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SOUTH AFRICAN PHARMACEUTICAL & COSMETIC REVIEW

January 2018 | Volume 45 | Number 1

www.pharmacos.co.za

Reveal beauty with

Sensient

Innovations

Hair care hotspots to watch in 2018 New pigments and product ideas for colour cosmetics How to control safety and hygiene hazards


passion for pumps

Pharmaceutical Pump Range CIP/Hygienic Pumps Self-draining capability Purified water process pumps Suitable for high or low viscosity

Shear sensitivity liquids Abrasive fluids handling Certified pumps

Verder Pumps SA (Pty) Ltd • Tel.: +27 (0)11 704 7500 • info@verder.co.za • www.verder.co.za


Contents SOUTH AFRICAN PHARMACEUTICAL & COSMETIC REVIEW

January 2018 | Volume 45 | Number 1

w w w.pharmacos.co. za

6 NEWS

BASF partners with Caring4Girls Kosmet database relaunched with free access New body beautifier ingredient from Sederma L’Oréal honours Africa’s women in science Symrise expands rainforest sustainability project

12 PRODUCT NEWS

What’s new in South Africa

16

Ultra Violet

enters the world of beauty

14 EVENTS

18

Highlights from Rotolabel’s pharma open day Reasons to attend the P&C Review conference

18 COLOUR COSMETICS

How to achieve super pigmented formulations Shimmer, sparkle and illuminate with Merck

22 HAIR CARE

Vytrus Biotech addresses hair loss The promise of stronger, healthier hair Focus on trends, scalp care and curl liberation Formulations for new hair care goals in 2018 CIM goes SLES-free with anionic surfactants

Are manufacturers ready for

Industry 4.0?

35

35 INDUSTRY TALK

Are you ready for Industry 4.0?

36  PHARMACEUTICAL FOCUS: EXCIPIENTS

Direct compression and paediatric tablet production API taste-masking with Beneo’s GalenIQ

39 SAFETY & HYGIENE

Introducing SafeAir UV air purifiers Take a proactive approach with Rentokil | Volum January 2018

RICAN SOUTH AF

Better protection for

trendsetting designs

46

41

e 44 | Number

cos.co.za www.pharma

Rotolabel acquirnesew two companies

1

44 Labelling Rotolabel acquires two new businesses Brand protection solutions from Uniprint

47 Industry Talk Up-to-date recycling figures from Plastics|SA

48 ASSOCIATION NEWS  The latest news from Coschem

and SAAFFI records South Africa an increase incling plastics recy

Sorbet Man bags a Gold Pack award

P C Review | JANUARY 2018 |

3


SOUTH AFRICAN PHARMACEUTICAL & COSMETIC REVIEW

From the editor

THE TEAM

Trends to watch in 2018

F

EDITORIAL Editor: Abby Vorster +27 (0)11 877 6038 abby.vorster@newmediapub.co.za Assistant Editor: Aarifah Nosarka +27 (0)11 877 6209 aarifah.nosarka@newmediapub.co.za Layout & Design: Kirsty Thomas

orecasters are saying that naturals,

Probably one of the biggest categories

male grooming, protection and anti-

in our country, hair care continues to be

pollution, masks and the microbiome

a bumper feature in P C Review. Go to

will be among the biggest influencers

page 22 now and discover everything

in 2018. The naturals trend is set to have new

from plant peptides for hair re-growth and

focal points this year with biotechnology,

a new bond multiplier technology to skin

sustainable sourcing and the true benefits

care actives for scalp care and pollution

of natural ingredients at the heart of

protection for hair.

marketing messages to educate and enlighten consumers. Male grooming is fast becoming the

Excipients are covered in this month’s pharmaceutical focus. Turn to page 36 to find out more about the University of

category to watch with David Beckham’s

Barcelona’s research on a particular direct

recent unveiling of his first global grooming

compression lactose grade and how it

brand, HOUSE 99. This complete collection of

contributes to the successful production of

13 innovative products conquers every style

tablets for paediatric patients. We also look

ambition and was created by Beckham in

at a smart taste-masking ingredient that

partnership with L’Oréal Luxe.

helps ensure patient compliance.

Masks are set to become more

In the regular PACKAGING REVIEW

Contributors: Ricard Canadell, García Encarna, O. Expósito, A. Gallego, S. Laplana, Kim MacCallum, M. Mas, Montse Miñarro, Anna Nardi, Josep Negre, Isaac Nofrerías, M. Perez, Pilar Pérez, T. Ruiz, Marc Suñé, Josep Tico, R. Vallecillo ADVERTISING Sales Executive: Carla Melless +27 (0)83 260 6060 carla.melless@newmediapub.co.za Sales Executive: Anita Raath +27 (0)82 976 6541 anita.raath@newmediapub.co.za Sales Executive: Candida Giambo-Kruger +27 (0)71 438 1918 candida.giambo-kruger@newmediapub.co.za INTERNATIONAL SALES Germany/Austria/Switzerland: Eisenacher Medien Erhardt Eisenacher +49 228 249 9860 info@eisenacher-medien.de Italy: Ngcombroker Giacomo Rotunno +39 370 101 4694 g.rotunno@ngcombroker.com Taiwan: Ringier Trade Media Sydney Lai +886 4 2329 7318 sydneylai@ringier.com.hk CIRCULATION

sophisticated this year with products

section on page 41, Aarifah Nosarka predicts

targeting specific concerns. Innovative

a bigger, better and improved industry with

Circulation Manager: Felicity Garbers +27 (0)21 701 1566 felicity.garbers@newmediapub.co.za

examples include micro-channeling patches

recent acquisitions in the labelling and

PUBLISHING TEAM

and self-dissolving micro-needle masks,

printing sectors. This includes Rotolabel’s

General Manager: Dev Naidoo

which are said to feature tiny micro-needles

end-2017 purchase of both S&N Labels and

formed from hyaluronic acid.

Bartrans featured on page 44.

Publishing Manager: Natalie Da Silva +27 (0)11 877 6281 natalie.dasilva@newmediapub.co.za

Colour trends also have a significant

Here’s to a happy and healthy 2018 for all

impact on the industry and the colour

our readers, advertisers and associates. We

cosmetics segment in particular. On page

look forward to covering your developments

16 in this edition of Pharmaceutical

this year so keep in touch by sending an

Cosmetic Review, Sensient Cosmetic

e-mail to abby.vorster@newmediapub.

Technologies discusses how the Pantone

co.za or aarifah.nosarka@

Color of the Year 2018, 18-3838 Ultra Violet,

newmediapub.co.za.

will influence new product development. Our colour cosmetics feature on page

Production Controller: Rae Morrison Art Director: David Kyslinger JOHANNESBURG OFFICE New Media Publishing, Ground floor, Media Park, 69 Kingsway Avenue, Auckland Park, 2092 Tel: +27 (0)11 877 6111, Fax: +27 (0)11 713 9024 POSTAL ADDRESS PO Box 784698, Sandton, Johannesburg, 2146 Published on behalf of Media24 by New Media Publishing (PTY) Ltd. MANAGING DIRECTOR

Enjoy the read!

Aileen Lamb

18 also takes a look at new makeup must

CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER

haves and the ingredients, pigments and

Bridget McCarney

formulation technologies to produce

EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR

these products.

John Psillos NON-EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR Irna van Zyl

EDITORIAL ADVISORY BOARD

HEAD OFFICE New Media House, 19 Bree Street, Cape Town 8001 Tel: +27 (0)21 417 1111, Fax: +27 (0)21 417 1112 Email: newmedia@newmediapub.co.za PO Box 440, Green Point, Cape Town 8051

Consultant, drbaileys.com

Dr Trevor Baillie

Past-President, Society of Cosmetic Chemists SA

Prof Dr Aubrey Parsons

John Knowlton

CEO of the Generic and Biosimilar Medicines of Southern Africa

Professor Emeritus, Faculty of Health Sciences, Nelson Mandela Metropolitan University

Vivian Frittelli P C Review is the official journal of: CTFA - The Cosmetic, Toiletry & Frangrance Association of South Africa GBM - Generic and Biosimilar Medicines of Southern Africa

4

Consultant, Cosmetic Solutions

| JANUARY 2018 | P C Review

Prof N T (Raj) Naidoo COSCHEM - The Society of Cosmetic Chemists of South Africa HPA - The Health Products Association of Southern Africa AMA - The Aerosol Manufacturers’ Association of South Africa

Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review is published by New Media Publishing 11 times a year and circulates to manufacturers, packers and distributors of pharmaceuticals, health products, cosmetics, detergents, soaps, toiletries and allied products. The journal is an up-to-date source of reference for company directors, factory and production managers, marketing executives, engineers, import agents, buyers and research personnel. While precautions have been taken to ensure the accuracy of its contents and information given to readers, neither the editor, publisher, or its agents can accept responsibility for damages or injury which may arise therefrom. All rights reserved. © Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, photocopying, electronic, mechanical or otherwise without the prior written permission of the copyright owners. Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review is printed and bound by CTP Printers - Cape Town. Copyright: all rights reserved. ISSN 0257-8719


Top speakers confirmed for the P C Review 2018

Beauty Trends& Innovations Conference

• Eight beauty and personal care experts in one inspiring day • One unmissable session on how to develop and sustain a social media strategy. Other topics to be presented at the conference: · Creativity in the workplace to drive innovation by John Knowlton – MD, Cosmetic Solutions · Compliance in the South African cosmetics industry by Percy Sibanda – scientific & regulatory affairs advisor, L’Oréal SA · Formulating for Africa’s millennials by Leandri van der Wat – R&D manager, Optiphi Date: Thursday, 22 February 2018 Time: 8:30am until 16:00 Venue: Media Park Auditorium, Auckland Park, Johannesburg, South Africa Book your seat today @ R995 per person including VAT You will receive a full breakdown of the day once you have booked and paid for your ticket as well as a breakdown of all the speakers. Send an email to Natalie.DaSilva@newmediapub.co.za for more information


NEWS

BASF

partners with Caring4Girls

FOCUSED ON KEEPING girls in school, BASF South Africa recently presented a donation of R54 000 to the Imbumba Foundation towards its Caring4Girls sanitary towel distribution initiative. Throughout 2017, BASF employees at different sites collected sanitary pads for schoolgirls as part of an internal fundraising campaign. To match employees’ efforts, BASF added a cash donation of R54 000. A neighbouring township school, Tembisa West Secondary School, was identified by Imbumba Foundation to receive this donation. A presentation ceremony was held at the school where employees from the company and members of the foundation handed over sanitary towels to the young girls. The cash donation will be used to supply the girls with sanitary towels over the next year. Employee volunteering, coupled with BASF South Africa’s CSR programme, is an integral component of the company’s operations throughout the country. ‘Social commitment is an important cornerstone of social cohesion. Our partnership with Imbumba Foundation and the Caring4Girls programme plays a pivotal role in how we can sustainably uplift and contribute to the communities in which we operate,’ says Benoit Fricard, MD of BASF South Africa. Richard Mabaso, founder of Imbumba Foundation, adds: ‘Through the Caring4Girls programme, we are trying to provide a solution to problems that girls from across the world face daily. Right now, over 62 million girls are not in school because they cannot afford feminine hygiene products. On average, two million girls in South Africa will miss five days of school every month. Without hygiene supplies, girls stop going to school during their period and eventually fall behind and drop out. Our partnership with BASF will ensure that we can reach out to more young girls to ensure we assist to create more inspired, confident future leaders.’ BASF employees, Laraine Kruger (far left) and Lebo Motsele (second from the right) hand over a donation cheque to Richard Mabaso (far right) and learners from the Tembisa West Secondary School

PHARMA CERTIFICATION FOR CATHAY PACIFIC THE AIRLINE HAS become the first in Hong Kong to be awarded IATA CEIV pharma certification, which is a globally recognised pharmaceutical product handling accreditation. The certification underlines Cathay Pacific’s capabilities in the treatment and transportation of high-value, time-sensitive and temperature-controlled pharmaceutical products with speed, consistency and efficiency. In collaboration with aviation industry stakeholders and regulators, IATA created the Centre of Excellence for Independent Validators (CEIV) to help organisations involved in the air cargo supply chain achieve pharmaceutical handling excellence. CEIV pharma certification addresses the industry’s needs for safety, security, compliance and efficiency in the transportation of pharma products. It seeks to minimise product loss attributed to handling and environmental factors during transport. The certification encompasses, and in some cases, exceeds existing pharmaceutical standards and guidelines such as the European Union’s Good Distribution Practice and the World Health Organization (Annex 5) Good Distribution Practices for Pharmaceutical Products. Cathay Pacific’s South African country manager, Asish Kapur, comments: ‘It is a great honour to have been awarded IATA CEIV pharma certification, which recognises our commitment to our pharmaceutical customers. Cathay Pacific Cargo adheres to the highest operating standards and this certification highlights our capabilities in handling these precious, time-sensitive and often life-saving shipments.’ The airline’s CEIV pharma certification is set to positively impact the freight-forwarding and pharmaceutical industries in South Africa and internationally.

NAGOYA PROTOCOL FIRST FOR PROVITAL THIS GLOBAL PROTOCOL’S aim is to implement fair and equitable sharing of benefits arising from the use of genetic resources, thereby contributing to the conservation and sustainable use of biodiversity. Provital Group (Provital), represented locally by Savannah Fine Chemicals, is the first cosmetics ingredients supplier worldwide to achieve the internationally recognised certificate of compliance (IRCC) at the Access and Benefit-Sharing Clearing-House (ABSCH). The IRCC is an official document confirming the company fulfills Nagoya Protocol requirements. The R&D project that led to Provital gaining the certificate evaluates the cosmetics application of traditional plants from México and will guarantee a fair supply chain for those plants found to have cosmetics activity. The project will be carried out in collaboration with various communities of farmers from the State of Querétaro and with the Universidad Autónoma de Querétaro, in México. This is a major achievement recognising the best practices of Provital, regarding respecting biodiversity and sustainability and in complying with the Access and BenefitSharing guidelines of the Nagoya Protocol. The accolade is also thanks to the company’s great collaboration with the Mexican authorities of Semarnat.

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| JANUARY 2018 | P C Review


NEWS

CANCER VACCINE CLINICAL TRIALS ON THE RISE IN ASIA-PACIFIC ACCORDING TO A recent study by GlobalData, a leading data and analytics company, the North America and Asia-Pacific regions had the highest number of cancer vaccine clinical trials initiated between 2007 and 2016. Considering that many of the top companies in the pharmaceutical industry are headquartered in North America, it will come as no surprise that this region had the highest percentage of cancer vaccine clinical trials at 47 percent. However, a spokesperson from the healthcare analysts team at GlobalData says: ‘With the recent news of the Chinese government’s proposal to adopt a new regulatory process for drug approvals, thus opening up the market to big pharma, Asia-Pacific’s second highest share of 33 percent can only

Cancer vaccine trials by global region

increase in the coming years.’ Europe stands at third place with 16 percent of all cancer vaccine trials initiated over the 10-year period. The South and

Central American Region and the Middle East and African regions take fourth place each with two percent respectively.

Kosmet database relaunched with free access THE INTERNATIONAL FEDERATION of Societies of Cosmetic Chemists (IFSCC)

All 83 000+ abstracts can be searched by anyone. To download an abstract for

has relaunched its Kosmet database – the only global database populated

free the user must register with Kosmet and indicate the cosmetic science society

exclusively with cosmetic science abstracts. The IFSCC is offering free access to

to which they belong.

Kosmet until 1 November 2018. Commenting from Seoul, South Korea, IFSCC president, Dr Peter Kang, says:

‘The relaunch of Kosmet is one example of how the IFSCC is trying to bring additional science to more scientists around the world,’ comments Dr Frédéric

‘The new Kosmet interface will make the Kosmet cosmetic science database

Leroy, Paris-based chair of the IFSCC

much easier to use. Many scientists told us the old Kosmet interface wasn’t

Science Committee. ‘In the coming

user-friendly – and we listened. We invite all cosmetic scientists to try the new

months, we will be adding papers and

Kosmet today.’

posters presented at IFSCC congresses

Thanks to financial support from corporate sponsors Greentech and Pechoin,

and conferences, so Kosmet will

the IFSCC is able to offer Kosmet on a complimentary basis from now until

become an even more valuable

1 November 2018. The offer is available to all individual members of IFSCC

resource over time.’

member societies – over 16 000 cosmetic scientists worldwide. This means fully

Visit www.kosmet.com for more

paid up members of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists – Coschem – will have free

information and to register for

access to Kosmet during the aforementioned period.

complimentary access.

Helping you lay a strong foundation within the international market CECOSA plays a leading role in assisting South African members in taking product to international markets. We aim to assist and develop business entities to compete and be successful. Our unique offering means we are able to address our members needs and help realise numerous opportunities in our sector. Contact: Theresa Möller, Executive Director +27 (0)11 450 1506 • theresa@cecosa.co.za • www.cecosa.co.za

P C Review | JANUARY 2018 |

7


NEWS

MERCK AWARDED FOR LIGHT PROTECTION CONCEPT

COMMITTED TO NATURALLY DERIVED INGREDIENTS VANTAGE SPECIALTY INGREDIENTS (Vantage) continues its commitment to providing naturally better solutions to the personal care market with the development and launch of its first Bio-Ethylene Oxide-based product.

Image courtesy of Sepawa

Developing more sustainably produced raw materials is one of the major strategies of Vantage for future growth. With this new bio-based feedstock, the company has taken one of its key, proven ingredients and developed a green, non-petroleum based and truly sustainably produced ingredient. ‘Continuing with our strategy to develop more sustainable ingredients, this launch further signifies our commitment to our green and sustainable platform of product development,’ says Patrick Brueggman, senior vice THE GLOBAL SCIENCE and technology company received the 2017 Sepawa Innovation Award for its advanced light protection concept at the recent Sepawa congress in Berlin, Germany. Advanced light protection is in line with the latest findings on sunlightinduced mechanisms of skin damage and skin ageing. It also meets

president and GM at Vantage. The company is dedicated to using sustainable and socially responsible practices across all business units, affirming its promise to being a reliable global supplier. Launched in October 2017, Liponic Bio-EG-1 is a sustainably produced

the needs of the cosmetics industry for light protection solutions that

multi-functional ingredient derived from natural and sustainable

can be easily incorporated into formulations and offer customers an

feedstocks. RSPO grade glycerin and ethylene oxide, which are derived

additional benefit.

from corn ethanol, are utilised to produce this material.

The concept is the result of researching additional application possibilities for well-established functional Merck products for innovative skin protection. It combines Eusolex T-PRO and RonaFlair Balance Blue, with the discovery of new light protection properties of the two products. The discovery relates to the latest findings on infrared-A radiation (IRA) of sunlight and the short-wave, high-energy, blue-violet parts

NEW BODY BEAUTIFIER FOR IRRESISTIBLE SKIN

of the visible light (HEVL). IR-A and HEVL penetrate deep into the skin,

SEDERMA, A CRODA company, offers the beautifying benefits of Spain’s

where they cause lasting damage due to the production of reactive

Costa Blanca pink salt lake through a new biotechnological body care

oxygen species (ROS). Skin becomes dry and wrinkled, loses its

active. Hydronesis addresses the most common skin imperfections

elasticity, is easily irritated and reddened. Besides IR-A radiation, natural

and has been demonstrated to reduce the prevalent yet unknown

HEVL radiation and the radiation emitted from flat screens are said to

keratosis pilaris and post-waxing redness. It also offers significant skin

accelerate skin ageing.

moisturisation, leaving it incredibly soft and attractive.

In combination, Eusolex T-PRO and RonaFlair Balance Blue

By empowering the natural process of skin renewal and re-establishing

significantly reduce the transmission of damaging IR-A and HEVL

the hydrolipidic homeostasis, Hydronesis offers a holistic body care

radiation. ‘With our concept, we are offering manufacturers an

approach, which meets consumers’ expectations for skin beauty, softness

innovative tool for skin care cosmetics with state-of-the-art light

and comfort in just four weeks.

protection,’ says Karl-Christian Gallert, head of cosmetics at Merck. ‘The combination of the two products allows the amount of IR-A and HEVL radiation to be significantly reduced, providing the surface of the skin with an effective protective screen. This makes it possible to minimise damaging influences on and in the skin, while creating a concealing effect at the same time.’ As an inorganic UV filter with radical-scavenging properties, Eusolex T-PRO neutralises the damaging ROS. RonaFlair Balance Blue balances yellowish skin tones and gives the complexion a fresh and healthy appearance. In combination, they offer the cosmetics industry diverse possibilities for innovative skin care products with lightprotective properties.

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| JANUARY 2018 | P C Review

This natural ingredient is obtained from an eco-designed process. Microscopic images show the efficacy of Hydronesis in reducing Keratosis pilaris after four weeks’ application


NEWS

Honouring women in science THE 2017 EDITION of the L’Oréal-UNESCO

and those who were celebrated last

Doctoral regional fellowship of €10 000

For Women in Science (FWIS) sub-Saharan

year. ‘The world continues to face

towards her project on the anticancer

Africa ceremony celebrated 14 young

unprecedented challenges such as

and antimicrobial activity of Moringa

female scientists on 8 November at The

climate change, water scarcity, illnesses

oleifera and Sutherlandia frutescens and

Venue Greenpark in Johannesburg.

and food security among other issues.

their nanoparticles.

As part of the programme launched

Only a shared, controlled science, at

Augustina Frimpong from the University

in 2010, female scientists from across the

the service of the world’s population, is

of Ghana was one of the women

region were honoured for their work and

able to meet the major challenges of the

scientists who received the Doctoral

impact in the scientific field. Their fields of

twenty-first century, and our researchers

fellowship of €5 000 towards her project

research vary across different disciplines

are the proof.’

on the analysis of T cell receptor diversity

and address key global issues.

Charlette Tiloke from Durban University

Sandeep Rai, MD of L’Oréal South Africa highlighted the power of women scientists

in paediatric malaria patients.

of Technology is among the group of women scientists who received the Post-

has reached many women across the continent. Image courtesy of Xavier Photography

The scientists were presented with the fellowships on 8 November at The Venue Greenpark during a prestigious awards ceremony

The L’Oréal-UNESCO For Women in Science sub-Saharan Africa programme

CLARIANT ACHIEVES MAJOR SUSTAINABILITY MILESTONE MORE THAN 150 of Clariant’s products

to announce that already 159 of our

and solutions across all business units

products now carry our sustainability

3000 (BU ICS), pumpable silk

have now been awarded the EcoTain

excellence label.’

lustre agents for the cosmetics

label for sustainability excellence. At

Many of the new products added are

• Perlogen SF 117 and Perlogen SF

industry, mainly used

the quarterly EcoTain panel meeting, 10

the result of internal efforts to improve

in rinse off products,

more products were approved taking the

product performance to respond better

like shampoos or

total number to 159. They were presented

to customer’s needs and broad mega

following their strong sustainability

trends among consumers. The innovation

performance during their screening as

process increasingly involves closer

Nipaguard SCA (BU

part of the Portfolio Value Program (PVP).

collaboration with customers to move

ICS), broad spectrum

over to a more sustainable product that

antimicrobial agents

business growth and needed to stay

can future-proof their offering, allowing

used in blends,

competitive,’ says Joachim Krueger,

them to differentiate in the market.

designed for the

‘Sustainability is increasingly driving

head of corporate sustainability and

EcoTain products can be found in

shower gels • Nipaguard SCL and

preservation of cosmetics

regulatory affairs (CSRA). ‘With EcoTain

every business unit and for a broad

and toiletries, with a high

we showcase products and solutions

variety of markets and applications. In

renewable content above

that offer exceptional value to our

fact, 86 are products from BU Industrial

customers, society and the environment.

and Consumer Specialties (ICS), which

EcoTain products have a significantly

was the forerunner in developing the

blend designed for supporting the

higher growth rate and are also more

idea of an EcoTain label.

preservation strategy in formulations

profitable than the rest of the product

At the panel meeting, the

60 percent • Velsan SPA (BU ICS), is a perfume

and for use in a wide range of

portfolio as assessed under the PVP

following products from ICS business

cosmetics and toiletries. The product

financial review, thereby creating

unit were recognised for their

is active at every pH and provides an

substantial value for Clariant. I am proud

sustainability excellence:

alternative to using Phenoxyethanol.

P C Review | JANUARY 2018 |

9


NEWS

Symrise’s three year project is focused on improving the value chain for farmers in the Amazon region

FACTORY EFFICIENCIES DRIVE ADCOCK’S TURNOVER INCREASE AN EXCEPTIONAL INCREASE in trading profit is the highlight of Adcock Ingram’s year-end results. Despite the continuing economic downturn and pressure on consumer spending, a satisfying trading performance was achieved with improved performances across all commercial divisions of the business. ‘The positive results reflect our continuing investment in sales, marketing and brand innovation and our focus on customer service, complemented by production and operational efficiencies,’ says company CEO, Andy Hall. A seven percent increase in turnover to R5.936 million rendered an improved gross profit which moved as a percentage of sales to 37.8 percent for the current year from 36.6 percent in 2016. An improved product sales mix, under a relatively stable Rand, good inventory

SUSTAINABLE COSMETICS FROM THE RAINFOREST

management and factory efficiencies were the major contributors to this achievement. Well controlled operating expenses contributed to a 20 percent improvement in trading profit, which increased to R724 million (2016 – R606 million). All commercial divisions showed an improvement in trading profit, with the prescription, consumer and hospital divisions’

SYMRISE SUPPORTS SUSTAINABLE agriculture in the Amazon region and launched a three-year project in October 2017 which will help farmers improve their products and to diversify. To do so, the company has partnered up with the Brazilian cosmetics manufacturer, Natura and

growth all above 20 percent. Headline earnings for the year from continuing operations increased to R513.7 million compared to R376.4 million in the previous year. ‘A pleasing feature is the year-end net cash figure of R334.5 million

the German Society for International Cooperation (GIZ). The goal of this

compared to a net debt figure of R311.2 million at the end of the prior year,

project, alongside protection of the local rainforest, is to significantly

marking an improvement of R645.7 million,’ Hall concludes.

improve value creation for the local farmers and cooperatives. The Amazon region is known for its biodiversity. Up to 80 percent of the flora and fauna of Brazil can be found here. It stretches across almost

the past decades. Symrise wants to counteract this and has launched a

Wacker expands production in China

programme, supported by the governmental department for development

TO STRENGTHEN ITS market position in the country, Wacker Chemie is expanding its production

aid, to protect the Brazilian rainforest.

capacities for silicone and polymer products in China.

two-thirds of Brazil – for now. But continued deforestation and the not yet sustainable use of natural resources are threatening this unique marvel of nature. Large swaths of natural vegetation have been lost in

The idea is to restore the natural vegetation along the Trans-

A total investment of €20 million has been earmarked for these expansion projects, including

Amazonian Highway and in the Northeastern Pará and Ponta do Albuna

its solid silicone rubber manufacturing facility in Zhangjiagang, its production capacity for vinyl

regions through changed cultivation of the land and reforestation

acetate-ethylene (VAE) copolymer dispersions at its plant in Nanjing and improvements to its

measures. The farmers and cooperatives will learn how to cultivate the

technical centre in Shanghai. This includes new R&D labs for silicone fluids and resins, pyrogenic

land more effectively with the help of the latest technology. This will

silica and room-temperature-curing silicone elastomers. A food application lab for products for

increase their yields and allow them to stabilise their livelihoods through

the Wacker Biosolutions division is also scheduled.

a higher income. The result is sustainable for both the people and the environment. In the past, sustainable methods were not sufficiently competitive

Most of the funds will be used for technical measures to eliminate production bottlenecks and to expand capacity. ‘Greater China is one of our most important business regions. With annual sales of well

to offer the local farmers an economic alternative to the extensive

over €1 billion, it is Wacker’s largest single market and stands for one fourth of group sales,’

cultivation and deforestation of the forests. Cooperatives that have used

says CEO, Rudolf Staudigl. The demand for silicones and polymer products in China has been

this type of cultivation tend to focus on individual products or try to make

growing steadily for years. However, due to high plant capacity utilisation, additional volumes are

parts of the manufacturing process sustainable. The Symrise project aims

almost impossible.

to make the entire value chain profitable. The 14 partners in the local

Paul Lindblad, president of Wacker Greater China, also announced an expansion of the

cooperatives, which more than 1 000 families depend on, should also be

company’s R&D facilities in Shanghai, where it already operates a technical centre. By the end

able to increase their sales by 20 percent and gain certification from the

of 2018, Shanghai will have additional silicone labs for the development of new products and

Union for Ethical Biotrade. At the same time, the partners are supporting

applications in areas such as consumer care, coatings

the reuse of materials by developing new products from side streams.

and construction.

Symrise is involved in this project in order to protect the rainforest,

‘In recent years, Wacker has further strengthened its R&D

but it is also connected to the expansion of existing business models.

cooperation with Chinese customers to develop sustainable

The changed cultivation of the land also helps to build sustainable value

products and solutions suitable for the Chinese market,’

creation in the cosmetics industry. The company combines protecting

Lindblad comments. Earlier in 2017, Wacker had already

biodiversity with researching raw materials for scent and care – in

doubled its local synthesis capacity for polymer dispersions

harmony with nature.

needed for research and development.

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| JANUARY 2018 | P C Review

Wacker’s expansion plans in China include boosted analytical capabilities


2018

February

DIARY 2018

ood f

SOUTH AFRICAN PHARMACEUTICAL & COSMETIC REVIEW

RE V IE W

WHAT'S ON IN

SOUTH AFRICAN

Society of Cosmetic Chemists AGM

8 February Coschem office, Randpark Ridge, Johannesburg www.coschem.co.za

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P C Review | JANUARY 2018 |

11


STREET A silky veil of

Detox with

Aloe Ferox Cape Town based Aloe Unique has

expanded its line of aloe skin care products and health supplements with the new Aloe Detox tablets for immune support and revitalisation. The tablets are based on the Cape Aloe Ferox plant ingredient, harvested by locals using ancient methods. The brand also offers a range of sun, skin and body care products, which are all sold online at www.aloeunique.co.za.

fruity aromas BioNike 15 Fruit Xsense Multi-Sensorial Oil is rich in antioxidant ingredients as well as omega 3 and 6 essential fatty acids. The product has fruity, fresh notes of white flower and is formulated with a 15 percent concentration of oils sourced from watermelon, oranges, strawberries, peaches, sweet cherries and apricots to moisturise and protect skin and hair. Xsense retails for R230 and is available exclusively at DisChem stores nationwide.

Logical

skin care

Launched in December, SKNlogic

New feminine wipes Comfitex, a trusted panty liner brand

Multi Active Lotion is formulated

produced by NSP Unsgaard, has launched

with a high concentration of

feminine wipes in a 24s-pack size for

alpha and beta hydroxy acids

women of all ages. The wipes are specially

in a lightweight emulsion. The

designed to help maintain a healthy pH

combination provides an intensive

balance and perfect for keeping clean and

treatment for increased cell

fresh all day. Comfitex Feminine Wipes

turnover to restore skin’s suppleness, clarity and texture. The product

are ideal for sensitive skin and can be used

addresses hyperpigmentation,

during menstruation, when travelling and

dehydration and problem skin

after exercise. The wipes retail for R19.99 and

issues and is available in salons

are available at Shoprite Checkers in the Western Cape and KwaZulu-Natal.

and spas nationwide.

Sun milk for

delicate skin

Pure Beginnings Baby & Kids Sensitive Milk SPF

12

10 Minute tan

Vita Liberata has launched the new

10 minute tan, which retails for R995 for 150mℓ. Bursting with rosehip oil, Sederma’s Matrixyl 3000 and neroli oil, the product

50+ offers high broad-spectrum (UVA/UVB) sun

delivers a glorious, natural tan whilst

protection. It is water resistant and manufactured

stimulating the production of collagen to

with 100 percent natural mineral filters, guaranteed

plump and firm the skin. It is absorbed and

free from nanoparticles. Although it is designed

rinsed off after 10 minutes and has staying

for babies and kids, the product is suitable for the

power when swimming or sweating. A natural

whole family, especially for people with sensitive

medium colour develops over six to eight

skin. The sun milk retails for R249.99 and is available

hours after application with the additional anti-

online (www.purebeginnings.co.za) and at select

ageing benefits. Visit www.vitaliberata.co.za for

retailers nationwide.

more information.

| JANUARY 2018 | P C Review


Launched a new product in 2017/18?

ENTRIES NOW OPEN

Contact Natalie Da Silva: natalie.dasilva@newmediapub.co.za | +27 (0)11 877 6281


EVENTS

A PASSION for precise pharma packaging In November, Rotolabel – the labels division of Bidvest Data Print and Packaging – hosted its inaugural pharmaceutical open day to showcase to key customers its capabilities and wide range of products and services. The event took place in Johannesburg at the company’s Kempton Park facility. 1

R

2

3

otolabel specialises in

communications, packaging, labelling

1

Pharma industry guests attending the site visit

flexographic, letterpress and

and stationery solutions in southern Africa.

2

S oftware on the Rotocontrol RSP label inspection machine has been customised according to Rotolabel’s needs

3

The Rotocontrol BL440

digital print technologies, allowing the company to print labels

Rotolabel Johannesburg’s pharmaceutical aligned centre of

of consistently high quality on a range

excellence took centre stage at the event

of substrates with a variety of finishes.

with guests attending a site visit that

Between its Cape Town and Johannesburg

showcased exactly how the company

its pharmaceutical customers also got

printing facilities, Rotolabel has in excess

takes the industry’s needs into account.

to view the way in which the production

of 20 presses, making it one of the biggest players in the market.

Maritz highlighted the company’s stateof-the-art booklet machine – a Rotocontrol

According to Wicus Maritz,

By touring Rotolabel Johannesburg,

facility has been set up in line with industry standards to avoid cross-contamination

BL440, the most up-to-date

or stock pilferage for example. This has

chief executive at Rotolabel, the

inspection machine, a

been done by securing the sites for each

company has come a long way

Rotocontrol RSP, and the

component i.e. the pharmaceutical

over the past 35 years, when

Nova Gidue Flexo, which

area is completely separate to the

its Cape Town facility was first

has significantly increased

commercial labelling areas. Tight security

established. The Joburg operation

Rotolabel’s capacity.

measures have also been implemented,

was eestablished more than 30

Guests also got to

years ago, and when Rotolabel

see its GlobalVision

mobile segregation units and stringent

in Cape Town was aquired by

electronic verification

line clearance procedures where waste is

Bidvest in 2008, the businesses

system, which Rotolabel

cleared in a controlled manner.

were consolidated under one

Wicus Maritz

management. ‘We have scale yet remain flexible in business,’ he

operates at both its Cape

including biometric access control,

The company is also fully compliant

Town and Johannesburg

with industry requirements in terms of

production plants. This

face-stock, adhesives, inks and varnishes.

commented, addressing guests from the

is the company’s most recent investment,

At Rotolabel, only low migration, FDA-

pharmaceutical industry at the Rotolabel

which was driven by its pharmaceutical

approved adhesives are used to produce

open day.

customers and to mitigate the risk of

pharmaceutical labels. Only materials

incorrectly printed packaging.

that have passed ISEGA ISO3826 testing

In essence, the company is a one-stop shop – nothing needs to be outsourced

According to the company, it is the

and comply with FDA regulation 21

when working with Rotolabel. This

first label printer in South Africa to have

CFR 175.105 are considered suitable for

was substantiated through several

invested in this technology, which puts

this application. •

presentations on the various divisions

Rotolabel in the ideal position to not only

of Bidvest Data Print and Packaging,

offer accurate label inspection but also

which is a leading supplier of printing,

peace of mind to its customers.

14

| JANUARY 2018 | P C Review

Rotolabel – www.rotolabel.co.za


EVENTS

Sustain your brand and innovate in 2018

Have you booked your seat yet for the first P C Review Beauty Trends & Innovations Conference? If not, here’s why you should.

P

equity and corporate finance. She has established Imbalie Beauty as a leading and desirable beauty franchise group. She also played a key role in launching the upgraded Placecol skin care range and

harmaceutical

Cosmetic

exploration and won numerous awards

Review has rounded up some

during her studies, including four

of the best speakers and most

Sasol prizes for Chemistry and the

introduced Skinderm into the Perfect 10 franchise group. Michael Gullan, MD at G&G

South African Chemistry Institute’s

Digital, will share an award-

its inaugural conference, taking place on

James Moir Medal. Van der Wat

winning agency’s perspective

22 February at the Media Park Auditorium

has also presented her research at

on Marketing a beauty brand in

in Auckland Park, Johannesburg. To book

international conferences and has

knowledgeable industry experts for

your seat for R995 per person including

authored many scientific papers.

speciality pharmaceutical agency CERCA

VAT send an e-mail to Natalie.DaSilva@ newmediapub.co.za.

2018. Gullan’s advertising career of over 25 years started at the

Getting it right online

where he made significant contributions to

Elena Protulis will reveal How to

developing a number of pharmaceutical

group of exhibitors, which will be

develop and sustain a social

brands. He has more than two decades’

showcasing their products and

media strategy. Protulis has over

experience on key client accounts ranging

solutions for the cosmetics industry.

12 years’ experience in social

from cosmetics, pharmaceutical and

The event will also include a select

These include Symrise, Merck, Khaya International Packaging, Unicare and

media and content marketing gained at Sage Publications

medical to food and beverage, publishing and financial services. Gullan has a real

Meganede, which will have an international

(London), Native and Aqua now

talent for launching new products to market,

technical representative from Silab

Wunderman (Joburg). She founded Proél

as well as revitalising waning brands.

available throughout the day to discuss

Consulting in 2017, is a strong advocate

brand owners’ formulating and active

for women in tech and was instrumental in

ingredients needs.

establishing the MTN Group’s social media

Insight into compliance and category trends

presence through policies, guidelines and

Percy Sibanda will present on Compliance

Focus on formulating and driving innovation John Knowlton, one of the industry’s most progressive formulators and product developers, will discuss Creativity in the workplace to drive innovation. Knowlton is the MD of Cosmetic Solutions. Before

strategies across 22 Opcos. The Dos and don’ts of e-commerce will be highlighted in a not to be missed presentation by cosmetics and chemical industry expert, Robert Rae. Rae is a founding

in the South African cosmetics industry. Percy is the scientific and regulatory affairs advisor at L’Oréal SA. He currently serves/has served on working groups and committees for the chemical, cosmetics, FMCG and

member of Ordinary Skincare,

allied industries at the CTFA, SABS, NRCS,

which he formed in partnership

CGCSA, AMA and other SA government

with Dr Claire Jamieson. Ordinary

departments and regulatory agencies. He

worked at Johnson & Johnson (UK) and

Skincare is primarily an online business

is also chairperson of the CTFA’s Cosmetic

Justine now Avon-Justine (South Africa)

that is flourishing both in South Africa and

Regulatory Review Working Group, which

in various scientific, R&D and technical

the UK. His industry experience spans 30

reviewed and commented on the proposed

roles. He is a board member and technical

years running companies as MD, CEO and

DoH draft regulations for cosmetics.

advisor to the CTFA and co-authored

chairman in the UK, Europe and Asia with

the Handbook of Cosmetic Science

sales operations in almost all countries.

establishing his own company, he

formulator, Leandri van der Wat will delve into Formulating for Africa’s millennials. Van der Wat is the R&D manager at Optiphi, a Skin Rejuvenation

insights will be revealed by Kim Reddy, director of consumer

and Technology. The up and coming and award-winning

Current market trends and category

Spotlight on finance and marketing

insights at Nielsen, which she joined in August 2017. Prior to

Esna Colyn will focus on

this she spent eight and half

the financial aspects

years at Millward Brown, based

of How to keep a beauty brand in business. Colyn is the Imbalie Beauty Group’s

Technologies’ company. She

CEO which she joined in 2010

grew up with a curiosity for scientific

after working in banking, private

both locally and at its London office. Kim has 20 years’ experience in market research across various sectors including FMCG, financial services and telecoms. •

P C Review | JANUARY 2018 |

15


COMPANY FOCUS

Ultra Violet enters the world of beauty

The 2018 Pantone Color of the Year is Ultra Violet. Sensient Cosmetic Technologies is celebrating this colour and the influence it’s going to have on the cosmetics industry and on makeup, hair colour and hair maintenance products.

D

escribed by Pantone as a

future. Complex and contemplative, Ultra

Music industry icons Prince, David Bowie

‘dramatically provocative and

Violet suggests the mysteries of the cosmos,

and Jimi Hendrix brought shades of Ultra

thoughtful purple shade’, the

the intrigue of what lies ahead and the

Violet to the forefront of Western pop culture

colour violet has been popular

discoveries beyond where we are now. The

as personal expressions of their individuality.

for years in all types of makeup and beauty

vast and limitless night sky is symbolic of

Nuanced and full of emotion, the depth

products, from temporary hair dyes to bold

what is possible and continues to inspire the

of Pantone 18-3838 Ultra Violet symbolises

lipsticks and eyeshadows.

desire to pursue a world beyond our own.

experimentation and non-conformity,

Pantone 18-3838 Ultra Violet

Enigmatic purples have also long

spurring individuals to imagine their unique

communicates originality, ingenuity and

been symbolic of counterculture,

mark on the world and push boundaries

visionary thinking that points us toward the

unconventionality and artistic brilliance.

through creative outlets. Historically, there has been a mystical or

THE TREND ON EVERYONE’S LIPS

spiritual quality attached to Ultra Violet. The colour is often associated with mindfulness practices, which offer a higher ground to those seeking refuge from today’s over-

IN A POST on Sensient Cosmetic Technologies’

revisit how they approach formulations and

Cosmetic Pulse blog, marketing assistant, Tiffany

ingredients, as well as forge new paths for this

stimulated world. Marcel van Rooyen, Sensient Cosmetic

Mikrut shares some interesting facts on lip colour

major makeup category. By closely monitoring

Technologies’ account manager for

cosmetics. These products continue to drive

market trends and playing with different concepts,

cosmetics South Africa, says: ‘Pantone

color cosmetics new product development across

Sensient’s application teams have been able

is the language of colour and it will be

most regions. Lip colour cosmetics is indeed the

to anticipate trends and inspire formulators

interesting to see how this year’s colour will

largest makeup subcategory in Latin America

around the world with innovative concepts like

be incorporated into makeup, fashion and

(33 percent), Asia Pacific (32 percent) and North

the delightful lip contouring routine (formulas

in our homes. We’ve already seen that the

America (31 percent).

SCT2141, SCT2142, SCT2143) featuring long

deep royal purple-blue hue of Ultra Violet

lasting ADT-C pigments for good lip adhesion. For

looks gorgeous on hair with purple hair

is actually the absence of a clear leading trend.

those who can’t do without their matte lipstick,

becoming a massive trend over the past

The category is teeming with innovation spanning

Sensient’s Girly Vintage Lipstick (SCT2042A)

few years.’

from new colours, effects and formats, allowing

will certainly strike a chord, thanks to the matte

formulators and marketers an almost blank canvas

effect and unique comfortable glide provided

Bold in beauty and hair care

to express their creativity.

by Covalumine composite pigments. Source:

Sensient Cosmetic Technologies is

www.cosmeticpulse.sensient-cosmetics.com/

committed to developing, producing

category/ makeup

and marketing quality ingredients and

Maybe the most striking trend about lip makeup

One thing is for sure, the development of breakthrough concepts will require brands to

colourants for the cosmetics industry. At

16

| JANUARY 2018 | P C Review


COMPANY FOCUS

its global

long-lasting application, ADT-C surface

and product

production

treated pigments provide the colour while

development needs.

facilities, the company

Covapearl Starlight Violet 5331 gives a shimmer effect.

As a leading manufacturer of high quality colours, Sensient offers an extensive

manufactures the

range of natural and synthetic colours.

finest colourants and functional cosmetics

An industry leader

Sensient Cosmetic Technologies has

ingredients for makeup, skin and hair

As a primary manufacturer of certified dyes

a complete range of synthetic colours

care, personal hygiene, oral care and

and pigments and enjoying the successful

manufactured to the highest standards,

fragrance applications.

colour expertise of the Sensient Group,

specifically for the cosmetics industry.

the company offers globally compliant

The company’s products are designed

manufacturers 2018 Pantone Color of the

colours, speciality blending, surface

to unlock valuable opportunities,

Year product development needs, Sensient

treatments, speciality milling and pigments

provide optimum performance and

Cosmetic Technologies offers the following

dispersions to satisfy the most discerning

present superior solutions for cosmetics

globally approved synthetic dyes:

and individual requirements.

formulations. The product ranges

To meet brand owners and

• Unicert Violet K7025-J CI17200

All manufactured batches undergo

Unicert-J, Dyes-C, Phat and EC food dyes

• Unicert Violet K7116-J CI60730

rigorous testing to guarantee consistency,

contain synthetic water-soluble and oil-

• Violet Covasol W5008 CI45100

purity and reliability, to ensure its products

soluble colours conforming to cosmetics

meet customers’ strict demands.

colour regulations. •

and CI18965. It also produces globally approved

With the company’s knowledge of

pigments, with Unipure Violet LC587

cosmetic ingredient regulations, use

CI77007 being ideal for violet makeup

limits and labelling requirements, it can

products, and to meet consumers’ natural

assist customers with manufacturing

Sensient Cosmetic Technologies – www.sensient-cosmetics.com

and organic requirements, the company offers Ecocert and Cosmos approved pigments and dispersions Unipure

Table 1: SCT 2118 Healing Lip Gloss – Violette

Ingredients

INCI

%

Synthetic wax

Synthetic Wax

3.40

Eutanol G

Octyl Dodecanol

12.30

Microcrystalline wax Ozokerite

Ozokerite

2.20

Covasterol

Glyceryl Isostearate (and) Isostearyl Alcohol (and) Brassica Campestris (Rapeseed) Sterols (and) Butyrospermum Parkii Butter (and) Candelilla Cera

20.00

Covamer

Polybutene (and) Isononyl Isononanoate (and) Ethylene/ VA Copolymer (and) Isostearyl Alcohol

29.30

blonde and grey hair and in hair colour

Synthetic beeswax

Synthetic Beeswax

9.24

products for temporary and semi-

Dub MDIS

Diisostearyl Malate

7.26

Bentone Gel CAO V

Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil (and) Stearalkonium Hectorite (and) Propylene Carbonate

2.50

Polybutene

Polybutene

3.00

Sensicrystal

Polybutene (and) Isostearyl Isostearate (and) Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate

9.00

Unipure Red LC300 ADT-C

CI 73360 (and) Aluminum Hydroxide (and) Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate (and) Bis-PEG-15 Dimethicone/IPDI Copolymer (and) PEG-2 Soyamine

0.02

Unipure Blue LC680 ADT-C

CI 77007 (and) Aluminum Hydroxide (and) Aluminum Hydroxide (and) Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate (and) Bis-PEG-15 Dimethicone/IPDI Copolymer (and) PEG-2 Soyamine

0.08

Covamer

Polybutene (and) Isononyl Isononanoate (and) Ethylene/ VA Copolymer (and) Isostearyl Alcohol

0.20

Violet LC585 CI77007 and Unipure Violet

Phase

LC587 CI77007. Unicert Violet K7025-J CI17200 is a high purity grade of acid violet 43. This direct anionic dye with high water solubility brings violet blue colour to hair. It can be used in hair shading applications such as anti-yellowness products for

A

permanent applications. For Ultra Violet lip care products, Sensient Cosmetic Technologies’s Violette healing lip gloss (see Table 1 for the formulation guide) helps relieve dry chapped lips while the Violette lipstick perfume evokes a sweet aroma of candy and childhood memories, enhancing the soothing feeling. Covasterol,

B

featured with plant derived ingredients, provides excellent emolliency and healing properties for dry lips while the Covamer polymer and ester blend forms a film that promotes spreadability. Sensicrystal provides superior adhesiveness for a

C

Covapearl Starlight Violet 5331

CI 77891 (and) Synthetic Fluorphlogopite

0.50

D

Violette Lipstick

Perfume

1.00

P C Review | JANUARY 2018 |

17


COLOUR COSMETICS

Each year brings with it new makeup must-haves. Metallic lipsticks are hot and true statement-making products, while metallic eyeshadows bring a new electric element to colour cosmetics. Kobo Products discusses how to achieve these super pigmented formulations.

Metallic lips and eyes

Layering metallic lipsticks on top of regular matte lipsticks creates extra dimension

M

etallic lipsticks and eyeshadows

provide an iridescent illumination that will

require super intense

emphasise the shape and depth of the eyes.

formulations that shimmer and

Kobo Products offers a range of pearlescent

shine with depth. While

the strobing trend has created a

pigments and easy-to-use pigmentary

DID YOU KNOW?

desire for glowing skin, metallics provide a stunning reflection and hue to add to this trend. When creating a look, metallic and neutral shades should be paired on lips and eyes because they are complementary. Metallic lipsticks are bold, vibrant and create dimension. They have a base of gold or silver

dispersions to support chemists formulating metallic lip and eye products. These products are

available in South Africa from Metallic lipsticks look good on Instagram. Romero Jennings, director of Cosmetic Ingredients. makeup artistry at M.A.C says, ‘The matte lip trend has been hot for so long, but Driving formulation metallic-toned lips are the new way to innovation create instant celebrity. Most importantly, KTZ pearlescent pigments it’s a trend that photographs incredibly well and looks great on are special effect pigments everyone’. Source: based on a natural mica www.allure.com

shimmer to give a more pronounced

substrate coated with titanium

dioxide and/or iron oxide to create

effect. They can help create the illusion of

pearlescent effects, interference colours and

bigger, fuller lips due to the light-reflecting

angle-related colour travel. They offer great

pigments and are designed to shade, define and highlight the lips. Layering metallic lipsticks on top of regular matte lipsticks creates extra dimension and expands the matte lipstick trend. Metallic eyeshadows give a foil finish, and contour and contrast

versatility in a broad range of cosmetics applications to impart colour and visual effects. These pigments are available in a variety of invigorating hues and particle size distributions. KTZ pearlescent pigments can enhance effects such as depth, dimension, sensual sheen and captivating sparkle. PT1BM Dispersions offer high concentrations of colour that contribute a glossy effect with good spreadability and a silky feel to finished formulas. These phenyl silicone fluid dispersions offer

with mascaras

a unique sensory profile in comparison to

and eyeliners.

dispersions in cyclopentasiloxane to achieve

They are

desirable and comparable formulation results.

available as powders or creams and the shades

The opportunity to formulate using this optimised phenyl fluid allows chemists to further utilise optical reflective properties with higher volatility to reach new limits. •

range from a soft shimmer to a glittery pearlescent sheen, which can be worn during the day or at night. Metallic eyeshadows also

18

| JANUARY 2018 | P C Review

Cosmetic Ingredients – www.cosmetic-ingredients.co.za Kobo Products – www.koboproductsinc.com


COLOUR COSMETICS

What will

sparkle and shine in 2018?

Blurred lines between technology and tradition, illumination and a strong focus on femininity are driving developments in colour cosmetics. P C Review caught up with Karen Maier from Merck to discuss what will be hot in South Africa this year.

T

here are very few rules when it comes to

As we kick off the new year, the company’s

colour cosmetics. Merck exemplifies this in

autumn/winter Arty Spirit colour forecast is set to

its colour forecasts with extreme looks and

influence new product development with ‘plenty of

exciting styles that can be translated into real

positive energy laying the groundwork for tomorrow’.

ideas for the local market.

There is a strong focus on bridging the gap between

‘The intention is to bring in the unique elements

the past and present with outrageous glamour and

presented by Merck and make them your own, in line

the avant garde intertwined to redefine what is cool

with your brand story,’ explains Maier, who is the head

and shake up existing conventions.

of performance materials at Merck South Africa.

The four key trends are: 1. Funky Star immerses us in a retro

Table 1: Formulation Guide

Phase

A

B

chic ambience, the disco scene and

Ingredients

INCI

%

Timiron SynBeam Red

Synthetic Fluorphlogopite, CI 77891, Tin Oxide

6.00

Timiron SynBeam Copper

Synthetic Fluorphlogopite, CI 77891, Tin Oxide

3.00

Covapate Unired LC 3703

Ricinus Communis Seed Oil, CI 15850

5.00

Covapate Unired LC 3779

Ricinus Communis Seed Oil, CI 15850

1.00

RonaCare AP

Bis-ethylhexyl Hydroxydimethoxy Benzylmalonate

0.40

RonaCare Bisabolol

Bisabolol

0.40

Oxynex K liquid

Peg-8, Tocopherol, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Ascorbic Acid, Citric Acid

0.05

conventions to transcend genres with the spellbinding, boyish spirit of Paris at its centre 3. S  treet Icon takes us back to basics, focusing on everyday scenes and accessories that give off a creative spark

Sensiva PA 20

Phenethyl Alcohol, Ethylhexyl Glycerin

1.00

4. D  ivine Diva offers a contemporary

Paracera C 44

Copernicia Cerifera Cera, Ceresin

4.40

take on the minimalist attitude with

Wax white

Cera Alba

4.40

rituals and gestural codes that provide

Miglyol 812 N

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

17.50

Castor Oil

Ricinus Communis Seed Oil

56.85

Coral Red Lipwax (W 17-23)

20

mysterious private clubs 2. B  lurred Muse mixes up established

| JANUARY 2018 | P C Review

balance and harmony. While each trend offers two subcategories and a number of stunning looks using


COLOUR COSMETICS products based on a set range of colours, there are

the successor of the contouring

certain concepts that stand out as exceptionally

trend. Strobing works only with

relevant to the South African market.

some highlighting effects. Formulas

Made to ignite

with a light, silvery, more or less

Lips do the talking

Launched in August 2017, Ronastar

sparkling effect are applied on

Flaming Lights is a stunning deep red

Based on a beautiful colour palette of natural ashes,

protruding parts of the face, like

effect pigment for cosmetics applications,

cloudy sky, smoky grey, dried heather, azure mist,

cheeks, brow bones, nose, chin, or

perfectly engineered to provide a

faded pink, sandalwood and violet mood, Blurred

the centre of the forehead.’

new dimension of sparkle. It features

Muse is timeless, artistic, free and emotional. A

a uniform thickness and extremely

Petsitis explains that different

subcategory within this trend, Artist Atelier includes

formula bases and modes of

smooth surface. Due to its high-tech

a Coral Red Lipwax (see Table 1 for the formulation

application are possible, offered

pigment design, incoming light is strongly

guide) with a high pigment concentration to give a

as powders, sticks, poured

reflected to create a lustrous, crystal-

strong colour to lips. While red lips are a perennial

pasty products, creams and

like sparkle effect.

classic, this year the focus is on modern application

fluids. The common feature of

This innovative product works well in lip

and fresh finishes.

shiny illumination and radiance

products, eye makeup and nail polish.

‘Merck has created better effects and more

products is the content of reflective

options for customers with, for example, reds with

pigments, responsible for the

depth and pigments with multidimensional effects,’

lustrous effect. Often the base is white or pastel

says Maier. ‘We also help our customers with

coloured and contains silver, golden or

new ideas by presenting traditional products in

rose shimmer pigments. These products

innovative ways. For example, we’re focusing on lip

are applied gently on top of the

waxes, vinyl and stains to colour or finish the lips in

foundation, to produce a healthy

fresh and fun ways.’

glow in a way that makes the complexion look attractive, but

Get that golden glow

never oily or glossy.

Intense beauty is at the heart of the Divine Diva

It’ll be exciting to see what

trend yet it’s well balanced with respectability and

new colour cosmetics are

sophistication. The main colour range includes tonic

launched in South Africa

brown, graphic purple, intense patchouli, indigo

in the coming months,

leather, white pepper, abyss grey,

particularly the strobing

amber earth and petrified wood.

and illuminating

Deep Vanity is one of the

products. ‘This trend

subcategories in this trend and is

is such a positive one

characterised by precious golds

– instead of hiding

combined with intense purples and

flaws it highlights

a shiny bordeaux, adding a vibrant

perfections. There

contemporary edge to products

are also many claims

inspired by this trend. To illustrate

surrounding strobing, which

Deep Vanity in an application, Merck

can be interpreted in various

has created Ancient Gold Eyeshadow

ways,’ Maier concludes. •

(see Table 2 for the formulation guide). This golden eyeshadow has a warm hue for lighter skin tones and a

Merck Performance Materials – www.merck-performance-materials.com

more brilliant intense effect on darker skins, the product can be applied with a wet sponge.

Table 2: Formulation Guide

Phase

Highlighting perfection This brilliant face-illuminating hack is taking off in South Africa with Woolworths among the first

A

Ingredients

INCI

%

Colorona Patina Gold

Mica, CI 77891, CI 77499, CI 77491

20.00

Colorona SynRussian Gold

Synthetic Fluorphlogopite, CI 77891, CI 77491, Silica

17.50

Mica, CI 77491, CI 77891

5.00

Colorona Tangerine Orange

local brand owners to launch a

Timiron SynBeam Red

Synthetic Fluorphlogopite, CI 77891, Tin Oxide

2.50

strobing cream.

Parteck LUB Talc

Talc

38.90

Parteck LUB MST

Magnesium Stearate

1.85

radiance and strobing? (published in Euro

Maisita Natural 9083

Zea Mays

2.75

Cosmetics), Xenia Petsitis, Merck’s technical service

Dow Corning 556

Phenyl Trimethicone

4.95

manager for decorative cosmetics discusses the

Eutanol G

Octyldodecanol

3.50

Squalane, vegetable

Squalane

2.55

not only a descriptive claim,’ she writes, ‘it is also

Euxyl PE 9010

Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexyl Glycerin

0.50

a makeup technique and could be considered

Ancient Gold Eyeshadow (W 17-41)

In an article entitled What are illumination,

ins and out of this new makeup trend. ‘Strobing is

B

P C Review | JANUARY 2018 |

21


HAIR CARE

Addressing hair loss with plant peptides

Hair loss affects both men and women. The 2017 award-winning, first generation plant peptide developed from Turmeric by Vytrus Biotech achieves hair growth through the epigenetic reset of the hair bulb, using a biological approach. By O. Expósito, M.

When there is an imbalance in the cycle, hair

Perez, R. Vallecillo, M. Mas, A. Gallego, T. Ruiz and S. Laplana

proliferating tissues in the human body. The

B

new hair.

The director of the orchestra The dermal papilla is one of the most rapidly biological interaction within this tissue is crucial for the re-activation and regulation

constitute a wide chapter in

of hair follicle development and growth. It activates proliferation and differentiation

dermatology. Hair loss or

of keratinocytes in the hair matrix,

alopecia can be caused

issues, from hormone driven to immunologic, pharmacologic or

Figure 1: Induction of dermal papilla cells proliferation

enter a latent state, stopping the creation of

e it loss or thinning, hair problems

by an unlimited series of clinical

The field of hair regrowth treatments is constantly evolving

loss occurs because the dermal papilla cells

disease induced. Even though hair is of little biological value to humans, hair loss has a direct psychological effect on a person’s self-esteem and confidence. It’s no surprise that the field of hair re-growth

DID YOU KNOW?

regulates the hair growth cycle, determines the quality and size

There are more than 400 preclinic assays on turmeric described in literature and more than 1 000 publications showing its multiple properties, ranging from antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and wound healing to antimicrobial and DNA protecting.

treatments is constantly evolving and every new finding achieves great relevance. Despite the different etiologies, research has

of hair produced and it can regenerate the entire hair follicle. Under the correct microenvironment in the hair bulb, dermal papilla cells work correctly and regulate several key molecules including growth factors, nutrients and miRNAs.

They segregate molecules including growth factors such as Insulin Growth Factor-1 (IGF-1), which stimulates follicle development,

shown there is a common link in all cases of

maintaining the Anagen phase and postponing

reversible alopecia – the state of the dermal

the transition into the Catagen phase1,2. It is

papilla cells. These cells are ultimately in charge

also essential for the growth and differentiation

of the correct and balanced functioning of the

of follicles3,4.

hair cycle, which has three phases:

Both plants and animals have thousands

1. A  nagen when hair grows actively

of different microRNAs (miRNAs), which are

2. Catagen when hair stops growing

key elements for the modulation of organism

3. T elogen when hair falls.

development5,6,7. In hair growth, their crucial

In the hair bulb, there is a mix of molecules and

role has only recently been discovered – they

cross signaling, regulated by dermal papilla

are involved in the control of each cycle phase

cells, which changes from phase to phase and

and regulate the transition between phases

causes the transition from one phase to the next.

when targeting different signaling pathways and transcription factors. While about 200miRNAs are involved in the different stages, only two of them are particularly important to the hair follicle: miRNA-31 and miRNA-228,9. The expression of miRNA-31 is intense and exclusive of the Anagen phase. It controls diverse signaling routes

22

| JANUARY 2018 | P C Review


HAIR CARE Figure 2: Induction of IGF-1 production from dermal papilla cells

related to the control of cell differentiation and hair formation, it promotes the transition of the follicle from the Telogen to Anagen phase and, if inhibited, the Catagen phase commences. MiRNA-22 is involved in the premature transition to the regression of the hair follicle10. Its expression increases during the Catagen phase and is the highest during the Telogen phase. Its induction is enough to promote transition to and progression beyond the Catagen phase. Seeing how hair loss starts when dermal papilla cells become inactive, their reactivation is a possible solution to the problem. Vytrus Biotech’s latest research and technology have allowed the company to create a plant-based active ingredient able to produce an epigenetic resetting of the hair bulb, reactivating latent dermal papilla cells and promoting hair follicle regeneration to create new hair.

micro-environment and have a pool of active stem cells. They also share a key link – signaling peptides.

Plants and hair are naturally similar

Plant and animal growth factors have very similar

Vytrus Biotech’s philosophy is to find solutions

functions; it is possible to use plant growth factors

based on what plants do in real life. Thanks to in

for hair and skin care applications. The latest

house knowledge on plant stem cells and plant

in-house research at Vytrus Biotech reveals the

physiology, the company has determined that plant

interactions between signaling molecules of the

tissues and human hair work in a similar way. They

hair follicle and their relation to phyto-peptides,

are both rooted, have seasonal behaviour (fall in

allowing the company to design and produce

autumn), absorb nutrients from the surrounding

peptidic fractions of plant origin based on the

®

KahlWax offers a great variety of natural waxes for hair care products such as oils, conditioners or masks. Re-envision your hair care formulations – with solutions and services that meet your requirements exactly and with ingredients that naturally fulfill consumer wishes, such as an impressive combability and manageability. KahlWax. The ingredients for care. www.kahlwax.com

sfc-info@savannah.co.za www.savannah.co.za

2018-01 Ad_P&C_Jan_KahlWax.indd 1

13.11.17 10:09

P C Review | JANUARY 2018 |

23


HAIR CARE signaling mechanisms

surprisingly great similarities as animal growth

that regulate hair loss.

factors and it has been demonstrated that they carry out a growth factor effect on dermal

First generation of plant peptides

papilla cells.

A massive category has

cultures and subsequent concentration of cell-

developed based on

free supernatants, it is possible to obtain these

the use of oligopeptides

plant oligopeptides, which are rich in plant-

in the cosmetics and

derived growth factors, transcription factors and

pharmaceutical

epigenetic modulators. These oligopeptides show

industries. Yet these

great potential for cosmetics and dermatological

peptides are from

applications, including hair growth stimulation,

human origin and their

anti-ageing, skin regeneration and wound healing.

With the growth control of high density cell

production processes are expensive and/

The turmeric super active

or transgenic.

Rich in curcuminoids (mainly curcumin), Curcuma

Several in-house tests

longa is one of the most researched plants in

demonstrate that

biomedicine. It was the perfect candidate among

genuinely plant derived

plants with a high regenerative capacity. Turmeric

oligopeptides are

is a tropical and subtropical plant characterised

very similar to those

by its ramified, cylindrical and orange rhizomes.

of humans and offer

These modified roots act as storage and resistance

great potential in the

organs. They grow endlessly and have excellent

regeneration of human

regenerative properties.

skin cells through a Figure 3: Increase in hair density

growth factor-like effect. Totipotent plant cell cultures (also known

Capilia LongaPPF (INCI name: Water (and) Curcuma Longa (Turmeric) Callus Conditioned Media (and) Gluconolactone (and) Sodium

as plant stem cells) are excellent material for the

Benzoate) represents a new activity profile

production of innovative and high value active

for Curcuma longa, claiming PPF. This active

ingredients. This is because they represent a

ingredient is the concentrated secretome of

new generation of plant-based products that

totipotent cells from the rhizome of turmeric. The

perfectly combine excellent efficacy and safety

secretome is rich in signaling peptides specially

profiles with highly efficient and sustainable

designed to create an optimal micro-environment

production processes. These totipotent cells have

to re-activate hair growth, epigenetically resetting

extraordinary regenerative properties, being able

the hair bulb, regenerating the hair follicle and

to restore an entire plant from a single cell.

offering an exclusive nutritive blend for hair.

There are many similarities in the tissue regeneration processes of plants and animals. Based on the company’s expertise in plant regeneration processes, several small signaling peptides (plant oligopeptides) have

determine the ability of the active ingredient to activate processes of proliferation and release key growth factors for the production of new hair. To determine the induction of dermal papilla cells proliferation, we measured the incorporation

concentrated from

of Bromodeoxiuridine (BrdU) in the DNA of human fibroblasts dermal papilla cells (HFDPC), through

of totipotent plant

an immunocytochemical assay, over 48 hours.

cells in the so-called

The levels of fluorescence intensity indicate

Phyto-Peptidic

the proliferation index of HFDPC compared to

Fractions (PPF).

untreated cells in the basal medium.

These PPF are

The ingredient significantly induces the human

ultimately responsible

dermal papilla cells proliferation at 48 hours with

for the extremely

a proliferation index of up to 177 percent, showing

high regenerative

a growth factor-like effect. This is higher than other

capabilities of totipotent plant cells and represent the first cosmetics actives of this category which can maintain skin’s regenerative potential. These peptides have

| JANUARY 2018 | P C Review

The goal of the in vitro efficacy tests was to

been identified and an optimised culture

24

In vitro efficacy tests

growth factors (FGF, VEGF, HGF, IGF-1) and even higher than Minoxidil (+169 percent). The results are detailed in Figure 1. To carry out the experiment, the HFDCP were incubated over 24 to 48 hours with the product. IGF-1 levels were quantified from supernatants by


HAIR CARE ELISA. The production index results are compared to untreated cells in basal medium.

Figure 4: Trychogram

Capilia LongaPPF significantly induces the release of IGF-1 growth factor by the human dermal papilla cells with a production index up to 115 percent (compared to untreated cells) showing a faster activity than Minoxidil (36 percent) at 24 hours (see Figure 2). HFDPC were incubated over 24 hours with the product. The miRNA levels were quantified from HFDPC supernatants using qPCR. The Pfaffl method was used to analyse the raw data where the expression of each gene is compared with a control gen Actin (housekeeping gene). The production index results were compared to untreated cells in the basal medium. The results show the product significantly modulates the expression of the miRNA factors: • up to 6.3 times more miRNA-31 expression stimulation (compared to the control) • a reduction of up to 40 percent miRNA-22 expression index (compared to the control). Figures 5 and 6 show the modulation of miRNA31 and miRNA22 expression levels from derma papilla cells.

In vivo efficacy tests A panel of 40 Caucasian volunteers was selected for the in vivo tests. The volunteers were both male and female aged between 18 and 60. They all showed hair loss (ratio or hairs in Anagen and Telogen phases less than 4 (A/T=4 is considered the norm), with different etiologies (male and female androgenetic alopecia, seasonal alopecia, diffuse alopecia, hair loss due to technical processes, fragility and menopause), grade Hamilton I-IV for men and grade Ludwig I-II for women. It was a double-blind assay at 45, 90 and 150 days, with one application per day on the scalp and two evaluation points: placebo (20 vol.) and Capilia LongaPPF at one percent dosage (20 vol.). There was no change of hairstyle or colour during the study and the product was recommended to be applied before going to sleep, as this is when hair growth occurs. The combing test consisted of combing the hair, gathering all the detached strands and counting them. According to literature, on average the scalp sheds between 40 and 100 hairs per day. Higher numbers are considered abnormal and a sign of hair loss. The results show up to 89 percent hair loss reduction, with an average of 53 percent at 45 days, 57 percent at 90 days and 57 percent at 150 days. Since the biological cycle of hair requires three months to change from the Telogen to Anagen

significant improvement in the scalp coverage was also noted. TrichoScan microphotography was used to calculate the number of hairs on a select surface area. It measures the number of hairs per 0.25cm2 and calculates hair density per square centimetre. The results show up to 52 percent of hair density increase at 150 days and an average of 13.500 new hairs (see Figure 3).

Rebalancing the hair growth cycle To test the effect of the active in realigning the hair growth cycle, a set number of hairs (between 18 and 25) are plucked from the scalp to determine which phase of the hair growth cycle they are in. This is done by looking at the morphology of the roots and bulb, and assessing the appearance of the hair follicle at the beginning and end of the test. A tricogram was taken to determine the state of the roots of the hair bulbs and the scalp at a specific moment. Treatment with the product shows a 27 percent increase in the hair growth coefficient. It also shows that in 150 days the roots went from small, barely developed and in late Anagen phase to sheaths that are more extensive, with a more

Treatment with the product shows a 27 percent increase in the hair growth coefficient

developed regenerating area. Hair was also broader, more active and better anchored to its structure (see Figure 4). Both the in vitro and in vivo tests demonstrated the efficacy of Capilia LongaPPF, which is distributed in South Africa by Savannah Fine Chemicals. Capilia LongaPPF boosts hair growth density and quality, delays hair loss and strengthens hair. It also activates hair follicle regeneration, stimulates bulb micro-circulation and nutrition, and resets the hair cycle by extending the Anagen phase, in both men and women with any kind of alopecia. • *References available on request.

phase, results regarding the regenerative efficacy of the active to increase hair density could only be visible after 150 days, when the length of the newly generated hair can be seen. A

Savannah Fine Chemicals – sfc-info@savannah.co.za Vytrus Biotech – www.vytrus.com

P C Review | JANUARY 2018 |

25


HAIR CARE

Get stronger hair, wash after wash

than untreated hair. It works by creating additional hydrogen and ionic bonds within the hair keratin

structure, by penetrating deep into the hair fibre, to the cortex, and restores

Using cost-effective technology, Ashland is bringing the benefits of bond multiplier technology to the hair care industry with FiberHance bm solution. This awardwinning functional ingredient is available locally from IMCD South Africa.

B

hair fibre strength back to levels of virgin hair. Figure 1 shows the results of a comparative cyclic fatigue tensile test on FiberHance bm solution versus a fully formulated shampoo. These results suggest a mere one percent of the ingredient is capable of outperforming

ond multiplier is the buzzword

bonds and linkages are damaged

a well-known commercial shampoo,

for products that claim to repair

or broken. The main causes of

which is formulated with a long series

broken hair bonds as a result of

damaged and broken hair are

of ingredients typically claiming to

harsh treatments like bleaching,

ageing, chemical treatments and

have a positive effect on repairing and

environmental aggressors.

protecting the hair fibre.

colouring and heat styling. Olaplex, launched in the US in

FiberHance bm solution not only

According to Ashland, the

December 2014 as a professional hair

typical anti-breakage

care treatment to ‘end bad hair days’,

solutions currently on

continues to enjoy great acclaim with

the market only work

celebrities even swearing by it. Since then,

on the surface of

raw materials suppliers have developed

the hair by coating

new and innovative products for home

or strengthening it

use, some positioned as prevention pre-

through the use of

treatments and others to repair damage.

proteins. However,

In 2017, Ashland launched FiberHance

the long term and

bm solution – a small molecule in which

most effective solution

the chemical structure and dimension

is to repair and restore

have been specifically designed to

the internal structure.

DID YOU KNOW?

improves the strengthening performance of a shampoo but can also

simplify a formulation Ashland’s FiberHance bm solution received the Gold award in the category through the use Best New Functional Ingredient at inof one ingredient cosmetics Global in London, in 2017. instead of using FiberHance bm impressed judges with many to achieve its use of unique and sustainable the desired results. In ingredients that work simultaneously addition, this material to create and strengthen hair fibres without compromising can be added at any colour. time during the mixing process, though it’s best if

optimise multi-bond interactions within

added at the end before pH and

hair’s keratin cortex. The company’s payoff

Strengthened from within

line for this technology says it all: ‘Who

FiberHance bm solution (INCI:

viscosity adjustments are made. The

helps strengthen hair from the inside out?

Hydroxypropyl Gluconamide (and)

pH should be adjusted from four to five

We do!’

Hydroxypropyl Ammonium Gluconate)

for optimum performance. •

Weak hair breaks easily, is frizzy and

is an innovative, unique and patented

difficult to manage because the inner

ingredient that strengthens the internal

structure has been compromised, so

hair structure up to three times more

Figure 1: FiberHance bm solution test shampoo (#Z351-18A) versus a commercial product

Ashland – www.ashland.com IMCD South Africa – www.imcdgroup.com/ worldwide/south-africa

premium strengthening shampoo prototype (#Z351-18A). + 1% as is fiberHance™ bm solution showing best results in this comparative test

Control 3x Bleached

26

| JANUARY 2018 | P C Review

commercial serum deep repair shampoo with: panthenol cationic hydrolyzed protein hydrolyzed protein mix of seed oils


HAIR CARE

Beyond the basics

to more customised benefits The customisation trend, a renewed focus on scalp care using proven skin care actives, social media and online tutorials, and the curl liberation movement are driving developments in the hair care category. P C Review looks at the new ingredients and formulation technologies on the market, which have been developed with these various trends in mind.

S

outh Africa’s hair care category grew by six percent in 2016, according to market research firm Euromonitor International. Ongoing changes in consumers’

expectations have led to many technological advances and new product launches. One of the biggest changes is the natural hair care trend, which is becoming the norm as more and more women embrace their curls and adopt more textured hair styles. In line with this emerging curl pride movement, DSM Personal Care (DSM) has created new conditioning formulations that put the pleasure back into curl care. Data from consumer insight studies on women in three culturally diverse regions of Brazil revealed that feminist and Afro movements are shaping an inclusive, culturally diverse beauty landscape – and hair is playing a key role. Women everywhere, including in South Africa, are liberating their curls by resisting the pressure to straighten their hair. In support of this trend towards natural, personalised styling, Chempure, through its association with DSM, is empowering consumers with in-home mixes that encourage experimentation. The company also offers specific solutions for individual hair types and formulations for products that enable women to achieve the curls of their dreams. DSM’s new cushion curl mousse proves that curls can be soft. It defines and maintains curls, even in humid conditions and incorporates Tilamar Quat 2241 for an enhanced conditioning effect. Added vitamins provide scalp care while moisturising and strengthening hair fibres. Hair colour is protected by the UV filter, Parsol MCX.

28

| JANUARY 2018 | P C Review


HAIR CARE

Focus on scalp care Hannon’s scalp therapy treatment promises to relieve dry itchy scalp issues and assist with hair loss. This penetrative treatment is rich in vitamins B5, C and E, as well as bioflavonoids (antioxidants), jojoba, wheat germ – which has anti-inflammatory properties – and Liposomes to stimulate hair re-growth and restore the hair and scalp’s natural oil and protein balance. This and other Hannon hair care products can be

DID YOU KNOW?

DSM’s curl defining cream conditions, protects and styles hair for a natural look that keeps curls moving. This formulation is infused with care ingredients, including Phytantriol and D-panthenol for strength, heat and split-end protection and moisturisation;

purchased online at www.hannon.co.za/ Hair-Care.

Forecasters have predicted and found it to be suitable the ‘head spa’ to be big in 2018. for hair care applications This is literally a facial for the scalp, such as anti-ageing which combines scalp cleansing, a scalp care. relaxing head massage and scalp and A double-blind hair conditioning. It was originally placebo-controlled developed in Japan and is influenced by Indian Ayurveda clinical study showed practices. Source: www. a significant, immediate latfusa.com and sustained improvement

Parsol SLX for colour protection and to

in scalp moisturisation. The study

defend against structural damage; argan oil for

was performed on female volunteers

shine enhancement and Phytaluronate PF for

with different skin and hair types,

moisturisation and a light, permeable visco-

including Caucasian, African, Hispanic

elastic film.

and Asian. The company tested a leaveon hair serum containing two percent

Effective scalp hydration

PatcH2O against a placebo in two

Consumers around the world are looking

groups. Scalp hydration was evaluated

for products that will help protect their scalp

by dielectric conductivity at baseline, at

against dehydration, while improving hair

four hours; and three and 21 days post

structure and shine. In response, BASF has

treatment. Increased scalp hydration

reassessed its highly effective hydra-protect

up to 52 percent against baseline was

technology for skin moisturisation, PatcH2O,

demonstrated. Volunteers indicated

A doubleblind placebocontrolled clinical study showed a significant, immediate and sustained improvement in scalp moisturisation

cluding improvement of hair gloss

no acid with

P C Review | JANUARY 2018 |

29


HAIR CARE their scalp felt more comfortable and that PatcH2O led to a noticeable improvement in hair quality and shine. The patch technology is a result of BASF’s dual expertise in natural macromolecules and the controlled release of active ingredients. Acting on two levels, PatcH2O offers optimum hydration on the scalp’s surface and, like a protective film, it reduces water evaporation owing to the unique combination of natural biopolymers, hyaluronic acid, alginate and a natural glucan known as pullulan, which forms a 3D molecular mesh. This micro-network is loaded with a moisturising complex containing glycerin, L-serine, trehalose and urea, which is gradually released into the heart of the stratum corneum to rebalance the moisture level in the scalp. PatcH2O is available in South Africa from Botanichem.

Precise science for assessing split ends Every two years, the DWI – Leibnitz Institute for Interactive Materials organises a Hair Science Symposium. It offers a unique platform for discussing the most current and appealing ideas in hair research and hair care science. During the 20 th symposium in Dresden, Germany, Symrise presented three papers on evaluating split ends; the adverse effects of treatments on Caucasian and African hair; and a hair tress specification study, which won one of two Best Lecture Awards. The search for solutions for beautiful and healthy hair remains a key focal point in the cosmetics industry. For this reason, the symposium focuses on science, which forms the nucleus of innovation in hair care. Symrise further develops existing research to understand the needs of various hair types and has presented three contributions to the reasons for common hair problems in an effort to develop possible solutions.

*cli

nica

lly p rov en

HMA UV SHELL

HAIR PHOTOPROTECTION SOLAR PROTECTION EVEN AFTER 5 WASHES*

Sustainability of the solar filter in hair APPLICATION

AFTER WASHING

0,016

100

% of washed active (eliminated)

g.active/g.hair

90

0,015

80

0,012

650%

0,008

0,004 0,002 0

0,002 HMA-UV Shell

imperative for hair care. Yet with daily washing rituals limiting the amount of protection one can impart on hair, it’s uncommon to include a UV filter in a wash-off hair product. Infinitec, represented in South Africa by Materia Medica, has overcome the washing factor by developing a photo-protective active that remains on hair even after five consecutive washes. This unique solar filter technology uses a micro-adhesive bond, which allows the sun filters to bind to the hair, offering long-lasting photo-protection that remains unaffected by washing.

Hair researchers looked closely at the differences between virgin and damaged human hair tresses using fluorescence microscopy and differential scanning calorimetry (DSC), and complemented this with mechanical properties studies. Hair tresses, such as virgin dark brown Caucasian hair, were sourced from various suppliers. The team noticed differences within the same hair type and studied the implications of these in tests. Symrise presented a novel application of image analysis for better assessing the performance of hair care products,

methods and is more precise. The study covers the evaluation of the associated adverse

60 50 40

0,006

hair as they do on skin. A good solar protection active is therefore

technique is said to distinguish itself from existing industry

70

0,01

UV RAYS CAN have the same damaging effects on the scalp and

summarising a method for evaluating split ends. This 100

90%

0,014

SUN PROTECTION FOR HAIR

effects of bleaching and dyeing as well as the effects of UV, thermal and mechanical damage on Caucasian and

30

African hair. Symrise worked with the University of Campinas

20

in Brazil on this topic.

10

Uncoarcervated solar filter

0

10 HMA-UV Shell

Uncoarcervated solar filter

Protecting hair from pollution Despite efforts to decrease emissions, global atmospheric pollution grew by eight percent in 2016. Today more than 80 percent of the world’s population lives in urban areas where air pollution is above the threshold recommended by the World Health Organization (WHO).

CONTACT CHANTAL O’BRIEN–DE VILLIERS

072 731 3909

www.materiamedica.co.za 30

| JANUARY 2018 | P C Review

Studies conducted by the WHO have demonstrated that excessive and continuing exposure to different types of pollutants adversely affect people’s health, enhancing numerous pathologies. On hair, the impact is more noticeable and immediate due to the deposition of a wide variety of pollutants, enhanced by the adherent action of


HAIR CARE hair products. This leaves hair opaque, dry and weakened with a low combability tolerance, affecting its aesthetics and mechanical properties. Hair does not have a self-protection system or any regenerative capacity, so it’s mostly unprotected and vulnerable to external aggressors and the damaging effects of pollution. As consumers are more concerned about the effects of pollution on the properties of their hair, anti-pollution products are gaining momentum. Hair can

of pollutants by 17 percent (see Figure 1), aiding a

be protected by reducing the contact of polluting

62 percent increase in combability, increasing hair

agents with hair fibres. This understanding was the

strength by 43 percent and improving its brightness

inspiration behind Chemyunion’s proven effective

by 20 percent even after exposure to pollutants.

anti-pollution solution for the hair care market. Polluout is a proprietary technology of natural

Figure 1: SEM proof of Polluout’s efficacy in reducing particle adhesion

Chemgrit Cosmetics is the local agent for Chemyunion. •

composition which reduces the deposition of polluting agents while providing immediate benefits for hair. This ingredient is composed of a synergistic network of plant polysaccharides associated with green tea, panthenol and xylitol, which form a flexible and protective film. The plant polysaccharides also provide antioxidant action against the photo-degradation of the hair fibres. In efficacy tests, Polluout reduced the deposition

BASF – www.basf.co.za Botanichem – www.botanichem.co.za Chemgrit Cosmetics – www.chemgritcosmetics.co.za Chempure – www.chempure.co.za Chemyunion – www.chemyunion.com DSM – www.dsm.com/personal-care Infinitec – www.infinitec.es Materia Medica – www.materiamedica.co.za Symrise – www.symrise.com

Crest Chemicals

Personal Care Offers Solutions for Hair care Silicones from

Mono Propylene Glycol USP from

Ammonium Thioglycolate & Thioglycolate from

Actives & Naturals from

Contact us: Johannesburg (011)254 3300, Cape Town (021)534 3140, Durban (031)9025324, East London (043) 726 8713 and Port Elizabeth (041)453 1981 Crest chemicals.indd 1

2018/01/05 3:03 PM

P C Review | JANUARY 2018 |

31


HAIR CARE

2018 #hairgoals Consumers’ hair care wish list is changing with an increased focus on natural styles and product customisation with offerings tailored to their individual needs. Kim MacCallum from Vantage Specialty Ingredients shares insight into new naturally derived ingredients and multitasking formulations set to help brands and consumers achieve their hair goals in 2018.

Figure 1: Fucogel ex vivo study results

A

ccording to Euromonitor, consumers

Botanicals are the fastest growing ingredient

want healthy looking hair. There is

category in hair care. Vantage has prided itself on

also a growing global trend towards

being a global leader in the supply of natural and

embracing natural curls and

plant-based oils. The company has noted that plant-

colours. This might be due to ongoing economic constraints as it becomes increasingly costly to maintain certain looks. Consumer purchasing is

inspired and premium botanical ingredients are set to attract more consumers. The consumption pattern of conditioning hair ingredients is becoming similar to that of skin care. The share of emollients within conditioning

currently influenced by two

ingredients is increasing. The green trend could also

main trends:

be responsible for consumers’ search for alternatives

1. d  evelopments in skin care

to silicones. However, most hair care products

2. the green/natural trend.

currently contain silicones and will continue to do so

These trends manifest

to ensure their effectiveness.

through the extension and

The demand for sulphate-free and mild surfactant

segmentation of hair care

cleansers is strong. As there are very few purely

routines and greater interest

natural ingredients available for hair care, the focus

in ingredient labelling. As

tends to rather be on ‘naturally derived’ options

manufacturers reinforce their

from plant or animal sources with more eco-friendly

efficacy claims with little in

profiles. As a result, consumers are inclined to focus

the way of innovation and as

more on mild products rather than natural ones.

emerging markets are leading growth, traditional and safe

The future is customisable

ingredients are experiencing

Most consumers tend to spend ages trying to

a revival.

tame their curls or coax them straight with oils, humectants and brushes of all barrel sizes and

Figure 2: Visualisation by videomicroscopy and quantification of particles by image analysis before and after treatment with Pollustop

bristle textures. Yet with the increased focus on saving time, they are more likely to start embracing their texture with customisable products. Science-first brand, Virtue has created collections for washing, care and maintenance based on consumers’ common hair textures and what they aspire to have – in fact, Virtue offers an online survey to help consumers perfectly customise their hair care routines. Vantage recently relaunched a range of natural oils and butters focused specifically on hair care. The company has also developed six multitasking formulations using oils of grapeseed,

32

| JANUARY 2018 | P C Review


HAIR CARE Table 1: Natural hair elixir

Phase

1

2

Ingredients

INCI

%

DW Jojoba Golden

Simmondsia Chinenses (Jojoba) Seed Oil

29.50

Lipovol Sun

Hellianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil

10.00

Lipovol G

Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Oil

5.00

Lipovol C-76

Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil

15.00

Lipovol Argan Virgin

Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil

20.00

Lipovol A

Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Oil

20.00

Vitamin E

Tocopherol

0.50

Preservative

Preservative

qs

This multi-purpose, natural oil blend packs a nourishment boost and brings smoothness to the most demanding hair. It can be used alone or added to hair masques and conditioners for a truly personalised experience

conducted an ex vivo study on hair fibres denatured in H 2O2 and treated with three percent Fucogel versus a

DID YOU KNOW?

sunflower, safflower, coconut, argan, jojoba, avocado and crambe, as well as shea butter. One of these formulations is shared in Table 1. DW Jojoba Oil is the star

control. The hair fibres were observed before and after rinsing using microscopic

analysis. Results showed International reports say ‘science Fucogel created sells across beauty lines’. So, if you’re incredible smoothing wondering how to make your hair care of the hair fibre in both products more innovative, one option is leave on and rinse to use skin care ingredients proven off applications (see beneficial for hair, which elevate the level of sophistication of a hair Figure 1). care product. Source: www. Yet the blurred lines allure.com between skin and hair care

ingredient in the new range of formulations. This oil is extremely beneficial

actives don’t stop there. Solabia did similar tests on hair tresses to

The consumption pattern of conditioning hair ingredients is becoming similar to that of skin care

as it mimics skin’s natural sebum. When used

determine the anti-pollution protective effects

on normal, undamaged hair, jojoba oil coats

of its award-winning skin care active ingredient,

the hair shaft, improves combability and shine,

Pollustop (Biosaccharide gum-4 (and)

leaves hair feeling silky and smooth, and

1.2-hexanediol). In an ex vivo study, hair locks

prevents damage. On dry, damaged hair it

were treated with a PM1 (air pollution) solution.

penetrates the hair, replacing lost lipids and

They were then cleansed with a shampoo

repairing hair from within. It also smoothes

containing Glycofilm 1.5P (Pollustop) at one

damaged cuticles to impart improved shine

percent and 0.5 percent versus a placebo and

while reducing roughness and preventing

an untreated control. The following results were

further damage. Lipovol Argan Virgin is a tried

documented (see Figure 2):

and trusted oil in the global cosmetics industry.

• up to +84 percent protection versus

This 100 percent pure virgin argan oil imparts protective effects against hair damage and provides softness to hair. Lipobutter Shea is

the untreated control (+48 percent on average, p<0.0001) • up to +91 percent ‘cleansing’

widely used in hair and skin care formulations

action versus the untreated

and is very popular in Africa. It imparts body

control (+60 percent on average,

and richness to a formulation and offers hair

p<0.0001)

protective properties during wet combing.

• 100 percent positive response.

Lipovol Crambe (Abysinnian oil) is known

While hair care saw some interesting

for its frizz control properties. It also brings

changes in 2017, consumers’

a light sensory feel to a formulation. Good

renewed hair goals are set to

old-fashioned coconut oil, Lipovol C-76 brings

bring about even more changes

softness and lustre to hair.

in 2018 with their increasing focus

Spreading love from skin to hair We have seen many of our skin care materials

Vantage’s six new multitasking hair care formulations address various concerns ranging from beard care and healthy looking hair to improved shine and conditioning

on beneficial materials that offer a little bit more than ‘cleanse’ and ‘condition’ benefits. •

crossing over to hair care. Recently, Solabia investigated how one of its old favourites, Fucogel – Biosaccharide gum-1, could be used in a hair care application. The company

Vantage Specialty Chemicals – www.vantagespecialties.com

P C Review | JANUARY 2018 |

33


HAIR CARE

Go SLES-free without

compromising on performance The Akypo range of anionic surfactants from Kao Chemicals is perfect for improving the mildness of cleansing formulations. Available locally from CIM Chemicals, these surfactants make formulating sulphatefree shampoos with high foam-ability a reality.

N

Akypo range offers excellent performance in preventing colour loss in dyed hair when compared to other anionic surfactants. In shampoos it protects colour, preventing it from fading during the washing process. To study the anti-colour fade benefits of Akypo Foam RL 40, Kao Chemicals tested

owadays, personal care brands

performance ratio, while Akypo Soft 100 BVC

and manufacturers demand

is the mildest anionic surfactant in the range.

Sodium Laureth Sulphate

The former is recommended for a wide

(SLES)-free alternatives in

range of mild shampoos, including those for

order to produce truly mild products that

babies and professional use. It is also ideal

meet consumers’ hair and sensitive skin

for building up viscosity in sulphate-free rinse-

care needs.

off systems. A mild shampoo formulation

Products in the Akypo range can be used as the main surfactant combined with

two references, C-151 and C-162, which are formulations optimised as shampoos for coloured hair. Both formulations are very mild for skin and scalp; they clean while reducing colour fade and improving colour shine. C-151 contains SLES as the primary anionic surfactant, while C-162 is a SLESfree formulation based on Akypo Foam RL

featuring Akypo Foam RL 40 is shared in

40. After washing, both references show

Table 1.

colour retention capabilities comparable to

amphoteric and non-ionic surfactants to replace SLES. Akypo Foam RL 40 is the best

Long lasting colour protection

option due to its properties and good cost/

Coloured hair also requires special care

a benchmark product that claims ‘colour protection’ on its label (see Figure 1). •

to prevent fading caused by UV exposure,

Table 1: Mild shampoo C-101

100 80 Color retention (%)

CIM Chemicals – www.cim.co.za Kao Chemicals – www.kaochemicals-eu.com

washing and other external aggressors. The

Figure 1: Colour retention assessment

60 40

Ingredients

INCI

%

Betadet HR

Cocamidopropyl Betaine

17.0

Akypo Foam RL 40

Sodium Laureth-5 Carboxylate

8.0

Amidet N PEG-4

Rapeseedamide

3.8

Quartamin BTC-131

Behenoyl PG-Trimonium Chloride

0.3

Additives*

Fragrances, dyes, preservatives etc.

qs

Deionised Water

20

Up to 100%

pH adjuster

qs Appearance (20ºC) clear viscous liquid

0

Viscosity Brookfield (20ºC, cP) 7.500 approx.

C-151

C-162

Market product

The high foam properties and mildness of this shampoo are comparable to or better than a benchmark product

Choose AKYPO surfactants for mild cleansing and sulphate-free shampoo formulations! The benefits are endless: • vegetable derived fatty alcohols • proven mildness to skin and eyes • good eco-toxicity properties • excellent compatibility with all kinds of surfactants • high foaming properties • boosting effect on the performance of polymers/ conditioning agents.

Brad: 060 583 5324 www.cim.co.za

CIM Chemicals.indd 1

34

| JANUARY 2018 | P C Review

2018/01/09 7:04 AM


INDUSTRY TALK

Are manufacturers ready for

Industry 4.0?

Total digitisation of the manufacturing process, from cost reduction to increased agility and revenues, is expected to enable internal improvements and production innovation. While Industry 4.0 is music to manufacturers’ ears, how far off are they from achieving it?

I

t may or may not come as a surprise

aggregate information across the

that some manufacturers are way off,

supply chain.

according to new research conducted

Despite the rise in the Internet of Things (IoT)

by Sapio Research on behalf of Zetes.

and aspiration of digital supply networks,

The results reveal the true extent of the

organisational effectiveness is still reliant on

challenges currently facing the industry.

dated communications.

Only 29 percent of manufacturers admit

The fact that over two thirds of

to truly understanding the digital supply

manufacturers cannot provide decision

chain network (DSN), with less than 15

makers with access to the information

percent implementing a DSN. The biggest

required to make informed business

challenge to adoption is the lack of

decisions, is of significant concern.

information visibility, which in-turn damages

Although 89 percent of manufacturers

the essential decisions required to embrace

the chances of an organisation being able

state ‘they believe a single

demand-driven manufacturing

to access relevant insight in real-time.

view of information from

and to meet, if not exceed,

supply chain operations

customer expectations.

Challenges and concerns

is key’ – to date, only 30

The clear benefits include

Manufacturers state securing meaningful

percent have full end-to-

becoming more agile and

intelligence from their end-to-end supply

end visibility. The next 12

maximising the investment in

chain as a challenge (80 percent). Dealing

months will be a crucial time

expensive equipment – and

with real-time information (75 percent)

period for manufacturers as

doing so while driving down

and the ability to manage the intelligence

they take steps to transform

inventory levels and releasing

are also significant hurdles that need to

their businesses. There are

be overcome.

positive signs that many are

Other key highlights from the

working capital. Séba stien Sliski

starting to make some vital

manufacturing research include:

changes, because:

• more than half (59 percent) do not have

•3  8 percent of respondents are looking to

real-time visibility of stock levels within the organisation

improve supplier collaboration •3  5 percent are looking to improve supplier

• 65 percent do not have a real-time view of suppliers’ manufacturing schedules

performance monitoring •3  4 percent are looking to implement

• 68 percent do not have a real-time view

predictive alerts to mitigate disruption.

• only a third of manufacturers can

Zetes comments: ‘Manufacturers know that across the industry there needs to be greater focus on speed, accuracy and agility within the end-to-end supply chain. The only way to reach such heights is to optimise processes between legacy and new systems, as well as providing key stakeholders with meaningful insight from

of manufacturing volumes across plants within the organisation

Sébastien Sliski, GM of supply chain solutions at

Agility, collaboration and realtime information

BRIDGING THE GAP IN AUGUST 2017, Sapio Research surveyed 330 senior managers (on behalf of Zetes) within a range of manufacturing sectors across South Africa and Europe. A full overview of the results is detailed in the report: Manufacturers want supply chain visibility and collaboration; what’s holding them back? Visit www.zetes.com/en/whitepapers/manufacturing-report/567 to download the report.

real-time data sources.’ He says connecting different internal and

So, what is going to be key to

external silos and harmonising that data is

realising the benefits of the

pivotal to making valid comparisons and

digitisation movement? Creating

supporting intelligent decision-making. ‘The

an integrated information

pressure is on – but once manufacturers

layer fed by core systems,

begin to make small changes within the

enabling collaboration between

supply chain and become more proactive,

departments and being able to

they will be in a better position to become

access the right information, at the

fully immersed in Industry 4.0.’ •

right time, from anywhere in the supply chain. Most importantly, empowering management to take

Zetes South Africa – www.zetes.co.za

P C Review | JANUARY 2018 |

35


PHARMACEUTICAL FOCUS//Excipients

How to achieve QbD in

paediatric formulations? Using Armor Pharma’s Excipress GR150 lactose for direct compression, the University of Barcelona’s Department of Pharmacy and Pharmaceutical Technology published a poster on key factors to consider when producing tablets for paediatric patients. The authors of the poster are Ricard Canadell, Anna Nardi, Isaac Nofrerías, Marc Suñé, Pilar Pérez, Montse Miñarro, Josep Tico, Josep Negre, García Encarna.

O

btaining formulations for paediatric diseases is said to be one of the major challenges

pharmaceutical manufacturers will face in the coming years. In the European Medicines Agency’s guideline on pharmaceutical development of medicines for paediatric use1, the following general considerations are stated: ‘Any medicine should be designed to meet patient needs and consistently deliver the intended product performance.

DID YOU KNOW?

Direct compression is ideal for powders that can be mixed well and their critical material do not require further granulation attributes (CMAs), steps prior to being introduced to the tablet press. Source: www. according to their pharmaceuticalonline.com function in the formula, are among the aspects to

A systematic approach to

consider as part of the product

pharmaceutical development in accordance with ICH Q8 could be

drug CQA. Considering SeDeM methodology 2,

followed to meet these objectives.

characterisation parameters of powder, which provide the necessary information about a substance’s appropriateness in obtaining tablets by direct compression. The following parameters are considered: bulk density (Da); tapped density (Dc); inter-particle porosity (Ie); carr index (IC%); cohesion index (Icd); hausner ratio

When applied, the quality target

it is proposed as a CMA that the

(IH); angle of repose (α); flowability (t”);

product profile (QTPP) should be

compressibility and flowability

loss on drying (%HR); hygroscopicity (%H);

established taking into consideration

indexes are calculated for the

particle size (%Pf); and homogeneity

the specific needs of the paediatric

major excipient chosen during

index (IH).

population. Based on the QTPP, the

development to improve the API’s

critical product quality attributes

index of compressibility. These

(CQAs) should then be identified as

designated CMAs could be

Definition of characterisation parameters

well as the formulation and process

considered as specification to control

Whenever possible, methods indicated

parameters that may affect them.

variability in the excipient during

in pharmacopoeias were applied.

This approach will help in defining the

routine production. This is due to its

If not available, a system based

pharmaceutical design of paediatric

importance in the uniformity dosage of

on the usual practice in galenic

medicinal products’.

paediatric products.

research was proposed and adapted

One of the indicated administration

As an example of the proposed

specifically for the SeDeM diagram.

routes for paediatric patients is oral ,

methodology, an excipient produced

The following methods were applied for

proposing orodispersible tablets

specifically for direct compression

each parameter:

as an appropriate formulation.

– Excipress GR150 (Lactose

• Da, according to the method described

There are different technologies

Monohydrate) – has been analysed.

1

for their production. However,

in Section 2.9.15 of Eur. Ph. • Dc, according to the method described

direct compression has the most

Excipient classification

relevant economic interest among

The SeDeM method is based on

• Ie = Dc – Da / DcxDa

pharmaceutical manufacturers. The

experimental study and quantitative

• IC% is calculated from Da and Dc as:

correct choice of excipients and

determination. It is applicable to the

36

| JANUARY 2018 | P C Review

in Section 2.9.15 of Eur. Ph.

IC=(Dc _ Da / Dc)x100


PHARMACEUTICAL FOCUS//Excipients

• Icd is determined by directly compressing the product under study; determining the hardness (N) of tablets obtained and calculating mean hardness obtained • IH is calculated from Da and Dc as: IH= Dc/Da •α  is the angle of the cone formed when the product is passed through a funnel with the following dimensions: funnel

Table 2: SeDeM Mean Incidence values for EXCIPRESS GR150

Figure 3: SeDeM diagram for EXCIPRESS GR150 ® Batch P1068GX1

1(*)

2(*) 3(*) Mean

Dimension

7.02

6.97

6.57

6.85

Compressibility

4.92

4.94

5.14

5.00

Flowability

7.64

7.74

7.73

7.70

Lubricity/Stability 9.55

9.44

9.72

9.57

Lubricity/Dosage

5.02

5.85

5.43

5.42

(*)1: Batch P1068GX1, 2: Batch P1062GX1, 3: Batch P1038GX

height 9.5cm; upper diameter of spout 7.2cm; internal diameter at the bottom; and narrow end of spout 1.8cm. The

Table 3: SeDeM good compressibility index for EXCIPRESS GR150

angle tangent value (α) of the cone was calculated using the following equation: Tg(α) = h/r • t ”, according to the method described in Section 2.9.16-2 of Eur. Ph.

ICG

1(*)

2(*)

3(*)

Mean

6.49

6.42

6.57

6.49

(*)1: Batch P1068GX1, 2: Batch P1062GX1, 3: Batch P1038GX

The following SeDeM diagrams

•%  HR is determined by the loss on-drying

were obtained:

test carried out according to the general method 2.2.32 in Eur. Ph. •%  H is determining the sample weight increase after being kept in a

Figure 1: SeDeM diagram for EXCIPRESS GR150 ® Batch P1038GX

humidifier at ambient relative humidity of 76 percent (± two percent) and a temperature of 22°C ± two degrees Celsius for 24 hours •p  ercentage of particles measuring <50μ,

Compressibility and flowability index

%Pf is determined using the sieve test,

should be characterised as critical material

according to the general method 2.9.12

attributes during the R&D process for

of Eur. Ph.

paediatric formulations using SeDeM

• Iϴ, according to the general method

method. This is to control the uniformity of

described in 2.9.12 of Eur. Ph.

dosage of orodispersible tablets during

The next step was to convert the numeric

the manufacturing process. In order to

limits for each SeDeM parameter to radius

this keep this uniformity under control, the

values ‘r’. At the end, mean incidence

excipient’s routine results for compressibility

values and good compressibility index are considered as a CMA2.

Characterising the excipient

Compressibility and flowability index should be characterised as critical material attributes

and flowability indexes should be near Figure 2: SeDeM diagram for EXCIPRESS GR150 ® Batch P1062GX1

to the experimental values observed. Deviation will be specified considering the excipient variability observed during tests.

Using the SeDeM method, Excipress GR150

According to the study, for Excipress

(Lactose Monohydrate) was distinguished

GR150 a compressibility index value of 5.0

in three different batches, with the

(-5 percent) and a flowability index value

following results:

of 7.7 (-5 percent) were proposed as CMA. Armor Pharma’s full range of

Table 1: SeDeM experimental radius values results for Excipress GR150

pharmaceutical excipients, including

1(*)

2(*)

3(*)

Mean

Excipress GR150, is available locally from

Da

6.36

6.42

6.00

6.29

Orkila South Africa. •

Dc

7.67

7.52

7.14

7.44

Ie

2.24

1.90

2.22

2.12

IC

3.42

2.93

3.19

3.18

Icd

9.10

10.00

10.00

9.70

IH

8.97

9.15

9.05

9.06

(α)

4.96

5.09

5.14

5.06

t”

9.00

9.00

9.00

9.00

%HR

9.30

8.88

9.46

9.21

%H

10.00

10.00

9.98

9.99

%Pf

7.19

7.19

7.39

3.65

2.85

4.30

Key findings to consider

Armor Pharma – www.armor-pharma.com Orkila South Africa – www.orkila.com University of Barcelona – www.ub.edu/web/ub/en

Bearing the 12 galenic parameters in mind, the SeDeM method allows the excipients

REFERENCES:

7.26

to be characterised and defines its strong

1. EMA/CHMP/QWP/805880/2012 Rev. 2

3.60

points to consider during the product

(*)1: Batch P1068GX1, 2: Batch P1062GX1, 3: Batch P1038GX

formula design, especially compressibility and flowability index.

2. Suñé-Negre JM, Roig M, Fuster R, Hernandez C, Ruhi R, GarciaMontoya E, et al. New classification of directly compressible (DC) excipients in function of the SeDeM Diagram Expert System. Int J Pharm. 2014;470(1–2):15–27.

P C Review | JANUARY 2018 |

37


PHARMACEUTICAL FOCUS//Excipients

A smart ingredient

that delivers compliance

The taste of a medicine is an important compliance factor for certain patient groups, including children, the elderly and those with chronic conditions. Beneo says choosing the right filler-binder can enhance overall palatability significantly.

G

The sachet trend Due to its cost-effectiveness and time saving benefits, dry blending of all ingredients without further processing is the most favoured method of drug preparation. Dry blends can be used in

erman company,

galenIQ considerably suppresses the

compression and compaction processes

Beneo’s galenIQ is

bitterness of a quinine hydrochloride

or simply filled into capsules, bottles or

the pharmaceutical

solution. In comparison to maltitol,

sachets. The sachet trend is already

grade of Isomalt – a

mannitol and sucrose, the addition of

becoming evident, with line extensions

disaccharide alcohol derived from

galenIQ (grade 721) in concentrations

of well-established brands increasingly

beet sugar. GalenIQ has a sweetness

as low as three to six percent w/w led

moving into sachets and stick pack

and taste profile very close to sucrose

to a significantly higher reduction in

packaging. This is because dry blends

because of its source material. With

bitterness. It is therefore not surprising

facilitate a convenient and fashionable

its well-balanced sweetness, the filler-

that galenIQ is the excipient of choice

form of drug delivery.

binder has no significant off-tastes

where taste matters.

When developing these powder mixtures for oral application, it is important

or aftertaste.

A range of grades

that bulk excipients fulfil the necessary

of APIs, masks the unpleasant taste

This filler-binder from Beneo, which

requirements, such as excellent flowability,

of ingredients such as plant extracts

is represented throughout southern

low hygroscopicity, high physical stability

and contributes to a palatable,

Africa by Savannah Fine Chemicals,

during mixing and high dilution potential

pleasant taste profile and mouthfeel

is primarily considered to be a soluble

and content uniformity, to name just a few.

GalenIQ reduces the bitter taste

in the final pharmaceutical or nutraceutical product. A recent comparative study has shown that

solution for tablets and powdered

DID YOU KNOW?

products. However, the past 10 years have proven it to be a truly multi-functional

Isomalt (galenIQ) is monographed in leading pharmacopoeias (USP-NF, Ph. Eur., BP) and is approved in both Japan (JPE) and China (with an Import Drug License).

Technological benefits With well-defined particle size distribution, galenIQ 720 and 721 provide outstanding

excipient. GalenIQ has

flow and mixing properties. This filler-

been used to coat

binder is the perfect excipient for easy

solid dosage forms, as

tabletting because of its excellent

a component in hot

compactability and high dilution

melt extrusion processes and, most importantly,

it has improved the taste of many medicines, even in liquid applications. The galenIQ product range

potential. At the same time only low compaction forces are required to achieve high tablet hardness. Agglomerated galenIQ is a white, odourless and water soluble material with a unique morphology. The porous

comprises different grades that serve

and large surface areas enable high

a broad variety of dosage forms.

concentrations of active ingredients to

Besides the agglomerated grades

be incorporated without compromising

720 and 721 for direct compression

the flow properties of the final mixture.

and dry blend applications, the 800

These surface structures also prevent

series offers special powder grades of

segregation, even in very low dose

different solubilities and particle size

blends, throughout the whole process,

distributions for wet granulation, roller

ensuring the homogeneity of the

compaction and other agglomeration

mixture and subsequently the required

processes. Sieved grades for starter

content uniformity. •

pellets (galenIQ 960), for pan coating and syrups (galenIQ 981) as well as for medicated confectionery (galenIQ 990) complete the range.

38

| JANUARY 2018 | P C Review

Beneo – www.beneo.com Savannah Fine Chemicals – sfc-info@savannah.co.za


SAFETY & HYGIENE

How safe is your air?

Smart energy management specialist, Ulilog has launched SafeAir. These ultraviolet air purifying devices are set to improve health and safety in a manufacturing environment.

U

sing ultraviolet germicidal irradiation (UVGI), SafeAir devices ensure clean, healthy indoor air quality by proactively controlling and reducing the

transmission of pathogens such as airborne bacteria, viruses and fungi as well as yeast and mould spores. They also neutralise known carcinogens like volatile organic compounds (VOCs) and oxides of nitrogen (NOx). According to Ulilog directors, Trevor Williams and Gail Reynolds, SafeAir can be used in conjunction with an HVAC system in a manufacturing environment. The correctly sized and ceiling mounted, fan-assisted, upper room UVGI air purifiers have a deadly effect on microorganisms such as pathogens, viruses and bacteria. Williams explains: ‘The ioniser incorporated in these units remove larger particles from the air, such as dust, mould spores and pollen with minimal ventilation. These neutralised particles drop down or attach to

DID YOU KNOW?

UVGI is a sterilisation method that uses UV light at sufficiently ‘SafeAir customised in-duct or short wavelength to break down portable UVC systems including microorganisms. It is used in dust removal would incorporate a variety of applications, including food, air and the design and implementation of water purification. a filtration system, installed after the

surfaces to be eliminated with normal good practice surface cleaning methods.’ HVAC and upper-room UVGI systems are

UVC/ionisation component of the purifier. The neutralised particles are trapped in the filter allowing only sterilised air to recirculate. The filters

complementary, providing an efficient means to

will need to be replaced as per a maintenance

purify air. ‘The neutralised particles get cycled with

schedule,’ explains Williams. ‘HVAC data and a

the HVAC air and whilst still suspended, a large

site audit would be necessary to design such

percentage get drawn into the ducting and can

customised sterilisation and dust removal

be efficiently filtered by the HVAC filters,’ he adds,

systems. This can be done in the HVAC

advising that normal good practice surface and

system by incorporating the components

filter cleaning must always be maintained with all

and filters within the HVAC ducting.

air purifiers. SafeAir in-duct UVGI systems are designed

The standard range of compact purifiers can be easily fitted onto a

or existing HVAC installations. In this way, SafeAir

ceiling or against a wall. ‘SafeAir is

will kill microorganisms within the HVAC ducting,

extremely safe and emits zero direct

including targeting moist warm corners and filters

radiation in accordance with the new

where microorganisms thrive.

international standard. The National Health Laboratory Service report of

visit would be needed to identify the variables

February 2017 concluded that the two UVGI

such as air flow speeds, ducting size and fresh air

purifiers that were submitted for evaluation

component in order to ascertain and design the

were 100 percent effective in reducing the

UVC dosage necessary to clean the air for the

bacterial count to six log reduction (99 percent)

specific area and risk.

in the laboratory test room, in line with the

High risk areas

SafeAir devices are fitted with UVC lamps that have a life span of three years or 9 000 hrs

and flexible SafeAir ultraviolet air

and positioned for optimum results within new

Reynolds says in-depth HVAC data and a site

A SafeAir ultraviolet air purifier installed in a pharmaceutical manufacturing environment

principal for design as a disinfection system,’ Williams concludes. •

SafeAir units can be customised for cleanrooms and are designed to sterilise and remove dust from high risk areas such as these.

Ulilog – www.ulilog.co.za

P C Review | JANUARY 2018 |

39


SAFETY & HYGIENE

Take the

proactive approach An all-embracing health and safety management programme must ensure that the strict hygiene conditions required in the pharmaceutical industry are enforced daily, throughout the supply chain. Can technology help reduce the risks?

A

A Rentokil employee checking hygiene levels in a customer’s warehouse

As these sites are brought together to create a totally integrated supply chain, the associated risks compound and increase. While this research was conducted specifically on food supply chains, the risks

health and safety

is becoming increasingly difficult to

to a pharmaceutical supply chain are just

management programme

manage. Without the capacity to review

as pertinent.

has a critical role to play in

multiple supply chains, which may make

This analysis shows that of those 200 000

up any single product, maintaining

recommendations:

produces superior, safe, quality

hygiene standards is virtually impossible.

• 45 percent related to sanitation hygiene

products. Advanced technologies

This is where connected technologies

• 19 percent correlated with business

– including remote monitoring, data

can really help. Innovative technological

ensuring that a company

integrity (proofing)

recording and analytics – can provide

systems can deliver data insights that

• six percent linked to storage racking

a real solution to help mitigate hygiene

enable businesses to identify trends

• the remaining 30 percent connected to

risks in increasingly complex modern production chains. Current health and safety plans need to focus on risk reduction across the whole supply chain. Defining control points and control measures that minimise hygiene risks are key to assuring health and safety. Yet the

and trouble spots. Ultimately,

DID YOU KNOW?

this helps organisations to take a more proactive approach to hygiene

Every year, pests cause controls throughout the enormous economic loss in the supply chain. pharmaceutical industry. Contamination Technology, like of pharmaceutical raw materials, Rentokil Initial’s medicines and medical devices not myRentokil online pest only destroys the affected goods and causes production losses, but also management system, results in a devastating loss supports earlier and more of customer trust.

ability to review supply chains from end to end, across multiple locations (sometimes even countries), Rentokil’s technology helps pharmaceutical distributors maintain hygiene standards

proactive risk management

and helps to deal with identified hazards in a quicker and more

other factors. These figures not only correlate directly with non-conformances reported by the major auditing standards bodies like BRC and AIB, but also show clearly what businesses should be focusing on to meet global compliance standards.

Big data insight For this new data to be truly valuable to an organisation, clear reporting and analysis are needed to ensure corrective actions are in place and support a proactive approach to health and safety management.

effective way, reducing the enormous

MyRentokil provides customers with:

commercial impact of unchecked

• trend reporting

risks. Online pest management

• recommendations

systems enable 24/7 monitoring and

• interactive maps

record keeping, ensuring corrective

• analytic tools which support food

interventions are made before infestations take hold.

safety audits Data recorded in myRentokil links pest activity to location and recommendations

Learning from other industries

from all this data creates real insights into

200 000 observations and

hygiene issues and their causes, and

recommendations made across

can be used to proactively ensure that

20 000 customers within food

the hygiene-related health and safety

supply chains across 27 countries.

standards required in a pharmaceutical

Global figures show that nearly a

processing facility are enforced daily. •

quarter of sites involved in a food reported some sort of pest activity.

| JANUARY 2018 | P C Review

globally. The unique perspective generated

In 2015, Rentokil Initial analysed

supply chain, at any point in time,

40

that extend across thousands of businesses

Rentokil Initial – www.rentokil-initial.co.za


SOUTH AFRICAN

January 2018 | Volume 44 | Number 1

www.pharmacos.co.za

Rotolabel acquires two new companies

South Africa records an increase in plastics recycling

Sorbet Man bags a Gold Pack award


NEWS

Bigger, better and improved is on motivations behind the recent purchase of two

Novus Holdings acquires ITB Manufacturing

have been taking flight in the packaging

new companies by one JSE listed entity. Turn to page

IN JUNE, THE Competition Commission South

industry, in the labelling sector particularly.

44 for the full story on Rotolabel with proudly South

Africa approved the proposed merger between the

A few themes dominating the recent deals

African roots.

two companies which has now come into effect.

ANOTHER YEAR IS upon us; I hope everyone is

other entities during tough economic times but this can

rejuvenated and ready to take on 2018.

be the best time to make investments. The spotlight

As is evident in this edition, acquisitions

are the diversification of these companies’ offerings, complementing existing

Novus Holdings operates in the commercial print and Enjoy the read

manufacturing industries while ITB Manufacturing

services and organic growth.

manufactures and supplies flexible plastic

Acquisitions are after all a key part of corporate development. Many companies are reluctant to pursue

packaging solutions. Assistant Editor

The acquisition forms part of Novus Holdings’

Aarifah.Nosarka@newmediapub.co.za

Solving stickiness issues on wet wipes UNTIL NOW, ADHESIVES on wet wipe

The company created a step

business strategy to diversify into related and new

Setting the stage for new trends

packs would often fail, leaving the

change with its high solvent resistance

remaining wipes in the pack to dry out.

adhesives, MR980R and UVR155, from

As a result, consumers would lose the

the Select Solutions portfolio. These

BRAND ENHANCEMENT SPECIALIST, API

value of their purchase.

adhesives address the main problem

launched the second edition of its Trends Folio at

with wet wipe closures, which is the

Luxe Pack Monaco in October 2017. This was to

household wipes can’t supply the

vulnerability of the adhesive closure to

underline its status as a provider of highly visual

technical resistance to the solvents

the solvents in wet wipes.

packaging solutions that empower brands. An

‘When an adhesive selected for

(e.g. limonene) used in the wipes,

MR980R provides excellent

evolution of 2016’s acclaimed first edition, the new

the pack cannot be resealed for

functionality on glossy PET packaging.

version of the API Trends Folio outlined the latest

the lifetime of the packaging. This

It is designed to withstand the

trends in luxury and premium packaging – and

means customers cannot properly

chemicals used in household wet

how the intelligent use of foils, laminates and

use the full pack of wipes, leading to

wipes and provides a high strength

holographics can complement them.

disappointment with the purchase and

of adhesion on flexible packaging.

perhaps encouraging them to change

UVR155 is the preferred choice for

drivers identified by API’s global development

to other brands in the future,’ says

matte packaging, often used in baby,

network throughout the year, using the company’s

Jenny Wassenaar, director of Select

facial and toilet wipes. Both adhesives

expertise in technology, categories and brands.

Solutions at Avery Dennison Europe.

have been developed specifically for

It is a key part of how API acts as a creative

challenging wipe applications. They

partner to every brand with which it works. The

offer high to medium initial tack and a

company provides brands with the latest trends’

smooth peel.

information to further their strategic development.

Consumers who buy wet wipes are

The annual API Trends Folio contains key

Updated for 2018 and 2019, the second edition

mainly focused on

features a high-shine silver cover. It retains the

the easy open and

format of its predecessor to present API’s four key

close convenience.

packaging trends. Among these are Neon Storm,

The priority for

which takes inspiration from natural phenomena

manufacturers and brand

such as sunbursts and comet flashes. Diamond

owners is finding cost

Luxe comprises dark lustres and glitters creating

efficient alternatives to

a sense of night time gothic, which powerfully

rigid plastic lids and other

conveys high end luxury.

re-closure solutions.

‘The feedback we had on the first edition was spectacular. With this updated version we are building on that success,’ explains David Peters,

Household wipes are now increasingly used in many different home and personal care applications

42

| JANUARY 2018 | Packaging Review

creative development manager at API. He says the company not only captured the latest trends, but also indicated how trends have evolved.


NEWS

Cosmetics and home care clean up at packaging awards

markets to boost profitability and increase cash flow through sourcing new revenue streams for the group. ‘Acquiring ITB Manufacturing will allow Novus Holdings to access revenue streams outside of the print media sector, which to date has been the source of the majority of our income. This investment in the packaging industry further entrenches us in the broader industrial and manufacturing sectors and is complementary to our existing operations,’ says Keith Vroon, Novus Holdings Group CEO. The group, in conjunction with ITB Manufacturing plans to expand on the current ITB offering and gain organic growth in the flexible plastic packaging and wrap around label sectors. ‘We are delighted to join forces with the group of companies. We look forward to the opportunities of offering an expanded range of packaging solutions with an improved geographical footprint and an enhanced range of products and services from synergies with the technical and production capabilities of Novus Holdings,’ says Tim Stewart, MD Keith Vroo

n

of ITB Manufacturing.

THE HEALTH, BEAUTY and Household category

Shower shaped aerosol can. The judges’ remarks

gold medal winner at this year’s IPSA Gold Pack

were that the shaped can presents a contemporary

Awards ceremony was RPC Astrapak Consupaq

and fresh appeal to support brand promise.

and the Clicks Group for the Sorbet Man 3-in-1

There were four joint bronze winners. RPC

shower gel.

Astrapak Consupaq garnered two of the joint

The tube packs for the range combine foiling,

bronze medals. The one was with brand owner

screen printing and a clear window enabling

Annique for the Rooibos Milk & Honey hand cream

product visibility. This entry demonstrated clean

tube and the other with Johnson & Johnson for the

design and simple lines, which establishes brand

Baby Jelly range.

identity and product differentiation.

Two additional bronze medal recipients were

RPC Astrapak sales and marketing executive,

converter, New Era Packaging with brand owner

Greg Till says the companies are incredibly proud

Amka Products for the Chemico range of cleaning

of the achievement. ‘Congratulations to all who

products and Nampak Divfood with brand owner,

were involved with this project and also to our

Unilever South Africa for the Axe aerosol deodorant

other medal winners and finalists.’

and antiperspirant.

The silver medal was awarded to Nampak

The ceremony was held on 22 November at the

Divfood and Amka Products for the Shower to

Inanda Club in Sandton.

Uniprint continues to boost its digital capacity THE GROWING SECTOR of

After the installation of its first

campaign. This success led to

flagship HP Indigo 20000 to be

digital printing allows print

HP Indigo press, the company

a similar project the following

installed later this month.

suppliers to improve the

purchased an Indigo 6600

year for central, east and

services they offer. It has

press in 2013. This technology

southern African markets with

saving through the wider width

opened up new opportunities,

was installed to produce the

over 600 names printed onto

and larger circumference of

increased sales growth and

Coke Connect labels. It was

300 million labels.

the HP Indigo 20000. We will

enabled printers to provide

the first high volume variable

personalised solutions that

data labels project as 100

digital offering further by

short run work to a “just in

meet customers’ needs.

million labels were produced

upgrading its HP 6600 to the HP

time basis” on the press. The

during the first year. This

6800. Two additional finishing

press will be supported by the

digital labelling early on,

contributed to a significant

lines are also in the process

battery of three finishing lines,’

purchasing its first digital press

sales growth for the soft drinks

of being installed while the

says Grant Hubbard, MD of

more than four years ago.

brand during its summer

company is expecting its

Uniprint Labels.

Uniprint Labels adopted

Uniprint is now taking its

‘We can now offer cost

be able to move mid and

Packaging Review | JANUARY 2018 |

43


LABELLING

The quest to become a one stop shop The labels division of Bidvest Data Print and Packaging, Rotolabel, recently acquired two new companies, S&N Labels and Bartrans. The acquisition was finalised in September 2017. PACKAGING REVIEW speaks to Wicus Maritz, chief executive at Rotolabel, about the motivations behind the purchase. By Aarifah Nosarka

S

&N Labels is a specialist in blank and barcode labels. The acquisition further expands the division’s

product offerings.

Tim and Simon Grisdale, operations executive and managing executive at Rotolabel S&N Labels with Luke Dunstan, GM of Bartrans

Colin Adendorff, CEO at Bidvest Data Print and Packaging says the company

price-marking tools, and

identified a management team at S&N

turnkey projects regarding label

Labels that could add extra value to its

application equipment.

label offering. ‘This is a great business that brings a

Bartrans supplies handheld barcode scanners, mobile

culture of excellent service and great

computers, barcode label printers

customer relationships. It adds a range

and intrinsically safe barcode and

of products we were not strong in. The

mobility solutions. Its products are

acquisition adds great value to the

specifically designed for automatic

organisation as a whole,’ he explains.

identification applications such as

A major benefit, according to Maritz,

Rotolabel’s added technical functions. The target date for complete integration is the end of March.

electronic proof of delivery and direct

is the expansion of Rotolabel’s product

store delivery, field service, inventory

offering. ‘We are able to offer customers

tracking and asset management.

a “one-stop shop” to meet their specific

Bartrans will however continue to operate as a stand-alone business with

Bartrans’ service and repair

requirements regarding labels and

centre is fully equipped

associated services. Having the financial

to carry out repairs and

backing of Bidvest will allow Bartrans to

maintenance and provide

explore various projects in the supply of

support for all Zebra,

scanners and barcoding solutions in the

Honeywell, Datamax O’Neil

warehousing and logistics space.’

and Intermec products.

HOW BARTRANS FITS INTO THE ACQUISITION

Rotolabel technical department

Rotolabel Cape Town is also a

DID YOU KNOW?

S&N Labels’ first machine, a reconditioned one colour flexo die cutter, was purchased in 1998.

‘By integrating the traditional into Bartrans, we are able to offer a

Rotolabel has always had a technical

comprehensive portfolio of technical

offering. This included agencies for

products and services which

supplying and servicing its Toshiba and

complements the labels side of the

Datamax printers. Its technical offering

business,’ Maritz adds.

extends to the supply of thermal transfer ribbons, selling and servicing of METO

TRANSFORMATIONS EXPECTED Rotolabel comprises two business

EARLY DAYS

units, one located in Johannesburg

ROTOLABEL WAS FOUNDED in 1982. It gained

the Rotolabel’s Spartan site situated

distinction in the supply of self-adhesive labels.

on the East Rand of Johannesburg. All

The company was acquired by the Bidvest

S&N Labels’ equipment, products and

Group in 2008. It currently represents the

people will be integrated with that of

labelling solutions division of Bidvest Data, Print

the Johannesburg division. The new

and Packaging.

business unit will be known as Rotolabel

and the other in Cape Town. Bartrans and S&N Labels will be integrated into

S&N Labels.

44

| JANUARY 2018 | Packaging Review

ACCOLADES AND ASPIRATIONS Mellow Colour “impression proof” qualified printer. According to Maritz, this is a world first for flexographic printing. The division installed sophisticated electronic verification hardware and software systems at its premises in both Cape Town and Johannesburg. The company has also transformed its Johannesburg business unit into a pharmaceutical centre of excellence, by equipping it with modern and dedicated machines to produce and inspect booklet and leaflet labels. This includes a sophisticated 100 percent inspection and verification system. Its Cape Town facility is FSC and ISO22000 certified whilst both are ISO9001 accredited. Rotolabel will continue to grow organically. Maritz says there will be a continued search for strategic acquisitions to increase the label division’s footprint, product and solutions offering. •

Rotolabel – www.rotolabel.co.za


LABELLING

Better protection

for trendsetting designs W Anti-counterfeiting measures are necessary due to the high value of cosmetics and the safety and health risks associated with counterfeit pharmaceuticals or cosmetics. PACKAGING REVIEW talks to Grant Hubbard, MD of Uniprint Labels about the brand protection methods the company offers with its new HP Indigo 20000 press.

hilst Uniprint expects pharma

A series of thin curved lines, known as

and cosmetics customers to

Guilloche, interlace to create circular

be particularly interested in the

designs. As the lines are thin and

speed and cost effectiveness of the new

adjacent, reproduction of the picture is

press, the areas of product authentication

made extremely difficult. By matching

and anti-counterfeiting are where the

patterns, using a barcode scanner,

biggest developments can be made.

authentication can be done by the

The HP Indigo 20000 will be installed

consumer or brand inspector. The result

later this month.

is a pattern that matches the design on

‘The quality of counterfeit products

the label.

is astounding. Sophisticated counter

Digital watermarks, comprising marks

measures are now required. The powerful

embedded in a label, hold information

software and printing parameters of digital

that can be magnified and verified

printing offer the best new methods of

by using a plastic lens. If reproduced,

reducing this problem,’ says Hubbard.

the print loses the watermark. A digital watermark can also be changed using

ANTI-COUNTERFEIT OFFERINGS

transparent ink.

Uniprint offers unique codes such as

Red UV invisible ink is used extensively

barcodes, QR Codes and 2D codes, which

in the market for a number of variable

create a response by using a reading

applications, including covert print

device linked to unique content such

and authentication. Owing to demand,

as an expiry date or a website. These

HP has also developed blue and

are used for both track and trace and

yellow invisible inks, which will be

authentication systems.

released soon.

Microtext is also popular. This small text

Closed-loop verification solutions

looks like a thin line or decoration. It is

combine two or more of the above

readable only with a magnifying glass.

core protection method options into a proprietary solution. This can be integrated into the label, packaging or a standalone label. Authenticity can be verified in the trade using handheld devices or cell phone applications. •

The HP Indigo 20000

Uniprint – www.uniprint.co.za

always changing,

Cutting-edge technology and innovative systems combine to deliver a complete offering

52036/UNIPRINT

A Tiso Blackstar Group Brand.

52036_UNIPRINT_Generic_AD.indd 1

46

| JANUARY 2018 | Packaging Review

dedicated to brilliance

Leading the way in comprehensive print solutions, exceptional products and unmatched customer service in the commercial printing industry including: Labels, Packaging, Forms, Elections & Ballots. As one of South Africa’s top accredited printing companies and level 2 BBBEE, our vast experience in printing and advanced systems and procedures, Uniprint operates like a well-oiled machine. Crafted and developed over decades, these finely tuned systems are at the core of our business, guaranteeing the superior level of performance, delivery and customer satisfaction that have become synonymous with our company. Physical Address: 59 Intersite Ave, Umgeni Business Park, Durban, 4001

Tel: 031 560 2300 Email: sales@uniprint.co.za Email: forms@uniprint.co.za Email: labels@uniprint.co.za Email: packaging@uniprint.co.za

2017/12/18 2:42 PM


INDUSTRY TALK

South Africans

industry depends on creating more demand for recycled materials in order

PRIOROTISE RECYCLING

to prevent bottle-necks and stock that does not move off their factory floors,’ he highlights.

DEVELOPING EXPORT MARKETS Whilst weak domestic currency favours the exportation of plastics, only five percent of South Africa’s plastic

recyclate was exported. The South The latest plastics recycling figures released African Plastics Recycling Organisation by Plastics|SA reveal that South Africans (SAPRO) is currently investigating possible cooperation with virgin raw are recycling more plastics than ever material traders who have a footprint before. However, more end markets must in other African countries and be developed to ensure take off for elsewhere in the world. DID recycled materials. YOU KNOW?

A

nton Hanekom, executive director

He says plastics

of Plastics|SA says the results of its

manufacturing and recycling

annual survey into plastics recycling

industries in South Africa and

for the period ending December 2016 reveal

around the world have been taking

there is a growing awareness of recycling

strain over the past two years.

and public pressure to recycle. This has

Recycling one plastic bottle saves enough energy to power a 60W light bulb for six hours.

‘Toward the end of 2016, South

THE WAY FORWARD

South Africa currently makes use of mechanical recycling considering no other commercial facilities exist for alternative plastics recycling.

‘We cannot afford to rest on our laurels or ease up on our recycling

resulted in more post consumer and post

Africa had 204 active recyclers, which

efforts. Not only are brand owners

industrial plastics made available for reuse.

mechanically reprocessed plastics

and international organisations under

materials such as plastic packaging.

increasing pressure to meet their

This provided formal, permanent

sustainability targets, but plastics

employment to 6 140 staff and

recycling also forms an integral part of

supported the informal employment of

the circular economy,’ says Hanekom. •

Toward the end of 2016, South Africa had 204 active recyclers, which mechanically reprocessed plastics materials such as plastic packaging

51 500 waste pickers and collectors. For the first time in many years, recyclers had an oversupply of recyclate in 2016. It is clear that the survival of the

Plastics|SA – www.plasticsinfo.co.za

‘Last year, 1.144 million tonnes of recyclable plastic entered the waste stream, of which 41.8 percent was recycled in South Africa based on input tonnages. This is a year-on-year increase of 5.9 percent,’ he explains. During this period, a growing number of organisations and consumer groups became actively involved in upstream collection efforts. This resulted in a positive impact on the number of plastics that were collected and recycled. Recycled tonnages grew by 35 percent since 2011. ‘The increase in recycling that was recorded was not as a result of increased plastic products that entered the market. In fact, 1.518 million tonnes of virgin polymer were converted into products in South Africa during this period – a mere 1.9 percent increase compared to 2015,’ Hanekom adds.

Packaging Review | JANUARY 2018 |

47


ASSOCIATION NEWS//

A memorable year-end for Coschem

T

he Society of Cosmetic Chemists (Coschem) hosted its Johannesburg year-end luncheon on 16 November at Casalinga Restaurant in Muldersdrift, Gauteng. The event offered

guests an unforgettable dining experience and the opportunity to network with old and new faces from the personal care industry.

WHAT’S ON AT COSCHEM IN 2018? FEBRUARY

JULY

5: Dip Cos Science Prize Giving Dinner

Chocolate & Wine Pairing

6: Dip Cos Science Induction Evening

Evening (date TBA)

8: AGM and Council Meeting 15: Soap Refresher MARCH

COSCHEM’S JHB YEAREND IN PICTURES

48

| JANUARY 2018 | P C Review

AUGUST 15: Ladies Day, Jhb 22: Sun Care Trends and Regulations

Lecture Evening (date TBA) 14: Skin Care Trends Seminar

SEPTEMBER

MAY

18 to 21: IFSCC Conference, Germany

5 to 6: Annual Conference and Gala Dinner 9: Supplier Afternoon 22: Golf Day

OCTOBER 18: Hair Care Seminar

JUNE Men’s Day (date TBA)

NOVEMBER

27: Fragrance Seminar

Year End Luncheon (date TBA)


ASSOCIATION NEWS//

Promoting a bright future for fragrances and flavours

The countdown has started to the 16th annual South African Association of the Flavour & Fragrance Industry (SAAFFI) seminar, scheduled for 6 March at the Bytes Conference Centre in Midrand, Gauteng.

E

ach year, the fragrances and flavours industry in southern Africa, including those allied to it, such as suppliers of ingredients, equipment and

services, anticipate the announcement of the seminar details. The theme for the 2018 seminar is ‘Motion of no confidence – promoting a bright African future for the flavour and fragrances industry’. The programme will examine many of the synergies and positive factors that make

DID YOU KNOW?

Out-of-town delegates are encouraged to use the Gautrain transport system to get to the seminar venue. This will alleviate any concerns they may have regarding peak hour traffic.

the future of the industry in Africa an exciting one. The full-day programme features an impressive line-up of speakers, a hands-on workshop,

‘Back to the Future’

an inspiring motivational presentation and a

investigated the

networking cocktail event. Not-to-be-missed

trend of reverting

presentations include:

to outdated

• the story behind exotic raw materials harvested in

technical

the wilds of northern Namibia • how the industry can help alleviate the water

and business practices

crisis currently plaguing South Africa, and Cape

as a means of

Town in particular

making progress;

• an honest assessment of ‘how to do business in Africa’ • the latest fragrances and flavours trends.

2016 saw the seminar addressing important emergent trends within Africa, centred on the theme

Networking and information sharing

‘One Africa: demonstrating the

For the last 15 years, the SAAFFI seminar has

tastes and aromas of our continent’. The

attracted around 200 key personnel from the

2017 seminar, themed ‘Fast Forward to

flavours and fragrances industry; FMCG companies,

Slow’, showed how pausing one’s frenetic

that use flavours and fragrances in their products;

lifestyle offers personal benefits, which can

as well as academics, consultants, regulators, raw

be translated into an advantage at work.

materials suppliers and anyone interested in the fascinating world of fragrances and flavours. The day offers a valuable learning and

‘This industry event offers so much for so many,’ says Sharon Bolel, assistant executive director of SAAFFI. ‘Those who

networking opportunity to people in management,

attend are sure to take away added skills,

sales, marketing, technical, procurement, R&D,

useful information and a solid dose of

applications, operations and even tertiary

career-oriented motivation. An additional

level students.

attraction is the jam-packed goody bag

Addressing relevant topics of newsworthy interest and confronting thorny business issues have always been the guiding principles of the organising

which each delegate takes home at the end of the day.’ Visit www.saaffi.co.za/events for more

committee. Looking back at the successes of

information and to book your seat for

previous seminars, in 2015 the seminar themed

the event. •

The programme will examine many of the synergies and positive factors that make the future of the industry in Africa an exciting one

P C Review | JANUARY 2018 |

49


Tea time

TO ADVERTISE IN Anita Raath Sales executive

+27 (0)82 976 6541

Carla Melless Sales executive

+27 (0)83 260 6060

Candida Giambo-Kruger Sales executive

ADVERTISERS' INDEX

+27 (0)71 438 1918

Happy New Year Word Search Find and circle all of the words that are hidden in the grid. The remaining letters spell the name of a popular location for celebrating New Year’s Eve.

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E T H I R T Y F I R S T H C T R R D

CECOSA............................................ 7........ www.cecosa.co.za

Moco Packaging...........................OBC........ www.mocopack.co.za

CIM Chemicals................................ 34........ www.cim.co.za

Rotolabel........................................ 45........ www.rotolabel.co.za

CJP Chemicals................................ 28........ www.cjpchemicals.co.za

Savannah Fine Chemicals............... 23........ sfc-info@savannah.co.za

Crest Chemicals...............................31........ www.crestchemicals.co.za

Sensient....................................... OFC........ www.sensient-cosmetics.com

Evonik............................................. 29........ www.evonik.com

Siyakha Imperial Printing................. 43........ www.labelprint.co.za

IMCD SA......................................... 27........ www.ashland.com

Uniprint........................................... 46........ www.uniprint.co.za

Materia Medica............................... 30........ www.materiamedica.co.za

Verder Pumps.................................IFC........ www.verder.co.za

Merck..............................................19........ www.merck.co.za

50

| JANUARY 2018 | P C Review

Y T R A P S K R O W E R I F S T Y S


Online

INDUSTRY WEB REVIEW ESSENTIAL SPECIALISED PRODUCTS

COSCHEM

Supplier of cosmetic and personal care ingredients.

Visitors to the Society of

Ingredients include; Bioferments, Botanical Extracts, Delivery

Cosmetic Chemists’ website will

Systems, Enzymes, Functional Actives, Silicones, Emollients,

find information on membership,

Emulsifiers, Meadowfoam Seed Oil & Derivatives, Abyssinian and

educational programmes

other Oils, Shea and other Butters, Aliphatic Hydrocarbons, Lanolin

(specific details pertaining to the

& Derivatives

Cosmetic Science Diploma), as well as the society’s objectives

Tel: 010 595 9690 Email: info@esp-sa.co.za www.esp-sa.co.za

of promoting professionalism and higher technical skills in the cosmetics and toiletries industries.

www.coschem.co.za

M&L LABORATORY M&L Laboratory Services (Pty) Ltd, provides clients with an extensive array of analytical capabilities. M&L renders testing services to the Food & Beverage, Mining, Environmental, Water & Pharmaceutical sectors. M&L is an ISO 17025 accredited facility, licenced by the Medicine Control Council (MCC) & endorsed by the

Glass distributors & importers of specialist glass bottles and closures. We are official distributors for Consol Glass. Dalgen is your one stop packaging shop, specialising in pharmaceutical &

World Health Organisation (WHO). Our schedule of

cosmetic containers. We are able to service all areas in Africa.

accreditation can be viewed via www.sanas.co.za

Email: keshav.beachen@za.bureauveritas.com

Tel +27 (0)31 569 4288 Fax +27 (0)31 569 4294 Email sales@dalgen.co.za or purchasing@dalgen.co.za www.dalgen.co.za

FORMPAK

NOVOPAK

For over 40 years Formpak has supplied specialised processing,

Novopak is a plastic packaging

packaging and printing machinery to the pharmaceutical,

company that specializes in

cosmetic, plastic, glass, chemical, food and dairy industries.

manufacturing a complete range

Mobile: +27 (0)76 114 9420 Office: +27 (0)11 661 7900

Tel +27 (0)11 828 8870/1/2 Fax +27 (0)11 828 8880 Email haase@formpak.com or service@formpak.com www.formpak.com

of cosmetic and pharmaceutical tubes, including printing, hot foiling and various caps. We also manufacture Bottles and Jars.

Tel +27 (0)11 865 5632 Email novopak@absamail.co.za www.novopak.co.za

LOOK GOOD FEEL BETTER

QUANTUM COLOURS SA

Look Good Feel Better, a global cosmetic industry programme

Your No. 1 industry leader

offers support to cancer patients focusing on emotional and social

for the most comprehensive

needs and well being.

ranges of both synthetic and

At 2 hour interactive workshops held in oncology units across

natural colours – used in food,

SA, cosmetics are used as tools

pharmaceutical, cosmetic and

to address visible side effects of

industrial applications.

treatment to assist patients to

Tablet coatings – manufactured,

restore self-esteem and face the

supplied and marketed globally

world with confidence.

under our trade name PHARMASPEC™ - FC

www.lgfb.co.za

www.quantumcolours.co.za


Moco Packaging is well established as one of the largest stockists of specialised cosmetic and pharmaceutical packaging in South Africa. The extensive range of high-quality plastic and glass containers and accessories is obtained from local and international sources. Our own moulds enable us to satisfy almost all packaging requirements at excellent prices. Printing and frosting facilities are available. Keeping up to date with modern technology ensures that we procure a variety of new packaging items and components.

Tel: (011) 624-3493/4 | Fax: (011) 618-3622 Email: sales@mocopack.co.za | www.mocopack.co.za 18 Auret Street Jeppestown 2094 | P.O. Box 15773 Doornfontein 2028

Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review Jan 2018  

Our first edition for 2018 explores the trends and hot topics that will drive cosmetics and pharmaceutical product development this year. Th...

Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review Jan 2018  

Our first edition for 2018 explores the trends and hot topics that will drive cosmetics and pharmaceutical product development this year. Th...