Short break From Mumbai
Little Rann of Kutch
Rann Riders has a large dining area (top left) where guests meet at meals and share their wildlife-spotting stories; Pyramid-shaped steps (top right) lead to a large tank in front the Sun Temple in Modhera; Carvings of Vishnu, his incarnations, and several apsaras (bottom left) adorn the walls of Rani ki Vav; Local women (bottom right) sell handcrafted jewellery and embroidered fabric to tourists.
Salt panning is the main source of income for most for the Agaria community who live and work in the Rann for eight months a year.
STAY Budget Dhrangadhra is the closest train station to the Little Rann (18 km). It is possible to stay in this small town and take a day trip to the Wild Ass Sanctuary. Devjibhai Dhamecha offers homestays with small, clean rooms. They serve authentic Gujarati food and organise trips to the sanctuary (www.littlerann.com; 98255 48090; doubles `1,000 including all meals).
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THE GUIDE
There is an eco-camp near the village of Kidi, on the fringe of the sanctuary. The huts are not air-conditioned but well decorated and comfortable (www.littlerann.com; 98255 48090; doubles `2,000 including all meals).
Orientation The Little Rann of Kutch is located in the north of Gujarat, around 130 kilometres northwest of Ahmedabad.
Comfort Rann Riders, a resort in Dasada, on the outskirts of the Wild Ass Sanctuary, aims to recreate a village experience while providing amenities like air-conditioning, modern bathrooms, and even a swimming pool. The rooms are spacious and decorated with mirrors and local artwork. The safari guides here are well informed and friendly (www.rannriders.com; 99252 36014; doubles `4,500 including meals). Desert Coursers is a camp at Zainabad, next to the sanctuary, with ethnic huts around a lake. The owner Dhanraj Malik takes guests on safaris whenever he’s around. He is a great guide and knows the mammals and birds of the sanctuary well (www.desertcoursers.net; 027572 41333; doubles `2,500). n
Getting there Air Ahmedabad is the closest airport (130 km/3hours; `2,000 for a taxi from the airport). Direct flights are available from most major Indian cities. Rail Dhrangadhra is the nearest railway station, with daily trains to Mumbai. Rickshaws and taxis to Dhrangadhra town are available at the railway station (`150). Taxis also go to Dasada and Zainabad (`600). Road Dhrangadhra is one of the
access points to the sanctuary. It is located on the Ahmedabad highway and all buses from Ahmedabad to Kutch stop here. Dasada and Zainabad are other access points. The road from Ahmedabad is smooth and well maintained for the entire threehour drive.
ber to February is cool and is the best time to visit and spot migratory birds. The sanctuary is open during the summer
months of April and May but the weather is hot and it may be quite difficult to step out during the day.
• Patan • Modhera
Seasons The Little Rann gets flooded and inaccessible during the monsoon (June to August). The period from Septem-
Dasada • •
Zainabad
LITTLE RANN OF KUTCH
•
Dhrangadhra
TO MUMBAI
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dhritiman mukherjee (peacock), natasha sahgal (sun temple, sculpture at rani ki vav), poras chaudhary/images bank/getty images (local woman), urmimala nag (map)
certainly fun to window shop for. The Patola saris of Patan have a history that goes back a thousand years. Only two families are known to still produce this double ikat style of hand woven saris. The Salvi family in Patan have a workshop, part of which has been converted to a mini museum. Someone from the family is usually on hand to explain the process to visitors. Each sari takes an average of six months to weave (80 km/2 hours from the Rann).
Dhritiman mukherjee
shippers come here to seek the blessings of the hijras who live near the shrine (30 km/30 minutes from the Rann). Rani ki Vav This extravagant stepwell is one of the biggest in Gujarat. It consists of a multistorey pavilion, a dug well and a large tank for surplus water. A walk down the stairs takes you past hundreds of delicate carvings and statues. It is quite evident that this well was constructed not just to store water but also to provide a site for worship and socialising. The walls are covered with carvings of Parvati, Shiva, Vishnu, and other gods. Though it is believed to have been built between 1022 and 1063 A.D., the structure was excavated only in 1958 and is now very well preserved. Right next to the well is a big lawn, a great spot for a picnic lunch. A small museum stands outside the entrance and has a nice display on the history of the area’s architecture (70 km/1.5 hours from the Rann). Patola Saris Saris that cost two lakh rupees may not be on everyone’s shopping list, but are