Page 1

AFRICA

Quarter 4 2017 | Volume 2 | Number 4

www.pharmacos.co.za

Combining African knowledge with worldwide expertise New ingredients for Ethnic hair care formulations Research findings drive developments in health products A fresh approach to multicultural beauty

PHARMACEUTICAL & COSMETIC REVIEW AFRICA


H&R AFRICA

BRINGING CLASS-LEADING PRODUCTS AND SERVICES TO THE AFRICAN CONTINENT. H&R has been bringing petrochemical product solutions to the markets for almost 100 years and in almost every part of the world. Innovation is at the heart of H&R. We commit ourselves to providing product solutions to the market by offering new and improved products aiming to exceed our customers' expectations. Partnership with our customers through long standing relationships assures that we have an understanding aabout our customers’ specific needs.

OUR PRODUCTS: • Petroleum Jelly • Waxes • Emulsions • White Oils • Agricultural Spray Oils • Base Oils • Process Oils • Specialty Chemicals • Cable Compounds

Quality and Consistency in everything we do means that our customers can Trust us for reliable delivery.

113 Trindad Road, Island View, Bluff 4052, South Africa | Tel: +27 (0)31 466 8700 | E-mail: sasales@hur.com

www.hur.com


AFRICA

NEWS

Quarter 4 2017 | Volume 2 | Number 4

www.pharmacos.co.za PHARMACEUTICAL & COSMETIC REVIEW AFRICA

CONTENTS NEWS

6 EUI report finds consumer goods powering growth in Africa

7 L’Oréal-UNESCO regional programme honours women scientists

8

TRANSPORTATION & LOGISTICS

16 Risks and responsibilities in pharma and cosmetics supply chains

17 Imperial Logistics receives revised license for bonded warehouse

Lab Africa expo sold to Messe München

EVENTS

9 Speakers announced for SAAFFI’s 2018 seminar

INDUSTRY TALK

11 An analyst’s view of Morocco’s return to the African Union

PHARMACEUTICAL FOCUS: CAMs, VITAMINS & HEALTH PRODUCTS 18 New scientific data proves the effects of tocotrienol complex

20 Infat formula ingredient improves infant health

21 Evonik innovates with omega-3 in powder format

ETHNIC CARE

12 Hair care inspirations from IMCD South Africa

14 Solutions to help rediscover the beauty of curls

15 Natural ways to care for the scalp and split ends

19

BEAUTY INNOVATIONS

22 Improve the signs of oily skin with Affipore active ingredient

24 Greentech fights pollution’s negative effects with Urbalys

26

Transparent iron oxides for Ethnic formulations

PACKAGING

Improve metabolic syndrome-linked conditions with Tocotrienol

12

27 How to speed up filling liquids and

TOP TRENDS set to boost hair care brands

Promoting a

bright future

for fragrances and flavours

avoid spillage

28 Introducing Dow’s Move It Safely concept 30 Upswing in manufacturing proves positive

09

for packaging

P C Africa | QUARTER 4 2017 |

3


PHARMACEUTICAL & COSMETIC REVIEW AFRICA

FROM THE EDITOR

THE TEAM

Meeting the needs

EDITORIAL Editor: Abby Vorster +27 (0)11 877 6038 abby.vorster@newmediapub.co.za Assistant Editor: Aarifah Nosarka +27 (0)11 877 6209 aarifah.nosarka@newmediapub.co.za Layout & Design: Kirsty Thomas

of aspirational consumers

R

egardless of where you are in the

Some of the newest advances in beauty

Contributor: Jean-Yves Berthon, E Bony, Carine Boutot, E Filaire, Edwige Ranouille ADVERTISING Sales Executive: Carla Melless +27 (0)83 260 6060 carla.melless@newmediapub.co.za Sales Executive: Anita Raath +27 (0)82 976 6541 anita.raath@newmediapub.co.za

world, consumer demand for quality

ingredients are discussed in the Beauty

goods is a reality. As populations grow

Innovations feature on page 22. These

Sales Executive: Candida Giambo-Kruger +27 (0)71 438 1918 candida.giambo-kruger@newmediapub.co.za

and living standards improve in Africa so

include a natural active ingredient that

INTERNATIONAL SALES

does the demand for better quality products,

diminishes enlarged pores and reduces

be they necessities or luxury goods. This is

sebum production, a berry extract that

particularly evident in the hair and beauty

stimulates pivotal barrier functions to

care and health products categories of the

fight the negative effects of pollution and

cosmetics and pharmaceutical industries.

transparent iron oxides that help overcome

All three of these categories come under the

formulating challenges when developing

spotlight in this edition of Pharmaceutical

foundations for darker skin tones.

Cosmetic Review Africa. Ingredients continue to drive innovation in the cosmetics industry and experts say

Various aspects of the packaging process are discussed in this edition’s Packaging feature.

Germany/Austria/Switzerland: Eisenacher Medien Erhardt Eisenacher +49 228 249 9860 info@eisenacher-medien.de Italy: Ngcombroker Giacomo Rotunno +39 370 101 4694 g.rotunno@ngcombroker.com Taiwan: Ringier Trade Media Sydney Lai +886 4 2329 7318 sydneylai@ringier.com.hk CIRCULATION Circulation Manager: Felicity Garbers +27 (0)21 701 1566 felicity.garbers@newmediapub.co.za

Ethnic consumers are more likely to identify

The experts from Omron look at how to

with ingredients they traditionally trust to be

avoid spillages when packaging liquids and

General Manager: Dev Naidoo

safe and effective. In the Ethnic Care feature

the positive impact this has on productivity,

on page 12, we look at the rise of the natural

while the Dow Packaging and Specialty

Publishing Manager: Natalie Da Silva +27 (0)11 877 6281 natalie.dasilva@newmediapub.co.za

positioning movement in Ethnic hair care

Plastics division hopes to improve load

Production Controller: Rae Morrison

products. This trend seems to be having a

security in Africa with its innovative film

Art Director: David Kyslinger

particular impact on the Ethnic hair care

packaging solutions.

JOHANNESBURG OFFICE

segment with brands and manufacturers

On behalf of all of us here at P C Africa,

showing increased interest in natural

I’d like to thank the industry, our

ingredients and actives inspired by nature,

readers and advertisers for

which meet the hair and scalp care needs of

their continued support in

African consumers.

2017. Have a good break

PUBLISHING TEAM

New Media Publishing, Ground floor, Media Park, 69 Kingsway Avenue, Auckland Park, 2092 Tel: +27 (0)11 877 6111, Fax: +27 (0)11 713 9024 POSTAL ADDRESS PO Box 784698, Sandton, Johannesburg, 2146 Published on behalf of Media24 by New Media Publishing (PTY) Ltd.

during the festive season,

MANAGING DIRECTOR

complementary medicines, vitamins

stay safe and enjoy

Aileen Lamb

and health products on page 18 shares

the read!

CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER

The Pharmaceutical Focus on

the results of a variety of new studies on several progressive ingredients. The first is a tocotrienol complex, which has been proven effective in managing the symptoms of metabolic syndrome. SN-2 plamitate is the second ingredient showcased in this edition for its effectiveness in improving the bone quality of infants.

Bridget McCarney EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR John Psillos NON-EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR Irna van Zyl HEAD OFFICE New Media House, 19 Bree Street, Cape Town 8001 Tel: +27 (0)21 417 1111, Fax: +27 (0)21 417 1112 Email: newmedia@newmediapub.co.za PO Box 440, Green Point, Cape Town 8051

ADVERTISERS’ INDEX CECOSA.............................................................7..........................www.cecosa.co.za Chem Systems..................................................24.......................www.chemsystems.co.za Cirebelle............................................................25.......................www.cirebelle.com Enna Industrial Ingredients.............................19........................www.ennaii.co.za GreenTech.........................................................OBC....................www.greentech.fr H&R South Africa..............................................IFC......................www.hur.com IMCD SA.............................................................OFC....................www.imcdgroup.com Nautica Organic Trading................................15........................www.nauticaorganics.com O6 Agencies.....................................................14........................www.o6southafrica.com Omron...............................................................27........................www.industrial.omron.co.za Savannah Fine Chemicals..............................23.......................sfc-info@savannah.co.za Symrise..............................................................IBC......................www.symrise.com

Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review Africa is published by New Media Publishing four times a year and circulates to manufacturers, packers and distributors of pharmaceuticals, health products, cosmetics, detergents, soaps, toiletries and allied products. The journal is an up-to-date source of reference for company directors, factory and production managers, marketing executives, engineers, import agents, buyers and research personnel. While precautions have been taken to ensure the accuracy of its contents and information given to readers, neither the editor, publisher, or its agents can accept responsibility for damages or injury which may arise therefrom. All rights reserved. © Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review Africa. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, photocopying, electronic, mechanical or otherwise without the prior written permission of the copyright owners. Pharmaceutical

Cosmetic Review Africa is printed by Tandym.

Copyright: all rights reserved. ISSN 0257-8719

4

| QUARTER 4 2017 | P C Africa


Top speakers confirmed for the P&C Review 2018

Beauty Trends& Innovations Conference

• Eight beauty and personal care experts in one inspiring day • One unmissable session on how to develop and sustain a social media strategy. Other topics to be presented at the conference: · Creativity in the workplace to drive innovation by John Knowlton – MD, Cosmetic Solutions · Compliance in the South African cosmetics industry by Percy Sibanda – scientific & regulatory affairs advisor, L’Oréal SA · Formulating for Africa’s millennials by Leandri van der Wat – R&D manager, Optiphi Date: Thursday, 22 February 2018 Time: 8:30am until 16:00 Venue: Media Park Auditorium, Auckland Park, Johannesburg, South Africa Book your seat today @ R995 per person including VAT You will receive a full breakdown of the day once you have booked and paid for your ticket as well as a breakdown of all the speakers. Send an email to Natalie.DaSilva@newmediapub.co.za for more information

PHARMACEUTICAL & COSMETIC REVIEW AFRICA


NEWS

AFRICAN ENTREPRENEURS LOOK TO GCC FOR MORE THAN JUST CAPITAL A NEW REPORT by the Economist Intelligence Unit (EIU), entitled Next-generation Africa-GCC Business Ties in a Digital Economy, explores the perspectives of young entrepreneurs and investors in Africa and the Gulf Cooperation Council (GCC) countries. It was sponsored by Dubai Chamber of Commerce and Industry and focuses specifically on building business relationships and spotting

ONLINE FX TRADING PLATFORM LAUNCHED FOR EMERGING MARKETS

opportunities in each other’s markets.

CROWN AGENTS BANK has launched an online foreign exchange trading

leaders in GCC countries are starting to look beyond the

platform – EMpowerFX – allowing clients to gain access to competitive prices

Middle East for business opportunities.

on both emerging market and major traded currencies. ‘Our OECD-based clients depend on our ability to offer a diverse range

An increasingly affluent and aspirational young cohort in Africa is driving a consumption revolution across the continent, increasing demand for consumer goods, technology and services. In parallel, young business

Africa remains a lesser priority market compared to the Middle East and Asia for GCC countries. However,

of hard-to-find and illiquid currencies, from the Belize dollar and Ethiopian

experts claim that understanding of the potential power of

birr to the Nepalese rupee, XAF, XOF and the Zambian kwacha,’ says Chris

Africa-Gulf market links is starting to tick up. There is room

Wilgoss, treasurer at Crown Agents Bank. ‘Our local commercial and central

for growing business ties between the two regions if key

bank clients in emerging markets also rely on us for access to G10 currencies.

hurdles can be overcome, including volatile currencies,

With access to quotes on over 500 currency pairs, EMpowerFX allows our

reluctant investors, the need to identify the right partners

clients to meet their FX needs – and enhances our role as a trusted digital

and data gaps.

banking partner.’ In addition to its API capabilities, key features of the web-based service

While the GCC is largely viewed as a source of capital by African

include real-time streaming access to competitive market pricing and

startups, GCC investors and

immediate tailored request-for-quotation (RFQ) facilities. Insights on all

businesses have a lot more to offer

trades and deals are available in historical trade blotters; histories can be

in the way of knowledge-sharing on

searched and exported to CSV format. Users are also able to personalise

operational and legal strategies.

their screen layouts, customise their profiles and can detach tiles detailing

The Gulf is also increasingly

their preferred currency pairs from the main dashboard in order to monitor a

becoming a destination for African

specific currency or compare particular currencies against others.

products and services. Increased

Comprehensive live market news feeds are embedded into the platform’s

access to the latest technologies

M elanie Noronha

layout, updating the user with global events that could affect market prices.

enables entrepreneurs in both

EMpowerFX provides direct links to Crown Agents Bank’s ecommerce client

regions to develop products and

management for timely help and support when needed. EMpowerFX secures

services that meet the needs of their local and

clients’ online accounts with built-in safety mechanisms such as automatic

regional markets, driving homegrown solutions.

logouts. The platform works on all common web browsers. ‘We are at home with working in diverse global markets and in particular

Melanie Noronha, editor of the report, says: ‘The growth of the middle class is driving demand for consumer focused

with providing competitive and reliable delivery of illiquid currencies,’ says

products and services in a diverse set of sectors including

Wilgoss. ‘Our history of operating across many of the smallest developing

retail, food, finance, education, health care and energy.

nations – especially in Africa and the Caribbean – dating back more than

This provides a host of new opportunities for regional

100 years gives us a unique edge. We can provide the crucial access other

investors, especially from the GCC, which have traditionally

banks may struggle with. Thanks to the modern, user-friendly EMpowerFX,

associated Africa with opportunities in commodities

built with our clients’ specific needs in mind, we can continue to help them

and infrastructure.’

adapt to a challenging, ever-changing FX environment.’

6

| QUARTER 4 2017 | P C Africa


The scientists were presented with the fellowships on 8 November at The Venue Greenpark during a prestigious awards ceremony Image courtesy of Xavier Photography

NEWS

COMMITTED TO HONOURING WOMEN IN SCIENCE THE 2017 EDITION of the L’Oréal-UNESCO

scientists and those who were celebrated

her project on the anticancer and

For Women in Science (FWIS) sub-Saharan

last year. ‘The world continues to face

antimicrobial activity of Moringa oleifera

Africa ceremony celebrated 14 young

unprecedented challenges such as climate

and Sutherlandia frutescens and

female scientists on 8 November at The

change, water scarcity, illnesses and food

their nanoparticles.

Venue Greenpark in Johannesburg,

security among other issues. Only a shared,

South Africa.

controlled science, at the service of the

of Ghana was one of the women scientists

As part of the programme launched

Augustina Frimpong from the University

world’s population, is able to meet the

who received the Doctoral fellowship of

in 2010, female scientists from across the

major challenges of the twenty-first century,

€5 000 towards her project on the analysis

region were honoured for their work and

and our researchers are the proof.’

of T cell receptor diversity in paediatric

impact in the scientific field. Their fields of

Charlette Tiloke from South Africa’s

malaria patients.

research vary across different disciplines

Durban University of Technology is

and address key global issues.

among the group of women scientists

Science sub-Saharan Africa programme

who received the Post-Doctoral

has reached many women across

regional fellowship of €10 000 towards

the continent.

Sandeep Rai, MD of L’Oréal South Africa highlighted the power of women

SHINING BRIGHT IN WEST AFRICA

The L’Oréal-UNESCO For Women in

THE ANNUAL INSTITUTE of

This particular award is dedicated to the best packaging produced in Africa,

Packaging SA (IPSA) Gold Pack

excluding South Africa. The Closeup packaging range has been designed to exhibit

Awards ceremony was held on 22

liveliness and freshness. Its metallic effects are designed to create a livelier, more

November at the Inanda Club in

attractive pack.

Johannesburg, South Africa. Gold, silver and bronze medals were

The Gold Pack Awards has since its inception in 1974 promoted and encouraged world-class excellence in packaging design and technology.

awarded to the top three winners in a number of categories. All entries achieving finalist status

and all medal winners qualify for entry into the international WPO WorldStar Awards. This year, the Star of Africa category gold medal winner was converter Nampak Cartons and brand owner, Unilever Nigeria for the Closeup herbal toothpaste packaging. This pack comprises special finishes on gravure printed packaging.

Helping you lay a strong foundation within the African market The value created will be able to translate into something tangible for your organisation. Theresa Möller, Executive Director +27 (0)11 450 1506 • theresa@cecosa.co.za

www.cecosa.co.za

P C Africa | QUARTER 4 2017 |

7


NEWS

NEW MODERN

TECHNOLOGIES UNPACKED

THE MARCHESINI GROUP recently revealed its latest solutions for packaging cosmetics and pharmaceuticals. These are the RSF 24 for ampoule filling and sealing, the BL A420 CW labeller and Turbomek 150 emulsifier. The RSF 24 can process up to 24 thousand ampoules per hour, guaranteeing perfectly repeatable and totally sterile filling and sealing operations. The filling unit can be easily dismantled and sterilised owing to its straightforward size changeover operation. The BL A420 CW is a new labeller for track and trace requirements developed by Neri, a branch of the Marchesini Group specialising in carton labelling and tracking machines. This solution can process up to 400 cartons per minute. The labeller is able to check the weight of each carton. It also verifies the position of cartons at all times with the simple integration of a load cell into the toothed belt system. If the weight is correct, the product undergoes subsequent processes such as serialisation, marking and sealing. It is then sent to the next machine. If the product weight is incorrect the subsequent processes are skipped and the carton rejected. The Turbomek 150 by Dumek, designed to process liquid and creamy products for the cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries has a capacity of 150ℓ. The product scope extends to emulsions, serums, oils, balms, gels and lotions. There are special versions of this machine, which are able to process other products such as make up, suppositories, hair dyes, toothpastes, mud products and shaving creams. The turbo emulsifiers and product fusers produced by Dumek, which are used to mix makeup products, cleansers, hair dyes, toothpaste, and shaving products will help complete the machinery range of the Marchesini Group and favour its expansion on the cosmetics marketplace.

MESSE MÜNCHEN

ACQUIRES LAB AFRICA THE GLOBAL TRADE show organiser has bolstered its portfolio for the growing African market by taking over Lab Africa – the only laboratory and analytics trade fair in South Africa which is part of the analytica trade fair network. The first Lab Africa under the Messe München banner will take place in Johannesburg (SA) mid-2019. CEO Reinhard Pfeiffer comments: ‘Through the acquisition, we are offering our customers in southern Africa a strong trade fair platform for market entry and development. This will allow us to drive increased exhibitor and visitor promotion in the region for analytica, the international trade fair that takes place in Munich every two years.’ Lab Africa has existed since the ’90s and successfully positioned by Orbes Media in the South African market. At the 2017 show, 109 exhibitors presented their innovations to 1 698 visitors from 12 countries. Michelle Coetzee from Orbes Media adds, ‘With its global sales network, industry contacts and know-how, Messe München offers a unique opportunity to expand Lab Africa within the analytica trade fair network as the leading trade fair for analysis, biotechnology and laboratory technology (ABL) for southern Africa.’ Presence in South Africa grants Messe

The Turbomek 150 is designed to process liquid and creamy products for the cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries

München access to the largest market for ABL within Africa. Health, nutrition and the environment are topics predominantly spurring the demand for modern lab solutions and contributing to above average growth in the industry. The ABL sector is expected to see worldwide growth between six and 11 percent Elaine Crewe says Messe München is expanding the scope of the technologyoriented events in South Africa and can exploit valuable synergies with its acquisition of Lab Africa

8

| QUARTER 4 2017 | P C Africa

in the coming years, according to the IBO 2017 Industry Forecast. ‘Lab Africa with its focus on technology will be seamlessly integrated into the already existing conference structure,’ says Elaine Crewe, CEO of Messe München’s subsidiary in South Africa. ‘Lab Africa is a valuable addition to our South African trade fair portfolio alongside existing trade fairs bauma CONEXPO AFRICA, IFAT Africa, and food & drink technology Africa.


EVENTS

Promoting a bright future for fragrances and flavours

The countdown has started to the 16th annual South African Association of the Flavour & Fragrance Industry (SAAFFI) seminar, scheduled for 6 March at the Bytes Conference Centre in Midrand, Gauteng, in South Africa.

E

ach year, the fragrances

200 key personnel from the flavours

and flavours industry

and fragrances industry; FMCG

in southern Africa,

companies, that use flavours and

including those allied to

fragrances in their products; as

it, such as suppliers of ingredients,

well as academics, consultants,

equipment and services, anticipate

regulators, raw materials suppliers

the announcement of the

and anyone interested in

seminar details.

the fascinating world

The theme for the 2018 seminar is ‘Motion of no confidence – promoting a bright African future for the flavour and fragrances industry’. The programme will

DID YOU KNOW?

of fragrances and flavours. The day offers a

Out-of-town delegates valuable learning are encouraged to use the and networking Gautrain transport system opportunity to get to the seminar venue. This will alleviate any to people in concerns they may have management, regarding peak sales, marketing, hour traffic.

examine many of the

technical,

procurement, R&D,

synergies and positive factors that

applications, operations and even

make the future of the industry in

tertiary level students.

Africa an exciting one. The full-day programme features

Addressing relevant topics of newsworthy interest and

an impressive line-up of speakers,

confronting thorny business issues

a hands-on workshop, an inspiring

have always been the guiding

motivational presentation and a

principles of the organising

frenetic lifestyle offers personal

networking cocktail event. Not-to-

committee. Looking back at the

benefits, which can be translated

be-missed presentations include:

successes of previous seminars, in

• the story behind exotic raw

2015 the seminar themed

materials harvested in the wilds of

‘Back to the Future’

northern Namibia

investigated the trend

• how the industry can help

of reverting to outdated

alleviate the water crisis currently

technical and business

plaguing South Africa, and Cape

practices as a means of

Town in particular

making progress; 2016 saw

• an honest assessment of ‘how to do business in Africa’ • the latest fragrances and flavours trends.

NETWORKING AND INFORMATION SHARING

the seminar addressing important emergent trends within Africa, centred on the theme ‘One Africa: demonstrating the tastes and aromas of our continent’. The 2017

into an advantage at work.

THE PROGRAMME WILL EXAMINE MANY OF THE SYNERGIES AND POSITIVE FACTORS THAT MAKE THE FUTURE OF THE INDUSTRY IN AFRICA AN EXCITING ONE

‘This industry event offers so much for so many,’ says Sharon Bolel, assistant executive director of SAAFFI. ‘Those who attend are sure to take away added skills, useful information and a solid dose of careeroriented motivation. An additional attraction is the jam-packed goody bag which each delegate takes home at the end of the day.’ Visit www.saaffi.co.za/

For the last 15 years, the SAAFFI

seminar, themed ‘Fast Forward to

events for more information and to

seminar has attracted around

Slow’, showed how pausing one’s

book your seat for the event. •

P C Africa | QUARTER 4 2017 |

9


DIARY 2018

AFRICA

PHARMACEUTICAL & COSMETIC REVIEW AFRICA

2018 SUBSCRIPTION FORM To ensure you receive a copy of P&C Review Africa each quarter, please complete this coupon and return it, together with your payment to: Circulation Department, NEW MEDIA PUBLISHING (Pty) Ltd, PO Box 440, Green Point, Cape Town 8051 Tel +27 21 701 1566. Fax 086 529 6468.

WHAT'S ON IN

2018

January Plastex

18 to 21 January New Cairo Exhibition Centre, Egypt www.plastex-online.com

Cosme Tokyo 24 to 26 January Makuhari Messe, Japan, Tokyo www.cosmetokyo.jp/en

Full Name:...........................................................................................

Aerosol & Dispensing Forum

Designation: ........................................................................................

31 January to 1 February Porte de Versailles, Paris, France www.aerosol-forum.com/en

Company: ........................................................................................... Postal Address:...................................................................................

February

.................................................................Code:................................. Country: .............................................................................................. Tel: (

)....................................... Fax: (

) ..................................

E-mail:.................................................................................................

P C Review Beauty Trends & Innovations Conference

Main activity of company:...................................................................

22 February Media Park, Johannesburg, SA www.pharmacos.co.za

Approximate number of employees: .................................................. VAT No: ............................................................................................... Signature:............................................................................................

Professional Beauty London

Method of payment:

25 to 26 February London ExCeL, UK www.professionalbeauty.co.uk

Direct Deposit (Fax this form together with a copy of your deposit slip to: +27 086 529 6468 Payee: Bank:

Acc No:

New Media Publishing (Pty) Ltd .

Nedbank Seapoint

1069321540

Branch Code: 10-69-09-00

Expiry Date: ................................................................................

March

Card Number: .............................................................................

Nigerian Raw Materials Expo

CVC Number...............................................................................

13 to 15 March The Landmark Centre, Lagos, Nigeria www.nigeriarawmaterialsexpo.com

Credit Card (Mastercard & Visa only) Name of card: .............................................................................

Date: ........................................................................................... Signature:....................................................................................

Cosmopack

TAX INVOICE REQUIRED

(Please tick) SOUTH AFRICA

(PRICES INCLUDE VAT @ 14%)

10

Propak East Africa 27 February to 1 March Kenyatta International Conference Centre, Kenya www.propakeastafrica.com

FOREIGN

1 YEAR

R312.00 ❑

R392.00 ❑

2 YEAR

R510.00 ❑

N/A

| QUARTER 4 2017 | P C Africa

15 to 18 March Bologna, Italy Fair District www.cosmoprof.com/cosmopack

Cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna 16 to 19 March Bologna, Italy Fair District www.cosmoprof.com


INDUSTRY TALK

Welcome back, Morocco!

After more than 30 years, Morocco has been readmitted to the African Union. Euromonitor International reveals the positive impact re-linking Morocco with Africa will have on manufacturing, trade and policy.

I

n a report entitled Morocco’s

is due to a stable political

Return to the African Union,

environment, increased

Euromonitor’s lead analyst for

government efforts in

Middle East and Africa, Fatemah

incentivising foreign

Sherif and research analyst for MEA,

investors and improvements

Lea Meyer reveal that the ease of

in infrastructure.

trade between Morocco and Africa

The premise of Morocco

DID YOU KNOW?

Cote d’lvoire, one of Africa’s fastest growing economies, is expected to show a seven percent Ethiopia, Tanzania, average real GDP growth between Rwanda, Ghana, 2017 and 2022, following Ethiopia Senegal and and Senegal. The country also has strong ambitions to become a Mauritius, with which regional energy hub for Africa, Morocco already has as well as to diversify into some bilateral trade the retail sector. agreements that will be

will boost production and exports.

serving as a regional financial hub

Increase in consumer goods trade

for the rest of Africa, particularly with

between Morocco and Africa will

its aggressive diplomatic policy,

imply strong growth for industries,

including integration of the country

sub-categories of manufacturing in

ranging from pharmaceuticals,

into multiple trade unions, are

Africa are chemicals, transportation

packaged food and apparel to

underlying factors likely to continue

automotive and tourism.

to boost the economy.

With Morocco’s strong

intensified, thanks to its return to the AU. Some of the most important

A TREND TOWARDS ‘MADE IN AFRICA’ IS LIKELY TO EMERGE

equipment, textiles and apparel, and they are industries in which Morocco has invested

Middle East, it is expected to act

LEADING INDUSTRIES IN AFRICA

as a gateway for the rest of Africa

North Africa, Nigeria and east Africa

to potentially distribute products.

represent the biggest contribution

The country could also benefit from

to the GDP growth in Africa. East

being the key hub for African trade,

African countries such as Ethiopia

for foreign companies targeting

while a trend towards ‘Made in

are becoming attractive investment

African markets is likely to be

Africa’ is likely to emerge.

locations for manufacturing and

among the most important. •

relationship with the EU and the

Between 2011 and 2016, Morocco

and improved. Ultimately, the reintegration of Morocco into the AU holds many positives – driving the development of a stronger manufacturing hub

services. The Ethiopian government

showed the highest value CAGR for

has promoted the development

exports in Ethiopia with 50 percent,

of industrial parks focusing on

followed by South Africa and

pharmaceuticals, textiles, leather

Swaziland with 49 percent. Ethiopia

and agro-processing. This forms

has shown a high acceleration

part of its ‘Vision for 2025’ to make

in agricultural demand, where

the country a light manufacturing

Morocco serves as a key supplier of

hub in Africa. Manufacturing sector

chemicals. In addition, South Africa

development is key to Africa’s

has continued to be a good export

economic growth as a whole and

destination in the African region,

will be a key sector for increasing

subsequent to Europe.

employment. However, it remains

Morocco is expected to post the

an untapped growth opportunity.

strongest real GDP growth in Africa

Most of the manufacturing output

over the forecast period between

in Africa comes from north Africa,

2017 and 2022, at approximately

South Africa and Nigeria. The

four percent, followed by sub-

countries expected to undergo

Saharan Africa at 3.5 percent. This

rapid industrialisation are Kenya,

P C Africa | QUARTER 4 2017 |

11


ETHNIC CARE

TOP TRENDS

set to boost hair care brands treatments, brushing and combing are set to trend, as well as the use of bond multipliers to protect against damage and improve treated hair. Bond multipliers, such as FiberHance from Ashland, can be incorporated into a shampoo to build and maintain hydrogen bonds. They can also be formulated into a pre- or post-conditioner treatment that rebuilds and repairs hair. These include disulphide and hydrogen bonds like Granrepair PowerBond from Grant Industries. In order for brands to be seen as successful in damage repair, they need to promote protection, durability and proof of claims. Mild formulations are also growing in hair care, particularly when damage protection is concerned. Micellar shampoo and conditioner

IMCD South Africa looks into its crystal ball, sharing new inspirations for the future of hair care.

B

providing ‘make your own’ kits, which

will appeal to consumers with the

encourage consumers to create

growth of micellar in skin care.

their own hair care cocktails. These

The industry is also likely to see

kits can be modified over time,

more hair primers. These create the

depending on seasonal changes,

optimal base for colour application

ased on research from

hair types and/or the condition of

and protect it, so colour lasts longer

global marketers Mintel

one’s hair.

and is more vibrant.

and Euromonitor, a variety of new developments are

expected to impact the African hair care industry in the next two years. The individualism and customisation trend is growing among consumers who prefer to make their own remedies, mixing up concoctions of natural oils, including almond, olive and coconut oil, adding them to existing products to make them their own.

It is said brands that can harness

Another innovative segment is pre-

speed, instant gratification, identity

shampoo treatments. These products

diversity (customisation) and

promise to lock in moisture and

BRANDS THAT CAN HARNESS SPEED, INSTANT GRATIFICATION, IDENTITY DIVERSITY AND PERSONALISATION WILL LIKELY ATTRACT CONSUMERS

Online tutorials continue to be a huge hit among millennials. This consumer group uses this type of

personalisation will

offer protection to hair and scalp, as

likely attract consumers.

well as help with scalp exfoliation to

The brands that don’t

promote hair growth.

recognise and cater individual needs will be

SPOTLIGHT ON SUSTAINABILITY

less successful.

Water scarcity is a reality in Africa,

to the demand for

Social media is also

with many countries facing water

set to be used more to

shortages. Reducing consumption

boost developments in

and waste is a must, so brands

the hair colour segment,

should consider looking at ways

with tutorials helping

to limit water usage in a hair care

consumers achieve professional

regime. Leave-on products, those

colour looks at home.

that include ‘stop the water while using me’ on their packaging

and catch up on the latest hair

SOLUTIONS FOR DAMAGED HAIR

care tricks and techniques. Brands

Products that address daily damage

the stream will aid in promoting this

are responding to this trend by

caused by heat styling, chemical

key trend.

content to achieve certain looks

12

| QUARTER 4 2017 | P C Africa

or shower heads that switch off automatically when one is out of


ETHNIC CARE

ingredients as cleaner, safer and

apps and virtual reality to

dry and waterless shampoos

Brands can also innovate with

purer. Biotechnology is set to give the

grab consumers’ attention.

that are massaged into hair and

naturals segment a boost to allow

According to GMSA Mobile Africa,

rinsed, without using water, by

for more synthetic naturals to be

in August 2016 more than

towel-drying the hair. A perfect

introduced to market. More synthetic

half a billion people across

product is Akzo Nobel’s Dry Mousse

naturals will allow for cost-effective

Africa subscribed to mobile

Shampoo formulation (see Table 1).

natural hair care products that are

services. The company also

Dry shampoos not only offer oil

free from allergens etc.

reported that smartphone

absorbency and a refreshed look,

Already a hot skin care trend,

connections in Africa are set to

but also add volume and styling

probiotics will influence the hair care

triple in the future, rising from 226

benefits. They can be used to revive

category in a big way, improving

million in 2015 to 720 million in 2020.

and protect hair colour.

scalp health by providing protection

As most consumers live their lives in

Another hot trend is to tap into

from the growth of harmful

new sources of water for cosmetics

bacteria and promoting

products, like the birch water trend

hair growth. In Africa,

in K Beauty. For hair care products,

hair care brands

watermelon water is an exciting

should use probiotics

option while banana water, which is rich in vitamin C, potassium and magnesium, is a great raw material for hair products. Using fruit waters also gives brands a healthy natural, foodie positioning in addition to the commercial appeal. Recycling and sustainability are on everyone’s radar. As a result, brands are placing increased emphasis on their packaging to make it easy to

sync with mobile technology,

DID YOU KNOW?

and like to order anything with a click, brands should find ways to sync

The hair care market in Africa is traditionally nondominated by a few international in their products digitised products players and well-established regional vendors. The growing presence of brands to regulate with online stores. such as South Africa’s Amka has added to microflora on the Examples would the competitive nature of the market. The scalp, preventing be a hair brush challenge for manufacturers is to build the dandruff and that assesses hair right matrix of wholesale distribution and a flaking while quality and shares direct sales network. The vendors in the market compete on the basis of factors creating an optimal this data with an such as price, quality, innovation, environment for app, hair curlers service, reputation and hair growth to flourish. and straighteners that distribution. Source www. The majority of skin care measure the severity of technavio.com. products currently on market

split ends, or interactive kiosks

recycle. The use of refills or a returns

which claim ‘probiotics’ are

programme as well as disposable

formulated with Lactobaccilus. This

consumers the opportunity to express

formats derived from plant

is not live bacteria but rather lysates,

and explore different hair styles and

materials that decompose easily

such as Pro-Renew complex from

colours etc.

are among the growing options

CLR. There are currently only a few

available to consumers to meet their

hair care products with probiotics

in Africa and worldwide, there is a

sustainability needs.

on the market, providing immense

need to strike a balance between the

opportunity for hair care brands

online and offline experience. •

Consumers will pay more for a cause that improves living

For brands and retailers to succeed

to expand.

standards, fair pricing, training and conservation. Examples from IMCD

and tips via touchscreen to give

Retail is also set to change in

IMCD South Africa – www.imcdgroup.com/ worldwide/south-africa

the future. Brands should look at

South Africa include Jan Dekker organic Argan oil that is produced by a cooperative of women, or Star

Figure 1: Dry Shampoo Mousse 2609-59

Ingredient

INCI

%w/w

Deionised Water

Water (Aqua)

66.20%

Celquat H-100 ploymer

Polyquaternium-4

0.75%

Deionised Water

Water (Aqua)

4.00%

Elfacos GT 282S rheology modifier

Ceteareth-60 Myristyl Glycol

0.75%

Crodateric CAB 30 (30% active)

Cocamidopropyl Betaine

1.00%

Xiameter OFX-0193 Fluid

PEG-12 Dimethicone

0.25%

Arquad PC SV—60 PG surfactant (60% active)

Soytrimonium Chloride (and) Propylene Glycol

0.45%

notoriously difficult to re-use due to

50% Citric Acid Solution

Citric Acid (and) Water

0.05%

degradation, but by working with

Microcare SB

Sodium Benzoate (and) Potassium Sorbate

0.30%

various partners, Head&Shoulders

Ethanol 99.9% Den. 1:2

Alcohol Denat.

10.00%

Dry-Flo TS starch

Tapioca Starch (and) Polymethylsilsesquioxane

5.00%

Purity 21C Pure starch

Zea Mays (Corn) Starch

1.00%

Magnesium Stearate NF FCC Kosher

Magnesium Stearate

0.25%

Aeron A-31

Isobutane

10.00%

Shea Butter from a rural Ghanaian community. Head&Shoulders Limited

Phase 1

Edition demonstrated the idea of turning waste into sustainable products by using recovered beach

2

plastic to produce the shampoo bottle for this range. Plastic coming from the marine environment is

3

found a technically revolutionary way to integrate 25 percent of this

4

plastic into its packaging.

THE NEXT FIVE YEARS The green trend is here to stay as consumers perceive natural

5

This formulation effectively refreshes hair without using water. It also offers great hair manageability and builds volume

P C Africa | QUARTER 4 2017 |

13


ETHNIC CARE

Rediscover

the beauty of curls

A

s women around the world

including Africa, are resisting the pressure to

reject externally imposed

straighten hair and liberating their curls.

beauty ideals, the industry is paying attention to the

emerging curl pride movement. As a result, DSM Personal Care (DSM) has created new conditioning formulations that put the pleasure back into curl care. These are available throughout southern Africa from Chempure. The formulations are based on consumer insights sourced by DSM’s researchers from

FEMINIST AND AFRO MOVEMENTS ARE SHAPING AN INCLUSIVE, CULTURALLY DIVERSE BEAUTY LANDSCAPE Ingredients’ suppliers are called on to

women in three culturally diverse regions

embrace and support this trend towards

of Brazil. What they found was a growing

natural, personalised styling. Chempure,

movement that is empowering women to

through its association with DSM, can

see past externally imposed beauty ideals.

empower consumers with in-home mixes

Feminist and Afro movements are shaping

that encourage experimentation, or specific

an inclusive, culturally diverse beauty

solutions for individual hair types, and with

landscape, and hair is playing a key role in

products that enable women to achieve the

these developments. Women everywhere,

curls of their dreams.

14

| QUARTER 4 2017 | P C Africa

PROMOTING CURL POWER DSM’s cushion curl mousse proves that curls can be soft. It defines and maintains curls, even in humid conditions, while its cushiony texture makes the product pleasant to apply. Ingredients from DSM’s portfolio enhance the conditioning effect. Tilamar Quat 2241 conditions, bringing a soft touch to hair and stabilising foam. Added vitamins provide scalp care while moisturising and strengthening hair fibres, and the UV filter, Parsol MCX protects hair colour. The curl defining cream conditions, protects and styles hair for a natural look that keeps curls moving. The formulation is infused with care ingredients, including Phytantriol and D-panthenol for strength, heat protection, split-end protection and moisturisation; Parsol SLX for colour protection and to defend against structural damage; Argan oil for shine enhancement and Phytaluronate PF for moisturisation and a light, permeable visco-elastic film. •

Chempure – www.chempure.co.za DSM – www.dsm.com/personal-care


ETHNIC CARE

Protecting hair the

natural way

The native collagen film forming capability of Hairdensyl Complex Hair and scalp care is a big concern in protects the hair and scalp against harmful environmental aggressors Africa. There is a growing demand for such as UV rays from the sun. The ingredient increases hair volume, leaves hair feeling soft and has shampoos and conditioners developed a stimulating effect on the hair follicle which helps promote hair growth. for multicultural and Hairdensyl Complex is also suitable for use in reducing hair Ethnic hair types. loss. It strengthens the hair and increases the diameter of DID thin hairs. Botanichem looks YOU KNOW? It can be formulated in shampoos and lotions Hair care is a lucrative industry in at new natural for devitalised, dry, scaly and weak hair as well as Africa. The natural hair movement is ingredients to aid gaining momentum on the continent in conditioners to protect the hair. Due to it only particularly among millennials who having one active ingredient that has many claims, natural hair growth choose to wear and maintain their natural Hairdensyl Complex helps with inventory control. hair as opposed to wearing extensions and and protect the Red onion extract and Hairdensyl Complex are weaves. Celebrities such as Kenya’s Sarah hair and scalp. Hassan, South Africa’s Pearl Thusi and both produced by Cobiosa, which is represented

T

here is a rise in demand for hair products like dry shampoos and cleansing

Nigeria’s Asa have helped create throughout southern Africa by Botanichem. • popularity around women wearing their natural hair while looking chic and modern. Source: Botanichem – www.botanichem.co.za www.africa.com Cobiosa – www.cobiosa.com

conditioners, formulated with

natural oils and butter, which focus on antiageing and colour retention. Red onion extract is a great natural ingredient for scalp and hair health and can be used in various cosmetics products. It has a long history of traditional use owing to its sulphurcontaining compounds, disulphides and trisulphides, which form part of the main active substance in onion extract – phytochemicals. The sulphur in red onion extract helps increase blood circulation in the scalp. Due to its anti-bacterial properties, the extract also reduces skin inflammation. It leaves the hair stronger, cleans the blocked pores of hair follicles and helps prevent scalp infections like dandruff. The increased blood circulation and clearing of hair follicles makes it an effective hair growth stimulant. Another component of phytochemicals is Quercetin, which is known to be a potent free-radical scavenger and has anti-oxidant and anti-microbial capabilities. This means that the skin and hair are provided with protection against oxidative processes.

A SOLUTION FOR SPLIT ENDS AND SCALP CARE Weak and damaged hair is a daily reality for most people. Damaged hair strands will eventually split, leading to the common concern of split ends and frizzy hair. Hairdensyl Complex is suited to the care of thin, devitalised and weak hair. This hair treatment ingredient helps repair and strengthen the hair structure by supplying hair with nutrients. The complex is a great all-rounder for hair care. It works to give volume back to the hair and contains honey extract, which helps hair and scalp remain hydrated even when exposed to the elements.

P C Africa | QUARTER 4 2017 |

15


TRANSPORTATION & LOGISTICS

Realise the risks,

know the shared responsibilities

Protecting the integrity and security of health care and cosmetics products in transit demands stringent procedures and processes. Companies operating within these industries must foster innovation in all areas, but most critically within their supply chains.

B

idvest Panalpina Logistics (BPL) has a global infrastructure designed to handle highly sensitive

THE CRITICAL FACTORS

There are special procedures in

Despite the increasing popularity

place to get temperature controlled

pharmaceutical and cosmetics cargo. From

of ocean freight, airfreight remains

freight off the aircraft first and then

dedicated planes fitted with cooling systems

the preferred mode of transport for

moved into temperature controlled

to high security, temperature controlled storage, BPL

health care and cosmetics, using

environments at warehouses. Yet

guarantees product quality, treatment efficacy and,

Johannesburg, South Africa, as a

Naude says there is always a risk

ultimately, patient safety.

hub into the rest of Africa. Regulatory

factor of exposure in summertime

The company manages the shipments of life-saving

changes demand more financial

temperatures, especially on the

equipment, pharmaceutical drugs and cosmetics for

investment, which places additional

tarmac at airports. ‘If a temperature

various clients in South Africa and sub-Saharan Africa.

stress on the bottom line for shippers.

logger shows an excursion in the

Annette Naude, BPL’s business development manager,

It is important for health care and

temperature the product is tested at

explains: ‘Servicing the health care and cosmetics

cosmetics companies to choose the

laboratory level to ensure its integrity.’

industries is challenging and intense. These products are

correct supply chain partner, which

vulnerable and sensitive in terms of time and temperature

will continuously evaluate innovative

control. Rising expectations and regulation changes

solutions and monitor various modes

HELPING SMALL BUSINESSES TO GROW

have definitely guided and improved the quality of

of transport to ensure high value,

BPL works with a number of SMEs

supply chains transporting today’s health care and

temperature-sensitive products are

in the health care and cosmetics

cosmetics products.’

delivered to their final destinations

industry, helping them to participate

without being compromised.

in international exhibitions and

BPL’s facility situated at OR Tambo International Airport in Ekurhuleni, South Africa, is TAPA-A and GDP certified as

‘Shipping high value cargo in

well as ISO 9002-2014 compliant. Temperature controlled

Africa remains a challenge. Secure

freezer rooms cater for products like vaccines requiring temperatures of -22 to -25°C, as well as products requiring cold storage at two to eight degrees Celsius or ambient controlled storage at 15 to 25°C.

BPL’s facility at OR Tambo

DID YOU KNOW?

lane risk assessment is very often overlooked, especially when shipping health care and

cosmetics products,’ Time-sensitive imports says David Bell, head of include products like radioactive materials for chemotherapy security at BPL. and spare parts for hospital Another critical machines. These need to be factor is packaging. delivered immediately so BPL must ensure dedicated solutions for Naude explains: such shipments. For example, a ‘Goods travel through dedicated person must be on many temperatures, call for the duration of a especially in Africa. shipment, both day and night. Globally, many cosmetics companies are focusing on

contributing to their development and growth. ‘We do this through South Africa’s Department of Trade and Industry, the Cosmetic Export Council of South Africa as well as the Small Enterprise Development Agency, with whom we are a registered service provider,’ Naude adds. Because value-adding activities are becoming more complex and with health care and cosmetics product volumes increasing year on year, BPL took a strategic decision to have dedicated staff who handle only pharmaceutical, health care

the quality of packaging as it has

and cosmetic products. There is also

become apparent that if shipments

very strict security at its facilities and

are packaged correctly it will

staff dealing with pharmaceutical

eliminate problems.’

products are well trained. ‘We offer a great service but it all boils down

An inside look at a Panalpina pharmaceutical warehouse

to risk and responsibility, something that needs to be shared among all stakeholders in these challenging and demanding industries,’ she concludes. •

Bidvest Panalpina Logistics – www.bpl.za.com

16

| QUARTER 4 2017 | P C Africa


TRANSPORTATION & LOGISTICS

World-class

pharmaceutical bonded facilities in Africa Imperial Health Services’ facility in Kenya

Imperial Logistics was recently awarded a revised license for its pharmaceutical bonded warehouse located in Centurion, South Africa. This enables the company to better serve customers and patients across the continent.

O

ver the past 10 years, the

import products that are

faster and provide for

Imperial Logistics bonded

unregistered in South Africa,

medicines and health care

warehouse has operated within

and to store these, on

products to be delivered

the South African Medicines

condition that the products

more cost-effectively. They

Control Council (MCC) license exclusions,

will be exported and are

allow for the consolidation

which restricted the warehousing activities to

not for local consumption,’

of products with similar

certain donated antiretrovirals. ‘Following the

he adds.

recent lifting of these restrictions by the MCC,

Pharmaceuticals and

packaging for smaller markets, which are not

Ian Barton

the revised license will extend the benefits of

medical device products

our model. This will enable Imperial Logistics

unregistered in South

to provide additional services to our clients

Africa may be stored in Imperial Logistics’

and optimally serve patients across the

bonded facility for six months, which

Because of the license, Imperial Logistics’

continent, whether through commercial,

can be extended for an additional three

clients will be able to manage Portuguese

donor-funded or government channels,’

months at a time at the discretion of SARS.

packs from South Africa to Angola and

says health care strategy executive, Dr Iain Barton. The Imperial Logistics warehouse is

IMPROVED SOLUTIONS FOR BETTER HEALTH CARE

registered in South Africa, as well as for late nationalisation of pharmaceutical products.’

Mozambique, French packs to Frenchspeaking Africa, and Arabic packs to the Middle East.

currently one of only two pharmaceutical

In addition to the facility in South

bonded facilities in South Africa. Outlining

Africa, Imperial Logistics has another

African bond store as a route to market,

the function and benefits of a bonded

pharmaceutical bonded warehouse

our pharmaceutical partners are able to

warehouse, Dr Barton explains: ‘Also known

located in Tema, Ghana, which was

supply southern African countries, which

as a customs and excise warehouse, a

launched in 2006.

have shorter registration periods, with new

bonded facility enables companies to import

‘Imperial Logistics’ strategically placed

Dr Barton elaborates: ‘Using the South

products while the product is still in the

and store products destined for exportation

bonded pharmaceutical facilities deliver

without declaring or clearing them through

significant benefits for our health care

customs or paying import duties and levies.’

partners. They provide the ability to keep

warehouses reflect Imperial Logistics’

This process is managed through the South

stock as close to the point of consumption

well-earned reputation as Africa’s leading

African Revenue Service (SARS).

as possible, which reduces procurement/

health care supply chain partner. They

order-delivery lead times and ensures

also show the company’s commitment to

these do not attract duties and levies, but

patients have uninterrupted access to life-

constantly expanding diverse capabilities

the MCC and regulatory authorities around

saving medication,’ says Dr Barton.

and solutions in order to enhance access

‘In the case of health care products,

the world do not allow the importation of

For the company’s health care clients,

unregistered products into their respective

the bonded warehouses will improve

countries. Imperial Logistics’ pharmaceutical

and accelerate distribution and offer

bonded facility, which is registered with SARS

cost benefits.

and the MCC, enables our pharmaceutical industry partners to easily and efficiently

‘The bonded facilities will enable our clients’ products to reach patients

registration process in South Africa.’ The pharmaceutical bonded

to products and enable clients’ growth. •

Imperial Logistics – www.imperiallogistics.co.za

P C Africa | QUARTER 4 2017 |

17


PHARMACEUTICAL FOCUS//CAMs, Vitamins & Health Products

Improve metabolic syndrome-linked conditions with Tocotrienol

The body of science supporting EVNol SupraBio in the management of metabolic syndrome is increasing and deserves attention. ExcelVite reveals some of the new findings on the proven protective effects of this tocotrienol complex. available are related to those

compared to tocopherol – in many

treating symptomatic diseases

of the health aspects reviewed.

such as cholesterol lowering drugs, Dietary supplements have been

RESULTS OF A NEW STUDY

used in an attempt to ameliorate

The most recent findings are

metabolic syndrome.

published in study conducted

anti-hypertensive drugs, etc.

by Monash University, which

VITAMIN E FAMILY EXPLAINED

several metabolic syndrome-

and bio-enhanced natural,

related conditions after four weeks

full spectrum palm tocotrienol

of supplementation.

H

are a group of risk

factors contributing to cardiovascular diseases and diabetes.

conducted the study on 21 rats

enhancement in bioavailability

randomised equally into three

of each individual tocotrienol

groups, named ‘control diet’, ‘high

isoform1. It is a second generation

fat diet’ and ‘TRF’. The control diet

tocotrienol complex and

group was given a low fat diet,

an extension of EVNol palm

while the high fat diet and TRF

tocotrienol extract from non-GMO

groups were given high fat diets for

Malaysian crude palm oil.

eight weeks to induce metabolic

the vitamin E family. Similar to

and insulin resistance

the tocopherols, tocotrienols

DID YOU KNOW?

consist of four parts: alpha; beta; gamma and delta isoforms. Structurally, both

Metabolic syndrome is very tocotrienol and common in residents of north western Nigeria – and is more common in commonly referred tocopherol possess females than males. There is an urgent to as metabolic a chromanol need for mass public health education syndrome. head attached to reduce the potential complications of It has been shown to a carbon side the risk factors for metabolic syndrome. that controlling and chain. Tocotrienol These risk factors should be detected in normal individuals to implement maintaining healthy has three double effective preventive measures. levels of blood glucose, bonds in its side chain Source: www.panafricanblood pressure and lipid whereas tocopherol med-journal.com. This group is now

profiles reduces the risks

of cardiovascular diseases, especially in diabetic patients. Apart from diet and lifestyle modifications, medical treatments

18

| QUARTER 4 2017 | P C Africa

Researchers at the university

an average 250 percent

Tocotrienols are members of

hypertension, obesity

beneficial effects in improving

EVNol SupraBio is a patented

complex that guarantees

yperlipidemia,

shows that EVNol SupraBio has

has a saturated tail. Many

studies have suggested that this polyunsaturation contributes

syndrome. Subsequently, the TRF group was supplemented for four weeks with 60mg/kg of a tocotrienol-rich fraction of palm oil (Tocovid SupraBio full spectrum palm tocotrienol complex, which contains ExcelVite’s EVNol SupraBio), delivered in a 10 percent glucose solution. The control and high fat diet groups were given just the 10 percent glucose solution for four weeks. At the end of the experiment, the rats underwent 12 hours’ fasting prior to euthanasia with carbon dioxide. Blood and tissue samples were collected, processed and analysed. Researchers found that eight

to the unique and more potent

weeks of high fat diet induced

effects of tocotrienol – when

full blown metabolic syndrome


PHARMACEUTICAL FOCUS//CAMs, Vitamins & Health Products

COMPANY SNAPSHOT EXCELVITE, BASED IN Malaysia, is the largest global producer of natural full spectrum tocotrienol and tocopherol complex (EVNol and EVNol SupraBio), natural mixed-carotene complex (EVTene), phytosterol complex (EVRol), and red palm oil concentrate (EVSpectra). The company is the only tocotrienol producer that operates according to the GMP (PIC/S) Guide to Good Manufacturing Practice for Medicinal Products. Its laboratory is also accredited with ISO/IEC 17025.

in the rats, including diabetes

health, and is therefore worth

show EVNol SupraBio bio-enhanced

mellitus. The subsequent TRF

further investigation.

palm tocotrienol complex is

supplementation for four weeks was able to: • reverse hypertension,

beneficial for maintaining a healthy

GOOD FOR GREAT HEALTH

cholesterol level, supports healthy blood pressure and improves fatty

hypercholesterolemia and

‘The study provides exciting results

liver, which collectively may reduce

fatty liver

in addition to the potent antioxidant

the risk of metabolic syndrome,’

property of tocotrienol, which

he adds.

• inhibit protein glycation to reduce glycated haemoglobin A1c

plays an important role in

(HbA1c) and advanced glycation

restoring antioxidant capacity

end products (AGE)2

and attenuating oxidative

• restore antioxidant capacity and

stress in metabolic syndrome

THE STUDY PROVIDES EXCITING RESULTS

ExcelVite’s products, including EVNol SupraBio, are available throughout southern Africa from Enna Industrial Ingredients (Enna

reduce myeloperoxidase activities

condition. For the first time,

that may lead to oxidative stress.

it reveals the suppression

more information on tocotrienols

On the other hand, the researchers

of glycation by EVNol SupraBio

and their positive health benefits. •

did not observe significant results

bio-enhanced full spectrum palm

in relation to visceral fat deposit,

tocotrienol complex, which may

glucose level, plasma triglycerides

reduce glycated haemoglobin and

or peroxisome proliferator-activated

AGE in the liver,’ says Bryan See,

alpha and gamma expression.

business development manager

Based on these favourable findings, the researchers

at ExcelVite. The company is delighted with

concluded that TRF may

this new finding and research

have potential for metabolic

development in metabolic

syndrome therapy especially

syndrome. ‘It mirrors the findings

on cardiovascular and liver

of our earlier human studies that

II). Visit www.tocotrienol.org for

REFERENCES: 1. Ho, D et al. Drug delivery system: formulation for fat soluble drugs; US Patent No. 6,596,306. 2. Cheng HS, et al. (2017). The ameliorative effects of a tocotrienol-rich fraction on the AGE-RAGE axis and hypertension in high-fat-diet-fed rats with metabolic syndrome. Nutrients, 9(9). doi:10.3390/nu9090984

Enna II – www.ennaii.co.za ExcelVite – www.excelvite.com

Purveyors & Distributors of innovative Speciality Chemicals and Food & Beverage Ingredients.

Available in SA through the official supplier:

Enna Industrial Ingredients CC

P.O. Box 1926, Randburg 2125 | Phone: 011 791 1309 | e-mail: info@ennaii.co.za | www.ennaii.co.za

Enna.indd 1

2017/12/06 8:47 AM

P C Africa | QUARTER 4 2017 |

19


PHARMACEUTICAL FOCUS//CAMs, Vitamins & Health Products

Closer to

mother’s milk

The demand for infant formula containing SN-2 palmitate (Infat) – an ingredient that mimics the fatty acid profile in human milk – has soared over the past decade and will continue to grow. Advanced Lipids shares the latest developments on this nutritional ingredient.

I

DID YOU KNOW?

nfat allows formula manufacturers to

on quality and have

offer many benefits that are closer to

high awareness

mother’s milk. This SN-2 palmitate fat

of the benefits of

ingredient has been clinically proven

SN-2 palmitate.

in several studies, done both in Israel

Ronald van der Knaap,

Palmitic acid is the most abundant saturated fatty acid in human milk, where it is primarily located in the SN-2 group scored higher position. Mimicking this special on parameters such as fat structure, SN-2 palmitate humerus length. Values (Infat) is added as a key relating to bone quality ingredient in infant also seemed higher in formulas all over the world. the Infat group, although

and China, to increase fat and calcium

CEO of Advanced Lipids,

absorption, improve bone matrix quality

says: ‘In 2007, Enzymotec and

and stool consistency and positively

AAK made the decision to join forces.

affect the development of the intestinal

As a company that is looking into improving

microbiome. Studies have also shown Infat

infant nutrition, we saw a great opportunity

expression in the two groups and found that

improves the well-being of babies and the

in this game-changing ingredient that

three genes in the liver showed an increase

quality of life of their parents by reducing

supports formula manufacturers to replicate

in the Infat group. They say these may be

crying time and increasing sleep duration.

the benefits of mother’s milk as closely as

associated with growth and development in

possible. Over the past decade we’ve been

the epidermal growth plate.

Advanced Lipids markets and sells the product, which is commercially available throughout Africa and subject to regulatory status. The company is a joint venture between Enzymotec and AAK, and is celebrating its 10th anniversary this year. At the end of 2007, when Advanced Lipids was founded, five infant formula brands incorporated Infat.

AT THE END OF 2007, FIVE INFANT FORMULA BRANDS INCORPORATED INFAT. TODAY, THAT NUMBER HAS RISEN TO OVER 150

Today, that number has risen to over 150.

part of the huge growth in

the difference did not reach statistical significance. Researchers also analysed gene

Commenting on the findings, Dr Sigalit

the infant formula market

Zchut, chief scientist at Advanced Lipids,

and witnessed soaring

says: ‘Infat is already a well substantiated

demand for high-end

structured fat for infant formula with multiple

products containing

clinical studies proving its benefits for

SN-2 palmitate.’

infant nutrition. However, as an innovative

SUPPORT FOR BONE GROWTH

company, Advanced Lipids is testing its benefits in other fields. This study is exciting because it shows that SN-2 palmitate may

Recently, researchers set

have a beneficial effect on the length

out to explore the effect

and quality of bones of mice subjected

that SN-2 palmitate has

to food restriction, followed by nutrition-

on the length and quality

induced catch up growth. Though this is

of bones in a catch-up

a pre-clinical study, its implications may

growth model. After restricting the diets of

be important, especially for children with

two groups of rats, one group was fed with a

growth disorders and children with special

almost tripled since 2006 and currently

diet enriched with Infat and the other with a

nutritional needs.’ •

has a retail value of over US$40 billion, with

standard diet.

The global market for infant formula has

China accounting for 45 percent retail value

Weight gain was similar between the two

(Euromonitor International, September

groups and there were no adverse effects

2016). Consumers in China place a premium

from either diet. However, rats in the Infat

20

| QUARTER 4 2017 | P C Africa

Advanced Lipids – www.advancedlipids.com


PHARMACEUTICAL FOCUS//CAMs, Vitamins & Health Products

New omega-3 powder for dietary supplements Evonik has launched AvailOm, a high concentration omega-3 lysine complex that exhibits excellent bioavailability and stability.

D

eemed by Evonik as the

Fishy reflux can be prevented

highest load omega-3

by combining one of Evonik’s

powder with a minimum

Eudraguard polymer coatings.

of 45 percent EPA

A single, small tablet made

and DHA by weight, AvailOm is

from AvailOm offers the equivalent

designed to reduce the number

omega-3 fatty acid dosage of two

of daily dosage forms. Dr Ludger

large fish oil capsules. As a result, it

Eilers, who is responsible for

is a convenient way to meet global

advanced food ingredients within

health care recommendations of

Evonik’s health care business

several hundred milligrams of EPA

line, explains: ‘With AvailOm,

and DHA per day.

EPA and DHA are absorbed as for enzymatic conversion. The

USED ALONE OR IN COMBINATION

friendly, solid and powder

bioavailability of our product is

The fish oil raw material used

dietary supplements.

therefore three to five times higher

to create the high-quality

than traditional fish oil capsules

omega-3 lysine complex is

containing liquid omega-3

sourced from carefully

ethyl esters.’

selected suppliers

free fatty acids; there is no need

Conventional soft gel capsules

while AvailOm is

are expensive to produce, yet they

manufactured in

do little to protect their contents

Europe to high

against aggressive gastric acid.

quality standards.

This can lead to the unpleasant

The powder has

fishy reflux characteristic of many

proved to be

omega supplements currently

extremely stable

on the market. In contrast,

and easy to process

AvailOm powder can be efficiently

in all tests.

compressed into compact tablets that are easy to swallow.

In addition to being

DID YOU KNOW?

With the launch of AvailOm, Evonik continues to expand its portfolio

The global omega-3 of advanced food supplements market is expected to ingredients, which is reach USD 57.07 billion by 2025. This one of six innovation significant growth is likely to be attributed growth fields where to urbanisation and government efforts the enterprise is to educate consumers and provide superior health care services. In addition, focusing its efforts. increased consumer willingness to The portfolio spend more on health supplements includes naturally is anticipated to provide a positive occurring ingredients outlook for the omega-3 with scientifically supplements market. Source: Research and Markets proven health benefits,

cleared for sale in the USA (both NDI and GRAS), Evonik is

as well as nutraceutical coating technologies that help

pursuing registration in Europe and

ensure the health ingredients are

other markets.

released in the human body at the

It is suitable for use as a standalone omega-3 tablet or capsule,

right time and location. Evonik showcased AvailOm,

or in combination with other

as well as its other products and

ingredients, such as vitamins, to

formulation development services,

produce a variety of consumer-

at SupplySide West, which took place in Las Vegas, USA, from 25 to 29 September. More than 15 000 visitors attend the show, making it one of the most important annual events for buyers and suppliers in the global nutraceuticals market. •

Evonik – www.evonik.com

P C Africa | QUARTER 4 2017 |

21


BEAUTY INNOVATIONS

Diminish

ENLARGED PORES AND EXCESS OIL Affipore is a pore refining active ingredient from Provital Group, which is represented throughout southern Africa by Savannah Fine Chemicals. It reduces sebocyte differentiation and lipid synthesis as well as the amount of sebum secreted, improving the signs of oily skin.

E

nlarged pores and oily

These problems, related to oily

reducing and refining enlarged and

skin are prevalent skin

skin, make enlarged pores even

visible facial pores, mattifying shiny

problems in men and

more visible.

patches and eliminating an oily and

women of all ages and

shiny look and feel.

estimated that between 66 and 75

NATURAL ACTIVE TARGETING SEBUM

percent of adolescents between

There are compounds in nature

TRIED AND TESTED FOR EFFICACY

the ages of 15 and 20 are affected

that act as total or partial

To demonstrate the efficacy of

ethnicities. Several studies have

by this problem. Enlarged and visible pores are mainly caused by excess sebum and

aminopeptidase N (APN) inhibitors.

DID YOU KNOW?

For example, some flavonoids can carry out this inhibition, in addition to inhibiting

Buchu is native to South triglyceride de novo Africa and endemic to the increases with age. synthesis, contributing rocky, mountainous parts of the They can also to the ultimate goal Western Cape. The buchu used be derived from of reducing sebum. to produce Affipore comes from other factors such The South African dedicated cultivation areas located as a hormonal plant, Barosma in South Africa, which promote the imbalance, stress, conservation and propagation betulina (Buchu) of species native to Africa, lack of sleep and is rich in flavonoids. providing a sustainable pollution. Enlarged pores The flavonoid Diosmin, source of natural are mainly found on the its main secondary products. skin sagging, which

forehead, nose, cheeks and

metabolite, can act as APN

Affipore, its effects on the cellular production of lipids were evaluated. To this end, it was necessary to use a human sebocyte culture, since these are the cells that synthesise and release the lipids that go on to become part of the sebum. However, due to the complexity of the method for obtaining human sebocyte cultures, there are no good in vitro models currently commercially available to perform this process. As an alternative, Provital Group’s in-house sebocyte experimental

chin, where sebum production

inhibitor (Kiss, 2005; Bormann, 2000;

model was developed from

is greater.

Parellada, 1998).

epidermal progenitor cells (HPEK).

Excess sebum on the skin is

Affipore is obtained from the

These cells normally act as

caused by the exaggerated activity

leaves of Buchu. This active

keratinocyte precursors, but they

of sebaceous glands, which

ingredient inhibits the action of

are in an undifferentiated state that

leads to irregular skin texture,

APN in the sebocyte membrane

allows them to create other cell

imperfections and shiny patches.

by blocking the peptide-induced

types located in the skin.

stimulation of APN. Figure 1: Quantification of the number of triglycerides by colourimetry at day 15 (lipogenesis stage). Data normalised versus protein content

22

| QUARTER 4 2017 | P C Africa

For the in vitro test, HPEK were

This triggers a

incubated in a specific medium

series of cascade

and culture conditions to allow

reactions within

their differentiation into sebocytes.

the cell, reaching

This process simulates the natural

the nucleus. This

process that takes place in the

results in inhibition

sebaceous glands. On completion,

of differentiation

the sebocytes were characterised

and the amount

both visually and biochemically to

of sebum secreted

verify their correct differentiation.

by the cell. By

Visual characterisation of cells by

decreasing the

immunofluorescence confirms the

final amount of

efficacy of the culture medium in

sebum on the skin

the differentiation from HPEK into

surface, there is an

sebocytes. The cells were already

improvement in all

visually different at day seven. In

signs of oily skin,

sebocytes, some of the production


BEAUTY INNOVATIONS

of neutral lipids could already be seen at day seven, though it became more

placebo formulations

apparent at day 15 with its accumulation

were applied twice

in lipid vesicles. Affipore produces a lipid reduction

daily for 28 days The sebum regulating

of approximately 54 percent when

effect of the tested

incubated during the first days of

formulations was

sebocyte differentiation, implying a

determined by

regulation mechanism for this process.

comparing the

In addition, a 69 percent decrease in

sebum content on the

lipid levels is observed after incubation

skin surface, before

with the already differentiated sebocytes

and after 28 days

from day seven (see Figure 1). These

of treatment.

results demonstrate a modulating effect on sebocytes.

Figure 2: Average values of sebum secretion obtained by sebumetry in the initial state (D0) and after 28 days of Affipore use (D28)

• either the Affipore or

Sebum index quantification was performed using photometry with

sebum were documented in relation

imperfections by balancing sebum

a Sebumeter SM 815 (Courage and

to baseline values obtained at D0. The

secretion. In order to evaluate its in

Khazaka), at D0 and D28, so that the

active ingredient showed an average

vivo efficacy as a sebo-regulating and

higher the sebum content detected,

sebum reduction of 13 percent and up

pore-reducing active ingredient, a

the higher the value obtained. The

to 42 percent. The difference between

comparative assay with the following

experimental area of these measures

the active ingredient and the placebo

protocol was carried out:

was a perfectly defined space on the

was statistically significant at the end of

• 20 Caucasian female volunteers with

forehead of the volunteers.

the study. •

Affipore mattifies skin and reduces

oily skin, aged between 35 and 70 • Affipore at three percent applied on one half of the face •a  placebo formulation was applied on the other half

The improvement percentages (average and maximum improvement and the improvement corresponding to the first quartile) of Affipore versus the placebo on the amount of secreted

Provital Group – www.provitalgroup.com Savannah Fine Chemicals – sfc-info@savannah.co.za

®

THINK BEAUTY? THINK KAHLWAX. KahlWax offers a great variety of natural waxes for decorative cosmetics such as mascara, eyeliner and eyeshadow. Take a closer look at KahlWax – for solutions and services which meet your requirements exactly, and for ingredients that truly fulfill consumer wishes, such as beautiful-looking eyes. KahlWax. The ingredients for beauty. www.kahlwax.com

sfc-info@savannah.co.za | www.savannah.co.za

2017-03 Ad_P&C Mai_KahlWax.indd 1

07.11.17 11:33

P C Africa | QUARTER 4 2017 |

23


BEAUTY INNOVATIONS

Next level

pollution protection Greentech has developed a powerful anti-pollution skin protector, Urbalys, using an extract from berries. The active ingredient stimulates pivotal barrier functions to fight the negative effects of pollution. By Edwige Ranouille, E Bony, Carine Boutot, Jean-Yves Berthon and E Filaire

A

Upon ligation by PAHs and PM, the activated AhR translocates from the cytoplasm into the nucleus (see Figure 1). This translocated AhR binds to its specific DNA recognition site, the xenobioticresponsive element, and upregulates the transcription of responsive genes, such as cytochrome P450 family 1 member A1 (CYP1A1). Besides its physiological role in the detoxification of dioxins, the activity of CYP1A1 can be deleterious as it generates mutagenic metabolites and ROS 4. Endogenous defense mechanisms include specifically the nuclear factor erythroid 2–related factor 2 (Nrf2)

ir pollution is considered a

skin diseases and skin ageing2. PAHs and

pathway, which is activated in order

main characteristic of areas

PM are also well-established to activate

to fight the deleterious effects of all

where human population

the aryl hydrocarbon receptor (AhR)

pollutants on skin and plays a role in

density is at a high level1.

pathway, increasing ROS production3.

skin homeostasis and renovation5.

It contains a quantity of microscopic suspended particulate matter carrying toxic chemical molecules, including

Figure 1: PAHs and particulate matter induce ROS generation and pro-inflammatory cytokines. ROS generated by CYP1A1 stimulates the production of TNF-α and IL-8

polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs). Air pollution has been recognised as the most significant environmental health issue in the world. Particulate matter penetrates the skin, either through hair follicles or transdermally, and exerts its detrimental effects through the generation of reactive oxygen species (ROS), which contribute to skin ageing. This is characterised by pigmentation on the face and wrinkles. ROS activate the mitogen-activated protein kinase (MAPK) signaling pathway, including ERK1/2, JNK and p38 MAPK. The activated MAPK then induces various transcription factors, such as Nuclear Factor Kappa B (NF-kB) and activator Protein-1. As a result of translocation of the activated transcription factors, inflammatory cytokines are generated. These are closely related to inflammatory

Fision® EcoLatum S A NATURAL ALTERNATIVE TO PETROLATUM

FEATURES

ADVANTAGES

BENEFITS

Natural & botanically derived

High affinity with skin lipids for great emolliency

Excellent alternative to petrolatum

Suitable for use with all skin types

Increases skin smoothness

Contains wholesome skin conditioning ingredients Suitable for COSMOS/Ecocert formulations

Viscosity building effect

INCI: Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil, Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Copernicia Cerifera (Carnauba) Wax

WHOLESOME • NATURAL • SOFTEN Chem Systems.indd 1

24

| QUARTER 4 2017 | P C Africa

Creates intensive, moisturized feel

Shonna Twynham, Product Manager Mobile +27 (0)79 372 0761 | Tel +27 (0)11 922 1830 Email shonna.twynham@chemsystems.co.za www.chemsystems.co.za

2017/12/12 8:00 AM


Figure 2: NF-kappa B cytoplasm and nucleus expression after urban pollution, extract from S.C., or co-treatment with urban dust and S.C. extract. *** p< 0.001 versus urban pollution

BEAUTY INNOVATIONS

Nrf2 regulates a variety of antioxidant

chinensis (S.C.), the Chinese magnolia-

in skin’s parameters, such as radiance

enzymes, such as NQO1, thioredoxin or

vine, has a long history in traditional

and luminosity.

heme oxygenase-1 and several phase I

Chinese herbal medicine and has been

and II drug metabolising enzymes. Phase

used in Asia for thousands of years. As

produced using S.C. extract, can be used

II protective enzymes are responsible

the main active ingredient in S.C., the

to buffer ROS and enhance skin barrier

for the antioxidant response, xenobiotic

ligans have various pharmacological

function, allowing a global preservation of

disposition, inflammatory response,

effects such as antioxidative, anti-

cutaneous structures. Urbalys is available

metabolic programming cell proliferation

inflammatory, antitumor, and hepato-

throughout southern Africa from Natchem. •

and survival, through the antioxidant-

protective. These benefits have led

response element. The activity of Nrf2 is

Greentech’s scientists to believe that S.C.

regulated and stabilised by mechanisms

has various biological effects, which may

such as Keap1 and DJ-1, a multifunctional

activate the endogenous mechanisms

protein involved in various physiological

of defense and the biological pathways

processes. These include transcriptional

to fight against pollutants. Using an

regulation, anti-oxidative stress

in vitro model, Greentech established

reaction, mitochondrial regulation and

that dual treatment with urban dust

signal transduction6.

and S.C. extract could modulate the

INSPIRED BY TRADITIONAL MEDICINE

expression of Nrf2 and DJ-1. It also reduced NF- kB (see Figure 2) and AhR, showing that this active extract may

Greentech’s active ingredient, Urbalys,

REFERENCES: 1. Poonam Puriet al., Effects of air pollution on the skin: A review. Indian J. Dermatol. Venereol. Leprol. (2017) 83; 415-423. 2. Sung Ho Jeong, et al.; Up-regulation of TNF-alpha secretion by cigarette smoke is mediated by Egr-1 in HaCaT human keratinocytes, Exp. Dermatol. (2010) 19; e206–e212. 3. Yue Matsumoto, et al.; Aryl hydrocarbon receptor plays a significant role in mediating airborne particulate induced carcinogenesis in mice, Environ. Sci. Technol. (2007) 41; 3775–3780. 4. M  asutaka Furue et al., Antioxidants for Healthy Skin: The Emerging Role of Aryl Hydrocarbon Receptors and Nuclear Factor-Erythroid 2-Related Factor-2. Nutrients (2017) 9; 23.

A possible approach to attack ROS-

provide skin with extensive protection

mediated skin disorders is based on

against daily environmental aggressors.

iodine in skin: Activation of the Nrf2 pathway. Free Radic. Biol.

the use of substances found in plants

In a skin-equivalent model stressed

Med. (2017) 104; 238-248.

as secondary metabolites. Various

using urban dust, the extract provided

phytochemicals and herbal extracts

a global protection of skin components

exert their antioxidant properties by

as shown by key proteins involved in the

activating the Nrf2 system in human

epidermal barrier. Using an in vivo model,

epidermal keratinocytes . Schisandra

Greentech reported an improvement

4

5. Maya Ben-Yehuda Greenwald et al.; A novel role of topical

6. Jin Im et al.; DJ-1 induces thioredoxin 1 expression through the Nrf2 pathway. Hum Mol Genet (2012) 21; 3013-3024.

Greentech – www.greentech.fr Natchem – www.natchem.co.za

Cirebelle is a leading South • Waxes – used in personal care products African manufacturer and exporter including lipsticks, lipbalms, creams, of Fischer-Tropsch (“FT”) wax lotions etc beads & base waxes for the global • Exfoliating beads – improve and enhance cosmetic & personal care industry: beauty care products as exfoliating cleansers, facial scrubs, foot scrubs, soaps etc. • Blends – standard custom developed blends. • Softsphere™ - self hydrating wax spheres entrapping active ingredients inside a wax matrix.

Tel: +27 11 473 1373 Email: sales@cirebelle.com Cirebelle QP.indd 1

2017/03/23 8:00 AM

P C Africa | QUARTER 4 2017 |

25


BEAUTY INNOVATIONS

Transparent iron oxides for multicultural formulations Developing foundations for darker skins presents a formulating challenge because traditional pigment combinations of white, red, yellow and black tend to make darker skins (Fitzpatrick’s scale V and VI) appear white, chalky or milky. To overcome these difficulties, Kobo Products offers transparent iron oxides which provide, sheer and clean payoff along with the right balance of transparency and coverage for a more natural look.

T

ransparent iron oxides have a

to aid formulation in different media.

smaller particle size than regular iron oxides.

Because of their transparency,

However, because of their small size,

DID YOU KNOW?

they tend to be more difficult to disperse. Kobo Products also offers dispersions

of these pigments Opacity, transparency and translucency need to be carefully these pigments in a wide range of engineered to ensure foundation allow more carriers that can be products aren’t too chalky for complex, darker easily incorporated Ethnic skins. Cosmetics scientists can skin tones to into formulations. engineer better beauty products shine through In sunscreen for multicultural consumers by designing matrixes with various the foundation formulations, particles, refractive indices makeup, giving transparent iron and the surrounding a more natural oxides reduce mediums for colour appearance. whitening and chalkiness innovation. These pigments are

offered surface treated

while contributing to

UV attenuation.

Red Iron Oxides (CI 77491)

Yellow Iron Oxides (CI 77492)

Cyclopentasoloxane (And) PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone

FAF40TRR

FAF40TRY

C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate

TNP55TRR

TNP55TRY

Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil

COP40TRR

COP40TRY

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

GCG50TRSG

GCG50TYSG

Dimethicone

DIM2F50TRR

DIM2F45TRY

| QUARTER 4 2017 | P C Africa

formulation on darker skin tones. • They contribute to attenuation in sunscreen formulations.

DISPERSIONS To illustrate how transparent iron oxides perform on melanin-rich skin, Kobo Products prepared two stick foundations – one using traditional iron oxides and the other with transparent iron oxides. Figure 1 shows that the formula prepared with transparent iron oxides is less whitening on skin and gives a more natural look.

AN INNOVATIVE SUPPLIER Kobo Products produces and supplies innovative, technology-based raw materials to the cosmetics industry. The company offers a variety of pigments into formulations for all skin tones. Kobo

Carrier

26

• They help to avoid the chalky look of a colour

and sun care ingredients to incorporate

Table 1: Dispersions

Figure 1: An equal amount of each formula was applied on the volar forearm. The formulation made with transparent iron oxides (Right) appears more natural for this skin type

BENEFITS OF TRANSPARENT RED AND YELLOW IRON OXIDES:

Products is represented throughout southern Africa by Cosmetic Ingredients. •

Cosmetic Ingredients – www.cosmetic-ingredients.co.za Kobo Products – www.koboproducts.com

Graph 1: Transmittance curves of transparent yellow iron oxide and transparent red iron oxide compared to pigmentary yellow iron oxide and pigmentary red iron oxide


PACKAGING

Liquids packaging made

30 percent faster

According to Omron, minimising sloshing when filling liquid cosmetics and pharmaceutical products results in increased production and cost efficiencies

Omron discusses how to avoid spillage and why this is essential in any liquids filling application, especially in pharmaceutical and cosmetics manufacturing.

M

inimising sloshing in liquid-filling activities when

hygiene due to spillage elimination; simple and fast system design, setup

packaging liquids like lotions, is highly desirable.

and changeover times and lean machine design,’ says Evert Janse van

The more you can minimise sloshing, the faster

Vuuren, a field application engineer at Omron.

you can move unsealed products without spilling

‘Omron has extensive experience and a proven track record in

the liquid. Spillages can negatively affect the folding, filling,

the pharmaceutical industry globally. As the pharma and cosmetics

sealing and measuring processes, so avoiding them is essential

industries have similar applications and challenges across the globe,

in terms of cost efficiency.

local OEMs will benefit from the expertise available in the Omron Group

Omron recently collaborated with a French packaging

and can duplicate success stories for their customers,’ concludes Laetita

machine manufacturer to develop a new machine. The

de Jager, Omron SA’s marketing manager. •

objective was to achieve high levels of compactness and cost efficiency. The company not only got the expertise it expected,

Omron South Africa – www.industrial.omron.co.za

but also a mini-revolution in machine performance with an increase in packaging speed of more than 30 percent. Omron was tasked to assist with reducing the machine’s size and cost, which led to investigating components and materials and identifying possible gains. Omron recognised

Achieve flexible production

that manufacturer’s vibration suppression technology could also reduce the machine’s cost of ownership by making it

with integrated robotics solutions

more productive. Although anti-sloshing is highly desirable, deploying vibration suppression demands experience in software and control technology. Even when successful, the acceleration profile is typically good for just one recipe or liquid type. Yet this was not the case with the solution implemented. Omron’s Sysmac Studio Function Block provides for input of different liquid parameters. The result was optimised antisloshing for several recipes and liquid types. With a NA HMI, end-user operators could change recipes with the touch of a few on-screen buttons, enabling one machine to pack several different liquid products.

Delta Parallel robot Quattro and Hornet

SMALLER, FASTER AND MORE ECONOMICAL The vibration control technology is made via Omron’s Sysmac integrated platform, which uses one connection, individual software and a single machine controller. This means that only one network is necessary for all machine functions including motion, safety, vision, robotics and sensing. Even better, since all the components and subsystems are automatically recognised by the single software environment, no addressing is necessary, and all parameters can be easily shared to reduce development time to an absolute minimum. ‘When packaging movement is controlled by Sysmac

Articulated robot Viper

SCARA robot eCobra

Mobile robot LD Series

The new Omron Robotic Automation enhances the most demanding manufacturing lines. Realize faster line start-up & change-over, implement easier to use technology & vertical line integration, and facilitate faster data capture & analysis to increase your in-line efficiency. Our industrial robotics range from articulated, SCARA, and DELTA to collaborative (mobile) robots that optimize the handling of varying lot sizes and diverse products, formats and qualities. Achieve flexible production with integrated robotics solutions that give you a competitive edge! Discover how to improve your flexible production, contact us: +27 (0)11 579 2600 info.sa@eu.omron.com industrial.omron.co.za

technology to minimise slosh, it also provides other benefits like shorter time for stabilisation; reduced reserve space; better

robot_88,5x130_food_manufacturing_africa_ad_enza_01.indd 1 | P C Africa

QUARTER 4 2017 |20-07-17 27 12:55


PACKAGING

Exemplifying the ‘less is more’ approach Load security has become a growing challenge for the supply chain and freight industry. This is attributed to the increase in freight transport distances and difficult road conditions as cargo failures result in major economic, safety and wastage issues. It is imperative products be wrapped in secure film packaging providing elasticity, puncture resistance and excellent holding force to ensure pallet stability.

T

he packaging team

spurring economic development

from Dow Packaging

and supporting a more sustainable

and Specialty Plastics, a

world,’ he explains.

business unit of DowDuPont

To address needs of load security

REDUCING WASTE TO LANDFILL The industrial packaging solutions based on Dow’s high

Materials Science division is focused

by protecting goods in transit and

performance resins provide

on making the African region safer,

guarding against contaminates,

the right level of mechanical

cleaner and more sustainable.

Dow has come up with the Move it

performance such as holding

‘Dow is focusing on Africa’s

Safely concept.

force and puncture resistance.

development by developing

Its adhesive solutions for carton

innovative and sustainable solutions

sealing tapes help ensure

within key sectors that are critical

goods stay inside boxes during

drivers of growth and prosperity,’

transportation and arrive safely to

explains Javier Constante,

their destination.

Dow’s commercial vice

‘Improved load stability

president for packaging

means all members of the

and speciality plastics in

value chain benefit from its

the EMEAI region.

positive environmental impact,’

To develop solutions

says Constante.

that address the industry

Film producers can also down

needs, the company

gauge films yet still maintain

collaborates with

the same level of technical

strategic partners to take

performance and even improve

innovations even further.

it with Dow’s high performance

‘Flexible plastic packaging

resins. Thinner, high performing

plays a significant role in

films help reduce greenhouse gases generated during production and transportation. They also impact directly on the end of life, which equates to reduced product and packaging waste, less film to recycle, lowered

DRIVING DEMAND

energy requirements and fewer

THE WORLDWIDE AUTHORITY on the

Stretch film is a highly stretchable

packaging, paper and print industry,

plastic film that can be wrapped

Smithers Pira predicts the global

around items. It facilitates

market value for stretch films will reach

the transportation of goods.

US$10.4 billion by 2022, growing at a

Packages can be wrapped

CAGR of five percent.

until the desired cargo stability

fees to be paid.

DIFFERENT FILMS AND THEIR BENEFITS

is achieved, either by hand

28

| QUARTER 4 2017 | P C Africa


PACKAGING

or machines. This technology enables the wrapping of regular and irregular shaped goods. It offers the lowest packaging cost per unit. The market drivers and trends for stretch film in East and West Africa are PE consumption,

DID YOU KNOW?

Stretch film, an important means of unitising product loads for transportation, was introduced in the ’70s.

urbanisation and industrialisation growth, stricter legislation on packaging, an increased focus on sustainability and cost effectiveness among others. ‘Dow offers the Toolbox & Elite AT 6111 high performance resins for tailor-made solutions. This is particularly suited to stretch film producers looking for solutions that provide easy processing,

This versatile means of

down-gauging potential and

packaging can be used in

help reduce the impact of cargo

high load stability,’ he explains.

different forms, which include

failures and ensure goods arrive

‘Among the benefits are its

transparent or coloured, with or

safely at their final destination.

holding force, tear and puncture

without printing and with different

resistance, consistent cling quality

film thicknesses varying from 35

delivering high load stability,

and low unwinding noise.’

to 80μm. Individual bottles or

package integrity and durability

cartons are placed together into

improves safety for both people

sealed on one end. It is stretched

multipacks, which are ready to

and goods. They help reduce

over a palletised load to secure

be wrapped.

waste and ensures merchandise is

the contents to the pallet. This

The multipack is

innovative technology can

enveloped in a

increase packaging efficiency

shrink film. It then

and enable cost savings in both

passes through

transport and logistics. It offers

a heated shrink

weather protection and provides

tunnel, causing

load aesthetics. The wrapping

the film to shrink

process involves the film being

tightly and

cut to the appropriate length,

neatly around

heat sealed on the top end

the pack. The

and gathered on four ‘fingers’.

shrink wrapped

These ‘fingers’ stretch the film

multipack exits the

can outweigh the costs of

in the horizontal (transverse)

shrink tunnel, cools and is ready

shipping while the negative

direction until the film dimensions

for handling.

consumer experience resulting

Stretch hood is a tube of film

are slightly larger than the load

IMPROVED LOAD STABILITY MEANS ALL MEMBERS OF THE VALUE CHAIN BENEFIT FROM ITS POSITIVE ENVIRONMENTAL IMPACT

are in search for solutions to

The use of packaging solutions

protected and transported safely from the manufacturer to the end consumer. By improving the security of pallet loads, human safety is improved owing to a reduction in accidents. The cost benefits are improved as damaged goods have a direct consequence on costs and brands’ reputations. Replacing damaged products

from damaged goods has a

then drawn down over the pallet,

WHY LOAD STABILITY MATTERS

followed by continued unrolling

The number of goods lost or

future purchasing decisions. By

and wrapping. At the bottom of

damaged during transportation

increasing pallet load stability,

the pallet, the ‘fingers’ release the

is increasing. This is a trend driven

product spillage and wastage

film, which typically wraps under

by a globalised economy and

during transportation are

the pallet bottom.

societal changes, such as a

avoided which further reduces

Collation shrink films are

growing middle class with better

the environmental impact of

applied loosely around items

incomes and higher purchasing

cargo failures. •

and shrunk tightly with heat. They

power. More goods will continue

bundle together objects such as

to be shipped and travel longer

health and beauty products and

distances. Retailers, brand owners,

home care items.

logistics and shipping companies

dimensions. The stretched film is

direct impact not only on the company’s reputation but also

DowDuPont – www.dow-dupont.com

P C Africa | QUARTER 4 2017 |

29


PACKAGING

Progression on the cards for packaging that will drive much of Africa’s consumption growth between now and 2025. Those earning more than US$50 000 a year in North Africa and

The national statistical service of South Africa, StatsSA, indicates an uptick in manufacturing data. This offers the packaging industry an opportunity to ramp up production digitisation in preparation for further growth.

F

igures released by StatsSA

provide the packaging industry with

in October indicate

slightly increased upstream demand.

manufacturing

‘Meeting this demand will

production increased

South Africa, Nigerian consumers, middle-income consumers in East Africa and middle-income consumers in Central and West Africa. These figures come in the wake of a few recent investments in the African packaging market. In 2015, Deloitte predicted the demand for packaging would be

require the packaging industry

driven by a number of factors. These

by 1.5 percent in August 2017

takes advantage of the window

were identified as increased markets

compared with August 2016.

to reduce downtime by bringing

for consumer products, burgeoning

internal processes up to speed

individual incomes, an expanding

and improving services,’ he says.

population of youthful consumers

Bruce Peters, regional manager for manufacturing at Cisco Southern Africa believes

In a Cisco survey of more

that because the increase was

than 600 senior executives in

particularly those in East and

mainly due to higher production

13 countries – from both industrial

West Africa.

in the basic iron and steel, non-

machine builders and end user

ferrous metal products, metal

manufacturers – 86 percent

industry will be negatively affected if it

products and machinery division

said the transition from product-

doesn’t address digital transformation

(11.3 percent and contributing

centric to service-oriented

to reduce downtime.

2.0 percentage points),

Bruce Peters

downstream manufacturers will take up this increased production and

THE BIGGEST CONTRIBUTORS TO THE UPSWING THE FOLLOWING DIVISIONS of the manufacturing sector have made the largest contributions, resulting in the 1.3 percent increase: • basic iron and steel, non-ferrous metal products, metal products and machinery (2.5 percent and contributing 0.5 of a percentage point) • petroleum, chemical products, rubber and plastic products (1.6 percent and contributing 0.4 of a percentage point) • motor vehicles, parts and accessories and other transport equipment (3.9 percent and contributing 0.3 of a percentage point) • furniture and other manufacturing (7.1 percent and contributing 0.2 of a percentage point).

30

| QUARTER 4 2017 | P C Africa

revenue models are a core part of their growth strategies. StatsSA announced that

and growing domestic economies,

Peters warns that the packaging

‘Complexity and a lack of digital capabilities are holding firms back. The top inhibitor to transitioning

seasonally adjusted manufacturing

to a service model is the difficulty

production increased by 1.3 percent

of managing a “two-front war” –

in the three months ended August

products and services simultaneously.

2017 compared to the previous three

However, their ability to capture

months. Six of the 10 manufacturing

significant value and leapfrog

divisions reported positive growth

competitors, hinges on accelerating

rates over this period.

to a service model,’ he says.

PROS AND CONS IN AFRICA

the services and digital journeys

StatsSA’s latest figures underscore

must converge.

findings in McKinsey’s research

To resolve this service dilemma,

‘To unlock the full potential

released in October points to

of the service model, while still

consumer spending in Africa

improving products, industrial

reaching US$2.1 trillion by 2025 in real

machine manufacturers and

2015 prices. Consumer goods are

end-user manufacturers need to

by definition, packaged – I believe

digitally transform their businesses,’

that the packaging industry can

he concludes. •

therefore expect an uptick as well,’ Peters explains. The McKinsey Global Institute has identified four groups of consumers

Cisco Southern Africa – www.cisco.com


“ Hair Aficionados Curly & coily. Wild & manageable. Shiny & sleek. Hair has its own individual personality. Understanding multi-ethnic hair, developing tailored scent and care concepts, that’s how we’re offering just the right formula for every individuals crown and glory. We interweave our knowledge about hairy trends and type-specific hair care with our deep hair expertise and are thus facilitating permanently gorgeous and healthy hair. www.symrise.com


NEW PRODUCT INNOVATION AWARD

2017 EUROPEAN COSMETICS AND PERSONAL CARE NEW PRODUCT INNOVATION AWARD

Global Anti-Pollution A 360° protection: powerful concentrate of lignans, URBALYSŽ protects against biological attacks from daily urban pollution in all its forms, by activating skin's own lines of defence and cell detoxification. Effective global action, triggered when there is contact or penetration by pollutants : a double defence mechanism fights both free radical stress and inflammation, and strengthens the cutaneous barrier. Alerted and mobilised against all daily pollutants, the skin breathes again. It recovers balance and radiance, a smooth texture and a glowing complexion.

www.greentech.fr

Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review Africa Q4 2017  
Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review Africa Q4 2017  

This edition explores ingredients and technologies for Ethnic care formulations. We also look at the latest beauty innovations for Africa, t...