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November/December 2017 | Volume 44 | Number 11

Manufacturing Laboratories (Pty) Ltd

Introducing the new

laboratory instrument room and advanced micro lab

Innovative ingredients to meet your product development needs Keeping the evocative art of fragrances alive

Meet the 2017 New Product Competition winners


November/December 2017 | Volume 44 | Number 11

w w za


Aspen achieves tax transparency

Messe München acquires Lab Africa

Meet Millchem’s new national sales manager


Are prebiotics and probiotics worth the hype?


What’s new in South Africa


Highlights from the Puregas Partnership Awards

The Aerosol & Cosmetics Works 25th anniversary


Sepawa Congress launches from Evonik

The real hype around prebiotics and probiotics

Armor Pharma’s lactose excipients now available in SA

Sunflower surfactant for hand dishwashing liquid

Introducing the cosmetics drone


The 2017 winners announced

Hair care steals the show



Disrupting maceration with Quidex 3.2 powder

Bell’s colourful daily diet for cosmetics

Fragrances of the World with Michael Edwards


Category insight from Euromonitor International


Get in on the fizz with Brenntag South Africa

ISO IDMP standards update

Omega-3 launched in powder format

New omega-3 powder for


dietary supplements

IEW41 V E R g in g a k c a P November/Dec

| Volum ember 2017

e 43 | Number


RICAN SOUTH AF www.pharma


44 Blister Packaging

unit dose packaging


Quality systems from O.M.A.R

46 Packaging

Raw Materials

Solutions to aid form and functionality


to create Technolog yca vit y for the perfect s blister pack

The latest news from Coschem and the AMA

ates Omron innov for modern ring manufactu




From the editor

Welcoming ‘home’

the father of fragrance


t’s not often that I get to meet and engage

(page 15) provides a roundup of some of

with the global icons who steer the

the newest advances in the cosmetics and

fragrance industry’s ship. In August, I was

pharmaceutical industries. John Knowlton’s

fortunate to meet Michael Edwards, the

controversial take on the prebiotic and


Editor: Abby Vorster +27 (0)11 877 6038 Assistant Editor: Aarifah Nosarka +27 (0)11 877 6209 Layout & Design: Kirsty Thomas Contributors: John Knowlton, Shani Vermeulen ADVERTISING Sales Executive: Carla Melless +27 (0)83 260 6060 Sales Executive: Anita Raath +27 (0)82 976 6541

world’s leading authority on fragrance and

probiotic trend in treatment skin care is a

the creator of The Fragrance Wheel. He was

must read while the launch of cosmetics

visiting South Africa on holiday and kindly

drone technology promises to transform how

Sales Executive: Candida Giambo-Kruger +27 (0)71 438 1918

agreed to present Fragrances of the World

actives are delivered to targeted sites.


We hosted the P C Review/Symrise 2017

to Symrise’s customers and its scent and care team. Edwards is as fascinating as he

New Product Competition awards in October.

appears in international media; his industry

If you couldn’t join us for the event or missed

knowledge is unmatched as is his passion

the newsletter announcing the winners,

for the art of perfumery. Highlights from his

you can catch up on all the highlights on

captivating presentation and our one-on-

page 26.

one discussion are detailed in the fragrances

This month’s pharmaceutical focus on

Germany/Austria/Switzerland: Eisenacher Medien Erhardt Eisenacher +49 228 249 9860 Italy: Ngcombroker Giacomo Rotunno +39 370 101 4694 Taiwan: Ringier Trade Media Sydney Lai +886 4 2329 7318

and essential oils feature in this edition of

page 36 is centred on over the counter (OTC)



products. For manufacturers looking to ‘get

We also share an interesting article on a

in on the fizz’ with effervescent formulations,

Circulation Manager: Felicity Garbers +27 (0)21 701 1566

disruptive powder innovation that cuts costs

Effer-Soda, featured in this edition, offers a


and saves time in fine fragrance maceration,

reliable solution to meet consumers’ rising

General Manager: Dev Naidoo

along with the rise of the superfood trend in

demand for easy-to-use OTC product formats.

the fragrance ingredients segment. Turn to

We also cover the launch of a new omega-3

Publishing Manager: Natalie Da Silva +27 (0)11 877 6281

page 28 for more.

powder for the health supplements market.

Cosmetic Review.

Our annual ingredient and formulation innovation feature

Sustainability continues to be a central topic in the packaging industry. Aarifah Nosarka highlights this in PACKAGING REVIEW, where she looks at safe and sustainable options for blister packaging and how sustainability continues to shape how raw materials are developed. With the silly season upon us, I’d like to thank the industry, our readers and advertisers for their continued support in 2017. Have a good break during the festive season, stay safe and enjoy the read!

Michael Edwards

See you in 2018!


Prof N T (Raj) Naidoo

CEO of the National Association of Pharmaceutical Manufacturers

Vivian Frittelli


New Media Publishing, Ground floor, Media Park, 69 Kingsway Avenue, Auckland Park, 2092 Tel: +27 (0)11 877 6111, Fax: +27 (0)11 713 9024 POSTAL ADDRESS PO Box 784698, Sandton, Johannesburg, 2146 Published on behalf of Media24 by New Media Publishing (PTY) Ltd. MANAGING DIRECTOR Aileen Lamb CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER Bridget McCarney EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR John Psillos NON-EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR Irna van Zyl

New Media House, 19 Bree Street, Cape Town 8001 Tel: +27 (0)21 417 1111, Fax: +27 (0)21 417 1112 Email: PO Box 440, Green Point, Cape Town 8051

Professor Emeritus, Faculty of Health Sciences, Nelson Mandela Metropolitan University

Prof Dr Aubrey Parsons

CTFA - The Cosmetic, Toiletry & Frangrance Association of South Africa NAPM - The National Association of Pharmaceutical Manufacturers


John Knowlton

Past-President, Society of Cosmetic Chemists SA

P C Review is the official journal of:

Art Director: David Kyslinger


Consultant, Cosmetic Solutions


Production Controller: Rae Morrison

COSCHEM - The Society of Cosmetic Chemists of South Africa HPA - The Health Products Association of Southern Africa AMA - The Aerosol Manufacturers’ Association of South Africa


Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review is published by New Media Publishing 11 times a year and circulates to manufacturers, packers and distributors of pharmaceuticals, health products, cosmetics, detergents, soaps, toiletries and allied products. The journal is an up-to-date source of reference for company directors, factory and production managers, marketing executives, engineers, import agents, buyers and research personnel. While precautions have been taken to ensure the accuracy of its contents and information given to readers, neither the editor, publisher, or its agents can accept responsibility for damages or injury which may arise therefrom. All rights reserved. © Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, photocopying, electronic, mechanical or otherwise without the prior written permission of the copyright owners. Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review is printed and bound by CTP Printers - Cape Town. Copyright: all rights reserved. ISSN 0257-8719

GRANREPAIR POWERBOND GRANREPAIR POWERBOND its an innovative next generation bond technology. · Prevents damage and repairs hair integrity from chemical salon processes · Protects the bonds from initial breakage as well as repairs broken bonds · Noticeably softens and smooths hair texture · Adds shine and luster to hair appearance · Ease of combing ability (both for wet and dry) · Improved hair color intensity


Tax transparency first for Aspen IN A FIRST of its kind implementation, Aspen Pharmacare (Aspen) – the largest

pharmaceutical company to complete all data reporting and collection within a few

pharmaceutical company listed on the JSE – has selected the Oracle Tax Reporting

weeks compared to the more than eight months it takes with a manual process.

Cloud solution to report tax timely and accurately. This move is to ensure its compliance

This swift implementation helped Aspen avoid significant tax penalties and full time

with the Base Erosion and Profit Shifting (BEPS) country by country reporting.

equivalent costs, which would arise from late submissions and inaccurate reporting. It

Implemented in collaboration with Accenture, the Oracle

also works seamlessly with its existing systems.

Tax Reporting Cloud solution will deliver bespoke functionality

‘Ensuring complete transparency between the tax and finance functions to enable

tailored to Aspen’s specific requirements, including effective

accurate reporting of the company’s performance to regulators and other stakeholders

governance, cost-savings and reporting capabilities for more

is a key priority for us,’ says Brenda Engelbrecht, group tax executive at Aspen. ‘The

than 190 users.

Oracle Tax Reporting Cloud solution offered a seamless approach to achieve these

In line with BEPS’ reporting requirements, the newly implemented integrated cloud solution also allowed the

objectives besides also helping reduce costs with automation. We are confident about this implementation and are keen on exploring all its benefits.’ Derek Bose, Oracle’s senior applications director for southern Africa: ‘The Oracle

Together with Accenture, Derek Bose says Oracle has now delivered an innovative cloud solution that allows Aspen to develop a highly automated and transparent tax function



Tax Reporting Cloud is designed to connect the processes, data and metadata that tax and finance functions share, while providing customisable functionalities that can be tailored to customer specifications.’



FOR THE SIXTH consecutive year, the Top Employers Institute has certified BASF South Africa as one of the Top Employers in the country. The company was also placed first in the

CHRISTOPHE BONGO IS the first ever brand ambassador of

chemicals sector.

Fino Cosmetics. According to the brand, he is the perfect fit as he is no stranger to the spotlight and understands the

BASF West Africa received its third certification

importance of being well-groomed.

as ‘Top Employer Nigeria’ for its outstanding

Bongo was born in the Congo and fell in love with South

employee offerings within the African category.

Africa during his first visit around 24 years ago. His career

The annual international research undertaken

path spans a professional soccer player, Channel O

by Top Employers Institute globally certifies excellence in the conditions that employers create for their people. When companies develop great working conditions, employees are highly engaged and motivated to give their best. Central to the Top Employers’ programme is that participating companies must complete a

Billy Elliott, Top Employer country manager: South Africa, with Benoit Fricard, who received the 2018 Top Employer trophy during the gala dinner at Sandton Convention Centre on 12 October

presenter, SABC sports analyst and radio and TV presenter. He is also an experienced soccer coach and has worked with FIFA as an instructor and consultant. ‘The difference between Fino Man and other male grooming products is that Fino is created by Adrienne Cohen – a professional grooming artist. The brand was

stringent research process and meet the required

created out of a real need to solve specific shaving

high standard to achieve the certification.

problems. Cohen has worked on many different skins

To reinforce the validity of the process, all responses are independently audited. The

over the past 25 years,

outcome of the research has verified both BASF South Africa and BASF West Africa as

including mine, and she

having outstanding employee conditions and earned them a coveted spot amongst a

has a deep knowledge

select group of certified Top Employers.

of what is needed to fix

BASF South Africa’s MD, Benoit Fricard, says the company has a strong focus on developing its employees. ‘At BASF, we constantly strive to create a working environment

the skin,’ says Bongo. He loves that Fino is

where employees feel engaged and empowered to learn, develop and grow. Employee

an authentic product,

engagement is one of our priorities where we place every effort to ensure that

which offers men real

employees feel a sense of belonging, that they are committed to contributing to the

skin care solutions and

organisation’s success whilst also developing themselves professionally and personally.

is 100 percent proudly

We believe talent is in everyone and we develop employees throughout all levels to grow

South African. Fino Man

within the company.’

products are available

Head of HR for BASF Africa, Sharmila Govind says specific focus is placed on creating

at Dis-Chem and

a culture of learning and development. ‘When we support our employees to reach their

Clicks stores, selected

potential and aspirations it will help us to form the best team and achieve our common

pharmacies and salons.

goals. Being certified as a Top Employer once again reinforces that we are an industry leader when it comes to our employee offerings.’



Christophe Bongo



THE GLOBAL TRADE show organiser has bolstered its portfolio for the growing African market by taking over Lab Africa – the only laboratory and analytics trade fair in South Africa which is part of the analytica trade fair network. The first Lab Africa under the Messe München banner will take place in Johannesburg mid-2019. CEO Reinhard Pfeiffer comments: ‘Through the acquisition, we are offering our customers in southern Africa a strong trade fair platform for market entry and development. This will allow us to drive increased exhibitor and visitor promotion in the region for analytica, the international trade fair that takes place in Munich every two years.’ Lab Africa has existed since the ’90s and successfully positioned

Traditional Chinese medicine inspires new Givaudan partnership

GIVAUDAN HAS FORMED a strategic partnership with Draco Natural Products (Draco) to develop a new proprietary line of bioactive botanical

by Orbes Media in the South African market. At the 2017 show,

ingredients. These ingredients will form part of its Active Beauty business,

109 exhibitors presented their innovations to 1 698 visitors from

which is represented in South Africa by The Care Co.

12 countries. Michelle Coetzee from Orbes Media adds, ‘With its global sales

Givaudan and Draco will work together on the R&D of active botanical ingredients formulated using the principles of traditional Chinese medicine.

network, industry contacts and know-how, Messe München offers a

These unique ingredients will primarily be used for producing topical products

unique opportunity to expand Lab Africa within the analytica trade

to improve and enhance skin and hair health.

fair network as the leading trade fair for analysis, biotechnology and laboratory technology (ABL) for southern Africa.’ Presence in South Africa grants Messe München access to

This new partnership is in line with Givaudan’s 2020 strategic goals and growing its Active Beauty business. Maurizio Volpi, president of the fragrance division at Givaudan, says: ‘We are always looking for innovative solutions

the largest market for ABL within Africa. Health, nutrition and the

and Draco brings impressive expertise in effective naturally derived products.

environment are topics predominantly spurring the demand for

We will enhance these ingredients and make them ideal for our skin and hair

modern lab solutions and contributing to above average growth

care Active Beauty ingredients portfolio.’

in the industry. The ABL sector is expected to see worldwide growth

Draco is a world leader in the supply of exceptional quality botanical

between six and 11 percent in the coming years, according to the

extract ingredients for nutritional supplements, personal care products,

IBO 2017 Industry Forecast.

functional foods and OTC medicines. The company has developed a

‘Lab Africa with its focus on technology will be seamlessly integrated into the already existing conference structure,’ says Elaine Crewe, CEO of Messe München’s subsidiary in South Africa. ‘Lab Africa is a valuable addition to

proprietary extraction process, which promotes the delivery of distinctive, traceable and sustainable extracts. ‘We are very excited about this partnership,’ says Jerry Wu, president and CEO of Draco. ‘Givaudan is a top notch company with a long history

our South African trade fair portfolio alongside existing

of innovation and our combined expertise will allow us to bring natural

trade fairs bauma CONEXPO AFRICA, IFAT Africa, and

solutions for customers’ brands.’

food & drink technology Africa.’

Laurent Bourdeau, head of Givaudan’s Active Beauty business adds: ‘With this strategic partnership, we will introduce unique products

Elaine Crewe says Messe München is expanding the scope of the technology-oriented events in South Africa and can exploit valuable synergies with its acquisition of Lab Africa

designed using natural extracts, following the principles of traditional Chinese medicine and using knowledge of modern science. It is a very exciting moment for us as it opens a new world of possibilities.’




Estrella Majeed, Dr Majeed and Anju Majeed, a senior scientist from Sami Labs, at the group’s new continuous extraction facility inauguration in India

NEW NATIONAL SALES MANAGER FOR MILLCHEM GIULIO POZZOBON HAS joined Millchem as the national sales manager for its cosmetics and detergency division. In this new role, he will also oversee the company’s regional personal and home care sales teams in Durban and Cape Town. Before joining Millchem in September, Pozzobon worked for the global ingredient technology company, Fenchem, which provided him extensive multinational experience and a solid platform to grow his career in speciality chemicals. ‘It’s been my goal to join a leading speciality chemicals company like Millchem, working with its innovative international principals and to develop my skills in the cosmetics and personal care industry,’ he comments. ‘Millchem’s cosmetics and detergents principals include Ashland Vincience, Hallstar (including B&T and Biochemica range), Sozio, Summit Reheis, Akott, Kemin, Salvona, Stepan, Color Clay, Esperis and Impact Colors.’ Chris Damen, sales director of Millchem, is pleased with Pozzobon’s appointment to the team. ‘As a supplier of speciality ingredients to the cosmetics and detergency industries, Millchem brings innovation to its customers’ products. Using ingredients and technologies from our international principals, we can assist in improving product performance while providing technical advice to align our customers with current market trends,’ says Damen. Millchem offers a diverse portfolio of products, including surfactants for home and personal care, active ingredients for skin and hair care, antiperspirant actives, fragrances, colours and speciality clays among others. ‘We pride ourselves on the support and service we deliver to our customers, and aim to meet our customers’ requirements in the shortest possible time frame,’ adds Damen Giulio Pozzobon


Rising demand for curcumin extraction SABINSA’S PARENT COMPANY Sami Labs inaugurated a second continuous extraction plant on 5 October to meet the rising demand for Curcumin C3 Complex. This new facility will be exclusively used for curcumin extraction, increasing production of Curcumin C3 Complex to 25t from the previous capacity of six tonnes. The two continuous extraction units are spread across five acres in Dobaspet, Bangalore, India. Seeking to avoid the seemingly ubiquitous synthetic ingredients used in the cosmetics and food industries, health conscious consumers have increased their demand for natural herbal extracts globally. This preference for natural, accompanied by a robust body of research,

ACCORDING TO THE German Association for Sustainability, DQS CFS, the fragrances and flavours

has fuelled enormous growth in the curcumin

manufacturer meets the international requirements of its Global Conformance Programme. Symrise

extract market.

is therefore permitted to use the ‘green company’ logo during the next three years. Green companies are recognised by DQS as those that actively and demonstrably minimise

According to a new report by Frost & Sullivan, the global curcumin market is expected to

the negative effects of their economic activities on the environment. The audit focuses on the

reach more than US$100 million by 2023,

companies’ management systems, which are used to promote greater environmental friendliness

growing at a CAGR of 12.6 percent between

in individual business units and reduce potential environmental risks. At Symrise, the audit involved

2017 and 2023. While the demand for curcumin

the R&D unit as well as production and distribution of all the company’s ingredients.

in dietary supplements, pharmaceuticals and

For several years, Symrise has been focusing its business strategy on sustainability and has set

cosmetics has experienced continuous growth,

itself high environmental standards. ‘We are delighted that the independent auditors at DQS have

nutraceuticals make up more than 50 percent

once again recognised this commitment,’ sayd Hans Holger Gliewe,

of the curcumin demand share, both by

CSO of Symrise. The company is constantly pursuing environmental

volume and revenue, growing faster than the

protection and resource conservation along the entire value

other segments.

chain to reduce negative environmental impacts. Cost reduction

‘Because of turmeric’s traditional use in

and increasing efficiencies are closely linked to environmental

Ayurveda, India dominates world turmeric

management at the company.

production with 80 percent of it taking place

DQS first awarded the ‘green company’ label to Symrise in

here,’ says Dr Muhammed Majeed, founder

2013. DQS CFS now handles all certification services related

and chairman of the Sami-Sabinsa Group. ‘With

to sustainability and consumer safety within the international

our Curcumin C3 Complex the world leader in

DQS Group.

curcumin ingredients, expanding extraction capacity to ensure we can continue to meet

The ‘green company’ label awarded to Symrise by DQS



demand was the logical next step.’


Get lean with Boity

Corrective makeup from Vichy Dermablend, Vichy’s award-winning range of camouflage makeup with added SPF, expertly covers all complexion flaws including redness, dark circles, uneven complexion, vitiligo and acne. The range includes a fluid corrective foundation, corrective resurfacing active foundation and the SOS corrector stick. The products are available in various shades and sold exclusively in DisChem stores.

Celeb Boity Thulo, in conjunction with pharmaceutical company Human Limitless, has developed a new fat burner – Boity Toning Support. The product includes a unique blend of select ingredients in capsule form, designed to bring about a leaner silhouette. Key active

Nature’s antibiotic Three new colloidal silver products have been launched by NRF Health. NRF Colloidal Silver cream is a mild silver protein that soothes many skin ailments including dry damaged skin, sunburn and cuts or nicks. NRF Colloidal Silver liquid is taken orally or topically as a preventative

ingredients include Forskolin, isolated from Coleus Forskohlii roots, to stimulate the breakdown of stored fat at cellular

or supplementary product when one has a cold, flu, pneumonia or sore throat. NRF Colloidal Silver liquid-gel

level, while green coffee bean extract

contains xylitol, beneficial for healthy teeth. When used

and caffeine boost the metabolism. Boity

as a gargle, it helps preventing microbial infections.

Toning Support is sold online at www.

Beat the itch

NRF Colloidal Silver products are available from all major wholesalers.

sunburn and mild burns.

Precious oils for hair

It also works wonders for

The new Trevor Sorbie Salon Care

shingles. The cream has anti-

Collection is designed to optimise

fungal, anti-bacterial and

hair. The Precious Oils products are

anti-inflammatory properties

formulated with Argan and Inca

to ensure rapid healing.

Inchi oils. The regime consists of

Bettamed products contain

a luxurious shampoo, conditioner

carbohydrate-derived fulvic

and shine oil, which promise to

acid, which is a patented form

deeply moisturise and soften

of fulvic acid that has been

coarse hair. The formulations are

Bettamed Care Cream is formulated to address itching skin concerns, wet and dry eczema, rashes, athlete’s foot, insect bites, chickenpox,

clinically tested in human safety trials. Bettamed Care Cream is available at various retail outlets.

sulphate, sodium (chloride) and paraben-free. They are also kind to colour and can be used after Keratin smoothing

Visit for

treatments. Trevor Sorbie products are available

more information.

exclusively at Clicks.




ood f



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December Middle East Organic & Natural Expo Dubai

11 to 13 December Dubai International Convention & Exhibition Centre

January Cosme Tokyo

24 to 26 January Makuhari Messe, Japan, Tokyo

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International Salon and Spa Expo 27 to 29 January Long Beach, USA

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Professional Beauty London

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25 to 26 February London ExCeL, UK

Nedbank Seapoint


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8 February Coschem office, Randpark Ridge, Johannesburg


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TAX INVOICE REQUIRED Note: The above prices are applicable to South Africa only. International rates available on request.




Propak East Africa 27 February to 1 March Kenyatta International Conference Centre, Kenya


Safety always equals success

The annual Puregas Partnership Awards have become an institution among manufacturers, particularly those that share the same views as Puregas on safety and business excellence. By Abby Vorster


Accolades and a future focus Sticking with the theme of inspiring guests to go the extra mile, futurologist and scenario planner Clem Sunter treated guests to some insightful ‘future-gazing’. He looked at various ‘flags’ driving global and South African trends. These range from religious extremism and the rise of China to corruption in our country, infrastructure issues and the importance of creating a climate that supports entrepreneurial excellence – particularly

Puregas and which secure the best results in safety audits conducted by Puregas’ technical manager, Grant Gascoigne. He

Category C includes companies that

says the competition has become fierce

use cylinders only for the products they

over the past few years with customers

manufacture. Category B covers small

increasing buy in and their ongoing

and medium sized bulk customers while

safety improvements. Puregas’ MD, Philip Cloete highlighted the gas storage tank installation that is currently underway on the company’s premises

Category A is large bulk. In Category A, the winner was Unilever SA for the third consecutive year. Indigo Brands was named first runner-up in

in Alrode, Alberton. ‘Because Puregas

this category while Tiger Brands Consumer

is committed to service and ensuring currently installing a new 500m3 gas storage

ased on the theme ‘driving vision to

tank, which arrived on site last week and is

reality – inspiration to go the extra

due for completion at the end of November,’

mile’, the 2017 Puregas Partnership

he explained.

was placed second runner- up. Vitafoam redeemed its 2015 title as the winner of Category B. First runner-up went to Clarke Colours and second runnerup, Cibapac. Prime Product Manufacturing took

The tank installation forms part of

at The Venue Greenpark, which is located on

Puregas’ R20 million investment project to

the 20th floor of Johannesburg’s World Trade

increase its storage and supply capacity

Centre in Morningside.

for its propellant and foam blowing

The partnership programme has a long

This set the tone for the awards, which are divided into three categories.

continuous supply for our customers, we are

Awards took place on 27 September

in manufacturing.

home the winning prize in Category C for the second consecutive year. BNG Packaging and Technology was named first runner-up, with Wrapsa coming in as

customers. The project has also seen the

history. It was launched many years ago to

company expand its distribution fleet with

acknowledge customers who have formed

the purchase of several new vehicles for

successful business partnerships with

various products.

second runner- up. •

Puregas –



Tiger Brands Consumer

Clarke Colours

Prime Product

Unilever SA






25 years and a ‘can-do’ attitude

Reflecting on 25 successful years in business, The Aerosol & Cosmetics Works celebrated its 25th anniversary at De Grendel Restaurant and Wine Estate on 28 September.


Celebrating the stars The anniversary celebration was attended by Aerosol & Cosmetics Works’ staff, some of whom have been employed at the company since the very beginning. As a result, the event provided the perfect opportunity for Fillies and Woods to recognise those employees with longservice awards. ‘Our staff is a family unit within the business. They are the stars on the factory floor; the success of Aerosol & Cosmetics Works could never have been possible without them,’ comments Woods.

hile The Aerosol &

and his team. This includes Mark Woods,

Cosmetics Works was first

who joined The Aerosol & Cosmetics

invited its key suppliers to join in the

registered in 2001, when

Works as a partner in 2013.

celebrations at De Grendel Restaurant. Set

MD Terence Fillies took the

Since Woods came on board, the

The Aerosol & Cosmetics Works also

on a working farm with breathtaking views

plunge to start his own business, its history

company has doubled production

of Table Mountain, the restaurant serves

dates back to 1984.

numbers and received its ISO

up contemporary Capetonian cuisine

accreditation. These developments form

paired with De Grendel’s award-winning

transformed the business, which was

part of a five-year growth plan, which

wines. This provided the perfect setting

once a startup, into a key player in

includes the already achieved milestones

for a memorable event celebrating the

cosmetics manufacturing. With statistics

of securing an international listing to

company’s 25th anniversary. •

showing that only three percent of

export baby care products, launching a

all startup businesses in South Africa

semi-automated talcum powder factory

survive, celebrating 25 successful years

and installing automated filling and

in business is a major accolade for Fillies

labelling machinery to boost its capacity.

Over the past 25 years, Fillies has

The Aerosol & Cosmetics Works –





Securing the health of

supplement brands Hersol Manufacturing Laboratories (Hersol) is a leading contract manufacturer of nutritional supplements, pharmaceuticals and complementary medicines (CAMs). Unparalleled quality coupled with excellent service and on-time deliveries make the company difficult to beat.


ased in Jeppestown, Johannesburg,

The same is true for Hersol’s blister packing and

Hersol House is home to extensive facilities

liquid manufacturing departments, which run

for producing most dosage forms. These

day and night shifts to ensure growing demand

include single and double layer tablets;

is met.

sugar and film coated tablets and uncoated ones; effervescent tablets; capsules; powders; topical

Taking a future view

preparations such as creams, gels, ointments and

The growth of Hersol’s business has paved the

lotions as well as syrups and liquids.

way for plant and capacity expansion, which are

The company is continuing its mission to

part of its bid to obtain full GMP accreditation.

obtain full Good Manufacturing Practice (GMP)

‘We have developed a strategy to become the

accreditation from the South African Medicines

best contract manufacturer in terms of service

Control Council (MCC) which is a central focus of

delivery, quality and our ability to develop

Hersol’s MD, André Buhrlen.

products from concept to market in a short space

Looking back at how this GMP journey

of time.’

transpired, when Buhrlen joined the company

More than 3 000 m² of space within Hersol

in 2003, it had about 180 staff members and a

House has been converted into manufacturing

non-GMP facility. ‘We started training staff on GMP

areas in line with GMP requirements. Its staff

and general aspects of business principles. We

complement has grown to 420 and the company

also implemented an integrated software system to run the material requirement planning and financials,’ he explains. New offices were built, the packing department was relocated and segregated lines were established with numerous standard operating procedures developed over the years to comply with the GMP outline.

is experiencing a renewed demand from


new and existing customers.

After a substantial investment, Hersol celebrated a major milestone in 2014 in becoming the first pharmaceutical manufacturer in South Africa to produce power from in-house gas turbine generators.

In keeping with its competitive strategy, Hersol started doing

A dispensary cubicle at Hersol

‘We then upgraded the tabletting department to include a bigger coating area with epoxy floors and chromadek partitioning and ceilings,’ he adds. ‘By mid-2011, we had grown to 300 employees and turnover had increased to more than 30 percent year on year.’ These developments have also propelled an increase in Hersol’s technical and regulatory requirements. For example, film coating, which constituted about 20 percent of the company’s tablet volume in 2003, today constitutes 98 percent. ‘Thus, additional film coating equipment and clean rooms had to be implemented,’ Buhrlen explains.

Hersol’s tablet coating machine delivers fast, flexible and consistent coating performance



COMPANY FOCUS Dispensary entrance

We reviewed the regulations and took a strategic decision to get ahead of the game airlocks and clean room partitioning. This is in addition to the company’s second instrument room, which was added to the existing laboratory to do analytical development and validation, including stability studies. The company employs numerous pharmacists and pharmacists’ assistants to help in the running and development of the pharmaceutical manufacturing

analytical work on materials and finished

facility. They also contribute to the expertise offered

products three years ago. ‘Taking a future

for the manufacture of its products.

view saved us in the long run,’ explains

individual competencies in each of the critical

customers who have been scrambling

roles within a manufacturing environment for

to find a reputable manufacturer that

pharmaceuticals,’ says Buhrlen. ‘This took several

is compliant in terms of regulations and

years while our drive to obtain GMP certification and

requirements from the MCC – this strategy

comply with CAMs regulations saw Hersol doing all

serves us well for the foreseeable future.’

the right things years ago and it is paying off today.’

Hersol’s prime customers have grown

The dispensary staging area

‘We have put together a remarkable team with

Buhrlen, ‘it has also drawn in a lot of new

Controversial legislative amendments to the

with the business over the years. As a result,

Medicines and Related Substances Act in 2013 made

the company faced an era of high volume

provision for CAMs to be regulated by the MCC to

growth for which it was ill-equipped and

assure the safety and efficacy of these products. This

limited in terms of space. ‘This is why we have

caused an upset in an industry, which saw very little

embarked on a new strategy to specialise in both

legislation up until then.

medium and high volume manufacturing, while

‘We reviewed the regulations and took a strategic

still updating and improving our smaller volume

decision to get ahead of the game by implementing

areas to cater for our small volume business,’ he

certain MCC requirements long before this was

comments. ‘We have created more capacity and

required for CAMs,’ he comments. As a result, all

installed manufacturing clean rooms with HVAC

products produced by Hersol are manufactured

systems. Older production equipment and newly

in accordance with the prescribed legislation

acquired equipment have been moved into new

and standards.

focused areas to enhance our capabilities and


Hersol can also produce products under the

increase our competencies

auspices of Beth Din, thus assuring quality production

and capacity to service

of Kosher products, and it is accredited by the South

the industry.’

African National Halaal Agency to manufacture

Solid facilities and a strong team

Halaal products. The company has acquired a reputation for consistent good quality, price, service and delivery,

Hersol has acquired a large blender to cope with

Hersol’s new and larger

increased batch sizes.

which is indicated by the fact that it holds a full

microbiological laboratory

pharmaceutical manufacturing license, which is

is equipped to perform all

re-assessed regularly by the MCC. It also collaborates

assays and tests necessary

closely with raw material suppliers to ensure the

to ensure quality products

latest and highest quality ingredients are available

of high standards. Testing

for incorporation into prototype formulations, further

is carried out by qualified

The company has commissioned a new and much

adding value to the supply chain. Many of the CAMs

laboratory personnel, who

bigger microbiology laboratory.

product ranges on retail shelves today stem from

are also responsible for

Hersol, including a major part of retail house brands

Hersol has installed a third blistering machine to cope

quality control and quality

and certain sports nutrition brands. •

Weathering the economic storm, the company has managed to grow substantially and added another high performance liquid chromatography unit to meet the increased demand for stability testing.

with the rising demand for blister packaging, while its encapsulation department has added a third high speed, fully automatic encapsulation machine to its armour.


assurance throughout Hersol House. The microbiological laboratory is fitted with


Hersol Manufacturing Laboratories –


Harnessing synergies for success

With its series of recent acquisitions, Evonik is equipped to support its partners in their efforts to create cosmetics and home care products that are both highly effective and sustainable. This was evident at the recent Sepawa Congress.


past year with the Air Products, coupled with the innovative ingredients created in its own development laboratories. One example is Tego Sorb Conc.


vonik presented two new

absorb more than its

cosmetics ingredients at this

own weight in oil and

year’s Sepawa Congress, which

sebum. When used

took place from 18 to 20 October

in sunscreens and

in Berlin, Germany. Tego Solve 90 and

personal care products,

Tego Feel C 10 are based on natural

it prevents shiny skin and

raw materials.

leaves a pleasant after-

Tego Solve 90 is a Cosmos-certified

convenient car care. It cleans

can easily be used in oil-in-water formulations and water-in-oil emulsions

perfume and essential oils into aqueous

and is suitable for anhydrous products

formulations. The polyglycerol ester can be

such as cosmetic powders.

and protects cars, saves water and raw materials and reduces waste. The prototype formulation is named Rinsefree Wash & Wax and contains five Evonik

With the proprietary know-how

products, from specialty emulsifiers

glycol and made entirely from renewable

of the recently acquired specialty

resources such as canola and RSPO-

additives business of Air Products,

certified palm oil. It is suitable for many

Evonik has developed innovative

formulations, particularly clear ones

encapsulation technologies to deliver

such as shampoos, shower gels, micellar

active ingredients to deeper skin layers,

water products, make-up removers and

enhancing their efficacy.

and surfactants to uniquely modified silicones. It is easy to formulate as a concentrate and to apply as a ready-touse final dilution. ‘These are just a few examples of how we support our partners’ efforts to meet

roll-on deodorants. Tego Solve 90 also has Tego Feel C 10 is a natural, readily

contains zinc ions that

specifically designed for

feel. The fibre does not swell,

efficiently incorporate a wide array of

additional moisturising properties.

from castor oil. The product

bind unpleasant Evonik’s application odours to form a nontechnology laboratories in South Africa, China, Singapore, Indonesia, toxic substance. Latin America, Germany and the US Evonik’s household provide platforms for the company care business line has to respond particularly well developed a unique and to regional trends and innovative formulation consumers’ demands.

solubiliser that allows manufacturers to

cold processed, is free from polyethylene

50, an odour absorbent made

users’ specific demands,’ says Xiaolan

Cleaning and car care

Wang, who heads up Evonik’s household

The company has also tailored its

care business line. •

biodegradable replacement for micro-

products for laundry detergents and

plastics in leave-on products. This

cleaning agents. This expanded product

chemically unmodified cellulose fibre can

portfolio has been reinforced over the

Evonik –




Are prebiotics and probiotics worth the hype? Prebiotics and probiotics could become the next big revolution in skin care yet more research is needed to understand the role of healthy bacteria in treatment skin care. John Knowlton unpacks this growing trend, highlighting some questionable and controversial issues.


The real controversy lies in the probiotic skin care category

ive years ago, the mention of prebiotics or

orally to re-establish the equilibrium of bacteria in

probiotics would be directly connected to

the gastrointestinal tract but, more recently, they

the nutraceuticals market but today things

have been added to treatment skin care products

are very different. The use of prebiotics

claiming to improve external beauty and skin health.

and probiotics in treatment skin care is set to become the next revolution in the category.

The skin microbiome

Understandably, there is a lot of confusion

Accompanying the seemingly fanatical interest in the

between the terms ‘prebiotic’ and ‘probiotic’,

use of prebiotics and probiotics in treatment skin care

particularly from the consumer’s perspective,

is the concept of the skin microbiome. This term refers

so a clear understanding of the differences is

to the collection of microorganisms in a particular

essential for anyone working in the field.

environment – in this case it’s the surface of the skin.

Prebiotics were first identified and named

Microbiomes are specialised and vary according

in 1995 and are considered functional foods.

to environmental factors like skin surface pH and

Typically, prebiotics are carbohydrates such

moisture content. These microorganisms are often

as fructo-oligo-saccharides (FOS), gluci-

referred to as skin flora, another very trendy concept

oligo-saccharides and inulin. These are

in the contemporary skin care marketplace, and

non-digestible plant-based carbohydrates that discourage the growth of pathogens, while preserving beneficial bacteria found on the skin. Harmful organisms cannot use prebiotics as food supplements, so skinfriendly bacteria can grow faster than pathogens

they play a very important role on the skin. The stark reality is that our skin is covered with microorganisms, sometimes up to 100 million per square centimetre. As disturbing as this may be to some, they provide immunity and protect our skin from unwanted harmful bacteria and other invading pathogens. Healthy skin shows a very diverse and heterogeneous microbiome with a robust balance of

in the presence of

microbiological species. Compromised or diseased

these ingredients.

skin frequently shows an imbalance of the types of

Probiotics have

microorganisms present with some species, almost

been known to man

invariably pathogenic in nature, showing a much

for centuries. The term

higher incidence. This balance is critically affected

probiotic means ‘for

by the presence of intact skin barrier function. It may

life’ and the beneficial

also be affected by ultraviolet light, personal hygiene

organisms concerned

habits and the use of personal care products that

come from two main

exhibit any type of germ-killing capability. It is the aim

groups of bacteria:

of any cosmetics skin care product marketed on a

Lactobacillus and

prebiotic and/or probiotic platform, to redress that


balance to obtain optimal skin health – hence the


consumer excitement over this latest category trend.

probiotics have been

Debatable claims


When it comes to the exploitation of prebiotic and probiotic technologies in topical skin care products, the two concepts are often inextricably linked with no justification whatsoever. Prebiotic and probiotic technologies are distinctly different and the latter is far more controversial than the former, in the context



INGREDIENT & FORMULATION INNOVATION of the veracity of the promises being made to

health benefit’. So, if probiotic skin care products

the consumer.

live up to their claims, they should indeed

Prebiotics, the newer of the two technologies,

contain live bacteria, frequently from the genera

are essentially ingredients that may be added to a

Lactobacillus and/or Bifidobacterium, at the

cosmetics formulation to provide selective nutrition

point of sale to the consumer. This concept

for the good bacteria on the skin. This selective

is at best optimistic and, more realistically,

feeding process helps to restore a healthy

practically impossible.

skin microbiome, by allowing the beneficial

The concept of skin care products

microorganisms to flourish at the expense of

that contain live bacteria at the point

their pathogenic counterparts. Compared to

of purchase is sceptical from several

their so-called probiotic counterparts, there are

standpoints. Firstly, a cosmetics product

relatively few prebiotic technologies commercially

containing live bacteria would have a

available at the moment. This is likely to change in

questionable regulatory status, in that the

the future, however if prebiotic and probiotic skin

global definition of a cosmetics product

care remains the ‘horse to back’ in the evermore

does not legislate for the presence of such

dynamic yet fickle race that is today’s skin

levels of live microorganisms. Secondly, the

care market.

presence of live microorganisms in skin care

Prebiotics available for commercial use are

products raises various issues concerning product

frequently naturally derived from plant origin.

safety. After all, how would one predict how such

This can only serve to strengthen their appeal

viable microorganisms would behave over time

in a target market professing to believe that

and would the microbiological proliferation, if

anything from nature must be good – an

such a phenomenon could occur, eventually

argument unfortunately not as robust as one

compromise the safety of human health? Lastly,

may presuppose. Of those available ingredients,

there is the issue of preservation, which is perhaps

consumer promises include a calming and

the most telling of all. If probiotic skin care

soothing effect on skin, improved moisturisation and an overall improvement in skin health. The veracity of these claims can only be realistically determined by fastidious and scientifically robust clinical research, to ensure the promises being made to the consumer are indeed being kept.

Marketing versus reality

products did contain live bacteria,


then the preservation system(s) used to ensure an adequate

Between 2008 and 2013, American National Institutes of Health invested US $157 million in researching the Human Microbiome Project.

The real controversy lies in the probiotic

shelf-life of at least 30 months, would have to selectively kill any pathogens present, whilst leaving the beneficial bacteria

that are the foundation for

skin care category – a marketing concept that

the probiotic classification totally

is recklessly bandied about amongst consumer

unharmed. Yet this concept is

groups, which frequently think they know better

unlikely to the point of impossibility.

The global definition of a cosmetics product does not legislate for the presence of such levels of live microorganisms

than they do. The World Health Organization has defined

A craze or constant?

probiotics as ‘live microorganisms that, when

If the inclusion of live bacteria in probiotic skin care

administered in adequate amounts, confer a

products is not possible, then what ingredients

Introducing our CireNat® exfoliating spheres. Contact us today for your bespoke solution.

Tel: +27 11 473 1373 Email:




INGREDIENT & FORMULATION INNOVATION are actually found in the skin care products that

probiotics in topical skin care products, there is

profess to compete in the probiotic skin care market

no doubt whatsoever that the category is growing

category? In the current marketplace, the vast

rapidly. This is fuelled by the fact that the target

majority of commercially available probiotic skin

market for these products has a strong belief in

care products contain bacterial lysates or

their efficacy, which undoubtedly comes from the

fermentation products derived from various

explosion in the nutraceutical market over the

bacterial species. As such, and given that

last decade. However, the million-dollar question

the term probiotic means ‘for life’, it must be

remains: is this a trend that is set to change the skin

questioned whether the claim ‘probiotic skin

care market forever, or is it just another fad that

care’ has any veracity at all, given that no

will eventually be replaced by the next one in line?

live bacteria are likely to be present.

Unfortunately, in the absence

So, is the category of probiotic skin care no more than ‘the emperor’s

of a crystal ball, it is impossible to say. •

new clothes’? Well, it depends on the perspective. Indeed, there is much clinical data in literature to show that bacterial lysates and bacterial fermentation products can confer a multiplicity of benefits to the skin, including reducing sensitivity, improving lipid barrier function and even assisting in the prevention of the formation of acne. As ever, it is only scientifically robust and statistically significant clinical evaluations on the products concerned which can unequivocally determine their ability to deliver all that they promise to the trusting consumer. Notwithstanding the potential hype and controversy surrounding the use of prebiotics and

ABOUT John Knowlton (C.Chem, MRSC, UK Dip Cos. Sci.) is the founder of Cosmetic Solutions, which specialises in a wide range of consultancy services to the cosmetics industry. He is a pastpresident of the South African Society of Cosmetic Chemists (1999) and was chairman of the organising committee of the IFSCC Conference that was hosted in South Africa during the same year.

Personal Care our task is to help Crest Chemicals unveil Beauty

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Contact us: Johannesburg (011)254 3300, Cape Town (021)534 3140, Durban (031)9025324, East London (043) 726 8713 and Port Elizabeth (041)453 1981




How would you like

your lactose?

Armor Pharma’s technological lactose excipients are now available in South Africa. The company prides itself on flexibility to meet customers’ individual requirements and offers its range of pharmaceutical grade lactose in a variety of pack sizes.


rmor Pharma manufactures and

processes, such as milling, sieving,

markets pharmaceutical grade lactose

granulation and spray drying can be

for oral solid dosage forms and dry

used to obtain engineered lactose

powder inhalation formulations. This

particles with controlled physical

lactose supplier is focused on customer service

properties and functionality related

and forms part of a large long-standing group

characteristics. Several packaging

of companies. Armor Pharma has its roots in

options can then be proposed to fulfill

the family owned international dairy company,

customer’s requirements.

Savencia, which is one of the world’s leading dairy processors. It benefits from the group’s drying and powder functionalisation expertise and its more than 40 years’ experience in producing lactose. To offer the most flexible lactose solutions to the market, the company’s production tools, processes and services are designed to bring customisation options, from product development right through to day-to-day business.

Armor Pharma offers full traceability of its lactose from raw material to finished product State-of-the-art production and processes

Jan Dijksterhuis from Armor Pharma with Colleen Maroun, Jackie Wilkin and Loryn Bloomer from Orkila South Africa


Based in Loudeac, Brittany, France – in the heart of the country’s leading dairy area – Armor Pharma

IN AUGUST 2016, the company announced

according IPEC-PQG and ISO norms. We

offers full traceability of its lactose from raw

that its pharmaceutical grade lactose

are proud to receive EXCiPACT certification

material to finished product.

production site had been deemed to meet

and are one of the first French excipient

standards set out within the EXCiPACT

manufacturers to be certified. This confirmes

art facility, built in 2014, which is dedicated to

certification scheme. Certifying body SGS

that our state-of-the-art dedicated plant suits

pharmaceutical grade lactose manufacturing

audited the facility on 25 May and confirmed

all pharmaceutical excipient requirements,’

using the latest production technology and

Armor Pharma’s activities comply with the

said Simon Levesque, Armor Pharma’s business

where risks surrounding cross-contamination are

quality standards for pharmaceutical excipients.

development manager.

constantly avoided.

The certification provides independent

The company benefits from a state-of-the-

Its lactose manufacturing process includes crystallisation, purification and drying to achieve a lactose powder that conforms to the

EXCiPACT is a voluntary programme

validation that the company maintains excipient

and third party certification scheme for

Good Manufacturing Practice (GMP).

manufacturers, suppliers and distributors of

‘Since the beginning of our activity in

pharmaceutical excipients. It is aligned to

pharmacopoeial purity standard for lactose

2014, we have been operating according to

ISO 9001 and NSF/IPEC/ANSI 363-2014: GMP

monohydrate. Secondary processing is also

the international industrial GMP standard,

for pharmaceutical excipients.

required to functionalise the excipient. Different



INGREDIENT & FORMULATION INNOVATION Process analytical technology Particle size distribution is an important formulation parameter and the most significant functionality related characteristic of lactose. To ensure intra-batch and batch-to-batch consistency, Armor Pharma has implemented in-process particle size distribution controls, which the company believes are an industry first. Several sampling points along the production line measure particle size every second using Malvern laser diffraction, enabling deviation control. Particle size distribution can influence the properties of tablets and flowability. For example,


The first major application of lactose in the pharma industry was to serve as a carbohydrate source in a growth medium to produce penicillin. Yet newer strains of Penicillium in the ’50s provided for the use of cheaper substrates. Since then, lactose has become the most widely used excipient as a filler/binder in tablets, capsules and other oral dosage forms.

fine particles lead to higher binding strength due to higher specific surface area while coarse particles flow better than fine particles. Equally sized particles also flow better Cécile Lemée from Armor Pharma

A structured range of lactose Lactose is one of the most widely used excipients as a filler/

binder in tablets, capsules and

other oral dosage forms. Armor Pharma manufactures and markets three ranges for various applications. Its sieved and milled lactose is ideal for sachets,

than powders that contain a wide range of

tablets and capsules formulation. The varieties

particle sizes.

are 80 mesh (coarse sieved powder), 150 mesh

The company also measures the density and

(milled powder), 200 mesh (fine milled powder)

flowability of its lactose. The former is performed

Armor Pharma has two individual laboratories that operate according to cGMP

by measuring bulk and tapped

and 350 mesh (very finely milled powders). Its Excipress direct compressible lactose

density while the latter is measured

GR 150 and SD2 grades are typically used for

using several techniques, including

direct compression. GR 150 is a granulated

the flodex test instrument and angle

lactose while SD2 is spray dried, giving different

of repose.

performances in direct compression applications.

For full in-house testing, Armor

Compressibility studies have been performed

Pharma has two individual

on the GR 150 and SD2 grades, to validate their

laboratories that operate according

effectiveness in direct compression. The results

to cGMP, enabling on-site testing of

are available upon request.

analysis described in specifications,

Armor Pharma’s Excipure range includes

be it physical/chemical

different types of lactose for inhalation. Used

and microbiological.

in the formulation of dry powder inhalers, this

The company’s R&D laboratory focuses on chemical structures

and physical properties to support product development.

coarse, fine or blended lactose enables to active pharmaceutical ingredients to be carried into the lungs. The company recently entered into an exclusive distribution agreement with Orkila South Africa, making its innovative lactose portfolio available to local pharmaceutical and nutraceutical manufacturers. To launch these products to the market, Orkila South Africa hosted an intimate breakfast with key customers at Maxwells in Waterfall Office Park, Midrand. This provided the perfect setting for Armor Pharma’s commercial project manager, Cécile Lemée and business development manager, Jan Dijksterhuis to share insight into the company and its pharma grade lactose solutions. Technical documentation and samples are available upon request. •

Armor Pharma – Orkila South Africa –












New sunflower-based surfactant


lariant, a world leader in

The latest addition to Clariant’s GlucoPure

In terms of sensory, GlucoPure Sense

speciality chemicals, heralds

family of mild yet effective renewable

stands out in the GlucoPure portfolio for

a new era for renewable

surfactants has a high renewable carbon

adding a superior, soft and moisturised

surfactants in hand

index (RCI) of more than 96 percent,

skin feel to formulations. In blind testing,

dishwashing liquid detergents with a market

consisting of 100 percent renewable

a sensory panel reported an improved

breakthrough, GlucoPure Sense. This

sunflower oil and 100 percent renewable

and pleasant after-feel compared to an

unique label-free surfactant is based on 100

glucose, both sourced in Europe. It has

existing market product, as well as an

percent renewable sunflower oil sourced

active matter of between 50 to 55 percent

easier to rinse foam.

in Europe.

Oleyl Glucamide.

Label-free solution

GlucoPure Sense supports hand dishwashing liquid experts in addressing

An industry first

Ralf Zerrer, head of strategic marketing

challenges such as irritant labelling and

The surfactant is the first to carry no irritant

for business unit industrial and consumer

non-tropical ingredient sourcing while

labels (H318 or H319) under GHS and allows

specialties at Clariant, comments:

achieving comparable performance to

formulations with no irritant or corrosive

‘GlucoPure Sense lives up to its name.

traditional surfactants.

labels consistent with European Union (EU)

It gives the segment an effective

regulations. It delivers high foam mileage

alternative to green raw materials

in both hard and soft water and is proven

derived from tropical sources. Thanks

in plate tests to match the performance

to its excellent eco-tox profile and

standards of regular surfactants such as

cleaning power, it is a viable option

betaines. For example, H318 can be avoided

for manufacturers looking for a lighter

in mild SLES/betaine formulations by using

label or to go completely label-free with

GlucoPure Sense as the co-surfactant. It

their formulations.’ •

is also possible to pursue no exclamation mark (H319) labelling in formulations with

Clariant –

more than nine percent a.m.

Shonna Twynham | Product Manager Tel: 27119221830 | Cell: 2779 372 0761 Fax: 2711 976 1706 Email: Web:




THE FUTURE IS NOW! The most advanced delivery system for active ingredients • Targets Specific Cells – releases active ingredients where needed • Cost Effective Powerhouse – selectivity allows low dosage • Maximum Results

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cosmetics drone

Infinitec’s new range of advanced delivery systems for cosmetics actives have been developed in response to an industry need for encapsulated systems. These capsules not only protect the active but also ensure its targeted delivery to a specific site.


adipocytes. Adipose tissue can be divided into two types: 1. s ingle large white fat droplets 2. n  umerous smaller brown droplets. It is the white adipose tissue that is the target site of any re-shaping system since it is the tissue responsible for the

he cosmetics industry possesses

1 illustrates the six individual targets of the

often excessive and increased volume in

a broad range of actives within

X50 Capsules, which characterise their

certain areas of the body. X50 Silhouette

its market. Every year developers

specific efficacy.

represents a significant advance in

strive to increase the therapeutic

These capsules consist of an inner matrix

the fight against cellulite. It contains a

index of an active while minimising side

of polylactide-co-glycolide acid (PLGA) and

synergistic combination of actives in this

effects. As a result, delivery systems have

an outer polyvinyl alcohol (PVA) shell. They

advanced delivery system optimised to

become paramount.

have a standard size of about 175 to 300nm,

maximise fat burning (lipolysis), minimise

Barcelona-based Infinitec, proudly

averaging 220nm. The X50 Capsules are

lipid storage (lipogenesis) and inhibit

represented in South Africa by Materia

assimilated by specific cells and release

the maturation of new adipocytes

Medica, has developed a series of

encapsulated actives inside the cytosol. A

(adipogenesis). X50 Silhouette is an

specialised delivery systems each with

ligand peptide is covalently bound to their

encapsulated fruit extract, which

a unique ability to target specific cells,

outer layer to lead them to the target cell.

downregulates the genes implicated in

whether it’s a fibroblast, melanocyte, neuron

This will ensure the capsule is delivered

adipocytes differentiation or maturation,

or adipocyte. A dual layer capsule, called

to a specific receptor on the target cell.

including enzymes involved in adipocyte

X50 Capsules, is the core of this cosmetics

Figure 2 shows how the ligand peptide

differentiation and growth, which favour

drone technology. There are currently six

confers precise targeting properties to the

fat storage.

drones within this range with more to be

X50 Capsules. When a mixture of different

launched at in-cosmetics global 2018.

cell types is exposed to these innovative

Using medical technology to vectorise the capsule towards a specific target, the X50

capsules, they show a high affinity for target

Get even tone with X50 Pure White

cells’ specific receptors.

Pigmentation is regulated by several influences such as genetic, environmental

Capsules can achieve maximum efficacy at low dosage levels (0.001 percent). Figure Figure 1: The six individual targets


Target adipocytes with X50 Silhouette

and endocrine factors, which modulate

On average, an adult human body

melanin in the skin. Being the largest organ


the amount, type and distribution of

contains fat

of the body that is constantly under the

cells with an

influence of internal and external factors,


skin reacts to those agents by modifying its

weight of 13kg.

pigmentation pattern. Key players in skin

Adipocytes are

pigmentation include melanocytes that

derived from

synthesise melanin and αMSH. Extrinsic


factors such as UV light equally affect the

stem cells.

pigmentation process. Inhibition of the

Once they are

action of intrinsic and extrinsic factors is


crucial for the success of any whitening


ingredient. X50 Pure White was designed to


block UV-induced melanogenic reactions

they can

triggered by the stimulation of membrane

either remain

MSH receptors (ligand peptide) and to

in this state or

inhibit tyrosinase gene expression by


the encapsulated peptide. This capsule

into mature

inhibits αMSH binding to its receptor

INGREDIENT & FORMULATION INNOVATION that will block UV-induced melanogenic

contains a synergistic

pathways, inhibiting melanogenesis.

combination of actives

It is effective under stimulated conditions

Figure 2: The ligand peptide on the outer layer leads the X50 Capsule to the target cell

in an advanced delivery

without effecting basal melanogenesis,

system designed to

suggesting it inhibits tyrosinase expression.

optimise the reduction

X50 Pure White is based on patented

of wrinkles and

technology and exhibits extraordinary

expression lines. Its inner

clinical results. The results observed in

encapsulated peptide

volunteer 04945 over an eight-week period

inhibits snare complex

are shown in Figure 3.

formation, consequently minimising neuronal

Facial rejuvenation with X50 Hyalufiller

exocytosis processes.

No single filler has proven to be more acids. Although side effects are rare with

Target fibroblasts with X50 Anti- ageing

hyaluronic acid injectables; redness,

Ageing of the skin

swelling and bruising are common. X50

is the most visible

Hyalufiller creates a new needle-free

biological effect of

anti-ageing category with no side effects.

this phenomenon. The

This capsule provides non-surgical facial

main consequences

rejuvenation based on hyaluronic acid. This

are wrinkling, sagging

popular anti-ageing enzyme is naturally

and apparent thinning

synthesised at such a high rate by the

of the skin, age spots

skin’s cells, plumping skin and filling out

and a loss of elasticity.

wrinkles in the same way as hyaluronic

Gradual thinning of the

acid injectables.

epidermis and dermis

popular than the category of hyaluronic

Figure 3: Volunteer 04945’s results with X50 Pure White

is normally observed

X50 Pure White was designed to block UV-induced melanogenic reactions triggered X50 Myocept targets expression lines

at about 45 years and older. Ageing factors lead to the destruction of the extracellular matrix, which ultimately leads to a worsening of skin quality. Increasing the synthesis of collagen is an ideal approach to reduce the effects of skin ageing.

This capsule selectively targets

X50 Anti-aging contains an anti-wrinkle

fibroblasts by a specific ligand on its

active ingredient that stimulates collagen

surface that interacts with FGF receptors.

and elastin synthesis, acting at a gene

It contains a natural molecule made of

expression level.

Chorella vulgaris activated by light to

Chronic facial expressions can enhance

generate metabolic energy – ATP. This

formation. Skin nerve cells control this

Energise dull skin with X50 Photoglow

mechanism via neurotransmission. Facial

The effect of light on the skin is due to

movements and muscle contractions

various degrees of electromagnetic

depend on the exocytotic cascade and

radiation absorption. The visible light

available in liquid or powder forms and

the subsequent release of appropriate

spectrum has a 400 to 760nm wavelength.

can be incorporated into oil, water and

neurotransmitters in the motor neuron

Once light reaches the skin, some is

powder formulations. The Infinitec portfolio,

unit. The key is to try and prevent excessive

absorbed, reflected or scattered and some

specialising in advanced delivery systems,

muscle contraction, which ultimately leads

is further transmitted. The absorbed light

is unlimited and incorporates Eco-cert

to these deeper lines. Both calcium and

causes chromophores to become excited.

approved products, offering a solution for

formation of the SNARE protein complex are

X50 Photoglow photodynamic therapy is

all categories in the cosmetics industry. •

crucial steps in the inhibition process.

based on the delivery of a photosensitiser

skin ageing leading to deeper wrinkle

X50 Myocept represents a significant

results in a reaction where light energy absorbed by the skin is turned into skin cell energy. All six Infinitec X50 Capsules are

(exogenous chromophore) that is eventually

advance in the fight against expression

excited by visible light, as the light itself

wrinkles and lines caused by excessive

is not sufficient to produce significant

muscle contraction. This capsule

photochemical reactions in the tissue.

Infinitec – Materia Medica –




Hair care

we host the competition and celebrate with the awards on an annual basis.

steals the show

Congratulations to all the winners and runners up. The results of the 2017 P C Review/Symrise New Product Competition are as follows: OVERALL WINNERS

On 5 October, Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review, in association with Symrise, welcomed guests to The Venue Greenpark in Sandton, Johannesburg for the 2017 New Product Competition awards.

• Winner: Schwarzkopf Professional BC Repair Rescue Nutri-Shield Serum (Henkel South Africa) • First Runner Up: Sorbet 3 in 1 Micellar Cleansing Water (Sorbet Salon Skin) •S  econd Runner Up: Skinderm (Imbalie Beauty)


INDIVIDUAL CATEGORY • Winner: Schwarzkopf Professional BC Repair Rescue Nutri-Shield Serum (Henkel South Africa) •F  irst Runner Up: Sorbet 3 in 1 Micellar Cleansing Water (Sorbet Salon Skin) •S  econd Runner Up: Placecol Illuminé Retinol Serum (Imbalie Beauty) RANGE CATEGORY



eturning to the exquisite venue that offers incredible panoramic views of Johannesburg’s business and industrial hotspots such as

were received and while there

the P C Review/Symrise New Product

was a decline in the number of entries

Competition awards was a night to

from last year’s competition, the judges

remember. This is especially true for Henkel

agreed the quality of this year’s products

South Africa, which took the top prize for its

far surpassed that of previous years.

Nutri-Shield Serum. Named the overall winner of the

(Imbalie Beauty) • First Runner Up:

Entries are now open for the Sorbet Man Skin and 2018 New Product Competition. For Beard Care Range more information on the awards and (Sorbet Man) how to enter, send an e-mail to natalie. Entries • Second Runner Up: driving innovation in the are open to local and international Schwarzkopf Professional South African personal products, which are BC Fibre Force (Henkel care and cosmetics available on the South South Africa) industry. This year, 18 entries African market.

Sandton and stretching as far as Isando,

Schwarzkopf Professional BC Repair Rescue

• Winner: Skinderm

EDITOR’S CHOICE AWARD •W  inner: Retinin Resurfacing Moisturiser (Skoon. Skin Care)

based on innovation, which is where

New Packaging Category sponsor

the magic happens. But innovation is

To grow the competition in all the relevant

The New Product Competition is

2017 P C Review/Symrise New Product

uncomfortable; it takes risk – a factor that

areas, P C Review has welcomed

Competition, the judges said the serum’s

cannot be controlled. During the judging

MCC Labels South Africa on board as

formulation was ‘beautifully executed’ while

day when all the entries

the packaging has ‘superior print quality’,

were evaluated

is ‘well designed’ and incorporates a ‘great

by our esteemed

choice of materials’.

panel of judges, it

A representative from Henkel SA’s

became apparent

Ethnic care R&D team will be travelling to

that the current

Amsterdam, the Netherlands in 2018, to

economic climate

attend in-cosmetics Global, which will take

could be deterring

place from 17 to 19 April.

brands from feeding their appetite for

Innovation and compliance drive results

risk. Yet there are

Over the past 10 years, the New Product

excellence within the

Competition has played a significant role in

industry, which is why


still those pockets of




NEW PRODUCT COMPETITION the sponsor of the packaging category.

company combines its knowledge

The company forms part of a global

about consumers’ ever-changing

organisation, Multi-Color Corporation,

needs with creativity and ground-

which is one of the largest label businesses

breaking technologies.

servicing the following market segments:


At this year’s awards, Laetitia Ngassa,

health care; home and personal care; food

Symrise’s fragrance development

and beverage; speciality (automotive and

director, took guests on an olfactive

consumer durables); and wine and spirits.

journey through the company’s new De

In Africa, it is the largest and most

fragrance heritage, the De Laire bases are

cosmetics, food and wine industries.

timeless, contemporary and recognised by These iconic blends were first developed

•W  inner: Schwarzkopf Professional BC Fibre

by the De Laire’s, who were visionary

•F  irst Runner Up: The Repair Balm (dr. dermal)

Professional BC Repair Rescue Nutri-Shield Serum (Henkel

perfumers and customers around the world.

are as follows: Force (Henkel South Africa)


Laire bases. Based on 220 years of fine

awarded premium label printer servicing the The results of the 2017 Packaging Category


South Africa)


entrepreneurs and innovative scientists. Maxine Robertson, a key account manager at Symrise, highlighted the

•S  econd Runner Up: Six Man (Six Sensational Skincare)

Sorbet 3 in 1 Micellar

fragrance division’s story line – ‘Better living

Cleansing Water

through scent’ – which was launched

(Sorbet Salon Skin)

worldwide in November 2016. ‘Better living

A brief look at the competition

through scent’ is set to drive Symrise’s

Now in its 10th year, the NPC aims to give

fragrance division into a new era. It

local and international brands that are

highlights the rich heritage and unique

supplied on the South African market, an

cross-disciplinary collaboration at the global

opportunity to showcase their innovative new

company along with its ability to


create sensorial fragrances that

The judging panel for the 2017 competition included formulation experts Robyn Brown

enhance beauty benefits.


The story line elevates the

(Imbalie Beauty)

(Botanichem) and Elizna Hurter (Skinchem);

division to the next level of

technical and regulatory specialist, Jill

fragrance creation providing

Gardiner and Percy Sibanda (L’Oréal South

consumers with products

Africa); packaging gurus Clive Glover and

that improve their beauty and

Tony de Beer, and marketing specialist, Adele

wellbeing. Better living is also focused on

du Toit (Annique).

improving the living conditions, income,

The P C Review team is grateful for the valuable input of all the judges. Together they are dedicated to steering key


health and education of Symrise’s partners throughout the supply chain.


The Henkel South Africa team celebrates its win with representatives from P C Review


Laetitia Ngassa


Natalie da Silva, P C Review publishing manager, Mandy Roff from 121 Jamming, the public relations representative for Imbalie Beauty, and Abby Vorster, editor of P C Review


Warren Blair, MCC Labels South Africa’s new business development manager and Lutendo Magina from Henkel South Africa


Warren Blair and Sahil Singh from dr.dermal


E mma du Plessis from Skoon.Skin


Representatives from the Sorbet Group show off their certificates and trophies from the 2017 awards

In doing so, Symrise focuses on

developments within in the competition,

developing solutions that provide its

maintaining its high standards and providing

customers with added value. It also ensures

crucial feedback to the entrants.

sustained value creation by allowing its employees and shareholders to share in the

Thanks to our generous sponsor

company’s success. •

Symrise is globally recognised as a leading provider of fragrances, flavours, active ingredients and aroma chemicals as well as sensorial and nutritional solutions. The


MCC Labels South Africa – Symrise –


7 6





fine fragrance maceration

Brazilian company Assessa is disrupting the time consuming and costly process of fine fragrance creation with Quidex 3.2. Shani Vermeulen from Cosmetic Ingredients shares insight into this processing aid.


ine fragrance production starts

cells and affect fragrance

with the creation of the fragrance,

perception. When the

which is added to a blend of

fine fragrance concentrate

ethanol and water and yielded to

is added to the polar blend


the perception

Francois Demachy, perfumerof the fragrance’s more creator at Parfums Chirstian Dior, subtle notes. Traditionally, once said: ‘A successful perfume the undesired particles is one in which the formula is as that precipitate can beautiful as the fragrance… One be removed by keeping that makes the woman wearing it smile and awakens the blend chilled for a few desire in a man.’ days up to several weeks before filtering out the particles

a time-consuming ageing process known

of ethanol and water, the non-polar

to achieve the crystal clear finished

as maceration. This consists of three steps:

impurities form a stable suspension of

fragrances we see on retail shelves.

ageing; cooling and filtering.

very fine particles. The blend can, during

Like a fine wine must age to improve its

maceration, undergo chemical changes

taste – a fine fragrance has to macerate.

unwanted by-products such as waxes,

that could affect the perception of the

The ageing process can take anything

steroids and paraffins. Volatile substances

fragrance. The new molecules that form

from a few days up to a few weeks and

like acetaldehydes overpower the olfactory

are less volatile and do not interfere in

time equals money. Ageing tanks are

Fragrance ingredients often contain



FRAGRANCES & ESSENTIAL OILS cloud the fragrance, the entire maceration process has to be repeated.

Quidex 3.2’s advantages: • i mmediate results with just a

Time-saving innovation

0.1 percent dosage

Quidex 3.2 powder is a disruptive innovation that, as little as 0.1 percent, saves fragrance

• easy to incorporate into the hydroalcoholic solution

manufacturing costs by transforming

•e  asily removed by filtration

maceration into a hazard-free, time- and

• easy to handle, transport and stock

energy-saving process. The patented

• f ree from preservatives.

technology is based on the combination of highly reactive, sustainable biopolymers and mesh-forming molecules.

innovation, the entire maceration process

Quidex 3.2 is neither a fixative nor a

can be performed at room temperature.

costly and take up floor space. The inventory

booster ingredient. It is a powder that

costs are high while tanks filled with

reacts instantly with contaminants and

flammable liquid pose a fire risk, leading to

undesirable volatile components (which

increased risk and higher insurance costs.

block the olfactory receptor cells) in the

While fragrances age, working capital is

alcoholic blend, thereby accelerating the

restricted. Should a certain fragrance sell

maceration process.

unexpectedly well and stock runs low, sales

macerate, the benefits can be perceived

batch is still ageing.

in that the biopolymers immediately remove the volatile notes and impurities

down to the required temperature is also

from the hydroalcoholic blend so that

expensive. The time the fragrances are kept

the pure fragrance scents can be

at this temperature adds to the costs.

perceived immediately.

Once ageing and chilling are completed, the fragrance is filtered. If tiny particles still

Quidex 3.2 does not remove any fragrance component; it also doesn’t alter the olfactory properties, which has been chromatographically proven for hundreds of fragrances. Trained perfumers and evaluators agreed they could not detect

Even if a manufacturer does not

opportunities can be missed while the new The energy needed to cool fragrances

have an INCI name. By using this powder

Because it is not a cosmetic ingredient, but a processing aid, Quidex 3.2 does not

any significant difference when comparing fragrances processed with this new technology versus those processed using traditional maceration technology. •

Assessa – Cosmetic Ingredients –

Tel 011 608 4944 Fax 011 608 4948 Email

Sensetek.indd 1

2017/03/02 11:50 AM




A colourful daily diet for cosmetics Germany-based company, Bell Flavors & Fragrances EMEA, represented in South Africa by Fourchem, encourages natural cosmetics brands to try out new product concepts using its innovative vegetable fragrances and corresponding botanical extracts.


he international personal care market can no longer be imagined without natural and organic cosmetics. Health- and environmentally conscious

consumers increasingly opt for green


alternatives yet many manufacturers stick to familiar product concepts, risking consumers become bored

Yes To Tomatoes Skin Clearing Facial Mask, produced in the US, has a superfood INCI listing with organic tomatoes, watermelon, pumpkin, avocado and red pepper, making it the ultimate fruit and veggie combo face mask. True to the trend, this mineral-rich formula promises to exfoliate skin and reduce oiliness.

with their products and switching. The global market for natural and organic cosmetics continues to grow. More consumers use natural products for skin and hair care in the general trend towards increasingly health- and

environmentally conscious purchasing

behaviour. Compared internationally, Germany was the frontrunner in 2016 according to Cosmetics Business with an additional 500 000 German consumers purchasing natural and organic cosmetics, contributing to a share of 8.5 percent in the country’s cosmetics market.

Innovation will be rewarded Many players compete for the growing group of potential buyers, with new natural brands constantly entering the market. Several brands use a natural positioning, although the products they sell are not exactly natural cosmetics, making them so-called natureinspired cosmetics. They use claims such as ‘beauty inspired by nature’, ‘plant-based beauty products’ or ’95 percent natural ingredients’. Nature-inspired products are generally not certified by Natrue, Cosmos or Ecocert. Despite their lower percentage of natural ingredients, these brands remain strong competitors to authentic products from the natural and organic segment. Smart marketing concepts and distinct branding are what convinces an increasing number of customers to buy nature-inspired cosmetics. As a result, for the first time ever, in 2016 this segment grew faster in Germany




Pumpkin and Pink Pepper, Tomato and Sage, as well as Sweet Potato have been created to inspire and encourage manufacturers to provide striking personal care experiences to natureloving customers demanding. Nature-oriented consumers are

all kinds of applications, from shampoo

also looking for novel product experiences.

and shower gel to body lotion and face

After the superfruits trend in the food and

masks. Notes of complementing herbs

more recently the personal care industry,

and spices provide interesting nuances to

than natural and organic cosmetics, as

vegetables are likely to become the next big

some of the fragrances or add value to end

indicated by industry expert and the author

thing in natural cosmetics.

products in the form of botanical extracts.

of Naturkosmetik, Elfriede Dambacher. Bell Flavors & Fragrances recommends

With its new natural vegetable

Fragrance creations such as Pumpkin and

fragrances, Bell delivers the basis for

Pink Pepper, Tomato and Sage, as well

natural and organic cosmetics brands

natural personal care products, which will

as Sweet Potato have been created to

to stand up to nature-inspired ones with

surprise consumers and meet their needs in

inspire and encourage manufacturers of

greater appetite for risk and the courage

complying with the desire for a holistically

natural beauty products to provide striking

to try out extraordinary product concepts.

healthy lifestyle.

personal care experiences to nature-

This is certain to help brands stand out from the competition.

Vegetable fragrances

Raw vegetables like carrot, tomato and

loving customers. •

bell pepper are not only beneficial for physical health, but are also considered real beauty boosters. Inspired by this

The target group for natural beauty

perception, the perfumers of Bell have

products is becoming younger and more

created eight innovative compositions for

Bell Flavors & Fragrances EMEA – Fourchem –




Home, heritage and fragrance innovation In August, Symrise’s customers and its scent and care team had the opportunity to meet the internationally acclaimed fragrance industry expert, Michael Edwards. Hosted at the company’s Johannesburg office, Edwards let his fountain of fragrance knowledge flow in an inspiring presentation. By Abby Vorster


he world of perfumery is captivating. It

that has evolved to include a comprehensive

creates happiness and sparks memories,

and accurate online classification database,

meeting the emotional and sensory

Fragrances of The World was first published in

needs of consumers from all walks of life

1983 for retailers, listing just 323 fragrances. Now

with various offerings. These range from mass

in its 32nd print edition, the guidebook is regarded

market and fine fragrance creations to boutique

as the industry’s ‘bible’ and remains perfumery’s

artisanal perfumes, more commonly known as

most comprehensive reference tool.

niche fragrances. Regardless of their positioning, these

Damodar Mosangi (Amka), Michael Edwards, Anil Desai (Amka) and Karin Barends (Symrise)

Capturing what’s home grown

creations are guided by The Fragrance

Although Edwards currently divides his time

Wheel and its unique classification system

between Sydney, Paris, London and New York

developed by Edwards. His olfactory map

to stay abreast of new launches and industry

explains the relationships between 14 fragrance

developments, he is originally from Malawi.

families and has become a universal icon of

Edwards is proud of his African heritage and the

perfume classification.

unique and magical aromas that characterise Edwards, who has

our rustic and enigmatic continent. One of his first

been called ‘the

memories of an African scent dates back to his

perfume experts’

childhood when tamboti wood shavings with their

expert’, was in South

vetiver aroma were added to his bath water.

Africa in August for the

While the African market, and South Africa

first time in about 30

in particular, is driven by European fragrance

years for an intimate

trends, Edwards says local perfumers should

presentation session

look to the fascinating scents of historical African

on Fragrances of

rituals for inspiration.

The World hosted

Internationally famed South African luxury

by Symrise. Initially

brand, Frazer Parfum, the brainchild of Tammy

a bilingual English

Frazer (granddaughter of the inventor of Oil

and French

of Olay, Graham Wulff), is all about regional


inspiration. According to her website, Frazer Parfum’s African Collection is inspired by perfume raw materials sourced on the continent. ‘These fragrances capture the climes of Africa, from the rich florals of plains and grassland, through forests’ woody notes to the subtle resins found in hardy desert regions. There are two complex fragrances inspired by Africa and four Soliflore scents inspired by the intricate purity of flowers from Africa’.

The role of artisan perfumes Edwards says a lot can be learnt from international master perfumer, Bertrand Duchaufour, who created a line of niche perfumes (2003) with fragrance design consultant Pamela Roberts, called Odeurs Volées par un Parfumeur en Voyage meaning ‘Smells Stolen by a Travelling Perfumer’. Of this



FRAGRANCES & ESSENTIAL OILS line, Timbuktu L’Artisan Parfumeur for men and women is revered as one of ‘the greatest scents of our time’. In his book Perfume Legends: The New Edition


June 2018, Edwards writes extensively about Timbuktu L’Artisan Parfumeur, which was inspired by Duchaufour’s travels to this ancient African city in Mali where he encountered the wusulan ritual of women perfuming by smoke. He recounts Roberts’ conversations with Duchaufour on the wusulan ritual in relation to developing Timbuktu: ‘It is an art passed down from mother to daughter. Women infuse oils with grains and roots – notably those of a local grass that smells like vetiver. Each woman composes her own mixture, often adding a few drops of a European


designer. Users can also search by includes

gender, year of launch and corporate

the Fragrance Database, established to

group. The database also retains details

educate, inspire and empower users. It

on all limited editions and discontinued

pledges to maintain the most extensive

fragrances, providing valuable

and up to date industry reference tool that

historical references.

is revised weekly. Access to the database

There is also a fully customisable retail

is via paid subscription, allowing users

app, which is both a sales and training

to search by brand, family classification,

tool that puts a wealth of knowledge at the

notes, perfumer, oil house and bottle

fingertips of retailers, at the point of sale.

perfume bought at the market’. Edwards goes on to discuss Duchaufour’s description, which brings

personalised fragrance experiences. Already

the smell of the wusulan rituals to life: ‘When

a strong movement in international markets,

women stand by the burners and wave their

personalisation, albeit gradual on the local

dresses and hair through the smoke, the smell

uptake, is predicted to gain ground in 2018. This

is strong, very particular and sophisticated. It’s

is according to self-acclaimed South African

woody, like oud, and spicy, smoky and animalic,

‘perfumista’ Diana Rankin, who says fragrance

like castoreum. The women smell just incredible

shoppers are highly focused on niche creations,

afterwards! I tried to reproduce that scent using

which is resulting in more and more perfumers

my own particular palette’.

moving away from the conventional to include

Timbuktu, according to Edwards’ book, is

unusual ingredients in their fragrances. •

Duchaufour’s artistic interpretation of what he smelt in Mali mixed with other ideas coming from whatever inspired him during his trip. ‘For

Symrise –

Maxine Robertson (Symrise) with Michael Edwards

example, when I was there, the mango trees were in bloom. So I added a green fruity mango top note to Timbuktu. It balances the deep, strong base note and gives contrast. It also creates a greater evolution and improves the story’, Edwards writes, relaying the views of Duchaufour. Local brands and manufacturers should look to Duchaufour’s eternal success with Timbuktu to start their own fragrance journeys based on distinctly African experiences. This will have particular impact among the growing numbers of consumers who continue to move away from standardised scents in search of more

Leandri van der Watt (Optiphi) and Geraldine Augustine-Darwood (Tupperware South Africa)

Distributors of Fine Fragrances

Proudly appointed distributor of Symrise Fragrances, Cosmetic Ingredients and Aroma Molecules

Tel: 011 791 0312 | Fax : 086 273 2283 |




Insight, leading brands and prospects

In 2016, oral care recorded healthy current value growth of nine percent despite fierce price competition. According to Euromonitor International this performance can largely be attributed to the premiumisation trend, with many consumers trading up.


he market research provider

16 percent. The impact of price

says there is expected to be a growing focus on oral care regimes in 2018/19. Consumers will

increasingly be concerned about the health of their teeth, with widening awareness that gum disease can lead to other health complications. In addition, the grooming trend is set to encourage a growing number of consumers to strive for attractive white teeth and fresh breath.

competition is likely to be counterbalanced by consumers trading up in search of


products claiming more efficacy or multifunctional benefits. This trend will support a four percent unit price growth for toothpaste

The history of Listerine dates back between 2018 and 2021. more than 130 years, to the beginnings of modern medicine. It all started in 1860, with the work of Sir Joseph Lister. A competitive Then in 1879, Doctor Joseph Lawrence category created a unique formulation in Leading players Colgatehis laboratories, inspired by the Palmolive and GlaxoSmithKline research of Sir Lister, and are likely to compete aggressively called it Listerine.

Thanks to these trends, oral care is expected to see a two percent CAGR

for share in the oral care category in the forecast period. These companies

in value sales at constant 2016 prices between

will continue to invest heavily in new product

2018 and 2021. Growth is likely to slow slightly

development and marketing, and are expected

in comparison to the review period CAGR of

to gain share as economic confidence rises.

three percent. This will partly be due to slowing

The dominant brands and brand owners in the

retail volume because of a higher sales base

oral care market are detailed in Figure 1.

and rising maturity. Toothpaste is set to see just

Generally, the category is benefiting from

a two percent value CAGR at constant 2016

a strong government focus on improving oral

prices in the forecast period in comparison to

health in the country, with official statistics

a three percent CAGR seen during the previous

indicating that an estimated 90 percent of

five years.

South Africans suffer from gum disease at

Strong price competition is also expected

Figure 1

some point in their life. The government notably

during the forecast

steps up its campaigns in September each

period, with retailers

year, with this being designated National

and players

Oral Health Month. Leading players in oral

increasingly using

care are also seeking to improve consumer

price promotions to

education, with Colgate-Palmolive running

drive sales. This is

the Bright Smiles, Bright Futures programme

projected to result

targeting schoolchildren.














Procter & Gamble




Johnson & Johnson







in double-digit unit

White Glo

Barros Laboratories



price decline in some

its work with government on consumer health





categories, with

campaigns. New product development at the





manual toothbrushes

start of the review period is, for example, likely

Plus + White

CCA Industries



dropping by 14

to include Colgate Total, which was launched





percent and

in the UK in early-2016. This changes colour after


two minutes while brushing, encouraging users

rinses reducing by

to brush for an optimum length of time. •

2015/16 brand market share based on retail value RSP Source: Euromonitor International



Colgate-Palmolive is projected to gain from


Dedicated to oral care with Furdentyl

The Furdentyl range from Isaltis consists of high performance multifunctional ingredients for oral care products. These mineral salts provide physiological and functional benefits in toothpaste, mouthwash and chewing gum products. Isaltis products are available in South Africa from CJP Chemicals. urdentyl (Calcium Glycerophosphate) provides enamel protection and is a cariostatic agent. It is a source of calcium and phosphorus, which are two essential components of teeth. Calcium glycerophosphate can replace fluoride, is GRAS approved and one of the most soluble calcium salts. Several clinical studies have shown that toothpastes containing calcium glycerophosphate have a similarly effective anti-caries component. Furdentyl is a pure, white powder that is tasteless and odourless in a finished product. It offers enamel protection benefits and acts as cariostatic agent. Its buffering power helps prevent acidic attacks and provides for more mineralised teeth.

PREVENT TARTAR AND GINGIVITIS The zinc variants in the Furdentyl range – Furdentyl ZnC (Zinc Citrate), Furdentyl ZnG (Zinc Gluconate) and Furdentyl ZnL (Zinc Lactate) – are best suited in toothpastes positioned at preventing tartar and gingivitis. Zinc has anti-microbial and antiinflammatory effects as well as the ability to reduce or inhibit the formation of dental plaque and tartar. Zinc salts control bad breath through their anti-microbial action

NEW LAUNCHES IN THE FURDENTYL RANGE OF MINERAL SALTS: • Furdentyl KOx (Potassium Oxalate) • Furdentyl ZnP (Zinc Phosphate) • Furdentyl SF (Stannous Fluoride)

and the neutralisation of volatile sulphur compounds responsible for malodour. The clinical efficacy of a two percent zinc citrate formulation has previously been demonstrated in a six-month study to reduce plaque and gingivitis. More recently, the antimicrobial efficacy of a one percent zinc citrate formulation has been discussed. A toothpaste containing two percent zinc citrate/0.3 percent triclosan significantly reduced the total acid produced (by bacteria) for at least three hours after product use. It has also been demonstrated that this effect is detectable even after eating. Zinc citrate is popular in toothpaste, while zinc lactate is found frequently in mouthwash products.

dentinal hypersensitivity. It blocks the synapse between nerve cells, which reduces nerve excitation. It also blocks the tubules, reducing the flow of fluid into them. Strontium salts work by precipitation of strontium, depositing fine particles of insoluble strontium compounds on dentine surfaces and within the dentine tubules. Potassium oxalate involves two mechanisms, offering short and long term effects. It depolarises the nerve endings and precipitates in the dentinal tubules. Zinc phosphate is an essential compound of dental cements, and is commonly used for the cementation of inlays, crowns, bridges, and orthodontic appliances. Zinc phosphate can also be used in toothpastes.

TREAT DENTIN HYPERSENSITIVITY Furdentyl KOx (Potassium Oxalate), Furdentyl NIK (Potassium Nitrate), Furdentyl SrA (Strontium Acetate), Furdentyl SrC (Strontium Chloride), Furdentyl ZnP (Zinc Phosphate) are ideal for addressing dental pain. Several studies have reported the efficacy of potassium nitrate for managing

Driving Innovation and Excellence CJP Chemicals +27 11 494 6700





the fizz Pharma and CAMs brand owners in South Africa are investing in effervescent formulations in response to consumer demand for easy-to-use, over-the-counter (OTC) product formats. With Effer-Soda, Brenntag South Africa offers a novel solution to overcome the manufacturing challenges associated with fizzy tablets and powders.


ffer-Soda is a highly stable, surface modified sodium bicarbonate powder developed for use in pharmaceutical and nutraceutical

to customers’ industry sectors and leveraging on the expertise and skills of the former individual companies. This ensures the business is strategically and operationally better positioned to realise growth. Bringing the individual companies together has allowed for the development of a customercentric approach, aided by dedicated product management; strengthened departments for safety, quality and regulatory affairs and more streamlined and efficient operations functions.’

Total protection Sodium bicarbonate is a primary ingredient in effervescent tablets and powders. Together with an acid, such as citric or tartaric acid, sodium bicarbonate reacts in the presence of water to produce CO 2. Consequently, the major disadvantage of sodium bicarbonate is that in the presence

applications. By removing trial and error, it

of minute amounts of moisture and acid, it

addresses the challenges formulators face when

immediately effervesces. This reactivity can

working with effervescent applications. Effer-Soda is produced by US-based SPI Pharma, which is represented locally by Brenntag South Africa. This local company was launched on 1 October when Brenntag, the global market leader in chemical distribution, acquired Lionheart, Plastichem, Multilube and Warren Chem Specialities. The new business brings together chemical distribution and services in

Effer-Soda is ideal for direct compression and sachet formulations

life science (pharmaceutical, personal care, Michael Thomson

food and nutrition), material science (plastics,

lead to formulation instability and premature

rubbers, polymers and lubricants) and industrial

effervescence during storage.

sales and services. Michael Thomson, president of Brenntag

Additional processing steps are also required to pre-dry the powder along with special

Africa, comments: ‘Brenntag South Africa has a

equipment and processing conditions during

focused commercial set-up, specifically tailored

manufacture to avoid premature effervescence. Yet these issues can be resolved using Effer-Soda, which provides enhanced stability to effervescent


formulations. This is achieved by converting the appropriate amount of sodium bicarbonate to sodium carbonate. The converted medium acts as a desiccant skin, preventing premature

• It is manufactured in a dedicated pharmaceutical facility under cGMP guidelines.

effervescence. While a physical mixture of

• This free flowing highly stable powder is directly compressible.

sodium carbonate and sodium bicarbonate

• It improves finished product stability by eliminating premature effervescence.

cannot achieve these results, with Effer-Soda you

• It provides rapid effervescence when desired in the presence of large amounts of water.

get total formulation protection

• It reduces the need for a humidity controlled manufacturing environment. • By eliminating the need to pre-dry effervescent powder, it decreases manufacturing steps.

A long list of benefits

• It is supported by SPI Pharma’s global team of technical experts.

Effer-Soda is ideal for direct compression and sachet formulations. It has better compaction




ability, allowing for less binder, resulting in an exceptional effervescent tablet. With a superior Carr’s Index, Effer-Soda has excellent flow when compared to sodium bicarbonate. This powder product also supports brand owners’ needs for finished product differentiation with a variety of packaging options. When using sodium bicarbonate, the formulation needs to be packed in a tube pack with a desiccant. However, an effervescent formulation incorporating EfferSoda can be used in strip, blister and sachet packaging options, helping the brand owner differentiate its product in the market. Beyond its uses in effervescent tablets and sachets, Effer-Soda can provide effervescence within a chewable or fast disintegrating system to improve organoleptics and taste profile. With products such as Effer-Soda, Brenntag South Africa plans on becoming a leading chemical distributor in Africa’s pharmaceutical industry. ‘Within a few years, we have established a strong local footprint in South Africa, Maghreb

With the ability to now offer more chemical solutions to our customers, Brenntag South Africa will continue to expand its footprint within the industry. ‘East Africa and Egypt are likely to be our next steps,’ he concludes. •

Brenntag South Africa has extensive warehousing to store and distribute products for the pharmaceutical and various other industries it serves

(Algeria, Morocco and Tunisia), Mauritius, Ghana and Nigeria. Together with Brenntag Exports, we are already able to serve all African markets,’ Thomson adds.

Brenntag South Africa – SPI Pharma –

Sartorius_Secura_Jan17:Layout 1 2017/01/30 7:56 AM Page 1

We are Sartorius in South Africa 011 315 5444




Revised standards to improve medicinal product description ‘The revision has become necessary because of the development of IDMP implementation guides, which take the form of four CEN1 ISO technical specifications. The overall standard has not really changed but rather gained in usability for implementers. By developing implementation guides, it has been possible to shift some detailed information from the standard itself to its corresponding implementation guide,’ Hay comments. ‘By publishing the ISO IDMP standards in 2012, the community has been able to

A series of Identification of Medicinal Products (IDMP) standards are under revision and will bring about a host of benefits to patients and the global health care community.


understand a potential fundamental change in each respective data model – which are currently very diverse. Having learned from users’ reactions, the IDMP project leaders have initiated an ambitious standards development programme, which consists

mplementing these standards should

of working on implementation guides. Now,

Christian Hay, senior health care

one can expect the creation of educational

simplify the exchange of information

consultant for the GS1 global office,

between stakeholders and enhance

explains: ‘IDMP standards are

material and a uniform

the interoperability of systems in the

essential for the world’s

implementation both on the

increasingly integrated

part of the manufacturer and

health care. They provide

the regulator. In parallel, IDMP

specifications, comprising ISO 11616, ISO

the precise architecture

provides a basis for existing

11615, ISO/DIS 11238, ISO/TS 20451, ISO/

for the computerisation of

or new IT solutions, such as

TS 20443 and ISO/TS 19844, support the

information on medicinal

prescriptions, medication

activities of medicines agencies worldwide.

products all around the

reports, medicinal product

These cover a variety of regulatory activities

world. When regulators

dictionaries for clinical use,

related to the development, registration

adopt IDMP, their capacity

and more.’

and life-cycle management of medicinal

to interoperate with each

medical field. IDMP standards and technical

Using ISO IDMP within

products, as well as pharmacovigilance and

other makes for safer patient

regulatory activities brings

risk management.

care. This is, for example, a

benefits to regulators,

ISO IDMP standards cover the following aspects to describe a medicinal product:

reporting and documenting medication in patient records.’

Christian Hay is also the convener of working group six, pharmacy and medicines business, of the ISO technical committee ISO/TC 215 for health informatics

industry and, ultimately, patients. ‘The trend towards global standards continues to increase. I cannot imagine

• i ngredient substances

Beneficial to regulators, industry and patients

• pharmaceutical product (route of

To meet the primary objectives of

Without IDMP, the existing information

the regulation of medicines and

fragmentation by country or region would

• marketing authorisation

pharmacovigilance, the reliable exchange

cause increasing risks to patients globally

• clinical particulars

of medicinal product information in a

– not only those who travel, but also those

robust and consistent manner is essential.

faced with mobile health or because

IDMP standards fully support this, which is

of the globalisation of supply chains,’

why their revision was deemed opportune.

Hay concludes. •

• medicinal product name

administration and strength)

• packaging • manufacturing.


huge benefit for adverse-event


the world without IDMP, whose implementation programme is going to last several years.

FlowLac® 90. Performance-optimized, versatile, efficient. From Meggle.

GMP/GDP certified

FlowLac® 90 meets all applicable requirements for spray-dried lactose and enables even formulations with high active content. The benefits speak for themselves. And for FlowLac® 90:

– Ideal for troubleshooting – Outstanding flowability – Extraordinary compaction profile – Fast tablet disintegration – Low fines, practically dust-free FlowLac® 90 from MEGGLE: A superior solution for demanding applications.

HEAD OFFICE GERMANY: Phone +49 8071 73 476

AMCHEM PTY. LTD. Pretoria, South Africa Phone +27 (0)12 686 7082


New omega-3 powder for dietary supplements Evonik has launched AvailOm, a high concentration omega-3 lysine complex that exhibits excellent bioavailability and stability.


eemed by Evonik as the

protect their contents

highest load omega-3

against aggressive

powder with a minimum

gastric acid. This can

of 45 percent EPA and

lead to the unpleasant

DHA by weight, AvailOm is designed

fishy reflux characteristic

to reduce the number of daily

of many omega

dosage forms. Dr Ludger Eilers,


who is responsible for advanced

currently on

food ingredients within Evonik’s

the market.

health care business line, explains:

In contrast,

‘With AvailOm, EPA and DHA are

AvailOm powder

absorbed as free fatty acids; there is

can be efficiently compressed into

no need for enzymatic conversion.

compact tablets that are easy to

The bioavailability of our product is

swallow. Fishy reflux can be prevented

therefore three to five times higher

by combining one of Evonik’s

than traditional fish oil capsules

Eudraguard polymer coatings.

containing liquid omega-3 ethyl esters.’ Conventional soft gel capsules are expensive to produce, yet they do little to

A single, small tablet made


from AvailOm offers the equivalent omega-3 fatty acid dosage

The global omega-3 supplements of two large fish market is expected to reach oil capsules. As USD 57.07 billion by 2025. This significant a result, it is a growth is likely to be attributed to urbanisation and government efforts to educate consumers convenient way and provide superior health care services. to meet global In addition, increased consumer willingness health care to spend more on health supplements is recommendations anticipated to provide a positive outlook of several hundred for the omega-3 supplements milligrams of EPA and market. Source: Research and Markets DHA per day.

Used alone or in combination The fish oil raw material used to create the high-quality omega-3 lysine complex is sourced from carefully selected suppliers while AvailOm is manufactured in Europe to high quality standards. The powder has proved to be extremely stable and easy to process in all tests. In addition to being cleared for sale in the USA (both NDI and GRAS), Evonik is pursuing registration in Europe and other markets. It is suitable for use as a standalone omega-3 tablet or capsule, or in combination with other ingredients,



AvailOm powder can be efficiently compressed into compact tablets that are easy to swallow such as vitamins, to produce a variety of consumer-friendly, solid and powder dietary supplements. With the launch of AvailOm, Evonik continues to expand its portfolio of advanced food ingredients, which is one of six innovation growth fields where the enterprise is focusing its efforts. The portfolio includes naturally occurring ingredients with scientifically proven health benefits, as well as nutraceutical coating technologies that help ensure the health ingredients are released in the human body at the right time and location. Evonik showcased AvailOm, as well as its other products and formulation development services, at SupplySide West, which took place in Las Vegas, USA, from 25 to 29 September. More than 15 000 visitors attend the show, making it one of the most important annual events for buyers and suppliers in the global nutraceuticals market. •

Evonik –


November/December 2017 | Volume 43 | Number 11

Technology to create the perfect cavity for blister packsÂ

Omron innovates for modern manufacturing


Minimal input with maximum function RAW MATERIALS USED for packaging must not only be manufactured in line with good environmental practices, but also comprise several first rate properties to be considered suitable. By selecting materials with the correct properties, companies can minimise usage during the converting process while maximising ecoefficiency for the duration of the packaging’s life cycle. Manufacturers have been under pressure to


closed loop processes BOBST IS INTRODUCING a new version of its DigiMount fully

implement the ‘less is more’ approach by factoring a

automated flexo plate mounting

sustainable selection of materials into their packaging

system. The latest Smart DigiMount

production processes. This has been driven by consumer

improves efficiency on narrow and

demand for environmentally friendly buying behaviours.

mid-web inline flexo presses, multi-

Companies serious about corporate social responsibility

process printing and converting lines

and caring for the planet have an advantage.

that make use of sleeve technology.

The recent Nielsen Global Survey on Corporate Social

The Bobst Smart DigiMount

The system features advanced

has revolutionised the way inline flexo

Responsibility saw a poll distributed among 30 000

electronics for improved speed and

presses for labels and packaging

shoppers across 60 countries. Responses indicated

accuracy of plate mounting. It handles

work by making all press operations

the majority would pay more for products and services

sleeve repeats of 254 to 812.8mm and

fully digitally checked, adjusted

provided by companies that are committed to positive

optionally, 1 066.8mm. This extends its

and controlled.

social change and minimal environmental impact.

capabilities to accommodate larger

The numbers have since increased enormously.

web widths and formats. A new feature

DigiMount flexo plate mounter with a

This is evident in a recent Unilever study, which

is an enclosure to exclude ambient

digital assisted operation was launched

says that out of 20 000 consumers, a third

light, helping the positioning system to

in 2015. The market has since become

have followed suit. Sustainable raw materials

operate consistently in any environment.

familiar with the Digital Automation

are highlighted in this edition of PACKAGING

The original DigiMount version is still

programme, comprising the digital

REVIEW. Don’t miss the article on page 46.

available to suit print cylinder repeats of

flexo technology and the REVO seven-

139.7 to 609.6mm.

colour extended colour gamut process.

Until next month, Assistant Editor

The company has worked to eliminate

As part of the project, the first

This automatically manages the whole

workflow issues arising from inaccurate

printing and converting workflow

plate mounting since the early days

from validation of the artwork to the

of the digital automation project. This

final product.

Machine developments for powders THE LATEST ADDITION in Bosch Packaging Technology’s

While the vials are continuously fed into the

AFG series, is the AFG 5000. This filling and closing

machine, the transport system adjusts the speed

machine for pharmaceutical powders in glass vials offer

of the following processes to precisely match the

manufacturers a wide range of options. The introduction

rhythm of the individual workstations.

of the technology to the range was part of a recent exclusive machine presentation in Crailsheim, Germany. ‘During development, our main focus was on flexibility,’ adds Dieter Bandtel, product manager at

‘Our customers’ powder filling takes place in class B cleanrooms, where every centimetre counts in terms of operating, maintenance and cleaning costs.’ All components that come into contact with the

Bosch Packaging Technology. ‘With the new machine,

product can easily be disassembled for cleaning and

customers can choose between several different versions

sterilisation. The result is an easy to use machine with

and various features. We’ve also significantly increased

only few format parts. This offers substantial space

the output rate in the high-performance segment.’

and cost savings.

Based on a single machine platform, the system can

In line with the company’s pharmaceutical line

accurately fill both large and small amounts of powder.

competence, the AFG 5000 can be combined

Customers have the choice between one filling point for

with upstream cleaning machines and sterilising

an output of 160 containers per minute through to three

tunnels. It can also be united with downstream

filling points for up to 480 vials per minute.

capping equipment to create a complete

To optimise efficiency, a new flexible transport system was developed for the technology.


line for safe and reliable filling processes for pharmaceutical powders.

| NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2017 | Packaging Review

Bosch experts explain the advantages of the new AFG 5000 during an exclusive machine presentation



for modern manufacturing OMRON CORPORATION RECENTLY announced the global release of its new CK3E and PC Platform NY5-A IPC programmable multi-axis controllers. The company and its Delta Tau Data Systems (DT) worked together to develop the PMAC controllers with global leading motion control technology. PMAC achieves sophisticated fine tuning control, which includes high speed synchronous control of various factory automation devices. This is owing to its built-in EtherCAT connectivity, used for production lines and equipment all over the world. Its development environment allows users to programme their own motion algorithms and motion control functions, such as trajectory calculation and position compensation in original programming languages. The current trend is to aim for innovative manufacturing in order to satisfy consumers’ diverse needs and deal with short product life cycles. Builders of semiconductor manufacturing equipment and machining tools are concentrating resources on the development of innovative and competitive core technology. In these circumstances, machine builders increasingly

Plasticomp joins SAVA MATERIAL RECYCLER, PLASTICOMP has become the latest SMME to join the Southern African Vinyls Association (SAVA). The company successfully satisfied the criteria for membership. It has been accredited not only as a member but also a signatory to the association’s Product Stewardship Commitment (PSC). ‘We are thrilled to welcome the company to the SAVA family. As a recycler of rigid PVC (PVC-U), Plasticomp has successfully demonstrated that it supports our commitment to increase the recycling rates of PVC in South Africa and adherence to the principle of extended producer responsibility regarding end-of-life material,’ says SAVA CEO, Delanie Bezuidenhout. The Boksburg-based recycler started its operations in September 2006 providing toll pulverising services to the PVC-U pipe and conduit customers for their own start-up scrap. It has grown significantly and now provides toll services to the LLDPE (roto moulding market), pigments and masterbatch manufacturers in both virgin and recycled materials. ‘We read about SAVA and the amazing work the association does in trade publications. We identified great potential for working with the association’s members and decided joining its ranks would signal a clear message about our company’s own commitment to sustainable and ethical practices,’ adds Anton Tjabring, managing member of Plasticomp.

Anton Tjabring

require globally available controllers with guaranteed quality and stable long-term supply. Manufacturers that develop manufacturing

The six colour 37-inch offset printing press with in-line coater

equipment with robots expect robust and reliable controllers able to execute customised motion control. Omron offers two types of PMAC programmable multi-axis controllers to meet users’ needs. The company brings innovation to manufacturing sites through automation with integrated, intelligent and interactive concepts. It is working on manufacturing innovation with manufacturers by combining its in-house technologies with leading global DT’s motion control technologies to realise new integrated automation. The CK3E Programmable Multi-Axis Controller and the NY51-A Industrial PC Platform NYseries, IPC MultiAxis Controler



by handling paper thicknesses of 0.8mm. It is

37-inch offset printing press lineup for the

available in six or seven colours with in-line coater

packaging printing market. The Lithrone G37

configurations for the high added value work required

is a compact press that can produce A1 size

for packaging printing. The 15 000 sheets per hour

products. It is described as the epitome of

maximum printing speed (13 000 on seven colour

cutting-edge technologies.

machines), enables stable quality and prevents

The technology, which has gained

printing problems. These technologies promote

popularity in expanding sales performance,

stable operations. In addition, the Lithrone G37 is

was showcased at drupa 2016 in Düsseldorf,

a space saving and optimised cost-performance

Germany and China Print 2017 in Beijing.

strategic machine, which will contribute to enhanced

The system addresses market demands

customer income.

Packaging Review | NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2017 |



SAFE, SUSTAINABLE unit dose packaging

The need for greater dose control in the pharma industry continues to drive developments in how medicines are packaged. Blister packaging machinery producer, O.M.A.R, represented throughout southern Africa by MGSA Consulting (MGSA), is trusted by pharmaceutical producers worldwide to provide quality solutions.


.M.A.R has just augmented


its portfolio of blister strip

O.M.A.R’s BF 50 HT is designed to

technologies with the new

produce blisters for various medical

BF 35 machine. The BF 35 is equipped

supplies. These include sachets,

with work balcony stations specifically

ampoules, vials, bottles and sterols

designed for clinical trials and medium

containing liquid substances or

batches of production. This fully automatic

preparations in solid dosage forms.

system produces single dose blisters

It also extends to pharmacological

at a maximum size of 100mm x 35mm.

dietary products intended for

It is an ideal solution for producers

oral administration.

requiring packaging solutions for dietary,

This automatic machine with variable

nutraceutical or pharmaceutical oral solid

pitch can mould both aluminium foil

dosage forms. The technology features

and plastic up to 400 microns thick.

compact dimensions and with its one

Coatings can be made of aluminium

format change, it is capable of producing

foil, medical paper, films and other

blisters to package vials and ampoules. It

permitted materials of different

can also produce blisters to pack liquids

natures and thicknesses.

and guarantees maximum precision of dosages. The BF 35 produces high quality blisters from pre-cut foils. These blisters can be produced in plastic, aluminium and other

The BF 50 achieves maximum blister sizes of 180mm x 100mm with a depth of up to 27mm. The system’s servo

material coverings. All blisters can be

machine includes

coded with labels on the back section or

electronics using

directly on lidding materials. One major

a programmable

benefit is the machine dimensions of

logic controller.

2 110mm x 720mm x 200mm and has a weight of 550kg. The BF 35 is equipped with a label printer that prints online

Good pharmaceutical performance is guaranteed with the BF 50 Plus

equitable blistering. Its design has been optimised in collaboration with


globally active pharmaceutical companies. All setup format changes and operations

Blister films need to reach a temperature of 160°C for drawing. So, on O.M.A.R’s BF 50 Plus, temperaturecontrolled PVC blister material is deepdrawn in the forming station. PVC blisters can be thermoformed to a depth of up to 13mm in the moulding station, while Alu blisters can be formed to a depth of up to 10mm.

The BF 50 Plus is the new, upgraded version of the BF 50 HT.

have been made as simple as possible to ensure error-free operations while product-contacting parts have been reduced to a minimum. The BF 50 Plus comprises

different product feeders, which include but are not limited

It is a more advanced machine that

to manual feeding tables, universal

has been described as a system that

brush applicators for capsules as well as

will capture the small laboratory

liquid dispensers. These can be installed

packaging market. This compact, multifunctional version includes

modularly on the machine. All operating and configuration inputs

all the features of the BF 50 but has

are carried out via the touchscreen

more capacity for production control

PLC control. The entries are made in

and produces a maximum of 150mm x 100mm blisters with a maximum pocket depth of 20mm. It is ideal for producing

plain text and can be displayed in five different languages. The BF 50 machine’s dimensions are 2

blisters in PVC Alu or Alu-Alu and can

450mm x 1 000mm x 1 790mm while its

deliver up to 3 600 blisters an hour.

weight is 850kg. •

The entire machine is mounted on four rubber billets and can be used flexibly. The technology meets all the requirements and guidelines of GMP


| NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2017 | Packaging Review

MGSA Consulting – O.M.A.R –


We proudly introduce our complete range of structural, technological and product innovations in the world of blister packaging.

EXCLUSIVE AGENT FOR MARCHESINI GROUP MG SA CONSULTING PTY LTD. Unit 10 Coldstream Office Park, Coldstream Road - 1724 Little Falls, Roodepoort (Gauteng) - SOUTH AFRICA


Spotlighting developments of the future Raw materials are the foundation of finished pharmaceutical and cosmetics packaging. As such, they must meet regulatory requirements, which include safety and legal specifications. They must also contribute to the functionality and quality of packs. By Aarifah Nosarka

The Healthcare & Pharmaceuticals category winner at the European Carton excellence awards

to help optimise packaging to be more sustainable and convenient. The new


n the past, companies relied on R&D

efficient packaging. The company

SkinCare carton structures offer a 20

procedures when selecting the most

presented its innovative packaging

to 30 percent weight reduction when

suitable raw material for a pack. These

solutions in support of its ‘better with less’

compared to traditional cartons,’

processes were based on functionality.

concept with the new, improved SkinCare

Drouet adds.

Owing to increasing developments in

gift box. This highlights its aim to improve

materials and regulations, an expert

the consumer experience and make

team along with R&D is required to assess

packaging even more sustainable.

whether certain materials are perfectly

‘Our target for the new and improved

suited to different products. As such, these

cartons was to keep all the appreciated

include identifying characteristics of the

benefits such as lightweight materials,

finished product, types of resins required,

an elimination of the plastic wrap and

product safety characteristics and more.

the unique opening experience for each

A new development in the global

Ultradur Barrier provides an unmatched barrier quality in single layer injection moulding

box. In addition, the new cartons are The company’s paperboards were used

packaging arena from Metsä Board

designed to be easier to run on packing

is its unified service portfolio recently

lines as well as adding the possibility to

by three separate category winners at the

showcased at Luxepack Monaco.

reclose each box after opening,’ says Cyril

2017 European Carton excellence awards

This consists of premium paperboards

Drouet, design and innovation director at

held during September in Austria. One of

and related services, which focus on

Metsä Board.

the company’s to scoop an award in the

contributing to sustainable, safe and

These cartons use both the company’s folding boxboards and microflute

A new and improved SkinCare gift box

structures made of its white kraftliners. Folding boxboards, made from fresh

was Ventofor-Combi Pack. ‘We are delighted that our products have been an integral part of the winning

fibres are lightweight and sustainable.

packs. This demonstrates the important

Their excellent performance ensures they

part that packaging plays in creating

are suitable for all types of applications

maximum shelf-impact and can help

and end-uses. The cartons inner tray and

differentiate a brand from its competition.

outer packaging, made from moulded

Sustainability too, should be an integral

fresh fibre pulp clearly demonstrates how

part of the packaging design, so the

plastic can be replaced with sustainable

packaging is not only made of sustainable materials but is also lightweight, right-

fibre materials. ‘Our objective is to

products helped achieve these goals,’


says Mika Paljakka, Metsä Board’s VP of sales for EMEA.


Metsä Board’s products are available in

and use of

South Africa from Durban-based company,

our materials

| NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2017 | Packaging Review

sized, functional and easy to recycle. Our

explore innovative


Healthcare & Pharmaceuticals category

Paper Force.


solution and give shape to their varied design dreams,’ explains Maria Carcolé,

DuPont recently

EMEA marketing leader of perfumes and

launched two

cosmetics at DuPont.

further extends the company’s offering

KEEPING OXYGEN OUT AND QUALITY IN Only three years after introducing the

to perfume and

first polybutylene terephthalate (PBT)

cosmetics brands. Personalisation,

grade, BASF expands its product line of

functionality and uniqueness are key

PBTs with a new material, the Ultradur

consumer trends in perfumery and

Barrier. Launched last month at Fakuma

cosmetics. It is therefore essential

2017 in Friedrichshafen, the product

for manufacturers and brands to be

offers multiple advantages compared to

able to innovate and differentiate

existing solutions.

their packaging. New designs have

It combines excellent barrier

to be attractive and functional, while

properties against water vapour, mineral

variations and flankers of existing

oil and more. Its chemical resistance

lines reflect the latest trends and

against hydrocarbons makes the

seasons. This demands agility and

product attractive for the cosmetics

versatile materials that can unlock

industry. As it is a single-layer solution,

the creativity and inspiration of

it needs no additional coating or

designers, while ensuring fast and

secondary packaging.

efficient processing. This is why the

For the company, innovation is the

DuPont Surlyn range continues to be an

key to successfully standing out in

essential component of innovation with

a challenging market environment.

the launch of two new grades: Surlyn

Experts therefore developed a material

PC 3000 and Surlyn PC 500.

to minimise oxygen transmission even

Wider than ever, the Surlyn palette now encompasses six different

further, which resulted in Ultradur

aesthetic properties. The resin’s versatility offers an inexhaustible source of inspiration for designers and brands, allowing the most innovative creations to be

of parts, with a best-in-class surface quality in one-shot injection moulding applications. •S  urlyn PC 500 is the preferred solution for opaque, coloured and metallised finishes on standard caps, flankers or new creations.

Different independent test results have all shown the same, that is, Oxygen Transmission Rate (OTR) values are below the limit of quantitation according to ISO 15105-2/DIN 53380-3 test standards. The name ‘barrier’ reflects the outstanding test scores, where the OTR value measured below 0.10 (measured on one millimetre plaque samples). ‘Ultradur Barrier provides an unmatched barrier quality in single layer injection moulding, even exceeding multilayer PP/ EVOH/PP solutions,’ says Simon Kniesel, product development engineering plastics at BASF. •

Barrier. It is based on an entirely new

grades, each with unique technical, sensory and

•S  urlyn PC 3000 offers the purest transparency, even for the thickest

new Surlyn grades for caps, which

Dupont’s extended grades

approach to improve oxygen barrier


properties for injection-moulded thin-wall parts compliant with FC regulations (EU10/2011).

BASF – DuPont – Metsä Board –

DuPont’s Surlyn range was adopted by the industry more than 30 years ago.

realised through an easy, fast and effective process using one single mould for all variations. The use of this material allows for many different decoration techniques. These include lacquering, hot stamping, silkscreen and pad printing for coloured, varnished, metallic or even glitter finishes. According to DuPont, this ionomer resin is well known for its use in over-moulding textiles or materials and encapsulating objects, hence its protecting and beautifying functionality for optimum effects. ‘Using Surlyn makes it possible to support a product well beyond its launch, giving brands the space for constant reinterpretation, while retaining the very essence and identity of the product. Our technical and commercial team works closely with brands and moulders to help them choose the best

Packaging Review | NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2017 |



Coschem prioritises household products and hair care Throughout the year, the Society of Cosmetic Chemists (Coschem) hosts valuable networking events and workshops focused on skills development. Its most recent include a household formulation practical workshop and hair care supplier afternoon.



costs were involved in exhibiting. Exhibitors included

6 October. Member companies of the association,

Botanichem, BRB Silicones, Carst & Walker, Chempure,

which supply hair care ingredients and raw materials

Chemgrit, Crest Chemicals, IMCD South Africa, Materia

were invited to take part in the suppliers’ day; no

Medica, Orkila South Africa and The Care Co.

COSCHEM HOSTED ITS inaugural household formulation practical workshop on 29 September to support its members on the technical ins and outs of formulating standard home care products. Gillian Kuhn from Evonik Africa and Liezanne van der Walt, a consultant to Juniper Cosmetics shared their knowledge on how to develop products such as dishwashing liquid, washing powder, fabric softener and thick bleach technology. The workshop was well attended by young minds, who were keen to learn about the home care side of the industry. A vast amount of practical tips were shared such as the temperature at which a fabric softener should be manufactured and how to avoid separation caused by cold weather in a dishwashing liquid formulation. Kuhn and Van der Walt hope to make this a repeat event for those who missed the first workshop and agreed it was really a ‘pleasure to share practical knowledge about a very important industry segment that does not receive the recognition it deserves in today’s world’.




HIGHLIGHTS from the AMA golf day T

he South African Aerosol Manufacturers’ Association (AMA)



hosted its annual golf day on 4

October at the Glendower Golf Club in Johannesburg. This championship course is rated number one in Gauteng and 12 th best in South Africa by Golf Digest. A total of 17 teams took part in the golf day. The winning four ball was Clarke Colours with Prime Product coming in second and Synrita third. Sponsorships for this year’s event came from a variety of companies including P C Review, Prime Product, Afrox,



Spraymate, Puregas, NCP Alcohols, Nampak DivFood, Metcan, Liquitel, Q20, Khaya International Packaging, Precision and Gas Piping Services. After a unanimous decision from the sponsors, the 2018 AMA golf day will return to Glendower Golf Club on 19 September. Send an e-mail to execdir@ for more information about the 2018 event. • 1

The Clarke Colours four ball


The Prime Product four ball with Carla Melless


The Synrita four ball


S haun Ferriera, winner of the longest drive on the 18th hole, with Natalie da Silva, publishing manager of P C Review


The Symrise four ball with Carla Melless


M ary Harris, winner of the longest drive on the third hole, with Natalie da Silva


S ales consultants Anita Raath and Carla Melless at the AMA golf day registration desk hosted by P C Review






Tea time TO ADVERTISE IN Anita Raath Sales executive

+27 (0)82 976 6541

Carla Melless Sales executive

+27 (0)83 260 6060

Candida Giambo-Kruger Sales executive

+27 (0)71 438 1918

Dogs Word Search Find and circle all the words hidden within the grid. The remaining 44 letters spell an Ogden Nash quotation.











































Moco Packaging...................................



Cosmetic Export Council

Crest Chemicals......................................



Hersol Manufacturing Laboratories.......






Supplier of cosmetic and personal care ingredients.

Visitors to the Society of

Ingredients include; Bioferments, Botanical Extracts, Delivery

Cosmetic Chemists’ website will

Systems, Enzymes, Functional Actives, Silicones, Emollients,

find information on membership,

Emulsifiers, Meadowfoam Seed Oil & Derivatives, Abyssinian and

educational programmes

other Oils, Shea and other Butters, Aliphatic Hydrocarbons, Lanolin

(specific details pertaining to the

& Derivatives

Cosmetic Science Diploma), as well as the society’s objectives

Tel: 010 595 9690 Email:

of promoting professionalism and higher technical skills in the cosmetics and toiletries industries.

COSMETIC INGREDIENTS Ingredients include: African oils I Hyaluronic acid I Treated pigments I Treated inorganic sunscreens I Encapsulated organic sunscreens I Plant

Glass distributors & importers of specialist glass bottles and

and animal proteins and specialised protein derivatives I Brown

closures. We are official distributors for Consol Glass. Dalgen is

seaweed I Natural actives and rheology modifiers I Anti-dandruff

your one stop packaging shop, specialising in pharmaceutical &

agents I Concentrates

cosmetic containers. We are able to service all areas in Africa.

Tel +27 (0)31 569 4288 Fax +27 (0)31 569 4294 Email or



For over 40 years Formpak has supplied specialised processing,

Novopak is a plastic packaging

packaging and printing machinery to the pharmaceutical,

company that specializes in

cosmetic, plastic, glass, chemical, food and dairy industries.

manufacturing a complete range

Tel +27 (0)11 828 8870/1/2 Fax +27 (0)11 828 8880 Email or

of cosmetic and pharmaceutical tubes, including printing, hot foiling and various caps. We also manufacture Bottles and Jars.

Tel +27 (0)11 865 5632 Email



Look Good Feel Better, a global cosmetic industry programme

Your No. 1 industry leader

offers support to cancer patients focusing on emotional and social

for the most comprehensive

needs and well being.

ranges of both synthetic and

At 2 hour interactive workshops held in oncology units across

natural colours – used in food,

SA, cosmetics are used as tools

pharmaceutical, cosmetic and

to address visible side effects of

industrial applications.

treatment to assist patients to

Tablet coatings – manufactured,

restore self-esteem and face the

supplied and marketed globally

world with confidence.

under our trade name PHARMASPEC™ - FC

Moco Packaging is well established as one of the largest stockists of specialised cosmetic and pharmaceutical packaging in South Africa. The extensive range of high-quality plastic and glass containers and accessories is obtained from local and international sources. Our own moulds enable us to satisfy almost all packaging requirements at excellent prices. Printing and frosting facilities are available. Keeping up to date with modern technology ensures that we procure a variety of new packaging items and components.

Tel: (011) 624-3493/4 | Fax: (011) 618-3622 Email: | 18 Auret Street Jeppestown 2094 | P.O. Box 15773 Doornfontein 2028

Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review Nov/Dec 2017  

In this edition, we explore the enigmatic realm of fragrances with global industry expert, Michael Edwards. The winners of the 2017 New Prod...

Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review Nov/Dec 2017  

In this edition, we explore the enigmatic realm of fragrances with global industry expert, Michael Edwards. The winners of the 2017 New Prod...