Page 1


May 2018 | Volume 45 | Number 5

Turnkey project management, innovative gas piping and

telemetry solutions to protect your assets

Reduce and prevent signs of skin ageing


Bigger and better in Amsterdam Versatility in the aerosols industry

Launched a new product in 2017/18?


Contact Natalie Da Silva: | +27 (0)11 877 6281


May 2018 | Volume 45 | Number 5


w w za


Save water and stay hygienic with Initial

IMCD appointed new distributor for DFE Pharma


Your partner in compliance, quality and safety

What’s new in South Africa


Highlights from in-cosmetics Global 2018

Bacteria and skin care


AMA stalwart passes away

Protect your assets with Gas Piping Services

Puregas completes new storage vessel installation

Compliance remains a priority at Chemlink SA

United in the middle



Vital microbiome research from Lipotec

ChemSystems markets novel eye area peptide

Patented molecule protects skin from stress

Life force of rice drives unique innovation

Zuplex launches new botanical extracts

Effective mass market actives from Codif

How to develop unique microbiome claims with CLR

31  PHARMA FOCUS: TECHNOLOGY AI platform offers game changer in personalised medicine Beyond the lab in pharma innovation and access


30 INDUSTRY INSIGHT Overcome online pricing issues with BMi and BlackCurve

Quench thirsty roots with proven ingredients

Croda gains next level consumer insight

41 W IE V E PackagingR Volum May 2018 |

e 44 | Number





44 Carton & Board Sappi’s ultimate board for premium packs Six trends shaping the market

47 Cold Chain

d ar pe f o rb sha o pe ds tureging a P ren e fu cka t th a


Packs proven to protect sensitive cargo


49 ASSOCIATION NEWS The latest news from Coschem

ns ain solutio Cold ch egrity ain product int maint

ppi completes

Sa n CPG acquisitio

P C Review | MAY 2018 |



From the editor


An exploration of innovation


EDITORIAL Editor: Abby Vorster +27 (0)11 877 6038

msterdam has always been on

Merck’s interactive on-stand activities and

Assistant Editor: Aarifah Nosarka +27 (0)11 877 6209

my bucket list, mainly because

new launches from Chemyunion and Silab

Layout & Design: Kirsty Thomas

it’s tulip, windmill, cheese and

among others.

Contributors: Núria Almiñana, Júlia Comas, Raquel Delgado, Heidi Kruger, Olga Laporta, Sabrina Mizael, Anna Momméja, Marie Ollagnier, Harald van der Hoeven

Stroopwafle heaven. In April, I

While April was an upbeat month for the

got to tick this destination off my bucket

cosmetics industry, it marked a sad time


list when I travelled to Amsterdam for

for the aerosols industry with the passing

in-cosmetics Global with Henkel South

of Mike Naude. Mike played a major role in

Sales Executive: Carla Melless +27 (0)83 260 6060

Africa’s R&D manager, Lutendo Magina.

shaping the South African aerosols industry

Henkel SA won the 2017 P C Review/

from a compliance and safety perspective;

Symrise New Product Competition which

his contributions are celebrated on page 13

includes flights, accommodation and entry

in our aerosols feature. We also look at the

Sales Executive: Candida Giambo-Kruger +27 (0)71 438 1918

into the show.

engineering and gas industry expertise of


Gas Piping Services and Liquitel. You can

Germany/Austria/Switzerland: Eisenacher Medien Erhardt Eisenacher +49 228 249 9860

Apart from the beautiful, sunny weather we had for the entire week and meeting

also read about how Puregas has reached

the friendliest Europeans ever, Amsterdam

the end of the installation journey of its new

hosted the biggest in-cosmetics I have ever

mounded 500m storage vessel.

attended. For three days, I walked up and


Right off the back of in-cosmetics Global,

down seven busy halls, learning about new

our anti-ageing feature is jam packed with

innovations, happy to see familiar faces

innovations set to tighten, brighten and

from the South African cosmetics industry

renew skin while reinforcing natural beauty.

and interviewing international industry

Turn to page 18 now to read about novel

experts. A lot of the knowledge I gained at

microbiome research and new claims in

the show is featured in this edition, in the in-

this interesting category, peptides extracted

cosmetics review on page 8. You can read

from quinoa and rice, an anti-stress skin care

about Evonik’s and Mibelle’s Gold awards,

ingredient, well-priced and substantiated mass market actives, and new South African botanical extracts. Technology takes centre stage in the pharma focus on page 31. We look at how Artificial Intelligence provides pharma manufacturers with vital information for personalised medicine and how technology advances have paved the way for improved access to lifesaving medicines. In our regular PACKAGING REVIEW


Prof Dr Aubrey Parsons


Circulation Manager: Felicity Garbers +27 (0)21 701 1566 PUBLISHING TEAM General Manager: Dev Naidoo Publishing Manager: Natalie Da Silva +27 (0)11 877 6281 Production Controller: Rae Morrison Art Director: David Kyslinger JOHANNESBURG OFFICE New Media Publishing, Ground floor, Media Park, 69 Kingsway Avenue, Auckland Park, 2092 Tel: +27 (0)11 877 6111, Fax: +27 (0)11 877 6198 POSTAL ADDRESS PO Box 784698, Sandton, Johannesburg, 2146 Published on behalf of Media24 by New Media Publishing (PTY) Ltd. MANAGING DIRECTOR Aileen Lamb

Bridget McCarney

chain packaging industry segments


with interesting reads on trends, design

John Psillos

innovations and game changing high


performance packaging developments.

Irna van Zyl HEAD OFFICE New Media House, 19 Bree Street, Cape Town 8001 Tel: +27 (0)21 417 1111, Fax: +27 (0)21 417 1112 Email: PO Box 440, Green Point, Cape Town 8051

Enjoy the read!

Consultant, Cosmetic Solutions

John Knowlton

Vivian Frittelli

Prof N T (Raj) Naidoo

| MAY 2018 | P C Review



Professor Emeritus, Faculty of Health Sciences, Nelson Mandela University

CTFA - The Cosmetic, Toiletry & Frangrance Association of South Africa GBM - Generic and Biosimilar Medicines of Southern Africa

Taiwan: Ringier Trade Media Sydney Lai +886 4 2329 7318

both the carton and board and cold

CEO of the Generic and Biosimilar Medicines of Southern Africa

P C Review is the official journal of:

Italy: Ngcombroker Giacomo Rotunno +39 370 101 4694

section (page 41), Aarifah Nosarka covers

Dr Trevor Baillie

Past-President, Society of Cosmetic Chemists SA

Sales Executive: Anita Raath +27 (0)82 976 6541

COSCHEM - The Society of Cosmetic Chemists of South Africa HPA - The Health Products Association of Southern Africa AMA - The Aerosol Manufacturers’ Association of South Africa

Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review is published by New Media Publishing 11 times a year and circulates to manufacturers, packers and distributors of pharmaceuticals, health products, cosmetics, detergents, soaps, toiletries and allied products. The journal is an up-to-date source of reference for company directors, factory and production managers, marketing executives, engineers, import agents, buyers and research personnel. While precautions have been taken to ensure the accuracy of its contents and information given to readers, neither the editor, publisher, or its agents can accept responsibility for damages or injury which may arise therefrom. All rights reserved. © Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, photocopying, electronic, mechanical or otherwise without the prior written permission of the copyright owners. Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review is printed and bound by CTP Printers - Cape Town. Copyright: all rights reserved. ISSN 0257-8719



DFE Pharma

changes its SA distributor

HYGIENE IS EVERYONE’S problem, and not

twice a day, because the Eco Cap contains odour

engaging it is certain to lead to significant health

and bacteria neutralising bio-enzymes. Not only is


issues. But how do we tackle hygiene when water

odour eliminated, but you could save up to 3 000

Pharma has appointed IMCD South

is scarce? Under level 6b restrictions, businesses

percent on your water usage (based on a building

Africa as its new distributor in the

in Cape Town need to show a saving of 45 percent

with 20 male users).

country. Previously, it had worked

on their water consumption compared to the same period last year.

For the toilet bowl, you can prolong intervals between flushing by spraying No Flush after

closely with Brenntag South Africa. The decision to appoint IMCD SA

urination. This spray contains bio-enzymes that

forms part of DFE Pharma’s drive to

services for workplace and washroom areas in

break down uric acid and neutralise odour. The

centralise its distributor management

manufacturing facilities, shops and offices etc. The

pleasant lemongrass scent and blue dye fragrance

activities. This will enable the

company has committed to helping individuals and

and colour the water between flushes. Disposing

company to continue managing the

businesses see out the current water crisis without

of urine-soaked toilet paper in a compact disposer

service levels of its distributors to the

compromising on essential hygiene.

bin also helps save water. Initial will then dispose of

users of its excipients.

Initial is a leading specialist in hygiene

To save water and stay hygienic, you can use hand sanitisers instead of washing hands using

this paper hygienically and in line with government

The new distribution agreement has been effective since 1 January.

waste regulations.

tap water, which can use up to six litres of water in

For waterless surface cleaning, Intial offers an

However, Brenntag South Africa

one minute; that’s a litre every 10 seconds. Switch

Eco Clear Spray is a bio-enzyme cleaner that is safe

remains the preferred source for

to a waterless hand sanitiser spray instead of soap

for all surfaces, neutralises odour and kills bacteria.

Pharmacel MCC.

to ensure that you continue to prevent crosscontamination without the use of water.

The foam hand sanitiser from Initial

Kreason Gopalan, IMCD South Africa’s industry manager for

Initial offers a range of options, including

pharmaceuticals, and his team are

its Signature unit or Betasan sanitiser

available to industry to discuss the

stand, or individual 500ml foam hand

changes in more detail. DFE Pharma is a global leader

sanitiser bottles.

in excipient solutions for oral solid

Deep cleaning using a high pressure hose can use 50 to 75 litres of water

dose and dry powder inhalation. The

in just five minutes. Initial’s Ablution

company is recognised for its quality,

Hygiene Treatment requires minimal

expertise and support. Excipient excellence is what

water due to the use of bio-enzyme preparations, and antibacterial fogging

guides DFE Pharma on its way

uses virtually no water to disinfect large

to developing the best possible

bathroom spaces. Antibacterial Fogging

excipient solutions for all its

will be offered to all Initial’s Ablution

customers worldwide.

hygiene customers free of charge during the Cape water crisis. Installing Eco Caps in your urinals means they only need to be flushed

Add up to 15% to the bottom line of your business with BlackCurve, in partnership with BMi Research Making pricing decisions in real time


insights to grow @BMi_Research

y 30 da FREE trial

Global Practice • Local Knowledge t: +27 11 615 7000 f: +27 11 615 4999 e:

Smarter Pricing • Greater Prots @blackcurveHQ

P C Review | MAY 2018 |


STREET Silky hair

with shea spray Long & Lasting has launched an Oil Sheen Spray Shea Butter Infusion. This lightweight formulation gives an instant silky smoothness and shine to weaves, wigs, braids, natural and relaxed hair. It’s ideal to combat excessive dryness without masking the natural texture of hair and provides a protective layer that allows natural movement and bounce. Connect with Long & Lasting on Facebook,

Reveal your natural beauty EcoProducts has created BaoCare, a 100 percent pure and natural skin healing range using baobab oil as the hero ingredient. Radiance is the first offering in the BaoCare range for luminous skin with an ageless glow. Using a luxurious blend of oils, Radiance is specifically formulated for the mature 40+ skin. The product is available in 10 and 50mℓ packs at all good independent health shops, the Wellness Warehouse outlets and online at www. and The other products in the BaoCare range are a 100 percent pure baobab oil, tissue oil, eczema skin care and acne skin care., for more info about the brand’s hair care products.

Fresh, feminine and spicy Folli Follie’s new perfumes range from spicy to sweet, fruity and fresh, offering something for everyone. Folli Follie Fresh is deliciously sweet-smelling and undoubtedly irresistible. Folli Follie Floral Feminine is a floral, timeless lovable fragrance that characterises the carefree moments of life. Folli Follie Spice is an overtly dynamic, mysterious and spicy scent that will lead you to the art of seduction. These fragrances are available in 30 and 50mℓ EDP bottles.

Happy and healthy hair

to the max

A sun cream for summer and winter, Team Dr Joseph’s new SPF30 is highly effective.

Get happy and healthy hair with Sorbet Drybar’s

It is formulated with innovative UVA

new collection of shampoos and conditioners,

and UVB filters and ingredients such as

intensive care treatments, styling aids and serums.

buddleja and sea buckthorn, both known

These hair care essentials are suitable for all hair

for their highly reparative and protective

types, from coloured to curly hair. The products

properties. This sunscreen is optimised

are paraben-free, pH-balanced,

for maximum sun protection and skin

enriched with essential oils and

hydration – especially in the cooler, drier

antioxidants, and formulated

winter months when a combination of

using the latest in hair care

cold weather and heaters radically dry

technology. The new hair care

out the skin. Team Dr Joseph skin care

collection is sold nationwide at

products are available in South Africa

Sorbet Salons, Sorbet Drybar’s


and Clicks stores.


Sun protection

| MAY 2018 | P C Review



DIARY 2018

ood f





SAPICS Conference 10 to 13 June Century City, Cape Town


in-cosmetics Korea

Please complete in block letters, select your subscription option, and return this form, along with your payment to:

13 to 15 June Coex Convention & Exhibition Centre, Seoul

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Coschem Fragrance Seminar 20 June Coschem offices, Randpark Ridge, JHB



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Cosmetic Review


Food Review + Pharmaceutical

Cosmetic Review


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20 to 22 June SNIEC, China

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11 to 13 July SNIEC, China

KZN Industrial Technology Exhibition 24 to 26 July Durban Exhibition Centre, KZN

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TAX INVOICE REQUIRED Note: The above prices are applicable to South Africa only. International rates available on request.

P C Review | MAY 2018 |


Bigger and better in Amsterdam

In-cosmetics Global has retained its position as the premium industry event. This year, 773 suppliers displayed their latest ingredients – 11 percent exhibiting for the first time – and 100-plus hours of educational sessions took place in Amsterdam from 17 to 19 April. The jam-packed Sustainability Corner, which featured daily talks by industry leaders in different aspects of sustainability


from major cosmetics manufacturers such as Unilever, Amka, Estée Lauder, Coty, Union Swiss, L’Oréal, Procter & Gamble and Johnson & Johnson attended the show to identify new ingredients and learn about the trends set to shape their future NPD. The daily re-admittance figures underlined the industry’s commitment to the show. Over the three days, in-cosmetics Global recorded a significant

he 2018 edition of the event attracted 9 392 unique visitors, seven percent more than last year’s show in London, UK, with international attendance increasing by 19 percent to

account for 88 percent of all visitors. Representatives

growth in total attendance with 18 207 visitors, up 12 percent from 16 319 in London. in-cosmetics’ first smart event, which enabled visitors to collate exhibitor literature digitally with a single tap of their smart badge, delivered innovation in abundance, with an exhibition that once again housed the world’s leading personal care industry suppliers.

Skin and hair health Chemyunion, represented in South Africa by Chemgrit SA, launched a variety of functional ingredients and actives for male grooming, hair care, product preservation and emulsion stability. New tests using Raman technology to evaluate hair structure allowed the company to create Seriliss RA, which straightens and simultaneously protects hair with superior and proven performance. This effect is possible due to a highly effective protein complex that promotes the preservation of cystine and permeation of sericin – a double mechanism of action responsible for increasing hair strength.

Chemgrit Cosmetics realize that people are the key to our success, our customers, suppliers and personnel are our future. We believe in operating our business with integrity, efficiency and service excellence. CHEMGRIT COSMETICS (PTY) LTD 7 HAROLD FLIGHT ROAD, JET PARK, BOKSBURG, 1459. 011 397 4455 / 082 853 7589


| MAY 2018 | P C Review

care for their skin and hair using fun textures. A Good Start includes five formulations to improve scalp and hair health, target moisturisation and nourish and exfoliate the hair and scalp. The Wash Forward concept breaks rules and is inspired by indie brands. It includes four cleansing formulations with unique textures and benefits while focusing on the consumer’s wellbeing and sustainability. Fixate Keratin is a new functional

The united Lubrizol and Lipotec exhibition stand

Designed to meet the needs of male skin, the company launched 4MAN, which is composed of hop, liquorice, red algae extract, Gallic rose, panthenol and menthol. It also launched Hebeatol

ingredient from Lubrizol. This thermal


activated hair treatment uses nonformaldehyde and non-glyoxylic

Floor space at in-cosmetics Global acid chemistry and is validated by 2018 increased by four percent salon tests on different hair types. to 16 634m2. This is the biggest in Fensebiome Peptide from the show’s history, providing even Lipotec is a new active developed more opportunities for cosmetics to strengthen skin, particularly manufacturers to source new ingredients. during exposure to urban

CG, a functional ingredient that

environments. This heptapeptide helps

acts as a broad-spectrum antimicrobial

reinforce the skin’s microbial and physical

agent and is compatible with several cosmetics

barrier function, preventing dehydration, which is

formulations, including micellar waters, wet wipes

a key concern of sensitive skin.

and mascaras.

Lipotec has also launched Lumicease blue

The company also introduced Powderfeel

ingredient. Obtained using biotechnology, this

WR to facilitate the formulation of multiple

ingredient activates opsins on the skin and

textures from fluid to butter in a cold process.

promotes adaptive responses to prepare the skin

It is an O/W emulsifier based on Pickering

for future exposure to light.

SymMollient PDCC is a silky emollient for modern formulation concepts

emulsion technology, which offers

In South Africa, Lipotec’s local agent is

high stabilisation efficiency and

Savannah Fine Chemicals while Lubrizol is

reduced environmental impact and

represented by Carst & Walker.

processing costs.

Wise Beauty 3.0 A united focus

Symrise presented new products as well as

For the first time since the two

products that have proven themselves over

companies merged, Lubrizol and

time in the industry. These are combined in

Lipotec exhibited on one stand at in-

the company’s new concept Wise Beauty

cosmetics. They promoted three new

3.0, developed for a new generation of

concepts for beauty and personal

wise consumers.

care applications and a series of new

SymControl Care is extracted from green algae

functional and active ingredients.

using blue biotechnology. It regulates skin’s

The Expected the Unexpected concept

sebum production, strengthens the barrier and is

engages millennials with seven formulations to

appropriate for oily and sensitive skins.

BOTANY TO BODY Stem Cells Hydroglycerine Extracts Propylene Glycol Extracts Hydrosols Organic Essential Oils Essential Oils Specialized Actives Indigenous Extracts Indigenous Oils


| MAY 2018 | P C Review

Quick sample delivery

Technical assistance

Small MOQ’s (1kg to 5kg)


072 731 3909

Competitive prices

SymMollient PDCC is a silky emollient for modern

Innovations on display

formulation concepts and SymOleo Vita7, an elixir

Based on its experience

that protects against hair damage.

in biotechnology, Evonik

The company also celebrated the 25th

succeeded in bringing

anniversary of Hydrolite 5 at the show. Symrise

Rheance One to market

revolutionised personal care with the launch of

following several years

Hydrolite 5 in 1992. With its less is more approach,

of extensive research.

this unique moisturiser, efficacy booster and

Manufactured exclusively

solubiliser enhances modern formulations.

from sugar using a natural

Dr Gerhard Schmaus, vice president global

fermentation process, the

innovation in Symrise’s cosmetic ingredients

product will ensure gentle yet

division, explains: ‘We are proud to have brought

effective cleansing. Evonik

such a versatile and effective ingredient to the

won Gold for Rheance One in

market so early. This success drives us to keep

the in-cosmetics Innovation

working on modern variations and applications of

Zone Best Ingredient Awards in the category Best

Hydrolite 5 for our customers and consumers.’

Functional Ingredient.

Effect pigments and actives

product. The cell-free Lactobacillus extract

Merck presented its innovative effect pigments

Skinolance promotes the natural balance of the skin’s

and active ingredients. At its massive and iconic

flora to strengthen skin’s barrier function and protect

exhibition stand, experimental stations allowed

against roughness and dryness.

visitors to explore its products and enjoy a

The company also launched a microbiotic

Hairflux is its new olive-based ceramide that

personalised skin care experience. The first station

enables the effective care of damaged hair and

was the Active Solutions where visitors answered

irritated scalp with a single active ingredient. This

a short questionnaire to guide them in choosing

product is also based on natural ingredients and

from a range of innovative and natural ingredients

involves a gentle manufacturing process.

that are specifically selected to meet individual skin demands.

A bird’s eye view of the Merck stand and sheer volume of people who attended the show

Tego Pep UP is a new tetrapeptide that increases the collagen production of the skin and the fibre

Evonik’s personal care team celebrates winning Gold for Rheance One

The Functional Fillers experimental station focused touching, feeling and creating, allowing visitors to explore a broad selection of multifunctional fillers from the RonaFlair range. It also featured Merck´s new luminous matte pigment Ronastar Black Allure. The company also presented Eusolex S, the newest member of its light protection portfolio. Eusolex S is a key organic UV filter with high efficiency UVA and UVB absorption as well as excellent photo stability. Turning Heads is Merck’s new hair care trends kit launched at the show. It features products based on the latest trends in hair care, such as a black beard cream and temporary hair colour products.

Evonik_Skinolance_65hX177w.indd 1

2018/04/24 12:06:39 PM

P C Review | MAY 2018 |


enhanced. Ecobiotys is a patented active ingredient (INCI: Yeast Extract), which Megan Jones from Meganede says is ideal for the South African market. Silab won Bronze in the in-cosmetics Innovation Zone Best Ingredient Awards in the category Best Active Ingredient.

Novel anti-ageing concept MossCellTec No. 1 from Mibelle Biochemistry, a Carst & Walker principal, presents a novel anti-ageing concept based on cell nucleus health. It is also the first active ingredient from biotechnologically produced moss. Mosses were the first plants to conquer the land about 470 million years ago. They used their extraordinary adaptation abilities to survive from the prehistoric age until today. The interactive formulation gave attendees a handson opportunity to formulate with the latest ingredients on the market

production of the extracellular matrix to achieve

MossCellTec is an innovative technology that makes

a lifting effect. Tego Enlight was developed as a

it possible for consumers to benefit from those

means of natural skin brightening. Its two plant-

extremely resilient properties. The active is based on

based ingredients are complementary.

the protonema culture of Physcomitrella patens. It

Evonik’s Silica Business Line also took part in

maintains cell nucleus health, which is a completely

the show display additives that can be used for

novel anti-ageing concept. The cell nucleus

stabilising Pickering emulsions thanks to their special

contains the DNA and is involved in regulating

surface modification. Aerosil R 816 and Aerosil R 974

essential cellular processes. Extensive studies show

can be used to transform a wide range of different

that MossCellTec No. 1 activates the lamin A gene

emollients into PEG-free and silicone-free emulsions.

responsible for the nuclear envelope structure and the nuclear transport gene RanBP17. Both genes

Plant microbiota for skin

are down-regulated in aged keratinocytes. It also

Silab, represented in South Africa by Meganede,

supports the skin’s adaptation to climatic stresses

launched Ecobiotys at the show. Bio-inspired

both in vitro and in vivo.

by the regulating capacity of Nectarobiota, the

MossCellTec No. 1 strengthens skin against urban

floral nectar microbiota, Ecobiotys is the result of

aggressors and climatic changes and improves

Silab’s unprecedented approach to R&D in the

its hydration, barrier and homogeneity in just two

cosmetics industry, using the microbiota of plants

weeks. Due its highly innovative nature, the active

to develop an active ingredient that can act on the

has received two gold innovation prizes. First was the

skin microbiota.

BSB Innovation Prize for Cosmetics in the category

Obtained from the yeast Metschnikowia reukaufii,

Most Innovative Raw Material and most recently,

isolated from the nectar of the porcelain flower

Mibelle won Gold in the in-cosmetics Innovation

Hoya carnosa, Ecobiotys specifically rebalances the

Zone Best Ingredient Awards in the category Best

microbiota of mature skin by reinforcing the immune

Active Ingredient.

and mechanical barriers of the skin. It also acts on

In-cosmetics 2019 will take place in Paris, France

the distribution of bacterial communities. The quality

from 2 to 4 April. Visit

of the skin barrier is improved and the complexion

for more information. •

MossCellTec™ No. 1 Enhances cell nucleus function for resilient skin Carst & Walker is the proud supplier for Mibelle in South Africa

For more information contact Tiffany de Astui at 011-489-3639 or 082-892-9731


| MAY 2018 | P C Review


Farewell to an industry leader Michael Peter Naude 11 January 1944 – 24 March 2018

Mike Naude, as he was fondly known to members of The Aerosol Manufacturers’ Association (AMA), passed away peacefully on 24 March. His passion for the South African aerosols industry and perseverance for safety and compliance helped shape the industry to where it is today.

Buyer’sguide 30 years, having been inaugurated as

Two of the most

executive director, Nick Tselentis wrote

the first executive director in 1988, serving

notable were

of Mike’s unwavering dedication to the

in this position for 23 years,’ he said. Mike

the introduction of the Code of

association and industry at large.

then handed over the role to Nick, but still

Practice, allowing the drive for compliance

continued supporting the association in an

to be more attainable for members,

admin role until he died.

and the extremely successful training



n a letter to all AMA members, its

‘As many members know Mike has

been the foundation of the AMA for over

Mike was a humble, passionate and fun spirited man who will be greatly missed by the aerosols industry

programmes, which to date have seen

An improved industry

more than 1 200 delegates attending.

In 1988, CFCs were a major media and

Mike was a humble, passionate and fun

industry concern and it was imperative

spirited man who will be greatly missed by

that the AMA formalise its structure and

the aerosols industry. ‘I’m sure every single

response. This was when Mike stepped up

member has fond and personal memories

and took on the role of executive director.

of their time spent with him,’ Nick added.

During his tenure he was responsible for

‘Thank you, Mike for all your years of loyalty

numerous improvements within the industry.

and dedication to the AMA.’ •



Buyer’sguide 2018/2019

The directory for manufacturers of food, beverages, pharmaceuticals, cosmetics, toiletries, packaging and the printing industry

Available online: Buyers Guide 2018.indd 1

2018/05/07 3:09 PM

P C Review | MAY 2018 |



Give it gas

Advanced applications for the aerosols industry

The engineering and gas industry experience of GPS puts this consultancy at the forefront of providing turnkey and customisable gas detection and telemetry solutions to the aerosols industry. Abby Vorster finds out more about this innovative company from GPS’ director, AJ De Wet.


hemicals like LPGas – which is

Due to our experience and qualifications,

used by aerosol manufacturers

we progressed into LPGas bulk storage

– plant design and the level of

design. We have consulted on the design,

automation within plants have

supply and installation on various projects.

The GPS team: Sean, Remone, Brandon, Nolene, Andre Roux, Miguel and AJ De Wet with Alcina, Dalene and Semone in the front

changed dramatically over the years. These

Our projects have grown to constructing

developments have had a direct effect on

the full gas infrastructure for manufacturers

ideal for businesses of any size and provide

the supply chain requiring companies to

and housing developments up to the

complete remote monitoring and control

improve their processes and facilities with

point of use in the customer’s plant. At the

of a site or plant from any location. ‘For

quality, compliance and safety in mind.

same time, we have been a supplier of

example, an operator or manager can

gas detection systems to many industries,

reduce the speed on a conveyor remotely

including aerosol manufacturers.’

using our turnkey or customisable solutions,’

Gas Piping Services (GPS) and its affiliate business, Liquitel are experts in engineering,

he explains.

with a combined 55 years’ experience in the gas and related industries. Both companies

Technology engineering

are equipped to help aerosol manufacturers

The company has grown with the needs

and their suppliers move with the times to

of the industries it serves and in 2017, GPS

enable better quality finished products,

launched an affiliate business, Liquitel.

enhanced customer service and a safer

‘Our main focus is plant monitoring and

and more compliant aerosols industry.

engineering telemetry using a wide

De Wet comments: ‘The company started

range of instruments and GSM network

with LPGas bulk installations and gas

interface,’ says Andre Roux, MD of Liquitel.

installer training for various gas companies.

‘Telemetry covers more than 60 percent of our physical operations. This is driven by IoT and applicable to any industry or plant that requires

With Liquitel’s new, compact and costeffective systems, even the smallest of operators can benefit from remote plant monitoring

remote monitoring of storage levels, gas detection, O2 levels, temperature or any other

Roux says the demand for cloud-based monitoring in manufacturing is on the rise. It offers unmatched plant control, flexibility to the small to medium sized business owner,


an additional set of eyes for the bigger


multinational business, ultimately minimising

Liquitel’s solutions are

downtime and optimising runtime. Technology now plays a major role in the gas industry. ‘Although there has always been some technology linked to the industry, historically it was mainly found at

The GPS team provides turnkey project management solutions for LPGas bulk storage sites among other things


| MAY 2018 | P C Review

major refineries and depots where cost was never an issue,’ De Wet comments. While telemetry to monitor liquid levels, flow rates and other critical operations is not


INDUSTRY FIRSTS AND MAJOR MILESTONES 2009 GPS introduces PEX-AL-PEX piping into the gas industry.

2010 The company designs, supplies and installs a 270m3 LPGas and

2012 The PLC display of the tanker metering system from GPS

The company launches a technology division,

50 000ℓ diesel storage facility for Nampak Bevcan in Angola.

GPS Technology. It also installs the speciality gas infrastructure at SABS’ new laboratory in Groenkloof, Pretoria.

2013 2014 GPS designs the 16 000 000ℓ LPGas

The company introduces the first Coriolis truck meter into the LPGas industry.

import terminal for Avedia Energy at Saldanha Bay Harbour.

2015 GPS is awarded a contract for gas

2015 Shield Chemicals commissions GPS to design and

infrastructure from Balwin Properties,

install its aerosol gassing room with a detection

resulting in seven projects throughout

and ventilation system, flammable liquid store and

South Africa.

its gas storage facility at its premises in Apex, Benoni.

2017 new, Roux says the cost has always been exorbitant and beyond budget for most small to medium companies. With Liquitel’s new, compact and cost-effective systems,

The company is appointed as a consultant to manage gas infrastructure at both the Sasol HQ and Discovery HQ buildings in Sandton, Johannesburg. GPS Technology divests from GPS and becomes a separate entity called Liquitel.

even the smallest of operators can benefit from remote plant monitoring. ‘Our systems have full programmable and two way functionality,’ he adds. ‘A major advantage is you don’t have to install costly monitoring

Bank of LPGas vapourisers supplying gas to leading ceramics manufacturer, Multotec

software as it is web-based. All you need

and it prevents critical operational failures

to access your information is a username

like run-dries. We can also provide legal

and password.’

compliance audits based on SANS standards and local bylaws, which are

One stop shop

not only applicable to aerosol production

GPS and Liquitel offer a one stop shop.

plants but also to major producers and

Together, the companies supply and install

suppliers of hazardous chemicals,’ De

gas detection systems with plant controls via

Wet continues.

controller or PLC systems. They also perform

The future holds great possibilities for

annual gas detection calibration and

GPS and Liquitel with De Wet and Roux

certification; design, supply and install full

targeting 200 percent growth in the gas

gas storage facilities, including flammable

and fuel tanker telemetry market. They also

liquid stores and gassing rooms for aerosol

plan to grow the storage depot telemetry

production lines.

business within Liquitel to more than

‘We can offer aerosol propellant suppliers

500 sites in the next two years. •

a tanker metering system that delivers in kilograms and issues the customer with an on-site density printout of the delivery. We were the first company to introduce this system, which is ideal for quality and inventory control, planning and scheduling,

Gas Piping Services – ( Liquitel – (

Monitoring vapour flow meter

P C Review | MAY 2018 |



The new mounded 500m3 storage vessel and existing 400m3 storage vessel mounded during the recent installation at Puregas

Committed to industry growth


n September 2014, Puregas embarked

Due to the size of the storage vessel

on a journey to safeguard its core

the EMS, MHI and EIA approvals were

business. Grant Gascoigne, the

subject to stringent safety requirements.

we had started with the initial planning

company’s technical manager reveals

We also used the opportunity to modernise

and approval processes. Installation

how Puregas remained aligned with its

and upgrade some of the other areas in

was completed and the storage vessel

vision to be a leading supplier of aerosol

the propellant processing plant. The project

commissioned during December 2017, while

propellants in southern Africa.


the entire plant upgrade project will be

• the installation of the new mounded 500m3

completed by June 2018.

Having experienced numerous refinery scheduled and unscheduled shutdowns resulting in decreased propellant availability, Puregas started the process of installing extra butane storage that would improve supply to its customers as well as give the company the ability to store imported product, which was becoming a

storage vessel • mounding of an existing 400m3 storage vessel • installation of fixed rail and road loading arms • improving the emergency shutdown system with built in redundancy.

The project was aimed at meeting our customers’ demands, which we strive to do with safety and integrity. During this project we worked closely with the Emergency Services and other government departments, further cementing our positive relationship with these stakeholders.

significant part of its business. So the journey

All these features are world class and

began of the installation of a 500m³ bulk

significantly reduce the safety risk in storing

commitment to our customers and

butane storage vessel.

and operating the propellant plant.

specifically those operating in the aerosols

The process started by obtaining approval

This investment highlights Puregas’

industry. We are confident this investment

The journey to upgrade

will significantly enhance our ability to

as well as the required approvals for the

Equipment orders were placed in January

guarantee continuity of propellant supply

Major Hazardous Installation (MHI) and the

2017 and we broke ground on 3 May last

during times of inconsistent and poor

Environmental Impact Assessment (EIA).

year, almost two and a half years after

product availability. •

Working together to create

Pure Excellence T 011 903 9760 • F 011 903 9766 •


| MAY 2018 | P C Review

Business with Integrity Committed to Safety & Quality

from the Local Emergency Services (EMS)


Your partner in

Since the first section of the plant was

compliance, quality and safety

commissioned in March 2014 with three automatic filling lines, a second factory has been constructed. This houses five additional semi-automatic filling lines; a labelling section; a brand new antiperspirant spray plant; a beautiful canteen and cloakroom with lockers, changing areas and showers for the staff; a goods in process store and a separate finished goods store with pallets ready for delivery or collection.

Manufacturers play a crucial part in driving economic growth. Yet their futures are being put under pressure by clients demanding price cuts which reduces margins. P C Review chatted to Gordon Howell of Chemlink SA about these challenges and how its aerosol filling business is growing despite these challenges. By Abby Vorster


hemlink SA was launched in 2015 to meet the aerosol filling needs of

PEOPLE FOCUSED Based in Randvaal, within the Midvaal region

smaller businesses and corporate

of Gauteng, Chemlink SA’s aerosol filling plant

companies. Howell is one of four co-

has been constructed from the ground up with

owners of this contract filling business, along with

safety and pleasing aesthetics in mind.

Richard Hallam and Mike Maree (ex Carbotec),

It has a state of the art shutdown

and Andre du Plessis (ex Spraymate). Together,

system with gas sensors. In

they have 150 years’ combined experience in the

the event of a gas leak,

aerosols industry. ‘Our plant was developed in line

an alarm sounds at

with EU compliance requirements and with safety

20 percent detection

as a top priority. We strive to maintain these high

and at 40 percent, an

standards and welcome any visits or audits,’ he

automatic systematic

comments. ‘Unfortunately, compliance, quality

shutdown occurs via

and safety come at a price, yet we’ve chosen to

solenoids throughout the

invest in this segment of the industry, rather than

factory and ultimately to

having our clients run the risk of a product recall

Chemlink provides permanent employment to 27 people from the local community. Another 27 individuals have been trained in teams to spread the earning ability among the local community.

DRIVEN TO MEET CLIENTS’ NEEDS Chemlink SA is an accredited member of the Aerosol Manufacturers’ Association of South Africa (AMA) and Howell is a director and the longest serving member of the association. With its capabilities, experience and available capacity to meet customers’ needs, Chemlink SA has very little down time. When machines go down, they are immediately replaced with stand-by units and the faulty ones, personally repaired or restored overnight to fully operational condition by du

the gas tanks.

Plessis. He is fanatical about

amounting to millions of Rands.’

maintenance and fully operational

While suppliers continue to do their best in

One of the gas sensors – these are located everywhere in the plant

terms of securing supply and excelling at customer service, Howell says corporates and wholesalers

machines, which, at Chemlink SA, are state of the art. ‘We are pedantic about quality and safety and

or brand owners are under major pressure from the retail sector to reduce their margins. ‘Sadly,

have excellent relationships with our suppliers.

between the manufacturer and the aforementioned

No matter how big or small our customers are,

entities, there isn’t an equitable profit margin for all

our motto remains the same: we take care i.e.

the players.’

customers are really everything – all of which play a crucial role in sustaining South Africa’s aerosol industry,’ concludes Howell.

One of the automatic filling lines at Chemlink SA

Tel: +27 (0)16 365 5150 E-mail:

CHEMLINK SA IN NUMBERS: • monthly capacity of two

million units

• producing 800 000 to one million units per month •e  ight

lines in operation, three are fully automated and the other five semi-automatic three lines are ready for operation when needed • a third factory is being built with a series of bonded storage areas for flammable liquids as well as a • an additional

The gassing room at Chemlink SA is separate from the central production area in line with safety and EU compliance requirements

facility for another three semi automatic packing lines.

P C Review | MAY 2018 |



Reinforce urban skin by reconnecting with the origins Urbanisation has reduced our interaction with nature and triggered the prevalence of inflammatory disorders and skin sensitivity. Lipotec’s new Fensebiome peptide helps strengthen vulnerable urban skin by promoting a healthy microbiome and reinforcing skin’s barrier function. Júlia Comas, Olga Laporta, Marie Ollagnier, Núria Almiñana and Raquel Delgado reveal how. previous contact to modern lifestyles,

the other, twice a day. Several microbiome

provided an opportunity for vital microbiome

parameters were assessed after seven days

research. The research compared the

of treatment.

Yanonami skin microbial genome to

The diversity of skin bacteria was

that of urban individuals, who had a

determined using the Shannon index.

reduced connection to nature and higher

After the active treatment, the index value

antimicrobial practices. Results suggested

showed a higher increment compared to

the exposure to modern lifestyles may induce

the placebo, indicating increased bacterial

alterations in the cutaneous microbiota, such

diversity that leads to improved skin health.

as a reduction in bacterial diversity, which

The relative abundance was evaluated

could make skin prone to sensitivity and

at the phylum and family taxonomic levels.


At the end of the treatment, the active

A vital function of the skin microbiota is

ingredient helped increase the relative

to contribute to skin’s role as a protective

abundance of the beneficial bacterial

barrier; this can occur through different

phylum of Proteobacteria by 15.2 percent

iscomfort, fragility, dehydration,

mechanisms. Through direct competition for

(p<0.01) and reduce Firmicutes phylum by

scaliness and redness are all

space and nutrients, beneficial bacteria can

21.3 percent (p<0.01). At the family level, it

characteristics of sensitive

cause the exclusion of potentially harmful

helped increase the relative abundance

skin. Its intolerance to external

bacteria2. The reciprocal interaction of

of Moraxellaceae by 6.4 percent (p<0.01).

aggressors has increased in consumers in

microbiota with keratinocytes helps enhance

It also showed a 25.1 percent reduction in

most urban areas. This evidence suggests

the innate immune response, allowing

Staphylococcaceae (p<0.001).

reduced exposure to nature may be related

pathogen recognition to prevent their

to an increase in the risk of inflammatory

invasion, while promoting maintenance.3, 4


skin conditions. Yet the skin of our ancestors,

Fensebiome peptide (INCI: Aqua,

A predictive microbial functional profile was obtained and represented by KEGG pathway mapping. The peptide helped

who were in closer contact with nature, was

Caprylyl Glycol, Acetyl heptapeptide-4)

enhance bacterial metabolic pathways

more resilient.

is a heptaptide, available in South Africa

related to energy, lipids, amino acids,

from Savannah Fine Chemicals, which is

carbohydrates and vitamins, which have

hunter gatherer village in the Amazon

intended to strengthen urban exposed skin

been detected in the skin of isolated

jungle, whose people did not have any

by reinforcing microbial and physical barrier

populations and could promote the external

The discovery of an isolated Yanomami

0 Days

7 Days

function and preventing


dehydration. The efficacy

supply of nutrients to the skin. A panel of 18 female urban subjects aged

of the active ingredient was

between 26 and 50, who presented dry skin

evaluated through several in

on the legs, applied a cream containing

vivo and in vitro tests.

one percent Fensebiome peptide solution

1% Fensebiome peptide solution

on one shin and a placebo on the other,

In vivo tests and results

twice a day for seven days. Samples of the

A metagenomics analysis

stripping and visualised by fluorescence.

was performed on 21 female

The active treatment decreased sloughed

urban volunteers aged

corneocytes by 18.6 percent (p<0.05),

between 18 and 59. They

reducing scaliness (see Figure 1).

applied a cream containing

Figure 1: Fluorescence microscopy images obtained from different strips before and after each treatment


| MAY 2018 | P C Review

stratum corneum were obtained by tape

A group of 20 female urban volunteers

one percent Fensebiome

aged between 22 and 45 applied a cream

peptide solution on the

containing one percent of the peptide

cubital fossa of one arm

solution and a placebo cream on the

and a placebo cream on

forearm, twice a day for seven days. TEWL


was evaluated after surfactant damage

treated with a medium were used as the

which the peptide helped decrease by

control and reconstructed human epidermis

27.8 percent. These results suggest an

models incubated with 0.02 mg/mL SDS

improved protective effect on the physical

and the medium were used as a positive

barrier to prevent dehydration.

control for barrier disruption. A biotin

Fensebiome peptide

tracer was added at the bottom of the

In vitro tests and results

epidermis models for 30 minutes to allow

The active ingredient is proven to promote

its inside-out diffusion. The presence of the

the adhesion of beneficial skin microbiota.

tracer in the different layers was assessed

Human keratinocytes were pre-incubated

by quantifying microscopy images. Biotin

for 24 hours with 50μg/mL Fensebiome

penetration was inhibited by 64.8 percent

peptide or with culture medium as the

(p<0.0001) compared to the positive control,

control. After 24 hours, the dye was added

control. The epidermal cells were exposed

suggesting a reinforced barrier that can

to the epidermis models for 10 minutes and

to a mixture of S. epidermidis labelled

resist damage induced by SDS.

its diffusion across the epidermis evaluated

with green fluorescence and inactivated

The intercellular lipids were evaluated

Figure 2: Keratinocytes nuclei (blue) pre-incubated with only the medium or the active treatment, showing adhesion of S. epidermidis (green) and of S. aureus (red)

using microscopy imaging. A decreased

red-fluorescently labelled S. aureus. The

by measuring the outside-in diffusion of

penetration of tracer dye was observed

adhesion of each type of bacteria to

toluidine blue dye from the epidermal

despite the presence of SDS, suggesting a

the keratinocytes was determined by

surface. Reconstructed human epidermis

strengthening of the barrier that prevents

fluorescence microscopy (see Figure 2). The

models were treated with 0.02mg/ mL

alterations by chemical aggressors.

active treatment favoured the adhesion of

SDS, to induce a disruption of the stratum

Go to

S. epidermidis with respect to the potentially

corneum, in the presence or absence of

anti-ageing/2217 for the full length

pathogenic S. aureus in keratinocytes.

50μg/mL Fensebiome peptide. Models

technical article on Lipotec’s new

treated with a medium were used as the

Fensebiome peptide.•

Stratum granulosum and stratum corneum integrity dye penetration assays


were performed to indicate TEWL in vitro. Reconstructed human epidermis models were incubated for 24 hours with 50μg/ mL

1. Clemente J, et al. The microbiome of uncontacted Amerindians. Sci. Adv. 1:e1500183, 2015. 2. Chiller K, Selkin B, Murakawa G. Skin microflora and bacterial infections of the skin. Journal of Investigative Dermatology Symposium Proceedings. 6(3):170-174, 2001.

Fensebiome peptide and 0.02mg/mL

3. Sanford J, Gallo. Microbial Symbiosis with the innate immune defense system of the skin. J Invest Dermatol. 131(10): 1974–1980, 2011.

sodium dodecyl sulfate (SDS). Skin models

4. V  on Herzen L, Hanski I, Haahtela T. Natural immunity. EMBO reports. 12(11):1089-1093, 2011.

Reconnect with your origins for healthier skin

Restores urban and sensitive skin by reinforcing its physical barrier and achieving a microbiota similar to that of our ancestors living in closer contact with nature


Aids in

microbiota diversity

preventing dehydration

Offers healthy and

protected skin

SAVANNAH Fine Chemicals (Pty) Ltd Tel: +27 (11) 856 4500 I E-mail: All trademarks owned by The Lubrizol Corporation or its affiliates. © 2018 The Lubrizol Corporation.

2018_112 fensebiome P&C Review 177x130 OK.indd 1

16/4/18 11:17

P C Review | MAY 2018 |



De-puff, renew and reshape the eyes


aturePep Quinoa (INCI:

in a formulation, twice daily, for 28 days.

Chenopodium Quinoa

The active ingredient also reduced eyelid

Seed Extract) from Tri-K is

folds by 13 percent and eyelid roughness

a dual acting superfood

by 15 percent.

derived natural peptide that is clinically proven to visibly reduce under eye bags and puffiness. The small peptides in the active ingredient provide powerful performance to support the structural integrity of the skin and break down fat under the

Features and benefits


Based on dual acting

natural peptides for multiA night time eye treatment is ideal functional performance, because skin regroups overnight NaturePep Quinoa has when its defence against environmental stressors is not on high alert. An been developed using effective eye treatment can help quinoa – an ancient replenish under eye hollows, grain and sustainable reduce sunken shadows and firm the eye contour. plant source.

eyes. This innovative product also diminishes eyelid creases and

It upregulates TGF-ß1 to support structural integrity of the

folds while reducing roughness for lifted

skin and stimulates adipocyte lipolysis to

ageless eyes.

break down fat under the eyes.

Available in South Africa from

The small peptides provide powerful,

ChemSystems, NaturePep Quinoa is

age-defying performance with

globally accepted, non-GMO and

statistically significant clinical results after

naturally gluten free. This proven

28 days. •

ingredient has been tested in a series of in vivo studies. Results showed a 37 percent reduction in eyelid folds after applying two percent NaturePep Quinoa

ChemSystems – Tri-K –

BENEFITS Visibly reduces under eye bags & puffiness for well rested eyes ADVANTAGES Upregulates TGF-ß1 to support structural integrity of the skin Stimulates adipocyte lipolysis to break down fat under the eyes

Diminishes eyelid creases & folds to lift & reshape the eyes Reduces eyelid roughness for ageless skin

Small peptides provide powerful, age-defying performance Statistically significant clinical results after 28 days


| MAY 2018 | P C Review

Shonna Twynham Product Manager Telephone: 27119221830 Mobile: +27(0) 79 372 0761 Fax: +27(0) 11 976 1706 Email: Website:


Patented molecule

guards skin from stress

Are you looking for a cosmetics active ingredient that provides skin with relief from day to day stresses? Bel-Even from DSM sustainably rebalances the skin’s own stress management system.


facial skin elasticity significantly improved by 15.7 percent versus a placebo. Bel-Even helps to increase skin density after four and 12 weeks use. The higher skin density is a result of increased

hether its job related,

protein content

relationship conflicts,

(mostly collagen) in the dermis.

or a busy lifestyle, stress has become a

patented a new active ingredient

constant part of our lives. Skin naturally responds to periods of stress with the formation of more cortisol through 11ß-HSD1enzyme. This release of cortisol, the so called stress hormone, is a normal and healthy adaptation reflex. However, cortisol can turn into an enemy of the skin if it remains in excess over a long period of time.

weeks of application,

that inhibits in vitro 11ß-HSD1. It was specifically developed for skin care


applications using a rational design approach. BelEven rebalances the negative, long term

Stress can cause flare ups and effects of stress on skin worsen pre-existing conditions and visibly reduces such as eczema and psoriasis. When people are stressed, a flood of the signs of a stressful hormone cortisol can tank their lifestyle for fuller, immune system, taking toll on suppler looking skin with their skin and Zen. Source: improved elasticity and barrier function.

The active was also proven to protect skin during a stress test. Using 10 μM of Bel-Even active, prevented UV-induced collagen III damage by inhibiting 11ß-HSD1 enzyme In the study, stress was defined as change of weather conditions to cool and dry from October to December in Switzerland. TEWL of facial skin increased due to seasonal stress in the placebo group. An increase in TEWL means the skin barrier becomes weaker. In the Bel-Even group TEWL remained low and the skin barrier was stable. The skin was better protected against external stress factors.

Beyond using stress coping techniques, consumers are interested

Proven effective

in skin care treatments and products

The effects of one percent Bel-Even

ingredients from DSM are available in South

that work to both help the skin deal with

were tested on ageing parameters and

Africa from Chempure. •

stress and reverse any negative effects.

barrier stability during a three month,

These include skin thinning, loss of

placebo controlled study on 30 female

elasticity and barrier weakening.

subjects aged between 50 and 65.

With Bel-Even (Biphenyl Azepanyl Methanone), DSM has designed and

Results showed the active improves skin elasticity and density; after 12

Bel-Even and other actives and functional

Chempure – DSM –

P C Review | MAY 2018 |



Protect skin with the life force of rice Blue Oléoactif is a new antipollution and anti-blue light active from Hallstar. The company harnessed the life force of rice to provide a safe, innovative and eco-friendly solution to new anti-ageing skin care demands.



vailable in South Africa from Millchem, Blue Oléoactif is sourced from

Blue Oléoactif could be used in facial skin care,

black, red and brown rice using a patented Oléo-éco-

extraction process. It is biomimetic, eco-designed, 100 percent vegetal, safe and Cosmos certified. The active effectively protects skin’s cells from urban pollution and blue light and boosts their defence mechanism. Blue Oléoactif gives skin the power

Innovative research


colour cosmetics and hand and body care products. The active ingredient is composed of complementary

Blue light exposure generates skin pigmentation that is sometimes more pronounced than hyperpigmentation from UV exposure. Source: Hallstar

to protect itself and the ability to detoxify. It regulates hyperpigmentation caused by blue

phytomolecules sourced from rice and soy bean oil. To determine the efficacy of Blue Oléoactif on boosting skin cells’ repair system and reducing ROS, Hallstar conducted an ex vivo study on

skin explants from two different Caucasian women, aged 55 and 57. The company used an

light, effectively boosts cell repair and protects DNA

exclusive cosmeto-genomic technique; positive

and other cellular components of the damaging

results are available on request from Millchem

effects induced by urban pollution. The active is

and Hallstar. •

also proven exceptionally efficient in preventing and repairing reactive oxygen species (ROS) formation and damage induced by urban pollution and blue light.

| MAY 2018 | P C Review

Hallstar – Millchem –


The power of

nature captured for beautiful skin

There is a new range of South African botanical extracts on the market, which target ageing, dry and dull skin, wrinkles, redness, inflammation, puffiness and pore size reduction. These actives from Zuplex are available locally from Botanichem.


Athrixia phylicoides

well as to reduce wrinkle depth. Miramor is an extract developed from the leaves of the Moringa or ‘miracle tree’. It assists with reducing transepidermal water loss helping increase skin hydration. It also reduces skin roughness, wrinkles and scaliness, and revitalises skin to reveal a younger and healthier appearance.

uplex Botanicals (Zuplex) is

are supported by comprehensive dossiers.

Miramor also minimises the

a South African producer of

This is significant for local formulators and

effects of blue light and UV

botanical ingredients. Its new

manufacturers. They will now have the

pollution on skin which lead

range includes several exciting

option to use locally sourced botanical

to oxidative stress.

Harpagophytum procumbens

and innovative botanical extracts aimed

ingredients that are internationally

at the global cosmetics industry. The

recognised but at affordable prices, without

the African botanical Harpagophytum

company was established to add value

the additional expense of transport and

procumbens or ‘devil’s claw’. Modern

to unique and established botanicals

import duties.

environmental conditions with prevalent

through the manufacture of standardised

Rosacalm is a targeted extract of

atmospheric pollution, extreme weather

extracts using innovative technologies. It

Actives in focus

patterns and stressed lifestyles can result

is vertically integrated and offers services

Atriclear, a natural botanical extract

in damaged, distressed skin. Rosacalm is

from cultivation to the final preparation

sourced from the herbaceous shrub Athrixia

targeted at relieving redness, inflammation

of extracts.

phylicoides, has been clinically tested to

and puffiness and restoring a youthful glow.

All Zuplex’s new products have undergone independent efficacy testing in Europe and Image A shows Myrothamnus flabellifolius in a dried out state, and B shows the revived plant after rainfall

refine and improve skin texture by reducing

Bao-Active C, as its name indicates,

pore apertures while firming and toning the

is derived from the pulp of the baobab

skin leaving it soothed and feeling smoother.

fruit. This extract has pronounced anti-

It was also short listed for an in-cosmetics

oxidant properties while the complex set

Global 2018 Innovation Zone Green

of additional nutrients promotes rapid and

Ingredient Award.

sustained cell regeneration. It has been

Myravive is derived from the leaf of the

used for thousands of years to recharge

Myrothamnus flabellifolius or ‘resurrection

and revive the skin. The high levels of

plant’, which appears to die completely

vitamin C in baobab fruit provide a natural

during drought and resurrects itself after

way to prevent wrinkles associated with

rainfall, returning to a lush and green state.

photo-ageing. •

This miraculous ability to rehydrate and revive itself has inspired its use in cosmetics as an anti-ageing agent for skin hydration, firmness, smoothness and elasticity as

Botanichem – Zuplex –

P C Review | MAY 2018 |



Proven natural actives for mass market skin care Codif presents two mass market actives inspired by K and J beauty market trends. While the company has a reputation for producing premium actives for personal care, it has recognised a need for well-priced, mass market actives with substantiation.


added to the cultivation (oxidant

MM100 (view of the surface hydration state)

stress) to enhance the protective

as well as visual rating of the face by a

molecules. The cultivation is

beautician in terms of the suppleness of the

collected and transformed through a

skin, softness and hydration aspect. Long

thermal hydrolysis.

term tests also involved macrophotographs

This extract contains seawater,

of the eye contour. Data revealed the

polysaccharides (rhamnose, xylose,

mask containing Rodacea PE increased

glucuronic acid and galactose),

hydration by 61 percent and improved

a small amount of phospholipids

suppleness and softness by 30 percent.

(fragments of cell walls) and a

The lotion containing one percent active

small amount of glycoglycerolipids

induced a significant improvement in the

(monogalactosyl diglyceride and

cutaneous hydration.

digalactosyl diglycerid). Like Snail Filtrate, Rodacea is able

Earth marine water

to promote numerous cutaneous

A French aquaculture society which

mechanisms. It stimulates the physical

breeds juvenile turbot used to export

nail Filtrate is an ingredient

defence, oxygenation, antioxidant

these fish to Asia, but they had a very high

extracted from a defensive

defence, anti-microbial defence,

mortality rate. By using Earth Marine Water

liquid secreted by a mollusc

regeneration of the skin; firmness,

instead of sea water for the transportation

(snail). It’s been used as

suppleness and softness of the skin

of fish, the pisciculturist noticed they had

and hydration.

a better survival rate. Scientists have

a solution for skin care products to protect, restore, renew and hydrate.

In vitro tests were carried out to

The popularity of beauty products

also discovered that microalgae have

show Rodacea’s efficacy on collagen

a better growth rate in Earth Marine

containing snail extract kicked off

synthesis. The results are available on

Water confirming its protective and vital

a few years ago, driven by trends in

request. Two sets of in vivo tests were

environmental capabilities. This inspired

the Asia Pacific region. Yet certain

also conducted. The first involved the

Codif to study this unique water to better

factors have prevented the growth

application of a facial mask containing

understand it.

of the Snail Filtrate trend such as a

two percent Rodacea PE for 15 minutes;

demand for more ethical behaviours

the second saw the application of a

minerals and springs up at the surface

and vegan and religious concerns.

lotion containing one percent Rodacea

of Noirmoutier, a small authentic and

Snail Filtrate repels western European

PE on the face twice daily for 14 days.

preserved island off the Atlantic coast

consumers and many consumers

Both sets of tests were then

do not want to use products

evaluated by measuring skin

derived from animals. The snail mucus extraction doesn’t correspond with ethical behaviours because it involves submitting the gastropods to extremely stressful conditions for a


Rodacea and Earth Marine Water are both available in South Africa from Vantage Specialty Chemicals.

period of time. Codif’s Rodacea is said to be the new generation of Snail Filtrate. It’s a total extract of the microalga Rhodella violacea. This unicellular eukaryote, with a size between eight and 14μm, belongs to the Rhodophyceae class and is naturally present in the temperate waters of Europe, North America and Asia. The alga is cultivated in photobioreactor with sea water enriched with nutrients. H 2 0 2 is


| MAY 2018 | P C Review

hydration using MoistureMap

Earth Marine Water is enriched with

located in the west of France, in the Vendée region. This is where it is collected by Codif Technologie Naturelle. The clear green waters of Noirmoutier at low tide

ANTI-AGEING It is a deep sea water that penetrates the crust and becomes a ground sea water. It goes through the different geological layers and absorbs large amounts of useful minerals. Noirmoutier is a massive natural area with predominantly salt marshes and banks, sand dunes and evergreen oak forests, making it a favourable place for plant and animal species. The island is referred to as the

Like Snail Filtrate, Rodacea is able to promote numerous cutaneous mechanisms

Island of Mimosas, due to its climatic

as much production of free radicals as thermal water. Additional tests were conducted to measure the protection offered against cigarette smoke and exhaust fumes. These tests showed positive results in cellular protection and anti-inflammation. More detailed results are available. For the in vivo tests, a facial mask containing two percent Earth Marine Water G was applied on the face for 15 minutes. This resulted in a reduced number

temperateness, which allows for

human dermal fibroblasts stressed with a

of pores as well as an immediate glow to

year-round flowering of Acacia

depleted medium and treated with 0.1 to

the skin. A second test was conducted

debealta (mimosa).

0.5 percent of both seawater and Earth

by applying a lotion containing one

Marine Water (=0.2 to one percent of Earth

percent Earth Marine Water G to the face

variances to seawater in terms of

Marine Water G). The cellular viability

twice daily for 14 days. An evaluation of

solution macroelements yet it is richer in

was measured using MTT testing. Other

carbonylated proteins on D-squam with

microelements such as Manganese, Zinc,

tests included stressing human dermal

a probe, clinical rating of skin colour as

Columbite and Lithium. Iron, Manganese

fibroblasts with a depleted medium as

well self-evaluation of volunteers was

and Zinc are implicated in the antioxidant

well as H 2 0 2 and treating them with 0.1 to

done. It was noted that Earth Marine Water

defence especially via enzymes such

0.5 percent of each water (=0.2 to one

promoted clarity, luminosity and a healthy-

as SOD. These compounds are essential

percent of Earth Marine Water G). The

looking complexion within one week. •

for cellular respiration, oxygen transport,

cellular viability was then measured using

skin integrity and the metabolism of

the MTT test. After stress exposure, cells

amino acids.

treated with Earth Marine Water recovered

Earth Marine Water has a few

To prove the advantages of Earth Marine Water, in vitro protocol involved

vitality faster and greater than with thermal water. These cells also avoided twice

Codif – Vantage Specialty Chemicals –

P C Review | MAY 2018 |



Bacteria and skin care

united in the middle Cosmetics and the skin microbiome is a challenging subject. Harald van der Hoeven from CLR Chemisches Laboratorium helps us understand the role of the skin microbiome and how to develop novel claims using the company’s proven ingredients.

Probiotic bacteria are different from the microbes on our skin


acteria and the skin microbiome remain hot topics in the cosmetics

improvement of the composition of the skin microbiome has cosmetics relevance. For instance, ‘suitable for ageing or sensitive skin’. To accomplish this, it is important to thoroughly understand the skin microbiome and its role. The good microbes on our skin protect us is a well-known fact, but their role does not stop there. At least some species in the skin

industry and it looks like they

microbiome interact with differentiating

are going to continue to

be the centre of attention for a long time. The concept of good bacteria, many of which live on the skin, resonates with consumers. However, on a scientific level, the skin microbiome is still an extremely challenging topic. Most cosmetics claim ‘mildness’


keratinocytes in the epidermis. They strengthen the skin’s immune capabilities, barrier function and

Probiotics are fuelling a toxin-free its ability to manage and control skin care revolution. Dermatologists, the microbiome. S. epidermidis brands and consumers are interested is generally recognised as in probiotic based topical products to address and correct a multitude of one of the good bacteria and skin conditions including premature has been called a probiotic, ageing, acne, hypersensitivity, thanks its ability to interact dullness, rosacea and with keratinocytes with positive inflammation.

to the skin microbiome or having a ‘balancing effect’ yet ‘improving in the industry. This claim should resonate with consumers and is of great interest to the

| MAY 2018 | P C Review

interesting approaches and claims where the

against the colonisation of bad bacteria. This

the skin microbiome’ is a claim rarely seen


cosmetics industry. The challenges lie in finding

outcomes. This is food for thought and an interesting and important realisation for the cosmetics industry. The skin microbiome is also important because it protects against UV-induced


Figure 1: Reduction of IL-10 expression after UV irradiation

Figure 2: Increase of IL-12 expression after UV irradiation

efficacious and safe in use. Conceptually they fit into the skin microbiome trend and have a relevant activity. Probiotic lysates positively influence both the physical and immunological barrier function of the skin. A lysate of Bifidobacterium longum (INCI: Bifida Ferment Lysate; trade name: Repair Complex CLR PF) has already been in use in cosmetics for more than 30 years and is proven to act against UV-induced immunosuppression, analogous to the effects of the skin microbiome, as mentioned above. Through

immunosuppression. UV light not only damages

the interaction with keratinocytes it was shown that

skin cells, but also reduces the ability of the skin

the production of immunosuppressive Interleukin-10

cells to repair damage, which is essentially an

(IL-10) was reduced (see Figure 1, which shows the

immunological process.

expression of IL-10 in human keratinocytes after

Understanding these important properties of the

UV irradiation with three J/cm² UVA + 0.3J/cm²

skin microbiome is of great interest to the cosmetics

UVB) allowing for the increase in IL-12 (see Figure

industry. The interaction between a healthy skin

2, showing IL-12 expression in human keratinocytes

microbiome and the keratinocytes shows a striking

after UV irradiation with one J/cm² UVA + 0.1 J/cm²

similarity to the interaction between the lactic acid-

UVB). IL-12 is immune-strengthening and described

producing probiotic bacteria in our gut and the

as important in inducing DNA repair processes. This

epithelial cells on which they reside.

outcome of the use of Repair Complex CLR PF was also proven both in vitro and in vivo (data not shown).

Probiotic skincare This already big category continues to grow. Most

Improve skin renewal

brands that market or claims their products as

This analogy between the effects of a lysate of

‘probiotic’ or ‘containing an active ingredient based

probiotic bacteria and the skin microbiome is just

on probiotic technology’ are formulated with lysates

one example. Another one is a lysate of Lactococcus

of probiotic bacteria.

lactis (INCI: Lactococcus Ferment Lysate; trade

Probiotic bacteria live in symbiosis with us in our gut – they need us and we need them. The Figure 3: Acceleration of skin renewal

and improves the skin renewal processes. Its

similar function for skin as

positive influence on the differentiation processes is

probiotic bacteria has for

remarkable (data not shown). These effects were also confirmed in in vivo studies,

gut. Probiotic bacteria are,

where it was shown that three percent ProRenew

however, different from the

Complex CLR improves the desquamation process, a

microbes on our skin. They

fundamental part of the differentiation process (data

would not survive when

not shown).

placed on our skin, at least

In another study, after removing stratum corneum

not for long. The skin surface

by tape stripping, the treatment with three percent

is cool and desiccated –

ProRenew Complex CLR allowed for a quicker

an environment in which

recovery of the skin barrier properties and an

probiotic bacteria are not

accelerated renewal of the stratum corneum (see

able to survive.

Figure 3). Strikingly, ProRenew Complex CLR was

Interestingly, lysates of probiotic bacteria have successfully been

| MAY 2018 | P C Review

showed ProRenew Complex CLR both accelerates

skin microbiome has a

the epithelial wall in our


name: ProRenew Complex CLR). In vitro experiments

also able to improve the production of AMPs, like cathelicidin and ß-defensin-1 (see Figure 4). Like Repair Complex CLR PF, ProRenew Complex

used in many cosmetics

CLR’s effects on skin are essentially similar to that of

products for decades. They

a healthy skin microbiome. This includes helping the

have proven themselves

skin in keeping its microbiome healthy. Healthy and

in the marketplace as

functional skin has a healthy skin microbiome.

ANTI-AGEING Figure 4: Stimulation of cathelicidin and ß-defensin-1

Supporting and improving the skin microbiome implies supporting and improving the skin’s epidermal renewal processes, in particular differentiation, and its ability to counteract UV-induced

ABOUT Harald van der Hoeven is the technical marketing director at CLR Chemisches Laboratorium, a Berlin-based company that develops, manufactures and markets innovative and high quality cosmetics actives for skin and hair care.

immunosuppression. This can be achieved with ProRenew Complex CLR (Lactococcus Ferment Lysate) and Repair Complex CLR PF (Bifida Ferment Lysate), which can be sourced in South Africa from IMCD. Their mechanism of action is identical to that of the commensal good skin bacteria. It is for good reason these good skin bacteria are called

Proven to support

probiotic. Lysates of probiotic bacteria are

The skin itself is the most important factor in

a potent and proven support for the skin in

improving or balancing the skin microbiome. If

maintaining and improving its homeostasis

the skin loses its ability to successfully support the

and microbiome. •

Healthy and functional skin has a healthy skin microbiome

skin microbiome, the microbiome will suffer. A good example for this is atopic dermatitis, where the lack of the ability to sufficiently produce AMPs leads to S. aureus starting to overgrow the other bacteria.

CLR Chemisches Laboratorium – IMCD South Africa – www.imcdgroup. com/worldwide/south-africa

Crest Chemicals

Representing ABITEC on products for ageing skin Hydro~Kote® Captex® Sterotex® Pureco® Caprol® Capmul® Nutri Sperse®

Contact us: Johannesburg (011)254 3300, Cape Town (021)534 3140, Durban (031)9025324, East London (043) 726 8713 and Port Elizabeth (041)453 1981 Crest chemicals.indd 1

2018/04/30 8:02 AM

P C Review | MAY 2018 |



Get online pricing right with advanced software

Pricing is the primary challenge of all online retailers. BMi Research in partnership with BlackCurve is offering a holistic pricing solution to brand owners, manufacturers and retailers in both the cosmetics and pharma industries.


ricing is a business-critical

real time purchasing decisions. This leaves

activity. Getting it

online and traditional retailers as well as

right – provided the

brands in a challenging

data and pricing are

position in terms of how they

accurate – is more than likely

present consistently optimal

to result in an increase in sales

price offerings.

and profits. Get it wrong and

It’s one challenge to have

you jeopardise your brand’s

accurate competitive pricing

future sustainability.

data at hand, while having

BMi Research and BlackCurve, a global price management company,

a single price management Gareth Pe

recently announced a

platform to effectively execute ar son

the company price strategy is quite another.’

partnership that will combine best practices in pricing management

Price intelligently

with price trend expertise to offer client’s a

In a business environment where

holistic pricing solution.

88 percent of online retailers have

BlackCurve offers a software system

indicated the increased importance of

that allows for the uploading of sales

pricing, BlackCurve allows brand owners

and pricing data via Excel or CSV. It uses

to determine the best selling price for

machine learning, advanced mathematics

all products. This is made possible by

and an excellent user interface (UI) to

analysing competitor pricing, ensuring that

make for easy, fast and profitable pricing,

they neither under nor over-sell, improving

finding the ideal price for every product.

sales and margins.

Cloud based, the software offers a live feed

Pricing is often a laborious and complex

that supports pricing being set in advance.

process, which impacts sales. As an

This means the system can be operated

automatic software system, BlackCurve

remotely and all changes are automated.

eliminates time consuming manual

‘Never before have businesses faced

processes that use significant resources

more challenging times from a selling

and are susceptible to human error. The

price accuracy perspective,’ says Gareth

leading edge software technology allows

Pearson, CEO at BMi Research. ‘Cash

for continuous monitoring and price

strapped, price sensitive customers

changes that can be made in real time,

extensive pricing and promotional data

replacing manual processes where the

at their disposal enabling them to make

majority of pricing is not optimal.

The system

Philip Huthwa


takes data such as inventory, products and costs and applies rules that align to business objectives including desired margins, website performance, price elasticity, commercial plan, competitor position and stock levels to create real time, automated price optimisation. Multi-channel pricing is key to most pricing strategies. BlackCurve applies pricing strategies to every channel used by clients – from websites to market places and geographic regions. Products are priced intelligently, which helps clients find the right price using pricing rules aligned to their particular business objectives. Private labels are managed using private label pricing rules to create a better pricing position while maximising returns. In addition, retailers can make use of BlackCurve to amplify entire ranges of products at optimal prices, instead of merely their key lines.

Ideal for FMCG International customers already using BlackCurve include Appliance House, Clever Boxes, Electrical World, Merck, Ribble and Little Blue Van Logistics. Various South African sectors will be targeted including apparel, grocery, pharmacies, outdoor and camping, high tech and other online offerings including manufacturers and distributors of FMCG products. ‘Automating price processes offers the added advantage of saving time by freeing staff from spending their time doing manual pricing each week,’ reveals Philip Huthwaite, BlackCurve founder and CEO. ‘We look forward to bringing our price management optimisation technology to the South African market and are delighted to have BMi Research exclusively represent it. There is no doubt smarter pricing will help drive the revenue and profitability of BMi Research’s customers.’ •

BlackCurve – BMi Research –


| MAY 2018 | P C Review

PHARMA FOCUS//Technology

Gain insight

into the immune system using AI CytoReason is an immune-focused AI technology company that generates insights to reveal complex patterns in a variety of biological data. This information is vital to pharma manufacturers and game changing for personalised medicine.


sing an Artificial Intelligence model of the

hospitals, the company proved

immune system, CytoReason looked into

strength in predictive insights

genomic data of patients that responded

into TNF drugs, effectively

to treatment from anti-inflammatory drugs

cutting costs, time and risks

such as Remicade versus those that did not respond.

for pharma companies during

Comparing the results, the company discovered

their development cycle. It also

specific biomarkers in blood and tissue samples

prevents safety issues, creates a more

which predicted who would and would not respond

personalised medical experience and

to anti-TNF drugs such as Remicade in the future.

reduces unnecessary prescriptions.

Typically the process to determine whether

‘Leveraging our platform and proprietary data,

a patient was responsive to anti-TNF drugs like

we offer our pharma partners an unparalleled

Remicade took over three months and was

resource, becoming their system

dependant on trial and error, exposing the patient

immunology sounding board,’ says

to potential side effects and unnecessary costs.

David Harel, co-founder and

In the first public demonstration of its technology,

president of CytoReason. ‘Our

CytoReason used three different publicly available

proprietary machine-learning

and independent clinical trials to study the RNA from

engine enhances its performance

lesion tissues to see what the difference was in those

with each new dataset introduced.

who responded to the anti-TNF treatment to those

Our platform enables innovative

who did not. Discovering what the differences were

big-data analysis, focusing on solving mysteries in

through the use of its AI technology, CytoReason was

immune related disorders and therapies, affecting

able to determine when a pharmaceutical product

the cost of target identification, reducing the risk of

will and will not be effective.

clinical trials, and bringing the world closer to an affordable personalised medicine.’ •

An unparalleled resource As the leading AI platform for autoimmune diseases and cancer-immunotherapy, CytoReason provides

CytoReason –

immunologists with a system level view of immune responses. In a blind validation from various top

COMPANY SNAP SHOT FOUNDED IN 2016, CytoReason uses its AI model of the immune system to generate biological insights. Rooted in

CLINICAL EXPERIMENTAL DATA - Cell and protein measurements - Gene expression and epigenetics - Microbiome PRIOR KNOWLEDGE PUBLIC - Published literature - Trial data repositories - Patent database

over a decade of academic research, the science behind CytoReason is well published and clinically validated. From new cancer immunotherapies to autoimmune and neurodegenerative research, the company is supporting the boldest attempts to improve health outcomes by generating


PRIOR KNOWLEDGE PROPRIETARY - Trained immune interactions model - Internally-generated measurements - Animal model translational learning

- Within data type analysis - Across data type analysis

biological insights. These insights can be translated into faster and more beneficial drug development cycles as well as improve patient outcomes. Among CytoReason’s customers are some of the largest global pharma companies and research organisations.

DISCOVERY/R&D ANALYSIS - Pathway and target identification - Proprietary and literature target/ pathway validation - Preliminary safety and off-target effect

CLINICAL ANALYSES - Non-Responders’ stratification - MOA and adverse events - Indication prioitization for given pathway - Companion Diagnostics (biomarkers)

P C Review | MAY 2018 |


PHARMA FOCUS//Technology

Access to healthcare

advanced through new technology Developments in way pharmaceuticals are manufactured and used have improved treatments, saved lives, cured diseases and created greater access to healthcare for more people. But the quest for new therapies, improved efficacy and getting medicines to patients faster requires constant innovation and solutions beyond the laboratory. By Heidi Kruger

A Another exciting new technology being used is hot melt extrusion

dvances in manufacturing, serialisation,

‘Non profit organisation, Right to Care, partnered

labelling, shipping and distribution

with Gauteng Health Department to create

while still ensuring sustainable

a pharmacy dispensing unit inspired by ATM

business practices have contributed

machines,’ says Solomon. ‘This technology gives

to the boom in the global pharma market.

patients suffering from chronic illnesses their meds in

According to the International Federation of

under three minutes.’

Pharmaceutical Manufacturers Association, the

The machine is driven by sophisticated

global pharmaceutical market will reach nearly USD

technology but still has a human touch as

1,430 billion by 2020 with ‘pharmerging’ countries

patients are assisted by tele-pharmacists. Once

accounting for 25 percent of global spending on

a pharmacist uploads a patient’s prescription

pharmaceuticals by 2020, compared to 23 percent

onto the system, the patient can use his or her

in 2015.

ID book and a pin to access the machine and choose the prescription, which is dropped into the

Improved access South Africa’s unique burden of disease means that

collection slot. Similar dispensers have also been introduced in

those involved in the domestic manufacture and

Dubai and the USA where they are hailed for being

supply of pharmaceuticals know only too well the

more efficient than pharmacists while still abiding

demands associated with creating access while

by regulations.

competing in pressurised market conditions. Yusuf Solomon, business development executive

Imperial Logistics has embarked on a healthcare supply chain solution in Malawi which will see the

at Pharma Dynamics, explains how the invention

installation of solar energy at 85 healthcare facilities

of a pharmacy dispensing unit has created

in the country. The project will provide hospitals

more efficiency and convenience for patients

with 100kW solar panels, as well as panel arrays

and pharmacists.

and photovoltaic systems. This project will also

Examples of ATM medicine dispensers


| MAY 2018 | P C Review

PHARMA FOCUS//Technology include solar powered street lights at hospitals, solar geysers and air conditioning.

AI in manufacturing Solomon says that technology is also allowing for shorter manufacturing time, thanks to advances such as 3D printing Yu su f So

and Artificial Intelligence (AI).


‘AI capability will assist in sifting through massive

Spectroscopic Solutions for the Validated Pharmaceutical Industry

amounts of scientific data. This could allow drug manufactures to significantly shorten the manufacturing time. AI combined with 3D printing could potentially allow specific dosage forms to be manufactured per individual need,’ he continues. ‘This could revolutionise the entire value chain within the industry. In the future we may see the end customer potentially printing their own medicine.’ According to Ajay Pal, senior director of manufacturing at Cipla South Africa, another exciting new technology being used is hot melt extrusion. This involves applying heat and pressure to melt ingredients together to form granules for next


FTIR Spectrometer


FT-NIR Spectrometer

step operation. Technological innovation has also enabled the production of multi-layered tablets, made up of two to four layers, which have different release profiles and APIs, making more effective combinations in tablets possible. These tablets could be more efficient for patients having to take several medications at the same time. Although it is difficult to produce new drugs that improve on existing ones, current treatments are hindered by a lack of patient compliance due to the burden of taking many medications at once.

Serialisation on packaging


Handheld Raman Spectrometer

Today, more and more countries are being required to produce sophisticated barcoding on all pharmaceutical products in order to track and trace medicines for logistical efficiency, due to a growing concern about counterfeit drugs. Solomon explains: ‘Pharmaceutical serialisation is the tracking and tracing of the passage of prescription drugs through the supply chain from manufacturing to dispensing. This is generally accomplished through automated, electronic means, and is legally required in many countries. It involves such company practices as recording, authenticating,

OPUS Software supports traceable Reference Standards Instrument Qualification according to USP, PhEur, JP Internal Validation Unit (IVU) for automated OQ & PQ Full 21 CRF part 11 support for Data Security, Integrity, Traceability

maintaining and sharing accurate records of items prior to dispatching.’ Regulations for serialisation are becoming a priority for pharmaceutical manufacturers and supply chain partners globally. Both developed and developing countries have already implemented regulations for serialisation or are doing so. In South Africa new regulations call for labels with clear barcodes to be attached to all medicines intended for human use, so that the medication can be more easily identified and tracked.

Today´s regulated pharmaceutical laboratories must comply with extensive regulatory requirements. Bruker offers together with its high-end FTIR, FT-NIR and Raman spectrometer line comprehensive system validation tools to achieve systematic and costeffective compliance.

Contact us for more details

Counterfeiting pharmaceuticals can cause serious harm and can happen in many ways, including mislabelling medication and selling medication which does not

Innovation with Integrity


have the active ingredient which might instead have dangerous chemicals.

P C Review | MAY 2018 |


PHARMA FOCUS//Technology According to the World Health

Imperial Health Sciences recently completed a worldclass expansion at its Centurion facility in Gauteng

Organization (WHO) an estimated one in 10 medical products in low-and middle-income countries is substandard or falsified with anti-malarials and antibiotics among the most commonly reported substandard and falsified medical products. Tracking and tracing medicines also enables advanced analytics programmes, which could provide insights into consumption patterns, geographical locations, as well as marketing effectiveness. ‘Serialisation will become mandatory in


Biologics, biosimilars and nonoriginal biologic products are increasing their share of the global pharma market and dominating sales. For example, in 2002 biologics accounted for 11 percent (US$46 billion) of global packs (cartons) and sales, but projections for 2017 show inserting the patient that biologics will expand to information sheet. ~20% (US$212 billion) of global sales. ‘Cartonators have

Europe in 2019 which means all packaging of products will require

automated, built in systems which verify product details by

Biosimilars or ‘follow on’ biologics have been embraced by most developed countries and many emerging nations as a cost control measure. According to the handbook on biosimilars, produced by the European Medicines Agency, the

unique printing per pack (which) will

recognising and proof reading each

introduction of biosimilars has brought

complicate the supply chain and drive

packaging component,’ he says.

costs down not only through utilisation of

up cost. This will potentially take place in SA around 2024,’ says Solomon.

Pal adds that automated quality

these drugs but also through competitive

management systems like Trackwise

price reductions of the originator

and the Laboratory Information

counterparts. According to the Biosimilars

verification and inventory identification is

Management system are aimed at

Council, biosimilars are expected to rise to

one of the latest advances in technology.

improving compliance and efficiency

$387 billion by the end of 2019, increasing

The 2D symbol can store a large amount

of pharma manufacturing. These

by 10.6 percent compound annual

of information to record important data

involve one system for tracking and

growth rate.

such as expiry dates, use by dates and

reporting on the quality of products in

when the product must go through a

an automated work flow process.

According to Pal, 2D coding for

quality driven recall programme. Data Matrix symbols can be applied directly

Advances in biotechnology include personalised medicine, which uses information about a person’s genes,


proteins and environment to prevent,

Biologics have revolutionised the

diagnose and treat disease. In cancer,

treatment of many diseases, such

it is used to understand more about the

as cancers, rheumatoid arthritis and

genetics of a cancer and the differences

packaging operations have become

Crohn’s disease and are increasing in

in the genes of cancer cells. For example,

highly automated through the use of

importance. Globally, in 2016 nine out

Herceptin works on breast cancer which

cartonators, which not only involves

of the top 10 pharmaceutical products

is high in a protein called HER2, but not

packaging of the primary product but

were biologics. But these drugs are

for breast cancers that do not have

also packaging it into patient ready

complex and expensive.

this protein.

on the product or packaging and can be read in any language. Pal says that over a period of time

Advances in biotechnology include personalised medicine, which uses information about a person’s genes, proteins and environment to prevent, diagnose and treat disease 34

| MAY 2018 | P C Review

As the name implies, they are derived from biological sources or

Sustainability on the rise

living organisms – human, animal

Pal says businesses are aiming to be more

and microorganisms – and are

environmentally friendly by utilising clean

complex mixtures manufactured

solar energy, rain water harvesting, reducing

using biotechnology, under controlled

landfill burden by waste classification and

conditions. Driving the cost is the

moving to paper free electronic systems like

development of these therapies,

e-log book and e-batch records.

which in some cases takes between

Imperial Health Sciences’ three-in-

10 and 12 years and costs in excess of

one project proved that environmental

US$1 billion before being introduced

sustainability could go hand in hand

to market. The costs associated with

with financial benefit. This project, which

biopharmaceuticals contributes

saw three business operations being

to mounting and unsustainable

consolidated into one site, resulted in power

healthcare in developed markets and

consumption savings, reduced electricity

in developing markets create a barrier

demand, a reduction in transportation and

to access.

a financial benefit to its clients. •


Proven ingredients for thirsty roots and fragile tresses Seppic’s Sabrina Mizael, emollients product manager for beauty care and Anna Momméja, beauty care active ingredients expert, discuss innovative ingredients to address the moisturisation, shine, curl definition and anti-frizz needs of African hair. Paradoxically,

greater for African women than

it is also the

it is for any other consumer

most exposed to

group. They use a wide and

stressful processes

diverse spectrum of hair products and

like mechanical

looks and love using them. They also

forces, combing

visit salons more regularly than their

and chemical

European counterparts.


The African hair care segment is a big

The intense

market. According to a Euromonitor report,

ellipticity of the

between 2010 and 2015 hair care was

follicle growing

among the fastest growing categories of

parallel to the scalp

products sold in South Africa, with sales

provides a high

climbing 38 percent during that period.

degree of curliness.

African hair is known to be the most

Due to this, the hairs

fragile, dry and brittle hair type and

wrap around each

requires more care and attention.

other, resulting in

Figure 1: Emosmart V21 – hair shine measurement vs Phenyl Trimethicone


Hair shine scoring (luster)


he importance of hair care is


Hair shine measurement before and after rinse off treatment


* Untreated hair tresses Treated hair tresses




1% Emosmart V21

1% EMOGREEN L15 1% Phenyl Trimethicone


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P C Review | MAY 2018 |



Figure 2: Emosmart V21 hair shine measurement vs Phenyl Trimethicone

is to nourish and protect

Figure 3: Emosmart V21 anti-frizz effect on curly hair at 80 percent hygroscopic conditions

the hair from external aggressors caused by

Frizz measurement


twists, braids and locks,

2% Dimethicone (350 cps)

and combing.

2% Emosmart V21 500

Biodegradable oil



Volume (cm³)


Emosmart V21

Phenyl Trimethicone


targeting curly hair


needs. Emosmart V21 is a biodegradable oil for


shine, frizz control and 0


stress. So, it’s vital to have

combing hair becomes a challenge and

good grooming habits

requires time, patience and determination.

to prevent damage and

Detangling African hair often results in

keep African hair healthy,

mechanical stress for the hair follicle and

resistant and shiny.

fibre. An alternative is to straighten

Ideal hair care products for African hair are those with a

the hair. But the

light and non-greasy

different processes

texture which enhance

to achieve straight

style and condition the

hair, be it chemical

hair. Brand owners and

or mechanical,

manufacturers need

are not exactly

to factor in additional

healthy and

vast R&D on hair care and offers two ingredients

serious tangles. The simplest gesture of

weakening of the hair

Seppic has been doing

combing whilst Xylishine


is a sugar based active

Women are embracing their curls and natural hair texture

ingredient for moisture, shine, repair and curl definition. The readily biodegradable oil has attractive sensory properties and hair care efficiency and is a good alternative to silicones. Emosmart V21 as an inert fluid oil is compatible with extreme formulation conditions. It is not sensitive to oxidation, pH change or oxidising/ reducing media. Seppic performed several

market demands when producing hair

tests with Emosmart V21 to compare

invariably lead

care products. These include the trend

its performance to silicone oils. Shine

to damage.

towards clean cosmetics in line with

performance was evaluated with only one

Styling habits

consumers’ concerns regarding the

percent Emosmart V21 in a classic rinse

also cause

safety and toxicity of various ingredients.

off conditioner formulation. The results


They also expect more environmentally

showed a significant increase in hair shine

Since the

friendly, natural and simple products,

versus the untreated hair tress after just

hair fibre

free from harmful materials. The natural

one application. The market reference,

hair movement is another trend growing

Phenyl Trimethicone has also been tested

structure, it cannot

worldwide and popular in Africa, where

(see Figures 1 and 2).

repair damage

women are embracing their curls and

caused by external

natural hair texture. The challenge then

Nexa Light Nexa Bold

is a non-living

Oils are also used in hair care treatments to prevent frizz or to control

Specially formulated to help soothe, heal and enhance new and existing tattoos. Manufactured by Zinplex Cosmeceuticals (Pty)Ltd for and on behalf of House of Zinplex (Pty)Ltd t: 086 111 9462 • f: 012 803 9283 • e:


| MAY 2018 | P C Review

Terms and Conditions Apply


Figure 4: Emosmart V21 wet combing performance vs market benchmarks

Figure 5: Xylishine water balance and hair

Dry hair:


rough brittleforked

Reference After treatment


Moisturized hair:

SHINE strong


easy to manage

135 120

Exit of hair moisture

Closed scales

75 60 45

Wet envir onment


Penetration of ambient water


Open scales


Dr y envir onment

Mean combing force required (gram force)

Mean combing force required versus untreated hair tresses

15 -92%


Emosmart V21 (2%)



Dimethicone (350 cps) (2%)

Mineral oil (2%)

hair volume. To evaluate Emosmart V21

the required combing force after only

Emosmart V21 is an environmentally

in the most extreme conditions, a

one application by approximately 90

friendly and easy to use emollient with

test was performed on hair tresses

percent. It can therefore be claimed

excellent biodegradability. Thanks to its

subjected to 80 percent humidity for

as a true alternative to market

efficiency to improve hair fibre appearance,

up to 24 hours. At two percent in a rinse-off formulation, the

benchmarks (see Figure 4).


ingredient is more efficient than dimethicone for frizz

seeking for silicone oil alternatives and for

conducted by professional

rinse off or leave on products.

hairdressers on 15

African women are looking volunteers. Emosmart V21 for an alternative to relaxers to curly hair after only one (two percent) wear their hair naturally curly. Less application. Emosmart demonstrated an harsh styling alternatives such as V21 also shows a ability to replace two perms, dry curls, blow outs and afros are also on the rise as 34 percent reduction of percent silicone oil natural hair becomes the frizz effect after 24 hours (dimethicone) in a rinse off mainstream. and volume control on

(see Figure 3).

formulation. The formulation

Because combing is also a

it is the solution the hair care industry is

A use test was also

with Emosmart V21 was selected

Mixture of sugars The second ingredient, Xylishine is dedicated to shine, moisture and repair. It recently won the award for the best hydrating/moisturising active ingredient at PCHi 2018 in Shanghai. Xylishine is a mixture of sugars from plant based and marine origins. The marine sugars come

key step in managing African hair,

by the professionals as their favourite

from an alga, the channelled wrack,

the ingredient was also tested for wet

product and the one they would

and have the ability to retain water and

combing performance in comparison

prefer to use in their hair salon. They

resist desiccation. The vegetable sugars

to dimethicone and mineral oil.

evaluated Emosmart V21 to be as

are sourced from wood and based on

Emosmart V21 (used at two percent

good as dimethicone in improving hair

xylitol. The combination of marine and

in a rinse-off formulation) decreases

appearance and touch.

plant based sugars targets the control

• Contract manufacture of bath/body/beauty/anti-ageing products • We have no brands of our own and therefore do not compete with our customers • Offer a turnkey operation from concept to launch of all products • Formulation development for local and international markets • Perform stability/micro testing for all products • Source new packaging locally and internationally • Sun protection

Tel: +27 (0)12 803 7999/+27 (0)12 803 0761/+27 (0)83 285 8830 Email: |

Serendipity.indd 1

2018/04/05 12:07 PM

P C Review | MAY 2018 |



Figure 6: Xylishine deep moisturising properties in leave on or rinse off applications

Figure 7: Xylishine hair shine and curl definition in vivo after one leave on application

Percentage of deep moisture reserves within hair

After 1 leave on application


vs damaged hair


6.62 7.33



vs damaged hair

vs placebo


+16%* vs placebo


*p<0.05 vs placebo **p<0.01


Healthy hair

Damaged hair

Damaged hair + 1 leave on 3% Xylishine

Damaged hair + 10 leave on 3% Xylishine

of the water balance in order to increase



*p<0.05 vs placebo

Hair shine

Curl definition



An in vivo test was then carried out using

Xylishine and Emosmart V21 can be

hair shine. Indeed, mechanical and/

professional hairdressers. Seppic tested a

used in rinse off and leave on formulations.

or chemical damage to hair induces

leave-on formulation with three percent

These ingredients are especially well

disturbances, which leads to dry and

Xylishine on curly hair and evaluated

designed for treating and meeting

brittle hair and frizz (see Figure 5). Seppic

shine and curl definition. Hair shine was

the needs of curly hair. Both products

performed several tests to evaluate the

improved by seven percent in comparison

are available in South Africa from CJP

efficacy of Xylishine on different hair types

to a placebo, whereas curl definition was

Chemicals and can be used together or

and in different applications.

improved by 16 percent versus placebo

in combination with other emollients to

(see Figure 7).

achieve top performing formulations and

In a first step, the active ingredient was tested at three percent on tresses

These results prove Xylishine offers a

to measure the deep moisturisation of

natural solution to moisture and enhance

hair. Results exhibited an increase in the

the visual aspect of curly hair. These

deep moisture reserves by 30 percent

criteria are especially interesting for

on damaged hair as of healthy hair with

consumers who choose to wear their hair

a single leave on application, and an

naturally curly.

increase of nine percent on damaged

Based on natural sugars, Xylishine

hair after 10 rinse off applications (see

is readily biodegradable and easy to

Figure 6). In parallel, an additional test on

formulate. Thanks to its efficacy to control

tresses demonstrated a repairing effect

water balance, the active ingredient is

with 27 percent smoothed cuticles after just

an ideal solution to provide shine and

one application.

moisture to fragile, dry and brittle hair.

consumer desirable end products. •

REFERENCES: •C  élia F. Cruz et al. Human hair and the impact of cosmetic procedures: a review on cleansing and shape-modulating cosmetics. Cosmetics. 2016,3,26. • P hilip Kingsley, The hair bible, 2012 • w report

CJP Chemicals – Seppic –

100 % pure organic

Moringa Oil


oringa is known as the ‘Miracle Tree’ due to its impressive range of uses. Moringa oil contains important minerals and is an excellent source of protein, vitamins, amino acids and fatty acids (Omega 6 & 9). Botanica’s Moringa trees grow in Limpopo and the oil is produced on site. Moringa oil has well-known cosmetic value and is widely used in hair care formulations.

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Moisturises the scalp

Strengthens hair

Promotes hair growth

Possible applications: Shampoo, hair conditioning, scalp moisturising & beard oil.


| MAY 2018 | P C Review


Real insights drive relevant solutions for natural hair Croda South Africa’s drive to provide the right solutions for natural African hair is constantly being enriched. The company hosted a natural hair care bloggers lunch on 10 February to learn more about what it takes to care for textured and curly hair.

only after the natural hair movement started, where these bloggers saw pictures of ladies embracing their natural hair, that they realised their hair can actually look the same.’ McCallum is active on social media and follows hundreds of bloggers on Instagram. ‘These women are empowering themselves with the knowledge needed to help other ladies who want to grow their natural hair.’ So 15 bloggers joined a small team of four Croda South Africa employees at Punchinello’s Mediterranean Restaurant at the Southern Sun Monte Casino in Johannesburg to discusses their needs and the challenges they face in growing and maintaining curly and textured natural African hair.

Educate and empower Conversations around natural hair started about three years ago and have gained immense momentum in the market. Croda is following this movement with

Some of South Africa’s most influential natural hair care bloggers with employees from Croda SA


a large amount of effective ingredients it could offer t was marketing manager, Chantal McCallum’s idea to engage with these women who face real and recent struggles with their hair. ‘I am constantly looking for new ways to learn as much

as I can from these amazing African women. It’s only in the last few years that they have experimented with natural hair, and with the controversial history surrounding African hair, consumers have struggled to find a reliable ‘go to’ that understands what it takes to look after natural hair,’ she explains. ‘It was

HARD FACTS ON MULTICULTURAL HAIR CARE 1500s African women are stripped of their identities.

1880s Hard combs are introduced to the market.


1800s They are denied access to hair care supplies.

1900s Hair growth products are launched.

George E Johnson launches Johnson Products, focusing on the African American male hair care market.

1980s The jheri curl becomes a popular hair style.

2010 The natural movement makes a global comeback.

and healthy natural hair. ‘Our goal is for Croda to be known as the company that truly cares about natural hair. Croda is passionate about consumer education and empowering African women in their hair care needs,’ comments McCallum. Like any blogger, African hair care bloggers are product junkies. They own so many products and review them as they hit the shelves. Because of their knowledge and influence, their followers are eager to buy and try the products they review. McCallum says Joan from Jems of a Natural (www. is a key influencer who is very active at all the natural hair networking events. ‘These hair meet ups happen often; organisers rent a venue, invite all interested parties from brands to bloggers and the public to talk everything hair,’ she explains. ‘Joan is an amazing lady. She is an executive PA and blogs during her spare time to empower women.’ Joan’s blog says she is a healthy hair enthusiast – intrigued, inspired, encouraged and in love with


awareness and the influx of natural hair products

South Africa witnesses the Black

in South Africa and Africa as a whole. ‘Curls are

Consciousness Movement.

beautiful. Rock that fro’, says Joan on her blog.


its education. ‘It’s so important to help these ladies

Poetic Justice makes it big at the box office.

achieve their hair care goals and educate them as

2015 natural movement.

| MAY 2018 | P C Review

that help African women achieve more manageable

hair. She is excited by the increase of natural hair

Africa follows global trends embracing the


manufacturers to produce good quality products

If there’s one thing McCallum is fanatical about

we go along,’ she concludes. •

Croda South Africa –


May 2018 | Volume 44 | Number 5

d r a pe o a of b h r s e e s p r g d a u n P ren fut agi t he ck t pa

Cold chain solutions maintain product integrity

Sappi completes

CPG acquisition


Create magic with packaging SOUTH AFRICA HAS been using recovered paper and board as an alternative fibre in papermaking since 1920. Although our country recycles around 68.4 percent of paper, cardboard and cartons, less than 10 percent of offices and businesses recycle their used paper products. The Paper Recycling Association of South Africa confirms that the annual paper recovery rate has sustained two percent year on year growth since 2012 and was at 68.4 percent last year. This surpasses the global average of 58 percent.

Reliable labellers for pharma packs

The flexibility of folding cartons allows you to design curves and create innovative packaging that differentiates your products from competitor brands. In the words of Marcel Heinze, key account manager for sales of premium packaging at Edelmann, ‘the art of packaging development is one that creates magic through additional nuances and technical features at every glance’. The technical challenge lies in creating a design that appears simple but is actually quite complex. Choosing paperboard not only provides more options for creating unique structural designs but is also a cost saving option. Don’t miss this month’s focus on new developments and trends in carton and board packaging on page 44. Enjoy the read! Assistant Editor

POSITIONED TO SERVE THE SA MARKET FULL SERVICE SUPPLIER of glass, plastic, metal containers and closures, Berlin Packaging and Bruni Glass recently announced the completion of the acquisition

The vial and bottle labeller

of England-based packaging equipment supplier, Erben. Erben brings its dedicated operations to South Africa and California

LSS LABELLING SYSTEMS (LSS) will showcase its

with its capsules business and operates for

solutions at Achema, taking place in Germany from

convenience quantities.

11 to 15 June. The company will present machines

Berlin Packaging is a US$2.6 billion global supplier of rigid packaging products

for tamper evident and vial and bottle labelling. There

and services to all types of customers across all sectors. The company has a

will be a press demonstration in Hall one on 12 June

stronghold in North America, where it has operated since 1898. Its European

between 10:30 and 11:30.

headquarters are in Milan, Italy. Berlin acquired Bruni Glass, a supplier of premium and speciality glass containers and accessories in 2016. ‘For more than 10 years, Erben has had a full service team in Cape Town,

LSS is a subsidiary of Germany-based Logopak. The company has developed a standard vial and bottle labeller and tamper evident labeller. These machines are designed with high attention to simple and safe

supplying quality packaging containers and closures. We see significant

operation, precision in labelling and safe and secure

opportunities to expand in South Africa and beyond,’ says Jeremy Lagomarsino,

product handling. Easy function overview, inspection

executive VP of business development and strategy at Berlin Packaging.

and control, easy line clearance and ergonomics are

Since the completion of the Erben acquisition, the company has a combination of offices spread throughout Europe, Italy, France, Spain, UK, China, North America and South Africa. ‘MD Sasha Erben leads an extraordinary company that not only shares our

also significant features of both labellers. As of February 2019, the European Falsified Medicines Directive (FMD) 2011/62/EU will be mandatory for the pharma industry within the EU. The

focus on quality, service and results for customers, but also has a culture that

new tamper evident labeller from LSS complies with

delights in serving and growing powerfully in the marketplace. Adding the

the directive and ensures tamper proof security of

company to the Berlin enterprise shows our commitment to acquire the best

cartons. As an option, a laser or inkjet printer and a

businesses in the packaging industry along with our proven approach to organic

vision system of any brand can be integrated to provide

growth,’ says Andrew Berlin, chairman and CEO of Berlin Packaging.

each carton with a unique identification for track and trace and serialisation. The machine is operated with a

Roberto Del Bon, owner of Bruni Glass; Sasha Erben, MD at Erben; Andrew Berlin, CEO at Berlin Packaging and Gino Del Bon, executive chairman of Bruni Glass

user friendly HMI. The flexible solution handles cartons ranging from 50 to 220mm in width, 15 to 120mm in height and 40 to 120mm in length. A small footprint allows the machine to fit into any production area. The vial and bottle labeller can be used for labelling a variety of smaller cylindrical products made of glass or plastic with a product diameter between 14 and 35mm and a minimum height of 30mm. The machine labels up to 250 vials or bottles per minute. It runs as an off-line or in-line unit. Its vision inspection of both the label and vial, or bottle ensures maximum safety.


| MAY 2018 | Packaging Review


SAPPI ACQUIRES CHAM PAPER GROUP MARCHESINI TO ESTABLISH NEW BEAUTY DIVISION THE GROUP WILL soon establish a new facility dedicated to the beauty industry near its headquarters in Pianoro, Italy to serve the growing global cosmetics packaging market. Marchesini continues to focus on the cosmetics industry


serving as platform for

that all conditions precedent relating

organic growth and

to the procurement of the speciality

The acquisition will add

Group (CPG) have been fulfilled

€183 million of sales

and completed.

and approximately

The transaction includes the

€20 million of earnings

acquisition of CPG’s Carmignano

before interest, taxes,

and Condino Mills in Italy, its digital

depreciation and

imaging business located in Cham,

amortisation before

Switzerland and all brands and

taking into account synergies. It

know- how.

also builds on investments currently

The deal brings with it many

Steve Binn


underway to increase specialities and

benefits, including:

packaging papers capacity at Sappi’s

• support for Sappi’s diversification

Somerset, Maastricht and Alfeld Mills,

with internal and external lines. One of the newest entries

strategy and Vision2020 goal

to the organisation is Dumek. This small family run business

to expand in higher margin

in Bologna, Italy, specialises in designing and building

growth segments

cosmetics processing machinery.

further acquisitions.

paper business of Cham Paper

• strengthening Sappi Europe’s

and unlocksgrowth potential for CPG. ‘I am very pleased that we have been able to finalise this acquisition so quickly. We are now able to move

specialities and packaging papers

with speed to combine Cham’s strong

produce emulsions (creams and milks), serums, oils and

footprint and skills with an added

brands, employees and assets with

balms, gels and lotions are further completing the range of

160 000t of speciality paper

Sappi’s global presence. Our existing

Dumek’s vacuum turbo emulsifiers and melters used to

machines of the Marchesini Group at its new beauty division.

• increasing Sappi’s relevance in

and new customers will benefit from

This division is expected to take the company’s cosmetics

specialities and packaging papers,

a broader range of products coupled

share of the total turnover from six to 20 percent.

opening up new customers and

with our well-established excellent

markets to its existing products and

customer service. This transaction

growing with remarkably flexible stand-alone solutions, which

generating economies of scale

strengthens Sappi’s specialities and

are not only perfect for the market but also commercially

and synergies

packaging papers business both in

The group’s cosmetics packaging production area is

competitive. Some of its machines are designed specifically for the cosmetics packaging industry. These technologies were showcased at Cosmopack in

• gaining greater ‘share of wallet’ with valued brand owners • accelerating innovation and new product development

Bologna from 15 to 18 March. MGSA consulting is the Marchesini agent in South Africa.

• improved near term profitability and

Waste disposal shortcuts add to environmental challenges The Vlakfontein landfill


Europe and globally, improves our profitability and is another significant milestone towards realizing our Vision2020 goal,’ says Steve Binnie, CEO of Sappi.

‘Reputable waste management companies often

countries that operate within

guide their clients on ways to reduce waste. We

a regenerative system referred

develop strategies to divert significant portions of

to as a circular economy,

waste away from landfills. This includes a rebate

South Africa only recycles 10

system to incentivise recycling. When disposal

percent of its waste. Due to

is necessary, reputable providers can be trusted

several factors, our country

to ensure this is managed responsibly,’ says Reg

still employs a predominantly

Gerber, the national landfill manager at Averda

linear or ‘take-make-dispose’

South Africa.

approach. Considering that

When consumers employ unlicensed or non-

most waste is destined for landfills, the promotion

compliant providers, they have no control over where

of responsible disposal practices remains crucial

waste ends up.

for environmental sustainability. According to

Mismanaged landfills and dumps present

Averda, a waste management provider in South

a number of risks including air pollution and

Africa, under pricing in the industry is a significant

groundwater contamination. When rain falls on

barrier to the development of green waste

landfill sites, the organic and inorganic constituents

management solutions. This is compounded by

are dissolved, forming a leachate, which can

a high number of unlicensed or non-compliant

contain toxic metals such as ammonia, organic

waste handlers who undercut prices by skirting

compounds and pathogens. Any leakage can result

legislative requirements.

in groundwater contamination.

Packaging Review | MAY 2018 |



Algro Design SBB hits all the right notes

Do you want the ultimate board providing printing precision, outstanding optical results and increased shelf impact? Look no further than Sappi’s solid bleached board as an ideal solution.


ts Algro Design is a one side double-

Algro Design was used for Lumene’s Wheel of Light line cosmetics packaging

coated solid bleached board (SBB) with a remarkable silky touch that’s perfect for

lamination on solid and corrugated boards. It has no washboarding effect, sports a fresh and clean look, high resistance to ageing and comprises cartonboard bulk and stiffness compared to other liners. A recent ProCarton ECMA Awards finalist, the packaging for Lumene’s Wheel of Light line cosmetics is a concept developed by Edelmann and a British design team. Lumene is a Finnish skin care and cosmetics brand. The goal of the packaging was to emphasise a brand story highlighting the exceptional pure nature and yearly light cycle of the Scandinavian landscape with special visual and physical features. to the Nordic clean nature, pure arctic

The Algro Design provides excellent

selected for the cartons. The surface

water and extraordinary light from the

printability and runnability, good drying

characteristics and excellent converting

midnight sun during summer months.

conditions, maximum processing

Sappi’s Algro Design was the material

capabilities of the SBB perfectly

‘For Nordic people, light is absolutely

efficiency, superior whiteness and high UV

represented the Nordic values of purity,

vital, giving us strength for the long and

light fastness. Suitable for offset, screen

simplicity and authenticity. The result was a

dark winters. This sensation of being

and flexo printing, it has excellent shaping,

powerful and coherent design concept for

bathed in sunlight is what we would like

print and converting properties.

all Wheel of Light packs.

the customer to feel when she discovers

Its end uses are lamination to

Lumene products on the shelf. The white

corrugated and solid board for the


carton from Sappi represents our Nordic

manufacturing of display-POS material,

Marcel Heinze, key account manager for

way of life of purity and authenticity,’ says

promotional material, gift boxes, folding

sales of premium packaging at Edelmann

Kristina Enqvist, packaging development

boxes, graphic applications and high-

says the art of packaging development

director at Lumene.

quality packaging.

additional nuances and technical


intensive investment programme to enable

features at every glance.

The Edelmann team designed a total

the company to produce speciality papers

of seven different types of packaging in

and boards in an even larger quantity. Its

creating a design that appears

different sizes and versions for Lumene.

innovative product line is distinguished

simple, but is actually quite complex.

These included folding cartons with

by consistent high quality owing to its

The clever micro embossing on every

internal chambers, trays, gift packages,

holistic knowledge of paper production,

Lumene pack reflects brilliant natural

integrated height compensation for

the constant development of individual

light, varying with the angle of view.

the bottom and lid, and much more.

recipes and state of the art technology of

This creates a natural, noble and

Sappi’s Algro Design in weights of 350

its papermaking machines. The company’s

high quality effect appealing to the

and 380g/m2 were used. Each box is

coated and uncoated speciality papers

observer’s senses and one that could

printed on both sides in five to eight

as well as the SBB are highly regarded due

only be achieved with the pure, bright

colours using offset printing. The exterior

to their unique surface. These surfaces

white surface of Algro Design.

sides were finished with a matte/gloss

guarantee excellent and highly efficient

effect, embossed foil printing with micro

processing, finishing and printing. •

Sappi has in recent years carried out an

is one that creates magic through

The technical challenge lies in

The idea behind the new branding carton boxes for Lumene is to pay tribute

embossing and blind embossing.

Sappi –


| MAY 2018 | Packaging Review

The ideal cosmetic packaging solution Sappiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Paperboard is your complete solution for premium packaging and graphic applications in the cosmetic industry. Recognised for superior whiteness and a remarkable silky touch, Algro Design offers brand owners brilliant colour reproduction, increased shelf impact and unique brand differentiation. Manufactured from a renewable resource, our packaging papers are recyclable and certified with international environmental certification bodies. For more information on our market-leading packaging papers, please visit



shaping beauty packaging PACKAGING REVIEW digs into key elements shaping the future of personal care packaging.


rand owners and consumers alike are in search of packaging presenting functionality, strong

brand identity opportunities, small pack sizes, innovative design with unique features and reduced use of resources using a clever design. Paperboards make eye-catching and prestigious packaging stiff without adding weight. They are especially suitable for

Metsä Board’s paperboard for cosmetics

special effects such as hot foil stamping, foil lamination, embossing and protecting

and anti-pollution. Packaging should

the go. There is also a greater need for

the product inside. Fresh fibres are

therefore support health-inspired

beauty and personal care products

naturally pure and clean, and boards

brand identity and consumers’

that are easy to carry in a handbag

made from them also have excellent taint

informational needs.

or through airport security control.

and odour properties.

2. S ustainability – a growing demand for more naturally derived ingredients

Functionality requires clever packaging design and smaller pack sizes.


in products as well as for product

Metsä Board understands trends and

safety, traceability and friendliness to

intelligent packaging can be used

global factors affecting the beauty and

the environment. Products based on

to improve the brand experience.

personal care market, which is forecast to

natural wood fibres offer

grow at a rate of five percent to 2021. The

excellent alternatives to

company outlines the following trends:

more carbon intensive

1. Wellness – a more holistic approach

products. Traceability of all

to healthy living, beauty, nutrition,

raw materials is essential in

exercise, mental wellbeing and lifestyle

ensuring product safety.

are seen as an entity. Wellness-focused

3. Conscious consumers

priorities impact consumers’ beauty

appreciate ethical,

routines and product choices such

trustworthy brands –

as free from, natural, organic, detox

sustainability in packaging increases the need for innovative designs and

5. Digitalisation – mobile apps and

These include apps

Mobile apps and intelligent packaging can be used to improve the brand experience

the use of renewable, recyclable, biodegradable, reusable,

recommending the perfect shade for each skin tone or technologies ensuring authenticity of the product. Connected packaging can act as an interface between the consumer and the product, offering a pathway to augmented reality with videos and further information about the product.

6. Micro-moments – packaging that

certified and lightweight materials.

is well-designed, fit-for-purpose and

Producing lighter paperboard requires

surprising, delights consumers. It gives

lower quantities of raw materials for the

immediate gratification. Packaging

same application. Lighter packaging

can respond to these needs with

means reduced environmental impacts

personalisation and wow-elements.

as they consume less energy, water and

The South African agent for Metsä Board is

raw materials.

Paper Force. •

4. Functionality – busy lifestyles have changed consumers’ habits. They now look for products that offer ease of dispensing and can be applied on


| MAY 2018 | Packaging Review

Metsä Board –


Protect your payload Don’t let minor temperature excursions or factors compromise the integrity of your products. Invest in high quality cold chain packaging that will protect your cargo from bad weather, jostling and unpredictable situations. Aarifah Nosarka explores the latest available solutions.


old chain packaging plays a critical role in the global

Sealed Air’s insulating box liner solution

delivery and transportation

of temperature sensitive products for the pharmaceutical and biotech industries. Sealed Air, a secondary packaging provider, ensures the safe and secure distribution of temperature sensitive pharmaceuticals, chemicals, and perishables. The company supplies protective solutions that insulate against temperature changes, control vibration, optimise cube, reduce void fill and minimise freight costs. There are multiple assurance solutions available. Among these are Kevothermal vacuum insulated panels and TempGuard insulated carton liners.


to EPS and PU. These are often used

Conventional thermal insulating


materials contain expanded

Kevothermal insulation vacuum

polystyrene (EPS),

panels use patented technology to

polyurethane (PU)

achieve previously unattained levels

and foil laminated

of commercial thermal insulation.

foam or inflatable

Kevothermal insulation begins as a

plastic bubble.

nanoporous powder, which is pressed

EPS has a thermal

for the same day, two to six hour


delivery windows. The Kevothermal material offers a thermal

A higher R-value of cold packs mean there is a higher thermal insulation performance of the materials.

conductivity of 0.0036W/ mK with 40 R-value per inch or centimetre. So, for the same amount

into a board of the desired thickness. It is

conductivity in the range

cut to size, encapsulated in a protective

of 0.035 to 0.045W/mK with

barrier film and vacuum sealed, which

three to four R-value per inch

creates a vacuum insulation panel.

or centimetre. With the use of

Its thinner wall construction allows for

gel packs, EPS boxes can offer one to

times more efficient than a PU thermal

smaller cube sizes and reduced weights,

two days of temperature assurance

shipper. Kevothermal insulation can

resulting in lower freight costs without

between two to eight degrees

be used for long haul shipping of

compromising performance. The panel

Celsius. PU is more efficient than EPS,

pharmaceuticals for up to seven days

sizes are custom manufactured to suit

which offers thermal conductivity

or more and during extreme weather

specific customer requirements. A silver or

in the range of 0.022 to 0.024W/mK

conditions when paired with the

white outer plastic film covers the panels

with four to seven R-value per inch

correct refrigerants.

providing a water and oxygen barrier

or centimetre.

resistant to handling and abrasion. It is also easy to clean. Standard boxes can be supplied fully assembled with an inner

PU boxes can offer between three to five days’ temperature assurance. Foil laminated foam or inflated

of gel packs used, a Kevothermal shipper is approximately 10 times more

efficient than EPS. It is also six

A RECYCLABLE ALTERNATIVE TempGuard is an insulated, curbside insulative material developed for

and outer carton, or provided flat for

bubble packs exhibit lower thermal

shipping temperature sensitive goods.

customer assembly.

insulation performances compared

It fits securely inside corrugated boxes

Packaging Review | MAY 2018 |



va-Q-tec’s thermal containers

recyclability, it is an ideal choice for last and other containers and offers product

mile shipments.

protection during transit. The product’s thermal insulation is


constructed from heavy-duty kraft paper

Va-Q-tec, a developer, manufacturer

containing a uniform inner padding.

and provider of thermal insulation panels

It is highly customisable and can be

recently received an important and

optimised through thermal modelling

wide reaching European patent for its

to meet the needs of one and two day

passive pallet size containers with vacuum

shipping. It has been tested to meet

insulation panels (VIPs) and phase

International Safe Transit Association

change materials (PCMs).

7E certification standards to ensure contents maintain proper temperatures. It works with refrigerants ranging from gel packs to phase change materials. TempGuard’s inner padding consists of fibrous material. Tiny pores between cellulose fibres are too small to support heat convection so the overall heat transfer rate is reduced significantly. This makes the material a good insulator.

The innovative high performance packaging from va-Qtec sets new quality benchmarks in pharma logistics VIPs and PCMs are used for reliable

addition to its insulative properties, the

and energy efficient insulation and

solution’s padding cushions all items

temperature control, especially for

to minimise damage during handling

temperature sensitive freight and long

and transit. Owing to its 100 percent

haul transportation in passive containers. The European Patent EP 2 876 389 B1

UNDERSTAND THE COLD CHAIN COLD CHAIN REFERS to a subset of the total supply chain involving the production, storage and distribution of products that require some level of temperature control in order to retain their key characteristics and associated value. The term cold chain originates from the terminology for the ‘chain of custody’ in the production, packaging, distribution and control of temperature sensitive products. This includes the traditional areas of supply chain, to include raw material acquisition, transformation and manufacturing process, packaging and product protection, storage and distribution. Source:

is valid in Germany, UK, France, Italy, Liechtenstein and Switzerland and covers the va-Q-tainer product series. All va-Q-tainers enable the transportation of temperature sensitive goods in compliance with international regulations primarily for the pharma and biotech industry. These containers ensure temperature stability for more than five days. There is no requirement of external energy sources, irrespective of the climate zone and season in which transportation occurs. The company’s container technology can maintain temperatures for up to 10 days or more in moderate climate conditions. ‘The patent we have now received reflects the strength of our patent


| MAY 2018 | Packaging Review

industrial property rights. It confirms our expertise and technical USP in the passive container area as well as protects our company’s value,’ says Dr Joachim Kuhn, founder and CEO of va-Q-tec. According to Dr Roland Caps, also a founder and head of R&D at vaQ-tec, says the patent comprises an overall technical concept for passive thermal containers. ‘Without this patent, it is barely possible to produce an economically and technically functional high performance container. This patent also highlights the massive performance advantage of our solution compared to active (c. Factor 3) and other passive (c. Factor 2) containers, which do not use the now patented technology.’

It has an R-value of 3.7 per inch or centimetre, which is at parity to EPS. In

portfolio comprising more than 120

Based on its VIP and PCM technology, va-Q-tec has designed the va-Qtainer product series to include four container sizes. The market for temperature controlled transportation is highly regulated and complies with international Good Distribution Practice (GDP) standards. The innovative high performance packaging from va-Q-tec ensures seamless cold chain conformity and sets new quality benchmarks in pharma and temp chain logistics. ‘Imitators and competitors will now have to survive without some important thermal and mechanical functions,’ adds Dr Kuhn. ‘The competition seems to be interested in the now legally protected technology and the highly energy efficient containers, which are produced from it. We detected competitors are offering patent infringing products. Obviously, we will take further steps to defend our technology,’ he concludes. •

Sealed Air – Va-Q-tec –



biodegradability testing and claims Coschem’s lecture evening on 11 April provided insight into biodegradability testing and claims. The presenter was Heidi Duveskog, director of Contextualize.


It is necessary to influence and ensure that regulatory agencies take a harsher look at how products are marketed


globally. South Africa does not have a biodegradability testing standard at the moment and most of the claims made locally are based on tests done abroad. Formulations are generally qualified based on certification of the raw material components used. However, the fact that the individual components are biodegradable does not guarantee


that the final product will be biodegradable.

KNOW THE LIMITS The complexity of biodegradability testing was also considered in terms of the factors influencing tests and outcomes like the chemical characteristics, solubility and product


microbial preservation. A product claim he aim of the talk was to give an

based on one biodegradation test standard

overview of what biodegradability

can only be related to that specific level of

means in terms of its definition and

biodegradability. For example, if a product


B ridget MacDonald of Coschem, Heidi Duveskog of Contextualize and Liezanne van der Walt of Juniperberry Cosmetics


Verushka Moodley of Protea Chemicals, Kim MacCallum of Vantage Specialty Chemicals and Bernies Maebana of Protea Chemicals


Frankie Luke of Evonik, Angelika Sachman of Dabur South Africa, Conny Oberrautor of CIO Consulting and Lyn Wilson of Amka Products

testing. Simply put biodegradability means:

is readily biodegradable according to

‘to be consumed by micro-organisms and

OECD 301B, you cannot extrapolate the

to return to compounds found in nature’.

claim to another test standard, such as

Just because a product is naturally derived,

OECD 302B. The same claims cannot

it doesn’t mean that it is biodegradable.

be made due to the differences in how

it is important to consider the type of

Buzzwords like ‘bio-based’, ‘environmentally

the methods are designed to measure

biodegradability needed, whether toxicity

friendly’ and ‘green’ are used to suggest

biodegradation. There is good agreement

is a concern and if there are specific

a material produced from a plant,

between the standard test methods (OECD,

regulatory requirements to be met. •

animal or vegetable resource will more

ASTM and ISO methods); the methods are

easily biodegrade when disposed of in

simply adapted by the

nature than synthetic materials. This is not

relevant regulatory agency

necessarily true.

for specific applications.

More events in May

Current regulations


require biodegradability

Don’t miss out on Coschem’s events

Due to the proliferation of green marketing

claims to be based on

and networking opportunities in May.

claims, knowing the various biodegradable

aerobic biodegradation,

The society is hosting its Skin Care

tests and certifications has become

which typically measures

Supplier Day on 16 May at its offices

important to brand owners, suppliers and

oxygen consumption,

in Randpark Ridge, Johannesburg. On

manufacturers in the cosmetics industry.

CO2 production and the

22 May, Coschem will host its 22nd golf

Duveskog discussed their usefulness in

state of inorganic carbon

day at Zwartkops Country Club in

positioning products more effectively in

intermediates. Before

Pretoria. Send an e-mail to bridget@

the market and to understand competitor

making a claim about a for more information.

claims better.

product’s performance,

P C Review | MAY 2018 |


Teatime ent to yourse mom lf a a nd ke a en T jo y


Anita Raath Sales executive

m ing

+27 (0)82 976 6541

: e in Carla Melless Sales executive

+27 (0)83 260 6060

Candida Giambo-Kruger Sales executive


+27 (0)71 438 1918



Botanica Natural




Carst & Walker.........................................


Professional Gas Piping Services..........

Chemgrit Cosmetics..................................8.........www.chemgritcosmetics.coa





Savannah Fine Chemicals.................. 19,



CLR Chemisches



Vantage Speciality




| JANUARY 2018 | P C Review




Supplier of cosmetic and personal care ingredients.

Visitors to the Society of

Ingredients include; Bioferments, Botanical Extracts, Delivery

Cosmetic Chemists’ website will

Systems, Enzymes, Functional Actives, Silicones, Emollients,

find information on membership,

Emulsifiers, Meadowfoam Seed Oil & Derivatives, Abyssinian and

educational programmes

other Oils, Shea and other Butters, Aliphatic Hydrocarbons, Lanolin

(specific details pertaining to the

& Derivatives

Cosmetic Science Diploma), as well as the society’s objectives

Tel: 010 595 9690 Email:

of promoting professionalism and higher technical skills in the cosmetics and toiletries industries.

COSMETIC INGREDIENTS Ingredients include: African oils I Hyaluronic acid I Treated pigments I Treated inorganic sunscreens I Encapsulated organic sunscreens I Plant

Glass distributors & importers of specialist glass bottles and

and animal proteins and specialised protein derivatives I Brown

closures. We are official distributors for Consol Glass. Dalgen is

seaweed I Natural actives and rheology modifiers I Anti-dandruff

your one stop packaging shop, specialising in pharmaceutical &

agents I Concentrates

cosmetic containers. We are able to service all areas in Africa.

Tel +27 (0)31 569 4288 Fax +27 (0)31 569 4294 Email or



For over 40 years Formpak has supplied specialised processing,

The largest independent producer in the world of

packaging and printing machinery to the pharmaceutical, cosmetic, plastic, glass, chemical, food and dairy industries.

Tel +27 (0)11 828 8870/1/2 Fax +27 (0)11 828 8880 Email or

core and specialty silicones, BRB offers a wide range of solutions with unique benefits in skin, body and hair care and colour cosmetics.



Look Good Feel Better, a global cosmetic industry programme

Your No. 1 industry leader

offers support to cancer patients focusing on emotional and social

for the most comprehensive

needs and well being.

ranges of both synthetic and

At 2 hour interactive workshops held in oncology units across

natural colours – used in food,

SA, cosmetics are used as tools

pharmaceutical, cosmetic and

to address visible side effects of

industrial applications.

treatment to assist patients to restore

Tablet coatings – manufactured,

self-esteem and face the world

supplied and marketed globally

with confidence.

under our trade name PHARMASPEC™ - FC

“ Hair Aficionados Curly & coily. Wild & manageable. Shiny & sleek. Hair has its own individual personality. Understanding multi-ethnic hair, developing tailored scent and care concepts, that’s how we’re offering just the right formula for every individuals crown and glory. We interweave our knowledge about hairy trends and type-specific hair care with our deep hair expertise and are thus facilitating permanently gorgeous and healthy hair.

Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review May 2018  

This magazine explores innovative active ingredients based on the skin microbiome and for anti-ageing. Highlights from in-cosmetics Global 2...

Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review May 2018  

This magazine explores innovative active ingredients based on the skin microbiome and for anti-ageing. Highlights from in-cosmetics Global 2...