The Wahine storm of 1968 decimated the black swan population which once numbered in the hundreds of thousands. Since the storm ripped out the weed beds which were their main source of food, the population never fully recovered. Ellesmere is well renowned in the bird watching fraternity, with 160 species having been recorded. Up to 98,000 wetland birds use the lake at any one time. Its prolific bird life earned the lake a National Water Conservation Order in 1990. Before turning to the West and Fisherman’s Point I pull my redundant spray skirt off the cowling, but soon put it back on as the unfamiliar sight of my open cockpit is somehow unsettling. At the end of Kaitorete Spit is an artificial cut which can be opened when the lake level gets too high. On the other side is the wide Pacific Ocean. I have a quick look, before turning north to follow the shore round. I paddle between two small islands at Timber Yard Point then find a tiny area of grass to get out and stretch my legs. After lunch I’m back into it, attempting to find the rhythm I had earlier. Maybe its middle age but that ‘in the zone’ feeling refuses to come. Not to worry. All there is to do is paddle. I parallel the western shore and notice the odd bach. For a lake this size on a sunny windless weekend, it seems amazingly under utilized and empty. The water skier has disappeared and it seems the birds and I have the place to ourselves. The day wears on. Some serious paddling and another coffee break later I approach the northern shore again and soon spot the mouth of the Selwyn. Back on the boat ramp, heaving myself out of the kayak I realise that I am completely dry. Another first! Back in the truck with everything packed and stowed, I Iook at my watch to discover that five hours have gone by and realise why I feel so tired. I’ll leave the Eastern end of the lake for another trip! I’d heard people describe Te Waihoru as “dead” or “dying” and while it would be unrealistic to think it could be restored to its former glory, the Department of Conservation, Environment Canterbury, and Ngai Tahu are determined to protect the lake and its surroundings from further degradation. The quality of the water flowing into the lake is gradually improving, thanks to ECan’s, Living Rivers progammes. DOC is in the process of purchasing properties around the lake edge, while along the eastern edge, the Rail Trail is slowly being developed. This will hopefully be enjoyed by trampers and cyclists in the future.
Duck Hide
ISSUE THIRTYsix • 2006
41