SIMON SPURR MENSWEAR A/W11 Luxury custom-made fabrics were the focal point of the New York based designer’s most dramatic collection so far TEXT BY NATALIE LASANCE PHOTOGRAPHY BY MORGAN O’DONOVAN It’s been five years since Simon Spurr launched his menswear label, and this collection, which marks the third season since the main line separated from the sportswear line, is his most confident yet. The label has already established itself with its clean lines and superior fit but this collection added a hint of drama for a more serious and harder look. Luxury custom-made fabrics were the focal point of the New York based designer’s collection. Cashmere, wool and mohair tweeds made for stunning suits and overcoats perfect for the modern man, although there was a harder edge running through the collection such as the amber waxed cotton sports jacket with gold stripes or the fingerless leather driving gloves. The grey wool twill suit was another example of tough elegance although there was also a selection of much lighter, more delicate slim-cut suits of flannel and cashmere. Gold detailing was one of the only splashes of colour in a palette that was mostly black and various shades of grey. Gold snaps on a cotton marksman jacket and gold military buttons on a black cashmere/wool melton peacoat hinted at old-school swagger.