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July 2012


Gringo Incarcerated Lonely Planet Visits Huaraz in Local Prison? Anxious days for restaurant and hostel owners last month, as Lonely Planet visited the city of Huaraz and its surrounding areas. Which businesses will be surprised with a new notice in the book and which ones will be kicked out? The Huaraz Telegraph had dinner at El Fogon with Lonely Planet´s author and found out some interesting information. Read the complete story on page 3.

Craftspeople, Scam Artists or Genuine Hardworkers?

We all have our prejudices about craftspeople or artisans. Is it true that they sell drugs, do they sleep on the street or are they alcoholics? The Huaraz Telegraph was wondering what they thought about the existing prejudices as we interviewed two friendly craftspeope at Parque del Periodista. Read more on page 4.

Last month, The Huaraz Telegraph paid a visit to the penitentiary in Huaraz to see if there were any foreigners locked up. Was it easy to get in, would there be a foreigner inside and would he or she be willing to talk with The Huaraz Telegraph? Read about this remarkable experience on pages 6 & 7.

President of Peru Celebrating ´Dia del Campesino´ in Huaraz

Texas Hold ‘em Poker Tournament Announced!

President of the Republic of Peru, Ollanta Humala Tasso and his wife First Lady Nadine Heredia were in Huaraz on June 24th to hand-in property certificates to the villagers of the communities of San Juan Bautista Piscobamba, Cochabamba and Ayllu Auquimarca de QuishuarAija. Minutes before, the first ever marathon of Huaraz was kicked off and later that day in the afternoon, people could visit the third fair ´Alimentaria Andina´ with typical regional food. See page 5. What to do in and Around Huaraz See page 19 for details.

Sierra Andina Micro Brewery Produces Quality Beer in Huaraz. Page 11.

Every Thursday from the 12th of this month at 7 pm, The Huaraz Telegraph will be organizing a Texas Hold ‘em poker tournament. Instead of visiting the city´s shopping mall, bowling alley or subtropical pool, consider joining us and win cash! The tournaments will be held at Shakui Restaurant which can be found in Parque de Ginebra (see the back page for their ad). Ask your hostel owners where it is, in case you have never heard of this well hidden park in Huaraz.

Also in this July edition: • New city map on pages 12 & 13. • Travellers information! • Mormons in Huaraz • 1st ever marathon in Huaraz. • Peruvian and Andean food • Street drinks in Huaraz • Ultimate Frisbee! • Tourist Police exists 12 years • Mountain guides, treks and hikes in the Cordilleras and much more...

Huanchaco is Waiting for you See pages 21-22-23 for details.


Tourist Information

The Huaraz Telegraph July 2012

The Tourist Police

Apart from i-Peru, cafes and many restaurants, The Huaraz Telegraph is also available for free at the following hostels and hotels in Huaraz. In return for their name, they receive our newspaper available for you to read in their hostel! The Huaraz Telegraph does not recommend any hostel in particular as we are completely neutral. What do you do when you have something stolen Please inform us if you are staying in one of the places listed below and our newspaper is not available or if you or feel that you have been ripped off? What do you have seen our newspaper thrown away or even burned in the chimney by your hostel owners or their employees, please inform us by writing to do when you are unhappy about the service you

have received from a tour agency, a hotel, a restaurant, a transport company, customs or even the police?

You can call the 24-hour Tourist Protection Service hotline Servicio de Protecion al Turista, (INDECOPI). Staff are trained to handle most complaints in English. If an immediate solution is not possible, INDECOPI claims to follow up disputes by filing a formal complaint with the relevant authorities. Bare in mind that the police in popular tourist spots like, Cusco, Arequipa and Huaraz have become stricter about investigating reported thefts, after a spate of false claims by dishonest tourists. This means that genuine victims may be grilled more severely than expected. The police may even come and search your hotel, hostel or tour agency for the “stolen” items. If your claim is genuine then stick to your guns and insist that you get a written report. Peru’s headquarters for the tourist police are in Lima at the Museo de La Nacion, Javier Prado Este 2465, 5th floor (tel 01/225-8699, 437-8171 or 435-1342). Huaraz´ tourist police can be found on the Plaza de Armas, Av. Luzuriaga 724 near the Municipality and i-Peru. Their telephone numbers are 42-2920 and 42-1351. Remember, the tourist police are there to help the tourists. The Tourist Police can be recognized by their green uniforms and their friendly smile.

To hostel owners: In case we´ve missed your hostel, we apologize. Please contact The Huaraz Telegraph and make sure your establishment will be mentioned in the next edition. In case of any errors, please also contact The Huaraz Telegraph by sending us an email at

Local News

The Huaraz Telegraph July 2012

by Rex Broekman

Lonely Planet Visits Huaraz Anxious days for restaurant and hostel owners last month, as Lonely Planet visited the city of Huaraz and its surrounding areas. Which businesses will be surprised with a notice in the book and which ones will be kicked out? Huge pressure on the shoulders of Kevin Raub, author of the northern sections of Peru (with exception of the amazonas) for the Lonely Planet. Rex Broekman of The Huaraz Telegraph had dinner at El Fogon with Kevin and discovered some interesting information like: how does the selection process work, who’s in & who’s out of the new edition and has Kevin ever been bribed by people trying to get into, what some travelers call the ‘Holy Bible of traveling’? Old-style journalism as there was no recorder present at the dinner table, Kevin could not remember ever having done an interview without his iPod or recorder. It was the amateur interviewing the pro, no matchsticks in the pasta this time (see first edition), a relaxed atmosphere and instead a very decent ´pollo a la brasa´. Kevin Raub is a Brazil-based travel and entertainment journalist who grew up in Atlanta. He started his career in entertainment in New York, working for Men’s Journal and Rolling Stone magazines and freelancing for men’s magazines like FHM, Stuff and Maxim. He spent five years in Los Angeles as the senior writer for, CDNOW’s now-defunct groundbreaking online music news site. Kevin Raub is one of the feared authors of the Lonely Planet Peru book who spent around two weeks in Ancash to cover the entire Cordilleras area. Thanks to his reputation as a recognized, wellestablished travel journalist, Raub obtained the opportunity of becoming a travel journalist for Lonely Planet. Kevin stressed that not everyone can work for the Lonely Planet as people need to have a journalism background to obtain the job. He had to complete a non-paid, extensive writing test of 2.000 words for Lonely Planet. He chose his neighborhood of Los Angeles which worked out very well as he has now visited 78 countries in his life due to his journalism carreer and counts Ecuador as the latest

one. Hostels and restaurants will all want the spot of their rivals and will try whatever it takes to draw the attention of the Lonely


Private and shared cabins with steam or dry option Refreshing cold showers available Therapeutic & treatment table with the following options: chiropractic & acupressure heat therapy (infrared wavelengths) acupuncture and massage.

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All authors also consider letters written by travelers with recommendations or criticisms. However, Kevin mentioned that most written letters were negative, meaning that people were complaining that facts were incorrect or that places had closed down. ¨All information is correct at the moment of writing. If El Fogon decides to increase their prices tomorrow, people will see that as my mistake. They forget that it will take up to eleven months to eventually publish the book because of research, editing and printing. In other words, it takes a very long time before travelers finally get a hand on the book, ¨ explained Kevin.

Kevin Raub working on his laptop

Planet but what is the correct manner of getting in the book? It all starts with the previous edition; the places mentioned in that edition will likely get a visit from the author. Some have closed, some have changed their address and some have dropped in quality. After doing extensive


Enjoy fresh juices, natural yogurt with fruit, fruit salads and sandwiches in our little cafeteria.

internet and in-person research, it becomes a game of juggling space for each city or region in the book.

Call us: 971863202 RPM#0417713 We are located 15 mins from Huaraz towards Caraz. Take a combi on Fitzcarald before the bridge. La Reserva is on the right hand side after 8 km.

So how strict or corrupt is Kevin? Has he ever been bribed? ¨No, never! Let´s put it this way, some Latin Americans have asked me, ´what do I have to do (pay) to get my business in the book´? This is because some domestic travel guides in Peru (or other Latin countries) require businesses to pay to get a notice in their guidebook. The Lonely Planet does not work that way so I have never been bribed. If they sometimes find out who I am, they say, ´Es una cortesia!´. But we do not accept freebies at LP, so I usually have to argue with them and force them to take my money! Once in Cartagena (Colombia), a hostel just would not take my money no matter how hard I tried. We argued and argued. Finally, I walked away and emailed my editor about the problem and she said, ´Go back and tell them if they don’t take the money, you cannot put them in the guide.´ So I went back and they took the money right away when I said that! You could say that this was an attempt of bribery.

Kevin is strict because he also mentioned that when a business is closed during working hours, it makes it a lot harder to keep them in the book as he hasn´t been able to try their food or services. He´ll come back a few times to try again but often times people have jetted off on vacation, which would be really bad timing. But in the end, there are many factors

3 that are considered with what goes in and out. Kevin continued: ¨You can get a lot of work done visiting hotels, hostels, museums and attractions because they´re always there and are normally open. Restaurants cause you to stay in a place a lot longer because you can only eat so many meals in a day. At the end of the day, we aim to put the best options across all budgets in the guidebook in order to give travelers the best experience and I think we usually do a pretty awesome job of sorting through all the local politics to get to that point.¨ I was also wondering having visited 78 countries in his life, which would be Kevin´s favorite and which would be his least favorite. ¨It used to be Brazil, until I discovered its bad sides. I now like the ´-lands´, referring to Ireland, Scotland and Iceland but also Israel and India are fascinating if you forget the religious discussions going on there. Venezuela is not one of my favorites, at least not Caracas, where it can be very dangerous and unsafe. You constantly need to watch your back, especially if the Policia Metropolitana are behind you. However awesome restaurants and nightlife help soften that blow a bit. The rest of Venezuela, like Parque Nacional Cainama and Angel Falls, are astonishingly beautiful, but Hugh Chavez has let the country get out of hand. Honduras is also near the bottom of the list but the islands are nice!¨ Does Kevin have the best job in the world, traveling the world and getting paid for it? ¨I have everyone else’s dream job but it is not as dreamy as everyone thinks. It´s seriously a lot of work and I often put in 14-hour days! Depending on the assignment and country this can last for five to nine weeks in a row.¨ ¨Of course, I get a budget for every assignment and could stay in five star hotels if I want to but when I spend more than calculated, I am the one paying for it. It’s boom, boom! There is not much time to enjoy although it´s an awesome job. Huaraz for example is an awesome base for mountaineering and trekking and it has a good tourist infrastructure plus there is a great diversity of food. I believe it’s a beautiful spot,” said Kevin while we enjoyed ´pollo a la brasa´ and a craft beer made in Huaraz. “I’m sitting here with you having dinner and I get paid but remember, it’s still a job!¨ During dinner I was informed that some local businesses will have to improve their service to reappear in the 2016 edition of the Lonely Planet, as they will not be included in the 2013 edition. I think that I will keep that a secret for now! For those who are wondering if their business is reconsidered for the next edition will have to wait until April 2013, when the eighth edition of the Peru Lonely Planet comes out.

Street Vendors


by Rex Broekman

Craftspeople, scam artists or genuine hardworking people?

They´re everywhere. They´re in every part of the world, and also in Huaraz. They can be found in Parque del Periodista (Park of the Journalist, how ironic), and were happily surprised with our interest about us finding out who they really are. We all have our prejudices about craftspeople or artisans, but is it true that they sell drugs, do they sleep on the street or are they alcoholics? Time to find out. Can you tell us something about your background and who you are?

them bad… It´s how it works in life. ¨ What are the positive things about being an artisan?

Maria: ¨ My name is Maria Cavo Ordeano and I am between 30 and 40 years old (laughing). I was born in Huaraz, so I am a true Huaracina. My partner is called Danny Colonia Guimaray. I have two children, one is sixteen years of age and my youngest is 3 years old. I studied to become a tourist guide one day but I quit because of a lack of money, unfortunately.¨

Maria: ¨It makes me feel good. Why? Because I like it. This is important. On the other hand it helps us survive (economically). It´s not a 9 to 5 job and there is no boss yelling or screaming: ¨do this, do that¨. Another thing is that we learn from all those different nationalities showing up every day.¨

How long have you been an artisan for?

What are the negative things about being an artisan?

Maria: ¨We have been working as artisans for the past 15 years. I have been to Europe a couple of times to visit Italy, Germany and the Netherlands but because of my youngest child, we are staying in Huaraz. We have travelled a lot in the past, to Mancora, Piura and Trujillo but nowadays we have settled here in Parque de Periodista in Huaraz. ¨

Danny: ¨Well, we don’t have a roof if you know what I mean. We can´t sell on the street.¨¨

Foreigners are familiar with craftspeople but how about Peruvians? Maria: ¨The main difference is that Peruvians (I don’t want to generalize, so not all) don´t see the artistic value of the work we do. We are artists, not drug sellers. Furthermore the Peruvian customers ask for discounts. They consider a necklace or bracelet as cheap when it´s not made of pure gold or silver. We are trying to convince them that it is actually art that we´re selling. And of course, art has its price because it is art! We spend sometimes days making one necklace but the customer doesn’t see that. It costs a lot of time and patience. In general, I think it would be fair to say that from May until September every year we sell more to foreigners and in the low season to national tourists.¨ Have you ever been threatened or intimidated, or had something stolen? Maria: ¨No! Not in Huaraz on the street. My partner has been robbed on a bus once in Lima where they pulled his work out the bus and ran off. People treat us very well actually. We make friendships with our customers and it´s very interesting to meet people from other countries, we learn from that. I always believe that if you treat people well, they will treat you the same way. If you treat

The Huaraz Telegraph July 2012

stand next to each other like some sort of a family or is it just a show?

Yes or No questions to clear up some prejudices about artisans:

Maria: ¨There is rivalry everywhere. We used to be friends in the past and we helped the restaurants painting etc. Nowadays it is everyone on their own. We are not friends.¨

Artisans are alcoholics: ¨Yes.¨ Artisans use drugs: ¨Yes.¨ Artisans sell drugs: ¨Yes.¨ Artisans are poor: ¨No.¨ Artisans are dirty: ¨No.¨ Artisans sleep on the street: ¨No.¨ Artisans are friendly: ¨Yes.¨ Artisans are not intelligent: ¨No.¨ The square root of 9 is 3: ¨… (Thinking then laughing), this is to check my intelligence? Hahaha. I never liked mathematics.¨ I am the best crafts worker of Huaraz: ¨No.¨

You are mentioning the restaurants, what´s their opinion about the craftspeople in the Park? Maria: ¨Some of them let us use their bathroom if we need to. We are happy with that you will understand. Some want to get us out of the park (she is pointing to a freshly painted restaurant) and have even presented official letters to the local government. The majority is friendly and we try to recommend them to foreigners.¨ How much do you make a week (a very opportunistic question, if I may say so of which I didn’t think beforehand to get the answer from)? Maria: ¨It´s expensive to travel. The good thing is that the buy-in of materials is cheap and the sale price is a lot higher, but we are not calculating the hours we are working to get a necklace done. A detailed, polished rock is eventually more

Danny: ¨I like your questions and I understand why you ask them. I would like to explain that there are two types of craftspeople. The first group has a passion for art and creating things. We consider ourselves to belong to that first group. The second group, however, just sells to cover up. They sell handicrafts but that is not their core business. They sell to buy if you know what I mean. We are not alcoholics but craftsmen belonging to the second group are, mostly. ¨ My questions intrigued Danny as he continued:

Wait a second, you say you can´t sell on the street? This is not the street?

¨I would like to explain that there are two types of craftspeople. The first group has a passion for art and creating things. We consider ourselves to belong to that first group. The second group, however, just sells to cover up. They sell handicrafts but that is not their core business. They sell to buy if you know what I mean. We are not alcoholics but craftsmen belonging to the second group are, mostly. ¨ Danny: ¨We get no governmental support. What I mean is that we have to be here in the Park because they don´t allow us selling on the main street. If we would be able to sell on the main street we would make money the whole year. Now we stand in a hidden place, without a roof while the main street is covered. We can´t rent a shop because the rent here in Huaraz is ridiculously high. There is a ´feria´ (referring to the stands next to the cathedral on the Plaza de Armas), but we are denied to have a stand there. They have an association but anytime someone retreats his stand there they make sure that some family member joins.¨ Is there a rivalry between artisans? What I mean is, you people always

Maria trying to sell her crafswork in Parque de Periodista

expensive than a coarse rock. We work from 09:00 in the morning until 19:00 every day, and hope that it won´t rain because if it rains, there are no sales. On a decent day we make S. / 400, but that day can be followed up by three days of no sales at all. In low season I sometimes cry, it´s a bit depressive if you´re not selling because the bills keep coming.¨ Danny: ¨Sometimes I have been working for weeks to get it perfect and it hurts to sell. I mean the money is just money. If you have made it with love than it hurts to see someone buy it because you will never see your art again. ¨ When you were a child, you wanted to become a…? Maria: ¨A ballerina! I love dancing.¨ Finally, to round up the interview some

¨I know that artisans have a bad reputation, but your readers should understand that we´re not all fitting the profile. People say: ¨ow, he has a ponytail, a beard, he must sell drugs¨. So Danny, can you sell me 400 kg of coke please (smiling)? ¨I told you before we don’t sell, have never sold. It use to piss me of when ´gringos´ approached us in the past asking. I tell them to go to a bar. I have no idea where they get it finally. Thanks Maria and Danny for your honesty and fair answers. Maria: ¨Thank you for thinking about us and clearing up some things that we wanted to share. We wish you all the best with your newspaper, and would love to get a copy when published.¨

The Huaraz Telegraph July 2012

June 24th - the day of many celebrations The Tourist Police celebrated its 12th anniversary with a mass at eight o´clock in the morning, followed by a small celebration in the Auditorium of the National Culture Institution of Ancash. During this celebration they saluted three anthems (Peru´s, Huaraz´ and theirs) with some nice words from the head of DIVTUPRAMB-PNP (we don´t know what this means either) in Huaraz. The celebration was concluded with a toast of honor. Later that afternoon, there was a lunch at Recreo La Colina with the founders of The Huaraz Telegraph present. Special thanks to Robinzon Marino Tinoco Ramirez of the Tourist Police for the invitation. ´Dia del Campesio´ (Day of the peasant) was also celebrated on June

Local News 24th by many farmworkers who had come to Huaraz to attend a fair on the Main Square and the food fair at the facilities of the Regional Agrarian Institute of Ancash. Those having a stand were given the opportunity to promote their products to the public and were also surprised with a visit from the President of

Peru Ollanta Humala Tasso and his wife Nadine Heredia, the Mayor of Huaraz Vladimir Meza Villarreal and the President of the Region Cesar Alvarez. For those present early in the morning, they have witnessed the first ever marathon in Huaraz. Though not 42 kilome-

Different types of potatoes at the fair but unfortunately no tamales

Runners present at the starting line of the first ever Marathon of Huaraz


by Rex Broekman

ters, different distances for different age groups started on the ´Plaza de Armas´ and ended in ´El Pinar´ or in the town of ´Marian´. The Huaraz Telegraph spotted different participants from 12 years of age to people over 60. Inscriptions were free and promoted by the Government of Huaraz and the Peruvian Sports Institute.

On the left, the Republic´s First Lady with President Ollanta Humala on her side

The lovely members of Huaraz´ Tourist Police at the mass on June 24th

Welcome all visitors to this generous city, surrounded by towering snow peaked mountains.

The traditional 13 Buhos Bar has evolved and has now a new home for all travelers and locals to enjoy. You can find us in Parque de Ginebra only 15 meters from Casa de Guias! The name of our exciting new enterprise is Café Café 13 Buhos. Our new concept allows us to offer our clients a better and larger space with free unlimited WIFI, organic coffee, friendly staff, a terrace with views of the park and great food. Of course the artisanal Lucho´s Beers: Ale Blondie, Red Ale, Dark Ale, Red Coca Beer and Dark Coca Beer are also available, giving our old and new clients as many options as possible. In our lounge you will find many other travelers or mountaineers. If you wish, you even have the possibility to play music with your instruments for our clients because of a special space created to demonstrate your artistic expression. Our goal is have to a friendly, relaxed atmosphere to suit and please every mood. As an extra bonus, if you don´t like our coffee, our beer or our food, you will not pay! Yours truly,

Local News


by Rex Broekman

The Huaraz Telegraph July 2012

Guilty or not guilty? We paid a visit to the Local Prison to check if there would be any Foreigners present.

The Huaraz Telegraph was wondering if there would be any foreigners in jail here, would they be open for an interview? As it turns out, there is one. Lewis Charles Cornelius, a 51 year old man from South Africa who has five year left on his sentence is being held in a place where you can´t take a camera or apples while visiting. Razors though, no problem! Story by Rex Broekman

My day started at 09:00 in the morning where I should meet with someone from the Tourist Police to accompany me into the penitentiary. Having read Marching Powder and being a massive fan of prison movies like Shawshank Redemption, Escape from Alcatraz and Prison Break, I had no clue what to expect. I was excited but honestly also nervous. Could I get in with my camera, would the guards let me have the interview and would the two ´gringos´ be willing to meet me? The day before, Trevor (co-founder of The Huaraz Telegraph) and I went to the market to do some shopping. We bought some fruit, cookies, snacks and drinks. We´d been informed that these are common things to bring to the penitentiary. Hopefully one of the two foreigners would be happy to see us and would be willing to tell their story. Luckily someone from the Tourist Police joined us, making us feel a bit more at ease. On Father´s Day, when we arrived at the penitentiary (near the Stadium of Rosas Pampa), we saw a long line of people, who were waiting to see their loved ones, family members or friends. From the outside, it didn´t look as a state of the art prison. We could only visit the jail on Sundays. This is the only day it is possible to visit the male cons. The female part of the prison is open for visitors on Wednesdays. Unfortunately we were told to leave our camera, cellphone and other electronic devices at the office of the ´Penal´. The young Diego Placen-

cia Vidal from the Tourist Police had to leave his gun and bullets behind as well. Then we went in. We had to register and leave our passport (a sort of check-in as you get in a hotel or hostel). Trevor had only brought a copy of his passport and this was just enough to pass (probably thanks to Diego). Shortly after that, we were searched individually by another guard. I went first and was out after 10 seconds having some pocket money and keys, but that was no problem at all. Then Trevor went through but that took longer then a minute. Pretty soon afterwards the guards told me that he couldn’t get in because of a visit to Sierra Andina and X-treme bar the night before. He was denied entrance because he was still intoxicated. Poor me, I was on my own. Once in prison, I was ordered to sit down at those places where you can speak with the prisoners with a fence between us. The guards told me that they would call the South African. This is when I found out that there was only one foreigner and not two as I was told before by the Tourist Police. Seconds later, Lewis Charles Cornelius stood before me. WHAT? Could he just walk in here? Where I thought he´d at least be behind a fence. But, he could. Could he stab me, hit and touch me? Yes, he could if he wanted to. He introduced himself and asked what I was here for. I told him I am making a newspaper in English and was wondering if he would tell me his story. I showed him the April, May and June editions of The Huaraz Telegraph I brought with

The Huaraz´ Víctor Pérez Liendo penitentiary is right behind the stadium of Rosas Pampa.

me and gave him the food Trevor and I bought at the market. ¨Sure, no problem,¨ Lewis said. It was pretty clear Lewis was happy with my visit as he started to talk without even having asked him a single question. He flip-flopped from here to there and I had to ask him to slow down because I wasn’t able to process all of the scrambled information at once. He was full of energy but very calm. I didn’t feel uncomfortable when I told him that it would be better if I asked the questions and he would answer them. ¨That´s probably better, yes.¨ My first question was, what are you here for and why you are in Huaraz´ prison? To which he replied that he had been incarcerated in Lima’s prison since October 2005 because of an incident at Jorge Chavez Airport involving 17 kilos of raw coke, otherwise known as ‘chlor’. According to Lewis he was set up because he was asked to check-in someone else’s bag on a flight to South Africa. A bag that he didn’t inspect before trying to pass airport security. Passing security he was asked to open the bag and to his shock he said, they found 17 kilos of ‘chlor’. “I got 12 years and six months sentenced with ´benefits´ but on the 9th of October 2009, I was

Lewis Charles Cornelius back in 2009, when he was treated in the hospital. Picture courtesy of

transferred to Huaraz without any reason I am aware of. Here in Huaraz I lost all the benefits I had before in Lima (Callao) plus because I appealed four times to my sentence, I have lost the ´2-9-6´ (code referring to the benefits or restrictions in prison). Now I am HIV positive. I receive treatment and I am staying in the ´Tópico´(hospital section of the ´Penal´, also known as the infirmary),¨ Lewis added. I guess Ellis Boyd “Red” Redding was wrong in Shawshank when he said: ´Everyone in here is innocent´. Lewis went on: ¨It´s a sad situation Rex! Thanks for hearing me out. After three years, my wife stopped sending me letters. I thought that this was very rare, but then I found out that my wife had been caught with drugs in Bolivia, three years after me. I assure you man, she was not trafficking but she´s still in prison.¨ Coincidence? ¨I am not married Rex but love the woman I call my wife very much. We have eight children together and am almost 52 years of age. I wouldn’t lie to you at this stage; I hope to get out soon.¨ Lewis, do you get help from the outside? ¨Nothing man! When I come out one day, I will for sure sue my Embassy. I used to have communication with my wife and children but they (the South African Embassy) haven’t visited me once. They make promises, like Peruvians here, but never fulfill their promises. Two years ago, an inmate spoke to my Embassy and heard that they would pay a visit to my wife in Bolivia. It´s compulsory! They haven’t visited me once in Huaraz; they must think it´s too far from Lima. They do not only neglect my human rights, they also rob my personal items. My wife sent me a bible once but it never made it here. My wife must be thinking why do I not accept her sendings but I never get to see them. I get only one visitor every now and then. This guy was at the ´Topico´ with me here and that´s it. I actually thought when they called me that there was a visitor, that it would be him. But it was you.¨

The Huaraz Telegraph July 2012 Lewis, how is your contact with the other inmates? ¨I get discriminated a lot here. Not just by inmates, especially by the guards. They hate South Africans. Let me tell you a story. The guards here like to demonstrate their power. We get beaten for nothing. Sometimes we have to sit on our knees and if we move one muscle, we get hit. They hit us to make an example. ´Pachas´ was an inmate who was in the hospital for two weeks, until he died. Eight of us were mistreated badly but only Pachas was sent to the hospital (Lewis showed me a big scar on his chest). When I and seven others were hit, afterwards all inmates decided to have a hunger strike but when ´Human Rights´ visited us that day nothing changed. I live without fear, I am not scared. I am getting older but I still know how to defend myself because of some martial arts I practiced in the past but luckily most do respect me. I don’t have that much contact with the other inmates as I was transferred out of the heavy secured section into the infirmary here. Things are quieter here.¨ I was also wondering how is the food in jail Lewis? ¨Not too bad. We get soup, olives, bread and some ´Quaker´ in the morning but we can buy stuff here but you have to have money.¨ Do you have any notice what happens on the outside? ¨Yeah, a little bit. There is a pavilion with a television and we hear quickly when new inmates are brought in.¨ How are the prison cell conditions and what does your day look like? ¨There is a hole in every cell (toilet) and in ´Maximum´ two people stay in one cell, sharing a bunk bed. In other parts of the prison, inmates have to share a cell with sometimes more than ten others. It´s sort of clean but you´d probably say it is really dirty. When we wake up (in the infirmary there is no role call, so we get up ourselves), we first wash ourselves and brush our teeth. Then we have breakfast and read some newspapers. It is difficult when you don´t have money. No money in prison means life has no value.¨ How do you make money? ¨I don’t! Some of the lawyers visiting the inmates sometimes give me a couple of Soles. There was one fat but friendly lawyer who used to help me out with small cash but he passed away unfortunately. If you have money here, you´re king. There are shops in jail and those shops are run by convicts. It is very expensive to buy something here. A box of milk is five Soles for example (three soles in the supermarkets). You can even buy razors here at those shops.¨ Isn’t that forbidden? ¨No, I guess not. There is a rule here: if you die, you die. We are ´only´ inmates.¨ I thought to myself, he must be short on cash because of his beard. Have you ever considered suicide?

Local News by Rex Broekman

¨Yes, on many occasions but I have eight children and a wife you know. Besides I believe in God and believe he has saved me a spot in heaven once I die.¨ Are there many (sexual) violations between inmates that you know of? ¨My Bible tells me that relations between man & man and woman & woman are wrong (Lewis said this actually in Afrikaans, his native language). I do, however, have no opinion about that. They have to do whatever they want. I

because of diarrhea when having AIDS, you will never gain the same weight as before. Finally, you will die because of being underweight. You cannot get out of bed anymore and feel without energy. You can eat as much as you want but won’t gain weight ever again.¨ When I said goodbye, Lewis mentioned that he would help me out with a picture. A story needs a picture, but unfortunately the guards would allow me to take a razor into the prison but not my

Long lines of people waiting at the prison´s entrance on Father´s Day.

don’t have it in me. I consider myself as a helper, not a violator. In the past I was a millionaire you know. I was running a diamond digging company but three family businesses went down the drain. All because of trusting the wrong people. Now I am broke and need 15.000 soles to get out. Mission impossible, but I am trying to contact Prisoners Abroad which is an English organization. And you don’t need to be an Englishman to get help. Maybe you or your readers can help me with that. I just need someone to send the message. I pray a lot, that helps.¨ Finally I got to the question of how Lewis got infected with the HIV virus. He said: ¨Needles man, needles. When my wife stopped sending letters or when some people started keeping them in their desks, I started to use drugs. Back in Callao prison this happened. Now I have to take pills every day, but there are other inmates here at the infirmary that get twice the amount of pills. I feel discriminated. There is alcohol abuse and drugs abuse in the prison here in Huaraz as well.¨ What? Are you serious? I was forbidden to bring you any apples or grapes because they suspect inmates to make alcohol of it. ¨Haha, serious? They sell apples and grapes in the prison here so that’s weird. They make every sort of alcohol here of potatoes, rice and even tomatoes. I think 85% of the inmates use drugs.¨ So do you use drugs? ¨No, I have been clean for more than two years now. I have to take care of myself having AIDS. When you lose weight

camera. He quickly made a phone call with some pocket money I handed him. I was promised to get a picture of him by email. Could I summarize saying that you were an idiot when it all happened Lewis? ¨Yes! A great idiot¨, he replied smiling when he hung up the phone and saying: ¨thanks for your visit!¨ Let´s hope I get my picture, I thought. When leaving he asked me if I could also send my story to Gringo Karl, an ex-convict and fellow South African, who has his circus in Lima with Katty Portela, better

7 known as ´La Flor de Huaraz´. ¨Maybe he can help me? We met in jail in Callao and he is famous now. I was best friends with his father back in South Africa.¨ According to one guard at the moment of visiting the prison, there were exactly 596 men and 40 women incarcerated. Some inmates for stealing pork at the market just had to spend one night, others for murder or manslaughter obviously much longer. If Lewis Charles Cornelius is not able to contact anyone from abroad for help, or can´t find 15.000 Soles, he is supposed to be released in 2017. Lewis can be visited on Sundays and would kindly want to ask readers to bring some small money, food or useful material like old clothes or soap, when visiting him. It is safe to visit the prison, on the other hand, feel free to visit the Tourist Police on the Main Square (Plaza de Armas) if you want them to accompany you, as I did. Getting less than 10 visitors a year, I felt bad for Lewis. Lewis didn’t beg for money on the day The Netherlands were knocked out of the European Championships of football, but I felt happy to help him out a bit with 20 soles I had in my pockets. I know, he has to pay for what he has done. It sounds a bit suspicious having your wife and yourself in jail at the same time but still, poor Lewis. I wouldn’t want to swap roles. Some people criticized me this week that I should not give my opinion in The Huaraz Telegraph. I disagree, sorry guys, I strongly feel I have to. For those readers who don´t want to visit the prison but do want to help Lewis, be so kind to contact the South African Embassy or contact Prisoners Abroad. If enough people write, he might finally get a visit from someone that is able to help him.

Mountain Guides

8 MOUNTAIN GUIDE: A RISKY PROFESSION A mountain guide is a professional mountaineer with a high level of commitment, dedication, and technical skill. They are trained to guide a person or a group of people in mountainous areas, giving instructions and training on climbing techniques while providing their clients with safety from the inherent risks of mountaineering. In order to get the Mountain Guide accreditation, it is necessary to obtain full certification following a three-yearcourse which provides key knowledge from the mountaineering world and rock, ice and mixed terrain climbing techniques. The superior technological institute Centro de Estudios de Alta Montaña (CEAM) or Center for High Mountain Studies, prepares official mountain guides based on a professional profile and a syllabus approved by the Ministry of Education. The accreditation of nationally recognized diplomas is issued by Higher Education Centers authorized by the Peruvian State. For example, the Peruvian State recognizes the Mountain Guide profession with a nationally accredited diploma of OFFICIAL MOUNTAIN GUIDE; consequently, any courses to obtain this recognition must be in accordance with the academic parameter of a three-year course (6 semesters) in centers officially recognized by the State. The issuing of nationally recognized diplomas is carried out by higher education institutes authorized by the Peruvian State. All nationally recognized diplomas must be issued following a minimum of three years of study (six semesters). This being so, institutions offering shorter courses cannot offer nationally recognized diplomas; moreover, such institutes are in breach of government regulations. HISTORY IN TRAINING PERUVIAN MOUNTAIN GUIDES Before 1978, there were only porters with basic knowledge of climbing techniques in our region. These porters used to assist climbing expeditions and occasionally guiding groups on their own. However, mountaineers were normally accompanied by guides from their own countries who were qualified mountain guides with considerable technical skill to do ascents. This was the golden age for mountaineering in Europe, and the Cordillera Blanca was one of the principal destinations for climbers; therefore, it was

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The Huaraz Telegraph July 2012

necessary to train Peruvian guides in accordance with international standards. Thus in 1978 the professional training of mountain guides commenced. 30 candidates from Ancash, Arequipa and Cuzco, took part in the first course. Following a thorough evaluation process, eight of these candidates completed the training in Switzerland and upon their return they founded the Asociación de Guías de Montaña del Peru (AGMP) or the Peruvian Mountain Guides Association. From here in advance, as with all mountaineering countries, this national organization has been responsible for the preparation of mountain guides. Currently the AGMP has 140 official mountain guides throughout the country. Since 1980 the AGPM has organized and sponsored the National Course in Safety and Mountain Rescue every year so that its members are always well-trained and prepared to respond effectively in emergency situations, carrying out rescue missions to assist and evacuate people in danger.

Casa de Guias (House of the Guides) as it can be found in Parque de Ginebra.

Currently, the training of mountain guides is carried out by the Centro de Estudios de Alta Montaña (CEAM), sponsored by the Asociación de Guias de Montaña del Perú and in accordance with guidelines set by the International Federation of Mountain Guides Associations (IFMGA) THE ORGANIZATION The legally recognized institution: La Asociación de Guías de Montaña del Perú (AGMP) is made up of three regional associations: AGMP – Ancash, AGMP – Arequipa y AGMP – Cuzco; being a member party of the IFMGA since 1990. IFMGA is the principal international organization regarding authorizations and issuing mountain guide qualifications. The named organization also provides instructors and/or supervisors for training courses for our guides as well as the AGMP’s instructors.

Mountain guides getting instructed by Casa de Guias.

Quality New Chifa

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HOW TO HIRE A MOUNTAIN GUIDE The headquarters of The Asociación de Guías de Montaña del Perú (AGMP) is at The Casa de Guías in Huaraz. Here you can find an information office and a point of contact for hiring mountain guides for various activities: • • • •

Guided mountain ascents. Rock climbing courses. Ice climbing courses. Rescue missions

Address: Casa de Guías, Parque Ginebra 28-G, Telephone: 043 427545 / 421811 – Huaraz. Email:

Delivery call 043 221842

The Huaraz Telegraph July 2012

Emolientes What are Emolientes? Well it’s 10am and I haven’t been sick or had diarrhea yet after trying them the previous night so no complaints so far. If you ever wondered what drinks they were selling on the street and why then this is the article for you. Emolientes are a variety of warm drinks sold in Peru that are said to have healing properties for the body.

Street Drinks The last variety of Emoliente is also taken in shot form. This contains congona, (a plant with small leaves native to South America) and is washed down with a glass of the basic formula but in this case without lemon. I was told by Julian Minaya, who can be found just behind the Plaza de Armas past Interbank, every

me it is bitter, followed by our last drink the congona shot. Both were washed down with a glass of the basic formula. I tried the congona shot first, kept a straight face and said: ¨it was nice¨. Then Lia tried it “oh my god” she cried, it was terrible.

There are four different types of drinks. The first is the basic formula which is made up of the herbs: chanca piedra (Stonebreaker), uña de gato (cats claw), tamarindo, boldo (primarily grown in Chile, its leafs can be used in a similar fashion to the bay leaf in cooking) and lemon, barley water and linseed. The formula is said to help with stomach, liver and kidneys problems but if it fails to do so, at least it’s a nice, warm, sweet syrupy, lemon flavored drink on a cold morning or night in Huaraz. The second variety, Alfalfa (Lucerne) is used with the principle ingredients to create a green grassy flavored drink which is said to cure a bad cough. The third kind, Hercampuri is a plant which is grown in the Junin Province that has been used in Peruvian medicine folk law since the Incas according to Wiki, so it must be true. The plant is infused together to form a bitter, yellowish drink which is used to help high cholesterol and digestive problems. You take it as a shot before being washed down with a glass of the basic formula.


by Trevor Eagleson

to come and try the Emolientes.” Julian went on to say: “I usually sell more of the basic formula. Sometimes women ask for it without lemon if they’re on their period as they think it’s bad to consume citrus. I really enjoy my job but I’ve had problems with the local government. I’ve been here selling my Emolientes for 27 years, but they want to move me. I don’t understand why? I’m not selling alcohol. Near the plaza there’s a woman selling snow cones but she has special permission from the Tourist Board to be there. Why does she get special treatment and I have to fight to be here? It’s not fair!” The friendly old man went on to tell me that he buys all of his produce at the market on Monday and Tuesday when people from the neighboring countryside descend down to Huaraz to sell their local crops. The boldo, chancapiedra, uña de gato and tamarindo herbs are sourced from the jungle but most come from Huaraz and its surrounding areas.

Julian preparing Emolientes

night from around 6 to 11pm selling the Emoliente remedies that the congona shot was used to treat gastritis and it is also said that the congona leafs can cure earaches.

We spent around 30 minutes talking to Julian and tasting his drinks, during which he served at least 25 drinks to thirsty Peruvians. One woman specifically requested the basic formula drink without lemon.

I went to taste all of the Emolientes and talked to Julian to ask him a few questions about the drinks with my friend Lia, who helped me translate some of his answers. First, we tried the syrupy base followed by the green alfalfa flavored drink. Both were more than palatable. Next up was the bitter Hercampuri shot and trust

Do any gringos try his drinks? “I’ve been working at the same spot since 1985 and during that time the odd gringo has asked about the drinks. I have a few regular gringo customers who recommend me to other gringos, it’s always nice to see them willing to try new things and hopefully in the future they will continue

If you’re wondering why the government is trying to force Julian from his location, it´s because some Emoliente stands also sell Caliche which is an alcoholic beverage using the Emoliente formula and adding either pisco, rum or whisky. Why not visit Julian and try his Emolientes? If you haven’t tried them before. I would strongly recommend trying at least the basic formula. At only 1 Sole per beverage, what can you lose except maybe a few kilos from an upset stomach? You can also sneakily ask him if he sells caliche, you never know. I would like to thank Julian and Lia for making this story possible.

We serve BREAKFAST all days in case your hostel doesn´t! Come to Terracota Fusion from 07:00AM until noon.

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The best Peruvian, creole and international food. In the afternoon Rinconcito offers ´menu´, from 7 soles including an appetizer, a main course and a drink. A true bargain for budget travellers. To be found on: Jr. Julian de Morales 757 or call 043-422-875 / 944-455-956 for more info. Open every day from 07:00AM till 11:00PM and it offers breakfast, lunch and dinner. Free WIFI available.

Poems and Stories


Across at the red bricked wall


From as far back as I can remember I used to sit on this little red-bricked wall across from my house talking about the worlds ups and down with my best friend Laura. She had lived there with her older brother and her mum from when I was about 4 and we hit if off instantly. Over the years we grew quite a strong friendship sitting on that little red-bricked wall. At the tender age of 7 it is where I had my first kiss, while she was a year younger than me she was always open to trying new things on her little red-bricked wall.

I have spent a large amount of my life Close to you, just sharing my happiness. I don´t know if I had an accident to meet you When I was living alone my eyes saw beauty. My loneliness died a long time ago, When I begged you again and again that this is love!

We would go to the park, to the abandoned old peoples home, walk into town and play video games or watch TV with each other or just go on with our separate lives but we always reunited at her little red-bricked wall to talk about how the days events had unfolded.

She agreed to give everything that she had, When the moon rose we loved in secret play. I have given back the same love she lent me. We were totally free when she was strongly agreed. I will always remember this day I can never forgets. There is an image on the wall above my heart. This announces that I am going to live happily. If we don´t take action quickly, our love will die! We can love each other now, or it will be too late after! I really admire you for sharing this exciting moment, My love is an art where my skill makes beautiful things. If you allow me to live close, you will soon feel well again. We have to arrange to meet alone at midnight here, So you will be able to come to love us together, forever. by: Magnus Augustus Cruceroj E-mail: Ciudad universitaria-UNASAM, Pabellón “H” – FCSEC, Av. Universitaria, SHANKAYAN – Independencia

The Huaraz Telegraph July 2012

We weren´t the only ones to enjoy the company of the wall, her brother, my sister who were 2 and 2 ½ years older than me also joined in on occasion, there was also a friend of Laura´s from school and her cousin who would pop by to enjoy the delight of all the red wally goodness. Beside her house laid a row of 4 or 5 houses that had been converted into a government-funded building helping people who were not 100% stable or indeed 100% sane. In this building stayed an old man, who we called J.R; he would turn up every so oven and start talking to us. While not actually sitting on the wall that often he was obviously drawn in by the wall and we grew to like the old man´s ramblings. I heard a month or two ago that he had died in the past year but I´m sure he died happily after the love of our little red-bricked wall had filled the void that so many other walless people have. Through good times and bad the wall was always there for us, with rain, snow or more rain, cancelled Simpsons´ episodes and boring news programs the wall always stood by us. But close to my 11th birthday tragic struck, Laura moved house and the fortress of our little red-bricked wall was no more. Years on I revisited the little red bricked wall and sure enough unchanged there sat a new generation of children, discussing the workings of the world and how they managed to end up sitting here on this little red-bricked wall. No one knows when, how or why the little red-bricked wall was build but although dead to me now and no more than a distant memory the little red-bricked wall lives on, hearing new stories and helping but a few of the worlds children get a grasp of the world around them, who find themselves in the company of this little red-bricked wall. Although part of my childhood died all those years ago I would like to thank that little red-bricked wall. Thank you little red-bricked wall, you where an uncomfortable bastard but you have served the community well and I salute you. by: Trevor Eagleson


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The Huaraz Telegraph July 2012

by Trevor Eagleson


Visit the Sierra Andina Tap Room A taste of home in Huaraz

In September 2011 a new microbrewery opened its doors for the people of Huaraz, thirsty for a real full flavored beer to hit the Peruvian market.

Created by an American, Sierra Andina produces four distinct beers ranging from a smooth, mild easy to drink pale ale (lightest of the beers) to my favourite, a full bodied dark ale which if you’re missing Guinness as much as I am you have to try.

Inti Golden Ale At 5% it´s the light weight of the family but a popular one among Peruvians. Huaracina Pale Ale The editor´s favourite. I asked him to explain why but he couldn’t. “I couldn’t even explain a Dutch beer. Why I like Grolsch? (He shrugs his shoulders)” This one is possibly a bit strong for Peruvian taste buds but for us foreigners used to stronger beers – perfect.

All of the beers are available in most tourist restaurants around town, but to truly appreciate the effort that has been put into creating this excellent beer you have to visit the tap room. The Sierra Andina bar is located in Cascapampa just a 5 minutes taxi ride from the Plaza De Armas and is opened every day of the week from 3pm to 10pm. To gain a better understanding of the brewing process ask one of the friendly bartenders for a free guided tour. They will be more than happy to answer any questions you might have.

Fun and Games at the Sierra Andina Bar As well as guided tours on the educational side of the brewing process, like any other good bar the Sierra Andina tap room is the perfect place to kick back and relax after a long days trekking with some good quality beers, a wide variety of music and a friendly game of darts or various board games with your fellow travellers. In case you get smitten with a dose of the munchies, complimentary snacks are available. However, if you have a larger hole to fill then American style hotdogs are available for purchase. Free filtered Andean water is also available to help avoid the dreaded morning after hangover and like any regular bar, wine

The Four Distinct Flavors of Sierra Andina

To contact the bar: Call: 043-221419 Thirsty punters enjoy their beers at the Sierra Andina bar

and another drinks are also available. For details on upcoming events such as live music, fun interactive competitions or if you simply have any questions regarding Sierra Andina you can visit their website: or join the Sierra Andina Facebook page.

Coming Soon: Home Brewing Course At the time of writing Sierra Andina was in the process of creating a two day home brewing course in English for the tourists in Huaraz to help spread the home brewing philosophy. The course will also give the opportunity to create your very own unique flavored beer. The two day course will include hands on instructions of how to build your own home brewing equipment. As well as practical information on brewing that perfect beer for you to enjoy in the comfort of your own home.

From personal experience of brewing my own beer in Ireland I would strongly recommend it to any

Alpamyo Amber Ale Red in color with a hint of caramel which ranks as my second favorite beer.

beer fan out there. It’s great sitting and enjoying a beer bought in a bar or store but nothing beats the satisfaction of drinking a beer that you have nurtured into existence yourself.

Don Juan Porter My pick of the beers. Initially hit with a coffee taste which subsides to leave a strong full flavored stout throughout. If you’re a fan of strong, dark beers you will love this one.

For further news on this exciting endeavor and to enquire about taking advantage of this fantastic idea please check out the Sierra Andina Facebook page.

We encourage you to give each beer the attention it deserves. You never know over time which one will turn into your favorite beer.

What is the meaning of ‘ale’ you ask? Ale along with lager are the two main styles of beer. The primary characteristics of ale are: It´s top fermented, meaning the yeast floats on the top of the wort in the fermenter rather than settling to the bottom. It´s also fermented at warmer temperatures generally above 60°F. It´s the oldest form of beer. Ale is typically fruitier and more full-bodied than lager.

The Sierra Andina bar is located in the Cascapampa area just a 5 minutes taxi ride from the Plaza De Armas and is opened every day of the week from 3pm to 10pm. Tell the taxi driver to bring you to Avenida Centenario Cascapampa 1690 (frente a Coca Cola en Cascapampa)

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14 Mormons are everywhere! They can’t, however, be found in Cuba, Iran or North Korea, but The Huaraz Telegraph found them here in Huaraz. Lucky us! An interview with two friendly Mormons but first a little insight on the history of the religion and the restrictions put upon them by following their faith.


The Huaraz Telegraph July 2012

by Trevor Eagleson

also be avoided; the Church’ official policy is to leave it up to the individual to decide. Having seen a group of Mormons enjoying a bottle of sprite at ´La Brasa Roja´ earlier this month, it’s safe to say that the Mormons in Huaraz have decided to ignore this particular unwritten rule. Earlier this year we bumped into Elder Nye and Elder Chun. Two American

interview? Obviously within your religion it is forbidden but what do you think of others, not a member of your church having sex before marriage? Nye: “Just as Jesus Christ taught, everything is an invitation. You obviously

Created by Joseph Smith in the 1920s, the Mormon religion moved its base from the state of New York to the Utah area in 1844 following the death of their original founder. Today Mormons can be found all over the world with around 14 million followers and just over 6 million are from the United States. Latter-Day Saints (Mormons) believe that the body is a gift from God to be cared for and respected, not to be polluted or abused. In their daily lives, Saints follow a set of health guidelines that Joseph Smith received from God in 1833 called the Word of Wisdom. As interpreted today, this code states that Mormons should abstain from tea, coffee, alcohol, tobacco and illegal drugs. Changing the morals within the church regarding exactly what the word of wisdom disallows has, over time caused disputes within the religion. For example, the original document warned against drinking any hot beverages, but over time this has become to be interpreted as only hot beverages containing caffeine.

members of The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter Day Saints who are both spending two years in Peru trying to spread the Mormon word. We asked them some questions about their views on modern day living and some general questions about their goals while in Huaraz. We were also curious about why they entered the Church and their history within its establishment. Obviously the Church, like any other, was created by one or a few people with a dream, but in the 21st century, do people really convert into the Mormon Church or are they all born into it?

can’t obligate someone to be a follower of Christ or a follower of God so it depends on each individual. It doesn’t really matter which religion you belong to, you personally feel something for a religion, about for example sex before marriage and you choose what you want to do. We teach that God has asked us not to do that and we teach that God has asked us to preserve sex until marriage.”

Some debate remains over whether cold caffeinated beverages like colas should

Firstly, we asked about their opinions on sex before marriage, why ease into the

You said your family were both originally Mormons. Do you think you

Chun: “More than anything we know how families can be helped by this, and we don’t like to criticize or talk badly about anyone.”

would have converted yourself to become a Mormon if your parents were, for example Hindu, Christian or Muslim? (Short pause). Nye: “Well, that’s an interesting question that has to do with how your life would come about. Um, me, I’m a very logical person. I like to think about things logically so if something makes sense then it makes sense and if it doesn’t make sense then it doesn’t really make sense (did that make sense?). So for me it´s just about proving. Making sure that if it happens the ways it supposed to happen, then it happens. For example, the thing about the Mormon religion is that we believe that the Church of Jesus Christ that He established was lost when the people rejected him and crucified Him.” ”After time, God prepared the world to receive the gospel again. We know this because He provided a way to prove this with the book of Mormon, which is why we have the nickname ‘The Mormons’. God commanded that the book be hidden and come forth in this time so that we could prove that God speaks to man today and that he has restored his priesthood authority on the earth again. The way anyone can know that is by reading the Book of Mormon and by asking God if it is his word or not.” ”For me it was simple. I just had to read the book of Mormon and ask God if it was right. I think me being the way I am and think the way I do I would’ve definitely converted if the Book of Mormon was presented to me.” You said you asked God, how did God respond?


The Huaraz Telegraph July 2012 Nye: “Well, this you can explain with any scripture. In the Bible in James 1:5 it teaches us that if…” Chun: “‘Lack of any man, lack wisdom what I’d ask of God’ so if we have a question, it´s right there. We’re able to ask in prayer. We’re also promised that we’re going to receive these answers through the Holy Ghost and its Spirit which mostly entails the feelings that we have.” What happens when you knock on the doors here? Has anything funny happened? How do the Peruvian people react? Nye: “The first thing we notice is that it’s a little different than in the United States. You knock on doors in the United States and people come immediately, but in Peru you have to knock about forty times before the door is answered. Here we don’t really knock on doors; we usually meet them on the street and so when we come and knock on their door they already know who we are. When we talk on the street it’s a different story. Most of the time they’re very hesitant. One of the most common things they’ll forthrightly say is ‘I’m Catholic’.¨ Have you come across any Peruvians who said they don’t belong to a religion? How did they respond? Nye: “Yes, mostly they just talk about the Big Bang Theory. To that I always just react – well I could explain to you using the bible that the Big Bang Theory is correct but it wouldn’t really do anything for you because you wouldn’t really feel anything. It would just be an interesting thing I would tell you and from there I always tell them we’re here to let you feel God in your life.”


Do you guys have girlfriends, are you engaged or married? Chun: “To serve the mission we are single but there isn’t a rule that says you can’t have a girlfriend.” So you can have a Peruvian girlfriend? Both: “Oh no” Nye: “Not in Peru but at home” Are you allowed to have a girlfriend outside of your religion? Nye: “You can. Like we said, none of the rules of our religion are obligatory. It depends on the individual. If you want to follow, you follow. If not, then you don’t really follow. You can´t say that I love this religion but I do ‘this’ (referring to something forbidden), it doesn’t really work that way.” Okay, here´s a question: What is your religious stance on masturbation? Nye: “It’s all about keeping yourself pure; in our religion we say that this is not appropriate and any man can overcome this through faith of our Lord Jesus Christ.” So in your religion the first time you ejaculate will be with your wife? Nye: “That and also when you’re sleeping. You know you have dreams that give you experiences like that. It’s just a natural psychological thing to happen.”

Elder Chun and Elder Nye on the job, picture from

mean we obviously don’t believe that you should just irresponsibly do things but it depends on the individual.” Unfortunately, it was 9:37pm and we had to terminate our interview with Nye and Chun because of a 9:30 curfew. A curfew that they said had only been previously broken once before at Christmas and by only three minutes. We would sincerely like to thank Elder Nye and Elder Chun for their time and

their cooperation during the interview, especially on the more difficult questions. We’d also like to wish them luck on the rest of their journey in Peru. Lastly, we’d like to apologize if they got into trouble for showing up around ten minutes after curfew. Unfortunately, Elder Chun and Elder Nye are no longer active in Huaraz. When you see them in Trujillo, say ¨hi¨ for us!

Chun: “But yeah… (he says while laughing)” Are you forbidden to wear condoms? Nye: “That also depends on the person; I


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Gastronomy by Trevor Eagleson

The Huaraz Telegraph July 2012

Food of the Andes and Peru You’ve possibly seen them in restaurant menus but what do they mean? That’s where we can hopefully help guide you through the wonders and delights of the local cuisine. Picante de Cuy (Guinea pig) - If you have owned a guinea pig as a pet you might want to avoid this barbequed guinea pig stew with aji panca, (a hot pepper sauce) and potatoes. For me it tastes like rabbit but others say chicken, make up your own mind if you can stomach the task. Ceviche – The national dish of Peru. Traditionally, pieces of raw fish marinated in lime juice, onions and aji limo (red pepper) but other varieties are also available. Lomo saltado – A stir fry with beef, red onions and tomatoes with soy sauce, vinegar and chilli that they accidently dropped some French fries in. Served with rice because there weren’t enough carbohydrates with the French fries. Pachamanca – Try if you get the chance. An Andean specialty for festivals or large family celebrations. Pachamanca is an assortment of meats, vegetables, beans and herbs slowly cooked underground on a bed of heated stones - delicious. Papa a la huancaina – Literally meaning Huancayo-style potatoes, papas a la huancaina is a popular starter in menu restaurants across Peru. Sliced boiled potatoes served with a very mild spicy cheese sauce, often served with lettuce, olives and a boiled egg. Papa rellena – Deep fried mashed potatoes stuffed with boiled egg, minced beef, onion, an olive and various spices. Tamales – Boiled corn with meat and cheese that is wrapped in a maize leaf (panca) and tied with a piece of string to hold it together. Ricos taMALes, who can argue with that? with a brief description of taste and texture, for me it just looks like fish eyes.

Peruvian Cheese We have a Belgian producing good quality coffee, a Dutchman making waffles and the American Ted, producing an excellent beer. Who is going to step in to save the Peruvian cheese market?

Ceviche with prawns

Olluquito con charqui - Olluco is a yellowish tuber domesticated by the Incas and is similar to the small Andean potato but with a distinct crunchy texture when cooked. Charqui is the technique employed in the Andean highlands to cure meat by salting, then dehydrating. The dish is a stew of finely diced ollucos with charqui pieces, served with white rice. Chocho (Tarwi) – Tarwi is a popular bean grown in the Andean regions of Ecuador, Peru and Bolivia which can produce an extraordinarily bitter taste if not left to soak in water for a day or two. High in protein it makes for a nice change in carbohydrate rich Peru. Ensalada de Chocho – A salad that includes the chocho bean, onion, hot pepper, Lemons, cilantro (coriander), parsley and toasted corn. Aji de gallina – A yellow chicken stew made with onion, milk, yellow peppers, crackers, pecan nuts, egg and boiled yellow potatoes. Yunca de gallina – A chicken and wheat soup from the province of Yungay. Charqui – Andean version of beef jerky, covered with salt and left to dry in the sun. If you order this in a restaurant expect it to be served with corn, onions, tomatoes and hot pepper. Chicharron de chancho – Fried pork.

Rubber-like, bland and tasteless are just a few of the words to describe the cheese in this country. I’ll be the first to admit that Peru has some excellent dishes and produce but unfortunately cheese and dairy products in general are not one of them. If anyone reading this knows someone in Europe that is about to travel to Huaraz please tell them to bring a decent block of cheese with them. Strong cheddar would be perfect. I will give them the money for it.


Mazamorra morada - Made from the native Peruvain purple corn, Mazamorra morada is a jelly like desert made with cloves, sugar and occasionaly mixed fruits and lime is added. It’s often served with rice pudding (arroz con leche). Cachitos – A horn shaped pastry filled with manjar blanco. A creamy sweet form of toffee butter. Mazamorra de calabaza – Literally meaning porridge of pumpkin. Mazamorra de calabaza is a dessert made with calabash (bottle gourd), its seeds, sugar, flour and milk. Lúcuma – Famous for its ice cream, milk shake or lúcuma juice. Lúcuma is a dry and starchy fruit with an orange-yellow flesh. The fruit is grown at altitudes above 1000m and is native to Peru although it’s now grown in parts of Chile. Picarones – My favorite Peruvian dessert. A doughnut like dessert made with squash and sweet potato and served with a syrup called chancaca.

Chifa – Derived from Mandarin meaning ‘to eat rice’ chifa is a fusion of Chinese and Peruvian food. If you’re getting tired of white rice, chifa is perfect.

Tamales wrapped in a maize leaf

Drinks Alcoholic drinks Chuchuwasi - It’s cheap, it gets you drunk and tastes good, what more do you want from an alcoholic drink? Made from a medicinal plant native to the Andean Sierra, chuchuwasi is a herby, syrupy, sweet liquor. Chicha de Jora or ‘beer of the Incas’ is an alcoholic beverage that is produced by fermenting various varieties of maize and herbs depending on the region, barley and cloves are also used in the fermenting process. Pisco – The national drink of Peru, made from grapes in the wine region of Peru. Pisco is often compared to brandy. It was developed during Spanish rule for a cheaper alternative to the native imported Spanish liquor known as Orujo. Note: Pisco is also made in Chile but don’t tell anyone, it’s a delicate subject. Pisco Sour – A cocktail made from Pisco, lime juice, egg white and sugar. Non-alcoholic drinks Chicha Morada – Chicha de Jora’s non-alcoholic cousin made from the Peruvian native purple corn. Inka Cola – Peru’s favorite bubble gum flavored soft drink. Try it once, you’ll hate it. Try it again and you’ll still hate it. Leche de Tigre – A soup-like drink made with the ingredients of ceviche. If the ceviche doesn’t make you reach for the Imodium this one might.

Quinoa – Grown in Ecuador, Bolivia, Colombia and Peru. Quinoa are the seeds of a plant in the chenopodium family which is known as a pseudoceral and as a good protein source. Cushuro alga – Only found in lakes around Huaraz at 3000m or more and sold at the market cushuro alga is a bacteria known as nostoc. Anyone willing to try this can you please write to food@


If you feel we’ve missed anything on this page, or if you’ve eaten some excellent street food that you would like to share with our readers or if you’d like to get in contact about hooking me up with a decent block of cheese please contact us at Chicha Morada


The Huaraz Telegraph July 2012

by Trevor Eagleson

Popular hikes


Santa Cruz – As you might have read in previous edtions, the Santa Cruz trek was recently destroyed by a large landslide. Luckily the people of Cashapampa have been working hard to create a new route. Starting at Cashapampa or Vaqueria the trek can be completed in three or four days and has stunning views of Taulliraju from Punta Union when the weather is clear. World famous, this stunning trek is the second most popular trek after the Inca Trail in Cusco. Alpamayo Circuit – This seven-eight day trek is considered to be one of the most spectacular treks in the region and with excellent views of the Nevado Alpamayo it’s easy to see why. The trek passes through Hualcayan and Wishcash with excellent views of Santa Cruz at Laguna Cullicocha (4650m) before passing through Paso Cullicocha (4850m) and Paso Osoruri (4750m). Leaving Osoruri you get the chance to walk around the scenic glacial lake of Jancarurish situated beneath the Alpamayo with nice views of Jancarurish 5780m, Tayapampa 5860m and Quitaraju 6254m. From Jancarurish the trek continues to the Safuna Lagoons which includes a

climb to the pass known as ‘Cara Cara’ at 4820m. From Safuna you continue to the Paso Pucajirca (4600m) pass and then down the valley to camp at Jancapampa (3600m) where you can see a large glacier. Ulta Trek – Lasting only two days and reaching the altitude of 4850m at the Punta Yanayacu pass the Ulta trek is conseridered to be an intermediate level trek. Olleros Chavin – A three day trek with spectaculair views which ends at Chavin de Huantar. Day one starts at the village of Canrey Chico walking to the base camp of Sacracancha at 4080m. Day two ascends to the Yanashalla pass where you can see nice views of various snowcovered peaks such as Umashraju, Huantsan and Rurec.

The Cordillera Huayhuash

The community owned Cordillera Huayhuash circuit boosts the World’s second highest tropical mountain, Yerupajá at 6634m. Avoid the mini-Huayhuash, as it

is a waste of money and you don’t actually enter the Huayhuash, just the outskirts. Day 1 begins in the small town of Llamac and ends at Laguna Yahuacocha after passing by the 4m long Cholla Cacti. Day two sets up past the Solteracocha Lake and includes the Punta Rondoy pass (4750m) with views of

Puscanturpo (5440m) and Pumarinri (5465m). Day 8 can consist of various routes ranging from 7-11 hours to reach Punta Tapuish. The traditional circuit heads past Quebrada Guanacpatay to view the glacier clad pyramid of Jullutahuarco (5450m). The trail continues parallel to a huge waterfall walking down to the Rio Huayllapa.

sightings are possible and a scenic route beside a stunning waterfall is taken. The trek is completed on day 10 with a short trek from Laguna Yahuacocha back to the starting point of Llamac.

Ninashanca (5607m).

Day 9, the penultimate day begins with a short hike to reach the Punta Tapuish pass for panoramic views of the southern part of the Cordillera Blanca. The trail then reaches Laguna Susucocha and continues to the excellent Punta Yaucha pass. The campsite at Laguna Yahuacocha is reach via the Quebrada Huacrish valley where more condor

***Note that different agencies or tour operators can offer different itineraries for each trek or tour mentioned in The Huaraz Telegraph.

Day 3 starts at Matacanha which includes many beautiful lakes and possible frequent condor sightings. The trail passes a metal cross erected in 2000 in honor of a Polish explorer who died there and ends at Laguna Mitacocha. Day 4 reaches, what is considered to be the most scenic lake on the trek, Laguna Carhuacocha. With the Carhuac pass (4650m) and excellent views of Siula Grande (6340m) if day 4 doesn’t raise the hairs on the back of your neck it’s time to head back to Huaraz. Day 5 continues across the Quebrada Carnicero to Punta Carnicero past a string of small lakes. After walking past Laguna Atocshaico, the campsite of day 5 Laguna Carnicero will appear. The Trek continues past Laguna Mitucocha to the top of Portachuelo de Huayhuash (4759m) and northwest to camp below Punta Cuyoc. On day 7 you reach Quebrada Guanacpatay via the highest point of the trek. You will see nice views of

Because The Cordillera Huayhuash is not a National Park, expect to pay around 160 Soles for ´protection fees´ to the local villagers during the trek.

Brasa Roja offers the best roasted chicken, pastas and much more. For hostel delivery call 043-427738. To be found on Luzuriaga (main street) nr. 915

Tourist Info

18 What Else you Should Know for a Pleasant Stay in Huaraz. Renting bicycles Check all equipment before agreeing to hire a bicycle from anyone. There are a lot of poor bikes for rent in Huaraz and there have been accidents involving tourists in recent years. You should always ask for a receipt when hiring a bike and you should expect to pay anywhere between S/.20-100 per day. The better quality bikes will be more expensive but it’s cheaper than crashing with a, poor quality bicycle and ending up spending a night in a hospital. Beware of drivers The driving in Peru is almost as bad as their tamales. Look both ways on a oneway-street. In any other country green

Huaraz Ultimate Frisbee

by Trevor Eagleson

means walk, in Huaraz it means look both ways and then walk but keep looking. If you want to see the full extent of poor Peruvian driving I suggest taking the panoramic front seat (otherwise known as ‘the death seat’) on your next bus journey. It’s little wonder that Peru has so many deaths on the road each year.

alley in front of the Plaza de Armas i-Peru offers excellent, honest and free tourist information. They won’t be trying to trick you into buying a tour or any other service like some others do. If you have some genuine questions about what to do and how to do it in the area this is the place to go. City maps are also available.

Changing Money

Touts Hanging Around the bus

You won’t get the best rates available in Huaraz and you will need to bring your passport. The editor recommends no bank in particular, but during lunch time, the cues aren´t as long as in the mornings. For Sterling I’d suggest holding onto them until you return to the UK because the rates here are terrible but if you simply have to change Sterling wait until you’re in Lima and do it there. i-Peru Tourist Information and Assistance Located at Pasaje Atusparia, the small tradition has grown of organizing and playing games every Friday, meeting at the California Café (jr 28 de Julio 562) at around 11:00am and playing until about 2:00pm. Since the beginning, the game has remained non-competitive and players of all abilities are welcome. Indeed, we have had world-class players join us and at the same time we have taught many travelers, tourists, and local the

Stations Reading this I presume you’ve already chosen your hostel or hotel, congratulations to those of you who made a reservation beforehand and ignored those waiting at the bus station to try to convince you to go to another hostel. They pick up a commission to send you to another hostel and a hostel that needs to send someone to the bus station at 6am probably isn’t going to be the greatest hostel in town. For those of you reading this that made there have been long-term players who hail from a variety of backgrounds. We have had many Peace-Corp volunteers, miners, mountain guides, local business owners (Alex Good, Charlie Good and Franco de la Puente), academics, healers and musicians who join the game for periods of a few months to several years. The ultimate tradition in Huaraz would

The Huaraz Telegraph July 2012 a reservation but instead followed the guy at the bus station to his commission gained hostel – shame on you. Beware of Dogs in Huaraz Why there are so many dogs wondering around Huaraz and their affect on the city is an article for another edition but rabies jabs are expensive so I’d suggest a cautious approach to the dogs in town. Some are friendly but one bite and you’re looking at a serious headache getting the rabies vaccine injections over a period of a month or so. Be extra careful when on a bicycle. They will chase you and try to bite your leg. From experience pretending to throw an imaginary rock does the trick of keeping them at bay but make sure you keep at eye on the road while doing it. If you do get bitten or fall off your bike fighting off the dogs, visit the San Pablo Clinic which is considered the most profesional one in Huaraz. for a lifetime. While the first games were played in Marian, the field we use now is in Huanchac (site of the famous boulders – about a fifteen minute taxi ride from the center of Huaraz) and shared transport is arranged from the California Café (many thanks to David – ‘el diablo’). The Café always provides the Frisbees and a cooler of bottled water.

Story sent in by Giancarlos

While the true origins of the game of ultimate Frisbee are sometimes debated, in Huaraz the first games were played in the spring of 2004 and were organized by Tim and Luisa Norris from the California Café. Tim arrived in Huaraz in 1999 to live and enjoy the majesty and mystery that is the Andes of Peru. Although he never played competitive ultimate in Oakland, California, he arrived as an avid pickup player and continually convinced tourists, other ex-pats, and locals to learn the game and play! Despite several years without a game, persistence finally paid off and the first games were played in May of 2004 in Marian (one of the villages just outside of Huaraz). These first games would have never happened without the help of Naresuan (the restaurant Siam de los Andes), Tyler Anderson (a well-loved seasonal mountain guide from the Oregon), three climbers from New York (Andugata, Shacshama, and Kripabindu), and Jonathan (another seasonal guide from Israel). It has now been nearly ten years since these first few games and a standing

Giancarlos standing on the right side, lifting his left arm.

joys of throwing a flying disc around. The game philosophy has always been to play to have fun, to enjoy one of the highest ultimate games played in the world (perhaps not just altitude), and take a break from whatever you might be doing to enjoy being outside for a moment. Throughout the story of Huaraz ultimate

have never continued without these people and we would like to express our gratitude – thank you – you know who you are! Yet perhaps the best part of the tradition is that we always have visitors from all corners of the world join us. Sometimes the conversations at ‘halftime break’ run into each other, cross in curious ways, and the connections made last

After the game we return to the California Café and there is always free chocho (ceviche de los Andes) and cancha (the original corn nuts) served as a token of our appreciation. We hope you will come to join us, enjoy the moment as much as you are able, and then pass the good word on to others so that this special tradition can continue.

The Huaraz Telegraph July 2012

Around Huaraz

Places of Interest Around Huaraz.

Caraz (2250m) Near the ending point of the Santa Cruz trek when it’s finally restored, Caraz lays only 1km from the pre Inca ruins of Tumshukaiko. 32km from the town is Paron Lake, the largest lake in the Cordillera Blanca which is surrounded by 15 snowy peaks. At 22km Canyon del Pato a rock formation formed by the movement of the Cordilleras Blanca and Negra is also within reach of Caraz.

We would like to guide you through some of the bigger villages around Huaraz. Most of them are easily accessible just by catching a combi. Carhuaz (2645m) Situated 35km north of Huaraz, Carhuaz is home to a vibrant Sunday market were rural inhabitants descend from the surrounding villages to sell various handicrafts, fruits and typical products from the region such as manjar blanco. They also have a festival at the end of September each year held in honor of the Patron Virgin of the Mercedes “Meche Mama”, activities include ´visperas´, bands and bullfights. The town is also famous for its local ice-cream.

Chiquian (3350m) Starting point of the Cordillera Huayhuash circuit, Chiquian is famous for its Santa Rosa de Lima festival held every August. The town hosts nice views of the snow covered Cara Cara and Huara Pasca of the Cordillera Blanca to the north and the black Nudo de Chonta to the west.

Yungay (2500m)

Recuay (3422m)

Completely destroyed by the earthquake of 1970 that rocked much of central Peru. killing 25,000 people in the town of Yungay alone, it is said that only 92 people survived in the town. The Peruvian government has since declared the location of the old town a national cemetery and forbidden excavation. With nice views of Huascaran, Yungay while lacking in tourist services has the best access to the Llanganuco Lakes.

A quiet colonial style town that possesses the mineral waters and thermal springs of Conococha, Ucuschaca, Pachacoto, Pumapampa, Burgos and Utuco. Located 10km south of Recuay, the small town of Catac is the ideal starting point for trips to see the Puya Raimondii plant, the largest flower in the world which grows at 4200m and can be found at the Huashta Punta pass on the Cordillera Negra.

Other places of interest

Huascaran National Park

Chavin archaeological site (Chavin de Huantar) – A 4 ½ hour drive from Huaraz with an entrance fee of S/. 11.

Contact Info, Lakes and Treks

Rataquenua lookout – If you look to the east you will see a large cross over looking Hauarz that is the Rataquenua lookout. To get there walk towards the cemetery and follow the road up hill. Be careful as people have been robbed here in the past, even taxis have caused problems. We suggest going to El Pinar instead, a mining village that has excellent views of Huaraz, to get there walk towards the trout farm and follow the signs to El Pinar. Wilcahuain– Located 8km north off Huaraz, Wilcahuain can be reached by bike, on foot, by car or by combi for S/. 1. If you do decide to go by bike, look out for the dogs on the way down. Monterrey – Thermal swimming pool located 6km from Huaraz, owned by a hotel with an entrance free of S/. 3.50. Combis take you to Monterrey for S/. 1 or you can use a taxi for around S/. 5. Chancos – A lot better than Monterrey, the Chancos hot springs and natural saunas are located 27km from Huaraz and there is also a climbing wall.


by Trevor Eagleson

Given protection status in 1975 by the Peruvian government had declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1985, the Huascaran National Park boosts some of the worlds most beautiful treks and lakes. Located in the Cordillera Blanca it is home to various flora, fauna, birds and animals including the Puya Raimondii, Cougar, the Jaguar, the South American Tapir, many species of humming birds including the Peruvian Piedtail and the Guanaco. Spanning over 340,000 hectors the Huascaran National Park is considered to be the highest tropical mountain range in the world with the Huascaran peak reaching the dizzy height of 6768m. Trekking can be enjoyed within the national park alone or with the help of an agency, whichever you decide is best suited for your needs and desires. When trekking without the help of an agency you have the sole responsibility to ensure the national park is left in the same condition when you leave as when you arrived. Preserving this vast region for future generations of plant, animal, bird and human to enjoy is of utmost importance. If you compete a trek or activity with an agency and you notice they are not behaving responsibly in any way towards the environment please report them to the National Park, with your help we can ensure the Huascaran National Park flourishes for many years to come. One day excursions within the Huascaran National Park requires an entrance fee of S/. 5, with a fee of S/. 65 for an overnight stay between one night to when you decide to leave. To contact the National Park you can call them at 422086, or visit their office on 555 Jr. Federico Sal y Rosas, Belén in Huaraz.

Llanganuco Lakes At 3800m the lakes of Chinancocha and Orconcocha are situated within the Huascaran National Park and are fed by the melting snow of the mountains Huascaran, Huandoy, Pisco, Yanapaccha, and Chopicalqui. Located just 25km from Yungay the Llanganuco Lakes can be reached with a 45 minute car journey.

Laguna 69 Starting at Cebollapampa and widely considered to be the most beautiful lake in the area and best one day trek in the Huascaran National Park. The laguna 69 trek is often used to get better accustomed to the altitude before setting out for longer, higher excursions.

Laguna Churup Public or private transportation takes you to the small town of Pitec or Llupa to start the trek. Quite a difficult trek at times, to get to what is considered to be one of the least attractive popular lakes in the area. With that said, it will not be as busy as some of the other lakes so it can make for a nice, quieter alternative trek.

Pastoruri Glacier Are we there yet? Are we there yet? The receding ice caps, an article for another edition. I’m sure this was once an even more spectacular sight than it is now as you’ll be walking for hundreds of metres of where the glacier once stood, to get to what is left. A bumpy ride for 4 ½ hours brings you to the starting point of the hike to the glacier, which should take approximately one hour. Only possible with tour agency.

Destination Lima


by Timmy O´Toole

Few travellers spend the time to fully

check out this fascinating and at times hectic city but those who do take the time to discover the wonders of Lima, its fantastic food, the many districts and its people are rarely disappointed. With a population of nearly 9 million Lima ranks as South America’s forth largest city but step into the central park near the National Stadium and you’d never guess. Below we have listed some of the attractions Lima has to help you build your itinerary to have a long and enjoyable stay in Peru’s crazy capital city.

Barranco – My favourite district in Lima. Other than the recently opened Starbucks just off the main plaza you won’t find all the American brand names here that are so prolific in neighboring Miraflores, which is why I like it so much. A quite tranquil district by day compared to the rest of Lima which explodes at night during the weekend. With most bars and discos concentrated on one street just off the main Plaza, Barranco makes for the perfect weekend pub crawl.

scription about what Lima has to offer on the theater front visit The site is currently under reconstruction but they still have a lot of very good information about Lima in general.

The Zoo – Located near Plaza San Miguel in west Lima (take a combi to La Marina) the Parque de las Leyendas zoo

Parque de la Reserva (Parque de las Aguas) – Home to the spectacular array of water fountains which look even more

For all up to date information on theater listings and live music performances around Lima you can also check out El Comercio on Mondays. Parks

Historic Center of Lima – No visit to Lima would be complete without visiting the 1988 UNESCO listed world heritage site of the historic center of Lima which includes the colonial architecture monuments of The Cathedral, the Monastery of San Francisco, the Plaza Major and the Palace of Torre Tagle. If you’re into churches this is one place you simply must visit. The historic center of Lima boosts some of the most impressive churches in South America. The Iglesia de Santo Domingo, Iglesia de San Pedro and Iglesia de San Afustin adds to the already impressive array of architecture. Miraflores – Walking around Miraflores it feels like you could be walking around a small city in America or Europe. With McDonalds, Burger King, Pizza Hut and Starbucks, Miraflores has most of the brand names you will be familiar with. Added to this is an array of large supermarkets, cinemas, bars, excellent restaurants, expensive clothing stores. There is also the famous Larcomar Mall, overlooking the ocean offering tenpin bowling. It’s easy to see why most tourists flock to this metropolitan district with almost all the comforts of home available.

The Huaraz Telegraph July 2012 Parque de la Exposicion – One of the largest parks in Lima spanning from The National Stadium near Movil Tours terminal on Paseo de la Republica through Wilson, Colon and 28th de Juilo. Home of the Museum of Art, Moorish pavilion and a small pond where possibly the only ducks in Lima can be found outside of the Chinese restaurants in Chinatown, the park is an excellent getaway from the hustle and bustle of the city. It can get quite busy at weekends but during the week in the mornings or early afternoon are the perfect times to visit if you’re in seek of some peace and quiet. Around Lima Pachacamac – Located around 35km southeast of Lima, Pachacamac is a large archaeological complex containing various palaces and at least 17 pyramids dated back as early as 200AD. Unfortunately some of the ruins have been damaged over the years, most notably by the heavy El Niño rains, but it’s still worth a day visit from Lima.

boosts a nice variety of birds and animals from the three major geographical regions of Peru including the tucan, sloths, gallito de la roca (cock of the rock), spectacled bear, condor and armadillos. Theater – As we know our readers are of a certain class your first question when you enter a new city is always going to be ‘where can I find a decent theater?’, don’t worry we’re here to help you. La Tarumba Teatro in Miraflores combines theater, circus and music to form an interesting fusion of art forms. For an in-depth de-

impressive as night falls. As florescent lights engulf the nights sky. It’s currently open from 4pm-11pm, Wednesday – Sunday and is located between Paseo de la Republica and Arequipa Avenue which covers an area of 8 hectors and charges an entrance fee of S/. 4. ‘The Magic Water Tour’, as it is known is currently the world record holder for the largest fountain complex in the world, consisting of 13 distinct fountains and at a cost13 million U.S.D to create in 2007 we’ll forgive them for their minimal entrance fee.

The Tumi Hotel offers not only three star class nights, it also has a bar, cafe and a restaurant where all visitors of Huaraz are welcome. New: El Tumi Spa: massage, jacuzzi, facial and body treatments. Everything you need after a exhausting hike or climb.

Puruchuco – A massive Inca cemetery located about 15km from the Lima city center where around 2000 well preserved mummy bundles were unearthed in 2002. Chaclacayo – A perfect day trip from Lima, at 660m above sea level while most of the of the city is covered in a layer of costal fog the small village of Chaclacayo is often basked in pleasant sunshine. Activities include horseback riding with Parque Central one of the main attractions. Located 27km from the center of Lima on the valley of the Rimac River and easily accessible from the city by bus.

The Huaraz Telegraph July 2012

Destination Huanchaco

WHY YOU SHOULD VISIT HUANCHACO! A surfing paradise, a quiet beach with exciting nightlife, and an ancient traditional culture are waiting for you! Written by: O. Gabriel Prieto, Ph.D Candidate Department of Anthropology Yale University. Pictures by: Angiolina Abugattas

ingredients with recipes taken from overseas traditions. For coffee lovers, there is a number of really good coffee places in downtown Trujillo. In one of the malls within the city you will also find a Starbucks!

Huanchaco is a fishing village and beach resort located nearby Trujillo the largest city in Peru north of Lima. Let me tell you first a bit about this amazing city. It was founded by the Spanish back in the 16th century and today is inhabited by approximately one million people. Trujillo is a modern city that has comfortable commodities for tourists. You can find cheap and clean hostels or backpacker

There are a number of tourist attractions within the city of Trujillo. Old town or locally known as “El Centro” is where you will find old Spanish houses, French style houses (Art Nouveau), 16th century churches and many museums, including the Toy Museum, the Anthropo logical Museum of the National University and the APRA political party museum, an innovative exhibition that shows part of Peruvian’s

houses as well as luxurious five stars hotels. Public (basically shuttles and buses) and private transportation (cabs, private shuttles, car rentals) are cheap and secure. Downtown is secure but it is recommended to take care of your stuff. Food is not an exemption, in Trujillo you can find cheap wraps, hamburgers, Italian food, good wines, homemade beers and of course local cuisine. You can also find new fusion food that combines local

early republican and modern political development. During the nights you have a number of options: lounges, bars, sport bars and discos. Finally, there are a couple of archaeological monuments that you do not want to miss. The pyramid of the Sun and Moon located 15 minutes by car from downtown Trujillo and Chan Chan on the highway that connects Trujillo and Huanchaco. Huanchaco is only 15 minutes by bus from


Trujillo and there are hundreds of tourists around the beach, mostly surfers that spend almost all day in the ocean. In Huanchaco

ly known as “Caballitos de Totora.” They’re also still using the stars and the moon to predict tides and for the type of fish that

you will find everything from backpacker hostels to three star hotels.

they will catch that day. They also respect the environment and the marine resources in danger.

Food in town is simply amazing. A number of Europeans and Americans have settled in Huanchaco and opened many different alternatives for food lovers. In Huanchaco you will also find organic food and fair trade coffee, and every Saturday there is a Farmers Market nearby the old pier. Bars and lounges are everywhere and you will find the best choice for your preferences. Of course you can get ceviche and seafood made by local people which makes this little village famous. Huanchaco also has ATMs, money exchange houses, bus ticket places and if you are coming by plane there is a modern airport south east of the beach. Along the beach you will find “Surfing Schools” where you can get surfing lessons, a sport practiced by locals for at least 4000 years. The local fishermen and shell gatherers from Huanchaco are a traditional ethnic group surviving since Pre-Hispanic times. They are still using raft made of reed, local-

Only three minutes by car from Huanchaco or a 20 minutes walk along the beach is the small archaeological site of “Pampas Gramalote” an ancient fishing village where archaeologist have found the earliest settlement of the Huanchaco ethnic group. Amazingly, these people based their diet on blue shark, yes, blue shark and other marine resources. They made their houses with beach stones and corals. This place will be open by the end of July for tourism, but you can contact the author of this article for guided visits to the site. Nearby the archaeological site there is a local artist who makes beautiful small artisans based on dry gourds. If you are considering bringing gifts for family and friends, this is a convenient choice. All of this and much more is waiting for you in Huanchaco! See you there!


22 If Lima isn’t your next destination after Huaraz, Trujillo and Huanchaco probably will be and for good reason. The perfect mix of large city, small beach town and archaeological site makes for the perfect stopover. Trujillo – With a population of around 900,000 people Trujillo ranks as Peru’s second most populous city. It’s home to the Chimu city of Chan Chan and the colonial streets of old Trujillo. The Plaza de Armas has the huge freedom monument which was erected in 1929 to celebrate Trujillo’s independence in 1820 and in my opinion the nicest Cathedral in Peru, although opening times are erratic. Museums – A couple of blocks from the Plaza de Armas you will find the interesting Museo del Juguete (Toy Museum) with a vast array of toys dated from the 19th and 20th centuries. The Museo Huacas de Moche (Museum of Moche Temples) is located at the Temple of the Moon and shows the recent archaeological discoveries of the Moche ceremonial center. Created by the painter Gerardo Chavez the Museo de Arte Moderno (Museum of Modern Art) displays work of established foreign and national artists and is located on Semirustica El Bosque.

Chan Chan (picture by Angiolina Abugattas)

Ripley Mall – Between the old colonial streets of Trujillo, the ancient archaeological site of Chan Chan and the laid back beaches of Huanchaco, Trujillo enters the new world with this gigantic mall possessing just about everything you may desire. A huge supermarket with a wine section almost as big as the ‘supermarkets’ in Huaraz (which is best avoided at weekends unless you like waiting in a

queue for an hour), shoe stores, clothes, electrical equipment… the list goes on and on until you finally give into temptation and visit one of the many junk food options in the large food court. Huanchaco – Just 12km from Trujillo, (S/. 13 by taxi or S/. 1.50 by comi) for me a must visit destination on the Peruvian ‘gringo trail’. Huanchaco is simply beautiful. Sit back and relax with a cold beer in one of the many restaurants overlooking the seafront as you indulge yourself with some excellent seafood. The ceviche being an extra special speciality here. Chan Chan – Declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1986 Chan Chan is an ancient archaeological city constructed by the kingdom of the Chimú sometime in the late first century AD or early second century AD which survived until the conquest of the Incas in 1470 AD. Chan Chan covers an area of 20km² which makes it the largest adobe city in the world. Unfortunately El Niño brought storms and floods that have severely damaged the mud walls of the city. Looters and earthquakes have also had their adverse affects on the ancient city but it’s still makes for an interesting visit. Otuzco – Just two hours from Trujillo with an elevation of 2630m this makes for a spectacular day trip. Other than the cobblestone streets the town itself isn’t that special but what makes this journey worth while are the views as you ascend from sea level up to the middle of the Andeans in such a short time. Puerto Chicama – This place doesn’t have the facilities of Huanchaco, nor the same vibe but what it lacks in character it makes up for in giant waves. Die-hard surfers grab your broads because the waves here can reach an impressive 2m in height and travel for an astonishing 2km when conditions are right. Usually between April and June but don’t blame us if you go there this month to find tranquil swimming pool like conditions. Bring a wetsuit, the water will be cold! Sun and Moon Temples – This major archaeological site was built at the time

“Surf Hostel Meri with Yenth Ccora Surfboards in front of the surf points single, double, twin and dorm rooms with hot water wifi, guest kitchen, car parking, camping cafe with home made cakes and special coffees surf school & surf shop offering; surf lessons, board rental, board repair and surf gear such as leashes, fins, grips, wetsuits, wax custom-made surfboards by local shaper Yenth Ccora yoga classes handcrafts & beachwear boutique Avenida La Rivera 720, Huanchaco Tel: 044 462264,”

of the Moche culture (100 BC-650 AD), just east of a prominent freestanding hill, the Cerro Blanco (White Mountain), and next to a small tributary of the Moche River. It occupies a central location within the extensive Moche Valley. The complex

The Huaraz Telegraph July 2012 la Luna, is oriented roughly 20 degrees northeast. Although the earlier history of the building remains a riddle, it was probably begun early during the Moche period.

Fisherman in action in the early morning (picture by Elias Rodrich Calderon)

sits about three miles inland southeast of the modern city of Trujillo and is considered by many scholars to be the former capital of the Moche State. The complex is dominated by two huge adobe brick buildings: the Pyramid of the Sun, or Huaca del Sol, and the artificial platform called Huaca de la Luna, or Temple of the Moon. On the quarter-mile-wide, open plain between them, researchers have found many graves but most of them are looted. They have also found evidence of large scale manufacturing covered by a layer of sediment up to 10 feet thick. A considerable number of administrators, religious, and manufacturing specialists must have been living at this great prehispanic settlement. Like most prehispanic sites on the coast, it is located so as not to usurp agricultural land and in a good position to acquire food, building material and other resources. The Huaca del Sol – Despite its history of destruction during the colonial period, the stepped pyramid called Huaca del Sol still measures 1,250 feet in length and towers 135 feet above the surrounding plain. This makes it the tallest adobe structure of the Americas. lt is calculated that around 50 million sun-dried, mud bricks (or “adobes”), were used in its construction. Like its counterpart on the opposite side of the plain, the Huaca de

The enormous cut on the west face was made back in 1602 by ambitious Spaniards looking for treasure. They intentionally diverted the small Santa Catalina River, which washed away more than half the huaca. In colonial times, it was common practice to loot prehispanic sites in search of gold, and often such looting was organized by formal companies. This stepped pyramid is made up of four major platforms that rise from the northeast, where an access ramp may have stood. Towards the southwest there is a fourth, lower and narrower platform. Unlike later monumental architecture, it is entirely made up of sun-dried adobe bricks. The sections, or panels, in which the bricks were laid are clearly visible in the badly-eroded eastern side. Many of the adobes have their original marks, such as imprints of hands, feet, dots, crosses, etc. These marks have been interpreted by researchers as accounting tools to distinguish different groups of brick manufacturers, which thus facilitated tracking the payment of “taxes”. The name “Huaca del Sol” is really a misnomer, as there is no evidence to connect the building with any solar cult. There are, however, no indications as to the original name of the site, which must have been in the now-extinct Muchik language, which was spoken in the region in the Fifteenth Century.

The Huaraz Telegraph July 2012 The Huaca de la Luna Overlooking the Pyramid of the Sun lies the Pyramid or Temple of the Moon, another major component of the urban and ceremonial center of the prehispanic settlement of Moche. Ongoing excavations by Peruvian and foreign scholars are revealing the complexity of this fascinating structure. Three platforms and four open courts or plazas take up most of the assemblage, which is built up against the lower slopes of the Cerro Blanco, the White Mountain. Overall, the site measures 950 feet from north to south and 690 feet from east to west. Treasure hunters also dug impressive tunnels into its eastern flank and inadvertently exposed beautiful polychrome reliefs, sadly now destroyed. Many Moche burials, some probably dedicatory but others as late as Chimú (about 11001470 AD), have been excavated inside

Trujillo/Huanchaco fine example of Moche mural decorations found at La Luna was the mural referred to above, which depicts “The Rebellion of the Artifacts” Large-scale human sacrifice at Huaca de la Luna became evident when archaeologists uncovered the remains of at least 34 sacrificed adult male individuals in the soft clay of the southeastern court at the foot of the mountain. They had been bound and judging by the type of wounds that had been inflicted were probably captured in battle. The sacrifice represents a single ritual event linked by archaeologist Steve Bourget to a season of torrential rains caused by an extreme case of the maritime El Niño phenomenon, which strikes the coast of South America at irregular intervals and which may have caused the final abandonment of this site. The open space between the two pyra-

Tourists visiting the famous Huaca de la Luna (picture by Angiolina Abugattas)

the otherwise massive adobe platform and have yielded many artifacts, such as elaborate ceramics and metal headgear. Very tall and wide walls delimit each of the four courts, some of the which have narrow cane and pole roofs running along the sides. Access from one sector of the site to another was clearly channeled down corridors and through narrow entrances. Painted reliefs pertaining to different construction phases, at least four of which have been identified so far, have been located in several of the platforms and plazas. For example, the head of the “degollador” or sacrificer, a motif also found at the site of EL BRUJO, decorates the walls of platform I in the southwest corner of the site. Another very

mids has recently been found to have been an area of intense manufacturing activity as well as an area of high population density. Ceramic workshops and large-scale maize-beer production are evidence. Intensive textile production and metalworking may also have taken place there as well. The highly specialized groups of workers in charge of these activities were probably subservient to the high-ranking individuals in charge of the administration of both the ceremonies that took place at that site and the prosecution of wars. Text of Sun and Moon Temples by Inkanatura Travel. or call +5112035000 (Lima).


Contact the Way Inn Lodge: (+51) 943 466 219

The Huaraz Telegraph wishes Café Café 13 Buhos all the best with their new adventure!

A new dawn breaks at 13 Buhos as the old bar makes way for a new café in Parque de Ginebra. No more dancing on the bar as the new café will have a more relaxed atmosphere with friendlier opening hours for the early birds. The old 13 Buhos bar closed its door on Saturday July 9th with the new café opening on Friday 22nd. Above are a couple of the pictures from the closing night at 13 Buhos with Lucho saluding the end of an era with his girlfriend Hélène. Below a picture of the clam from the morning after, moments before the iconic 13 Buhos sign was brought down and moved to its new home in Parque de Ginebra. To the right, a few pictures of the new opening of the renamed Café Café 13 Buhos. The spacious café offers a new alternative from the old bar with all the regular things you’d expect from a café available.

POKER! Every Thursday from 7pm, Texas Hold ‘em!!

Menu twice a day from only 8 soles! Opening hours: Lunch 12:30 – 15:30 Dinner 19:00 – 23:00 (2nd floor)


Located near ´Casa de Guias´ and in the Parque Ginebra.

The Huaraz Telegraph July edition 2012  

Fourth edition of The Huaraz Telegraph with an interview with Lonely Planet´s author Kevin Raub and a visit of Editor Rex Broekman to the lo...

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