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June 2017 | Volume 44 | Number 6

Actifcol advanced botanical ingredient for a glamorous décolleté

Formulation ingredients to encourage innovation What it means to be green in 2017 The next dimension in male grooming

BRUNATIONAL COSMETIC & SKINCARE MANUFACTURERS One of the most respected, innovative contract manufacturing Companies in Gauteng, established in 2001 and a proud ISO9001 accredited Company since 2005 recognised both locally and internationally in the cosmetics and toiletries market. The manufacturing plant is based in Edenvale, along with Factory Shops in Edenvale and Ballito. Manufacturing for clients under their private labels, anything from head to toe from 10kgs and upwards, guiding clients on latest market trends, products and where to go for packaging and components. Manufacture, pack and label or supplying products in bulk, we strive to cater for all requirements ensuring high quality, value and excellent customer service. In todays World, we find more and more Men caring and catering for their grooming needs. Due to the exponential increase in damage caused by free radicals our skin are confronted with daily it has become a necessity in order to slow down the effects of ageing and more men want to look and feel good. Along with grooming products such as beard oils/products, hair gels/ shampoo, aftershave balms and

cologne, men are more aware of products in the market to enhance their looks and increase self confidence. We are a focused, committed, dynamic and service driven Company full of team players that ensure high levels of customer service excellence. A mutual partnership and friendship develops between ourselves and our customers resulting in us always referring to our customers as part of the family. Brunational Cosmetic & Skincare Manufacturers - Catering for all your cosmetic and skincare requirements……….Turning your ideas into profit

12 Bundo Road , Sebenza, Edenvale Tel: + 27 11 609 4066 e-Mail:



June 2017 | Volume 44 | Number 6

w w za


NEWS Meggle introduces micronised inhaler excipient New ISO standard for Pharmaceutical Enterprises Bringing the beauty of cosmetics to cancer patients



natural choice

11 PRODUCT NEWS What’s new in South Africa


for healthy skin and hair

Savannah introduces Actifcol from Lipotec Baobab oil a natural choice for hair and skin A strong case for African botanicals Rooibos research gets a massive cash injection Scratching the science of itching


Kitchen-inspired health care ingredients Vitamin E with the lowest proven carbon footprint

26 PHARMACEUTICAL FOCUS: TABLETTING & ENCAPSULATION How to increase tablet output with multi-tip tooling A look inside Adock Ingram’s Wadeville facility

30 SUSTAINABILITY PRACTICES Real solutions for responsible brands Maximum transparency from BASF Environmental and social innovation in business


Trending ingredients from the kitchen

Silab address alopecia with Hairgenyl Formulation concepts for beard care Men’s care trends from GlobalData




45 www.pharma

| Volum June 2017

e 43 | Number


43 Tubes Concepts for a new era

Tube tions innovtraen ds and

45 Security Features for Packaging

Keeping goods safe and secure

47 ASSOCIATION NEWS Latest news from GBM and Coschem on solutions Brand protecti ckaging for premium pa s ect eff Frosted

P C Review | JUNE 2017 |



From the editor

Shining a spotlight on sustainability


A market segment with huge potential,

he days of only buying products in retail stores are long gone. Presently,

male grooming is featured on page 34.

consumers not only have access to

While men are generally still finding their

a variety of channels to purchase

way around the whole grooming concept,

cosmetics and personal care products,

the time is right for brand owners to show

but also hordes of information about these

them the way. How, you ask? Through

products. The information age has given

customisation, which you can read more

rise to better-informed consumers, and

about in this edition. Aarifah Nosarka serves up packaging

because they know more, they’re dubious about claims and demand transparency in

for your palette in PACKAGING REVIEW.

terms of sustainability practices and ethical

This month’s hot topics include tubes

sourcing methods.

and security features. With counterfeiting


Editor: Abby Vorster +27 (0)11 877 6038 Assistant Editor: Aarifah Nosarka +27 (0)11 877 6209 Layout & Design: Kirsty Thomas Contributors: Dr Trevor Baillie, Elena Cañadas, Brigitte Closs, Mélanie Coirier, Júlia Comas, Raquel Delgado, Laia González, Peter Hays, Rakesh Jain, Olga Laporta, Emilie Lasjaunias, Derek McPhee, Steve Osborn ADVERTISING Sales Executive: Carla Melless +27 (0)83 260 6060 Sales Executive: Anita Raath +27 (0)82 976 6541 Sales Executive: Candida Giambo-Kruger +27 (0)71 438 1918 INTERNATIONAL SALES Germany/Austria/Switzerland: Eisenacher Medien Erhardt Eisenacher +49 228 249 9860 Italy: Ngcombroker Giacomo Rotunno +39 370 101 4694

trend, are impacting ingredients’ suppliers

pose life-threating risks to patients, experts

Taiwan: Ringier Trade Media Sydney Lai +886 4 2329 7318

in a big (and positive) way. This is evident

say it’s crucial to address the problem at its


in the June edition of Pharmaceutical

roots using a holistic approach. This coupled

Cosmetic Review, where we’ve covered

with robust solutions, like those featured on

Circulation Manager: Felicity Garbers +27 (0)21 701 1566

the latest formulation ingredients, which

page 45, are a good way to mitigate risk.


These and other drivers, like the free-from

continuing to attack healthy brands and

are sure to inspire innovation. A new anti-

Please keep in touch. We welcome your

ageing active, African botanical extracts,

editorial submissions and feedback on the

developments in rooibos research, trending

magazine. You can send an e-mail

ingredients from the kitchen and vitamin E

to abby.vorster@newmediapub.

with the lowest carbon footprint are among or aarifah.nosarka@

the articles worth a read. Turn to page 12

now to find out more. No longer a trend, sustainability has

Enjoy the read.

become paramount in the cosmetics

General Manager: Dev Naidoo Publishing Manager: Natalie Da Silva +27 (0)11 877 6281 Production Controller: Rae Morrison Art Director: David Kyslinger JOHANNESBURG OFFICE New Media Publishing, Ground floor, Media Park, 69 Kingsway Avenue, Auckland Park, 2092 6111 Fax: +27 (0)11 713 9024 Tel: +27 (0)11 877 6111, POSTAL ADDRESS PO Box 784698, Sandton, Johannesburg, 2146

industry. In the sustainable practices

Published on behalf of Media24 by New Media Publishing (PTY) Ltd.

feature on page on 30, we look at sourcing


methods, the rise of renewable materials,

Aileen Lamb

and environmental and social innovation


positively impacting communities all over

Bridget McCarney

the world.



Dr Trevor Baillie

Past-President, Society of Cosmetic Chemists SA

Prof Dr Aubrey Parsons

Irna van Zyl HEAD OFFICE

Consultant, Cosmetic Solutions

John Knowlton Professor Emeritus, Faculty of Health Sciences, Nelson Mandela Metropolitan University

Prof N T (Raj) Naidoo Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review is published by New Media Publishing 11 times a year and circulates to manufacturers, packers and distributors of pharmaceuticals, health products, cosmetics, detergents, soaps, toiletries and allied products. The journal is an up-to-date source of reference for company directors, factory and production managers, marketing executives, engineers, import agents, buyers and research personnel.

CEO of the National Association of Pharmaceutical Manufacturers

Vivian Frittelli P C Review is the official journal of: CTFA - The Cosmetic, Toiletry & Frangrance Association of South Africa NAPM - The National Association of Pharmaceutical Manufacturers


| JUNE 2017 | P C Review

New Media House, 19 Bree Street, Cape Town 8001 Tel: +27 (0)21 417 1111, Fax: +27 (0)21 417 1112 Email: PO Box 440, Green Point, Cape Town 8051

COSCHEM - The Society of Cosmetic Chemists of South Africa HPA - The Health Products Association of Southern Africa AMA - The Aerosol Manufacturers’ Association of South Africa

While precautions have been taken to ensure the accuracy of its contents and information given to readers, neither the editor, publisher, or its agents can accept responsibility for damages or injury which may arise therefrom. All rights reserved. © Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, photocopying, electronic, mechanical or otherwise without the prior written permission of the copyright owners. Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review is printed and bound by CTP Printers - Cape Town. Copyright: all rights reserved. ISSN 0257-8719


Meggle launches micronised inhaler excipient

Sustainable vanilla project gets nominated THE ‘VANILLA – FAIR and sustainable’ initiative supports farmers in Madagascar with education, fair prices and sustainable farming methods. Its purpose is to eliminate social and economic constraints, which keep vanilla farmers trapped in a cycle of poverty. It also sets out to ensure better

INHALAC 500, MEGGLE’S first inhalation-grade lactose, exhibits extremely

living conditions for 50 000 people in the grower

small particles combined with high quality and safety to meet individual dry

communities on the island’s Sava region.

powder inhalation formulation requirements. The product is available locally

This initiative forms part of the development partnership between Symrise, Unilever, the

from Amchem. According to the company, it is the finest grade available in the InhaLac

German Society for International Cooperation

product family. The micronisation process leads to a very small particle

and the Save the Children aid organisation.

size distribution, with 90 percent of the particles being smaller than 10μm

It has been nominated for Europe’s biggest

(x50 ≤five μm). This allows a versatile application in the field of dry powder

environmental prize, the GreenTec Awards, in the

inhalation products.

Sustainable Development category.

The benefits of InhaLac 500 include:

A total of 10 innovative environmentally

• micronised material with high cohesive properties

friendly projects, which seek to demonstrate that

• similar size range as an active pharmaceutical ingredient

sustainability and profitability go hand in hand,

• versatile application as ‘fines’ or co-agglomerate

competed for the nomination. Three finalists were

• the product is retested after one year

selected from these 10 projects by an online

As a micronised lactose, InhaLac 500 is suitable for ternary DPI formulations as

public vote and a jury of 60 experts.

an ultra-fine lactose. The addition of micronised ‘fines’ improves drug product

‘The nomination is an important recognition of

performance. This can be related to several known effects such as the buffer

our commitment to greater sustainability in our

effect, or saturation of high energy active sites. Due to the high cohesiveness

supply chain,’ says Friedrich-Wilhelm Micus, who

of the micronised material, it alters the fluidisation behaviour of the powder

is responsible for sustainability communication

blend and creates agglomerates.

at Symrise. ‘This strengthens our conviction that

Thanks to its minute particle size, it is perfectly suitable for use in soft

we have taken the right path with our support of

spherical pellet formulations.

vanilla farmers.’


dinner hosted in Berlin, Germany, together with

The winner will be announced at a gala

TELOS 2 REAGENT Chips from Dolomite Microfluidics have helped San Francisco-based ProLynx to develop a novel drug delivery platform. Jeff Henise, director of process development at ProLynx, explains: ‘Traditional polymer encapsulation delivery systems rely on diffusion or breakdown of the polymer to release their payload. In contrast, our drug delivery system offers controlled release using self-cleaving linkers to attach the drug to hydrogel microsphere carriers. Drug release and subsequent gel degradation depend only on the cleavage rate of the linker, and are tuneable across a wide range. A key part of our manufacturing process is the production of the hydrogel as microspheres, which is carried out using Telos 2 Reagent Chips.’ To produce microspheres of the correct size, ProLynx uses a microfluidics approach and a custom-made Telos chip with a 50 micrometre channel. This chip is robust, with excellent chemical compatibility, and offer a high throughput for its size. Henise adds: ‘Although there are other ways of making emulsions, microfluidics offers better control of particle size and a high yield of monodisperse emulsion. As the resulting material does not need to be screened to remove incorrectly sized particles, this minimises waste and increases yield by as much as 30 percent.’ Jeff Henise in the lab


| JUNE 2017 | P C Review

the winners in the 13 other categories of the awards. ‘We have high ambitions and want to win,’ says Micus. ‘But the GreenTec Awards are about more than winning. They shift the attention to numerous ideas and projects that use innovations and modern technologies to successfully combine ethics, environmental protection and profitability. Competition encourages imitation, and we want to motivate other companies to also implement sustainable processes.’ Vanilla pods harvested by farmers in the Sava region in the northeast of Madagascar



Analysis of the ISO 9001:2015 document

released, quality professionals throughout

itself, as well as certification body

the pharmaceutical industry have been

guidelines, proved to be invaluable in

gearing up to prepare for the transition.

obtaining comprehensive knowledge

Pharmaceutical Enterprises approached

of the requirements. The next step was

this change with the aim of being fully

an extensive review and gap analysis

compliant well ahead of the September

of the existing QMS. Risk, for example,

2018 transition deadline. This is to ensure

is a significant focus of the standard

the packaging solutions it offers are

and features throughout. Although risk

aligned with the latest requirements.

management procedures were already

The first hurdle was to gain a thorough

in place, it was necessary to demonstrate

understanding of the new requirements.

a risk-based thinking approach to all

Although there was no shortage online

aspects of the business, rather than only

of information and interpretations of the

product focused.

standard, the company chose to employ

The ambitious target to fully integrate

external training providers to upskill its

with the new standard by the next

entire management team, including

recertification audit allowed the company

the directorship. With ISO now placing

less than three months to implement the

a greater emphasis on leadership

action plan.

engagement, it is essential to have top

The journey culminated in

management involvement and support

Pharmaceutical Enterprises achieving a

for a successful quality management

successful transition to ISO 9001:2015, and

system (QMS).

was awarded certification in February 2017.

Tablet packing is one of the many pharma packaging solutions of Pharmaceutical Enterprises which is now ISO 9001:2015 certified

P C Review | JUNE 2017 |



Bringing the beauty of cosmetics to cancer patients SINCE BEING ESTABLISHED in 2005 by the Cosmetics, Toiletry

The programme is run in both the public and private sector at

and Fragrance Association, Look Good Feel Better (LGFB) has

40 oncology centres located nationwide. Every workshop is free of

been helping women address the visible side-effects of their

charge for the patients to attend. During the workshops, volunteers educate the women on a

cancer treatment. The workshops have a threefold focus: a physical transition using

12-step skin care and makeup regime, five of which focus on

skin care products and makeup; providing emotional wellbeing

cleansing and moisturising followed by the beauty aspects. The

and a social aspect, which is possibly the most crucial benefit.

women are also educated on sun care, with volunteers promoting

Everything is built around the cosmetics and skin care brands the

the use of sunscreens formulated with titanium dioxide and zinc

women interact with, making the products crucial to the programme

oxide UV filters.

achieving its goals. Without the products sponsored by brand

Charmaine van Schalkwyk, national coordinator for LGFB, says the

owners and manufacturers in the South African cosmetics industry,

programme has been able to establish and meet the distinct needs

the positive psychological results of LGFB would be unachievable.

across the two sectors. For example, eye makeup remover and eye creams are of a greater need in the private sector, while toothpaste and bar soaps are best for public sector patients. This is in addition

Makeup sponsored by the cosmetics industry is changing the lives of cancer patients across South Africa

to the products needed for the actual workshops, which include milk cleanser, alcohol-free toner, day cream, foundation, concealer, blush, eye pencil, eyeshadow, mascara and lipstick. Margaret Hewson, LGFB programme director, adds: ‘To reach our 2017/18 goal, we need more companies to pledge support and become LGFB members or sponsors. We also request our members contribute suitable products needed for the workshops.’ Apart from receiving a complimentary bag of products, sponsored by various players in the cosmetics industry, the women gain confidence from the LGFB workshops and support from fellow cancer patients – which is something truly beautiful.

Local hair care

survey results



A HEALTHY HEAD of hair is more

hair loss* (*not resulting from a medical

AT THE IN-COSMETICS Global 2017 awards, Chemyunion won Silver

important to young upmarket South

condition) in young women.

in the Sensory category for Emulfeel SGP CHI. This innovative excipient

African women than an active sex life,

Survey results also revealed that 60

has a high degree of vegetal ingredients and is based on the double

attractive body or owning a car. This

percent of respondents colour, dye or

gel network (DGN) technology, which provides structuring of the oil and

is according to a new survey of 1 001

straighten their hair; 43 percent said they

aqueous phases.

women aged between 18 and 39, who

were either losing hair or it was thinning.

are based in Gauteng, the Western

When asked what they thought

It allows for formulations to be developed using fewer ingredients and just by changing the oil phase different textures can be created with great

caused hair loss, most respondents

versatility. Emulfeel SGP CHI can be used to adjust sensorial properties

selected (in descending order) emotional

or as a viscosity modifier in cold or hot processes. As it does not require

found most essential is family, followed

stress, bleaching, over-treatment,

special production equipment, it saves time during implementation and

by health and well-being, a good

illness and genetic or hormonal

reduces the environmental impact.

job, money, and a stable romantic

reasons, braiding, work stress, and an

relationship. Healthy hair is next on

unhealthy diet.

Cape and KwaZulu-Natal. Topping a list of what respondents

According to Chemyunion, which is represented in South Africa by Chemgrit Cosmetics, Emulfeel SGP CHI has been evaluated for clinical

the list and on par with a cellphone

Dr Adolf Klenk, head of Dr Wolff

and the internet. These are followed

Research, which discovered caffeine’s

by exercise, an attractive body, and a

positive effects on protecting against

formulators. Minimalist and multisensorial formulas are the best and

car. The least important on the list is an

hair loss*, said the results confirmed that

easiest way to guarantee their loyalty once consumers are more conscious

active sex life.

losing hair affects young women too. He

of what they are using and how it will affect their well-being. These days,

The survey was conducted by

says that Plantur 21 was developed in

formulations must also be cost-effective, not only reducing components

Insight Survey – an independent

response to the demand from younger

but also the process itself. This has become a trend in the personal care

market research company – on behalf

women for a similar product to Plantur

market. Understanding market demands, Chemyunion has demonstrated

of Plantur 21 caffeine shampoo. This

39, which addresses hair loss* in women

how easy it is to produce a multisensorial formulation in one step, with no

product promises to protect against

over 40.

heating required.


| JUNE 2017 | P C Review

safety and showed excellent skin compatibility. Creating value for the consumer has always been a challenge for

Introducing the most valuable

cosmetics brands




D N A R B on

i t p e c per


rand Finance – a leading

Second-placed Gillette is one of the

shampoo is the fastest growing cosmetics

valuation and strategy

fastest growing brands in the cosmetics

and personal care brand, more than

consultancy – values the

industry. The brand grew by 68 percent in

doubling its brand value to US$5.4 billion.

brands of thousands of

value last year to reach US$12 billion. The

One recent campaign includes ‘Scalp

the world’s biggest companies every

Procter & Gamble-owned brand continued

Brave’: breaking away from ads that

year. The 50 most valuable cosmetics

to deliver razor-sharp marketing campaigns,

tended to rely solely on Head & Shoulders’

brands are featured in the Brand

including its ‘Perfect isn’t pretty’ campaign

functional attributes, this campaign takes a

Finance Cosmetics 50 2017 report,

in the lead up to the 2016 Olympics.

quirkier approach. The faces of celebrities

which you can access via this link:

L’Oréal Paris has lost ground this year,

such as Sofia Vergara and footballer

falling behind Gillette to third. Its brand

Giovani Dos Santos are shaved into people’s


value is down 11 percent in value to

hair, to illustrate the confidence to do

US$8.7 billion.

bold, fun things that having a flake-free

Johnson’s tops the list with a brand value of US$16.8 billion. It has a brand

Amongst the brand owners, P&G comes

scalp allows. P&G has demonstrated that

strength score of 89, which is largely

out on top with eight brands in the sector’s

well-executed creativity can help boost

thanks to its association with maternity.

top 50 and a combined brand value of

brand value.

An exceptionally high level of brand trust

US$34.1 billion. P&G’s brands are growing

is required to succeed when marketing

strongly – in addition to Gillette’s strong

this year; its value is down 26 percent to

products for infants. Johnson’s has earnt

growth, Pantene, Olay and SK-II are growing

US$859 million. According to Brand Finance,

this over decades with effective, safe

by 72, 74 and 80 percent respectively.

other brands that have also declined in

and reliable products and advertising

Head & Shoulders is possibly P&G’s biggest

value this year are The Body Shop, Estée

that positions the brand in this way.

success story this year. The anti-dandruff

Lauder, Olay, Shiseido and Old Spice.

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| JUNE 2017 | P C Review

STREET Own it!

Black Pearl Ethnic hair care products by model and actress Pearl Thusi have been developed in collaboration with AfroBotanics. The range includes an oil blend, sulphate-free shampoo, hair jelly, conditioning moisturiser treatment, and a hydrating conditioner. Thusi says this ‘capsule collection’ offers consumers the basics for good hair, whether it’s natural or relaxed. The products

For kids by kids

are formulated using mostly natural ingredients, which enhance hair and lock in moisture.

Shampooheads Professional is a new salon hair care range created by international industry experts, Geoff and Colette Bell. Developed using major contributions from teens and tweens, the Strawberry Kiss, Tropical Twist and Blueberry Burst ranges promise to meet the needs of today’s children and teenagers. Depending on the range, the formulations are enriched with soft cotton extract, refreshing water mint, and mango fruit extract. Like the Shampooheads Professional South Africa Facebook page for more info.

Clean protein Phyto Pro is a plant-based range of nutritional products based on isolate powder, extracted from yellow peas (Pisum sativum). The products are developed in a medical and lifestyle change practice, based in Cape Town, South Africa. The non-GMO peas are grown in France, using environmentally friendly agricultural practices. Phyto Pro pea protein isolate is said to contain a broad profile of 18 amino acids, and is comparable to other whey, soy or animal sources of protein. Visit for more information.

A true hybrid The all new Gelish PolyGel has arrived in South Africa. PolyGel integrates the best qualities of both acrylic and hard gel into one patent-pending product. This professional nail care product boasts an all-in-one premixed formula featuring TriPolymer technology, giving it a puttylike viscosity to ensure a smooth and durable finish. Gelish PolyGel is available exclusively from local distributor, Sparkle Cosmetics.

A close shave Available at Sorbet salons, Sorbet Man and Clicks stores nationwide, the new Sorbet Man Shave Gel is a real skin pleaser. This deep freeze cooling gel is formulated with a man’s skin in mind and provides an optimum cooling barrier for a stress-free shaving experience. The shave gel is dermatologically approved and packed with cooling, skin-calming ingredients like Aloe Vera. Its light low-foaming properties enable a close shave while shielding skin from cuts and nicks.

P C Review | JUNE 2017 |



The skin care elixir of life Test results of a new shiitake mushroom-based extract from Lipotec show it can improve collagen quality. Actifcol advanced botanical ingredient, available in South Africa from Savannah Fine Chemicals, is effective in contributing to younger-looking skin. By Júlia Comas, Olga Laporta, Elena Cañadas, Laia González and Raquel Delgado


istorical references point to

to skin ageing. When compared with

percent) and fibronectin (33.6 percent)

shiitake’s powerful anti-ageing

other well-known NEPTM of glycation,

mRNA, versus the control.

benefits. Emperors of China

carbamylation has shown to have

would eat vast amounts of this

a stronger implication in ageing,

incubated with one percent Actifcol for

mushroom to keep themselves young.

due to its stronger accumulation of

48 hours, or only the medium as a control.

Scientific studies have shown that shiitake

derived products 4.

The ability of the active ingredient to

is rich in antioxidant compounds, which

Human dermal fibroblasts (HDFa) were

boost the synthesis of type I collagen was assessed by an enzyme-linked

species and DNA, preventing protein

Efficacy tests with positive results

and lipid damage, contributing to

Lipotec has conducted several efficacy

resulting in an increase of 36.6 percent

reduced cellular apoptosis and increased

tests on Actifcol, a shiitake mushroom-

(p<0.01), compared to non-treated cells.

cell viability1.

based extract, to confirm its potential

help reduce levels of reactive oxygen

The mushroom has also gained

immunosorbent assay (ELISA) technique,

activity in increasing type I collagen and

attention from the cosmetics industry

PLOD1 levels, as well as in

as it’s considered a powerful anti-

reducing carbamylation.

ageing candidate to introduce into skin

The results corroborate its

care formulations.

rejuvenating capacity.

Functional collagen is key for young skin

genes contributing to

Young skin is mostly characterised by its

using microarray analysis.

firmness, elasticity and resilience, mainly

Multilayered human skin

provided by functional collagen and

models were treated

elastin. Type I collagen is one of the most

with culture media with

abundant proteins in skin, providing tissue

10 percent Actifcol, or

structure and strength. The biosynthesis of

a buffer solution as a

collagen is a complex process. It includes

control. After incubation,

multiple steps that contribute to the

cells were lysed and RNA

protein’s proper structural and biological

isolated. The ingredient

functions. One of the most critical is the

showed to upregulate the

post-translational modifications (PTMs).

expression of type I collagen

These PTMs include the hydroxylation

(44.2 percent), PLOD3

of lysine residues by the enzyme lysyl

(128.4 percent), elastin (69.4

HDFa were treated with two or three percent Actifcol, or only the medium as

Figure 1: Patterns showing the average of diffraction peaks related to collagen

The expression of certain firmness was evaluated

hydroxylase (LH), encoded by the PLOD gene. These hydroxylysines are precursors of cross-links that help provide tensile strength and mechanical stability, indicating PLOD importance in offering a resistant and younger looking skin2, 3. Once the collagen molecule is formed, it can endure several deterioration processes, such as carbamylation. This non-enzymatic post-translational modification (NEPTM) is caused by various factors. Carbamylation has been studied for its implication in modifying the collagen structure, inducing destabilisation, and in reducing fibril organisation and cohesion, leading


| JUNE 2017 | P C Review

Figure 2: AFM images displaying collagen fibril bundles at different scales

Ingredients Figure 3: Decrease in the R0 parameter of the face compared to placebo and of the neck and décolleté, after 56 days (vs initial time: *p<0.05; ***p<0.001)

a control. The ELISA technique was used to evaluate the ingredient’s ability to boost the levels of PLOD1, which is associated with an improved quality of collagen. Results showed an increase in the protein by 17.5 (p<0.1) and 21.9 percent (p<0.01), when treated at two or three percent respectively, and compared to the control. Collagen type I at 20µg/mL was incubated with 0.1 M potassium cyanate to induce carbamylation and it was either treated with two percent Actifcol advanced botanical ingredient or with only the medium as a control. Protein carbamylation was evaluated using the ELISA technique. Levels of carbamylated adducts were then determined with a carbamylated bovine serum albumin (CBL-BSA) standard curve. After the active treatment, carbamylation decreased by 75.9 percent (p<0.0001) versus control, indicating a reduction in collagen deterioration.

Mollecular structure and fibril organisation The ability of Actifcol to improve the structure and organisation of collagen

P C Review | JUNE 2017 |



fibrils was assessed in human skin

Figure 4: 3D illustration of the displacement of pixels monitored by a camera inside a probe during suction and relaxation of skin

explants placed in culture medium, which underwent carbamylation. The carbamylated explants were either treated with two percent advanced botanical ingredient, a placebo cream or were left with only the medium. As a control, noncarbamylated explants were kept only in the medium throughout the experiment. At the end of treatments, the molecular structure of collagen was evaluated for each explant by X-ray diffraction technique. This provides patterns characterising collagen’s microstructure. Fibril

Figure 5: Photographs of a subject’s neck, before and after the active treatment

organisation was assessed using atomic force microscopy technique (AFM), which can deliver microscopic images of collagen fibril bundles.



When fibrils are correctly arranged, the diffraction peaks related to collagen are narrow and intense. When they are disrupted, they are wider and weaker. After treatment, the diffraction signal was like that of the control, suggesting an

percent on the skin of the

collagen protein. It also boosts PLOD1

improvement in the

face, neck and décolleté

protein levels, suggesting an improved

respectively (see Figure 3).

quality of collagen.

collagen structure (see Figure 1). Large, straight and parallel bundles, typical of wellpreserved collagen, were obtained at the end of treatment, achieving


Skin’s linearity,

The well-known edible which determines its shiitake mushroom has a long displacement and history of traditional use as a returning profile, was remedy to fight ageing. It has assessed using a device also been acknowledged as an ‘elixir of life’. that combines mechanical

results like those of the noncarbamylated samples (see Figure

force and imaging. This provides a 3D view of skin’s

Actifcol also helps decrease the levels of carbamylation, involved in the collagen deterioration process. When evaluated on human skin explants, the ingredient improved the structure and organisation of collagen fibrils, even after carbamylation. The rejuvenating efficacy of this

2). These results indicate the promising

suction and return to its original

advanced botanical ingredient was

effects of the botanical ingredient in

state. After 56 days of product

assessed on women presenting skin

reducing collagen’s carbamylation-

application, skin became more

flaccidity. The treatment resulted in

induced deterioration process.

isotropic and uniform in all directions

firmer, smoother and more isotropic

with a recovery to the starting point,

skin of the face, neck and décolleté of

typical of a young skin behaviour

the volunteers. ·

Firmness, maximal deformation and anisotropy

(see Figure 4).

A clinical test was performed on 19 and 55. Twice a day, they applied a

Proven youthful and rejuvenating efficacy

cream containing two percent Actifcol

Enhanced skin firmness can now

advanced botanical ingredient on the

be achieved with Lipotec’s Actifcol

neck, décolleté and half face, and

advanced botanical ingredient. This

a placebo cream on the other half.

shiitake-based extract has been

After 56 days of treatment, different

selected to look after collagen in all

parameters were evaluated.

stages of its life cycle, contributing to

female volunteers, aged between 41

The maximal deformation (R0)

younger-looking skin.

parameter, inversely proportional

The ingredient showed, in vitro,

to firmness, was evaluated using a

to increase the expression of genes

cutometer. At the end of treatment,

associated with firmness, and to

R0 decreased by 13.5, 10.1 and 14.4

increase the synthesis of type I


| JUNE 2017 | P C Review

REFERENCES: 1. A Markova NG. et al. Skin cells and tissue are capable of using L-ergothioneine as an integral component of their antioxidant defense system. Free Radic Biol Med. 46(8):1168-76, 2009. 2. Yamauchi M., Sricholpech M. Lysine post-translational modifications of collagen. Essays Biochem. 52:113-133, 2012. 3. Monthoux C. et al. Skin malformations in a neonatal foal tested homozygous positive for Warmblood Fragiel Foal Syndrome. BMC Vet Res. 11:12, 2015. 4. Gorisse L. et al. Protein carbamylation is a hallmark of ageing. Proc Natl Acad Sci USA. 113(5):1191-6, 2016.

Lipotec – Savannah Fine Chemicals –


A natural choice for healthy skin and hair The natural ingredients market has shown steady growth over the past few years. Natural oils, like baobab oil, are increasingly popular in beauty care as consumers continue to demand products formulated with raw materials derived from natural sources.


She comments: ‘EcoProducts is HACCP certified and has implemented an ISO 22 000 management system. Our oil undergoes

routine quality checks at various critical control points. Microbiology, moisture content and colour are monitored. All processing, extraction and packaging takes place at our premises.’

rganic baobab oil (Adansonia

Excellent for cosmetics

Digitata Seed Oil) is an excellent

Findings of a recent study on the safety

moisturiser. It has a long history

and efficacy of baobab oil (Komane et

of traditional use in South

al, 2016) show:

Africa and is hailed as one of nature’s best kept secrets. One of the most trusted sources of

An ingredient with many benefits Baobab oil is mostly widely used in

• it is significantly hydrating and moisturising • it has occluding benefits


cosmetics as an emollient, and a skin and hair conditioner. The oil, produced by cold-

EcoProducts is one of the first pressing baobab seeds, is companies in the bio-trade sector a triglyceride fat, which is in South Africa to gain organic liquid at room temperature. status and to comply with In a cosmetics national bio-prospecting formulation, baobab oil offers legislation.

pure organic baobab oil in South Africa is

• it is non-irritating.

EcoProducts – a company based in Limpopo.

‘Baobab oil has a unique

Since 2006, EcoProducts has led the way in the

fatty acid profile with a

development and supply of baobab oil and

functional balance of

baobab powder to the cosmetics, personal

palmitic, linoleic and oleic

care and food and beverage industries. The

acids,’ explains Dr Sarah

company has developed expertise in wild

Venter, owner of EcoProducts.

harvesting protocols, rural community supply

‘The combination of oleic and linoleic

and restructuring. It can also improve

chains, track and trace systems and baobab

acid is known to soften skin and restore

skin’s elasticity, and encourage cell

fruit processing technology.

and moisturise the epidermis. These

regeneration without clogging the pores.

Typical fatty acid values of baobab oil

fatty acids regenerate the epithelial

the following benefits: quick absorption; and skin softening

Baobab oil is suitable for body creams,

tissues rendering it an excellent oil for use

lotions, bath oils, massage products,

in cosmetics.’

and cosmetics.

EcoProducts sources its baobab

This golden yellow oil has a slightly nutty

fruit directly from harvesters at village

smell and blends easily with other essential

• 18 to 30 percent palmitic (saturated)

level. The company’s track and trace

oils and fixed oils. It also stores longer than

• 25 to 37 percent linoleic

system follows product movement from

other unrefined oils. •

(polyunsaturated) • 30 to 44 percent oleic (monounsaturated)

harvester to packed product. Dr Venter also ensures the consistent quality of her baobab oil, which conforms to

EcoProducts –

international food grade standards.

P C Review | JUNE 2017 |



Africa takes on the world

A small South African company has caught the eye of the global cosmetics industry by asking ‘why so little of the wealth of African botanicals is being utilised in product development’?


frinatural, which exhibited

Mafura, Kombo, Kokum and Shea – all

for the first time this year at

with exciting application prospects

in-cosmetics in London, is

– have been high on Afrinatural’s

the brain child of a group of

marketing agenda. Yet this has not detracted from its

passionate South Africans, led by CEO,

original offering of raw botanicals for

Adolf Joubert. He says, ‘International buyers are slowly learning to trust entities

the phytomedicine and nutraceutical

like ourselves to bridge the gap for their

industries. These include:

growth into Africa and the rest of the

• rose hip tea, which like rooibos, is high in antioxidants

world. As a bonus, rural communities

• Pelargonium sidoides, sidoides an excellent

in Africa are realising that trading

bronchial remedy, which has been

presents them with more sustainable benefits than the traditional aid programmes.’

Adolf Joubert

Joubert is challenging brand owners and manufacturers to open their minds to these new possibilities, to engage with local producers of

patented in EU as a pharma solution • the immune builder Sutherlandia frutescens,

which is known to be excellent in support of treatments for AIDS, TB, malaria, diabetes and high blood pressure

plant-based raw materials and unlock the wealth of

• Sceletium for stress relief

opportunity Africa can offer them.

• Bulbine latifolia – used internationally in

A representative from Here2Grow – a cosmetics and home care lab based in the UK – was highly impressed with Afrinatural’s offering at

Sutherlandia frutescens

the trade show, and reported that ‘the

sport nutrition as a muscle builder and testosterone enhancer • almost any other South African and African botanical known to the market.

company is helping to put Africa on the worldwide industry map’.

Tackling the challenges Joubert is concerned about the regulatory

Ingredients for various industries

landscape, both locally and abroad. ‘The Medicines

Afrinatural and its predecessor have been

the complementary medicines and health products

operating since 1998. The company has

industry,’ he comments, ‘while the incapability of

grown to be one of the leading suppliers

the Department of Environmental Affairs and the

of botanical ingredients sourced from all

Department of Science and Technology to find

over Africa to international wholesalers

effective ways of managing and implementing Bio-

and retailers in the phytomedicine,

Prospecting legislation is hampering trade. At the

pharmaceutical, nutraceutical, cosmetics,

current rate, these issues could kill most of the existing

personal care, and health food industries.

and potential economic opportunities. In addition,

Since 2013, it has placed immense

Control Council is placing unreasonable pressure on

South Africa’s dysfunctional bio-prospecting permit

effort on developing international markets

system is steering European product developers

for cold pressed oils and butters. Oils

away from using botanical ingredients sourced from

with exotic names like Marula, Baobab,

South Africa.’

Kalahari Melon, Manketti/Magongo,

Despite these challenges, he is optimistic and is

Ximenia, Mahuhu, Yangu, Tamanu, and

passionate about Africa and its potential. Joubert is

recently, Argan, and butters such as

also positive about the prospects of contributing to rural economic growth and job creation, and says,

Sceletium totuosum

‘the sky could be the limit’. ‘South Africa is not yet contributing 0.1 percent of the world demand for botanical solutions, while we have more than 10 percent of the world’s plant species,’ he explains. ‘International demand is growing at double digits, while local industries import approximately 80 percent of their requirements from outside of South Africa.’ ·

Afrinatural –


| JUNE 2017 | P C Review

Solutions for Cosmetics & Pharmaceuticals The H&R group of companies is a leading manufacturer of mineral oil specialities such as white oils, petroleum jellies, paraffin waxes, base oils, process oils, cable filling compounds, cosmetic and pharmaceutical raw materials. H&R group applies intelligent processes to obtain products that are high quality, innovative, and environmentally friendly. The high quality of H&R’s PIONIER range is achieved through special refining processes and thus most suitable for pharmaceutical, personal care and cosmetic purposes. H&R has established long-term customer relationships based on an outstanding reputation for superior quality standards, reliability of supply and versatile products. H&R has an exciting new Speciality Chemical product stream, which complements our existing product and service offering: with cosmetic, personal care and homecare applications.

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R3 million boost for rooibos research The South African Rooibos Council (SARC) will invest a further R3 million this year to commission additional research into the healthenhancing properties of rooibos. This could yield some of the most exciting new discoveries yet. Aspalathus linearis, the rooibos plant


way for other important findings and the possible development of nutraceutical products to combatt disease,’ he explains.

Beyond skin care benefits Among the exciting research currently underway is that of rooibos’ effectiveness in curbing altitude sickness. Prof Simeon Davies, Head of the Cape Peninsula University of Technology’s Sports Department led a pilot study to investigate the role of rooibos supplementation on several climbers during an expedition to summit Aconcagua in Argentina. At 6 962m, it is the highest mountain in the southern hemisphere. Many mountaineers who ascend to high altitudes often need to take prescription medication to combat high altitude sickness (HAS), but preliminary findings show the antioxidant compounds of rooibos have a beneficial outcome for high altitude climbers. Further research related to this has just been approved by the SARC and if successful, rooibos could provide a viable natural alternative to pharmacological medication for HAS. Ongoing research by the SARC into the cancerfighting properties of rooibos could see it playing a more prominent role in curbing the risk of this life-threatening disease. Other studies will ascertain the efficacy of rooibos in the treatment of chronic wounds that plague diabetics – a phenomenon

lready known for its myriad health

set to increase as the condition becomes

benefits, most of the research on

more widespread.

rooibos has been limited to laboratory

A product of South Africa

work and animal studies. The next

tranche of investment will enable researchers to

Over the past decade, the SARC has invested

build an even more solid foundation for human

more than R30 million in rooibos-related research,

trials, and in some instances, to move forward with

which has given rise to a host of new products and markets.

clinical studies. Ernest du Toit, SARC spokesperson, says since research on the remarkable Aspalathus Linearis plant was first conducted, science has proven its therapeutic ability to help prevent cancer, protect the liver and heart against disease, boost the immune system, reduce Ernest du Toit

hypertension, relieve allergies and thwart the effects of ageing.


to invest in research and keeping a close eye on studies done

Rooibos is arguably one of the most overseas and locally, SARC is not successful indigenous plant products only able to provide scientific to be commercialised with global evidence of the plant’s specific consumption currently at 15 000t. It is health benefits, but also police exported to more than 30 countries with Germany, the Netherlands, inaccurate or unsubstantiated Japan, the UK and US among claims on behalf of the the biggest importers rooibos industry. of rooibos.

‘Rooibos research has reached a critical


Du Toit notes that by continuing

‘As the guardian of the rooibos

sector, we have also lobbied for the

point where significant investment is required to

protection of rooibos products elsewhere in the

take it to the next phase. This is likely to pave the

world and in 2014, the European Union finally

| JUNE 2017 | P C Review

Ingredients Harvested rooibos processed for production

a significant impact on the rooibos industry, while paving a bright future for one of SA’s most soughtafter herbal assets,’ Du Toit concludes. ·

South African Rooibos Council –

STUDIES APPROVED BY SARC FOR THE COMING YEAR: • A study on the potential of rooibos to improve

low blood pressure, conducted by

recognised rooibos as a geographic indicator. This

gut health to strengthen the immune system

means local rooibos manufacturers have exclusive

and prevent disease, conducted by the SA

ownership of rooibos trademarks and IP, and the

Medical Research Council and two Taiwanese

rooibos as a complementary treatment

use of the rooibos name will only be applicable to

institutions: National Tsing Hua University and

in the prevention and management of

products that come from South Africa, which are

National Health Research Institute.

officially approved by the Department of Trade and Industry, guaranteeing quality control.’

• Research to determine the extent to which

Stellenbosch University. • Research to strengthen the case for

heart disease. • A study on the effect of rooibos

rooibos can combat chronic inflammation

tea extract in lowering the blood

to prevent and/or alleviate metabolic

glucose response after pre-diabetic

offers almost limitless health benefits. ‘The plant’s

disease, conducted by the SA Medical

subjects consume a known glucose

medicinal properties continue to astound scientists,

Research Council.

concentration, conducted by the

Rooibos is a unique South African plant, which

and I believe we’ve only just scratched the surface of its incredible healing potential. We are entering

• A study that delves deeper into the balancing effects of rooibos on high and

Waiariki Institute of Technology in New Zealand.

an exciting period of research, which could have

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Crest Chemicals

There are remedies for Skin Defense, Post Shaving, Problem Skin, Body Sculpting and Beard Care. The list of active ingredients that can be used are below: For Skin Defense Acqua Seal Coconut, Phytofuse Renew, AC Hyalurosome, ACB Bio-Water Bamboo, ABS Acai Sterols EFA, ABS Coconut Water PF, ABS Moringa Pterygosperma Seed Extract, Phytofuse Rejuvenate. For Post Shaving Phytofuse Renew, ACB Agave HSP, AC Mositure-Plex Advanced PF, Phyto-Biotics Quercus, Phytofuse Rejuvenate, Probacillus Revive, AC Dermal Respiratory Factor Advanced PF, ACB Bio-Chelate 5 PF. For Problem Skin ABS White Willow Bark Extract Powder, ACB Modified Pumkin Enzyme PF, ProRevive Blemish Balm Complex, ABS Lady’s Mantle Extract PF, AC Biopolymer Soy PF, AC Sebum Control Enzyme PF, ACB Equalizing Complex PF, ACB Rice Bioferment PF. For Body Sculpting AC Griffonia Lysate Advanced, AC CytoSulf PF, AC CytoPure PF, AC DermaPeptide Tightening PF, AC Hydrating Seaweed Complex, AC Caffeine Liposome PF, ABS Apple AHA’s, Active Lite. For Beard Care ACB Quinoa Protein, ABS Royal Jelly Extract G, AquaSeal Coconut, ACB Kale Protein Blend, ACB Pisum Sativum Peptide, AC Olive Oil Clear, ABS Pomegranate Sterols, ACB Botanical Sugar Complex.

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P C Review | JUNE 2017 |



Scratching the science of itching

these consumers first want to make sure the products won’t irritate their scalp. To assist customers in meeting consumers’ evolving personal care needs, like scalp irritation, Symrise screened more than 15 000 compounds to establish their itchinhibition abilities. Lars Jung, product

SymMollient W/S is ideal for shampoos, bath and shower products. This hydrophilic emollient not only improves skin’s tolerance of surfactants but also acts as a skin and scalp soothing agent. By Abby Vorster


This aqueous blend of

manager from Symrise explains:

Trideceth-9 and PEG-5

‘The combination of ingredients in

Isononanoate was put to the

SymMollient W/S provided the best itch-

test again in 2015 to confirm its

inhibition performance. This includes

soothing properties and ability

PEG-5 Isononanoate, which is a unique

to help combat itching.

Symrise product produced specifically for our company and not freely

Addressing global concerns

available on the market.’ After establishing in vitro the itch-

hen Symrise first launched

Scalp irritation is linked mainly to

relief properties of SymMollient W/S,

SymMollient W/S in 2007,

dandruff though it is not limited to this

Symrise went on to test the hydrophilic

the hydrophilic emollient

condition. According to Symrise, irritations

emollient in vivo on 20 Caucasian

was positioned to improve

such as itching and redness are often

volunteers (13 males and 7 females).

skin’s suppleness by restoring its lipid

associated with aggressive treatments

content (refatting effect). Its efficacy was

like relaxers, an oily scalp or external

proven in a series of in vitro and in vivo

factors such as cold and dry climates.

studies, confirming its anti-dehydrating

Product intolerance is a key concern for

effect and that it improves skin’s tolerance

consumers with scalp irritation issues.

of surfactants.

When purchasing hair and scalp products

Figure 1: SymMollient W/S instantly decreases the itching sensation

The combination of ingredients in SymMollient W/S provided the best itch-inhibition performance Two percent SymMollient W/S formulated in a common mild shampoo base was tested in a clinical randomised single-blind study versus a placebo. The volunteers, ranging in age from 18 to 60, all suffered from itchy scalp. Each volunteer tested both shampoos, one by one, according to a randomisation chart. Evaluation was conducted on both the short and long

Figure 2: SymMollient W/S imparts long-term relief from itching and erythema

term effects of SymMollient W/S, as well as its overall tolerability. The results are detailed in Figures 1 and 2. ‘Study protocol followed a two-fold approach to evaluate the instant and long-term benefits of SymMollient W/S. Firstly the instant itch decrease was evaluated after one, five, 15 and 30 minutes, while the long-term scalp soothing benefits associated with itching and erythema were assessed after seven days,’ Jung concludes. ·

Symrise –


| JUNE 2017 | P C Review

Personal Care

Geogard Ultra™ Evolving Preservation for an Evolving World

Three in five global personal care launches in 2016 were naturally-positioned... is yours one of them? Geogard Ultra™: The Ideal Choice for the Naturally-Minded Formulator – Conforms to the ECOCERT and COSMOS cosmetic standards – Certified by the Soil Association – Certified by NATRUE *Source: Personal care products launched in 2016 including ‘natural’ claims, according to Mintel Global New Products Database (GNPD) All product information corresponds to Lonza’s knowledge on the subject at the date of publication, but Lonza makes no warranty as to its accuracy or completeness and Lonza assumes no obligation to update it. Product information isintended for use by recipients experienced and knowledgeable in the field, who are capable of and responsible for independently determining the suitability of ingredients for intended uses and to ensure their compliance with applicable law. © 2017 Lonza


Trending ingredients from the kitchen In an age where people are looking for more alternative methods to treat common ailments, it seems producers of innovative ingredients are looking no further than the kitchen for inspiration. Dr Trevor Baillie explores the developments within this trend.

Coconut oil can moisturise skin and provide relief from certain skin conditions


or centuries, traditional healers around the world have been using common kitchen ingredients for the supportive treatment of many common ailments. Combining

season. Curcumins do have antithrombotic effects,

applications has resulted in several ingredients

so individuals preparing for surgery or using blood

becoming mainstream. Nowadays, they’re used in

thinning medication should advise their health care

dietary supplements available in pharmacies and

practitioner before taking turmeric.

health stores and are being prescribed by health care practitioners.

Triglycerides and probiotics Another common kitchen ingredient is coconut oil.

The anti-inflammatory spice

Commonly used for cooking, the benefits and uses of

Turmeric is one popular example. It is commonly

coconut oil go far beyond what most people realise.

used as a flavour and colour component in food,

Its health benefits stem from the high concentration

as a culinary spice and is a major component

of saturated fats and more specifically the medium

of curry powder. Turmeric essential oil is used to

chain triglycerides (MCTs) – caprylic, lauric and

manufacture perfumes. Traditionally, turmeric is

capric acids.

used orally for several digestive disturbances and

Most fats we consume take longer to digest,

for various types of inflammation. It is also applied

but MCTs found in coconut oil provide the perfect

topically to any area of inflammation. Knowledge of

source of energy because they are easily converted.

its healing properties have resulted in general health

MCTs are processed by the liver and immediately

and wellbeing home remedies being published with

converted into energy instead of being stored as

turmeric featured as the main ingredient.

fat. Research shows MCTs provide an ideal source

Research shows that turmeric’s healing properties

of energy for the brain, improving its function. MCTs

can be attributed to its active constituents,

have also been shown to support healthy cholesterol

curcuminoids. One of these includes curcumin

levels in the blood.

(diferuloylmethane), a yellow pigment, which appears to be responsible for the anti-inflammatory activity. This is due to its ability to inhibit many

Topically, coconut oil can moisturise skin and provide relief from certain skin conditions. Yoghurt also has understated health benefits.

pro-inflammatory markers in the body. This anti-

Probiotics are beneficial bacteria that occur

inflammatory property together with its traditional

naturally in the digestive tract. They ensure healthy

benefits for the digestive tract, make turmeric an ideal

such as preventing the overgrowth of yeast and other pathogens. Probiotics also support the production of

individuals suffering

vitamin K in the gut.

complications due to long-term anti-inflammatory

The most commonly used strains are Lactobacillus acidophilus and Bifidobacterium bifidum. Vast and recent developments in

use. Preliminary research also

probiotic supplementation for children

indicates turmeric may have

have occurred using Lactobacillus

a stimulatory effect on the immune system, lending to its use

| JUNE 2017 | P C Review

digestion and perform other important functions

alternative for from digestive


as an ideal supplement during the flu

this traditional knowledge with modern scientific

reuteri and Lactobacillus rhamnosus strains. These strains are commonly


prescribed together with antibiotic courses to maintain beneficial bacteria balance in the intestines. New research shows the possible immune enhancing effects of these strains in infants, while probiotic skin care is a new and growing trend.


Khiels offers a Turmeric & Cranberry Seed Energizing Radiance Mask that promises to invigorate and brighten the skin. It is formulated with cranberry extract, which is rich in antioxidants and resveratrol, and turmeric extract for its antiinflammatory properties.

to tissue degradation and the risk of degenerative diseases such as heart disease, cancer, and Alzheimer’s. There is growing interest around the presence of catechin epigallocatechin gallate

Polyphenols play an important role in maintaining health and wellness

(EGCG) found in green tea. Some research

Major advancements have

indicates that EGCG

been made at supplier level to ensure the stability and viability

may improve calorie

of probiotic strains. Storage

metabolism and

conditions and the delivery

thereby may be

medium for probiotics are

useful in the weight

essential to guarantee shelf life

management process. It is important that

and stability of the organisms.

individuals using any

Abundant source of antioxidants

chronic prescription medication advise their health care

Green tea has a long

practitioner before using any form

history of traditional use.

of green tea to ensure no possible interaction with their medication.

Numerous health benefits of green tea have been established, lending to its prominence as an ingredient in cosmetics, functional foods, and

Buying quality ingredients

dietary supplements. Traditionally green tea has

Sourcing trending ingredients and raw materials

been prescribed by healers to support a variety

is becoming extremely challenging. When

of medical conditions. It has also been used

looking for a raw material, always ensure it is

topically to relieve conditions such as sunburn

accompanied by safety and efficacy data, and

and gingivitis.

meets certain quality standards. The availability

Green tea is produced by steaming the leaves at high temperatures, and not by fermentation like with other teas. This steaming process

of safety data sheets ensures the ingredient has been tested and is safe for human consumption. Efficacy data confirms scientific research on

ensures a high polyphenol content, giving

the ingredient, that it has been tested at the

green tea its many health benefits. Polyphenols

correct dosage level and is in fact effective for

are phytochemicals – compounds found

the supportive use of a specific condition.

abundantly in natural plant food sources – which

The quality aspect is also vitally important. This

have antioxidant properties. Polyphenols play

information from the supplier will indicate the

an important role in maintaining health and

manufacturing processes used and quantity of

wellness. Antioxidants as a group help protect

actives present in the raw material at the time of

cells in the body from free radical damage,

production. For example, a good quality turmeric

thereby controlling the rate at which we age.

extract has a high curcuminoids content. This will

High levels of free radicals in the body can lead

also be related to the stability of the ingredient and its shelf-life. With probiotics, this is particularly important to determine the viable organism count, optimal storage conditions and expected shelf-life to support the label claim. Access to this information is essential from a marketing point of view and ensures all claims made can be validated. It gives the consumer a sense of confidence that the product purchased is safe, high quality, and will work for the specified condition. Access to this information also streamlines the new registration requirement for products with the Medicines Control Council. Trending ingredients will continue to evolve every year with more and more interesting facts discovered and published. In the words of Thomas Edison: ‘There’s a way to do it better – find it’! ·

ABOUT Dr Trevor Baillie is a wellness professional with extensive knowledge in the health products, complementary medicines and vitamins and minerals markets. He was previously the technical director of Lunar Pharmaceuticals and is currently establishing a new online health and wellness platform,

P C Review | JUNE 2017 |



Vitamin E with the

lowest carbon footprint Through a life cycle assessment, DSM has confirmed its vitamin E production methods have the lowest carbon footprint in the industry. Customers can now calculate this environmental impact for themselves.


itamin E is perceived as the most widely

to major alternative suppliers. It found the DSM

used cosmetics active ingredient in the

production method generates up to 85 percent less

world. Initially isolated in 1936, vitamin

particulate matter and uses up to 60 percent less

E was produced for the first time by

non-renewable energy than alternative suppliers.

DSM in 1938 and became widely used for human and animal nutrition. Again, it was DSM’s research

How does this improve sustainability?

in the ’80s and ’90s, which led to the discovery of

It’s often difficult to grasp the tangible effects of

vitamin E’s antioxidant activity when applied to

sustainability. What difference does it really make if

skin. This paved the way for its development as a

85 percent less particulate matter is generated or

cosmetics ingredient.

60 percent less non-renewable energy used?

Today, the ingredient is one of the most widely

To make its impact on sustainability tangible, DSM

used cosmetics actives, supporting skin renewal after

calculated the lowered carbon footprint translates

exposure to external stressors, such as UV light. In

to savings of 3 200t of CO2 for every 100t of Quali E

vitro and in vivo studies confirm its ability to enhance

purchased. This is equivalent to the entire carbon

moisturisation and strengthen the skin barrier.

sequestered by 82 000 tree seedlings grown for 10 years.

Making a responsible move

Aline Hueber, head of marketing – vitamins/

DSM markets several natural and synthetic forms of

personal care, comments: ‘Our vitamin production

vitamin E, which are distributed locally by Chempure.

is under constant review for sustainability, through

These are sold under the brand name Quali E, which

a programme of improvement that is already

comes with DSM’s Quality for Life seal of excellence.

delivering recognised achievements. Hence

The company’s Quali brand guarantees its vitamins

Quali vitamins also offer our customers a great

meet the highest expectations for quality, reliability,

opportunity to communicate their environmental

traceability and sustainability.

and social responsibility. ‘As part of our ongoing commitment to reducing

Given the high demand for this vitamin across multiple industries, the company identified a

our global carbon footprint, we regularly analyse

corporate responsibility to maximise the sustainability

the environmental impact of our products and

of its supply chain and production environment. The

processes before going on to create and implement

logical step was to conduct a life cycle assessment of

programmes for improvement. Our vitamin E carbon

the synthetically produced forms, and the company

footprint proves we’re on the right path.’ ·

can now claim ‘the lowest carbon footprint for vitamin E in the industry’.


Designed to evaluate the environmental impact

• Based on DSM’s Life Cycle Assessment conducted and reported according

of vitamin E production over its complete life cycle

to the requirements of the WBCSD Life Cycle Metrics for Chemical Products

(including creation, use, and end of life), the

guideline and according to the ISO 14040 & 14044:2006 Standards in 2017.

assessment compared vitamin E production by DSM

Chempure – DSM –


| JUNE 2017 | P C Review



Contract manufacturers for the pharmaceutical and complementary medicines markets Hersol Manufacturing Laboratories is a registered company specializing in manufacturing and packing of complementary medicines for third party companies within the local South African market. Founded in 1980, Hersol adheres to a Quality Management System which embraces current Good Manufacturing Practices in accordance with Medicines Control Council requirements.

The new 5 cubicle dispensary and sampling facilities

Hersolâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s extensive facility features a fully equipped Laboratory to ensure quality of raw materials and finished products. It has modern manufacturing facilities for blending, granulating, compressing & coating tablets as well as encapsulating capabilities. Hersol has state of the art on-site packing facilities, including a recently introduced blister packing machine. In addition, Hersol has facilities to manufacture and pack syrups, creams, gels and ointments. Leadership at Hersol is upheld by a highly competent Management Team with vast pharmaceutical subject matter knowledge and experience in staff motivation so as to achieve a superior product.

Handling of Raw Materials when weighing and dispensing is handled in accordance with Medicines Control Council guidelines

Hersol is registered with: t South African Medicines Control Council t South African Pharmaceutical Council t South African Department of Health t Health Product Association â&#x20AC;&#x201C; HPA t Cosmetics, Toiletries and Fragrances Association t FDA Food Facility

Hersol Manufacturing Laboratories (Pty) Ltd tel: +27 11 614 6631/2

fax: +27 11 614 4615



Pharmaceutical Focus//Tabletting & Encapsulation

Enhancing productivity the economical way Increasing tablet output economically is a key factor to consider as the demand grows for improved productivity within modern tablet production. I Holland’s Steve Osborn discusses how multi-tip tooling can assist manufacturers to fulfil this requirement.


ulti-tip tooling offers a number of

production time. This leads to several positive spinoffs,

benefits, including greater productivity.

including a reduction in energy consumption and

This is because of the increased

less work hours being required per press. Machine

number of tablets per turret rotation,

maintenance costs are also reduced, whilst overall

and a reduction in run-time per output of tablets,

press availability will be increased, creating time for

which leads to less maintenance per batch and

additional production.

reduced press set-up time. It also reduces the press Multi-three tooling

set up time for the quantity of tablets produced. There should be no requirement to purchase a new tablet

very short period of the formulation being prepared.

press to increase production when a multi-tip solution

The use of multi-tips enables the formulation to be

is adopted. The solution requires less presses to satisfy

processed quickly with optimum conditions.

production levels and less floor space, leading to more product produced per square metre.

Case study: Korsch PH800, 77 station press

A simple yet beneficial concept

Exploring the positives

Multi-tip tooling has transformed the way tablets

I Holland was approached by a customer (company

are produced and it is now considered the most

A), which required increased tablet output, but

productive form of tablet manufacture. These

without incurring costly expenditure on additional

punches are conceptually as simple as they

tablet presses. Company A was utilising a Korsch

sound, being punches with more than one tip. This

PH800, 77 Station Press to produce its tablets. Single

can range from a simple two tip punch to a punch

tip punches were being used initially, which gave

with up to 26 tips per punch face. Depending on

a theoretical maximum output of approximately

tablet design, it may be more than this.

831 000 tablets per hour. The machine was running

Successful implementation of multi-tipped tooling

at 80 percent of its maximum speed (which is quite

can eliminate the need to invest in expensive tablet

typical) and actual tablet output was around 665 000

presses, therefore reducing the overall capital spend.

per hour.

The number of tool set-ups required per production


Another less obvious benefit is in the production of tablets, which need to be compressed within a

To increase tablet output, I Holland suggested

batch can also be reduced and product batches

using multi-two tooling – a tool with two tips. During

are completed quickly, decreasing the overall

trials, tablet output was increased to one million

| JUNE 2017 | P C Review

Pharmaceutical Focus//Tabletting & Encapsulation

tablets per hour at a press speed of 60 percent,

Are multi-tips the best option?

resulting in a 66 percent increase in productivity.

If your requirement is to increase

Yet there was more potential for increased

production capacity within a short time

productivity, so I Holland provided multi-three

frame, multi-tips are the best solution.

tooling. This reached an output of nearly 1.5 million

They can eliminate the expense and

tablets per hour, which was an impressive

time delay often associated with the

125 percent improvement on the original

approval and implementation

numbers. Production time per batch reduced from 14.5 to 8.5 hours, which represents a significant improvement for Company A. Another example of the successful implementation of multi-tip tooling was with the installation of monoblock multi-two tooling for Company B, onto a

of new capital projects.


They can also reduce time to market and

I Holland produces punches and dies to fit any tablet press worldwide, so if you produce tablets, the company can supply the punches.

high speed Fette press with a segmented die table. This press initially ran at 900rpm with

drive down the costs of running a plant without decreasing output. Using a combination of correctly

multi-tip tooling and quality raw materials and coatings, is an obvious solution to enhance

a single tip, resulting in 900 000 tablets produced

productivity. This combination will also reduce

per hour. Company B required greater output so I

run-time per output of tablets, leading to less

Holland increased the machine speed to 1 200rpm

maintenance per batch and reduced press set-up

using monoblock multi-two tooling, and increased

time, which in turn reduces costs.

the output to 2.4 million tablets per hour. By simply adding multi-tip tooling,

Multi-five tooling

designed tablets, well manufactured

I Holland’s multi-tip tooling solutions are available in South Africa from Pakmax. ·

both companies increased tablet output without the need for expensive machine replacement, providing significant gains to the tablet manufacturers.

I Holland – Pakmax –

Sartorius_Secura_Jan17:Layout 1 2017/01/30 7:56 AM Page 1

We are Sartorius in South Africa 011 315 5444

P C Review | JUNE 2017 |


Pharmaceutical Focus//Tabletting & Encapsulation

Local competitiveness on the radar Pharmaceutical manufacturing is on the rise in South Africa. This is according to Adcock Ingram, which continues to invest in its facilities to grow local production.

A fluid bed drier and a horizontal mixer-blender from PA Cuthbert & Co, installed at Adcock Ingram’s Wadeville facility


dcock Ingram’s Wadeville facility is now a state-ofthe-art tablet and capsule manufacturing site thanks

to a R470 million state incentive from the Department of Trade and Industry (dti). Clifford Raphiri, chairman of the Adcock Ingram Group, explains: ‘The Wadeville facility has received support from the dti over the past few years through the Strategic Integrated Projects (SIP) and the Manufacturing Competitiveness Enhancement Programme (MCEP) incentive schemes. We are currently undertaking a R66 million upgrade to areas of the plant, which

First pharma company to join Proudly SA Adcock Ingram is the fi rst local pharmaceutical company to join the Proudly South African campaign. ‘We believe it’s a real step in promoting what South African pharmaceutical companies can do in terms of local manufacture and the provision of quality and affordable medicines, both in South Africa and to the rest of the African continent,’ says Hall.

include the microbiology laboratory and the dispensary. Adcock Ingram

Adcock Ingram is well positioned to

manufacturing facilities continue to

supply ARVs into South Africa thanks to

receive ongoing attention and investment

substantial upgrades to the Wadeville

to meet regulatory requirements and for

facility in recent years. Our goal today

expansion and modernisation purposes.’

was to show the capabilities of this facility and that proudly South African local

Engaging with government

manufacture is on the increase.’

The Wadeville facility is positioned to ABOVE One of the many automated tablet packing lines at the Wadeville facility BELOW The triple combination ARV treatment, Trivenz was registered in 2013

produce antiretrovirals (ARVs) marketed

Enhancing local production

by Adcock Ingram and supplied to the

The tablet and capsule facility is one of

state and private sector.

three local manufacturing sites under

The Minister of Trade and Industry,

volume liquids facility situated in Clayville

tablet and capsule manufacturing

was expanded and upgraded in 2012

on 8 May along with a dti delegation,

with a focus on environmentally friendly

senior management team of Adcock

technologies, while the Aeroton factory is

Ingram and representatives from Proudly

a leading supplier of hospital and critical

South African.

care products, such as intravenous fluids,

‘This event is part of our ongoing programme of engagement with

| JUNE 2017 | P C Review

blood bags and renal dialysis products. ‘Adcock Ingram remains a key player

government to share information and

in the local pharmaceutical sector. Its

create a better understanding, especially

continued investments in upgrading

on issues of policy affecting our industry

and expanding its manufacturing

and the potential capabilities we

capabilities contribute to upscaling the

can offer as a manufacturer,’ Raphiri

productive capacity of the industry.


Ultimately this supports the deepening of

Andy Hall, acting CEO of Adock


the Adcock Ingram umbrella. The high-

Dr Rob Davies, visited the company’s

industrialisation programmes within South

Ingram, adds: ‘As South Africa’s second

Africa and on the continent,’ Minister

biggest pharmaceutical manufacturer,

Davies concludes. ·

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Sustainability Practices

The path to sustainability

for responsible brands Experts from Aprinnova, Derek McPhee and Rakesh Jain, share a compelling story of how to achieve truly sustainable cosmetics. Through their knowledge of the industry’s value chain, they reveal real solutions available to formulators which are ethical, sustainable and don’t compromise on the quality of the end-product.


esearch shows the highest

these practices do

environmental impact of

face consumer

cosmetics is at end-user level.

skepticism in terms of

Consumers’ concerns range from


unsustainable raw materials sourcing,

To its credit, the

pollution both in manufacturing and the

cosmetics industry

disposal of packaging and products, to

has not given up. At

animal testing.

in-cosmetics Global,

In response, companies have attempted

a new interactive



Amyris is a member of Bonsucro compromise and (meaning ‘Good Sugar’) to ensure best efficacy issues sustainability practices in its raw material Achieving supply chain. This UK-based, global, nonsustainability goals profit, multi-stakeholder organisation requires formulations fosters sustainability of the sugarcane sector through a metric-based with a reduced certification scheme and continuous environmental improvement for members, from footprint, sustainably the farm to end-users. sourced renewable raw

to address these issues holistically, focusing

area was launched to

on sustainable raw materials sourcing and

educate visitors and exhibitors

greener formulations, packaging reduction

on various sustainability aspects.

and lower overall resource consumption.

For example, L’Oréal has committed

packaging concepts and positive

They are also focusing on social issues,

to transform by 2020 its sustainability

social impact1.

like ethical supply chains and corporate

footprint. The cosmetics industry giant

eco-philanthropy. Though admirable,

plans to do this by ensuring 100 percent

choices often meant manufacturers and

of the products it develops have an

consumers had to make compromises.

environmental or social benefit. It also

In some instances, natural ingredients

plans to achieve its corporate goal of

were produced unsustainably, like the

reaching one billion new consumers

multifunctional emollient squalene

worldwide. In 2016, the company

obtained from shark liver. Because

reduced its C02 emissions by 67 percent

of consumer and NGO pressure,

IN JANUARY 2016, Amyris announced the

since it first started documenting its

companies were forced to stop using

completion of a joint venture with Nikkol Group,

emissions in 2005. This shows how an

it in their formulations and the industry

a leading Japanese specialty chemicals’

ambitious commitment to sustainability

introduced squalane, derived from a

provider. This 50-50 joint venture is now

and economic performance can

by-product of olive oil processing. Yet

operating globally under the brand name

work together.

quality and pricing issues occurred,


Aprinnova with the goal of continuing to develop

‘By accelerating sustainable innovation

materials, or raw materials derived from green chemistry, new

Many years ago, product formulation

highlighted by fluctuations in the

and make available sustainable cosmetics

within our business, and harnessing

success or failure of annual olive crops

ingredients for responsible brands worldwide.

the power of our brands to inform

susceptible to yield, weather and

Aprinnova combines Amyris’ biotechnology

consumers, we will raise awareness about

potential drought2.

platform and Nikkol’s innovation expertise to

sustainability and encourage consumers

Novel synthetic materials initially

develop and market personal care raw materials.

to make more sustainable choices,’ says

perceived as environmentally friendly,

L’Oréal CEO, Jean-Paul Agon.

such as polylactic acid for packaging,


| JUNE 2017 | P C Review

Sustainability Practices

have faced criticism because they are

Chemicals, also received an EPA Presidential

derived from needed food crops and

Green Chemistry Challenge Award in 2014.

contribute to inflation in countries where

Amyris produces squalane from sustainable sugar sources using a fermentation process. The final manufacturing steps take place in an ISO

type of ethical compromise and source

Favourable alternatives to petrochemicals

of controversy.

Having proven the sustainability of its raw

ensure robust product quality. It is purer

materials, the next area to consider is its

than olive squalane, making it the most

ingredients often have worse performance

products. Neossance Hemisqualane, an

similar in performance to shark squalene.

than the ingredients they replace, which

ingredient launched in November 2014

The economies of scale for production allow

can hamper market adoption of eco-

by Amyris, is a perfect example of how

long-term stable and low pricing, allowing

friendly products.

biotechnology provides an alternative

formulators to incorporate the ingredient

to petroleum-based ingredients for the

and its premium performance into products

compromise? That is, ingredients produced

cosmetics industry. The product is positioned

where it would normally be cost-prohibitive.

in a sustainable way from sustainable raw

as a performance and cost-equivalent to

These examples prove it is possible

materials with equal or better performance

common excipients, such as petroleum-

to formulate with ingredients that don’t

and offered to industry at equivalent or lower

derived Isohexadecane, and fluid silicones.

compromise sustainability, be it the raw

pricing? The answer, based on Amyris’s

It is estimated that over 15 000t of these

material source or manufacturing processes.

experience, is yes. This is substantiated by its

materials are used in cosmetics’ applications

They also offer comparable or superior

Neossance brand of cosmetics ingredients,

every year.

performance to existing synthetic or natural

they are grown. This highlights a different

It is also notable that sustainable

So, is it possible to have ingredients without

which provide peace of mind. These ingredients are plant-derived from renewable feedstock with reliable long-term supply. Their pricing is stable, quality consistent, a robust manufacturing process is used to produce them and they comply with many international sustainability certifications.

An innovative ensemble of technology Amyris has developed, industrialised

alternatives, and thanks to the innovative

It is possible to formulate with ingredients that don’t compromise sustainability

technology used to produce them and economies of scale, they are available at stable long-term pricing. The success of Amyris’ Neossance ingredients is evidence that brands and manufacturers are beginning to take notice of their benefits. This initial success supports Amyris and other companies in their continued efforts to raise awareness about sustainability and provide real solutions to manufacturers and consumers. ·

and applied a combination of advances in bioscience, metabolic and enzyme

22716-certified facility where tight conditions

Life cycle assessments have

engineering, mathematical modelling,

demonstrated the overall process to


statistical process control, and chemistry,

produce hydrocarbons like Hemisqualane

1. Premium Beauty News website: ‘L’Oreal defines its sustainable

to meet the challenge of delivering ‘no-

represent a 60 percent reduction in

compromise’ sustainability. Instead of

greenhouse gas formation compared to

using alcohol, Amyris re-engineers ethanol-

similar petroleum-based materials. It is a

producing baker’s yeast to consume

sustainable alternative to fluid silicones,

fermentable sugars and convert them into

certain esters and petroleum-based

a variety of molecules. This ensemble of

paraffin ingredients, and is renewably

technology, known as an automated strain

sourced from sugarcane. It is backed by

engineering platform, produces innovative

stable supply, low pricing and consistent

materials on a commercial scale.

composition. Hemisqualane has a great

Because sustainability starts with the,6100 (accessed 14/9/2015). 2. McPhee, D.*; Pin, A.; Kizer, L.; Perelman, L. ‘Deriving Renewable Squalane from Sugarcane.’ Cosmet. Toiletries, 129, 20 (2014). 3. website. ‘Sustainability’ sustainability (accessed 14/9/2015).

Aprinnova –

sensorial profile, and although not the

feedstock, Amyris has developed strains

first natural alternative to silicones, most

that are feedstock agnostic. The company

customers say it is ‘the best alternative

can produce products equally well using

they’ve seen so far’. Hemisqualane does

molasses, sugar beet, sweet sorghum, corn

not yellow, is nearly odourless, non-polar

dextrose, and cellulosic.

and compatible with many ingredients.

Its primary focus is on Brazilian sugarcane

development goals for 2020’, News item (10/20/2013).

It also has high spreadability. It performs

as the most abundant, sustainable source

well in skin care (great sensorial profile,

of plant sugars without impact on food

non-comedogenic), hair care

supply and with relative price stability3.

(high spreadability, low friction

Its production facility located at Brotas,

coefficient, proven performance),

Brazil, is the first Roundtable on Sustainable

makeup remover (excellent

Biomaterials (RSB)-certified facility in

cleansing properties), makeup

the country. This certification covers the

(high spreadability), and sun care

manufacture of ß-farnesene, the building

(high spreadability, non-greasy, non-

block of its Neossance cosmetics ingredients.

tacky, and helps to balance oiliness of sun

Amyris, represented locally by Savannah Fine

care formulations).

P C Review | JUNE 2017 |


Sustainable Practices

Sustainable palm is possible

BASF is working hard to improve the sustainability of the personal care industry by ensuring its products are produced from sustainably sourced palm products. The company hosted its second Palm Dialog at in-cosmetics Global with key industry stakeholders.


ne of BASF’s key renewable

BASF’s sustainability facts and figures

raw materials is palm

kernel oil and its primary

derivatives, which are

and other palm-based raw materials used by

mainly used to produce

the company

ingredients for cosmetics and detergents, as well as in human nutrition. In 2016, the company expanded its purchasing volumes by about 32 000 tonnes to 158 000 metric tonnes, and nearly doubled the sales of certified products based on palm Small holder farmers in Indonesia benefit from BASF’s palm commitment

kernel oil. ‘BASF has made good progress to achieving sustainable palm products

785 000ha

is the average area required for palm kernel oil

508 000 metric tonnes represents

BASF’s palm oil exposure

>800 of its raw materials are palm-based • 19 BASF RSPO-certified sites globally • By 2020 procurement of all palm-based •

oils will be RSPO-certified sustainable with upstream traceability

and we believe sustainable palm is possible. A reliable certification system and maximum transparency are key steps towards protecting high carbon stock forests,’ says Jan-Peter Sander, senior vice president, BASF personal care Europe. ‘This allows us to help our customers fulfill the obligations they took to achieve sustainable palm-based

products, and participate actively in shaping the market as it evolves.’

Driving market transformation At in-cosmetics Global, BASF introduced its first Palm Progress Report. This document details its roadmap for sustainable palm, collaboration along


the value chain and the progress the company is making in driving physical transformation in oleoderivatives. Gebze in Turkey is now the latest of BASF’s 19 certifi ed sites in four regions. The company also


(FDCA). FDCA made from renewable resources

increased its range of products in the personal

has given interim approval for the recyclability

is the main building block for PEF. A final

care industry to more than 120 ingredients certifi ed

of polyethylenefuranoate (PEF), produced by

statement based on PEF quality, packaging

as ‘Mass Balance’.

Synvina – a joint venture between BASF and

designs and regional launch markets will

Avantium, located in Amsterdam. Following

be issued before market introduction of the

commitment and palm sourcing policy, which

EPBP’s assessment, PEF bottles are expected to

novel material. PEF is a bio-based plastic with

were first published in 2016, as well as its approach

be disposed through existing recovery systems

improved barrier properties for gases like

to include smallholder farmers. BASF became

in the same way as polyethylene terephthalate

carbon dioxide and oxygen, which leads to

a member of the Roundtable on Sustainable

(PET). The interim approval applies to a PEF

a longer shelf life of packaged products. PEF

Palm Oil in 2004 and belongs to the High Carbon

market penetration of up to two percent. This

is suitable as the main component or as a

Stock Steering Group, to drive additional forest

corresponds to the amount of PEF that could

barrier layer in flexible packaging, for personal

conservation requirements. ·

be produced from Synvina’s intended 50 000t

and home care products, and in bottles for

reference plant for furandicarboxylic acid

various beverages.


| JUNE 2017 | P C Review

The report features the company’s palm


Sustainable Practices

Environmental and social innovation Flowers of Buchu (Agathosma crenulata)

Provital Group (Provital) has embraced the many facets of sustainability, which are now present in all aspects of its business. These include social, occupational, environmental and economic improvements, as well as reducing water and energy usage.


extract, and to obtain the same quantity

contributed to biodiversity maintenance

litre. There is no dependence on the

and provided a group of Mexican women

natural availability of the plant from which

the opportunity to earn a stable income

this active is obtained; the company also

using their traditional knowledge.

holds in depth information on the origin and traceability of the active ingredient.

While many local producers of natural, plant-based ingredients continue to grapple

The BioDeVaTe project is another example

to secure its bioprospecting permit from the

of the company’s sustainability efforts. In

Department of Environmental Affairs for the

2009, it signed a co-operation agreement

commercialisation of its active, Affipore.

with farmers from the la Vall del Tenes region, located 50km from Barcelona,


longer a trend. It has become a basic need,

particularly if the industry wants to preserve the planet for future generations. As nature is

Mediterranean aromatic plants are cultivated organically in this region, which has

Over the last few years, Provital Group has improved its waste management, promoting the highest possible level of re-processing to become environmentally friendly.

Provital’s main stakeholder,

Source: 2015 Corporate Social Responsibility Report.

sustainability is present in all its activities.

Embracing local regulations

Fair trade and sustainable sourcing

to source certain plant extracts. ustainability is no

According to the company, the project

of Citrustem, Provital uses less than one

with BABS regulations, Provital has managed

The company says it is ‘the first internationally produced cosmetics active ingredient to receive a bioprospecting permit from the South African government’. It has also established agreements in terms of access and benefit sharing, as set

been under pressure from

out in the regulations, to ensure fair trade

urban projects.

and equal benefits for local communities.

Provital’s Xeradin active,

Provital purchases Agathosma betulina

together with other plant

plants, commonly known as Buchu,

extracts, are obtained

from these communities to produce the

from these Mediterranean

Affipore extract. ·

aromatic plants. This project not only covers sustainable

The company, represented locally by

sourcing but also fair trade, as many of

Savannah Fine Chemicals, obtains active

the workers in the area faced the risk of

ingredients from nature and has always

exclusion. Thanks to Provital, they now

understood that maintaining bio-diversity

enjoy a regular source of income and

and sustainable harvesting are essential.

have been able to improve their lives.

The group of Mexican women, who cultivate Agastache Mexicana and benefit from one Provital’s sustainability initiatives

Its portfolio ultimately mirrors the respect the company has for the environment. Many of the trends today, not only

Empowering Mexican women Sustainability is also strongly linked to

in cosmetics, but also other areas, are

biodiversity, which is essential to maintain

related to sustainability, such as the use of

the dynamic balance of our planet. A

plant stem cells in the cosmetics industry.

recent biodiversity project of Provital

Provital offers two actives produced

saw the company collaborate with the

from stem cells. Citrustem, from orange

University of Querétaro (México) and a

stem cells and Lingostem from the

group of women on the cultivation of

lingonberry. In both cases, the company

Agastache Mexicana, a flowering plant

uses far less water to obtain stem cells

species in the mint family, which is also

than it would to produce extracts of these

known as the Mexican giant hyssop. This

plants. Approximately 45ℓ of water is

plant provides the source for Provital’s

needed to obtain one kilogram of orange

active for stressed skin, Agascalm.

Provital Group – Savannah Fine Chemicals –

P C Review | JUNE 2017 |


Male Grooming

Fighting alopecia naturally A dense head of hair is the result of an equilibrium between loss

Silab, represented in South Africa by Meganede, has developed and tested Hairgenyl, a 100 percent natural anti-hair loss active, which supports the biological activity of the dermal papilla. It also stimulates hair follicle growth to re-normalise its development. By Mélanie Coirier, Emilie Lasjaunias and Brigitte Closs

Figure 1: The effect of Hairgenyl on the syntheses of versican and Ki-67 by hair follicles, ex vivo, in an alopecia model

and regrowth. Loss is a natural

phenomenon – a healthy person

loses between 50 and 125 hairs every day.

Accelerated hair loss, which is scientifically deemed alopecia, is perceived as premature ageing and can have considerable effects on the quality of life of individuals affected1. Androgenetic alopecia is a frequent disorder affecting up to 30 percent of men younger than 30, and more than 50 percent of men older than 502. It is characterised by the progressive appearance of thinner, shorter and unpigmented hair, forming down-like hair. Genetic and hormonal factors are the two main culprits, causing hypersensitivity to the hormone, dihydrotestosterone (DHT). This is responsible for all biological modifications occurring within this disorder. Certain environmental parameters may also contribute to the appearance of androgenetic alopecia. These include the repeated use of aggressive hair products, such as dyes and other chemical treatments, as well as smoking or exposure to UV3. During androgenetic alopecia, the functions of the following three main regulation factors, which play a major role in hair regeneration, are deficient and/or defective 4: 1. The mitochondrial dynamics – Because hair growth is a process that consumes energy, this energy is provided by the mitochondria cells’ ‘power plants’. These are dynamic organelles whose morphological confi guration determines energy production, which is an emerging concept in hair biology. 2. The signalling molecules – These enable communication among cells. In hair follicles, they coordinate the actions of papilla fibroblasts and matrix keratinocytes to ensure hair growth. 3. Epigenetics – This is a revolutionary mechanism that explains how the environment can determine the activity of genes. Several


| JUNE 2017 | P C Review

Figure 2: The effect of Hairgenyl on hair growth

Male Grooming

components are involved, including miRNAs, recently linked to the hair cycle. Currently, two chemical molecules have been

Hairgenyl provides an original and natural approach, reactivating the dermal papilla and stimulating hair follicle growth.

commercialised to treat androgenetic alopecia. the cases and their side effects are considerable,

A double hair regrowth and anti-hair loss efficacy

being oily hair, the appearance of dandruff, skin

An initial in vivo study was carried out with the

irritations, and libido issues. So, there is a genuine

phototrichogram to determine the hair regrowth

need to find a new approach that favours hair

effect of Hairgenyl formulated at 0.3 percent

growth while preventing the above-mentioned

in a lotion (see Figure 2). This experiment was

side effects 5.

conducted on a panel of 22 male volunteers with

Unfortunately, they are effective in less than half

There is a genuine need to find a new approach that favours hair growth

slight to moderate alopecia (mean

Development of 2D and 3D models

age of 43 ± eight years), applying the

To identify and demonstrate the efficacy of

product twice a day for eight months.

Hairgenyl, Silab developed 2D and 3D cell

The following parameters were analysed:

and tissue models mimicking androgenetic

hair density; number of hairs in anagen

alopecia. The 2D model of fibroblasts from the

phase (indicator of hair growth);

dermal papilla was adopted to define Hairgenyl’s

anagen/telogen ratio (hair growth

mechanism of action. The 3D tissue model of

coefficient); and the number of hairs in

spheroids mimicking the architecture of the

telogen phase (indicator of resting hair).

papilla and ex vivo studies on hair follicles (see

The capacity of Hairgenyl to

Figure 1) was used to determine the effect of the

reactivate hair growth is proven after

active ingredient on the function of the dermal

eight months of treatment; hair density increased

papilla. The biological modifications occurring

by +24.9 percent (P = 0.0001). The number of hairs

during androgenetic alopecia were mimicked by

in anagen phase increased by +49.1 percent

treating certain models with dihydrotestosterone

(P = 0.0001), whereas the number of hairs in

– a hormone classically used to induce

the telogen phase decreased by -26.1 percent

these disorders.

(P = 0.0001). This resulted in an increase of the

Demonstrated in 2D and 3D models, Hairgenyl acts on the three main (aforementioned) regulation mechanisms of hair regrowth. Silab

A/T ratio of +112.7 percent (P = 0.0005). A second in vivo

has proven for the first time that increasing

study was conducted to

mitochondrial fusion boosts the capacity for

determine the capacity

energy production, which is consumed in hair

of Hairgenyl, formulated

follicle growth. Tested at 0.04 percent on human

at 0.3 percent in a lotion,

hair follicle dermal papilla cells, Hairgenyl

to reduce hair loss in

stimulates the synthesis of mitofusin 1, which is

volunteers with slight

a protein involved in mitochondrial fusion, by

to moderate alopecia.

+52 percent.

This wash test carried

When tested on human hair follicle dermal

out by a professional

papilla cells treated with DHT, Hairgenyl at

hairdresser included

0.04 percent limits the expression of three

22 male volunteers (mean

signalling molecules in the microenvironment of

age of 43 ± eight years),

the dermal papilla, essential for hair growth:

who applied the product

1. IL-6 (interleukin-6) by -97 percent, which inhibits

twice a day for eight

growth of the hair shaft 2. DKK1 (Dickkopf 1) by -91 percent, an inhibitor

months. In the conditions of this study, the lotion

of the Wnt/ß-catenin pathway that causes the

containing 0.3 percent

hair cycle to enter latency

Hairgenyl stabilised

3. P16 by -71 percent, an inhibitor of the cell cycle

hair loss by limiting the

responsible for the premature senescence of

number of hairs lost by

dermal papilla fibroblasts.

-34.0 percent. This effect

In the components in epigenetics, 0.04 percent

was observed in 85 percent

Hairgenyl was tested on human hair follicle

of the volunteers.

dermal papilla cells treated with DHT. Results

Figure 3: Pichia minuta yeast, isolated from Rhododendron indicum flowers

A final self-evaluation

showed the active ingredient limits the

by volunteers confirmed

expression of two miRNAs, the source genes,

the efficacy of Hairgenyl. It

which are essential for hair growth. These

considerably reduced hair

are 3663-3p miRNA and let-7a-3p, by -50 and

loss in all the volunteers

-89 percent respectively.

who tested the product.

100 percent biotechnological Hairgenyl was developed using Silab’s extensive expertise in biotechnology. The active ingredient is rich in peptides obtained from the yeast Pichia minuta, which is isolated from Azalea flowers. This patented product is a preservative-free powder, resulting from a non-denaturing industrial process.

P C Review | JUNE 2017 |


Male Grooming

They largely reported their hair was thicker (85

activity of the dermal papilla and stimulates hair

scalp was more densely covered (85 percent). All

follicle growth to re-normalise hair development.

the volunteers (100 percent) found the product

Hairgenyl targets the three regulators of hair regrowth

Tested over eight months on a group of male

to be satisfying and desired to continue

volunteers, Hairgenyl increased hair density

using Hairgenyl.

and limited hair loss. Hair became thicker, more resistant and the scalp was more densely covered.

Conclusive results

This active ingredient from Silab is a technologically

With proven efficacy on cell and tissue models

advanced solution that is proven to promote

that mimic androgenetic alopecia, Hairgenyl

hair’s regrowth. ·

targets the three regulators of hair regrowth: the mitochondrial dynamics; expression of signalling molecules and components in epigenetics.

Meganede – Silab –


Dermatology, 128, 1088-1094 (2008); Fawzi et al., Assessment of tissue

1. Han et al., Quality of Life Assessment in Male Patients with Androgenetic

levels of dickkopf-1 in androgenetic alopecia and alopecia areata. Journal of

Alopecia: Result of a Prospective, Multicenter Study. Annals of Dermatology,

Cosmetic Dermatology, 15, 10-15 (2015); Kwack et al., Dihydrotestosterone-

24, 311-318 (2012)

Inducible IL-6 Inhibits Elongation of Human Hair Shafts by Suppressing

2. Avital et al., Study of the International Epidemiology of Androgenetic Alopecia

Matrix Cell Proliferation and Promotes Regression of Hair Follicles in Mice.

in Young Caucasian Men using Photographs from the internet. Indian Journal

Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 132, 43-49 (2012a); Lee et al., Analysis

of Dermatology, 60, 1-8 (2014)

of the microRNA expression profile of normal human dermal papilla cells

3. Cranwell et al., Male Androgenetic Alopecia. Endotext [internet], South Dartmouth (MA) (2000-2016); Mirmirani P. Age-related hair changes in men: Mechanisms and management of alopecia and graying. Maturitas, 80, 58-62

treated with 5α-dihydrotestosterone. Molecular Medicine Reports, 12, 12051212 (2015) 5. Cranwell et al., Male Androgenetic Alopecia. Endotext [internet], South

(2015); Pierard-Franchimont C., Pierard G.E. Les cheveux et leur environment

Dartmouth (MA) (2000-2016); Jain et al., Potential targets in the discovery

[Hair and its environment]. Revue Medicale de Liège, 70, 70-72 (2015)

of new hair growth promoters for androgenic alopecia. Expert Opinion on

4. Bahta et al., Premature Senescence of Balding Dermal Papilla Cells In Vitro Is Associated with P16INK4a Expression. Journal of Investigative


The active ingredient supports the biological

percent) and more resistant (95 percent), and their

| JUNE 2017 | P C Review

Therapeutic Targets, 18, 787-806 (2014); Trüeb R.M. Molecular mechanisms of androgenetic alopecia. Experimental Gerontology, 37, 981-990 (2002)

Male Grooming


facial hair first


Evonik has developed a unique and innovative formulation concept specifically designed for beard grooming needs. The new concept contains advanced formulations for the cleaning, conditioning and care of facial hair. ost of the shampoos and

formulation develops into a light foam

conditioners on the market

and gently dissolves dirt from head

professional assistance for new product

for men are made for head

and facial hair without dehydrating

developments, the selection of advanced

hair and not automatically

them. The formulation includes Tego

formulations and inspiring concepts

suitable for beards. Facial hair is thicker

Sulfosuccinate DO 75, which solubilises

for male grooming is currently being

and wirier than head hair, making it

oil and provides efficient foam, and

introduced on a global scale. ·

more likely to develop split ends. The skin

Varisoft EQ 100, which softens the beard

beneath a beard is also known to be

and skin.

As a source of inspiration and

Evonik –

particularly dry. With these needs in mind, experts at Evonik Personal Care have developed an inspiring selection of formulations

Table 1


male grooming.

extended all-in-one concept – a hair, beard and body shampoo and shower oil (See Table 1). This combines the benefits of a shampoo, beard grooming and shower oil. The caring oil

% w/w ad 100.0

Polyquaternium-10 A

Star product concept One of the main highlights is an

Ingredient/INCI name Water

and new product ideas for shampoos, conditioning lotions and on-trend oils for

Refatting balsam shampoo for beard, hair and body (UL 5761/67)


Sodium Laureth Sulphate, 28%


Tego Betain F 50 (Cocamidopropyl Betaine)




Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil



Varisoft EQ 100 (Bis-(Isostearoyl/Oleoyl Isopropyl) Dimonium Methosulfate


Tego Sulfosuccinate DO 75 (Diethylhexyl Sodium Sulfosuccinate)





Perfume ‘Beard Refresh’, Fragrance Resources



P C Review | JUNE 2017 |


Male Grooming

Customise for the unaccustomed

Men are still figuring out how to fit into the world of skin care and grooming. Peter Hays, associate analyst from GlobalData, says brands can do more to show them the way.


male consumers and normalise sophisticated grooming rituals. Brands cannot simply re-label existing products targeting women as being ‘for men’. Men have different preferences, concerns, and needs compared to their female counterparts. Brands

he male grooming market is a highly

traditionally positioned towards women will need to

dynamic category globally. Men’s toiletries

innovate in their values and products to win in this

including fragrances were valued at

space. Those that offer products that address male

US$30 billion globally in 2015. Men are

concerns in convenient, accessible, and masculine

increasingly image-conscious and becoming

ways will be able to capture the interest of this

accustomed to using personal care products,

consumer group.

59 percent of South African men, aged between 18 and 24, feel that social media has made them more self-conscious about their appearance

which drives increased true for South Africa

Social media and image-consciousness

too where the male

Almost half of male consumers globally between the

grooming category is

ages of 18 and 34 felt that social media had made

valued at US$315 million.

them more conscious about their appearance. This is

Local demand is

according to GlobalData’s 2016 survey.

spending. This holds

set to grow strongly,

Social media not only affects millennials, but also

depicted by a CAGR

consumers between the ages of 35 and 44 with over

of 6.1 percent over the

a third of these men globally feeling the same way.

2015 to 2020 period in

The potential for any moment to be captured in a

local currency terms.

photo and put on social media means one needs to

However, international

always ‘look good’. Even the act of scrolling through

brands may struggle to benefit from this growth as

social media sites invites comparison between

the weak exchange rate will dampen growth in US

oneself and friends, or celebrities – driving consumers

dollar terms. Nevertheless, this space holds significant

to actively take care of their appearance.

untapped potential. Although men globally are increasingly concerned

Young South African men are especially impacted by social media. Around 59 percent of South African

about their appearance they remain hesitant to

men, aged between 18 and 24, feel that social

develop complex skin care and grooming routines.

media has made them more self-conscious about

This is either due to lack of knowledge or because

their appearance. This generation, raised in an age

of stereotypes around male grooming. To capitalise

of globalisation and growing prosperity, has both

on this market, brands will need to educate

the social pressure and income to engage in more complex grooming rituals. By connecting with lifestyle bloggers, beauty vloggers, and other tastemakers, brands are learning how to capitalise on the impact of social media. By raising awareness through men like Mikey De Temple, a self-described photographer and surfer with 26 000 Instagram followers, Clinique for Men could connect with men in a seemingly organic way, normalising the use of its products. This is an ideal example of how tastemakers can help promote the idea that skin care is part of a stylish, masculine, and often adventurous lifestyle.

Men and their skin care needs This increased image-consciousness is also driving awareness around a number


| JUNE 2017 | P C Review

Male Grooming

of skin care concerns. According to GlobalData’s

products but brands can

2017 survey, the top five skin concerns for men

improve the ways they

globally are dry/flaky skin, skin elasticity/firmness,

appeal to men.

skin irritation/inflammation, sun damage and two-thirds of men globally being concerned about

Beard care offers the next dimension

these issues. Maintaining healthy skin and an even

There are some lessons

complexion is becoming a priority.

that can be learned from

dark circles or bags under their eyes with almost

Despite being increasingly aware of their

successful trends and

appearance, men have yet to fully embrace the

brands in male grooming.

steps to solve their concerns. The vast majority of

The trend in beard care

men surveyed are not currently buying products

is a prime example

that address issues such as dry and flaky skin, loss

of masculine image-

of elasticity of firmness, irritation/inflammation, sun

consciousness. Without

damage, and dark circles.

sacrificing their masculinity,

That is not to say that men aren’t interested in

men can engage in

skin care products, because nearly half of those

sophisticated multi-step grooming rituals

who say they are concerned about maintaining

designed to keep their beards looking both

skin elasticity or having dry skin say they would

healthy and stylish. An extensive beard care

consider buying products that address these issues

process might include a regular trim, a wash with a

in the future.

beard shampoo and a beard conditioner, beard oils

Brands must ask what is holding men back from buying products designed to address these concerns. Lack of knowledge and stereotypes

and styling wax or gel. The resulting well-kept beard is an expression of hygiene, taste and masculinity. It seems obvious that beard care products should

around male grooming are a few of the serious

be designed for men but the way many brands

roadblocks for the male grooming market. Men

approach targeted male personal care products

may be interested in grooming and personal care

is akin to trying to market a women’s shampoo

Tel 011 608 4944 Fax 011 608 4948 Email

Sensetek.indd 1

2017/03/02 11:50 AM

P C Review | JUNE 2017 |


Male Grooming

Michael Mikiala, a South African skin care brand for men, exemplifies a brand that addresses male-specific issues. Its range includes a bump lotion, which is designed to help men deal with ingrown hairs and razor bumps. Other products, such as its exfoliators, help promote an even complexion while claiming


as a beard wash product. Men seek products that are designed especially for them because it is both

darkened beard area’.

Instill comfort and Steps and products used in a beard care routine are ideal ways confidence in men to target men in other personal The future of male skin care is care product categories. These bright. Younger generations of products are directly marketed to male consumers are far more men, address a male-specific comfortable with using grooming condition, and balance hygiene and style. products than previous generations.

less emasculating and more effective. Three in five men globally agree they would

As this group ages, this comfort is likely to permit the growth of increasingly sophisticated

be more likely to purchase products specifically

grooming rituals and anti-ageing products.

developed for their gender (GlobalData’s 2016

Brands should seek to capture this interest early

survey). This is even more true in South Africa

on by targeting male consumers with tailored

where this figure increases to 71 percent.

solutions and subtle masculine claims.

Bulldog Skincare, a UK-based skincare brand

Bulldog attracted male consumers with its no-frills packaging

to ‘free ingrown hairs and brighten the

While this skin care market may never match

designed and marketed exclusively for men, is

women’s skin care in size, it still holds massive

evidence of the potential available to brands,

potential. A huge proportion of men are,

which can make men comfortable about buying

despite becoming more image-conscious and

skin care. Bulldog attracted male consumers with

aware of the quality of their skin, timid about

its no-frills packaging, solution-oriented claims,

buying personal care products. Brands could

and male-oriented message. According to

revolutionise this space by not only tapping

a 2013 industry interview with Simon Duffy,

into loyal consumers but also those who are

founder of Bulldog Skincare, within six years

becoming interested in, though not yet buying,

of its launch in 2007, the men’s skin care

personal care products. Brands need to open

was available in 12 countries across Europe

up the market by making them comfortable with

and Asia.

buying skin and body care products. They also

Men need products not only marketed to them but designed for their specific needs: razor bumps; facial hair; increased

need to make it clear that their needs are directly being addressed. Ultimately, newer brands can learn from

sweat production; dandruff; and thicker

successful beard care products – men want

skin requiring more exfoliation. These are

products that are tailored to their needs,

all issues that men’s personal care brands

solutions oriented, and

can target.

intuitively masculine. ·

ABOUT Prior to joining GlobalData as an associate analyst, Peter Hays completed an MSc in economy, risk and society at the London School of Economics. Hays has supported and managed consulting projects for some of the biggest global personal care brands. As a result, he has developed an in-depth understanding of brand strategies and consumers’ preferences.

GlobalData –


| JUNE 2017 | P C Review



June 2017 | Volume 43 | Number 6

Tube innovations and trends

Brand protection solutions Frosted effects for premium packaging


Packaging for your palette IN A DIGITAL era that powers personalisation and

Ongoing concerns surrounding the lucrative market

customisation, cosmetics and pharmaceutical manufacturers

of counterfeit products brings to your hands the security

leverage packaging to delight consumers. Customisation is

features for pharmaceutical and cosmetics products.

currently a hot topic with statistics pointing to an increase in

You can read about these on page 45.

consumer interest for product and pack personalisation. Customers expect better, personalised care products,

Yours in packaging.

which help them not only look younger, but feel healthier for longer. This specific focus is discussed in our tubes feature on page 43 where you can read all about innovations, trends

Assistant Editor

and user-friendly applicators.

TECHNOLOGY TO ACHIEVE GREATER DIFFERENTIATION DUPONT PERFORMANCE MATERIALS (DuPont) recently introduced innovative examples using its Surlyn ionomer resins to achieve a one-step frosted effect for cosmetics caps, bottles and jars. This effect is accomplished straight from the mould. It enables fine details, pleasant tactile quality and consistency without the need for a secondary process. The solar lamps will provide light for children to enable learning when its dark

Paper supplier lights up education ARJOWIGGINS GRAPHIC, A manufacturer

‘Brand owners are constantly looking for new ways to differentiate their offerings, and a frosted effect is a unique decoration that creates a sense of premiumisation in both the look and feel,’ says Jennifer Li, marketing leader: industrial and consumer, at DuPont. She says the company collaborates with industry partners to expand the possibilities of packaging design. ‘This is done so that designers can create packages straight out of their imaginations,’ Li adds. The unique properties of Surlyn enable it to copy the fine, intricate details of a mould to achieve a high gloss design with an entirely, or partially, frosted appearance. By applying this frosted effect in the mould, Surlyn offers increased production efficiency and lower cost for manufacturers looking to achieve this effect for their packs. It offers the transparency of glass without the fragility, and can

of environmentally friendly paper solutions, is

be frosted, faceted or finished to obtain special effects. It can

collaborating with Childfund Alliance to support the

also be coloured to create elegant translucency.

education of children in Mali.

Surlyn allows the use of many different decorative

For this year’s annual Cyclus campaign,

techniques for cosmetics. These include metallisation, hot

the company is helping to provide solar lamps

stamping and lacquering, as well as marbling, bubbling,

to children living in the villages where there is

glittering and suspended animations.

no electricity.

The glitter effect

The global ‘Light to Learn’ campaign hopes to raise awareness of Cyclus’s 100 percent recycled papers’ and first-rate environmental and ethical credentials. It calls on designers, printers, print managers and end users to watch a video highlighting this challenging issue which is featured


and only FDA-approved

eye irritation or an allergic

preservative-free ophthalmic

multidose delivery system

reaction because of certain

will fund a solar lamp for one child in the village. The

squeeze dispenser, containing

to handle prescription eye

preservatives in formulations.

intention is to provide 200 solar lamps by the end

cyclosporine ophthalmic

treatment formulations

These consumers appreciate

of the campaign. It started at the beginning of May,

emulsion, is now available in

without any preservatives.

that preservatives can be

and ends on 30 June.

the US prescription market.

The company is working

removed from eye care

The Restasis Multidose

closely with Allergan

medications with this new

Spain, Malaysia, China and the UK, this latest

product contains 0.05 percent

to improve patient

squeeze dispenser. The

initiative is part of the company’s ongoing

of cyclosporine ophthalmic

safety, achieve dosing

system is the result of more

commitment to fund the education of children in

emulsion by eye care

accuracy and maintain

than 10 years of development

less privileged parts of the world.

specialist, Allergan.

product integrity.

and experience in the

online at For every 25 video views, Arjowiggins Graphic

Launching globally in 35 countries, including

The campaign has been rolled out in South Africa by Papersmith & Son, a stockist of Cyclus.


| JUNE 2017 | Packaging Review

The launch makes Aptar Pharma’s dispenser the first

An increasing number of patients experience

delivery of preservative-free ophthalmic solutions.


Your gateway to tubes Innovative offerings play a key role in driving the demand for tubes. PACKAGING REVIEW delves into new innovations that provide the correct and accurate product dose, trends in the market and user-friendly applicators for low viscosity products. By Aarifah Nosarka DID


(Neopac) Spin’n’dose tube won


the 2017 World Star Award in the

Last September, Neopac

n 4 May, Hoffmann Neopac’s

The Stylo bristle tube for pharmaceutical products


and guarantees product

The functionality of tubes to protect the product and prevent spillage drives the preference of this type of packaging for cosmetics.

medical and pharmaceutical category.

launched two cosmetics

The innovative dispensing wheel doses

applicators, the Stylo Pipette

exact amounts from the tube when turned

and Stylo Liner. These ensure

180 degrees, without a pump.

precise or meticulous applications

protection. Described as an easy-to-use tube with a ‘stylo-look’, the packaging ensures product flow owing to its rotating function. The Stylo bristle is

available in polyfoil, coextruded

for liquid or cream products to the skin.

and polyethylene tube materials. The

and gels are measured out easily

They are specifically designed to apply

tube’s materials fulfill pharmaceutical

and precisely through the tube. After

low viscosity products.

requirements in line with the European

Semi-liquid products like creams

a minimal modification to the dosing system, the dispensing wheel is adjusted

‘Contents stay where they belong,’ says Schmid. The cosmetics applicators’

Pharmacopoeia, as well as regarding contact with foodstuffs according to EU

Buyer’sguide launch is followed by the recent

dosages of between 0.05 to one millilitre.

introduction of the Stylo bristle tube for


to supply new, precise, predefined

When selecting packaging materials, the dosage quantity for individual

pharmaceutical products.

‘Whether for antibacterial solutions,

No 10/2011 and FDA 21 CFR.

CHILD-RESISTANT POLYFOIL TUBES The desire for personal care products

formulations and substances can

scar treatment or oral or dental

tailored to a specific hair or skin type

be adjusted.

products, the brand new Stylo bristle

opens up many new possibilities in the

tube applicator supports the gentle

cosmetics industry. This ranges from

Neopac, says airless and pump tubes form

application of lotions, creams and gels

facial care to consumers’ involvement

a fixed and established component of the

on skin,’ she adds.

Cornelia Schmid, head of marketing at

company’s range of tubes. ‘It is difficult

The new tube provides the precise

to dose a larger amount in one go of any

application of liquid and low viscosity

cream or gel that is highly viscous. This is

pharmaceutical products. It is hygienic,

where our new Spin’n’dose can be used,’

has an easy-to-clean bristle applicator

she explains.

protected by a cone-shaped cap


The Stylo liner for cosmetics liquids or cream products


y r sg ye sgui Buyer’sguide

The directory for manufacturers of food, beverages, pharmaceuticals, cosmetics, toiletries, packaging and the printing industry


Available online: Packaging Review | JUNE 2017 |



Changes compel applicable offerings Industry categories such as skin care,

forms for application of natural as well as

skin glossing, face makeup, and more have

luxury cosmetics.

created growth prospects and investment

changing lifestyles of people and increasing

packaging market.

ratio of middle-class women. These days, the

Cosmetic tubes have proven to be an

The Stylo Pipette

The industry has evolved due to the

opportunities for the overall cosmetics

grooming trend is not restricted to women as

effective solution for delivering and dispensing

it continues to show growth among men too.

products for end use. Future Market Insights

Considerable changes in the market dynamics

reports that the global cosmetic tubes market

have compelled cosmetics packaging

is characterised by product offerings that

manufacturers to respond with effective

include tubes in laminated or transparent

product offerings.

An oval laminate tube for cosmetics

in product development and even new,

from aluminium barrier laminate and plastic

intelligent technology. The international

barrier laminate to Reflexion.

cosmetics industry has responded with

The tubes can be developed to include

various measures and products to this

intricate designs, realistic photo prints,

long-standing, popular trend. Leading the

matte or shiny effects, and multi-coloured or

innovation pathway, Neopac launched a

sophisticated metallic effects.

13.5 mm diameter polyfoil nozzle tube with a child-resistant closure. Kiehl’s, a brand owned by L’Oréal Paris,

Each tube comprises an almost invisible side seam owing to the company’s Perfectiseam technology, which is only

uses this packaging for its customisable

suitable for laminate tubes. There are

skin care range, Kiehl’s Apothecary

various cap and applicator options such

Preparations, available in the US. The

as flip top, screw top, nozzle and more. The

polyfoil tube has been designed to

company also has a digital platform, Albéa

accommodate highly concentrated

Mix&Match, which allows the user to create

formulas containing hydrocarbons, which

customised tubes virtually.

necessitates the demand for child-resistant closures on packaging. It further ensures


that contents are well protected.

Romaco’s new product line includes the release of a machine designed for filling


effervescent tablets into tubes. The launch of

Dorothée de Courson, marketing director

the Siebler STF 120 rigid tube filling machine

at Albéa Tubes, says the current cosmetics

expands the company’s packaging portfolio

trends are shiny tubes with metallic

for effervescent products. This redesigned

effects and intricate designs. There is a

system meets all requirements for the quick

demand for tubes that stand out on shelf

and easy cleaning of the tube filler. The

while at the same time preserve more

machine’s tablet conveyor belt in the feeding

delicate formulations.

area can be replaced in a matter of minutes.

‘These new aesthetic codes help beauty brands expand their seasonal collections and limited editions by providing pioneering, top quality, personalised products in very short time frames. This helps them stand out from the competition. Laminated cosmetics tubes are an ideal solution for beauty brands,’ says de Courson. The company’s laminate tubes include a large range of round or oval shaped offerings with diameters from 19 to 50mm for

The brand new Stylo Bristle tube applicator supports the gentle application of lotions, creams and gels on skin This automatic solution combines high speed production with optimal process control and premium quality. Fragile effervescent tablets are gently filled according to the rotation principle. Transfer modules with pick and place functionality permit the safe transportation of tubes through the packaging process. This enables high output and reproducibility. Only a small number of format parts are required to retool the machine. The Romaco Siebler STF 120 series is the ideal solution for large batches and blockbuster products. Many settings are completely independent of specific formats, like the adjustment of filling volumes or the ability to adapt to producing different tube lengths. Short tubes that are no more than 50mm in length can be processed and the safe handling of sensitive aluminium tubes is possible. The Romaco Siebler STF 120 achieves a maximum output of 120 tubes per minute. This is the result of tubes transferred to the filling station in clusters. Fragile effervescent tablets are filled with extreme care because of the rotation principle, which is suitable for all tablets with hardness down to 40 newtons. · Spin’n’dose tube

10 to 300mℓ filling capacity. There are different structures available for various barrier levels and looks range Metallic effects on plastic laminate


| JUNE 2017 | Packaging Review

Albéa – Hoffman Neopac – Romaco –

Security Features for Packaging

Prevent counterfeit proliferation Tamper-evident labels, high-tech security inks, and secure codes are increasingly used to prevent the lucrative counterfeit pharmaceuticals and cosmetics trade. PACKAGING REVIEW delves into developments in robust turnkey real-time monitoring solutions and secure packaging methods. By Aarifah Nosarka

BEGUILING ANTICOUNTERFEIT SOLUTIONS SICPA recently partnered with ION Equity (ION), a corporate finance firm in Ireland, to launch an anti-counterfeiting solution for over-the-counter medications in


Kenya. This was part of ION’s ‘Mydawa

lthough the pharmaceutical

elsewhere. Counterfeiting is like a virus

platform’, which aims to provide access to

industry has succeeded in

that attacks healthy, successful brands

quality medicines, while offering robust,

providing access to safe

and puts at risk the patients who rely on

effective authentication.

medicines, counterfeiting poses a life-

them for their health and well-being,’

threatening risk to that success. What

she comments.

The solution consists of two tamperevident labels using high-tech security inks. One of the labels has a serialised

makes the threat urgent is the expected rise in chronic diseases such as cancer,


smartphone-readable QR code and a

diabetes and heart diseases.

Greed is a key driver of counterfeit

scratch section concealing a unique

products. For ruthless criminals, the

secure ID code. To check if the medication

financial incentive is high.

is real or not, patients with smartphones

Counterfeiting is like a virus that attacks healthy, successful brands and puts patients at risk

‘Various sources estimate fake

can use the Mydawa app to read the

medicines and medical devices to

QR code. Patients without a smartphone

be worth between US$75 billion and

can scratch to reveal the concealed ID

US$200 billion per year,’ says Le Tadic. To

code, which they then SMS, or send via the

fi ght the scourge, she says it is important

platform’s website.

to address the root cause, as focusing on technology only is not effective.

About three years ago, the World

SICPA has identifi ed a holistic

Health Organization (WHO) estimated

approach, which is what makes the

that chronic diseases would account

company unique.

for 42 percent of deaths in sub-Saharan

‘The company provides an end-to-end

Africa by 2030. To manage chronic

risk-management process, which starts

illnesses, patients are required to take

with a full security assessment identifying

regular doses of treatments delivered

a company’s needs and risks. This is vital

using a medical device. The WHO

for identifying weak spots, especially

approximates that about eight percent

since many health care companies work

of medical devices sold worldwide are

with various partners along their value

fakes. As chronic diseases rise, so does

chain. An example of this is outsourcing

the risk of patients coming across fake

production to contract manufacturing

medications or medical devices.

organisations,’ she explains.

Fabienne Le Tadic, executive president

Combined with the high value of the

for product & brand protection at

products themselves, such complexities

SICPA SA says the need to act is urgent.

make pharmaceutical companies

‘The technologies to do so are on the

vulnerable to supply chain infiltration,

market. However, the true challenge lies

product tampering and counterfeiting.

Data gathered from instantaneous authentication using a handheld detector can be uploaded and aggregated on a secure inspection platform

Packaging Review | JUNE 2017 |


Security Features for Packaging

The solution offers traceability

a smar tphone Labels have code and QR ble da rea g on concealin scratch secti re ID code cu se e iqu a un


do not require the use of an expensive

of a medication, proof of origin

proprietary reader. Each particle is 100 to

of the product and peace of

200 microns or smaller in size with micro-

mind for the patients buying the

engraved lettering that are 10 to 20 microns

medication. The risk management

in size. It can include a company name

process does not end with design.

and other identifying information. Tracers

SICPA accompanies its clients

can also be formulated into the coating of

through the phase of system

a pill. To confirm the pill’s authenticity, the

deployment and all the way to

tracers are located using a black light and

performance monitoring.

can be read under a microscope. All the

‘We are especially attentive to

materials involved in the production of the

the needs of our pharmaceutical

tracers are safe and relatively chemically

clients. They operate under some

inactive. The particles can be included into

of the strictest regulations in the

or on pills, capsules, packaging and labels.

world. Knowing their challenges

Tracers are easy to identify, useful for

and constraints, we aim to

various purposes, reliable, regulatory

minimise the impact on the

compliant and can contain a

manufacturing process when

customisable message. ·

deploying and operating our security solutions,’ says Le Tadic. Real-time performance is vital in taking action against a counterfeiter. ‘Enforce

SICPA – Traceability Solutions –

your rights when you find someone trying to fake your product,’ she asserts.

CUSTOMISABLE TRACING SOLUTIONS Traceability Solutions offers secure

PLASTIWARD IS AN anti-counterfeiting

micro-engraved tracers, holograms,

measure that SICPA developed and launched

highly secure Pelta 2D codes, UV, DNA

in collaboration with Clariant. It is designed for

and IR inks, as well as track and trace

plastic medical devices and pharmaceutical

software platforms.

packaging. It aims to protect patients against

The company provides solutions of

counterfeit products. This turnkey system,

a class of anti-counterfeiting products

which offers in-product protection, enables

known as ‘tracers’ or ‘taggants’. Known as

company inspectors to check if a plastic

Secur tracers, these micro-sized particles

medical device is real or not. The data is

are added onto or within a proprietary

uploaded onto a secure inspection platform

product as a means of differentiating it

with real-time monitoring. By pooling this

from counterfeits or generics.

real-time field-inspection data, companies can

Gary Chilton, general manager

create a reliable picture and take speedy legal

at Tracepack says these tracers are

countermeasures if needed.

unique because they comprise food/ pharmaceutical grade materials and


| JUNE 2017 | Packaging Review

Micro-sized particles are added onto or within a proprietary product, which helps differentiate between counterfeits

Association News//


Generic and Biosimilar Medicines Southern Africa The National Association of Pharmaceutical Manufacturers (NAPM) has rebranded and changed its name to Generic and Biosimilar Medicines Southern Africa (GBM). The association – launched 40 years ago – continues to keep pace with global industry developments.


he GBM is the successor to the

says the logo is made up

NAPM and represents the interests

of various elements. ‘The

of generic and biosimilar medicine

outstretched arms welcome

manufacturers and marketers in South

like-minded pharmaceutical

Africa. The association’s mission is to

companies aligned with

champion greater access to medicine by

the association’s ethos. The

the South African population.

leaves illustrate the GBM’s

Gavin Steel says the 71 to 88 percent price reduction in hypertension medicine is one of the many successes achieved by generic medicines during the last 15 years

Gavin Steel, chief director at National Department of Health

aim for safe, affordable

(DoH), was also present at the

chairman of GBM, the pharmaceutical

and efficacious medicines

event. He led an interesting

industry has developed and changed

for patients in South and

discussion on various challenges

substantially over the years. ‘While

southern Africa.’

and successes within the South

According to Cipla’s Herman Grobler,

African pharmaceutical industry

manufacturing in South Africa hasn’t kept pace, and the NAPM has continued


and the generics sector. ‘Although our health

to change its focus from manufacturing

In South Africa, generic medicines have

care system has become fairly fragmented

and supply to also addressing the needs

allowed our country to have the most

as a lack of communication between various

of patients and their access to affordable

robust and accessible HIV programme in

entities and government, our cluster is

and quality medicines,’ he comments.

the world.

going to be turning the pharma sector on its

Over the past two years, various

Speaking at the event, Madeleine

international pharma industry

Bester from Mediscor, says there

associations representing the interests of manufacturers of generic medicines have changed their names and strategic focus to incorporate biosimilars. The NAPM has followed suite with its rebranding. Revealing the GBM’s new


launches,’ he explains.

has been a good increase in

Government has for long been saying

generic utilisation in South

that boosting local manufacturing is the

Africa over the past nine

South Africa has the lowest years. ‘The industry is priced ARVs in the world because making great advances of voluntary licensing and the use of because of increased generic medicines. As a result, one in four people in South Africa availability. The treatment now has access to treatment of HIV/Aids remains a and consumes muchsuccess area in the use of needed ARVs.

logo at a conference, which took

head in the coming months with a series of

generic meds with 73.9 percent

of medicines used in 2015 for

route to alleviating unemployment in the country. This is particularly true in the pharmaceutical industry, where there is immense opportunity for local production, yet packaging components and products are still largely imported. Steel explains, ‘At least 80 percent of the value of one generic product lies in its packaging, including the package insert.

place on 11 May at Blue Valley Hills

HIV/Aids treatment being generic,’

It makes no sense to import packaging

Estate in Midrand, Gauteng, Grobler

says Bester.

when we could be creating opportunities for

Herman Grobler and Vivian Frittelli, CEO of the GBM (formerly NAPM), revealing the new branding and logo for Generic and Biosimilar Medicines Southern Africa

She congratulated the NAPM on its

entrepreneurs in the packaging arena where

rebranding stressing the importance of

there is low barrier to entry. We need to adopt

biosimilars in driving down costs and

a vision that provides a conduit for young

increasing patient access to necessary

entrepreneurs to access the resources to

treatment. ‘Biological entities are very

establish local packaging businesses.’

expensive,’ comments Bester, ‘the average cost per patient is around R70 000 per year, sparking a definite

He believes the GBM is going to take health care in South Africa into the next era. Steel also mentioned the South African

demand for biosimilars to curb the high

pharmaceutical industry has world-class

costs associated with treating illnesses

regulatory standards, and is in the ‘same

like cancers.’

league as the US FDA’. •

P C Review | JUNE 2017 |


Association News//

Coschem heats up with golf, Google trends and a suppliers’ day in May SWINGING AND WINNING AT KYALAMI COUNTRY CLUB ON 16 MAY, golfers participating in Coschem’s 2017 golf day were greeted with clear blue sky and a beautiful sunny day. This year, the event returned to Kyalami Country Club in Midrand Gauteng, where 19 four balls took to the course to contest for the top spot. The winning four ball was Air Products, and the sale of the mulligans, totalling R3 350, was donated to TLC Children’s Home in Eikenhof, south of Johannesburg, which faced a harrowing series of robberies in November 2016. Ultimately, Coschem’s 21st golf day was an immense success, thanks to the association’s social committee, and the support from sponsors and golfers alike.

Children from TLC with Rohit Desai, who handed over the donation on behalf of Coschem


| JUNE 2017 | P C Review

Pierre Van Niewenhuizen, Cosmo Industrial’s sales director; Damian Swanepoel, Air Products’ distributor sales engineer; Lynette Gough from Cosmetic Ingredients (trophy sponsor); Kirsten Scott from Wacker and 2017 Coschem president; Jorg Scholz, Air Products’ business manager: distributors; and Andries Taljaard, Unique Welding Alloys’ key accounts manager

Association News//

2017 BEAUTY TRENDS REVEALED IF YOU’RE INTERESTED in skin care trends and consumer preferences in Japan, the US and France, Google has compiled a unique beauty trends report using search engine data. Entitled Think with Google Beauty Trends 2017, from Vantage provided insight into the highlights of this report at Coschem’s afternoon lecture on 12 May. The event, hosted at Evonik in Midrand, was exceptionally well attended. Be it Japan, France or the US – each market has distinct values when it comes to skin care. These range from a strong need in Japan to understand the science behind different beauty regimes and a keen appetite for trying new offerings in France and the US. ‘These trends are relevant to Africa as consumers on certain parts of the continent are influenced either by America or France,’ MacCallum explains. ‘Masks are leading in the US market; charcoal is also big. Skin bleaching however is on the decline, which is a major positive considering the damaging effects. The vegan trend continues to grow in prominence, and is even penetrating the fragrance segment with the recent launch of a vegan fragrance in France. There is

also a spotlight trend developing in cellulite related products, with the average French consumer 30 times more likely to search for these products than their American or Japanese counterparts.’ MacCallum took an in depth look at searches related to masks, and consumers’ top concerns associated with these beauty treatments. When asked why users are turning to masks, acne featured as the main reason. ‘To achieve dark lips contrasted with a light complexion, Japanese consumers are now using peel off lip masks to redden their lips,’ she adds. ‘Originally launched in Korea, sheet masks have migrated to France where they are now a popular choice to address acnerelated skin care concerns.’ MacCallum also urged attendees to search ‘masks’ on YouTube to see some of the interesting and bizarre online content related to the masking trend. ‘Masks-related video content on YouTube enjoy statistically high views, and on other

social media platforms like Instagram and Facebook, we’re seeing an increase in the use of skin care products. This could be attributed to social activity linked to masks where one can involve family and friends. In Japan, masks have migrated beyond the face with brands developing masks for hands and feet.’ Ingredients trends were also discussed with food related ones big in the US while plant-based ingredients are prominent in France. ‘However, Japanese consumers focus on quality ingredients,’ comments MacCallum. ‘Another interest search featured in the report is bath bombs for kids. Men’s skin care is also a theme to watch across all markets. Although male grooming appears to be seasonal, global players like Nivea are continuing to expand on their offerings for men.’ Kim MacCallum

INAUGURAL SUPPLIERS’ DAY A MASSIVE SUCCESS DRIVEN BY MEMBERS MEMBERS’ requests and industry need, the Society of Cosmetic Chemists (Coschem) hosted its first skin care actives suppliers’ day on 3 May. The inaugural event took place at its office in Johannesburg and saw around 90 people attending. Coschem member companies that supply skin care actives were invited to take part in the suppliers’ day, and no costs were involved in exhibiting. Exhibitors included BASF/ Botanichem, Carst & Walker, Evonik, IMCD South Africa/CLR, Merck, Millchem, Orkila, Savannah Fine Chemicals, Siyeza Fine Chem and Vantage Specialty Chemicals. One exhibitor said the event was an immense success, noting just how valuable it was to take part. Another

exhibitor was so impressed with the amount of leads generated at the first suppliers’ day. Every visitor to the skin care actives suppliers’ day was a quality one. They ranged from formulators and product developers to brand owners and manufacturers from the local cosmetics industry. The visitors loved the buzz and opportunity for interaction provided. They looked forward to forthcoming suppliers’ days hosted by the society. These types of events present the perfect opportunity for buyers and sellers to come together to exchange information of products and ideas for innovation. Coschem now has plans to organise suppliers’ days in Cape Town and KwaZuluNatal, to ensure formulators, developers, brand owners and manufacturers from across the country have access to the unique benefits of one-on-one interactions with suppliers to the industry. P C Review | JUNE 2017 |


Tea time

Crossword clues ACROSS 1. Evensong 5. Expressing much in few words 6. Result 7. Medical procedure 1

DOWN 1. Asinine 2. Legislator 3. Part of a broadcast serial 4. Stage set







Sudoku 6 9

9 2

3 8

3 2




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| JUNE 2017 | P C Review




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Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review June 2017  

This edition explores formulation ingredients for personal care and nutraceutical products, as well as sustainable development in the cosmet...

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