Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review Africa Q1 2018

Page 1



Quarter 1 2018 | Volume 3 | Number 1


evolving to bring new products to market INGREDIENTS: Simple, innovative & effective

Healthy hair fixes

Perfect pigments for colour cosmetics

We have received valuable enquiries across all business areas in Merck.

– Merck, 2017

SAPHEX 2018 The SAPHEX 2018 exhibition and conference is now established as the “go-to” networking and business event for anyone working in the South African pharmaceutical manufacturing industry. The exhibition brings together all the key suppliers to the region’s pharmaceutical manufacturing base, exhibitors presenting a full range of APIs, excipients, and drug formulations; pharmaceutical packaging solutions; processing machinery and equipment; laboratory equipment; and clean room technology. The exhibition attracts decision makers from all the leading pharmaceutical manufacturers in the region and from across Africa, and provides a forum for manufacturers and their suppliers to forge long-standing, mutually beneficial partnerships to ensure future commercial success. SAPHEX 2018 also hosts what is now regarded as the leading conference dedicated to the promotion of best practice in pharmaceutical manufacturing in South Africa. The SAPHEX conference showcases impartial case study driven presentations from pharmaceutical manufacturers, attendees learning from the experiences of their peers in the industry.

1 st - 2 nd November, 2018 Gallagher Convention Centre, Johannesburg, south Africa

Learn more:



Quarter 1 2018 | Volume 3 | Number 1 PHARMACEUTICAL & COSMETIC REVIEW AFRICA


5 Ugandan refugee recycles soap to save lives

22 Enhance your solid dose


6 Ambitious plans for Ghana’s pharma industry 7 Croda establishes an office in Nigeria

manufacturing productivity



8 analytica Lab Africa announces 2019 show dates

How to formulate metallic makeup Create stunning colour cosmetics with Merck


Ashland innovates for African hair types Hydrate and repair hair with Xylishine

28 Mondi signs up to Climate Savers 29 Industry 4.0 and its impact 30 Unique systems and components from Schott

Less damaging relaxers a reality with Croda


16 Sustainable shea butter from Olvea 18 ChemSystems celebrates six decades of innovation


A natural approach to beauty


HAIR CARE 10 12 14


Natural ingredients for hair and skin care

Create colours

for your colour 26


30 P C Africa | QUARTER 1 2018 |



Free from trend emerging in Africa


id you know up to 70 percent

learn more about natural actives for African

of women of colour prefer to

hair and skin care products.

wear their hair natural? This is according to a survey of 1 200

In our pharma focus this quarter, I Holland reveals why using multi-tip

women by beauty box company Cocotique

tooling is the best solution to increase

and, while the data and beauty box brand

productivity in solid dose manufacturing.

are US-based, they give a good indication

If you’re producing tablets in the African

of global Ethnic hair care trends.

pharma industry, this article on page 22 is a

Hair care products that are paraben free, sulphate free and safe for chemically

‘must read’. Our colour cosmetics feature on page

treated hair are also very important to 98

25 sticks with the theme of meeting the

percent of the women surveyed. The free

needs of modern African consumers.

from trend in particular is not isolated to

While it can be difficult to develop the right

the US market as we’re seeing more and

makeup for darker skin tones, partnering

more African consumers turning to free from

with the suppliers of pigments featured in

products in their quest for a healthy hair

this edition can help you produce super

care journey.

pigmented makeup products that help

The focus on healthy hair is big in this edition of Pharmaceutical


consumers highlight their best features. On page 29, our packaging feature

Review Africa. On page 10, you can

takes a look at a series of topics affecting

read about Ashland and IMCD South

the industry. Climate change, Industry 4.0

Africa’s drive to help brand owners and

and a solution to help African pharma

manufacturers produce ‘free from’ hair

manufacturers reduce total cost of

care products that meet the needs

ownership when producing medicines

of multi-ethnic hair. Croda is another

while improving quality and

ingredient supplier on the healthy hair

safety for patients,

mission. The company recently did a

are discussed in

study on its protecting and conditioning

this section.

active, Crodafos CES, which is ideal for less damaging relaxer formulations. The study

I hope you enjoy

results are revealed in this edition.

the read!

No formulation is complete without advanced ingredients, so we’ve rounded up



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the latest developments at various suppliers,


which are raising the bar when it comes

John Psillos

to innovation. Turn to page 16 now for an


interesting read on shea butter, to celebrate

Irna van Zyl

a 60 th anniversary with ChemSystems and

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| QUARTER 1 2018 | P C Africa

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Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review Africa is published by New Media Publishing four times a year and circulates to manufacturers, packers and distributors of pharmaceuticals, health products, cosmetics, detergents, soaps, toiletries and allied products. The journal is an up-to-date source of reference for company directors, factory and production managers, marketing executives, engineers, import agents, buyers and research personnel. While precautions have been taken to ensure the accuracy of its contents and information given to readers, neither the editor, publisher, or its agents can accept responsibility for damages or injury which may arise therefrom. All rights reserved. © Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review Africa. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, photocopying, electronic, mechanical or otherwise without the prior written permission of the copyright owners. Pharmaceutical

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Recycled soap saves lives After fleeing civil war-torn Uganda in 1979, Dr Derreck Kayongo became a refugee in Kenya. He later immigrated to America to attend university, where he was inspired to start an organisation that has contributed to a remarkable 30 percent reduction in child deaths globally. This is his story.


r Kayongo explains how

people affected by natural

contribution to humanitarian aid

his journey from refugee

disasters. Dr Kayongo’s original

and for making a difference in

to CNN hero began: ‘I

vision for the organisation was to

was preparing to take a

also include micro-loans and

shower in my hotel when I discovered

training for soap makers

the many kinds of soap in the

in communities around

room. There was hand soap, face

the world, and this is

soap, body soap and shampoo. I

now underway.

had never seen so much soap for one person.’

The organisation recently joined forces


communities in the USA. The city of Atlanta has designated 5 May as Global Soap

Dr Kayongo will be returning Project Day, which to Africa this year to share his occurs annually. inspiring story and recipe for In addition to his work success at the annual SAPICS with Global Soap and Conference in Cape Town, his humanitarian efforts, South Africa, from 10 to 13 June. Visit conference. Dr Kayongo is the CEO for more for the National Centre information about for Civil and Human Rights. the event.

He began to wonder what

with Clean the World, to

happened to the partially used

add even more impetus

soap that disappeared from his

to both NPOs’ humanitarian

room each day. ‘I was shocked to

efforts. Jointly, they are now

discover that it was thrown away.’

active in more than 90 countries.

involved in a wide range of human

Motivated by his experiences

‘Through this partnership, even

rights issues.

as a refugee and knowing that

more trash will be diverted

in-crisis communities are often

from landfills, more soap can

TED TALK speakers in Charleston

without basic necessities, including

be recycled and distributed,

(USA) and travels the world

soap, Dr Kayongo decided to

more vulnerable people can be

sharing his knowledge and

create the Global Soap Project – a

reached, and there is an even

life-changing international aid

greater focus on the sustainable

organisation that collects discarded

impact of this lifesaving mission,’

soap bars from hotels, sanitises and

he enthuses. Dr Kayongo’s

reprocesses them, and distributes

visionary soap recycling

the finished products to vulnerable

operation is flying high and

military rule of

populations worldwide. This

making a real difference

dictator Idi Amin.

simple idea is making a significant

in millions of lives. Today,

contribution to the fight against

he sits on the board of

hygiene-related diseases, which are

the soap project, but no

voiceless, since many

the number one killers of children in

longer runs the non-profit

people affected

at-risk communities.


‘Lack of proper hygiene claims

Located in Atlanta, the centre is

In 2014, he joined the elite

experiences, which include being Ugandan refugee turned entrepreneur, Dr Derreck Kayongo

forced to watch as his family and neighbours were rounded up, randomly selected and killed by a firing squad under the

‘I am giving a voice to the

by displacement and civil war never

yet I discovered that 800 million bars


of soap are thrown away each year.

Among the honours

Kayongo is thrilled to

That is 2.6 million bars of soap every

bestowed on Kayongo

be able to bring his

single day,’ he explains.

is that of CNN hero. In

story back to Africa

2011, he was one of the

through the platform

more than 1.8 million lives every year,


have a chance to be heard,’ he states. Dr

individuals recognised

provided by leading

by the media and

supply chain and

Global Soap has given millions

news platform for

operations management

of bars of soap to refugees and

an extraordinary

association, SAPICS. •

P C Africa | QUARTER 1 2018 |




New ingredient

meets modern personal hygiene needs

GHANAIAN VICE-PRESIDENT, Dr Mahamudu Bawumia has

IN THE SEARCH for alternatives to

tasked all players in the pharmaceutical industry to work toward

organohalogen actives, Symrise

the cosmetics industry with

making Ghana the go-to destination for pharmaceuticals. This

developed SymGuard CD, a safe,

effective alternatives to traditional

is according to a report posted on the Business & Financial

skin and environmentally friendly

antimicrobials. We always aim to

Times website.

ingredient. It’s an effective alternative

offer customers and consumers

to triclosan and triclocarban, which

cutting-edge solutions,’ says Dr

the private sector, to pull resources together to turn Ghana

are being removed from formulations

Florian Genrich, Senior Global

into a vibrant pharmaceutical research and development and

for various reasons.

Product Manager at Symrise.

‘I urge all the players in the pharmaceutical industry, including

‘We are dedicated to providing

Due to consumer over exposure,

production hub,’ he said.

SymGuard CD is based on non-

environmental concerns and

organohalogen technology. This

March, Dr Bawumia noted this will not only support healthcare

regulatory changes, conventional

multifunctional ingredient protects

delivery but also provide jobs and their associated benefits to

organohalogen systems, such

the skin and the cosmetics product.

millions in Ghana.

as triclosan or triclocarban, are

It is a colourless, low odour, easy

being removed from cosmetics

to process liquid and can be

manufacturing facilities, which would be in the most competitive

products. The result is brand

used in different kinds of personal

position to meet all current international Good Manufacturing

owners and manufacturers

hygiene products such as soaps,

Practices standards, including the WHO-prequalification

are now incorporating modern

oral care products, refreshing gels

Speaking at the maiden Ghana Pharma Awards in Accra on 2

‘This will lead to a generation of modern pharmaceutical

antibacterial ingredients

standards, and to produce high quality affordable medicines not only for local consumption, but also for export,’ he added. Government, according to Dr Bawumia, is currently looking at the Ghana Pharmaceutical Sector Development

and deodorants.

into personal care

‘Thanks to its versatile

products. Anticipating

characteristics, SymGuard CD

this development, Symrise

offers a great deal of potential

developed SymGuard

Strategy document and will consider the proposal to set

for cosmetics manufacturers,’ Dr

up a National Bio-equivalence Centre in collaboration with

CD as a dedicated

the Pharmaceutical Society of Ghana, Pharmaceutical

ingredient that meets the specific needs of

Manufacturers Association and

The company will unveil this new product at in-cosmetics Global in

hygiene and surfactant-

other stakeholders.

Genrich adds.

Amsterdam, taking place from 17 to

based cosmetics products.

19 April.

SA genomics centre to enable personalised medicine THE AFRICAN GENOMICS Centre – a first for the

Prof Gray comments, ‘This novel field of research

African continent – is already under construction at the

harnesses the science of genomics for personalised

South African Medical Research Council (SAMRC) head

medicine. Knowledge of the DNA sequence has

office in Cape Town, South Africa.

become an important part of understanding disease.

In February, SAMRC cemented its collaboration with

By establishing the sequence of an individual’s genetic

the Beijing Genomics Institute (BGI), signing a formal

material, it is possible to identify mutations which are

agreement that guarantees an exciting future for this

specific to that person. These genetic tools will help

state-of-the-art research facility.

us understand South Africa’s diverse gene pool and

BGI is at the forefront of the global scientific progress on genetic science and DNA sequencing, while South Africa has identified an opportunity

convey insights on treatments for common diseases like diabetes.’ The centre will be a vital national asset, able to

Dr Li Ning and Prof Glenda Gray at the signing ceremony

Dr Li Ning, BGI’s chief development officer said

through this partnership to build the country’s capacity

contribute to better understanding factors that impact

the collaboration will strengthen bilateral relations

for whole human genome sequencing.

on the health of South Africans and inform strategies

between China and South Africa, as both countries

to improve their response to diseases. This means

have contributed to the facility in terms of research

new era of medical research and means that we

conditions that contribute to the heavy disease burden

capacity, funding, equipment and other infrastructure.

join a small, but growing, group of countries that are

in the country – such as hypertension, stroke, heart

‘BGI congratulates SAMRC on its commitment to

pioneering this type of innovation,’ says Professor

disease, diabetes and cancer – can be diagnosed

scientific advancement. We have already learned much

Glenda Gray, SAMRC president. The signing ceremony

faster and more accurately. Treatments can also be

from each other and are truly enthusiastic about future

took place on 16 February on top of Table Mountain in

delivered in a more targeted, effective and cost-

scientific breakthroughs as well as the many benefits

Cape Town.

efficient way.

these will bring to Africa,’ Dr Li said.

‘The development propels South Africa into a


| QUARTER 1 2018 | P C Africa


Demand grows for Croda expands its footprint in Africa

Italian packaging machinery in Africa SEVEN COMPANIES COORDINATED by the Italian Packaging Machinery

WITH A FOCUS on niche, fast growth markets, the global

Manufacturers’ Association (Ucima)

speciality ingredient company has established an office in

and the Italian Trade Agency (ITA)

Nigeria, on Victoria Island, Lagos, to ensure proximity to its customers. According to Sébastien Moughli, Croda’s regional sales manager, this development will translate into increased revenue generated from the territory because ‘customers

took part in Propak East Africa. This is one of the most important exhibitions focused on processing and packaging technology in East

appreciate the presence of knowledgeable Croda staff in the region and the local availability of innovative, sustainable and high performance ingredients’.

Africa. The exhibition took place from 17 to 19 March at the Kenyatta International Conference Centre

Over the past five years, the company has completed a

(KICC) in Nairobi.

number of market surveys in Nigeria and has been actively

The Siad Macchine Impianti exhibition stand at Propak East Africa

Ucima and ITA coordinated the

marketing the Croda product offering. ‘As a result, we have

Italy country pavilion which featured

a good understanding of market needs, together with an established customer base,’ he explains. ‘Our activities are focused on three market areas, including personal care, home care and oil and gas. We also have a strategy in place

the region saw 13 percent growth

Galdi (Treviso), Goglio (Varese),

in total imports of packaging

MG2 (Bologna), R. Bardi (Parma),

machinery, worth €147.6 million.

Siad Macchine Impianti (Bergamo),

to investigate opportunities in crop care due to a recent acquisition in this market sector.’ With this clear scope of activities, Croda recently appointed Olumide Olutayo as country manager, who will be responsible for the company’s activities in the region. Olutayo has a honours in chemistry, MBA and a post graduate diploma in economics coupled with 14 years’ experience, nine of which include chemical sales and the other five in management.

in the East African region, the

Machinery (Parma).

top destination for packaging

In 2016, East Africa as a whole,

percent share (€55.7 million in 2016,

Eritrea, Ethiopia, Djibouti, Kenya,

up 42.4 percent from 2015), followed

Madagascar, Malawi, Mauritius,

by Ethiopia (€34.8 million, up 66.3

Mozambique, Rwanda, Seychelles,

percent from 2015) and Tanzania

Somalia, Tanzania, Uganda, Zambia

(€22.6 million down 19.3 percent on

and Zimbabwe, imported packaging

2015 figures).

second largest exporter to the

Excellence and back office staff.

region with a market share of 18.6 percent, behind Germany and ahead

Olumide Olutayo, Croda’s country manager for Nigeria

machinery is Kenya with a 30.5

including Burundi, Comoros,

tune of €182.7 million. Italy is the

by the South African Centre of

Analysing the individual countries

SMI (Bergamo) and Tropical Food

and processing machinery to the

Croda’s Nigerian office will be supported

In the first three quarters of 2017,

seven major Italian companies:

of China.

In the first three quarters of 2017, Kenya and Tanzania both saw further acceleration with respect to the same period in 2016 (up 27.9 and 38.6 percent respectively), while Ethiopia experienced a weakening, down 33.4 percent.

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New venue and show dates for analytica Lab Africa Set to become the hub for Africa’s laboratory industry, analytica Lab Africa will take place for the first time from 9 to 11 July, 2019, at Gallagher Convention Centre in Johannesburg, South Africa.


he new show dates and venue are a result of Messe München’s

acquisition of Lab Africa and subsequent integration into the organiser’s analytica network. The trade fair is set to continue growing in the promising African market. Claudia Sixl, exhibition group director of the analytica trade fairs at Messe München, comments: ‘The integration of Lab Africa into the analytica

network gives the event an even more professional appearance and greater international visibility. The further development of rebranding the trade fair from Lab Africa to analytica Lab Africa, is the first big step in the new direction.’ A new logo, the extended trade fair name and new website are not the only changes. In 2019, the trade fair will be held at Gallagher Convention Centre for the first time. As one of Africa’s largest exhibition venues with modern infrastructure, Gallagher offers analytica Lab Africa plenty of space for development opportunities in the exhibition and conference sector.

DESIGNED FOR THE AFRICAN MARKET As part of the worldwide analytica network with events in Munich (Germany), China, India and Vietnam, the trade fair will combine different topics and innovative, international products and solutions to meet the specific requirements of the African market. The show will focus on new developments in the areas of laboratory technology, analytics, biotechnology and diagnostics. It will target a wide audience of laboratory professionals from areas that play an important role in Africa’s development, including R&D representatives, quality control personnel, laboratory professionals and decisionmakers from the pharmaceutical, medicine, agriculture, mining, environmental technologies, and the food and beverage industries. In addition to trade visitors from South Africa, participants and visitors from Namibia, Botswana, Kenya, Nigeria and Ghana are also expected at the 2019 show. Visit for more information. •

Beautyworld brand expands

into Saudi Arabia


audi Arabia’s vibrant beauty industry has been underlined by a new exhibition in Jeddah, offering global suppliers of cosmetics, skin and hair care, salon supplies and fragrances a new pathway to the Middle East’s

largest beauty and personal care market. The launch of Beautyworld Saudi Arabia 2018 comes as consumer and professional spending on beauty and wellbeing continues to rise, with Euromonitor International estimating Saudi’s retail value for beauty and personal care will be worth US$6.9 billion in 2021, compared to US$5.4 billion in 2017. Beautyworld Saudi Arabia is organised by Messe Frankfurt Middle East in partnership with Saudi-based ACE Exhibitions, and is the fifth Beautyworld event globally, following annual shows in Dubai (Beautyworld Middle East) and Japan (Beautyworld Japan, Beautyworld Japan West and Beautyworld Japan Fukuoka). ‘Saudi Arabia still offers plenty of untapped potential, so the time is right for the world-renowned Beautyworld brand to make its debut on Saudi soil,’ says Ahmed Pauwels, CEO of Messe Frankfurt Middle East, which also organises Beautyworld Middle East. Saudi visitors to Beautyworld Middle East have increased steadily over the last six years, from just under 1 400 in 2012 to 2 500 in 2017, making it the third largest visitor country to the show.’

LAUNCH PARTNERS AND SHOW FEATURES The excitement surrounding the inaugural event has been underlined by the 15 launch partners that have already signed on, including Firmenich, Symrise, IFF, Nazih Group, Sawaya International, Al Haramain Perfumes, My Perfume Factory, Identiscents, Neo Perfumes, Piramal Group, Creative Beauty Source, Oudh Al Anfar, Unitrade, Beauty Care Company and Forever 52 make up. They will be joined by an expected 100-plus exhibitors from around the world when doors open for the first time from 14 to 16 October 2018 at the Jeddah Center for Forums and Events. Hadi Al-Harith, CEO of ACE Exhibitions, says: ‘We’re excited to launch Beautyworld Saudi Arabia as part of our drive to bring new industry sectors into Saudi Arabia in tandem with the Saudi Vision 2030. Saudi Customs statistics show the weight of imported cosmetics in the past year amounted to approximately 44.6 million kilograms.’ Beautyworld Saudi Arabia 2018 will cover these product groups: fragrance; cosmetics and skin care; personal care and hygiene; natural and organic; hair care, nails and salon supplies; and machinery, packaging, raw materials and contract manufacturing. Visit for more information about Beautyworld Saudi Arabia. •


| QUARTER 1 2018 | P C Africa




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Happy hair

Solutions for natural, healthy locks A healthy hair journey is what most men and women want. Ashland is targeting this and other hair care needs with its new solutions to help brand owners and manufacturers produce ‘free-from’ products for healthy, natural hair. By Abby Vorster


n Africa, hair care blogs

speciality chemicals company

to consumers looking for natural

and analyst reports show

seeks to transform the efficacy,

gentler offerings.

consumers are clearing

usability, allure, integrity and

out their cabinets, ditching

profitability of its customers’ hair

products formulated with harsh

care products.

chemicals. Ijeoma Kola, a

In February, Ashland’s global

WHAT’S ON OFFER FROM ASHLAND? Sustainable and natural

Nigerian-born, New Jersey

marketing manager for hair

Ashland produces a number of

raised millennial and hair care

care, Dave Popplewell visited

ingredients in its biotHAIRapy range,

blogger is helping thousands

South Africa for an interactive

which are natural or naturally

of women transition from

hair care seminar hosted in

derived. These can be used in

processed and relaxed hair

conjunction with its South African

various hair care products, including

to natural locks. Another

agent, IMCD South Africa.

shampoos, conditioners, treatments

Nigerian blogger, Anayo of the

Dave Popplewell

‘Observing how dermo-

and styling products.

Mayvenn Hair team, also shares

cosmetic brands have been gaining

content predominantly on natural

popularity in the US, hair care brands

solutions to improve formulations

hair care after ‘a relaxer broke off her

are also heightening their remedial

that are free-from, for example,

healthy hair in just eight months’.

claims as consumers take a more

sulphates and silicones etc. The

holistic approach to their wellbeing,

platform is backed by extensive

terminology used on these and other

viewing hair as an extension of the

information on sustainable sourcing

African hair care blogs, including

skin,’ Popplewell commented.

and sustainability audits to meet

There is a lot of common

‘texture envy’; ‘looser, neater hair’; ‘natural curls’; ‘hair strengthening’ and ‘long and healthy, natural hair’ to name a few. These hair care needs are on Ashland’s radar, as the

Stylist Khumalo shows how AquaStyle SH-100 helps define the curls of natural African hair

He says consumers perceive free-from claims as the biggest

The biotHAIRapy platform offers

customers’ needs in this regard. Included in the BiotHAIRapy

indicator of natural and/or organic

biofunctional platform for hair

hair care products. Products with

is a series of five offerings, each

the presence of oils also appeal

targeting a specific aesthetic benefit and inspired by key biological markers. The Hair Stemness System, based on rice protein, may help mitigate the stress factors known to compromise hair growth capital. The Hair Fullness System, based on corn protein, may support better intercellular communications – a process essential for hair density. The Hair Keratin System, based on yeast extract, may contribute to structural proteins required for stronger, healthier-looking strands. The Hair Melanin System focuses on hair colour while the Hair Detox System has been developed to support ageing hair.

High shine, beautiful style Ashland has also launched a new styling polymer, AquaStyle SH-100.


| QUARTER 1 2018 | P C Africa

Two South African hair bloggers who attended the Ashland IMCD South Africa hair care seminar

Khumalo shares his views on the functionality and usability of the anti-frizz cream, with delegates who attended the hair care seminar


This advanced, patentpending, styling polymer provides long-lasting hold under humid conditions. Primarily targeted at crystal clear gels, it enables easy pick-up from the jar and smooth distribution on hair. Studies also show it provides excellent shape memory with no flaking


High shine is evident

•e xcellent high humidity resistance

Ashland’s FiberHance bm on the model’s natural solution is another great ingredient hair, after treating it Henkel South for African hair. Curly hair is prone to with the anti-frizz cream Africa’s R&D testing formulated with two breakage, but this unique product can percent AquaStyle SHand salon studio be used to help strengthen hair from 100 and straightening it within. While it can be used in various manager. Khumalo with a flat iron applications, such as mousses, used an anti-frizz sprays, hair colour and bleach cream formulated spreadability, four for treatments, Ashland has plans to with two percent manageability, five for no test the efficacy of FiberHance bm solution in a relaxer AquaStyle SH-100 to style residue, four for initial hold formulation. a model’s natural hair. He

• smooth comb-through

said the model’s hair felt silky

• no tack upon drying

and smooth, and the product did

•n o flaking.

not leave any residue on his hands

Ashland and IMCD South Africa put

or the model’s scalp.

or tackiness. AquaStyle SH-100 can be used in spray gels, cream gels, waxes and pomades, as well as non-aerosol mousses and sprays. The consumer benefits of AquaStyle SH-100 polymer include: •g ood initial stiffness •d urable, all-day hold

the new styling polymer to the test in an interactive hair care demo

led by David Khumalo,

and five for its curl memory

Khumalo gave the anti-frizz cream a high score of five for

boosting properties. •

Ashland – IMCD South Africa – worldwide/south-africa

P C Africa | QUARTER 1 2018 |



Repair and hydrate hair with Xylishine CJP Chemicals’ principal, Seppic has developed a hair moisturiser and repairing agent for multi-ethnic hair.


eppic’s new hair moisturiser, Xylishine enhances shine in all hair types. This bioinspired mix of natural

sugars is sourced mainly from wood and brown algae species, Pelvetia canaliculata. Sugars derived from wood

Pelvetia canaliculata, an algae that grows on rocky shores, is one of the two natural raw materials used to produce Xylishine

hemicellulose have a high capacity for water absorption. They enable

and the other, a rinse off shampoo

strengthening of the structure of cell

tested on Caucasian hair. Results

walls and contribute to the flexibility

showed Xylishine at three percent

of the algae. Pelvetia canaliculata

significantly boosts hair shine and

contains sugars that maintain

helps define curls in frizzy hair.

the hydration vital to its survival

compliant, including in China (IECIC

autumn, the algae instantly gorges

listed). It is easy to incorporate

itself on water to reactivate all its

into any type of hair formulation

biological activities.

(shampoos with/without cationics,

Inspired by nature, these properties are replicated in the

reasons why you should use Xylishine:

The active ingredient is worldwide

during dry summer months. In

conditioners and hair sprays). Audrey Poujade-Fauresse, product

composition of Xylishine to restore

manager at Seppic, comments:

hair’s shine and flexibility.

‘By combining the expertise of our


marine biotechnologies with that of the plant, Seppic has taken up

In ex vivo studies, in rinse off and

the challenge of hair hydration

leave on applications, Xylishine i ntense and deep moisturisation penetrating into the

and proposes Xylishine – an

at three percent repairs the hair

hair fibre

active ingredient offering a rare

fibre and restores deep moisture in

i mmediate improvement of hair shine, curl definition

moisturising intensity to the core of

damaged hair – up to 30 percent

and softness

the fibre, with a visible benefit.’ •

hydration was noted in the core of

suitable for shampoo and conditioner formulations,

the fibre.

and leave on hair treatments

Two in vivo studies were also

compatible with cationics.

performed; one involved a leave on lotion tested on Brazilian hair

CJP Chemicals – Seppic –


CJP Chemicals.indd 1


| QUARTER 1 2018 | P C Africa

+27 11 494 6700

2018/03/23 2:46 PM


More manageable, less damaged hair with Crodafos CES

Many African women relax their hair so that it’s easier to manage. Traditional relaxers are damaging, so Croda South Africa has developed a safer, effective relaxer system using Crodafos CES.


roda South Africa recently conducted consumer focus

them. These bonds are found within cystine molecules, the key

group research and interviewed, amongst others, a group

amino acid within the principle protein of hair – keratin. Strong

of more than 30 African women with relaxed hair. When we

actives in relaxers are known to break and reform bonds within

asked why they relaxed their hair, their feedback centred

the hair, causing damage to the scalp and hair fibres.

mostly around manageability, including the need to comb, style and maintain a neat, longer, more practical hairstyle. Relaxers on the market will give consumers longer, more manageable

DO AWAY WITH DAMAGE Croda’s Centre of Excellence in Johannesburg, South Africa,

hair, but not without damaging the hair fibres and scalp. The chemical

is doing extensive research on African hair with one area

reactions that take place during relaxing cause breakage, altering and

of focus being relaxers. ‘We wanted to produce a relaxer

reforming of different bonds within the hair. As a relaxer diffuses into hair

formulation that will give straight, longer, easier to comb and

fibres, it readily disrupts hydrogen bonds and salt bridges. Disulphide

more manageable hair, without causing damage to the hair

bonds, which covalently link two adjacent polypeptide chains, are very

fibres. Crodafos CES is our solution to reduced hair cuticle

strong bonds and typically require a strong chemical reaction to break

damage,’ explains Christien Gordon, technical manager at Croda South Africa. Figure 1: Virgin African hair tresses ranging from curl type VI to VII

Table 1: Crodafos CES Base Relaxer

Part A

Part B

Part C

Relaxer A


| QUARTER 1 2018 | P C Africa

Ingredient/INCI Name


% w/w

Crodafos CES (Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Dicetyl Phosphate (and) Ceteth-10 Phosphate)

Hair relaxing emulsifier base


Crodacol C90 (Cetyl Alcohol)

Viscosity builder


Petroleum Jelly (Petrolatum)



Mineral Oil (Paraffinum Liquidum)



Water Deionised (Aqua)



Propylene Glycol



Water Deionised (Aqua)



Sodium Hydroxide

Hair straightening active


HAIR CARE Figure 2: Curl Type VII

Crodafos CES has unique emulsifying

Relaxer A

Relaxer B

Relaxer C

Relaxer B

Relaxer C

properties that provide for emulsions with distinctly different characteristics to conventional emulsifying waxes. This optimised phosphate-based emulsifying wax exhibits a combination of natural substantivity, high stability, greater oil deposition and shear thinning (thixotropy) to promote fast, simultaneous release of oiland water-based actives from emulsions. ‘When used in a relaxer formulation, we found the end-result to be noticeably less cuticle damage and greater conditioning,’ she adds.

Figure 3: Curl Type VIII Relaxer A

Crodafos CES is stable over a wide pHrange, so it can be used in AHA skin creams at pH 3 without neutralisation and in hair relaxers at pH 13 with neutralisation in situ. Because its negative charge is concealed, Crodafos CES is considered ‘cryptoanionic’, making it milder than typical anionic surfactants and compatible with many cationics.

COMPARISON AND RESULTS During a recent study, three different relaxers were tested on two different African hair curl types, ranging from type VI to VIII. A Crodafos CES relaxer formulation (see Table 1) was compared to a relaxer formulation typically used in North West Africa (Relaxer B) and a commercial benchmark relaxer typically used in subSaharan Africa (Relaxer C). Relaxer B and C both contained a non-ionic emulsifying wax, consisting of a blend of Cetearyl Alcohol and Polysorbate 60. All three relaxer formulations contained Sodium Hydroxide as the straightening active ingredient. ‘We compared the hair surface quality using Scanning Electron Microscopy (SEM) image analysis and hair wetting properties were evaluated by contact angle measurements,’ Gordon comments.

the hair surface became more hydrophilic,

relaxers B and C. A professional hairdresser

which can lead to the hair looking

analysed various dry and wet attributes

damaged and more brittle.

before, during and after the relaxation

The contact angle measurements were

process. The hairdresser preferred the

obtained using a Kruss Tensiometer K100.

performance, viscosity, rinse-ability and

Figure 4 shows the contact angle relative

look of Relaxer A. During the dry evaluations

to the two different curl types. On both

on hair volume, Relaxer A performed

curl types, Relaxer A showed statistically

particularly well compared to Relaxer B

significant results (p ≤ 0.001) compared to

and Relaxer C. This can be attributed to

Relaxer B and Relaxer C, indicating that

Crodafos CES used in Relaxer A, which

Relaxer A leads to the most hydrophobic

caused less cuticle damage to the hair

hair surface. This means hair looks and feels

fibres and left hair looking and feeling

healthier and is less damaged.

less damaged. •

During a salon study conducted on African panellists with curl types ranging from type VI to VIII, Croda South Africa compared the performance of Relaxer A to

Croda South Africa –

Figure 4: Contact angle of performance of three different relaxers on two different African hair curl types

Figures 1 shows SEM images of the two different curl types of virgin African hair. The hair fibres have smooth, even cuticles arranged along the hair fibre, with no lifted cuticles or cracks visible. Figures 2 and 3 show SEM images of the different curl types treated with the three different relaxers. On the hair fibres treated with the different relaxer formulations you can see the hair surface is not as smooth and aligned as the virgin hair fibres. Relaxer A (formulated with Crodafos CES) shows less surface damage to the cuticles than Relaxer B and Relaxer C, where lifted cuticles and cracks in the hair fibre are clearly visible. With Relaxer B and Relaxer C,

P C Africa | QUARTER 1 2018 |



Good for skin,

greater for economic freedom

Images courtesy of Olvea

International demand for shea butter in the cosmetics and food industries has increased by more than 1 200 percent in the last 10 years. Olvea is doing extensive work to formalise supply chains, ensure fair trade for female cooperatives and guarantee the quality of this prized ingredient.


he butter is produced from

developing a sustainable approach

Oils launched two new products:

the nuts found inside shea

to the shea butter supply chain. This

organic and fair-trade shea butter

fruits, which grow on shea

relies on transparent and long-term

as well as organic sesame seed

trees in the semi-arid Sahel

relations with women’s cooperatives.

oil. These products are the result

Located in Normandy, France,

region of West Africa. Traditionally,

of sustainable supply chains,

nuts are collected and processed by

Olvea is a leading supplier of

which rely on transparent and long

women. About 50 percent of rural

vegetable oils and speciality

term relationships with producer

women in Burkina Faso are engaged as collectors, which is why shea butter is commonly called ‘women’s gold’. Historically, the collecting and processing was not formalised, and the women had little knowledge of market requirements. Yet this


ingredients to the global cosmetics industry. Since 1929, Olvea has been

Shea plays a very important setting up sustainable social and economic role in argan oil supply chains rural areas in Burkina Faso. The in Morocco and shea traditionally made butter, commonly butter, sesame seed oil known as ‘women’s gold’, provides and beeswax supply an additional source of income for chains in Burkina Faso. millions of women in the region so they can pay for their These supply chains families’ schooling and are built on partnerships healthcare needs. defined by a participative

has changed since French

memorandum of understanding.

organisations. By collaborating with these producer organisations, Olvea has been able to develop protocols for a sustainable supply chain approach. The subsidiary has also diversified to offer organic and fair-trade shea butter that is Ecocert approved and certified according to the ESR standard and Fair for Life standard of IMO. This sustainable, fair trade product respects the environment and societal responsibility within

company, Olvea launched

For shea kernels, this approach

the supply chains. It is also the

a subsidiary in Burkina Faso in

allows the company to improve

result of ethical and transparent

2008 with the long term view of

and manage the supply chains

business relationships.

from a quality, sustainability and fair trade perspective.


SUSTAINABLE SUPPLY CHAINS Olvea Burkina Faso is based in Bobo Dioulasso and works with more than

A QUALITY PRODUCT FOR COSMETICS With its high unsaponifiable matter, shea butter has a restructuring effect on the epidermis. Thanks to its soothing and

OLVEA HAS DEVELOPED its own on site eco-refining plant

20 000 women producers for its shea

moisturising properties, it has

in Normandy to offer customers bio-sourced and eco-refined

production. In 2016, the subsidiary

become a key ingredient in a wide

oils with complete traceability. These products, prized by

installed an eco-friendly production

range of skin, sun, lip and hair care

cosmetics laboratories, are used in many formulations.

unit, which saw Olvea increasing

products, as well as makeup.

Internalising the refining step in its production chain gives

its production capacity and

Olvea total control and helps the company reduce the carbon

developing new supply chains.

footprint of its vegetable oils.

Based on industry and consumer demand, in 2017 Olvea Vegetable


| QUARTER 1 2018 | P C Africa

At Olvea Burkina Faso, solvent-free first press shea butter is produced. The company has an annual trituration capacity of around

INGREDIENTS Olvea Burkina Faso

and a detailed control plan for sampling and analyses to ensure daily product quality 3. good manufacturing practices to control chemical, allergenic, 3 500t of shea kernels. It is Ecocert

physical and microbiological

approved to supply organic shea

hazards, according to HACCP

butter that meets the CE 889/2008

principles, to guarantee product

regulation and NOP standards.

quality and safety

The quality of its shea grades

4. w ithin the organisation, at every

and products is guaranteed by a

step of the supply chain, the

quality management system that

subsidiary closely monitors each

involves thorough documentation,

process and procedure from

rigorous procedures and high

kernel procurement to the delivery

performance teamwork. Olvea Burkina Faso also invests in


of the refined shea butter. Olvea’s vegetable oils, argan oil and

an ongoing improvement approach

shea butter are available throughout

centred on four major pillars:

southern Africa from Savannah

1. receptive to customers’ needs

Fine Chemicals. •

with an innovative range of conventional or organic raw materials sourced from West Africa’s natural resources 2. h igh quality procurement at its production site which is supported by a compliant laboratory

Olvea – Olvea Burkina Faso – Savannah Fine Chemicals –

P C Africa | QUARTER 1 2018 |



Celebrating 60 years of sustainable innovation

ChemSystems – the bold, innovative, engaged, green and responsible company – is celebrating 60 years of manufacturing innovation. It was established in 1958 and now operates within the AECI group of companies. By Abby Vorster Bulk storage tanks at ChemPark

teams and warehousing are situated. A second manufacturing plant is located in KwaZulu-Natal (SA) at the Umbogintwini Industrial complex.

CONSUMER SPECIALITIES Striving to supply excellent quality products backed by relevant technical expertise, ChemSystems is known in the industry to provide raw materials that meet the changing demands of the cosmetics, personal care, household products and pharmaceutical industries. Since inception, partnerships have been the heart of its business model – with its customers and in working closely with its technology partners around the world. By combining core scientific expertise with a deep understanding of market needs, ChemSystems delivers raw materials that are safe, effective and sustainable.


The company understands that what ugo Basson, MD of

specialities, industrial and mining, paper

consumers put on their bodies or in their

ChemSystems, which is part

and leather, construction and refractory,

homes matters, so it strives to deliver

of AECI’s speciality chemicals

and foundry and timber.

consistently good quality ingredients that

pillar, says the company’s long

The company operates the five

make a difference. ‘We are proud to be associated with

history is built on a reputation around

aforementioned business units from

passion and commitment to creating

its ChemPark facility, located in

the best technology partners within each

lasting, relevant partnerships with its

Chloorkop, Kempton Park, South Africa.

category of our business,’ says Thureya

employees, customers and suppliers.

This is where its primary manufacturing

Sarlie, sales director at ChemSystems.

ChemSystems has evolved from a highly

facilities producing up to 14 400t per

‘The business unit is now stronger than

industrial focus to one that meets the

annum, product application and

ever after being rebranded in 2015.

exacting needs of several specialised

research laboratories, as well as its

The transition period from 13 previously

industries. These include consumer

sales, marketing and administration

standalone AECI companies into nine

We are far more than an ingredient supplier… Chemsystems, Consumer Speciality Division, supplies chemical raw materials and value-adding services to the cosmetics, toiletry, detergent and pharmaceutical sectors. We offer a one stop solution from our first class international suppliers located throughout the world together with our local production of emulsifying waxes, silicone emulsions, silicone antifoams and conditioning agents. Shonna Twynham (Commercial and Technical) Inland Mobile +27 (0) 79 372 0761 Email

Chem Systems.indd 1


| QUARTER 1 2018 | P C Africa

Victor Berowsky (Commercial and Technical) Coastal Mobile: + 27 (0) 71 684 4163 Email

2018/03/20 9:25 AM


CHEMSYSTEMS DELIVERS RAW MATERIALS THAT ARE SAFE, EFFECTIVE AND SUSTAINABLE The company recognises that customers have different needs and that these needs change – it’s how ChemSystems respond to these needs that differentiates the business from its competitors. ‘We bring the products and solutions, the creativity and innovation agglomerated businesses has been

The warehouse capacity at ChemPark spans 3 500m2 of non-flammable goods storage space and 700m2 for flammable goods

extremely positive. We have made enormous strides in developing the

of our international technology partners to Africa. Our customers also benefit from excellent global technical support at

consumer specialities business unit,

is also adding to the unit’s portfolio of

any point in formulation development,

adding to our technology partners and

services and technical infrastructure to

from conceptualisation to final product

expanding our capabilities to ensure

add value to its customers and within the

production. We constantly strive to offer

we offer a one-stop shop solution. This is

supply chain.

better and more sustainable solutions in

both from our international technology

‘With our manufacturing capabilities at

every part of our business, from customer

partners and in terms of our local

Chloorkop, companies can partner with

service and product quality to ingredients,

production offering.’

ChemSystems on a contract manufacturing

logistics and technologies,’ she adds. •

The business unit has extensive

basis for their liquids filling and dry powder

formulation expertise to assist customers

blending needs. These solutions are

with new product development and in re-

applicable to household and personal care

formulating existing products. The company

products,’ she adds.

ChemSystems –

More than just a chemical supplier The Protea Chemicals brand has a wealth of experience and a reputation for excellence in distribution of speciality, functional effect chemicals and polymers in sub-Saharan Africa, operating under the OMNIA Chemical Division. Protea is more than just a chemical supplier, touching consumers daily by the value add chemical solutions we offer across all industries. The quality of our products is supported by a strong and reliable network of local and international principals and more importantly by the Protea commitment to safety, health, the environment and quality directives. This enables us to be one of the leading distributors in almost every sector of the market. In Protea Consumer Care, we offer a wide range of commodity and speciality chemicals to the Home, Personal and Health Care sectors, across South Africa, in each of the major hubs with an extended footprint covering sub-Saharan Africa. The Protea Consumer Care range of products includes Petroleum Jelly, White Oils, Natural and Synthetic waxes, Glycerine, Glycols, Oleochemicals, Primary and Secondary Surfactants, Rheology Modifiers, Fragrances, Plant Oils and Butters, Vitamins, Actives, Lanolins and their derivatives, Natural Powders and an extensive range of commodity chemicals in various pack sizes. Speak to us about our custom blend solutions for your business.

Leanne Rossouw: Industry Sector Manager Mobile: + 27 (0)76 683 5615 Tel: +27 11 821 3310 Email: General Enquiries:

Protea.indd 1

2018/03/22 8:29 AM

P C Africa | QUARTER 1 2018 |



A natural approach to beauty While being neat and naturally beautiful are considered confidence boosters for all women, African consumers are inspired by a wider scope of traditional beauty rituals. To help brand owners meet these consumers’ needs, Botanichem pairs certain natural ingredients with the modern beauty demands of African women.


ising affluence in Africa’s middle

Skin lightening is a big trend with many

reduce pigmentation and dark spots and

class is seeing these consumers

aiming for a lighter and/or even skin

become more aware of their

tone. Carolite promotes skin lightening by

health and wellbeing. This is driving

inhibiting the production of melanin in a

South Africa, where the active ingredient

two-fold growth in the beauty industry: firstly,

safe manner. Since it is extracted from the

is produced, have shown Carolite to be

people are investing in products to improve

leaves of the carob tree, it is a naturally

effective as a skin lightener and in treating

their skin and hair care regimes; secondly,

derived ingredient, clinically proven to

age spots and blemishes. The active

consumers are becoming more aware of the ingredients used in these products. Various analyst reports show a clear

The seeds of the Mafura tree are cold pressed to produce Mafura butter

even skin tone. Various in vivo tests conducted in

ingredient is also proven to be non-toxic and safe for use when applied topically. This means Carolite provides an effective

swing towards natural ingredients derived

and safer alternative to hyper-pigmentation

from Africa.

treatments currently on the market which

The carob tree is widely cultivated for its

are either formulated with Kojic acid, a

edible pods. Its leaves are the source of

known skin irritant, or Hydroquinone, an

Carolite, a targeted extract used to address

ingredient thought to be carcinogenic.

blemishes in skin care and for lightening the

Many women dream of having and

skin tone.

maintaining firm and supple skin. Kigafirm,

Crest Chemicals

Hair anyway you like with the right ingredients

Contact us: Johannesburg (011)254 3300, Cape Town (021)534 3140, Durban (031)9025324, East London (043) 726 8713 and Port Elizabeth (041)453 1981 Crest chemicals.indd 1


| QUARTER 1 2018 | P C Africa

2018/03/22 8:25 AM


extracted from the fruit of Kigelia africana,

protective properties, it prevents hair colour

is known for its skin firming properties. This

from fading, helps hair retain moisture and

African active ingredient maximises firming

provides excellent shine.

and anti-inflammatory activity in the skin.

It is important to note that once hair is

In central Africa, Kigelia africana has a

damaged, it is irreversible. Nothing

long history of traditional use based on its

will magically repair the hair, other

breast firming properties. It can also be used

than cutting it and allowing it to

in cosmetics applications for caring for the

regrow. However, there are ingredients and

skin around the eye and décolleté areas. This

products on the market that can prevent

active is suitable for day creams, body lotions

further damage and care for damaged

and creams for the hands and feet. Kigafirm

hair. One example is Trichomega. This active

is stable, safe, naturally derived and ethically

ingredient is extracted from Plukenetia

sourced. In independent efficacy testing,

volubilis, also known as the Sacha Inchi

it has been shown to improve skin firmness

nut. This mountain peanut has a high

and elasticity.

concentration of botanical omegas three,

The targeted skin care active, Carolite, is extracted from the leaves of the carob tree

six and nine, making Trichomega an ideal

hair conditioners and scalp treatments,

ingredient to use in products that care

traditionally it is used as a soap because it

In a market flooded with harsh and

for damaged hair and split ends. While

combines well with olive and coconut oils.

unforgiving products that are formulated

helping to restore hair’s lipid layer to make

with ingredients that break and damage

it more resistant to breakage and split

spreadablity and non-greasy formula, it is

hair and irritate the scalp, finding products

ends, Trichomega also helps hair recover

easily absorbed by all skin types and offers

incorporating naturally derived ingredients

in the weaker and drier hair stages. The

intense moisturising benefits. Traditionally

can be a challenge. Enter Chiaprotect, a

active leaves hair with improved shine and

in hair care, the butter has been used to

natural protection active for treated hair.

flexibility and has been proven to reduce hair

prevent hair breakage and treat scalp

Because hair is sensitive and fragile, it can

breakage and split ends by up to 35 percent.

ailments. In modern hair care formulations,


be easily damaged. Brushing, colouring,

In skin care products, thanks to its good

Mafura butter leaves hair feeling soft and

friction, pollution, relaxing, sun exposure


and other environmental aggressors all have

One of Africa’s best kept beauty secrets,

damaging effects on hair. Chiaprotect is

Mafura butter is great for hair and skin care

Chiaprotect, Trichomega and Mafura Butter

an extra virgin botanical oil that has been

and can be used in pet care products.

are available throughout southern Africa.

extracted from Salvia hispanica seeds. It is a

This natural Grade 1 cold pressed butter

They can be sourced from Botanichem,

100 percent natural, additive and chemical-

is extracted from the seeds of Mafura

a distributor of cosmetics ingredients and

free oil that is cold pressed to preserve its

trees, which grow in southern regions of

formulator of skin and hair products, which

natural properties. Chiaprotect protects

Africa, predominantly Zimbabwe. The

is based in Gauteng, South Africa. •

the hair fibre by creating a film over the

seeds are wild harvested to ensure minimal

hair which prevents protein loss due to UV

environmental impact.

damage. The oil can be used in hair nutrition and repairing treatments. Because of its

While Mafura Butter is used in lip balms, body lotions, face moisturisers,

looking shiny. The ingredients Carolite, Kigafirm,

Botanichem –

Stability Testing Services, a division of Botanichem, offers a well equipped onsite laboratory for independent stability testing for the cosmetic industry. Stability testing is vital to ensure your product maintains its intended physical, chemical & microbiological quality. We offer: • Formulation • Stability Testing • Regulatory Labelling • Product Information Files for Export


P C Africa | QUARTER 1 2018 |


NEWS PHARMA FOCUS//Tabletting & Encapsulation

Reduce wastage and improve productivity

with multi-tips

With the combination of correctly designed tablets and multi-tip tooling produced using the correct raw material and coatings, the use of multi-tips is an obvious answer to greater productivity in solid dose manufacturing. Laurence Mead, I Holland’s customer support group engineer, explains why.


fficiency in solid dose

and require more time under

manufacturing can be

compression to guarantee they

improved at the earliest

come off the press without any

stages of tablet design,

faults. Some granules are extremely

by utilising precise tooling

difficult to compress effectively and

specifications. The design and

require extended time under peak

material selection can have a big

compression to obtain the required

impact on the final product.

tablet hardness.

Tablet tooling manufacturers

Sticking, pitting, corrosion or wear are issues you might encounter in tablet production

to achieve an increase in dwell

selection to allow for optimal

can eradicate these issues, but

productivity for the tablet tooling in

this leads to a reduction in the

the press. This is done by obtaining

production rate. With the help of a

clear and basic information on the

tablet tooling expert with innovative

product. Firstly, look at the product’s

tooling solutions, it is possible to

formulation as this can influence

increase the dwell time without

tablet design, tool material selection

slowing the speed of the press.

and coating. formulations can cause adverse


effects on the punch tips, causing

The correct tablet shape and profile

abrasion, pitting or corrosion.

is key to finding a successful tooling

Although tools are manufactured

specification. The choice of shape

from hardened and tempered

and profile is critical as different

tool steel, demanding tabletting

tablet shapes and profiles can

processes can lead to their

present various challenges. There

deterioration if the tool material is

are two basic tablet shapes, round

not optimised to suit the formulation

and non-round. The complexity

being compressed.

of non-round shapes is varied,

Under compression, some

Multi-tip tooling

DWELL TIME This important factor needs to be considered when initiating Tabletting tools with complex designer shapes

‘Sticking’ is when the adhesion to tablet tooling surfaces overcomes the cohesive forces of the granule.

‘Sticking’ is not to be confused with ‘Picking’ as this is influenced by tablet design alone. The difference between sticking and picking


| QUARTER 1 2018 | P C Africa

Slowing down the tablet press

can optimise design and material

and many complex designs may require a specialised tool manufacturing capability. The required type of tablet profile

good tooling set-up. Many tablet

is influenced by several factors: the

formulations are dwell-sensitive

granule; embossing requirements;

PHARMA FOCUS//Tabletting & Encapsulation NEWS

coating process; packaging and the

intensive, reduces yields and increases

to twinning, which is when tablets stick

pharma company’s branding. If the design

production costs.

together. This is normally caused by the flat

is to be heavily embossed with a lot of

With picking, compressed granules

surfaces of tablets coming into contact and

characters, it is important to avoid tablet

adhere to the detail on the punch face,

adhering. To avoid this, a slightly curved

profiles with a deep cup as they can cause

resulting in the picking out of parts from

surface can be applied, which reduces

a softer core, which can lead to sticking.

the tablet face. To reduce picking

It will also reduce the space available for

the best practice is to design

embossing. Using a shallower profile with

font styles that have large

a reduced cup depth will allow for a larger

open counters and no

embossing area.

sharp corners, which


could act as a trap for granules. Selection

The type of font and logo are crucial to a

of the right font style

tablet’s visual appearance. Typefaces and

can also help to avoid

designs must take into account practicality

coating problems,

of tablet manufacture. Tablet designers

tooling failures and lack

also need to consider how the identification

of distinction.

will scale up and down according to the size of the tablets being produced. Correct font style is needed to avoid


the contact area and eliminates


the problem. To define the best shape and profile for

With counterfeiters becoming the coating process, more technologically advanced, effective tooling basic tablet designs are easily specification needs re-produced. If counterfeiting is a threat to your product and brand, to be implemented. your marketing or R&D departments Problems like twinning must work in partnership with a will have a major effect specialist tablet design team to incorporate anti-counterfeit on tablet waste, yet measures in the design they can be avoided with from the outset. the expert knowledge of the

Successful coating is dependent on the

tooling supplier.

sticking and picking. Sticking occurs

tablet cup profile and its ability to roll to

when tablet formulation particles adhere

ensure even coverage. Applying a double


to the punch face. It has a negative

radius profile would help if the product is

Tablet tooling has to combine intricate

effect on the tablet’s appearance, can

to be coated as it allows the tablet to roll

design and functional requirements

interrupt production and, in extreme

better in the coating pan. If a flat bevel

to ensure maximum productivity and

cases, punches may have to be removed

profile is applied, the tablet would not

durability in manufacturing. To follow

to be cleaned. This is disruptive, labour

roll but rather skid in the pan, leading

this important process, tool coatings are

P C Africa | QUARTER 1 2018 |


PHARMA FOCUS//Tabletting & Encapsulation

commonly used to offer a solution to tablet punch and die wear and solve sticking issues. Remember, punches and dies are the most critical interface with the tablet so using the correct material and coating is important.


In pharmaceutical manufacturing, efficiency and accuracy in managing

production to run efficiently. There

and monitoring tooling is paramount.

are innovative systems on the market

Without a system that controls the

which can incorporate this whilst

procedure effectively, there can be

including in-depth guides to tooling

adverse effects on the bottom line.

specification and troubleshooting, so

Installing a system that allows tablet

•a reduction in run-time per output of tablets, leading to less maintenance per batch • r educed press set-up time for the quantity of tablets produced.

problems are flagged and rectified

There should be no requirement to

manufacturers to keep a record of

fast, resulting in increased productivity

purchase a new tablet press to increase

the tablets being produced, from the

and saving both time and money.

production when a multi-tip solution is

quantity to batch information, will allow




Stress and fatigue analysis of a punch tip should be considered by using finite

adopted, so there is no capital outlay on new tablet presses and less presses are required to satisfy production levels.

element analysis (FEA) to identify areas of


high stress concentration which can lead

Effective tooling specification is imperative

to breakage.

to improving tablet production efficiency.

An expert tooling designer can add

Consult an expert tablet designer early on

appropriate strengthening features such

to find the correct design for the product


as blended lands and profile changes

being produced. The design should not

all the information and elements supplied

while ensuring embossing detail is not in

only be unique and visually appealing, but

to them and draft a detailed drawing of the

direct proximity to the high stress areas.

also robust and producible in a rigorous

tablet to be manufactured. All the information

Blended land is one of the most

tablet manufacturing environment.

on the drawing is critical to ensuring high

important features of any tablet design.

Working closely with a tablet tooling

manufacturing standards.

Often, tablet manufacturers choose not

expert will help address specific product

Tool drawings should include specifications,

to apply a land as it may not be visually

challenges and prevent non-conforming

tolerances, clearance and instructions, which

acceptable on the finished tablet. Lands

products. By sharing company information

the manufacturing team use to create a

that are applied incorrectly, either

and data on the product being produced,

precision engineered finished product.

unevenly or too big, present issues

the tooling manufacturer can piece

including, flashing or lamination during

your puzzle together by introducing a

details, such as critical parts of the tooling,

compression, chipping of the land

QbD concept. This also helps the tooling

like headforms and key positions, should be

during take-off or, build-up of coating


investigated. Providing your tooling supplier

on the edge of the tablet which will

offer the best

with the correct information early on will help

eventually chip.

possible advice

Once the initial drawing is made further

identify the right specifications for your brand of tablets.

When a blended land is applied

to eliminate

correctly, it will optimise tablet and


tooling strength and performance. It also

problems, resulting

provides benefits to handling, loading,

in a reduced

setting, tooling strength, the visual

time to market

appearance of the tablet and ultimately,

and improved

your brand.

costings. •

MULTI-TIP TOOLING Because productivity and volume are key requirements in manufacturing,


investigating ways to improve output

Laurence Mead is the customer support group engineer at I Holland. He joined the company 10 years ago as an apprentice mechanical engineer and trained in every area of the punch and die manufacturing process, before specialising in tablet and tool design.

is essential. This can be considered once the desired design and tooling information are determined. The most effective way to fulfil this requirement is through multi-tip tooling which offers the following benefits: •g reater productivity, owing to the increased number of tablets per turret rotation,


| QUARTER 1 2018 | P C Africa

I Holland –


Metalic lips and eyes Each year brings with it new makeup must-haves. Metallic lipsticks are hot and true statement-making products, while metallic eyeshadows bring a new electric element to colour cosmetics. Kobo Products discusses how to achieve these super pigmented formulations.


etallic lipsticks

an iridescent illumination that will

and eyeshadows

emphasise the shape and depth of

require super intense

the eyes.

formulations that

Kobo Products offers a range

shimmer and shine with depth.

of pearlescent pigments and

While the strobing trend has

easy-to-use pigmentary

created a desire for glowing skin,

dispersions to support

metallics provide a stunning

chemists formulating

reflection and hue to add to this

metallic lip and eye

trend. When creating a look,

products. These products

metallic and neutral shades

are available in throughout

should be paired on lips and eyes

southern Africa from

because they are complementary.

Cosmetic Ingredients.

Metallic lipsticks are bold,

silver shimmer to give a more


pronounced effect. They can

KTZ pearlescent pigments are

help create the illusion of

special effect pigments based on

bigger, fuller lips due to the

a natural mica substrate coated

light-reflecting pigments and

with titanium dioxide and/or

are designed to shade, define

iron oxide to create pearlescent

and highlight the lips. Layering

effects, interference colours and

dimension, sensual sheen and

metallic lipsticks on top of regular

angle-related colour travel. They

captivating sparkle.

matte lipsticks creates extra

offer great versatility in a

dimension and expands the

broad range of cosmetics

matte lipstick trend.

applications to impart

vibrant and create dimension. They have a base of gold or

Metallic eyeshadows give a foil

colour and visual

finish, and contour and contrast

effects. These pigments

with mascaras and eyeliners.

are available in a

They are available as powders

variety of invigorating

or creams and the shades range

hues and particle

from a soft shimmer to a glittery

size distributions.

pearlescent sheen, which can be

KTZ pearlescent

worn during the day or at night.

pigments can enhance

Metallic eyeshadows also provide

effects such as depth,


PT1BM Dispersions offer high concentrations of colour that contribute a glossy effect

with good spreadability Metallic lipsticks look good on Instagram. Romero Jennings, and a silky feel to director of makeup artistry at M.A.C finished formulas. says, ‘The matte lip trend has been These phenyl silicone hot for so long, but metallic-toned lips are the new way to create fluid dispersions offer a instant celebrity. Most importantly, unique sensory profile in it’s a trend that photographs comparison to dispersions incredibly well and looks great on everyone’. Source: in cyclopentasiloxane to achieve desirable and

comparable formulation results. The opportunity to formulate using this optimised phenyl fluid allows chemists to further utilise optical reflective properties with higher volatility to reach new limits. •

Cosmetic Ingredients – Kobo Products –

P C Africa | QUARTER 1 2018 |



Create colours

for your colour It’s easy to develop the right makeup for dark skins with Merck’s annual colour forecasts. In its autumn/winter Arty Spirit colour forecast, the company presents extreme looks and exciting styles that can be translated into stunning makeup products for the African market. materials at Merck South Africa. ‘Merck has created better effects


makeup brands are incredibly

popular in Africa, but they are also pricey, and shades are limited. Analyst reports show that emerging economies like Africa

alternative, urban and everyday

with, for example, reds with depth

looks provide a magic toolbox with

and pigments with multidimensional

many basic twists. For example, a

effects,’ she says. ‘We also help

golden eye shadow and generous

our customers with new ideas by

radiant red for lips work well for

presenting traditional products waxes, vinyl and stains to

facial features, Merck’s Street Icon

brands, from a quality, reliability and efficacy perspective. African fashion and beauty bloggers like Sharon Mundia (www. and Winnie Awuor

all the time. Their content ranges from lipsticks for nude to rosy lips, bright eye shadows and the perfect mascara, bold makeup and tutorials

brown and flamboyant reds. It also features a catching purple shade, the elegant golden tone of liquor and palace orange, which is perfect to sublimate dark skins for a VIP look.

celebrity makeup artist, says strobing

developing colour cosmetics for

can be just as effective on darker skin

African consumers.

tones as it is on lighter skin, but you

Pearlescent Pigment


unique elements presented by Merck and make them your own, in

| QUARTER 1 2018 | P C Africa

time colours that hinge on an iconic

Porsche Copper, African American


colour forecasts is to bring in the

Karen Maier, head of performance

colour range is composed of night

suitable inspirational platforms when


Merck, a global science and

line with your brand story,’ explains

The Funky Star Crazy Dandy is ideal for very dark African skin tones. This



technology company, inspires cosmetics. ‘The intention of our

day time.

need to use the correct shade for your skin tone.

Table 1: Strobing stick with pearlescent pigments

like how to achieve an ombre lip.

brands to develop new colour

terracotta accents soften the look for

Crazy Dandy themes are the most

charaterised by mustard yellow,

review international makeup brands

an evening look while ginger and

Happy Everyday and Funky Star

Street Icon Happy Everyday is

(www.winniethemakeupartist. com)


in innovative ways, such as lip

The African makeup market colour or finish the lips in has grown exponentially in the fresh and fun ways.’ past three years. The growing middle class in Kenya, with extra The Arty Spirit colour income to spend on luxury items forecast consists of four like makeup, social media and the themes broken down selfie culture with about 39 million Kenyans on the internet, are into certain looks and ultimately driving the makeup styles. Because bold and category’s growth. bright colours work well on Source: Quartz Africa darker skin tones and accent

have high levels of trust in global

supreme golden shades. It’s smart,

and more options for customers



waxy ginger, natural artificial red and



% 5.00

Oxynex K liquid

Peg-8, Tocopherol, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Ascorbic Acid, Citric Acid


Sensiva PA 20

Phenethyl Alcohol, Ethylhexyl Glycerin


Paraffin viscous

Paraffinum Liquidum


Adeps Lanae



Paracera C 44

Copernicia Cerifera Cera, Ceresin


Isopropyl Myristate

Isopropyl Myristate


Wax white

Cera Alba


Castor Oil

Ricinus Communis Seed Oil


Fragrance Pearl FEMA




For African skins, Merck’s strobing

as powders, sticks, poured pasty

stick with pearlescent pigments (see

products, creams and fluids. The

Table 1) should be formulated with

common feature of shiny illumination

pigments with golden interference

and radiance products is the content

like Merck’s Timiron Silk, Super

of reflective pigments, responsible

or SynBeam Gold or Ronastar

for the lustrous effect. Often the

Golden Lights.

base is white or pastel coloured

Xenia Petsitis, Merck’s technical

and contains silver, golden or rose

service manager for decorative

shimmer pigments. These products

cosmetics, also discusses the ins and

are applied gently on top of the

out of this new makeup trend in an

foundation, to produce a healthy

article entitled What are illumination,

glow in a way that makes the

radiance and strobing? (originally

complexion look attractive, but never

published in Euro Cosmetics).

oily or glossy.

‘Strobing is not only a descriptive

It’ll be exciting to see what new

claim,’ she writes, ‘it is also a makeup

colour cosmetics are launched

technique and could be considered

in Africa in the coming months,

the successor of the contouring

particularly the strobing and

trend. Strobing works only with some

illuminating products. ‘This trend is

highlighting effects. Formulas with

such a positive one – instead of hiding

a light, silvery (or golden), more or

flaws it highlights perfections. There

less sparkling effect are applied on

are also many claims surrounding

protruding parts of the face, like

strobing, which can be interpreted in

cheeks, brow bones, nose, chin, or

various ways,’ Maier concludes. •

the centre of the forehead.’ Petsitis explains that different formula bases and modes of application are possible, offered

Merck Performance Materials –


EMBRACE P C Africa | QUARTER 1 2018 |



Mondi prioritises climate

change mitigation

The global packaging and paper group has adopted its 2050 science-based targets to limit the rise in global temperature to under two degrees Celsius.


ondi Group has joined the

across its entire value chain

ranks of global climate

and to positively influence the

leaders by signing up to

packaging and paper industry

Climate Savers, the World

as well as its policy makers.

Wide Fund for Nature’s (WWF) climate The packaging and paper group has


commited to reduce its specific production-

Members of Climate Savers aim

related greenhouse gas (GHG) emissions to

to transform businesses into low-

0.25t CO2 per tonne produced by 2050. This

carbon economy leaders.

leadership programme for businesses.

commitment and others made as part of its participation in the flagship programme are in line with the climate science targets required to limit global temperature rise to under two degrees Celsius. The group’s participation in Climate Savers is an extension

Peter Oswald, CEO of


The Mondi Group employs around 25 400 people in over 100 operations across more than 30 countries worldwide.

Mondi Group, says:


‘As a global player in the packaging and paper industry, we are part of an energy intensive sector. Since 2004, we’ve managed to reduce our specific CO2 emissions by 38 percent by

of a strategic global partnership

focusing on operational and

between Mondi and WWF which

energy efficiencies. We joined the WWF

started in 2014. The partnership focuses

Climate Savers programme to reinforce

on promoting environmental stewardship

our long-standing commitment to climate

in the packaging and paper industry. In

change mitigation and to demonstrate to

joining Climate Savers, Mondi commits to

the rest of our industry that using energy

working to further reduce GHG emissions

efficiently is not only necessary for the environment, but also good for business.

Mondi Kraft in Richards Bay, South Africa, produces two key products: Baycel, a premier grade bleached hardwood pulp made from 100-percent eucalyptus fibre; and Baywhite, a white top kraft linerboard

We are proud to confirm our commitment to the science-based target needed Uncoated fine paper products are produced at Mondi’s Hausmening plant in Austria

Peter Oswald

to keep global warming well below two degrees Celsius for our productionrelated emissions.’ Manuel PulgarVidal, leader of WWF’s global Climate &

Energy Practice, adds: ‘Climate change is one of the biggest threats to our future, with fundamental impacts on places, species and people everywhere. To change things for the better, we need to start acting now. We welcome Mondi’s efforts toward helping build a more sustainable business world and are happy to have the group join the Climate Savers programme.’

AMBITIOUS TARGETS To achieve its climate goals, Mondi has developed an ambitious programme to improve energy efficiency, replace fossil fuels with renewable energy, manage its forests and associated ecosystems sustainably and source raw materials responsibly. Mondi is also active in developing packaging and paper products that help its customers and consumers reduce their own carbon footprints. Mondi’s Climate Savers agreement will run at least until the end of 2020, concurrent with phase two of its global partnership with WWF. •

Mondi Group –


| QUARTER 1 2018 | P C Africa

Are you ready for


Industry 4.0? The fourth industrial revolution is here. Broadly titled Industry 4.0, it’s set to have a strong impact on African manufacturers. Omron South Africa reveals why.


competitive position. Against this background, Germany must learn to cope with intense global demographic change in society and the world of work. The change to a digital society will take


igital transformation and associated technologies such as big data, cloud services and collaborating

robots in particular are generating enormous interest. Considerations of risks and opportunities for the workplace and society at large have

place over the next 20 to 35 years. The course of growing demand for skills and training, the

transformation from analogue to digital infrastructure Of 1 600 C-level executives surveyed by Deloitte, 87 and the adaption of fully integrated commercial percent overwhelmingly ecosystems will not run smoothly. Looking at believe Industry 4.0 will lead the impact of Industry 4.0, it seems multiple to more equality and stability, and three-quarters say business polarisation lies ahead in which, depending on the will have much more influence combination, individuals, regions and industries than governments and other entities in shaping this will see advantages but also risks that cannot be future. Source: www2. directly influenced. •

been rudimentary and fragmented. ‘Technology is developing at a fast pace. African businesses

Omron –

cannot afford to get left behind,’ says Victor Marques, country manager at Omron South Africa.


Achieve flexible production with integrated robotics solutions

CHANGING WORKING CONDITIONS To remain globally competitive, manufacturers need to find ways to adapt, using the technologies driving the Fourth Industrial Revolution, while maintaining and creating jobs in an environment of high unemployment. Industry 4.0 will influence the conditions of and requirements for employees in many areas. A new scenario is emerging driven by the application of machine-to-machine communication and an increase in the realisation of autonomous systems. As a result, the demand for qualified Delta Parallel robot Quattro and Hornet

production controllers and managers has increased, reducing the demands placed on workers. How the increase in productivity is divided among workers depends crucially on social partners. The impact on the general situation of workers and unskilled labour can be positive. On the other hand, their skilled counterparts will have to come to terms with growing pressure on performance and skills.

CHANGES WITHIN A DIGITAL SOCIETY Daily digitisation brings vast improvements. Increased efficiency, improvements in productivity and new services will change our society, consumer behaviour and corporate

Articulated robot Viper

SCARA robot eCobra

Mobile robot LD Series

The new Omron Robotic Automation enhances the most demanding manufacturing lines. Realize faster line start-up & change-over, implement easier to use technology & vertical line integration, and facilitate faster data capture & analysis to increase your in-line efficiency. Our industrial robotics range from articulated, SCARA, and DELTA to collaborative (mobile) robots that optimize the handling of varying lot sizes and diverse products, formats and qualities. Achieve flexible production with integrated robotics solutions that give you a competitive edge! Discover how to improve your flexible production, contact us: +27 (0)11 579 2600

landscape. This transformation will mean that countries that promote digitisation will be able to defend and build on their

robot_88,5x130_food_manufacturing_africa_ad_enza_01.indd 1 | P C Africa

QUARTER 1 2018 |20-07-17 29 12:55


Safety and simplicity for pharmaceuticals

The number of blockbuster drugs developed have decreased over the past few years, while the production of biopharmaceuticals and other small batch drugs have increased. This has put pressure on pharmaceutical and biotech companies to find flexible ways to fill small batches and different containers for different markets. Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review Africa explores what is on the market to address this need.


he international technology

conditions and demand, while ensuring

group, Schott is simplifying drug

patient safety with high quality RTU

development and manufacturing

containers. This solution significantly

with its iQ platform. Described

reduces the time and effort

as a holistic concept, this innovation

needed to qualify and

standardises ready-to-use (RTU) syringes,

validate packaging

vials and cartridges within a single tub

containers on a filling

format to run on the same filling line. The

line. Implementation of

result is reduced changeover times.

RTU containers is easy

iQ relies on the proven nest-and-tub

and swift compared to

format, which has been used for decades

bulk solutions. Versatile

by the pharmaceutical industry to fill

sizes of vials, syringes

syringes. It is compatible with a diverse

and cartridges all come

array of filling line models from different

in the same tub. The tubs

manufacturers. It was developed to help

are standardised according

pharmaceutical companies retain flexibility

ISO 11040-7.

in response to rapidly changing market

domestic drug manufacturing. Africa


One single tub fitting for any nest when switching between containers.

that reduce the total cost of ownership of drug manufacturing while improving quality and safety for patients. At times, these points can appear conflicting or unattainable with one suffering because of the

other,’ he adds. Bizzell says the platform paves a clear path for injectable drug manufacturing to reach its ideals on this continent.

This means various drugs can be filled in


different containers on one line with little

The platform’s concept covers syriQ

changeover time in between.

prefillable syringes and adaptiQ

According to Schott, creating a

ready-to-use vials, with the cartriQ

standardised nest-and-tub format for

ready-to-use cartridges scheduled

pharmaceutical manufacturing is much

to be made available this year. A

like the standardised containers used to

versatile portfolio of container formats

ship freight. By having a uniform size and

and options are available for any

shape, there’s no need to use different

pharmaceutical application.

ships for different containers, no need for

The company has committed to helping

specialised cranes, different vehicles or rail

manufacturers change from batch to

cars for transporting the containers to their

batch, vials to syringes or even cartridges.

final destination. Having a standard makes

Schott has developed the iQ platform in

the whole process more efficient. The same

collaboration with the world’s largest filling

is true on drug filling lines.

line suppliers to standardise packaging

BENEFITS FOR AFRICA Mason Bizzell, MD at Starrate, says the company examined how this innovation would enhance general healthcare on the continent.

FROM TOP TO BOTTOM: The SyriQ prefillable syringes, cartriQ ready-to-use cartridges and adaptiQ ready-to-use vials and

| QUARTER 1 2018 | P C Africa

is in desperate need of solutions

Starrate is the exclusive agent and distributor for Schott in sub-Saharan Africa. The company is situated in KwaZulu-Natal and supplies pharmaceutical packaging and biological media throughout Africa.

results in less changing of machine parts


‘iQ excites us because it opens the door for increased, improved and safer

dimensions and simplify the entire filling process. In addition, the company continues to work with the world’s largest elastomer component suppliers to ensure the offering of pre-validated and flexible container systems. •

Schott – Starrate –

Pharmaceutical Packaging and Biological Solutions for Africa

Pharmaceutical Packaging & Biological Products

Starrate is a leading supplier of pharmaceutical packaging and biological media in Africa. Representing global industry leaders and technology groups, Schott Kaisha, West Pharmaceutical Services, Bormioli Rocco, CellSera Australia and Brilliant Biopharma. Starrate’s core focus: • • • • •

Packaging systems and components for Injectable medicines Containers for solid and liquid orally ingested medicines Serum and specialized animal based media Bulk Antigens Strategic Veterinary Vaccines

Supplying and servicing a customer base in over 20 African countries. Majority market share in injectable primary packaging. In business for over 25 years.

Distributors for

cellsera !

+27 (0)31 312 0108 | |

Your global partner for premium quality products

Pharma For the pharmaceutical industry we produce active ingredients and excipients for oral and injection applications (e. g. for infusion and dialysis solutions, oral rehydration salts, tablets or capsules and many more). Biotechnology Cosmetics We supply raw materials and mixtures for the biotechnological production of enzymes and for the production of monoclonal antibodies and different recombinant products.

Kirsch Pharma South Africa (PTY Ltd.) Tel: +27 (011)-392-5171/2 Fax : +27 (011) 392-5130 Email: Website:

Nutrition In the field of special nutrition we offer ingredients and raw materials for the production of infant nutrition, nutraceuticals and dietary foods. Cosmetics We supply active ingredients, excipients and raw materials, among others for the production of ointments and creams for dermatological and dental applications. Veterinary On behalf of the veterinary industry we produce active ingredients, excipients and special feed additives for oral and injection applications.