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NANCY COFFEY A SELECTION OF WORKS PATTERN CUTTING ‘14

‘Innovative Pattern Cutting’ | UAL: Central Saint Martins


CONTOUR/BODY FIT

Method 1: Using Designer Tape to create a corset based on design sketches.


Method 2: ‘Tape and Paper’ technique allows quick preparation of a corset pattern.


Experimentation and application of using fashion tape to create shapes for the basis of tops, shirts and corsets.


Tecnique allows the design to extend from the shoulder to as low as desired.


DIAGNOSTIC FLAT CUTTING COLLARS

Two different methods of cutting a Rever collar, flat draft & draping on the stand.


Four shirt collars/pattern exploring the variations in shape, height and distance on neck.


Pattern based on a classic Sailor Collar pattern with extra large roll, extending over the shoulder.


Sailor collar flat draft, quick method including the stand.


DIAGNOSTIC FLAT CUTTING DART MANIPULATION

Experimenting with manipulation of the bodice to create shape for the bust and shoulder blades.


Creating blocks from the stand. Flat draft method for removing bust dart creating a dartless block.


DIAGNOSTIC FLAT CUTTING SLEEVES

Realible drafting method for a sleeve from the measurements of front & back armholes.


Flat drafting of ‘Raglan & Gusset’ sleeves.


STRUCTURE & FORM

Pattern pieces of Alexander McQueen’s Two piece Suit.


Alexander McQueen, Spring / Summer ‘99. Two piece suit.


Development and Process of the suit jacket, created from draping on the stand.


Second Toile. Adjustment to the overall fit and correcting collar roll, ‘M’ shape further up towards the houlder.


Pierre Cardin, 1966.


Adjustments to 3-dimensional bust area to increase size and reposition dart along with moving shoulder in 1.2cm.


First Pattern, Hermes Coat. Pattern created from draping on stand. 30 minute exercise.


Pierre Hermes Fall ‘14. Ready to Wear.


SHAPE THROUGH CUT SPIRAL CUTTING

Interesting way of cutting fitted garments in such a way you have to think as the seams wrap around the body at a 45 째 angle.


Normal straight 90 째 lines become 45 째 when using spiral cutting.


The patterns are created on the flat, front and back are overlapping allowing seam to run through and intersect.


Pattern at top is garment on left page and the pattern below is the front and back of a shirt.


MODELLING


Hussein Chalayan


MODELLING

Draping shift dress on the stand, fitted and corrected accordingly before modelling the layered top part with paper folds...


Folding the paper based from the size of the shift dress and cutting the neck and armholes. Placement of layers is unequally spaced.


DRAPING

Vivienne Westwood


When working on front pins should never cross to back. Important to see side seams when draping.


DRAPING

Marking Side seams with dots (more accurate then a line) and a ‘L’ shape at the meeting points.


The art of draping : Practice, Patients and Persistence


CĂŠline Spring / Summer 2011 Ready To Wear.


Front pattern piece also becomes the sleeve as it folds on itself. Back becoming a seperate pattern piece. Draped on the stand.


Adjustments notes: lift 3.5cm at front sleeve opening, create more of an ‘S’ shape. Slash & open sleeve.


Viktor & Rolf Fall 2011 Ready To Wear.


First patterns made in an afternoon excersie, using both flat and draping pattern cutting techniques.


Pierre Cardin 1981.


First toile of Pierre Cardin sleeve, pins are holding in place further adjustment of taking 1.2 cm from each side of sleeve.


FINAL PROJECT PROCESS & DEVELOPMENT

Jil Sander Fall 2009 Ready To Wear.


Working Drawings for prepartion before beginning the task. Final pattern pieces below.


Beginning with sewing coat block with sleeve and side panel. Adjust and correct as seen in image two...


Second toile cut & sewed, slashed & opened. Side panel removed and shaping of side seam begins with creating & underarm gusset.


Development & Process. Cut & Sew. Slash & Open.


Tuck & Pin. Create Shape & Volume. All seams leading to the same point...


Fashion tape to mark design lines, easy to change and remove.


Collar was created with a piece of fabric, neck measurements marked and then draping the shape on the stand.


Constantly adding and then taking away and adding once more to create an effectless tear drop shape.


Final adjustments made to the front to create a line that would hold nicely around bust area and waist line...


Slashing the center back all the way across into sleeve, this releases a pull allowing it to sit in place accordingly.


Adjustments to side panels to create more volume, stop collapsing seen in left picture along with moving seams slightly over.


FINAL PROJECTFINISHED & FINAL TOILE


Nancy Coffey coffey.nancy90@gmail.com http://nancycoffey.weebly.com/

+447475750337 +49 15902146748


For Print.Nancy Coffey 'Innovative Pattern Cutting'  

Portfolio with a selection of works produced during my studies at Central Saint Martins 'Innovative Pattern Cutting for Graduates & Professi...

For Print.Nancy Coffey 'Innovative Pattern Cutting'  

Portfolio with a selection of works produced during my studies at Central Saint Martins 'Innovative Pattern Cutting for Graduates & Professi...

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