Page 1


March 2018 | Volume 45 | Number 3

launches Ross & Foxwell to empower fragrance



Why they are good for your business A sense of what’s next in fragrances Science elevates good skin care

“ SKIN CHARMER Urbanite & countryside princess. Care & protection. From the pot and the tube. Everyone wants the same thing – to feel comfortable in their own skin and to look radiant. How to find the right ingredient for every type of skin and care? Look for solutions in nature, leverage knowledge responsibly and take natural treasures and transform them into products for everyone. We blend consumer demands with innovative research, creating true beauty for everyone and long-term protection inside and out.


The direct selling effect – how fragrances are changing lives


March 2018 | Volume 45 | Number 2

w w za



Southern Cross Botanicals joins forces with Unicare

Symrise launches new warming ingredient

GlobalData predicts Merck to lead in pharma R&D colabs


ON THE WEB WITH P&C New skin microbiome research from Givaudan Active Beauty


What’s new in South Africa


Industry finds

new direction

What’s hot at in-cosmetics Global?


Meet the team at Quintessence Collections

Wrapsa reveals why it’s a preferred contractor

Get closer to natural skin care with Remancos

Grow successful brands with Zinplex Cosmeceutical

Cunningpac focuses on sustainable formulations

Sachet Manufacturers launches a facility in Joburg

centred on access and care




Access and care drive a new direction for pharma

The P&C Review/Coschem 2017 Essay Prize Winner


Sustainability and fine fragrance trends in focus

Sozio’s perfumers dress up ingredients for success

Mane South Africa invests in local market potential

44 Print and apply

systems in focus



Natural botanical enzyme for mild exfoliation

Next-level sensory ingredients from Evonik | Volum March 2018

e 44 | Number


IEW V E R g n i g a k c a P


ww w.pharm

recycle metal cans

Advantages of print and apply labelling

Automate processes with Marchesini


Automationf at the end o the line

Do your bit to

44 End-of-Line Packaging

d standAutomated an -line alone end-of


The latest developments at Coschem

P C Review | MARCH 2018 |



From the editor

What’s your strategy

for success? T he capital outlay to manufacture

suppliers that continue to invest in the

a product or range, be it

African market.

pharmaceutical, cosmetic or even a complementary medicine, is

Inside this edition you’ll also find an

interesting skin care read on a natural

substantial. Often brand owners need to

exfoliation enzyme (page 38), which is

plug this capital into marketing, branding

more effective than mechanical exfoliation

and retail listings, leaving little cash to cover

but less harsh than AHAs and BHAs.

production, machinery and labour costs.

The winning article in this year’s

This is where contract manufacturers come

P C Review/Coschem Diploma in

in, sourcing cost-effective and reliable

Cosmetic Science essay competition is

suppliers of raw materials and packaging,

published this month. Turn to page 36 now

offering specialist analytical and R&D

to read Nikita Venter’s take on the growth

capabilities, cost optimisation benefits

of anti-pollution products in the cosmetics

and specialised processing – some even

industry and where opportunities exist

offer logistics and distribution solutions.

within this category in Africa.

Who you choose to outsource your

If you’re looking to improve your

manufacturing to is not only dependent

end-of-line packaging equipment

on your budget but also on their size,

and are weighing up whether to go for

capabilities and GMP compliance.

an integrated or stand-alone system,


Editor: Abby Vorster +27 (0)11 877 6038 Assistant Editor: Aarifah Nosarka +27 (0)11 877 6209 Layout & Design: Kirsty Thomas Contributors: Marie-Eugénie Bouge, Raquel Delgado, Jill Gardiner, Alicia Gimenez, Laia González, Dr Thomas Kowallik, Olga Laporta, Marie Ollagnier, Nikita Venter ADVERTISING Sales Executive: Carla Melless +27 (0)83 260 6060 Sales Executive: Anita Raath +27 (0)82 976 6541 Sales Executive: Candida Giambo-Kruger +27 (0)71 438 1918 INTERNATIONAL SALES Germany/Austria/Switzerland: Eisenacher Medien Erhardt Eisenacher +49 228 249 9860 Italy: Ngcombroker Giacomo Rotunno +39 370 101 4694 Taiwan: Ringier Trade Media Sydney Lai +886 4 2329 7318 CIRCULATION Circulation Manager: Felicity Garbers +27 (0)21 701 1566 PUBLISHING TEAM General Manager: Dev Naidoo

PACKAGING REVIEW can help you.

Publishing Manager: Natalie Da Silva +27 (0)11 877 6281

contractor is right for you, so we’ve taken a

On page 44, we discuss a variety of

Production Controller: Rae Morrison

look at some of the leading pharma and

solutions that are sure to meet your end-

Art Director: David Kyslinger

cosmetics contract manufacturers to help

of-line needs.


It can be tricky to establish which

you make the right choice for your brand.

Please keep in touch with us if you’re

Turn to page 17 now to find out more about

heading to Amsterdam in April for in-

these suppliers.

cosmetics Global and remember to check

Fragrance also plays a major

out our show preview on page 14.

role in your brand’s success. While

New Media Publishing, Ground floor, Media Park, 69 Kingsway Avenue, Auckland Park, 2092 Tel: +27 (0)11 877 6111, Fax: +27 (0)11 877 6198 POSTAL ADDRESS PO Box 784698, Sandton, Johannesburg, 2146 Published on behalf of Media24 by New Media Publishing (PTY) Ltd.

packaging is considered the number

I hope you enjoy reading


one attraction, scent is also central to

this edition!


driving consumer appeal. On page

Bridget McCarney

28, we chat about hot ingredients, fine


fragrance trends, sustainability and the

John Psillos NON-EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR Irna van Zyl


HEAD OFFICE New Media House, 19 Bree Street, Cape Town 8001 Tel: +27 (0)21 417 1111, Fax: +27 (0)21 417 1112 Email: PO Box 440, Green Point, Cape Town 8051


Dr Trevor Baillie

Past-President, Society of Cosmetic Chemists SA

Prof Dr Aubrey Parsons

John Knowlton

CEO of the Generic and Biosimilar Medicines of Southern Africa

Professor Emeritus, Faculty of Health Sciences, Nelson Mandela University

Vivian Frittelli

Prof N T (Raj) Naidoo

P C Review is the official journal of: CTFA - The Cosmetic, Toiletry & Frangrance Association of South Africa GBM - Generic and Biosimilar Medicines of Southern Africa


Consultant, Cosmetic Solutions

| MARCH 2018 | P C Review

COSCHEM - The Society of Cosmetic Chemists of South Africa HPA - The Health Products Association of Southern Africa AMA - The Aerosol Manufacturers’ Association of South Africa

Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review is published by New Media Publishing 11 times a year and circulates to manufacturers, packers and distributors of pharmaceuticals, health products, cosmetics, detergents, soaps, toiletries and allied products. The journal is an up-to-date source of reference for company directors, factory and production managers, marketing executives, engineers, import agents, buyers and research personnel. While precautions have been taken to ensure the accuracy of its contents and information given to readers, neither the editor, publisher, or its agents can accept responsibility for damages or injury which may arise therefrom. All rights reserved. © Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, photocopying, electronic, mechanical or otherwise without the prior written permission of the copyright owners. Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review is printed and bound by CTP Printers - Cape Town. Copyright: all rights reserved. ISSN 0257-8719

New solutions for


Real beauty is on the inside. That is our reason to develop gentle ingredients for the skin to take care of your formulation. Our prime innovative preservative systems from the Nipaguard® range - COSMOS approved - pioneered by the inspiration of long lasting stability and sustainability market needs offers a cost-effective solution with superior performance.

> We prefer to reduce preservatives. Not their effect. <



New agency agreement

for Unicare Ingredients SOUTHERN CROSS BOTANICALS has appointed Unicare Ingredients, a division of Unichem Services, as its official distributor in South Africa. The company forms part of the Lucas Meyer Cosmetics Group, which Unicare has been representing locally for the past four years. Although Lucas Meyer Cosmetics was acquired by IFF in 2016, Unicare’s South African agency status has been maintained. The products from Southern Cross Botanicals are a perfect fit for Unicare’s portfolio of innovative, active and natural ingredients for personal care and cosmetics. With a strong focus on the sustainable use and preservation


of natural resources, Southern Cross Botanicals specialises in developing


ingredients derived exclusively from native Australian plants. The company offers expertise in the fields of botany, agronomy and

THE DEMAND FOR natural ingredients in personal care products is rising.

biology, giving it full control over its production

Consumers are more environmentally conscious than ever before and they

processes from fresh plant biomass to final ingredients.

want safe and effective natural cosmetics. To meet these needs, Alban Muller is committed to natural innovation. The company’s ultra-concentrated CosmePhytami Lemon active provides a safe, paraben-free, cruelty free and glutenfree solution for tonifying and brightening skin. This eco-designed, natural high-tech botanical for cosmetics is produced using a unique manufacturing process called ‘zeodration’. This ecoactive molecules in the extract at five to 10 times more than that of standard the efficacy of the active ingredient and supports claims based on the traditional plant properties.

to foster special partnerships with major players in the global beauty industry. The new distribution agreement between Unicare Ingredients and Southern Cross Botanicals will see its extensive portfolio of active ingredients, complex harvests, vegetable oils, exfoliants,

responsible drying technology maintains the highest concentration of extracts on the market. The consistency of this high concentration ensures

This unique expertise has allowed Southern Cross Botanicals

essential oils and plant extracts made available to the South African cosmetics industry. Local brands and manufacturers will also benefit from the technical support provided by Southern Cross Botanicals.

Cosme-Phytami Lemon is available locally from IMCD South Africa; Alban Muller offers full traceability of the active ingredient from the plant and extract to the finished product.


effects such as redness and stinging,

positive impact on the mood balance

sensory ingredient, creates a feeling

which might occur with VBE. This

upon application at one percent and

like gentle warm sunshine on skin.

innovation also sees Symrise adding to

can easily be associated with feelings

The company developed the active

its portfolio of sensory offerings, which

of well-being and satisfaction.

complex for use in creams, gels and

includes the long-established cooling

balms. The ingredient is characterised

range, Frescolat.

by its pleasant, relaxing and long-

Thermolat can also be used to

being applied on skin. The warming

lasting effects that don’t convey

enhance the perceived efficacy of a

sensation may last up to two hours.

feelings of stinging or burning.

personal care product. Symrise has

The ingredient recently received a BSB

developed a test method to evaluate

Innovation Prize for cosmetics, natural

effect achieved with vanillyl butyl ether

the sensation generated by the topical

products and their basic materials, and

(VBE), Thermolat provides a controlled

application of a cosmetics product.

it won the 2017 PCHi innovation award

approach and helps reduce side

The results show that Thermolat has a

in China.

In comparison to the warming


| MARCH 2018 | P C Review

Thermolat is odourless, liquid and starts working within five minutes of




Top 10 companies by partnership and licensing deal values completed in 2017


Claim to fame or failed campaign Making suitable claims on cosmetics products can be tricky. Jill Gardiner tackles this issue in the second edition of the P C Review Compliance Column.

C THE PHARMACEUTICAL INDUSTRY is highly volatile with promising lead candidates making or breaking a company’s year. According to GlobalData, the financial success of companies is often down to the strategic deals they can make with other pharmaceutical companies and research organisations to enable their drug development strategies. The US$8.5 billion agreement between AstraZeneca and Merck to co-develop AstraZeneca’s Lynparza (olaparib) for multiple cancer types put the two companies at the top for strategic alliance spending in 2017. AstraZeneca just clinched the top spot from Merck with its development deals with Pieris Pharmaceuticals and MedImmune. Lisa Marris, healthcare analyst at GlobalData, comments: ‘Despite this, Merck had an arguably more successful year. It more than quadrupled its alliance deal values since 2016, and if its subsidiaries are added to the equation, its 2017 deal values rise to US$9.5 billion, an increase of 248 percent from 2016, whereas AstraZeneca and its subsidiaries stayed almost stagnant at US$11 billion.’ Pieris Pharmaceuticals also had good year, making alliances in 2017 worth more than 35 times to those made in 2016. However, it is unlikely to do as well this year, as the 2017 value was primarily due to its US$2.2 billion co-development deal with AstraZeneca, alongside a US$1.8 billion licensing agreement with Les Laboratoires Servier. She continues: ‘The development agreement with AstraZeneca will help Pieris enhance its inhaled drug candidates for respiratory diseases, whereas the collaboration with Servier will advance Pieris’ immune-oncology programmes, led primarily by PRS-332, a PD-1-targeting bispecific checkpoint inhibitor.’ Allergan and Novartis both experienced slower years than 2016, with decreases in partnership and licensing deal value by 44 and five percent respectively. However, both companies still

laims always need to be made in a cosmetic sense and not a medicinal sense and should be guided by Appendix B of the Advertising Standards Authority (ASA) Code of Practice. The cosmetic context has the typical characteristics of: • temporary action • i mprovement of the appearance of the skin • to be used regularly to maintain the effect • t he effect is aimed at grooming and enhancing the appearance of the skin texture. The medicinal context has the typical characteristics of: • permanent or drastic effects after completion of a treatment • healing or curative effects • to be used restrictively because of potency of the treatment • t he effect is aimed at treatment of or relieving a disease condition. Armed with this information, you are now ready to determine acceptable claims for cosmetics. However, you are not out of the woods yet, as all claims require substantiation. So, what does this entail? • Claims relating to points of difference must have appropriate scientific substantiation defined as: Substantiation based on statistically valid data, employing a validated, proven, scientific method and applicable to the claim being made. • Scientific substantiation will be judged according to international standards. Once you have your substantiation in place it is critical to review the claims to ensure that you have not created any unacceptable claims. So, what are unacceptable claims? These are claims that are used and not substantiated, or claim statements not worded in a cosmetic sense. In general, no cosmetic claims for products used on mucous membranes (except the mouth) will be allowed. Claims suggesting permanent effects of cosmetics may not be used, e.g. permanent improvement, reversal of deterioration etc. Substantiation is key in the claim to fame or failed campaign game. You must always ensure the substantiation provided is adequate to support the claim. Do not allow marketing to tweak the claim so that it sounds more grand or convincing, but is no longer substantiated, as this could be your downfall. In the next Compliance Column, we will take a closer look at those specific claim areas that lend themselves to scrutiny by competitors and consumers. Join us in July to find out more. •

closed big deals in 2017. Ultimately, GlobalData expects 2018 is likely to be Merck’s year in terms of R&D collaboration.

Jill Gardiner is an independent industry expert and educator.

P C Review | MARCH 2018 |



ood f






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10 to 11 April Gallagher Convention Centre, Midrand

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| MARCH 2018 | P C Review

10 to 13 June Century City, Cape Town


The microbiome: more than a trend and key to skin care




WEB WITH IVAUDAN CONTINUES TO invest in Active Beauty and its metagenomics platform.

The company’s main aim here is to boost its pioneering position in the microbiome market. As the only fragrance company with in-house microbiome research capabilities, Givaudan remains committed to making strategic investments that will push the boundaries of scientific innovation. Following the installation of state-of-the-art automation equipment at the Applied Microbiomics Centre of Excellence in Toulouse, France, the company will accelerate the high throughput screenings (HTS) to offer more disruptive solutions for customers. With over 15 years’ experience in the field

Expert scientists at Givaudan were the

of microbiomics, Givaudan Active Beauty

first to discover the creation of ‘microbiome

the creation of new active cosmetics

continues to develop active cosmetics

activated’ ingredients as well as

ingredients in microbiomics. I’m very proud

ingredients, available in South Africa

‘microbiome protecting’ agents, resulting

of the team in our Applied Microbiomics

from The Care Co., which are designed

in two award-winning active ingredients:

Centre of Excellence which is constantly

to activate, protect or balance the

Brightenyl and Revivyl.

pioneering the ingredients of tomorrow. This

skin microbiota.

Brightenyl, the first microbiome activated

fascinating for a fragrance house to lead

also includes our teams around the world

skin brightener, won a Gold and Bronze

working alongside our customers to create

says: ‘Not only are these investments in

Innovation Award in 2015 at in-cosmetics

inventive new products for their markets.’

line with our 2020 strategy, our astonishing

Global and in-cosmetics Latin America,

advancements in microbiomics also allow

respectively. The first holistic skin renewal

microbiome and the key drivers as to why

us to bring ground-breaking concepts

accelerator, Revivyl won Gold for Best

Givaudan Active Beauty created Brightenyl

to new and existing customers. As the

Innovation Award at in-cosmetics Latin

and Revivyl are detailed in a new white

microbiome trend continues to grow, our

America and in-cosmetics Asia in 2017.

paper entitled Leadership in Microbiomics

Laurent Bourdeau, head of Active Beauty,

teams will be at the forefront of this area of scientific research.’

Maurizio Volpi, president of Givaudan’s fragrance division, comments: ‘It’s

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The company’s expert vision on the skin

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FIND US Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review @SApharmacos

P C Review | MARCH 2018 |


STREET Optimum hydration for your skin Coverderm’s Maxydrat

New trial sizes and travel packs

Optiphi has released a series of travel packs and trial kits for various skin care needs and concerns. First from the South African skin care brand is an Active Travel Kit with four products to cleanse, protect, moisturise and rejuvenate the skin. The Classic Travel Kit offers a multi-defence system in the form of four products that cleanse, hydrate and protect skin. The Post Peel Travel Kit is the perfect post procedure solution to gently purify, moisture and protect skin. Optiphi skin treatments and products are available

hydration systems are formulated with betaine, which mimics skin’s hydration mechanism, ensuring water is transported into each cell for optimum hydration. The Maxydrat Serum offers a concentrated, extra-strong formula with long-lasting anti-ageing ingredients to boost hydration and combat wrinkles. Other products in the range include Maxydrat Visage and Maxydrat Yeux. Coverderm’s Maxydrat products are available countrywide at select Dis-Chem stores as well as online at and

nationwide at selected spas and professional salons. Visit www. for more information.

Softest wipe in bulk pack size

Cherubs Newborn Baby Wipes offer a gentle cleanse with purified water as a key ingredient. According to the brand, they are the first wipes in South Africa to be offered in a 100s pack size to meet consumers’ demands for bulk packs that are more practical and budget friendly. Each pack has a clip lid to prevent moisture loss while the wipes are enriched with vitamin E and Aloe Vera. Cherubs Newborn Baby Wipes cost R36.99 and are available nationwide at all leading retailers.

Jordan makes a


ACDOCO SA is bringing the global oral care brand Jordan back into the country. The company has launched five ranges in South Africa, including the Step-by-Step kids range, precision Jordan Target range, Ultimate You (a Red Dot Design winner), Jordan Individual – the brand’s bestselling toothbrush – and Expert Clean, which includes advanced Clean tech bristle technology and GumCare bristles. The ranges are available nationwide at Clicks and in Gauteng at selected Spars.

Care for hair organically Pure Beginnings Balancing Shampoo is SLS free and formulated with gentle surfactants. The product also contains Organic Argan oil to build hair’s strength and organic Aloe Vera to balance and soothe the scalp. Its Balancing Conditioner is formulated with a combination of Marula, Argan, Coconut and Jojoba oils. Aloe and Baobab fruit extract soothe the scalp while a unique combination of Rosemary and Ylang Ylang leave hair with a subtle, yet invigorating aroma. Both products are suitable for the entire family, cost R109.95 for 250ml and are free from silicones, sulphates, parabens or colourants.


| MARCH 2018 | P C Review


Proud partners of O6 Agencies in Southern and Eastern Africa.

Swiss quality since 1926. LUZI fragrance compounds is a family-owned Swiss company that specialises in the development of unique scents for fine fragrances, personal care, home and air care. Our scents are carefully created to contribute to the success of our clients’ products, always considering the latest trends and innovations.

LUZI • Switzerland • Malaysia •


The direct selling effect –

how fragrances are changing lives O6 Agencies has launched Ross & Foxwell to provide entrepreneurs with tools and training to grow sustainable businesses using direct selling. P C Review finds out more about the workings of this new division and shares Luzi’s new fragrance trends, developed specifically for South Africa. successful that it has turned into a fully functional division, which Richard says needed its own identity. So, Ross & Foxwell was launched. Ross & Foxwell’s typical customer is a basic to middle class millennial with entrepreneurial flair and the desire to earn extra income. In Alexandra (Johannesburg), Ross & Foxwell’s move to empower entrepreneurs with a sustainable business solution has really taken off. ‘We’ve seen a number of mini direct selling networks established within the community with various entrepreneurs working



hen O6 Agencies first launched its ‘small

options to entrepreneurs

Considering the high unemployment rate in South Africa,

idea how much of an impact their idea

direct selling is a good solution to

would have on the informal sector.

overcoming this ongoing economic and social challenge. There is no

offering business training and mentoring

barrier to entry to become a direct

to entrepreneurs looking to set up their

seller. You don’t need any particular

own direct selling companies,’ says

level of education or training; direct

Adam. ‘On the first two Saturdays of every

selling doesn’t require any retail

month, we collect customers at central

infrastructure and can be done from

points and bring them to our office in

home and you don’t need to do it full

Midrand for a start to finish workshop on

time. What you do need is the tools

how to establish a sustainable fragrance

and training to help you develop your

business using mini direct selling models.

value proposition and go-to-market

We also provide the tools and products

strategy, which is what O6 Agencies

needed to get started in the form of a

offers. In fact, its ‘small business

starter pack.’

Saturdays’ project has become so Carmen Aimee Owen


| MARCH 2018 | P C Review

of fragrances we offer,’ Adam explains. ‘One

While Ross & Foxwell is

helping entrepreneurs build

team, Richard and Adam Owen had no

‘We started the project last year,

certain parts of the range

Direct selling provides many customer has been exciting career opportunities within so successful that he a corporate environment. The business model has also enjoyed exponential gave up his quantity global growth through offering lowsurveying job to cost micro business and flexible concentrate full time income generating opportunities on his direct selling to millions of people. Source Michaela-Ann McLachlan fragrance business.’ showing some new fragrance

business Saturdays’, joint MDs and father and son

together, each carrying

sustainable businesses, develop brands and make a living, the

COMPANY FOCUS success of the division has also provided

the usability and experience of products.

employment for three new staff members.

We’ve noticed local consumers are looking

Ultimately, Richard would like to expand

for authentic experiences and turning to

Ross & Foxwell into East Africa. He explains,

traditional rituals. In response, Luzi has

‘Although the market is still very nervous

focused on creating scents that mimic

of the concept, we are making headway

clay, roots, natural South African barks

through education to change negative

and volcanics, offering a back to basics

perceptions and get customers started.

campaign interlaced with that traditional

I believe the potential for a direct selling

ritual feeling,’ Adam comments.

market in East Africa could be bigger than South Africa because the region is so diverse, and its people trade extensively among themselves.’

Signature scents for Africa O6 Agencies is the official agent for Luzi in South Africa and East Africa. The Swiss producer of fragrance compounds rebranded last year and in 2016, it launched a manufacturing plant in Malaysia. These developments have been particularly beneficial to O6 Agencies from a logistical and economical perspective. Luzi Malaysia reflects the company’s confidence in the expansion of the

Ross & Foxwell’s move to empower entrepreneurs with a sustainable business solution has really taken off

Asia Pacific market and demonstrates its strong commitment to these and

Mystic Energy will resonate with

other developing markets, like South

consumers looking for authenticity and

Africa. The new facility strengthens the

a disconnect from modern technology

company’s growth strategy, supports

and the ‘always-on’ hype. The simplicity,

its customers with speed to market and

comfort and warmth of traditional rituals

is something that all South Africans like,

significantly improves its manufacturing

and ceremonial beauty are becoming

whether they admit it or not. We’ve been

capacity. The plant features state-of-the

increasingly appealing as consumers

working with Luzi to create the right rose

art equipment including automated

revisit ancestral care. This is changing

fragrance for the local market using a

dosing and production process systems

the marketing messages of beauty and

balsamic amber note with soft rose water

and brings superior quality and value to

personal care brands, which no longer focus

petal and oriental shimmering earthy

Luzi’s customers.

solely on a product’s benefits but also the

tones. It’s delicate, not over complex, and

entire semi-mystical experience surrounding

contains woody and fresh floral elements

African customers is also evident in the Luzi

a product. Key fragrances in this trend are:

with soft rose water notes.’

2018 Fragrance Trends, with 40 percent of

• Fancy Magma, which incorporates the

The company’s commitment to its

O6 Agencies’ offices are situated in Corporate Park North, Midrand

Creating the right fragrances for locally

its beauty and fragrance trends tailored to

liveliness of pink grapefruit infused with

developed products is a major business

the needs of the South African market.

an earthy-fruity aroma and resinous

driver for O6 Agencies. ‘We’ve seen many

balsamic elements, electrified by deep

of the big retailers refocusing on their core

metallic notes

products, creating personal care and

‘Apart from creating signature scents for South Africa, Luzi is also placing a great deal of emphasis on

• Woodargil, a composition that opens

beauty products as line extensions of these

with a rough white clay accord giving

heritage brands. O6 Agencies is proud to

the scent an earthy touch while mystic

be involved in a number of these projects,

wood elements celebrate oriental cults,

supplying fragrances for these locally

lightened with a cheerful enchanting

developed and produced products,’

floral freshness

says Richard.

• Energetic Flash, exploding with the

The company is also supplying the key

pure freshness of green floral notes and

fragrance ingredient in South Africa’s first

powdery accents, this scent reminds one

locally developed and produced premium

of a faint spark or water before it reaches

retail skin care range, which is set to

boiling point.

launch early next year. •

Adam says Woodargil is ideal for washoff products, including shampoos, body washes and bath oils. He’s also noticed that rose is making a comeback in South Africa, but not in its traditional form. ‘Rose

O6 Agencies – Ross & Foxwell –

Fifi Maseko

P C Review | MARCH 2018 |


R&D in the spotlight at

in-cosmetics If you’re heading to Amsterdam in April and need some help planning your visit to in-cosmetics Global 2018, P C Review has an overview of the exhibition highlights and key focus areas.


aking place from 17 to 19 April at RAI

Emerging trends and textures

Amsterdam, in-cosmetics Global will host

Show visitors will be the first to discover how Dow’s

around 9 000 visitors from more than 100

newest skin care technology opens up attractive

countries. Known as the personal care

possibilities for consumers to embrace ageing.

industry’s most interactive ingredients exhibition,

The company’s experts will highlight innovative

the event will provide a one-stop-shop for

textures based on its extensive technical expertise

manufacturers to enhance business relationships,

in rheology modification to help create new and

learn about the latest trends and get a first-hand

appealing textures. It will also showcase a ground-

look at novel ingredients.

breaking SPF-boosting technology designed for

A series of ‘silent’ tours are scheduled for

inorganic UV absorbers. Dow’s Trendslab 2018 and

the expo, exclusively for R&D professionals and

its trendy formulation concepts for skin and hair will

sponsored by Mibelle Biochemistry, focusing on

reveal how societal values in motion inspire new

two of the industry’s major trends – biotechnology

product concepts and formulations. Join Dow at

actives and the future of anti-ageing. The tours have been designed to ensure busy R&D professionals efficiently navigate the event’s must-see areas and learn more about exhibitors’ innovations,

stand F20 to discover new products, solutions and formulation blueprints that inspire

DID YOU KNOW? The new Boost your Test initiative

ideas, resonate with emerging trends and enrich customers’ lives.

is an interactive area dedicated to the Natural skin care actives subject of cosmetics testing. Staged in At stand A10, Greentech will partnership with Skinobs, Boost your product development. showcase Urbalys, a multi-purpose Test will feature three different Another new initiative is the halfmethods of cosmetics testing: anti-pollution skin care ingredient human; in vitro; and testing day Regulatory Conference, taking that eliminates free radicals, increases using high-tech place on 16 April at 14h00 CET, in devices. skin’s natural defence mechanism partnership with Conusbat. and has anti-inflammatory properties. The ensuring they leave the show brimming with ideas for new

The show will also see cosmetics

company’s unique pharmaceutical approach to

giants go head-to-head in the hotly

develop cosmetics ingredients allows Greentech to

anticipated Formulation Challenge. Six

develop high-quality products that meet or exceed

leading manufacturers will be tasked

customers’ needs. The reliability of its ingredients

with creating an innovative formulation

is proven by the company’s ability to maintain a

from a box of mystery raw materials in just

leading position in producing natural and organic

90 minutes. The in-cosmetics Innovation Zone will once again provide a launch pad for more

actives from plants, marine and microbial sources. Greentech is represented in South Africa by Natchem.

than 100 state-of-the-art concepts. This everpopular area allows time-pressed R&D

Sun Chemical Performance Pigments, represented

one place, mitigating the need to scour

in South Africa by The Care Co., will highlight

the show floor.

its wide range of pearlescent and bold effect

Visit for more information about In-cosmetics Global 2018 or to register to attend the expo.


Bold effect pigments

scouts to find the latest ingredients all in

| MARCH 2018 | P C Review

pigments. It will also participate in the in-cosmetics Make-Up Bar, where visitors are invited to discover trendsetting colour cosmetic ingredients and test

VISIT THE FORMULATION LAB THE IN-COSMETICS Formulation Lab has become renowned worldwide as a unique platform that provides an opportunity for delegates to learn, from top suppliers, how to maximise the potential of their ingredients. Set in a purpose-built facility, the interactive Formulation Lab sessions bring together the industry’s most highly skilled experts to deliver a series of hands-on demonstrations by formulation prototypes. Guests who visit

The Institute of Personal Care Science and some

formulation challenges. Visit stand B10

Sun Chemical at stand A60 will learn about

of the world’s most innovative suppliers.

to find out more about the speciality ingredients from its suppliers and the

the enhanced Inteza family of pearlescent to prevent photoaeging by offering the

sophisticated formulation technologies to

with only synthetic mica substrates.

skin triple protection against UF, infra-red

create innovative finished products.

The combination of certified organic

and blue light radiation. A selection of

colourants with synthetic mica provides

unique botanicals from around the world,

superior chroma, exceptional sparkle, and

Actismart extracts have been prized

Go natural with calcium carbonate

lower residual heavy metals compared

for their beauty enhancing, spiritual

Omya Consumer Goods, a CJP

to natural mica substrates. Designed for

and natural values. These extracts are

Chemicals principal, will present its

formulating unique colours and effects,

also supported by in vitro efficacy data.

range of versatile calcium carbonates

its SunShine pearlescent pigments can

The company will also launch a new

that satisfy multiple global consumer

make formulations sparkle and shine.

and surprising marketing concept in

trends. At A160, Omya will highlight

This family of pure synthetic mica-based

Amsterdam targeting millennials.

innovative ingredients that anticipate the

effect pigments, which are now created

demands of tomorrow. The company’s

pearlescent pigments has a high degree of transparency, brilliant sparkle and a

Constantly evolving

core products are the Omyacare

broad range of particle sizes.

IMCD Personal Care is equipped to move

range of natural, pure white minerals

as fast as the market changes. With

with several mastered particle sizes;

Expect the unexpected

a team of technical experts and their

Omyascrub for scrubbing applications;

Lipotec, a Savannah Fine Chemicals

extensive knowledge and insight, the

Omyaskin for decorative cosmetics

principal, will present several novelties

global company is constantly evolving

and Omyadent functional particles for

at stand C30. To promote microbiota

to bring the very latest innovations and

toothpaste applications.

balance and reinforce the physical barrier

consumer trends to customers. At in-

function, Fensebiome peptide helps

cosmetics Global, IMCD will show how

IR blockers on show

prevent dehydration and strengthens

it adapts to keep ahead of the ever-

Infrared radiations, in particular near

the skin. Lumicease blue ingredient is a

changing industry, helping customers

infrared (IR-A), have the ability to

new biotechnological active developed

enhance their products and overcome

penetrate deep into the dermis. Recent

BOTANY TO BODY Stem Cells Hydroglycerine Extracts Propylene Glycol Extracts Hydrosols Organic Essential Oils Essential Oils Specialized Actives Indigenous Extracts Indigenous Oils

Quick sample delivery

Technical assistance

Small MOQ’s (1kg to 5kg)

Competitive prices


072 731 3909

P C Review | MARCH 2018 |



studies have shown they generate free

Skin and body care actives

radicals and produce other harmful

At stand G60, Sederma will showcase

biological effects to the skin resulting in

PoreTect, a new eco-designed active

ageing and wrinkles. Kobo has screened

ingredient that acts as a skin texture

numerous particulate materials and

rejuvenator, smoothing skin grain and

selected two specific grades of titanium

uncovering its natural radiance. If you’re

dioxide, which showed a great capacity

looking for something new for body care,

education2018/marketing-trends-2018/ for the

to block IR-A. These materials are offered

Sederma will share more on Hydronesis, a

marketing trends and

with a variety of surface treatments and

biotechnological body beautifier active

education2018/technical-seminars-2018/ for

will be showcased at its stand F100, at in-

obtained by fermentation of the pink lake

the technical seminars.

cosmetics. Kobo is represented locally by

microorganism that gives an irresistible

Cosmetic Ingredients.

touch to the skin, reducing keratosis pilaris

Four in one for men

and post-waxing redness. With pollution

ChemyUnion, represented locally by

still a hot topic, some new autophagy data

Chemgrit Cosmetics, will showcase

Clariant invites formulators to stand H90 to

will be presented on its anti-pollution plant

a functional skin care ingredient that

experience its new sustainable innovations.

cell culture extract, Citystem.

acts as a broad-spectrum antimicrobial

Sustainable innovations

THE WORLD-RENOWNED Marketing and Technical Seminars Theatres will deliver hot-off-the-press consumer trends, analysis and research data, as well as information on the latest relevant regulatory changes. To plan your diary for these not-to-bemissed sessions, visit

The company will confront hair’s

agent, providing formulators

vulnerability head-on with a range

greater chances of diversification

of new conditioning ingredients.

in terms of product preservation.

Meticulous research and a whole

Its synergetic combination of xylitol

new scientific approach yield

esters and caprylyl glycol make

the potential to revolutionise the

this unique product compatible

global hair care market. New

with several cosmetics formulations

hair conditioning formulations

that are great for micellar waters

showcased at the stand will

and wet wipes. It will also reveal a

give visitors a chance to feel the

new natural and multifunctional

difference. Clariant’s new active

skin care solution for men, with four

ingredients include an exciting

benefits in a single active. Also on

innovation inspired by the works of

show is the company’s exclusive

the 2017 Nobel Prize for Medicine

hair straightening system, which

or Physiology. Made from a natural

reduces hair fibre damage. This

plant extract, this new active

system increases hair’s diameter,

ingredient will contribute to the

protects it from breakage, promotes

protection of the cells’ biological

a long-lasting straightening effect

rhythms to prevent the appearance

and improves shine through a

of skin fatigue.

synergistic combination of sericin

Hybrid silicone treated pigments

Sculpt and firm curves Sarcoslim Re-Shape PRCF is the

and wheat protein.

Shin-Etsu (stand F90) will introduce a

latest innovation from Vytrus Biotech,

Pigments and additives

range of highly functional pigments,

represented locally by Savannah Fine

Venator Materials will promote a

the KTP-09 series, for colour cosmetics.

Chemicals. This product has a lipo-

range of high purity products. The

Using Shin-Etsu’s unique silicone/alkyl

sculpting effect. It activates lipolysis and

company’s pigments and additives

branching hybrid silicone technology for

uses part of this energy to rebuild the skin’s

are integral to the look and feel of all

surface treatment, these pigments offer

structure (ECM: collagen and elastin).

kinds of cosmetics, skin and dental

a range of benefits such as increased

It is said to prevent skin’s sagginess as a

care formulations. Its colour pigments

hydrophobicity, excellent wetting and

result of slimming and dieting. Sarcoslim

deliver dramatic, long-lasting results

improved dispersibility in a wide range of

Re-Shape PRCF shows good anti-

in mascaras, eyeshadows, lipsticks,

inflammatory and anti-oxidant benefits

blushers and many other make up

in vitro. The ingredient’s efficacy is also

products. Venator’s titanium dioxide

with a light and silky feel.

proven in vivo and ex vivo, where human

pigments provide a flawless finish in

KTP-09 pigments can

skin explants were treated with HCl to

foundations and help to give concealers

be used in liquid, fluid

induce damage similar to that of fattening

and correcting creams consistent

and powder foundations

skin. Results showed the product was able

coverage capabilities. It also offers

where they enhance

to maintain cell membrane structures,

specialist titanium dioxide grades

the formulator’s choice

stimulate metabolic activity, reduce the

for anti-ageing skin care treatments,

accumulated lipid content and regenerate

ultra-natural baby care products and

collagen and elastin. Visit stand C318e to

sunscreen formulations. Its well-known

find out more about Sarcoslim Re-Shape

Hombitan, UV-Titan, Ferroxide, Sicovit,

PRCF, which is produced using plant stem

Trupure and ultramarine products will be

cell cultures of Sarcocapnos crassifolia.

on show at in-cosmetics Global. •

oils. They also provide good adhesion to skin combined

of various oils ranging from silicone to natural, while reducing coloured streaks and precipitation. Shin-Etsu is represented in South Africa by CJP Chemicals.


| MARCH 2018 | P C Review


Quintessence creates

beauty through innovation

With the expertise and capabilities to develop and produce unique products and cuttingedge concepts, Quintessence Collections is committed to innovation through quality procedures and a passion for manufacturing.


his Pretoria-based company

and brand owners, manufacturing

services a wide range of market

body and skin care products on a third

segments, including contract

party basis. Subsequently Ann’s sons,

manufacturing, distribution, retail

Julian Rogers along with Hentie van

and new product development. Through

Zyl joined the business, which saw the

the implementation of new and innovative

company evolving into a 100 percent

systems and procedures, Quintessence

owner managed family business. ‘We believe the secret to a successful

Collections ensures it always operates at

product offering is a hands-on

its optimum. The business was established in 1995 by Ann Rogers to service retailers, corporates

approach. To this end, all members are actively involved in the day-to-day running of the business, ensuring efficient and effective procedures with the offering


Quintessence Collections family focused management team: Ann, Julian and Hentie

of the highest possible quality of products,’ Julian explains. ‘Our business is our pride

The company currently offers a wide

and joy; we are deeply committed to

range of products suitable to many


the well-being of our customers and

markets, including retail, spas and salons,

a highly specialised NPD procedure to


hotel amenities, direct selling and high-

ensure a final product is exactly what was

end skin care. ‘The latter is our area of

originally conceptualised. R&D is based on a

Flexible and focused

predetermined quotation, supplied information

Quintessence Collections has the

care products formulated with the latest

and includes a confidentiality agreement to

capacity to manufacture and pack a

and greatest actives sourced from all over

ensure the protection of the client’s IP. This

vast range of skin, body and bath care

the world is my passion. We’re equipped

service includes:

products, with minimum batch size

to develop and produce cleansers, toners,

• discussions regarding product requirements

requirements starting from five kilograms

moisturisers, creams, exfoliants and scrubs,

on selected products.

as well as more specialised products such

and understanding of expectations

‘Our filling lines are suited to fill products

• formulation and sample submission

specialisation. Creating cutting-edge skin

as eye treatments, anti-ageing serums,

• stability testing in approved packaging

across a wide range of viscosities, such

products to address pigmentation and

• ingredient and allergen listing composition

as eau de parfum, hand and body

dark spots, and face masks.’ •

• product dossiers as required for local and

lotions, bath creams, body butters and

export markets • specific tests and safety assessments.

gel products. We can also assist with filling and sealing of tubes of smaller product runs,’ he explains.

Quintessence Collections –

uintessence collections cc.

At Quintessence Collections we manufacture a wide range of quality skin, body and bath care products for the retail, professional treatment, and corporate markets 426 Skilder Street | Silvertondale | Pretoria +27 12 804 7545 | +27 12 804 6443 |

P C Review | MARCH 2018 |



Choose your contractor wisely As an industry leader, Wrapsa strives to remain at the forefront of the technology curve in process and manufacturing technologies. P C Review shares a number of reasons why the company is an ideal contract manufacturing partner for brand owners.


rapsa manufactures over 1 000 different products for various customers in the pharmaceutical, complementary medicines

The new analytical lab at Wrapsa

Consistently compliant

(CAMs), personal care, food and beverage, and

Manufacturing, be it third party or in house,

veterinary industries. The business is built on the

plays a critical role in South Africa in terms of

pillars of contract manufacturing and packing,

securing local product supply and providing

also referred to as third party manufacturing,

employment. In the pharmaceutical industry,

which include Good Manufacturing Practices

contract manufacturers have become major

(GMP), complete confidentiality for its customers

players with a large portion of multinational

Wrapsa is a good fit for your business if you’re looking for a contract manufacturer that doesn’t compromise on quality

and guaranteed continued supply

companies having divested in the country over

of products.

the last couple of years. In order to maintain its leading position as

Wrapsa is a good fit for your business if you’re looking for a contract

a contract manufacturer, Wrapsa has made

manufacturer that doesn’t compromise

capital investments in its capabilities and various

on quality, is licensed by the Medicines

facilities, which are ongoing. Since 2007, the

Control Council and doesn’t own or

company has invested in excess of R80 million to

produce its own brands or products.

upgrade its manufacturing and packing facility

‘Our focus on being a bona fide

and adjacent warehouses. According to Jannie

contractor has stayed the same

Nel, responsible pharmacist at Wrapsa, its most

for the past 34 years,’ says Nardus

recent expansion projects include an industry-

Alberts, CEO of Wrapsa. ‘This

leading plant to produce anti-retrovirals and a

makes us unique. Considering

dedicated laboratory with world-class analytical

we’re privy to extensive

equipment, offering full analytical testing and

confidential information, from the outset we chose not to

compete with our customers. This is an area of utmost sensitivity for Wrapsa and the main reason why we never developed any in-house brands.’ Wrapsa caters for small to very large production runs.

stability testing services for CAMs and


pharma products. In addition to pharma contract manufacturing and packing,

Wrapsa is MCC licenced, cGMP Wrapsa has customers in the compliant, and ISO 22 000 and ISO 9001:2015 accredited. It is a veterinary, food supplements member of the Aerosol Manufacturer’s and cosmetics industries. ‘These Association of South Africa, the Health clients include local as well as Products Association of South Africa and the Generic and Biosimilar global multinational companies,’ Medicines Association of says Louis Alberts, Wrapsa’s logistics Southern Africa. manager. ‘We are in many ways an extension of our customers’ business and will create infrastructure within our factory for their specific needs, should the volumes justify this.’ Ultimately, Wrapsa is a world-class company and a preferred manufacturing and packing contractor in South Africa. Because it is built on the premise of meeting the needs of brand owners that choose not to manufacture their own products – it is the perfect contractor with which to partner. •

Wrapsa’s ARVs production plant


| MARCH 2018 | P C Review

Wrapsa –

Manufacturing • Liquids - Syrups - Suspensions - Emulsions • Creams/ointments/gels • Powders/granules • Tablets (uncoated/sugar-coated/film coated) • Capsules • Caplets • Lozenges

Packing • Blister and strip packing of capsules, tablets, softgel caps and caplets • Sachet filling- liquids, powders, cream and ointments • Tube filling (aluminium, plastic and laminated) • Shrink-wrapping • Filling (creams, powders, liquids) • Flowpac/pillow packing of various products • Tablet/capsule packing into containers • Aerosol filling

Laboratory Services Fully Equipped stability laboratory offering: • Stability tests • Research & Development

Confidentiality The company enforces a strict confidentiality code. Full documentation accompanies all work.

Certification MCC Licence; GMP Certificate; ISO 9001:2008 and ISO 22000:2005

WRAPSA (PTY) LTD Tel: +27 (0) 12 653 0347/8 | Fax: +27 (0) 12 653 0857


Committed to

good skin care Clean label and natural and organic products are a speciality of Remancos. This contract manufacturer is dedicated to meeting the skin, hair and personal care needs of modern consumers. Orange Smoothie sugar scrub cubes


emancos was founded in 2009 by Candice Kalil. She has worked in the cosmetics industry for

the past 15 years and has extensive experience in formulating skin, body and hair care products.

Good skin care is becoming a culture that everyone wants

Kalil says her business is service driven.

Good skin care is becoming a culture that everyone wants. Referring to the growth of the cruelty-free market, she says millennials really do care and that Remancos has the passion, resilience and creativity to provide solutions to customers to successfully compete in the naturals market.

‘I have used my cosmetics technology

Natural and clean label

and marketing experience to form a

The company is committed to producing

and commitment to ensure that your

company that listens to its customers

clean label and natural products.

formulations are competitive,’ she adds.

and innovates, formulates and produces

‘Consumers have become more and

‘Remancos’ dedicated employees bring our

products in line with our customers

more educated on the “good” and

motto to life – “what the mind can conceive

intended concepts. Remancos has

“bad” ingredients. They scrutinise

Remancos can achieve”. We subscribe

become a recognised innovator in

ingredients listings and google the

to the saying “nature knows best” when it

designing and manufacturing personal

functions of ingredients, ultimately

comes to cosmetics products.’

care products at our new state-of-the-art

looking for cleaner, purer and more

production plant.’

natural products,’ Kalil explains.

‘We have the experience, expertise

A number of the ingredients its formulators use come directly from nature because Kalil places great emphasis on keeping the products her company produces as pure as possible. ‘There are several reasons why we are 100 percent committed to protecting consumers’ skin from harmful chemicals. Extensive research shows some chemicals in a lot of the skin care products we use are can be harmful to our bodies,’ she concludes. •

Remancos production facility in Strijdom Park, Johannesburg


| MARCH 2018 | P C Review

Remancos –


A novel partner from start to finish


he biggest benefit of When outsourcing outsourcing your physical the production of your manufacturing and procurement to a contract range or product to a manufacturer is it gives you, the brand third-party supplier, owner, peace of mind knowing you’re Zinplex Cosmeceutical receiving continuous product quality with every delivery. This frees up the advises all brand brand owner to focus on marketing, owners to ensure their getting your products listed with retailers, manufacturer operates training sales staff, planning distribution and registering products to be exported. according to GMP. This Another benefit is you can save will give you peace of on various resources, such as time, mind, knowing that money and space, as the contract manufacturer handles well trained staff DID purchasing and storage are making YOU KNOW? of raw materials and All the equipment in Zinplex your product packaging. So you Cosmeceutical’s manufacturing can focus on sales in line with facility is replicated in its QC and and marketing to grow R&D laboratory. So, the company can benchmarked your brand. upscale or downscale according standards. to customers’ requirements and Consumer confidence

it can produce trial batches in the lab or even very small batches.

Zinplex Cosmeceutical’s well thought out facility aids the flow of the production process

also comes with

How can Zinplex help you? Zinplex Cosmeceutical has a fully equipped R&D and QC laboratory to help with the development of new products and stability testing of new and existing products. The company’s staff, with the help of consultants, aims to always be up to date on the latest trends and can offer valuable advice and guidance. Our manufacturing facility operates according to Good Manufacturing Practices (GMP), is e-mark registered (for legal metrology), employs a formulator who is a member of Coschem while the company is a member of the CTFA and CECOSA. ‘Our customers can rest assured all manufacturing will be done under strict confidentiality and manufacturing

produced in a professional

agreements,’ says Karlien Ley, development

and controlled environment

and customer care manager at Zinplex

with all the quality checks

Cosmeceutical. ‘We specialise in

in place. Full traceability to

manufacturing skin, hair and body products

the source with each batch

(creams, washes, gels, lotions, butters, oils,

number will be available for

etc.) and can fill and seal bottles, tubes, jars

any future queries. With all

and sachets.’ •

on start-up costs, Zinplex


to go, to grow a successful brand.

manufacturer because your

these advantages and saving


contract manufacturing is really the only way

working with a contract

products are developed and

Zinplex Cosmeceutical Advert.pdf 1 2018/02/27 09:44:45

The QC and R&D laboratory at Zinplex Cosmeceutical

Cosmeceutical believes

Zinplex Cosmeceutical –

Manufacturers of Cosmetic, Hair & Body Products

From Development to Production







R&D, formulating and stability in our fully equipped laboratory • Small to large scale batches • Quality, efficient and friendly customer service • mark registered Customer confidentiality guaranteed with NDA’s in place. Production capabilities: Hair, Body and Skin Care, Liquid Sachet filling, Dry Product filling, Powders, Creams, Lotions, Butters, Gels and Oils. Zinplex Cosmeceutical (Pty) Ltd. t: 086 111 9462 • f: 012 803 9283 • e:

Terms and Conditions Apply

P C Review | MARCH 2018 |



Sustainable formulations for

affordable, high-value products At Cunningpac, teamwork is what delivers exceptional products, excellent service and lasting business relationships. This contract manufacturer offers unique packages with a one-stop shop focus to help brand owners get the best out of their ideas. By Abby Vorster


growing company with humble beginnings, Cunningpac was launched by three ex-Innoxa Cosmetics employees with the vision to


develop a third-party contract packing business based on consistently high-quality service offered

Cunningpac is home to the following

at a competitive price.

manufacturing and packing equipment:

‘We value relationships with our staff, suppliers and clients. Our objective is to facilitate the production ofnatural, organic and conventional skin care, cosmetics and cleaning products at prices that make them accessible to the average

• a fully automatic tube filler and sealer that can fill 40 tubes per minute, ranging in size from five millilitres to 250mℓ • a cartoning and overwrapping machine for

consumer. We do this while complying with

fine fragrances and perfumes, and high-end

all the requirements set by industry regulatory

cosmetics and skin care products.

authorities,’ says Graham Cunningham, director of Cunningpac. The company also specialises in producing

comes to packaging, which is a plus point for

fine fragrances and perfumes. ‘We’ve designed a

brand owners looking for unique shelf appeal for

smart processing machine for fragrances which

their products.

has seen us to reduce the altering and chilling

The company is equipped to meet the needs

process by 80 percent. For long runs, we can

of clients of all sizes. It can produce batch sizes

pack up to 10 000 50mℓ fragrance bottles per

from 10 to 500kg and, for big brands launching new products or updating existing ones,

day on our fully automated machine. Smaller perfume runs are packed manually,’ he explains.

A new place to call home


Cunningpac can do test runs. This year, Cunningpac is celebrating its 10 th anniversary

Cunningpac is licensed by the South African Revenue Services to import a specific grade of alcohol for perfume production.

Cunningpac can assist clients with all aspects of product development including formulation development, fine-tuning of

existing formulations, upscaling and downscaling. Thanks to its extensive experience in

and ongoing and consistent growth. To support these developments, the company moved into new premises last year. The new manufacturing and packing plant has been set

up to facilitate rapid turnaround coupled with the thorough cleaning of all equipment between each batch. This ensures that Cunningpac can cost-effectively produce


small to medium sized batches of high-

and packing,

value products.

Cunningpac’s team can also

‘The design and layout of our new plant facilitates better flow and improved medicinal

advise on

manufacturing standards supported by

packaging dos

anti-bacterial paint and epoxy flooring,’ says

and don’ts. The

Cunningham. ‘We adhere strictly to GMP

company is very

and are Ecocert accredited. We are also

flexible when it

happy for customers to inspect our operating




July 2017

Cunningpac is established and starts manufacturing.

The company receives its Ecocert approval to manufacture certified natural and organic cosmetics. This certification is reviewed annually through an audit process.

Management finds new, 1 300m² premises to support the growing business.

Cunningpac moves into its new plant in Mkondeni, Pietermaritzburg.


| MARCH 2018 | P C Review

CONTRACT MANUFACTURING An inside look at Cunningpac

procedures and systems provided this doesn’t compromise on the confidentiality of another customer.’

A versatile contractor Cunningpac’s employees are its most important asset. Because the company’s processes require a lot of manual labour, Cunningpac is pleased to contribute

We can pack up to 10 000 50mℓ fragrance bottles per day on our fully automated machine

towards job creation in our currently job-

in line with the client’s requirements,’ says Cunningham. ‘Having an inventory of stock formulations also minimises development time. Some of our stock formulations include an eye serum, body lotion, mass market perfumes, a tissue oil, moisturising cream and body wash.’ Looking to the future, Cunningpac plans to establish a full R&D lab with technicians on site, though Cunningham says, this is

scarce country. ‘We employ 25 people and

and instead we use a non-ionic,

run one shift at the moment; we can easily

biodegradable surfactant with good

facilitate an additional shift if needed,’

dermatological compatibility and viscosity

packing equipment to our plant and plan

says Cunningham.

enhancing properties.

on introducing a fully automated process

Cunningpac can produce lotions, body

The company also has an extensive

dependent on industry demand. ‘We are in the process of adding sachet

vessel in 2019. This will accommodate bigger

butters, sun creams and anti-ageing

range of stock formulations. These are

batches from 1 000kg upwards, to satisfy

products. Toothpaste production is also

an ideal solution for entrepreneurs or

clients with larger volumes,’ he concludes. •

possible, as well as more sustainable

brand owners looking for something

hair, bath and body care products where

special, yet their budget is limited.

SLS is eradicated from the formulations

‘These formulations can be tweaked

Cunningpac –

P C Review | MARCH 2018 |



Sachet gets closer to market with new facility Sachet Manufacturers is expanding its national footprint by investing in a state-of-the-art manufacturing and packing facility in Johannesburg. P C Review has the exclusive on this interesting industry development.


unit and bulk packs across a variety

High-end technology

of industries.

The new facility will be able to

After 18 months of industry research,

manufacture and pack a wide variety

management made a bold move

of liquid and powder home, personal

to conquer new frontiers in contract

and cosmetics products ranging from

manufacturing, branching out to

detergents and abrasives to creams

Johannesburg to be closer to its

and shampoos, as well as oral


target market. ‘The multinational customers we have serviced for almost 30 years expressed the challenges

or the past 28 years, Sachet

they are facing with

Manufacturers (Sachet) has been

home, personal and

providing contract packing services

cosmetics contract

to the South African home, personal

manufacturing and

care products. Phase 1 of the

As a 100 percent black owned Level 1 BBBEE contributor, Sachet’s JHB facility investment will provide sustainable job creation and skills development. The company will also partner with local schools and training facilities to recruit young, recently qualified matriculants for its on-the-job learning interventions.

project aims to build a manufacturing capability of between 10 000 to 15 000t of product per annum. The next phase will focus on creating a leading R&D.

care and food industries. Starting as a small

asked us to consider

contract packing concern filling sachets

applying our principles of

in Durban, the business grew substantially

service excellence and quality in

over the last three decades to include the

this space,’ explains Amien Patel, MD

improved products that cater to their

packing of powders and liquids in low-

and founder of Sachet. ‘The market

specific needs. This is especially true

has highlighted location is key with

in Africa where the industry is looking

rising transport costs and proximity

for innovative ways to penetrate

to the supply and distribution chain

the Ethnic personal care and

being crucial components in making

cosmetics segment,’ highlights Riaz

products cost competitive. This lead

Dhai, financial director and head of

us to take the leap and expand our

commercial at Sachet. ‘Our vision is to

footprint to Johannesburg.’

provide technical support and value

‘Consumers aren’t

looking for the same products anymore. They are searching for

add to customers over the long term to Sachet Manufacturers has invested in the latest international technology, state-of-the-art water treatment solutions that support high end dermatologically certified products and efficient mixing and filling equipment

be able to win in the market.’ •

Sachet Manufacturers –

Contract Manufacturing Excellence

Sachet Manufacturers

• Sachets • Powders • Renovation Centre • Projects • Home & Personal Care and Cosmetic Manufacturing Partner with us to accelerate your business

Sachet Manufacturers is a Grade A BRC accredited supplier

Tel +27 31 459 0033 • Email •


| MARCH 2018 | P C Review


Afriplex spreads its wings up north To facilitate the company’s current marketing drive and to create awareness of its products and services, Afriplex opened an office in Johannesburg and appointed a director of business development.


aving a Gauteng office will not only help Afriplex meet the needs of new and existing customers in the region, but also ensures service excellence for its customers in KwaZulu-Natal. The company’s head office and manufacturing facility are based in Paarl, in the Western Cape, so it has appointed Wayne Robinson, director of business development, to oversee the running of the Gauteng office. Previously, Robinson was the sales, operations and technical director as well as responsible pharmacist at a leading pharmaceutical and personal care contract manufacturer. He is also the director of scientific and regulatory affairs for the Health Products Association (HPA), is the HPA’s ITGCAMS representative and sits on the Industry Task Group that meets and interacts with the South African Health Products Regulatory

SERVICES TO ENSURE QUALITY PRODUCTS TO CONSUMERS Quality is not something stamped onto a product at the end of the line, it’s a crucial element in a product’s lifecycle. To ensure the consumer has access to quality products, Afriplex offers the following services to its customers: • inter- and post-production quality analysis • compiling of common technical documents (CTDs) • accelerated and longterm stability studies.

Authority (SAHPRA), previously known as the Medicines Control Council (MCC) and the Department of Health on regulatory matters. He comments: ‘I was drawn to Afriplex by the company’s proactive approach to want to comply with the CAMs regulations. Afriplex’s full GMP quality standards are comparable to some manufacturers of allopathic medicines. The instrument laboratory at its Cape Town facility is home to two high performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) machines with a third on its way. Apart from HPLC testing, the company does thin layer chromatography analysis, which is a new testing method that very few laboratories in South Africa are equipped to perform.’ Robinson’s appointment will play a significant role in expanding and servicing the company’s customer base through use of his invaluable skills, experience and knowledge in the pharmaceutical, CAMs and food industries. His leadership and guidance will also strengthen and motivate the existing Afriplex team. He will also assist the company with its GMP upgrade proccess to secure its SAHPRA license. ‘To reach GMP compliance, you need to think outside the box. Afriplex is almost there,’ he explains. ‘I’ve visited the company’s Cape Town facility a few times and given compliance advice.

This has been implemented proactively to achieve the level of compliance required for CAMs manufacturing with the long-term view of achieving the level of GMP compliance required for pharmaceuticals.’

SYMPOSIUM HEADS TO JHB As part of its 2018 activities, the biennial Afriplex Technical Symposium will be hosted in Gauteng during the third quarter. The conference programme is set to feature esteemed local and international speakers, who will discuss topics that add value and relevance to the South African pharmaceutical landscape. Presentations will include talks on the manufacturing of cannabis-related pharmaceutical products for both medicinal and research purposes. In addition, Afriplex’s quality services and products will be showcased during the symposium. The programme, date and venue will be forwarded to clients and guests in due course. Afriplex’s presence in Gauteng is in line with the company’s commitment to adding value to its customers’ businesses – a commitment demonstrated by the Afriplex quality standards, its new product development drive and the recent facility upgrades. | +27 (0)21 872 4976 +27 (0)86 578 1305 | Afriplex Pty Ltd

Afriplex Pty Ltd


Wayne Robinson

P C Review | MARCH 2018 |


PHARMA FOCUS//Legislation & Regulations

Industry finds

new direction

centred on access and care

The 90s hype around new drug technologies is becoming a reality. Dr Thomas Kowallik from Novartis South Africa looks at the various factors propelling new and advanced pharmaceuticals in our country.


he world is benefiting from a wave

Preventative medicine is also

in AI. They are used by community health workers to monitor the general health of entire families, with a referral function to local clinics only when built-in algorithms indicate increased risk. Testing and diagnostic devices to monitor chronic conditions can

of pharma breakthroughs with

an area of rapid development.

be plugged into any smartphone to

targeted treatments and biologics

Researchers are working on

measure lung function or glucose

at the top of the list. On the back

promising treatments that halt

levels for example. These then transmit

of massive R&D investments, a pharma

disease progression processes before

data directly to the treating physician.

revolution has started with a wealth of

debilitation sets in. Biological products

Telemedicine using smartphones

innovative and more effective new drugs

to prevent migraines, Alzheimer’s

plays a role in serving remote areas

being licensed globally. This and the

Disease and recurrent major adverse

or providing a link-in to a specialist

availability of next-generation digital

cardiovascular events after

technologies to support research and

a heart attack are some

healthcare delivery are offering new hope


for patients. Comparing the 2012 to 2017 timeframe

Beyond the pill

physician, where needed, to


ensure optimal diagnosis and treatment. These

Novartis has introduced a new mobile app, ViaOpta Hello, to empower South Africans living with blindness and severe visual impairment. The app is powered by Microsoft Cognitive Services and the Windows 10 Universal App Platform.

‘beyond the pill’ solutions are emerging

to the years from 2007 to 2011, the

Progress in R&D

average annual number of new drug

and healthcare

approvals in the USA has increased

delivery is being

by 46 percent. A significant proportion

driven by digitisation.

of new drug approvals have moved

Automation and big

from chemical to biological drugs, or

data analytics support

biotherapeutics, which are manufactured

traditional laboratory work

using a living system such as a

while predictive modelling enhances

microorganism or plant or animal cells.

the ability to predict outcomes and

in 2018, speeding up access to

Personalised cell and gene therapies

in South Africa and could increase their impact over the course of the next year.

New regulator

Backlogs in local medicines approval times are set to change

tailor treatments. Artificial intelligence

advanced new drugs. Patients will

and regenerative medicine present the

(AI), Internet of Things (IoT) and

benefit from the arrival of game-

promise of effective treatment in ways

mobile devices enable more effective

changing drugs, one of which

not previously possible. For example,

patient monitoring and outcomes

received fast-tracked approval by the

immunocellular therapy uses a patient’s

assessments. These developments

Medicines Control Council (MCC)

own T-cells to fight cancer and this year,

are brought to life in smartphone

due to its breakthrough status. The

it received a ‘breakthrough therapy

platforms developed by pharma in

new drug reduces by 20 percent the

designation’ by the US authorities.

collaboration with global leaders

risk of heart failure hospitalisations


| MARCH 2018 | P C Review

PHARMA FOCUS//Legislation & Regulations and cardiovascular deaths following heart failure; it enables patients to improve their quality of life and represents a new treatment class. Another drug under registration is a biological and offers improved psoriasis treatment outcomes with very high skin clearance, and treats psoriatic arthritis and ankylosing spondylitis. Thousands of other drugs still await approval by South Africa’s medicines regulator, delaying the arrival of new drugs by around five years compared to the rest of the world. This is especially critical in life-prolonging treatments where delayed approvals have a direct impact on patients’ survival. The formalisation of the South African Health Products

Spectroscopic Solutions for the Validated Pharmaceutical Industry

Regulatory Authority (SAHPRA), replacing the MCC with effect from 1 June 2017, and the announcement of the new SAPHRA Board in October this year, may herald the start of change in 2018. In the meantime, the South African pharma industry is committed to continued participation in clinical trials, ensuring data from our diverse population contributes to growing new treatments. SAPHRA could gain confidence on review of registration dossiers from the fact that local investigators (often leaders in their clinical field) have had experience with the product. The industry is cautiously optimistic the new body may take a fresh approach to approvals, building on reviews by the U.S.


FTIR Spectrometer


FT-NIR Spectrometer

FDA and European Medicines Agency (EMA) while upgrading its full-time review capacity.

NHI and patient empowerment Universal access to healthcare is a noble ambition yet it should be noted initiatives like the move to a National Health Insurance (NHI) scheme are most effective and sustainable when thoroughly planned and resourced with strong partnerships in place. While we do not expect to see NHI implementation in 2018, we may well see planning progress made. Package coverage


Handheld Raman Spectrometer

will be key as well as what infrastructure and healthcare staff will be available, and that the health insurance will be based on solid and sustainable financing for many years. The pharma industry has a very proactive approach to the changes and is seeking to partner early on with the relevant stakeholders to ensure patient access to the best treatments in a changing healthcare space. Patient advocacy groups will likely play a role in the development of the NHI, amidst another emerging trend in healthcare: the growing role patients play in their treatment.

OPUS Software supports traceable Reference Standards Instrument Qualification according to USP, PhEur, JP Internal Validation Unit (IVU) for automated OQ & PQ Full 21 CRF part 11 support for Data Security, Integrity, Traceability

Globally and in South Africa, emerging patient associations and advocacy groups and patient empowerment through social media are giving patients a voice and shifting them to the centre of the treatment ecosystem. With this wave of change in the industry, South African patients can look forward to improved treatments and enhanced healthcare provision in years to come. •

ABOUT Dr Thomas Kowallik is the CPO head and country president for Novartis South Africa and the head of Novartis southern African countries.

Today´s regulated pharmaceutical laboratories must comply with extensive regulatory requirements. Bruker offers together with its high-end FTIR, FT-NIR and Raman spectrometer line comprehensive system validation tools to achieve systematic and costeffective compliance.

Contact us for more details Innovation with Integrity


P C Review | MARCH 2018 |



The shift to authenticity

drives scent trends Bell Flavors & Fragrances EMEA says the upcoming years will provide a wide range of fragrances reflecting this trend from locally inspired scents to innovative citric notes.


The Cloudberry is considered a super fruit in Scandinavia Image courtesy of Karjalankettu/

egions like northern Europe, the traditional

Trendy ingredients to be expected in personal

and home care products include wildflowers, seabuckthorn and cloudberries. The latter, nicknamed ‘orange of the North’, is the unparalleled super fruit of Scandinavia. Its high levels of vitamin C promise great benefits for beauty products. The situation is similar with the sea buckthorn. The

beverage tea, new citric notes and the

bright orange fruit shapes the dunes around the

2018 Pantone Colour of the Year Ultra

Baltic Sea and is considered the epitome of Baltic

Violet are set to shape personal care

originality. In the upcoming years, meadow beauties,

and household care product development until

such as delicate, summer-scented daisies, will also

2020. This is according to Germany’s Bell Flavors &

be in focus in new fragrance compositions for body

Fragrances EMEA, which is represented in South

and home care products.

Africa by Fourchem. ‘Looking to current fragrance trends, we see

A healthy cup of tea

two main directions. On the one hand, there is

Another key theme reflecting the demand for nature-

a strong desire for regional products. This trend,

inspired scents is tea. The traditional beverage

coming from the food industry, now solidifies

promising well-being and balance is expected

in fragrances. On the other hand, we still

to get another push in the context of the detox

observe the yearning for the exotic. Examples

trend. Whether green, white, black or rooibos – the

of fragrances following this attitude are

large variety of tea available offers great scope for

new citric notes that will find their way to the

manufacturers for unusual and pleasantly restrained

shelves in the upcoming seasons,’ explains

fragrances. The drink can be ideally combined

Janine Hammer, marketing specialist at Bell

with fruits or exotic flowers, such as the lotus. Citric

Flavors & Fragrances EMEA.

notes also make up interesting fragrance directions in combination with tea. This might work as a door

Treasures from the North

opener to the home care segment with dishwashing

The nativeness of the northern landscapes

detergents being among the foremost applications in

delights consumers. There are numerous

which consumers are likely to try something new.

places symbolising localism, from the fjords of Norway with their calm waters and steep cliffs

Citrus reinvented

over the rough Baltic coast to the lonesome

In contrast to the subtle fragrances that are

steppes of Siberia. After all, these landscapes

trending, citric notes continue to remain high on

hold countless fragrance treasures giving

consumers’ agenda. For the upcoming years a

room for fragrance interpretations.

strong swing towards Asia is expected, reflecting

Distributors of Fine Fragrances Tel: 011 791 0312 | Fax : 086 273 2283 |


| MARCH 2018 | P C Review

Proudly appointed distributor of Symrise Fragrances, Cosmetic Ingredients and Aroma Molecules


An expert from Bell inspects the new arrival of Buddha’s Hand at the historic Schimmel Library at the company’s headquarters in Leipzig, Germany

great storytelling value. In China, the ‘fingered citron’ symbolises happiness and a long life. In Japan, ‘Buddha’s Hand’ is a favourite New Year gift because it is believed to bestow good fortune on a household.


the always up-to-date mentality of longing for paradise. Lesser known representatives of these

Ultra Violet sparkling Pantone 18-3838 Ultra Violet, the 2018 Color of the Year, will be interpreted

In 2018, Bell Flavors & on an olfactive level. In perfumery, Fragrances EMEA celebrates its the mystic colour harmonises well 25th anniversary in Germany. The with heavy oriental fragrances. company is a leading supplier of The dark, romantic-looking shade fragrances, flavours, botanical extracts and ingredient specialities is reminiscent of One Thousand to personal and home care and One Nights – a collection of industries and the food and Middle Eastern folk tales compiled in beverage industry.

notes, like kumquat, yuzu and satsuma, will come to consumers’ minds in terms of scented products. An interesting ingredient to explore for citric notes is the hand-shaped citron, ‘Buddha’s Hand’. This fruit is commonly known for its zest and has a flavour described as a blend of bitter and

Janine Hammer points out authenticity as a key trend in scented products for the upcoming years

Arabic during the Islamic Golden Age.

Violet is also the epitome of classical floral notes. Bell Flavors & Fragrances EMEA perceives modern interpretations of the flowers, violet and lupine to be in demand, with fruity notes like fig highly recommended for enchanting fragrance compositions. •

sweet acidity, similar to a kumquat, with lavender undertones. Its oily rind features a fragrant sweet lemon scent while the flesh is void of juice, pulp and seeds. The meaning behind the fruit holds

Bell Flavors & Fragrances EMEA – Fourchem –

Tel 011 608 4944 Fax 011 608 4948 Email

Sensetek.indd 1

2017/03/02 11:50 AM

P C Review | MARCH 2018 |



Go multi-sensorial and

reap the benefits

The beauty and personal care market is evolving in two clear directions. Marie-Eugénie Bouge, director of marketing and communications at Payan Bertrand, maps out developments in fine fragrances and shares solutions to achieve sensorial success.

Millennials, seduced by strong, mysterious and sensual fragrances, are interested in gourmand tones, particularly those associated with sunny scents, dry fruits, honey and figs (Lady Million Privé, Olympéa Intense and Scandal). They also want strong and addictive top notes conveyed through an overdose of lychee and rose (Emporio Armani Stronger With You and Mademoiselle Rochas Eau de Parfum).


For masculine perfumes, brands try the unisex nnovation targets informed consumers, who

touch of orris to succeed with younger generations,

demand new products that not only guarantee

approached unsuccessfully until the launch of

quick results but also provide new sensory

Yves Saint Laurent’s Y and Prada L’Homme Intense.

experiences. This multisensorial approach to

Globally, the accent is on spices, often associated

Sustainable development is part of our philosophy, not to produce more, but to produce better, differently Natural ingredients are explored in the lab at Payan Bertrand

cosmetics and toiletries can be achieved

with leathery tones, emphasising the idea of virility

using new formulation bases, such as a

and luxury (Tom Ford Noir Anthracite, Obsessed for

cream gel, foam, oil, serum or butter. It is

Men, Just Rock! Pour Lui, and L`Homme Lacoste)

also supported by customised fragrances

An overdose of amber is also popular. Initially

that emphasise a product’s efficacy, a sense

dedicated to the extremely active Middle Eastern

of well-being and relaxation, or the vintage

market, this trend is getting stronger in selective

barbershop handcrafted concept – an

distribution and niche fragrances often associated

emerging trend in male grooming.

with marine notes, such as L’Eau Majeure d’Issey and

To translate the well-being or relaxation trend olfactively in cosmetics, use floral fruity

Dylan Blue, and with spices, like Pure XS, Stronger With You, and BOSS The Scent Intense.

aquatic perfumes that enhance the idea of moisturisation and sweet floral oriental scents

Transparency and understanding

for nourishing and soothing body products.

To offer new concepts or an analysis of trends,

In toiletries, exotic fruits, nuts or spices

Payan Bertrand relies on its global network and

transport consumers to far-off destinations

strong knowledge of local specifics developed

while aromatic or oriental fougeres are ideal

through distributor partnerships like its 15 year-long

for male grooming products for hair and beard care. A hot trend in fine fragrances, led by new niche fragrance launches, is the use

association with Natchem, which is perfectly in tune with African market needs. The creativity of our perfumers is supported by

of natural premium ingredients

the quality and exclusivity of our raw materials

highlighted in pure formulations

– an extraordinary range of premium natural

and developed to reveal original

ingredients – tailor made to emphasise the creativity,

facets or new associations of a

strength, signature and lasting durability of Payan

single ingredient.

Bertrand’s creations.

Focus on fine fragrance

R&D department and sourcing division, we offer

Tuberose is the flower of the

unique natural ingredients dedicated to the

year for feminine fragrances.

creation of fine fragrances with a guarantee of

Modernised by a vegetal

distinction. The concept of sustainable development

burst in association with the

is part of our philosophy, not to produce more, but

surprising green fruity Tagetes

to produce better, differently. We place nature at

in Aura Mugler, with ginger in

the beginning and end of all our processes and

Twilly d’Hermès, or with pear in

protecting human beings is a priority. We fully

Gabrielle Chanel. Tuberose also

respect international regulations and aim for the

targets younger generations

highest ethical standards.

Thanks to the knowledge of our natural perfumers,

through new formulations far from


| MARCH 2018 | P C Review

Corporate social responsibility principles

the classical heady ‘soliflore’ of

are integrated at the foundation of all internal

the ’80s.

developments at Payan Bertrand. We implemented


A producer in a vetiver field in Indonesia

collectively to establish more responsible and traceable supply chains. Our partnership with


an NGO has been a vital step in enhancing our

PAYAN BERTRAND’S PILLAR of services focus on its

social and environmental

research and innovation, sourcing and R&D departments

action. Based on this long-

working together with a highly qualified industrial and

term view, we founded

academic network dedicated to increasingly sustainable

PT General Aromatics in

practices and innovations. Topics such as the resource

Banda Aceh, Indonesia

optimisation, enhanced waste management and green

in January 2011. The

extraction are all ongoing projects for Payan Bertrand

venture is supported by the

which ‘focuses on today for tomorrow’.

country’s authorities and focuses specifically on the sustainable production and supply of indigenous

A Patchouli plant in Indonesia

essential oils. This sister company was established in the area devastated by the December 2004 tsunami, improving people’s living conditions and economic stability in Indonesia. It also helps Payan Bertrand ensure the supply of a specific range of premium ingredients, guaranteeing their quality and the a strategic development plan in 2008 which aims,

processes of each product. •

within our supply chains, to improve our knowledge of raw materials and the way they are grown and produced. By sharing experiences between key players, we are developing partnerships and acting

Natchem – Payan Bertrand –

P C Review | MARCH 2018 |



The new compounding laboratory at MANE South Africa, located in Meadowdale, Gauteng

Invested in Africa’s potential

MANE has made extensive investments in its team and capabilities to ensure the company is fully equipped to meet the needs of African customers. By Abby Vorster


n an ever-changing world, olfaction is

ensure its customers’ products are more insight

a difficult notion to grasp. In Africa, it is

orientated and tailored to consumers’ tastes

particularly challenging because consumer

and preferences.

preferences differ from one region to the next

African markets are hand wash markets, through

and the weather. Yet MANE has overcome this

our studies we have established that long-lasting

challenge with its strategic close to market focus.

fragrance is key. This is because there is a strong

Over the past 18 months, the company has invested significantly in its presence, expertise and capabilities on the African continent. MANE Ivory Coast is now fully operational, including sales and administrative offices, and a fragrance R&D centre that is equipped with application laboratories and evaluation cabins. Being closer to the market is part of the company’s primary focus to understand not only its clients’ needs but also final consumers’ expectations.

Being closer to the market is part of the company’s primary focus 32

‘While it is common knowledge that most

and are influenced by aspects such as religion

| MARCH 2018 | P C Review

Growth that is insight driven Consumer insight studies are also high on MANE’s agenda. Antoine Ruaz, new business development manager at MANE South Africa says the company is carrying out various studies in South Africa and in the East and Western parts of Africa to

The equipment in the MANE South Africa’s soap studio used to produce samples for customers



link between cleanliness and freshness and how this impacts

Virginie Pons and Clementine

MANE won three accolades at the Abihpec Beauty Brazil Awards, hosted in São Paulo in October 2017. L’Occitane au Brésil won with Cumaru in the category Masculine Perfumery and with Caju Moisturising Firming Cream in the category Body Care. Both products were fragranced by MANE’s Sophie Truitard. In the Perfumer category, she was also awarded top prize for Red Denim from Forum (Passion).

social status. For example, in Lagos, Nigeria, humidity levels are high. Therefore, fragrance molecules in hand wash detergent need to be powerful enough to mask the musty odour in clothing,’ says Ruaz.

Girard, who enhance the company’s ability to tailor solutions to its customers’ needs. MANE South

Africa is home to

Extensive R&D and marketing expertise

evaluation cabins, a new compounding

In South Africa, MANE has established a

laboratory and state of the art

market leading presence over the past

gas chromatography mass

16 years supplying fragrances used in

spectrometry equipment

deodorants, fine fragrances and air

to separate, identify and

fresheners, as well as in hair, skin, bath and

quantify complex chemical

body care products. This office is still under

compositions. This office also

the same leadership as when it was first

has a fully equipped soap

launched with Olivier Cebe.

studio to produce bar soaps

To ensure a high level of expertise within the

fragranced with various MANE

South African office, which provides technical

creations, which are provided to customers for

and R&D support to the other MANE locations

trial purposes. •

MANE South Africa’s evaluation cabins

on the African continent, Cebe and Ruaz have established a formidable team. This includes


a marketing team and two new perfumers






















Photographer Didier D. Daarwin Getty Images/Image Source - Getty Images/Athit Perawongmetha.


P C Review | MARCH 2018 |




dressed up for success Are you interested in a perfumer’s perspective on trending fragrance ingredients? Three perfumery experts from Sozio take P C Review on an olfactive journey on the signature, sensual, fresh and crisp notes of hazelnut, mint and blueberry.

D These notes are not only straight and identifiable, but also composed of many different facets

fragrance launches with a freshness that is followed by lasting marine and cologne accords. Fabienne Bourcier, senior perfumer at Sozio, tells us more about this comeback to mint. ‘I have worked on many client projects requiring a cold, iced or frosted effect in their perfumes.

erived from the alliance

To achieve this, the major component is mint!

between edible and

What I particularly like when working with these

green in feminine

kinds of notes is they are not only straight and


identifiable, but also composed of many

hazelnut is everywhere

different facets. For example, in some

in new launches.

of the latest launches, Hugo Iced was

Emmanuelle Juilliart,

created around a green and vegetal mint

senior perfumer at

to give a mint leaf or mint tea effect that

Sozio, talks about this new ingredient.

is almost true to life. In Terra Glacialis from


‘Womanity by Mugler was the first perfume I noticed with


nu ell e Juill


t ar

l’Artisan Parfumeur the mint brings a frosted note. I really love this perfume because I find the

iced accord interesting; the mint is not utilised

a hazelnut note. This iconic fragrance with an

as a common cheap menthol fragrance but is

overdose of hazelnut starts with a green fig top

rather accompanied by an earthy woody side

note that moves onto a hazelnut facet when the

that almost emits a wet effect. This gives depth

dry woody base settles. The confusion between

and quality to the perfume. More perfumes are

fig and hazelnut notes is due to a similar accord

also playing with temperature, which could be

construction, based on a green note associated

a reason for the comeback of mint. Indeed, the

with a milky one. However, for the hazelnut effect,

Mugler perfume Kryptomint unveils a refreshing

we add an edible and roasted facet. Hazelnut has

top note delivered by a white mint with a shade

also been played sweeter in Olympea by Paco

of liquorice and quickly evolves into a warm and

Rabanne. It is dressed in an oriental and floral

balmy base. This can be considered an upgrade

accord, which rounds the shrill green starting

of the hot and cold contrast of the famous Cartier

notes. On the contrary, in This is Her! By Zadig &

perfume, Roadster, which is a truly beautiful

Voltaire, the hazelnut note is greener yet supported

creation based on a minty overdose and a woody

by a creamy and milky accord, combined with a

ambery base,’ Bourcier explains.

cocktail of spices making it a great addition and a


ie ab

n n e B ou rc

sumptuous skin perfume. This is almost identical to

The new aldehyde

the last opus of Black Opium, Floral Shock flanker,

With the return of floral perfumes and the

where an overdose of hazelnut is noted, blended

trend around rose, the spotlight

with a very edible milky heart while retaining a

is on blackcurrant in new

ier fresh and crisp top note. I find hazelnut is a

good compromise for an edible perfume in which we want to relieve the top notes

launches. Enabling creators to modernise classic floral perfumes, blackcurrant

whilst keeping a note with an edible

pairs especially well with

connotation,’ says Juilliart.

rose, violet and white flowers, most recently

Crisp, cold and inviting

used in Chanel’s, Gabrielle.

Mint is trendy regardless of what type

Caroline Malléjac, senior

is used, be it spearmint, peppermint or pennyroyal. It modernises new masculine


| MARCH 2018 | P C Review

perfumer at Sozio, gives her point of view on this fashionable fruit.


ro l i n

e M all é




‘Blackcurrant is a fruity note that is more conceptual than a traditional red fruit like strawberry or raspberry. It

Sozio’s products and fragrance ingredients are available in South Africa from Millchem.

is subtle, making it hard to distinguish and giving it a more sophisticated effect in

to the top notes of fragrances to support bergamot for example, or even to substitute a citrus accord with too many technical connotations. This

is how it is used in Mademoiselle Rochas

any composition. The candle Baies by Dyptique

and Because it’s You by Armani. In Gabrielle by

is the perfect symbol of the blackcurrant scent

Armani, it modernises and makes the white floral

composed by perfumery. Of course, this note is

accord sparkle. I consider blackcurrant the new

more faceted and in smaller quantities in fine

aldehyde, permitting a modern twist on rose

fragrances. I enjoy working with blackcurrant

or jasmine.’ •

notes in personal care or in candles, particularly to give relief to heavy notes that can be difficult to transmit in these kinds of applications. Blackcurrant can also bring some freshness

Millchem – Sozio –

P C Review | MARCH 2018 |



Talking dirty – pollution The winning article in this year’s Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review/ Coschem Diploma in Cosmetic Science essay competition is written by Nikita Venter. As the writer of the top essay, Venter’s work is published in this Student Focus and she’s received a prize sponsored by the magazine.


ollution, a fashionable ‘swearword’, has

anti-pollution discussions emerged a few years

left many an opportunity for cosmetic

ago, the topic has only just become established

chemists to combat its effects. In 2016,

in the cosmetics industry. So consumers need to

Mintel stated that consumers are aware

gain trust in the efficacy of the finished product.

that air pollution is affecting both their skin

Consumer trust plays an obvious role in the sales

and hair, which has resulted in many new anti-

of a product, which well-established brands enjoy.

pollution ingredients launched on the market.

While these brands may enjoy a head-start in this

According to Euromonitor International, China,

new category, there is currently no standardised

India and Pakistan contain cities with the highest

method to quantify the efficacy of an anti-pollution

levels of pollution in the world, which no doubt

product. Where sunblock uses SPF testing, a

has pioneered the development of anti-pollution

standardised measure of efficacy is yet to be

cosmetics. Interestingly enough, in China, health

developed for anti-pollution products.

concerns are driving sales, whereas Westerners are more concerned with premature skin ageing. There are countless opportunities for developers

Your choice of ingredients is key when developing an anti-pollution product. You must think of the mechanism of action of the active

and brand owners, but where to start? It remains

ingredient to drive your marketing. Lipotec’s

obvious that planning plays an essential role.

Pollushield contains chelating and free-radical

Before thinking of finished products, one needs

scavenging properties, binding to all the pollutants

to think of a target market. People living in rural

on the skin and getting rid of reactive oxygen

areas won’t be placing much importance on anti-

species. Covestro’s Baycusan is a film former and

pollution cosmetics, whereas protection against

prevents pollutant particles from being absorbed.

the sun would be a winning formula for them. If you

The increasing demand for green products is

want a product that sells, look at urbanised areas,

another point to consider. The green shift can easily

and even go as far as heavy industrialised ones.

be accommodated with plant extracts, vitamins and antioxidants with anti-pollution properties.

Pollution types on the radar

For anti-pollution hair care products, Provital’s

Countless products on the market protect against

Keracyn 73400 is an antioxidant derived from

air pollution, but we can take it a step further and

artichokes that protects the cuticle. Croda’s

investigate chemical pollution. Perhaps one can

Heliogenol is a sunflower extract that protects hair

formulate a product that can be multifunctional

with its anti-oxidative activities.

in the sense that it caters for protection against


more than one type of pollution. Is a specific

Claims and consumer groups

age or ethnic group being targeted? Once the

When it comes to claims, Mintel says many brands

obvious questions have been answered, the

don’t claim anti-pollution on their packaging.

formulator or brand owner needs to decide exactly

Even though we cannot always make consumers

| MARCH 2018 | P C Review

what function their product

understand the science behind the concept,

needs to serve. Taking a look at

word-play within the name of the product is the

products on shelf, these either

way to go. A great example is Prevage City Smart

provide protection or a means

by Elizabeth Arden, which includes UV protection

of treatment. For anti-pollution

and anti-pollution benefits. While the UV Plus Anti-

products, prevention or treatment

Pollution Broad Spectrum SPF 50 Tinted Sunscreen

benefits, or a combination of both

by Clarins is a mouthful it does tell the consumer

could work

the product is multifunctional. Shu Uemera’s Urban

In western markets consumers

Moisture Hydro Nourishing Shampoo also clearly

demand multifunctional products,

has it all in its name. Use the word ‘urban’ on your

so keep this in mind when

packaging, and its guaranteed

formulating. Remember while

consumers will understand your


meets cosmetics product’s function. For hair care, Nexxus

opportunity that needs

City Shield Conditioner also gets it right.

to be seized, as the

Want to go natural? Ren clean skincare’s

statistics speak for

Anti-Pollution Mist not only clearly states

themselves: sun

the product’s use, but the free from claims

care is a huge

substantiate its naturalness. South Africa’s

category and

African Extracts Advantage Intensive Day

product sales are

Cream contains bio-active Rooibos and

predicted to rise.

plant extracts and clearly states on the packaging: ‘it reduces signs of ageing

All eyes on Africa

and protects against environmental stress’.

All this talk about pollution, but no mention

South Africa contains a wealth of Ethnic diversity, and we have diverse

of the opportunities available in Africa

botanicals in our backyard. This provides

– our very own stunning continent, rich

an opportunity for us to stick to our

in culture and biodiversity, and what’s

roots and make the most of the African

more, all of this is in our backyard. With

botanical theme, to address consumers

anti-pollution being the hot topic, the

pigmentation and natural hair care needs.

Ethnic market is ripe for the taking. It

Partner studio editor of the Huffington

would be a shame not to explore every

Post, Janine Jellars, wrote in an article

angle – you can compare it to having

on the Ethnic hair category that black

a swimming pool that you never use.

consumers in South Africa spend up to

A hot summer’s day comes around,

six times more on hair care products than

you aren’t in the mood for a swim, yet

white consumers. She also stated the

you listen jealously to the neighbours

Ethnic hair care market is shifting towards

splashing about whilst the braai is on

a natural theme.

the go. In the February 2017 edition

There are many international examples

of P&C Review, Ingredion’s Claudia

of anti-pollution hair care products, like

Fiannaca stated, ‘within the next 10

Shu Uemera’s Urban Moisture Hydro

years, the African beauty market will be

Nourishing Shampoo, Nexxus’ City Shield

traction in the male grooming market.

increasing two-fold, showing a projected

Conditioner. And Anti-Pollution Frequent

Ponds Men Pollution Out cleanser contains

annual growth of five to 10 percent’. The

Use Shampoo by J.F. Lazartigue. For the

a charcoal mask and coffee bean scrubs

expected worth of the African beauty

African Ethnic market, this is most certainly

to combat pollution. Eisenberg Paris has

and personal care market in 2017 was

an area of great opportunity for new

a complete collection aimed at anti-

US$13.2 billion, showing the market should

product development.

pollution for men and ClarinsMen Super

not be underestimated.

Anti-pollution products are also gaining

Africa’s Ethnic diversity creates a

Moisture Balm is yet another example of a

platform to explore relevant anti-pollution

male grooming anti-pollution product.

skin and hair care products. But remember

Remember pollution does not

– you need to understand the market

discriminate. Children are just as exposed

before launching something new. Ethnic

as adults. A parent that is knowledgeable

groups are not perturbed by ageing, but

on the importance of UV protection will

rather pigmentation, which is also caused

most certainly be well-informed

by pollution.

about pollution protection. So

There are many gaps that can still be

why not tie anti-pollution into

filled, and innovation will most certainly

a sunblock formulated

pave the way. •

for children? It is an

ABOUT Nikita Venter is a sales representative at Savannah Fine Chemicals where she works across all industries with pharmaceuticals being her biggest portfolio. She has completed Module 1 of the Coschem Diploma in Cosmetic Science and has an honours degree in Zoology. Before joining Savannah two years ago, Venter worked for the Social Insects Research Group at the University of Pretoria. Her research focused on honeybees, yet after developing a deathly bee allergy, she made a positive career change.

P C Review | MARCH 2018 |



Natural mushroom enzyme for mild exfoliation Healthy skin is characterised by efficient cell renewal. Exfoliation, be it chemical, mechanical or enzymatic, helps the cell renewal process but some types are harsher on the skin than others. Lipotec has developed an active botanical ingredient that is effective yet mild on skin. By Alicia Gimenez, Olga Laporta, Marie Ollagnier, Laia González, Raquel Delgado


esquamation is necessary

Tight control

Mushroom enzyme

for effective skin renewal.

The endogenous enzymes responsible for

Some organisms have been found to

A variety of endogenous

natural desquamation in the epidermis

produce proteases that mimic skin’s

proteases breakdown cell-

are pH-dependent, so their activity varies

natural enzymes, making them interesting

cell junctions in the epidermis, allowing

based on location. The epidermis exhibits

candidates for topical exfoliants. Actizyme

dead cells to desquamate. Lipotec’s

a pH gradient from about pH 7.4 at the

advanced botanical ingredient is a fungi-

Actizyme advanced botanical ingredient,

basal layer to around pH 5.5 at the stratum

derived protease that mimics cathepsin D,

available in South Africa from Savannah

corneum (SC) surface1.

as it exhibits a pH activity profile very similar

Fine Chemicals, contains a fungi-derived

to that of the endogenous enzyme.

protease that mimics a key epidermal protein in exfoliation. When applied to skin, it helps improve the complexion with a brightening effect. Cell renewal is slowed down by the ageing process and exposure to wind, air pollution, heat and sunlight or the use of detergents, resulting in dull and dry skin. Exfoliation removes pigmented cells that accumulate on skin’s surface. It also increases skin’s clarity and gives it a healthy looking glow. One form of exfoliation is chemical

When formulated in an acidic buffer

Application of the active ingredient at one and five percent proved to increase cell turnover by 11.1 and 16.4 percent

and applied on skin, the enzyme begins exfoliation. As the skin’s natural buffering capacity raises its pH, it reaches deeper layers of the SC and becomes inactive. Consequently, exfoliation is maintained specifically at the SC surface. This effective and controlled exfoliation produces little irritation and skin barrier disruption compared to AHAs. The brightening efficacy of this natural exfoliant has been tested on photoptye IV skins with notable results.

peeling where acids are applied on the

Irritation and damage control

skin to reduce cohesion between the corneocytes. Suitable acids include alpha-

In the deepest layers of the SC, serine

The epidermis on the volar forearm of 10

hydroxy acids (AHAs) such as glycolic or

proteases participate in the degradation

volunteers (aged between 20 and 50) was

lactic acid, or beta hydroxy acids (BHAs)

of intercellular junctions as their optimal

stained with the fluorescent dye, dansyl

like salicylic acid. The main disadvantage

activity is at neutral pH2. In contrast,

chloride. Actizyme advanced botanical

of chemical peeling is skin irritation.

cysteine and aspartic proteases are active

ingredient was applied twice a day.

Enzymatic exfoliation offers a gentler

in an acidic environment promoting

Removal of the stain was monitored daily

approach with minor risk of irritation. This

desquamation in the most superficial SC.

using a UV light until complete elimination

process is based on the application of

Cathepsin D is an aspartic protease

and changes in cell renewal were

proteases that break cell-cell interactions

that is active at acidic pH between 3.5

calculated in comparison to untreated

and promote desquamation.

and 5.0. It can break corneodesmosomes

skin (control).

in the low pH environment of the SC Figure 1: Measurement of induced skin reactivity

surface, causing desquamation. However, in deeper layers

cell turnover by 11.1 and 16.4 percent

(with a higher pH) it

respectively, with these values being

cannot degrade the

statistically significant (p<0.05).

junctions between


| MARCH 2018 | P C Review

Application of the active ingredient at one and five percent proved to increase

In order to confirm the absence of side

cells as efficiently.

effects, higher doses than required for

The pH-activity profile

exfoliation were used and compared to

and the location of

the application of an AHA. Volunteers

this enzyme limit its

(aged between 35 and 65) applied 15 or

activity specifically to

30 percent Actizyme advanced botanical

the superficial layers

ingredient, or eight percent lactic acid

of the SC.

to half the face. After four weeks, the


volunteers’ changes in skin sensitivity to

the face and a placebo cream on the

topical irritants or in the barrier function

other half.

were assessed.

Figure 2: High resolution photographs taken of a volunteer before (day 0) and after (day 30) the treatment

Evaluation of skin luminance (L*) was

For skin redness, reactivity to Balsam

performed using a spectrophotometer.

of Peru, a known topical irritant, was

This was also used to calculate individual

determined before and after product use.

typological angle values, which show

In Figure 1, the colour value a* indicates

the degree of pigmentation. The results

redness and was obtained as an indicator

revealed an increase in L* and ITA° –

of skin erythema using chromametry. The

data associated with a brighter and less

active ingredient produced little irritation

pigmented skin.

compared to a lower concentration of lactic acid. To determine damage to barrier function, changes in the integrity of the

High resolution images of volunteers also showed changes in skin complexion (see

cathepsin D and offers an effective

Figure 2).

method of exfoliation when applied

A clearer skin complexion was

skin barrier were assessed by measuring

unanimously perceived by volunteers. All of

transepidermal water loss (TEWL) with an

the subjects (100 percent) assigned the top

evaporimeter. The application of increasing

two scores (agree and strongly agree) to

concentrations of Actizyme advanced

the affirmations ‘visible lightening effect on

botanical ingredient resulted in minimal

skin’ and ‘face appeared more luminous’

changes in TEWL compared to lactic acid.

in a self-evaluation questionnaire.

Boosting skin clarity

efficacy proven in vivo, Actizyme advanced

A panel of 21 Indian volunteers (aged

botanical ingredient reconfirms the role of

between 19 and 46) with skin phototype

effective desquamation and epidermal

IV applied a cream containing two

renewal to achieve a radiant complexion.

percent Actizyme GL advanced botanical

This fungi-derived enzyme mimics the

ingredient twice a day for 30 days on half

activity profile of the endogenous protease

With its mechanism of action and

with an acidic buffer, increasing the cell renewal rate in vivo. •

Lipotec – Savannah Fine Chemicals – REFERENCES: 1. Schmid-Wendtner MH, Korting HC. The pH of the skin surface and its impact on the barrier function. Skin Pharmacol Physiol. 19(6):296-302, 2006. 2. Caubet C, Jonca N, Brattsand M, Guerrin M, et al. Degradation of corneodesmosome proteins by two serine proteases of the kallikrein family, SCTE/KLK5/hK5 and SCCE/ KLK7/hK7. J. Invest. Dermatol. 122(5): 1235-1244 (2004).

Gentle exfoliation to light up the skin NEW TEST Controlled and effective desquamation without side effects Brightened tone in skin phototype (Fitzpatrick) IV A more luminous face perceived by 100% of volunteers 0 days

30 days

SAVANNAH Fine Chemicals (Pty) Ltd Tel: +27 (11) 856 4500 I E-mail: All trademarks owned by The Lubrizol Corporation or its affiliates. © 2015, 2018 The Lubrizol Corporation.

P C Review | MARCH 2018 |



Surprise the senses with Evonik

Trendy textures improve how consumers experience products. They add a fun element to product usage and can even be a key driver of consumer loyalty. Evonik has created a series of texture-centric demos using its unique ingredient and R&D expertise. Table 1: Evonik’s ingredients to obtain innovative textures


Key sensory ingredients

Luxurious Whipped Cream

Abil Care XL 80

Tegosoft SH

Transformation Cooling Balm

Abil EM 180

Tegosoft SH

Melting Day Shield SPF20

Abil EM 180

Tegosoft SH

Magic Cream to Milk

Abil EM 180

Abil Wax 9801

Caring Oil Release Cream

Tego Care 450

Tegosoft DEC

Oil Release SPF50 Lotion

Tego Care PBS 6

Tegosoft DEC

Seize the opportunity Online interest is instantaneous and spreads widely thanks to the internet and social media. Because products that



onsumers’ focus is shifting. The lingering impact of the recession and a rising demand for authenticity mean they want to impress less through ownership and

share more through experiences. Brands, suppliers and

with their users, using trendy textures in your innovative formulations can create interest

around your products, offer newness and fun According to Euromonitor experiences and drive consumer loyalty, ensuring International’s online survey results, 30 percent of your products feature in their beauty regimens. consumers buy skin care Evonik has created a number of texture‘to try something centric demos using key sensory ingredients new’.

technology companies have taken notice, making haptics more

(see Table 1). Its Shape Memory W/O Gel has a

self-levelling ability that gives the impression of a ‘fresh

prominent than ever. According to TechTarget, haptics is ‘the science

start’ before each use. The transformative Magic Cream to

of applying touch or a tactile sensation and control to interaction with

Milk skin care concept uses milk-like droplets that ‘break’ when

computer applications’.

applied to skin, releasing moisturising and brightening actives.

Tactile experiences are highly relevant in the beauty and personal

The company has also developed a Luxurious Whipped

care space. Formulators and brands are creating new and interesting

Cream, which has a creamy texture and soft skin feel, and its

textures in products to give consumers an enhanced level of

Transformation Cooling Balm has a solid-like consistency and

engagement. Novel textures, often inspired by the Asian market,

perceived cooling effect upon application. •

include ice cream and mousse concepts that provide an emotional and sensorial connection with products.

including improvement of hair gloss

amino acid with

engage with the senses build a stronger connection


| MARCH 2018 | P C Review

Evonik –


March 2018 | Volume 44 | Number 3

Automation at the end of the line

Do your bit to

recycle metal cans

Augmented Reality helps you connect with consumers



The new screw-on classic range of polypropylene hinge tube closures from RPC Zeller Plastik Zell

Edgy closures designed for pharma and cosmetics


industrial processes. Vibrotech

acquired 48 percent of SEA Vision,

started up in 2005 as a spin-off of

a leading creator of vision and

technicians with 20 years’ experience

inspection systems used in quality

in the pharmaceutical and cosmetics

RPC ZELLER PLASTIK Zell has extended its screw-on

control and anti-counterfeiting.

industries. It has been a consolidated

classic range of polypropylene hinge tube closures with

The operation consolidates years

business partner of the Marchesini

the addition of a 25mm size, available with a matte finish.

of fruitful business between the

Group for years. The take-over of

two companies and is worth €125

a minority share will not change

The new closure joins the existing 50, 40, 35 and 30mm sizes enabling brands and manufacturers to

million and a long-term

Vibrotech’s commercial

create family ranges using a single closure design. Its

strategic agreement.

organisation, as it will

contemporary look meets current market trends for a

SEA Vision’s turnover

continue to work directly

more modern and edgy appearance on shelf.

in 2017 was €32 million

with the marketplace and

Euro and it expects

with other packaging

applications – including the availability of the caps in

this to increase by 40

machinery companies. This

pharma-grade material – the 25mm closure offers an

percent in 2018 because

transaction will also allow

alternative solution to the more traditional screw-on

drug serialisation is

Vibrotech and Marchesini

caps, with the convenience of one-handed opening.

Ideal for personal care and pharmaceutical

The classic 25mm closure is suitable for both

mandatory in the EU, USA and China

to strengthen their businesses in line

and now also in Brazil, Russia and

with Industry 4.0. In the packaging

laminate and plastic tubes and can be specified with

North Africa.

world, where processes are becoming

a glossy finish. It offers a choice of orifice sizes of 1.5,

more automated and advanced

three and five millimetres, and can be used for a wide

percent of Tuscan manufacturer,

robotics takes the lead, systems

range of products such as creams, gels shampoos and

Vibrotech, which makes infeed and

that provide sorted and positioned

toothpastes including for promotional packs, travel packs

positioning systems for automated

components are an absolute must.

under 100mℓ and hotel amenities.

The group has also acquired 40

Why it matters to recycle metal SOUTH AFRICANS USED more than

people to not only think about the quantity

that gets thrown into the recycling bag, the

198 000t of metal cans, foil trays and

of their recycling but also quality.

higher the value will be for the collectors

aerosols during 2016. MetPac-SA,

‘The metals packaging industry has

and the recyclers. For this reason, we are

the material recovery organisation

managed to develop a true circular

reminding residents try to clean out their

representing the steel, tinplate and

economy whereby material collected and

cans as much as possible before recycling

aluminium packaging industries in South

recycled, is used to produce new products

them. Because South Africa is a water-

Africa, is reminding the country, recycling

at a far lower cost to the environment than

scarce country, you should use your used

metals matters to the thousands of schools,

making them from raw materials. Every

dishwashing-up water and not clean tap

collectors and convertors that earn a living

time metal passes through the recycling

water. Every can that is recycled ends

from recycling this material.

loop, the benefits are repeated, again and

up making a big difference in the end,’

again,’ she explains.

Bezuidenhout concludes.

‘Metal packaging is one of the world’s most valuable materials for collectors

When recycling aerosols, don’t pierce,

and recyclers. This packaging material

crush or flatten aerosols before recycling.

continues to be in high demand and

Detach any loose parts, such as the plastic

includes cooldrink cans, food tins

lid, and dispose of it with

(including pet food), foil trays, empty

the rest of your rubbish.

aerosols canisters, metal bottle tops and

The plastic nozzle is

foil wrap,’ says Delanie Bezuidenhout, CEO

removed during the

of Metpac-SA.

recycling process.

According to figures released by

‘It is important

Packaging SA, for the past five years,

to remember that

metals packaging has consistently

both the quality

outperformed glass, paper and plastic

and quantity of the

by recording the highest recovery rate

materials that enter

and diversion from landfill. Whilst South

our waste stream

Africans have an already impressive track

impact the value.

record when it comes to recycling their

The cleaner the

metal cans, MetPac-SA is now appealing to

food or drink can


| MARCH 2018 | Packaging Review

Recycling metal packaging helps save valuable and scarce natural resources, energy and greenhouse gas emissions. When recycling aerosols, ensure the canister is completely empty


The future with ARenabled packaging IN THEORY, AUGMENTED reality (AR) could allow brand owners and marketers to add a virtual layer of communication and promotional messaging to their packaging. But what is the difference between AR and virtual reality (VR)? Pyrotec PackMedia explains. AR is technology that adds an extra layer of digital content to your view of the real world, when

Siyakha celebrates its New Exporter of the Year accolade at the awards ceremony

observed through a device that is AR-enabled (such as a smart phone with the relevant app or in-built capabilities). Pokémon Go is a well-known example of augmented reality – offered in the form of a free-to-play game. VR, on the other hand, creates an entirely new threedimensional digital environment and then immerses the viewer in this environment through a VR device. As smartphones grow more sophisticated, the mainstream potential of AR is growing When viewed through a mobile device with AR capabilities, product packaging could carry an interactive digital overlay that could bring products to life and enable the consumer to gain an entirely new perspective on the product. According to Pyrotec PackMedia, it is worth keeping an eye on developments in the AR field and other new digital technologies that could take packaging and on-pack

Siyakha named New Exporter of the Year THE DURBAN CHAMBER of Commerce and Industry, in partnership with Transnet Port Terminals and other strategic partners commended the province’s successful exporters at an awards ceremony late last year. The Exporter of The Year Awards, held at the Durban International Convention Centre, recognise role players in exports. They encourage new entrants and help existing exporters grow their businesses and develop new markets.

communication by storm this year and beyond.

Siyakha Imperial Printing Co. (Siyakha) has been expanding

Using AR glasses, consumers will be able to enjoy unique experiences with enabled brands

the exports side of its business and for its efforts, was announced the winner of the New Exporter category. ‘As in any business, there are always challenges and a need to stand out in the marketplace. At Siyakha we accomplish this through constant cost-effective innovation. We pride ourselves in being at the forefront of label printing and this has been what has kept us progressing, not only in South Africa, but globally,’ says Jessica Busa, a representative at Siyakha. She says showcasing proudly South African packaging internationally is the company’s greatest driver for growth. ‘This is why we look forward to expanding our export market division. Being recognised in this platform definitely proves that our company has the capacity and capability to export internationally on a successful level.’

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Packaging Review | MARCH 2018 |



Business benefits of

print and apply labelling Do you want to reduce labour and production costs and implement faster, more reliable and accurate labelling solutions? Pyrotec PackMark offers a range of endof-line print and apply solutions for labelling products and cartons.


hese print and apply


systems create and attach labels

directly onto products or packaging whilst still on the conveyor system. As

The 2200 Series boasts the following functionality to aid traceability:

self-contained units, they combine sturdy printers with sensitive automatic label applicators, ensuring

PackMark offers a versatile range of

labels can be printed in a high-quality,

print and apply solutions.

legible format and applied immediately and precisely on any face of a product. Not only will manufacturers do

A CLOSER LOOK The 2200 Series provides reliability,

away with the inconvenience and

efficiency and ease of use,

expense of pre-printed labels, but the

even in the most demanding

speed, accuracy and reliability of the

environments. Key benefits include

application will also save time and drive

a wide range of interchangeable

down labour costs.

applicators, optimised operational

As a supplier of market leading, high-performance machinery, Pyrotec

• compliant ANSI grade A/B codes even at the highest application speed • optional barcode scanner ensures 100 percent of cases leave the factory with a readable barcode • high-speed, real-time data generation support, including linear and 2D barcodes, graphics or serialisation • CoLOS software solutions ensure product data integrity, central data management and easy connection to existing enterprise database.

intervention and an unparalleled application rate.

The 2200 Pallet offers one- or two-sided pallet labelling speeds of up to 120 pallets per hour. It takes print and apply to the next stage of evolution, giving you optimised operational intervention and unparalleled reliability. The unique compact design and robust swing arm applicator make this machine a perfect long-term investment. It’s ideal for fast-paced environments – a simple media path allows operators to reload the label and ribbon rolls in less than 40 seconds. It also produces fully compliant ANSI grade A/B codes, even at the highest application speed. CimJet Label Printer Applicators offer quality printing, exceptional reliability and outstanding durability in the toughest manufacturing environments. The accurate, clear, crisp codes and 100 percent readable barcodes – which meet GS1 (UCC-EAN) standards – enable superior visibility within your supply chain. •

Pyrotec PackMark –


Pyrotec PackMark’s 2200 Series installed on a packing line

| MARCH 2018 | Packaging Review


RELIABILITY 2200 SERIES - Print & Apply Labeller



Operators can reload label and ribbon rolls in less than 40 seconds

Designed to be over 95% recyclable

Efficient 1774mm - 2339mm

560m ribbon and label rolls compared with the market standard of 450m to reduce line stoppages by 25%


Various print engines and applicators available to suit your requirements

m 7m



Compliant ANSI grade A/B codes even at the highest application speed




CALL US TO HELP YOU SAVE TIME & COST! Cape Town 021 787 9600

Johannesburg 011 611 1820

Durban 031 700 1481

Port Elizabeth 041 487 0601



Machines to

automate your processes The Marchesini Group has expanded its solutions for automated cosmetics and pharma packaging. It has also established a new cosmetics division as part of its growth strategy.


o market its new offerings to global consumers, the group will take part in international packaging industry

trade shows, including Cosmopack Bologna (Italy) from 15 to 18 March, Ipack IMA in Milan (Italy) from 29 May to 1 June and Achema in Frankfurt (Germany) from 11 to 15 June. At Cosmopack, the Marchesini Group will demo an innovative end-of-line jar packaging system and five stand-alone machines by Dumek. It will also market its new cosmetics division that is situated near its headquarters in Pianoro (Italy). This business unit is set to make Marchesini even more competitive, with the group earmarking cosmetics as a key industry for growth. Marchesini’s machinery and equipment is available in South Africa from

Marchesini’s Farplus C is an automatic machine suitable for overwrapping cartons and/or regular shaped single or bundled products in a six-sided complete wrap with lateral envelope folds

The MAV 60 is an automatic alternated-

Dumek technologies. The Melter 120 mixes, distributes and stores products and helps the turbo-

MGSA Consulting.


The turbo-emulsifiers are managed and programmed using software that exploits

perfumes of all shapes and sizes, to dot seal

emulsifiers in one of the heating phases,

and tear tape.

be it watery or fatty. When equipped with

The Farplus C and MAV 60 are connected

a special mixing system, it can prepare

motion machine with a robotic product

to each other by a Robocombi, which

certain cosmetics that don’t require

infeed and a conveyor system that stands

moves the incoming box onto the infeed

the more sophisticated functions of the

the carton upright. These new features

belt that conveys it to the end wrapping

turbo emulsifiers.

improve its speed and ergonomics.

station. Once on the belt, the carton is

Farplus C is an automatic wrapper

automatically positioned and pushed

available in standard and optimised

against the film, which is wrapped around

versions. The standard option has side

it by a comb drive. This precise functionality

guiding belts while guiding plates are

enables other processes and prevents

included on the optimised version

cartons from touching one another.

to package cosmetics with the dotseal system.


Farplus C is an automatic wrapper available in standard and optimised versions The TL 132 unit dissolves and

Marchesini also offers three turbo-emulsifiers

homogenises the product (with an in-line

ensures precision and delicacy in product

from the Dumek brand. These include Turbo-

or recirculation system), which is perfect for

handling and can handle unusually shaped

Mek with capacity of 25, 200 and 600ℓ; a

processing cold emulsions without using a

products. The Farplus C also has a robotic

Melter 120 and a homogeniser/dissolver

vacuum. Thanks to its trolley structure, the

product infeed and a product bypass

TL 132. The Turbo-Mek vacuum turbo-

unit offers ease of use and versatility, so it

system outside the machine to ensure non-

emulsifiers are designed to process liquid

can be moved around to interface it with

stop production, reaching 80 packages

and creamy products such as emulsions,

other containers. •

per minute. This wrapper is excellent for

serums, oils, balms, gels and lotions.

processing cosmetics. It can handle with

Special versions of these machines can

top quality a variety of closure methods from

process makeup products like mascara and

standard closure for individually packed

foundation, hair dyes, toothpaste and mud

products and grouped products such as

or clay products.

The automatic infeed of the MAV 60


| MARCH 2018 | Packaging Review

Marchesini Group – MGSA Consulting –


Efficiency is the distinctive factor that marks our approach to the packaging industry, from studying customersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; specific needs to providing competitive solutions and personal after sales services.

MARCHESINI GROUP. WE MAKE THE DIFFERENCE. Tel. +27 (0)11 958 0412 Mobile +27 (0) 82 460 2766




Diploma awards and

AGM highlights

February is always a busy month for Coschem. The prize giving dinner for the Diploma in Cosmetic Science students took place on 5 February and its AGM on 9 February.


his year’s prize giving dinner for

efficient within your company and make

went to Christelene Visser. Patricia Kruger

the cosmetic science diploma

magic in the industry.’

from Sensient South Africa was present

students marked the end of an era

Norman Sanan, one of the original

at the prize giving to the award to Visser.

for education at The Society of Cosmetic

founding members of Coschem, was also

She said it takes a special person to be

Chemists (Coschem). Jill Gardiner has

present at the awards. He congratulated

creative, connect the dots and make their

officially stepped down as the education

Jill and Roy Gardiner on being outstanding

presentation engaging and fun. Patricia

officer, handing over the reins to Kudzai

educators and told the students they are

was also excited to see so many young

Gwazira (ex-Bliss Chemicals), who Jill will

part of a great and significant movement

and unfamiliar faces at the prize giving

mentor for the year.

in the South African cosmetics industry.

dinner, which means the industry will be

Addressing the students, lecturers

welcoming a lot more ‘young blood’ in the

and other special guests for the last time


at Gino’s Restaurant in Robertsham,

Melissa Govender was named the Top

Johannesburg, Jill said the students have

Module 1 Student.

years to come.


taught her the importance of having

Megan Bennett of Indigo Brands won

a sense of humour. She reminded the

the Jill Gardiner Award as the Top Module

networking, a new president and two

students to be proud of their diploma – a

2 Student. She also won the Norman

new council members were some of the

qualification that has become sought

Sanan Award for the Top Module 2

highlights from Coschem’s annual general

after in the cosmetics industry.

Project. Bennett received a cash prize and

meeting (AGM).

Become efficient within your company and make magic in the industry

complimentary ticket to attend the 2018

Gin infusion, sound financials, excellent

Ettiene Retief, the society’s accounting

Coschem Scientific Conference taking

officer from FTR Accounting Services

place on 5 and 6 September at Bytes

reported Coschem is still in a stable

Conference Centre in Midrand, Gauteng.

financial situation with assets exceeding

The P&C Review Essay Award for the

R5 million as at 31 December 2017. ‘The

Module 1 Assignment was presented

society remains an NPO and is still exempt

to Nikita Venter from Savannah Fine

from taxation,’ he reconfirmed.

‘Well done to everyone who has

Chemicals. Venter received a voucher and

completed this multifaceted diploma

her essay has been published in this edition

on the importance of becoming an

that requires critical thinking skills and

of the magazine, on page 36.

active part of the IFSCC to be in the

attention to detail,’ said Jill. ‘You can take the course teachings and become

The Sensient South Africa Most Creative Award for the Top Module 2 Presentation,

Roy also addressed AGM attendees

running to host an IFSCC congress in South Africa in the future. This includes


Roy Gardiner, Kudzai Gwazira and Jill Gardiner


| MARCH 2018 | P C Review

Megan Bennett and Norman Sanan

Christelene Visser and Patricia Kruger

Jill Gardiner and Megan Bennett



COSCHEM’S 2018 OFFICE BEARERS: • Kirsten Scott handed the presidency over to Ivor Zwane • Rene Spada was elected as vice president • Wayne van Wyk was re-elected as honorary secretary

Ettiene Retief

Michael Butt, Wayne van Wyk and Roy Gardiner

• Roy Gardiner was re-elected as honorary treasurer • Kim MacCallum and Samantha Pols were voted onto council as new members • 2018 council includes Amanda Dahl, Charmaine du Preez, Roy Gardiner, Jill Gardiner, Kudzai Gwazira, Patricia Kruger, Kim MacCallum, Ronald Makola, Samantha Pols, Kirsten Scott, Percy Sibanda, Rene Spada, Wayne van Wyk and Ivor Zwane • Erica de Kock was re-nominated to chair the Natal Chapter and Jacques Strydom will now chair the Cape Town Chapter.

Kirsten Scott and Ivor Zwane

Darryl Mostert, Riana Oosthuizen, Bronwen St John-Ayre and Bridget MacDonald

Lynette Swart, Carla Melless and Erika de Kock

Visit for more information about the society, the Coschem Diploma in Cosmetic Science and its upcoming events.

attending and presenting papers at

Ivor Zwane and Samantha Pols

Jill Gardiner and Karen Maier

Zone 1 conferences and having Coschem representation on the IFSCC praesidium. If anyone is interested in presenting at an upcoming IFSCC conference or congress, they are encouraged to send an email to Bridget Macdonald (bridget@coschem. proposing their presentation or research. • David Bass and Veronica Lintner

Percy Sibanda and Liesl Keulder

Module 2 Students who attended the prize giving dinner

Abby Vorster, editor of P&C Review, and Nikita Venter

Module 1 Students who attended the prize giving dinner

P C Review | MARCH 2018 |


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| MARCH 2018 | P C Review




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Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review March 2018  
Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review March 2018  

This edition explores the ins and outs of South Africa’s leading pharma and personal care contract manufacturers. It also covers fine fragra...