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THE HUARAZ TELEGRAPH Made in Huaraz

July 2013

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Festival del Andinismo 2013: great success Event also calls attention for climate changes as the Pastoruri Glacier keeps receding

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Festival del Andinismo is the only professional outdoor sports event organising a rock climbing championship, a ski and snowboard competition and a mountain biking concourse

Peru´s most famous mountaineer wears his heart on his sleeve

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Ortega in a 1992 photograph being the first ever Peruvian reaching the summit of Mt. Everest

ADVERTISEMENT: For the best grilled chicken:

A letter to THT

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A reader´s contribution from Huanchaco

German visits Sport Ancash

page 14 Rene Altmann tries to see as many matches possible in Peru within five weeks

Expat in Huaraz

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Continuation of our expat interviews

Special offer for our readers:

Buy 2 drinks & pay only 1! See page 7 for our special offer


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The Editorial

The Huaraz Telegraph freely available! Apart from i-Perú, cafés and many restaurants, The Huaraz Telegraph is also available for free at the following hostels and hotels in Huaraz. The Huaraz Telegraph does not recommend any hostel in particular as we are completely neutral.

The Huaraz Telegraph JULY 2013 Wandering and wondering

Walking past garbage and stray dogs, I ask myself if I belong here. Am I a stranger? I certainly am. Have I well adapted to this new life? I think so. I am the hero of my own story and take life as it comes. Life is full of opportunities and sometimes chances are so clear that they are overlooked and thus missed. I am trying to do the right thing and if I see wrong, I fight. Not physically but with metaphors and sarcasm, which are better for society. While still wandering, I not only wonder but also ask myself ¨How, for heaven’s sake… How come this place is so rotten?¨ Maybe the answer can be found while enjoying the quietness and beauty nature has to offer in one of the many parks that flourish in the city. I surprisingly struggle to find one. I even rushed to the library to look up the definition of the word parque. Another strange thing, I do not find the word written anywhere, though concrete is clearly the interpretation of the word park by the people. At some point, someone yelled at me, telling me to go back to my own country. Shall I do them such a favour? That would be generous from my side. Too easy, I am a fighter and won´t give up easily. I looked around me and, after a certain time, I noticed that people looked differently at me. Was it because of my haircut or was it because I bought new shoes? Someone told me earlier that envy is rife within the people here. The more successful you are, the harder they will try to make you fall. Wondering through the streets I see the same disorganised mess as many years ago and probably thirty before that. Doesn’t anyone care? I guess not. Is littering a hobby? I wonder if people are taught to hit the horn a million times a day when they buy their driver´s license. Must be, or maybe people in the city are born with a gene that prohibits them developing self-conscience and self-esteem. In the meantime, I get some eggs thrown at me; they miss their target. This is probably another message from above, although the eggs came from behind, really. I come across the boulevard along the river. Others would call it a dump but this is another park surprisingly. Surrounded by spectacular mountains, it´s sadly very hard to find a quiet spot with trees, flowers and butterflies. If they have left, where did they go? And why am I still here? Why did I come here in the first place? Was it the architecture? Was it because of the friendliness of the people or was it an escape from reality? Was I not able to live up to the standards that were set for me? No one is guiltier than I am, I am afraid. I chose to live here; I chose to become part of this bubble. Is there a way out? Birds could just fly away but human beings have responsibilities and also dreams. Maybe I am the one who´s mistaken and the others have got it right! That person could call himself a stranger, right? Am I going to surrender? I wake up in my own perspiration and conclude it was just a weird nightmare. Until I leave my house and start wandering through the streets again. Rex Broekman Founder and editor of The Huaraz Telegraph

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The Huaraz Telegraph JULY 2013

Local News

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Festival del Andinismo 2013 aiming for tourism boost Two days before the Festival del Andinismo kicked off, we had a small interview with Benjamin Morales who is the president of Save the Rajus (Save the Mountains) and foremost organiser of the festival, about his objectives and expectations. What can you tell us about the objectives of the festival? The main objective is the promotion of the area but also – and not less important – to improve the life of the local people. If we can gather an increase in tourism, it will bring people to new areas, and the communities living around the areas of the festival will therefore benefit. To reach our target we have settled two goals: bring in professional athletes who are the best in their category (when these athletes see the potential of the places around Huaraz, they will spread the word and this will hopefully result in the fact that others become aware of the beauty Huaraz and its surroundings have to offer); the second goal is to promote the event through national and international press. This year we have flown in the exchampion of rock climbing (Edu Marín from Spain) and another internationally recognised athlete (Toti Valés). Their presence will generate more awareness and increase the amount of participants as well, which we have been able to do every year. In comparison with last year we have more international participants at the rock-climbing championship and also at the ski and snow boarding event on Saturday. The biggest difference compared to other years is that the national championship of cross-country will be held here. This is something we are very proud of. This is the result of the two previous years where we have tried to improve the conditions and level of professionalism. Now, because this is our third consecutive year, we hope also to have more visitors at the organised events. What are the main differences with this year´s event compared with last year´s? We have tried to learn from the mistakes made in the past and improve on all areas where possible! This year for example we have tried to give sponsors a broader exposure because (and you will understand this better than others, trying to run a freely available newspaper here in Huaraz) without sponsors, this event wouldn’t be possible at all. The event is free, which means that there is no entrance fee and people can enjoy, for example, our closure concert at Wilcahuain, for free. The transportation towards the Pastoruri Glacier and the Forest of Rocks (Hatun Machay) is also free; all this thanks to our sponsors, of course. There is another thing I would like to mention and this is maybe the biggest difference compared to previous years: for ages we were backed by a big, nationally known sponsor who invested much money to cover most of

The Huaraz Telegraph Benjamin Morales (standing on the right from the sign) at the opening day of the Festival del Andinismo in Hatun Machay

the expenses; this year, we have tried to make it a locally supported event with an international stature. Luckily for us, three of the better-known producers of liquors have united and backed us. These three small local producers are Licor de Coca of Creperie Patrick, Mestizo with Pisco de Muña and micro-brewery Sierra Andina. These three have united and asked if we could give them the opportunity to sell their brands to the public. In previous years, the other main sponsor of our event prohibited the sales of other drinks apart from theirs. With now three main sponsors, we believe to be able to offer a wider variety of drinks to the visitors and because all three are based in Huaraz, this shall have an enormous positive impact on their brand awareness. And not only in Huaraz, but also in other parts of the country as we

expect to have many visitors from Lima for example, due to a larger weekend as normal. This is the first time I have seen local businesses investing their money in a local event to promote their brand and tourism in general. Three small local businesses have joined forces and together they show other businesses that things are possible in Huaraz, as long as we cooperate. We could have had many other local sponsors but unfortunately, many have turned us down. This is important to mention, because many years ago there used to be a similar event called Semana del Andinismo, but this event died because the organisers became tired of knocking at the doors of local businesses who were not willing to sponsor the event. This is something that bothers me because this event will benefit all

The Huaraz Telegraph Edu Marin was one of the participants at Hatun Fest at Hatun Machay

local businesses but unfortunately some small businesses do not want to invest, they only want to take advantage of the situation while others pay the bills… When would you call the event a success? The event will be a success when there is sufficient and positive feedback from sponsors, participants of the sporting championships, and the visitors. It will be very difficult to measure the success because we believe in longterm planning and exposure. If we have more participants next year and have increased our sponsor income to cover – and maybe increase –the number of events, we can say that we did a good job last year. During the forthcoming year, we hope to see more mentions of Huaraz and possible outdoor activities reported by the national press and the social media. People should know that this festival is organised to promote tourism and that they should not have to wait a whole year to practice outdoors sports. There is rock climbing and mountain biking the whole year around. Time will tell. Personally, I hope to see many visitors and on Sunday at 6 pm, I hope to call the event a success while enjoying a drink at the closing stages of the rock concert. There is one last thing I would like to mention: the municipality of Recuay was one of the first to contact us and the municipality of Huaraz has offered their contribution. A special thank you to our Mayor Vladimir Meza who personally tried to support us when no budget was available. And although he was obstructed by his councilmen, I can confirm that the mayor has tried to support our event.

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Local News

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The Huaraz Telegraph JULY 2013

sports and has pioneered adventure sports and eco-touristic events in Peru for over 32 years.

The Huaraz Telegraph Some of the mountain bikers posing for a picture. Picture courtesy of Zendy Parra

The Huaraz Telegraph was present at the first two days of the Festival del Andinismo at Hatun Machay and the melting glacier of Pastoruri. For those who have missed the festival, here is a small review of all the happenings at the last weekend of June. The main aim of the Festival del Andinismo Cordillera Blanca was to promote sustainable and environmentally friendly economic development in Ancash, by promoting the virtues of the Callejon de Huaylas and Conchucos as the ideal spot for the practice of adventure sports thus improving the quality of living of the local population who, one way or another, depends on the most important economic activity in the area: tourism. The Callejon de Huaylas is home to the highest tropical mountain range in the world, found within the Huascaran National Park, a World Heritage Site and the core of the Huascarán Biosphere Reserve, one of just three biosphere reserves existing in Peru. Its mountains have always been one of the most popular destinations for extreme-sports lovers all around the globe. It is in this context that the Festival del Andinismo Cordillera Blanca was born, as a succession of days that alternate different adventure sports events such as skiing, snowboarding, climbing, mountain biking (cross-country, downhill, BMX) as well as mountain film screenings, presentations about environmental issues and open-door concerts, all surrounded by the beauty of the natural landscapes of the Callejon de Huaylas.

The festival was organised by Save the Rajus (Save the Mountains) in cooperation with ALDEA (Latin-American Adventure Sports Association). Save the Rajus is a non-profit association with more than ten years of history in organising extreme-sports and adventure-sports competitions, and raises environmental awareness through events such as the nine editions of the Tour Festivals and the Andes Challenge

The opening day took place at Hatun Machay, also known as the Forest of Rocks. Hatun Machay is a rock forest formed by erosion and is one of the most impressive geological attractions of the region. Hatun Machay (Big Cave in Quechua language) is a mere hour and a half from Huaraz, situated in the Cordillera Negra (Black Mountain Range) at an altitude of 4,290m above sea level. This zone is home to the amazing stone forest and to an interesting array of rock formations. The area covers over 200 hectares in total and offers in its many sectors caves, ruins, stone carvings and paintings dating back over 10,000 years, making it the largest rock climbing centre in Peru. There is an extensive variety of all levels sport routes from absolute beginner to the truly hard core. Apart from climbing, this place also suits alternative activities such as mountain biking, trekking, horse riding, and archaeological and mystic tours. In cooperation with the Catac Community, the Pampas Chicos community and Refugio Hatun Machay,

The Huaraz Telegraph Perfect weather conditions and spectacular stunts just before heading home

Non-Stop Peru. Save the Rajus seeks to position Peru as the ideal venue for the practice of extreme sports worldwide, while generating environmental awareness, promoting afforestation and a commitment to care for the environment, mainly in what concerns the conservation of the glaciers. ALDEA is an institution dedicated to eco-tourism and adventure

eight new climbing routes have been made available by an international team of experts in order to set up a competitive championship. Eye catchers were the Spanish ex-champion in rock climbing Edu Marín, and his compatriot, Toti Valés. The second day of the festival took place on top of the melting glacier of

The Huaraz Telegraph Rock climbing at Hatun Machay

Pastoruri. Once a year, the National Park of Huascaran gives its permission to hold a ski and snowboarding competition in this protected area. Unfortunately, the current state of the glacier is shockingly bad and only the right protection can save this unique piece of ice from disappearing. Among the competitors were members of the Team Sand Board Pro (Ica Sand Board Association), as well as participants from Lima and Trujillo, and contenders from Switzerland. The highlight of the day was the concluding extreme-jump activity, which generated much applause from the spectators and press. As the second day took place at an altitude of more than 5,000 metres above sea level, not everybody was able to make it up there. Some members of the Lima press struggled at high altitude and had to turn around and view the spectacle from a distance. Those who attended the successful event witnessed a competitive ski and snowboard event with perfect weather conditions. The concluding day of the Festival del Andinismo took place at Wilcahuain where there was cross country biking from Huanchac towards Wilcawain, downhill mountain biking and finally at the closing ceremony people were treated with a rock and heavy metal concert with local bands and Richard Colonia with a guest appearance from Sylvia Aiko Rider. Highlight for the local visitors was the presence of the winner of TV programme Yo Soy, with his well received Robert Plant imitation.

clinica San Pablo

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The Huaraz Telegraph JULY 2013

Advertorial/Publirreportaje

Quality Craft Beer in Huaraz From the makers of SIERRA ANDINA beer

Here in Huaraz our ‘season’ is well underway now and the streets and cafes are teaming with climbers and adventure seekers from many different countries. As part of the business community here, I can speak for many, that we are very thankful for all of you who take the time to visit our town and area as many of our businesses really do rely on your contributions. In addition, you all help make Huaraz a cooler and more interesting place to be! – So thank you for your visit! In this rendition of the The Huaraz Telegraph let’s look a little closer at the beer served at Trivio. As you know, Trivio is the in-town taproom for the local craft brewery; Sierra Andina. As you may already know, we named the restaurant TRIVIO – from the Latin word Trivium which means “the junction of three trails”. It was at these trail junctions that the people would take a moment on their way to the market or to work and catch up on what is going on and chat about the day-to-day stuff in their lives; hence the word ‘trivial’ has come to mean ‘day-to-day topics’. As the name implies, our new restaurant TRIVIO is also a junction of three trails – As our forefathers did before us, we hope that you too will stop at trivio and take a load off, relax and chat about the day to day stuff of this wild and crazy life! * The trail or story of our beer that we brew, * The trail or story of the food that we prepare * The story of our own organic coffee that we grow and toast. So, join me on a stroll down the ‘trail’ of the beer that we brew. A brief history of our brewery, Sierra Andina. It started way back in 2008 with an inspired idea and like most ideas it appeared a little far out of reach – but the more we thought about it the more it seemed like a great thing to do! It took a couple of years to get the plan just right and then we spent another year scraping together the capital needed to get the thing rolling. After countless power-point presentations to potential investors, hundreds of phone calls and lots and lots of dead ends and denials we finally had the capital together to move forward. It was an

5 we have to scratch our heads to figure out what the solution is or really what to do! But we love it and hope you do too! To help us stay on track and not get too carried away with things that do not make us a better company – we try to stick with what we call our 5 guiding principles. Our company’s 5 guiding principles are: 1.

Brew great beer consistently

2. Hire, train and treat our employees in the best way possible 3. Develop and maintain strong positive relationships with our customers 4. Be a disciplined and innovative company 5.

Up goes the sign on the brewery - an exciting day

exciting day. We found an engineer in Lima called Alberto, who was up to the task of helping us design the equipment and build it. Alberto did a marvelous job putting it all together for us and in May 2011 the truck rolled up to Huaraz loaded with shiny steel tanks and a pile of tubes, fittings and other bits and bobs. – That was another exciting day. Now, since we were avid home brewers, endowed with a great passion for good beer but no commercial brewing experience, we hired the expert services of a 20 year brewing veteran, Chris Leonard, to come down for 4 months and put us through a very intense brewer’s course on how to be really awesome brewers. Chris helped us get the recipes how we wanted them and also was able to tame our wildly rebellious bottling machine. The bottling machine had a mind of its own and for months refused to cooperate and hated to work. So much so that on September 1st we opened the doors of Sierra Andina brewery with an exciting inaugural night of live music and fun interchange – but only sold the beer in kegs, not in bottles, right at the brewery. Talk about an exciting day!

getting fidgety and we had to send our beer there too. Our dream had come true! We were now operating a craft brewery that shipped great beer all over Peru! You guessed it – it was an exciting day. Our intentions

Make Huaraz a Better Place

So, stop by Trivio and have yourself a pour of our finely brewed Sierra Andina Ale and let us know how we are doing, living up to our 5 guiding principles. And while you are sipping your ale, we would love to hear of your own adventures in the Andes and who knows, perhaps your tale may inspire us to make yet another sterling style of beer and name it after some highly ‘Andean’ aspect of your time discovering the magic of this fine area.

Our goal is to brew beer that captures some of the magic of the Peruvian Highlands (La Sierra Andina). The most important ingredient in beer is water and Sierra Andina beer is brewed with the water straight from the Andes! In fact, 20% of the water we use is glacier melt straight off Mt. Vallunaraju! A careful study of the water has revealed that it really is perfect water for the brewing process. Lucky us. From the stark beauty of the glaciered peaks, Wow, I have been so busy writing I did the colorful Andean people to the rich not notice that it is already 5pm! Its history of the area – we try to put a little time to hurry off to Trivio for glass of of that in each bottle that we brew. freshly brewed Don Juan Porter ! In between the exciting days there Written by Ted Alexander, are also a lot of difficult days as well – when things do not go as planned and General Manager of Sierra Andina

Then finally, on November 10, 2011, after taking the bottling machine completely apart and rebuilding it, replacing many of the under engineered parts, we had our first successful bottling day and began selling our beer in bottles to the many fine restaurants, hotels, bars and stores throughout Huaraz. Two months later we began receiving phone calls from Lima and started sending beers to the City of Kings. Soon thereafter Cusco, Trujillo and Iquitos started

Trivio can be found at Parque del Periodista in Huaraz

Brewers assistant cleaning out the ‘mash-tun’ on brew day

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Mountaineering

The Huaraz Telegraph JULY 2013

Peru’s most famous mountaineer sounds the alarm bell for tourism in Huaraz

Augusto Ortega, born on July 10th, 1958, is a professional mountain guide and was the first Peruvian ever to conquer the Mount Everest. Augusto, originally from Huaraz, found time to talk to The Huaraz Telegraph and spoke passionately about his first mountain adventures, showing concerned about the future of tourism in Huaraz and its inhabitants in general. Augusto started studying Civil Engineering at the university and reached up to the seventh semester. He eventually dropped out because of his passion for mountaineering. He admitted that he is normally a bit shy and does not like doing interviews because he “isn’t interested in the fame”; but he realised last year how important it was to spread the word and motivate the Peruvian youth to develop the mountaineering sport. Would you like to share your passion with the readers, Augusto?

Well, it all started when I was between ten and twelve years old. I had a calendar in my bedroom with different images of mountains. This calendar had not only pictures of mountains but also of cows, blue lakes and green grass. I wanted to be part of this. My family used to take me to church and that’s where I always saw a mountain that looked very much like the Matterhorn. We are talking about the Rima Rima Mountain; here is where I definitely got the interest. I ascended my first mountain with a couple of friends many years ago. Reaching the top of Carhuac (5040m) made me touch snow the first time in my life and it was incredible. Back in the old days we were told that when you’d touch snow you’d become part of the mountain. It was a legend of course but back then I believed it was true. We were absolute amateurs, we didn’t know anything about climbing techniques, we were completely inexperienced and didn’t even have proper climbing shoes. My feet were frozen when reaching the top of the mountain. Later that year I climbed Carhuac again but with decent climbing boots this time. It was an indescribable sensation for me. In 1953 the Peruvian brothers Apolonio and Guido Yanac from Cajatambo were the first Peruvians to reach the south summit of the Huascarán. My friends and I always talked about that feat and listened to stories told by our teachers about them. The day I reached the summit of Carhuac I saw another mountain, the Vallunaraju (5686m), so my dreams weren’t over. It had all just started. When I was only 18, I reached the top of the Huascarán for the first time, two years after my first unsuccessful attempt. I was still studying, finishing my secondary school and was preparing to go to the university. In 1976, I went on a mission with Julio Ingar Mendoza to the Huamashraju and there I met Américo Tordoya. With him, my official mountain career started, as Américo became my ideal climbing partner. Together we conquered some mountains

in the Cordillera Blanca as Rima Rima, Vallunaraju and again Huascarán. We also formed the first ever-Peruvian expedition to conquer the Alpamayo Mountain. The story I am telling you has a sad end... We started to plan a trip to Argentina to climb the Aconcagua, which is the highest mountain in the Cordillera de los Andes. Américo went ahead on his own towards Chile and Argentina and started the climb. An avalanche ended his life and I was informed by a radio station and later by phone calls. Unfortunately, his body was never found. It had a massive impact on my life. When I was – if I remember well – 23 years old, I quit climbing for a year. I couldn’t do it anymore. A year after that, I got to know Sergio Firch Watkins, an elite climber from Mexico. He was an absolute pro when I was still an amateur. He invited me on expeditions and later on I could call myself a professional mountaineer. We went to Ecuador, Bolivia and Chile and finally I got to climb Aconcagua, the mountain where my good friend Américo lost his life. When I reached the summit, I was very emotional. I didn’t do it on my own. My mother always wanted me to be an engineer but for me it’s important to do something I am good at and like. And for me, it’s climbing. Now I have summited the Aconcagua 60 times and this is still a world record. Being a professional mountain climber you have a fixed salary, which makes it a little easier getting access to so many different mountains.

The Huaraz Telegraph Augusto Ortega in the sun

You were the first Peruvian ever reaching the peak of the Mount Everest? Before 1992, my friend Firch organised an expedition to the Everest, and I participated representing Peru. On October 9th, more than 20 years ago now, I reached the peak after 60 days. Every mountaineer wants to climb the Everest. Reaching the peak meant so much for me. I took me back when I was 14 years old and first climbed the mountain Carhuac. When I completed my dream, I also completed Américo’s dream. We did it together. I did it for many to be honest because some wanted to go but couldn’t. I did, luckily. I was very proud to stick the Peruvian flag in the white snow. How did people react? Peruvians aren’t interested in mountaineering. They weren’t back then and they aren’t now. Here in Huaraz, I am a nobody – which is fine – but it says a lot about the people here. In Bolivia, Chile and other parts of the world, I am signing

The Huaraz Telegraph Augusto Ortega on top of the world in 1992 with the Peruvian flag in his hands

autographs; here people have no idea who I am and what I have done. Now I am taking it a bit easier and am trying to train youngsters at mountaineering clubs as Amigos de la Montaña, of which I am the founder. It is seriously a big shame that Huaracinos (habitants of Huaraz) do not even know the nearest mountains around. Now that I am over 50, it’s nice to motivate youngsters and make them interested in mountaineering. In 1999 I made another attempt at reaching the top of Mount Everest, again without bottled oxygen. Not that this makes a difference, but anyway... During workshops, I always explain that climbing is more mental than physical. It’s only when you have everything straight up here [pointing to his head] that you can be a successful climber. Mountaineering is many times safer than crossing the streets in Lima. It’s just the mountain and you. My reason for doing this interview is again to motivate people to take on mountaineering. You know, I have children myself and we have only gone climbing very few times together. I believe that they should do what they like to do the most. In that aspect, I am completely different to my mother. If my children like mountaineering, excellent; if they don’t, it’s not the end of the world. The true inspiration (and my passion) is about getting to know your limits. What are you capable of? The mountain will give you that answer.

M. Smith College in Taricá.

So, has your life changed now you are getting media attention?

What about tourism and mountaineering in Huaraz?

This year has been a complete change. After all, 20 years after climbing the Mount Everest I received a tribute at the 2009 edition of the Inkafest Mountain Festival, thanks to the organiser and director Ivan Canturin. I received a certificate of honour from the Ministry of Tourism of Ancash, and medals from the Peruvian Institute of Sport. In 2012, I was even declared “illustrious son of the region of Ancash” and received the Civic Medal from the Municipality of Huaraz. People took photos and I signed autographs. To be honest, it felt a bit awkward to me. I guess I am a bit too shy. But, I have to do it because my main objective now is to motivate the youth in Peru and that’s why I also accepted invitations to give speeches at the Robert

Tourism is something that should be seen as a professional service. Institutions, guides and agencies form the tourist business here in Huaraz. Let me start with the guides in Huaraz. What do I think about them? The guides in Huaraz do not know how to climb. They might have the physical capacity in most of the cases but most are not ready to offer services like a professional mountain guide can. They are more like porters. They know how to make a knot and know how to get up a mountain, but that doesn’t mean they’re good guides. A guide is like a university professor. A professor can have all the knowledge about mathematics but still be a bad teacher because he lacks pedagogy and instruction skills. You will need to have something more than just knowing how to access a mountain. Most

What is the current level of mountaineering in Peru? [After a very deep sigh] Low. The level of professional mountaineering is low. Ecuador has gone much further than Peru to develop the sport. We do not have the same level here, unfortunately: in Peru there is no mountaineering culture. I am very worried. We do not even have a mountaineering federation. There is the Federación Deportiva Peruana de Andinismo y Deportes de Invierno (Peruvian Federation of Mountaineering and Wintersports) but the chairman has nothing to do with mountaineering. He’s there only for his own benefits. The mountaineering clubs in Peru would like to retrieve power, but we can’t. That’s why according to me there is no such organisation. We don���t exist according to them; we are ghost clubs. There is a bigger problem but this is very much related, there is no form of organisation whatsoever. Things are improving but some elements, for example there are people who are really capable, but it’s difficult for them to get started. Most of the people don’t have the support, or aren’t stimulated the way they should be, or are lacking organisation skills to form a club for international elite mountaineers. I want to change that. I am trying to change that.

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The Huaraz Telegraph JULY 2013 of them come back from the mountain and get drunk for a couple of days, and off they go again. Not everyone, I repeat not all, but the big majority does that. This is a real problem these days. Other guides are so badly educated that they do not even speak other languages. They aren’t even interested in learning foreign languages. It’s getting better, yes, but guides should aim to work at a professional level and that’s not the case. Then there are the agencies... Here in Huaraz there are not tourism entrepreneurs. What we have here are merchants. Many of them think that tourism is equal to selling potatoes at the market. There is awareness of tourism yes, but no one wants to work. They don’t know or want to implement tourism; they just want to make as much profit as possible. The major problem is that the merchants don’t have any notion of what teamwork is. Better said: teamwork doesn’t exist in Huaraz. It’s very much the opposite. There is so much envy in this town you cannot imagine. The ideology of a Huaracino is based on idiosyncrasy. This means that they won’t let you work but also refuse to do it. We Peruvians have problems organising and there are disrupted, old concepts such as moral and values. Let me give you an example to explain. How can we sell a trek for 60 or 80 U$D offering the worst service possible? This how we are never going to improve things. The Casa de Guias represents the guides but it seriously lacks organisation. There are three main bodies that should regulate tourism: Casa de Guias, the National Park of Huascarán and finally the Ministry of Tourism (of which i-Perú is a part). They should unite and set the standards for the others to follow. Here in Huaraz, it’s “each for their own”. Tourism in Huaraz should be taken to the next level before it’s too late. I-Perú is another example. Before tourists step down the bus, they are overloaded with false information by touts or ambulant guides. Tourists should be savvier. Luckily some are wise enough to understand that those touts are only there to make money and not because of the fact that they want to improve tourism. Recommendations of previous tourists are worth a lot but if someone doesn’t know where to go, they fall into the hands of those jackals. They’re like cancer for tourism. This is where the institutions as the National Park Huascaran, Casa de Guias and i-Perú should form a front against the scamming that occurs too many often. If nothing happens, I feel I have to react. Listen, I am not saying that they have to come to me! I want you to make that clear. Summarizing, there are many that don’t even want to work and should just transfer you to someone who does. Again we are talking about this famous Spanish saying, “el perro del hortelano”, doesn’t eat and doesn’t let eat. Jealousy is within the people of Huaraz. It’s in everyone: the police, the neighbour and your friends; I often feel like a stranger in my own town. One day someone told me that they called the Casa de Guias asking whether they knew how to contact me. Answers

Mountaineering

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varied from that they had no clue and in the worst scenario, they said I was dead. I don’t care but this is exactly the problem, we can’t organise ourselves and therefore tourism isn’t moving forward. The institutions of course have their problems, but they should set regulations and standards. They lack knowledge and experience, I believe. It’s like a vicious circle; this is our biggest problem. The mountains have litter problems, there is pollution and people are entering the parks when they shouldn’t be allowed to. These people are not guides but just do whatever they want to do. Another example is rock or wall climbing. This is not to be compared with mountaineering. La escala de palaestra is a big boom at the moment. The problem is that it’s not about the climbing itself; it’s about consuming marihuana and alcohol. Of course, everyone is free to do whatever they feel they have to, but this has nothing to do with professional tourism. Again, this is how the market works nowadays. If we don’t organise things well here, we will never be able to escape that vicious circle we’re in. Everything I said is subjective of course but according to my professional point of view. So Augusto, is there a future for Huaraz and what about your future? A future? It depends a lot whether we can work as a team in the future. It will be very difficult but it’s not impossible. The real change should take place in the mentality. It’s almost utopia. Changes have to be made from a higher position than I am at. I try to help by sharing my experience. Huaraz is a horrible place to live nowadays. There is no architecture, no history; people are growing up without culture. I want to contribute to making a change by giving conferences and interviews. Apart from that, I would like to climb some mountains of the Karakorum and Himalaya like the K2 and the Lothse, but I also want to focus on working with children and youngsters in relation with mountaineering. Rounding up the interview, I believe yes, there is hope… Augusto has lead mountain expeditions for the past 30 years and has conquered many important peaks in the Andes: in Ecuador Chimborazo (16 times), Cotopaxi (24 times), Cayambe, Tungurahua, Pichincha y Rumiñahui; in Peru Huascaran (36 times), Alpamayo (32 times), Yerupaja, Huandoy, Artesonraju y many others, in Bolivia Illimani (12 times), Huayna Potosí (18 times), Sajama etc. In Chile, he conquered Torres del Paine. Besides climbing in the Himalayas, he also climbed the Cho Oyu in 1998. He has climbed many mountains in the Canadian Rocky Mountains and the Mt. Mc Kinley in Alaska. Augusto is still working as a mountain guide today and has his own trekking and climbing agency called Inka Explorer. People who are interested to contact Augusto can do this here: inkaexplorer@yahoo.com. This interview was conducted in January 2013 by Rex Broekman

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Readers´contributions

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HOLLOW SHADOW

FROM SERENADES at’s why it The ant liked music. Th ries keys of a big walked through the ivo the slumbers piano trying to wake up steps. melodies with its little it tough, “he “If a man were an ant”, sy.” could lift this piano ea this story Unable to keep up with stery from it, I and extract the real my corrected my writing: rds. That’s why The ant liked the keyboa keys of a big ry it walked through the ivo yword. ke piano and my computer r come. The pianist and the write ile they each And without regret, wh fancy ways, composed in their own e duplicated bug they both squashed th fingers. under the weight of their

dreamed about You woke up. You had urneys and exploits, about great jo d the wisdom adventures; you had ha mysteries; rnal and interpreted the ete you had loved. around you that And there was nobody dream, neither could write about your your existence. d again, you had You woke up again. An even yourself. not found anyone, not Alberto Zelada casmayo, 1977, lives in Alberto Zelada, born in Pa mechanical engineer an Trujillo and is besides a d tales. author of short stories an albertozelada@gmail.com spot.com www.albertozelada.blog

The World Is Round By Rick Ruffin Everyone has a nose ring. Everyone has an Apple iPhone or Samsung Galaxy or some other tablet that they stare at all the time. Everyone does Facebook. Everyone except me, that is. Sometimes, it seems that I just do not fit in. Travelling at age 56, staying in backpackers hostels with people half (and in some cases a third) of your age leaves one asking the question, “What am I doing here?” But I must stay focused on the bigger picture. I am going to Brazil, where I will fashion a new life for myself. I am heading back to the place of my birth. As Gina (who I met in Lima) said, ”So, you are doing the circle thing?” Yup, I am doing the “circle thing”. I am, in essence, going back to my roots. I left South Korea on the 300-metre container vessel CGA CGM Otello, on February 20, 2013. Ironically, this boat was built in South Korea by Hyundai Heavy Industries and commissioned in 2005. The Otello is capable of carrying 8,200 containers. It is too big to go through the Panama Canal. It took the crew of 27 French and Romanians 17 days to cross the Pacific to Manzanillo, Mexico, and 24 days to deliver me to Buenaventura, Colombia, what the NYT calls “the most dangerous city in South America”. I left a wife behind. I sold everything I could; and what I

The Huaraz Telegraph JULY 2013

could not sell, I gave away. I turned my back on 16 years of history and living and establishment and stepped on a cargo boat and moved across the Pacific. I just could not take living in South Korea anymore. I could not take people coming up to me and asking me if I could teach their sons or daughters English. I needed a change. As my wife said: “You need to go to Brazil. Brazil is a country big enough for you.” I still love my wife. I will probably love her until the day I die. I was not the best husband, but not the worst either. Sometimes I think that I failed her, but then perhaps I was never cut out for marriage. I saw so many dolphins and whales and sea turtles and flying fish and pelicans and albatross along the way, not to mention a dozen other sea birds; I cannot count them all. But as we crossed the great blue dome of the world’s largest ocean, as we rolled across that great watery eye, I was looking for the Great Pacific Garbage Patch and I never found it. The Captain of our ship, Jocelyn Rapp, said to me: “I’ve never seen any evidence that it exists.” This made me feel better.

The world is a huge place, and it is very resilient. It is very adept at swallowing up the excesses of our human existence. But what will future generations find? Will they look back on the 21st century and say: “Yeah, those people were real slobs”? In any case, I went to Ecuador and lived in a bamboo hut in the middle of the jungle for one month. Howler monkeys hung from the trees and woke me up, every morning, with their nasal grunts and cries. In the evening, insects flew into my face. All the time cicadas sang, and bees buzzed. When it rained – which it did every night – I could hear trees crashing in the forest. It was the sound of life regenerating itself. I would go hiking, and swat the spider webs that spanned the trail from my face. Hours later I would go back, and there they would be once again. Nature is very resilient. Everything returns to what it was before, at some point in time. I called the bamboo hut in coastal Ecuador where I lived for one month The House of The Spirits, in honour of the book by the same name, written by Chilean-American Isabelle Allende. It was just too dark and too damp a place for my liking. And, there was no electricity. It got so dark at night that I finally understood what it is like to go blind. Sitting in the hammock at night, reading by headlamp, I exhausted just about every book in the small library that existed, including a novel about living in the jungle of equatorial Africa in the 1960s, The Poisonwood Bible. It is one of the best books I have ever read. It taught me that there were many people who had it much worse than I did. Africa was hotter, more humid, more remote, had more mould and tropical diseases and fewer doctors, was full of witchdoctors and voodoo, was in the throes of a violent political revolution, and had army ants and green mamba snakes

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The Huaraz Telegraph JULY 2013

Readers´contributions

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that could eat you alive and kill you. And, like Ecuador, like The House of The Spirits, the Belgian Congo had mud. Lots and lots of mud. Let us fast-forward to Huaraz, if you will. We will pass on all those other cool places I went to in Ecuador, and fast-forward to Huaraz. I just want to say this: I remember reading about it. I knew about the earthquake and the subsequent avalanche that devastated Yungay because, even though I was only 14 at the time, I remember reading about it in the Miami Herald in 1970, well before some of you were even born. The Pastoruri glacier was cool – literally. The blossoms on all those Puya Raimondii´s were also great to see. Did you know there are up to 800 tiny flowers on a single plant? But the trip to Lago 69, through the deep gorge with the black shiny faces of rock soaring heavenward – that was fantastic. Then the lake, which resembles not so much a lake as it does a giant topaz, sitting in a bowl surrounded by towering ice cream cones. I have been all over the world, and I have never seen anything like that. And then, there were those purple flowers with the yellow core that looked like lupine and covered the hillsides everywhere on the way to the lake. At Alpes Huaraz, I met manager Roberto and his friend Andres and they took care of me, as did the owner, Juan. I gave him a book written in Korean. In Huaraz, I also met a Korean woman, a volunteer teaching computer science and she bought me a glass of pineapple juice and listened to my stories as I listened to hers. She had signed up for one more year of volunteer work, which meant she would have spent a total of three years in Huaraz when her time volunteering was up. I guess she likes it there. I also gave her a book, a glossy and heavy book that had been given to me just before I left Korea and showed the viewer the beauty of Korean temples. As a Christian, I am not sure my Korean friend would fully appreciate it. Perhaps I should have also given that book to Juan, owner of Alpes Huaraz. Perhaps he could fully appreciate it. In the Trivio bar, in downtown Huaraz, I meet Ally and Josephina. Ally is from Colorado, and will marry a Peruvian, Alfonso. Josephina is originally from NYC, but sounds like a Peruvian. She has been living in Huaraz a while, I take it. When she learns that I am heading to Lima, she whips out her mobile phone and calls Freddie. “Freddie will take care of you,” she says to me. “He won’t take advantage of you. He will treat you real kind.” And he did. He met me at the bus station the next morning in Lima, and whisked me off to the nearest party hostel, in this case Pariwana, where everyone sports a nose ring, stares into an iPhone or Samsung Galaxy tablet to check their email and surf Facebook. But does it really matter? Josephina, if you are reading this, thank you, Sister. And everyone else, remember this. The world is round. That is all you really need to know.

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10

Expat in Huaraz

The Huaraz Telegraph JULY 2013

The Peruvian dream

According to I.N.E.I. statistics, 10,247 foreigners entered Peru in 2010 and stayed for over a year. Maybe they were looking for the Peruvian dream, or maybe just hanging out as tourists while visiting some supreme undiscovered places in Peru. The Free Dictionary describes the American dream as: “the notion that the American social, economic, and political system makes success possible for every individual”. The Huaraz Telegraph is wondering whether the Peruvian dream exists and if so, how to reach for those ideals on the Latin American continent being an expat? When walking along the street it´s easy to spot the difference between a tourist and an expat. Whereas most tourists wear their tiny day backpacks, zip-off pants and have a camera around their neck, most of the time the expat walks at a faster pace from A to B. When I travelled the world I always wondered (I still do) how it would be being a foreigner in a country like Cambodia, Egypt or Bolivia. Why would you want to live there in the first place? Well, expats might have their stories and reasons I guess. This is why in every edition of The Huaraz Telegraph, we´re interviewing an expat living in Huaraz. Ever wondered how it would be to leave your friends, family and belongings behind and move to Huaraz? First a small insight into the numbers and stats before we head to the interview. I know a lot of the foreigners living in Huaraz but not all and, therefore, I doubted they would be registered; resulting in skewed stats. To be completely honest, I was wondering whether there would be any stats at all. I went to the I.N.E.I (National Institute of Statistics and Computer science) in Huaraz and asked them the simple question: How many gringos are living in Huaraz or Ancash? The answer was as interesting as the question. After signing up and explaining the purpose of my visit, I was shown a couple of statistical books and told I should be able to find the answer

there. Well, after half an hour of searching …nothing! How about the number of foreigners in Peru and the number of immigrants every year? That was a little easier to find. On the I.N.E.I website (http://www.inei.gob.pe/biblioineipub/ bancopub/Est/Lib1038/libro.pdf) there are loads of stats on Peruvian emigration as well as Peruvian immigration between 1990 and 2011. Not bad, still up-to-date and even easily accessible. All stats mentioned in chapter IV on page 73 are for Foreign Residential Immigrants in Peru, concerning foreigners that have arrived to Peru between 1994 and 2010 and have NOT left the country after less than a year. This means that, even though Peru has a law that visitors may only stay up to a maximum of 183 days a year, ´gringos´ are, after one year, considered immigrants in the Republic of Peru. Between 1994 and 2010, 63,316 foreigners were considered residents of Peru without any migration movement noticed crossing borders to leave the country. Between 1994 and 2003, the number of foreigners entering Peru was never higher than 2,500 individuals. However, between 2004 and 2006, the number of immigrants reached up to almost 4,000 people with 6,000 in 2007. The latest stats show that in 2010 at least 10,247 foreigners stayed in Peru longer than one year and are considered as immigrants. This study also notes that the number of immigrants

The number of immigrants is growing by the year (I.N.E.I. stats)

has increased in the last few years. Between 2005 and 2010, the number of immigrants was 39,576, representing a 62.5% of the total registered between 1994 and 2010. The period between 1999 and 2004 represents an increase of 14,707 ´nuevos gringos´ signifying 23.2% of the total. Another interesting graph in the document shows that 59% of the immigrants are between 20 and 49 years of age. Immigrants younger than 19 years of age represent 9.7% of the immigrant population, 16.2% are 60 or older representing 10,257 people. When we look at the gender of the immigrants there is an interesting chart showing us that 39.8% of the immigrants are women whereas 60.2% are men representing a total of 63,316 immigrants (38,145 males to 25,171 females). Their marital status shows that 26,813 (45.5%) of the settlers are married and 19,635 are single. A total of 12,526 people are either divorced, widowed or didn’t want to specify. Just before the document starts to talk about the country of origin, it mentions that 50,950 people have come to Peru by air, entering the country at Jorge Chavez National Airport. A small 5.9% entered from the south in Tacna (Santa Rosa), 3.3% from Bolivia (Desaguadero) and a 2.5% came from the north crossing the border from Ecuador at Aguas Verdes. A total of 1,389 arrived at the harbour of Callao (probably shipwrecked and unable to return home).

33.3% of the Peruvian immigrants are from the same continent (South America)

The author of the stats declares that there exists a strong concentration of regional immigrants referring to 33.3% of foreigners coming from Latin American countries such as Argentina, Bolivia and Chile. Leaving the continent, surprisingly to me, the Europeans form 27.6% of the newcomers whereas the North American continent only accounts for 17.8%. Asian countries, mainly China and Japan, are good for 16.7% where Mexico helps

Central America with 3.5%. Oceania and Africa have the least immigrants with respectively 0.7% and 0.5%. As you just have read, to qualify for the status of immigrant you will need to stay in Peru for over a year. This is also the condition for our interview, in this edition we conducted the interview with the owner of The Lazy Dog Inn Lodge and the initiator of the NGO Andean Alliance. 1. Who are you? My name is Diana Morris from Calgary, Alberta, Canada. 2. How old are you and what’s your profession? I am 56 years young and I have a very wide skills set. I am an English teacher, I am a hotel/restaurant manager, I´ve experience working in large sport activities like marathons and have a reasonable experience doing community development in Ecuador and Peru. 3. How long have you been living in Huaraz? Almost ten years, my husband and I came in 2003 to Huaraz. 4. What brought you to Huaraz? My husband did his grad studies in 198889 and 90 in this area and he worked getting his masters degrees with the national university UNASAM and the Huascarán National Park. So he worked on the integration of communities within the National Park. That gave him the bases of the language skills and an idea of what he wanted to do. He left, however, in 1990, because of security reasons due to the Shining Path (the now-forbidden Peruvian Communist Party). He kept working in the consulting field concerning environmental issues, and after a period of time, we decided to leave Canada and try to

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The Huaraz Telegraph JULY 2013 work a couple of years in Latin America. We wanted to live in Ecuador but went to Colombia first, because that was where the first job was. Then after seven years in Ecuador, we felt it wasn’t the country where we wanted to stay so we looked further. We kept coming back to Huaraz during these years. We had made friends here and we eventually moved to Huaraz for good. Now, a two-year trip from Canada amounts to almost 18 years. I think our families have figured out we´re not coming back. 5. How has your life changed over the years? Being a first generation immigrant of Canada, my parents left the Netherlands after the Second World War. There are certain things you learn leaving your home in exchange for this environment. You find out that you cannot take anything for granted and nothing is for free. In order to do something with your life and make a difference you have to lead by example. That example can show people around you how to do stuff. You also learn to become more self-reliant because the government structures don’t exist here to provide things for you. I turned into a multi-tasker! I had to rethink a lot of my expectations too and I have learned to change a lot of my timeframes because things don’t happen here at the pace you expect them to happen. You don’t have the control you hope to have, or used to have. I have also softened a lot because of the needs of the people here. North America is very hard and competitive; here when you look around you, you see families who are just trying to feed themselves and live from day to day. It doesn’t make you feel sorry for them but it makes you a bit more realistic. You have to fight hard not to be a negative person; I feel more alive and don’t think I would have felt this way back in Canada. 6. What are your favourite hangout spots in Huaraz? I don’t go out very often but when we do, definitely Café Andino, I also like Trivio because of the coffee and the beer. We have been going to activities in the Cultural Centre, which Huaraz has built, and we like to support that. 7. What is it you miss the most from back home, and how often do you go back? Given my age, I miss my family the most. I have grandchildren and I would like to be with them a bit more often. Also, I have aging parents so there are a lot of reasons to go back at the moment. I miss the mountains and the coastal part of Alberta; I miss the endless and countless kilometers of protected space. Right now I really miss the long summer nights where there is sunshine until 11pm when you can sit outside in your T-shirt and have a barbeque and a beer. I guess I

Expat in Huaraz also miss the convenience stores where you can buy… just about anything! You don’t have to fight with someone in the store to buy something. Canada also has a really good infrastructure for social policies and education. I go back twice a year now because of family reasons but if I didn’t have family, I would probably go back less. 8. What is it you like most about Huaraz? That´s a tough question, isn’t it? The vendors in the market! I enjoy talking to the egg-man and also the chicken lady and they actually recognize me as their customer. I can also leave my bags with them and play a bit with their children. You will never get that experience in a

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Lakes) are terrible. We are shooting ourselves in the foot here by not working together well. 10. What sites or activities do you recommend (or not) to our readers? The lakes above us (Llaka, Cojup and Ahuac) are great. People need to know and take better advantage of local community activities, whether it´s going to Olleros or Unchus or Uquia. I really don’t understand why people keep going to Rataquenua and Monterrey because they only get robbed. People have to realize that there are 12 months worth of activities here and if local businesses only focus on high-mountain activities, there will never be an increase of business.

drinking part in town. The second thing would be refuse collection: it´s an embarrassment. I don’t know how the council ever expects to better tourism, considering the way they deal with the rubbish. I suggest having larger collection boxes where people can leave their litter, instead of using plastic bags on the streets left for the dogs start digging in them. The last thing (there is more but I will keep it short) is traffic. It´s lawless, reckless and dangerous and there is no shortage of traffic police. It´s just they don’t do anything. If there is no consequence to the actions, people will continue to do what they´re doing. Enforcement is needed: people should be fined and made accountable for the things they wrongly do while on the road. Those are the three things: kids, garbage and traffic! 12. Are you living the Peruvian dream (explain)? I am not really sure what that means. Peruvians think I am crazy to be here being from Canada because they want all to go to Canada. We live as good neighbours and develop strong relationships with the people who are around us. We feel that our presence makes a positive difference here. It´s a sense of service that drives us because if we wanted to be rich, we would never be here. If I wanted an easy life, I wouldn’t be here. But if I want to do something that makes a difference to other people, I am at the right place. 13. How do you see your future in Huaraz?

The Huaraz Telegraph Diana Morris from Calgary with one of her many beloved horses

shopping market in Lima or any of the countries we come from. I enjoy the weather and the activities in the Cultural Centre and going down [to the city] for coffee. 9. What’s your opinion about the tourist business in Huaraz? Well, another tough question because I work in Tourism, as you know. I see a world full of potential, but there is still too much disorganisation, mistrust, big egos and lack of cooperation. There are some great agencies, hostels and restaurants in the Huaraz area but the focus is pretty much on ´it´s all for me.´ If Huaraz could have a communal webpage, not linked to one certain business, it would bring a lot more tourists. I believe tourists are tiring of the business in Cusco and they are willing to look for alternatives. Huaraz is certainly one of those but it doesn’t have the infrastructure to handle it. The roads towards the mayor sites (eg. Llanganuco

11. If you were to become the Mayor of Huaraz one day, what would you do or change? Ha ha, there is a long answer but I shall be brief on three points! It concerns me tremendously that the younger people of Huaraz have no knowledge of the natural areas around them and haven’t even been out of the city. I think it´s a shame. Youngsters have extremely limited outlets that are positive. My question would be, does Huaraz actually need another discothèque, another place to sell alcohol? The amount of youth with alcohol problems is really tremendous. The city has no social infrastructure and I would look into community centres: a regular cinema where you could go to, or a bowling alley, or gymnasiums offering sports that can be played which are not competitive, café and restaurant areas where young people can go and socialize, and an actual library so people can enjoy the books. Right now, youth is directed towards the

Well, our live here is full of projects, whether it´s the business or the NGO. I think that our time here in Huaraz will continue until where we see a point where the NGO has taken steps to be more independent instead of us having to manage it all the time. I see us being here for a very long time. I always say that when it´s not fun anymore and I can’t ride my horses anymore, it´s time to return. When the interview ended but we were still recording, Diana added the following information: You know, life here is really hard sometimes. You know that! But I still go back to the fact that I chose to live here. It would be very difficult to leave and sell the place. It would be hard because of logistics, but also emotionally. It´s still my choice to be here, so… Thanks for your time Are you an expat living in Huaraz? Contact us for an interview! Rex Broekman

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14

Tourists Talk!

The Huaraz Telegraph JULY 2013

German visits local heroes of Sport Ancash and talks about his passion During the interview you’re about to read, the subject of the interview and the interviewer himself found out that they were in the same city and stadium nine years ago. Both were surprisingly present around the Supachalasai Stadium in Bangkok in December 2004 where Germany was about to play the home team, only a couple of days before the Tsunami would occur. Germany would win the match by 5-1 with 15,000 spectators attending the event, among them Rene Altmann from Oberlungwitz (former East Germany). Rene is 34 years old, works for Schneider Electric in Regensburg (Bavaria) and his passion is attending football matches everywhere in the world. Why did you decide to come to Huaraz in the first place? I came to Huaraz to go trekking, especially the Huayhuash and Santa Cruz treks; I also wanted to climb the Chopicalqui Mountain but didn’t in the end because, when I went on the Santa Cruz trek, our group met some people coming down from the Alpamayo Mountain and told us there had been an avalanche that got two Peruvian guides killed. I decided that it would be better not to risk my life until the weather had settled a bit more. Instead I chose to go on daytrips and visit some of the villages around the city of Huaraz. But you are not only in Huaraz to go trekking, correct?

The Huaraz Telegraph Rene Altmann from Oberlungwitz is a supporter of VFL Bochum travelling the world and attending football matches

to throw bottles and other things towards the field. This must explain why I saw policemen with riffles on the pitch…

I am also here to see some football matches! A week ago I went to visit the Rosas Pampa Stadium where I watched the local heroes of Sport Ancash play Deportivo Coopsol in the Second Division of Peruvian professional football. I am here in Peru to see as many matches as possible and see some things of the local culture as well. I will attend Premier Division matches and Second Division matches and finally, I hope to see the national team play. I should be able to have seen around twelve matches in five weeks when I go back to Germany. My passion is to enjoy the atmosphere in the stadiums, the crowds and the stadiums in general.

You have seen many stadiums in the world and in Peru, what´s your opinion on Rosas Pampa?

What about the match in Huaraz at Rosas Pampa?

I started in Cusco and went on to Arequipa, I visited the four major teams of Lima (Alianza Lima, Universitario, Sporting Cristal and San Martin de Porres) but also some of the minor teams like Club Centro Deportivo Municipal. Now I am in Huaraz and when I leave I will visit Trujillo to see Universidad César Vallejo Club de Fútbol and then move on to Club Juan Aurich S.A from Chiclayo, finally returning to see Alianza Lima once more. Then I can hopefully attend Peru´s international match versus Ecuador.

It was actually quite a good match, especially for Second Division football although the Huaraz team didn’t manage to win the game. It ended in a 1-1 final result. Sport Ancash was the better team but the opponents got one chance, due to a mistake by the Sport Ancash goalkeeper, and got a draw. The spectators in the stadium seem to like the game more than people in Europe; I would describe them as more passionate, not only in Huaraz but in the whole of Peru, I believe. When opponents come out of the dressing rooms the supporters whistle and boo really loudly. What´s really funny is that even when the home team plays a bad game, the crowd starts

I was completely surprised by the size of the stadium. For a Second Division club in Peru, I think it´s a real good stadium, better than most I have seen in the Premier Division in Peru. It looks really new but I don’t know if it was such a good idea to construct a new station while there are so many other important things to spend money on in the city. Share with us your experiences of the other matches you visited and tell us which match was your favourite?

The match I liked the most was my first match of Alianza Lima but when I visited the Estadio Monumental of La U, I became a fan of their fantastic atmosphere. The crowd had grotesque football choreography and that´s why I like to attend matches. I saw myself on a video posted shortly after the Universitario match, on Youtube. The difference between matches in Europe and South America is that in Europe fans are told to sit down and the die-hard fans are normally behind the goal of the home playing team, whereas in South America they are scattered throughout the whole stadium, which creates an even better atmosphere. People are singing the whole match and making a lot of noise. It´s high speed traveling because when I did the Huayhuash trek, I had to come back one day earlier to take a night bus to Lima and see two matches, taking another night bus back to Huaraz and the next day I went on the Santa Cruz trek. Is it just about visiting a match or do you actually dress up for games? I normally buy the home team´s kit, with sometimes a scarf or headband and gather with the ultras or die-hard fans behind the goal. But safety is also very important. Let me tell you a nice anecdote: two weeks ago I went to the Alianza Lima match and bought their tricot, which I wore during the match. After the game I only had 30 minutes to get to the Estadio Municipal de Chorrillos of Club Centro Deportivo Municipal. Because I didn’t have enough time to change shirt, I just kept my Alianza Lima shirt underneath my Municipal shirt.

Unfortunately, some Municipal fans noticed the colours of Alianza Lima and made clear that they were very unhappy about that. The fans wouldn’t let me take pictures because I was wearing the wrong kit underneath the home team´s shirt. During half time, I went to the bathroom and took the Alianza shirt out and put it into my back pocket because, shortly before the whistle, they had told me to leave the stadium. As soon as the match ended I took the first possible bus away from Chorrillos as I didn’t feel safe. I wouldn’t want to meet with them on the streets at night wearing the “wrong” shirt. I am talking about muscled guys with many tattoos and some of them had their hair shaved. I was a little bit scared. In general I like visiting the matches in Peru although the first couple matches I attended were a bit disappointing, mainly because most of the stadiums were more than half empty and this had a huge impact on the atmosphere. On the other hand, when I visited the Estadio Monumental of La U (capacity over 80,000) I think it was more than half filled. The day afterwards I read in the newspaper that there were only 20,000 visitors. I couldn’t believe it, this was incorrect. But if they only sold 20,000 tickets, I am sure the readers of The Huaraz Telegraph understand what happened with the other half of the tickets. Have you been to other matches in the world? I have seen matches in Thailand, Malaysia, India, Egypt, Costa Rica,

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The Huaraz Telegraph JULY 2013 Bolivia and of course in Europe, in the Czech Republic, Austria, Switzerland and France. My favourite match was the Universitario match against San Martin de Porres but also the Costa Rican match between Deportivo Saprissa S.A.D. and Puerto Limón. The fans of La Ultra Morada were everywhere around the stadium, it took a long time to get a tickets and later on, inside the stadium, they sang from the first minute until the last. It was great! How do your friends in Germany respond about your hobby and is there a Mrs. Altmann? In Germany most people don’t know about it, I don’t like to talk about it a lot. I was married to a Thai lady but she lost her life, either suicide or murder but this never became clear. I have an idea about what happened, but would rather not talk about it. I hope you understand. Every two years I go to Thailand to visit her two children and support them of course. I don’t think my friends know about my passion, but my father asked me one day: ¨Rene, what are you doing tomorrow? Because tomorrow there will be three matches in Prague…¨ Tickets are a lot cheaper, Prague is only 160 km from where we live, so we visited Sparta, Slavia and Bohemians on the same day. My father used to be a passionate football supporter as well but he is over 70 years old now and doesn’t go that frequently anymore. Do you have a favourite team in Germany? V.F.L. Bochum! This is a nice story by the way. When I was 10 or 11 years old, I used to collect autographs from football players in East and West Germany. Back then, it was very difficult – even though the border was open – to send a letter to West Germany. The club who received a letter had to pay for the returning post stamp. From all the teams I wrote to, the best I got was a reply with a couple of autographs from the players, but from the Bochum team I received a card with more than 25 signatures, the players, the manager, and the staff members. Back then I was so happy! That’s how my love for the VFL started. Three or four years later, I went on a train journey to visit my first ever Bochum game,

Tourists Talk! played in Dresden (versus Dynamo Dresden), who also have some crazy fanatic supporters. Then I went to a cup match (DFB Pokal) versus the late FC Sachsen Leipzig. Those weren’t the first matches I attended because long before that, I had visited Chemnitzer FC, but that was back in the D.D.R. time. Because of the autographs my heart was sold for Bochum. When I visited Thailand many years ago, I met a monk in the middle of nowhere and he was a fan of Der Verein für Leibesübungen Bochum. The next time I visited him I brought him a Bochum shirt with all the signatures from the players and when I handed him the shirt he started crying. He said to me: ¨This is Christmas, New Year, Easter and my birthday on the same day!¨ Are there matches you would like see in the future? I really want to see Boca (Juniors) play River (Plate) in Argentina and also Real Madrid versus Barcelona in Spain. Next year, I am thinking of going to Brazil to the World Cup and maybe see a couple of matches there. The better matches, in terms of atmosphere, are in Brazil and Argentina. In Egypt there is the Cairo derby between Al Ahly and Zamalek, which must be great as well. In India I want to visit a match of East Bengal F.C. because their Salt Lake Stadium has a capacity of 120,000 and let’s hope there are some spectators. Maybe they’ll play their rivals Mohun Bagan Athletic Club. I tend not to interact as much with the home team fans because you never know what they think of a German visiting their matches. I just take many pictures and enjoy the match. I don’t like to go to England or Italy anymore because football there has died, some friends told me they went to a match there and the crowd was told by the security to sit down all the time. A shame really but there are still many other nice countries and matches to enjoy.

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Irishman opens Papa Loca restaurant in Huaraz Only restaurant in Huaraz serving traditional English fish and chips, Irish stew, cottage pie and apple crumble with homemade custard. On April 20th Trevor Eagleson opened the doors to his new restaurant Papa Loca with free samples, cocktails and good company enjoying its cosy fire place. When asked about the restaurant Trevor replied “I want to create something different in Huaraz, of course most of the usual Peruvian dishes are available including the Andean delicacy of guinea pig but I also want to focus on bringing more diversity to the international cuisine in Huaraz. I’ve travelled a lot in South America and know how it feels to miss certain foods; hopefully with this menu I can cater to those travellers missing some home comforts. Add a few cocktails with an 8-10pm buy one get one free happy hour, good portions at reasonable prices and we should have a few smiling faces leaving the restaurant.”

Papa Loca can be found in Hotel Los Portales, Raimondi 903 and is open from 5pm-11pm Tuesday-Sunday. Come in July for a free pancake with every two main meals ordered!

Opening night cocktails at Papa Loca

If people have to give a description of you Rene, what would they say? I have no idea what others think. They probably think I am crazy. On the other hand, I have a good job and a big car; some might show some forms of envy. I am not a bad person; I just like to visit matches.

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Tourist Information

The Huaraz Telegraph JULY 2013

All you should know about day trips, trekking, mountaineering and bouldering The Cordillera Blanca offers countless opportunities for trekkers and climbers, as well as for people not so keen on physical activities. The wonderful lakes and glaciers of the White Range are easily accessible from the town of Huaraz. Here is a quick guide to the best activities around Huaraz. DAY TRIPS Daily sightseeing tours These tours are great for those of you who are not so active, or who need to acclimatise before heading out into the mountains. LLANGANUCO – This tour visits the villages in the Huaylas Valley (Carhuaz, Yungay, Caraz), and the beautiful Llanganuco Lake. Be aware that you will only spend from 40 minutes to one hour at the lake. Daily departures. CHAVIN DE HUANTAR – This tour takes you to Chavin, a village situated on the other side of the Cordillera Blanca in the Conchucos Valley. Here you can visit the Chavin de Huantar UNESCO World Heritage site, featuring some of the oldest and most significant pre-Inca ruins in Peru. You also make a stop at the lovely Lake Querococha along the way. Departs every day except Mondays when the ruins are closed for maintenance. PASTORURI – This tour visits the southern section of the Cordillera Blanca, with the amazing Pastoruri glacier, which is still well worth a visit despite having lost 40% of its ice in recent years. You can’t help but be impressed by the huge ice cliffs and the Puya Raimondii – a rare 12m high bromeliad plant which you visit on the way to the glacier. Make sure you become acclimatised before going on this tour as the glacier is at 5000m. Departs every day. Day hikes These hikes are perfect for those needing to acclimatise before a trek, or for those with limited time. LAKE CHURUP, 4485m – This is one of the closest and easily accessible hiking routes from Huaraz, leading to a very beautiful turquoise/emerald green coloured glacial lake. It can be quite challenging as there are some steep sections, and there is a rock wall before the lake which you need to scramble up to (there are wires to help you up). It can be tricky in the rainy season when the rock is wet and incredibly slippery, so be careful. It is recommended not to hike alone; for those of you with limited hiking experience it is advisable to go with a guide, as he will carry a rope that will help you go up and down the rock wall safely. For experienced hikers a guide is not necessary as the path is easy to find. The trailhead at Llupa can be easily reached by public transport. LAKE 69, 4550m – This is undoubtedly one of the most beautiful hikes in the Cordillera Blanca. Located in the northern

section of the national park. From Huaraz it’s roughly a three hour drive to the trailhead (Cebollapampa), the journey is incredibly scenic with great views of Mount Huascaran and the Llanganuco Lakes. The hike is of moderate difficulty, but can be challenging for those with limited acclimatisation. You can reach the trailhead by public transport, but finding transport to get back can prove very difficult, so it is recommended to hire private transport from Huaraz. For those with hiking experience a guide is not necessary as the path is clear. The lake is stunning for its pristine blue colour, and its fantastic location at the foot of the mighty Mount Chacraraju. You are rewarded with awesome views of the Cordillera Blanca’s highest summits during the hike. LAKE LLACA, 4470m – This is one of the closest lakes to Huaraz. It takes two hours by private transport to reach the trailhead at the Llaca refuge. From there it is a short hike to reach the lake. The lake is not as stunning as others in the region, but it is a good option for those wishing to acclimatise with limited effort and time. It is possible to do ice climbing here, but the ice walls tend to be full of sand. LAKE AGUAC, 4580m – This is another lake located close to Huaraz. The trail starts at the ruins of Wilcahuain and is fairly easy to find. It is quite a long hike and the altitude can make it challenging. The lake doesn’t have a special colour, but there are some great mountain views. TREKKING Easy to moderate treks SANTA CRUZ TREK (four days) – Undoubtedly the Cordillera Blanca’s most famous and popular trek. It is suitable for novice hikers, but good acclimatisation is essential before starting the trek. This trek deserves its fame; offering varied scenery and endless views of majestic snow-capped peaks, jewelled glacial lakes and gorgeous Andean valleys. For those with ample experience of trekking at high altitude, this trek is doable without a guide, but be sure to follow the national park rules especially to carry all your rubbish out of the park. Ask in town for directions before heading out, as although easy to follow, the path is not signposted. Departures for this trek in an all-inclusive organised group run daily in high season, but standards vary from one company to the next. The trek can be completed in three or four days, but if you do it in three days you will miss the side trip to the Alpamayo base camp and Lake Arhuaycocha, which is undoubtedly one of the trek’s highlights. OLLEROS – CHAVIN TREK also known as LLAMA TREK (three days) – A less popular trek, it mainly crosses vast expanses of puna, following ancient pre-Inca and Inca paths that lead to the village of Chavin. There are no glacial lakes and few snow-capped mountain views during this trek, but you will come across isolated communities.

The Huaraz Telegraph The Huaraz Telegraph

WARNING FOR TOURISTS: AVOID THE RATAQUENUA CROSS AND DON´T HIKE FROM THE RUINS OF WILCAHUAIN TOWARDS THE BAÑOS TERMALES IN MONTERREY Moderate to challenging treks QUILCAYHUANCA – COJUP TREK (three days) – A stunning trek which goes through some less-visited, but none the less stunning valleys of the Cordillera Blanca. It is a much tougher trek than the Santa Cruz for two reasons. First there are no donkeys to carry all the equipment, so you will have to carry a backpack weighing around 15kg (the weight depends on the number of porters accompanying the group). Second, because the pass is much higher. At 5050m the path leading up to it is very steep, rocky and generally not well trodden. The way down from the pass is even steeper and more challenging. This trek is perfect for fit, experienced hikers who wish to experience peace and tranquillity. Good acclimatisation is essential before starting the trek. AKILPO – ISHINCA TREK (three days) – This trek is similar in difficulty to the Quilcayhuanca trek, although donkeys can be used (they do not go over the pass but go back and around). The pass is very high at 5050m and the path leading up to it is steep and not well marked. The trek starts at the pre-Inca ruins of Honcopampa, and then goes up the Akilpo Valley through beautiful forests of local quenual trees, before reaching the superb Lake Akilpo just before the pass. Then you go down to the Ishinca Valley. This trek is perfect for fit, experienced hikers looking for an alternative to the Santa Cruz trek. Good acclimatisation is essential before starting the trek. ISHINCA – COJUP TREK (three days) – This trek is vastly different to all the others, because it includes a glacier traverse requiring the use of equipment such as crampons and ropes. Bringing you much closer to the giant icy peaks of the Cordillera Blanca, the views are simply spectacular. This trek is only suitable for very fit and experienced hikers, but does not require any mountaineering technical knowledge. Thorough acclimatisation is essential as you will go well over 5000m. It is possible to include a summit climb to Mount Ishinca (5530m) during this trek. Challenging treks HUAYHUASH TREK (eight or ten days) – The Huayhuash full circuit trek

is considered as one of the world’s most beautiful. It is a trek that requires good physical condition and acclimatisation, because it crosses many high passes (eight passes minimum ranging from 4650m to 5050m) and the campsites are all above 4100m. Trekkers are rewarded with endless breath-taking views of stunning glacial lakes, pristine valleys and icy peaks, which can be extremely close. There are many alternatives possible for the itinerary, but the most common group departures are for the eight day and ten day treks. Those with more time and wishing to explore less visited valleys of the range can do the trek in as many as 15 days, and take the more challenging high trail. Those with limited time can do the four day Mini Huayhuash trek, which visits one of the range’s most beautiful locations: the Lake Jahuacocha area. CEDROS – ALPAMAYO TREK (seven or ten days) – This trek is less popular than the Huayhuash trek, and also very different, although not less beautiful. It is probably a bit more challenging too, even though the passes are not as high (eight passes on the full circuit ranging from 4400m to 4850m), but the trails leading up to the passes are much steeper. You are unlikely to meet many trekkers and will come across several isolated Quechua communities who still follow a traditional lifestyle. The highlight of this trek is undoubtedly the view from Jancarurish of Mount Alpamayo, known as the World’s most Beautiful Mountain thanks to its near perfect pyramid of ice. You will not see as many glacial lakes and close-up views of glaciers on this trek as on the Huayhuash trek, but the landscape is much more varied and the isolation a real bonus. The trek can be done in seven days starting in Hualcayan or Huancarhuas and finishing in Pomabamba, allowing one worthwhile rest day in Jancarurish, but take into account that you need a full day to travel back to Huaraz from Pomabamba (night buses are not recommended due to frequent robberies on this route). For those with more time, you can add extra days by joining on to the Santa Cruz trek at the end, making it a ten or 11 day itinerary if finishing in Cashapampa, or a nine day itinerary if finishing in Vaqueria. The trek can be done in reverse, but it is tougher.

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Tourist Information

The Huaraz Telegraph JULY 2013 MOUNTAINEERING Keep in mind that glacier conditions change from year to year, so what was an easy walk across a glacier one year may be a difficult passage through crevasses the following year. So make sure to check the latest conditions in town before setting out on any of these expeditions. Non-technical climbs These expeditions are suitable for people with no previous mountaineering experience; however, even though they are often referred to as trekking peaks these expeditions, although not technical, are harder than a trek, due to the fact that you wake up at midnight, walk in the dark and use heavy equipment such as mountain boots and crampons. If you are fit and have experience of trekking at high altitude and want to experience being on a glacier, then one of these peaks is for you. MOUNT PISCO, 5752m (three days) – This expedition offers some of the best summit views of any peak of the Cordillera Blanca, and for that reason is very popular. Crossing the moraine takes two to three hours and is considered the most challenging part of the expedition. It is possible to include a hike to Lake 69 on the last day. MOUNT VALLUNARAJU, 5686m (two days) – This expedition can be quite challenging, because no donkeys can be used, you have to carry a 15kg backpack up a steep path to moraine camp on day one. It is very popular due to its proximity to Huaraz making it a short expedition.

of ice axes. It offers one of the Cordillera Blanca’s most beautiful ascent routes along its southwest ridge.

altitude sickness.

Technical climbs

MOUNT ALPAMAYO, 5947m (seven days) – This is a serious and technically challenging expedition requiring the ascent of a 470m high ice wall. Excellent crampon and ice axe techniques are essential. Please note that the ascent from base camp to high camp is particularly challenging, given that you need to climb up a 60m high ice wall (at a 55 degree incline), carrying your backpack. Known as the World’s Most Beautiful Mountain, each year Alpamayo attracts many mountaineers from the world over.

These expeditions are suitable for people with plenty of technical mountaineering experience. It is recommended to climb a 5000m+ peak before starting any of these expeditions in order not to suffer from

MOUNT ARTESONRAJU, 6025m (five days) – This is a mentally, physically and technically demanding climb requiring the ascent of a 600m high ice wall, at an incline of 50 degrees. Excellent crampon

MOUNT HUASCARAN SOUTH, 6768m (seven days) – Although not very difficult from a technical point a view, this is an extremely tough expedition suitable only for mountaineers with plenty of experience, because of the difficult climbing conditions (crevasses, risk of avalanche, extreme cold and altitude). Do not underestimate the difficulty of this climb.

TIP OF THE MONTH Bouldering in Keushu

Lago Keushu is a little lake with a vivid turquoise colour located some 60km northeast of Huaraz offering access to the Rajururi gorges, at the foot of Mount Huandoy, on the edge of the Huascaran National Park. This place is very little known despite offering great climbing on a variety of good quality, white granite boulders with excellent friction – including several highballs – in a magical setting. There are around 30 climbable boulders set around the lake, which offer some 100 routes with difficulty ranging from 5a to 7b+, suitable for beginners and experts alike. You can get there easily by public transport from Yungay, taking a combi heading for the Llanganuco Lakes, and getting off at km. 17 on the Llanganuco road. From there, it is a 30-minute walk along a dirt road to get to Keushu Lake.

MOUNT ISHINCA, 5530m (three days) – This peak is mostly used as an acclimatisation peak for those wanting to climb the higher and more technical Mount Tocllaraju, which is situated in the same valley.

Intermediate level climbs These expeditions are suitable for people with some mountaineering experience. It is recommended to climb a 5000m+ peak before starting any of these expeditions in order not to suffer from altitude sickness.

MOUNT CHOPICALQUI, 6354m (four days) – This expedition has the same technical difficulty level as Mount Tocllaraju, but it is a more difficult climb due to the much longer summit route and higher altitude. It includes the ascent of two 60m high ice walls requiring the use

and ice axe techniques are essential, as well as an excellent physical condition. Two ascent routes are possible, either from Lake Paron or from the Santa Cruz Valley. ROCK CLIMBING & BOULDERING Rock climbing and bouldering spots are plentiful around Huaraz. All types of climbing, at all levels, with many different types of rock, fantastic views, and no chance to get bored! Check with local climbers or travel agencies specialising in rock climbing for a detailed list of the necessary equipment and help with logistics. CHANCOS – Located 32km northeast of Huaraz in the foothills of the Cordillera Blanca, Chancos is the perfect place for beginners and climbers with limited experience. After climbing, a good option is to visit the Chancos Hot Springs which are situated an easy ten-minute walk away. LOS OLIVOS – This is the closest climbing spot to Huaraz, situated only three kilometres from the town centre. It features a large number of equipped sport- climbing routes in five different sectors, as well as several boulders, suitable for climbers with some experience. From here you get an amazing panoramic view of the town of Huaraz and the Cordillera Blanca. ANTACOCHA – Situated 35km south of Huaraz in the Cordillera Negra it is one of the few places in the area offering long routes with a variety of difficulty levels, suitable for climbers with limited or a lot of experience alike. The 180m high wall towers high above Lake Antacocha. This place offers a magnificent vantage point of the Cordillera Blanca, especially at sunset. HATUN MACHAY – Located 104km south of Huaraz at 4300m high in the Cordillera Negra, this stunning rock forest is a paradise for rock climbing and bouldering with some 250 equipped sport-climbing routes and countless boulders, suitable for all levels. It is also a great place for hiking, as it offers some amazing viewpoints with views of the Cordillera Blanca, Huayhuash and the Pacific Ocean, as well as many caves with ancient rock paintings and carvings dating back to 10,000BC.

MOUNT TUCO, 5479m (two days) – A very seldom climbed peak, although it offers a relatively short and easy ascent, as well as the chance to see the rare Puya Raimondii plant.

MOUNT TOCLLARAJU, 6034m (four days) – This expedition is perfect for those who have climbed a non-technical summit previously and want to take the next step in the mountaineering world by trying something more technical. It includes the ascent of two 60m high ice walls requiring the use of ice axes. The relatively short summit ascent makes it a perfect first 6000m+ peak.

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The Huaraz Telegraph

It is possible to camp by the lake, or if you prefer more comfort you can stay at the nearby Llanganuco Lodge, situated a mere 10-minute walk away and offering a wide range of accommodations including luxurious rooms, dormitories and camping.

The lake is at its most beautiful during the wet season when the water level is high and the vegetation around luxuriant. The size of the lake is considerably reduced at the end of the dry season, but the advantage is that more boulders that are otherwise submerged in the lake can be climbed. Whichever season you choose to visit, there are enough boulders to keep you climbing for hours or even days!

Keushu is also home to some archaeological remains dating back to 600 to 1100 AD and belonging to the Wari culture, which include several dozens chullpas (tombs), many built under large boulders or rock shelters, all of which appear to have unfortunately been looted. One boulder is decorated with ancient paintings, so please do not climb this one!

THE SPHYNX – Also known as The Colossus of the Andes it is situated 90km northeast of Huaraz in the Paron Valley and is considered to be one of the most amazing granite rock walls in South America, offering a variety of traditional climbing routes with superb views of the snow-capped summits of the Cordillera Blanca surrounding it. Given its extreme altitude (5325m), it is essential to be well acclimatised before setting off on this climb and to have sufficient experience in traditional climbing. It takes an average of three days to complete the climb. Information and photo ´tip of the month´ provided by Marie Timmermans from QUECHUANDES Travel & Adventure Agency

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Local News

The Huaraz Telegraph JULY 2013

At an altitude over 5,000 metres, it will be the highest-located wind generator in the world. The commissioning and installing were carried out by volunteer engineers from several countries and will serve to provide electricity to the stores located at the grounds of the Pastoruri glacier. It has shown that it is possible to produce clean energy in remote locations using the benefices of renewable energy, although about 40% of the rural population of Peru still isn’t connected to any form of electric supply.

The Huaraz Telegraph Interior of Rosas Pampa, the Sport Ancash stadium, picture courtesy of Rene Altmann

Illegal brothels closed in Independencia district Officers from the District Municipality of Independencia have shut down various nightclubs set up as clandestine brothels, in the Cascapampa and Acovichay sector. The clubs were named as El Tiempo, where authorities found out that the club was operating without the proper authorisation license, and the Bahía club where very poor standards of health and safety requirements were confirmed, and where a group of damas de honor were caught wearing only their underwear. In one of the back rooms, used condoms were found. In La Caleta club, violation of local regulations charges were brought forward. The raid was carried out in the morning of Friday, June 14th by staff of the Economic Development Management, the Security Management and Citizen Participation of the Independence district, Serenazgo (town guardians) and the Public Prosecutor. After the intervention, Mayor Alfredo Vera Arana, said he will be relentless against this type of activities that hinder the development of the community, so informed Ancashnoticias. com.

the players to do so. Club president Mallqui has a long history at the club. He made the headlines in October 2010 when Sport Ancash was accused of poisoning their promotion rivals Hijos de Acosvinchos, when water supplied on the pitch resulted in four players collapsing on the field. The hospital results later revealed a positive test result for benzodiazepine, an anxiolytic drug used to treat insomnia. Back then, Mallqui had commented to generaccion.com by saying: ¨I was able to find out that the players ate rotisserie chicken and had some energy drinks before the game, which ended up hurting them.¨

Central Market Huaraz without power Bring a torch when doing your shopping at the Mercado Central de Huaraz because its electric bills are unpaid. The market owes no less than S/. 100,000 (almost U$D 38,000) to power-supplying company Hidrandina, so informs ancashnoticias.com. Hidrandina is also the company responsible for at least five power cuts a month in Huaraz and is unfortunately holding monopoly, being the only power supplier for Huaraz.

Sport Ancash manager and six players quit

Installation of highest wind turbine gets a mention in the World Guinness Book of Records

These are tough days for any diehard Sport Ancash fan. Not only are the Amenaza Verde (Green Threat) just a couple of points clear from the relegation zone, their promotion bid received another slap as their Colombian manager, José ‘Chepe’ Torres, resigned.

More news on the electric power front as the company WindAid based in Trujillo, with the support of the ERM (Environmental Resources Management) Foundation, installed a windmill power generator at the base of Mount Pastoruri, near Huaraz.

What really happened remains unclear: various websites contradict each other and report the manager being sacked instead by the club´s president, José Mallqui. Torres will be replaced by Professor Miguel Guzman, previously in charge of Sport Águila, and who is said to be an experienced manager. Manager José Torres was not the only person to turn his back on Sport Ancash: no fewer than six players (Juan Carrillo, Víctor Zapata, Raúl Vera, Joao Ward, Orlando Allende and Wilder Galliquio) left the club as there also appeared to be payment issues. Almost all players at the club have a month-to-month contract, which allows

WindAid works to promote green energy in Peru, a country where many forgotten communities still function without electricity, whether it’s by installing wind generators in traditional pueblos, or educating youths about renewable energy. WindAid provides projects in Peru for people taking a gap year, career break, retirement or time out from education, employment or training. Volunteers engaged in the cultural experience of a lifetime can effectively improve the lives of many Peruvians. WindAid has now gained a place in the Guinness Book of World Records for constructing the highest located wind turbine in the world. Great job!

Huaraz Map Guide finally released In the third week of last month, the 12th edition of Map Guide was released and, as the previous editions, it offers tourists updated answers on questions such as where to go, what to see and what to do. Strangely, the free guide booklet fails to mention the no-go areas like Rataquena and the walk from the ruins of Wilcahuain towards the hot springs of Monterrey, which have been all too frequently in the news because of muggings and assaults on tourists. In a contribution to the same booklet, sponsor and American owner of the self-proclaimed Third Best Café in Huaraz Café Andino, Chris Benway listed the Map Guide on the 27th spot, out of 27 reasons why Huaraz kicks ass. He claims it contains very few spelling mistakes.

Bus driver makes run for mountain bathroom but sadly loses his life and leaves passengers waiting This brief news is a horror story for those involved. Human disaster took place, early morning on June, 20th when the driver of the interprovincial company El Solitario (who set off from Huari to Huaraz) had to stop because of stomach upset and park the vehicle in one of the

The Huaraz Telegraph The wind turbine being installed, picture from a Youtube video

safer sections. After securing the parking of the vehicle, Mr. Aurelio Hidalgo Huerta informed his assistant that he would be in charge of the safety helm. As night started to fall and the driver still having failed to return to the vehicle, the passengers and the assistant decided to get off the bus and start looking for the missing man, using flashlights. Not far from the bus, the steep precipices alongside the road surprised the group. The assistant soon enough located the body of the driver, who seemed to have slipped and fallen from a 50-metre high cliff, instantly losing his life. The passengers, who were shocked by this unfortunate accident, had to wait for dawn to report the details to the Huari Police, who arrived at the scene of the accident and removed the body of the very unfortunate bus driver, in the presence of the Province Prosecutor.

AntacochaFest III - Involves music, sports, culture and nature. For tourists and Huaraz locals, looking for something different to do during Independence Day festivities, look no further than the AntacochaFest III, organised by Asociación DECIDH, a civil society of volunteer young professionals and students who take action to bring about positive change in the region of Ancash and promote community and rural development. This free festival will take place over two days, Sunday 28th and Monday 29th July, over the national holiday weekend. The idea behind the event is to bring tourism to a rural area in the Municipality of Recuay as part of a long-term eco-tourism plan for the village of Pampacancha, near lake Antacocha. The festival itself will take place next to the lake in the Black Mountain Range, with a stunning view of the White Mountain Range from across the Huaylas valley. How better to enjoy the festival activities than in a setting of such natural beauty? AntacochaFest III will feature extreme sports competitions such as BMX, downhill and rock climbing, cultural activities including a local villagers’ horses race, guinea pig fancy dress, as well as a gastronomical fair of regional dishes prepared by locals who will have been previously prepped during a free food hygiene and preparation course, and selected to sell their dishes at the festival. On Sunday, the programme finishes with an electronica fiesta with various DJs. Guests are welcome to camp in a specifically designated area. After all the adrenaline-fuelled sports competitions on Monday the event culminates in a music concert with various bands playing music from different genres.Anyone in Huaraz during those dates should come along! Directions: Take a combi towards Recuay/Catac and tell the driver ‘cementario de Recuay, cruze de Pampacancha’. From the road, it will take 30 minutes to walk to the Pampacancha village, and approximately another twohour hike to the lake. The route to the lake will be signposted from the main road.

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The Huaraz Telegraph JULY 2013

Around Huaraz

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Places of interest

around 70°C. Jangas (2825m)

around Huaraz

Here lies the parish of Don Bosco, an Italian Roman Catholic priest who in the 1800s established schools and carpentry and woodcarving workshops for orphans and street children. Jangas is a charming village not far from Tarica, and Anta airport.

Here we present a guide to the villages around Huaraz in the Callejon de Huaylas and Conchucos. Most of them are easily accessible by microbus (colectivo). Ask your hostel owner or landlord where to catch the colectivos in Huaraz.

Tarica (3600m)

Callejon de Conchucos The Callejon de Conchucos, which runs almost parallel to the Callejon de Huaylas to the east of the Cordillera Blanca, is less accessible and, therefore, less frequented by visitors, but it is equally beautiful. The Callejon de Conchucos is known mostly for the old Chavín de Huántar Ceremonial Complex. It offers a variety of off-the-beaten-path villages complemented by local festivals, typical music and customs. Take enough cash because most villages in the Callejon de Conchucos have no ATMs. San Marcos (2960m) San Marcos is located nine kilometres north of Chavín de Huántar, in the Mosna valley. Here you can expect basic tourist services as well as spectacular mountainbiking options. The Mosna Valley is also known as Magnolia Paradise because of the many flowers that enrich the area. At the nearby Antamina mine you could find fossilised remains of dinosaurs. Huari (3150m) The province capital is located 152km from Huaraz; about four hours by public transport. It is famous for its gastronomy and the María Jiray Waterfall. Seven kilometres from Huari is Lake Purhuay which also offers camping, trekking and mountain-biking facilities. Also worth visiting is the archaeological centre of Marca Jirca. Chacas (3359m) Less-known hikes to Huari or Yanama are accessible from this little village (Yanama is also the start of the Santa Cruz trek). Chacas offers tourists an excellent opportunity to experience the Andean lifestyle when visiting the main plaza. Flanked by the colourful windows and doors of the white painted houses; many with complex wooden balconies.

This drive-through town is part of the conventional tour towards the Llanganuco Lakes and is best known for its many roadside shops selling handicrafts and potteries. The Huaraz Telegraph Iglesia de Chacas de la Virgen de la Asunción, picture courtesy of Amelita González

There is a direct bus route to Huaraz with Transporte Renzo. San Luis (3131m) Capital city of the province of Carlos Fermín Fitzcarrald, it will take no less than six hours to reach this township from Cátac. Famous for the archaeological site of Cashajirca located three kilometres north of San Luis, and the beautiful Sanctuary of Pomallucay, this church offers its home to the image of Lord Justice Pomallucay. Other villages in the Callejon de Conchucos worth considering visiting are Pomabamba, Piscobamba and Llamellín. Callejon de Huaylas

Carhuaz (2645m) Famous for its local ice-cream and home to a lively Sunday market were countryside inhabitants sell various handicrafts, fruits and typical products from the region such as Manjar Blanco (blancmange). Marcará (2950m) This village mainly serves as a drivethrough between Huaraz and Yungay. It is famous for its baños termales (hot springs) of Chancos. Weekdays are a lot quieter; at the weekends locals from the surrounding villages descend and the pools tend to become overcrowded. Expect the temperature of the pools to be

Yungay (2500m) This is where tourists get the best views of the Huascarán, which is the highest mountain in Peru. Nowadays the old city of Yungay is a national cemetery because of the earthquake of 1970 that hit central Peru – killing 25,000 people in the city alone. The new town was rebuilt 1.5km north of the destroyed city. Yungay has the best access to the Llanganuco Lakes, Laguna 69 and Yanama where you could start the Santa Cruz trek. Caraz (2250m) Caraz is 32km from Paron Lake, the largest lake in the Cordillera Blanca, and is surrounded by 15 snowy peaks. Canyon del Pato – a rock formation formed by the movement of the Cordillera Blanca – is also in this region.

The Callejon de Huaylas stretches for 150km in the Anca sh Region of Peru with the Santa River running along the valley floor. The Huaylas Valley is more crowded and most conventional tours run over paved roads. Recuay (3422m) If you have ever wondered how Huaraz looked before the earthquake of 1970, then visit Recuay. The structure of the narrow streets and adobe houses (houses built from sod) give a good impression. Just before arriving in Requay at the Bedoya Bridge, on the right hand side, starts the 183km road towards Olleros and Huaripampa, which is also the beginning of the Llama Trek towards Chavín de Huántar.

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The Huaraz Telegraph JULY 2013

In Peru, tourists also often pay the price of crime

Within the first month of having arrived in Peru, her Visa card was cloned and several transactions fraudulently occurred in Lima while she was in Iquitos. Forget trying to make collect calls, forget public telephones, forget efficient telecommunication system in the Amazon. And, this was just the start of her troubles, Lauren Marchand writes.

Passing all the security features but one (that I could see after examining it), its texture wasn’t obviously different – it felt crisp and new – but I could see when holding it up to the light that the small ‘100’ in the top-left corner was slightly misaligned with its shadow. Fortunately, I had other notes and was able to pay for my meal, but left with a burning sense of embarrassment.

I spent a few years working with foreign currency and did my homework on the Peruvian Sol before arriving, aware that there were troubles with counterfeits in Peru. When I needed to withdraw funds, I always visited a bank during business hours, where I could have the bills ascertained of their authenticity by a teller. But came May 16th, 2013 when I had to use a regular ATM in Huanchaco.

The following morning, I went to the BBVA office in the Adventura Mall where I was explained that all counterfeit is delt with at a central BBVA branch in Trujillo’s centre, JR Francisco Pizarro 620. There, I met with a service manager. Copies of my passport and of the false note were taken, along with some additional information and receipt slip correlating to my transaction. I left with my copies and was told I could come back in one week’s time.

From the BBVA Continental, I took out a small amount and went to enjoy my dinner at a restaurant. It was when I

As scheduled, I came back to speak to the service manager a week later. The same desk was now occupied by a

The Huaraz Telegraph LimaEasy provides readers a complete and accurate description on counterfeit notes

I made a fuss about not having been explained this initially. The current manager assisted me in completing this, as I discovered how difficult it would have been to complete this on my own. The call was made to the BBVA distribution office in Lima where they must initiate the investigation, referencing me with a claim number. It took over an hour to complete the phonecall. The promised turnaround time frame for a response was 30 days. Certainly, there are opportunists who may have interest in making dishonest claims, but as a tourist, I felt I deserved the benefit of the doubt. Mislead by the previous service manager and disgruntled by the waste of a week’s time, I clung to my official claim ready to see this through. What tourist has 30 days to wait to recover their funds? Luckily, I had plenty of time.

The Huaraz Telegraph The BBVA, Banco Continental ATM sign as it can be found in Huanchaco

attempted to pay with one of the S/.100 I had just received that the server looked at me sadly, handed my money back and told me that the bill was a counterfeit.

different person. I recounted my situation along with my instruction to return this day but was now being told that I must officially file my complaint by telephone.

I was to wait for response by e-mail, as it was the only mean through which BBVA could contact me. It took approximately two weeks after officially filing my complaint to receive a reply. In summary, their e-mail stated that their ‘strict security and internal control provisions could not trace the serial number of my counterfeit

bill to any of their disbursment records’. Needless to say I was not satisfied by this explanation, adamant that their internal control and security weren’t sufficient to prove that the counterfeit didn’t come from their ATM – since it had. Printing off the official response from the BBVA, I returned to the branch in Trujillo for a third time, and met with yet another manager. Once he had finished reading the answer I had received, I asked him what more could be done. I’m sure I rolled my eyes sarcastically when he explained that I could file yet another complaint. As I attempted to make my point once more, I just overheard a cashier chit-chat with his colleague saying that counterfeit had been found in their cajeros. The manager placed my form dismissively on an already large pile, saying that all would be sent to BBVA’s Centro de atención de Reclamos, in Lima, and that I would have to wait up to an additional 30 days for a response. From a related article found in The Huaraz Telegraph’s April 2013 edition, Card Skimming in Huanchaco, by Amad al Sadi, I had read that cameras had been positioned outside the cajeros

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The Huaraz Telegraph JULY 2013

Trujillo/Huanchaco

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and found online at www.indecopi.gob. pe. Instead of wasting soles and waiting in offices, I contacted INDECOPI through the contact found on their website, forwarding all communications between BBVA Continental and myself, along with copies in attachments, hoping to receive direction from them. The Huaraz Telegraph

‘should a tourist have a problem with an ATM, there would be a video clip to help identify any wrong doing’. The very least I hoped for was to have the BBVA cajero investigated for tampering, but since I wasn’t getting anywhere fast there, I decided to place an official noticia with the Huanchaco police. I took all my copies and walked down the malecon to a group of idling police officers to ask them what I should do next. Several officers perused my papers but none of them could offer me a solid bit of advice. One officer actually suggested I’d contact my bank and my embassy to see if they could help. Knowing I was the only one who had something to lose, I took the opportunity to wax lyrical about the counterfeit problem in Peru, and how badly the problem affects the country’s economy, weakening the value of their sole, and how average people are paying for the losses when financial institutions do not take responsibility of protecting the public from the flaws of a system. Honesty doesn’t pay in Peru: the costs incurred – trying to recoup the original amount – now totalled S/.123. I asked if I would have had less trouble should I have simply tried to spend it, and the officers sadly nodded. Only after most of the officers were bored with my gringa troubles (returning to their newspapers or other conversations) did one of them tell me that I could file a complaint with an office dedicated to consumer protection, elimination of bureaucratic barriers and unfair competition and commercial advertising called INDECOPI (Instituto Nacional Defensa de la Competencia y de la protection de la Propriedad Intelectual, the National Institute for Defense of Competition and Intellectual Property, located Calle Santo Toribio de Mogrovejo Nº 518, Urb. San Andrés II Etapa, Trujillo)

After a quick Google search on the topic of counterfeit that yielded few results, I decided to contact the administrator on an English online guide to Lima, called LimaEasy, for advice or insight on how I may advance having my complaint resolved in the only way that I saw fit: by recovering my funds. Having contacted IDECOPI and LimaEasy within the same hour on a Thursday afternoon, I was pleasantly surprised that LimaEasy answered my message in less than 24 hours. LimaEasy, www.LimaEasy.com, was sympathetic to my ordeal and shared my opinion of BBVA’s unprofessionalism. In addition to referring me to INDECOPI, LimaEasy supplied me with the information for SBS, La Superintendencia de Bancos, Seguros y AFP (Superintendancy of Banking, Insurance and Pensions). SBS, found at www.sbs. gob.pe, is a public institution responsible for the regulations and supervision of financial systems, insurance and private pensions, as well as prevention and detection of money laundering and terrorist funding. I intended to have every possible responsible body take part in my plight. In the very least, I hoped that the trouble I was causing would spark a change for the best, even if it only meant increased security at the ATMs in Huanchaco. I have resigned into accepting that it is unlikely I’ll ever be reimbursed for the loss of my S/.100. In an effort to further publicise the issue, I am considering conducting a public survey in front of the cajeros of Huanchaco, to collect enough complaints from those who have received counterfeit banknotes. Also, I hope to inform potential customers of the BBVA Continental cajero # 271 of the risk in paying for an untrustworthy service, where BBVA will not be found accountable. Lauren Marchand

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The Huaraz Telegraph JULY 2013

Trujillo, city of everlasting spring, and the beach town of Huanchaco The further up north you go in Peru, the warmer the weather will become. While travelling up north, you should definitely make a stop at the city of everlasting spring Trujillo and or its beach town Huanchaco. Trujillo is a perfect mix of city life and easy-going pace in Huanchaco. You can have the taste of fast life and history in Trujillo and then a slower more surfer dude chill mode mentality in Huanchaco. What to do in Trujillo? There are many things you could devote yourself to in Trujillo and history is a good start, if you are this way inclined. While you are here you should pay a visit to the archeological site Chan Chan, the largest adobe city in the ancient world and just ten minutes outside of Huanchaco, between Trujillo and Huanchaco. It was constructed by the Chimus and has survived the biggest earthquake in Trujillo.

The largest mosaic wall in the world Huanchaco and Trujillo have some beautiful graffiti artwork adorning the city walls. Some of them display political statements and others are just made for the fun of art. But many people aren’t aware that Trujillo houses the world’s largest mosaic wall. Close to the inner city and all around the National University of Trujillo is where you will find this amazing artwork. Walk around it, and you will realize that the pictures on the wall represent the history of the Peruvian people. It has taken many talented artisans hard work and dedication to position the tiny colourful tiles and recreate these stories. During the 80s, the National University was surrounded by a row of trees that did not look inviting to anyone but thieves. The need for a wall was growing for safety reasons. Shortly after the wall was

The Huaraz Telegraph A beautiful construction decorated by artist Rafael Hastings

in 1992. The goal was to fill the threekilometer square of the university’s wall extension with 30 million mosaic tiles. The calculated cost of the wall at its completion is two million Soles. Today it is truly a beautiful work of art, definitely worth a visit if you are passing through Trujillo or Huanchaco. What to do in Huanchaco?

erected, it became the support on which taggers and graffiti artists to express their art, especially coupled with political statements. As time passed, the idea of giving the wall an artistic touch seemed a natural evolution.

Surfing and consistent waves are what bring most tourists to Huanchaco. The beach town has a very serene and nice feel to it, and many tourists tend to prolong their visit in Huanchaco for that reason. After a hectic travel through South America, there is nothing better than chilling with a bottle of Trujillo beer and some friendly locals. Amongst surfers, it is a popular beach town – even though the water is very cold more or less the whole year – because you can always get your surf on whether you are a beginner or an advanced surfer. Along the beach’s main road, you will find the reed boats (caballitos) that many fishermen still sail every morning, to fish the food of the day.

Under the direction of the famous painter and artist Rafael Hastings, the first mosaic tiles were placed on the wall

The sunsets here offer some of the most amazing views you’ll ever see. The sky turns into this magnificent show of

The Huaraz Telegraph Part of the university’s wall with 30 million mosaic tiles

The city is also amazing to take a walk around and enjoy its colonial and religious architecture. It’s a city full of colours and life. Start off by the Plaza de Armas, which is the main square in Trujillo city, and walk your way down Pizarro. Further down to Mayarista, the big open market, devote some time to the thieves market, named Tacora, just behind Mayarista.

colours every evening, and many people gather to get a glimpse of the beautiful artwork of nature. Huanchaco is also home of one of the two oldest churches in Peru. A walk up to the so-called ‘make-out point will give you some beautiful view of the whole town, overlooking the pier and the beach. Travelling to and out of Trujillo and Huanchaco You can reach Trujillo and Huanchaco by plane via Lima, which takes about an hour. The airport is a ten-minute ride away, situated between Trujillo and Huanchaco. The long-distance busses like TRC, Cruz del Sur, Linea are all in the city of Trujillo. As general guidance, a taxi ride between Trujillo and Huanchaco should cost no more than S/.10 to S/.15. You can also catch one of the combis or buses for the cost of S/.1.50. Huaraz can be reached using our prime sponsor Linea, or Empresa 14 and Movil Tours. There are no day buses towards Huaraz, only a night service. The journey takes around six hours and tourists should expect to arrive at their destination between 5 and 6 am. Text and pictures: R. Amad Al Sadi

“Surf Hostel Meri with Yenth Ccora Surfboards in front of the surf points single, double, twin and dorm rooms with hot water wifi, guest kitchen, car parking, camping cafe with home made cakes and special coffees surf school & surf shop offering; surf lessons, board rental, board repair and surf gear such as leashes, fins, grips, wetsuits, wax custom-made surfboards by local shaper Yenth Ccora yoga classes handcrafts & beachwear boutique Avenida La Rivera 720, Huanchaco Tel: 044 462264 hostel.meri@gmail.com, yenth.ccora@gmail.com”

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Trujillo/Huanchaco

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Muggings in Huachaco Even though it is not high season at the moment, tourists are still targeted by thieves. During the month of June, two tourists were mugged on two different occasions within the span of a week. Pierre Touzet was on his way back from Trujillo to Huanchaco on a Friday night, in a taxi with his friends. When they arrived in Huanchaco, they all got off and reached into their pockets to notice how they didn’t have enough money to pay the taxi. As they were telling the taxi driver that their money wasn’t enough, Pierre reached through the window to take his jacket that was still in the car when the driver decided to hit the gas and pull the jacket off of Pierre’s hands. In the jacket Pierre had a new phone and couldn’t believe what had just happened.

The Huaraz Telegraph Be careful with your belongings when using an overcrowded public bus

Later that week, Rafael Rivera was on his way to Trujillo by public transport. It was midday and the bus was crowded. As he was listening to his iPod, which was then in his pocket, he decided to change songs. He retrieved the iPod from his pocket then put it back in. The lady next to him started looking for something under the chair, pushing him a couple of times, making him move his legs, in hindsight trying to distract him. The bus had just stopped when, all of a sudden, the music cut off and as people alighted the bus, he realised the lady had disappeared. Reaching into his pockets, Rafael’s fears materialised: his iPod had been stolen.

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The Huaraz Telegraph July 2013 edition