Page 1


Quarter 2 2017 | Volume 2 | Number 2


gold standard THE

in Ethnic hair

and skin care

Natural beauty ingredients for African hair and skin How to innovate in personal care Your anti-counterfeiting questions answered

“ Hair Aficionados Curly & coily. Wild & manageable. Shiny & sleek. Hair has its own individual personality. Understanding multi-ethnic hair, developing tailored scent and care concepts, that’s how we’re offering just the right formula for every individuals crown and glory. We interweave our knowledge about hairy trends and type-specific hair care with our deep hair expertise and are thus facilitating permanently gorgeous and healthy hair.



Quarter 2 2017 | Volume 2 | Number 2 PHARMACEUTICAL & COSMETIC REVIEW AFRICA


6 Expanded African operations for Afrox 7 Biogaran acquires Nigerian


New data for Symrise’s skin soothing agent Wacker innovates with novel silicones

pharma company

8 Ingersoll Rand beefs up its rental equipment fleet



10 Source new products at Propak West Africa 2017

Five ways to guarantee clean room hygiene


28 Omron to showcase vision inspection systems at KITE



Bosch reveals lab scale pilot fermenter


16 Botanica prioritises safe skin lightening 18 Natural ingredients for hair care 20 Hair salon and testing equipment installed at Croda SA

21 Silicone emulsion addresses uneven


Top tips to stop counterfeiting in its tracks


Forging ahead in Africa

skin tone

22 Sustainable alternative to hydrolysed keratin therapy



New pilot fermenter

for manufacturing APIs P C Africa | QUARTER 2 2017 |




The time is right for

safer, quality solutions n Africa the need for safer alternatives

For pharmaceutical manufacturing, P C

to traditional skin lightening products is

Africa looks at the new pilot fermenter from

reaching a tipping point. The Ivory Coast

Bosch’s subsidiary, Pharmatech (page 14)

banned the use of skin whitening creams in

and how cleaning equipment from Nilfisk

2014 and Ghana forbid the importation of

guarantees maximum hygiene in clean

products containing Hydroquinone in 2016.

room environments (page 27).

Responsible brand owners in Nigeria are

Another burning issue in Africa is the

also driving awareness on the importance

proliferation of counterfeit medicines. This

of Hydroquinone-free formulations in the

billion-dollar industry is thriving, resulting

skin care segment.

in over 100 000 deaths annually in Africa

Despite these developments, African

alone. In the packaging feature on page



Editor: Abby Vorster +27 (0)11 877 6038 Assistant Editor: Aarifah Nosarka +27 (0)11 877 6209 Layout & Design: Kirsty Thomas Contributor: Catherine Centro, Elzbieta Kasprzyk, Saso Efremovski ADVERTISING Sales Executive: Carla Melless +27 (0)83 260 6060 Sales Executive: Anita Raath +27 (0)82 976 6541 Sales Executive: Candida Giambo-Kruger +27 (0)71 438 1918 INTERNATIONAL SALES Germany/Austria/Switzerland: Eisenacher Medien Erhardt Eisenacher +49 228 249 9860 Italy: Ngcombroker Giacomo Rotunno +39 370 101 4694 Taiwan: Ringier Trade Media Sydney Lai +886 4 2329 7318 CIRCULATION Circulation Manager: Felicity Garbers +27 (0)21 701 1566 PUBLISHING TEAM General Manager: Dev Naidoo

women continue to lighten their skin. Yet

28, assistant editor, Aarifah Nosarka presents

these days, consumers are seeking less

expert advice on how to tackle the problem

Publishing Manager: Natalie Da Silva +27 (0)11 877 6281

invasive alternatives.

in an interesting discussion on risk profiling

Production Controller: Rae Morrison

and new developments in security features.

Art Director: David Kyslinger

Two of these products are featured in the Ethnic Care section in this edition of P C

Please keep in touch. We welcome your

JOHANNESBURG OFFICE New Media Publishing, Ground floor, Media Park, 69 Kingsway Avenue, Auckland Park, 2092 Tel: +27 (0)11 877 6111, Fax: +27 (0)11 713 9024 POSTAL ADDRESS PO Box 784698, Sandton, Johannesburg, 2146

Africa. These are BotanicaLite from Botanica

editorial submissions and feedback

Natural Products and Velvesil E-Gel PMF

on the magazine. You can

emulsion from Savannah Fine Chemicals.

send an e-mail to abby.

Essential hair care ingredients for natural,


healthy hair are also discussed in this or aarifah.nosarka@

Published on behalf of Media24 by New Media Publishing (PTY) Ltd.

feature. Turn to page 16 now to find out


more about these unique offerings. New data for SymMollient W/S from

Enjoy the read.

Symrise is highlighted in the personal care


section on page 25. This and novel silicones


from Wacker are discussed in depth.

John Psillos

SymMollient W/S can act as a skin and scalp soothing agent, while the silicone fluid


emulsion, Belsil DM 5700 E, is suitable for use


in sulphate-free shampoos.

New Media House, 19 Bree Street, Cape Town 8001 Tel: +27 (0)21 417 1111, Fax: +27 (0)21 417 1112 Email: PO Box 440, Green Point, Cape Town 8051

ADVERTISERS’ INDEX Afrocet Bosch Packaging.............................................15........................www.boschpackaging,com Botanica Natural CJP H&R Nautica Organic Savannah Fine Trace Verder

Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review Africa is published by New Media Publishing four times a year and circulates to manufacturers, packers and distributors of pharmaceuticals, health products, cosmetics, detergents, soaps, toiletries and allied products. The journal is an up-to-date source of reference for company directors, factory and production managers, marketing executives, engineers, import agents, buyers and research personnel. While precautions have been taken to ensure the accuracy of its contents and information given to readers, neither the editor, publisher, or its agents can accept responsibility for damages or injury which may arise therefrom. All rights reserved. © Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review Africa. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, photocopying, electronic, mechanical or otherwise without the prior written permission of the copyright owners. Pharmaceutical

Cosmetic Review Africa is printed by Tandym.

Copyright: all rights reserved. ISSN 0257-8719


| QUARTER 2 2017 | P C Africa

At H&R we pride ourselves on being a truly sustainable company that focuses on waste reduction by transforming every residue produced within traditional oil refinery into new high quality products, thereby bringing appealing solutions to the markets we serve. We work closely with customers to offer customized solutions suitable for their needs. H&R is a proud major global supplier of top quality petroleum jelly, an essential ingredient used in the African personal care, cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries. H&R offers both white and yellow product variations of petroleum jelly to these industries. H&R offers a variety of bases for the production of cosmetic and pharmaceutical emulsion and ointments. H&R also offers a wide range of paraffinic and naphthenic based technical and medicinal white oils.

113 Trindad Road, Island View, Durban 4052, South Africa Tel: +27 (0)31 466 8700, Fax: +27 (0)31 466 8716 E-mail:

NEWS Restasis Multidose product Image courtesy of Allergan


AFROX EXPANDS ITS AFRICAN OPERATIONS POSITIONING ITSELF TO service the country’s fledgling gas resources sector, Afrox is expanding existing operations in Mozambique to support current customer demand.


Driving Afrox’s strategy is a new 8 600m2 hub, which

free ophthalmic squeeze dispenser,

will be the backbone of operations with a sales centre, storage facilities for cylinders and hard goods, filling facilities for oxygen, and ample secure parking. The new headquarters was opened on 4 May in the Machava Industrial Area in Matola, Maputo Province, and provides full sales service, stock, equipment and technical support for Afrox’s branches in Beira and Tete. ‘As the leading gases and welding company in Africa, the new hub in Maputo Province reflects our commitment to fostering longterm relationships with our customers in Mozambique,’ says Prince Tsuro, MD for Afrox Mozambique. The new Afrox hub also includes plans for a demo centre, which will be used to showcase product usage or applications, and while Tsuro says Afrox’s latest investment in the headquarters hub in Matola is a clear demonstration the business is still going strong

bulk and compressed gases and hard goods are imported from South Africa, the site includes sufficient space for future expansion.

‘Our headquarters hub will benefit a wide spectrum

containing cyclosporine ophthalmic emulsion, is now available in the US prescription market. The Restasis Multidose product contains 0.05 percent of cyclosporine ophthalmic emulsion by eye care specialist, Allergan. The launch makes Aptar Pharma’s dispenser the first and only FDA-approved multidose delivery system to handle prescription eye treatment formulations without any preservatives. The company is working closely with Allergan to improve patient safety, achieve dosing accuracy and maintain product integrity. An increasing number of patients experience eye irritation or an allergic reaction because of certain preservatives in formulations. These consumers appreciate that preservatives can be removed from eye care medications with this new squeeze dispenser. The system is the result of more than 10 years of development and experience in the delivery of preservative-free ophthalmic solutions. Patients and consumers in different countries have benefitted from this technology since 2012. There are currently more than 100 commercial references available on the market. Salim Haffar, president of Aptar Pharma says the technology incorporates proven and unrivalled microbiological safety. This, combined with its precise and reproducible drop ejection, allows pharmaceutical customers worldwide to enter into discussions with regulatory agencies such as the FDA.


of sectors in Mozambique, including manufacturing,’

ARJOWIGGINS GRAPHIC, A manufacturer of environmentally friendly paper solutions, is collaborating with

he adds.

Childfund Alliance to support the education of children in Mali.

It provides employment for 20 people and expects to enhance customer experience right across the board, from the sales centre through to collection of hard goods and loading of cylinders. The upgraded hub will offer all the same comprehensive services available from other Afrox

For this year’s annual Cyclus campaign, the company is helping to provide solar lamps to children living in the villages where there is no electricity. The global ‘Light to Learn’ campaign hopes to raise awareness of Cyclus 100 percent recycled papers and first-rate environmental and ethical credentials. It calls on designers, printers, print managers and end users to watch a video highlighting this challenging issue which is featured online at For every 25 video views, Arjowiggins Graphic will fund a solar lamp for one child in the village. The intention

branches in southern Africa, including a full range

is to provide 200 solar lamps by the end of the campaign. It started at the beginning of May, and ends on

of large-volume on-site installations and bulk gases,

30 June.

cylinder gases, scientific gases, refrigerants, packaged

Launching globally in 35 countries, including Spain, Malaysia, China and the UK, this latest initiative is

chemicals and helium, CO2, medical gases and medical

part of the company’s ongoing

products, hospitality gases, gas equipment, welding

commitment to fund the

products and ancillary safety products.

education of children in less

Sub-Saharan Africa is experiencing a resurgence in oil and gas and mining investment, and consequently

privileged parts of the world. The campaign has been rolled

Afrox is growing its existing footprint in support of

out in South Africa by Papersmith

these sectors.

& Son, a stockist of Cyclus.


| QUARTER 2 2017 | P C Africa

The solar lamps will provide light for children to enable learning when it’s dark

NEWS The Swipha pharmaceutical manufacturing facility in Nigeria


designers can create packages straight out of their

recently introduced innovative examples using its

imaginations,’ Li adds.

Surlyn ionomer resins to achieve a one-step frosted

The unique properties of Surlyn enable it to copy

effect for cosmetics caps, bottles and jars. This effect

the fine, intricate details of a mould to achieve a high

is accomplished straight from the mould. It enables

gloss design with an entirely, or partially, frosted

fine details, pleasant tactile quality and consistency

appearance. By applying this frosted effect in the

without the need for a secondary process.

mould, Surlyn offers increased production efficiency

‘Brand owners are constantly looking for new ways to differentiate their offerings,

and lower cost for manufacturers looking to achieve this effect for their packs.

and a frosted effect is a unique

It offers the transparency of glass without

decoration that creates a sense

the fragility, and can be frosted, faceted

of premiumisation in both

or finished to obtain special effects.

the look and feel,’ says

It can also be coloured to create

Jennifer Li, marketing

elegant translucency.

leader: industrial and

Surlyn allows the use of

consumer, at DuPont.

many different decorative

She says the company

techniques for cosmetics.

collaborates with industry

These include metallisation, hot

partners to expand the possibilities of packaging design. ‘This is done so that

stamping and lacquering, as well The bubble effect

as marbling, bubbling, glittering and suspended animations.

BIOGARAN TAKES OVER SWIPHA’S ACTIVITIES IN NIGERIA FRENCH PHARMACEUTICAL COMPANY, Biogaran recently announced the takeover of all activities of Swipha, a Nigerian company that manufactures and distributes quality pharmaceutical products. This is an important step in the internationalisation of Biogaran, which specialises in generic and biosimilar medicines. The move is set to see the French company develop new markets to meet its commitment to provide all patients with quality medication. Swipha’s portfolio is mainly focused on three families of products: anti-anxiety and tranquillisers; antimalarial drugs; and antibiotics, which treat Nigeria’s most widespread infections and health

NEXT LEVEL SENSORY TOOL IS LAUNCHED BUILDING ON THE success of its initial Sensory Kaleidoscope, Evonik’s personal care business line is now bundling its global expertise in formulation design, emulsifiers and sensory into Sensory Kaleidoscope 2.0. This is an evolution of the company’s online interactive tool, which helps formulators obtain the desired skin feel for a product. Its unique functionality displays a vast range of cosmetics formulations in the context of their sensory characteristics. The impact of emulsifiers and formulation design on the skin feel is also showcased. The online tool was created using statistical analysis of data obtained from a sensory panel. Ingredients that offer broad formulation flexibility are becoming more important for formulators looking to develop consumer desirable products. Tego Care PBS 6, a versatile PEG-free O/W emulsifier fully based on renewable sources, provides this flexibility when formulating a range of skin care products. It is differentiated by a wide variety of sensory profiles. Sensory Kaleidoscope 2.0 can also help formulators find ingredients that can impart innovative textures to add a fun element to consumers’ daily beauty routines. Examples include Evonik’s caring oil release cream, which has a surprising cream texture, and the magic cream to milk, which releases milk-like droplets during application.

issues. It was the first Nigerian pharmaceutical company to obtain ISO 9001 certification in 2007. Approved by the World Health Organization (WHO) in 2014, Swipha employs 300 people and generated record sales of NGN 4 billion (approximately €20 million) in 2012. Beyond its production unit, the company has a wide distribution network covering most parts of Nigeria. This is Africa’s most dynamic country, with more than 184 million inhabitants in 2016, according to the IMF. Health issues are particularly important in Africa. Beyond significant needs for good quality, affordable and efficient medicines, the problem of counterfeits is a major concern. Annually, WHO estimates 100 000 deaths in Africa are due to fake medicines. In this context, supplying Nigeria’s population with reliable locally produced medicines is a strong commitment of Biogaran, a subsidiary of Servier. ‘Biogaran’s international expansion strategy is to create synergies by bringing expertise and investment capacity in production tools to existing structures,’ comments Pascal Brière, president of Biogaran. ‘Swipha’s know-how, network and reputation immediately convinced us that it was the right partner for our company. Likewise, Nigeria quickly came out as the best entry point on the African continent with its strong population and solid economic fundamentals, including a very dynamic market economy.’

P C Africa | QUARTER 2 2017 |





has added 50 percent more compressed air rental


equipment to its fleet in Africa, the US, Europe, the Middle

quality primary plastic packaging

East and India. Ingersoll Rand rental equipment delivers

and medical devices, has acquired

reliable, temporary compressed air solutions for mid- to

Plastina Holding, parent company of

high-capacity manufacturing operations to keep critical

Jaco SA, based in Kirchheim, Germany.

processes up and running during emergencies or planned

This merger will see Sanner

projects. The rental fleet includes oil-free class 0 and oil-

advance to the global market leader for

flooded compressors ranging from 20 horsepower/15kW

effervescent packaging.

to 400 horsepower/300kW, as well as refrigerated and desiccant dryers.

Ralf Tiemann, MD of Sanner, Kunshan, China; Jürgen Sanner, Sanner shareholder; Sibylle Rippmann, former owner of Jaco SA; Tharcisse Decker, MD of Jaco SA; and Dirk Mähr

The company is known as a global market leader in desiccant packaging

Decker, MD of Jaco SA. ‘Apart from the

for the pharmaceutical and health

strong French and European market, we

requiring any compressed air solutions, whether permanent

care industries. Jaco SA is one of the

are now also able to enter new markets

or temporary compressors or dryers,’ says Eric Seidel,

leading manufacturers of printed and

such as the Middle East and Africa

vice president of product management for compression

unprinted plastic tubes for effervescent

more effectively,’ Mähr adds.

technologies and services at Ingersoll Rand. ‘Our expansive

tablets. ‘Our product portfolios are

rental fleet gives customers peace of mind when they face a

complementary,’ says Dirk Mähr, MD

technology can be used for new

system failure or require incremental compressed air systems

of Sanner. ‘Because of the merger, we

products, while Sanner’s competencies

due to peak demand.’

have significantly strengthened our

in R&D are of great advantage for joint,

position to become the global market

innovative projects.

‘Ingersoll Rand is a true one-stop shop for customers

Maintenance service is included with all rentals, as well as Ingersoll Rand genuine parts including filters, lubricants, fluids, spare parts and consumables. Expertly trained

leader in effervescent packaging.’ In 2016, Sanner generated sales of

Jaco SA’s experience in printing

The acquisition will have no effect on the employees or the production

technicians manage services, repairs and maintenance of

€63.7 million, while Jaco SA achieved

of both companies. Customers will be

the compressed air rental assets.

around €13 million.

served by the sites in Bensheim and

The company’s compressed air rental services are

‘Together, we offer customers one

Kirchheim. The company name Jaco

ideal for unexpected equipment failure, planned outages

of the most comprehensive ranges of

SA will remain unchanged for the time

and maintenance, seasonal peak demand, testing, and

tubes and closures, combined with

being. The former owners of Jaco SA

tight capital budgets. Renting equipment can minimise

numerous decoration possibilities.

have withdrawn from business, and

demands on cash flow and provides a viable solution for

This allows us to operate as a system

both parties agreed on keeping the

customers faced with emergencies and cannot afford an

supplier in the future,’ says Tharcisse

purchase price confidential.

unplanned investment. Ingersoll Rand’s systems engineers and technicians are available to develop a contingency plan with the customer prior to a system failure. This helps reduce downtime and any financial loss. ‘Downtime during equipment failure can be devastating to a business, and the contingency planning can help facilities prepare for the unexpected,’ Seidel adds. ‘Working with an Ingersoll Rand expert

INTEGRATED IT SOLUTIONS IMPROVE EFFICIENCY WERUM IT SOLUTIONS (Werum) is addressing current pharmaceutical industry challenges with its integrated IT solutions. The company’s offerings are designed to advance packaging processes in pharmaceutical factories. Jan-Henrik Dieckert, senior head of sales EMEA at Werum IT Solutions says these are

to create a contingency

Werum’s vendor-independent track and trace solution, its key performance indicator

plan saves time and

(KPI) monitoring and new Plug & Produce solution. The latter reportedly reduces the

reduces downtime so

workload of equipment integration by up to 75 percent.

rental equipment can be deployed quickly.’ Ingersoll Rand rental solutions are available worldwide.

‘These are some examples of how we support our customers to increase the efficiency and productivity in their pharmaceutical factories while meeting regulatory requirements,’ says Dieckert. The company’s vendor-independent PAS-X track and trace solution complies with the anti-counterfeiting requirements of any country around the globe. It provides serialisation and aggregation functionalities for packaging processes. It integrates

Oil-free drier rental equipment from Ingersoll Rand


| QUARTER 2 2017 | P C Africa

the ERP and the Global Repository with a shop floor’s packaging equipment and line controllers. It is a smart option to get started with Werum’s manufacturing IT solutions and can easily be extended to a full-scope PAS-X MES.

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P C Africa | QUARTER 2 2017 |



Propak presents

windows of opportunity Propak West Africa 2017 is shaping up to be bigger and better than ever before. This is according to Jamie Pearson, marketing and operations manager at Afrocet Montgomery, the show’s organiser. 1




he exhibition takes place

three-day exhibition duration, to

from 19 to 21 September

the varying sectors. These include:

at the Landmark Centre in

• F ood Pro – looking into the

Lagos, Nigeria. Pearson says

impact of branding on turnover •P  ro-Label – an overview of

one hall is almost fully booked with only a couple of stands remaining.

regulation in the drinks sector

There will be a newly constructed

•P  ro-Plas – reducing the

second hall, which is also said to be

environment impact of

filling up with stands.

plastic packaging Scenes from the successful Propak West Africa 2016

The event will include an innovation zone for local start-up companies that need a helping hand in raising awareness in the

•P  rint&Digital Expo – what’s new in potential clients in three days than in

the global technology race and

multiple trips to the region.

how it affects West Africa.

Many exhibitors share Du Toit’s

market. These first-time exhibitors

opinion, as 63 percent of the floor


will have smaller booths to

was booked for 2017 before the 2016

The ease of doing business in the

accommodate their budgets. This

event shut its doors in September.

region, especially in Nigeria, is high

additional feature was decided on after last year’s triumphant show. The main hall at Propak West Africa 2016 was completely sold out to exhibitors. ‘Many attendees commented on the high quality of visitors and the international eminence of the exhibition,’ comments Pearson.


Exhibition space at Propak West Africa 2016 increased by 29 percent compared to the previous year.

There were 2 867 visitors at last year’s event.

AMPLE PROSPECTS Pieter Du Toit, key account manager

The companies exhibiting

on the agenda. The country’s acting

at Propak West Africa operate

president, Yemi Osinbajo has already

within the packaging, plastics, manufacturing and processing sectors. Visitors have the opportunity

conclusion within 48 hours. ‘This will come as a huge relief to the many frequent travellers

products, sourcing new

who have in the past had to wait

solutions, and networking with

up to one week just for information

industry professionals. They can also attend the conference to be held on the exhibition floor to

on its stage in the process,’ Pearson explains. Afrocet Montgomery is expecting

keep up to date with trends and

a record breaking fifth year for

market developments.

Propak West Africa. •

The conference programme will

Propak is key to generating business

focus on different verticals that make

in West Africa. This is because

up the Propak brand. This will be

companies can meet a number of

done by devoting half days, over the

| QUARTER 2 2017 | P C Africa

order for all visas to be processed to

of viewing hundreds of

at Filmatic Systems South Africa says


made motions with an executive

Afrocet Montgomery –


Forging ahead in Africa IMCD is a global leader in the sales, marketing and distribution of speciality chemicals and food ingredients. Through its Ethnic skin and hair care Centre of Excellence located in South Africa, the company can tailor products accordingly. By Abby Vorster


ndustry leading technical and

Algeria is headquartered in Algiers

strong local position and key

commercial teams, a flexible

and IMCD Tunisia in Tunis. ‘These

platform for further expansion in

subsidiaries partner with

Africa. Based in Nairobi, IMCD

major chemical producers

Kenya distributes ingredients to

and serve a large amount of

the cosmetics, detergents, food

•€  1 715 million revenue in 2016

active customers, delivering

and pharmaceutical industries,

an exceptional track record

serving both local and regional

•3  4 000 customers

of growth,’ says Natalie

markets including Uganda and

•1  800 professionals

MacGregor, business unit

Tanzania. The company has joined

•4  0+ countries

manager: pharmaceuticals

IMCD’s existing operations in the

•3  0 laboratories

and personal care at IMCD

African region and benefits from a

South Africa. ‘With warehouses

robust international network and

launched in 2006. Two years

in both Algiers and Tunis, IMCD

the cross-fertilisation of technical

later, IMCD set its African

ensures a premium service

expertise and market knowledge to

and focused approach, a strong distribution

network and in-depth market knowledge are some of the characteristics of IMCD, which set the company apart from its competition. In South Africa, the company has grown extensively since it was

Fast facts:

expansion plan in motion, establishing an office in Tunisia in 2008, Algeria in

with fast and reliable delivery.’ Following the acquisition of Chemical and Solvents

realise its full business potential. The company also has a sales office and a large warehouse

2011 and Kenya

in 2016, IMCD Kenya

facility in Mohammedia, Morocco

in 2016. IMCD

has established a

to ensure a premium service


| QUARTER 2 2017 | P C Africa


with fast and reliable delivery. Speciality chemicals’ distribution services and local expertise for IMCD MAROC are provided by IMCD Iberia, covering a range of market sectors including pharmaceuticals, coatings, plastics and textiles.

ETHNIC HAIR CARE EXPERTISE The global company’s strong technical competence is

with customers and suppliers alike,

equipment, supplier collaboration

creating growth opportunities on

and consumer reports allow us

the African continent.

to keep ahead in the game, and ensure we are driving innovation

ADDED VALUE, FLEXIBILITY AND INNOVATION IMCD is not just a raw materials’ supplier. Worldwide, the company is highly focused on providing its customers with added value by constantly investing in its staff members. ‘This includes training and mentorship programmes, which take

with our customers.’ The company will strive to continue its African expansion


place at supplier level,’

company is actively represented at all major international

within the greater personal care

pharmaceutical and cosmetics

segment. There are nine personal

industry trade shows.’ Its transparent working

worldwide, including South Africa.

partnerships are fully aligned

A 10 th quality centre located in

with the strategies and targeted

The Netherlands complements

objectives of its principal partners,

the global company’s Centre of

ultimately focussing on their

Excellence offering.

brand promotion. ‘We are flexible and follow a focused approach

Excellence specialises in Ethnic

through strategic hubs to deliver

hair and skin care product

total business simplification

development to support the

for both our principals and

region. It was launched in 2014

customers,’ she adds. Thanks to IMCD’s business

formulations for the Ethnic market.

opportunity management system,

It is headed by Ana da Costa,

the global company enjoys a

IMCD South Africa’s customer

strong technical and commercial

solutions manager, who is an

business development focus to

expert on Ethnic hair care and

ensure growth. This is coupled with

provides technical support to

its market-focused approach and

IMCD’s team in Brazil driving

dedicated technical and sales

innovation in this region and

personnel, which are of the highest

further afield in countries like Italy

calibre. ‘IMCD has excellent market

and France.

coverage and multi-level customer penetration supported by an

care Centre of Excellence is

innovative product portfolio of high-

fully equipped with world-class

tech ingredients from established,

laboratory equipment, such

long-term partnerships with industry

as a centrifuge, a high-tech

leading principals.’

microscope to study the properties

acquisition targets, in regions where product gaps and opportunities have been identified and in hubs presenting an agile supply chain model and storage

time’ approach. •

to certain application areas

The Ethnic skin and hair

and through possible

have in-depth knowledge of current

Centres of Excellence specific

and is equipped to develop new

be done organically

strength to support IMCD’s ‘just in

industry trends and the global

In South Africa, the Centre of

approach. This will

MacGregor explains. ‘Our teams

supported by fully equipped

care Centres of Excellence located

using a highly strategic

The company also offers

of Ethnic hair, and an incubator for

world-class technical support to

accelerated stability testing.

its customers through detailed

Like the other Centres of

engagement with its principals.

Excellence located worldwide, the

She adds: ‘Innovation and new

Ethnic hair and skin care Centre

product development are critical to

of Excellence strives to build,

IMCD’s growth strategy. Constant

maintain and expand relationships

investment in personnel, laboratory


HAIR CARE IS BIG BUSINESS THE ECONOMICS OF the African hair care industry is shifting towards afro-textured, natural hair. The natural hair care movement is part of a rising global wellness consciousness about the ingredients used in hair and skin care products. ‘Various factors have contributed to the growth of the natural hair movement, such as a need to embrace one’s cultural identity, to nurture natural beauty and the global chemical-free trend,’ MacGregor explains. ‘As a result, there is a definite decline in the demand for relaxers and an increase in demand for cleansing conditioners, products that aid manageability, scalp-care products, sulphate-free shampoos and products that nourish treated hair.’ As the African hair care market becomes increasingly sophisticated, MacGregor believes the industry is likely to see more ingredients tested on African hair to develop market-relevant efficacy data. This is crucial to ensure products meet the specific needs of various consumer groups on the continent.

P C Africa | QUARTER 2 2017 |



New pilot fermenter for manufacturing APIs

Bosch has launched a new pilot fermenter for laboratory and pilot scale cultivation of active pharmaceutical ingredients (APIs). The pilot fermenter was presented at Interpack 2017 in Duesseldorf. The modular, fully automatic pilot fermenter from Bosch is suitable for R&D applications, clinical studies in the lab and industrial production of small batches

fed-batch processes, as well as perfusion and continuous processing. Whereas the cell culture is essentially left to itself in batch processes, fed-batch processes

cultivation processes and cell cultures.

continue to supply nutrient solutions during

Interchangeable mixing and dosing

fermentation, resulting in higher cell density

technologies ensure an optimal

and product yield. In turn, perfusion is

fermentation process can be achieved,

suited for the highest possible cell density –

matching customers’ needs,’ explains

the fermenter is continuously supplied with

Medina. Depending on the mixer, the

fresh media and equal amounts of waste

fermenter can process batch sizes from

media are extracted from the cultivation

eight or 13ℓ, up to 50ℓ. In addition, reactor

process by the system’s two hollow

sizes for 100 and 200ℓ are available for

fibre modules.

pilot and small industrial batches. Bosch


The system is built as a package unit; the

has complemented its existing portfolio

integrated wall allows clear separation of

anufacturing complex

of fermentation devices, which previously

the technical section from the operational

compounds using

offered production volumes ranging from

area. The fermenter is designed for easy

biotechnological methods

500 to 5 000ℓ.

cleaning and sterilisation (CIP/SIP). Its

continues to grow in

integrated periphery includes a steam

industry. ‘Whether the desired substance


is an insulin preparation or a medication

Depending on requirements, the system

for targeted cancer therapy – our

can be equipped with one of several

bioprocessing systems deliver optimum

interchangeable mixing elements,

product quality and excellent process

designed for different cell types and

results,’ says Dr John Medina, sales director

process controls. The mixer regulates

at Bosch subsidiary, Pharmatec. ‘With the

inflow of liquids or gases needed for

new pilot fermenter, Bosch has rolled out

cell cultivation. Sensitive cells require

a modular, fully automatic system suitable

gentler technologies like the air lift

for R&D applications, clinical studies

module, while more robust cells can be

in the lab and industrial production of

stirred mechanically.

importance in the pharmaceutical

small batches.’

generator, exhaust air cooler, and a heating/cooling device for the bioreactor.


The feeding of process media takes place fully automatically. As an alternative

Depending on the task-specific


to the installed peristaltic pumps and

requirements, up to four interchangeable

two additional pumps in the periphery,

process sensors are available. This concept

The goal when designing fermentation

Bosch highlighted a separate module

enables quick installation at available

systems is to create optimal growing

at Interpack, which offers high-precision

spaces with limited media availability

conditions for microorganisms such as

dosing for liquid media with four syringe

and quick changeover. For subsequent

cells and bacteria. These systems must

pumps. The system periphery can be

downstream processes and the formulation

meet regulated cGMP standards for

expanded to include additional peristaltic

of the final injectable liquid, Bosch offers

the pharmaceutical industry. Bosch’s

pumps for the dosing of extra process fluids.

comprehensive solutions that can be

highly versatile pilot fermenter satisfies

seamlessly combined with other products

equipment is suitable for a diverse range


of applications.

The pilot fermenter is equipped with

specific requirements to produce APIs; the

‘Thanks to its modular design, the bioreactor is well suited to various


| QUARTER 2 2017 | P C Africa

a gentle rotary pump and a second reactor vessel, so it supports batch and

from the company for filling and packaging liquid pharmaceuticals. •

Bosch –

An especially wide spectrum of solutions. For an especially wide smile.

As a full-service provider of process and packaging technology, intelligent software, and comprehensive services for the pharmaceutical and food industries, we are always at your side: along the entire value-added chain and across the entire life cycle of your systems. For solutions that excite in every respect: simple, economical, reliable. Processing. Packaging. Excitement.


A cross section of a fleshy Bulbine frutescens leaf revealing the juice used to produce BotanicaTimola Image credit: Eva Ackermann

Unique actives from Africa

Botanica Natural Products’ (Botanica) mission is to improve skin health by promoting the use of indigenous plants and traditional knowledge from Africa. The company has fast developed a name for itself as a producer and distributor of safe and effective natural botanical ingredients developed and produced in Africa.


he beauty industry in sub-Saharan

uneven complexion. As a result, the skin care industry is

Africa is developing steadily. With

still dominated by Hydroquinone containing skin-lightening

a growing middle class, the South

products. Comparatively, the hair care industry in Africa

African market represents about

is focused on hair relaxers, which have the negative side

US$5 billion of the continent’s total; Nigeria

effect of irritating the scalp. However, in recent years,

and Kenya follow closely behind. The

African consumers have increasingly preferred products,

Ivory Coast, Ghana and Senegal clearly

which include ‘natural’, ‘traditional’ and ‘herbal’ label

show that a stable political system and

claims. In Nigeria, African Black Soap, a traditional

growing economy bode well for the cosmetics industry.

product known as Dudu Osun, is enjoying a resurgence in popularity thanks to its ability to clear skin spots

The African skin care market has traditionally focused on dealing with dark spots and

and blemishes.

SKIN SOOTHING ACTIVE In South Africa, Botanica – a speciality producer and distributor of cosmetics ingredients, is gaining attention as an established, respected supplier of active ingredients from Africa for Africa. The company was established in 2009 as a joint venture between French, German and South African partners. Botanica is the first commercial producer of Bulbine Frutescens leaf juice in the world.

THE BOTANICALITENIACINAMIDE COMBINATION SIGNIFICANTLY REDUCED INDUCED PIGMENTATION AFTER ONLY 14 DAYS The company’s flagship product, BotanicaTimola is a cold-pressed extract. It has scientifically proven soothing, healing and moisturising attributes when added to skin care formulations at three percent. This explains why the product has traditionally been used as an effective remedy for various skin, scalp and hair conditions. The company supplies its Bulbine frutescens leaf juice in two grades. BotanicaTimola is the refined, processed grade, which is marketed as an active ingredient for cosmetics, while BotanicaSap is the cost-effective alternative aimed at the soap segment. In Africa, BotanicaTimola is used as an effective post skin-lightening soothing active or posthair relaxing treatment. The popularity of the product is augmented by its proven stability in skin lighteners, which typically have a low pH, and in hair relaxers with their high pH.


| QUARTER 2 2017 | P C Africa

Carob leaves, the source of BotanicaLite Image credit: Eva Ackermann



been determined in comparison

with its high expectations of seeing

to three commercially available

results quickly.

Due to an increasing awareness

skin lightening actives: Arbutin;

of the negative effects of

Kojic Acid and Niacinamide.


Hydroquinone, interest is growing

The IC50, half maximal inhibition

Botanica Natural Products prides

in safer skin lightening alternatives.

concentration for Tyrosinase,

itself on conducting extensive

Although African consumers

was determined for these four

are accustomed to products

actives. Results showed the

that contain high amounts of

IC50 for BotanicaLite is

Hydroquinone, legislation regulating

considerably lower

focuses on being

its use is being implemented at most

than that of Arbutin.

involved throughout

ports of entry. Changing consumers’

when introducing new active ingredients. The company


In addition, in vivo

mindsets has been a challenging

studies were performed

endeavour for brand owners and

to determine the

manufacturers, as consumers are

performance of

used to seeing visible skin lightening

BotanicaLite when used

results within 15 days of application.

in combination with

Botanica’s latest product offering,

research and development

the value chain, from agriculture to processing and

BotanicaTimola can be incorporated into the water phase of a cosmetics formulation. The recommended concentration level is between two and five percent.

Niacinamide, a known

distribution, to ensure quality is maintained. Botanica’s product range, experience in exporting to Africa and results of its clinical trials,

BotanicaLite is formulated using a

Melanose transfer inhibitor.

targeted extract of the leaf of the

Study results showed the

mean the company has the

Carob tree (Ceratonia siliqua). It is


specified to address skin blemishes

combination significantly reduced

to traditional skin lightening and

and for lightening skin tone. This

induced pigmentation after only

effective skin soothing ingredients. •

is achieved by inhibiting the

14 days, concluding the safe and

production of melanin in a safe and

effective skin lightening results of the

sustainable manner. BotanicaLite’s

product. This also means the product

efficacy in inhibiting Tyrosinase has

is well-suited to the African market

solutions to end the search for a safe, sustainable alternative

Botanica Natural Products –

BotanicaLITE® SAFE SKIN LIGHTENING BotanicaLITE® is a South African skin lightening active extracted from the Carob (Ceratonia siliqua) tree. By inhibiting the production of melanin in a safe and sustainable manner, the carob leaf extract has been clinically proven to: Lighten skin as a safe & cost effective alternative to hydroquinone, bleach or other skin lighteners Treat skin blemishes & promote even tone within 28 days at a recommended dosage of 3% Reduce the darkness of skin spots that form due to age or exposure to the sun Combined with BotanicaTIMOLA®, an effective soothing active, BotanicaLITE® offers a safe, effective solution for cosmetic formulations focused on skin lightening.

CONTACT US AT | Canterbury Farm MR 254, PO Box 361, Alldays, South Africa 0909

P C Africa | QUARTER 2 2017 |



Essential natural

hair care ingredients Ethnic hair has unique needs. Natchem, with its large portfolio of natural ingredients from Greentech, offers multiple solutions for Africa’s hair care industry.


The generally recognised

hen it comes to hair

film on skin, much like the activity

care, it is vital for

of silicone. However, in contrast to

composition of Murumuru butter

African consumers to

silicone, which is synthetic, Murumuru

includes Lauric, Myristic, Oleic,

know how certain

ingredients perform on their hair. Natchem has realised

Palmitic, Stearic and Linoleic acids.

is of natural origin.


Thanks to its fatty acid

Owing to its lipidic nature, Murumuru

content, Murumuru butter

butter forms a protective layer on the

In Kenya in 2014, conditioners and scalp. It prevents experienced the fastest in Africa’s hair care water loss from skin’s value growth of 7.5 percent. Oil moisturisers and braid sprays are market. The company cutaneous layers, included in this category; these teamed up with its leaving it betterproducts are extremely popular for principal, Greentech, moisturised and regrooming Ethnic hair. There is also to study the efficacy of balanced. an increase in the trend towards existing raw materials Murumuru butter is natural hair and natural hair styles, away from treated hair. and new complex oil obtained from kernels of Source: www.beautycompositions on Ethnic hair. the Astrocaryum murumuru

hair fibre and smoothes the cuticle.

global hair care product claims

Following test protocol, scanning

this need and the gap

is ideal for use on dry skin

for potential growth

This is because 52 percent of

tree, which is native to South

America and widespread in the

Its natural gloss brings a desirable shine to dry and damaged hair. It can be formulated into shampoos, conditioners and moisturising skin care products. When tested on Ethnic hair in a conditioner formulation containing one percent Murumuru butter, the ingredient performed well against a placebo product.

use words such as botanical or

Amazon Basin. The natural fatty

electron microscopy (SEM) analysis

natural, and more and more African

extract is produced by cold-pressing

showed smoothened hair scales

consumers are including natural

the palm tree kernels.

and regulated hair fibres owing to

oils and butters into their hair care regimes. The more common oils are olive, avocado and coconut oil, which are known for their ability to penetrate the hair shaft. While these

Figure 1: Greentech’s Murumuru butter visibly repairs damaged hair fibres



Murumuru butter

Murumuru butter

oils are excellent and tried and tested, there are other more exotic oils and butters, which are highly beneficial for natural hair. These include Murumuru and Kpangnan butters, and Argan, Baobab and Inca Inchi oils, which are produced by Greentech and distributed throughout Africa by Natchem.

BEAUTIFUL BRAZILIAN BUTTER During the ’40s and ’50s, Murumuru butter was highly valued in the USA and Europe, when it served as an ingredient in vegetable creams and soaps. Today the ingredient is widely acclaimed for its benefits in hair and skin care products. Soaps containing Murumuru butter are known to leave a protective


| QUARTER 2 2017 | P C Africa

ETHNIC CARE Figure 2: Greentech’s organic Lipactive Baobab oil is effective is protecting and restoring the hair fibre





A baobab tree in Burkina Faso, West Africa

the damage repair properties of

68 percent oil, which is composed of

and prices, and provides quality

Murumuru butter (see Figure 1).

Linoleic, Palmitic and Oleic acids.

standards and training.


Greentech’s organic Lipactive Baobab oil is obtained from the seeds of the Baobab tree. This

Baobab oil is mostly widely used

product contributes to restoring

in cosmetics as an emollient and

hair’s smoothness and is ideal for

a skin and hair conditioner. The oil

use in restructuring hair care and

is produced using the fruit of the

shampoo products.

Baobab tree, which is native to various parts of Africa. According to Greentech, the

The company first began producing Lipactive Baobab oil in Burkina Faso in 1999 when

Organic Lipactive Baobab oil


has a nutritive power associated with its numerous fatty acids. These contribute to restoring hair’s smoothness, improve the hydrolipidic layer on the scalp and give hair its luminosity. When tested at one percent in a conditioner versus a placebo, SEM images show how organic Lipactive

leaves, barks, seeds and fruit pulp of

Greentech implemented a fair trade

Baobab oil coats the hair cuticle,

the tree present interesting cosmetics

and sustainable supply chain in

therefore softening and protecting the

and nutritional properties. The ovoid

collaboration with an autonomous

hair fibre (see Figure 2). •

fruit, also known as ‘monkey bread’

group. The programme involves

contains brown seeds surrounded in

a group of more than 50 women

white pulp. These seeds are rich in

to which Greentech donates

proteins and thiamine. They contain

equipment, guarantees quantities

Greentech – Natchem –

P C Africa | QUARTER 2 2017 |



Beauty of


After a week of interviewing consumers both with natural and with relaxed hair, the company now has a solid base to work from and panel tests are already underway. The testing is taking place within the newest area at the Centre of Excllence – the hair salon. These studies will involve African consumers to ensure relevant data is generated, which the

Croda South Africa’s personal care technical team is now company’s local customers can then access for new product development. ideally equipped to support product claims for the African skin and hair care markets. The company recently A CLOSER LOOK AT installed state-of-the-art equipment to assess hair THE FACILITY DID The hair salon is located breakage and has a new salon for panel testing. YOU KNOW?


t’s been 18 months since Croda South Africa officially opened its Centre

Aeysha Jakoet and Dineo Modisaesi from Croda South Africa recently successfully completed the Coschem Diploma in Cosmetic Science.

of Excellence. Since the original opening, the company has continued to invest in the centre. ‘Most consumers desire strong, healthy hair that is full of shine. Regardless of this desire, consumers do not want to give

ABOVE The new hair salon within Croda South Africa’s Centre of Excellence BELOW Croda South Africa’s new Dia-Stron Tensile Tester

laboratory, which is equipped with temperature and humidity controlled climatic chambers for hair testing. The salon facility will focus primarily

on supporting claims for Type VI to VIII Black African hair. All studies will be conducted by trained hairdressers, led by Croda’s application scientists. A new Dia-Stron Tensile Tester has been

up damaging regimes such as relaxing

installed in the Centre of Excellence to

and styling. Constant grooming and

measure the tensile (strength) properties of

combing can also damage the hair

hair fibres at different humidities. The Dia-

cuticle. We were looking for a way to not

Stron Cyclic Tester is designed to simulate

only measure the tensile properties of

the repeated tensile stress hair fibres

hair, but also analyse hair as it degrades

experience during brushing and combing.

over its lifetime,’ says Croda South Africa’s

A repeated force is applied to single hair

technical manager, Christien Gordon.

fibres and the number of cycles required for failure (also known as ‘fatigue testing’) is


evaluated at different humidities.

To further identify the key hair care


needs of African consumers, the

The local team also has expertise in

company’s marketing team recently

formulation and claim substantiation for

undertook extensive studies on consumer

skin and sun care applications. Testing

focus groups.

protocols are conducted using state-of-

‘The main reason for our focus group

Croda South Africa’s personal care team

adjacent to the efficacy

the-art equipment to generate consumer-

studies was to confirm our observations

appealing claims such as moisturisation,

of the African hair care market, to identify

oil control, barrier repair, barrier integrity/

gaps and use the information gathered

disruption, skin flaking/dryness, shine

as a basis for testing the right products

reduction, counter-irritancy, and even skin

on the right hair types,’ adds Croda

tone. All testing is carried out in a humidity

South Africa’s marketing manager,

and temperature controlled room to

Chantel McCallum.

remove any environmental influences on product efficacy. Croda also offers expertise in formulating with its extensive portfolio of metal oxides. Sun care studies are conducted using the Labsphere UV2000S and Suntest CPS+ for in vitro SPF measurements. ·

Croda South Africa –


| QUARTER 2 2017 | P C Africa


Masking skin imperfections


he African beauty and skin

feel while masking skin imperfections like

designed products that are easy to use,

care market has taken off,

uneven tone. This multi-functional, patent-

offer production versatility and can enrich

with Euromonitor International

pending emulsion also offers long-lasting,

the look, feel and performance with a

predicting an annual growth rate of

moisturising effects.

single additive.’

five to 10 percent in the sales of beauty and personal care products. Research data shows Africans are increasingly looking to products that are more suited to local conditions. For African women, key skin care concerns include dark spots and uneven complexion,



Velvesil E-Gel PMF emulsion is an ideal formulation ingredient for toners, serums, sunscreens and foundations, as well as leave-in and rinse-off hair care products. It can help achieve a cushioning sensory

whereas Western women first focus on addressing wrinkles and fine lines.


‘Multi-functional ingredients such as

with additional soft focus benefits out of

Velvesil gels are increasingly sought

the aqueous phase in formulations. This is

after by cosmetics manufacturers. This is

because it has a refractive index close to

mainly thanks to their ability to enhance

the skin to deliver a ‘blurring effect’. Velvesil E-Gel PMF emulsion is easy to use

Momentive Performance Materials

sensory and performance benefits while

(Momentive), represented throughout

reducing the complexity and costs

and suitable for cold processing. It is also

Africa by Savannah Fine Chemicals, has

associated with producing products in

paraben-free. •

launched a silicone-based cross polymer

the colour cosmetics, skin and hair care

network emulsion for aqueous-based skin

segments,’ says Beatriz Blanco, senior

care, cosmetics and hair care formulations.

business director at Momentive. ‘Our

Velvesil E-Gel PMF emulsion can help formulators deliver a luxurious, soft-skin

talented research and development teams continue to develop creatively

Momentive – Savannah Fine Chemicals –


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P C Africa | QUARTER 2 2017 |



Keratin alternative for stronger, healthier hair ChemSystems’ international technology partner, Tri-K has developed a new botanical solution for keratin therapy. Fision KeraVeg18 is an effective and sustainable alternative to hydrolysed keratin to protect, condition and repair hair. By Elzbieta Kasprzyk, Catherine Centro and Saso Efremovski


hese days, having beautiful hair

allows for recoil after the fibre is stretched.

to hydrolysed keratin has recently been

has a multitude of meanings for

In the cortex, three alpha helices are

identified. It consists of a cohesive solution

consumers. While the concept

bundled together to form microfibrils. These

of wheat and soy amino acids with the

is influenced by factors such as

are grouped together and embedded

ethnicity, regional concerns and trends,

in a matrix of hardened, high

gorgeous locks are always synonymous

sulphur protein. Pigment

with strong, healthy looking hair.

(melanin) is also

New hair care product launches are

embedded in the cortex.

becoming more sophisticated and reflect

The last primary layer,

many of the desires traditionally reserved for

the medulla, consists of

skin care. One example is hair care products

an open space within

with anti-aging benefits. These products

the centre of the hair.

typically address concerns of an ageing

This is often discontinuous

population, which include loss of volume,

and sometimes completely

enhanced breakage, roughness, dryness

absent of fibres.

and poor flexibility of the hair. These needs are also applicable to younger generations. Unlike the skin, hair is incapable of selfrepair. If left untreated, it begins to look and feel unhealthy as damage accumulates.


Most symptoms associated with damage are localised to the

18 mimics the functional ratios of amino acids in human hair. Arginine reinforces hair fibres to resist breakage while serine acts as a precursor to ceramides and aids in providing intense

conditioning properties for hair. Threonine is an essential amino acid,

areas of concern.

balance in the body.

Normal grooming such as brushing hair

(approximately 90 percent keratin). It

can damage the cuticle by lifting and

also contains water, lipids, pigments and

breaking individual scales, making it

trace elements. Keratin is comprised of 18

difficult to comb and style. Damage

different amino acids and forms different

to the cuticle also reduces shine.

shapes (or conformations) depending

Heat is destructive; blow dryers

on its location within the fibre. The three

and hot irons cause the inside

primary layers of hair fibres consist of the

of the hair fibre to expand

cuticle, cortex and medulla. The cuticle is

quickly, which can crack the

the outer, protective layer. It consists mostly

hardened cuticle. Chemical

of beta (ß)-keratin, which is organised into

treatments and UV exposure

flat sheets referred to as scales. This form

further compromise to

of keratin contains cysteine and other

the cuticle’s integrity and

amino acids such as arginine, cysteic

increase porosity. This leaves

acid, isoleucine, leucine, methionine,

hair more susceptible

phenylalanine, proline, threonine and

to frizzing or becoming

tyrosine. The cortex lies under the cuticle

excessively dry and brittle.

and constitutes approximately 80 percent

A compromised cuticle

of hair’s mass and is responsible for its

also allows chemicals to

strength, elasticity and flexibility. In the

penetrate fibres easily and

cortex, polypeptides are coiled into a

weaken the inner cortex.

| QUARTER 2 2017 | P C Africa

sources. Fision KeraVeg

which supports maintenance of protein

Hair is composed predominantly of protein


fermented vegetable

cuticle and cortex, which is why they are key


keratin. This shape provides resiliency and

and threonine derived from

For decades, hydrolysed keratin has been used to fortify hair and counteract damage. Yet as demand increases for vegan friendly products, the need for a keratin alternative has never been greater.


helical structure referred to as alpha (α)-

addition of pure arginine, serine

A vegetablebased alternative

Efficacy testing on chemically damaged African and Caucasian hair shows that Fision KeraVeg18 addresses the needs

ETHNIC CARE Figure 1: Fision KeraVeg18 is shown to help counteract hair concerns by improving elasticity and strength. In these tests, Fision KeraVeg18 appeared to be more effective than hydrolysed keratin

of both the cuticle and cortex. For all studies, performance comparisons were made between the plant-based material and hydrolysed keratin. Both ingredients were tested at two percent, either in aqueous solutions (elasticity and strength of Caucasian hair) or in a shampoo and conditioner (for the remaining studies). African hair was chemically damaged with a no-lye relaxer (Soft Sheen Carson Healthy Gloss 5 kit), while Caucasian hair was triple bleached (both chemical processes simulate real-life damage). Tests measured improvements in elasticity, strength, wet and dry combability, antioxidant capacity and a sensory evaluation.

TESTS WITH PROMISING RESULTS Elasticity and strength These characteristics are two of the defining qualities of healthy hair. Elasticity is an

results than hydrolysed keratin

important attribute of healthy hair and is

(see Figure 1 and 2). It was

described as hair’s ability to be stretched

also shown to increase the

without damage. As a result, the more

strength of African hair by

elastic the hair, the less prone it is to styling

3.9 percent and Caucasian

damage. The stronger the hair, the better

hair by 21 percent (see

it can withstand frequent combing forces

Figure 1 and 2). In addition

without breaking.

to leaving hair stronger and

In these studies, a Dia-Stron MTT175

more resilient, these results

Miniature Tensile Tester with Dia-Stron Crimp

also suggest the botanical

Assembly System was used to test hair’s

alternative may help

elasticity and strength. The instrument

repair damage caused by

measures elasticity as elastic extension,

chemical processing.

which is the amount of force that can be applied to stretch the fibre before it

Wet and dry combing

becomes damaged. Strength is measured

When hair is wet or heated,

as total work, which is the amount of force

hydrogen and salt bonds

required to break the fibre.

break and reform after the

Fision KeraVeg18 increased elasticity of


hair dries and returns to

means hair is weaker and more susceptible to breakage when wet. Extra care needs to be taken when combing wet hair as the process can be highly damaging. When dry, damaged hair is typically more difficult to style and comb. Poor manageability often results in the need to use excessive combing force, which can further damage and break individual hair fibres. For this study, the DiaStron MTT175 Miniature Tensile Tester was adjusted to the combing orientation and used to measure the

African and Caucasian hair fibres by 16

normal temperature. Both bonds contribute

force required to comb wet and dry hair.

and 18 percent respectively, proving better

to hair’s elasticity and strength, which

Combing forces were measured after one

Chemsystems, Consumer Specialities division, is a trusted distributor and local manufacturer of speciality and commodity raw materials into the Personal Care and Homecare industry offering:

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• Range of Surfactants • Silicones and Silicone additives • Preservatives/Biocides • Conditioning agents • Concentrated blends such as body lotions, conditioners, antiperspirants etc. • Botanicals • Actives

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2017/06/20 1:17 PM

P C Africa | QUARTER 2 2017 |


ETHNIC CARE Figure 2: Fision KeraVeg18 is effective on a variety of hair types and can help improve properties such as elasticity and tensile strength. In addition to leaving Caucasian hair stronger and more resilient, these results suggest Fision KeraVeg18 may help repair damage caused by chemically processing the hair

to improve hair flexibility and allow for easier knot removal. For dry hair, panelists rated the Fision KeraVeg 18 as delivering equal performance benefits to hydrolysed keratin for knot removal, styling ease, shine and improvements in frizz and static. In addition to leaving hair looking and feeling healthier, these results demonstrate the multiple benefits Fision KeraVeg18 can deliver to fortify and rejuvenate hair.

Antioxidant capacity Hair is continuously exposed to various forms of oxidative damage including Reactive Oxygen Species (ROS), which are free radicals that can damage the hair and scalp. ROS are generated by UV and heat treatments, and can accelerate hair’s ageing, weaken its fibres and irritate the scalp. Hair is extremely sensitive to oxidation when wet, and as a result, can be damaged easier. and five applications of either test material.

alternative to hydrolysed animal keratin by

Fision KeraVeg18 was shown to improve

delivering equal combing benefits to wet

hydrolysates, peptides and amino acids are

wet combing by nine and 43 percent

hair and superior combing benefits to dry

understood to show significant antioxidant

respectively, after one and five applications

hair. Improvements in combability are an

ability. The antioxidant capacities of

compared to the placebo shampoo and

indication of a smoother, healthier cuticle.

Fision KeraVeg18 and hydrolysed keratin

conditioner. The hydrolysed keratin was

Plant and animal derived protein

were measured with the Oxygen Radical

shown to improve wet combing by 15 and

Sensory evaluation

43 percent respectively, after one and five

Five women of various descents were

expressed in Trolox equivalent units. Trolox

applications. Compared to the placebo,

asked to evaluate the performance of

is a water-soluble analog of Vitamin E.

dry combing was improved by 59 and

Fision KeraVeg18 versus hydrolysed keratin

Results indicate that Fision KeraVeg18 has

67 percent with the vegetable ingredient,

in a half head study on mannequins with

an antioxidant capacity equivalent to

after one and five applications, while 38 and

Caucasian hair. Both materials were added

152μM of trolox while hydrolysed keratin is

53 percent improvements were achieved

separately to a commercial shampoo

equivalent to 157μM. This data indicates

respectively with hydrolysed keratin.

and conditioner at two percent. The

Fision KeraVeg18 provides similar antioxidant

panelists were asked to evaluate specific

protection as hydrolysed keratin to help limit

effectively improves manageability in

characteristics of wet and dry hair after one

oxidative damage to the hair and scalp. •

wet and dry hair by making hair easier

and four applications. The evaluations were

to comb. In addition to improving the

determined on an 11-point scale from zero

overall styling experience, the ingredient

(worst) to 10 (best).

This data indicates the plant material

may help limit further damage. The study results also confirm the material is a good


| QUARTER 2 2017 | P C Africa

In the wet hair evaluation, panelists favoured the Fision KeraVeg18 for its ability

Absorbance Capacity method and

ChemSystems – Tri-K –


Scratching the science of itching SymMollient W/S is ideal for shampoos, bath and shower products. This hydrophilic emollient not only improves skin’s tolerance of surfactants but also acts as a skin and scalp soothing agent. By Abby Vorster


tested in a clinical randomised single-blind study versus a placebo. The volunteers, ranging in age from 18 to 60, all suffered from itchy scalp. Each volunteer tested both shampoos, one by one, according to a randomisation chart. Evaluation was conducted on both the short and long term effects of SymMollient W/S, as well as its overall tolerability. The results are detailed in Figures 1 and 2. ‘Study protocol followed a two-fold approach to evaluate the instant

hen Symrise first

not freely available on

launched SymMollient

the market.’

W/S in 2007, the hydrophilic emollient

After establishing in vitro the itch-relief properties

was positioned to improve skin’s

of SymMollient W/S,

suppleness by restoring its lipid

Symrise went on to test

content (refatting effect). Its efficacy

the hydrophilic emollient

was proven in a series of in vitro

in vivo on 20 Caucasian

and in vivo studies, confirming

volunteers (13 males and

its anti-dehydrating effect and

7 females).

that it improves skin’s tolerance of surfactants. This aqueous blend of Trideceth-9


and long-term benefits of SymMollient W/S. Firstly the instant itch decrease was evaluated after one, five, 15 and 30 minutes, while the long-term scalp soothing benefits associated with itching and erythema were assessed after seven days,’ Jung concludes. ·

Two percent SymMollient W/S formulated in a common mild shampoo base was

Symrise –

and PEG-5 Isononanoate was put to the test again in 2015 to confirm its

Figure 1: SymMollient W/S instantly decreases the itching sensation

soothing properties and ability to help combat itching.

ADDRESSING GLOBAL CONCERNS Scalp irritation is linked mainly to dandruff though it is not limited to this condition. According to Symrise, irritations such as itching and redness are often associated with aggressive treatments like relaxers, an oily scalp or external factors such as cold and dry climates. Product intolerance is a key concern for consumers with scalp irritation issues. When purchasing hair and scalp products these consumers first want to make sure the products

Figure 2: SymMollient W/S imparts long-term relief from itching and erythema

won’t irritate their scalp. To assist customers in meeting consumers’ evolving personal care needs, like scalp irritation, Symrise screened more than 15 000 compounds to establish their itchinhibition abilities. Lars Jung, product manager from Symrise explains: ‘The combination of ingredients in SymMollient W/S provided the best itch-inhibition performance. This includes PEG-5 Isononanoate, which is a unique Symrise product produced specifically for our company and

P C Africa | QUARTER 2 2017 |



Novel silicones for hair and skin

Wacker has launched several new products for the cosmetics industry. These include a silicone fluid emulsion, silicone elastomer gel, amino silicone microemulsion, and a phenyl silicone fluid.


ith Belsil DM 5700 E, formulators can develop

particularly mild shampoos. This silicone fluid emulsion promotes foam formation and has a noticeable conditioning effect even in low quantities.


This finely dispersed emulsion

Belsil DM 5700 E is suitable for use in sulphate-free shampoos. The miniscule droplets of silicone fluid in the emulsion, which are just 300 nanometers in size, are deposited selectively on the hair fibres. This achieves a more effective silicone deposition than less finely dispersed silicone

of a silicone fluid in water was one

emulsions and consequently offers

of the highlights presented by

greater efficacy. Belsil DM 5700 E

Wacker at in-cosmetics Global.

makes hair softer, smooth, supple

Belsil DM 5700 E is a low-viscosity,

and easier to comb.

milky-white liquid that can be used to formulate shampoos to


clean and condition hair. Unlike

Belsil EG 6000 can be used as an

conventional silicone emulsions, it contains an emulsifying system that consists of an alkyl polyglucoside and sorbitan laurate. These nonionic surfactants are based on renewable raw materials and make the silicone fluid emulsion particularly mild and gentle on skin.

The transparent, colourless silicone elastomer gel, Belsil EG 6000 is an ideal additive for moisturising creams, mascaras and deodorants

active agent in decorative and moisturising cosmetics. This product imparts a pleasant skin feel, which generally cannot be achieved using conventional silicone elastomer gels. The gel also ensures the spreadability of a formulation on skin. Shampoos formulated with Wacker’s new hair conditioning agent, Belsil DM 5700 E generate a particularly fine-pored foam that looks and feels creamy

During a panel test performed in Wacker’s applications lab, participants described the novel skin feel as supple, mild, nongreasy, silky and dry. Belsil EG 6000 is based on a traditional addition-curing silicone elastomer and contains a linear volatile silicone fluid as its liquid component. The new product differs from conventional silicone elastomer gels, which use either a cyclic or a non-volatile silicone fluid as the liquid base. As a result, it can significantly improve the skinsensory and rheological properties of moisturising creams, mascaras and deodorants.

MICROEMULSION AND A GLOSS AGENT Belsil ADM 8105 E is characterised by its excellent conditioning properties. Hair treated with this amino silicone microemulsion is said to be silky and easy to comb. Typical applications are conditioners, hair masks and shampoos, particularly transparent shampoo formulations. Belsil PF 22, which was also showcased for the first time at in-cosmetics, has allowed the Munich-based chemical group to expand its silicone fluid product range to include a traditional phenyl silicone fluid. This colourless, low-viscosity fluid has a refractive index of 1.46, greater than that of polydimethylsiloxanes. It can act as a gloss agent for various cosmetics formulations. Preparations formulated with Belsil PF 22 give a high-quality impression both visually and to the touch. They also spread easily and do not feel too tacky. When applied, the phenyl silicone fluid forms a thin fluid film, which not only improves gloss, but also makes hair or skin soft and supple, while developing water repellency without affecting skin breathing. The phenyl silicone fluid reduces, for example, the tackiness of sunscreen formulations while increasing their water resistance. ·

Wacker –


| QUARTER 2 2017 | P C Africa


Five ways to

keep cleanrooms clean The production of pharmaceuticals requires effective solutions that can guarantee excellent hygiene, top product quality, and safe working conditions for operators. Cleaning equipment supplier Nilfisk aids in quality control by guaranteeing maximum hygiene in clean rooms in the least possible time.


he pharmaceutical industry presents demanding challenges for the industrial and institutional cleaning

sector. Gavin Herold, Nilfisk’s GM of


versatile with stand-on, walk-behind and ride-on models, allowing greater access to divergent spaces. Small, battery-operated microscrubber driers can be used in tight areas.

3. ECO-FRIENDLY The latest technology either radically reduces use of detergents or completely replaces them with water or bio-products. Nilfisk’s Ecoflex system temporarily boosts

Africa and the Middle East, says it is

water and detergent for more

the most complex and demanding

aggressive cleaning tasks while

of all industries the company

using the minimal amount in

operates in worldwide. ‘Standards of

other areas.

hygiene, safety and productivity are extremely high to provide the end


user with a safe, effective product.’

By doing the job quicker, better and

Keeping the clean room clean

more reliably, investment in new

is the biggest challenge of all.

technologies produces a quick

According to Herold, there are five

ROI in terms of reduced labour

key areas where the company’s next

costs, resources and maintenance.

generation industrial vacuums, dust

Floors are deep-cleaned and dried

containment filter units, pneumatic

in one single pass, even in small

conveyors, scrubber driers and high pressure washers can make a big difference.

1. SPECIALISATION Equipment specifically designed for clean rooms works best. It maintains the purity in the environment, collects and contains

ABOVE The Nilfisk VHW321 is one of the smoothest industrial vacuums, which boasts GMP conformity for pharmaceutical, food and chemical applications BELOW Nilfisk’s VHW421 industrial vacuum cleaner meets all requirements in terms of hygiene, cleanness, safety and performance

and congested areas. Specific machines for different spaces and one-pass efficiency are just some of the ways productivity can be substantially improved. There is also the upside of increased safety through reduced risk of slippery floors and accidents.

any kind of dust and avoids cross


contamination. The key factor for

It is possible to achieve significant

clean rooms is zero contamination,

reductions in consumption of water,

which requires a HEPA-filtered or

electricity and disposables. Recent

ULPA- filtered vacuum, depending

water shortages in South Africa,

on the nature of contaminants to

especially in the Western Cape, have

be controlled. You should expect

highlighted the value of new orbital

the machinery to meet the most

scrubbers, which paired with a

demanding of IS04 standards.

squeegee design, leave floors dry in

Accessories also matter and should

a single pass and markedly reduce

be FDA certified with metal parts

water consumption. The machinery

made in stainless steel AISI 316L and

also eliminates the need to use

able to be sterilised in autoclave.

multiple chemicals, which ultimately

2. VERSATILITY Nilfisk’s new generation of equipment is more compact and

reduces supply chain costs. •

Nilfisk –

P C Africa | QUARTER 2 2017 |



Motion solutions on display at KITE 2017 Omron will showcase its flagship Sysmac motion solutions at the KwaZulu-Natal Industrial Technology Exhibition (KITE), which will take place from 26 to 28 July at the Durban Exhibition Centre in KZN, South Africa.


he exhibition is perceived as a major platform for Omron’s product offerings and solutions.

The company’s motion solutions incorporate robotic and visual


our target industries, creating an

hand to interact with customers.

our presence in, and offerings to,

Application engineers will also

the region.’

be available to field high-end

SERVING QUALITY Products that will be exhibited are

believe there is a lot of potential in KwaZulu-Natal. KITE has a good track record of attracting the relevant stakeholders in most of

LEFT BELOW The LD Mobil Robot RIGHT BELOW Omron’s NX remote

experience with visitors. Omron’s management team will be present to demonstrate the

products, servos and variable speed

company’s total commitment to

drives. Human-machine interface (HMI) and various general

its customers.

control components will also be


revealed at the event.

KITE 2017 will provide an informal, yet

‘We will be focusing on any customer looking for cost-effective

and control solutions that meet, and

general manager, says: ‘We

wealth of product and application

NX remote I/O, vision systems, safety

and innovative automation, motion

Victor Marques, Omron’s country

technical queries and share their

the Sysmac motion and PLC control,

KITE 2017 is a biennial event with a track record that spans almost 33 years.

inspection control.

Field sales engineers will be on

ideal opportunity for us to highlight

professional platform for customers to approach Omron concerning specific solution enquiries. ‘We offer one of the most, if

even exceed, their requirements,’

not the most, comprehensive

Marques highlights.

variety of products and solutions

The company has experience and references in areas such as motion and drive control, PLC and HMI as

to meet our customers’ industrial automation needs.’ This ranges from a basic general

well as automation networks, visual

electronic component level to high-

inspection control and robotics.

end products. ‘Our stand will be clean, uncluttered and, at a glance, will give potential customers a good overview of what we have on offer from a total-solutions point of view,’ Marques concludes. •

Omron –

Your specialist automation partner As a partner in all your automation requirements we offer personal solutions, knowledge and expertise. Whether your automation requires a simple and economical solution, or your target is advanced, highspeed control, you can find what you need in Omron’s line-up of quality products and solutions. Omron Electronics ZA 011 579 2600


| QUARTER 2 2017 | P C Africa


Best practices

to stop counterfeiting Organisational techniques are continually being improved to drive down the production of counterfeit pharmaceuticals and cosmetics. More companies have been investing in security features to improve their packaging. P C Africa looks at anti-theft systems and how they’re assisting in the fight against fake products.



ompanies from all industries have been investing resources and money in brand protection. This has been done over decades to limit the risk exposure to

product piracy, counterfeiting, unlicensed production and more. Despite all efforts, numbers of counterfeit goods continue to increase, resulting in monetary loss and damage to a brand’s reputation. Jacqueline Gan, deputy MD and co-founder of NanoMatriX, provides answers on what can be

the most expensive. To ensure

It is also important that all

no money is wasted on

security features are verifiable,

project failures, we have a

to the point of recycling.

set of questions a company


should answer to shortlist the security features that can contribute positively


to an efficient brand

JG: Inspectors can be

protection strategy.

consumers, professional

Jacqueline Gan

inspectors, members of the


agencies. Each inspector has a set of

JG: Companies should identify specific

capabilities and different inspection

JG: Each company’s supply and sales

problems that will adversely affect a brand

tools available. A brand’s ideal inspector

channel is unique. It evolves over time.

or product, prioritise them and recognise

would be the consumer. However, a small

There are plenty of opportunities to

what is required to overcome each

percentage of consumers are willing to

damage a brand because of the amount

problem. Potential problems are:

take an active inspector role. Professional

of stakeholders involved in the supply

• counterfeits that can enter authorised

inspectors are hired. They are proficient

chain. Besides protecting a brand with patents and trademarks, companies are advised to apply security features, which

sales channels • fake products sold on e-commerce platforms

supply chain or law enforcement

in using speciality inspection equipment, which helps organise raids, yet their service comes at a cost.

can detect and provide evidence that

• customers buying fakes unknowingly

‘product crime’ has occurred. This way,

• distribution diversion

consumers, law enforcement or courts

• parallel trading

can efficiently investigate the occurrence

• production overrun

of product crimes and punish any wrong

• product return fraud


doers efficiently and adequately. The good

• warranty fraud.

JG: A clear communication policy and

news is the wide range of available security

to select the ‘best’ security feature for


your product.

JG: Security features comprise security inks,

features have been growing steadily over the years. Yet, it can be challenging


taggant materials, security labels with or without serial numbers, secure barcoding and more. A security feature should be applied in a specific location or at different

JG: It is imperative to be aware there is

ones. For example, if a security feature can

no one-solution-fits-all formula. The most

be applied on a conveyor belt in a factory,

effective anti-counterfeiting or brand

it does not mean it can be applied on a

protection programmes are not necessarily

pharmaceutical pack containing tablets.

action plan should be determined before the security feature is deployed. The following should be considered: 1. H  ow to communicate the presence of counterfeit(s) to the customer? 2. What should be done with the counterfeit product if it is a single product or several containers? 3. W  hat should be done with the person or organisation manufacturing and/or selling the counterfeit product? 4. W  hat needs to be communicated to government authorities, if required?

P C Africa | QUARTER 2 2017 |




SMART LABELS POISED FOR GROWTH The global smart label market is expected to reach US$16 billion in value by 2025. This is driven by anti-counterfeit and antitheft applications.


Each year, 700 000 people are killed globally by counterfeit medicines and Africa contributes 100 000 of these deaths.

ABOVE NanoMatriX’s TrackMatriX Lock QR with covert and overt information for secure serialisation BELOW A ticket and taggant high security detector

‘Smart labels are preferred over

According to Grand View Research (GVR), companies are

conventional bar code systems

investing to improve their anti-

in retail, fast-moving consumer

theft systems to prevent revenue

goods, and logistics industries’. The

loss and inventory damage.

research organisation predicts that

A smart label is defined as a

these labels will increasingly be

responsive electronic device

used for dynamic display of product

embedded in the object body

information and pricing. Health care and pharmaceuticals

as an identification slip. They are

are estimated to be the fastest

configured with chip, antenna and

growing end-user segments of


bonding wires, which help in realtime tracking of assets and goods. Aside from being used to fight theft and counterfeiting, smart

the market with rising use in spoil detection of hospital goods, test samples, medical equipment and drug tracking. •

labels can help companies keep tabs on inventory, engage with purchasers and make sure a

NanoMatriX International –

product’s integrity has not been compromised. There are some smart labels being used to detect EARLIER THIS YEAR, the World Customs Organization (WCO) and International Institute of Research Against Counterfeit Medicines (IRACM) revealed a new record of 113 million counterfeit drugs seized by custom officials in Africa. These illicit products totalled about €52 million (more than US$58 million). The seizure is part of the WCO and IRACM’s initiative against fake medicines. During the operation, antimalarial drugs, anti-inflammatories, antibiotics, analgesics and gastro-intestinal medicines were among the confiscated products. More than two million doses of anticancer drugs were discovered. The biggest interceptions were made in Nigeria, Benin, Kenya and Togo. This is the fourth joint operation in the fight against fake medicines on the continent. The WCO and IRACM have also cited the Kenyan port city as one of the biggest trafficking points in Africa. This is the point of entry for most counterfeit veterinary products and human medicines.


| QUARTER 2 2017 | P C Africa

chemicals, or to position or tilt packaging so that delicate goods aren’t mishandled before reaching the consumer. GVR says radiofrequency identification labels accounted for more than 60 percent of global volumes in 2015. This proportion is expected to grow over the next nine years owing to rising demand in retail sectors. Retail inventory was the largest application segment in 2015, accounting for around 22 percent of the global smart label market volume, where labels are primarily used for real time tracking of goods. NanoMatriX’s holographic and nonholographic security labels for brand protection and consumer engagement

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Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review Africa Quarter 2 2017  

P&C Africa June explores safer alternatives to harmful skin lightening ingredients and products to achieve and manage healthier, natural Eth...

Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review Africa Quarter 2 2017  

P&C Africa June explores safer alternatives to harmful skin lightening ingredients and products to achieve and manage healthier, natural Eth...