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5 T R E N D S E T T I N G S W E AT E R S

Crochet LOVE OF

Fall F Fal Fa all 2 2014 014

P r o j e c t s , T i p s & Te c h n i q u e s f o r C r o c h e t E n t h u s i a s t s

29

Essential

FALL

PATTERNS

SIMPLE PROJECTS–

18

EASY

PATTERNS

A Beginner’s Guide: ENCHANTING ENTRELAC page 30

US $6.99

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Display until October 20, 2014

Make this adorable school bus! Nottingham Cowl, page 50

a g e 86

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New Shawls, Scarves, Hats & More!


Your online resource to ďŹ nd the right yarn for the right project!

NEW COLORFUL HOOKS

Having a hard time deciding which yarns to use for that knit project? Our online feature, 52 Weeks of Yarn, is here to help! Each week we review a different yarn and offer tips, hints, and ideas to turn that yarn into your next delightful knit! Go to www.LoveOfKnitting.com and click on Yarn Guide.

for Tunisian, double-ended, or traditional crochet (or knooking).

The Original Interchangeable Made in the USA CROCHETDENISECOMs  


Contents Technique and more 11

30

14

Stitch Dictionary – Cluster Stitches Bring delightful texture to your projects with three easy stitches A Beginner’s Guide – Tunisian Entrelac Master this impressive technique

Stylish sweaters

22

18

Iridescent Crescent A trendy shape that flatters everyone

46

Silver Swing Jacket Stay warm with this comfy, draping design

54

Sequoia Vest Post stitches worked with chunky yarn produce amazing texture

64

Chesapeake Sweater A beautiful, classic shape worked in Tunisian crochet

73

Cityscape Sweater A twotoned Tunisian sweater with a striking knit appearance

Accessories and fun stuff 8

Sonoma Shawl Puff stitches set this stunning triangular shawl apart

14

Cambridge Hat and Scarf He’ll love this handsome set, created with easy post stitches

22

Taos Wrap A lovely chevron design you’re sure to cherish

26

Rocky Mountain Sunset Clever stitches give this hat and cowl a fun woven look

34

Autumn Entrelac Shawl Use your new entrelac skills to make this inspiring project

37

Auckland Set A lattice stitch pattern brings this scarf and mitt set to life

40

Build Your Own Bag Two different bag shapes and a variety of embellishments for you to mix and match

50

Nottingham Cowl A brilliant, oversized accessory to keep you cozy

76

Vintage Hat Wonderful openwork forms this charming hat

82

Rattan Wrap Cables and ruffles create a look you’ll love

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Love of Crochet | Fall 2014

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Fall 2014

40

86 Home dec 70

Squash Trio Fun seasonal gourds bring fall into your home

78

Mondrian Throw An abstract geometric pattern that’s a true work of art

Crochet kids 58

Teensy Turtle Treat your little one to this adorable set

86

Back to School Get the whole family ready for the new school year with this darling school bus

46 In every issue 6 45 69 91 92

Editor’s Letter Crochet Corner Books We Love Resources Basic Crochet Instructions

Web bonus 98

Bucket Bag A bonus Build Your Own Bag pattern with a simple, round shape

Copyright @2014 Crafts Media, LLC. All rights reserved. Love of Crochet (ISSN 2330-2895), is published 4 times a year in Spring, Summer, Fall and Winter by Crafts Media, LLC, 90 Sherman Street, Cambridge MA 02140-3264,USA. Application to Mail at Periodicals Postage Prices is Pending at Boston, MA and additional mailing offices. Subscription rates for the United States and possessions: $24.99 for one year (4 issues). Subscribers in Canada, add $6.00 per year to your subscription cost (includes postage GST), International add $12.00 per year to your subscription cost. Prepaid payment in US funds only. Major credit cards accepted. Allow 6 weeks for delivery. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to Love of Crochet, PO Box 420235, Palm Coast, FL 32142-0235. Return undeliverable Canadian addresses to Bleuchip International, PO Box 25542, London, ON N6C 6B2

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78 Love of Crochet | Fall 2014

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Fall is my favorite time to craft, and I think I enjoy the planning almost as much as I enjoy the stitching. I love sitting down, making a list, and planning out the projects that I want to make. I think about who is expecting new babies or birthdays that are coming up, and early fall is the perfect time to plan for Christmas presents. This fall is no different, and I am already beginning to think about what I want to stitch when the weather cools and the gray days encourage me to spend hours happily crafting. I am excited that there will be new babies in the family soon, and I am thinking that at least one of these new family members will need the Teensy Turtle set, page 58. I am not sure that I will have time for the entire set, but I definitely want to make the hat and pants at the very least. I also have friends with children who will be starting school this year, and the Back to School bus, page 86, is a soft and friendly toy to get them excited for the new school year. I am also planning on spending a little of my crafting time learning a new technique, and I am intrigued by the Beginner’s Guide to Entrelac, page 30. This fantastic technique features a small number of stitches worked in two different directions, creating the appearance of woven fabric. I have used this technique in knitting before, but never in crochet, and I am eager to get my Tunisian hook and try it out. Between my love of the color orange and my current obsession with shawls, it makes perfect sense that I want to perfect my new entrelac skills with the Autumn Entrelac Shawl, page 34. We have recently been talking about learning new skills at the Love of Crochet office, and I am excited to announce that one of our staffers is going to learn to crochet this fall. If you are not already a fan of our blog, be sure to visit us this fall and see how Danielle is coming along with her new crochet skills. We have challenged each other to learn something new, and now we want to challenge you as well. Visit us online and tell us what you want to learn to do this fall, and let us encourage you to expand your crafting skills. Share with us your triumphs, and show us your finished projects - we can’t wait to hear what inspires you. Until next time,

FIND US ON SOCIAL MEDIA: Special Thank You... We would like to thank The Infinite Monkey Theorem (www.theinfinitemonkeytheorem.com), Clint and Katia Cooper, and Kristine Sharp Carafelli for allowing us to use their beautiful location and homes for the photography in this issue.

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Love of Crochet | Fall 2014

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Editor-in-Chief: Jennifer Burt Art Director: Kathy Locke Associate Editor: Jamie Taylor Technical Editor: Amy Polcyn Graphic Designer: Danielle Fay Photography: J.C. Leacock, Mellisa Karlin Mahoney, Kathy Locke Publisher: Lisa O’Bryan

Chairman & CEO: David Nussbaum CFO & COO: James Ogle President: Sara Domville President: David Blansfield Chief Digital Officer: Chad Phelps VP/ECommerce: Lucas Hilbert Senior VP/Operations: Phil Graham VP/Communications: Stacie Berger Group Publisher: Kristi Loeffelholz OPERATIONS Newsstand Consultant: T.J. Montilli Online Marketing Manager: Jodi Lee Advertising Sales Coordinator: Lisa Buelow Administrative Assistant: Jane Flynn Retail Sales: LaRita Godfrey, 801-816-8410 ADVERTISING INQUIRIES Ruth Moline, 720-937-1599 Online Advertising Operations: Andrea Abrahamson, 303-215-5686

Love of Crochet customer service: 866-436-2465 To subscribe or to change the address of your current subscription: Subscriber Services Phone: 855-309-6638, International: 386-597-4387 Love of Crochet, PO Box 420235, Palm Coast, FL 32142-0235 E-mail: loveofcrochet@emailcustomerservice.com Entire contents copyright ©2014 by Creative Crafts Group, LLC, 741 Corporate Circle, Suite A, Golden, CO 80401. The contents of this magazine may not be used in any form or reproduced in any media without written consent of the publisher. Projects made with patterns from Love of Crochet may not be sold or used for commercial purposes without permission from the project designer. Important Reader Information: Please send all editorial material, advertising material, photos and correspondence to Love of Crochet, 741 Corporate Circle, Suite A, Golden, CO 80401 or call 303-2155648; e-mail: mail@loveofcrochet.com or visit www. loveofcrochet.com. Submissions: We welcome the submission of designs and photos of projects, but we cannot assume responsibility for material or return it without a self-addressed, stamped envelope. We reserve the right to publish all project photos received by us, in all media. All letters written to the editor either by mail or e-mail become the property of Love of Crochet magazine and are subject to publication. Letters may be edited for space or clarity. Dealer Inquiries Welcome: Love of Crochet is available to retail shops at a discount. Call 801-816-8366 for details. Printed in the USA.

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Sonoma Shawl The puff stitches and rich color of this shawl will have you dreaming Skill level: Intermediate

of breathtaking vineyards. Triangular shaping allows you to wear it in

Skills used:

multiple ways, and soft superwash wool makes it as luxurious as a

• Single crochet

weekend at an elegant winery.

• Double crochet

Designed by Lisa Gentry

• Treble crochet

Special abbreviation

• Puff stitch Finished measurements: 18" deep x 64" wide, after blocking Yarn weight:

3

Yarn used: LB Collection Superwash Merino by Lion Brand

MATERIALS • 3 skeins LB Collection Superwash Merino by Lion Brand, 100% superwash merino wool (300 yds/100g) in color 141 Wild Berry • U.S. size H-8 (5mm) crochet hook, or size required for gauge

Puff: Yo, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop, [yo, insert hook in same st and pull up a loop] 3 times, yo and draw through all loops on hook.

SHAWL Ch 5. Row 1: [1 tr, ch 2, 2 tr] all in 5th ch. Row 2: [Ch 5, 1 tr] in first tr, [ch 2, 1 dc in next tr] twice, ch 2, 2 tr in top of skipped ch-4. Row 3: Ch 5, tr 1, ch 3, puff in previous ch, dc 1 in dc, ch 2, dc 1 in next dc, puff in previous dc, ch 3, tr 1 in next tr, tr 1 in top of beg ch-5. (2 puffs)

Row 4: Ch 5 (counts as tr), [1 tr, ch 2, 1 dc] in next tr, ch 2, skip ch-2, dc 1 in next ch, puff in previous dc, ch 3, puff in previous ch, skip [puff, 1 dc, ch-2, 1 dc, puff], dc 1 in next ch, ch 2, skip ch-2, [1 dc, ch 2, 1 tr] in next tr, tr 1 in last tr. (2 puffs) Row 5: Ch 5, [1 tr, ch 3, puff in previous ch, dc 1] in next tr, ch 2, skip ch-2, dc 1 in next dc, puff in previous dc, ch 3, skip [ch-2, dc, puff], dc 1 in next ch, ch 2, skip ch-1, dc in next ch, ch 3, puff in previous ch, skip [puff, dc, ch-2] dc 1 in next dc, ch 2, skip ch-2, [1 dc, puff in previous dc, ch 3, 1 tr] in next tr, tr 1 in last tr. (4 puffs) Row 6: Ch 5, [1 tr, ch 2, 1 dc] in next tr, ch 2, skip ch-2, dc 1 in next ch, puff in previous dc, ch 3, puff in

• Yarn needle

Yarn alternatives Save: Punto Su Punto Orsetto by Ornaghi Filati Spend: Falk by Dale of Norway Splurge: Pure Wool DK by Rowan

DETAILS Gauge 1 patt repeat (slightly stretched) = 2½" (6cm); 4 rows = 1¾" (4cm)

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previous ch, skip [puff, dc, ch-2, dc, puff], dc 1 in next ch, [ch 2, skip ch2, dc in dc] twice; ch 2, skip ch-2, dc 1 in next ch, puff in previous dc, ch 3, puff in previous ch, skip [puff, dc, ch-2, dc, puff], dc 1 in next ch, ch 2, skip ch-2, [1 dc, ch 2, 1 tr] in next tr, tr 1 in last tr. (4 puffs) Row 7: Ch 5, [1 tr, ch 3, puff in previous ch, 1 dc] in next tr, ch 2, skip ch-2, dc 1 in next dc, puff in previous dc, ch 3, skip [ch-2, dc, puff], dc 1 in next ch, ch 2, skip ch-1, dc 1 in next ch, ch 3, puff in previous ch, skip [puff, dc, ch-2]; dc 1 in next dc, ch 2, skip ch-2, dc 1 in next dc, puff in previous dc, ch 3, skip [ch-2, dc, puff], dc 1 in next ch, ch 2, skip ch-1, dc 1 in next ch, ch 3, puff in previous ch, skip [puff, dc, ch-2], dc 1 in next dc, ch 2, sk ch-2, [1 dc, puff in previous dc, ch 3, 1 tr] in next tr, tr 1 in last tr. (6 puffs) Row 8: Ch 5, [1 tr, ch 2, 1 dc] in next tr, ch 2, skip ch-2, dc 1 in next ch; *puff in previous dc, ch 3, puff in previous ch, skip [puff, dc, ch-2, dc, puff], dc 1 in next ch**, [ch 2, skip ch-2, dc in dc] twice; ch 2, skip ch-2, dc 1 in next ch; rep from * twice; ending last rep at ** ch 2, skip ch-2, [1 dc, ch 2, 1 tr] in next tr, tr 1 in last tr. (6 puffs) Row 9: Ch 5, [1 tr, ch 3, puff in previous ch, 1 dc] in next tr, ch 2,

skip ch-2, dc 1 in next dc, *puff in previous dc, ch 3, skip [ch-2, 1 dc, puff], dc 1 in next ch, ch 2, skip ch-1, dc in next ch, ch 3, puff in previous ch, skip [puff, 1 dc, ch-2]; dc 1 in next dc, ch 2, skip ch-2**, dc 1 in next dc; rep from * twice, ending last rep at **; [1 dc, puff in previous dc, ch 3, 1 tr] in next tr, tr 1 in last tr. (8 puffs) Row 10: Ch 5, [1 tr, ch 2, 1 dc] in next tr, ch 2, skip ch-2, dc 1 in next ch; *puff in previous dc, ch 3, puff in previous ch, skip [puff, 1 dc, ch-2, 1 dc, puff], dc 1 in next ch**, [ch 2, skip ch-2, 1 dc in dc] twice; ch 2, skip ch-2, dc 1 in next ch; rep from * 3 times; ending last rep at ** ch 2, skip ch-2, [1 dc, ch 2, 1 tr] in next tr, tr 1 in last tr. (8 puffs) Rows 11–38: Rep rows 9 and 10. Next row: Rep row 9. Do not fasten off. Continue with edging.

Edging Work [puff, ch 2, puff in 2nd chain from hook, ch 1] in each side treble crochet across both sides and in point of shawl. Fasten off.

FINISHING Weave in ends. Block to measurements. p

Sonoma Shawl 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3

g

gin

Ed

2 1

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Stitch Dictionary By Amy Polcyn

Cluster Stitches In crochet, clusters are groups of stitches worked over a number of

Special abbreviations

stitches in the previous row and joined together at the top, forming

Sc2tog: [Pull up a loop in next st] twice, yo and draw through all loops on hook.

a triangle shape. In a sense, they are the opposite of shells, which are multiple stitches worked in the same stitch, forming a fan shape. Bobbles and popcorn stitches are similar in that they are also multiple stitches joined together at the top; however, they are worked over one stitch rather than a number of stitches. Cluster stitches can be composed of single crochet, half double, double, or even taller stitches. The patterns shown here use single and double crochet and are all very easy to execute. The resulting fabric is dense, ďŹ rm and holds its shape well, with a subtle texture perfect for cooler-weather crocheting and cozy projects. For a fabric with more drape, be sure to use a larger hook than you would normally for the weight of yarn used.

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Sc3tog: [Pull up a loop in next st] 3 times, yo and draw through all loops on hook. 4-dc cluster: *Yo, insert hook in sp before previous dc (or last st of previous cluster), yo and pull up a loop (yarn will be around post of dc), yo and draw through 2 loops; rep from * 2 more times (4 loops on hook). Yo, insert hook into next indicated st/sp/ch, yo and pull up a loop, yo and draw through 2 loops (5 loops on hook), yo and draw through all loops on hook.

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Stitch Dictionary

Single Crochet Cluster Trinity Stitch This is a very basic stitch, perfect for an introduction to cluster stitches.

This stitch is slightly more textured due to working sc3tog instead of sc2tog for the clusters.

(Multiple of 2 + 1 sts, add 1 more st for beginning chain)

(Multiple of 2 + 1 sts, add 1 more st for beginning chain)

Ch 18.

Ch 18.

Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook, *ch 1, skip 1 ch, sc 1 in next ch; rep from * to end, turn.

Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc3tog (insert hook in same ch as first sc for first st of sc3tog, and then in following 2 chains), *ch 1, sc3tog (insert hook in same ch as last st of previous cluster and in following 2 chains); rep from * across, sc 1 in last ch (same as last st of previous cluster), turn.

Row 2: Ch 1, sc 1 in first st, ch 1, sc2tog (insert hook in next ch-1 sp for first st of sc2tog and in following ch-1 sp for 2nd st of sc2tog), *ch 1, sc2tog (insert hook in same ch-1 sp as last sc2tog for first st and following ch-1 sp for 2nd st); rep from * across, ending sc in last st, turn. Row 3: Ch 1, sc 1 in first st, *ch 1, skip ch-1 sp, sc 1 in top of sc2tog cluster; rep from * across, ending sc 1 in last st, turn. Rep rows 2 and 3 for patt.

Row 2: Ch 1, sc 1 in first st, sc3tog (insert hook in same st as first sc, then in top of next cluster, then in next ch-1 sp), *ch 1, sc3tog (insert hook in same ch as last st of previous cluster, then top of next cluster, then next ch-1 sp); rep from * across, working last st of last cluster in last sc, sc 1 in same st, turn. Rep row 2 for patt.

3 2 1

2 1

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Project ideas PILLOW Finished measurements: Approx 16" square

Materials • Approx 400 yards worsted weight yarn • U.S. size H-8 (5mm) crochet hook • 16" square pillow form • Yarn needle

Gauge 16 sts = 4" (10cm) in patt

Front and back (make 2) Ch 66 for single crochet clusters, trinity patt, or slanting clusters. Work in patt until piece measures 16". Fasten off.

Finishing

Slanting Clusters

Sew front and back tog on 3 sides, insert pillow form, sew last side closed.

This stitch alternates rows of clusters slanting in opposite directions for a fun, semi-woven look.

PLACEMAT

(Multiple of 3 + 6 sts)

Finished measurements: Approx 16" long x 10" wide

Ch 24. Row 1: Dc in 6th ch from hook, *ch 3, skip 2 ch, 4-dc cluster, working last st of cluster in next ch; rep from * across, working last st of cluster in last ch, turn.

Materials • Approx 800 yards worsted weight yarn (for 4 mats)

Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in next ch-3 sp, *ch 3, 4-dc cluster, working last st of cluster in next ch-3 sp; rep from * across, placing final st in t-ch from previous row.

• U.S. size H-8 (5mm) crochet hook • Yarn needle

Rep row 2 for patt.

Gauge 16 sts = 4" (10cm) in patt 3 2

Placemat (make 4) 1

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Ch 66 for single crochet clusters, trinity patt, or slanting clusters. Work in patt until piece measures 10". Fasten off. If desired, work 1 rnd of single crochet or crab stitch around outside edges.

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Love of Crochet | Fall 2014

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Cambridge Hat and Scarf Keep the guy in your life warm with this cozy hat and scarf. Double

Skill level: Easy

crochet post stitches combined with soft tweed give this set a texture

Skills used:

that looks as plush as it feels.

• Half double crochet

Designed by Tian Connaughton

• Double crochet • Post stitches Sizes: Men’s Small/Medium (Medium/Large) Finished measurements: Scarf: 5" wide x 62" long Hat: 18 (20)" circumference, stretches to fit Yarn weight:

3

Yarn used: City Tweed DK by Knit Picks

MATERIALS • 6 skeins City Tweed DK by Knit Picks, 55% merino wool, 25% superwash alpaca, 20% Donegal tweed (123 yds/50g) in color 24550 Tabby • U.S. size G-6 (4.25mm) crochet hook, or size required for gauge • Yarn needle

DETAILS Gauge 20 sts = 4" (10cm) in patt

Special abbreviations BPdc (back post double crochet): Yo, insert hook from back of work to front, then to back again around post of st in row below, yo and pull up a loop around post of st (3 loops on hook), [yo and draw through 2 loops] twice to complete dc.

Row 3: Ch 2, *FPdc 4, BPdc 4; rep from * across, ending with hdc 1 in t-ch, turn. Row 4: Ch 2, BPdc, FPdc 4, *BPdc 4, FPdc 4; rep from *, ending with BPdc 3, hdc 1 in t-ch, turn. Row 5: Ch 2, FPdc 2, BPdc 4, *FPdc 4, BPdc 4; rep from *, ending with FPdc 2, hdc 1 in t-ch, turn.

FPdc (front post double crochet): Yo, insert hook from front of work to back, then to front again around post of st in row below, yo and pull up a loop around post of st (3 loops on hook), [yo and draw through 2 loops] twice to complete dc.

SCARF Ch 27.

Save: Luxurious Tweed DK by Sublime

Row 1: Dc in 3rd ch from hook (counts as dc) and each ch across, turn. (26 dc)

Spend: Felted Tweed DK by Rowan

Row 2: Ch 2, dc across, turn.

Yarn alternatives

Splurge: Tatamy Tweed DK by Kraemer Yarns

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Row 6: Ch 2, BPdc 3, FPdc 4, *BPdc 4, FPdc 4; rep from *, ending with BPdc 1, hdc 1 in t-ch, turn. Row 7: Ch 2, *BPdc 4, FPdc 4; rep from *, ending with hdc 1 in t-ch, turn. Row 8: Ch 2, FPdc 1, BPdc 4, *FPdc 4, BPdc 4; rep from *, ending with FPdc 3, hdc 1 in t-ch, turn. Row 9: Ch 2, BPdc 2, FPdc 4, *BPdc 4, FPdc 4; rep from *, ending with BPdc 2, hdc 1 in t-ch, turn. Row 10: Ch 2, FPdc 3, BPdc 4, *FPdc 4, BPdc 4; rep from *, ending with FPdc 1, hdc 1 in t-ch, turn. Rep rows 3–10 until piece measures 61". Work even in dc for 2 rows. Fasten off.

HAT Loosely, ch 65 (73). Join with a sl st, being careful not to twist. Rnd 1: Ch 2, dc in each ch around, join. (65 [73] dc) Rnds 2 and 3: Ch 2, dc around, join. Rnd 4: Ch 2, *FPdc 4, BPdc 4; rep from * around, join. Rnd 5: Ch 2, FPdc 3, BPdc 4, *FPdc 4, BPdc 4; rep from * around, ending with FPdc 1, join. Rnd 6: Ch 2, FPdc 2, BPdc 4, *FPdc 4, BPdc 4; rep from * around, ending with FPdc 2, join.

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Love of Crochet | Fall 2014

Rnd 7: Ch 2, 1 FPdc, BPdc 4, *FPdc 4, BPdc 4; rep from * around, ending with FPdc 3, join.

Rnd 10: Ch 2, BPdc 2, *FPdc 4, BPdc 4; rep from * around, ending with BPdc 2, join.

Rnd 8: Ch 2, *BPdc 4, FPdc 4; rep from * around, join.

Rnd 11: Ch 2, BPdc 1, *FPdc 4, BPdc 4; rep from * around, ending with BPdc 3, join.

Rnd 9: Ch 2, BPdc 3, *FPdc 4, BPdc 4; rep from * around, ending with BPdc 1, join.

Rep rnds 4–11 until piece measures 6½".

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Shape crown Dec rnd 1: *Dc 1 in next 2 sts, dc2tog; rep from * around, ending with dc 1 in rem sts, join. Dec rnd 2: *Dc2tog, dc 1 in next 2 sts; rep from * around, ending with dc 1 in rem sts, join. Rep last 2 rnds two more times. Working in a continuous spiral, dc2tog until all sts are consumed. Fasten off.

FINISHING Weave in ends. Block. p

Cambridge Hat and Scarf 10 9

8

7

6 5

4 3

2

1

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Iridescent Crescent With its interesting lines and flattering silhouette, the sharkbite style is all the rage this season. The elongated sides give this tunic an extra dose of charm and drama, while the open stitch pattern creates a lovely fabric. You’ll easily find a fluid rhythm as you stitch up this popular design. Designed by Marly Bird

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Skill level: Easy Skills used:

• Double crochet

Rnd 1 (WS): Sl st in each of first 2 dc and in first ch-1 sp, beg DV in same ch-1 sp, *DV in each DV to next CDV, skip 2 dc of current DV and 1 dc of CDV, dc 1 in next dc, CDV in ch-2 sp of CDV, dc 1 in next dc of CDV, skip next dc of CDV; rep from * for each CDV around, DV in each DV to end, join with sl st in beg ch-3, turn.

CDV (corner double V-st): [2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc] in indicated st or sp.

• V-stitches Sizes: Women’s Small (Medium, Large, Extra Large, 2X, 3X) Finished measurements: Bust: 37 (40½, 43¾, 47¼, 54, 57¼)" Length: 24 (24, 25½, 26¼, 27¼, 27¼)", excluding shortrow corners 2

Yarn used: Boboli Lace by Berroco

MATERIALS • 5 (6, 7, 8, 9, 10) skeins Boboli Lace by Berroco, 42% wool, 35% acrylic, 23% viscose (350 yds/100g) in color 4367 Gazebo • U.S. size G-6 (4mm) crochet hook, or size required for gauge • U.S. size 7 (4.5mm) and H-8 (5mm) crochet hooks • Yarn needle

Yarn alternatives Save: Forest Dew Fingering by Lotus Yarns Spend: Lima by Shibui Splurge: Finito by Malabrigo

DETAILS Gauge 4¾ patt repeats and 10 rows = 4" (10cm) in iris patt using smallest hook, after blocking

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Iris 4-round increase

DV (double V-st): [2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc] in indicated st or sp. Beg DV (beginning double V-st): Ch 3 (counts as dc), [1 dc, ch 1, 2 dc] in indicated st or sp.

• Single crochet

Yarn weight:

Special abbreviations

Stitch pattern Iris Rnd 1 (WS): Sc in blo of 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, join with sl st in first sc, turn. Rnd 2: Beg DV in first sc, skip 3 sc, *DV in next sc, skip 3 sc; rep from * around, join with sl st in beg ch-3, turn. Rnd 3: Sl st in each of first 2 dc and in first ch-1 sp, beg DV in same ch-1 sp, DV in each DV around, join with sl st in beg ch-3, turn. Rep rnd 3 only for patt.

Iris 2-round increase Rnd 1 (WS): Sl st in each of first 2 dc and in first ch-1 sp, beg DV in same ch-1 sp, *DV in each DV to next CDV, [skip 1 dc, dc 1 in next dc] of current DV, [skip next dc, dc 1 in next dc] of next CDV, CDV in ch-2 sp of CDV, [dc 1 in next dc, skip next dc] of CDV, [dc 1 in next dc, skip next dc] of next DV, DV in ch-1 sp of same DV; rep from * for each CDV around, DV in each DV to end, join with sl st in beg ch-3, turn. Rnd 2: Sl st in each of first 2 dc and in first ch-1 sp, beg DV in same ch-1 sp, *DV in each DV to next CDV, skip 2 dc of current DV, DV in next dc, skip 3 dc, CDV in ch-2 sp of CDV, skip 2 dc of CDV and next dc, DV in next dc; rep from * for each CDV around, DV in each DV to end, join with sl st in beg ch-3, turn. (2 reps inc at each corner)

Rnd 2: Sl st in each of first 2 dc and in first ch-1 sp, beg DV in same ch-1 sp, *DV in each DV to next CDV, skip 2 dc of current DV and next dc, dc 1 in each of next 2 dc of CDV, CDV in ch-2 sp of CDV, dc 1 in each of next 2 dc of CDV, skip next dc; rep from * for each CDV around, DV in each DV to end, join with sl st in beg ch-3, turn. Rnd 3: Sl st in each of first 2 dc and in first ch-1 sp, beg DV in same ch-1 sp, *DV in each DV to next CDV, skip 2 dc of current DV and next dc, dc 1 in each of next 3 dc, CDV in ch-2 sp of CDV, dc 1 in each of next 3 dc; rep from * for each CDV around, DV in each DV to end, join with sl st in beg ch-3, turn. Rnd 4: Sl st in each of first 2 dc and in first ch-1 sp, beg DV in same ch-1 sp, *DV in each DV to next CDV, skip 2 dc of current DV and next dc, DV in next dc, CDV in ch-2 sp of CDV, skip 2 dc of CDV and next dc, DV in next dc; rep from * for each CDV around, DV in each DV to end, join with sl st in beg ch-3, turn. (2 reps inc at each corner)

Notes Tunic is worked from the top down in one piece. Work in center spaces of DV and CDV sts unless otherwise indicated. Turn work after each rnd.

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19


Short row corners With RS facing and largest hook, count back 7 DVs from one of the CDVs, and join yarn with a sl st in this DV. Row 1 (RS): Ch 2 (counts as dc), DV in each of next 6 DV, skip 2 dc of current DV and next dc, DV in next dc, CDV in ch-2 sp of CDV, skip 2 dc of CDV and next dc, DV in next dc, DV in each of next 6 DV, dc 1 in DV, turn.

SWEATER Yoke With smallest hook, ch 113, and work rnd 1 of iris patt. Next rnd (RS): Beg DV in first sc, skip 3 sc, [DV in next sc, skip 3 sc] 3 (3, 3, 3, 4, 4) times, CDV in next sc, skip 3 sc, [DV in next sc, skip 3 sc] 5 (5, 5, 5, 3, 3) times, CDV in next sc, skip 3 sc, [DV in next sc, skip 3 sc] 7 (7, 7, 7, 9, 9) times, CDV in next sc, skip 3 sc, [DV in next sc, skip 3 sc] 5 (5, 5, 5, 3, 3) times, CDV in next sc, skip 3 sc, DV in each DV to end, join with sl st in beg ch-3, turn. Work iris 2-rnd inc patt 0 (2, 3, 4, 6, 8) times, or 0 (4, 6, 8, 12, 16) rnds total. (28 [44, 52, 60, 76, 92] reps around including CDVs) Work iris 4-rnd inc patt 4 (3, 3, 3, 2, 1) times, or 16 (12, 12, 12, 8, 4) rnds total, then work rnds 1–3 only once more. (60 [68, 76, 84, 92, 100] reps around, including CDVs and not including extra dc)

Separate body and sleeves Next rnd (RS): Sl st in each of first 2 dc and in first ch-1 sp, beg DV in same ch-1 sp, *DV in each DV to next CDV, skip 2 dc of current DV and next dc, DV in next dc, 2 dc in next CDV, ch 15, skip 13 (15, 17, 19, 19, 21) DV, 2 dc in next CDV, skip 2 dc of CDV and next dc, DV in next dc; rep from * once more, DV in each DV to end, join with sl st in beg ch-3, turn.

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Body Rnd 1 (WS): Sl st in each of first 2 dc and in first ch-1 sp, beg DV in same ch-1 sp, *DV in each DV to next ch15 sp, DV in dc just before ch-15 sp, skip 3 ch, [DV in next ch, skip 3 ch] 3 times, DV in dc just after ch-15 sp; rep from * once more, DV in each DV to end, join with sl st in beg ch-3, turn. (44 [48, 52, 56, 64, 68] reps around) Work even in iris patt for 8 (8, 10, 10, 12, 12) more rnds.

Shape sides Next rnd (RS): Sl st in each of first 2 dc and in first ch-1 sp, beg DV in same ch-1 sp, DV in each of next 10 (11, 12, 13, 15, 16) DV, CDV in next DV, DV in each of next 21 (23, 25, 27, 31, 33) DV, CDV in next DV, DV in each DV to end, join with sl st in beg ch-3, turn. Work iris 4-rnd inc patt once, or 4 rnds total. (46 [50, 54, 58, 66, 70] reps around including CDVs) Change to medium hook, and work iris 4-rnd inc patt 3 more times, or 12 rnds total. (52 [56, 60, 64, 72, 76] reps around including CDVs) Change to largest hook, work iris 4-rnd inc patt twice more, then work rnds 1–3 only once more. (56 [60, 64, 68, 76, 80] reps around including CDVs and not including extra dc) Fasten off.

Row 2: Sl st in each of first 2 dc and in first ch-1 sp, ch 2 (counts as dc), DV in each of next 6 DV, skip 2 dc of current DV and 1 dc of CDV, dc in next dc, CDV in ch-2 sp of CDV, dc in next dc of CDV, skip next dc of CDV, DV in each of next 6 DV, dc 1 in DV, turn. Row 3: Sl st in each of first 2 dc and in first ch-1 sp, ch 2 (counts as dc), DV in each of next 5 DV, skip 2 dc of current DV and next dc, dc 1 in each of next 2 dc of CDV, CDV in ch-2 sp of CDV, dc in each of next 2 dc of CDV, skip next dc, DV in each of next 5 DV, dc 1 in next DV, turn. Row 4: Sl st in each of first 2 dc and in first ch-1 sp, ch 2 (counts as dc), DV in each of next 4 DV, skip 2 dc of current DV and next dc, dc 1 in each of next 3 dc, CDV in ch-2 sp of CDV, dc in each of next 3 dc, DV in each of next 4 DV, dc 1 in next DV, turn. Row 5: Sl st in each of first 2 dc and in first ch-1 sp, ch 2 (counts as dc), DV in each of next 3 DV, skip 2 dc of current DV and next dc, DV in next dc, CDV in ch-2 sp of CDV, skip 2 dc of CDV and next dc, DV in next dc, DV in each of next 3 DV, dc 1 in next DV, turn. Row 6: Sl st in each of first 2 dc and in first ch-1 sp, ch 2 (counts as dc), DV in each of next 3 DV, skip 2 dc of current DV and 1 dc of CDV, dc 1 in next dc, CDV in ch-2 sp of CDV, dc 1 in next dc of CDV, skip next dc of CDV, DV in each of next 3 DV, dc 1 in DV, turn. Row 7: Sl st in each of first 2 dc and in first ch-1 sp, ch 2 (counts as dc), DV in each of next 2 DV, skip 2 dc of

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current DV and next dc, dc 1 in each of next 2 dc of CDV, CDV in ch-2 sp of CDV, dc 1 in each of next 2 dc of CDV, skip next dc, DV in each of next 2 DV, dc 1 in next DV, turn. Row 8: Sl st in each of first 2 dc and in first ch-1 sp, ch 2 (counts as dc), DV in next DV, skip 2 dc of current DV and next dc, dc 1 in each of next 3 dc, CDV in ch-2 sp of CDV, dc in each of next 3 dc, DV in next DV, dc 1 in next DV, turn. Row 9: Sl st in each of first 2 dc and in first ch-1 sp, ch 2 (counts as dc), skip 3 dc, DV in next dc, CDV in CDV, skip 3 dc, DV in next dc, dc 1 in next DV. Fasten off. Work other side the same.

Sleeves

Change to largest hook, and work 7 more rnds in iris patt. Fasten off.

FINISHING Weave in ends. Block. p

50½ (57¼, 64, 70¾, 77½, 84¼)"

27½ (27½, 29, 29¾, 30¾, 30¾)"

Change to medium hook, and work 4 rnds in iris patt.

23½"

8½ (8½, 9¼, 10, 10, 10)"

Rnd 2: Sl st in each of first 2 dc and in first ch-1 sp, beg DV in same ch-1 sp, *DV in each DV to next sc, skip 3 sc, [DV in next sc, skip 3 sc] 3 times, DV in each DV to end, join with sl st in beg ch-3, turn.

Iridescent Crescent

15½ (15½, 16¼, 16¼, 17¼, 17¼)"

Rnd 1 (RS): Beg DV in same ch-1 sp as join, DV in each DV to next CDV, skip 2 dc of current DV and next dc, DV in next dc, 2 dc in next CDV, sc 1 in rem loops of ch-15 at underarm, 2 dc in next CDV, skip 2 dc of CDV and next dc, DV in next dc, DV in each DV to end, join with sl st in beg ch-3, turn.

37 (40½, 43¾, 47¼, 57¼)"

¼, , 20 )" ½ 8 (1 23½ 16¾ , 22, 2 2

3½"

With RS facing and smallest hook, join yarn with sl st in any ch-1 sp of sleeve.

53¼ (57¼, 61, 64¾, 72½, 76¼)"

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Taos Wrap The soothing hues and splendid yarns in this shawl will have you conjuring up thoughts of a stunning southwestern landscape. Let each stitch whisk you away as you create this classic chevron design, composed of strategically placed increases and decreases worked in Tunisian crochet. Designed by Sheryl Thies Skill level: Easy

Yarn alternatives

Special abbreviations

Save: Cascade 220 by Cascade Yarns

Foundation forward pass: *Insert hook in next chain, yo and pull up loop, leave loop on hook; rep from *. Do not turn work.

Skills used:

Spend: Jacob by Done Roving Yarns

• Single crochet

Splurge: Super Merino by Artyarns

• Tunisian crochet Finished measurements: 62" long x 16" wide Yarn weight:

4

Yarn used: Symphony by Prism Yarn

DETAILS Gauge 20 sts = 4" (10cm) in chevron patt using smaller hook

Foundation return pass: Yo and draw through 1 loop, *yo and draw through 2 loops; rep from * until 1 loop remains. Tss forward pass: *Insert hook from right to left behind front vertical bar, yo and pull up loop, leave loop on hook; rep from * across row.

MATERIALS • 6 skeins Symphony by Prism Yarn, 80% merino, 10% cashmere, 10% nylon (118 yds/56g) in color Blue Lagoon (A) • 1 skein Manhattan by Prism Yarn, 46% nylon, 30% cotton, 24% rayon (130 yds/56g) in color Blue Lagoon (B) • U.S. size L-13 (9mm) Tunisian crochet hook, or size required for gauge • U.S. size N-15 (10mm) crochet hook • Yarn needle

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Tss return pass: ass: Yo and draw p, *yo and draw through 1 loop, ps; rep from * until 1 through 2 loops; loop remains. king right to left, insert Tss3tog: Working hook behind next 3 vertical bars, yo op. and pull up loop. Sc BO: *Insertt hook from right to ont vertical bar, yo and left behind front dd h2 pull up loop, yo and draw th through loops on hook; rep from * across.

Stitch pattern Chevron Forward pass: Tss, *yo, Tss 7, Tss3tog, Tss 7, yo, Tss; rep from * to last st, end Tss. Return pass: Work as for Tss return pass. Rep forward and return passes for patt.

Notes Yo appears as a slant on next forward pass and is worked as a stitch.

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SHAWL With larger hook and A, ch 57. Change to Tunisian hook and work foundation forward pass. (57 loops on hook) Work foundation return pass. Work in chevron patt until piece measures 5". [With B, work 1 set of chevron forward and return passes; with A, work 3 sets of chevron forward and return passes] 5 times. Cut B and with A cont in established patt until piece measures 45". [With B, work 1 set of chevron

forward and return passes; with A, work 3 sets of chevron forward and return passes] 5 times. With A, cont in established patt until piece measures 62". With larger hook, Sc BO.

FINISHING With smaller hook and A, sc along each long side. With B, sc along each short edge, working 2 sc into stitch before and after point. Fasten off. Weave in ends. Block to measurements. p

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Rocky Mountain Sunset A creative combination of colors and stitches easily creates the warm, Skill level: Easy

woven appearance on this hat and cowl. Whether you’re hiking in

Skills used:

the mountains or visiting your favorite shops on a blustery day, this

• Single crochet

exquisite set is a fashionable way to protect yourself from the elements.

• Double crochet

Designed by Sue Perez

Finished measurements: Cowl: 27" circumference x 7" deep Hat: 21½" circumference

Yarn alternatives

Notes

Save: Rhythm Superwash by Jojoland

All stitches are worked in back horizontal bars unless otherwise indicated. Cowl is worked RS facing at all times, in rounds joined with mock invisible joins. When making mock invisible joins, top edge of join should match other stitches in size, and tall loop tail (when join is complete) should be about the same size as a “normal” working loop. If loop tail is noticeably too tight or too loose, pull it up and out of final

Yarn weight:

4

Yarn used: Liberty Wool by Classic Elite

Spend: Ascot by Trendsetter Yarns Splurge: Painted Sky by Knitting Fever

DETAILS Gauge 15 sts and 16 rows = 4" (10cm) in patt

MATERIALS • Liberty Wool by Classic Elite, 100% washable wool (122 yds/50g) in the following colors/amounts: 2 skeins color 7895 Aubergine (A) for cowl; 1 skein for hat 1 skein color 7890 Ultra Violet Autumn (B) for cowl; 1 skein for hat • U.S. size I-9 (5.5mm) crochet hook, or size required for gauge • Smaller hook for mock invisible joins and invisible joins (optional) • Yarn needle

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stitch, adjust size of tall loop, and repeat final step of join. A smaller hook may be used if needed to pull tall loop tail through stitches. Unused color is carried up back of work. Hat is worked with RS facing at all times. Crown is worked in spiral rounds; band is worked in joined rounds. Band pattern stitch is worked in back horizontal bars except where indicated. Carry unused color up back of work.

Special abbreviations Mock inv join: After making final st of rnd, move working yarn to WS of work; draw up tall loop (approx ¾"), drop loop from hook; being careful to keep working yarn behind and away from tall loop, insert hook from WS to RS through both top strands of first hdc of round (sk sc), gently draw tall loop through, drop loop from hook, insert hook bottom to top through all WS horizontal bars and back loop of final hdc (where tall loop originated), draw remainder of tall loop down and through (yarn left on hook becomes working loop; yarn is now positioned to ch 1 and start new rnd). Dropped hdc: Yo, insert hook in both top strands of hdc 3 rows

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below, yo and pull up loop, yo and draw through all loops on hook. Inv join: Cut yarn, leaving 6" tail; gently pull yarn up and out of st, being careful not to tighten st; insert hook from WS to RS through both top strands of indicated st, pull yarn tail through, insert hook from bottom to top of all WS horizontal bars and back loop of final st (where the yarn tail originated), gently pull yarn tail down and through; adjust as necessary to make invisible join match other stitches in size.

Rnds 3 and 4: With B, rep rnd 2. Rnd 5: With A, ch 1, working in back horizontal bars, sc 1 in sc, hdc 3, 1 dropped hdc, sk 1 st, [hdc 4, 1 dropped hdc, sk 1 st] 19 times, mock inv join to first hdc, do not turn. Rnds 6 and 7: Rep rnd 2. Rnds 8 and 9: With B, rep rnd 2. Rnd 10: With A, ch 1, working in back horizontal bars, sc 1 in sc, hdc 2, 1 dropped hdc, sk 1 st, [hdc 4, 1 dropped hdc, sk 1 st] 19 times, hdc 1, mock inv join to first hdc, do not turn. Rnds 11 and 12: Rep rnd 2. Rnds 13 and 14: With B, rep rnd 2.

Visit www.LoveofCrochet.com for a helpful tutorial explaining the mock inv join and the inv join.

COWL

Rnd 15: With A, ch 1, working in back horizontal bars, sc 1 in sc, hdc 1, 1 dropped hdc, sk 1 st, [hdc 4, 1 dropped hdc, sk 1 st] 19 times, hdc 2, mock inv join to first hdc, do not turn.

With A, ch 101.

Rnds 16 and 17: Rep rnd 2.

Rnd 1: Working in back ridges of ch, starting in 2nd ch from hook, sc 1, hdc 99, mock inv join to first hdc (skipping sc), being careful not to twist and keeping working yarn inside ring and behind join; do not turn. (100 sts)

Rnds 18 and 19: With B, rep rnd 2.

Rnd 2: Ch 1, working in back horizontal bars, sc 1 in sc, hdc 1 in each hdc around, mock inv join to first hdc, do not turn.

Rnd 20: With A, ch 1, working in back horizontal bars, sc 1 in sc, 1 dropped hdc, sk 1 st, [hdc 4, 1 dropped hdc, sk 1 st] 19 times, hdc 3, mock inv join to dropped hdc, do not turn. Rnds 21 and 22: Rep rnd 2. Rnds 23 and 24: With B, rep rnd 2.

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Rnd 25: With A, ch 1, working in back horizontal bars, 1 dropped hdc (in top strands of mock inv join 3 rows below), sk 1 st, [hdc 4, 1 dropped hdc, sk 1 st] 19 times, hdc 4, mock inv join to 2nd hdc of rnd, do not turn.

Work even for 8 rnds or until hat measures 6" from center to edge.

Rnd 26: Rep rnd 2.

Rnd 1: Ch 1; working in back horizontal bars, sc 1 in hdc below mock inv join, hdc 79, mock inv join to first hdc of rnd, being careful to keep working yarn inside ring and behind join; do not turn. (80 sts)

Rnd 27: Ch 1, working in back horizontal bars, sl st in each st around, inv join to 2nd sl st of rnd. Fasten off.

FINISHING Weave in ends. Block.

HAT Crown With A, ch 4, insert hook through back loop and back ridge of first ch st, join with sc to form ring, being careful not to twist ch.

Band Sc 1 in next st, sk 1 st, mock inv join to next st, do not turn.

Rnd 2: Ch 1; working in back horizontal bars, sc 1 in sc, hdc 1 in each hdc around, mock inv join to first hdc, do not turn. Rnds 3 and 4: With B, rep rnd 2.

Rnds 6 and 7: Rep rnd 2. Rnds 8 and 9: With B, rep rnd 2. Rnd 10: With A, ch 1, working in back horizontal bars, sc 1 in sc, hdc 1 in next st, 1 dropped hdc, sk 1 st, [hdc 4, 1 dropped hdc, sk 1 st] 15 times, hdc 2, mock inv join to first hdc, do not turn. Rnd 11: Rep rnd 2. Rnd 12: Ch 1, working in back horizontal bars, sl st in each st around, inv join to 2nd sl st of rnd. Fasten off.

FINISHING Weave in ends. Block. p

Rnd 5: With A, ch 1, working in back horizontal bars, sc 1 in sc, hdc 2, 1 dropped hdc, sk 1 st, [hdc 4, 1 dropped hdc, sk 1 st] 15 times, hdc 1, mock inv join to first hdc, do not turn.

Rnd 1: Working in blo and back ridges around, hdc 1 in same st; 2 hdc in next 3 sts, pm to indicate final st of rnd, do not turn. (8 sts) Rnd 2: 2 hdc in each st around. (16 sts) Rnd 3: [2 hdc in next st, hdc 1 in next st] 8 times. (24 sts) Rnd 4: [2 hdc in next st, hdc 2] 8 times. (32 sts) Rnd 5: [2 hdc in next st, hdc 3] 8 times. (40 sts) Rnd 6: [2 hdc in next st, hdc 4] 8 times. (48 sts) Rnd 7: [2 hdc in next st, hdc 5] 8 times. (56 sts) Rnd 8: [2 hdc in next st, hdc 6] 8 times. (64 sts) Rnd 9: [2 hdc in next st, hdc 7] 8 times. (72 sts) Rnd 10: [2 hdc in next st, hdc 8] 8 times. (80 sts)

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Beginner’s

Guide

Use the Tunisian entrelac technique on the Autumn Entrelac shawl on page 34.

Tunisian Entrelac By Sheryl Thies The appearance of entrelac, with rows and rows of interconnected squares and triangles, is captivating. Once you understand the basic construction, you’ll find the process of working entrelac just as fascinating. Although at first glance the directions may seem lengthy, take a closer look and you will see a lot of repetition in the steps. The construction consists of tiers, starting with a base tier of triangles. Individual triangles and squares, with a maximum of only 8 stitches on the hook, are repeated across a tier in a join-as-you-go method. The second tier consists of a right edge triangle, square(s), and a left edge triangle. Only squares are required for the third tier. Tiers 2 and 3 are repeated, ending with tier 2, until the desired length is achieved. Then the end triangles are worked.

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Love of Crochet | Fall 2014

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Before you pick up your hook to try Tunisian entrelac, there are a few technical points that you need to understand. • For best results and a smooth edge, use a hook several sizes larger for the initial chain. • Because entrelac works a small

To begin, using a hook 2 sizes larger than the Tunisian hook, ch 13. Change to a hook appropriate for your yarn. If in doubt, try a size M-13 (9mm) for the chain and L-11 (8mm) for the Tunisian with worsted weight yarn.

Tier 1 (base triangles) Row 1: Insert hook in second ch from hook, yo and pull up a loop. (2 loops on hook) Work return pass: *Yo, draw though 2 loops; rep from * across. Row 2: M1, Tss, insert hook in next chain and pull up a loop. (4 loops on hook) Work return pass.

number of stitches at a time, either

Row 3: Tss in each of next 2 vertical bars, M1. Insert hook in next chain and pull up a loop. (5 loops on hook)

a Tunisian crochet hook or regular

Work return pass.

crochet hook without a thumb grip

Row 4: Tss in each of next 3 vertical bars, M1. Insert hook in next chain and pull up a loop. (6 loops on hook)

can be used.

Work return pass. • All stitches are worked in Tunisian simple stitch (Tss); however, the

Row 5: Tss in each of next 4 vertical bars, M1. Insert hook in next chain and pull up a loop. (7 loops on hook)

return pass is worked differently

Work return pass.

from the standard return pass. The

Row 6: Tss in each of next 5 vertical bars, M1. Insert hook in next chain and pull up a loop. (8 loops on hook)

return pass is worked: *Yo, pull through 2 loops on hook; rep from * throughout the entire piece. • The increase, M1, is worked in the space just to the left of the stitch

Work return pass. Row 7: Sc BO 6 sts, sl st in same ch as last st (for last triangle sl st in last ch). (One triangle completed) Repeat rows 1 through 7 for additional triangles. Fasten off stitch and cut yarn when all triangles have been completed.

efore the next on the hook but before stitch. oops, insert the • When picking up loops, hook through both loops of the previous work. d is a multiple of • The pattern we used 6 plus 1.

Tier 1 (base triangles) completed

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Beginner’s Tier 2 (right edge triangle, square(s), and left edge triangle) Join yarn in bottom corner of first base triangle (for subsequent tiers join in last edge st of previous triangle).

Guide completed, there will be 6 rows of vertical bars visible. Row 7: Sc BO 6 sts, sl st in next st from last tier. (1 loop on hook) Rep rows 1–7 to make each square. Continue with left triangle.

Work return pass. Row 2: M1, Tss in next vertical bar and in edge of 2nd row of last tier. (4 loops on hook) Work return pass.

Row 3: Tss in next 5 vertical bars. (6 loops on hook) Work return pass. Row 4: Tss in next 4 vertical bars. (5 loops on hook) Work return pass.

Right edge triangle Row 1: Ch 2, pull up a loop, insert hook in second ch from hook and pull up a loop in same stitch as join. (3 loops on hook)

Work return pass.

Left edge triangle Row 1: Pick up 6 loops across bound off edge on left side of last tier and in last st of base triangle (or subsequent square). (8 loops on hook) Work return pass. Row 2: Tss in next 6 vertical bars. (7 loops on hook)

Row 5: Tss in next 3 vertical bars. (4 loops on hook) Work return pass. Row 6: Tss in next 2 vertical bars. (3 loops on hook) Work return pass. Row 7: Sc BO 1 st. (1 loop on hook) Fasten off stitch and cut yarn.

Row 3: M1, Tss in next 3 vertical bars and in edge of 3rd row of last tier. (5 loops on hook) Work return pass. Row 4: M1, Tss in next 4 vertical bars and in edge of 4th row of last tier. (6 loops on hook) Work return pass. Row 5: M1, Tss in next 5 vertical bars and in edge of 5th row of last tier. (7 loops on hook) Work return pass. Row 6: M1, Tss in next 6 vertica vertical bars 8 and in edge of 6th row off last tier. (8 loops on hook)

Tier 2 (triangle, square, and triangle) completed

Work return pass. Row 7: Sc BO 6 sts, sl st in next st from last tier. (1 loop on hook) Continue with square.

Square Row 1: Pick up 6 sts across cross bound off edge in last tier and d in first st of quent square) next triangle (or subsequent in last tier. (8 loops on hook) Work return pass. Rows 2–6: Tss in nextt 6 vertical bars ge of last tier’s across row and in edge next row. ter row 6 is Work return pass. After

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Tier 3 (squares completed)

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Tier 3 (squares) Join yarn in first stitch of previous tier. Work squares following directions for squares under tier 2. Repeat tiers 2 and 3 until desired length, ending with tier 2.

Tier 4 (end triangles) Join yarn in first stitch of last tier. Row 1: Pick up 6 sts across bound off row of last tier and in first st of next square. (8 loops on hook) Work return pass. Row 2: Skip next vertical bar, Tss in next 5 vertical bars and in edge of last tier’s 2nd row. (7 loops on hook) Work return pass.

Tier 2 repeated

Row 3: Skip next vertical bar, Tss in next 4 vertical bars and in edge of last tier’s 3rd row. (6 loops on hook) Work return pass. Row 4: Skip next vertical bar, Tss in next 3 vertical bars and in edge of last tier’s 4th row. (5 loops on hook) Work return pass. Row 5: Skip next vertical bar, Tss in next 2 vertical bars and in edge of last tier’s 5th row. (4 loops on hook) Work return pass. Row 6: Skip next vertical bar, Tss in next vertical bar and in edge of last tier’s 6th row. (3 loops on hook) Work return pass. Row 7: Skip next vertical bar and sl st in next st of last tier. (1 loop on hook) Repeat rows 1–7 for remaining triangles. Fasten off and cut yarn when all triangles have been completed. The Autumn Entrelac shawl on the next page is a simple variation of basic entrelac and a great first project.

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Tier 4 (end triangles) completed

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Autumn Entrelac Shawl

Showcase your Tunisian crochet skills with this unique entrelac variation. The side triangles are eliminated to create a classically shaped shawl, and the subtle shading in the yarn highlights the geometric

Skill level: Intermediate Skills used:

beauty of this technique. Keep this stunning piece in place with your favorite shawl pin, or wrap one end over your shoulder for a casual look. Designed by Sheryl Thies

• Single crochet • Tunisian crochet Finished measurements: 63" x 21", excluding trim Yarn weight:

3

Yarn used: Merino Alpaca by Red Barn Yarn

MATERIALS • 4 skeins Merino Alpaca by Red Barn Yarn, 50% merino wool, 50% alpaca (249 yds/125g) in color Autumn Leaves • U.S. size K-10½ (6.5mm) Tunisian crochet hook, or size required for gauge • U.S. size N-13 (9mm) crochet hook • U.S. size J-10 (6mm) crochet hook

DETAILS

Work Tss return pass.

Gauge

Row 3: Tss in each of the next 2 vertical bars, M1. Insert hook in next ch, yo and pull up loop. (5 loops on hook)

15 sts = 4" (10cm) in Tss using Tunisian hook

Special abbreviations Sc BO: *Insert hook from right to left behind front vertical bar, yo and pull up loop, yo and draw through 2 loops on hook; rep from * across. M1: Insert hook in space before next vertical bar, yo and pull up loop.

Work Tss return pass. Row 4: Tss in each of the next 3 vertical bars, M1. Insert hook in next ch, yo and pull up loop. (6 loops on hook) Work Tss return pass. Row 5: Tss in each of the next 4 vertical bars, M1. Insert hook in next ch, yo and pull up loop. (7 loops on hook) Work Tss return pass.

Tss (Tunisian simple stitch) Forward pass: *Insert hook from right to left behind front vertical bar, yo and pull up loop, leave loop on hook; rep from * across row. Return pass: *Yo and draw through 2 loops; rep from * until 1 loop remains.

• Yarn needle

Stitch patterns Yarn alternatives

Tier 1 (base triangles)

Save: Herriot by Juniper Moon

Row 1: Insert hook in 2nd ch from hook, yo and pull up a loop. (2 loops on hook)

Spend: Serena by Manos Del Uruguay Splurge: Alpaca Silk by Blue Sky Alpacas

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Work Tss return pass. Row 2: M1, Tss, insert hook in next ch, yo and pull up loop. (4 loops on hook)

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Designer Note See the helpful how-to article on Tunisian entrelac on page 30.

Row 5: Skip next vertical bar, Tss in next 2 vertical bars and in edge of last tier’s 5th row. (4 loops on hook) Work Tss return pass. Row 6: Skip next vertical bar, Tss in next vertical bar and in edge of last tier’s 6th row. (3 loops on hook) Work Tss return pass. Row 7: Skip next vertical bar and sl st in next st of last tier. (1 loop on hook) Rep rows 1–7 for remaining triangles. Fasten off and cut yarn when all triangles have been completed.

Note

Row 6: Tss in each of the next 5 vertical bars, M1. Insert hook in next ch, yo and pull up loop. (8 loops on hook)

Row 7: Sc BO 6 sts, sl st in next st from last tier. (1 loop on hook) Rep rows 1–7 to make each square.

Work Tss return pass. Row 7: Sc BO 6 sts, sl st in same ch as last st (for last triangle sl st in last ch). One triangle completed. Rep rows 1–7 for a total of 20 triangles. Fasten off.

Tier 2 (squares) Row 1: Pick up 6 sts across bound off edge in last tier and in first st of next triangle (or subsequent square) in last tier. (8 loops on hook) Work Tss return pass. Rows 2–6: Tss in next 6 vertical bars across row and in edge of last tier’s next row. Work Tss return pass. After row 6 is completed, there will be 6 rows of vertical bars visible.

End triangles Join yarn in first stitch of last tier. Row 1: Pick up 6 sts across bound off row of last tier and in first st of next square. (8 loops on hook) Work Tss return pass. Row 2: Skip next vertical bar, Tss in next 5 vertical bars and in edge of last tier’s 2nd row. (7 loops on hook) Work Tss return pass. Row 3: Skip next vertical bar, Tss in next 4 vertical bars and in edge of last tier’s 3rd row. (6 loops on hook) Work Tss return pass. Row 4: Skip next vertical bar, Tss in next 3 vertical bars and in edge of last tier’s 4th row. (5 loops on hook) Work Tss return pass.

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The return pass for this patt is worked differently than a standard return pass. When picking up loops, insert hook through both loops of previous work. After tier of base triangles the shawl is worked in tiers of squares. Each subsequent tier has 1 less square.

SHAWL With largest hook, ch 121. Change to Tunisian hook and work tier 1 of 20 base triangles. Fasten off last st and cut yarn. Join yarn in last row of base triangle and work tier 2 for 19 squares. Rep tier 2, working 1 less square every rep until the last tier of 5 squares is completed. Work 4 end triangles. Do not fasten off.

FINISHING With smallest hook, sc along entire edge, working 2 sc in each corner. Fasten off. Weave in ends. Block. p

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Auckland Set Accessorize your fall wardrobe with this

gorgeous scarf and mitt set, featuring fine yarn and a delightful lattice stitch pattern. The soft blend of fibers will keep you toasty when the wind starts to blow and the leaves begin to change colors. Designed by Nathalie O’Shea

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Skill level: Scarf: Easy Mitts: Intermediate Skills used: • Single crochet • Double crochet Finished measurements: Scarf: 14" wide x 60" long Mitts: 7" circumference x 9¼" long Yarn weight:

1

Yarn used: Kauri Fingering by Zealana imported by The YarnSisters

MATERIALS

Stitch patterns Lattice Row 1 (RS): Skip 2 ch (count as dc), 2 dc in next ch, *skip 3 ch, sc 1 in next ch, ch 3, dc 1 in each of next 3 ch; rep from * to last 4 ch, skip 3 ch, sc 1 in last ch, turn.

• 4 skeins Kauri Fingering by Zealana imported by The YarnSisters, 60% NZ merino, 30% possum, 10% silk (167 yds/40g) in color K02 for scarf, 1 skein for mitts

Row 2: Ch 3 (count as dc), 2 dc in first sc, *skip 3 dc, sc 1 in first ch of ch-3, ch 3, dc 1 in each of next 2 ch, dc 1 in next sc; rep from *, ending skip 2 dc, sc 1 in top of t-ch, turn.

• U.S. size J-10 (6mm) crochet hook

Rep row 2 for patt.

• U.S. size I-9 (5.5mm) crochet hook

Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as dc), dc across, turn. Row 3: Ch 1 (does not count as sc), sc across, turn. Rep rows 2 and 3 until piece measures 30" from ruffle, inc to 68 sts on last row.

Second end section Row 1: Ch 3 (counts as dc), 2 dc in next st, *skip 3 sts, sc 1 in next sc, ch 3, dc 1 in each of next 3 sts; rep from * to last 4 sts, skip 3 sts, sc 1 in last st, turn.

• U.S. size 7 (4.5mm) crochet hook

Picot edge

Rows 2–21: Rep row 2 of lattice patt. Fasten off.

• Stitch markers

*Ch 3. Insert hook in 3rd ch from hook, yo, pull loop through, sc 1 in next st, rep from *

FINISHING

• Yarn needle

Weave in ends. Block.

Yarn alternatives

SCARF

Save: Creamy Flame’ by Kolláge Yarns

MITTS

Spend: Fino by Manos del Uruguay

First end section

Splurge: Katy by Fiesta Yarns

With largest hook, ch 70.

Cuff

Row 1: Work row 1 of lattice patt.

With medium hook, ch 49. Work row 1 of lattice patt, then rep row 2 a total of 4 times. Fasten off. Weave in ends.

DETAILS

Rows 2–21: Work row 2 of lattice patt.

Gauge Scarf: Gauge is not essential for this project. Mitts: 23 sts = 4" (10cm) using medium hook

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Body Row 1: Ch 1, sc 1 in first st, *sc 1 in each dc, sc 1 in ch-3 sp; rep from * to last 3 sts, sc 3, turn. (40 sts)

Hand Fold cuff in half, do not sew seam. With smallest hook, work 40 sc evenly around top of cuff, pm and join.

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Rnd 1: Ch 1, sc 1 in each sc around. (40 sc) Rep last rnd until hand measures 2" from cuff.

Thumb gusset Rnd 1: 2 sc in first sc after marker, sc 1 in each sc to last sc, 2 sc in last sc. (42 sc) Rnd 2: Sc 1 in each sc around. (42 sc)

Next rnd: Sc 1 in first sc, skip next sc, sc 1 in each remaining sc to last 2 sc, skip 1 sc, sc 1 in last sc. Next rnd: Sc 1 in each sc around. c skip next Next rnd: Sc 1 in first sc, sc, sc 1 in each remaining scc to last 2 sc, skip 1 sc, sc 1 in last sc. Next rnd: Sc 1 in each sc around. Fasten off.

FINISHING

Rnd 3: 2 sc in 2nd sc after marker, sc 1 in each sc to last 2 sc, 2 sc in 2nd before last sc. (44 sc)

Weave in ends. p

Rnd 4: Sc 1 in each sc to 4 sc before marker, ch 10, pm in 5th ch (beg of rnd for thumb later).

Auckland Set 9 8

Rnd 6: Sc 1 in first sc, skip next sc, sc 1 in each sc to last 2 sc, skip 1 sc, sc 1 in last sc.

7

Body

Rnd 5: Skip first 4 sc, join ch in 5th sc, sc 1 in each sc and ch around.

6

Work rest of hand in sc for 1", then dec 2 sts evenly around.

Thumb Join yarn at marker and sc 1 in each st around thumb opening for 4 rnds.

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4 3

Lattice

Work in sc for 1" more, then dec 2 sts evenly around again. Work picot edge, fasten off.

5

2 1

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Web

BBuockneut Bsa!g

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Build Your Own Bag Unleash your inner designer by making your very own, one-of-a-kind purse. Choose either the tote or carpet bag, then select from a variety of fun appliqués to personalize your project. Get the bucket bag pattern online as a free web bonus and let your imagination run wild as you show off your creativity. Designed by Ashley Briggs

Yarn alternatives

Skill level: Easy

Save: Seedling by Classic Elite Yarns Verde Collection Spend: Riveting Sport by Kolláge Yarns

Skills used: • Single crochet • Half double crochet • Double crochet

DETAILS

• Treble crochet

Gauge

• Bobbles

14 sts and 11 rows = 4" (10cm) in hdc

Finished measurements: Square tote: 12" x 13" Carpet bag: 15" x 10" Yarn weight:

Splurge: Denim Cotton by Lang

4

Yarn used: Cotton-Ease by Lion Brand Yarns

Special abbreviation Bobble: [Yo, insert hook in st, yo and pull up a loop, yo and draw through 2 loops] 5 times, yo and draw through all loops on hook.

Square tote MATERIALS • 2 skeins Cotton-Ease by Lion Brand Yarns, 50% cotton, 50% acrylic (207 yds/100g) in color Stone (MC1) for square tote or Taupe (MC2) for carpet bag • 1 skein in each of colors Cherry, Violet, Plum, Terracotta, and Cactus • U.S. size H-8 (5mm) crochet hook, or size required for gauge • Stitch markers • Yarn needle • Lining fabric • Sewing needle and thread • Purse handles

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Front and back (make 2) With MC1, ch 4, join with sl st to form a ring. Rnd 1: Ch 2, 11 hdc in ring, join. (12 sts) Rnd 2: Ch 2, hdc 1 in next 2 sts, *ch 3, hdc 3; rep from * around, join. (12 sts) Rnd 3: Ch 2, *hdc 1 in each st across, [2 hdc, ch 2, 2 hdc] in ch-3 sp; rep from * around, hdc 1 in remaining sts, join. (28 sts) Rnd 4: Ch 2, *hdc 1 in each st across, [1 hdc, ch 2, 1 hdc] in ch-2 sp; rep from * around, hdc 1 in remaining sts, join. (36 sts) Rnd 5: Ch 2, *hdc 1 in each st across, [1 hdc, ch 2, 1 hdc] in ch-2 sp; rep from * around, hdc 1 in remaining sts, join. (44 sts)

Rnd 6: Ch 2, *hdc 1 in each st across, [1 hdc, ch 2, 1 hdc] in ch-2 sp; rep from * around, hdc 1 in remaining sts, join. (52 sts) Rnd 7: Ch 2, *hdc 1 in each st across, [1 hdc, ch 2, 1 hdc] in ch-2 sp; rep from * around, hdc 1 in remaining sts, join. (60 sts) Rnd 8: Ch 2, *hdc 1 in each st across, [1 hdc, ch 2, 1 hdc] in ch-2 sp; rep from * around, hdc 1 in remaining sts, join. (68 sts) Rnd 9: Ch 2, *hdc 1 in each st across, [1 hdc, ch 2, 1 hdc] in ch-2 sp; rep from * around, hdc 1 in remaining sts, join. (76 sts) Rnd 10: Ch 2, *hdc 1 in each st across, [1 hdc, ch 2, 1 hdc] in ch-2 sp; rep from * around, hdc 1 in remaining sts, join. (84 sts) Rnd 11: Ch 2, *hdc 1 in each st across, [1 hdc, ch 2, 1 hdc] in ch-2 sp; rep from * around, hdc 1 in remaining sts, join. (92 sts) Rnd 12: Ch 2, *hdc 1 in each st across, [1 hdc, ch 2, 1 hdc] in ch-2 sp; rep from * around, hdc 1 in remaining sts, join. (100 sts) Rnd 13: Ch 2, *hdc 1 in each st across, [1 hdc, ch 2, 1 hdc] in ch-2 sp; rep from * around, hdc 1 in remaining sts, join. (108 sts) Rnd 14: Ch 2, *hdc 1 in each st across, [1 hdc, ch 2, 1 hdc] in ch-2 sp; rep from * around, hdc 1 in remaining sts, join. (116 sts) Rnd 15: Ch 2, *hdc 1 in each st across, [1 hdc, ch 2, 1 hdc] in ch-2 sp; rep from * around, hdc 1 in remaining sts, join. (124 sts)

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Sides (make 2) Si Ch 42. Ro Row 1: Hdc in 2nd ch from hook an and in each st across, turn. Ro Rows 2–6: Ch 2, hdc 1 in each st ac across. Fasten off.

Row 1: Sc 1 in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. (34 sts)

Assembly A

Row 2: Ch 2, dc in next st, bobble in next st, *dc 1 in next st, bobble in next st; rep from * across, turn.

Jo front, back, sides, and bottom Join w with sl st.

Lining L Note: Use ½" seam allowances. N Rnd 16: Ch 2, *hdc 1 in each st across, [1 hdc, ch 2, 1 hdc] in ch-2 sp; rep from * around, hdc 1 in remaining sts, join. (132 sts) Rnd 17: Ch 2, hdc 1 in each st across, [1 hdc, ch 2, 1 hdc] in ch-2 sp, hdc 1 in each st across, hdc in ch-2 sp. Row 18: Ch 2, turn, hdc 1 in each st across, turn. (33 sts) Rows 19–21: Ch 2, hdc 1 in each st across. (33 sts) Rnd 22: Ch 2 (do not turn), working along the side of the previous 4 rows, hdc 6, hdc 1 in each st across, [1 hdc, ch 2, 1 hdc] in ch-2 sp, hdc 1 in each st across, [1 hdc, ch 2, 1 hdc] in ch-2 sp, hdc 1 in remaining sts, join. Fasten off.

BOTTOM With MC1, ch 34. Row 1: Hdc in 2nd ch from hook and in each st across, turn.

From the lining fabric, cut two 11" x 13" rectangles for front and back, two 3" x 13" rectangles for sides and one 3" x 11" rectangle for bottom. With right sides together, align one bottom rectangle long edge with the front lower edge, stitch in place, beginning and ending ½" from the fabric edge. Rep to join bottom to back lower edge. With right sides together, align sides with front, back, and bottom, stitch in place. Insert lining in bag. Along the bag lining upper edge, fold the fabric ½" toward the wrong side, pin in place and then stitch.

Bobble strip With desired color, ch 35.

Row 3: Ch 1, sc 3, sc2tog, *sc 2, sc2tog; rep from * across. Fasten off.

Square motif With desired color, ch 6, join with sl st to form a ring. Rnd 1: Ch 3, tr 2, ch 3, [tr 3, ch 3] 3 times, join with sl st in top of first ch-3. Rnd 2: Ch 3, tr 4, ch 3, tr 7, [ch 3, tr 7] 3 times, join with sl st in top of first ch-3. Rnd 3: Ch 1, *sc 1 in each st across, [2 sc, ch 2, 2 sc] in ch-3 sp; rep from * around, sc 1 in remaining sts, join with sl st in first st. Rnd 4: Ch 3, *tr 1 in each st across, [1 tr, ch 3, 1 tr] in ch-2 sp; rep from * around, tr 1 in remaining sts, join with sl st in first ch-3. Rnd 5: Ch 1, *sc 1 in each st across, [2 sc, ch 2, 2 sc] in ch-3 sp; rep from * around, sc 1 in remaining sts, join with sl st in first st. Rnd 6: Sl st in next st, [sl st, ch 2, sl st] in next st (picot formed), [sl st in next st, picot in next st] 3 times. *Sl st 2, picot in ch-2 sp, sl st 2, picot in next st, sl st in next st; rep from * around. Fasten off.

Rows 2–8: Ch 2, hdc in each st across. Fasten off.

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Circle motif With desired color, ch 10, join with sl st to form a ring. Rnd 1: Ch 2, 23 dc in ring. (24 sts) Rnd 2: Ch 5, skip next 2 sts, sc 1 in next st, *ch 4, skip next 2 sts, sc 1 in next st; rep from * around, join with sl st in beg ch.

Carpet bag

Rows 2–23: Ch 2, hdc 1 in each st across, turn.

Front and back

Row 24: Skip first st, hdc 11, turn. (11 sts)

Rnd 3: Sl st in ch-4 sp, [ch 3, 1 dc, ch 2, 2 dc] in ch-sp, *[2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc] in next ch-sp; rep from * around, join.

With MC2, ch 51.

Row 25: Skip first st, hdc 9, turn. (9 sts)

Row 1: Hdc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, turn. (50 sts)

Row 26: Skip first st, hdc 7, turn. (7 sts)

Rnd 4: Sl st in next dc, sl st in next ch-2 sp, *7 dc in next ch-2 sp, sl st in next ch-2 sp; rep from * around, join.

Rows 2–4: Ch 2, hdc 1 in each st across, turn.

Rnd 5: Sl st in first 3 sts, ch 3, sl st in first ch, *sl st 7, ch 3, sl st in first ch; rep from * around, join. Fasten off.

Row 5: Ch 1, sc 1 in blo of each st across, turn.

Fasten off.

Tab With MC2, ch 11.

Row 6: Ch 3, tr 1 in each st across, turn.

Row 1: Hdc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, turn. (10 sts)

Small flower

Row 7: Ch 1, sc 1 in blo of each st across, turn.

Rows 2–15: Ch 2, hdc 1 in each st across. Fasten off.

With desired color, ch 2.

Rows 8–11: Ch 2, hdc 1 in each st across, turn.

Assembly

Rnd 1: 5 sc in 2nd ch from hook.

Row 12: Ch 1, sc 1 in front loop of each st across, turn.

Rnd 2: [Sl st, ch 3, sl st] in each sc around, join.

Row 13: Ch 3, tr 1 in each st across, turn.

Rnd 3: [1 sc, 1 hdc, 1 dc, 1 hdc, 1 sc] in each ch-3 sp, join. Fasten off.

Row 14: Ch 1, sc 1 in front loop of each st across, turn. Rows 15–56: Rep rows 1–14 three times.

FINISHING

Rows 57–60: Ch 2, hdc 1 in each st across.

Apply decorative embellishments as desired.

Fasten off.

Sew handles in place. Weave in ends.

Sides (make 2) With MC2, ch 14. Row 1: Ch 2 (counts as hdc here and throughout), hdc 12, turn. (13 sts)

Fold front and back piece in half and place marker at center. With right sides together, align the front and back center bottom with one side center bottom, slip stitch in place. Rep with other side. On either front or back, align the tab in the center four rows down. Slip stitch in place.

Lining Note: Use ½" seam allowances. From the lining fabric, cut one 4" x 7" rectangle for the tab, two 4" x 10½" rectangles for the sides and


one 16" x 23" rectangle for the front and back. With the tab lining fabric, fold fabric ½" toward the wrong side on all sides, press. Align tab lining over tab wrong side, stitch in place.

Heart With desired color, ch 3, [3 tr, 3 dc, ch 1, 1 tr, ch 1, 3 dc, 3 tr, ch 3, sl st] in 3rd ch from hook. Fasten off.

Small flower

Fold the front and back lining rectangle in half, mark center. With right sides together, align the side center bottom with the marked front and back center, pin in place and then stitch. Rep with remaining side.

With desired color, ch 4, join with sl st to form a ring. Rnd 1: 10 sc in ring, join with sl st.

Leaf 1 With desired color, ch 14, hdc in 2nd ch from hook, hdc 1 in next ch, dc 1 in next 2 ch, tr 1 in next 3 ch, dc 1 in next 2 ch, hdc 1 in next 2 ch, sc 1 in next ch; 3 sl st in last ch. Working on the opposite side of ch, sc 1 in next ch, hdc 1 in next 2 ch, dc in next 2 ch, tr 1 in next 3 ch, dc 1 in next 2 ch, hdc 1 in next 2 ch, sl st. Fasten off.

Leaf 2

Insert lining in bag. Along the bag lining upper edge, fold the fabric ½" toward the wrong side, pin in place and then stitch.

Rnd 2: Sc 1 in first st, *ch 3, skip next sc, sc 1 in next st; rep from * around, join. (5 ch-3 sps)

Petal decorative strip

Rnd 3: [1 sc, 1 hdc, 1 dc, 1 tr, ch 2, sl st in first ch, 1 tr, 1 dc, 1 hdc, sc] in each ch-3 sp, join.

Rnd 1: Ch 2, 11 dc in ring, join with sl st. (12 sts)

With desired color, ch 53.

Fasten off.

Rnd 2: Ch 6, sl st in 3rd ch from hook, dc 1 in same st, 2 dc in next 2 sts, [1 dc, ch 5, sl st in 2nd ch from hook, sl st in next 3 ch, 1 dc] in next st, 2 dc in next 2 sts, [1 dc, ch 3, 1 sl st in 2nd ch, 1 dc] in next st, [1 sc, 1 hdc] in next st, [1 sc, ch 3, sl st in 2nd ch, sc] in next st, [1 hdc, 1 dc, 1 tr, ch 3, sl st in 2nd ch, 1 tr, 1 dc, 1 hdc] in next st, [1 sc, ch 3, sl st in 2nd ch, 1 sc] in next st, [1 hdc, 1 sc] in next st, join.

Row 1: Sc 1 in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, turn. (52 sts) Row 2: Ch 1, sc 1 in first st, *ch 3, skip next 2 sts, sc 1 in next st; rep from * across, turn. Row 3: Ch 1, sc 1 in first st, [1 sc, 1 hdc, 1 dc, 1 tr, ch 2, sl st in first ch, 1 tr, 1 dc, 1 hdc, 1 sc] in ch-3 sp, sc 1 in last st. Fasten off.

Bobble decorative strip Ch 52. Row 1: Hdc 1 in 2nd ch, hdc 1 in each st across, turn. (51 sts) Row 2: Ch 1, sc 1, *ch 3, bobble in 3rd ch, ch 2, skip next st, sc 1 in next st; rep from * across. Fasten off.

Large flower With desired color, ch 4, join with sl st to form a ring. Rnd 1: 5 sc in ring, join with sl st. Rnd 2: Ch 2, hdc 1 in same st, 2 hdc in each st around, join. Rnd 3: Sc 1 in first st, *ch 4, skip next st, sc 1 in next st; rep from * around, join. (5 ch-4 sps) Rnd 4: [2 sc, 1 hdc, 1 dc, 2 tr, ch 2, sl st in first ch, 2 tr, 1 dc, 1 hdc, 2 sc] in each ch-4 sp, join. Fasten off.

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Love of Crochet | Fall 2014

With desired color, ch 4, join with sl st to form a ring.

Fasten off.

FINISHING Apply decorative embellishments as desired. Sew handles in place. Weave in ends. p

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Crochet Corner

Fabulous finds and fun products just for you!

By Jamie Taylor

Fold-n-Stow Bookholder By Mighty Bright Prop up your pattern with this holder, and you’ll be able to crochet for hours on end without straining your neck or back. The patented design folds flat so you can take it anywhere. When you’re ready to work on your project, simply choose the degree of slope you prefer, place your book or magazine on the rack, and you’re ready to crochet. Because your pattern is no longer laying horizontally on your crafting space, each row will be easier to read and you’ll have extra space for your yarn and notions. Retail price: $7.99; www.mightybright.com

Removable Crochet Stitch Markers By Knit Girl in Idaho Make a statement with these cute stitch markers! Whether you’re a proud yarn snob or crochet girl, you’re sure to find a quote or design that speaks to you. The lobster clasps allow you to fasten the charms onto your project and easily move them when you need to. Both fun and functional, these markers will be a crafty treat for your works-in-progress. Retail price: $3.25 each; www.etsy.com/shop/KnitGirlinIdaho

Pattern Chart Marker Set By Clover These handy tools will help you keep your place as you work from either written patterns or charts. The magnetic strips stay put on the page until you’re ready to slide them to the next row, and the clever tabs on the ends act as bookmarks so you’ll always flip directly to the page you need. In two convenient sizes, these pattern markers will work with all of your crochet resources. Retail price: $15.95; www.crochetandknitshop.com

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Silver Swing Jacket A relaxed fit and draping collar create an exceptionally comfortable Skill level: Easy

sweater you can wear every day. Whether you’re at the office or

Skills used:

curled up on the couch at home, this piece will keep you warm

• Single crochet

and stylish. Simple stitches and easy shaping make it a fun and satisfying project for any crocheter.

• Double crochet • Treble crochet

Designed by Lisa Gentry

Sizes: Women’s Small (Medium, Large, Extra Large, 2X)

Special abbreviations Dc-V-St: 2 dc in indicated sp.

Finished measurements: Bust: 32-34 (36-38, 40-42, 4446, 48-50)" Length: 31½ (31½, 32, 32, 32½)" Yarn weight:

1

Yarn used: Charlemont by Valley Yarns

MATERIALS • 6 (6, 6, 7, 7) skeins Charlemont by Valley Yarns, 60% fine superwash merino, 20% mulberry silk, 20% polyamide (439 yds/100g) in color 34060 Light Grey

Tr-V-St: 2 tr in indicated sp.

Row 7: Ch 4, tr 1 in next dc, tr-V-St in each dc-V-St to last 2 sts, tr 2. Rows 8 and 9: Rep rows 6 and 7. Row 10: Rep row 6.

Stitch pattern

Rep rows 1–10 for patt.

Rows 1 and 2: Ch 3 (counts as first dc here and throughout), dc 1 in each st across.

JACKET

Row 3 (RS): Ch 5 (counts as first tr here and throughout), tr 1 in each st across.

Note: Worked in one piece to underarm.

Fronts and back

Rows 4 and 5: Rep rows 1 and 2.

Ch 265 (277, 289, 301, 313).

Row 6: Ch 3, dc 1 in next dc, skip 1 dc, *dc-V-St in next dc, skip 1 dc; rep from * to last 2 dc, dc 2.

Row 1 (RS): Sc 1 in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across row. (264 [276, 288, 300, 312] sts) Work in stitch patt until piece measures 16", ending with a WS row. Do not fasten off.

• U.S. size F-5 (3.75mm) crochet hook, or size required for gauge • Stitch markers • Yarn needle

Yarn alternatives Save: Smooshy by Dream in Color Spend: Tough Love Sock by SweetGeorgia Splurge: Baby Boom by Fiesta Yarns

DETAILS Gauge 22 sts and 10 rows = 4" (10cm) in patt

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Right ffront Shape armhole Continue in patt over 88 (89, 90, 91, 92) sts, pm in 7th (9th, 11th, 13th, 15th) st after last st (for beg of back). Work even in patt until armhole measures 6¾ (7, 7¼, 7½, 8)". Fasten off. (88 [89, 90, 91, 92] sts)

Do not ffasten off. ff Continue with collar.

Collar Continue over all front and back sts in patt until collar measures 8½". (252 [260, 268, 276, 284] sts) Fasten off.

Sleeves Back

Ch 39 (41, 43, 45, 47).

Shape armholes

Row 1 (RS): Sc 1 in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. (38 [40, 42, 44, 46] sc)

With RS facing, starting at marked st, work in patt over 76 (82, 88, 94, 100) sts, pm in 7th (9th, 11th, 13th, 15th) st after last st (for beg of left front). (76 [82, 88, 94, 100] sts) Work even until armholes measure same as right front. Fasten off.

Left front Shape armhole With RS facing, starting at marked stitch, work same as right front. (88 [89, 90, 91, 92] sts)

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Continue in patt, and starting on row 5, inc 1 st each end of row on this and every other row until there are 88 (82, 84, 86, 88) sts. Work even in patt until piece measures 17". Fasten off.

FINISHING Set in sleeves, sew sleeve seams. Weave in ends. Block. p

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Silver Swing Jacket

14½ (15, 15¼, 15½, 16)"

Front

17"

Back

7 (7, 7½, 7½, 8)" 8½"

Front

16 (16, 16¼, 16½, 16¾)"

16"

31½ (31½, 32, 32, 32½)"

14 (15, 16, 17, 18)"

7 (7¼, 7½, 8, 8½)"

48 (50, 52, 54, 56)"

10

9

8

7

6

5

4

3

2

1

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Nottingham Cowl Popcorn stitches and plush, chunky yarn provide extra warmth for Skill level: Easy

crisp afternoons of playing in the leaves. This clever design can be

Skills used:

conveniently pulled up and worn as a hood to guard against an

• Double crochet

autumn breeze, and the combination of wool and tencel creates an ideal mixture of luster and coziness.

• Popcorn Finished measurements: 40" circumference x 17" deep Yarn weight:

6

&

4

Yarn used: Peruvia Quick and Lustra by Berroco

Designed by Kristen Stoltzfus

MATERIALS • 4 skeins Peruvia Quick by Berroco, 100% Peruvian Highland wool (103 yds/100g) in color 9168 Tortuga (A)

• 2 skeins Lustra by Berroco, 50% Peruvian Highland wool, 50% Tencel/Lyocell (197 yds/100g) in color 3185 Chateau (B) • U.S. size H-8 (5mm) crochet hook, or size required for gauge • U.S. size K-10½ (6.5mm) crochet hook, or size required for gauge • Yarn needle

Yarn alternatives Save: Natalia by S.Charles Collezione Spend: Tolten by Araucania Splurge: Kathmandu Chunky Tweed by Queensland Collection

DETAILS Gauge 6 rows = 4" (10cm) in dc using larger hook and A 6 rows = 3" (8cm) in dc using smaller hook and B

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Special abbreviation PC (popcorn): 4 dc in same st, enlarge loop of last st, remove hook, insert hook through first dc, draw loop through and draw tight.

Note Join each rnd with a sl st in first dc unless otherwise stated.

COWL With larger hook and A, ch 114, join with sl st in first ch to form a ring, being careful not to twist.

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Rnd 1: Ch 1, dc 1 in each st around; join. (114 dc) Rnds 2 and 3: Ch 1, [dc 1 in dc, skip next dc, dc 1 in next dc, reaching behind last dc, dc 1 in skipped dc (crossed dc made)] around; join. (38 dc, 38 crossed dc)

Rnd 8: Join A in any st, with larger hook, ch 1, dc 1 in each st around; join. Rnds 9–12: Rep rnd 2. Rnd 13: Rep rnd 1. Rnds 14–16: Rep rnds 5–7.

Rnd 4: Rep rnd 1; fasten off A.

Rnds 17–25: Rep rnds 8–16.

Rnd 5: With smaller hook and B, join in any dc, ch 1, [dc 1 in dc, PC in next dc] around; join. (57 popcorns, 57 dc)

Rnds 26–28: Rep rnds 8–10.

Rnds 6 and 7: Sl st in PC, ch 1, [dc 1 in PC, PC in next dc] around; join. Fasten off B at end of last rnd.

Rnd 29: Rep rnd 1. Fasten off.

FINISHING Weave in ends. Block. p

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Nottingham Cowl 8

7

6

5

4

3

2

1

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Sequoia Vest Wear this casual vest on your next weekend adventure. Whether Skill level: Easy

you’re taking a trip or running errands, the plush texture is sure to

Skills used:

keep you toasty when there’s a chill in the air. Simple post stitches

• Single crochet

worked in bulky yarn will allow you to finish this piece in no time.

• Reverse single crochet

Designed by Melissa Leapman

• Double crochet • Post stitches

MATERIALS

Sizes: Women’s Small (Medium, Large, Extra Large, 2X)

• 8 (9, 9, 10, 10) skeins Jewel by Cascade Yarns, 100% Peruvian Highland wool (142 yds/100g) in color 9889

Finished measurements: Bust: 35 (40, 45, 50, 54½)", zipped Length: 25" Yarn weight:

5

Yarn used: Jewel by Cascade Yarns

• U.S. size K-10½ (6.5mm) crochet hook, or size required for gauge • U.S. size J-10 (6mm) crochet hook • Yarn needle • 22" separating zipper

Yarn alternatives Save: Sandstone by Queensland Collection Spend: Jackson by Tahki Splurge: Phases Chunky by Stylecraft

DETAILS Gauge 13 sts and 8 rows = 4" (10cm) in textured patt using larger hook

Special abbreviation FPdc (front post double crochet): Yo, insert hook from front of work to back, then to front again around post of st in row below, yo and and pull up a loop around post of st (3 loops on hook), [yo and draw through 2 loops] twice to complete dc.

Stitch patterns Textured Foundation row (RS): Dc in 4th ch from hook and in each ch across, turn. Row 1 (WS): Ch 3 (counts as first dc), *FPdc in next 3 dc, dc 1 in next dc; rep from * across, ending with FPdc in next 3 dc, dc 1 in top of t-ch, turn.

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Work even in textured patt until piece measures 17 (16½, 16½, 16, 16)" from beg, ending with a WS row. Do not ch 3. Turn. (29 [33, 37, 41, 45] sts)

Shape armhole Sl st in first 9 (9, 13, 13, 17) sts, ch 3, work in patt to end. Ch 3, turn. Work even in patt on 21 (25, 25, 29, 29) sts until piece measures 22" from beg, ending with a RS row. Do not ch 3. Turn.

Shape neck Next row (WS): Sl st in first 7 sts, ch 3, work in patt to end. Ch 3, turn.

Row 2: Ch 3 3, *d *dc 1 in next 3 sts, FPdc in next st; rep from * across, ending with dc 1 in next 3 sts, dc 1 in top of ch-3, turn. Rep rows 1 and 2 for patt.

Work even in textured patt until piece measures 17 (16½, 16½, 16, 16)" from beg, ending with a RS row. Do not ch 3. Turn. (57 [65, 73, 81, 89] sts)

Next row: Work in patt to last 3 sts. Ch 3, turn, leaving rest of row unworked. Dec 1 st at neck edge every row twice. (10 [14, 14, 18, 18] sts) Work even until piece measures same as back to shoulders. Fasten off.

Sideways rib

Shape armholes

Foundation row: Ch 1, sc 1 in

Sl st in first 9 (9, 13, 13, 17) sts, ch 3, work in patt to last 8 (8, 12, 12, 16) sts. Ch 3, turn, leaving rest of row unworked.

Right front

Work even in patt on 41 (49, 49, 57, 57) sts until piece measures 25" from beg, ending with a WS row.

FINISHING

2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, turn. Row 1: Ch 1, sc 1 in blo of each sc across, turn. Rep row 1 for patt.

Work as for left front, reversing all shaping.

Sew shoulder seams.

Fasten off.

VEST Back With larger hook, ch 59 (67, 75, 83, 91).

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Neckband Left front With larger hook, ch 31 (35, 39, 43, 47).

With smaller hook and RS facing, join yarn with a sl st to left front neck edge, ch 1, and work 60 sc evenly around neckline. Fasten off.

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Ribbing With smaller hook, ch 14. Work in sideways rib patt until piece, when slightly stretched, fits around neckline. (13 sc each row) Fasten off. Fold ribbing in half widthwise and sew in place. Sewing through back loops of each sc, sew ribbing in place along neckline.

Zipper facing

Fasten off. Rep along right front edge. Back

Armhole bands With smaller hook and RS facing, join yarn with sl st to armhole, ch 1. Work 1 row of sc evenly spaced along armhole edge. Ch 1. Next row: Work in rev sc. Fasten off.

17½ (20, 22½, 25, 27¼)"

Sew side seams. Sew zipper in place. Weave in ends. Block. p

Front

17 (16½, 16½, 16, 16)"

Next row: Ch 1, work in rev sc.

6½"

8 (8½, 8½, 9, 9)"

6½"

8 (8½, 8½, 9, 9)"

Sequoia Vest

17 (16½, 16½, 16, 16)"

With smaller hook and RS facing, join yarn with a sl st to lower left front edge, ch 1. Work 1 row of sc along left front edge, including side of neckband, turn.

9 (10, 11¼, 12½, 14)"

2

1 Foundation row

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Teensy Turtle Welcome your tiny tot into the world with this darling set. The Skill level: Intermediate

delightfully realistic shell pattern is composed of hexagons, large

Skills used:

and small, and the dynamic, textured look is accomplished with

• Single crochet

a series of spike stitches. The hat and blanket will keep your

• Half double crochet • Double crochet

adorable photo opportunities. Designed by Deborah Bagley for Yarnovations.com

• Spike stitches Finished measurements: Hat: 13" circumference Diaper cover: 10½" long x 10¾" wide, open Cape: 8" wide x 8" long Blanket: 30" wide x 36" long Yarn weight:

little one warm, while the cape and diaper cover make for some

4

Yarn used: Vanna’s Choice by Lion Brand

MATERIALS • 3 skeins Vanna’s Choice by Lion Brand, 100% acrylic (170 yds/100g) in each of colors Fern (A), Kelly Green (B), Chocolate (C)

13 hdc and 11 rows = 4" (10cm) using larger hook

Dc spike st: Yo, insert hook in stitch one row below, yo and pull up a loop to working level, [yo and draw through 2 loops on hook] twice to complete dc.

Special abbreviations

HAT

DETAILS Gauge

Sc spike st: Insert hook in stitch one row below, yo and pull up a loop to working level, yo and draw through both loops on hook. nsert hook in Hdc spike st: Yo, insert ow, yo and pull up stitch one row below, g level, yo and draw a loop to working through all loopss on hook.

With larger hook and A, ch 2. Rnd 1: 7 hdc in 2nd ch from hook. (7 sts) Rnd 2: [2 hdc] in each st around. (14 sts)

• U.S. size J-10 (6mm) crochet hook, or size required for gauge • U.S size E-4 (3.5mm) crochet hook • 1" buttons, 2 total • Yarn needle • Sewing needle and thread

Yarn alternatives Save: Super Saver by Red Heart Spend: Vanna’s Choice by Lion Brand Splurge: Merino 8 by Trendsetter Yarn

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row, sc across, make an extra sc in the last row. Join with first st. (120 sts) Join B to joining st of rnd 33. Row 34: Ch 1, do not count as a st. Hdc in first st, dc spike st, [hdc 1, dc st 1] across, make an extra hdc in last st. (35 sts) Row 35: Turn, sc across. Fasten off. Cut yarn. Join C to last st made in row 35. Row 36: Turn, sc 1, [sc spike st 1, sc 1] across. Fasten off. Cut yarn. This is the RS.

Rnd 3: *Hdc 1, 2 hdc in next st; rep from * around. (21 sts) Rnd 4: *Hdc 2, 2 hdc in next st; rep from * around. (28 sts) Rnd 5: *Hdc 3, 2 hdc in next st; rep from * around. (35 sts)

DIAPER COVER With larger hook and A, ch 17. Row 1: Sc 1 in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across, turn. (16 sts) Rows 2–5: Ch 1, sc 16, turn.

Rnd 6: *Hdc 6, 2 hdc in next st; rep from * around. (40 sts)

Rnd 6: Sc2tog, sc 12, sc2tog, turn. (14 sts)

Rnds 7–10: Hdc around.

Rnd 7: Sc2tog, sc 10, sc2tog, turn. (12 sts)

Rnd 11: Hdc 38, sc 1, sl st in next st. Fasten off. Cut yarn. Join B in any st. Rnd 12: [Hdc 1, hdc spike st 1] around. Join with a sl st. Rnd 13: Sc around. Join with a sl st. Fasten off. Cut yarn. Join C to any st. Rnd 14: [Sc 1, sc spike st 1] around. Join with a sl st. Rnd 15: Sc around. Join with a sl st. Fasten off. Cut yarn.

FINISHING Weave in ends. Block.

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Rnd 8: Sc2tog, sc 8, sc2tog, turn. (10 sts)

Rotate the diaper cover to work on the row 1 edge with RS facing. Join B to first st. Row 37: Ch 1, do not count as a st, hdc in first st, dc spike st 1, [hdc 1, dc spike st 1] 7 times, hdc. (17 sts) Row 38: Turn, sc across. Fasten off. Cut yarn. Join C to last st made in row 38. Row 39: Turn, sc 1, [sc spike st 1, sc 1] across. Fasten off. Cut yarn.

FINISHING

Row 20: Ch 2, sc 1 in 2nd ch from hook, sc 9, 2 sc in last st, turn. (12 sts)

Join buttons on front side of row 37 near the ends. The diaper cover will wrap around and the spaces between the stitches in row 34 will act as buttonholes.

Rows 21–31: Ch 2, sc 1 in 2nd ch from hook, sc across to last 2 sts, 2 sc in last st, turn.

TAIL

Row 32: Ch 1, sc 34, turn. (34 sts)

With larger hook and A, ch 2.

Rnd 33: Ch 1, sc 32, 2 sc in next st (corner made). Turn work 90 degrees to work along the end of rows, sc 24 evenly along the edge. Turn work 90 degrees and work in opposite side of beginning chain, 2 sc in first st, sc 32, 2 sc in next st. Turn work 90 degrees to work along opposite end of each row, start with 2 sc in first

Rnd 1: 4 sc in 2nd ch from hook. (4 sts)

Rnds 9–19: Ch 1, sc 10, turn.

Rnds 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, and 12: Sc around. Rnd 3: 2 sc in next st, sc 3. (5 sts) Rnd 5: 2 sc in next st, sc 4. (6 sts) Rnd 7: 2 sc in next st, sc 5. (7 sts) Rnd 9: 2 sc in next st, sc 6. (8 sts)

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Rnd 11: [2 sc in next st, 3 sc] twice. (10 sts) Rnd 13: 2 hdc in next st, hdc 4, 2 sc in next st, sc 4. (12 sts) Rnd 14: 2 sc in next st, hdc 2, 2 hdc in next st, sc 3, sl st 4, sc 1. Sl st in next st. Fasten off. Cut yarn, leaving a tail for sewing. (14 sts) Sew tail to back of diaper cover about 2" from the top with hdc on the bottom.

BLANKET HEXAGONS (make 24 for an oval shaped blanket) With larger hook and A, ch 2. Rnd 1: Hdc 6 in 2nd ch from hook. Join with a sl st. (6 sts) Rnd 2: Ch 1 (does not count as a stitch now or throughout), [3 hdc, ch 2] in each st around. Join with a sl st. (30 sts) Rnd 3: Ch 1, hdc 1 in same st as the join, hdc 2, [1 hdc, ch 2, 1 hdc] in corner ch-2 section, *hdc 3, [1 hdc, ch 2, 1 hdc] in corner ch-2 section; rep from * 5 times. Join with a sl st. Fasten off. Cut yarn. (42 sts) Join B to any ch-2 corner section. Rnd 4: Ch 1, hdc 1 in ch-2 section, hdc 1 in next st, [hdc spike st 1, hdc 1] twice, [1 hdc, ch 2, 1 hdc] in corner ch-2 section, *hdc 1, [hdc spike st 1, hdc 1] twice, [1 hdc, ch 2, 1 hdc] in corner ch-2 section; rep from * 4 times, hdc, [hdc spike st 1, hdc 1] twice, [1 hdc, ch-2] in corner ch-2 section. Join with a sl st. (54 sts) Rnd 5: Ch 1, sc 1 in same st as the join, sc 7, [1 sc, ch 2, 1 sc] in corner ch-2 section, *sc 7, [1 sc, ch 2, 1 sc] in corner ch-2 section; rep from * 4 times, sc 7, [1 sc, ch 2] in corner ch-2 section. Join with a sl st. Fasten off. Cut yarn. (66 sts) Join C to any ch-2 corner section.

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Rnd 6: Ch 1, hdc 1 in ch-2 section, hdc 2, [hdc spike st, hdc 1] 3 times, hdc 1, [1 hdc, ch 2, 1 hdc] in corner ch-2 section, *hdc 2, [hdc spike st 1, hdc 1] 3 times, hdc 2, [1 hdc, ch 2, 1 hdc] in corner ch-2 section; rep from * 4 times, hdc 2, [hdc spike st 1, hdc 1] 3 times, hdc 2, [hdc, ch 2] in corner ch-2 section. Join with a sl st. Fasten off. Cut yarn; weave in ends. (78 sts)

With WS facing, use C and sl stitches to join hexagons. Use only the loops closest to the back side (this will look like the front loop on one hexagon and the back loop on the other). This will leave the other loops on the front side unused and prominent like the lines on a turtle shell.

Block.

Lay the blanket horizontally. There should be four hexagons along the top. The border is worked in “peaks and valleys.” Start in the top right corner ch-2 section. With larger hook, join C. Work counterclockwise. You will be working a “valley” first, not the straight “top.”

FINISHING Use locking stitch markers to temporarily join hexagons together. Start with 2 hexagons in the center. Make two layers of hexagons around those, as shown.

BLANKET BORDER

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P Peak: Hdc 1, [hdc spike st, hdc 1] 4 times, hdc 2, make a spike st in cch-2 of rnd 1, hdc in the 2nd hdc of ccorner. V Valley: Hdc 2, [hdc spike st, hdc 1] 4 times, skip last st of valley, make a sspike stitch into one of the C (brown) ssts of rnd 1, skip the first st of the p peak. T Top: Hdc 2, [hdc spike st, hdc 1] 6 times, hdc 2, make a spike st in cch-2 of rnd 1, hdc in the 2nd hdc of ccorner.

Peak: Hdc 11, [1 hdc, ch 2, 1 hdc] in corner ch-2 section. Valley: Hdc 11, skip the join area and the ch-2 sections. Top: Hdc 11, [1 hdc, ch 2, 1 hdc] in corner ch-2 section. Rnd 1: Make first sc in first hdc (not corner ch-2). Work in blo around. [Valley, peak] 3 times, top, [valley, peak] twice, top, [valley, peak] twice, top, [valley, peak] 3 times, top, [valley, peak] twice, top, [valley, peak] twice, top, join with a sl st. Fasten off. Cut yarn. Join A to corner ch-2 section where rnd 1 started and ended. Peak: Hdc 11, [1 hdc, ch 1, 1 hdc] in corner ch-2 section. Valley: Hdc 11, skip the last st of the valley and the first st of the peak. Top: Hdc 13, [1 hdc, ch 1, 1 hdc] in corner ch-2 section. Rnd 2: Make first hdc in first hdc (not corner ch-2). Work in blo around. Ch 1, do not count as a st

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now or throughout. [Valley, peak] 3 times, top, [valley, peak] twice, top, [valley, peak] twice, top, [valley, peak] 3 times, top, [valley, peak] twice, top, [valley, peak] twice, top, join with a sl st. Fasten off. Cut yarn. Join B to corner ch-1 where rnd 2 started and ended.

R Rnd 4: Make first hdc in first hdc ((same as joined st). The spike st will b be worked in the st right after the sspike st of the rnd below. Ch 1, [valley, peak] 3 times, top, [valley, peak] twice, top, [valley, peak] twice, top, [valley, peak] 3 times, top, [valley, peak] twice, top, [valley, peak] twice, top, join with a sl st. Fasten off. Cut yarn. Block.

CAPE HEXAGONS (make 7 for a circular shape)

Peak: Hdc 1, [hdc spike st, hdc 1] 5 times, 2 hdc in corner ch-1 section. Valley: Hdc 1, [hdc spike st, hdc 1] 5 times, skip the last st of the valley and first st of the peak. Top: Hdc 1, [hdc spike st, hdc 1] 7 times, 2 hdc in corner ch-1 section. Rnd 3: Make first hdc in first hdc (not corner ch-1). Work in both loops around. Ch 1, [valley, peak] 3 times, top, [valley, peak] twice, top, [valley, peak] twice, top, [valley, peak] 3 times, top, [valley, peak] twice, top, [valley, peak] twice, top, join with a sl st. Fasten off. Cut yarn. Join C to same st as join.

With smaller hook and A, ch 2. Rnd 1: 6 hdc in 2nd ch from hook. Join with a sl st. (6 sts) Rnd 2: Ch 1, do not count as a st, [3 hdc, ch 1] in each st around. Join with a sl st. Fasten off. Cut yarn. (24 sts) Join B to any ch-1 corner st. Rnd 3: Sc in ch-1 corner st, *sc 1, sc spike st, sc 1, [1 sc, ch 1, 1 sc] in corner ch-1 st; rep from * 5 times, sc 1, sc spike st, sc 1, [sc, ch 1] in corner ch-1 st. Join with a sl st. Fasten off. Cut yarn. Join C to any ch-1 corner st. Note: The spike sts in rnd 4 should be on either side of the spike st in rnd 3.

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Rnd 4: Sc in ch-1 corner st, *sc 1, sc spike st, sc 1, sc spike st, sc 1, [1 sc, ch 1, 1 sc] in corner st; rep from * 5 times, sc 1, [sc spike st, sc 1] twice, [1 sc, ch 1] in corner ch-1 st. Join with a sl st. Fasten off. Cut yarn. Block.

FINISHING Use locking stitch markers to temporarily join hexagons together. Start with one hexagon in the center. Make a layer of hexagons around it. With WS facing, use C and sl stitches to join hexagons. Use only the loops closest to the back side (this will look like the front loop on one hexagon and the back loop on the other). This will leave the other loops on the front side unused and prominent like the lines on a turtle shell.

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Border Each hexagon has three sides on the border: a side that goes up, a flat side, and a side that goes down. With smaller hook, join A to corner on the RS of a flat side. The first st should be in first sc, not corner. Rnd 1: Work in blo, *sc 7, [1 sc, ch 1, 1 sc] in corner ch-1 sp, sc 7, skip the join area, sc 7, [1 sc, ch 1, 1 sc] in corner ch-1 sp; rep from * 6 times, join with a sl st. Fasten off. Cut yarn. Join B to ch-1 two sts before join st. The first sc should be in first st, not the ch-1. Rnd 2: Work in both loops. *Sc 2, [sc spike st 1, sc 1] 3 times, sc 1, 3 sc in corner ch-1 sp, [sc spike st 1, 1 sc] 3

times, skip next 2 sts, sc 1, [sc spike st 1, sc 1] 3 times, 2 sc in corner ch-1 sp; rep from * 6 times, join with a sl st. Fasten off. Cut yarn. Join C to the st one st before joined st. The first sc should be in the st next to the one where the yarn was joined. Rnd 3: *Sc 1, [sc spike st 1, sc 1] 4 times, sc 1, make a sc spike st 2 rows below, do not skip a st, sc 1, 2 sc in next st, [sc spike st 1, sc 1] twice, skip a st, make a sc spike st 2 rows below, skip a st, sc 1, [sc spike st 1, sc 1] twice, 2 sc in next st, make a spike st 2 rows below, sc 1; rep from * 6 times, join with a sl st. Fasten off. Cut yarn. Weave in ends. p

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Chesapeake Sweater A relaxed fit and rich Tunisian crochet fabric give this buttoned Skill level: Intermediate

cardigan a sophisticated yet earthy appeal. The body is worked in one

Skills used:

piece, making your finishing work a breeze, while the set-in sleeves

• Single crochet

and ribbed trim create a timeless style.

• Half double crochet

Designed by Robyn Chachula

• Double crochet • Tunisian crochet Finished measurements: Bust: 32½ (35, 40, 45, 50)" Length: 19½ (19½, 22¼, 23½, 23½)" Yarn weight:

3

Yarn used: Daily DK by Willow Yarns

MATERIALS • 4 (5, 6, 7, 8) skeins Daily DK by Willow Yarns, 100% superwash wool (284 yds/100g) in color 0031 Woodpile • U.S. size H-8 (5mm) crochet hook • U.S. size L-11 (8mm) Tunisian crochet hook, with 30" cable, or size required for gauge • Yarn needle • 1⅛" buttons, 6 total

DETAILS

Row 1: Work Tss forward and return pass. (104 [112, 128, 144, 160] sts)

Gauge

Row 2: Forward pass: (Loop on hook counts as first st) Tss in next st, *Twtss in next st, Tss in next st; rep from * across to end. Return pass: Work Tss return pass.

14 sts and 13 rows = 4" (10cm) in patt using larger hook

Special abbreviations Tss (Tunisian simple stitch) Forward pass: Insert hook from right to left in front vertical bar of next stitch and pull up a loop. Return pass: *Yo and draw through 2 loops; rep from * until 1 loop remains.

Tss dec Insert hook from right to left in front vertical bar of next 2 stitches at the same time and pull up a loop.

Twtss (Twisted simple stitch) Forward pass: Insert hook from left to right in front vertical bar of next stitch and pull up a loop. Return pass: *Yo and draw through 2 loops; rep from * until 1 loop remains.

Yarn alternatives Save: Soft Wool by SMC Select

SWEATER

Spend: Pure Merino DK by Jenny Watson

Body

Splurge: Merinogold by Grignasco Knits

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With larger hook, ch 104 (112, 128, 144, 160).

Rep row 2 for 38 (38, 42, 42, 42) rows total. Row 39 (39, 43, 43, 43): Forward pass: Tss dec in next 2 sts, *Tss in next st, Twtss in next st; rep from * across to last 3 sts, Tss dec in next 2 sts, Tss in last st. Return pass: Work Tss return pass. (102 [110, 126, 142, 158] sts) Row 40 (40, 44, 44, 44): Forward pass: Tss in next st, *Tss in next st, Twtss in next st; rep from * across to last 2 sts, Tss in last 2 sts. Return pass: Work Tss return pass. Row 41 (41, 45, 45, 45): Forward pass: Tss dec in next 2 sts, *Twtss in next st, Tss in next st; rep from * across to last 3 sts, Tss dec in next 2 sts, Tss in last st. Return pass: Work Tss return pass. (100 [108, 124, 140, 156] sts) Row 42 (42, 46, 46, 46): Forward pass: Tss in next st, *Twtss in next st, Tss in next st; rep from * across to end. Return pass: Work Tss return pass.

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Shape front Row 1: Forward pass: *Tss in next st, Twtss in next st; rep from * 7 (7, 9, 11, 11) times total, Tss in next st. Return pass: Work Tss return pass. (16 [16, 20, 24, 24] sts) Row 2: Forward pass: Tss dec in next 2 sts, *Tss in next st, Twtss in next st; rep from * across to last 3 sts, Tss dec in next 2 sts, Tss in last st. Return pass: Work Tss return pass. (14 [14, 18, 22, 22] sts) Row 3: Forward pass: Tss in next st, *Tss in next st, Twtss in next st; rep from * across to last 2 sts, Tss in last 2 sts. Return pass: Work Tss return pass. Row 4: Forward pass: Tss dec in next 2 sts, *Twtss in next st, Tss in next st; rep from * across to last 3 sts, Tss dec in next 2 sts, Tss in last st. Return pass: Work Tss return pass. (12 [12, 16, 20, 20] sts) Row 5: Forward pass: Tss in next st, *Twtss in next st, Tss in next st; rep from * across to end. Return pass: Work Tss return pass. Rep rows 2–5 a total of 1 (1, 2, 3, 3) more times. (8 sts) Row 11 (11, 15, 19, 19): Forward pass: Tss dec in next 2 sts, Tss in next st, Twtss in next st, Tss dec in next 2 sts, Tss in last st. Return pass: Work Tss return pass. (6 sts) Row 12 (12, 16, 20, 20): Forward pass: Tss in next 2 sts, Twtss in next st, Tss in last 2 sts. Return pass: Work Tss return pass. Row 13 (13, 17, 21, 21): Forward pass: Tss dec in next 4 sts, Tss in last st. Return pass: Work Tss return pass. (4 sts) Row 14 (14, 18, 22, 22): Forward pass: Tss in next st, Twtss in next st, Tss in last st. Return pass: Work Tss return pass. Row 15 (15, 19, 23, 23): Forward pass: Tss dec in next 2 sts, Tss in last st. Return pass: Work Tss return pass. (3 sts)

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Row 16 (16, 20, 24, 24): Forward pass: Tss dec in last 2 sts, Return pass: Pull loop through loop on hook to fasten off.

Shape back Join yarn to last st on row 1 of front shaping. Row 1: Forward pass: *Twtss in next st, pull loop through loop on hook, Tss in next st, pull loop through loop on hook; rep from * 6 (7, 8, 9, 12) times total, Tss in next st, **Tss in next st, Twtss in next st; rep from ** 21 (22, 25, 28, 29) times total, Tss in next st, leave remaining sts unworked. Return pass: Work Tss return pass. (44 [46, 52, 58, 60] sts) Row 2: Forward pass: Tss dec in next 2 sts, *Tss in next st, Twtss in next st; rep from * across to last 3 sts, Tss dec in next 2 sts, Tss in last st. Return pass: Work Tss return pass. (42 [44, 50, 56, 58] sts) Row 3: Forward pass: Tss in next st, *Tss in next st, Twtss in next st; rep from * across to last 2 sts, Tss in last 2 sts. Return pass: Work Tss return pass. Row 4: Forward pass: Tss dec in next 2 sts, *Twtss in next st, Tss in next st; rep from * across to last 3 sts, Tss dec in next 2 sts, Tss in last st. Return pass: Work Tss return pass. (40 [42, 48, 54, 56] sts) Row 5: Forward pass: Tss in next st, *Twtss in next st, Tss in next st; rep from * across to end. Return pass: Work Tss return pass.

Rep rows 2-5 a total of 2 (2, 3, 4, 4) more times, rep rows 2-4 once. (28 [30, 32, 34, 36] sts) Last row: Forward pass: *Tss in next st, pull loop through loop on hook, Twtss in next st, pull loop through loop on hook; rep from * to end, Tss in last st, pull loop through loop on hook to fasten off.

Shape opposite front Join yarn to last st on row 1 of back shaping. Row 1: Forward pass: *Twtss in next st, pull loop through loop on hook, Tss in next st, pull loop through loop on hook; rep from * 6 (7, 8, 9, 12) times total, **Tss in next st, Twtss in next st; rep from ** to last st, Tss in last st. Return pass: Work Tss return pass. (16 [16, 20, 24, 24] sts) Rep front shaping, fasten off.

Sleeves With larger hook, ch 42 (46, 50, 56, 60). Row 1: Forward pass: Pull up a loop in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across. Return pass: Yo, pull through 1 loop on hook, *yo, pull through 2 loops on hook; rep from * to end (working loops off as normal). (42 [46, 50, 56, 60] sts) Row 2: Forward pass: (Loop on hook counts as ďŹ rst st) Tss in next st, *Twtss in next st, Tss in next st; rep

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from * across to end. Return pass: Work Tss return pass.

joins row, 2nd time as t-ch), turn. (13 hdc)

1 in middle bar of next 4 hdc, dc 1 in top of t-ch, turn.

Rep row 2 for 9 (9, 12, 12, 12) rows total.

Row 2: Sc 1 in middle bar of hdc (under top 2 loops) across, sc 1 in top of t-ch, turn.

Row 15: Ch 2, hdc 1 in each dc to ch-1 sp, hdc 1 in ch-1 sp, hdc 1 in each dc across, sl st to body twice, turn.

Shape cap Row 1: Forward pass: *Tss in next st, pull loop through loop on hook, Twtss in next st, pull loop through loop on hook; rep from * 2 (3, 3, 3, 5) times total, Tss in next st, pull loop through loop on hook, Tss in next st, **Tss in next st, Twtss in next st; rep from ** 14 (15, 16, 18, 17) times total, Tss in next st, leave remaining sts unworked. Return pass: Work Tss return pass. (30 [32, 34, 38, 36] sts) Rep rows 2–17 of back shaping. Fasten off. (14 [16, 14, 14, 12] sts)

Row 3: Ch 2 (counts as hdc throughout), hdc 1 in each sc across, sl st to body twice, turn. Rows 4 and 5: Rep rows 2 and 3 once, do not turn at end of row 3. Row 6: Sl st to body once more (for taller t-ch), turn, dc 1 in middle bar of each hdc across, dc 1 in top of t-ch, turn. Row 7: Ch 2, hdc 1 in each dc across, sl st to body twice. Rows 8 and 9: Rep rows 2 and 3 once. Rep rows 2–9 across bottom of body, fasten off.

FINISHING Block pieces to size. Join yarn to RS of body with sl st at raglan seam, ch 1, sc evenly around entire edge of raglan seam, fasten off. Rep on opposite raglan seam and raglan seam on sleeve panels.

Raglan seam Pin sleeve panel to body at raglan seam with WS facing. Align front raglan, underarm, and back raglan. Join yarn to right side of raglan seam with sl st. Sl st in each sc down raglan (working in back loop of panel closest to you and front loop of panel furthest from you at same time), across underarm, and up opposite raglan. Fasten off, weave in ends.

Collar edging With smaller hook, join yarn to collar on RS, ch 11. Rep directions for bottom edging for 13 rows. (10 sts) Row 14 (buttonhole row): Sl st to body once more, turn, dc in middle bar of next 4 hdc, ch 1, sk 1 hdc, dc

Rows 16–21: Rep rows 2 and 3 of bottom ribbing three times. Rep rows 14–21 five more times. Rep directions for bottom ribbing around collar opening. Group sl st closer together at outside corner of neck and further apart at inside corner of back neck. Do not fasten off at opposite edge. (Optional) Sc on RS of bottom edge and collar edge to hide edges. Block if necessary. Sew buttons to collar opposite buttonholes.

Sleeve edging With smaller hook, join yarn to bottom edge of sleeve on RS, ch 7. Rep directions for bottom ribbing around edge of sleeve. (6 sts) Fasten off with long tail once back to beginning. Whipstitch first and last row together. (Optional) Join yarn to RS with sl st, sc around edge of sleeve to hide edge. Block if necessary. p

Bottom ribbing With smaller hook, join yarn to bottom edge of body on RS, ch 14. Row 1 (RS): Hdc 1 in 2nd ch from hook (counts as hdc), hdc in each ch across, sl st to body twice (first time

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Chesapeake Sweater

3¾ (4½, 5, 5¾, 7½)"

Back

3¾ (4½, 5, 5¾, 7½)"

2½ (2½, 3¼, 3¾, 3¾)"

Front

12¾ (12¾, 14, 14, 14)"

Front

14 (14, 15½, 15½, 15½)"

6¾ (6¾, 8, 9¼, 9¼)"

8¾ (9½, 10, 10¾, 11¼)"

32½ (35, 40, 45, 50)"

4½ (5, 4½, 4½, 3¾)" 2½ (2½, 3¼, 3¾, 3¾)"

Sleeve

3 (3, 4, 4, 4)"

5½ (5½, 6¾, 8, 8)"

2 (2½, 2½, 2½, 3¾)"

13¼ (14½, 15¾, 17½, 18¾)"

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Books We Love

Books to inspire every crocheter! By Jamie Taylor

Cute Crochet World By Suzann Thompson

Use up small amounts of yarn by crocheting these adorable motifs. Patterns for animals, foods, plants, toys, and almost anything else you can imagine are included here, and there is no limit to the wonderful ways you can use them. Whether you stitch a cute scene onto a pillow or blanket or use a single motif as an appliqué on your favorite sweater pattern, these fun mini-projects will certainly make you smile. Lark Books, 2014, 144 pages, $17.95, www.larkcrafts.com

Beastly Crochet By Brenda K.B. Anderson

Stitch up a Lil’ Vampire Hat, Sugar Skull Shoulder Bag, or pair of Sasquatch Slippers just in time for Halloween! The adorably quirky patterns here are fun and easy ways to accent a costume or add some spooky fun to your little one’s everyday attire. From robots, to gnomes, to dinosaurs, this book will become your go-to resource for characters and creatures of all kinds. Interweave, 2013, 168 pages, $22.95, www.interweave.com/books

Crochet Pink By Janet Rehfeldt

October is Breast Cancer Awareness Month, and the designs in this book were inspired by the well-known pink ribbons that show support for those affected by this terrible disease. Give this book or a finished project from it as a gift to a loved one to show your support and encouragement, or make a few of these designs for charity to provide warmth and comfort for others in your community. With 26 gorgeous patterns inside, you’ll find a variety of inspiring projects to choose from. Martingale, 2013, 96 pages, $24.99, www.shopmartingale.com

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Squash Trio Add jack-o’-lantern features to any or all of these squashes because . . . hey, why should pumpkins have all the fun? Reprinted with permission from Cute Crochet World ©2014 by Suzann Thompson, Lark Books, an imprint of Sterling Publishing Co., Inc. Photography by Lark Books

See our ute fC review oWorld Crochet e 69! on pag


• Polyester fiberfill

Skill level: Intermediate

• Tapestry needle

Skills used:

• A few yards (m) of black or yellow yarn or thread to embroider jacko’-lantern features

• Single crochet • Half double crochet • Double crochet Finished measurements: Pumpkin: 3" diameter in Plymouth Select Worsted Merino Superwash Pumpkin: 2⅝" diameter in Mushishi by Plymouth Yarn Company Butternut squash: 2" diameter by 4" tall in Plymouth Select Worsted Merino Superwash Scallop squash: 2" diameter x 1" thick in Plymouth Select Worsted Merino Superwash Yarn weight:

3

and

4

Yarn used: Select Worsted Merino Superwash and Mushishi by Plymouth Yarn Company and 220 Sport by Cascade Yarns

MATERIALS • These squashes used small amounts of: Plymouth Select Worsted Merino Superwash by Plymouth Yarn Company, 100% superwash fine merino wool (218 yds/100g) in colors 38 Gold (A) and 42 Purple (B) Mushishi by Plymouth Yarn Company, 95% wool, 5% silk (491 yds/250g) in color 07 Rust (A) and (B) 220 Sport by Cascade Yarns, 100% Peruvian Highland wool (164 yds/50g) in colors 7825 Orange Sherbet (A) and 8622 Camel (B) • Crochet hook: Appropriate size hook to achieve a firm gauge with selected yarn • 7 safety pins for pumpkin

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• Optional: Black or yellow embroidery floss for jack-o’-lantern detail

Yarn alternatives Save: Long Meadow by Valley Yarns Spend: Cotton Classic Light by Tahki Yarns Splurge: Illaris by Mirasol

DETAILS

Rnd 3: Ch 2, 2 hdc in next st, hdc in each of next 2 sts, ch 3, *sk next ch-sp, hdc in next hdc, 2 hdc in next st, hdc in each of next 2 sts, ch 3; rep from * 5 times, join with sl st to top of beg ch-2—35 hdc (7 sets of 5 hdc), 7 ch-lps. Rnd 4: Sl st in next hdc, ch 2, hdc in next 2 sts, 2 hdc in next hdc, ch 3, *sk next ch-sp, sk first hdc, hdc in next 3 sts, 2 hdc in next st, ch 3; rep from * 5 times, join with sl st to top of beg ch-2—35 hdc, 7 ch-lps. Rnd 5: Rep Rnd 4. Rnd 6: (Sl st, ch 2, hdc) in next st, hdc in next 3 sts, ch 3, *sk next chsp, sk next hdc, 2 hdc in next st, hdc in each of next 3 sts, ch 3; rep from * 5 times, join with sl st to top of beg ch-2—35 hdc, 7 ch-lps.

Gauge

Rnds 7 and 8: Rep Rnd 4.

Plymouth Select Worsted Merino Superwash: 12 hdc in a 4-ch ring = 1" worked on U.S. size H-8 (5mm) hook

Rnd 9: Rep Rnd 6.

Mushishi: 12 hdc in a 4-ch ring = 1" worked on U.S. size F-5 (3.75mm) hook 220 Sport: 12 hdc in a 4-ch ring = ⅞" worked on U.S. size E-4 (3.5mm) hook

STEM With B, ch 6, sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in each ch across. Fasten off B, leaving a sewing length.

PUMPKIN With A, ch 5, join with a sl st to form a ring. Rnd 1: Ch 2 (counts as hdc here and throughout), 13 hdc in ring, join with sl st to top of beg ch-2—14 hdc. Rnd 2: Ch 2, hdc in first st, 2 hdc in next st, ch 3, *2 hdc in each of next 2 sts, ch 3; rep from * 5 times, join with sl st to top of beg ch-2—28 hdc, 7 ch-lps.

Rnd 10: Sl st in next hdc, ch 2, hdc in next 3 sts, ch 3, *sk next ch-sp, sk next hdc, hdc in each of next 4 sts, ch 3; rep from * 5 times, join with sl st to top of beg ch-2—28 hdc, 7 ch-lps. Rnd 11: Sl st in next hdc, ch 2, hdc in next 2 sts, ch 3, *sk next ch-sp, sk next hdc, hdc in each of next 3 sts, ch 3; rep from * 5 times, join with sl st to top of beg ch-2—21 hdc, 7 ch-lps. Rnd 12: Sl st in next hdc, ch 2, hdc in next st, ch 3, *sk next ch-sp, sk first hdc, hdc in each of next 2 sts, ch 3; rep from * 5 times, join with sl st to top of beg ch-2, open last lp wide so it won’t unravel as you work the next step (this is the active lp)—14 hdc, 7 ch-lps. Turn piece inside out. The ch-3 lps will be prominent on this side. Counting from Rnd 2 to Rnd 12, you should have 11 ch-3 lps between each pair of hdc-segments. Working one section at a time, insert hook under the ch-3 lps of Rnd 2 and Rnd 3, pull Rnd 3’s lp under Rnd 2’s lp. *Insert hook under the lp of the next rnd and pull it under the previous

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ch-3 lp; rep from * until one ch-3 lp remains on hook, pin a safety pin through this lp to keep it from unraveling. Repeat process for each set of ch-3 lps—7 safety pins at top of piece. Rnd 13: Turn piece RS out, insert hook into active lp and pull yarn to tighten lp to a working tension, ch 2, *insert hook into next ch-3 lp, remove safety pin, complete a sc into ch-3 lp, sk next hdc, hdc into next st; rep from * 4 times, sc in next ch-3 lp as before, join with sl st to beg ch2—14 sts. Fasten off A.

Pumpkin Lid With A, ch 5, join with a sl st in first ch to form ring. Rnd 1 (WS): Ch 3 (counts as first dc), 13 dc in ring, join with sl st to top of ch-3 at beg of rnd—14 dc. Rnd 2: *(Hdc, dc, hdc) in next st, sl st in next st; rep from * 6 times, leaving a long end for sewing—21 hdc, 7 sl st. Fasten off A.

FINISHING Turn pumpkin lid WS up (the scallops lie better this way), sew stem to middle of pumpkin lid. Weave in all ends except long ends for sewing. Stuff pumpkin lightly with polyester fiberfill. Sew lid to top of pumpkin. Add jack-o’-lantern features if desired.

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BUTTERNUT SQUASH

SCALLOP SQUASH

With A, ch 4, join with a sl st in first ch to form ring.

Top

Rnd 1: Ch 2 (counts as first hdc here and throughout), 9 hdc in ring, join with sl st to top of beg ch-2—10 hdc. Rnd 2: Ch 2, hdc in next 3 sts, 2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 4 sts, 2 hdc in next st, join with sl st to top of beg ch-2—12 hdc. Rnd 3: Ch 2, hdc in each st around, join with sl st to top of beg ch-2—12 hdc. Rnds 4–7: Rep Rnd 3. Rnd 8: Ch 2, *2 hdc in each of next 2 sts, hdc in next st; rep from * twice, 2 hdc in each of next 2 sts, join with sl st to top of beg ch-2—20 hdc. Rnds 9 and 10: Ch 2, hdc in each st around, join with sl st to top of beg ch-2—20 hdc. Rnd 11: Ch 2, [hdc2tog over next 2 sts] 10 times, sk beg ch-2, sl st in top of first hdc2tog—10 hdc. Stuff squash lightly with polyester fiberfill. Rnd 12: Ch 1, starting in first st, [sc2tog over next 2 sts] 5 times, sl st in first sc2tog—5 sts. Fasten off, leaving a long sewing length.

FINISHING Add more polyester fiberfill if needed. Use yarn end at bottom of squash to sew top closed. Sew stem to top of squash. Add jack-o’-lantern features if desired.

With A, ch 4, join with a sl st to form a ring. Rnd 1 (RS): Ch 2 (counts as first hdc), 9 hdc in ring, join with sl st to top of beg ch-2—10 hdc. Rnd 2: Ch 2, hdc in first st, 2 hdc in each of next 9 sts, join with sl st to top of beg ch-2—20 hdc. Rnd 3: Ch 1, sc in first st, *2 sc in next st, sc in next st; rep from * 8 times, 2 sc in last st, join with sl st in top of first sc—30 sc. Rnd 4: *(Hdc, dc) in next st, (dc, hdc) in next st, sl st in next st; rep from * 9 times—10 scallops. Fasten off A.

Bottom With A, ch 4, join with a sl st to form a ring. Rnds 1 and 2: Rep Rnds 1 and 2 of scallop squash top. Fasten off, leaving a long sewing length.

FINISHING Sew stem to center top of squash. Weave in ends except for sewing end. With WS together, sew 2 sts of top and bottom tog, *sk 1 st of top, sew next 2 sts of top and bottom tog; rep from * around, stuffing lightly with fiberfill before completely closing the seam. Embroider jack-o’lantern features if desired. p

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Cityscape Sweater Stitch up a comfy and classic men’s sweater that looks knitted with your Tunisian crochet hook! The stripes on the sleeves and edges complete the look and provide some added interest without overpowering the effortlessly handsome design. Designed by Sheryl Thies


Skill level: Intermediate Skills used: • Tunisian crochet Sizes: Men’s Small (Medium, Large, Extra Large, 2X) Finished measurements: Chest: 41 (44, 49, 52, 56)" Length: 23½ (24, 24½, 25, 25½)" Yarn weight:

2

Yarn used: Tracie Too by Imperial Yarn

MATERIALS • Tracie Too by Imperial Yarn, 100% wool (395 yds/100g) in the following colors/amounts: 3 (3, 4, 4, 5) skeins color 46 Quail (A) 1 skein color 2 Pearl Gray (B) • U.S. size L-11 (8mm) Tunisian crochet hook, or size required for gauge • U.S. size K-10½ (6.5mm) crochet hook • Yarn needle

Yarn alternatives Save: 220 Superwash Sport by Cascade Spend: Gems Sport by Louet Splurge: Zara by Filatura Di Crosa

DETAILS Gauge 12 sts = 4" (10cm) in Tks using larger hook

Special abbreviations Foundation forward pass: *Insert hook in next ch, yo and pull up loop, leave loop on hook; rep from * across ch. Do not turn work. Foundation return pass: Yo and draw through 1 loop, *yo and draw through 2 loops; rep from * until 1 loop rem on hook. Tks forward pass: *Insert hook from right to left behind front vertical bar, yo and pull up loop, leave loop on hook; rep from * across. Tks return pass: Yo and draw through 1 loop, *yo and draw through 2 loops; rep from * until 1 loop rem.

Love of Crochet | Fall 2014

Stitch pattern Rib Note: Crossed stitches appear one row below the row where the sts are crossed. Forward pass: Tks, *Tc2, Tks 2; rep from * to last 4 sts, end Tc2, Tks, Tss. Return pass: Work as for Tks return pass. Rep both passes for patt.

Tc2: Skip next vertical bar, Tss into next vertical bar, Tss into skipped vertical bar.

SWEATER

Tks 2 tog: Insert hook behind next vertical bar and from front to back between front and back vertical bar on next st, yo and pull up loop, leave loop on hook.

With A, ch 62 (66, 74, 78, 86). Work foundation forward pass. (62 [66, 74, 78, 86] loops on hook)

M1: Insert hook between the 2 horizontal strands, yo and pull up loop, leave loop on hook.

74

Tks Sc BO: Insert hook from front to back between front and back vertical bar, yo and pull up loop, yo and draw through 2 loops.

Back

Work return pass. Work in rib patt forward and return passes until piece measures 3". Work Tks forward and return passes until piece measures 15".

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Work as for back until piece measures 20½ (21, 21½, 22, 22½)".

Shape neck Work across until 16 (16, 19, 19, 21) sts on hook. Work return pass. [Tks to last 3 sts, Tks 2 tog, Tss. Work return pass] twice. (14 [14, 17, 17, 19] sts rem after second time) Work in patt until armhole measures 8½ (9, 9½, 10, 10½)". Tks Sc BO all sts. Rejoin yarn to work and Tks Sc BO center 18 (18, 20, 20, 20) sts. Cont in patt across remaining 16 (16, 19, 19, 21) sts. Work return pass. Next 2 rows: [Tks 2 tog, Tks across row. Work return pass] twice. (14 [14, 17, 17, 19] sts rem after second time) Work in patt until armhole measures 8½ (9, 9½, 10, 10½)". Tks Sc BO all sts.

Sleeves Prepare 2 balls of A and 1 ball of B. Do not strand yarn. On the forward pass, change color by moving the color to be dropped to the left and bring new color up from behind. On the return pass, move color to be dropped to the right and bring new color up from behind.

With A, sl st left shoulder seam. Mark back neck edge at shoulder. With RS facing and A, beg at left shoulder seam, pick up 66 (66, 74, 74, 74) sts as for foundation forward pass, working into the neck edge instead of the usual chain. Work return pass. Work rib patt forward and return passes 3 times. With smaller hook, Sc BO all sts. Sl st shoulder seam, set in sleeves and sl st side seams.

Set up row: Work Tks forward pass until 10 loops on hook; with B, work Tks 10 sts; with A, Tks 10 sts. Work return pass, changing color when there is one loop of the color to be dropped on the hook and all the other loops are the new color. Work in Tks, maintaining color patt and increasing 1 st each edge [Tks 1, M1, work to last 3 sts, end M1, Tks, Tss] every 4 rows 11 (12, 13, 15, 17) times. (52 [54, 56, 60, 64] sts)

With smaller hook and B, work 1 rnd sc along all edges. Weave in ends. Block. p

Work in patt until piece measures 21½ (22, 22½, 23½, 24)". Tks Sc BO all sts.

Cityscape Sweater 7¼ (7¼, 8, 8, 8)" 4½ (4½, 5½, 5½, 6½)" 3" 14 (15, 19, 20, 21)"

21½ (22, 22½, 23, 23½)"

Front

Work rib patt forward and return passes until piece measures 3".

23½ (24, 24½, 25, 25½)"

Work in patt over 50 (50, 58, 58, 62) sts until armhole measures 8½ (9, 9½, 10, 10½)". Tks Sc BO all sts.

FINISHING

8½ (9, 9½, 10, 10½)"

Tks Sc BO 6 (8, 8, 10, 12) sts, work across 50 (50, 58, 58, 62) sts, leave remaining 6 (8, 8, 10, 12) sts unworked.

Ch 30. Work foundation forward pass. (30 loops on hook) Work return pass.

15"

Shape armholes

Check out our Summer 2014 Issue for more information on changing colors in Tunisian crochet.

20½ (22, 24½, 26, 28)"

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Vintage Hat Inspired by a hat pattern from the 1960s, this lacy cap works up Skill level: Beginner

quickly and is a perfect one-skein project for new crocheters. Finish

Skills used:

this beauty in one evening, and you’ll have an elegant new accessory

• Single crochet

to wear the very next day!

Finished measurements: 20" circumference Yarn weight:

4

Yarn used: Vintage Colors by Berroco

MATERIALS • 1 skein Vintage Colors by Berroco, 52% acrylic, 40% wool, 8% nylon (217 yds/100g) in color 5216

Designed by Amy Polcyn

HAT Ch 4, join with sl st to form a ring. Rnd 1: [Ch 3, sc 1 in ring] 6 times. (6 ch-3 sps) Rnd 2: [Ch 3, sc 1 in next ch-3 sp, ch 3, sc 1 in sc] 6 times. (12 ch-3 sps) Rnd 3: *Ch 3, sc 1 in next ch-3 sp; rep from * around. Rnds 4 and 5: Rep rnd 3.

Rnd 11: Rep rnd 3. Rnd 12: *[Ch 3, sc 1 in next ch-3 sp] 7 times, ch 3, sc 1 in next sc; rep from * around. (24 ch-3 sps) Rnd 13: Rep rnd 3. Rnd 14: *[Ch 3, sc 1 in next ch-3 sp] 8 times, ch 3, sc 1 in next sc; rep from * around. (27 ch-3 sps) Rnds 15–20: Rep rnd 3. Rnd 21: *2 sc in next ch-3 sp, skip next sc, 2 sc in following ch-3 sp, sc 1 in sc; rep from * around, ending 2 sc in last ch-3 sp, skip last sc.

• U.S. size H-8 (5mm) crochet hook, or size required for gauge

Rnd 6: *[Ch 3, sc 1 in next ch-3 sp] 4 times, ch 3, sc 1 in next sc; rep from * around. (15 ch-3 sps)

• Stitch marker

Rnd 7: Rep rnd 3.

• Yarn needle

Rnd 8: *[Ch 3, sc 1 in next ch-3 sp] 5 times, ch 3, sc 1 in next sc; rep from * around. (18 ch-3 sps)

Yarn alternatives

Rnd 9: Rep rnd 3.

FINISHING

Save: Heritage by Briggs & Little

Rnd 10: *[Ch 3, sc 1 in next ch-3 sp] 6 times, ch 3, sc 1 in next sc; rep from * around. (21 ch-3 sps)

Weave in ends. Block. p

Spend: Akiko by Louisa Harding Splurge: Equity Sport by Sincere Sheep

Rnds 22 and 24: Sc 1 in each sc around. At end of last rnd, join with sl st. Fasten off.

DETAILS Gauge Rnds 1–3 = 2½" (6cm)

Note Work in continuous rounds, moving marker up as work progresses. Do not join unless otherwise instructed.

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Mondrian Throw These modern blocks of color are crocheted in three separate pieces Skill level: Easy

with a simple lace pattern that opens beautifully after blocking. Easily

Skills used:

create a variety of looks by crocheting this abstract design in different

• Single crochet

colors, or use the colors here as a nod to Piet Mondrian himself.

• Double crochet

Designed by Anastacia Zittel

Finished measurements: 51" wide x 55" long Yarn weight:

3

Yarn used: Superwash Merino by Lion Brand Collection

MATERIALS • Superwash Merino by Lion Brand Collection, 100% superwash merino (306 yds/100g) in following colors/amounts: 2 skeins color 153 Night Sky (MC), 107 Sky (A), 114 Cayenne (D) 1 skein color 98 Ivory (B), 108 Denim (C), 27 Mahogany (E) • U.S. size H-8 (5mm) crochet hook, or size required for gauge • Yarn needle

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Yarn alternatives

AFGHAN

Save: Pure Merino DK by Jenny Watson

Panel 1

Spend: Baby Cashmere Merino Silk DK by Sublime

With A, ch 112.

Splurge: Rimu by Zealana imported by The YarnSisters

Row 1 (WS): Sc 1 in 2nd ch from hook, *ch 1, sk next ch, sc 1 in next ch; rep from * across. Turn.

DETAILS

Row 2: Ch 1, sc 1 in first sc, *dc 1 in next ch-1 sp, sc 1 in next sc; rep from * across, turn.

Gauge 13 sts and 12 rows = 4" (10cm) in patt, after blocking

Notes Pattern is made in 3 panels and then slip stitched together with a final border added. Each panel is worked flat, and panel and afghan borders are worked in the rnd.

Row 3: Ch 1, sc 1 in first sc, *ch 1, sk next dc, sc 1 in next sc; rep from * across, turn. Row 4: Ch 1, sc 1 in first sc, *dc 1 in next ch-1 sp, sc 1 in next sc; rep from * across, turn. Rows 5–28: Rep rows 3 and 4, changing to MC in last st. Rows 29–32: With MC, rep rows 3 and 4, changing to B in last st. Rows 33–42: With B, rep rows 3 and 4, changing to MC in last st.

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Rows 5 5–58: Rep rows 3 and 4, h changing to MC in last st. Rows 59–62: With MC, rep rows 3 and 4, changing to E in last st. Rows 63–74: With E, rep rows 3 and 4, changing to MC in last st. Rows 75–78: With MC, rep rows 3 and 4, changing to B in last st. Rows 43–46: With MC, rep rows 3 and 4, changing to C in last st. Rows 47–90: With C, rep rows 3 and 4, changing to MC in last st. Rows 91–94: With MC, rep rows 3 and 4, changing to A in last st. Rows 95–104: With A, rep rows 3 and 4, changing to MC in last st. Rows 105–108: With MC, rep rows 3 and 4, changing to D in last st. Rows 109–134: With D, rep rows 3 and 4, changing to MC in last st.

Panel border Rnd 1: With MC, ch 1, sc 1 in first sc, *ch 1, sk next dc, sc 1 in next sc; rep from * across to end of row, turn work 90 degrees, ch 2, sc in same corner st. Working alongside long end of panel and edges of sts, *ch 1, sk next dc, sc 1 in next sc; rep from * to next corner, turn work 90 degrees, ch 2, sc in same corner st. Working in beginning chain loops, *ch 1, sk next ch, sc 1 in next ch; rep from * to last corner. Turn work 90 degrees, ch 2, sc 1 in same corner st, working

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alongside long end of panel and edges of sts, *ch 1, sk next dc, sc 1 in next sc; rep from * to last corner, ch 2, join with a sl st in first sc, turn. Rnd 2: Ch 1, sc 1 in first sc, [1 dc, 1 sc, 1 dc] in ch-2 sp, sc 1 in next sc, *dc in next ch-1 sp, sc 1 in next sc. Rep from * to ch-2 sp, [1 dc, 1 sc, 1 dc] in ch-2 sp; rep from * twice more. *Dc 1 in next ch-1 sp, sc 1 in next sc; rep from * to last ch-1 sp, dc 1 in ch-1 sp, join with a sl st to first sc. Fasten off.

Rows 79–134: With B, rep rows 3 and 4, changing to MC in last st. Rep panel border directions. Fasten off.

Panel 3 With C, ch 50. Row 1 (WS): Sc in 2nd ch from hook, *ch 1, sk next ch, sc 1 in next ch; rep from * across, turn. Row 2: Ch 1, sc 1 in first sc, *dc in next ch-1 sp, sc 1 in next sc; rep from * across, turn.

With D, ch 42.

Row 3: Ch 1, sc 1 in first sc, *ch 1, sk next dc, sc 1 in next sc; rep from * across, turn.

Row 1 (WS): Sc in 2nd ch from hook, *ch 1, sk next ch, sc 1 in next ch; rep from * across, turn.

Row 4: Ch 1, sc 1 in first sc, *dc in next ch-1 sp, sc 1 in next sc; rep from * across, turn.

Row 2: Ch 1, sc 1 in first sc, *dc 1 in next ch-1 sp, sc 1 in next sc; rep from * across, turn.

Rows 5–74: Rep rows 3 and 4, changing to MC in last st.

Panel 2

Row 3: Ch 1, sc 1 in first sc, *ch 1, sk next dc, sc 1 in next sc; rep from * across, turn. Row 4: Ch 1, sc 1 in first sc, *dc 1 in next ch-1 sp, sc 1 in next sc; rep from * across, turn.

Rows 75–78: With MC, rep rows 3 and 4, changing to A in last st. Rows 79–98: With A, rep rows 3 and 4, changing to MC in last st. Rows 99–102: With MC, rep rows 3 and 4, changing to E in last st.

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Rows 103–146: With E, rep rows 3 and 4, changing to MC in last st.

Mondrian Throw

Rep panel border directions. Fasten off.

FINISHING

E

Sl st panels 1 and 2 together with WS held together, then join panels 1 and 2 with panel 3, also with WS together, as shown.

C

A

Panel 3

Border Join MC with a sl st to any corner. Work rnds 1 and 2 of panel border, do not fasten off after row 2.

D

Rnd 4: Ch 1, sc 1 in first sc, [1 dc, 1 sc, 1 dc] in ch-2 sp, sc 1 in next sc, *dc 1 in next ch-1 sp, sc 1 in next sc. Rep from * to ch-2 sp, [1 dc, 1 sc, 1 dc] in ch-2 sp; rep from * twice more. **Dc 1 in next ch-1 sp, sc 1 in next sc; rep from ** to last ch-1 sp, dc 1 in ch-1 sp, join with a sl st to first sc. Fasten off.

B

A

Rnd 3: Turn. Ch 1, sc 1 in first sc, *ch 1, sk next dc, sc 1 in next sc; rep from * across to end of row, turn work 90 degrees, ch 2, sc 1 in same corner st. Working alongside long end of afghan and edges of sts, *ch 1, sk next dc, sc 1 in next sc; rep from * to next corner, turn work 90 degrees, ch 2, sc 1 in same corner st. Working alongside edge of afghan, *ch 1, sk next ch, sc 1 in next ch; rep from * to last corner. Turn work 90 degrees, ch 2, sc 1 in same corner st, working alongside last side of afghan and edges of sts, *ch 1, sk next dc, sc 1 in next sc; rep from * to last corner, ch 2, join with a sl st to first sc. Turn.

C

B

Panel 1

E

Panel 2 D

A

4 3 2

Weave in ends. Block. p

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Rattan Wrap Easy crocheted cables create delightful texture on this casual wrap.

Skill level: Easy

Drape this beauty over your shoulders when you set off for your

Skills used:

next stroll through the park, and you’ll be ready for anything that

• Single crochet

comes your way.

• Double crochet

Designed by Nathalie O’Shea

Finished measurements: 12" wide x 55" long

Special abbreviation

Yarn weight:

1

Yarn used: Kia Ora Kiwi and Kauri Fingering by Zealana Performa Series imported by The YarnSisters

MATERIALS

Cable: Work 1 dc, inserting hook 4 sts to the right in the last sc skipped.

Stitch pattern Row 1 (WS): Sc 1 in 2nd ch from hook, sc 1 in each ch to end, turn. Row 2: Ch 3, *skip next sc, dc 1 in next 3 sc, work cable; rep from * to last stitch, dc 1, turn.

• 6 skeins Kia Ora Kiwi Zealana Performa Series imported by The YarnSisters, 40% New Zealand merino, 30% organic cotton, 30% New Zealand possum fiber (149 yds/40g) in color K01 Beach (A)

Row 3: Ch 1, sc 1 in each dc across, sc 1 in 3rd ch of beg ch-3, turn.

• 1 skein Kauri Fingering by Zealana Performa Series imported by The YarnSisters, 60% NZ merino, 30% possum, 10% silk (167 yds/40g) in color K08 (B)

With A, ch 243 sts.

Rep rows 2 and 3 for patt.

SHAWL

Work rows 1–3 of patt once, then rep rows 2 and 3 a total of 18 times. Do not fasten off. Turn piece and join B. Pm in first st (beg of rnd).

Border Rnd 1: Sc evenly around, join. Rnd 2: Work 2 sc in each sc, join. Rnds 3 and 4: Rep rnd 1. Fasten off.

FINISHING Weave in ends. Block. p

• U.S. size H-8 (5mm) crochet hook • Stitch marker • Yarn needle

Yarn alternatives Save: Fino by Manos Del Uruguay Spend: O’Keefe by Abstract Fiber Splurge: Serenity Silk by Zan Yarn Garden

DETAILS Gauge Gauge is not essential for this project.

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Rattan Wrap

5 4 3 2 1

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Back to School Just in time for fall, this soft and huggable school bus is full of adorable details like a stop sign, fenders, bumpers, and hubcaps. With a little bit of felt and some imagination, you can even add some smiling faces to the school bus windows! Designed by Megan Kreiner of MK Crochet / MK Knits


Special techniques

Skill level: Easy Skills used: • Single crochet Finished measurements: 13" long x 5" high Yarn weight:

Adjustable ring: Make a large loop with yarn leaving a 4" tail. With hook, draw the working yarn through the loop; ch 1, follow the pattern instructions from here. Once the first rnd of sts is complete, pull tail snug to close the ring.

3

Yarn used: Ultra Pima by Cascade Yarns

MATERIALS • 1 skein Ultra Pima by Cascade Yarns, 100% Pima cotton (220 yds/100g) in each of colors 3747 Gold (A), 3754 True Black (B), 3728 White (C), 3759 Taupe (D), 3713 Wine (E) • U.S. size D-3 (3.25mm) crochet hook • Stitch markers • Polyester fiberfill

Surface sc: Draw a loop of yarn through the surface of work, ch 1. Proceed to insert crochet hook through the surface stitches and sc to create a line of stitches. When turning a corner, sc 3 in a surface stitch. To learn how to create the surface sc, visit us online at www.LoveofCrochet.com.

Notes When changing color, stop just before completing the last st in the old color (2 loops on hook). Complete st with new color, then proceed as directed.

• Yarn needle

Yarn alternatives Save: Long Meadow by Valley Yarns Spend: Cotton Classic Light by Tahki Yarns Splurge: Illaris by Mirasol

Unless otherwise directed, work rnds continuously, do not join. Mark end of rnds and move marker as work progresses.

BUS Sides, bottom, and roof

DETAILS Gauge Gauge is not essential for this project.

With A, loosely ch 57. Row 1: Working in back ridge loops, sc 1 in 2nd ch from hook, sc 55, turn. (56 sts) Rows 2–15: Ch 1, sc 56, turn. Row 16: In flo and working on WS, ch 1, sc 37; change to C, sc 8; change to A, sc 11, turn.

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Row 17: Ch 1, sc 11; change to C, sc 8; change to A, sc 37, turn. Row 18: Ch 1, sc 37; change to C, sc 8; change to A, sc 11, turn. Row 19: Ch 1, sc 11; change to C, sc 8; change to A, sc 37, turn. Row 20: Ch 1, change to B, sc 37; change to C, sc 8; change to A, sc 11, turn. Row 21: Ch 1, sc 11; change to C, sc 8; change to A, sc 37, turn. Row 22: Ch 1, change to B, sc 37; change to C, sc 8; change to A, sc 11, turn. Row 23: Ch 1, sc 11; change to C, sc 8; change to A, sc 37, turn. Row 24: Ch 1, sc 37; change to C, sc 8; change to A, sc 9, sc2tog, turn. (55 sts) Row 25: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc 8; change to C, sc 8; change to B, sc 37, turn. (54 sts) Row 26: Ch 1, change to A, sk first ch, sc 2, *change to C, sc 6; change to A, sc 1; rep from * 4 more times; change to C, sc 8; change to A, sc 2, turn. (47 sts) Row 27: Ch 1, sc 2; change to C, sc 8, *change to A, sc 1; change to C, sc 6; rep from * 4 more times; change to A, sc 2, turn. Row 28: Ch 1, sc 2, *change to C, sc 6; change to A, sc 1; rep from * 4 more times; change to C, sc 8; change to A, sc 2, turn. Row 29: Ch 1, sc 2; change to C, sc 8, *change to A, sc 1; change to C, sc 6; rep from * 4 more times; change to A, sc 2, turn. Row 30: Ch 1, sc 2, *change to C, sc 6; change to A, sc 1; rep from * 4 more times; change to C, sc 8; change to A, sc 2, turn.

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Row 31: Ch 1, sc 2; change to C, sc 8, *change to A, sc 1; change to C, sc 6; rep from * 4 more times; change to A, sc 2, turn.

Row 12: Ch 1, sc 2; change to C, sc 6; change to A, sc 2, *sc 1; change to C, sc 6; change to A; rep from * 4 more times, sc 2, turn.

Row 12: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc 9, sc2tog, turn. (11 sts)

Rows 32 and 33: Ch 1, sc 47, turn.

Row 13: Ch 1, sc 2, *change to C, sc 6; change to A, sc 1; rep from * 4 more times, sc 2; change to C, sc 6; change to A, sc 2, turn.

Row 17: Ch 1, 2 sc in next sc, sc 9, 2 sc in next sc, turn. (13 sts)

Row 34: Ch 1, in flo; sc 47, turn. Rows 35–51: Ch 1, sc 47, turn. Fasten off. Row 1: Holding piece with RS facing up and working in blo, rejoin A to the far right stitch of the foundation row, ch 1, sc 56, turn. (56 sts) Rows 2–4: Ch 1, sc 56, turn. Row 5: Ch 1, change to B, sc 45; change to A, sc 11, turn. Row 6: Ch 1, sc 56, turn. Row 7: Ch 1, change to B, sc 45; change to A, sc 11, turn.

Row 14: Ch 1, sc 2; change to C, sc 6; change to A, sc 2, *sc 1; change to C, sc 6; change to A; rep from * 4 more times, sc 2, turn. Row 15: Ch 1, sc 2, *change to C, sc 6; change to A, sc 1; rep from * 4 more times, sc 2; change to C, sc 6; change to A, sc 2, turn. Row 16: Ch 1, sc 2; change to C, sc 6; change to A, sc 2, *sc 1; change to C, sc 6; change to A; rep from * 4 more times, sc 2, turn. Rows 17 and 18: Ch 1, sc 47, turn.

Row 8: Ch 1, sc 56, turn. Row 9: Ch 1, sc 54, sc2tog, turn. (55 sts) Row 10: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc 8; change to B, sc 45, turn. (54 sts) Row 11: Ch 1, change to A, sc 2, *change to C, sc 6; change to A, sc 1; rep from * 4 more times, sc 2; change to C, sc 6; change to A, sc 2, turn. (47 sts)

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Love of Crochet | Fall 2014

Rows 13–16: Ch 1, sc 11, turn. (11 sts)

Row 18: Ch 1, in blo; sc 1; change to C, 2 sc in next sc, sc 11, 2 sc in next sc; change to A, sc 1, turn. (15 sts) Rows 19–23: Ch 1, sc 1; change to C, sc 13; change to A, sc 1, turn. Rows 24–25: Ch 1, sc 15, turn. Row 26: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc 11, sc2tog, turn. (13 sts) Row 27: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc 9, sc2tog, turn. (11 sts) Row 28: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc 7, sc2tog, turn. (9 sts) Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.

Bus front With A, loosely ch 16.

Bus back

Row 1: Working in back ridge loops, sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across, turn. (15 sts)

With A, loosely ch 16.

Rows 2–10: Ch 1, sc 15, turn.

Row 1: Working in back ridge loops, sc 1 in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across, turn. (15 sts)

Row 11: Ch 1, in blo; sc2tog, sc 11, sc2tog, turn. (13 sts)

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Rows 2–10: Ch 1, sc 15, turn. Rows 11–16: Ch 1, sc 1; change to C (keep yarn tails in back of work), sc 13; change to A, sc 1, turn.

Rnd 5: *Sc 3, 2 sc in next sc; rep from * 5 more times. (30 sts)

Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.

Rnds 6 and 7: Sc 30.

Rows 17 and 18: Ch 1, sc 15, turn.

Rnd 8: *Sc 3, sc2tog; rep from * 5 more times. (24 sts)

Fender (make 4)

Row 19: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc 11, sc2tog, turn. (13 sts)

Rnd 9: *Sc 2, sc2tog; rep from * 5 more times. (18 sts)

Rnd 1: Sc 6 in ring.

Row 20: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc 9, sc2tog, turn. (11 sts)

Rnd 10: *Sc 1, sc2tog; rep from * 5 more times. (12 sts)

Row 21: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc 7, sc2tog, turn. (9 sts)

Stuff wheel.

Tires (make 4) With B, make an adjustable ring. Rnd 1: Sc 6 in ring. Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around. (12 sts) Rnd 3: *Sc 1, 2 sc in next sc; rep from * 5 more times. (18 sts) Rnd 4: *Sc 2, 2 sc in next sc; rep from * 5 more times. (24 sts)

Rnd 11: Sc2tog 6 times. (6 sts) Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Close hole. Thread the yarn tail back and forth through the center of the tire 3-4 times, pulling tightly as you sew to shape the tire.

With A, make an adjustable ring. Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around. (12 sts) Rnds 3–17: Sc 12. Rnd 18: Sc2tog 6 times. (6 sts) Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.

Front bumper With B, loosely ch 26.

With D, make an adjustable ring.

Row 1: Working in back ridge loops, sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across, turn. (25 sts)

Rnd 1: Sc 6 in ring.

Rows 2–8: Ch 1, sc 25, turn.

Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around. (12 sts)

Fasten off. Fold lengthwise and whip stitch first and last rows tog.

Hubcaps (make 4)

Back bumper With B, loosely ch 21. Row 1: Working in back ridge loops, sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across, turn. (20 sts) Rows 2–8: Ch 1, sc 20, turn. (20 sts) Fasten off. Fold lengthwise and whip stitch first and last rows tog.

Grille With D, loosely ch 11. Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across, turn. (10 sts) Row 2: Sl st 10, turn. Row 3: Ch 1, sc 10, turn.

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Rows 4–7: Rep rows 2 and 3.

Brake lights (make 4)

Row 8: Sl st 10, turn.

With E, make an adjustable ring.

Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.

Rnd 1: Sc 4 in ring. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.

Headlights (make 2) With C, loosely ch 4.

Stop sign (make 2)

Row 1: Sc 1 in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across, turn. (3 sts)

Starting with E, make an adjustable ring.

Row 2: Ch 1, sc 3.

Rnd 1: Sc 8 in ring.

Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.

Rnd 2: 3 sc in each st around (24 sts)

Top lights (make 4) Starting with E, make an adjustable ring. Rnd 1: Sc 4 in ring. Change to B. Rnd 2: In blo, 2 sc in each sc around. (8 sts) Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.

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With C, embroider the word “stop” on the RS of each sign. Place WS of signs tog and back stitch along edge.

FINISHING Sew bottom and side edges of bus to the bus front and back pieces. Sc the top/roof edges together to create a ridge detail, stuff before closing seam. Shape hood by running a length of A back and forth between the row directly below the bottom of windshield and the bottom of bus, pulling gently.

Flatten and sew fenders to the edges of tires. Attach tires and edges of fenders to sides of bus. Attach hubcaps to tires. Wrap front bumper around front of bus and fenders and sew in place. Wrap back bumper around back and sides of bus and sew in place. Attach headlights to fenders and grille to front of bus directly above front bumper. With B, surface sc around side windows, back window, door, and around just sides and top of windshield as shown. With a double strand of B, add window pane details to bus door and side windows with long stitches. Attach stop sign to side of bus in space behind driver’s window. Attach top lights above corners of front and back windshield. Leave enough space between top lights in front to embroider “school” or “bus” in B as shown. Attach 2 pairs of brake lights to back of bus below back window. p

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Resources

Love the yarns in this issue? Ask your local yarn shop or check here for resources.

Stylish sweaters Chesapeake Sweater Willow Yarns www.WillowYarns.com Cityscape Sweater Imperial Yarn www.ImperialYarn.com Iridescent Crescent Berroco www.Berroco.com Sequoia Vest Cascade Yarns www.CascadeYarns.com Silver Swing Jacket Valley Yarns www.Yarn.com

Accessories and fun stuff

Build Your Own Bag Lion Brand www.LionBrand.com Cambridge Hat and Scarf Knit Picks www.KnitPicks.com Nottingham Cowl Berroco www.Berroco.com Rattan Wrap Zealana Performa Series imported by The YarnSisters www.TheYarnSisters.com Rocky Mountain Sunset Classic Elite Yarns www.ClassicEliteYarns.com

Mondrian Throw Lion Brand www.LionBrand.com Squash Trio Plymouth Yarn www.PlymouthYarn.com Cascade Yarns www.CascadeYarns.com

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Basic crochet instructions Standard yarn weight system Standards and guidelines for crochet and knitting: categories of yarn, gauge ranges, and recommended needle and hook sizes Yarn weight symbol and category names

0

1

2

3

4

5

6

Lace

Super Fine

Fine

Light

Medium

Bulky

Super Bulky

Type of yarns in category

Fingering 10 count crochet thread

Sock, Fingering, Baby

Sport, Baby

DK, Light Worsted

Worsted, Afghan, Aran

Chunky, Craft, Rug

Bulky Roving

Knit gauge range* in stockinette stitch to 4 inches

33–40** sts

27–32 sts

23–26 sts

21–24 sts

16–20 sts

12–15 sts

6–11 sts

Recommended needle in metric size range

1.5–2.25 mm

2.25–3.25 mm

3.25–3.75 mm

3.75–4.5 mm

4.5–5.5 mm

5.5–8 mm

8 mm and larger

Recommended needle in U.S. size range

000 to 1

1 to 3

3 to 5

5 to 7

7 to 9

9 to 11

11 and larger

Crochet gauge* ranges in single crochet to 4 inches

32–42 double crochets**

21–32 sts

16–20 sts

12–17 sts

11–14 sts

8–11 sts

5–9 sts

Recommended hook in metric size range

Steel*** 2.25–3.5 1.6—1.4mm mm regular hook 2.25 mm

3.5–4.5 mm

4.5–5.5 mm

5.5–6.5 mm

6.5–9 mm

9mm and larger

Recommended hook in U.S. size range

Steel*** B–1 to E–4 6, 7, 8 regular hook B–1

E–4 to 7

7 to I–9

I–9 to K–101/2

K–101/2 to M–13

M–13 and larger

Skill levels for crocheting   

Beginner Projects for first-time crocheters using basic stitches. Minimal shaping.

  

Easy Projects using yarn with basic stitches, repetitive stitch patterns, simple color changes, and simple shaping and finishing.

  

Intermediate Projects using a variety of techniques, such as basic lace patterns or color patterns, mid-level shaping, and finishing.

  

Experienced Projects with intricate stitch patterns, techniques, and dimension, such as non-repeating patterns, multi-color techniques, fine threads, small hooks, detailed shaping, and refined finishing.

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* These are guidelines only: They reflect the most commonly used gauges and needle or hook sizes for specific yarn categories. ** Lace weight yarns are usually knitted or crocheted on larger needles and hooks to create lacy, openwork patterns. Accordingly, a gauge range is difficult to determine. Always follow the gauge stated in your pattern. *** Steel crochet hooks are sized differently from regular hooks — the higher the number, the smaller the hook, which is the reverse of regular hook sizing. A Standard & Guidelines booklet from the Craft Yarn Council of America is available at www.craftyarncouncil. com/standards.html. Click on the “Downloadable Guidelines PDF” link on the left side of the page.

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Breaking the language barrier! U.K. and U.S. crochet terms have different meanings, which can create difficulty for the crocheter. Here’s a handy reference guide to help overcome any misunderstanding: U.S. term

U.K. term

Chain

Chain

Slip Stitch

Slip Stitch

Single Crochet

Double Crochet

Half Double Crochet

Half Treble Crochet

Double Crochet

Treble Crochet

Treble Crochet

Double Treble Crochet

Double Treble Crochet

Triple Treble Crochet

ABBREVIATIONS alt • alternate

inc • increase

beg • beginning

in • inch(es)

bet • between

lp(s) • loop(s)

bl/blo • back loop only (i.e. insert

nc • not closed

hook under back loop only) BPdc • back post double crochet

patt • pattern

ch(s) • chain stitch(es)

pm • place marker

ch sp(s) • chain space(s)

prev • previous

cl (s) • clusters

rem • remaining

cm • centimeters

rep • repeat

cont • continue

rnd • round

dc • double crochet

RS • right side

dc2tog • work 2 dc together

sc • single crochet

dec • decrease

sc2tog • work 2 sc together

dtr • double treble crochet

sk • skip

dtr2tog • work 2 dtr together

sl st • slip st

ea • each

sp(s) • space(s)

fl/flo • front loop only (insert

st(s) • stitch(es)

hook under front loop only) foll • following FPdc • front post double crochet gp(s) or gr(s) • group(s) hk • hook Shutterstock

mm • millimeter(s)

hdc • half double crochet

CHARTS KEY Slip stitch Slip stitch - back loop Chain Single crochet Half double crochet Double crochet

t-ch(s) • turning chain(s) tog • together tr • treble

Treble crochet Double treble crochet

tr2tog • work 2 tr together WS • wrong side yo/yoh • yarn over hook

Worked in front loop Worked in back loop

hdc2tog • work 2 hdc together

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How to CROCHET:

The Basics Q GRIPPING THE HOOK

PART 1 Holding your hook and yarn To crochet successfully, it’s important that you hold the yarn and hook in a correct and comfortable manner. This will ensure that your tension is accurate throughout the project. There are two main ways of holding the hook and yarn in crochet – you can choose whichever of these, or variations, that are natural for you.

A

B

Option A: Pencil grip

Option B: Knife grip

Hold the hook in your dominant hand as you would a pencil, approx 2" from the tip of the hook.

Hold the hook in your dominant hand as you would a knife, approx 2" from the tip of the hook.

Q HOLDING THE YARN Letting the yarn slide through your fingers, especially over your little finger, will help to maintain an even tension.

A

B

Option A: Forefinger hold

Option B: Middle-finger hold

Wrap the ball end of the yarn around the little finger of your other hand, passing it up between your middle and ring fingers to the front of your hand and over the other two fingers. Hold the work steady with your thumb and forefinger, and use your middle finger to create tension.

Wrap the ball end of the yarn around the little finger of your other hand, passing it up between your middle and ring fingers to the front of your hand and over the other two fingers. Hold the work steady with your thumb and middle finger, and use your forefinger to create tension.

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Q THE SLIP KNOT

PART 2 Getting started…

1

2

Step 1: Make a loop in the yarn.

3

Step 2: With your crochet hook, catch the ball working end of the yarn and draw through loop.

Q MAKING A CHAIN

Step 3: Pull firmly on yarn and hook to tighten knot and create first loop.

Q SLIP STITCH (SL ST)

1

Step 1: To make a chain, hold the tail end of the yarn and bring the yarn over the hook by passing the hook in front of the yarn, under and around it. Step 2: Keeping the yarn taut, draw the hook and yarn through the loop on the hook. Pull it through.

2

Step 3: Ensuring the stitches are fairly loose, repeat to make the number of chains required. To count the stitches, use the right side of the chain, or the one that has more visible and less twisted “V” shapes. Each “V” is one chain. Remember to count the slip knot as the first stitch, but do not count the loop on the hook.

3

Slip stitch is used to join one stitch to another or to join a stitch to another point. It’s usually made by picking up two strands of a stitch. Where sl st is used all over, you execute it in the same way, but only pick up the back loop. Insert the hook into the back loop of the next stitch and pass yarn over hook, as in chain stitch. Then draw yarn through both loops on stitch and repeat to end.

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Q SINGLE CROCHET (SC): The most basic crochet stitch

PART 3 Main crochet stitches‌

1

2

3

4

Step 1: Skip 2 ch and insert hook, front to back into next stitch, under top loop of next ch. Yarn over hook (yo). Step 2: Pull loop through to front, two loops on hook. Step 3: Yo. Step 4: Draw through both loops to complete the single crochet. Step 5: Work one sc into every ch to end. For next row, turn your work and chain 1, called a turning chain. Skip stitch at the base of the turning chain, then work a sc under both top loops of next st. When working any stitch in crochet, you must work through both loops of each stitch, unless the pattern calls for just working through either the front or back loop of next stitch. Work one sc into each stitch to end of row. Repeat this row for sc fabric (shown at right).

Q DOUBLE CROCHET (DC): A taller crochet stitch

1

Step 1: Yo.

2

Step 2: Insert hook in next stitch, from front to back. Yo and pull the loop through just the chain stitch.

5

Step 5: Two loops on hook.

96

6

Step 6: Yo.

Love of Crochet | Fall 2014

3

Step 3: Three loops on hook.

4

Step 4: Yo and draw the loop through the ďŹ rst two loops only.

7

Step 7: Draw through remaining two loops to complete double crochet. Repeat this along the row for dc fabric (shown above).

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Q HALF DOUBLE CROCHET (HDC): The second essential crochet stitch

1

Step 1: Yo, insert hook in next stitch, from front to back, and pull the loop through just the chain stitch.

3

2

Step 2: This creates three loops on the hook.

4

Steps 3 and 4: Yo, as for dc, but draw yarn through three remaining loops on hook together to complete half double.

Measuring gauge

PART 4 Q WORKING PATTERNS… Turn a row At the end of a row, when you turn the work to begin the next row, you need to complete a turning chain (t-ch) to get to the right height of the stitch you’re working, as demonstrated on the dc. This chain counts as the first stitch in the row and each technique, depending on its height, uses a different number of chains at the start of the row. sc = 1 t-ch

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Repeat the hdc along the row for hdc fabric (shown above).

hdc = 2 t-ch

dc = 3 t-ch

Before starting on a project, it’s advisable that you do a gauge swatch to ensure that you’re crocheting at the right tension. This enables you to correct any deviances from the working pattern before you begin, ensuring your project is the correct size. The swatch should be just over 4"(10cm) square. If the tension is wrong, you must re-work the swatch with larger or smaller hooks until you obtain the correct gauge. Measure out 4"(10cm) along a row and place markers. Measure out 4"(10cm) down the rows and place markers. Use these two sets of markers to count how many stitches and rows there are to 4"(10cm), and compare to the pattern’s gauge swatch. You may wish to take a few measurements in this way to create an average. Before starting a project, do a tension swatch.

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Web

Bonus!

For the complete pattern, please visit us online at www.LoveofCrochet.com

Bucket Bag Designed by Ashley Briggs Yarn used: Cotton-Ease by Lion Brand Yarns

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Love of Crochet | Fall 2014

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