Disintegration collage, graphite on mylar 12 x 18 in 2012
FASHION AND ARCHITECTURE The parallels between Fashion and
the Fashion Designer are concerned
Architects share a common language
Architecture present an opportunity
primarily by the human body and ideas
and techniques of construction. The
for a unique collaborative experience
of volume, movement, and form. Both
intersection of structural concepts
function as shelter; an interface between
have provided inspiration for both
disciplines have become increasingly
body, environment, and experience.
disciplines, and as architectural forms
Furthermore, Fashion Designers and
become increasingly expressive in
Both the Architect and
todays zeitgeist, fashion is a tool for the architect that is more useful than ever. It is these points of intersection that the building presented in this project not only strives to express, but works to transform, recontextualize and re-frame to further explore this relationship.
designer Erin Goodman, right: design flats, electroformed copper helmet, research collage
2012 COLLECTION Erin’s senior collection finds a unique beauty in the grotesque. the disease Cancer,
shows a relationship of disease and body through color and embellishment. The distinctive sheer fabric strips that optically mix when layered are patterned to create small tumor and cist-like shapes. Their placement is derived from the way cancer spreads and ultimately accumulates.
The helmets worn with
each garment are made of electroformed copper and bring to mind the sideeffects of chemotherapy treatment.
a whole, the collection tells a narrative of how one may choose to “wear” their cancer and how it consumes the body.
â€œThis work explores beauty and the perception of beauty. Through it, I intend to rouse the paradoxical view that beauty can represent a phenomenon, Cancer, which is invariably perceived as a vile killer. Yes, Cancer takes many people from this Earth, but the paradox is that it is a killer that rises up from our own bodies and sometimes kills but it sometimes spares. Cancer is a natural process of life that many humans experience. Is there something to be said about the beauty of something so natural? Cancer begins from the over replication of our very own cells. The cells metastasize and spread throughout the body. The clump of cells turns into a small cist, it then evolves into a tumor until the cancer slowly consumes the body. It is odd to think of cancer as a part of us just as our skin, or our limbs are a part of our body. Cancer is not a foreign assassin; it is part of each person that has developed it inside of their body.â€?
â€œjust as fashion is an with the human body, architecture is an interface with the human experienceâ€?
collection lineup by Erin Goodman
2012 collection by Erin Goodman
initial sketches, process models
structure that begins to deteriorate
sofa is the point of departure of
from within. In building the object at
full scale, problems of construction and
to an architectural language.
construction process, schematic diagram
method were confronted and solved.
explores concepts of cells, mutation
Ultimately, the sofa had to successfully
and division, as well as a rational grid
A massive truss system that contains smaller
describes a regulating order imposed upon
Xochimilco (CIEAX) (Water Research and Educational Center) Mexico City, Mexico. 2007 Ten Architectos
that of a lesser hierarchy.
similar disharmony between inner and outer volumes, but utilizes an
form. DZ Bank Berlin, Germany Frank Gerhy
Vakko Fashion Center Istanbul, Turkey. 2010 REX Architects
The Vakko Fashion center is an example of program and structural innovation for a leading fashion house in Turkey.
rational language of the building is turned into a dynamic experience by the seemingly haphazard insertion of volumes into a central core. The box trusses in the center are structurally independent from the repurposed concrete outer shell.
Prada Bevery Hills, California OMA
In this innovative luxury retail store, the traditional storefront of entrance and windows on the ground floor is subverted. By lifting up the building, the public is invited into the open space below and drawn into the store.
belt trusses is an example of structural innovation. By combining typologies,
enable a free interior that allows for
and a new degree of adaptability.
Wyly Theatre Dallas, Texas. 2009 REX
The glass entry facade is
an example of form-active cable structure. This non-rigid suspension system can support itself and span space.
The cables form a system
that transfer loads through pure tensile stresses.
The glass roof is
stilted upon the suspension cables. The 27 steel cables each hold up to 500,000 pounds of force.
Kauffman Center for the Performing Arts Kansas City, MO Moshe Safdie
Nykredit Headquarters Copenhagen, Denmark Schmidt Hammer Lassen Architects
The structural method of suspension creates a visual and pshycological tension. The volumes are projected into open space thus activating the interior atrium.
New York State
corner of Spring and Greene
view north on Green Street
view east on Spring Street
view south on Green Street
view west on Spring Street
HISTORY OF SOHO
In the 1600s SoHo and all of
small businesses and firms, import/export
Manhattan was covered with grassy
houses, and inexpensive clothing outlets.
cast-iron architecture, and
hills, streams, meadows, forests , and
It was not until the 1950s as population
greatest collection of cast iron structures in
After 1775, when Broadway
centers shifted uptown and industry and
the world. Mostly constructed during the
St. was extended north of Canal St., the
commerce followed that the population
1840’s-80’s, this architectural innovation
area called “The Valley” began to see
was replaced by a new breed of bohemian
was though to be better than steel. It’s
settlement. The early 1800’s was a period
settlers. During this period of decline,
strength allowed for larger windows
of rapid residential expansion, initially by
SoHo was deemed an industrial wasteland
and more natural light, however, its
the wealthy. In time, the development
susceptibility to melting led to failures with
attracted new businesses and many
During the artistic heydays of SoHo
fire and creation of new building codes.
hotels, theatres, elegant shops, mansions,
in the 1960’s and 70’s, the district became
casinos, and brothels sprung up. It was
a center of creativity.
Many of the old
trendy shopping, progressive art, and
an elegant period in SoHo’s history.
warehouses were converted into studios
fashion. Its name and is shorthand for “South
and lofts for living spaces.
of Houston.” Its people are famous, rich,
life began to pick up with the industrial
inspired, artistic people with an imaginative
and trendy. Because of this, SoHo remains
Textiles were a major
zest for living and need for low rents
a creative heart and soul of New York City.
commodity of SoHo, along with other
gave SoHo a decidedly bohemian spirit.
After the Civil War, the pace of
SoHo is noted particularly for its boasts the
Today, SoHo is synonymous with
SoHo site analysis
commercial/multi-family industrial/manufacturing multi-family mercantile
building site analysis
Located at the corner of Spring and Greene approved for mercantile, assembly, or
The building must be fully accessible
Streets, the parcel falls within the M1-5A residential use. Parking and loading are not
and have 2 means of egress. Minimum
zoning district. This designates the area
required by code, but provision of 1 bicycle
corridor/ stair width is 36â€? Height and
as a Low Density Manufacturing Zone,
space per 10,000 square feet is required.
area are limited by construction type.
1. French Connection 2. Lacoste 3. Stuart Moore Ltd 4. Patagonia 5. Varda Shoes 6. Sunglass Hut 7. OKSA New York 8. John Dellaria Salon 9. The North Face 10. Marnette New York 11. Barneys New York 12. Chanel Boutique 13. Manhattan Bistro 14. A Bathing Ape 15. Armani Casa 16. Louis Vuitton 17. Fabelliâ€™s Cafe 18. Agent Provocateur 19. Design Within Reach 20. Yvone Christa NY 21. American Apparel 22. Anthropologie 23. Vosges Chocolate 24. Longchamp Soho 25. Mimi Fertz Inc 26. Mak Art 27. Go Art Gallery 28. Cafe Cafe 29. John Varvatos 30. Seize Sur Vingt 31. Bar 89 32. Jack Spade 33. Kate Spade
surrounding luxury stores
1 per 10,000 square feet 2,000 sq. ft.
Building height is restricted to 85’
1 if a “public plaza” is provided
with a Footprint Area Ratio (FAR) of
square footage of 25,000 square feet. An exception is granted provided the
building dedicates 2,000 square feet of the site to public use, increasing the total allowable square footage to a maximum of 30,000 square feet. Additionally, the building may not penetrate the sky exposure plane without approval of
per 25’ of street front facade
0 not required by code
the Landmark Preservation Committee (LPC). A tower is allowed if covering less than 51% of a site 20,000 sq feet or under, and must be set back 15’ on a narrow street (>75’ wide) and 10’ on a wide street (>75’ wide).
provisions by code
green street, building rhythm and heights
spring street, building rhythm and heights
DEMOGRAPHICS OF SOHO 60 and over
19 and under
HS No diploma 0
$40k-$49999 $30k - $39999
Some College High School Grad
Bachelor's Degree Series1
$20k-$29999 $10k-$19999 >$10k 0
education (25 and older)
(dis-: indicating reversal, removal, or release; integrate: to
combine, unite, incorporate into a whole)
to reduce to fragments,
separate into parts, to lose intactness or solidness,
Arising at a period of shift from
The question became how to present
This meant that to re-engage the
the grotesque notion of disease in
the technological world of online
an objective and beautiful manner.
store must be subverted; and the
shopping, this project is an effort to
revive the authenticity, storytelling,
suggests in his essay En Terror
uncertain, the unphysical, and the
and innovation needed to create
unnatural, all within a framework
a true emotional connection to
a luxury fashion store located in
“Architecture must displace the
the SoHo district of New York City.
former ways of conceptualizing
itself,” and “requires a more complex
architecture that disintegrates the
Created for Fashion Designer Erin
form of the beautiful, one which
program and structure of the building
Goodman, the store is designed with
contains he ugly, or a rationality
much like cancer does to the human
the concept of disease and cancer
body. The language of the building
present in her Spring 2012 collection.
relates to deconstructivist ideas of
“trace,” “twoness,” “betweeness,” and
a grid structure that envelopes and creates an internal void.
create a sublime experience for
the instance of their intersection,
the user. The retail store is in the
the structure of the outer body is
literal and metaphysical center of
compromised and replaced by that
the building, and the user ascends
of the disease. In this way, the two
past the studio workspace to bear
systems are successfully integrated
witness to the act of making as
and reliant on one another for
they proceed up through the public
structural wholeness. The disease
infiltrates from within and demands
These are part of the
active program that demanded to be separated volumes suspended haphazardly in the internal atrium. The subservient programs lay in
conceptual model no. 1: cherry, plexiglass, shrinkwrap
conceptual model no. 2: cherry, plexiglass, string
massing model, right: plans and section cuts from Rhino
Room of Disease Collage Rendering 18 x 24 in 2012
site model photo, left: site plan
Interior Perspective drawing 11 x 17 in 2012
exploded axonometric of structure
intersection of structure
Erin Goodman Fashion House watercolor 11 x 17 in 2012
3D Max renderings, Spring street elevation
Greene street elevation
Skin and Bones Model cherry, poplar, walnut, purple heart, cedar, plexiglass 12 x 6 in 2012
studio workspace, final board