Page 1


September 2017 | Volume 44 | Number 9

Leading the way with

fit-for-market formulations Contract manufacturers

raise their game

SA’s booming Ethnic care market Top tips for pharmaceutical supply chain excellence


September 2017 | Volume 44 | Number 9

w w za

6 NEWS Cape Town welcomes Urban Decay makeup Placecol launches in Swaziland, Botswana and Namibia

7 COMPLIANCE COLUMN Know your labelling requirements for cosmetics

9 CONTRACT MANUFACTURING Bespoke solutions from Customised Cosmetics Wrapsa introduces its new ARVs plant The passion for manufacturing at Proficos and Microbel Organic and natural private label formulations NSP Unsgaard brings innovation to the table Master direct compression with Tablettose

curls 22


Brunational stays ahead of the trends Capacity enhancements for Dabur South Africa

20 NEW PRODUCT COMPETITION 2017 judging day highlights

22 ETHNIC CARE IMCD talks appropriate formulation ingredients for curly hair New hair care travel kit from Evonik How to restore skin to its natural beauty Clariant tailors its products for the local market Say goodbye to split ends with Trichomega Croda completes another African hair care study

34 PHARMACEUTICAL FOCUS: SUPPLY CHAIN & DISTRIBUTION Flexible solutions from Bolloré Logistics


Wrapsa’s new ARV manufacturing plant


New cold shipping packaging Compliance and regulatory update from Strategnos Mitigating risks with temperature sensitive cargo

42 HOME CARE Dilutable concentrate to reduce formulation costs Zinc ricinoleate technology for odour removal Silicone de-foamer aids water conservation

50 Propak Cape Preview

Reasons to visit this year’s show

51 Sustainable Packaging & Practices

Is your brand eco-friendly?


Fresh developments from Coschem

New wax emulsions for floor care

P C Review | SEPTEMBER 2017 |



From the editor

Stepping stones


to compliance he current regulatory environment in

thanks to the incredible support received

the South African personal care and

from advertisers and contributors.

cosmetics industry is transitioning from self-regulation to full regulation

Despite challenging economic times and operating in a cut-throat industry, South

by the Department of Health. While the

African contract manufacturers continue

proposed regulations are still in draft format,

to shine with passion and resilience. This

promulgation is imminent and the industry

is evident in the contract manufacturing

needs to be ready to comply.

feature on page 9, which covers recent

Regulatory compliance is one of four

installations and facility upgrades, capacity

areas of the P C Review/Symrise New

enhancements and new solutions from

Product Competition on which the products

various local companies.

entered are judged. This segment covers a

This edition also covers the latest


Editor: Abby Vorster +27 (0)11 877 6038 Assistant Editor: Aarifah Nosarka +27 (0)11 877 6209 Layout & Design: Kirsty Thomas Contributors: Ari Nerwich, Dora Kgatla, Harold Malepe, Sarantis Kosmas ADVERTISING Sales Executive: Carla Melless +27 (0)83 260 6060 Sales Executive: Anita Raath +27 (0)82 976 6541 Sales Executive: Candida Giambo-Kruger +27 (0)71 438 1918 INTERNATIONAL SALES Germany/Austria/Switzerland: Eisenacher Medien Erhardt Eisenacher +49 228 249 9860 Italy: Ngcombroker Giacomo Rotunno +39 370 101 4694

full assessment of labelling requirements

developments in the Ethnic care

including the ingredients listing or INCI

category on page 22, where you can

nomenclature, claims, text placement,

read about several ingredients for

Taiwan: Ringier Trade Media Sydney Lai +886 4 2329 7318

legibility and the inclusion of a local

multicultural formulations.


physical address etc. Over the years,

Supply chain and distribution come under

the judges have noted that compliance

the spotlight in the pharmaceutical focus on

Circulation Manager: Felicity Garbers +27 (0)21 701 1566

continues to be a hurdle for smaller and

page 40. In this feature, you can learn more


new brands. Of course, even some of the

about good cold chain practice and the

General Manager: Dev Naidoo

more established brands don’t always get

variety of suppliers that are equipped and

the requirements 100 percent correct. To

compliant in this regard.

Publishing Manager: Natalie Da Silva +27 (0)11 877 6281

assist our readers in this regard, P C Review

The regular PACKAGING REVIEW section

Production Controller: Rae Morrison

has launched a quarterly compliance

on page 47 looks at the show features

Art Director: David Kyslinger

column contributed and reviewed by

planned for Propak Cape. Aarifah


industry experts. The first column, featured

Nosarka also sources expert

on page 7 in this edition, discusses labelling

advice on what it takes to be

requirements for cosmetics.

a truly sustainable brand. Turn

New Media Publishing, Ground floor, Media Park, 69 Kingsway Avenue, Auckland Park, 2092 Tel: +27 (0)11 877 6111, Fax: +27 (0)11 713 9024 POSTAL ADDRESS PO Box 784698, Sandton, Johannesburg, 2146

Keeping with the topic of the New Product

to page 51 now to find out

Competition, we recently hosted our

how you can play your part in

Published on behalf of Media24 by New Media Publishing (PTY) Ltd.

esteemed panel of judges at Media Park to



assess all the entries. Turn to page 20 now for a full review of our exciting judging day and


Enjoy the read!

Bridget McCarney

a sneak peek at the judges’ feedback.


We have some bumper features lined up

John Psillos

in this edition, which is a fantastic 56 pages



Dr Trevor Baillie

Past-President, Society of Cosmetic Chemists SA

Prof Dr Aubrey Parsons


Consultant, Cosmetic Solutions

John Knowlton Professor Emeritus, Faculty of Health Sciences, Nelson Mandela Metropolitan University

Prof N T (Raj) Naidoo Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review is published by New Media Publishing 11 times a year and circulates to manufacturers, packers and distributors of pharmaceuticals, health products, cosmetics, detergents, soaps, toiletries and allied products. The journal is an up-to-date source of reference for company directors, factory and production managers, marketing executives, engineers, import agents, buyers and research personnel.

CEO of the National Association of Pharmaceutical Manufacturers

Vivian Frittelli P C Review is the official journal of: CTFA - The Cosmetic, Toiletry & Frangrance Association of South Africa NAPM - The National Association of Pharmaceutical Manufacturers


| SEPTEMBER 2017 | P C Review

New Media House, 19 Bree Street, Cape Town 8001 Tel: +27 (0)21 417 1111, Fax: +27 (0)21 417 1112 Email: PO Box 440, Green Point, Cape Town 8051

COSCHEM - The Society of Cosmetic Chemists of South Africa HPA - The Health Products Association of Southern Africa AMA - The Aerosol Manufacturers’ Association of South Africa

While precautions have been taken to ensure the accuracy of its contents and information given to readers, neither the editor, publisher, or its agents can accept responsibility for damages or injury which may arise therefrom. All rights reserved. © Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, photocopying, electronic, mechanical or otherwise without the prior written permission of the copyright owners. Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review is printed and bound by CTP Printers - Cape Town. Copyright: all rights reserved. ISSN 0257-8719



Heat Collection take centre stage in store, which was

spot prizes, and DJ Portia Luma kept the beats coming

as the international cosmetics brand, Urban Decay

first launched to media and later revealed to the public

throughout the opening day.

opened its doors at the V&A Waterfront.

19 August. The latter had the V&A Waterfront buzzing

Customers were treated to opening specials and the

The beautiful store is adorned in purple, mirror and

with energy and excitement from the early hours of the

brand committed to doing good as the sales racked

has that signature Urban Decay edge. The iconic Naked

morning as customers queued – a dedicated fan even

up. Urban Decay will be donating a percentage of the

eyeshadow palettes, over 100 shades of Vice Lipstick,

slept over to be first in line. The brand kept the crowd

store’s opening day profits to the Cape of Good Hope

the legendary All Nighter Setting Spray and The Naked

entertained by playing pass-the-parcel, handing out

Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals.



use in personal care products like soap and

HuntsmanClariant deal is making progress

shampoos, and a Polyetheramine, which is

despite a narrow second request for additional

used in construction and additive/paint and

information. The global speciality chemicals

ink applications.

company is moving ahead to satisfy the

The COSMOSapproved natural active ingredient from CLR in liquid form

Clariant is confident that the parties will

regulatory approval to close its merger of equals

be able to satisfy and FTC concerns on a

with Huntsman Corporation.

timeline consistent with the merger, which the

The US Federal Trade Commission (FTC),


companies continue to expect to close around

which reviews the antitrust implications of

year-end. The regulatory clearance process

certain business recently delivered a second

continues to move forward in other jurisdictions

CLR HAS LAUNCHED a new cosmetics active,

request for information to the parties relating

as well and the companies continue to move

JuvenEye CLR (INCI: Hieracium Pilosella

to just two products: Sodium Isethionate,

forward on this timeline.

(Hawkweed) Extract, Bellis Perennis (Daisy) Flower Extract). JuvenEye CLR activates vital processes supporting the breakdown of haem, which is both dark-coloured and contributes significantly to the cause of dark circles under the eyes. It also activates dermal draining, through its ability to increase the production of VEGF-C. With the use of JuvenEye CLR, melanin deposition in the skin is reduced and autophagy is activated. In vivo studies have shown that JuvenEye CLR clearly reduces the visible signs of dark circles under the eyes. Both the colour and the surface area of dark circles are reduced significantly. CLR is represented locally by IMCD South Africa.


| SEPTEMBER 2017 | P C Review

Lipobead Detox with Charcoal is a spherical encapsulated form of activated charcoal for use in skin care and cosmetics products


NOVEL TRIO OF INGREDIENTS FROM VANTAGE THE COMPANY HAS launched three new technologies, which reach across various product categories to provide solutions to personal care formulation needs and cosmetics claims. These products are available locally from the South African office of Vantage Specialty Chemicals, which is based in Midrand, Gauteng. Lipobead Detox with Charcoal is the newest addition to the Vantage Encapsulants line. It is designed to help adsorb and neutralise contaminants by purifying the skin and keeping it clean and radiant. This spherical encapsulated form of activated charcoal allows the formulator to reap the benefits of activated charcoal while avoiding the drawbacks. Lipobead Detox with Charcoal helps maintain beautiful clear or white formulations. The product also provides an innovative visual and textural appeal to consumers with a colour change experience. This colour change effect indicates the release and dispersion of the activated charcoal onto the skin. Probiotics have long been consumed to maintain health within the body. Prebiotics, on the other hand, are substances that lay the foundation for a beneficial microbial environment. The use of prebiotic compounds on skin is underutilised; Vantage’s new patent pending PreBio Defense uses a range of carefully selected polysaccharides, which are encapsulated in a cellulose matrix. When released on the skin, they act as a powerful food supplement and conditioning agent for the habitation of beneficial microorganisms. Finally, CytoCalm is the newest Vantage anti-ageing peptide. This hexapeptide is designed to block the drivers of inflammation and stress while reversing the signs of ageing.


AFRICAN EXPORT STRATEGY THE AWARD WINNING Placecol skin care range is launching in various Edgars stores in in Swaziland, Botswana and Namibia. In South Africa, the range is available in more than 70 of Placecol’s own skin care clinics, aesthetics centres and spas. ‘The upgraded Placecol skin care range is considered to be one of the best skin care ranges in the world and we are very excited to launch our Placeol brand into our neighbouring countries. We have also started to export the Placecol skin care range to Mauritius,’ says Esna Colyn, CEO of Imbalie Beauty. Debbie Wolfendale, executive director of Imbalie Beauty, adds: ‘We are also currently working on a new service concept to launch the upgraded Placecol brand into the Edgars group in South Africa. This will be a shop in a shop concept, operated by our franchise salon owners and this process will be subject to a successful pilot phase, before we proceed with the roll out.’ There are two basic skin care ranges in the Placecol skin care basket of offerings: the ‘green’ or ‘butterflies’ range for consumers younger than 40 and the Placecol Illuminé skin care range for consumers over 40. Placecol

Esna Colyn


at the labelling game Assisted by industry experts, P C Review is introducing a quarterly Compliance Column to assist brand owners in fulfilling regulatory requirements. The first issue, tackled by Robyn Brown, is labelling.


lways keep the definition of a cosmetics product in mind when developing labelling content. This should be set on a background that contrasts the written text well so that it is legible. The selected inks and materials should be compatible so the printing does not rub off easily and isn’t obstructed by batch codes or any other labelling. Per the Foodstuffs, Cosmetic and Disinfectants Act, 1972 (Act No. 54 of 1972), the main requirements for labelling are: • the name and physical street address of the manufacturer or the distributor of the product in South Africa • an expiry date if the minimum period of durability is less than 30 months • the name of the product and its nominal quantity in the container when packaged • precautions and warning statement for use • the product function, if it’s not already apparent from its presentation e.g. cleanser or toner • a batch number for traceability • a list of all ingredients used to compound the product in INCI nomenclature at the correct levels where required by regulatory stipulation. The correct INCI names may be obtained from the most recent version of the Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook as published by the Personal Care Products Council of America • if the product has been fragranced, a declaration of the fragrance allergens is required on pack if the concentration of the allergen exceeds 0.001 percent in leave-on products and 0.01 percent in rinse-off products. Should your packaging preclude labelling or if there isn’t adequate space to present all this information, it is advisable to include an information leaflet, accompanying tag or brochure located near the product at the point of sale. This is so consumers can make an informed choice before purchasing your product. The language used to develop the label must be comprehensible to consumers in the market in which the product will be placed. In South Africa, it can be in any one of the 11 official languages, however English is normally the advised default because of its universal use. For the rest of Africa, it is important to establish the official language of the destination market. Developing multilingual labels is advisable from the onset if export is envisioned. In the next Compliance Column, we will tackle those sticky claims. Join us in January 2018 to find out more. •

Illuminé won the 2016 Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review/Symrise New Product Competition and was named the most innovative skin care brand.

Robyn Brown (NHD Microbiology, Dipl Cosmetic Science) is a member of the CTFA technical committee, consultant to the cosmetics industry and owner of Botanichem.

P C Review | SEPTEMBER 2017 |




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| SEPTEMBER 2017 | P C Review




AMA Golf Day 4 October Glendower Golf Club, Johannesburg

P&C Review/ Symrise New Product Competition Awards 5 October The Venue, Greenpark

Hair Care Actives Supplier Afternoon 6 October Coschem office, Randpark Ridge

Propak Cape 24 to 26 October Cape Town ICC, Western Cape

CPhI Worldwide 24 to 26 October Messe Frankfurt, Germany

Sunscreens Morning Refresher 25 October Coschem office, Randpark Ridge

November Compack South Africa 16 to 17 November Sandton Convention Centre, JHB southafrica

Saphex 2017 28 to 29 November Sandton Convention Centre, JHB


Bespoke cosmetics manufacturing Customised Cosmetics, a new company with an old history, is making its mark as a flexible and reputable contract manufacturer.


Brett Harris, Selwyn Majmin and

waterless hand sanitisers are among the

Cosmetics, which they started in 2012

many various products we can produce,’

when the dynamic trio chose to diversify

says Harris. ‘Our facility, where we adhere

their offerings beyond the needs of the

to GMP, is equipped with automated

wax and depilatories market. Together

tube filling and sealing machinery, batch

they have established a business that

coding equipment, automated labelling

offers a concept to a complete solution,

machine, various filling and packing lines

ince 2004, Customised Cosmetics

developing and producing unique

has been providing contract

products for customers within

manufacturing services to the

the personal care and

South African cosmetics industry.

cosmetics industry.

Its roots are firmly planted in the depilatory

massage creams and gel products like

Manfred Nkosi head up Customised

‘We work with many

market where the company carved its

leading local brands,

niche as the leading hair removal wax

which include beauty

manufacturer in Africa.

wholesalers, professional skin care companies, hotel amenities and corporates requiring corporate gifting for

and an in-house R&D laboratory.’


Customised Cosmetics can re-formulate an existing product if a client is

Together Majmin and Harris have more than 30 years’ experience in pharmaceutical and cosmetics manufacturing, spanning specialised production, retail, costing and formulation among other aspects.

product launches and special events,’ Harris explains.

looking to enhance or improve it, or the R&D team can create a brand-new product to suit a client’s unique needs. ‘We are very good at benchmarking, highly focused

on R&D and have extensive knowledge of the current skin and hair care trends,’ he comments. ‘Our strong

Focused on quality, flexibility and R&D

emphasis on quality control means our

Customised Cosmetics is located in

highest quality products manufactured

Edenvale, Gauteng, where it operates from

within our facility.’

a 1 000m2 manufacturing and packing

clients and the end user receive only the

The company welcomes third party

facility. This is complemented with ample

and private label business, and has a

warehousing space to store raw materials,

daily capacity to fill orders ranging from

packaging components and finished

100kg for smaller customers and up to

goods within their respective areas.

2 500kg for more established brands. •

‘Along with waxes and depilatories, anti-ageing creams and serums, male grooming products, toiletries, bath and body products, Ethnic hair care offerings,

Customised Cosmetics –

CUSTOMISED COSMETICS CC Your one-stop personal care contract manufacturer We specialise in: · waxes and depilatories · skin care · ethnic hair care · anti-ageing creams and serums · male grooming products

· toiletries and bath and body products · massage creams · gel products · corporate gifts

Contact Brett Harris or Selwyn Majmin for more info Brett: 082 925 6321 or Selwyn: 082 338 5889

Unit No1 Bosco Office Park, Cnr Terrace & Andries Pretorius Roads, Edenvale Tel: 011 609 9696/011 452 6111 Fax: 011 609 9671

P C Review | SEPTEMBER 2017 |



A national asset to

manufacturing The internal investments being made by contract manufacturers and packers add up to significant amounts. Leading the pack in terms of ongoing investments and GMP approved capabilities is Wrapsa, which shares the next step in its expansion strategy with Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review.


ABOVE AND LEFT Wrapsa’s new ARV manufacturing plant

outh Africa is home to the largest

with this new requirement, Wrapsa is

ARV treatment programme in the

establishing a specialised laboratory

competitive and we always need to

world, with more than 3.6 million

to offer stability testing services on an

be different to remain ahead of the

patients in the public health care

ongoing basis and for new product

competition,’ he comments. ‘Wrapsa is

sector alone accessing this life-saving

development to the pharmaceutical

in the process of introducing technical

medication in 2016. According to Gavin

and CAMs industries.’

monitoring systems on its equipment to

Steel, chief director at National Department

‘Contract packing is highly

The laboratory will be ISO 17025:2005

provide faster turnaround should any

of Health, one in four people in South

certified, which specifies the general

Africa now has access to treatment and

requirements for competence to

consumes much-needed ARVs.

carry out tests and calibrations. The

updates its quality management systems

Wrapsa, South Africa’s largest bona fide

problems arise.’ The company also continually

ISO certification also covers testing

and implements new quality measures

pharmaceutical contract manufacturer,

and calibration performed using

to remain relevant while mitigating risk.

is set to play a major role in the country’s

standard, non-standard and laboratory

He adds: ‘We have also introduced MDW

future ARV programmes with the launch

developed methods.

systems, whereby our various teams

of its ARV manufacturing plant, which

regularly get together to discuss ideas for

best ARV plants in the country from a

Creating a memorable culture

capacity and technology perspective.

As a contract manufacturing

The plant is located in Wrapsa’s existing

and packing company,

manufacturing facility in Centurion,

Wrapsa continually

Gauteng, and will be used to support

invests in its capabilities

tender-based business emanating from the

to meet the dynamic

pharmaceutical industry.

needs of today’s

MD, Nardus Alberts believes is one of the

marketplace. As a

innovation, improved productivity and teambuilding etc.’


result, Alberts and his

With the ARV plant accomplished, the

team are systematically

company is now focusing on expanding

phasing in more

the on-site analytical laboratory. ‘There is

automated equipment into

a new ruling from the Medicines Control

the manufacturing plant. This is

Council that all pharmaceutical and

in line with the company’s policy to

CAMs products need to be stability

invest heavily in securing accreditation

tested on a regular basis,’ explains

to maintain a leading position in the

Alberts. ‘To ensure customers comply

local market.

| SEPTEMBER 2017 | P C Review

growing company, Wrapsa

Wrapsa was one of the first pharmaceutical manufacturer to receive its ISO accreditation in 1998. Since then the company has maintained its ISO ratings and currently holds ISO 9001 for quality management and ISO 22000 for foodstuffs.

Stability testing services


Despite being a large and welcomes business from customers of all sizes. ‘I’ve often had many small customers, who over the years have become big businesses. No customer is too small for Wrapsa, which is why we

believe that even if we start small, together we can both become big,’ concludes Alberts. •

Wrapsa –

Since 1983

Manufacturing • Liquids - Syrups - Suspensions - Emulsions • Creams/ointments/gels • Toothpastes • Powders/granules • Tablets (uncoated/sugar-coated/film coated) • Capsules • Caplets

Packing • Blister and strip packing of capsules, tablets, softgel caps and caplets • Sachet filling- liquids, powders, cream and ointments • Tube filling (aluminium, plastic and laminated) • Shrink-wrapping • Filling (creams, powders, liquids) • Skin and blister packing onto board • Flowpac/pillow packing of various products • Tablet/capsule packing into containers • Aerosol filling

Confidentiality The company enforces a strict confidentiality code. Full documentation accompanies all work.

WRAPSA (PTY) LTD Tel: +27 (0) 12 653 0347/8 | Fax: +27 (0) 12 653 0857


Science made beautiful Beata Wojciechowska talks to Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review about her passion for manufacturing and how her businesses, Proficos and Microbel Laboratories (Microbel), continue to go from strength to strength.


team of scientists, engineers, doctors, pharmacists, chemists and compounders. This advanced group of professionals is dedicated to delivering top quality services to its clients. Microbel’s 6 000m2 GMP-certified facility

n 2016, Proficos celebrated its 25

that is vegan certified, a flammable store,

is home to class-leading clean room

anniversary. Wojciechowska launched

semi-automatic perfume filling equipment

technology and in-house microbiological

the company while juggling family life

and various automatic filling and sealing

analytical laboratories. It is ISO accredited,

with two small children and says that

equipment for liquids, creams and lotions.

registered as a manufacturing pharmacy

some of her first clients are still with the

The company specialises in manufacturing

with the South African Pharmacy Council

company today. There are many reasons

colour cosmetics; cosmeceuticals; skin, sun

and awaiting inspection to be registered

for Proficos’ continued success, such as

care and anti-ageing products; bath and

with the Medicines Control Council.

Wojciechowska’s ability to perceive her

body products; as well as perfumes and


clients’ thoughts and being fanatical about seeing them achieve success in a competitive market. Proficos is a family business located in Sebenza, Gauteng. Its 3 400m site is 2

fine fragrances. ‘We are a highly qualified team of experts

‘At Microbel we pride ourselves in our flexibility and believe that quality is built into a product at every stage of its production,’

with extensive market knowledge and

comments responsible pharmacist,

regulatory expertise,’ says Wojciechowska.

Dominic Florczak.

This market knowledge stretches far beyond

To maintain quality standards, the

home to an R&D laboratory, full colour

the South African border to satellite offices

company uses NIR spectroscopy to analyse

matching and manufacturing facility

located in the UK and China. The former

raw materials on receipt and finished

is beneficial to clients wanting to export

goods before delivery to the client. ‘Our

compliant products to the EU while the

stringent standards are advocated by our

latter has been instrumental in securing

GMP auditors or set internally by the team.

the supply of quality packaging for its

Confidentiality is also an essential part of

local clients.

our business and our commitment to this,

The extensive R&D laboratory at Proficos

along with our high service levels, has led

A subsequent facility with advanced services Microbel is Wojciechowska’s second

to many long-standing relationships being forged with our clients,’ he adds. Microbel is entrusted with work from

business, which she established in

local and multinational companies,

2011. The company is located in

manufacturing products, which have

Midrand, Gauteng where it develops

received several Marie Claire awards and

and manufactures O/W and W/O

one product range is even endorsed by the

emulsions, creams, ointments, water-

Association of Plastic and Reconstructive

based cosmetics, lotions, sunscreens and complimentary medicines, such as tonics, ointments and suspensions. Wojciechowska says the business holds several patents and boasts a

Surgeons of Southern Africa. To ensure the continued success of both Proficos and Microbel, Wojciechowska has implemented a succession plan with her children, Melissa Florczak Van Graan and Dominic Florczak at the helm. Both of them

FAST MANUFACTURING FACTS: In 2016, 70 new products were formulated and manufactured by Proficos for various clients Proficos produces its own pigments for lipsticks The R&D teams at Proficos and Microbel have a good understanding of physiology and the human body F lexibility is paramount in both businesses, with Proficos and Microbel working extensively to meet their clients’ needs Proficos continues to streamline its processes and install more automated equipment. As a result, the company has gone from producing 6 000 units per day to 6 000 units per hour.


| SEPTEMBER 2017 | P C Review

been educated to post graduate levels at university in line with the needs of the businesses and share their mother’s ethical approach. Together they will continue to run the businesses in the same way as Wojciechowska has done for the last 25 years. •

Microbel – Proficos –

MICROBEL LABORATORIES is a cutting-edge research, development and contract manufacturing enterprise that evolved from leaders in their respective fields of science and innovation. The company is ISO accredited and registered as a manufacturer with the South African Pharmacy Council. 86 Gazelle Ave, Corporate Park South, Midrand | +27 (0)11 076 4000 |

Celebrating 25 years of Cosmetic Excellence Providing a full house experience for the design and production of bespoke cosmetics tailored to the individual needs of the client. Services include the registration of cosmetics in the European Union. Production capabilities: • Creams, Lotions, Body Butters, Sunscreens, Serums • Perfumes • Lipsticks • Nail Varnishes, Gels and Acetones • Eye Shadows, Pressed Powders • Foundations • Hair and Skin Care • Oils • Bath Preparations 16 Bundo Road, Sebenza, Edenvale | +27 (0)11 452 4948 |


What you can conceive,

Remancos will achieve


ccording to Candice

from its state of the art factory based in

also offer organic, natural and eco-

Kalil, owner of Remancos,

Johannesburg’s Strijdom Park, where its

friendly formulations, as well as unique

the company’s contract

daily production volume ranges from 25kg

packaging solutions.’

manufacturing and marketing

to seven tonnes.

expertise has set a high standard in the personal care, cosmetics and skin care industry. Remancos, short for ‘research manufacturing and cosmetics’, was launched in 2009 to assist customers with getting their cosmetics products off the drawing board and onto store shelves. ‘We also specialise in developing private label brands,’ she says. ‘Remancos is a phone call away from your success. If it can be conceived, it can be produced and marketed.’

We offer organic, natural and eco-friendly formulations, as well as unique packaging solutions She adds, ‘We manufacture new and

A specialist concept business

existing products for customers’ private

The company offers custom contract

label by utilising the resources and

manufacturing and packing solutions

unique creative skills of Remancos. We


| SEPTEMBER 2017 | P C Review

The company is flexible and prides itself on offering a turnkey solution, regardless of whether the order is small or large. ‘We have the experience, expertise and commitment to ensure that our customers’ formulations are unique and competitive in the market. Our dedicated employees are passionate about what they do and can develop and manufacture body, face and hair care products.’ If you are looking for unique, exquisitely packaged and ready-to-turn product lines to fill a niche or start a full-scale campaign, Remancos is equipped to assist you. •

Remancos –




24/7 shift pattern. They have worked through Sundays and public holidays, sacrificing precious time with their families and friends. With the new

to the table

machine, we have switched to a 24/5 pattern, giving our staff more social freedom,’ he adds. In addition to the pantyliner machine, NSP Unsgaard is home to a state of the art wet wipes machine, which was purchased in 2014.

As a world-class sanitary protection provider, NSP Unsgaard’s mission is to manufacture competitively priced, locally produced sanitary protection products. The company recently installed new machinery, doubling its output capacity. By Abby Vorster


‘We can produce a wide variety of different types of wipes for the baby market, including newborn, sensitive and toilet training wipes,’ says Rycroft. ‘There are also other high-value niche markets within this category which cannot be ignored. As a result, NSP Unsgaard has

he pantyliner market has grown

outdated. We had limited capability to

become a key producer of feminine

exponentially over the last few years.

produce basic pads and pantyliners,

intimate wipes, facial cleansing

According to a report by Nielsen

and like other local producers in this

and make-up remover wipes, and

released in January 2017, the market

market, we relied heavily on imports

household wipes.’

is valued at nearly half the value of sanitary

from Asia to meet the demand for more

pads and now supersedes tampons in value

premium products,’ says George

in the Sanpro category.

Lemon, general works manager

Jessica Rycroft, national marketing

at NSP Unsgaard. ‘Since

manager for personal care at NSP Unsgaard

installing “Tinkerbell”,

says that pantyliner usage has become

we have doubled our

increasingly prevalent among women for

production output per

everyday hygiene and to supplement other

minute, giving

forms of sanitary protection, such as pads.

us immense

‘In these cost-conscious times, usage is only going to increase as the price per

capacity growth.’ The new machine goes

pantyliner to the consumer is lower than the

a long way to strengthen

price per sanitary pad,’ she explains.

localisation and ensuring the

To meet growing market demand, NSP


Open for third party business NSP Unsgaard is actively strengthening its position

According to Nielsen, Comfitex in the local market. The is the number one pantyliner company is ISO certified brand in South Africa (July 2016) and operates according in terms of volume. This trusted product is produced locally to a quality management at NSP Ungaard’s GMP system that stretches to approved, worldits supplier base. Lemon class facility. explains: ‘We audit our raw

materials and packaging suppliers

company can meet mass market

regularly to mitigate risk as much as

Unsgaard recently acquired a pantyliner

needs for feminine care. It also gives

possible for NSP Unsgaard and most

machine from a leading manufacturer

NSP Unsgaard the capacity needed to

importantly, for the consumer. The

in Italy. It can produce different types of

enter the premium market with locally

business has evolved immensely from

pantyliners ranging from airlaid, ultra slim

produced goods.

a quality perspective and prides itself

pantyliners to fluff-based, cotton-soft options.

It’s also given the company the

on GMP. We are confident in our ability

ability to work smarter and provide its

Ushering in automation

to produce efficiently while keeping

workforce with more social freedom.

sustainability top of mind.’

‘In the past NSP Unsgaard’s manufacturing

‘Up until now, our employees had

technology for feminine care products was

been working on a continental or

Going forward, the company will be implementing a localisation strategy to enhance its ability to produce all its personal care products here in South Africa, within its world-class facility. ‘We’re also inviting potential contract manufacturing customers to partner

NSP Unsgaard’s pantyliner machine has been designed with simple operation in mind. This requirement was crucial considering the efficiency and availability in the highly competitive manufacturing environment


| SEPTEMBER 2017 | P C Review

with us and get in touch with our sales office to discuss opportunities,’ concludes Rycroft. •

NSP Unsgaard –


Master direct compression with Tablettose In pharmaceutical manufacturing, lactose is one of the most commonly used excipients. Meggle’s agglomerated lactose, Tablettose was developed specifically for direct compression.


ablettose has established itself at

compression excipient. Derivatives such

and 80 in accordance with ICH Q1A

the forefront of direct compression

as Tablettose 70 (showing outstanding

stability guidelines.

and maintained its position ever

flowability) and Tablettose 100 (defined

since. It has become an inherent

by its extraordinary compactibility)

A robust solution

part of innumerous active ingredient and

were subsequently developed to meet

α-lactose monohydrate preferentially

excipient combinations and repeatedly

the demand from R&D laboratories

proves its ability to enable what is said to be

for highly specific and

an ‘elegant way’ of manufacturing tablets.

troubleshooting excipients.

Tablettose, distributed in South Africa

A typical laser

by Amchem, is known for its very low

diffraction particle

hygroscopicity up to 90 percent R.H. at

size distribution of

20°C, as indicated by differential vapour

Tablettose 80 exhibits

sorption, enabling easy manageability

a d50 value of

and robust production processes in critical

145µm (d10 35µm,

climate zones.

d90 377µm), and a

Lactose is a white to off-white, odourless

specific BET-surface

powder with a slightly sweet taste. The

area is found in the

crystallinity of α-lactose monohydrate

range between

particles appears as monoclinic spheroidal,

0.6 and 0.7m2/g.

also known as Tomahawk-shaped.

deforms by a brittle fracture



area for intergranular

The new, even surfaces of α-lactose monohydrate also

Tablettose’s starting material is

Agglomerated α-lactose monohydrate

a compendial α-lactose monohydrate

alleviate lubricant sensitivity. A typical

is remarkably structured, representing

grade, agglomerated in a continuous

tablet tensile strength of 2.5N/mm2 for

granules that can bind API particles

process, with the exclusive use of hot

Tablettose 80 placebos may be seen at

mechanically, leading to reduced powder

water, which leads to the formation of

a corresponding compaction pressure of

segregation and subsequently reduced

robust and stable lactose granules.

250MPa. Ejection forces up to 350N are

content uniformity issues.

These diverse, rapidly formed particles

common under a lubrication load of 0.5

are subsequently dried and classified

percent magnesium stearate. •

A trend-setter and best-seller

by sieving. Finally, Tablettose grades are

As the first ever agglomerated lactose

packed into paper bags with PE-inliners

grade, Tablettose 80 was introduced to the

and a net weight of either 20 or 25kg.

Amchem – Meggle –

The shelf life, guaranteed by Meggle, Zinplex Advert.pdf 1 8/25/2017 has evolved into Cosmeceutical Meggle’s best-selling direct 10:10:39 is upAMto 36 months for Tablettose 70


resulting in a larger surface

binding. Brittle fracture Direct compression is a popular also allows for low choice because it provides the shortest, strain rate sensitivity most effective and least complex way to produce tablets. The manufacturer – a phenomenon can blend an API with the excipient and that goes hand in lubricant, followed by compression, which hand with a tablet’s makes the product easy to process. No reduced tensile additional processing steps are strength at increased required. Source: compaction speed.

pharmaceutical industry in the ’70s and


compaction mechanism,

Available for contract manufacturing From Development to Production Manufacturers of Cosmetic, Hair & Body Products






R&D, formulating and stability in our fully equipped laboratory • Small to large scale batches • Quality, efficient and friendly customer service •

mark registered

Customer confidentiality guaranteed with NDA’s in place. Zinplex Cosmeceutical (Pty) Ltd. t: 086 111 9462 • f: 012 803 9283 • e:

Terms and Conditions Apply

P C Review | SEPTEMBER 2017 |




creativity is a way of life


stablished in 2001, Brunational

The company also has a manual

manufactures for clients both

flow wrapping line for its soap division,

locally and internationally under

which has become an area of massive

their private labels and has been

growth and is now housed in a separate

ISO9001 accredited since 2005.

facility situated across the road from

Being respected and one of the

the Brunational factory. Its soap division

most innovative personal care contract

produces both glycerin and palm-oil

manufacturers in the country are central

based soaps.

to the success of Brunational. Its main hub of manufacturing activity is located

Staying ahead of the trends

in Edenvale, Gauteng. This facility

Keeping up with the times is a big

includes an R&D laboratory; deionised

focus area for Brunational. Its buyer

water plant; extensive storage areas for

and management team maintain

packaging, raw materials and bulk storage;

meaningful partnerships with its suppliers

14 packing lines; three batch lines; an

and regularly have meetings to ensure

automatic labelling machine and a shrink-

the company is well informed of the

wrapping machine, along with two tube

latest industry trends and new actives

filling machines.

and ingredients on the market.

Brunational’s tube filling area

Brunational is a member of the Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association, which helps to keep the business up to date with cutting-edge technology and continuous development in the rapidly expanding market. This knowledge sharing spans actives, adverse raw materials, packaging information and label claims, to name a few, helping to ensure the company manufactures the best possible product on the market for its clients. •

Brunational –


Cosmetic & Skin Care Manufacturers One of the most respected, innovative contract manufacturing Companies in Gauteng, established in 2001 and a proud ISO9001 accredited Company since 2005 recognised both domestically and internationally in the cosmetics and toiletries market. Research & Development Lab. Manufacturing from 5kg right up to 5000kg. Private brand packing & labelling in clients packaging/components. Focused, committed, dynamic and service driven Company, priding ourselves on being flexible and talking directly to our customers to ensure they have the products to sell that meets their needs and ensuring high quality, value and total customer service.

....................Turning ideas into profit……………….. Street: 12 Bundo Road, Sebenza, Edenvale • Postal: P.O. Box 9531, Edenglen, 1613 • Phone: 011 609 4066 Fax: 011 609 4079 • Email:


| SEPTEMBER 2017 | P C Review



innovation into ideas A packing line at Dabur South Africa


Dabur South Africa is a large, customer-orientated contract manufacturer. Its expertise in the Ethnic market is ideally suited to ensure customers’ innovative hair and skin care product ideas reach their full potential. By Abby Vorster

t’s been five months

levels from the entrepreneur and small

since Dabur South Africa

business owner to medium size and

solutions tailored to meet the needs of

acquired the business of

multinational companies.’

consumers. This makes formulations

CTL Contracting. During

The company’s expertise lies in the

‘We develop custom formulation

developed by Dabur South Africa directly

growing and highly lucrative Ethnic hair

aligned to our customers’ brand messages

invested a significant amount

and skin care category. Its team has more

and performance goals,’ he adds.

into improving the capabilities

than 30 years’ experience in developing

this time, the company has

facility with new technology

products for the Ethnic market. Some of

Quality control and regulatory compliance

and equipment. This includes

of its Edenvale-based manufacturing

and producing innovative hair care the most successful products in this market

Dabur South Africa understands that

establishing a new production line

have been developed and manufactured

quality is critical to every one of its

to position the facility as a contract

by Dabur South Africa.

customers and their end-users. All products

We are confident in our formulation capabilities, which are supported by an excellent R&D facility and extensive regulatory knowledge

manufactured by the company conform

manufacturing hub for customers from various African countries. ‘Dabur South Africa is not only localising the manufacturing of its in-house products but also servicing customers’ increasing needs for a specialist Ethnic hair and skin care third party manufacturer,’ says Salil Dhingra, business head of Dabur South Africa. The most recent equipment commissioned by the contract manufacturer is a sachet filling machine for creams and liquids. This automated machine can produce about one million units monthly. The sachet filling machine complements Dabur South Africa’s existing aerosol facility, which

to a high standard of quality and are regulatory compliant. The company is a member of the Cosmetic, Toiletry & Fragrance Association of South Africa and the Aerosol Manufacturers’ Association of South Africa, and is working towards obtaining its GMP certification by the end of the year. ‘Our customers are an extension of our business. As a listed company with a 135year history in international markets, Dabur South Africa has strong business ethics and the drive to ensure our customers are successful. We are confident in our formulation capabilities, which are supported by an excellent R&D facility

produces approximately 500 000

and extensive regulatory knowledge,’ says

units monthly and its two liquid lines,

Dhingra. ‘Our knowledge of procurement

which can produce up to one million

is another plus point for customers, who

units monthly.

often aren’t equipped to source raw materials and packaging materials at the

Tailored solutions for Ethnic care

best possible rates to grow their businesses.

‘While we are a large contract

owners turn their product ideas into

manufacturer, we are still flexible

reality, ensuring their success in

and customer-oriented,’ Dhingra

the marketplace.’ •

Dabur South Africa is here to help brand

comments. ‘Dabur South Africa currently has capacity for a lot of new business and welcomes all

Dabur South Africa –

P C Review | SEPTEMBER 2017 |



Judging day highlights Good quality formulations, some great packaging design and components and the use of interesting actives were some of the highlights of the 2017 Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review/Symrise New Product Competition (NPC) judging day.


his year 18 entries were received and

of the judging takes global trends into consideration

although there was a decline in the number

while bearing in mind the developments and

of entries from last year’s competition, the

challenges within the local market.

judges agreed the quality of this year’s

products far surpassed that of previous years. The entries were analysed by an esteemed panel

to wow the formulation judges. Why? Because

of judges on 27 July at Media Park, the home of

cosmetics are viewed as luxury goods and that’s

New Media Publishing, located in Auckland Park,

what consumers want from them. They want quality,


good skin feel and most importantly, results.

The panel included Percy Sibanda, L’Oréal’s Regulations judge, Percy Sibanda

A cutting-edge formulation and the innovative use of good and interesting actives are needed

While the judges did highlight several good

scientific and regulatory affairs advisor for sub-

quality formulations incorporating interesting

Saharan Africa and regulatory compliance expert

actives, they said the industry continues to play it

and industry consultant, Jill Gardiner. Sibanda and

safe with no ‘knock your socks off innovation’. This

Gardiner judged the regulations criteria and continue

could be due to a loss of appetite for risk, which

to make a valuable contribution in terms of steering

often results during challenging economic times.

the direction of the competition. Judging formulation

Regulations judge, Jill Gardiner

design and aesthetics were Robyn Brown, owner of

Embrace the internet

Botanichem and Elizna Hurter, manager of the chemist

All brands, regardless of the industry or market

department at Skin Chem Laboratories. Brown and

they cover, must have the full marketing spread,

Hurter were both new to the 2017 judging panel and

from branding and advertising to a digital

brought a fresh edge to the formulation category.

marketing campaign, including social media, to be

Packaging industry consultants Clive Glover and

successful. This is because an innovative product

Tony de Beer judged all packaging aspects of the

or range could easily fail if it’s not backed by a

competition, while Adele Du Toit, Annique’s marketing

comprehensive marketing strategy. Sadly, with

manager, assessed the marketing section.

many of the entries, social media seems to be an afterthought when it is in fact ‘low hanging fruit’

Take the risk and innovate It takes creativity and innovation to succeed in

It was clear to see the established brands are the

today’s competitive cosmetics and personal

ones with effective digital marketing campaigns

industry, both locally and in the global marketplace.

and a strong presence on social media, while newer

As the competition is open to local and Marketing judge, Adele Du Toit

waiting to be picked.

brands on the market are lacking in this regard. The

international products – which are available in South

marketing judge also came across a few inactive

Africa – the formulation design and aesthetics section

Twitter or Facebook pages, which she cautioned can be more damaging to a brand than no social media presence at all.

Compliance continues to develop The positive effect of the competition in helping brands to comply with regulations can be seen in repeat entrants that have Formulation judges, Elizna Hurter and Robyn Brown


| SEPTEMBER 2017 | P C Review

Packaging judges, Clive Glover and Tony de Beer


paid attention to the judges’ feedback

systems, elegant finishes and a few unique

be revealed on 5 October at the awards

and implemented it accordingly. Sadly,

additional elements on packs.

ceremony, taking place at The Venue

there are still those entrants who choose

Greenpark, in Sandton, Johannesburg. •

to ignore what is deemed highly valuable

A celebration worth attending

feedback and will soon be required by

Deemed the ‘Oscars’ of the industry, the

law as the current regulatory environment

NPC has become a valuable source of

is in transition from self-regulation to full

expert feedback which is

regulation by the Department of Health.

provided to all entrants after

According to the regulatory judges,

the awards evening. This

Symrise –

Who entered in 2017?

medicinal claims on cosmetics products

feedback includes advice

continue to be a problem. Making these

on marketing, branding

claims isn’t going to help a brand score

and social media; how the

points with consumers. The brand will

entrants can improve their

just lose their trust when they realise

packaging; guidance in terms

the product can’t for example alter the

of regulatory compliance

structure of their skin, as initially promised

and where the products have

• dr.dermal | The Repair Balm

on its packaging.

done well or are lacking when

• dr.dermal | Total Rejuvenation Eye Cream

it comes to aesthetics and

Packaging quality is improving Both the judges agreed the quality of

formulation design. While every product entered

packaging sourced from China continues

receives extensive exposure in

to improve. Sourcing from the far east is

P&C Review and on our online

a reality in the South African cosmetics

platform, www.pharmacos.

industry for many reasons, including, the brand owner of

high minimum order requirements and

the winning product receives

exorbitant prices from local suppliers.

a trip to in-cosmetics 2018,

There were some innovative packaging

taking place in Amsterdam,

• Bellabaci International | Genies in a Bottle Range • dr.dermal | Texture Correction Lotion

• Essel Products | Aesthet Acne Gel • Henkel SA | Schwarzkopf Professional BC Fibre Force • Henkel SA | Schwarzkopf Professional BC Repair Rescue Nutri-Shield Serum • House of Zinplex | Zinplex Tattoo Range • Imbalie Beauty | Placecol Illuminé Retinol Serum

options on the table this year, with

The Netherlands from 17 to 19

both new and established brands

April. The prize includes flights,

paying increased attention to how their

accommodation and entry

• Marple Skin Care | Equilibre Range

products are packaged and the overall

into the exhibition.

• NSP Unsgaard | Cherubs Eco Facial Wipes

presentation of their brand. The judges commended the use of novel dispensing

The winner of the 2017 P&C Review/Symrise NPC will

• Imbalie Beauty | Skinderm Range

• RégimA Skin Treatments | RégimA SpaZone • Six Sensational Skincare | Six Man • Skoon. Skin Care | Retinin Resurfacing Moisturiser • Sorbet Man | Sorbet Man Skin and Beard Care Range • Sorbet Salon Skin | Sorbet 3 in 1 Micellar Cleansing Water • Woolworths | Longmarket Barber

P C Review | SEPTEMBER 2017 |





With its Centre of Excellence for Hair Care, IMCD South Africa offers expert formulation and analytical assistance to ensure continuous growth for its partners. The company shares some of its new ideas for product development using innovative ingredients from its international supplier partners.


he Ethnic care category is experiencing

award in the category Best New Functional Ingredient

trend towards natural styles, especially for

at in-cosmetics 2017. FiberHance BM Solution is a

hair. The market for relaxers is reported to

novel, patented ingredient that strengthens and

have suffered a significant decrease, caused by a

repairs internal hair fibres by creating additional bonds

rise in popularity of natural hair styles and a desire for

within the hair structure. It is a small, low molecular

less harmful ingredients.

weight molecule based on a unique natural glucoside

One size fits all is no longer relevant as consumers


continue to demand more customised products to meet their hair care needs. This is even truer for Ethnic consumers, considering their distinct hair

Hair repair, strengthening, moisturisation and fast drying are some of the current buzz words inspiring new product development in the Ethnic hair care category.

types and textures. Four years ago, IMCD South Africa launched

chemistry, which allows penetration deep into the hair fibre up to the cortex. It can be used in a neutralising shampoo to help restore hair to its original condition. Another hot active ingredient for Ethnic hair care is CLR’s Follicusan, which prevents accelerated hair loss through vitalisation of the hair follicles, helping

a Centre of Excellence for Hair Care with a

to prevent the progress of alopecia androgenetica

special focus on Ethnic hair. Since its inception,

in women.

the lab has carried out projects centred specifically on hair improvement and repair, with a particular focus on hair growth. Projects have

been shared with local and overseas customers,

Hydrovance from Azko Nobel promotes hair cuticle repair, reversing the damage effects of UV exposure and colouring or bleaching. Wacker Belsil DM 5102 E and ADM 6301 E can

showcasing ingredients from IMCD’s leading

be used in shampoos and conditioners to deliver

international suppliers. These supplier partners

‘fast-drying’ claims. DM 5102 E is a dimethicone with

include Ashland, Grant Industries, Akzo Nobel, Jan

a small particle size for efficient deposition, while

Dekker and Wacker, to name just a few.

ADM 6301 E is a film-forming macro emulsion of an

Since its inception, the lab has carried out projects centred specifically on hair improvement and repair

amino-functional silicone for fast drying effects and

Supplier network with advanced ingredients

grooming of damaged thick or curly hair. Used in

As a private label of IMCD, Jan Dekker

hair drying times.

combination, these ingredients drastically accelerate

delivers the highest quality oils and butters including argan oil, avocado oil and shea

Fit-for-market formulations

butter. These are essential ingredients for

IMCD South Africa’s Centre of Excellence for Hair Care

enhancing the moisturising and nourishing

is currently working on multiple projects, developing fit-

benefits of any Ethnic hair care formulation.

for-market formulations. These are based on the above

Granrepair Powerbond from Grant Industries acts by protecting existing disulfide bonds, as well as reconnecting broken

mentioned key ingredients to fulfil consumers’ needs in line with the latest market trends. With its technical expertise, insight into global

ones caused by excessive bleaching, over-

trends, local market knowledge and a portfolio of

processing and frequent flat iron use. Its

premium ingredients, IMCD South Africa helps its

innovative composition provides increased

customers to bring winning products to market. •

deposition to the hair with less potential

for unwanted wash-off, resulting in outstanding softening, shine and improved wet and dry combing performance.


Ashland’s FiberHance BM Solution won the Gold

continuous growth thanks to the worldwide

| SEPTEMBER 2017 | P C Review

IMCD South Africa – www.imcdgroup. com/worldwide/south-africa


The business of

healthy hair Dorah Kgatla and Harold Malepe from Evonik Africa

discuss consumers’ concerns in this category and how to develop innovative products using raw materials from the company.


epending on a woman’s

issues that stem from using relaxers.

and fully understand each region’s unique

hairstyle and her hair type,

Luckily though, multinational and local

needs and requirements.

there is usually an array of hair

brand owners and manufacturers are

concerns she could be facing,

increasingly developing specialised hair

universal solution to overcome consumers’

from manageability issues to dryness. It will

care solutions for Ethnic women and their

hair care problems worldwide, we have

take a lot of effort to try convincing black

varying hair types.

developed raw materials that can assist with

women to stop relaxing their hair. Just as

While we acknowledge there is no

a wide variety of these needs. As a result,

trying to get Asian women to refrain from

Fresh formulation ideas

we have produced a hair care travel kit to

using flat irons and Caucasian women from

Evonik continues to invest heavily in its

cover the most common hair problems.

bleaching their hair are likely to be met with

R&D to better understand the needs of the

Our Rebalancing Leave-in Conditioner will

a lot of resistance.

Ethnic hair care market. Our South African

help provide hair with much needed protein

personal care team regularly travel to sub-

while conditioning and promoting the

Saharan African countries to be closer to

growth of healthy hair fibres. For consumers

Dandruff, splits ends, a receding hair line and a dry scalp are some of the

with braids who love multitasking, Evonik

Table 1: Formulation guide

offers an easy to apply Odour Absorbing





and Conditioning Hair Milk (see Table 1) to





fit in with their busy lifestyles. To help soothe





and nourish the scalp, our variety of hair oil


Zinc Ricineolate


Odour control active

formulations are highly recommended. We


PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate


Solubiliser, improves skin feel

also have a Deep Treatment Hair Masque


PEG/PPG-4/12 Dimethicone


Improves wet/dry combing

formulated with Lactil and nature’s trusted


Bis-(Isostearoyl/Oleoyl Isopropyl) Dimonium Methosulfate


Hair conditioner

oils to leave hair feeling soft, revitalised







Odour absorbing and conditioning hair milk

and moisturised. •

Evonik –

It’s about you, naturally We care about nature, that’s why 90% of our products are based on renewable sources

We ensure our products are safe for you to use We deliver on our products’ promised performance Evonik Africa (Pty) Ltd IBG Business Park, Midrand, South Africa t +27 11 697 0724 |


| SEPTEMBER 2017 | P C Review

Leading supplier of raw material for hair care products.

H&R is a leading brand in the hair care, personal care and cosmetics industries. For almost 100 years H&R has been known to supply top-quality products backed by class-leading service. H&R continues to supply premium quality raw material for hair care and personal care applications. In Africa, H&R is a trusted name for many global brands in the hair care, cosmetics and personal care industries. We offer a wide range of cosmetic white oils and petroleum jelly products to these trusted brands suited to the distinctive needs of African consumers. We connect industries through class leading products and services; see how we can connect your business to the African market.

113 Trindad Road, Island View, Durban 4052, South Africa Tel: +27 (0)31 466 8700 Fax: +27 (0)31 466 8716 E-mail:


Restoring skin to its

natural beauty

Besides the more common skin care concerns, sensitive skin and reduced facial volume are also areas of interest for Ethnic consumers. Through Lipotec, Savannah Fine Chemicals is promoting Adifyline peptide and Delisens peptide to address these concerns. Figure 1: Real 3D images of a volunteer at day 0 (left) and after 14 days of applying a cream with Acetyl Hexapeptide-38 (right)


he Ethnic market is increasingly facing

sensitive skin issues. This condition includes indicators like prickling, burning, tingling, pain or itching, occasional erythema and

flushing, negatively affecting one’s quality of life. These can be induced by several environmental aggressors such as pollution, UV radiation, dryness and heat; personal care products such as cosmetics and soap; psychological conditions like stress and hormonal factors1. Sensitive skin may worsen and give rise to inflammatory and/or pruritic chronic disorders such as atopic dermatitis dry skin and acne, which share a common pattern of barrier impairment and increased vascular reactivity.

Repairing sensitive and damaged skin

In clinical studies, Acetyl Hexapeptide-49 was shown to diminish PAR-2 activity, CGRP, IL-6 and IL-8 release, reducing neurogenic inflammation and itch. In an in vitro 3D-skin model, it was also proven to efficiently

During inflammation, a specific type of sensory

counteract the release of cytokines induced by

neuron releases peptides and neurotransmitters

cosmetics allergens. It stimulated human keratinocyte

acting on target cells and leading to further

proliferation, which assists the re-epithelisation and

inflammation. Proteinase Activated Receptor 2 (PAR-

repairing process of damaged skin. It also helped

2) participates in the release of some cytokines, such

prevent further damage by protecting human dermal

as Interleukin-6 (IL-6) and IL-8, and it is also involved in

fibroblasts from UV radiation.

the delay of barrier function recovery. When skin is exposed to allergens, PAR-2 is

In vivo test results show Delisens peptide reduced the stinging sensation in the short and long term as

stimulated inducing an allergic inflammation and

well as the pain, redness and discomfort induced by

directly affecting the structure and function of the

lactic acid. It also eased the stinging and burning

epidermal barrier.

sensation linked to capsaicin and enhanced

Lipotec has designed a novel hexapeptide in response to the needs of sensitive skin. Delisens

skin moisturisation. Considering the extensive benefits of Delisens

peptide (INCI name Acetyl Hexapeptide-49)

peptide, it proves an excellent candidate to reduce

diminishes the PAR-2-induced release of pro-

the PAR-2 induced release of pro-inflammatory

inflammatory mediators, calming neurogenic

mediators, lessening disorders linked to sensitive skin

inflammation and relieving irritation in sensitive skin.

and itching.

It could also facilitate damaged barrier function restoration, preventing further inflammation.

Hexapeptide to enhance facial volume Reduced facial volume in Ethnic or darker skin tones occurs because of a reduction in skin-connected adipose tissue, which acts as a supporting component. Adipose tissue is a specialised connective tissue found beneath the skin. It has two variants, depending on the main function of the tissue and its main cells (adipocytes). Its growth can be stimulated in certain areas, such as the face, breasts, buttocks, lips or hands. In humans, brown adipose tissue (BAT) is present in a minute percentage (five percent). It is essential in newborns and at early stages of human life. The natural ageing process reduces this low quantity, making white adipose tissue (WAT) the most abundant tissue in adults. Adipogenesis is the process where preadipocytes convert into mature adipocytes. It is a complex


| SEPTEMBER 2017 | P C Review

ETHNIC CARE process where the typical genes of mature

Adifyline peptide (INCI name: Acetyl

in WAT. The results of the in vivo tests

adipocytes must be expressed while

Hexapeptide-38), a new hexapeptide

showed cheek volume increased by

the distinctive genes of preadipocytes

from Lipotec, is based on this mode of

almost 12 percent with respect to the initial

need to be down-regulated or almost

activity. It is ideal for formulating products

time (see Figure 1).

inhibited2. Certain key factors are

aimed at increasing fat tissue volume in

required for differentiation. Peroxisome

specific areas while diminishing the visible

Adifyline peptide is an ideal ingredient

proliferator-activated Receptor-Gamma

effects of ageing.

to augment local volume while delaying

(PPARγ) and Peroxisome proliferator-

Considering these positive results,

skin’s natural ageing process. This hexapeptide can provide a replenishing

1 alpha (PGC-1α) are both indispensable

Proven to augment facial volume

transcriptional factors for this maturation

Acetyl Hexapeptide-38 increases

and can improve the silhouette. •

to occur.

adipocyte maturation in WAT by

activated receptor-Gamma Coactivator

In WAT cells, a high induction of PGC-

increasing the levels of PGC-1α,

effect in specific zones like cheeks or lips


1α expression during ex vivo human

facilitating lipid accumulation in mature

subcutaneous preadipocyte differentiation

adipocytes and local volume growth.

was perceived, rising to the levels found

These properties have been confirmed

in mature adipocytes3. This data confirms

in in vitro and in vivo tests, showing that

that PGC-1α co-activates PPARγ in WAT,

lipid accumulation was satisfactorily

potentiating the expression of genes linked

superior, possibly due to a higher

to adipocyte differentiation and resulting in

number of mature adipocytes with the

adipogenesis stimulation.

ability to store the lipids. A visible volume

thermogenic nuclear hormone receptor coactivator PGC-1α

growth was observed in the tested areas,

is reduced in the adipose tissue of morbidly obese subjects.

If PGC-1α expression increased, the adipocyte maturation rate would grow,

which include the face and breast.

increasing the number of adipocytes

Acetyl Hexapeptide-38 improved

capable of storing lipids. Fat deposits

adipocyte differentiation increasing in

would be formed easier and fat tissue

vitro PGC-1α levels by 61.1 percent and

volume augmented in the desired area.

raising lipid accumulation by 32.4 percent

1. Ständer S, Schneider SW, Weishaupt C, et al. Putative neuronal mechanisms of sensitive skin. Exp Dermatol. 18(5): 417 – 423, 2009. 2. Gerhold DL, Liu F, Jiang G, et al. Gene expression profile of adipocyte differentiation and its regulation by peroxisome proliferator-activated receptor-gamma agonists. Endocrinology. 143 (6): 2106-18, 2002. 3. Semple RK, Crowley VC, Sewter CP, et al. Expression of the

International Journal of Obesity. 28: 176-179, 2004.

Lipotec – Savannah Fine Chemicals –

P C Review | SEPTEMBER 2017 |



A unique approach to tailoring


African consumers have their own specific needs and desires, particularly when it comes to their hair. Clariant is paying attention to these demands with a unique cost performance strategy to ensure its innovative personal care products are relevant to the local market. By Abby Vorster

espite its leading global positioning,

with Clariant, we’ve identified a need to provide

providing focused local and regional

our smaller to mid-sized customers with a

technical support is

platform for innovation. So, we invite them

equally important to

to the laboratory for training

Clariant to grow its market share in

and brainstorming sessions

the Ethnic care category.

to help us tailor our solutions

Kumaren Naidoo, Clariant’s

according to their new product

business unit head for

development needs.’

industrial and consumer

Precious hair has unique needs

specialties explains: ‘Using the smart molecules developed

One example of a formulation

by Clariant’s innovation

that can be tailored to the

centre based in Frankfurt,

needs of the South African

Germany, and market insight fed through from our

Kumaren Naidoo

sales team to the application laboratory based in Eubsa,

Ethnic care category is Clariant’s Oil for Precious Hair leave-on conditioner formulated with Plantasens Abyssinian Oil.

Turkey, Clariant is equipped to develop market relevant formulations that are balanced in terms of cost and performance.’ The application lab in

How it works is Clariant’s R&D experts, at its application lab in Turkey, take an innovative formulation or product, which is backed by clinical testing for efficacy and claim substantiation, and tailor it to Ethnic

Turkey plays an important

consumers’ hair or skin care needs using a cost

role in the development

performance strategy. ‘The performance of the

of solutions for mid-sized and smaller customers

tailor-made formulation is then compared to its European premium equivalent to establish a

in South Africa.

pattern that balances performance and cost,’

‘While multinational

comments Naidoo.

companies have their own interface

He says organic oils, like the Plantasens Abyssinian Oil, are seen as premium products

Leading global supplier of cosmetic waxes and spheres

Tel: +27 11 473 1373 Email:



| SEPTEMBER 2017 | P C Review

ETHNIC CARE Table 1: Oil for Precious Hair

in the South African market and hold great value in terms of their relevance to local


consumers. This particular oil is cold-pressed, natural, sourced from the sun-drenched African highlands and filled with benefits only the African earth can provide. It illuminates hair and nourishes the skin without a greasy after





Plantasens Abyssinian Oil

Crambe Abyssinica Seed Oil


Plantasens Olive LD

Hydrogenated Ethylhexyl Olivate, Hydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiables


Plantasens AJO

Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil, Crambe Abyssinica Seed Oil, Orbignya Oleifera Seed Oil


Plantasens Carefeel Alba

Limnanthes Ala (Meadowfoam Seed Oil (and) Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Extract





Perfume Oeillet



feel thanks to its ultra-light texture. When compared to Argan, coconut and meadowfoam oils, Abyssinian Oil provided the most shine to hair without weighing it down. It is also proven to improve hair’s manageability and leave it feeling softer and lighter, making the oil ideal for use in leave on products for virgin or natural hair. Using a naturally inspired concept, Clariant tested the power of Abyssinian Oil in a leave-on formulation called Oil for Precious Hair (see Table 1 for the formulation guide). Its R&D team combined sophisticated oils and blends to create a concept formulation that


Oil for Precious Hair is more effective than an oil benchmark and even more effective than a conditioner at controlling frizz when tested on five swatches of Brazilian hair


The product was tested on a number of parameters including its ability to aid

manageability and control frizz. The Natural oils continue to be a popular results showed that Oil for Precious product source for the Ethnic hair care category. Natural hair care bloggers Hair is 2.4 times more effective rave about these oils, saying they’ve than an oil benchmark and ‘been using them for years to make 3.4 times more effective their hair softer, shinier and than a conditioner at even stronger’. Source: www. controlling frizz. •

delivers unique care benefits, aids manageability and keeps hair looking shiny and healthy.

Clariant –

*Studies done on Relaxed African Hair

Johannesburg Thureya Sarlie Tel +27 (0)11 922 1636 Email AECI Chempark, 200 Bergrivier Drive, Chloorkop, Kempton Park, 1624

“Our expertise, your solution”

Chemsystems, a division of AECI

P C Review | SEPTEMBER 2017 |



A botanical solution for split ends Nourishing natural oils are very trendy in the Ethnic hair care category. To address spilt ends, Botanichem says the cold pressed oil, Trichomega is an ideal ingredient.

Argan oil is highly acclaimed for its numerous beneficial qualities. It improves the skin’s barrier function and neutralises free radicals. With its high vitamin E content, argan oil is an effective emollient that restores elasticity and repairs damaged skin. Botanica Natural Products offers both conventional and organic pure argan oil, which is imported directly from the source, at the foot of the Atlas mountains in Morroco. It is quickly absorbed by the skin and is non greasy. To find out more about our range of oils and certified plant extracts


richoptilosis or split ends are an extremely common problem for all hair types, especially hair that is coarse and curly.

This hair type tends to be naturally dry which exacerbates the situation. Hair is made up of the cuticle, which is the outer layer of dead cells protecting the inner structure. The cuticle is made up of long coiled proteins. Breakage and split ends occur when the cuticle is worn away causing the strands to split or unravel. Damage can be caused by excessive heat styling, using inferior styling tools, environmental damage, lack of maintenance, chemical treatments, over washing and improper detangling techniques. While it is impossible to repair split ends once they have occurred, they can be prevented by protecting and nourishing the hair. Hair that is well moisturised and nourished is less likely to experience split ends. Products formulated with ingredients that repair the protein structure and replenish moisture are ideal in this regard.

Botanical gold from the rainforest Cobiosa, represented locally by Botanichem, has created Trichomega – a natural cold pressed oil extracted from the nut of the Sacha Inchi tree, which is native to the Amazon. The oil is cold pressed to retain the natural goodness and beneficial properties. Trichomega contains high concentrations of polyunsaturated fatty

acids and has an average of 48 percent Omega 3, 37 percent Omega 6 and eight percent Omega 9. It is said to be an outstanding additive for promoting faster hair growth as it

feeds the follicles, stimulating growth. It also restores the lipid layer, which is the only continuous structure found in hair, making it more resistant to breakage and split ends. Trichomega can give hair beautiful shine and improve its appearance. It is ideal for inclusion in hair treatments that address the main issues associated with hair breakage. Suitable applications include hair treatment masks, lotions to prevent and improve split ends, treatments to improve hair shine and formulations that improve weak and dry hair. •

Botanichem –


| SEPTEMBER 2017 | P C Review


Ingredients for tailored care Although the biochemical composition of Ethnic hair is identical to that of Caucasian or Asian hair, morphologically it is different in terms of elasticity and comb-ability, which results in different product needs. Essential Specialised Products (ESP) discusses a variety of ingredients to meet these needs. Table 1

Product code

INCI name


Multifunctional benefits

22045 Active.Lite Hair – for bleaching

Polyquarternium-80 & Water & Pisum Sativum (Pea) Peptide & Selaginella Lepidophylla Extract

This active ionically binds to hair cuticles offering immediate and long-term protection from harsh chemical treatments.

•c  hemically resilient material •u  tilises matrix-style scaffolding • s trengthens hair • moisturises

22046 Active.Lite Hair – for relaxing

Polyquaternium-80 & Water & Pisum Sativum (Pea) Peptide & Selaginella Lepidophylla Extract & Sclerocarya Birrea Fruit Extract

This active utilises a highly effective 3D hybrid biopolymer to support the hair fibre throughout the harsh chemical treatment while still allowing the relaxer to penetrate for optimal results.

• r estores resilience • reduces breakage • s trengthens and protects hair

16824 AC Kerazyme Protect

Hydrolysed Keratin & Bambusa Arundinacea Leaf Extract & Trametes Versicolor Extract

This active protects against colour fade, UV damage and thermal stressors by structurally improving the integrity of the hair cuticle.

• seals the cuticle • natural and safe •n  ourishes and conditions the cuticle • improves curl retention

20488 AC Keratin Hydrolysate Silox

Water & Hydrolysed Vegetable Protein PG-Propyl Silanetriol

This active penetrates the cortex to repair and build strength from within the hair for more manageable, healthier locks.

• improves comb-ability • reduces breakage • enhances shine and smoothness • forms a protective film • intense moisture binding capacity


here are five classifications of Ethnic hair, all of which are variations of curly hair. They range from a looser curl texture to a tightly curled or coiled texture. Tightly curled hair is more susceptible to breakage, often exacerbated

by styling tools that elongate the curl. ESP represents several international suppliers that offer innovative and practical solutions to meet the needs of this group of consumers. CRM produces Abyssinian Oil, which provides an excellent lipid after-feel with improved manageability and conditioning. It has a light feeling, non-greasy sensorial profile that is suitable for hair and skin care products. It also deeply conditions hair to protect and restore its healthy attributes. In skin care applications, it offers superior moisturisation.

Bespoke ingredients Ethnic hair, like all hair types, requires tailored protection from intentional and unintentional stressors to defend it from damage. This can be caused by chemical processes, such as colouring or bleaching, and mechanical processes such as heat styling to keep hair stronger and more radiant. If proper care is not taken, these stressors will cause hair to become overly porous, dry, brittle and more susceptible to breakage. ESP says the products in Table 1 protect tresses from a range of chemical and mechanical stressors as well as prolong colour fade and help with managing frizz. •

Essential Specialised Products –

P C Review | SEPTEMBER 2017 |



Create beautiful African hair with Croda

In recent consumer focus groups conducted by

Croda South Africa, the company asked a panel of consumers what five benefits they want from a hair

The global speciality chemicals company has recognised the importance of testing its products in Africa on African hair. Croda is committed to this strategy because of the differences perceived in how ingredients and formulations interact on Black African hair when compared to African American hair.

care product. Their responses have provided Croda

he most common hair and scalp concerns

Croda recently completed another African hair study

Figure 1: Mean values of TEWL front and back assessment scores for the test product and the control at Day 0, two, six, eight, 14 and 16


among African women include hair breakage, scalp itching, excessive flaking and hair loss at the crown and temples. Hair care products popular

among African women, include hair food, gels, spritzers and relaxers, all of which have been implicated in hair fragility and loss. Hair care regimes further complicate these issues, especially an itchy and flaking scalp. It is important to recognise the difference between dry flaking scalp and dandruff.

with insightful data. When compared to products currently on the market, it is clear these five benefits need to be prioritised by Croda’s customers and within its Centre of Excellence for African Hair. The company will therefore focus its efforts on these needs to ensure it is meeting the demands of local consumers.

Putting DuraQuench IQ SA to the test in partnership with the Photobiology Laboratory at the Sefako Makgatho Health Sciences University. The objective was to assess the efficacy of a leaveon aftercare moisturising product formulated with Croda’s DuraQuench IQ SA on the scalp. The study was performed on 40 healthy African women with previously relaxed (damaged) hair. Once daily, the product was applied on the scalp and gently massaged in using the fingertips. The study ran for 16 days with assessments carried out in a blind un-paired fashion for six days during this period. Half the panelists had a test product containing Croda’s DuraQuench IQ SA; the other half used a control product. Protocol included training the panelists on how to apply the product efficiently. They were also acclimatised in a temperature and humidity controlled room for 20 minutes prior to assessments on all six days. Trans-Epidermal Water Loss (TEWL) tests were done using the Biox Aquaflux with hydration measurements taken in two places on the scalp. These locations were demarcated on each panelist to ensure the same location was measured for each of the readings.

Figure 2: Mean values of visual front and back assessment scores for the test product and the control at Day 0, two, six, eight, 14 and 16

Results showed a statistically significant improvement of the front scalp barrier function after 16 days of applying the test product containing Croda’s DuraQuench IQ SA when compared to the control. There was also a statistically significant improvement of the back-scalp barrier function after 14 and 16 days of applying the test product when compared to the control (see Figure 1). A statistically significant visual improvement of the front and back-scalp hydration was seen after six, eight, 14 and 16 days of applying the test product when compared to the control product (see Figure 2). •

Croda –


| SEPTEMBER 2017 | P C Review

Happy Scalp for Happy Hair

DuraQuench IQ SA TM

Day 0

Statistical significant visual improvement of the front and back scalp hydration after 6, 8, 14 and 16 days of applying test product vs. control TEWL assessment yielded significant differences in terms of improvement in scalp barrier function Suitable for use in: Shampoos, conditioners and leave in products Inclusion level: 2.5-5% ‘Proudly tested in Africa ‘

Day 16

For more information, formulations or samples, please contact us. Visit us at Europe, Middle East & Africa North America Latin America Asia Pacific

Innovation you can build on™

@crodaPC Croda Personal Care

Applied daily for a period of 16 days

PHARMACEUTICAL FOCUS//Supply Chain & Distribution

Solutions for a sensitive sector VALUE-ADDED WAREHOUSING ACTIVITIES BOLLORÉ LOGISTICS’ TEAMS in South Africa have successfully partnered with Clarins South Africa on a value-added warehousing solution. The renewable contract is for a five-year period and operations have been successfully launched, after many months of planning and implementation. These operations will showcase the quality of

Today’s increasingly stringent regulations and a rise in outsourcing and globalisation of production require even greater flexibility from supply chains in the health care sector. To support all pharmaceutical industry operators, Bolloré Logistics offers custom-fit solutions.


Bolloré Logistics Supply Chain activities in Africa. The operations started on 4 January 2017, following a five-month implementation period. Bolloré Logistics teams created a dedicated space of 2 800m² in its Pomona warehouse (Johannesburg), equipped with storage racks on seven levels that can accommodate 2 400 paletts, with the potential for additional facilities for future expansion and growth.

he worldwide pharmaceutical

extensive. It offers multimodal transport,

In order to allow for the preparation of a large volume

distribution chain can benefit

air and ocean chartering. Its refrigerated

of retail orders, under the best security conditions,

from Bolloré Logistics’ wide

air and ocean containers are equipped

the warehouse has been equipped with dynamic

range of solutions. These include

with real-time temperature tracking while

shelving and a short rolling conveyor for transporting

its warehouses are temperature controlled

prepared packages. The operations are run by Bolloré

the warehousing and distribution of pharmaceutical products, management of medicines from multiple origins to ‘pharmerging’ countries and multimodal cold chain management. Its solutions incorporate the recommendations for transit services set out in the good distribution practices (GDP) guidelines and comply with GMP in

The company is equipped to manage aid and relief flows from multiple countries to ‘pharmerging’ markets

respect of all storage

and managed in terms

Logistics’ WMS – SQUARE (the computer system for

of inventory.

managing the warehouse).

Postponement and

After just one week of operations, the client’s

product labelling,

orders are being handled on time with the required

order preparation and

quality and operations have stabilised. The value-

kitting are just some

added operations of kitting and co-packing are

of Bolloré Logistics’

already under way and approximately 3 300 000

value added services

units will be prepared and dispatched in 2017,

for pharmaceutical

destined for both South Africa and export.

and biotechnology

Clarins has placed its confidence in Bolloré

companies. The

Logistics South Africa thanks to the quality of its

company is also

technical solution and commercial proposal, which

equipped to manage

adequately fits with Clarins’ supply chain and

aid and relief flows

business development strategy in the long run.

from multiple countries to ‘pharmerging’

Clarins South Africa’s senior management looks forward to the collaboration with Bolloré Logistics. The Bolloré Logistics South Africa teams remain

and postponement activities.

markets, and offers specific operations for

To ensure the integrity of

isotropic and psychotropic drugs through

enthusiastic about the collaboration with this

dedicated facilities and trained teams.

key client: ‘Our wish is to accompany our clients

pharmaceutical products from their origin to the destination with reliable partners,

Compliance is key to Bolloré Logistics,

in a process of continued improvement with our

Bolloré Logistics has implemented an IATA

which is why the company conforms to

mutual performance and permanent feedback

CEIV certification programme on 18 sites

the standards set out in ISO 9001 and

from both sides. We remain focused on our

and 12 warehouses across the globe. The

ISO 14001. All its sites and equipment

performance indicators and we will permanently

programme aims to ensure infrastructure

undergo regular maintenance and

refine our work process in order to strive for even

improvements, staff training levels and the

controls in accordance with the

greater operational

standards of controls.

applicable regulations. •

excellence,’ explains Koen Rombouts, MD

Prescribed for pharma The logistics company’s custom solutions for the pharmaceutical industry are


| SEPTEMBER 2017 | P C Review

Bolloré Logistics –

of Bolloré Transport & Logistics South Africa.

Tablettose®. Fast, simple, cost-effective. From Meggle.

24–26 October 2017 Messe Frankfurt, Germany Booth 110F32

GMP/GDP certified

The benchmark in direct tableting of large tablet quantities of all kinds: Tablettose®, the all-around solution for any individual needs. The benefits speak for themselves. And for Tablettose®:

– Excellent flowability – Extremely high processing speed – Low compression force – Very easy, simplified production – High time and cost savings – Wide variety of applications Tablettose® from MEGGLE: The solution for any needs.

HEAD OFFICE GERMANY: Phone +49 8071 73 476

AMCHEM PTY. LTD. Pretoria, South Africa Phone +27 (0)12 686 7082

PHARMACEUTICAL FOCUS//Supply Chain & Distribution

New temperature controlled packaging


monitor the temperature, light exposure,

solution is set to improve the handling of

humidity and movement of the shipment.

temperature-sensitive shipments in the

The 2016 Pharma Exec Country Report

pharmaceutical industry.

on South Africa states that ‘the local

The FedEx Cold Shipping solution FedEx Cold Shipping packaging is smaller, lighter and more compact than most gel-pack systems, leading to lower shipping costs for the customer

standard duration box and up to 96 hours

Biologics require next level logistics

for the extended duration box. It is designed

‘FedEx temperature controlled packaging

to be easy to use, reliable, cost-effective

uses cutting-edge technologies to provide

and environmentally friendly. The solution

health care suppliers with cost-effective

can be used by the health care and

and environmentally friendly solutions for

pharmaceutical industries, as well as any

their life-saving products,’ says Mike Higley,

shipper requiring low-temperature options

vice president of operations at FedEx

for its goods.

Express Southern Africa.

inside the package for up to 48 hours for the

to FedEx Business Insights. Although these

that every stage of the supply chain

This new temperature controlled

two to eight degrees Celsius environment

other pharmaceuticals. This is according

and transportation requirements demand

Cold Shipping in South Africa.

environment. It can maintain a constant

used at approximately twice the rate of

popular, high costs, specialised storage

FedEx Corp, has introduced FedEx

for goods that require a refrigerated

such as biologics, are expected to be

products are becoming increasingly

edEx Express, a subsidiary of

includes cold shipping packaging

Within the next few years, temperature sensitive biopharmaceutical products,

pharmaceutical market is worth R39.5 billion and the largest in sub-Saharan Africa, growing at a CAGR of 7.4 percent from 2014 to 2019, according to the latest IMS Health data’. ‘Launching this product in the South African region enables us to cater to a growing market with innovative solutions that truly transform health care logistics,’ concludes Higley. •

FedEx Express –

CubisAd_177x130:Layout 1 2017/04/19 2:51 PM Page 1

We are Sartorius in South Africa Tel 011 315 5444 |


| SEPTEMBER 2017 | P C Review

BUILDING BUSINESS THROUGH STRATEGY AND KNOWLEDGE Strategnos was started in 1999 with the belief that business success can be achieved through disciplined execution of strategy supported by industry specific knowledge. The Strategnos name has its origins in the Greek “Strategia” and “Gnosi” meaning Strategy and Knowledge, respectively. Strategnos is a management consulting company with a core focus on implementing Business and Supply Chain Solutions. We seek to build your business through integration

Strategy and Knowledge, on the premise that no one knows your Strategy or business better than you do. With a strong capability in understanding an organisation’s strategy and its core purpose, we provide the necessary solutions and support. Strategic execution however cannot be successful in the absence of knowledge. Strategnos prides itself in its ability to acquire the necessary specific knowledge to develop practical solutions and apply these to the issue at hand.

With the recent changes to GPP and GWP, Strategnos is your partner to ensure all regulatory requirements are met through best practice and pragmatic methods.




Strategnos brings with it years of industry experience and knowledge. We are able to assist clients to achieve their business’ desired outcomes and objectives.

Strategnos is an industry leader within the Cold Chain and control of temperature sensitive products environment with the key focus on the health science industry.

Using a highly structured approach the Strategnos team will interpret and implement the requirements of any specified, standard or guideline regulations.

Strategic Solutions are developed, these are then implemented and executed through structured project initiatives and underpinned by appropriate change management to ensure all stakeholders are aligned for business success.

Our objective is to deliver compliance in a cost effective manner to our clients.

We help you meet audit requirements and achieve compliance for the appropriate certification.

This is achieved through consistent innovative thinking, priding ourselves in providing practical solutions.





We follow local and international guidelines for all aspects of storing pharmaceutical products, mapping storage temperatures on a periodic basis. Our proprietary methods and software provides an audit-ready report, with a detailed analysis, interpretation and recommendations. All recording devices are calibrated to National Standards, on an annual basis.

With the increased regulatory focus on validation and qualification, we follow best practice guidelines to write and execute appropriate protocols to meet regulatory requirements. We manage the entire process from start to finish and provide an audit-ready validation/ qualification protocol and report with all supporting evidence.

Temperature monitoring of shipments is a typical requirement for pharmaceutical product distribution. We manage and analyse the data with precision making sure the data is accessible, traceable and supported by calibration certificates. Furthermore, the data is reviewed and analysed for corrective action required.

011 453 1020/4/5

WE ALSO OFFER: Calibration: Oversight services to manage and execute calibration of temperature monitoring devices. End-to-End Compliance solutions: This service offers clients an end-to-end managed solution. Training: Cold Chain & Temperature Management Fundamentals, Operational Training.

PHARMACEUTICAL FOCUS//Supply Chain & Distribution

Essential links in the cold chain

The changes to regulatory requirements for the distribution of cold chain pharmaceuticals have specific impact on manufacturers, wholesalers, transport providers and pharmacies. Sarantis Kosmas and Ari Nerwich from Strategnos provide key considerations and guidance to assist with compliance.



KEY CONSIDERATIONS WHEN EXECUTING A MAPPING: • duration • temperature recording interval applied to the probe/logging device • number of probes/ logging devices • probe position and accuracy • annual calibration of probes (not older than one year), which is a requirement.

hermolabile pharmaceutical products

monitoring of facilities and equipment, and an

require storage and transportation

increased focus on risk management. There

between two and eight degrees Celsius

is also increased focus on transport systems.

to ensure their safety, potency and

This requirement has been expanded to ensure

efficacy. Within the shifting regulatory framework,

transportation systems maintain the temperature

compliance can be achieved when all partners in

requirements of transported product and that

the value chain adopt a structured approach.

vehicles are mapped, validated and temperature

There are two important updates to the

GPP Board Notice 50 specifically mentions

Good Pharmacy Practice (GPP) (promulgated in

the route used during transportation should

February 2015) and Good Wholesaling Practice

also be assessed or validated to transport

(GWP) (promulgated in July 2016) have been

pharmaceuticals, especially during extreme

updated. The former, by the South African

seasonal months. This is to ensure systems are

Pharmacy Council (SAPC), and the latter, by the

appropriate to guarantee patient safety.

Medicines Control Council (MCC). The SAPC released amendments for

Storage areas

implementation to the rules relating to GPP, with

These include warehouses (typically between 15

particular focus on requirements for thermolabile

and 25° Celsius), cold rooms, refrigerators, which

products. The amendment refers to the replacement

are generally maintained between two and eight

of rule 2.3.5. ‘cold storage of pharmaceuticals’ with

degrees Celsius – although this may change

‘minimum standards for the procurement, storage

depending on product requirements.

and distribution of thermolabile pharmaceutical

The update to Board Notice 50 refers to

products’. Board Notice 50 expands the scope of

‘temperature mapping’, which must be performed

requirements from storage to include procurement

annually on the storage area, especially

and distribution. The obligations related to storage

after installation.

have also increased where pharmacies now have

GWP 2016 stipulates temperature mapping

the challenge of increasing cost, time and effort

should be performed every two to three years

to comply.

also accounting for seasonal extremes. We would

Updated guidelines released by the MCC for

recommend every 12 to 18 months in alternating

GWP for wholesalers expand the requirements from

seasons for warehouses and annually for cold

the March 2012 version to include essential detail

rooms etc., as well as after significant changes

lacking in this component of the pharmaceutical

to the facility or facility design, which could

supply chain. GWP 2016 now expands the scope

impact airflow.

of requirements for validation, qualification, temperature mapping of equipment, temperature


monitored. With regard to transportation systems,

current South African regulatory landscape.

| SEPTEMBER 2017 | P C Review

Temperature should be monitored and recorded at minimum twice daily; the aim being

PHARMACEUTICAL FOCUS//Supply Chain & Distribution

to verify unit temperatures are being maintained within the required range. Calibrated monitoring devices with an accuracy of ± 0.5°C must be placed in the positions of highest risk. This can be done manually or via an integrated continuous data logging

Exposure to extreme seasonal temperatures may influence insulated container performance and potentially break the cold chain

temperature monitoring device or system. to guide the process and document

2. B  e pragmatic – it is important to meet

Distribution and transportation

all test evidence.

The Board Notice 50 update makes

and non-pharmaceutical goods is

provision for a comprehensive quality

prohibited in order to mitigate the risk

system, a distribution strategy and a

of contamination. This requirement

risk assessment programme. This is so

may especially impact distributors

workshops provide a good platform

distribution and transportation can

and third party logistics suppliers.

to understand what is required, ask

be planned and tactically executed to prevent disruptions in the cold chain, ensuring

Co-loading of pharmaceutical


The requirement for a validated packaging system, recently updated and

A cold room is only effective if set included by Board points, airflow and hot cold spots have Notice 50, as well doing so, exposure been understood and addressed. This is as temperature to extreme seasonal achieved through proper mapping and monitoring of temperatures may validation of the cold room. GPP Board thermolabile be reduced which, Notice 50 now includes the requirement to temperature map cold rooms annually, parcels, could for example, may while GWP 2016 requires cold significantly influence insulated rooms be properly impact operating container performance, validated. costs. The validated or packaging, and patient safety. In

potentially break the cold

packaging system provides

the requirement in a manner which demonstrates a logical and welldocumented approach with a result that mitigates risk and meets requirements. 3. C  ontinuous education – training

questions and meet people who have dealt with similar challenges. There is a wealth of information in guidelines published by the Parenteral Drug Administration, World Health Organization, Pharmaceutical Inspection Convention and Pharmaceutical Inspection Cooperation Scheme (jointly referred to as PIC/S) and other global bodies. 4. R  esearch suppliers – understand what the output from the supplier should be and that they meet regulatory requirements. It is essential suppliers

chain. The updated guidelines in

confidence that it will maintain the

give context to the service they are

GWP 2016 state that at a minimum

required temperature range, while

providing to ensure one understands

the following elements of a

temperature monitoring verifies

the results of the output document.

pharmaceutical supply chain should

the temperature was maintained

In the case of a mapping, data must

be validated: warehouse premises,

during transportation.

be analysed and interpreted with

ambient and cold-chain storage

Transport validation now requires

a formal report provided, including

conditions including temperature

validation of vehicles, routes and


mapping; lagged containers; cold-

transport processes in order to verify

Holistically, proper cold chain

chain processes; computerised

that the acceptance criteria for

management requires an increased

systems; and transportation systems.

temperature is maintained during

level of effort to ensure thermolabile

distribution and at the hand off

pharmaceutical products are maintained

using their own transportation or third

points, which are generally the

according to their defined storage

party logistics – should ideally actively

highest elements of risk within the

conditions. It is a crucially important

control the internal temperature

supply chain.

and challenging component of the

Transporters – be it distributors

overall pharmaceutical supply chain.

of vehicles, validate each unique type of vehicle within the fleet, map

A suggested approach

We encourage information sharing and

for temperature and continuously

Adapting to the new guidelines poses

collaboration between supply chain

monitor the temperature within the

a significant challenge, requiring an

partners to ensure quality medicines are

vehicle. An air-conditioning system

investment in time and money. We

delivered to patients in a cost-effective

(i.e. cooling only) installed within the

suggest the following:

manner. There are many more concepts

vehicle may not suffice during winter

1. T ake a risk-based approach –

which are important to the good cold

seasonal months. In order to mitigate

risk analysis is a powerful tool to

chain practice, all of which could not

risk, a temperature-controlled solution

understand the risks involved and

necessarily be included in this article.

that both heats and cools the vehicle

that the appropriate corrective

For more information, send an e-mail

load body should be considered.

action is implemented in order of

to or ari@

GWP 2016 also prioritises the need

the risk priority. It is also financially •

for good governance documentation,

beneficial, as one is able to delay

such as validation master plan (VMP)

costs associated with lower risks,

and validation protocols and reports

while focusing on key issues.

Strategnos –

P C Review | SEPTEMBER 2017 |


PHARMACEUTICAL FOCUS//Supply Chain & Distribution

Risks and responsibilities in pharma logistics Protecting the integrity and security of health care products in transit demands stringent procedures and processes. Bidvest Panalpina Logistics (BPL) has a global infrastructure designed to handle such highly sensitive cargo.

as ISO 9002- 2014 compliant. Its temperature controlled freezer rooms cater for products like vaccines requiring temperatures of -22 to -25°C, as well as products requiring cold storage at two to eight degrees Celsius or ambient storage at 15 to 25°C.

Procedures to mitigate risk Naude says packaging is the most critical factor. ‘Goods travel through many temperatures. If shipments are packaged correctly there will be no problem. There are special procedures in place to offload temperature-controlled freight from the aircraft first, transferring it to temperature-controlled environments at warehouses. But there is always a risk factor of exposure in summertime temperatures, especially on the tarmac at airports. If a temperature logger shows a spike in temperature, the product must be tested at a laboratory to confirm its stability and give approval that it is safe for consumption.’ BPL’s TAPA-A accredited facility adjacent to OR Tambo International Airport, in Ekurhuleni, Gauteng


rom high security to temperature

Specialised logistics solutions

controlled movement and storage, BPL

Time-sensitive imports include products like

guarantees treatment efficacy and,

radioactive materials used for chemotherapy and

ultimately, patient safety. The logistics

spare parts for hospital machines such as X-rays,

company manages the shipments of life-saving

scanners and specialised devices. ‘These need

equipment and pharmaceutical drugs for various

to be delivered immediately. In most cases, the

clients in South Africa and sub-Saharan Africa. Its

patients have already been admitted to hospital

local and global teams of dedicated health care

and require urgent treatment. We have to devise

specialists have in-depth industry knowledge and

specialised solutions for these shipments, for

extensive expertise in supply chain consulting,

example we need to ensure someone is on call

implementation and execution.

day and night for the duration of a shipment.

Annette Naude, BPL’s business development

There is very strict security at our facilities and staff

manager, explains: ‘Servicing the pharmaceutical

dealing with pharmaceutical products are well

and health care industries is challenging and intense. Pharmaceutical products are vulnerable and sensitive in terms of time and temperature control.’ A Panalpina pharmaceutical warehouse

BPL’s facilities are TAPA-A and GDP certified as well

trained,’ she explains.


With health care volumes expanding year on year and value added activities becoming more

BPL works with a number of SMEs in complex, BPL has dedicated staff the cosmetics industry, helping them to handle only pharmaceutical to participate in international exhibitions and health care products. and contributing to their development and ‘We offer a great service but growth. Naude says the company does it all boils down to risk and this through the Department of Trade responsibility, something that and Industry and CECOSA, with which BPL is an accredited needs to be shared among all service provider. stakeholders in this demanding industry,’ concludes Naude. •

Bidvest Panalpina Logistics –


| SEPTEMBER 2017 | P C Review


on pharmaceutical logistics

CONTACT US: +27 (11) 570 6000

Panalpina Logistics


How to reduce cost in cleaning formulations


rotea Chemicals is promoting

Rhodiasolv Infinity is a non-VOC micro-

the use of Rhodiasolv Infinity as

emulsion concentrate based on biodegradable

an ingredient that delivers total

ingredients that enables formulators to

formulation cost reductions in

develop high performance cleaners with an

d-limonene-based cleaning products. This

improved safety profile. For example, using

ingredient developed by Rhodia, a Solvay

Rhodiasolv Infinity enables the formulator to

company, replaces traditional solvents

create cleaning solutions that can reduce the

and surfactants for the formulation of

amount of d-limonene by 70 percent without

environmentally friendly cleaners.

having an impact on performance. Formulators

EASILY CUSTOMISABLE FOR A VARIETY OF APPLICATIONS cleaning and degreasing floor cleaning kitchen degreasing auto care metal parts cleaning spot remover laundry carpet cleaning.

This high performance ingredient readily

also benefit from the flexibility of a waterborne

accepts glycols and other water-soluble

system, while maintaining the performance of a

solvents. It remains clear and stable at all

traditional solvent cleaner.

dilutions and works with both hard and soft

Formulation flexibility

water. Rhodiasolv Infinity is efficient at a neutral pH, can be used on multi-purpose

Rhodiasolv Infinity is an infinitely dilutable

textile and surface cleaning for ink stains and

concentrate. The formulator must simply add

grease and is highly effective on tough-to-

water to formulate with this cold blend. No

clean stains. •

special equipment or handling is required to create high-performance home care formulations with an improved health and safety profile.


Replaces traditional solvents and surfactants for the formulation of non labeled and environmentally friendly cleaners Rhodiasolv® Infinity is the easy and economical choice for formulating environmentally friendly water-based cleaners. Rhodiasolv® Infinity is an infinitely dilutable concentrate that quickly replaces traditional solvents and surfactants with a pH neutral waterborne system. Simply add water to formulate with this cold blend - no special equipment or handling is required to create highperformance formulations with improved health and safety profile.

Rhodiasolv® Infinity is easily customisable to create formulations that function in a variety of applications Cleaning and Degreasing w Floor cleaning

• Kitchen degreasing • Auto care • Metal parts cleaning • Spot remover • Laundry • Carpet cleaning • Pet stains


Coating and Resins

• Printing ink cleaning • Graffiti removal • Adhesive removal • Resin cleaning

| SEPTEMBER 2017 | P C Review

Protea Chemicals –


Targeted odour removal What is that smell and how do I get rid of it? Using Tego Sorb, Evonik addresses these questions, effectively removing kitchen malodour from refrigerators.


systems are available to

Malodour removal from refrigerators

out using a standard and commercially

consumers, ranging from

Typical kitchen odours are composed

available Dräger-detector, showed

traditional candles, liquid and

of organic acids, aldehydes, nitrogen

an approximate twice as efficient

gel-type dosing systems to electrically

and sulfur-based substances in different

hydrogen sulfide removal from air for a

operated plug-in devices. This diversity can

concentrations and varying levels of

refrigerator air freshener device based

make it difficult to find the right product to

perception thresholds.

on 1.5 percent Tego Sorb Conc. 50 and

multitude of air freshener

effectively remove malodour. A source of unpleasant smell might,

The results of an efficacy test, carried

Consequently, hydrogen sulfide can

activated carbon. This was compared

be used to demonstrate the malodour

to the next best market alternative

for example, be caused by the aroma of

absorbing efficiency of air freshener systems

(see Figure 1).

garlic, stale vegetables, raw fish and meat

based on Tego Sorb as its odour threshold

stored inside a refrigerator.

is very low and consumers already perceive

technology based on zinc ricinoleate

small concentrations of odour from food

helps to irreversibly remove malodours

storage as unpleasant.

that are not only unpleasant but also

With Tego Sorb, Evonik offers a unique technology based on zinc ricinoleate, which captures unpleasant smells

In cooperation with a Chinese company

fast, removing them from the ambient

based in Shanghai, Evonik introduced an

environment. It irreversibly binds the

odour absorber system for refrigerators.

As a result, Evonik´s Tego Sorb

pose potential risks to human health. •

Evonik –

odours and transfers them into nontoxic substances. According to the company, the product is the fastest and safest way to

Figure 1: The efficiency of Tego Sorb Conc.eliminating 50 gel versus market productscomparison in eliminating hydrogen sulphide Hydrogen sulfide efficiency in 45 mins

achieving a malodour-free environment. Conventional methods, such as masking

1.5% Tego Sorb Conc.50 gel


an odour with perfume does not address the source of the problem and could even make it worse by interacting with pollutants

3# market product


and generating unhealthy substances such as cyclodextrin. Charcoal is another conventional odour removal method, yet

4# market product


it has a limited absorption capacity and doesn’t last long. Unlike these conventional methods, the

1# market product


zinc complexes of Tego Sorb interact with odorous items to generate a stable and non-toxic complex.

2# market product


P C Review | SEPTEMBER 2017 |



Sustainable de-foamers

and how they aid water conservation Foam formation is desirable in washing and other industrial processes yet too much foam can be problematic. Wacker shares the reasons why it’s beneficial to use silicone defoamers and their contribution to saving water in Africa.


hether the process is

industrial segments, this is why de-foaming

washing, manufacturing

agents are essential as process aids and

paper, refining crude-oil or

additives in derivatives and downstream

processing textiles, foam

products,’ says Dr Klaus Pohmer, director of

forms wherever surfactant-containing

global business and process development

products are used and processed. To

performance silicones at Wacker.

a certain extent, foam is desired when

Silicone de-foamers are used in a

washing clothes provided the machine’s

diverse range of industrial applications,

drum doesn’t overflow.

including household and personal care

‘In many industrial processes, too much

products, pulp and textile manufacturing,

foam can impair production and cause

agrochemicals, the life sciences, paints,

significant product- and quality-related

surface coatings and printing inks, in

problems. Uncontrolled foam formation is

construction and adhesive materials

a particularly serious problem that requires

and industrial and municipal wastewater

appropriate countermeasures. In most

treatment. Thanks to their good spreading


| SEPTEMBER 2017 | P C Review

HOME CARE properties, silicones are exceptionally

washing machines from foaming over.

Unlike a machine wash, where the foam-

effective foam-control agents.

They are chemically stable and can

control agent prevents the detergent from

be combined with many non-silicone-

over-foaming from outset, the delayed

which is even lower than that of a

based de-foamers. Thanks to their

de-foamer technology only takes effect

surfactant molecule, enables silicones

high thermal stability, they are ideal for

when the pH value of the detergent drops.

to spread out at the interface between

critical temperature profiles. Silfoam

‘In hand washing, this is typically the

‘Their extremely low surface tension,

the liquid and air, thereby displacing

foam-control agents can also be

the foam-stabilising surfactant molecules,’ comments Dr Pohmer. ‘This results in a local weakening of the foam lamella – a chemist would call it a stabilising, surfactant-containing liquid layer – which ultimately


rinsed. Once the de-foaming agent starts

and non-structured

to work, the foam immediately collapses.

wetting agents.

The pharmaceutical industry uses foam-control agents in the manufacture of drugs or as active ingredients (e.g. in anti-flatulents).

causes the lamella to rupture and the foam to collapse.’

case when the detergent is diluted, i.e.

used with both structured

The result is amazing – instead of three to four times, the washing now only needs

Delayed de-foamers in hand washing

rinsing once or twice, thereby reducing

Many people in Africa and

save up to 20ℓ of water per wash load,’

Asia do not have washing

water consumption by 50 percent. This can he explains.

machines so they do their

The delayed defoamer technology from

washing by hand, making this

Wacker is a true advancement in countries

process a daily chore for half the world’s

where people primarily wash by hand and

Controlling foam formation

population. ‘Hand washing is not only

water is a scarce resource. It makes hand

Wacker has an extensive portfolio of

tiring but also makes heavy use of

washing easier while directly helping to

de-foamers to suit a wide variety of

resources. The foam needed to begin

conserve water.

industrial applications. The Silfoam

the washing process must be rinsed with

brand unites a broad portfolio of highly

large amounts of water. This is arduous

detergents have been on the market in

effective de-foamers. Silfoam products

and time-consuming work,’ adds

Africa since 2016 and are currently being

control foam formation and ensure

Dr Pohmer.

rolled out in selected Asian countries. •

a smooth and efficient production

Delayed de-foamer hand laundry

Wacker has now developed a foam-

process. In modern detergents, they

control agent that makes it a lot easier

control foam formation to prevent

to rinse the foam from the washing.

Wacker –



For more information please visit us at

P C Review | SEPTEMBER 2017 |



New wax emulsions

for floor care KahlWax, represented locally by Savannah Fine Chemicals, discusses the benefits of wax emulsions for floor care applications comparing them to the drawbacks of polymerbased film-forming polishes.


treatment is necessary. As a result, damage to the coatings within the factory can be disregarded. Natural wax emulsions based, for example, on carnauba or sunflower wax in a very thin layer yield a surface that is easy to buff. Due

n recent years, film-forming polishes

All elastic floors without the coating show a

to their high crystallinity, these waxes show

based on polymer emulsions, have

relatively matte, rough surface, which can

better buff-ability than the polyolefin waxes

dominated the market for floor care and

be smoothed by a floor polish.

and are very hard.

largely suppressed wax emulsions. In I&I

The polymer-based, film-forming floor

The application of a diluted wash and wax

cleaning, higher wear resistance has been

polish showed greater durability, higher

or a wax emulsion spray would not require

prioritised over simple repair.

gloss and allowed longer intervals between

specialised personnel as would a floor polish

coatings compared to pure wax emulsions.

based on polymers. Due to the small amount

• protect the surface

These polymer-based floor care coatings

of material applied, there is no need for a film

• r educe dirt pickup

are temporary and can be removed in a

removal or stripping.

• improve cleaning ability and appearance

controlled manner.

The purpose of these coatings is mainly to:

(shiny/matte) • improve or maintain safety.

The use of lightweight, slow-speed

However, the procedure remains tricky to

polishing machines with a maximum of

remove/strip such a polymer film during floor

380rpm would improve the appearance

polish renovation. Substantial quantities of

of the floors without the need to use

solvents and chemicals must be used which are expensive and problematic when it comes to handling and disposal. Modern resilient floor coverings made from PVC or linoleum are protected with polyurethane or

expensive pads.

Benefits of renewable raw materials Natural wax emulsions also allow for the use of raw materials from renewable resources. Carnauba Wax 5026 from KahlWax

polyacrylate coatings at the factory.

provides the wax emulsion CE 404, which is a

These coatings do not necessarily

40 percent nonionic wax emulsion. Sunflower

require further polymer preservation.

Seed Wax 6607L, also from KahlWax, is a

Although they have a long shelf life, in

byproduct of sunflower oil production and

stressed areas it is necessary to refresh

provides the raw material for the nonionic

the surface with a polish.

KahlEmulsion SE630. These wax emulsions can also be


Natural wax emulsions versus polymer products

produced entirely from renewable raw materials by KahlWax. KahlEmulsion BE850

In 2003, a life cycle assessment study on floor

is even formulated without ethoxylates,

care management took place in Sweden.

while KahlEmulsion BE850 is made from

In an article entitled The Maintenance

carnauba wax and beeswax, with a PEG-free

• 59.5 parts water

of Linoleum and PVC Floor Coverings in

emulsifier system.

• 0.5 parts Propylenglycol

Sweden, author Jacob Paulsen concluded

Environmentally friendly floor care

• 1.0 parts Lutensol AO 3109 (BASF)

that under life cycle and environmental

products, in combination with modified

• 10.0 parts KahlEmulsion PE550 (KahlWax)

protection aspects, up to 61 percent of

cleaning and care processes, could make

• 28.0 parts KahlEmulsion SE630 or

elastic floors would be better maintained

the use of natural wax-based products

BE850 (KahlWax)

with wax. Each floor polish shows traces

both beneficial and economical. They can

• q.s. parts preservative

of traffic marks, even polyurethane

positively influence the visual appearance of

• 100.0 parts wash and wax; application is two

factory coatings.

a floor as well as its maintenance costs. •

to five percent in water. Note: BE850 provides a softer, less slippery surface than SE630.


| SEPTEMBER 2017 | P C Review

The surface look could be improved and the further pickup of traffic marks can be reduced with wax treatment, in particular natural waxes. However, timely preventive

KahlWax – Savannah Fine Chemicals –


September 2017 | Volume 43 | Number 9

Packs that DO MORE using less

Premiering Propak Cape 2017

A practical approach to tubing


Sustainability, a catalyst for innovation

Functional packaging for

baby care

GOVERNMENT RECOGNISES THE waste sector as one that provides opportunities for value recovery, job creation and economic development. Eco-friendly, green and recyclable have become buzzwords globally, long identified not only in consumer environments, but also industrial surroundings. MMC Michael Mkhari, a member of the Mayoral Committee for Environment and Agriculture Management said in referral to the Aurecon and the City of Tshwane’s road to sustainability initiative: ‘It [the initiative] creates sustainability by educating not only employees, but entire communities on how to deal with waste. What makes it even more appealing is that it is self-funding; there is no reason why other private companies should not follow suit.’ A similar sentiment is shared by Packaging SA’s Charles Muller who believes companies that ignore implementing sustainable practices, are unlikely to survive. Don’t miss out on his advice featured on page 51. Enjoy the read!


In addition, the company

makes daily baby care easier

has developed a Dropper

but also fulfils the needs of

tube for liquids, serums and

these products with its new

creams. This is an ideal

Amplify airless pump-on-tube

solution to give children

packaging solution.

necessary vitamins easily

Described as an ideal

and quickly in a fluid

companion for parents on the

form. Compared to other

go, the easy to use pump makes

packaging materials, the

caring for a baby’s diaper area

tube always doses the same

simple, precise and comfortable.

amount. It is available in

It comprises a simple design,

10, 13.5, 16, 19 and 25mm

built-in leakage protection and

diameters for volumes of

enables simple handling. The

one to 50mℓ.

pump is available in white with

The tubes are produced

a transparent cap for quantities

in a polyfoil barrier material

of 15 to 50mℓ. It is available in

that is said to be highly

polyethylene and co-extruded

compatible to beauty and

tube materials.

health care formulations.

Assistant Editor

PUMP DESIGN GETS INNOVATIVE AS PART OF the companies’ continued collaboration, Aptar will transition to DuPont Performance Materials’ (DuPont) Crastin polybutylene terephthalate (PBT). This was specifically developed for Aptar’s manufactured cosmetics pumps. Crastin is a high-performance and chemical resistant polymer offering significant added value to the technical process of developing pumps for creams, foundations and liquid makeup. ‘We have an excellent on going collaboration with Aptar, which is based on a shared philosophy of open-mindedness and combining competence. This has driven us in the right direction to solve a complex problem around processing and the formation of their pumps,’ says Alexandra Fabbro, EMEA marketing development leader for performance materials at DuPont. Aptar found Crastin PBT beneficial in terms of its capacity to provide enhanced stability throughout the different cycles of the injection moulding process. An Aptar cosmetic pump


grow, according to SB Wire. However,

oriented polypropylene (BOPP) is

the wavering price of crude oil will

growing. One of the key factors for its

negatively impact the BOPP market as

growth is the high demand for labelling,

polypropylene is a derivate of crude oil.

packaging, printing and lamination

BOPP applied in tape used in industrial

applications. The demand is increasing

packaging will also drive its growth

in both the pharmaceutical and

prospects globally.

cosmetics packaging sectors. The growing inclination of consumers

The superior strength offered by BOPP along with high clarity are two important

towards spending increasingly on

reasons for being preferred across

personal well-being will help this market

the industrial packaging sector. BOPP films are a more flexible packaging solution. This ensures faster packaging and improved sealing properties, attracting several manufacturers in the non-food packaging industries to replace their conventional packaging materials. BOPP has abilities such as reprocessing and recyclability, which are further strengthening its demand in packaging applications. It adds sparkle to packaging and therefore is more in demand for decorative packaging. All these factors will ensure its continued demand from now to 2025.


| SEPTEMBER 2017 | Packaging Review


INNOVATION U2 mobile hand-held coder

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Print onto a variety of substrates using the Inkfinity ink family

7 hours of continuous printing with more than 200,000 characters

Full-Colour Large LCD Display 2.8-inch colour LCD with LED backlit screen

Ulta Portable

Capable of printing anywhere, at any angle, without ink leakage

Plug-n-Print Ink cartridge design with no maintenance and downtime costs

600 dpi (For U2 HD Only)

2X the resolution for printing crisp & precise HD barcodes

CALL US TO HELP YOU SAVE TIME & COST! Cape Town 021 787 9600

Johannesburg 011 611 1820

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24/7 Helpline: 0800 202 574



An assemblage of innovation under one roof Propak Cape 2017 is not to be missed. The show will be jampacked with ideas and solutions to benefit packaging, processing, plastics, printing and labelling businesses.


Among the impressive line up of equipment being demonstrated, the company is revealing its newly launched ultra-portable Anser U2 mobile hand-held printer and the 9405 Continuous Inkjet (CIJ) coder from Markem-Imaje. Available for the first time in South Africa from Pyrotec PackMark, the ultra-portable Anser U2 mobile handheld unit is a versatile, lightweight printer. Described as the world’s lightest and most compact printer,

he show takes place from 24 to

weighing in at one kilogram, the U2 mobile

26 October at the Cape Town

is easy to handle and use on the trickiest

International Convention Centre.

print surfaces. It is mobile and prints at

Pyrotec PackMark, Traceability Solutions,

any angle on a variety of substrates and

Winpak, Future Packaging and Machinery,

products. It boasts a seven hour battery

and Ink Jet Printers are among the

life and continuous printing of more than

exhibitors. Propak Cape is supported and

200 000 characters. Other benefits include

endorsed by the Institute of Packaging

its plug-n-print ink cartridge with Hewlett-

South Africa, Plastics|SA, Printing SA and

Packard’s thermal inkjet 2.5 printing

the Packaging Council of South Africa.

technology, which is maintenance free and does not incur downtime costs. It


comes with a pocket-sized remote keypad

With a national footprint in South Africa’s

with digital menu selection and a slot

major cities, Pyrotec PackMark specialises

design SD card. This enables easy software

in providing innovative, quality product

upgrades and dates back up that stores

identification solutions. A number of these

up to 999 messages. The 9405 CIJ coder offers quick

technologies will be showcased at Propak Cape in Hall 3, Stand A32.

multiline message set-up for optimal line



| SEPTEMBER 2017 | Packaging Review

More than just a standard printer

effectiveness. Its constant quality coding with long maintenance intervals provides proven robustness. This is supported by its hygienic fully stainless steel design with no retention zones that allows easy daily wash down (full IP55). Visit for more information or to register to attend the exhibition. •

Pyrotec PackMark –

2017/07/10 10:03 AM


Revert all dirt and play your part in conservation Every business needs to implement sustainability practices as part of their business agenda. For brands, it is essential when it comes to packaging. Companies that ignore the consequences of their actions on the environment are unlikely to survive.


harles Muller, executive director of Packaging SA, says

Metsä Board’s skin care packaging concept won the Luxe Pack Shanghai In Green award in the Best Ecofriendly Packaging Solution category

rather than green-washing a proper and effective commitment to sustainability and the environment

is critical. ‘Today’s consumers are becoming increasingly

industry conglomerate owned by 104 000 forest

environmentally conscious and in addition to price and fit-for-

owners. In Finland, a large share of the wood

purpose, it is an important attribute in their purchasing decision

originates from family owned forests. To

making process.’

guarantee sustainable forest management

In packaging design, it’s important to do more, with less.

and fresh fibre use in production, the

‘Lighter or thinner gauge packaging without compromising

group provides its forest owners

the basic functionality of the pack is key. Everyone in the value

with a range of services that

chain should strive to avoid any unnecessary secondary or over-

help enhance the value of their

packaging,’ he advises.

forest assets while ensuring

The replacement of virgin materials with increased amounts

future growth.

of post-consumer recyclate not only preserves natural resources and diverts waste away from landfill but also reduces costs and drives the waste economy. Muller provides these dos and don’ts to achieve sustainable packaging objectives: • Brand owners need to ensure that their packs have clear and unambiguous labelling, which encourages proper disposal and recycling. Plastic packaging should also incorporate the recognised recycling logos and resin identification codes. • Where possible, packaging designers and brand owners should avoid the use of different substrates (such as an aluminium foil laminated to plastic) within single packs. Mixed materials make the pack more difficult to recycle. Similarly, the use of fluorescent, luminescent or other bright colours in the packaging limits their use into markets and applications that can use recycled materials. • Brand owners, packaging designers and converters should try and ensure their plastic packaging does not contain any potentially harmful or difficult to recycle additives. These include cadmium or lead based pigments, oxo-biodegradable additives, mineral fillers that make recycling in conventional sink/swim wash plants problematic, potentially harmful additives such as phthalates and BPA (polycarbonate).

PIONEERING SUSTAINABLE POLICIES Metsä Board continues to prioritise sustainability. The company uses what it describes as ‘the best renewable raw material in Supplied by Sensetek

the world’ to make its paperboard products. This material is northern wood. It is fully traceable and the side streams from processing wood to fresh fibres generate significant amounts of renewable energy. Being part of Metsä Group has helped the entity efforts to

Tel 011 608 4944 | Fax 011 608 4948 | Email

produce paperboard sustainably. The group is a Finnish forest

Sensetek.indd 1

| 3:21 PM Packaging Review | SEPTEMBER 2017 2017/08/29 51


Phahama Pedal Power Project’s ‘trikeneurs’

Using foils to enhance the look and feel of products, add security features and add variable information such as expiry dates to products. Established in 1995, United Foils is a supplier of quality hot and cold foils, thermal transfer ribbons, date –coded foils and date –stamping machines for a wide range of clients, including printers, the food and beverage and pharmaceutical industry. We also assist advertising agencies, graphic design companies and publishing houses with concept development. Innovative products, knowledge and experience and trusted delivery form the essence of what we offer. Our ability to solve problems by providing innovative foiling and date-stamping solutions translates into smart solutions, cost effectiveness and convenience for you.

EARTH SAVING ‘TRIKENEURS’ To most, waste-pickers or recyclables collectors are simply anonymous city dwellers, who emerge on rubbish collection day to trawl through bins for anything that can be sold and recycled. Many of us curse their bulky trolleys, occupying most of the road without a thought to why and how they do what they do. Phahama, an organisation for the upliftment of individuals in the waste industry, has shifted the way waste pickers operate with the Phahama Pedal Power Project, launched in Johannesburg on 18 July. It aims to create entrepreneurs, clean the city and give companies an opportunity to be part of the movement in a philanthropic way. The project, founded by Clive Harding, builds tricycles and loans them free-of-charge to homeless waste collectors who sell their wares to be recycled by manufacturers. Local businesses can sponsor tricycles branded with their logos.

• •

The ‘trikeneurs’ are sourced through referrals from buy-back centres. They are supplied uniforms, monthly stipends and a tricycle with bins to collect waste. Research shows there are 26 000 mobile waste pickers in SA who are desperate to work – not only does this project create jobs but also protects the environment.

Packtech Tooling is a specialist tooling supplier to Africa’s printing, packaging and narrow web label and related industries. Our services include metal tooling, woodbase tooling, general engineering and packaging design. We invest in sophisticated machinery and in the expertise of our staff to offer you quality tools, quick turn-around times and competitive pricing. Our research and development Department helps to ensure that we stay on top of the latest local and international tooling techniques and trends. For you as a client, this relates into the ability to rely on quality tooling, relevant advice and friendly service. Packtech conducts its business in a socially responsible way, taking into account the development of people and the sustainable use of resources.

Not only does this project create jobs but also protects the environment ‘Waste pickers aren’t formalised and integrated into the waste economy and face exploitation from buy-back centres. They face serious health and safety challenges. Some walk up to 40km a day and only earn an average of R300 a week,’ says Harding. ‘Not only does this employment restore dignity; it means they can support themselves and their families. The tricycles are easier to move, have a triple braking system and can carry up to 300kg.’ The waste collectors are also held accountable by having to report back to project co-ordinators on a regular basis. The mission has been rolled out in Gauteng with 12 tricycles, and in the Western Cape with 11 tricycles – with hopes to expand throughout the country.

• •

There are currently 20 entrepreneurs benefitting from the project, of which 80 percent are women operating in Braamfischerville and Soweto. About 60 families are supported through the programme, which will continue to stimulate job creation and broaden SMEs participation in the waste sector. •

Metsä Board – Packaging SA – The Phahama Pedal Power project –


| SEPTEMBER 2017 | Packaging Review


Fun for fair ladies

Celebrating the amazing women from the cosmetics and personal care industry, the 12th Coschem Ladies’ Day was another inspiring and uplifting event.


he Ladies’ Day is a highlight on Coschem’s social calendar, providing members and industry

associates with a day of relaxation, inspiration, a little bit of retail therapy and most importantly, networking.


The event returned to the Johannesburg Country Club in Auckland Park on 17 August with its theme inspired by the classic movie, My Fair Lady. The day featured a line-up of fantastic motivational speakers and a fun general knowledge quiz. Speakers included Heidi De Oliviera, who touched on the various parts of the mind and how they control our actions in her talk on Aspects of Ourselves. Wardrobe stylist Marinda Aucamp shared a touching story about her daughter Lara, who was diagnosed mentally and physically disabled at the age of four months, and tips on how to develop a capsule wardrobe using classic clothing items inspired by Audrey Hepburn’s iconic style. The Fair Lady and the Stripper was the title of Lynda Blaezard’s presentation, which touched on the importance of positive affirmations and believing in yourself. Blaezard is from a company called the Kim Coach Neuro Coaching Academy.

CONTRIBUTING TO A WORTHY CAUSE A vital aspect of the Coschem Ladies’ Day is the charity selected to benefit from the donations made by attendees. Each year a different charity is chosen, with the Tears Foundation selected in 2017. Tears Foundation provides access to crisis intervention, advocacy, counselling and prevention education services for those impacted by domestic violence, sexual assault and child sexual abuse. Coschem distributed the Tears Foundation’s wish list among the Ladies’ Day guests, who were exceptionally generous in contributing comfort packs and kiddi packs to this worthy cause. •

Coschem –

P C Review | SEPTEMBER 2017 |


Tea time

Test your general knowledge: 1. Which is the financial centre and main city of Switzerland? 2. Vodka, Galliano and orange juice are used to make which classic cocktail? 3. Which family did the character Lurch work for? 4. In Roman mythology, Neptune is the equivalent to which Greek god? 5. Which singer joined Mel Gibson in the movie Mad Max: Beyond The Thunderdome? 6. Who invented the ballpoint pen? 7. Which scientist discovered the radioactive element, radium? 8. Where would you find the sea of tranquility?

Sudoku 6

Answers printed in the next issue.


7 2









Anita Raath Sales executive

+27 (0)82 976 6541



Carla Melless Sales executive

4 8

+27 (0)83 260 6060



9 1






Amchem.................................. 35.......... Bidvest Panalpina Logistics...... 41.......... Biotech Solutions..................... 36.......... Botanica Natural Products....... 30.......... Brunational.............................. 18.......... Chem Systems......................... 29.......... Chemical Initiatives................. 44.......... Cirebelle.................................. 28.......... Clariant..................................... 5.......... Croda...................................... 33.......... Customised Cosmetics.............. 9.......... Dabur...................................... 23.......... Evonik...................................... 24.......... H&R Group.............................. 25.......... IMCD.....................................OFC.......... Microbel Laboratories.............. 13.......... Moco Cosmetic Packaging.....OBC..........


| SEPTEMBER 2017 | P C Review

Candida Giambo-Kruger Sales executive

+27 (0)71 438 1918

Nautica Organic Trading.......... 31.......... NSP Unsgaard.......................... 15.......... Pharmacen............................. IFC.......... Proficos................................... 13.......... Protea Chemicals.................... 42.......... Pyrotec.................................... 49.......... Remancos............................... 14.......... Savannah Fine Chemicals........ 27.......... Sensetek.................................. 51.......... Siyakha Imperial Printiing........ 43.......... Specialised Exhibitions............ 50.......... Strategnos............................... 37.......... United Foils.............................. 52.......... Wacker Chemicals................... 45.......... Wrapsa.....................................11.......... Zinplex.................................... 17..........




Supplier of cosmetic and personal care ingredients.

Visitors to the Society of

Ingredients include; Bioferments, Botanical Extracts, Delivery

Cosmetic Chemists’ website will

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of promoting professionalism and higher technical skills in the cosmetics and toiletries industries.

COSMETIC INGREDIENTS Ingredients include: African oils I Hyaluronic acid I Treated pigments I Treated inorganic sunscreens I Encapsulated organic sunscreens I Plant

Glass distributors & importers of specialist glass bottles and

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Look Good Feel Better, a global cosmetic industry programme

Your No. 1 industry leader

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Moco Packaging is well established as one of the largest stockists of specialised cosmetic and pharmaceutical packaging in South Africa. The extensive range of high-quality plastic and glass containers and accessories is obtained from local and international sources. Our own moulds enable us to satisfy almost all packaging requirements at excellent prices. Printing and frosting facilities are available. Keeping up to date with modern technology ensures that we procure a variety of new packaging items and components.

Tel: (011) 624-3493/4 | Fax: (011) 618-3622 Email: | 18 Auret Street Jeppestown 2094 | P.O. Box 15773 Doornfontein 2028

Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review September 2017  

This magazine explores the competitive and highly dynamic contract manufacturing segment of the cosmetics industry. We also look at how to f...

Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review September 2017  

This magazine explores the competitive and highly dynamic contract manufacturing segment of the cosmetics industry. We also look at how to f...