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THE HUARAZ TELEGRAPH Made in Huaraz

June 2012

FREE/GRATUITO

NEW PATH CREATED AT SANTA CRUZ TREK

For the third consecutive time we are bringing the latest news about the, by a landslide affected, Santa Cruz trek. The Huaraz Telegraph has good news; the trek has been reopened because of a new path created. With the help and thanks to the villagers and labourers of the Cashapampa area. See page 5 for opinions on the newly transformed trek.

WHAT ARE ´BRICHERAS´? Travelling through South America, you must have heard of this word. It can however, not be found in the dictionary of the Real Academia Española. Nonetheless is the word known by almost every Peruvian.

The Huaraz Telegraph tried to find out where the word comes from and what it means? Are there (m)any bricheras in Huaraz? Pages 8 & 9

The Huaraz Telegraph on Facebook and now 24 pages full of information! We would like to invite our readers to keep up to date by joining us on Facebook. Most stories will be readable online and hopefully next month we can present our website with downloadable articles of previous editions and much more. We´ll be in touch!

ANDINISMO FESTIVAL STARTS THIS MONTH

From the 26th of June to the 1st of July, the Callejón de Huaylas will be hosting the Festival del Andinismo Cordillera Blanca 2012; featuring ski, snowboarding, wall climbing, paragliding, mountain biking, cross country and more, including mountain film screenings, traditional dance exhibitions and live open air concerts; all within the beautiful landscapes of the Callejón de Huaylas. See page 15 for more information about this spectacular event in the Andes.

GOVERNMENT REACTS TO PUBLIC CONCERN!

In the previous edition of The Huaraz Telegraph we published two pictures of streets being dismantled which let to public outcry. In a special letter to the press the government of Huaraz wishes to inform the inhabitants and visitors of Huaraz about the current conditions of the streets and its progress.

Mayor Vladimir Meza inspecting work in progress

Also in this June edition: • New city map on pages 12 & 13. • Travellers information! • Kristof is leaving but why? • THT criticized by a reader! Page 3. • Peruvian and Andean food. • Globetrotters visit Huaraz. P. 23. • Volunteering options in Huaraz • Gigglepedia on page 22. • Going to Trujillo/Huanchaco or Lima? Info on pages 18 & 19.

What do you know about Peruvian football besides the fact that their national team is poor? With EURO 2012 kicking off this month, we wanted to digg into Peruvian football history. Read about the local Sport Ancash and the first (Peruvian) player ever to be sent off at the World Cup of football. Pages 6 & 7

What to do in and around Huaraz See pages 20-21 for details.

Read what the Mayor had to say on page 17.

Sierra Andina micro brewery produces quality beer in Huaraz. Page 4.


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Tourist Information The Tourist Police

What to do when you have something stolen or feel that you have been ripped off or are unhappy about your treatment by a tour agency, hotel, restaurant, transport company, customs, immigration or even the police? You can call the 24-hour Tourist Protection Service hotline (Servicio de Protecion al Turista, also known as INDECOPI). Staff are trained to handle most complaints in English. If an immediate solution is not possible, the service claims to follow up disputes by filing a formal complaint with the relevant authorities.

The Huaraz Telegraph June 2012

Apart from i-Peru, cafes and many restaurants, The Huaraz Telegraph is also available for free at the following hostels and hotels in Huaraz. In return for their name, they receive our newspaper available for you to read in their hostel! The Huaraz Telegraph does not recommend any hostel in particular as we are completely neutral. Please inform us if you are staying in one of the places listed below and our newspaper is not available or if you have seen our newspaper thrown away or even burned in the chimney by your hostel owners or their employees, please inform us by writing to editor@thehuaraztelegraph.com

Bare in mind that the police in popular tourist spots, such as Cusco, Arequipa and Huaraz have become much stricter about investigating reported thefts, after a spate of false claims by dishonest tourists. This means that genuine victims may be grilled more severely than expected and the police may even come and search your hotel, hostel or tour agency for the “stolen” items. However, provided your claim is genuine, you should stick to your guns and insist that you get a written report. Peru’s headquarters for the tourist police are in Lima at the Museo de La Nacion, Javier Prado Este 2465, 5th floor (tel 01/225-8699, 437-8171 or 435-1342). Huaraz´ tourist police can be found on the Plaza de Armas, Av. Luzuriaga 724 near the Municipality and i-Peru. Their telephone numbers are 42-2920 and 42-1351. Remember, the tourist police are there to help the tourists. The Tourist Police can be recognized by there green uniforms and their friendly smile.

In case we have missed your hostel, our apologies. Please contact The Huaraz Telegraph and make sure your establishment will be mentioned in the next edition. In case of any errors, please also contact The Huaraz Telegraph by sending us an email at info@thehuaraztelegraph.com.

We are looking for people with some spare time who would like to contribute by writing a story or article for The Huaraz Telegraph. All sendings will be considered, no matter how obscure or out of the box. info@thehuaraztelegraph.com

¿Porque mi empresa no figura en esta edición? Hemos tenido poco tiempo para presentarnos a la mayoría de negocios de Huaraz y sus alrededores. Sin embargo, el agradecimiento a aquellos emprendedores que se dieron un tiempo para escucharnos y considerar nuestra propuesta. Todo emprendedor sabe que el cliente es la razón de ser de su empresa. Con esa premisa, decimos que los auspiciadores son la razón de ser de The Huaraz Telegraph. Las empresas que depositaron su confianza en nosotros saben que al año se supera el millón de visitas de turistas entre extranjeros y nacionales (según cifras de i-Perú).Las empresas que depositaron su confianza en nosotros saben que al año llegan a Huaraz más de 30 000 turistas extranjeros y más de 800 000 nacionales (según cifras de i-Perú). Si usted es dueño de un bar, restaurante, lavandería, peluquería, sauna u otro tipo de negocio debería considerar trabajar con The Huaraz Telegraph. OJO: Encontrará un ejemplar de The Huaraz Telegraph en los hospedajes y hostales más importantes de Huaraz, así como en cafés, restaurantes, en el Peruano Canadiense, en el Centro de Idiomas de la UNASAM, i-Perú y por supuesto donde nuestros auspiciadores. Tambien se encuentra The Huaraz Telegraph en el Club House de Pinar. Para mayor información, contáctenos en - ventas@thehuaraztelegraph.com ó llámenos para programar una cita con nuestro editor y fundador de The Huaraz Telegraph, Sr. Rex Broekman al 975-771-602.


The Huaraz Telegraph June 2012

Reader´s opinions

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Earlier this month we received an email from Alexandra Thurston, originally from Castle Rock in the States, now living in Huaraz. Alexandra is one of many people that have contacted us during the past months, giving her point of view on The Huaraz Telegraph. Unfortunately we can not publish all emails we have received but I have chosen Alexandra´s because being the editor I think it is important to show our readers that we take comments seriously so I felt it was best that the author of the Volunteering story and the Food story, should reply himself. Thanks to all who are enjoying our newspaper. Please keep sending your opinions and contributions to make The Huaraz Telegraph even better! Regards, Rex Broekman Editor of The Huaraz Telegraph Dear Alexandra Like any other reader, I value and appreciate your comments on The Huaraz Telegraph and thank you for taking the time to read and digest the information available. Firstly I would like to respond to your comments on Bruce Peru, “While yes they might not be a legitimate organization, it is still important to gather as much accurate information as possible and then let the public make their own decision.” At no point did we say or imply they were not a ‘legitimate organization’, if I can

refer you to the text, it said “They could be the best thing Peru and Latin America has ever seen but we’ll never know unless they contact us.” If you know someone from Bruce Peru who would like to fill us in on all the great things they are doing around Peru and beyond please help us get in touch with them, it’s hard to get information from a company that doesn’t reply to emails. All information that was given in the article was taken straight from their website bruceperu. com, the only information outlet that was available to us.

≈ LA RESERVA ≈

TURKISH BATHS AND SAUNA ¨PAMPERING YOUR BODY AND MIND¨

Private and shared cabins with steam or dry option Refreshing cold showers available Therapeutic & treatment table with the following options: chiropractic & acupressure heat therapy (infrared wavelengths) acupuncture and massage. Enjoy fresh juices, natural yogurt with fruit, fruit salads and sandwiches in our little cafeteria.

From only10 soles p.p.

Parking possibility available

Call us: 971863202 RPM#0417713 We are located 15 mins from Huaraz towards Caraz. Take a combi on Fitzcarald before the bridge. La Reserva is on the right hand side after 8 km.

As for people making up their own minds, we don’t tell people what to think, they are free to look at the Bruce Peru website themselves and make up their own mind. What use is a newspaper if it doesn’t make people think and challenge boundaries? This is what we would like to establish with our newspaper, any information that was written in the volunteering story came directly from the volunteering organizations website, an email from the organization or in an interview.

though, everyone has their own independent mind and can decide which foods they do or do not like, it simply doesn’t matter what ones opinion is. If someone told you dogs were horrible would you buy a cat instead?

Regarding tamales, it says it in the name, ‘mal’ - who can argue with that? Seriously

Sincerely Trevor

I would like you thank you again for your opinions and contribution and hope that you continue to enjoy reading our newspaper like the many others who have congratulated us on our project.

Brasa Roja offers the best roasted chicken, pastas and much more. For hostel delivery call 043-427738. To be found on Luzuriaga (main street) nr. 915


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Advertorial/Publirreportaje by Trevor Eagleson

The Huaraz Telegraph June 2012

Visit the Sierra Andina tap room

In September 2011 a new microbrewery opened its doors for the tourists and population of Huaraz, thirsty for a real full flavored beer to hit the Peruvian market.

A taste of home in Huaraz

Created by an American, Sierra Andina produces four distinct beers ranging from a smooth, mild easy to drink pale ale (lightest of the beers) to my favourite, a full bodied dark ale which if you’re missing Guinness as much as I am you have to try. All of the beers are available in most tourist restaurants around town but to truly appreciate the effort that has been put into creating this excellent beer you have to visit its tap room. The Sierra Andina bar is located in the Cascapampa area just a 5 minutes taxi ride from the Plaza De Armas and is opened Tuesday – Sunday from 3pm to 10pm. To greater involve yourself with the Sierra Andina beer and gain a better understanding of the brewing process they offer free guided tours of the bar with any questions you may have, answered by the friendly American bartender.

Fun and games at the Sierra Andina bar As well as guided tours on the educational side of the brewing process, like any other good bar the Sierra Andina tap room is the perfect place to kick back and relax after a long days trekking with some good quality beers, a wide variety of music and a friendly game of darts or various board games with your fellow travellers. For details on upcoming events such as live music, fun interactive competitions or if you simply have any questions regarding Sierra Andina you can visit their website http://sierraandina.com/ or join the Sierra Andina Facebook page.

The four distinct flavors of Sierra Andina Inti Golden Ale At 5% the light weight of the family but a popular one among Peruvians. Huaracina Pale Ale The editor´s favourite. Asked him to explain why, he couldn’t. “I couldn’t even explain a Dutch beer. Why I like Grolsch? (He shrugs his shoulders)” This one is possibly a bit strong for Peruvian taste buds but for us foreigners used to stronger beers – perfect.

Thirsty punters enjoy their beers at the Sierra Andina bar

In case you get smitten with a dose of the munchies, complimentary snacks are available or if you have a larger hole to fill American style hotdogs are available for purchase. Free filtered Andean water is also available to help avoid the dreaded morning after hangover and like any regular bar, wine and another drinks are also available

Coming soon: home brewing course At the time of writing Sierra Andina was in the process of creating a two day home brewing course in English for the tourists in Huaraz to help spread the home brewing philosophy and give the opportunity for you to create your very own unique flavored beer. The two day course will include hands on instructions of how to build your own home brewing equipment and practical information on brewing that perfect beer for you to enjoy in the comfort of your own home.

From personal experience of brewing my own homemade beer in Ireland I would strongly recommend it to any

beer fan out there, it’s great sitting and enjoying a beer bought in a bar or store but nothing beats the satisfaction of drinking a beer that you have nurtured into existence yourself. For further news on this exciting endeavor and to enquire about taking advantage of this fantastic idea please check out the Sierra Andina Facebook page.

Alpamyo Amber Ale Red in color with a hint of caramel which ranks as my second favorite beer. Don Juan Porter My pick of the beers. Initially hit with a coffee taste which subsides to leave a strong full flavored stout throughout. If you’re a fan of other strong, dark beers you will love this one. We encourage you to give each beer the attention it deserves, you never know over time which one will turn into your favorite beer.

What is the meaning of ‘ale’, you ask? Ale along with lager are the two main styles of beer. The primary characteristics of ale are: It is top fermented, meaning the yeast floats on the top of the wort in the fermenter rather than settling to the bottom. It is fermented at warmer temperatures, generally above 60°F. It is the oldest form of beer. Ale is typically fruitier and more full-bodied than lager.

The Sierra Andina bar is located in the Cascapampa area just a 5 minutes taxi ride from the Plaza De Armas and is opened Tuesday – Sunday from 3pm to 10pm. Tell the taxi driver to bring you to Avenida Centenario Cascapampa 1690 (frente a Coca Cola en Cascapampa)


The Huaraz Telegraph June 2012

Local News

SANTA CRUZ TREK REOPENED You might have read in the previous editions of The Huaraz Telegraph about a landslide at the Santa Cruz Trek which destroyed the original route. We are pleased to inform our readers that most agencies are now selling packages of the complete trek as a new route has been created.

I talked with David Lazo and Marie Timmermans, owners of the Quechua Andes tour operator and asked them for their opinion on the newly reopened Santa Cruz Trek. As we talked about donkeys being stuck up to their waist in mud during the original trek, I asked them if they had started to sell the new Santa Cruz trek.

back from the trek who were mostly all happy with the current trek. Previously some people were complaining that the full route wasn’t possible and weren’t completely satisfied finishing and starting the trek at the same place. The tourist

“In parts it was still quite muddy, a lot of rain and the trek could be a problem. There were markers across the mud but with rain you could expect at least four hours trotting though heavy mud.¨ (Lets hope the rain stays away then, hopefully by the time you read this the dry season will be well under way, the month of May was terrible.) “If you decide to use an agency I would suggest checking all equipment before paying and making sure there is going to be enough food on the trek, for breakfast one morning we had only a piece of bread and a fried egg, not enough to go trekking with. My tent was fine, it was very, very cold but I would

“We’re not ready to send people to do the trek until we’re sure the conditions are safe for everyone involved. The most worrying part is the donkeys, who is thinking of them? Tourists need to start thinking, they are not stupid but how is it possible to sell, for example the Huayhuash for S/400, pay the guides and cooks a fair wage, provide an excellent service and look after the environment while doing it? It’s not.” “Trekking agencies like this don’t care about food, about guides or the well being of the animals used, they only care about selling. We think the other agencies are irresponsibly selling the complete trek. We haven’t sold the Santa Cruz trek since last year, we now offer the mini Huayhuash as an alternative. How is it possible to know if the trek is safe until you go there yourself? Tourists need to become better informed, agencies, i-Peru and the tourist police all have different stories to tell, none of which you can trust. The best information is gained by simply asking around, talk to other tourists, talk to the local people and they will soon discover the truth.” I also talked with Aldo Herrera of Galaxia who was thrilled that the original trek could be completed with donkeys now but he stated that they had been selling the complete trek for around 4 weeks at the time of writing (May 21st) without the use of donkeys. He said “The National Park has told us that it’s safe to complete the whole trek which is excellent news for the tourists and for the region of Cashapampa. Two months without the trek has damaged the region finically, the reopening of the trek can only be good news for the people of the region and their future. We have to thank them for fixing the trek as the people of Cashapampa have been working very hard to create a new path for the trekkers.” ¨We’ve talked with people who came

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by Trevor Eagleson

traitorous than I thought. At times I got stuck in mud up until my knees, I was luckyly strong enough to pull myself out, maybe others wouldn’t have been so lucky. It was like a mine field, I was poking the ground below me with a stick to test the ground trying to pass what seemed like a muddy sea. I was terrified; at times I saw dead decaying animals and red mud with a terrible smell, ‘the smell of death’ as the animals had got stuck in the mud and died.” After completing his muddy ordeal, Andrei encountered around 100 workers from Cashapampa that were in the process of creating the new route, they gave him some soup and talked about the recent events. “Awesome people” he proclaimed, as we discussed the work they were doing and the S/. 40 per day wage they´re earning to do it. There was one main point that Andrei repeated time and time again, the lack of signs on the trek and he warned others planning on doing the trek without the aid of a guide to do their research. He admitted that he was unprepared and unaware of the full extent of the damage the landslide had created.

now has the option to start wherever they want which can only be good for the tourist industry of Huaraz.” So we’ve talked to a couple of agencies but what do the tourists think? I talked with Andrei Gear who completed the trek without the aid of any agency or guide and Craig Wakeford who completed the trek with an agency who had two very different stories to tell about their experience. Craig Wakeford is an Australian who did the trek with 10 other people; we won’t name the agency he did the trek with because he was complaining about the lack of food and the fact that there was only one guide. He also commented on the lack of signs around the trek but mentioned that it is very doable without an agency if you want to carry your own food and equipment. “At times the new route was a little dangerous; it didn’t seem like they had done a lot of work to restore the trek but it was still a very enjoyable trek and I would recommend it to anyone who wants to do a trek that isn’t very technical. It did snow at the top of the Punta Union pass which was unfortunate for the others looking for good views but I was there for the landscape and being Australian we don’t get to see any snow so it was a nice experience for me. It was pretty awesome”.

also strongly recommend checking your tent and sleeping bag before leaving.” Andrei Gear, from America, had started the trek with three others from Cashapampa on May 14th but found himself all alone shortly into day two as he out paced his friends. Andrei waited until the next day but as 11am came and passed, there was no sign of anyone so he decided to walk on, “My friends weren’t physically fit, I didn’t want to walk back but as I was walking, I came across two options, crossing a river to the left or turn right to what seemed like a flat passage. As there were no signs, I did the logical thing and did not cross the river, I turned right but soon realized it was much more

“I want to give a fair account of the trek, it’s a great trek but they need to put signs up to prevent other people from getting lost and stuck in the mud. Someone could die! It’s very important to sign the new route because of the hazards that could lay ahead. Information is very important as well; tourists need know about the current conditions of the trek. Hopefully with this interview, we can persuade people to think and plan very carefully before setting out on their own.” My first question when talking with Andrei was ‘did you like the trek?’ He replied: “LOVED IT” and added later “I had an amazing time in general” and “I’m always happy, that’s life”. “If everyone found the positives in the negatives more often the world would be a much better place.”

Dead animals on the Santa Cruz trek and Andrei Gear from the U.S. at Punta Union. Have a look at http://fx42.com/sc to view a video Andrei made of his trek.


Football History

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The Huaraz Telegraph June 2012

World Cup legacy: Peruvian the first ever to be sent off Peruvians definitely get about, and whenever given the opportunity to be the first at something, be it fly across the Alps or get sent off the field in the world’s first ever global soccer competition, they jump at the chance. The first World Cup competition for the world’s most popular sport – football – took place in the summer of 1930. Played in July of that year in Uruguay, Peru faced Romania in a fast-paced game. At 38 minutes into the event, a Romanian defender called Steiner collided with Peruvian Mario de las Casas. Left-back Mario de las Casas was the joint founder of the Universitario de Deportes, along with Plácido Galindo and Eduardo Astengo in 1924. Commonly known as La U, they are one of Lima’s two major football clubs, bitter rivals of Alianza Lima. The collision left Romania with just ten players as there was no option for substitutes. Though an accident, the Romanians were not happy, tension was high and the game was continuously on the

verge of turning into a full on fight according to the recollection of Peruvian team member Luis de Souza Ferreyra. In his opinion the Romanians were attempting to even the odds by either injuring or provoking a reaction from the Peruvians get someone sent off.It wasn’t until the 56th minute though that they succeeded. In a game marred by brawls, Mario de las Casas apparently went too far, and in an era when red and yellow cards had yet to be invented, was simply ordered off the pitch by the referee. The final score was 3-1 to Romania, a sign of things to come. Thanks to the efforts of today’s Peruvian national team, it is unlikely that any of them will be sent off from a World Cup game again.

The stands of the stadium on May 24th 1964 (picture by Bettmann/CORBIS)

Juancho from Lima, an active blogger since 2007: ¨I remember that in the early 1970s things were pretty hush-hush about that incident, mostly because the government clamped down on news about it and hid the true magnitude of the death toll. We all knew something bad had happened, but no one could point to any reliable information, just rumours and second-hand reports. For example, when I asked my parents about it, all they could tell me was that “no one really knows what happened” but that my uncle had been a medical student at the time and he reported the hospitals full of dead and wounded, but that that was never reported in the papers.¨

Mario de las Casas and the national selection of 1930 (picture from enperublog.com)

The 1964 Lima soccer riot

On record as one of the worst disasters in sports history, it resulted in a death toll of around 300 people and saw as many has 500 injured. It was May 24th of 1964 and a hugely important game was taking place in Peru’s Estadio Nacional in Lima. Argentina were playing Peru in a qualifier that would see the winner go to the Tokyo Olympic Games. It was not going well for Peru, who were 1-0 down with just a few minutes left of play. Then what seemed like a miracle occurred. Peru scored an equalizer and jubilant celebration erupted throughout the home-dominated stadium where 48,000 watched. Peru only needed an equalizer to go through. The joy didn’t last long though as the Uruguayan referee Angel Pazos blew his whistle, shook his head and disallowed the goal. Joy turned to anger as torrents of abuse were directed at the referee. An Afro-Peruvian fan from Callao, known locally as the “Negro Bomba” ran onto the pitch in an attempt to argue with the referee. One

policeman held him back while another half a dozen arrived on scene, pulled out their batons and started beating him. The response from the crowd wasn’t in the least bit supportive of the police. The agitated hoard of spectators surged forward. This is when tragedy struck. The police fired canisters of tear gas into the stands and there was mass panic. Hundreds were crushed immediately in the stampede, many of them killed. As people attempted to flee the stadium, they found that the stadium management had locked all the gates and so many more were crushed in the stairwells. As people finally found ways out, a scene of devastation was left behind. The stadium was strewn with the bodies of the dead and injured, clouds of tear gas still lingering. Out on the street, crowds of angry fans

Negro Bomba pushes forward despite the impending beating (picture by Bettmann/CORBIS)

attacked police, linching those they could. As news of the massacre spread across the city, of parents searching among the dead for their missing children, riots broke out and more police were attacked. In order to put an end to the rioting and looting, the government sent the army out onto the streets and enforced a curfew. Until this day it is considered one of the most notorious riots in the history of Association Football. am determined to do something About the author of the articles: interesting abroad after university.¨ Both stories were written by Stuart Starrs who was born in London but He now runs the enperublog.com and living in Lima. Back in 2006 Stuart said is the owner of Waqa Studios, a design the following: ¨I have always been studio, offering a range of professional interested in living in another country, I graphic design services in Lima.


Sport Ancash

The Huaraz Telegraph June 2012

Huaraz´ local football team, are hoping for another run into the Peruvian Premier Division. Founded on the 22nd of April in 1967, they have a short history playing internationally but became world news two years ago. Sport Ancash play their matches at the renovated stadium of Rosas Pampa, only 4 blocks from the main street. Their ´ local´ rival is José Gálvez FBC from Chimbote and matches between them are known as the Classical Ancash Derby. Sport Ancash played four years on the highest level between 2005 and 2009 due to winning the Copa Peru in 2004, they gained promotion with a win over Deportivo Municipal. Highlight of the club was when they reached the last 16 of the Copa Sudamericana (equivalent of the former UEFA Cup in Europe). Their home match ended in a 0-0 stalemate versus the much bigger Brazilian team Palmeiras from Sao Paulo. The return match ended in an acceptable 0-1 defeat which meant they were eliminated from the tournament. Their nickname is La Amenaza Verde, in English this means The Green Threat, referring to their green kit colours. We would like to take our readers back to October 2010, to the day that the mighty Sport Ancash from Huaraz, became infamous.

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Four players collapse during match against Sport Ancash. Dark times in the history of football in Huaraz as Sport Ancash trailed their promotion rivals Hijos de Acosvinchos 3-0 in October 2010 and in a desperate attempt to crawl their way back into the match spiked the energy drinks of the opposing players. The drugged water resulted in four players collapsing on the field with hospital results revealing a positive test result for benzodiazepine, a drug with depressant effects.

boy, stepped onto the field and we shared drinks,”

with the new season having kicked off in the middle of last month.

Hijos de Acosvinchos boss Americo Ibanez said at the time: “My boys say Ancash medical staff gave them a liquid which made them feel dizzy and faint. When they returned the bottles so the other could team drink from them as well, someone snatched them out of their hands.”

Sport Ancash President, José Mallaqui replied by blaming the rotisserie chicken the opposing team had eaten before the match. Mr Mallaqui told generaccion.com: “I was able to find out that the players ate rotisserie chicken and had some energy drinks before the game, which ended up hurting them,”

To view the mighty Sport Ancash in action in their newly built ´modern stadium´, tickets can be bought on match days at the stadium or beforehand at the Sierra Andina bar for 15-30 soles.

“We want the authorities to investigate this and prove where this substance came from. We’re intending to launch a formal complaint.”

In another quote Mr. Mallaqui said: “They ate barbecued chicken with spices and ended up taking indigestion tablets afterwards. I’m sure these four men fainted because of that and the physical effort they put in.”

“We have the tests and we’re going to report it. We’re waiting for those responsible to be punished.” The first player to collapse, Salinas added “From what I remember… the goalie from the other team was being treated for an injury… Someone from the their (Sport Ancash) coaching staff, it must have been the equipment manager, the physical therapist or maybe the water

The stadium Rosas Pampa, capacity 18.000 and mountains in the background

Poor excuses from the Sport Ancash president but I’m sure the pollerias in Huaraz were happy with Mr Mallaqui’s explanation to the bizarre events that had unfolded, which made the little club of Huaraz world famous and a laughing stock in the football community around the globe. Sport Ancash remains today in the Second Division of Peruvian football

Note: we cannot guarantee how many of the opposing team will collapse during the game but we can guarantee some good, English Conference quality, everybody runs after the ball, football. Enjoy!

The Sport Ancash club logo

Welcome to all visitors of this generous city, surrounded by towering mountains.

I have been contemplating on the beer sales in Peru and Huaraz. For many years Peruvian industrial breweries didn’t want competition, not supporting the development of craft beers and not accepting other international beers. What I am trying to say is that the beer market is a monopoly surrounded by bias laws that favor the development of these industries. So the concept of a new craft beer is difficult and new for almost all Peruvians. Huaraz is one of the few cities in Peru that has two breweries which together have nearly 10 different types of beer. This is great, if you take one of each, I am sure you’ll have a wonderful night. Sierra Andina and Lucho´s Beers are two breweries in Huaraz who are competing to become this city´s favorite and it will be very difficult to find another city in Peru that offers so many unique beers. Thanks a bunch, wwfor having the patience to read my thoughts about the local beer business and I wish you a great holiday in my city Huaraz. Note: If you would like to have a beer with me, I will be waiting at the Trece Buhos (13 Owls) bar and from June 10th in our new lounge located in Parque Ginebra near Casa de Guias. See you there! Yours truly,


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Culture

The Huaraz Telegraph June 2012

The phenomenon ´Brichera´ explained Another friends making story by Rex Broekman

A ´brichera´ you´re saying? Does it bite or does it cost money? Some do, I have been informed. They can be blond, black, brown, fat, skinny, beautiful, young or old but many speak fluent English. They even teach you Spanish if you want to and sometimes there is even a free oral exam included. If you are having bad luck, or just have been thoughtless not wearing a condom, these bricheras might send you to the doctor years afterwards when you are already happily married with children. Speaking of which; some might even ruin a person´s marriage or force you to marry them. Are they that bad? Of course not, they are as nice as you want them to be and if you get the sack or run out of money someday, you can always become a ´brichero´ or ´brichera´ yourself. Living here for over four years, I was wondering what the Net had to say about Bricheras. ¨Brichera is Peruvian slang for a Peruvian woman who aims to meet gringos (foreigners) - men from North America or Europe. A woman who is simply attracted to foreign men is not necessarily a brichera. Brichera implies that the woman is seeking to climb the social ladder by creating a new life or somehow benefit financially in the short- or long-term from relationships with foreign men¨, according to Urbandictionary.com. If I had to believe the TravelPeru book, published by Mobilereference: ¨There are two types of bricheras: the first type are women who are genuinely looking to meet in the hopes of dating or marriage or even a quick fling. The second type are women that search for foreign men with the implicit purpose of exchanging sex for small gifts or money. This second type of brichera is risky, especially for foreigners lacking local sensibilities, since it involves prostitution.

These bricheras do not use contraception reliably and therefore pose a higher risk for transmitting STDs (Sexual Transmitted Diseases). If you decide to have a fling, make sure to use a condom! ¨ The most detailed description of a brichera is written by Thomas Carroll from lonewolfadventure.net. He states the following ¨The word brichera is used in many Latin American countries to describe a woman who uses tourists for money, a visa to a Western country, or both. The male equivalent is brichero. I use the word brichera here because it is convenient; bricheras are not confined to Latin America, they are found all over the world. Most of the time women use brichera tactics on men, less common is a man who uses the tactics on women. The brichera tries to win the love of a tourist through deceitful ways. A typical brichera will compliment a tourist heavily. Many times she’ll tell him that she loves

According to others, the word brichero comes from the English word bridge, because bricheros would be looking for a bridge towards money, sex, marriage or status.

him even when she barely knows his name. It’s always easy to have sex with a brichera as she uses this for more leverage. She almost never wants just a one night stand, as she wants to maximize the return on her investment. She will do everything she can to get the tourist to have strong feelings for her, or to even fall in love. That way he’ll be more likely to buy her things, pay for her bills and send her money once he’s returned home. Bricheras target tourists because in many countries it is assumed that all travelers and tourists are rich. Many think that tourists have money and want sex, while bricheras don’t have much money but can give sex.

A brichera that’s good at her job will have boyfriends in several countries around the globe. She usually doesn’t need to worry about her boyfriends’ finding out about each other, as it is very rare that two boyfriends will be in her area at the same time. The tourist might be with the brichera for a few days or weeks before leaving, then she goes after another one. If an old boyfriend is in town, she’ll stay with him and not look for others to prey on during that time. A brichera will keep a list of boyfriends to contact whenever she wants money. Some boyfriends will even send her money on a regular basis.

Brichera work is a far cry from prostitution. In prostitution a guy pays for sex and that’s it. Bricheras don’t directly charge for sex (they do so in subtle ways) and they manipulate the feelings of the tourist. Most bricheras are not looking for a serious relationship as may be claimed.

The boyfriend is usually completely unaware that the girl he loves has a network of lovers around the globe who have all heard the same story about how she doesn’t have enough money to pay the bills, can’t pay the rent, or someone in her family is sick and she can’t afford

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The Huaraz Telegraph June 2012 to pay for the medical expenses. Even without these stories a boyfriend usually likes to spend money on his girl. Typically a brichera will see a tourist at a disco (but it could happen anywhere). She’ll approach him and start a conversation. Then they’ll dance. If the guy doesn’t buy her drinks, she’ll go after another guy. If he does buy her drinks she’ll politely ask if he can buy her friends some drinks too. If he does, then he has passed the brichera’s “dumb ass” test and she’ll stay with him for the rest of the night (unless she finds a more promising prospect).

Culture It can be difficult to discern if a girl is a brichera or not. But if you look for the money, visa and easy sex signs it shouldn’t be too hard. Around the world the brichera enterprise is big business. Avoid it like the plague. Otherwise the person who ultimately gets screwed is you.¨

ask for money to be sent to them primarily by wire transfer, often using elaborate stories such as ´sick relatives´. A sanky’s ultimate goal is to obtain a marriage visa to the tourist’s native country, marry the tourist and then leave for areas of the country with large populations of their country persons.

At the time of writing the article, the English version of Wikipedia did not uphold a written clarification about this phenomenon but linked to the following: Sanky-panky!

In Peru they are known as bricheros (which are male and usually target female tourists) and bricheras (who are females and target male tourists). They hang out in popular tourist destinations and may

She’ll take him back to her apartment for sex. In the morning she’ll compliment her new “boyfriend” and maybe even tell him that she loves him. She asks for his phone number and email address. She tells him that she wants to continue seeing him. So they go out again and each time it ends in sex. When the brichera senses that the guy is developing feelings for her then she’ll really lay it on thick. Once the tourist leaves, the brichera will continue to keep in touch with him. She’ll tell him how much she misses him and just can’t wait for him to come back. Then they can have more sex. If the relationship starts to get really strong (or the guy is desperate) then she’ll push him into getting married. That way it is usually easier for her to get a visa to a Western country, which is the dream of many people around the world for some misguided reasons. Bricheros are not as common as their female counterparts, but they’re out there too. Bricheros usually don’t try to get the girl in the sack right away; instead they use subtler, more “romantic” tactics.

Sanky Panky (2007) the movie, rated with 5.7 on IMDB.com

What da heck is Sanky-panky? Yup, I was wondering the same. ¨A sanky-panky, or sanky, is a male sex worker, found in the Caribbean in the Dominican Republic. A sanky-panky solicits on beaches and has clients of either sexes or only women. When with men, the sanky-panky assumes an active (a.k.a. top) role, but when with women, assumes the role of an ideal lover. While strictly speaking they are not prostitutes, since they do not directly negotiate money for sex, they are more likely to create a pseudo-relationship which can be continued when the guest returns home. They then attempt to

even involve themselves in business involving tourism in order to reach their prey. The word might come from the English word “breach” or its partially false cognate “brecha” as they reach through the breach made between themselves and these tourists in the process of establishing a parasite and host asymmetrical economic relationship between both. The curious thing with bricheros is that they succeed not in raw appeal but in the personalities they build. Representing a mixture of the streetwise local and the knowledgeable savant on

9 their native culture they appeal to the tourist’s interest in the exotic and their existence furthers terrible social gaps between both sides of the experience.¨ Can you find bricheras or bricheros in Huaraz? Of course you can, you might be translating this article to one at the moment. Doing some research about this subject made me read wonderful stories, though I came across many negative descriptions of bricheras. I guess you can make up your own mind. I also found out that, according to mountainproject.com and submitted by Josh Cook in 2009, there is even a whole rock formation, which can be mounted, named after this phenomenon. ¨The formation ´La Brichera´ was named after the Peruvian girls who will do anything to get a white man. Likewise this massive chunk of rock that sits at nearly 5000 meters will pull you in but can have a trick or two up its sleeves to keep you coming back for more even though there might be a lot of suffering and pain involved. It is the highest and arguably best multi-pitch trad within an hour of Huaraz (driving time). There is still a ton of potential on Brichera for those willing to work at altitude. Only a small percentage of the plum lines have been picked.¨ ¨A Peruvian girl who will do anything to get a white man¨. I´d have to confess that this is definitely the most awful and most ludicrous description I´ve found on the word brichera. As mentioned before, people can make up their own mind and decide who is a brichera or brichero or not. Well, for those who want to conquer a brichera but are a just tight or short on money, here you have been presented a cheaper option with more good news to follow: condoms not needed!


10 A list of volunteer opportunities around Huaraz There are many volunteering opportunities in the Huaraz area. Below is a rough guide of what you can expect to pay and what you can expect to see in return for your contribution. If you’re thinking of volunteering in the Huaraz area for anything from a few days to a few months then hopefully this page can help you decide. From small grass roots operations to what looks like multi national corporate organizations, Huaraz and its surrounding areas have quite a lot to offer on the volunteering front. Seeds of Hope – Founded in 2006 by Yury Chavez and three others, Seeds of Hope is an organization that focuses on providing opportunities to the poorer children of Huaraz. They currently have a school in Huaraz which last year housed 50 children, some of whom came to the school themselves seeking help and an education. Having been to the school myself I was greeted by the children who were clearly happy to be there. Nutritious food was provided to them and they all brushed their teeth before leaving the school. I talked with Yury who said: “the most important thing for Seeds of Hope is that we want to break the poverty barrier through education”. Seeds of Hope is currently asking for a donation of $200 per month to volunteer. This is used to buy food and material for the children as well as the rent for the school grounds. Accommodation is available at their volunteer house for around

Volunteering options by Trevor Eagleson

The Huaraz Telegraph June 2012

S/. 500 per month per person but if you’d rather look for your own accommodation they said that would be okay as well. Although I sent them an e-mail under a different name asking if I could make a one time donation of $250 and look for my own accommodation to volunteer with them and received no reply. When the children leave the school, Yury states that it’s still very much a priority to aid their development through the Peruvian school system by supplying school materials and uniforms if needed. He added: “our long term goal is to see the children develop and give them as many opportunities as possible. We’re giving them what they need and we feel proud and happy about it”. Respons – A self proclaimed “for profit business”. Respons prides itself on sustainable tourism which also offers the possibility to work in the Huascarán National Park, teaching English or helping with building improved kitchen facilities in the community of Vicos. We enquired about the costs of teaching English in Vicos for a period of 6 months and living with a local family in the village. “Normally the costs are around 12 - 15 USD per night (including food, no transport) but for a long stay like this we should talk to the local school and see what they can arrange, maybe someone from the school or parents can host you. I am sure we will find some cheaper solution.” Bruce Peru – Based in Trujillo and formed in 2001, Bruce ‘Peru’ are now working in Panama, Colombia, Ecuador, Bolivia, Chile, Argentina, Brazil and Venezuela. I have been informed that they have left Huaraz in 2008 but they still mention Huaraz on their website as one

A volunteer teaching at Andean Alliance

of their volunteer bases. Plus I have sent them an email under a different name asking them about volunteering in Huaraz to which they replied with an email detailing their volunteering accommodation facilities with no mention of no longer working in Huaraz. Bruce Peru asks for payment of $580 per month to volunteer, with small discounts available if you stay for six months or more. The volunteer fee does not include food as listed on their website (bruceperu.org) “We also help organize daily lunch & dinner at two restaurants within the volunteer complex @ about $2 per meal (*the cost of meals and transport to our projects – S/1 each way – are not included in the volunteer fee).” Included in the price is three hours of Spanish lessons per week, Cable TV, internet access or wifi if you have your own computer and use of a telephone. The organization specializes on giving the opportunity for street children to enter the school system to greater increase their prospects for a bright and prosperous future. I’ve been talking with Rachel Williams, the author of our street children article in the May edition, who volunteered for Bruce Peru in 2007 who had nothing but good things to say about the organization. She did however mention that when she volunteered she paid “about $150 a month for food and accommodation”. Inflation has went up in the past 5 years or so but not by almost 400%. I have tried to contact Bruce Peru on several occasions asking them to justify such a large hike in prices from an ‘NGO’ that also expects to gain income from - as written on their website, “tuitions from our language academies (including English and French for Nationals, and new Spanish courses for Foreigners); plus direct payments from Agenda SOS Intewrnational Inc, our founder and friends” as according to their website under their ‘our estimated financial requirements for 2006’ section. A section which also mentioned their operating costs were in 2005 running at $12,000$15,000 per month.

It’s unfortunate that they didn’t reply to my various emails asking for more information. They could be doing some amazing things in South America and Panama but since they don’t want to talk about it the only thing we can look at is the price. Bruce Peru is easily the most expensive volunteer option that I have found in the Huaraz area, $580 per month to work and pay for your own food and transport in a city where you can find monthly accommodation with cable TV and wifi for S/. 450. Another quote taken from their website “in spite of the large number of volunteers who have served our programs, we remain a small organization” referring to their 2,228 volunteers to date. “We normally have between 5 and 45 International Volunteers serving at any given time”. Lets take from this quote off their website an average of 20 volunteers per month, meaning 240 volunteers per year, $580 for one month 240x$580 = $139,200 generated per year, not bad for “a small organization”. This is of course not even looking in their other organizations in the rest of Latin America… yep, such a small organization. We would love someone from Bruce Peru to contact us explaining what the monthly volunteer fees are used for and detailing the various activities conducted around the city of Huaraz in recent years. They could be the best thing Peru and Latin America have ever seen but we’ll never know unless they contact us. Teach Huaraz – Google ‘volunteer in Huaraz’ and Teach Huaraz currently comes up as number one and two on the search after the ads. With a ‘placement fee’ of $210 and a monthly fee of $420 for accommodation and food. I guess using as many key words as possible to gain these high Google hits and with it the best advertising possible for a volunteering agency in Huaraz is hugely important for an organization charging so much. Run by the Delgado family, Teach Huaraz offers the opportunity for the volunteer to teach in a local school and stay with a local Peruvian family, often the Delgado


The Huaraz Telegraph June 2012 family themselves. Changes for New Hope – A genuinely small organization run by the American Jim Killon who asks for a one time donation of $200 if coming from abroad to volunteer specifically for the charity. Anyone in the area is free to drop by anytime and volunteer their time and experience free of charge. Founded in 2009, Changes for New Hope was created to help the local children who are living in poverty, malnutrition, and substandard living conditions. They currently have four locations around the Huaraz area dedicated to improve the lives of these unfortunate children and their families. They teach English, math, creative development through art projects, interpersonal communication skills, selfesteem and values, among many others.

Volunteering options A quote taken from Bruce´s website “in spite of the large number of volunteers who have served our programs, we remain a small organization” referring to their 2,228 volunteers to date. “We normally have between 5 and 45 International Volunteers serving at any given time”, lets take from this quote off their website an average of 20 volunteers per month, meaning 240 volunteers per year, $580 for one month 240x$580 = $139,200 generated per year, not bad for “a small organization”. This is of course not even looking in their other organizations in the rest of Latin America… yep, such a small organization.

United States Peace Corp. – Requiring a two year commitment and unfortunately only available for American citizens. We would very much appreciate if one of the Peace Corp. volunteers in Huaraz would contact us so we can fully write about their role here. Sophie, a volunteer in 2011, spoke of her experience at the Peace Corp. in Huaraz: “I served as a Peace Corps volunteer in Ancash, Peru for over three years - the last of which was spent in Huaraz as the Volunteer Leader of the Ancash region. I’ve focused my time working with 70+ teenaged youth on sexual health promotion and teen-pregnancy, STI and HIV prevention through the support of a small PEPFAR grant.”

de Vida by writing to info@semillasdevida.info or just take combi number 15 to Unchus (not to Marian!).

The Way Inn Lodge – Ranging from short term volunteers of 2-6 weeks to long term volunteers of six weeks until “whenever you want to leave we guess, or until we get sick of seeing your face at the morning at the breakfast table” a direct quote from their website - bring a sense of humor if you decide to go with this one! Working for 6 hours per day comes with food and accommodation. Anything less than 6 hours work per day and you’re expected to either pay for your own food consumed for 2 hours work per day or pay a fee of S/. 35 per day for accommodation working 4 hours per day with food included. All volunteering options include one day off.

Andean Alliance – Located 12km outside of Huaraz via the Wilcahuain road and was founded by a Canadian couple. Andean Alliance has been working for seven years within the community around the area and is currently developing a project called ‘El Centro de Desarrollo de Yurac Yacu’. The project consists of a classroom for young children, 3-5 years of age. A second room is outfitted with donated computers and they are building a library for the local community as well.

Semillas de Vida – Founded by the Sierra Andina owner, his wife and a couple from Belgium, Semillas de Vida is a community-founded school near Huaraz, created to offer an alternative to the traditional education model with the core values of self-discovery, respect, environmental education and community. Their mission is: ¨to empower the children in our community with self-esteem, curiosity, a connection to those around them and the natural environment, while providing the educational tools they need to succeed in whatever they choose to do in life.¨ Volunteers can contact Semillas

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by Trevor Eagleson

Volunteering involves working in their organic garden or in their school and lasts around six hours per day but the best part – volunteering is FREE. Long term volunteers of a couple of months or more can also expect free accommodation and they even have a paid teaching position which is currently filled by the Belgian Olivier.

Also in the pipeline are courses for developing leadership and self-esteem skills, guiding skills and practical applications for the inhabitants of the local community. Short and long term volunteers are needed with a functional level of Spanish and a skill to offer Andean Alliance, long term volunteers receive free food and accommodation while short term volunteers can expect to pay the reasonable amount of S/. 20 per day to cover food and accommodation at their Inn. We also found volunteering options at socialwellbeing.org, turmanye.org and stichtingweeskind.nl but without results yet.

New things spark new ideas, creativity and possibilities with changesfornewhope.org

We are not going to tell you which organization you should or should not volunteer for. Everyone is free to do their own research and decide which organization is best suited for them. If you believe in the project and can afford the fees, why not choose one of the volunteer options asking for a large fee per month? On the other hand if you’d rather volunteer for one of the organizations asking for not much more than your time and efforts in return then we wish you all the luck and enjoyment in the world. The most important thing in your volunteer experience is that you enjoy it and the money that to do pay or donate is going to benefit those who need it most and not so the owners of the organization can buy a second home in Lima. If you

do come across an organization where you feel your fee is not being spent as it should be or if you simply have had a bad experience with a host family or volunteer placement please let us know about it at info@thehuaraztelegraph.com. Ending on a positive note, if you have experienced another volunteer organization that we have missed and want to give others the opportunity to work with them, please be in contact at the same address and we’ll make sure they get a positive mention in our next edition. Note: All information was correct at the time of writing. Prices, projects and conditions etc. are subject to change as is any information gained from the website of each organization. The Huaraz Telegraph accepts no responsibility as a result of these potential changes.

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14 KRISTOF SAYS FAREWELL!! (FOR GOOD?)

Huaraz is a small place, full of rumors and dogs. The Huaraz Telegraph was told that Kristof van den Bussche from Belgium has put his establishment for sale and that he might leave for good. Being the number one restaurant on Tripadvisor and the tallest inhabitant of Huaraz, he must have good reasons to leave. I had an interview with him and was hoping to find out if it was true what we´ve heard and if he´d possibly would tell us why.

Interview/Advertorial by Rex Broekman

that question better than I can. No seriously, we have a distinct menu with most dishes (over 50!) fresh and ´al instante´ prepared. It´s a place where I want my customers to feel at home. We have a bar and a launch where people can watch movies between six and eight in the evening, as there is no cinema in Huaraz. People can also bring their own movies. There is wireless internet as well plus on Friday´s we have live acoustic music. Absolutely recommendable! After cooking I try to have a little chat with my customers, we have an open kitchen because I´d like to share; besides there are no secrets in my kitchen. My most famous dish is ´stoofvlees´, which is beef slowly stewed in dark beer. Another homemade thing people like are my Maracuya (pa-

Chilli Heaven (Parque de Ginebra), el Ollon de Barro (in Monterrey 5 km from Huaraz) and El Cortíjo (also in Monterrey).¨ Could you share an anecdote with our readers? ¨I have had many exceptional moments with my customers. Sometimes, depending on the vibe, evenings turn out into a little party with live music. I have had days where customers were rude towards me or my staff when I had to react. Those customers were recommended by others and came back later with an apology, now they are one of my most frequent visitors. Maybe this is interesting. One of your sponsors (Dirk´s Dutch Waffles) comes up to me and says he´d need

So Kris, to start with an easy question, is it true that you are leaving? ¨Yep, the rumors are right. New challenges in life are calling me back to Europe for an unknown time or period. Let´s say I have obviously personal reasons.¨ OK, fair enough, can you explain your mysterious answer? ¨I am looking forward to, as I said, a new challenge that life has presented to me. Of course I am having mixed feelings leaving something unique and personal behind here in Huaraz.¨ Very well then, how long have you been here for? ¨I have been living in Huaraz for six years now and have been back to Belgium on three occasions to visit my family. My mother has visited me a couple of months ago and she was proud to see what her son has built up in such a short time.¨ Why did you come to Huaraz in the first place? ¨My ex-wife and I had been living in Belgium (my ex-wife is from Huaraz but we met and lived together in Belgium) and six years ago we decided to move to Peru, to start up a new life with new possibilities. So on one day we left everything we owned behind without having concrete plans, to grasp the opportunities that hopefully would occur. After being lazy and refreshed, the two of us started a small restaurant in my ex-wife’s house until we broke up. The funny thing is that my wife was ´homesick´, yearning for a life back in Belgium. So she went the opposite way. I stayed in her country, she went back to mine. After having lived in Belgium for 20 years she couldn’t adapt to the Peruvian lifestyle and culture anymore. As I said before, I stayed, life continued. Luckily, I soon got the opportunity to start Mi Chef Kristof, which I have been running for a bit over three years now.¨ What has your establishment to offer? (Laughing…) ¨You can probably answer

Kristof sharing a coffee with his best customer.

sion fruit) and Kion (ginger) sours. And last but not least, the Belgian chips or French fries of course.¨

some help making cookies. Yeah, why not I told him. Now we rent an apartment together and we are best friends.¨

Have you ever had any famous visitors? ¨A couple of times, I have had some Peruvian celebrities like musicians. I have to admit that I do not know or recognized them. My girls (waitresses) sometimes tell me who they are but I do not watch Peruvian TV a lot. Last year we had the crew of History Channel here for more than a couple of nights. They were making the program Deadliest Roads. I am becoming famous myself actually. Last week someone informed me that I was mentioned on Belgium´s national Radio 2. Apparently they knew that a Belgian was making ´stoofvlees´ in the Andes here (laughing).¨

Do you have any regrets? ¨I have had moments with mostly locals of a different culture where there was a serious misunderstanding between us. We Europeans think differently but sometimes I reacted a bit narrow-minded. Thinking afterwards, I shouldn’t have done that. I always try to treat everyone the same. Regrettably there are people who expect ´special treatment´. Every now and then I have difficulties with that. What I am trying to say is that everyone coming to Mi Chef gets a special treatment, depending on the fact whether I am busy or not.¨

What is your opinion about the quality of food in Huaraz? (Short silence)¨The questions are getting tougher. There is a big variety of quality products available in Huaraz. Depending on the quality of the restaurant, I would like to say that everyone does the best he can to ensure that the products are as fresh and well prepared.¨ Not naming yours, what is your favourite restaurant? ¨Give me one second to think. It´s difficult to say. It depends a bit of what I like to eat that day and I like to know up front if the food is prepared correctly. Well than, I´d say El Horno (Parque de Periodista),

You´re a chef, are there many other chefs in Huaraz and what is your opinion about them? ¨I have seriously no idea if there exist that many other chefs in Huaraz with the same experience and quality. The last years the quality of the other restaurants have improved a lot, which is a good thing for Huaraz. Some restaurant owners might be called chefs because of their passion for cooking but I still prefer saying ´local home kitchen´. Francois from El Horno is maybe the best example. The guy can´t cook but prepares excellent pizzas. When you´re living in a small place as Huaraz, people talk. So (jealous) people talk bad about me as well, be to be honest I don’t care because I know damn well what I am doing. I am

The Huaraz Telegraph June 2012 focusing on my own business and life.¨ Any big events planned before leaving? (Laughing) ¨I personally hate football but when EURO 2012 in Poland and Ukraine kicks off, we have the matches live on our big screen. The first match starts on June 8th, and because of the time difference, we will be open shortly after noon. This is interesting; I have planned to offer an aphrodisiac menu but I haven’t worked it out yet when exactly but I assume I can always change my ad in The Huaraz Telegraph? Speaking of which, I have a small gift for those reading the newspaper, readers should look for the Mi Chef´s ad and can expect something for free when consuming here.¨ So are you selling or not? ¨Normally yes, if I can sell and the price is good, it’s a done deal! I won´t be here anymore by August¨ Anything else you´d like to mention? ¨I will miss it, I will miss them (the customers). I am a bit speechless. Maybe in the future there will be another opportunity or chance, we´ll see. May I recommend some other restaurants to your readers? As mentioned before El Horno and Chilli Heaven but also Creperie Patrick, Café Andino and Terracota Fusion are more than decent. They´re not all sponsors of your newspaper but I hope you don’t mind.¨ Thanks Kristof, good luck and I hope you won’t mind I will check with your waitresses if everything you said is true? ¨Be my guest! ¨ So girls, will Kristof be missed? Haydee Ramirez Gomes: (smiling and after a short silence) ¨Kristof is a ´chinchoso´ (an annoying person). No, don’t put that in the newspaper (still smiling)! I believe Kris is a very appreciative person and apart from that he´s not only my boss but also a friend. He treats us girls good, by respecting us and giving us confidence and most of all he is honest. I am proud working here and would like to invite your readers to try our deserts. I hope Kris can make his new dreams true and yes, he will be missed.¨ Carmen Chimbe Alberto: ¨I like the fact that Kristof has offered me the chance to work here and study at the same time. I also like to mention that Kristof has made his restaurant into a place where you feel at home. I have learned a lot in the past year for example saying the things how they are. We Peruvians beat around the bush a lot. Although in the beginning I had difficulties because I had other ideas and this has cost time but it changed me as a person. I will also miss him! Why? I will lose my job (quietly laughing)! ¨ Mi Chef Kristof can be found in Parque de Periodista, on the second floor.


Local News

The Huaraz Telegraph June 2012

Festival del Andinismo 2012 written by Maria Luisa Abboud Boughosn

For those of you who love sports and nature, this is good news. From the 26th of June to the 1st of July the Callejón de Huaylas will be hosting the Festival del Andinismo Cordillera Blanca 2012 (White Range Andean Festival 2012); featuring ski, snowboarding, wall climbing, paragliding, mountain bike, cross country and more, along with mountain film screenings, traditional dances exhibition and open air live music concerts; all within the beautiful landscapes of the Callejón de Huaylas. The Festival del Andinismo Cordillera Blanca 2012 aims at positioning Peru as the ideal location for the practice of mountain and extreme sports, as the Semana del Andinismo tried to do back in the eighties. Even though the Andes of Peru have always been a must-see destination for climbers, many- including Peruvians- did not even know that winter sports such as ski could be practised in Peru. The creators of the Semana del

Snowboarding competition on the Pastoruri glacier back in 2011

Andinismo tried to change this by developing an event that would not only promote the practice of all sorts of mountain sports, but also give local people from Ancash the chance to do something outside the routine while having a good time. Throughout the years the Semana del Andinismo proved to be the most popular adventure sports event. Unfortunately, due to several reasons, the most important being the lack of enough support from local businesses and interference from the public sector in the organisation of the event, the organisers decided not

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to continue carrying it on. This year Benjamín Morales Irato, with a long history as organiser of sports and environmental events, through his organisation SAVE THE RAJUS (Save the Mountains) in coordination with ALDEA: Latin American Association of Adventure Sports (directed by one of the pioneers of the original Semana del Andinismo), brings us the Festival del Andinismo Cordillera Blanca 2012. Festival del Andinismo Cordillera Blanca starts off Tuesday June 26th, with an opening ceremony presenting several

15 activities such as a mountain film screening, a lecture given by the authorities of the Huascaran National Park, among others. On Wednesday June 27th we get ready for an “Iron Chasqui- Punta Cayán”: our very own version of an “Iron Man”, but in cross country modality and along a pre Incan path. Thursday June 28th is the day for the “Iron Chasqui- Vallunaraju”, where the competitors will climb to the Vallunaraju mountain (approximately 5700 m.a.s.l.) and then descend to the city of Huaraz (3100 m.a.s.l.) in triathlon. Friday June 29th is paragliding day in Caraz, along with a gastronomic festival; Saturday June 30th we will all go to the most iconic glacier in the area: Pastoruri, for a ski and snowboarding exhibition and competition. Last day, Sunday July 1st, is closure day with the eighth edition of the “Tour Festival”, depicting a competition of wall climbing, a downhill competition, a BMX exhibition and a cross country competition, together with food, beverages and a live rock concert. This June the Callejón the Huaylas will show itself to both locals and visitors in all its glory, in what hopefully will be the first of a series of events, public and private, that will finally make justice to the beauty and culture of our region. An extensive activity calender can be found at i-Peru near the Plaza de Armas.


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Gastronomy by Trevor Eagleson

The Huaraz Telegraph June 2012

Food of the Andes and Peru Drinks

You’ve possibly seen them in restaurant menus but what do they mean? That’s where we can hopefully help guide you through the wonders and delights of the local cuisine. Picante de Cuy (Guinea pig) - If you have owned a guinea pig as a pet you might want to avoid this barbequed guinea pig stew with aji panca, (a hot pepper sauce) and potatoes. For me it tastes like rabbit but others say chicken, make up your own mind if you can stomach the task. Ceviche – The national dish of Peru. Traditionally, pieces of raw fish marinated in lime juice, onions and aji limo (red pepper) but other varieties are also available. Lomo saltado – A stir fry with beef, red onions and tomatoes with soy sauce, vinegar and chilli that they accidently dropped some French fries in. Served with rice because there weren’t enough carbohydrates with the French fries. Pachamanca – Try if you get the chance. An Andean specialty for festivals or large family celebrations pachamanca is an assortment of meats, vegetables, beans and herbs slowly cooked underground on a bed of heated stones - delicious. Papa a la huancaina – Literally meaning Huancayo-style potatoes, papas a la huancaina is a popular starter in menu restaurants across Peru. Sliced boiled potatoes served with a very mild spicy cheese sauce, often served with lettuce, olives and a boiled egg. Papa rellena – Deep fried mashed potatoes stuffed with boiled egg, mince, onion, an olive and various spices. Tamales – Boiled corn with meat and cheese that is wrapped in a maize leaf (panca) and tied with a piece of string to hold it together. I said they were bad before? They´re getting worse. Cachitos – A horn shaped pastry filled with manjar blanco. A creamy sweet form of toffee butter. Olluquito con charqui - Olluco is a yellowish tuber domesticated by the Incas and is similar to the small Andean potato but with a distinct crunchy texture when cooked. Charqui is the technique employed in the Andean highlands to cure meat by salting, then dehydrating. The dish is a stew of finely diced ollucos with charqui pieces, served with white rice. Chocho (Tarwi) – Tarwi is a popular bean grown in the Andean regions of

Alcoholic drinks Chuchuwasi - It’s cheap, it gets you drunk and tastes good, what more do you want from an alcoholic drink? Made from a medicinal plant native to the Andean Sierra, chuchuwasi is a herby, syrupy, sweet liquor.

Ceviche with leche de tigre and sweet potato

Ecuador, Peru and Bolivia which can produce an extraordinarily bitter taste if not left to soak in water for a day or two. High in protein it makes for a nice change in carbohydrate rich Peru. Ensalada de Chocho – A salad that includes the chocho bean, onion, hot pepper, Lemons, cilantro (coriander), parsley and toasted corn. Aji de gallina – A yellow chicken stew made with onion, milk, yellow peppers, crackers, pecan nuts, egg and boiled yellow potatoes. Yunca de gallina – A chicken and wheat soup from the province of Yungay. Charqui – Andean version of beef jerky, covered with salt and left to dry in the sun. If you order this in a restaurant expect it to be served with corn, onions, tomatoes and hot pepper. Chicharron de chancho – Fried pork. Chifa – Derived from Mandarin meaning ‘to eat rice’ chifa is a fusion of Chinese and Peruvian food. If you’re getting tired of white rice, chifa is perfect. Quinoa – Grown in Ecuador, Bolivia, Colombia and Peru Quinoa are the seeds of a plant in the chenopodium family which is known as a pseudoceral. Cushuro alga – Only found in lakes around Huaraz at 3000m or more and sold at the market cushuro alga is a bacteria known as nostoc. Anyone willing to try this can you please write to food@ huaraztelegraph.com with a brief description of taste and texture, for me it just looks like fish eyes.

in this country. I’ll be the first to admit that Peru has some excellent dishes and produce but unfortunately cheese and dairy products in general are not one of them. If anyone reading this knows someone in Europe that is about to travel to Huaraz please tell them to bring a decent block of cheese with them, strong cheddar would be perfect. I will give them the money for it.

Desserts

Mazamorra morada - Made from the native Peruvain purple corn, Mazamorra morada is a jelly like desert made with cloves, sugar and occasionaly mixed fruits and lime is added. It’s often served with rice pudding (arroz con leche). Mazamorra de calabaza – Literally meaning porridge of pumpkin. Mazamorra de calabaza is a dessert made with calabash (bottle gourd), its seeds, sugar, flour and milk. Lúcuma – Famous for its ice cream, milk shake or lúcuma juice. Lúcuma is a dry and starchy fruit with an orange-yellow flesh. The fruit is grown at altitudes above 1000m and is native to Peru although it’s now grown in parts of Chile. Picarones – My favorite Peruvian dessert. A doughnut like dessert made with squash and sweet potato and served with a syrup called chancaca.

Chicha de Jora or ‘beer of the Incas’ is an alcoholic beverage that is produced by fermenting various verities of maize and herbs depending on the region, barley and cloves are also used in the fermenting process. Pisco – The national drink of Peru, made from grapes in the wine region of Peru, Pisco is often compared to brandy. It was developed during Spanish rule for a cheaper alternative to the native imported Spanish liquor known as Orujo. Note: pisco is also made in Chile but don’t tell anyone, it’s a delicate subject. Pisco Sour – a cocktail made from Pisco, lime juice, egg white and sugar. Non-alcoholic drinks Chicha morada – Chicha de Jora’s non-alcoholic cousin made from the Peruvian native purple corn. Inka cola – Peru’s favorite bubble gum flavored soft drink. Try it once, you’ll hate it, try it again and you’ll still hate it. Leche de tigre – A soup-like drink made with the ingredients of ceviche, if the ceviche doesn’t make you reach for the Imodium this one might. If you feel we’ve missed anything on this page, or if you’ve eaten some excellent street food that you would like to share with our readers or if you’d like to get in contact about hooking me up with a decent block of cheese please contact us at info@thehuaraztelegraph.com

Peruvian Cheese We have a Belgian producing good quality coffee, a Dutchman making waffles and the American Ted, producing an excellent beer. Who is going to step in to save the Peruvian cheese market? Rubber-like, bland and tasteless are just a few of the words to describe the cheese

Fried guinea pig served with its head and skin, buen provecho!


Tourist Info/Local news

The Huaraz Telegraph June 2012

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by Trevor Eagleson

What else you should know for a pleasant stay in Huaraz. Renting bicycles Check all equipment before agreeing to hire a bicycle from anyone, there are a lot of poor bikes for hire in Huaraz and there has been accidents involving tourists in recent years. You should always ask for a receipt when hiring a bike and you should expect to pay anywhere between S/.20100 per day. The better quality bikes will be more expensive but it’s cheaper than crashing with a cheap, poor quality bicycle and ending up spending a night in hospital. Beware of drivers The driving in Peru is almost as bad as their tamales. Look both ways on a one way street, in any other country green

means walk, in Huaraz it means look both ways and then walk but keep looking. If you want to see the full extent of poor Peruvian driving I suggest talking the panoramic front seat (otherwise known as ‘the death seat’) on your next bus journey. It’s little wonder that Peru has so many deaths on the road each year. Changing money You won’t get the best rates available in Huaraz and you will need to bring your passport. The editor recommends no bank in particular, but during lunch time, then the cues aren´t as long as in the mornings. For Sterling I’d suggest holding onto them until you return to the UK because the rates here are terrible but if you simply have to change Sterling wait until you’re in Lima and do it there. i-Peru tourist information and assistance Located at Pasaje Atusparia, the small

alley in front of the Plaza de Armas i-Peru offers excellent, honest and free tourist information. They won’t be trying to trick you into buying a tour or any other service like some others do. If you have some genuine questions about what to do and how to do it in the area this is the place to go. City map also available. Touts hanging around the bus stations Reading this I presume you’ve already chosen your hostel or hotel, congratulations to those of you who made a reservation beforehand and ignored those waiting at the bus station to try to convince you to go to another hostel. They pick up a commission to send you to another hostel and a hostel that needs to send someone to the busstation at 6am probably isn’t going to be the greatest hostel in town. For those of you reading this that made a reservation but instead followed the

guy at the bus station to his commission gained hostel – shame on you. Trout farm A 20 minutes walk uphill from the centre along Raymondi Ave, I have to admit I’ve never actually visited the trout farm but I guess you should expect an artificial lake of some kind loaded with more fish than it should hold. You probably don’t want to read my opinion on farming fish but I encourage you to do your own research on the subject and the effects on the environment in general caused by farming fish. The archaeological museum of Ancash Containing a collection of stone sculptures, a garden of monoliths from the Recuay and Wari cultures and a few mummies the museum is located on the main square one block up from i-Peru.

“La Muy Generosa Ciudad de Huaraz” MUNICIPALIDAD PROVINCIAL DE HUARAZ “Año de la Integración Nacional y el Reconocimiento de Nuestra Diversidad” May 23rd 2012 An open letter to the concerned inhabitants and visitors of Huaraz. The workings momentarily in process on the streets 28 de Julio, Jr. Santa Rosa and Psje Santa Cecilia were inspected by Mayor Vladimir Meza Villarreal, who oversaw and supervised the work being carried out by contractors at the end of May. He demanded that they comply with the construction as recorded in the technical plans of the streets for the Government of Huaraz. The Mayor went early to check out the work in process and concluded that 30% of the job is finished. Furthermore he got the opportunity to talk to some of the people living around the area under construction, to clear up some doubts. Later on, the supervisor of the workings could inform the Mayor that all work should be done within the planned six months of the project. Later that day the Mayor visited Santa Rosa and Santa Cecilia in the neighborhood of Soledad where he was accompanied by the city manager Mr. Vicente Rodriguez. Mr Villarreal had good conversations with the habitants of Soledad and concluded that the progress there was about 70 percent complete. Mayor Vladimir Meza added his comment on the visit and the streets in general: ¨This visit has been very healthy because, for me, it was an excellent opportunity to get in contact with some concerned habitants of Huaraz and to receive feedback about the condition of the streets. Additionally it gives me the chance to ensure that the works are done properly and within schedule, we need the contractors to archive the established goals. The subsequent weeks, work will start in the neighborhood of Villón Bajo where water pipes and sewer channels will be renewed. Finally the sidewalks will also be improved and reconstructed.” Thanks for your attention and we apologize for any inconvenience caused. Sincerely, The Government of Huaraz

Improvements all around

last month and published in the previous edition. This let to a plethora of criticisms from the readers.

Have a look at the before picture and after picture, the readers will not only conclude that there is more than a slight improvement visible but also that the weather has dramatically improved in one months time. The top picture was taken

It gives The Huaraz Telegraph great pleasure to show our readers that the work in progress is fully underway and you can expect the streets to be amended as soon as possible. As the Mayor of Huaraz Vladimir Meza Villarreal confirms in his letter published to the left.


Destination Lima

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by Timmy O´Toole

Few travellers spend the time to fully

check out this fascinating and at times hectic city but those who do take the time to discover the wonders of Lima, its fantastic food, the many districts and its people are rarely disappointed. With a population of nearly 9 million Lima ranks as South America’s forth largest city but step into the central park near the National Stadium and you’d never guess. Below we have listed some of the attractions Lima possesses to help you build your itinerary to have a long and enjoyable stay in Peru’s crazy capital city.

Barranco – My favourite district in Lima, other than the recently opened Starbucks just off the main plaza you won’t find all the American brand names here that are so prolific in neighbouring Miraflores, which is why I like it so much. A quite tranquil district by day compared to the rest of Lima which explodes at night during the weekend, with most bars and discos concentrated on one street just off the main Plaza, Barranco makes for the perfect weekend pub crawl.

scription about what Lima has to offer on the theater front visit limaeasy.com, the site is currently under reconstruction but they still have a lot of very good information about Lima in general.

The Zoo – Located near Plaza San Miguel in west Lima (take a combi to La Marina) the Parque de las Leyendas zoo

Parque de la Reserva (Parque de las Aguas) – Home to the spectacular array of water fountains which look even more

For all up to date information on theatre listings and live music performances around Lima you can also check out El Comercio on Mondays. Parks

Historic Center of Lima – No visit to Lima would be complete without visiting the 1988 UNESCO listed world heritage site of the historic centre of Lima which includes the colonial architecture monuments of The Cathedral, the Monastery of San Francisco, the Plaza Major and the Palace of Torre Tagle. If you’re into churches this is one place you simply must visit, the historic center Lima boosts some of the most impressive churches in South America, with Iglesia de Santo Domingo, Iglesia de San Pedro and Iglesia de San Afustin adding to the already impressive array of architecture. Miraflores – Walking around Miraflores and it feels like you could be walking around a small city in America or Europe, McDonalds, Burger King, Pizza Hut, Starbucks, Miraflores has most of the brand names you will be familiar with. Added to this is an array of large supermarkets, cinemas, bars, excellent restaurants, expensive clothes stores and the famous Larcomar Mall, overlooking the ocean offering tenpin bowling. It’s easy to see why most tourists flock to this metropolitan district with almost all home comforts available.

The Huaraz Telegraph June 2012 Parque de la Exposicion – One of the largest parks in Lima spanning from The National Stadium near Movil Tours terminal on Paseo de la Republica through Wilson, Colon and 28th de Juilo. Home of the Museum of Art, Moorish pavilion and a small pond where possibly the only ducks in Lima can be found outside of the Chinese restaurants in Chinatown, the park is an excellent getaway from the hustle and bustle of the city. It can get quite busy at weekends but during the week in the mornings or early afternoon are the perfect times to visit if you’re in seek of some peace and quiet. Around Lima Pachacamac – Located around 35km southeast of Lima, Pachacamac is a large archaeological complex containing various palaces and at least 17 pyramids dated back as early as 200AD. Unfortunately some of the ruins have been damaged over the years, most notably by the heavy El Nino rains but it’s still worth a day visit from Lima.

boosts a nice variety of birds and animals from the three major geographical regions of Peru including the tucan, sloths, gallito de la roca (cock of the rock), spectacled bear, condor and armadillos. Theatre – As we know our readers are of a certain class your first question when you enter a new city is always going to be ‘where can I find a decent theatre?’, don’t worry we’re here to help you. La Tarumba Teatro in Miraflores combines theatre, circus and music to form an interesting fusion of art forms. For an in-depth de-

impressive as night falls, when florescent lights engulf the nights sky. Currently open from 4pm-11pm, Wednesday – Sunday, the park is located between Paseo de la Republica and Arequipa Avenue and covers an area of 8 hectors and charges an entrance fee of S/. 4. ‘The Magic Water Tour’, as it is known is currently the world record holder for the largest fountain complex in the world, consisting of 13 distinct fountains and at a cost of U$D13 million to create in 2007 we’ll forgive them for their minimal entrance fee.

The Tumi Hotel offers not only three star class nights, it also has a bar, cafe and a restaurant where all visitors of Huaraz are welcome. New: El Tumi Spa: massage, jacuzzi, facial and body treatments. Everything you need after a exhausting hike or climb.

Puruchuco – A massive Inca cemetery located about 15km from the Lima city center where around 2000 well preserved mummy bundles were unearthed in 2002. Chaclacayo – A perfect day trip from Lima, at 660m above sea level while most of the of the city is covered in a layer of costal fog the small village of Chaclacayo is often basked in pleasant sunshine. Activities include horseback riding with Parque Central one of the main attractions, located 27km from the centre of Lima on the valley of the Rimac River it’s easily accessible from the city by bus.


The Huaraz Telegraph June 2012 If Lima isn’t your next destination after Huaraz, Trujillo and Huanchaco probably will be and for good reason, the perfect mix of large city, small beach town and archaeological site makes for the perfect stopover. Trujillo – With a population of around 900,000 people Trujillo ranks as Peru’s second most populous city, home to the Chimu city of Chan Chan and the colonial streets of old Trujillo. The Plaza de Armas possesses the huge freedom monument which was erected in 1929 to celebrate Trujillo’s independence in 1820 and what is in my opinion the nicest Cathedral in Peru, although opening times are erratic.

Museums – A couple of blocks from the Plaza de Armas you will find the interesting Museo del Juguete (Toy Museum) with a vast array of toys dated from the 19th and 20th centuries. The Museo Huacas de Moche (Museum of Moche Temples) is located at the Temple of the Moon and shows the recent archaeological discoveries of the Moche ceremonial center. Created by the painter Gerardo Chavez the Museo de Arte Moderno (Museum of Modern Art) displays work of established foreign and national artists and is located on Semirustica El Bosque. Ripley – Between the old colonial streets of Trujillo, the ancient archaeological site

Trujillo/Huanchaco by Al. B. Rovers

of Chan Chan and the laid back beaches of Huanchaco, Trujillo enters the new world with this gigantic mall possessing just about everything you may desire. A huge supermarket with a wine section almost as big as the ‘supermarkets’ in Huaraz (which is best avoided at weekends unless you like waiting in a queue for an hour), shoe stores, clothes, electrical equipment… the list goes on and on until you finally give into temptation and visit one of the many junk food options in the large food court. Huanchaco – Just 12km from Trujillo, (S/. 13 by taxi or S/. 1.50 by comi) for me a must visit destination on the Peruvian ‘gringo trail’, Huanchaco is simply beautiful. Sit back and relax with a cold beer in one of the many restaurants overlooking the seafront as you indulge yourself with some excellent seafood, the ceviche being an extra special speciality here. Excellent year round waves makes this little beach resort a surfer’s paradise and there are many places where you can rent a board or even take a few lessons if required. Watch out for the ‘caballitos de totora’ (little horses) if surfing in the morning though, these little narrow reed boats have been used by fishermen around the Huanchaco area for the past 2000 years. Get up early enough and see this historic fishing technique in action, you can even take one out for a spin if you ask nicely and pay the fisherman a small fee. Chan Chan – Declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1986 Chan Chan is an ancient archaeological city constructed by the kingdom of the Chimú sometime in the late first century AD or early second century AD which survived until the conquest of the Incas in 1470

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AD. Chan Chan covers an area of 20km² which makes it the largest adobe city in the world. Unfortunately El Nino storm and floods have severely damaged the mud walls of the city, looters and earthquakes have also had their adverse affects on the ancient city but it’s still makes for an interesting visit.

Otuzco – Just two hours from Trujillo with an elevation of 2630m this makes for a spectacular day trip, other than the cobblestone streets the town itself isn’t that special but what makes this journey worth while are the views as you ascend from sea level up to the middle of the Andeans in such a short space of time.

The Temple of the Sun and Moon – Located in the Moche countryside on the south bank of the Rio Moche about 10km from Trujillo the Temple of the Sun and Moon predates the Chan Chan. The Temple of the Sun is the single largest pre-Columbian structure in Peru, although some of it has been wasted away by those pesky El Nino rains again.

Puerto Chicama – This place doesn’t have the facilities of Huanchaco, nor the same vibe but what it lacks in character it makes up for in giant waves. Diehard Surfers grab your broads because the waves here can reach an impressive 2m high and travel for an astonishing 2km when conditions are right, usually between April and June but don’t blame

As we all know though, size isn’t everything (the founders of the newspaper enthusiastically agree) as the Temple of the Moon is much more intriguing.

us if you go there this month to find tranquil swimming pool like conditions. Bring a wetsuit, the water will be cold.


Around Huaraz

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by Trevor Eagleson

Places of interest around Huaraz.

Caraz (2250m) Near the ending point of the Santa Cruz trek when it’s finally restored, Caraz lays only 1km from the pre Inca ruins of Tumshukaiko. 32km from the town is Paron Lake, the largest lake in the Cordillera Blanca which is surrounded by 15 snowy peaks. At 22km Canyon del Pato a rock formation formed by the movement of the Cordilleras Blanca and Negra is also within reach of Caraz.

We would like to guide you through some of the bigger villages around Huaraz. Most of them are easily accessible just by catching a combi. Carhuaz (2645m) Situated 35km north of Huaraz, Carhuaz is home to a vibrant Sunday market were rural inhabitants descend from the surrounding villages to sell various handicrafts, fruits and typical products from the region such as manjar blanco. They also have a festival at the end of September each year held in honor of the Patron Virgin of the Mercedes “Meche Mama”, activities include ´visperas´, bands and bullfights. The town is also famous for its local ice-cream.

Chiquian (3350m) Starting point of the Cordillera Huayhuash circuit, Chiquian is famous for its Santa Rosa de Lima festival held every August. The town hosts nice views of the snow covered Cara Cara and Huara Pasca of the Cordillera Blanca to the north and the black Nudo de Chonta to the west.

Yungay (2500m)

Recuay (3422m)

Completely destroyed by the earthquake of 1970 that rocked much of central Peru killing 25,000 people in the town of Yungay alone, it is said that only 92 people survived in the town. The Peruvian government has since declared the location of the old town a national cemetery and forbidden excavation. With nice views of the Huascaran, Yungay while lacking in tourist services has the best access to the Llanganuco Lakes.

A quiet colonial style town that possesses the mineral waters and thermal springs of Conococha, Ucuschaca, Pachacoto, Pumapampa, Burgos and Utuco. Located 10km south of Recuay, the small town of Catac is the ideal starting point for trips to see the Puya Raimondii plant, the largest flower in the world which grows at 4200m and can be found at the Huashta Punta pass on the Cordillera Negra.

Other places of interest

Huascaran National Park

Chavin archaeological site (Chavin de Huantar) – A 4 ½ hour drive from Huaraz with an entrance fee of S/. 11, read pages 12 & 13 for a detailed description about the history of Chavin.

Contact info, lakes and treks

Rataquenua lookout – If you look to the east you will see a large cross over looking Hauarz that is the Rataquenua lookout. To get there walk towards the cemetery and follow the road up hill. Be careful as people have been robbed here in the past, even taxis have caused problems. We suggest going to El Pinar instead, a mining village that has excellent views of Huaraz, to get there walk towards the trout farm and follow the signs to El Pinar. Wilcahuain– Located 8km north off Huaraz, Wilcahuain can be reached by bike, on foot, by car or by combi for S/. 1. If you do decide to go by bike, look out for the dogs on the way down. Monterrey – Thermal swimming pool located 6km from Huaraz, owned by a hotel with an entrance free of S/. 3:50. Combis take you to Monterrey for S/. 1 or you can use a taxi for around S/. 5. Chancos – A lot better than Monterrey, the Chancos hot springs and natural saunas are located 27km from Huaraz and also possesses a climbing wall.

The Huaraz Telegraph June 2012

Given protection status in 1975 by the Peruvian government and declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1985, the Huascaran National Park boosts some of the worlds most beautiful treks and lakes. Located in the Cordillera Blanca it is home to various flora, fauna, birds and animals including the Puya Raimondii, Cougar, the Jaguar, the South American Tapir, many species of humming birds including the Peruvian Piedtail and the Guanaco. Spanning over 340,000 hectors the Huascaran national park is considered to be the highest tropical mountain range in the world with the Huascaran peak reaching the dizzy height of 6768m. Trekking can be enjoyed within the national park alone or with the help of an agency, whichever you decide is best suited for your needs and desires. When trekking without the help of an agency you have the sole responsibility to ensure the national park is left in the same condition when you leave as when you arrived, preserving this vast region for future generations of plant, animal, bird and human to enjoy is of utmost importance. If you compete a trek or activity with an agency and you notice they are not behaving responsibly in any way towards the environment please report them to the national park, with your help we can ensure the Huascaran national park flourishes for many years to come. One day excursions within the Huascaran National Park requires an entrance fee of S/. 5, with a fee of S/. 65 for an overnight stay between one night to when you decide to leave. To contact the national park you can call them at 422086, or visit their office on 555 Jr. Federico Sal y Rosas, Belén in Huaraz.

Llanganuco Lakes At 3800m the lakes of Chinancocha and Orconcocha are situated within the Huascaran National Park and are fed by the melting snow of the mountains Huascaran, Huandoy, Pisco, Yanapaccha, and Chopicalqui. Located just 25km from Yungay the Llanganuco Lakes can be reached with a 45 minute car journey.

Laguna 69 Starting at Cebollapampa and widely considered to be the most beautiful lake in the area and best one day trek in the Huascaran national park. The laguna 69 trek is often used to get better accustomed to the altitude before setting out for longer, higher excursions.

Laguna Churup Public or private transportation takes you to the small town of Pitec or Llupa to start the trek. Quite a difficult trek at times, to get to what is considered to be one of the least attractive popular lakes in the area, saying that it will not be as busy as some of the other lakes so can make for a nice, quieter alternative trek.

Pastoruri Glacier Are we there yet? Are we there yet? The receding ice caps, an article for another edition. I’m sure this was once an even more spectacular sight than it is now as you’ll be walking for hundreds of metres of where the glacier once stood, to get to what is left. A bumpy ride for 4 ½ hours brings you to the starting point of the hike to the glacier, which should take approximately one hour. Only possible with tour agency.


The Huaraz Telegraph June 2012

Trekking

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by Trevor Eagleson

Popular hikes Santa Cruz – As you might have already read the Santa Cruz trek was recently destroyed by a large landslide. Luckily the people of Cashapampa have been working hard to create a new to route. Starting at Cashapampa or Vaqueria the trek can be completed in 3 or 4 days with stunning views of Taulliraju from Punta Union when the weather is clear. World famous, this stunning trek is the second most popular trek after the Inca Trail in Cusco. Alpamayo Circuit – This 7-8 day trek is considered to be one of the most spectacular treks in the region and with excellent views of the Nevado Alpamayo it’s easy to see why. The trek passes through Hualcayan and Wishcash with excellent views of Santa Cruz at Laguna Cullicocha (4650m) before passing through Paso Cullicocha (4850m) and Paso Osoruri (4750m).

snowcovered peaks such as Umashraju, Huantsan and Rurec.

The Cordillera Huayhuash

Day 5 continues across the Quebrada Carnicero to Punta Carnicero past a string of small lakes. After walking past Laguna Atocshaico, the campsite of day 5 Laguna Carnicero will appear. The Trek continues past Laguna Mitucocha to the top of Portachuelo de Huayhuash (4759m) and northwest to camp below Punta Cuyoc. Day 7 sees you reach Quebrada Guanacpatay via the highest point of the trek; on this day you will see nice views of Puscanturpo (5440m) and Pumarinri (5465m). Day 8 can consist of various routes ranging from 7-11 hours to reach Punta Tapuish. The traditional circuit heads past Quebrada Guanacpatay to view the glacier clad pyramid of Jullutahuarco (5450m). The trail continues parallel to a huge waterfall walking down to the Rio Huayllapa. Day 9, the penultimate day begins with

Leaving Osoruri you get the chance to walk around the scenic glacial lake of Jancarurish situated beneath the Alpamayo with nice views of Jancarurish 5780m, Tayapampa 5860m and Quitaraju 6254m.

The community owned Cordillera Huayhuash circuit boosts the World’s second highest tropical mountain in Yerupajá at 6634m. Avoid the mini-Huayhuash, as it is a waste of money and you don’t actually enter the Huayhuash, just the outskirts.

From Jancarurish the trek continues to the Safuna Lagoons which includes a climb to the pass known as ‘Cara Cara’ at 4820m. From Safuna you continue to the Paso Pucajirca (4600m) pass and then down the valley to camp at Jancapampa (3600m) where you can see a large glacier.

Day 1 begins in the small town of Llamac and ends at Laguna Yahuacocha after passing by the 4m long Cholla Cacti. Day two sets up past the Solteracocha Lake and includes the Punta Rondoy pass (4750m) with views of Ninashanca (5607m).

Ulta Trek – Lasting only two days and reaching the altitude of 4850m at the Punta Yanayacu pass the Ulta trek is conseridered to be an intermediate level trek.

Day 3 starts at Matacanha which includes many beautiful lakes and possible frequent condor sightings. The trail passes a metal cross erected in 2000 in honor of a Polish explorer who died there and ends at Laguna Mitacocha.

Olleros Chavin – A three day trek with spectaculair views which ends at Chavin de Huantar. Day one starts at the village of Canrey Chico walking to the base camp of Sacracancha at 4080m. Day two ascends to the Yanashalla pass where you can see nice views of various

Day 4 reaches, what is considered to be the most scenic lake on the trek by many, Laguna Carhuacocha. With the Carhuac pass (4650m) and excellent views of Siula Grande (6340m) if day 4 doesn’t raise the hairs on the back of your neck it’s time to head back to Huaraz.

a short hike to reach the Punta Tapuish pass for panoramic views of the southern part of the Cordillera Blanca. The trail then reaches Laguna Susucocha and continues to the excellent Punta Yaucha pass. The campsite at Laguna Yahuacocha is reach via the Quebrada Huacrish valley where more condor sightings are possible and a scenic route beside a stunning waterfall is taken. The trek is completed on day 10 with a short trek from Laguna Yahuacocha back to the starting point of Llamac.

***Note that different agencies or tour operators can offer different itineraries for each trek or tour mentioned in The Huaraz Telegraph.

The best Peruvian, creole and international food. In the afternoon Rinconcito offers ´menu´, from 7 soles including an appetizer, a main course and a drink. A true bargain for budget travellers. To be found on: Jr. Julian de Morales 757 or call 043-422-875 / 944-455-956 for more info. Open every day from 07:00AM till 11:00PM and it offers breakfast, lunch and dinner. Free WIFI available.


Gigglepedia

22

by Trevor Eagleson

A light hearted page full of giggles! People have asked me, ‘how can you make fun of Peru’s tamales, Inca Kola and mention that our national drink Pisco is also made in Chile? How would you like it if I made fun of the Irish? To which I reply, I wouldn’t mind at all. With many thanks to our friends at giddlepedia.com I would like to prove this by devoting part of this page to taking the piss out of my fellow countrymen. P.S. I’m pretty sure tamales are from Mexico ;)

hot action! So I sent her my ironing. That’ll keep the lazy woman busy. I got invited to a party and was told to dress to kill. Apparently a turban, beard and a backpack wasn’t what they had in mind. After a night of drink, drugs and wild sex Bill woke up to find himself next to a really ugly woman. That’s when he realized he had made it home safely. Paddy says to Mick, “Christmas is on Friday this year”.

affecting about one in 10 people with Tourette’s syndrome, is called “coprolalia”. * The word “time” is the most common noun in the English language.

Definition of an Irish husband: He hasn’t kissed his wife for twenty years, but he will kill any man who does. Murphy told Quinn that his wife was driving him to drink. Quinn thinks he’s very lucky because his own wife makes him walk. Q. What do you call an Irishman who knows how to control a wife? A. A bachelor. Finnegan: My wife has a terrible habit of staying up ‘til two o’clock in the morning. I can’t break her of it. Keenan: What on earth is she doin’ at that time? Finnegan: Waitin’ for me to come home. “O’Ryan,” asked the druggist, “did that mudpack I gave you improve your wife”s appearance?” “It did surely,” replied O’Ryan, “but it keeps fallin’ off!” Got an e-mail today from a bored local housewife, 43 who was looking for some

Mick said, “Let’s hope it’s not the 13th then.” Since the snow came all the wife has done is look through the window. If it gets any worse, I’ll have to let her in. Word play and interesting facts: * The first word spoken on the moon was “okay.” * Seoul, the South Korean capital, just means “the capital” in the Korean language * The name of all the continents end with the same letter that they start with * Panspermia is the idea that life on Earth originated on another planet. * An infestation of head lice is called pediculosis. * The medical name for the part of the brain associated with teenage sulking is “superior temporal sulcus”. * Involuntary bad language, a symptom

* The most common name in the world is Mohammed

* The clitoris derives its name from the ancient Greek word kleitoris, meaning “little hill”. * Hexakosioihexekontahexaphobiacs is the term for people who fear the number 666.

* The first message tapped by Samuel Morse over his invention the telegraph was: “What hath God wrought?”

* The word “lethologica” describes the state of not being able to remember the word you want

* The first words spoken by over Alexander Bell over the telephone were: “Watson, please come here. I want you.”

* In English, “four” is the only digit that has the same number of letters as its value

* The first words spoken by Thomas Edison over the phonograph were: “Mary had a little lamb.”

* Q is the only letter in the alphabet that does not appear in the name of any of the United States

* The three words in the English language with the letters “uu” are: vacuum, residuum and continuum.

* TYPEWRITER, is the longest word that can be made using the letters only one row of the keyboard

* A baby in Florida was named: Truewilllaughinglifebuckyboomermanifestdestiny. His middle name is George James

* The word “Checkmate” in chess comes from the Persian phrase “Shah Mat,” which means, “the King is dead”

* ‘Dreamt’ is the only English word that ends in the letters ‘mt’.

* The only 15-letter word that can be spelled without repeating a letter is uncopyrightable.

Take the Mick out of the Irish

with only the left hand

* The longest non-medical word in the English language is FLOCCINAUCINIHILIPILIFICATION, which means “the act of estimating as worthless”.

* The sentence “the quick brown fox jumps over the lazy dog” uses every letter in the English language

Humor and funny images at Gigglepedia.com

The Huaraz Telegraph June 2012

* Canada is an Indian word meaning “Big Village” * Stewardesses is the longest word typed

* In Chinese, the words crisis and opportunity are the same. * The infinity character on the keyboard is called a “lemniscate”. * There are no words in the English language that rhyme with silver and orange. * ‘Zorro’ means ‘fox’ in Spanish. Thanks to gigglepedia.com


Globetrotting

The Huaraz Telegraph June 2012

ADVENTURERS REACH HUARAZ An English couple left the UK in June 2010 with the dream of circumnavigating the globe in their white 17 year old Land Rover. Below is their story of how and why they started their ambitious expedition and what they did during their ten day stay in Huaraz. What are your goals and expectations of your adventure? “Our expedition has three goals. Our personal goal is to complete a true circumnavigation overland. This means passing through two points opposite each other on the planet. With only around 4% of land being opposite land there are not many options for doing this, however north eastern Mongolia, which we passed through around August 2010 (a long time ago now), is opposite a point in southern Chile, which is our next main destination. The other main requirements for a true circumnavigation is to cross every line of longitude at least once and the equator at least twice, and to cover a distance equal to the Great Circle (or equator), traveling primarily in one direction (for us this is East to West).” “Our second goal is to provide a ‘virtual field trip’ for UK primary age (mainly 7-11) school children through our sister website Landy’s Adventures. We have chosen to support three charities through raising awareness of the issues via our websites and the schools program (schools can choose whether or not to include these charities as part of their own fundraising programs).We chose three charities based on the needs of the countries we would be visiting as we understood the position before we left the UK.” “The Christina Noble Children’s Foundation works with homeless children and vulnerable families in Ulaanbaatar, Mongolia, where, since the end of Soviet rule in Mongolia, the Soviet state run children’s homes closed, leaving many homeless children living in the heating ducts that run under the pavements of the capital city. With winter temperatures dropping to minus 50 centigrade, these heating ducts keep the roads from completing freezing and inadvertently provide ‘homes’ for the children. The charity’s work has been very successful over the years and the number of homeless children on the streets has diminished, allowing them to focus on preventative work such as keeping families together.” “Rainforest Concern for their obvious work with local communities and as part of the world’s growing environmental concerns.”

“Last but not least: Water Aid for their work in Africa, especially their focus on developing sanitation which is an often forgotten but significant part of developing and maintaining potable water sup-

plies.” Can you tell us a little bit about your expedition? “The expedition began as a realization that we were getting older (we are both in our early 50’s) but we both come from social care and personal development backgrounds and it was probably that which had us wanting to travel with a purpose.” “Our expedition left the UK in June 2010, so June will of course coincide with our second anniversary on the road. We headed east via Europe, Kazakhstan, Mongolia, Siberia, shipped to the United States and drove down the western states into Mexico, visiting every country in Central America, before shipping around the Darian Gap into Colombia, Ecuador and Peru.” “Our vehicle is around 17 years old and obviously prone to needing repairs, especially considering our journey. We have had a few significant breakdowns, the most recent being in Ecuador where our transfer box effectively disintegrated just as we drove through a small Andean village in the Sigchos district. We believe the initial damage to the transfer box happened when we were trying to get ourselves unstuck while in the Siberian forest 12 months previously.” “In Ecuador it took seven weeks to get the parts and rebuild the transfer box, during which time we were ‘adopted’ and looked after by the village. We were intro-

duced to the delights of ´cuy´ (actually, I did rather like it) and rural life, including attending our first ever cock fights (not for the faint hearted), and taking part in the village New Year celebrations.” Did you enjoy your time in Huaraz, what did you do here? “We were in or around Huaraz for about a week and a half. We really liked the atmosphere at our hostel and decided to hang around Huaraz for the extra time rather than dawdle on the route to Lima. The result was that we ended up in Huaraz for most of Semana Santa, watching quite a bit of the Good Friday road decorations and parades - unlike many tourists who seem to escape for that period.”

“We loved the fresh food market in Huaraz - everything smelt fresh and clean - fresh meat, fresh vegetables - a real change after having made quite a few visits to the market down in Casma on the coast.” “I had my DSLR camera repaired while in Huaraz - something that would never happen in the UK: I saw the whole camera taken apart and something to do with the flash unit being soldered for repair (went to the shop that advertised in issue one of the paper - think the name was Palomo - it’s upstairs on the first floor on the main street, next to a photographer’s studio, with a couple of large fish tanks in the shop).” What plan do you have after leaving Huaraz? “Our plan after leaving Huaraz was to

23 travel to Lima via the 4,900 meter pass over the Cordilleras Blanca - we did this over 2/3 days, stopping overnight at Chacas and Huari before heading via Conococha to Lachay National Reserve and on into Lima where we had a great day out dune driving with the Land Rover club, who also helped us source some needed parts for our Land Rover. Since then we’ve headed out via Paracas National Reserve, Nasca Lines, Cabanaconde and the canyons, to Puno for a few days. We are due to leave Peru and enter Bolivia, so we will probably be in Bolivia for the whole of May and into Chile by June so depending on when you publish exactly we might be in the Atacama Desert.” What would you say as been the greatest challenge so far? “One of our greatest challenges right now is financial. The breakdowns ate seriously into our budget early on, as did US bureaucracy, but that’s another story and one, we try not to dwell on. We had a small amount of sponsorship before we left the UK, but this probably accounts for no more than 5% of our overall costs (including pre departures costs) and we have otherwise been self funded since selling almost everything we had back in the UK. It’s one of the reasons we have been traveling more slowly than during the earlier stages of our journey.” “Our experience is that sponsorship is not easy to obtain and maintaining the commitment to provide relevant returns for the sponsor takes further resources. Whilst obviously still open to offers we are not actively seeking sponsorship. We are, however, seeking ways of earning either money or just our keep whenever we can. During our time in the US this included making appearances at Land Rover Dealership event days in return for covering our costs and something towards our overall expedition expenses.” We would like to thank Helen and Paul for sharing their intriguing story with us and wish them good luck for the rest of their journey which sees them travel through S. America before catching a flight to New Zealand and into Australia.

Pictures from www.goingoverland.com, the 17 year old Land Rover in action!


Contact the Way Inn Lodge: (+51) 943 466 219 thewayinnlodge@gmail.com http://thewayinn.com

HAPPY MOMENTS IN HUARAZ THE PAST MONTHS

The Huaraz Telegraph is sometimes considered being too critical. Why show broken-up streets or reporting about the Santa Cruz Trek being disrupted. Our answer: ¨Sorry guys, we´re a newspaper! Not all news is good news.¨ This doesn’t mean though that we´re completely blind for the happy moments. Therefore, in this edition we would like to share some happy moments that occurred during the past months. The Huaraz Telegraph retrospectively says Happy Birthday to Lucho Buendia (May 15th), Dirk Wolkers (May 18th), Kristof van den Bussche (April 5th), Louis-Marie Martin (April 16th) and Ted Alexander (April 20th). We also would like to congratulate Paul Schulze and Ethel Consuelo with their marriage and hopefully many years of happiness!

Good times @ the Lazy Dog Inn; Ted Alexander and Diana Morris licking their fingers while Wayne Lamphier cuts the cake.

Chess puzzle

White to move and mate in 4. Solution on this page.

Ethel and Paul at their wedding. We wonder when we hear about the first Paulcitos.

We are looking for people with some spare time who would like to contribute by writing a story or article for The Huaraz Telegraph. All sendings will be considered, no mather how obscure or out of the box. writers@huaraztelegraph.com

Writers Wanted!

The Brand Alphabet by Jeff Trevaskis

Chess solution: Bxc5+ Kd7 Ra7+

Pretend that an A is worth one cent, B is worth two cents, C is worth three cents, and so on. 1. How much is the whole alphabet worth? 2. What is the value of DECEMBER? 3. Find a European country and an animal worth exactly one dollar. 4. Find out what letters belong to which brand. Xbox, Yahoo, Zurich. The whole alphabet equals $3.51 december equals $.55 Turkey equals $1.00 Adobe, Barbie, Coca Cola, Disney, eBay, Fila, Google, H&M, IBM, Johnson´s, Kellogg´s, Lego, MTV, Nintendo, Oakley, Puma, QuickTime, RAC, Sega, Texaco, Unilever, Virgin, Walkman Sony,

Home style cooking fresh, comfortable, new, specious, clean and view at the park from the balcony.

Menu twice a day from only 8 soles! Opening hours: Lunch 12:30 – 15:30 Dinner 19:00 – 23:00 (2nd floor)

FROM ONLY 8 SOLES!

Located near ´Casa de Guias´ and in the Parque Ginebra.

The Huaraz Telegraph June edition 2012  

The third edition of The Huaraz Telegraph with

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