1, E2 Quan Su..................E2, E3

Quan Thanh...................D1 Quang Trung...........E2, E3 Quoc Tu Giam...............D2 Son Tay..........................C2 Thai Phien......................E4 Thanh Cong...................B3 Thanh Nien....................D1 Tho Nhuom.............E2, E3 Thuy Khue.......................... ....................A1, B1, C1, D1 To Hien Thanh...............E4 Tong Dan........................F2

Ton Duc Thang..............C3 Tran Hung Dao................... ...........................D3, E3, F3 Tran Huy Lieu................B2 Tran Khanh Du...............F3 Tran Khat Chan..............F4 Tran Nguyen Han..........F2 Tran Nhan Tong......D3, E3 Tran Nhat Duat..............E1 Tran Phu........................D2 Tran Quang Khai............F2 Tran Qui Cap.................D2

Tran Quoc Toan......D3, E3 Tran Thanh Tong............F3 Tran Xuan Soan................. .................................E3, E4 Trang Thi........................E2 Trang Tien................E2, F3 Trieu Viet Vuong......E3, E4 Trinh Hoai Duc...............C2 Tue Tinh.........................E3 Yen Phu..........................E1 Yersin..............................F4 Yet Kieu..........................D3

directiONS haNOi HANOI


Finland 31 Hai Ba Trung St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3826-6788

Algeria 13 Phan Chu Trinh St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3825-3865

France 57 Tran Hung Dao St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3944-5782

Argentina 41A Ly Thai To St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3831-5263

Germany 29 Tran Phu St, Ba Dinh Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3845-3836

Australia 8 Dao Tan St, Ba Dinh Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3831-7755 Austria 53 Quang Trung St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3943-3050 Bangladesh Villa D6B 5 – Khu Vuon Dao Ngo 675, Lac Long Quan St, Tay Ho Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3771-6625 Belarus 52 Ho Tay St, Tay Ho Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3829-0494 Belgium Hanoi Tower, 49 Hai Ba Trung St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3934-6179 Brazil T72-14 Thuy Khue St, Tay Ho Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3843-2544 Brunei Villa 8-9 No 44/8-44, 9 Van Bao St, Ba Dinh Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3726-0001 Bulgaria 5 Nui Truc St, Ba Dinh Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3845-2908 Cambodia 71A Tran Hung Dao St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3942-7636 Canada 31 Hung Vuong St, Ba Dinh Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3823-5500 China 46 Hoang Dieu St, Ba Dinh Dist., Hanoi. Tel: (04) 3845-3736 Cuba 65 Ly Thuong Kiet St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3942-4775 Czech Republic 13 Chu Van An St, Ba Dinh Dist., Hanoi; Tel: (04) 3845-4131 Denmark 19 Dien Bien Phu St, Ba Dinh Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3823-1888 Egypt 63 To Ngoc Van St, Tay Ho Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3829-4999

Hungary 12th floor of Deaha Building, 360 Kim Ma St, Ba Dinh Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3771-5714 India 58-60 Tran Hung Dao St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3824-4990 Indonesia 50 Ngo Quyen St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3825-3353 Iran 54 Tran Phu St, Ba Dinh Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3823-2068 Iraq 66 Tran Hung Dao St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3942-4141 Ireland 8th floor of Vincom Tower B, 191 Ba Trieu St, Ha Dong Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3974-3291 Israel 68 Nguyen Thai Hoc St, Ba Dinh Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3843-3141 Italy 9 Le Phung Hieu St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3825-6256 Japan 27 Lieu Giai St, Ba Dinh Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3846-3000 Laos 22 Tran Binh Trong St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3942-4576 Libya 298B Kim Ma St, Ba Dinh Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3845-3379 Malaysia 43-45 Dien Bien Phu St, Ba Dinh Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3734-3836 Mexico Coco Villa T-11, 14 Thuy Khue St, Tay Ho Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3847-0948 Mongolia 5 Van Phuc, Kim Ma St, Ba Dinh Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3845-3009 Myanmar 298A Kim Ma St, Ba Dinh Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3845-3369

46 • vietNam heritage - juNe-july 2014

Netherlands 6th floor of Deaha Building, 360 Kim Ma St, Ba Dinh Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3831-5650 New Zealand 63 Ly Thai To St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3824-1481 North Korea 25 Cao Ba Quat St, Ba Dinh Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3845-3008 Norway 8th Floor, Hanoi Tower, 49 Hai Ba Trung St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3974-8900 Nigeria 44/1 Van Bao St, Ba Dinh Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3726-3610 Palestine 6 Dang Van Ngu St, Dong Da Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3852-4013 Philippines 27B Tran Hung Dao St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3943-7948 Poland 3 Chua Mot Cot St, Ba Dinh Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3845-2027 Romania 5 Le Hong Phong St, Ba Dinh Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3845-2014 Russia 191 La Thanh St, Ba Dinh Dist., Hanoi Tel: 3833-6991 South Africa 31 Hai Ba Trung St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3936-2000 South Korea 4th floor of Deaha Building, 360 Kim Ma St, Ba Dinh Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3831-5111 Spain 15th floor of Deaha Building, 360 Kim Ma St, Ba Dinh Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3771-5207 Sweden 2 Nui Truc St, Ba Dinh Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3726-0400 Thailand 63-65 Hoang Dieu St, Ba Dinh Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3823-5092 Turkey 14th Floor, HCO Building, 44B Ly Thuong Kiet St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Tel: (04) 3822-2460 United Kingdom 31 Hai Ba Trung St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3936-0500 United States 7 Lang Ha St, Dong Da Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3772-1500

MEDICAL CENTRES Acupuncture Institute 49 Thai Thinh St, Dong Da Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3563-1069 Hanoi French Hospital 1 Phuong Mai St, Ba Dinh Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3577-1100 International SOS Clinic 1 Dang Thai May St, Tay Ho Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3934-0666 Vinmec international hospital 458 Minh Khai St, Hai Ba Trung Dist, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3974-3556 AIRLINES Air France 1 Ba Trieu St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3825-3484 Qatar Airways Hilton Hanoi Opera Building, M floor, 1 Le Thanh Tong St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3933-6767 Singapore Airlines 17 Ngo Quyen St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi. Tel: (04) 3826-8888 Vietnam Airlines 25 Trang Thi St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3823-0320 TRAVEL Amega Travel No 2606 Thang Long International Village, Tran Dang Ninh St, Cau Giay Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3783-3570 Buffalo Tours 94 Ma May St, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3828-0702 Emeraude Classic Cruises 46 Le Thai To St, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3935-1888 Email: Exotissmo 26 Tran Nhat Duat St, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3828-2150 Email: Oriental Sails 16A Ly Nam De St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3926-4009 Email: Topas Travel 52 To Ngoc Van St, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3715-1005 Email:

directiONS haNOi HOTELS Note: Prices at many hotels depend on occupancy and change daily Baoson International Hotel 50 Nguyen Chi Thanh St, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3835-3536 Email: From VND1,570,000 ($75) De Syloia Hotel 17A Tran Hung Dao St, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3824-5346 Email: From VND1,806,000 ($86) Fortuna Hotel Hanoi 6B Lang Ha St, Ba Dinh Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3831-3333 Email: From VND1,920,000 ($91) Hanoi Daewoo Hotel 360 Kim Ma St, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3831-5000 Email: Hanoi Emotion Hotel 26 – 28 Hang Bot St, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3848-9848 Email: The hotel also provides Vietnamese, Japanese and International cuisine Hilton Hanoi Opera Hotel 1 Le Thanh Tong St, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3933-0500 Email: Hotel de l’Opera 29 Trang Tien St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 6282-5555 Email: From VND4,140,000 ($197) Melia Hanoi Hotel 44B Ly Thuong Kiet St, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3934-3343 Email: Mövenpick Hotel Hanoi 83A Ly Thuong Kiet St, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3822-2800 Email: From VND3,139,500 ($149.50) Hotel Nikko Hanoi 84 Tran Nhan Tong St, Hanoi Tel.: (04) 3822-3535 From VND4,200,000 ($200) Pullman Hanoi 40 Cat Linh St, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3733-0808

Email: From VND2,448,600 ($115.50) Prestige Hotel Hanoi 17 Pham Dinh Ho St, Hanoi Tel: (04) 6299-9888 Email: A new four-star international standard hotel, on a tree-lined street in the heart of Hanoi, 15 minutes walk from the Old Quarter and Hoan Kiem Lake. Modern luxuries, impeccable service and excellent value for the business or pleasure traveller. 80 rooms including elegant suites and an executive apartment, conference facilities, business centre, a restaurant, a fitness centre, a rooftop swimming pool and a cocktail bar. Silk Path Hotel Hanoi 195-199 Hang Bong St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3266-5555 Email: From VND2,289,000 ($109) Sheraton Hanoi Hotel 11 Xuan Dieu St, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3719-9000 From VND4,956,000 ($236) As a ‘resort within the city’, Sheraton Hanoi Hotel is on the West Lake. Sofitel Legend Metropole Hanoi 15 Ngo Quyen St, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3826-6919 Email: From VND6,090,000 ($290) Sunway Hotel Hanoi 19 Pham Dinh Ho St, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3971-3888 Email: APARTMENTS Fraser Suites Hanoi 51 Xuan Dieu St, Quang An Ward, Tay Ho Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3719-8877 Somerset Serviced Residence Vietnam 49 Hai Ba Trung St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3934-2342 Luxurious apartments and properties for hiring RESTAURANTS Com Chay Nang Tam Restaurant 79A Tran Hung Dao St, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3942-4140

Green Tangerine 48 Hang Be St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3825-1286 Serving French food with a Vietnamese cuisine Hoa Vien Brauhaus 1A Tang Bat Ho St, Hai Ba Trung Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3972-5088 The restaurant has been famous for its production of Czech beer Le Tonkin Restaurant 14 Ngo Van So St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3943-3457 Serves Vietnamese food BOOK STORE Infostones Bookshop 41 Trang Tien St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3826-2993 Email: Thousands of magazines and books by hundreds of publishing houses worldwide SHOPS Craft Link 43 and 51 Van Mieu St, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3843-7710 Email: Ha Dong Silk 102 Hang Gai St, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3928-5056 Tan My Embroidery 66 Hang Gai St, Hanoi Email: Tel: (04) 3825-1579 Viet Culture 1 Trang Thi St, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3934-7417 Vietnam Quilts 13 Hang Bac St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3926-4831 Traditional embroidery and other handicraft cloth products FURNITURE/ INTERIOR Dome Au Co 9 Au Co St, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3718-5866 Email:

MUSEUMS Ho Chi Minh Museum 19 Ngoc Ha St, Ba Dinh Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3846-3752 Open: 8 a.m. to noon (Monday and Friday), 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. (other days) Entry fee: VND25,000 Imperial Citadel of Thang Long 12 Nguyen Tri Phuong St/ 9 Hoang Dieu St, Ba Dinh Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 37345427 Open: 8.30 a.m. to 11.30 a.m. and 2 p.m. to 5 p.m. (Closed on Mondays) Entry fee: VND30,000 Vietnam National Museum of History 1 Trang Tien St, Hanoi 216 Tran Quang Khai St, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3824-1384 Open 8 a.m. to 4.30 p.m.Closed every first Monday of months Entry fee VND 20,000 ($0.95) for adults and VND10,000 ($0.48) for children Vietnam Fine Arts Museum 66 Nguyen Thai Hoc St, Ba Dinh Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3733-2131 Open 8.30 a.m. to 5 p.m. Entry fee VND20,000 ($0.95) Vietnam Military History Museum 28A Dien Bien Phu St, Hanoi Open 8 a.m. to 11.30 a.m. and 1 p.m. to 4.30 p.m. Closed on Mondays Entry fee VND30,000 ($1.43) Vietnam Museum of Ethnology Nguyen Van Huyen St, Cau Giay Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3756-2193, Open 8.30 a.m. to 5 p.m. Closed on Mondays Entry fee VND25,000 ($1.19) Women’s Museum 36 Ly Thuong Kiet, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3825-9936 Open 8 a.m. to 4.30 p.m. Closed on Mondays Entry fee VND30,000 ($1.43) SPA

Dome Yen The 10 Yen The St, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3843-6036 STORE Annam Gourmet 51 Xuan Dieu St, Quang An Ward, Tay Ho Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3718-4487 Annam Gourmet’s motivation is to “Enjoy Life. Eat and Drink well.”

Elite Fitness & Spa 51 Xuan Dieu St, Tay Ho Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3718-6281 Email: Spa de Palace Fortuna Hotel Hanoi, 6B Lang Ha St, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3831-3333

vietNam heritage - juNe-july 2014

• 47

directiOnS ninh Binh, hue, danang, hOi an NINH BINH

(TELEPHONE CODE: 030) Cuc Phuong Resort & Spa Village of Dong Tam, Nho Quan, Ninh Binh Province Tel: (030) 3848-888 Email: From VND1,500,000 ($71) Emeralda Ninh Binh Van Long Reserve, Gia Van Commune, Gia Vien Dist., Ninh Binh Province Tel: (030) 3658-333 Email: Ninh Binh Legend Hotel Tien Dong Zone, Ninh Khanh Ward, Ninh Binh City Tel: (030) 3899-880 Email: From VND1,575,000 ($75)


(TELEPHONE CODE: 038) Mường Thanh Song Lam Hotel 13 Quang Trung St, Quang Trung Ward, Vinh, Nghe An Province Tel: (038) 3737-666

lage, Bo Trach Dist., Quang Binh Province Tel: (052)3677-678


(TELEPHONE CODE: 054) Hue is a city on the Perfume River in lowland central Vietnam and was the capital of the Nguyen dynasty from 1802 to 1945. Many imperial structures remain. They were named part of UNESCO World Heritage in 1993. Hue is also known for its particular cuisine. HOTELS, RESORTS

Banyan Tree Lang Co Hotel Cu Du village, Loc Vinh Commune, Phu Loc Dist., Thua Thien Hue Province. Tel: (054) 3695-888 Best Western Premier Indochine Palace



105A Hung Vuong St, Hue Tel: (054) 3936-666 Email: From VND3,024,000 ($144) The hotel is surrounded by lush green gardens that make it an outstanding landmark in Hue and give the city the feel of a resort. This luxurious, international standard hotel is created to appeal to Vietnamese and international visitors to Hue. Century Riverside Hotel Hue

HOTELS, RESORTS Note: Prices at many hotels depend on occupancy and change daily Bao Ninh Beach Resort Ha Duong, Bao Ninh, Dong Hoi City, Quang Binh Province Tel: (052) 3854-866 Email: From VND1,120,000 ($53) Sun Spa Resort My Canh, Bao Ninh Commune, Dong Hoi City, Quang Binh Province Tel: (052) 3842-999 Email: From VND1,870,000 ($89)

Novotel Danang Premier Han River

Pilgrimage Village Boutique Resort & Spa

130 Minh Mang Road, Hue Tel: (054) 3885-461 Email:

36 Bach Dang St, Hai Chau Dist., Danang. Tel: (0511) 3929-999 Email: Pullman Danang Beach Resort Vo Nguyen Giap St, Khue My Ward, Ngu Hanh Son Dist., Danang Tel: (0511) 3958-888 Email: Sandy Beach Non Nuoc Resort Danang Vietnam, Managed by Centara

Vedanā Lagoon Resort & Spa Zone 1, Phu Loc Town, Phu Loc Dist., Hue Tel: (054) 3681-688 Email:


Tel: (0511) 3981-234 Email: From VND4,683,000 ($213)

Imperial Hotel 8 Hung Vuong St, Hue Tel: (054) 3882-222 Email: VND2,300,000 to VND29,400,000 ($110 to $1,400)

Note: Prices at many hotels depend on occupancy and change daily


(Telephone code: 039) White Palace Hotel 139 Ha Huy Tap St, Ha Tinh City Tel: (039) 6269-999 A three-star hotel in the heart of Ha Tinh City, Central Vietnam, near tourist sites. 50 rooms designed in the French style, VIP dining rooms and two international-standard meeting rooms which can seat up to 500 people

588 Bui Thi Xuan St, Thuy Bieu Dist., Hue Tel: (054) 3978-484 Email:

RESTAURANT Thien Tam Vegetarian Restaurant 110A Le Ngo Cat St, Thuy Xuan Ward, Hue Tel: (054) 3898-220 Thien Tam Vegetarian Restaurant features a Hue garden house with a simple design and a serene atmosphere. The restaurant serves a variety of Hue vegetarian food, from royal to local dishes, at a reasonable price. The menu has many choices, with prices starting from VND45,000 per dish. The restaurant also serves as an art playground for Hue artists. Guests have chance to get their portraits drawn by the owners at a reasonable price. Vegetarian cooking classes are also available. The restaurant is about 1-2 km from Tu Duc tomb


49 Le Loi St, Hue Tel: (054) 3823-390 Email: Hue Riverside Boutique Resort & Spa

TRAVEL Oxalis Adventure Tours Phong Nha Commune, Son Trach Vil-

48 • vietnam heritage - june-july 2014

(TELEPHONE CODE: 0511) HOTELS, RESORTS Note: Prices at many hotels depend on occupancy and change daily Grand Mercure Danang Lot A1, Green Island, Hoa Cuong Bac, Hai Chau Dist., Danang Tel: (0511) 3797-777 Email: Hyatt Regency Danang Resort & Spa Hoa Hai Ward, Ngu Hanh Son Dist., Danang

255 Huyen Tran Cong Chua St, Ngu Hanh Son Dist., Danang Tel: (0511) 3961-777 Email: VND1,785,000 to VND5,670,000 ($85 to $270) Ho Chi Minh sales office: 4th Floor, Ben Thanh TSC Building; 186-188 Le Thanh Ton St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3914-7940 Vinpearl Luxury Danang Truong Sa St, Hoa Hai Ward, Ngu Hanh Son Dist., Danang Tel: (0 511) 3968-888 Email: MUSEUM Danang Museum of Cham Sculpture 2, 2 Thang 9 St, Danang Tel: (0511) 3572-935 Open 7.15 a.m. to 5 p.m. Entry fee VND30,000 ($1.43)


(TELEPHONE CODE: 0510) A major port town from the 15th to 19th centuries, Hoi An has well preserved vestiges of Vietnamese, Chinese and Japanese cultures. The buildings are now often used for tailor’s shops. The old town is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Hoi An is a little over 30 km south of Danang, on the central coast.

directiOnS quy nhOn, nha trang,phan rang HOTELS, RESORTS Note: Prices at many hotels depend on occupancy and change daily Anantara Hoi An Resort 1 Pham Hong Thai St, Hoi An, Quang Nam Province Tel: (0510) 3914-555 Email:

Le Belhamy Hoi An Resort & Spa Ha My Beach, Hoi An Tel: (0510) 3941-888 Email: From VND2,835,000 ($135) Hoi An Pacific Hotel & Spa

Golf Hoi An Hotel

187 Ly Thuong Kiet St, Cam Pho Ward, Hoi An, Quang Nam Province Tel: (0510) 3861-171 Email: Ancient House River Resort Hamlet 2, Cam Thanh Village, Hoi An, Quang Nam Province Tel: (0510) 3930-777 Email: From VND2,656,500 ($126.50) Hoi An Beach Resort 1 Cua Dai St, Hoi An, Quang Nam Province Tel: (0510) 3927-011 Email: VND2,184,000 to VND2,772,000 ($104 to $132) Hoi An Historic Hotel



321 Cua Dai St, Hoi An, Quang Nam Province Tel: (0510) 3923-777 Email: From VND1,113,000 ($53) Sunrise Hoi An Beach Resort Au Co Road, Cua Dai Beach, Hoi An, Quang Nam Province Tel: (0510) 3937-777 Email: Palm Garden Beach Resort and Spa

Avani Quy Nhon Resort & Spa Ghenh Rang, Bai Dai Beach, Quy Nhon, Binh Dinh Province Tel: (056) 3840-132 Email: From VND1,995,000 ($95) Royal Hotel and Healthcare Resort Quy Nhon 1 Han Mac Tu St, Quy Nhon, Binh Dinh Province Tel: (056) 374-7100 Email: VND1,155,000 to VND1,365,000 ($55 to $65) MUSEUM Quang Trung Museum Block 1, Phu Phong town, Tay Son Dist., Binh Dinh Province Tel: (056) 3580-320 Open 7 a.m. to 11.30 a.m. and 1.30 p.m. to 5 p.m. Entry fee VND10,500 ($0.50). Free for children under six

Lac Long Quan St, Cua Dai Beach, Hoi An, Quang Nam Province Tel: (0510) 3927-927 Email: From VND 4,158,000 ($198) River-Beach Resort & Residences Hoi An

5 Cua Dai St, Hoi An Tel: (0510) 3927-888 From VND1,350,000 ($65)

MUSEUM Hoi An Centre for Cultural Heritage Management and Preservation

Diamond Bay Resort & Spa Song Lo, Phuoc Ha, Phuoc Dong Dist., Khanh Hoa Province Tel: (058) 3711-711 Email: Evason Ana Mandara Nha Trang Beachside Tran Phu St, Nha Trang, Khanh Hoa Province Tel: (058) 3524-705 InterContinental Nha Trang Hotel


(TELEPHONE CODE: 058) On the central coast, Nha Trang is a city originally known for beautiful beaches but these have lately been found to suffer from pollution due to modern life, development and tourism, like other popular resort areas in Vietnam. It has large numbers of foreign tourists, island-hopping, scuba diving, sightseeing and lounging on the beach.

Champa Island Nha Trang Resort & Spa

($179 to $364)TRAVEL Rose Travel Service 37 - 39 Ly Thai To St, Cam Chau Ward, Hoi An, Quang Nam Province Tel: (0510) 3917-567 Email:

38 Tran Phu St, Nha Trang, Khanh Hoa Province Tel: (058) 3889-999 Email:

Note: Prices at many hotels depend on occupancy and change daily

Hoi An Riverside Resort & Spa 175 Cua Dai St, Hoi An, Quang Nam Province Tel: (0510) 3864-800 Email: From VND1,650,000 ($79)

Best Western Premier Havana Nha Trang Hotel



10 Tran Hung Dao St, Hoi An, Quang Nam Province Tel: (0510) 3861-445 Email: From VND2,127,500 ($101)

entertainment services that promise a memorable stay in Nha Trang

Note: Prices at many hotels depend on occupancy and change daily

Golden Sand Resort & Spa Hoi An Thanh Nien Road, Cua Dai Beach Hoi An, Quang Nam Province Tel: (0510) 3927-555 VND3,759,000 to VND7,644,000

10B Tran Hung Dao St, Hoi An Tel: (0510) 3862-367 Open daily 8 a.m. to 9 p.m.

304 2/4 St, Vinh Phuoc, Nha Trang Email: Hotline: 0123 6009 777 With architecture reflecting nearby Po Nagar temple, Champa Island Nha Trang offers exquisite cuisine and many

32-34 Tran Phu St, Nha Trang Tel: (058) 3887-777 Michelia Hotel 4 Pasteur St, Nha Trang, Khanh Hoa Province Tel: (058) 3820-820 Email: From VND2,200,000 ($105) Mường Thanh Nha Trang Hotel 6 Duong Hien Quyen St, Vinh Hoa Ward, Nha Trang, Khanh Hoa Province Tel: (058) 3552-468 Email: From VND1,400,000 ($66) Novotel Nha Trang Hotel 50 Tran Phu St, Nha Trang, Khanh Hoa Province Tel: (058) 6256-900 Email: VND2,415,000 to VND4,830,000 ($115 to $230) Six Senses Ninh Van Bay Ninh Van bay, Ninh Hoa, Khanh Hoa Province Tel: (058) 3524-268 Email: reservations-

vietnam heritage - june-july 2014

• 49

directiOnS phan thiet From VND17,629,500 ($839.50) Sheraton Nha Trang Hotel & Spa 26-28 Tran Phu St, Nha Trang, Khanh Hoa Province Tel: (058) 3880-000 From VND3,565,000 ($170) Some Days of Silence Resort & Spa Dong Hai, Ninh Hai, Ninh Hoa, Hon Khoi, Khanh Hoa Province Tel: (058) 3670-952 Email: Sunrise Nha Trang Beach Hotel & Spa 12-14 Tran Phu St, Nha Trang, Khanh Hoa Province Tel: (058) 3820-999 Email: VND2,520,000 to VND4,305,000 ($120 to $205) Vinpearl Luxury Nha Trang Hon Tre Island, Nha Trang, Khanh Hoa Province Tel: (058) 3598-598 Email: Vinpearl Resort Nha Trang Hon Tre Island, Nha Trang City, Khanh Hoa Province Tel: (058) 3598-188 Email: White Sand Doclet Resort & Spa

Population group 9 Dong Cat, Ninh Hai Ward, Ninh Hoa Town, Khanh Hoa Province Tel: (058) 3670-670 Email:

SHOPPING Khanh Hoa Salanganes Nest Company 248 Thong Nhat St, Nha Trang, Khanh Hoa Province Tel: (058) 3822-472

Email: From VND1,050,000 ($50)

Bamboo Village Beach Resort & Spa

Muine Bay Resort

38 Nguyen Dinh Chieu St, Ham Tien Ward, Phan Thiet City, Binh Thuan Province. Tel: (062) 3847-007 From VND2,200,000 ($105)

Quarter 14, Mui Ne Ward , Phan Thiet City, Binh Thuan Province Tel: (062) 2220-222 Email: VND2,205,000 to VND6,195,000 ($105 to $295)

MUSEUM Alexandre Yersin Museum Pasteur Institute, 10 Tran Phu St, Nha Trang, Khanh Hoa Province Tel: (058) 3822-406



HOTEL, RESORT Note: Prices at many hotels depend on occupancy and change daily Saigon Ninh Chu Hotel & Resort Khanh Hai Town, Ninh Hai Dist., Ninh Thuan Province Tel: (068) 3876-011 Email: VND1,575,000 to VND4,200,000 ($75 to $200)

DuParc Phan Thiet Ocean Dunes & Golf Resort 1 Ton Duc Thang St, Phan Thiet City, Binh Thuan Province Tel: (062) 3822-393 Email: From VND1,500,000 ($71) Hoang Ngoc (Oriental Pearl) Beach Resort & Spa

Quarter 5, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet, Binh Thuan Province Tel: (062) 3849-849 Email: From VND1,575,000 ($75)


(TELEPHONE CODE: 062) Sitting on the coast about 200 km north of Ho Chi Minh City, Phan Thiet is a beach city with many resorts and hotels. HOTELS, RESORTS Note: Prices at many hotels depend on occupancy and change daily Allezboo Beach Resort & Spa 8 Nguyen Dinh Chieu St, Ham Tien, Phan Thiet, Binh Thuan Province Tel: (062) 3743-777 Email: From VND1,400,000 ($66) Anantara Mui Ne Resort & Spa 12A Nguyen Dinh Chieu St, Ham Tien Ward, Phan Thiet City, Binh Thuan Province Tel: (062) 3741-888

Pandanus Resort

152 Nguyen Dinh Chieu St, Ham Tien Ward, Phan Thiet City, Binh Thuan Province . Tel: (062) 3847-858 Email: VND1,600,000 to VND6,090,000 ($75 to $287) Full Moon Village Suoi Nuoc Beach, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet City, Binh Thuan Province Tel: (062) 3836-099 Email: VND2,100,000 to VND6,300,000 ($100 to $300) Mom Da Chim - Lazi Beach Resort Ly Thai To St, Tan Tien, Lagi, Binh Thuan Province Tel: (062) 3874-458 Email: From VND1,900,000 ($90)

Park Diamond Hotel Nguyen Tat Thanh St, Hung Long Ward, Phan Thiet City, Binh Thuan Province Tel: (062) 3835-666 Email: From VND990,000 ($47) Saigon - Suoi Nhum Resort Thuan Quy, Ham Thuan Nam Ward, Binh Thuan Province Tel: (062) 3683-240 From VND1,700,000 ($81) Sandhills Beach Resort & Spa Km6, Tien Binh hamlet, Tien Thanh Commune, Phan Thiet, Binh Thuan Province Tel: (062) 3846-789 Email: From VND2,520,000 ($120) Seahorse Resort & Spa

Muine de Century Beach Resort & Spa 16 Huynh Thuc Khang St, Ham Tien Ward, Phan Thiet, Binh Thuan Province Tel: (062) 3743-668 From VND1,550,000 ($74) Muine Ocean Resort & Spa 10 Nguyen Dinh Chieu St, Ham Tien Ward, Phan Thiet City, Binh Thuan Province Tel: (062) 3741-616 Email:

50 • vietnam heritage - june-july 2014

Km 11, Ham Tien Ward, Phan Thiet City, Binh Thuan Province Tel: (062) 3847-507 Email: From VND1,440,000 ($68)

directiOnS dalat, hO chi minh city Sea Links Beach Hotel Km 9, Nguyen Thong St, Phu Hai Ward, Phan Thiet City, Binh Thuan Province Tel: (062) 2220-088 Email: From VND1,995,000 ($94)

Thuan Province Tel: (062) 3813-000 Email: From VND3,633,000 ($171) Villa Aria Mui Ne

Sea Lion Beach Resort & Spa 12 Nguyen Dinh Chieu St, Ham Tien Ward, Phan Thiet, Binh Thuan Province Tel: (062) 3743-390 Email: Sunny Beach Resort & Spa 60A Nguyen Dinh Chieu St, Ham Tien Ward, Phan Thiet City, Binh Thuan Province; Tel: (062) 3741-660 Email: From VND1,743,000 ($83) White Sands Resort 64-66 Nguyen Dinh Chieu St, Ham Tien, Phan Thiet City, Binh Thuan Province Tel: (062) 3741-355 Email: From VND1,699,000 ($80) Saigon Mui Ne Resort 56 - 97 Nguyen Dinh Chieu St, Ham Tien Ward, Phan Thiet City, Binh Thuan Province Tel: (062) 3741-044 Email: From VND1,908,000 ($90) The Cliff Resort & Residences Zone 5, Phu Hai Ward, Phan Thiet City, Binh Thuan Province Tel: (062) 3719-111 The Sailing Bay Beach Resort 107 Ho Xuan Huong St, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet Tel: (062) 3836-555 Email: From VND2,571,000 ($122) Mui Ne Unique Resort


KM8, Nguyen Thong St, Phu Hai Ward, Phan Thiet City, Binh Thuan Province Tel: (062) 3741-175 Email: From VND1,344,000 VND ($64) MUSEUM Cham Culture Exhibition Centre Song Mao intersection, Phan Hiep Commune, Bac Binh Dist., Binh Thuan Province; Tel: (062) 3641-456 Open: 7.30 a.m. to 11 a.m. and 2 p.m. to 5 p.m. Monday to Friday Free entrance


(TELEPHONE CODE: 063) Dalat, founded in 1893, has Frencharchitecture, pine forests and a perpetually cool climate. It is in the southern Central Highlands, about 300 kilometres from Ho Chi Minh City. HOTELS

Victoria Phan Thiet Beach Resort & Spa Phu Hai Ward, Phan Thiet City, Binh

02 Hoang Van Thu St, Dalat, Lam Dong Province Tel: (063) 3556-789 Email: ; Located in the heart of Dalat, SaigonDalat Hotel is a four-star-standard hotel, comprised of 160 luxurious and comfortable rooms with air-conditioning throughout and other modern amenities. Four restaurants, two bars, one tennis court, one indoor swimming pool, one fitness centre and one beauty salon and spa help make your getaway experience complete.


Note: Prices at many hotels depend on occupancy and change daily

20B, Nguyen Dinh Chieu St, Ham Tien Ward, Phan Thiet, Binh Thuan Province Tel: (062) 3741-617 Email: Reservation contact in Ho Chi Minh City, 57 Pham Viet Chanh St, Nguyen Cu Trinh Ward, Dist.1 Tel: (08) 3925-4196 Email:

Saigon-Dalat Hotel

Ana Mandara Villas Dalat Resort & Spa Le Lai St, Dalat, Lam Dong Province Tel: (063) 3555-888 Email: From VND1,700,000 ($81) Dalat Edensee Resort Tuyen Lam Lake, Zone VII.2, Dalat, Lam Dong Province Tel: (063) 3831-515 Email: VND2,331,000 to VND4,662,000 ($111 to $222)

Australia 5B Ton Duc Thang St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3829-6035 Belgium 91 Nguyen Huu Canh St, Ward 22, Binh Thanh Dist., Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3512-7968 Cambodia 41 Phung Khac Khoan St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3829-2751 Canada Metropolitan, 235 Dong Khoi St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3827-9899 China 175 Hai Ba Trung St, Dist.3, Ho Chi Minh City. Tel: (08) 3829-2457 Cuba 45 Phung Khac Khoan St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3829-7350 France 27 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai St, Dist.3, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3829-7231 Germany 126 Nguyen Dinh Chieu St, Dist.3, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3829-2455 India 55 Nguyen Dinh Chieu St, Dist.3, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3822-7853 Indonesia 18 Phung Khac Khoan St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3825-1888 Japan 13-17 Nguyen Hue St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City; Tel: (08) 3822-5314

Kuwait 24 Phung Khac Khoan St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City, tel: (08) 3827-0555 Laos 93 Pasteur St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3829-7667 Mexico 11 Tra Khuc St, Tan Binh Dist., Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3848-6290 Netherlands 29 Le Duan St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3823-5932 New Zealand Metropolitan, 235 Dong Khoi St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3822-6907 Panama 7A Le Thanh Ton St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City. Tel: (08) 3825-0334 Russia 40 Ba Huyen Thanh Quan St, Dist.3, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3930-3936 Singapore Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3822-5173 South Korea 107 Nguyen Du St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3822-5757 Switzerland 42 Giang Van Minh St, Dist.2, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3744-6996 Thailand 77 Tran Quoc Thao St, Dist.3, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3932-7637 United Kingdom 25 Le Duan St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3825-1380, (08) 3829-8433 United States 4 Le Duan St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3822-9433 HOSPITALS Columbia Asia Gia Dinh International Hospital 1 No Trang Long St, Binh Thanh Dist., Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3803-0678 FV Hospital 6 Nguyen Luong Bang St, Dist.7, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 5411-3500 Stamford Skin Centre 254 Dien Bien Phu St, Dist.3, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3932-1090 Email: AIRLINES Air France 130 Dong Khoi St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3829-0981

vietnam heritage - june-july 2014

• 51

directiOnS dalat, hO chi minh city All Nippon Airways 115 Nguyen Hue St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3821-9612 American Airlines 69 Ba Huyen Thanh Quan St, Dist.3, Ho Chi Minh City. Tel: (08) 3933-0330 Asiana Airlines 39 Le Duan St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3822-8710, (08) 3829-3038 British Airways 170-172 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia St, Dist.3, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3930-2933 Cathay Pacific Airways 72-74 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3822-3203 Emirates Airlines 170-172 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia St, Dist.3, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3930-2939 Japan Airlines 88 Dong Khoi St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City. Tel: (08) 3821-9098 Jetstar Pacific Airlines 112 Hong Ha St, Tan Binh Dist., Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3955-0550 Philippine Airlines 2nd Floor Saigon Royal Building 91 Pasteur St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3827-2105 Qatar Airways 1-5 Le Duan St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3827-3888 Royal Brunei Airlines 787 Tran Hung Dao St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh CityTel: (08) 3924-5100 Singapore Airlines 29 Le Duan St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3823-1588 Thai Airways International 29 Le Duan St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3829-2809 Turkish Airlines 76A Le Lai St, Room 4, 8th Floor, AB Tower, Dist. 1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3936-0360 - Ext 121 Email:

United Airlines Suite 708 Sun Wah Tower, 115 Nguyen Hue St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3823-4755 Vietnam Airlines 115 Nguyen Hue St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3832-0320 Vietjet Air 8Bis Cong Truong Quoc Te, Dist.3, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3827-0123 TRAVEL Asiana Travel Mate 113C Bui Vien St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City. Tel: (08) 3838-6678 Buffalo Tours 81 Mac Thi Buoi, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3827-9168 Email: Buffalo Tours operates in Vietnam, Thailand, Cambodia and Laos. The Buffalo Tours portfolio caters to all types of tours. Exotissimo 80-82 Phan Xich Long St, Phu Nhuan Dist., Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3995-9898 Saigon Tourist 45 Le Thanh Ton St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3827-9279 Trails of Indochina 10/8 Phan Dinh Giot St, Tan Binh Dist., Ho Chi Minh City; Tel: (08) 3844-1005 Email: Transviet Travel Travel House, 170-172 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia St, Dist.3, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3933-0777 HOTELS Note: Prices at many hotels depend on occupancy and change daily Catina Saigon Hotel 109 Dong Khoi St, Ben Nghe Ward,

Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3829-6296 From VND1,690,500 ($80.50) Caravelle Hotel 19-23 Cong Truong Lam Son St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3823-4999 Duxton Hotel Saigon 63 Nguyen Hue Blvd, Ben Nghe Ward, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3822-2999 First Hotel

18 Hoang Viet St, Ward 4, Tan Binh Dist, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3844-1199 Email: Grand Hotel Saigon

Mövenpick Hotel Saigon

253 Nguyen Van Troi St, Phu Nhuan Dist., Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3844-9222 Email: Lotte Legend Hotel Saigon 2A-4A Ton Duc Thang St, Ben Nghe Ward, Dist 1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3823-333 Email: From VND4,221,000 ($201) Liberty Central Hotels in Ho Chi Minh City 17 Ton Duc Thang St, Dist.1 Tel: (08) 3827-1717 177-179 Le Thanh Ton St, Dist.1 Tel: (08) 3823-9269 Email: New World Saigon Hotel 76 Le Lai St, Ben Thanh Ward, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3822-8888 Email: 8 Dong Khoi St, Ben Nghe Ward, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City. Tel: (08) 3823-0163 Email: Built in 1930, the Ancient Wing of Grand Hotel Saigon offers a cozy and elegant atmosphere. The Luxury Wing, opened in November 2011, adds a modern style. 230 rooms and suites, a ballroom, recreation area, VIP Lounge, Western & Asian restaurants, Bars & Grand Café at Roof Garden

New Epoch Hotel 120 Cach Mang Thang 8 St, Dist.3, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3932-6169 Email: From VND1,155,000 ($55) Northern Hotel Saigon

Hotel Nikko Saigon 235 Nguyen Van Cu St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City, tel: (08) 3925-7777 From VND4,830,000 ($230) InterContinental Asiana Saigon Corner Hai Ba TrungSt. & Le Duan Blvd, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3520-9999 Email: From VND5,845,455 ($278) Kelly Hotel 42-44 Thu Khoa Huan St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City. Tel: (08) 3823-3364 Email: From VND966,000 ($46) An elegant and cosy hotel with good

52 • vietnam heritage - june-july 2014

service. Within walking distance to Ben Thanh market, Independence Palace and several museums. Vietnamese food is served at reasonable prices.

11A Thi Sach St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3825-1751 Email: From VND1,505,000 ($71) Three-star boutique hotel, 99 rooms in Superior, Deluxe and Suite categories, a short walk from major entertainment and shopping venues. Novotel Saigon Centre 167 Hai Ba Trung St, Dist.3, Ho Chi Minh City. Tel: (08) 3822-4866 Email:

directiOnS dalat, hO chi minh city From VND2,959,000 ($140) From VND1,207,500 ($57.50)

Palace Hotel Saigon 56-66 Nguyen Hue Blvd, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3829-2860 Email:

Sofitel Saigon Plaza

Park Hyatt Saigon 2 Lam Son Square, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3824-1234 Email: From VND8,436,000 PARKROYAL Saigon 309B – 311 Nguyen Van Troi St,Tan Binh Dist., Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3842-1111 From VND2,173,500 ($103.50) Ramana Hotel Saigon 323 Le Van Sy St, Dist.3, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3843-9999 Email: From VND1,050,000 ($50) Renaissance Riverside Hotel Saigon 8-15 Ton Duc Thang St, Ben Nghe Ward, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3822-0033 Email: From VND4,105,500 ($195.50) Royal Hotel Saigon 133 Nguyen Hue St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3822-5915 Email: From VND1,932,000 ($92)

Maxim Nam An Vietnamese Restaurant 13-15-17 Dong Khoi St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3829-6676

17 Le Duan St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3824-1555 Email: From VND3,864,000 ($184) Tan Son Nhat Hotel 200 Hoang Van Thu St, Ward 9, Phu Nhuan Dist, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3844-1039 Email: From VND785,400 ($37) Windsor Plaza Hotel

18 An Duong Vuong, Dist.5, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3833-6688 RESTAURANTS Kim Lam Restaurant

Saigon Cooking Class 74/7 Hai Ba Trung St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3825-8485 GALLERIES Artists Long & Ngoc Gallery Grand Hotel (at the lobby), 8 Dong Khoi, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City TeL: (08) 2246-6839 Mobile: 0908 229 708 Email:

Vietnam House Restaurant 93 - 95 Dong Khoi St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3829-1623

Apricot Gallery 50 Mac Thi Buoi St, Ben Nghe Ward, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3822-7962

BARS & CAFÉS Elle Cafe 45 Ngo Duc Ke St, Bitexco Financial Tower, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 6291-8769

Sax N’ Art Jazz Club 28 Le Loi St, Dist 1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3822-8472 Thao Nguyen Café Floor 7 and Rooftop of Restaurant Ngon 138 138 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia St, Ben Nghe Ward, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3827-9666 Open from 7 a.m. until 10.30 p.m. SHOPS

23 Dong Khoi St, Ben Nghe Ward, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 6299-0879 Email: The restaurant serves Vietnamese food from the North, Centre and South with emphasis on artistic garnish. It has three floors and can hold one hundred and twenty people. The restaurant is a treasure trove of Vietnamese culture with art objects serving as the decor

Tel: (08) 3844-5500 Email:

Vatel Saigon Bistronomique-Lounge 120 Bis Suong Nguyet Anh St, Ben Thanh Ward, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 5404-2220

Caffe Molinari 5 Le Duan St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3910-6903 Email:

Rex Hotel

141 Nguyen Hue St, Ben Nghe Ward, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3829-2185 Email: From VND4,620,000 ($220)

Mam Son Restaurant 35 Ton That Thiep St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3915-3653 Vietnamese food

IPA Nima 85 Pasteur St, Ben Nghe Ward, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3824-2701 IPA Nima is well-known for its bags. Shin 122 Ly Tu Trong St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City 53A Nguyen Du St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: 0909352369 Shin is famous for fashion clothes and leather bags.

Sheraton Saigon Hotel & Towers 88 Dong Khoi St, Ben Nghe Ward, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3827-2828 Email: From VND8,740,000 ($416)

Kobe Teppanyaki Restaurant 13A Tu Xuong St, Ward 7, Dist 3, Ho Chi MInh City Tel: (08) 3932-0187

V Spa 15B/25 Le Thanh Ton St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City. Tel: (08) 6291-8179

Silver Creek City Resort 112 An Phu Dong 11, Dist.12, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3719-9533 Email:

Lemongrass Restaurant 4 Nguyen Thiep St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3822-0496

Mint Culinary School 778/45 Nguyen Kiem St, Phu Nhuan Dist., Ho Chi Minh City



Cactus Contemporary Art 17/12 Nguen Huy Tuong St, Ward 6, Binh Thanh Dist., Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 7300-1270 Email: Craig Thomas Gallery 27i Tran Nhat Duat St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Mobile: 0903 888 431 Email: Open: 1 p.m. to 6 p.m. Closed Mondays and Sundays Galerie Quynh 65 De Tham St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3836-8019 Sàn Art 3 Me Linh St, Ward 19, Binh Thanh Dist., Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3840-0183 Opening: 10.30 a.m. to 6.30 p.m. every. Closed on Sunday and Monday Tu Do Gallery 53 Ho Tung Mau St, Ben Nghe Ward, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3821-0966 Opening: 9 a.m. to 7 p.m. everyday MUSEUMS Fine Arts Museum of Ho Chi Minh City 97A Pho Duc Chinh St, Nguyen Thai Binh Ward, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3829-4441 Open 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. Closed Mondays. Ho Chi Minh City Museum 65 Ly Tu Trong St, Ben Nghe Ward, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3829-9741 Open daily 8 a.m. to 4 p.m.

vietnam heritage - june-july 2014

• 53





1 Duxton Hotel Saigon 2 Equatorial Hotel 3 Grand Hotel 4 Intercontinental Asiana Saigon Hotel 5 Kelly Hotel


6 Lotte Legend Hotel Saigon 7 Majestic Hotel 8 New W World orld Hotel 9 Oscar Hotel 1 0 Park Hyatt 10 1 1 Renaissance Riverside Hotel Saigon 11 12 1 2 Rex Hotel 13 1 3 Sheraton Saigon Hotel & TTowers owers 14 1 4 New Epoch Hotel

2 1 4 14

15 1 5 Ngon 138 Restaurant 16 1 6 V ietnam House Restaurant Vietnam

1 7 V 17 -Spa V-Spa


4 2

STREET GUIDE 3 Thang 2..........A2, A3, B2 Alexandre De Rhodes........ ........................................E2 An Duong Vuong....A4, B4 Ba Le Chan....................D1 Ba Huyen Thanh Quan...... ........................................C2 Ban Co...........................B3 Ben Chuong Duong........... .................................D4, E4 Ben Van Don...........D4, E4

Bui Thi Xuan..................C3 Bui Vien...................C4, D4 Cach Mang Thang Tam..... ......A1, B1, B2, C2, C3, D3 Calmette.........................E4 Cao Thang.....................B3 Chu Manh Trinh.............F2 Co Bac.....................C4, D4 Co Giang............. ...C4, D4 Cong Quynh............C3, C4 De Tham........................D4

Dien Bien Phu..................... A3, B2, C2, D1, D2, E1, F1 Dinh Tien Hoang............E1 Do Quang Dau...............C4 Do Thanh.......................B3 Doan Cong Buu.............C1 Doan Nhu Hai..........E4, F4 Dong Du.........................F3 Dong Khoi................E3, F3 Hai Ba Trung....................... ...........................D1, E2, F3 Hai Trieu.........................F4

Ham Nghi.................E4, F4 Han Thuyen....................E2 Ho Hao Hon...................C4 Ho Tung Mau...........E3, E4 Ho Xuan Huong.............C2 Hoa Hung.......................A2 Hung Vuong...................A4 Huyen Tran Cong Chua..... ........................................D3 Huynh Thuc Khang........E3 Huynh Tinh Cua.............D1 Ky Con.....................D4, E4

Ky Dong...................B2, C1 Le Duan...................E2, F2 Le Hong Phong.................. ...........................A2, A3, A4 Le Lai.......................C3, D3 Le Loi..............................E3 Le Quy Don....................D2 Le Thanh Ton...................... ...........................D3, E3, F2 Le Thi Hong Gam............... .................................D4, E4 Le Thi Rieng............C3, D3

Le Van Sy.......................B1 Luong Huu Khanh.........C3 Ly Chinh Thang.......C1, C2 Ly Thai To......................A3 Ly Tu Trong......................... ...........................D3, E3, F2 Ly Van Phuc...................E1 Mac Dinh Chi...........E1, E2 Mac Thi Buoi..................F3 Mai Thi Luu..............E1, F1 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia............ ...................C1, D1, D2, D3






15 10 5


13 1


16 9 3




Ngo Duc Ke....................F3 Ngo Thoi Nhiem ....C2, D2 Ngo Van Nam.................F2 Nguyen Binh Khiem.............. .....................................F1, F2 Nguyen Cau...................D1 Nguyen Cong Tru............... .................................D4, E4 Nguyen Dinh Chieu............ ......B3, C2, C3, D2, E1, F1 Nguyen Du..............D3, E3 Nguyen Hue.............E3, F3

Nguyen Khac Nhu.............. .................................C4, D4 Nam Quoc Cang.....C3, C4 Nguyen Phi Khanh.........E1 Nguyen Sieu...................F3 Nguyen Son Tra................. .................................B3, C3 Nguyen Tat Thanh..........F4 Nguyen Thai Binh............... .................................D4, E4 Nguyen Thai Hoc....D3, D4 Nguyen Thanh Y............E1

Nguyen Thi Dieu............C2 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai........ .................................B3, C3 Nguyen Thien Thuat........... .................................A3, B3 Nguyen Thong........B2, C2 Nguyen Thuong Hien........ .................................B2, C3 Nguyen Trai.............B4, C4 Nguyen Trung Ngan......F2 Nguyen Trung Truc........E3 Nguyen Truong To.........E4

Nguyen Van Cu..............B4 Nguyen Van Thu......E1, F1 Pasteur................................ ...............D1, D2, E2, E3,E4 Pham Ngoc Thach.........D1 Pham Ngu Lao........C4, D4 Pham Viet Chanh...........B3 Phan Ke Binh..........E1, E2 Pho Duc Chinh...............E4 Phung Khac Khoan.......E2 Suong Nguyet Anh........C3 Thach Thi Thanh.....D1, E1

Thai Van Lung................F3 Thi Sach.........................F3 Thu Khoa Huan.......D3, E3 To Hien Thanh................A1 Ton That Dam..........E3, E4 Ton Duc Thang..............C3 Tran Binh Trong......A3, A4 Tran Cao Van.................E2 Tran Dinh Xu...........B4, C4 Tran Hung Dao.......C4, D4 Tran Minh Quyen...........A3 Tran Nhan Tong.......A3, A4

Tran Phu.........................A4 Tran Quang Dieu...........B1 Tran Quang Khai.....D1, E1 Tran Quoc Thao......C1, D2 Tran Quoc Toan......C1, D1 Truong Dinh............C1, C2 Tu Xuong.......................C2 Vinh Vien........................A3 Vo Thi Sau........C2, D1, E1 Vo Van Tan..............C3, B3 Vuon Chuoi..............B2, B3 Yersin..............................D4

directiOnS mekOng delta Independence Palace 135 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia St, Ben Thanh Ward, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3822-3652 Open daily, 7.30 a.m. to 11.30 a.m., 1 p.m. to 4 p.m.

ture, near the beach and few hundreds metres from Vung Tau Hydrofoil Terminal. 66 rooms and 17 apartments, three meeting rooms seated from 20 to 250 and wedding services.

HOTELS, RESORTS Note: Prices at many hotels depend on occupancy and change daily Mường Thanh Vung Tau Hotel No 09, Thong Nhat St, Ward 1, Vung Tau Tel: (064) 3835-567 Email: From VND1,890,000 ($90)

Phuoc Thuan Commune, Xuyen Moc Dist., Ba Ria-Vung Tau Tel: (064) 3782-266 Email: 1 Nguyen Trai St, Ward 1, Vung Tau Tel: (064) 3856-411 Email: From VND2,062,000 ($97) Petrosetco Hotel 12 Truong Cong Dinh St, Ward 2, Vung Tau Tel: (064) 3624-748 Email: From VND1,085,700 ($52) Petro House Hotel 63 Tran Hung Dao St, Ward 1, Vung Tau Tel: (064) 3852-014 Email: From VND1,260,000 ($60) Newly refurbished rooms conveniently located near Vung Tau ferry terminal. Catering to Asian and European tastes with Malaysian cuisine specialty. Romeliess Hotel

Grand Hotel Vung Tau

The Imperial Hotel & Residences Vung Tau 159 - 163 Thuy Van St, Vung Tau Tel: (064) 3628-888 Email: MUSEUM White Palace 6 Tran Phu St, Ward.1, Vung Tau Tel: (064) 3852-605 Open daily 7 a.m. to 5 p.m.


Long Hai is a beach town, 30km northeast of Vung Tau and 124 km southeast of HCMC. Anoasis Beach Resort Domain Ky Van, Long Hai, Ba Ria – Vung Tau Province Tel: (064) 3868-227 Email: From VND2,310,000 ($110) The Grand Ho Tram Strip

2 Nguyen Du St, Ward.1, Vung Tau Tel: (064) 3856-888 Email: From VND2,058,000 ($98) A four star hotel, 125 km from Saigon, built in 1890s with the French architec-

31 - 33 Thuy Van St, Vung Tau Tel: (064) 3613-366 Email: A new three-star hotel at the Back Beach, the ‘best beach in Vung Tau,’ with nearly 50 rooms overlooking the beach! Many promotions at

Note: Prices at many hotels depend on occupancy and change daily Golf Can Tho Hotel 2 Hai Ba Trung St, Tan An Ward, Ninh Kieu Dist., Can Tho Tel: (0710) 3812-210 Email: Victoria Can Tho Resort Cai Khe Ward, Ninh Kieu Dist., Can Tho Tel: (0710) 3810-111 Email: From VND3,700,000 ($175) MUSEUM Can Tho Museum 1 Hoa Binh St, Tan An Ward, Can Tho Tel: (0710) 3820-955 Open: Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday (8 a.m. to 11 a.m. and 2 p.m. to 5 p.m.); Saturday and Sunday (8 a.m. to 11 a.m. and 6.30 p.m. to 9 p.m.). Closed on Friday. Free admission


(TELEPHONE CODE: 076) HOTELS Note: Prices at many hotels depend on occupancy and change daily Victoria Chau Doc Hotel 1 Le Loi St, Chau Doc Town, An Giang Province Tel: (076) 3865-010 Email: From VND3,169,000 ($149)

Phuoc Thuan, Xuyen Moc, Ba Ria-Vung Tau Province Tel: (064) 3788-888 Email:

Victoria Nui Sam Lodge Vinh Dong 1, Nui Sam, Chau Doc, An Giang Province Tel: (076) 3575-888 Email:



Six Senses Con Dao Dat Doc Beach, Con Dao Dist., Ba Ria - Vung Tau Province Tel : (064) 3831-222 con-dao/destination From VND14,490,000 ($690) Six Senses Con Dao has been selected as one of 2013's 25 Best Ecolodges by National Geographic Traveler


(TELEPHONE CODE: 0710) Can Tho is the largest city in the Mekong Delta, about 170 km southwest of Ho Chi Minh City, and acts as the area’s economic, transportation

56 • vietnam heritage - june-july 2014

and cultural centre. Sitting on the Mekong River, Can Tho is popular for its nearby floating markets, canals and rivers that can be explored by boat. HOTELS, RESORTS

Palace Hotel

War Remnants Museum 28 Vo Van Tan St, Ward 6, Dist.3, Ho Chi Minh City, Tel: (08) 3930-5587 Email: Open daily 7.30 a.m. to midday and 1.30 p.m. to 5 p.m.

A popular beach resort town for residents of Ho Chi Minh City, Vung Tau is about 128 km southeast of HCMC. It can be reached either by road or by a 90-minute hydrofoil boat from HCMC. Sitting on a peninsula that sticks out into the East Sea, Vung Tau does not have the most beautiful, or cleanest, beaches in Vietnam but can act as a quick getaway from the buzz of the city.

Vietsov Petro Resort

An Giang Museum 11 Ton Duc Thang St, My Binh Ward, Long Xuyen City, An Giang Province Tel: (076) 3956-248 Open hour 7a.m. to 11a.m. and 1.30 p.m. to 5 p.m. Closed on Monday Entrance fee: VND42,000 ($2)


(TELEPHONE CODE: 077) Phu Quoc Island, off the southern tip of Vietnam in the Gulf of Thailand, has some of the most beautiful beaches in the country. White-sand beaches, scuba diving around coral reefs or exploring the protected jungle. Accessible by ei-

directiOnS Phu QuOc, OverSeaS ther the Rach Gia hydrofoil boat or a 50-minute flight from Ho Chi Minh City. Modest family-owned bungalows on the beach to fivestar resorts.

Tel: (33-4) 7391-9364 Serves traditional Vietnamese food, from €12.80 per dish Open 11.30 a.m. to 3 p.m. (closed on Sundays).


GRENOBLE Kim Ngan 22 r Nicolas Chrier Tel: (33-4) 7649-0847 Serves Vietnamese food with prices starting at €8 per dish

Note: Prices at many hotels depend on occupancy and change daily Eden Resort Phu Quoc


Cua Lap Hamlet, Duong To Ward, Phu Quoc District, Kien Giang Province Tel: (077) 3985-598 Email: Chen Sea Resort & Spa Phu Quoc, Centara Boutique Collection Bai Xep, Ong Lang, Cua Duong, Phu Quoc Island Tel: (077) 3995-895 Email: From VND3,381,000 ($161) La Veranda Resort Tran Hung Dao St, Ward 7, Duong Dong Town Phu Quoc Island Tel: (077) 3982-988 Email: VND5,082,000 to VND8,694,000 ($242 to $414) Sai Gon Phu Quoc Resort 1 Tran Hung Dao St, Phu Quoc Island Tel: (077) 3846-999 Email: VND2,499,000 to VND4,011,000 ($119 to $191)


(Telephone code: 1) Xe Lua 254 Spadina Ave, Tonronto, Ontario Canada M5T2C2 Tel: (1-416) 703-8330 Xe Lua has been open since 1996 and serves phở for $6 a bowl Open: 11.30 a.m. to 12 p.m Chau Kitchen and Bar 1500 Robson St. Vancouver, British Columbia Tel: (1-604) 682-8020 Serves Vietnamese dishes with prices starting at $7 per dish.


(Telephone code: 33) CLEMONT-FERRAND Kim Anh 6 Bis r Elie Gintrac

(Telephone code: 1) CALIFORNIA-CA Emerald Restaurant Pacific Gateway Plaza 3709 Convoy Street, Ste 101, San Diego, CA 92111 Tel: (1) 858-565-6888 Serves Vietnamese food

1919 S Jackson St Seattle, WA 98144 Tel: (1) 206-322-3378 Massachusetts-MA Saigon Hut 305-307 Meridian St. Boston, ] MA 02128; Tel: (1) 617-567-1944 Xinh Xinh 7 Beach St (Washington St.) Boston, MA 02111 Tel: (1) 617-422-0501


(Telephone code: 44) Little Saigon Restaurant 6 Bigg Market, Newcastle upon Tyne, England Tel: 01912330766 Vietnamese dishes


La Mint 62–64 Riley St, East Sydney NSW 2010 Tel: (61) 293-311-818 Email: Open: Wednesday to Friday, noon to 2:30 p.m., Monday to Saturday, 6 p.m. to 10.30 p.m. French and Vietnamese dishes


(Telephone code: 62) Pho 24 Pondok Indah, Plaza I, Jln. Taman Duta 1Blok UA 35 Jakarta Selatan Tel: (62) 0217-505-909 JIn. Wolter Mongonsidi No. 71, Kebayyoran Baru, Jakarta Selatan Tel: (62) 0217-278-8411 Pacific Place Mall, 5th Floor, SCBD, JIn. Jendral Sudirman Kav. 52-53, Jakarta 12190 Tel: (62) 0215-140-0531

(Telephone code: 61)

Hung Ky Mi Gia 5237 El Cajon Blvd, San Diego, CA 92115; Tel: (1) 619-229-2188 Serves noodle varieties with prices starting at $5 per dish Open 8 a.m. to 9 p.m. International Restaurant 1 4444 – A University Ave, San Diego, CA 92115 Tel: (1) 619-281-9999 Little Saigon 7 Linden Ave (Railroad) South San Francisco, CA 94080 Tel: (1) 650-589-1398 New York-NY Saigon Grill 620 Amsterdam Ave, New York, NY 10024 Tel: (1) 212-875-9072 Serves over 100 Vietnamese dishes including vegetarian options Open 11 a.m. to 12 a.m. Mai Lan Vietnamese 505 N State St Syracuse, NY 13203 Tel: (1) 315-471-6740 L’Annam 121 University Pl New York, NY 10022 Tel: (1) 212-420-1414 VIRGINIA-VA Minh’s Vietnamese 2500 Wilson Blvd Arlington, VA 22201 Tel: (1) 703-525-2828 Prices start at $15 per dish Open 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. (closed on Mondays) WASHINGTON-WC Ho Bac 1314 S Jackson St Seattle, WA 98144 Tel: (1) 206-860-8164 Kieu Nga Lemongrass Restaurant 514 12th Ave Seattle, WA 98122 Tel: (1) 206-860-8164 Moonlight Café vietnam heritage - june-july 2014

• 57

laid back

Clockwise from top: Doing exercise on Guom Lake, Hanoi, 2011; Worshiping at Nghia An clan house, Ho Chi Minh City; Water puppets; Do Son buffalo fight festival, Hai Phong, 2012. Photos from Vietnam Heritage Photo Awards 2012 and 2013

Photo: Vu Khanh Truong

Photo: Mai Le Minh

Photo: Bui Dang Thanh

Photo: Pham Vu Dung

58 • vietnam heritage - june-july 2014

Vietnam Heritage Jun-Jul 2014  
Vietnam Heritage Jun-Jul 2014  

Cover story: History -The wooden printers that saved reading -Rice ink was the secret to woodblock printing Art: -Folk talkes, theatre and...