THE HUARAZ TELEGRAPH Made in Huaraz
Movie Climas filmed near Huaraz Unfortunately Peruvians are not interested in Peruvian-made movies
Card-skimming in Huanchaco
page 4 The ¨Climas¨ crew shooting the movie with majestic towering mountains in the background
page 20 Think twice before withdrawing money in Huanchaco
The return to ´Shawshank´ South African with HIV in local prison claims he should have been released already
The Huaraz Telegraph is back in action!
The Huaraz Telegraph celebrates its first anniversary After a short break, The Huaraz Telegraph is back in action with the presses rolling to bring you interesting stories, appealing interviews and all the necessary information to make your living or stay in Huaraz or Huanchaco a remarkable highlight. See page 3 for more information
page 6 The Huaraz Telegraph went back into the local penitentiary setting up an interview with its only foreign convict
THT in Huanchaco
Cycling for orphans
Nando Padrós is eight years from home
The hike is not worth risking your valuables
Like last year we´re available in Huanchaco
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The Huaraz Telegraph freely available! Apart from i-Perú, cafés and many restaurants, The Huaraz Telegraph is also available for free at the following hostels and hotels in Huaraz. The Huaraz Telegraph does not recommend any hostel in particular as we are completely neutral.
The Huaraz Telegraph APRIL 2013 A warm welcome from the editor.
Welcome to Huaraz, the city that is considered to be the Peruvian Switzerland because of its towering snow-capped mountains. This paper will provide you with all the necessary information you need to make your stay enjoyable and unforgettable.There are few English papers in circulation in Peru and we at The Huaraz Telegraph are confident that the following twenty-four pages are full of useful information and interesting interviews. We also have a thought-provoking back page which includes an interactive wall, a Sudoku puzzle and of course some jokes. This combination makes The Huaraz Telegraph an important addition to your information pack during your stay in Huaraz. The keyword for The Huaraz Telegraph this year is interaction. We would like you to participate and share your thoughts on our St!ck !t wall on the back page. We also have a Facebook page where you can leave comments and suggestions, and “Like” us. You can also email us with interesting items, suggestions or improvements etc. Why don’t you write an article, create your own poem or share your mountaineering or travelling experiences with the other readers? You could write the headlines, keep our readers informed about what is happening in Huaraz – the hottest places to visit, the best places to eat and sleep. I would like to personally thank our sponsors who make it possible to distribute this free newspaper. I would like to ask you to consider using as many of them as possible while you´re enjoying your stay in Huaraz; this will not only confirm their belief in this project, it will guarantee the survival of The Huaraz Telegraph. We want to be here for a long time so so everyone can enjoy it for years to come. The Huaraz Telegraph has been running for over a year now and all our previous editions are still available online. Please visit our website www.thehuaraztelegraph.com or www.issuu.com and download some very entertaining and informative articles. I hope you will enjoy the city and surroundings of Huaraz and hopefully I will soon be welcoming you as a contributing author to The Huaraz Telegraph. Kind regards Rex Broekman Editor and founder of The Huaraz Telegraph Terms and conditions St!ck !t Interactive Wall (back page) The Huaraz Telegraph reserves the right to reject any advertisement, message or photo which does not fit within theThe Huaraz Telegraph publication specifications. Términos y condiciones Muro Interactivo (contra caratula) The Telegraph Huaraz se reserva el derecho de rechazar cualquier anuncio, mensaje o foto que no se adapta a las normas estéticas y sociales establecidas por la Dirección del The Huaraz Telegraph. More information / más información: firstname.lastname@example.org
The Telegraph® is a registered Trademark at INDECOPI. All current and previous articles are owned and claimed by The Huaraz Telegraph and may not be reproduced by any means without written permission from The Telegraph®. General Copyright on all Contents, Composition & Design by The Huaraz Telegraph, Huaraz, Perú - © 2012 – 2013. Hecho el deposito legal: 2013-04791
The Huaraz Telegraph APRIL 2013
Entrance tickets PNH unchanged and danger at the Rataquenua Cross Since our last edition of The Huaraz Telegraph we have been busy. While others went on their summer vacation we collected some local news stories. Here is a quick round-up of what has happened in the past few months. Entrance ticket fees for Huascarán National Park (PNH) remain unchanged Rumours reached the office of The Huaraz Telegraph that the Servicio Nacional de Áreas Naturales Protegidas por el Estado (better known as SERNANP) would raise the entrance prices for the National Park Huascarán. Martin Salvador who is chief in charge at the
The Huaraz Telegraph The office of SERNANP can be found on Federico Sal y Rosas nr. 555 in Huaraz
PNH in Huaraz provided The Huaraz Telegraph with the following interesting information: “There are proposals yes, you are correct but these proposals have to be examined first and later on be approved. We are talking about a process that will take at least two years or so. They [SERNANP in Lima] are doing studies but until now there are no reports of any changes. The current entrance prices for the National Park are five soles for a day ticket [conventional tours or day hikes such as Laguna Churup or Laguna 69] and 65 soles for a monthly
Brief Local News notification in The Huaraz Telegraph: “Rataquenua lookout. If you look to the east you will see a large cross over looking Huaraz; that is the Rataquenua lookout. To get there walk towards the cemetery and follow the road uphill. Be careful as people have been robbed here in the past, even taxis have encountered problems. We suggest going to El Pinar instead, a mining village that has excellent views of Huaraz. To get there, walk towards the trout farm and follow the signs to El Pinar.¨ Unfortunately not much has changed. We have been informed by the head of the Tourist Police in Huaraz, Robinzon Marino Tinoco Ramirez: “Between the end of December and the middle of January there have been at least four reported robberies. I would like to stress that no one should go there! We have been doing surveillance but without results. We do have a composite sketch here in our office but again, this perpetrator hasn’t been found yet.” The Huaraz Telegraph seriously questions whether going there with a visible police car will lead to the arrest of this unidentified person. The editor offered to go himself to Rataquenua accompanied by one of the male members of the Tourist Police wearing plainclothes trying to catch the guy. This offer was first enthusiastically applauded by the Tourist Police, but later denied for unknown reasons. The population of Huaraz keeps growing every year On June 30th 2012 the world population was calculated at seven billion people distributed over 227 countries. Within Peru there are 30,136,000 people in 195 provinces and 1,838 districts. In 1993 (according to munihuaraz.gob.pe/publica/Plan_preven_I.pdf) Huaraz and the Independencia District counted 66,888 inhabitants, in 2007 Huaraz calculated 119,447 people according to the I.N.E.I.
The Huaraz Telegraph The location of the Rataquenua lookout (A) on Google Maps
ticket. This is for adventure tourism. I can confirm that the entrance tickets will not change this year.” The Huaraz Telegraph underlines that it remains a bit sour for tourists who stay overnight at any of the lakes and have to pay 60 soles more per person while also sleeping in a tent. Rataquenua Cross still a no-go area! Previously you could read the following
(National Institute of Statistics and Computer science). In 2011 Huaraz had no less than 131,377 inhabitants according to the I.N.E.I and the Municipality of Huaraz. The population of Ancash is growing on an annual basis of 2.61%. Ancash has 1,129,391 inhabitants in total and interestingly, in 2012 there were more women then men living in Huaraz. Read further on page 18.
The Huaraz Telegraph celebrates its first anniversary!
Looking back at the beginning of The Huaraz Telegraph I am so glad I gave it a go. Though this paper is not the only English newspaper in Peru, I still come across many people that are surprised to find out that Huaraz has its own English newspaper.
Constructive criticism has made this paper better over time, and now it is even more interactive than before. The Huaraz Telegraph has been criticized in the past, but I know my place very well; I am an amateur, and proud of it. Previously I had neither the experience nor any clue how to make a newspaper, and on revision I still believe we did the best we could. Now it’s time to take steps to make The Huaraz Telegraph a household newspaper. I apologize for all the grammar and spelling mistakes made to date, but with the help of more proofreaders we should be able to minimize the errors, and with the help of enthusiastic volunteers, this paper will look more professional than ever. One of the improvements will be our full-colour middle page where businesses can now advertise themselves to public in the best possible way. Last year I had dinner with one of Lonely Planet’s authors in Huaraz and this young man, Mr Raub, told me which places were under consideration for not being included in the newest edition of the book that is called by some The Holy Bible of Travelling. When the book comes out, we will have an evaluation of the tourist industry in Huaraz. What is the book’s opinion about the city, have things improved, or have things got worse? Which businesses have been left out of the book? A new item in this year’s Telegraph will be our interaction with the readers as mentioned before on page two. Every month we will interview a random tourist, asking them to give their opinion on tourism in Huaraz. What are they here for and which places do they recommend our readers visit? We kick off with Fernando Padrós (see pages 14 and 15). Subsequent to the tourists’ interviews, we will be giving the word to an expat living in Huaraz. Ever wondered what it is like to leave everything you love and own behind and move to the place that was founded by San Sebastian de Huaraz? In this first edition, Sabine Honing from The Netherlands will give the lowdown on her life in Huaraz (see pages 10 and 11). On this year’s back page readers can find The Huaraz Telegraph´s noticeboard called St!ck-!t, for contributions from tourists, residents, students or businesses – everyone has the chance to share and communicate. This could be
anything from a logo to a love declaration. Businesses now have the ability to announce events, promotions or even changes to their menus. Are you trying to sell your tent or hiking boots, or are you looking for a cheaper room to rent? Use our message board, and with a bit of luck you’ll soon be connected to the person that can help you out. As in the previous year, The Huaraz Telegraph is freely available thanks to our much appreciated sponsors that believe in promoting their businesses to our readers. At The Huaraz Telegraph we try to be as creative and innovative as possible, but we can only achieve this with the help of our readers. Remember, we are always looking for writers, poets or people who would like to share their adventures in the mountains or city. This keeps the paper fresh and interesting. That said, last year I was asked many times why some articles were repeated in The Huaraz Telegraph. The answer is simple. The Huaraz Telegraph has three types of readers. First, there are the students of the various language centres in town who study English. For them the newspaper offers a great opportunity to improve their English, while reading something about Huaraz and its surroundings. Then we have the expats that live in Huaraz; for them we should have the surprise effect. Finally we have the tourists that visit Huaraz and for them we mainly make the newspaper. There are new tourists every month and for them we simply have to repeat the tourist information articles. Maybe not interesting for the expats living in Huaraz, but that’s why we have had interesting articles previous year such as Emolientes, Gringo in Jail, Volunteering in Huaraz and the story about Bricheras, which may have been controversial. As well as the tourist information pages, there are advertorials; pages paid for by the advertiser. The Sierra Andina Tap Room and the Mountain Guide article of Casa de Guias were two examples of businesses that predicted the great benefit of paying for part of a page with useful information that highlights the trade or services they offer. For those who want to spread the word, The Huaraz Telegraph is available for free at hostels and hotels (see page two for the complete list), cafés in Huaraz, i-Peru, the language centres, Casa de Guias, Centro de Idiomas Unasam, Peruano Canadiense, the Tourist Police and the office of SERNANP which represents the National Park Huascarán in Huaraz. Enjoy! The editor
The Huaraz Telegraph APRIL 2013
Movie Climas filmed near Huaraz but Peruvians are not interested in Peruvian-made movies
Back in 2012, while we were preparing the September edition of The Huaraz Telegraph, we were informed that a crew was shooting a movie locally, and that it might make for an interesting article. So we decided to do some digging into the Peruvian cinema/ movie industry. We wanted to find out why Enrica Pérez Matos (director of Climas) chose Huaraz as the location for part of her movie so we met up with her to find out. First though, let us shed a little light on the history, future and quality of Peruvianmade films. In early 2011, Nathan Paluck published a list of the top 10 must-see Peruvianmade movies on livinginperu.com. He stated the following: “Terrorism, domestic abuse, corruption, racism and homophobia. Welcome to Peruvian cinema. But though Peru’s best films often focus on the country’s harsher realities, don’t let that scare you away.” Luis Felipe Gamarra, writing for the Peruvian national newspaper El Comercio back in 2010, said of Peru’s film industry: “It’s hard to turn a profit, but there’s a growing demand.” Viewer numbers have steadily risen between 7 and 10% since 1998. Livinginperu.com also says directors and producers in the film industry make little to no profit at all. The average cost of making a movie in Peru is about $300,000. To recover the investment through box office sales the movie has to be seen by almost 350,000 people; hence, the more expensive the movie, the greater the number of viewers required. The problem here is that Peruvians are not interested in watching Peruvian-made movies: only 760,000 people attended Peruvian films in 2009. This represents only 5% of a 20-million strong population – as reported in a book on Peru’s film industry by Nathalie Hendrickx.
However, as livinginperu.com states, there are solutions. Peruvian movie producers can apply for the National Film Board’s (DICINE) feature film award which can provide up to $168,000 of funding. The remaining monies could be gained from Ibermedia, the World Cinema Fund Hubert Bals Fund, and the Cannes Cinefundation with donations of $50,000 to $120,000 available. According to www.elpirata.pe, El Guachimán – the most successful Peruvian movie of 2010 – brought in only $273,642. This is followed by Bolero de Noche with $128,128; Malas Intenciones with $89,011; El Inca, la Boba y el Hijo del Ladrón with only $13,955; and Y si te ví no me acuerdo with $6,173. Collectively, box office
takings for the six most successful movies of 2011 did not even rise above half a million dollars. In the US movies cost roughly around $150,000,000 to produce, and their profits are equally immense; sometimes ten times production costs. Peruvian cinema was introduced in Iquitos in 1932 by Antonio Wong Rengifo. At this time the national rubber industry was booming, bringing with it foreigners who possessed the technology and knowledge for film-making. This combination produced a unique filmography style different to that found in Lima. In Lima, the first Peruvian sound film was Alberto Santana’s Resaca, which was released in 1934. This was followed by another sound film titled Cosas de la vida in 1934. The first all-talking picture, Buscando Olvido, was released in 1936. More recently, some bestselling novels by Peruvian author and talk-show host Jaime Bayly, including No se lo Digas a Nadie and La Mujer de mi Hermano, have been made into movies. In fact, Francisco Jose Lombardi, perhaps the most influencial Peruvian filmmaker of recent years, has made most of his films from adaptations of important Peruvian novels. Peru produced the first animated 3D film in Latin America, Piratas en el Callao. Set in the historical port city of Callao – which during colonial times had to be defended against attacks by Dutch and British privateers seeking to undercut Spain’s trade with its colonies – the film was produced by the Peruvian company Alpamayo Entertainment, which also made the 3D movie Dragones: Destino
The Huaraz Telegraph A look at the set of the movie Climas
de Fuego the following year. In February 2006 Madeinusa was produced as a joint venture between Peru and Spain. Directed by Claudia Llosa (niece of the Peruvian writer Mario Vargas Llosa and the film director Luis Llosa), the film was set in an imaginary Andean village and describes the stagnating life of Madeinusa played by Magaly Solier, as well as the traumas of post-civil war Peru. Llosa won an award at the Rotterdam Film Festival, and her second film The Milk of Sorrow (La Teta Asustada), was nominated in the 82nd Academy Awards for Best Foreign Language Picture in Hollywood– the first Peruvian film to be nominated in the Academy’s history. Now you know a little bit more about the Peruvian movie industry, it’s time to introduce Enrica Pérez Matos. Enrica, 36, originates from Lima, and is the director/ creative mind of the movie Climas. Enrica studied at the Pontificia Universidad Católica del Perú, where she obtained a degree. She continued her studies at Lima University gaining a
bachelor´s degree in communication. From 2003-2008 she attended Columbia University Film School in the US and she has gained herself a Master of Fine Arts. Furthermore, Enrica is also the founder of Sexto Sentido; a young company that is dedicated to developing, financing and commercializing Peruvian-made movies. The Huaraz Telegraph caught up with Enrica in Huaraz, while she was shooting the final parts of her movie Climas. When did you start the film Climas? “It all started back in 2007 when I had to apply for funds. It can be very frustrating to make a film in Peru, unless you are very wealthy, it´s impossible without the help of funds. We (my producer Enid “Pinky” Campos and I) went to DICINE (previously known under the abbreviation of CONACINE) which is part of the Ministry of Culture in Peru, but here they have a different mentality. For them it´s not about the quality of the movie, but about the quantity; the more movies Peru produces the better, whereas I try to make a quality film. Without having a proper budget this is difficult. In 2011
The Huaraz Telegraph Outdoor shooting with adobe houses in the background
The Huaraz Telegraph APRIL 2013
Peruvian Films How does the casting process work when you’re working with a low budget?
The Huaraz Telegraph Director Enrica Pérez Matos
we received some extra funds from the Ibermedio who are an organization that promote the creation of Iber-American and Latin-American movies. With these funds we could finally start planning trips. The movie will be 80% Peruvian and 20% Colombian due to some regulations of one of the fund-supplying organizations. Now we are shooting the last bits here around Huaraz and then we unfortunately need more funds to finally edit and produce the movie.” What can you tell the readers about the film you´re making? “Well, as you know the film is called Climas (climates) and it tells three different stories of three different women. It is called Climas because of the relationship between the weather in the three different landscapes in Peru. The first part is shot in Pucallpa and it’s about a young adolescent girl between 11 and 14 years who is about to discover sexuality and everything that comes with it. Pucallpa is warm and humid and the people are friendly and happy, almost like in the Caribbean where people dance naked and have fun in their lives, and that´s where you see a relationship between the girl´s character and the climate. Then the second part is filmed in Lima. In Lima we follow a woman between 35–40 years of age having everything she could wish for. A big house, a husband and money; however, this woman is not happy with her current life which reflects the weather in Lima. Lima is grey, dark and sometimes sad when it pitter-patters (gently rains). The part we´re shooting in Huaraz is about an old lady that saw her children grow up and leave the house, and she is very lonely – referring to the endless landscapes in the Andes around Huaraz. The climate affects us as people. Whereas in the warmer parts of the country the people are happy and sympathetic, in other parts people are more reticent and restrained.” Why did you choose Huaraz to shoot part of your movie? “Partly because of the budget, but mainly because of the views. I wanted snowpeaked mountains in the background, and my producer told me straight away: ‘Then there is only one place – Huaraz!’ So here we are. We´re not shooting in the city itself, we´re actually filming in Willcacocha, and Pampacancha.”
“We use natural people, meaning people that have no acting experience. The part we shot in Pucallpa we held a casting day and more than 300 girls showed up. It´s sometimes difficult because we lose a lot of time, but it´s very nice working with inexperienced actors. The lady that played the role in the Andes part of our movie, for example, spoke Quechua but didn’t know how to read the script. Therefore, her son had to tell her what to do. This costs time as you can imagine. Luckily this lady knew how to improvise so it worked out very well. In general, it´s hard to learn something without being able to read.”
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Can you make a living being a movie director in Peru? “No, you cannot. You can study for a career in movies in Lima, but it´s very general. You will need to go to the United States like I did otherwise you´re lost. I studied literature at the Universidad Católica in Lima, but wanted to become an actress. Then I studied theatre/drama but it is difficult to make a living from that. You will need to save up money otherwise it´s complicated. Now there is a new generation of youngsters, but I belong to the 30–40-year-old generation. When I left the university, I knew basically nothing. New York is fascinating, that´s where I learned the most.” What is your favourite Peruvian-made movie? “The Peruvian movie scene is getting bigger, though more money is needed to support initiatives. There is state pressure meaning that in Peru they make movies just to make movies, but in the last few year things have been improving. Carmen Vargas is a director to keep an eye on in the forthcoming years. I like La boca del lobo (In the Mouth of the Wolf) by Francisco José Lombardi, and Días de Santiago by Josué Méndez. Finally, maybe not well known by others, El Paraiso directed by Héctor Gálvez.” Rounding up the interview, what are your goals for the future and what do you expect from your newest film Climas? “I hope to continue making films. I might win an international prize although I have to mention that fame doesn’t do anything for me. I love to live a tranquil life. Winning an international prize though will make it easier for me to get funds and, therefore, I am more likely to keep working as a director. I hope to have my film ready to present it at the 2013 Film Festival in Lima in August.” Text: Rex Broekman Pictures: Enrica Perez Matos
South African wearing new clothes in Huaraz´ prison fuming: ¨I should have been released already!¨ The following story is the follow up to an article I wrote back in July of last year, after visiting Lewis Charles Cornelius at the local penitentiary in Huaraz. For those who have not read the first instalment, it can be found on our website – www.thehuaraztelegraph.com or on www.issuu.com – look for the July edition of The Huaraz Telegraph. The article relays the story of the 51-year-old South African man who was serving the last five years of his sentence while suffering from HIV. Víctor Pérez Liendo penitentiary is a place where cellphones and apples are forbidden: but razors are no problem!
a chance to see inside his cell. The night before my visit I went to a few friends’ houses to wish them a Happy New Year. Everywhere I went I was offered an alcoholic drink: at Lucho´s, a Pisco de Muña at California Café, and even a free beer at Terracota Fusion while I was waiting for my takeaway. I made the decision not to accept any of these kind offers because I remembered when I visited the prison before my companion was denied access for being intoxicated. I couldn’t take any chances, so I went to bed early. This time I hadn’t prepared questions for Lewis; I would just
The Huaraz Telegraph APRIL 2013
wall saying: To enter the ´Penal´, bring your DNI (which is your identity card). Damn! I forgot. How on earth could I forget my ID? I would have to walk home, carrying that heavy bag because leaving it there with the police wouldn’t be the smartest thing to do. A guard opened the door and I thought since I was there I might as well give it a try. I explained to the guard that I had forgotten my ID, but I was only visiting the Tópico (the infirmary). The guard wouldn´t let me in but he called his supervisor. When the supervisor arrived I recognised him; he was there the first time I visited the penitentiary. I explained to him that I had forgotten my ID and asked if he could make an exception. Luckily for me he agreed. Unfortunately, I had to leave my voice recorder behind along with my key chain
It is the 6th of January and we have just welcomed in the New Year. I am having a clear-out of some old clothes, and my wife suggests I take them to the prison for Lewis. Although they have gone out of fashion, they still have a few good years´ use left in them, and I am sure Lewis would be grateful of such an offering. So I bag-up my old tennis sneakers, the shoes I used to wear when I was teaching English, a cap, a body warmer, a jacket, and many t-shirts. This time, however, I know not to take any food. Lewis mentioned the last time I was there that he would rather have items such as soap, shampoo or, even better, new shoes. While I am filling the bag I wonder to myself if inmates wish each other a Happy New Year in such a miserable place. The first time I visited Lewis he was full of energy, he talked about his case and the few annual visitors he had. The questions I asked him had turned into one of the most successful and thought-provoking stories I had written for The Huaraz Telegraph. Though now I was wondering what I could ask him this time. In my mind, I was trying to imagine how he´d be; whether the HIV virus had taken its toll on his body. Had he read his story in the paper and if so, what did he think? Had the article encouraged people to visit or write to him? What if he didn’t like it? Would he be happy to see me? Maybe he´d been transferred to another prison, or perhaps the authorities weren’t happy with the story and would not honour my request to see him. All these questions could only be answered by going there again and finding out. One disappointing aspect of my first article was the lack of up-to-date pictures. All I had was an old one that was taken when Lewis had just been transferred to Huaraz, and it did little to inform the reader of the conditions of both the subject and his environment. This time I wanted to have at least one recent picture of him and I was hoping, if it was possible, to get
to take the shoes into the prison. When I asked why he said that he liked them a lot and wanted them! I looked suitably unimpressed, and he said it was okay. After a body search, I was allowed to go though to the inner courtyard. I arrived at the place where I had previously interviewed Lewis, and I tried to ascertain which guard to ask to call Lewis. In the end it wasn’t necessary as Lewis had already spotted me and shouted loudly from a short distance: “Rex Broekman, how nice to see you!” I was shocked that he even remembered my last name; I must have made an impact. Anyway, as much as Lewis was happy to see me, I was even happier as it meant I could relax a bit more now and work towards a story. Lewis had been standing near the entrance patio attempting to make some money by trying to sell chewing gum to visitors. He hadn’t changed; he immediately started to talk, and clearly wore his heart on his sleeve. I handed him the bag of clothes and showed him what I had brought. He was extremely happy of course especially with the two pairs of shoes. I then handed him two editions of The Huaraz Telegraph. He smiled and said: “Excellent, I was hoping for this when you opened the bag.” This was swiftly followed by a “Happy New Year”. He asked whether I wanted to sit down, but I said I would rather stand. Instead of having the conversation at the place where we had it last year, I asked him if I could see his cell and continue our chat there. While walking, being guarded by Lewis, I noticed that he commanded a certain respect in the prison. I was offered chewing gum, sweets and other stuff by prisoners but when Lewis told them to bugger off they took notice and left. We went through two steel-chained doors to the infirmary. On my left I noticed a big, smoky kitchen with huge pots on the floor; they were preparing the meals for the jailbirds.
The Huaraz Telegraph Lewis posing for a picture taken back in August 2012
visit and see what happened. I had my tiny voice recorder so taping the conversations would be easy. When I arrived at the penitentiary there were no long lines of people waiting outside, which was a bit odd. Would it be closed because of riots? When I got closer, I noticed that the door of the adjacent police office was open and I asked them if I could go in. “Sure just knock on the next door”, the policeman said. I knocked on the door, and as I waited I noticed a sign hanging on the
(which seemed the more logical choice). I was asked if I carried a cell phone – that would have been against the law as well. I did not; I was smart enough to leave my phone at home. While all the clothes were being checked, I did notice that the guards found it very interesting that I had come to do an interview. They had seen the previous editions of The Huaraz Telegraph I had brought for Lewis. The guard checked the clothes I had brought and said to me that I would not be allowed
Then there was another door we had to go through, and that was to get to his cell. On the left I noticed that my neighbour was sitting behind a desk and I greeted her; she was clearly wondering what I was doing there. Lewis answered the question for me by saying I was his friend and I had come for a visit. I had been promoted from visitor to friend without even knowing it. At the end of the hall there was a tiled shower. I was impressed, the water was probably cold but it didn’t look as bad as I’d expected. Lewis took a right turn, and finally I was standing in his cell. Carefully, as if carrying a pot of gold, he put the bag of clothes on his bed and asked me to sit. His cellmates were obviously surprised with my arrival, and came to shake hands and say hello but I told them that I preferred not to be touched. Lewis, as far as possible behind three locked doors and deep into the prison,
The Huaraz Telegraph APRIL 2013 tried to make me feel comfortable, and insisted that I sit down on his bed, which I did. While I was thinking what to ask him, he asked me if I knew Erica. Erica was a young lady from South Africa who had visited Lewis after reading my story. He spoke eagerly of her visit. It was really gratifying to know that my story had touched someone so deeply that they felt compelled to visit him. I asked him what he thought about it, Lewis replied: “I am actually a bit worried, Rex, because I haven’t heard from her again. She told me that she had to leave the country and would go north and then come back; which she hasn’t.” It became apparent that I was Lewis’s first visitor in over two months. Lewis spoke about the bravery Erica had displayed in coming to visit him, and he gave an excellent description of her as he remembered her green eyes and blond hair. “She left me her number and I have tried to call her on numerous occasions but for some reason I cannot get in contact with her. Maybe she´s in Ecuador or has simply changed her number for some reason.” Lewis told me that on this occasion he wanted to share some things with The Huaraz Telegraph. Last time he did not have any recent pictures, now he told me that he had three pictures of himself and that he was happy to give me one to take away and publish in my paper. Lewis also showed me the documents from his trial and subsequent sentence in 2006. The first thing I noticed was that the author had misspelled Amsterdam. For some reason I found this amusing and pointed out the error to Lewis. Among the documents was an informe psicológico, which is a psychological report describing Lewis´s behaviour and conduct. According to this document Lewis was born on August 1st 1960, and has eight children. Lewis is further described as follows: “He is a fair-skinned adult with brown hair and his personality is defined as that of a normal person and constitution. He is approximately 1.75m tall and presents with three tattoos – one on his left shoulder, another on his left hand, and the third one on his chest. Further-
Local News more, he has one scar on his right hand which was the result of a motor accident”. Lewis declares in this document that his parents have passed away and that he is the youngest of twelve children. In addition, it shows that Lewis is “co-operating
being a psychopath and that the likelihood of social reinsertion is high” (out of high–medium–low) and that this psychological test “favours him of acceptance of the requested or claimed benefits”.
ing I am here under the 2-9-7 sentence, which is the one without possible conditional release. As I have done half of my sentence, I should be released but no one wants to hear my case. I would have been out already if I had someone on the outside! I feel sad. You´ll understand that my psychological report shows that I do have a very good case even though I am constantly being victimized and beaten by the guards.” I was thinking Lewis had been beaten by maybe one or two of the guards, but Lewis stated that there were eight or nine. The full names of all the guards involved are listed in the report. “I was abused on the 23rd of October last year and after 20 days the prosecutor came with cameras for an interview and a small investigation. Where the hell are you going to find marks after 20 days? It was unbelievable!”
Lewis´ hunger strike declaration written on 03-12-2012 last year.
very well and responds well to questions thinking them over before answering in a simple language, or plain Spanish.” His first psychological interview took place on 08/06/2010, and I read that he has had no less than 106 sessions already. Probably to kill time as well, because 106 is a lot! Lewis is showing “responsibility, punctuality and discipline” when present at those sessions. The document concludes mentioning that Lewis has “no signs of
I asked Lewis why he was showing me his confidential psychological report when he didn´t have to. “Look, as I told you before on your first visit, I got sentenced 2-9-6 (code referring to the benefits or restrictions in prison). That sentence means that I can apply for parole. Instead, when I was transferred to Huaraz (Lewis spent the first part of his sentence in the Callao Prison), I lost the benefits and the officials here hold me against my rights claim-
Then Lewis showed me a hand written letter dated 03-12-2012. It was a declaration of his intention to go on another hunger strike. “That guy there in the corner, wearing that bleached jogging suit, is sexually abusing that old man there. He lifts him up and throws him on the floor, the rest you can imagine.” To be honest I could not imagine the rest. “Two months ago he cruelly removed a toenail from his right foot. I try to keep things clean and ordered here in Tópico. I have even got them (referring to personnel) to give us soap and antibacterial liquids so we can disinfect the place. It´s a prison but also an infirmary, you know?” Lewis is fuming when he talks about the guards. “Gestapo that’s what they are; a piece of shit. They treat me like an animal. When beating me, they say things like: ‘Hit the dog’. Nine against one, they beat me for fun, Rex. Where we are now I have respect, but I have fought for it. They know I have HIV and I can take their lives. Do you think they (referring to his cell mates) would survive in a European or South African prison? Of course not, this place is a kindergarten!” Lewis then told me that his embassy came and visited in August, I thought this was a positive thing and said as much to Lewis. ”No it was not Read further on page 8.
8 Continuation of page 7.
because I could hardly speak to them. The main guy was called Moheng Motlhale and he was accompanied by two others. It took the bastards 30 months to see me and this time the warden ruined it all. First he filled up his office with nurses saying there was no place where they could meet me, and then when they
QUOTE OF THE MONTH Lewis, have you ever thought about what to do when you´re released from prison? Lewis: ¨Maybe I can work at an airport!¨
Lewis 6 years later after being caught with 17 kilos of coke at the airport Jorge Chavez in Lima. arrived the second time I got a call to report to the warden´s office, he said that we only had five minutes because the warden had to go. My rights are being violated. The director of the prison was just trying to dodge them. The white guy from the embassy noticed it luckily and they said they´d come back, but you’re the first visitor since Christmas and they should have been here two weeks ago. This is why my situation has got worse. I feel like a filthy animal. Also I have lost all contact with the outside world. I got three phone calls from my adopted son Clifford. He phoned to ask how his uncle is doing but it was very difficult to get me on the phone of course. After the third call I finally got to speak to him. We spoke for over half an hour.” I asked Lewis if he ever thought about what he would do if and when he is released. “Well I am trying to improve my Spanish so I can work here in Peru in the tourist industry or in South Africa, but I have heard that they´ll put me on a plane, and that I may never come back to Peru. Although, there are now rumours going about that this might not be the case. Maybe I can work at an airport!” My reply of: “Of course! You´re a specialist after
The Huaraz Telegraph APRIL 2013
all!” made Lewis laugh his ass off for half a minute with that. That was the best joke he had heard in years. While Lewis was still laughing, I had a look around his cell. I counted seven beds and assumed that there would be seven cons sleeping in here, but Lewis stated that there were actually eight. There was a small stove and a black and white television. It looked better than I initially thought it would. Three of the eight convicts were suffering from HIV and another one had TBC (a non-infectious strand of Tuberculosis). The most striking character out of the eight was a 92-year-old serving a 14 year sentence which he got eight years ago for abusing a seven year-old-boy. I noticed that Lewis looked healthier than he did six months ago so I asked him if that was the case. ”You´re right,” he said, “because I take even better care of myself. I hate the packages of carbohydrates we get served here so if possible I prefer to make some spaghetti or potatoes with vegetables. Healthy food is the key for me. I sell chewing gum to make some money you know. Yesterday I made one sol fifty! Some other inmates call me Mick Jagger and ask me to sing the song Satisfaction. I got the head nurse here the sack because she was lazy and fat. Now the new nurse makes sure everyone gets their medication on time because that is very important. I avoid greasy food and maintain order and discipline.” As it was the first week after New Year I was wondering if Lewis had celebrated Christmas and how he felt back than. “Heartbreaking, to be honest. You´ll see other inmates getting visits from family members but I didn’t have one single visit. I am surviving because I am strong and have some intelligence. But remember, no matter how intelligent you are you can’t beat the system. Rephrase: the corrupt system. It´s all about the money.” Before saying goodbye I wanted to ask Lewis what he thought of The Huaraz Telegraph and if he had enjoyed reading the previous editions. “It´s an excellent newspaper Rex, I like to read history and I now know a lot more about the
Lewis´s psicologial report shows no less than 106 participated sessions
area and Peru. I knew nothing about the earthquake for example,” referring to the 1970 Ancash Earthquake which killed over 20,000 people. “I also liked the food description page but most of all was that tiny story you wrote about your compatriot, the waffleman,” referring to Dirk Wolkers who produces typical Dutch Syrup Waffles in Huaraz. “That guy must make a fortune, he´s a lucky man, I bet. In addition I liked the map of Huaraz in the centre of your paper because I can imagine that tourists can find directions easily. Good job!” Lewis told me he had kept all the previous editions safely in a box underneath his bed. I guess because you never know when one of your cellmates will need of some toilet paper.
On the way out Lewis guarded me through the penitentiary´s restaurant where I could eat from the menu for as little as four soles, but for cons this was a fortune an there was only a handful of them eating. Lewis Charles Cornelius is supposed to be released in 2017. Lewis can be visited on Sundays and would kindly ask readers to bring a small amount of money, food or useful things like old clothes or soap. It is safe to visit the prison, but feel free to visit the Tourist Police on the Main Square (Plaza de Armas) if you want them to accompany you as I did the first time, but not this time. Story: Rex Broekman
clinica San Pablo
The Huaraz Telegraph APRIL 2013
Resto-bar Sierra Andina From the makers of SIERRA ANDINA beer
y popular demand, this year the Sierra Andina brewery opened its intown taproom – a place where Patrons can gather, enjoy our high quality craft ales, fresh organic food, and organic, perfectly toasted coffee. We named it TRIVIO – from the Latin word Trivium which means the junction of three trails. It was at these trail junctions that the people would meet on their way to the market or to work and catch up on what is going on and chat about the day-to-day stuff in their lives; hence the word ‘trivial’ has come to mean ‘day-to-day topics’. As the name implies, our new restaurant TRIVIO is also a junction of three trails
the trail or story of our beer that we brew,
the trail or story of the organic vegetables that we grow in our own organic farm
the story of our own organic coffee that we grow and toast.
We invite you to come and get to know the story behind the food and drinks served at TRIVIO. In our modern world, too often we remain disconnected from what we consume. We do not know from where the water comes that pours from our taps or where the cow was raised that produced the meat for our hamburgers. At TRIVIO we work hard at providing our customers with the story behind the food and drinks because we believe that the world should be connected.
The four beauties with distinct flavors of Sierra Andina
Our three trails: Sierra Andina Beer – In 2011 we opened the Sierra Andina Brewing Company, a microbrewery dedicated to brewing, bottling and selling fine ales throughout Peru. The actual brewery is located just a few minutes outside of town and is a great place to visit! We serve beer in many of the best restaurants in Huaraz, Lima, Iquitos, and Cusco. Our fresh Produce – We operate a small organic farm or ‘Huerta’ 10 minutes outside Huaraz where we grow vegetables. The farm is also home to the Semillas de Vida Waldorf School. The vegetables are grown with a lot of love and care and we invite you to join us on Sundays pulling weeds and tending to the ‘beds’. The foods that we do not grow are sources as locally as possible from other organic producers. Shuqush Organic Coffee – Peru has long boasted some of the world’s finest coffee beans and as testimony to that we serve our own brand of coffee ‘Shuqush’. Our coffee comes from organic coffee farmers the in Chachapoyas area. We select the best coffee from this rich and lush area and toast it to perfection. Our coffee has been hailed by many as one of the smoothest blends in Peru.
Fresh vegetables from a small organic farm near Huaraz
TRIVIO is a place to come at any time during the day for a pint of handcrafted draft ale or a cup of finely toasted organic coffee or a plate of fresh well prepared food. We have a lively bar / café area with open air balcony looking down on a charming plaza – perfect place to meet new friends or curl up on a couch with your book. We also have a quiet elegant dining area that serves fresh food carefully prepared by our Belgian-trained chef and his staff. Our menu boasts a broad selection of steaks, salads, burgers, pastas, soups, deserts and quiche tarts. Many of the plates are based on the recipes from ‘Mi Chef’, the famous restaurant that was run by the Belgium chef ‘Kristof’ which occupied the location before us. We work diligently in training our staff to provide uniquely attentive and friendly service – come see for yourself what all the fuss is about! You will find that Huaraz just got a little better!
Trivio can be found at Parque del Periodista in Huaraz
One of the smoothest blends in Peru
Expat in Huaraz
The Huaraz Telegraph APRIL 2013
The Peruvian dream
According to I.N.E.I. statistics, in 2010 10,247 foreigners entered Peru and stayed for over a year. Maybe they were looking for the Peruvian dream, or maybe just hanging out as tourists while visiting some supreme undiscovered places in Peru. The Free Dictionary describes the American dream as: “the notion that the American social, economic, and political system makes success possible for every individual”. The Huaraz Telegraph is wondering whether the Peruvian dream exists and if so, how to reach for those ideals on the Latin American continent being an expat? When walking along the street it´s easy to spot the difference between a tourist and an expat. Whereas most tourists wear their tiny day backpacks, zip-off pants and have a camera around their neck, most of the time the expat walks at a faster pace from A to B. When I travelled the world I always wondered (I still do) how it would be being a foreigner in a country like Cambodia, Egypt or Bolivia. Why would you want to live there in the first place? Well, expats might have their stories and reasons I guess. This is why in every edition of The Huaraz Telegraph, we´re interviewing an expat living in Huaraz. Ever wondered how it would be to leave your friends, family and belongings behind and move to Huaraz? First a small insight into the numbers and stats before we head to the interview. I know a lot of the foreigners living in Huaraz but not all and, therefore, I doubted they would be registered; resulting in skewed stats. To be completely honest, I was wondering whether there would be any stats at all. I went to the I.N.E.I (National Institute of Statistics and Computer science) in Huaraz and asked them the simple question: How many gringos are living in Huaraz or Ancash? The answer was as interesting as the question. After signing up and explaining the purpose of my visit, I was shown a couple of statistical books and told I should be able to find the answer
there. Well, after half an hour of searching …nothing! How about the number of foreigners in Peru and the number of immigrants every year? That was a little easier to find. On the I.N.E.I website (http://www.inei.gob.pe/biblioineipub/ bancopub/Est/Lib1038/libro.pdf) there are loads of stats on Peruvian emigration as well as Peruvian immigration between 1990 and 2011. Not bad, still up-to-date and even easily accessible. All stats mentioned in chapter IV on page 73 are for Foreign Residential Immigrants in Peru, concerning foreigners that have arrived to Peru between 1994 and 2010 and have NOT left the country after less than a year. This means that, even though Peru has a law that visitors may only stay up to a maximum of 183 days a year, ´gringos´ are, after one year, considered immigrants in the Republic of Peru. Between 1994 and 2010, 63,316 foreigners were considered residents of Peru without any migration movement noticed crossing borders to leave the country. Between 1994 and 2003, the number of foreigners entering Peru was never higher than 2,500 individuals. However, between 2004 and 2006, the number of immigrants reached up to almost 4,000 people with 6,000 in 2007. The latest stats show that in 2010 at least 10,247 foreigners stayed in Peru longer than one year and are considered as immigrants. This study also notes that the number of immigrants
The number of immigrants is growing by the year (I.N.E.I. stats)
has increased in the last few years. Between 2005 and 2010, the number of immigrants was 39,576, representing a 62.5% of the total registered between 1994 and 2010. The period between 1999 and 2004 represents an increase of 14,707 ´nuevos gringos´ signifying 23.2% of the total. Another interesting graph in the document shows that 59% of the immigrants are between 20 and 49 years of age. Immigrants younger than 19 years of age represent 9.7% of the immigrant population, 16.2% are 60 or older representing 10,257 people. When we look at the gender of the immigrants there is an interesting chart showing us that 39.8% of the immigrants are women whereas 60.2% are men representing a total of 63,316 immigrants (38,145 males to 25,171 females). Their marital status shows that 26,813 (45.5%) of the settlers are married and 19,635 are single. A total of 12,526 people are either divorced, widowed or didn’t want to specify. Just before the document starts to talk about the country of origin, it mentions that 50,950 people have come to Peru by air, entering the country at Jorge Chavez National Airport. A small 5.9% entered from the south in Tacna (Santa Rosa), 3.3% from Bolivia (Desaguadero) and a 2.5% came from the north crossing the border from Ecuador at Aguas Verdes. A total of 1,389 arrived at the harbour of Callao (probably shipwrecked and unable to return home).
A 33.3% of the Peruvian immigrants are from the same continent (South America).
The author of the stats declares that there exists a strong concentration of regional immigrants referring to 33.3% of foreigners coming from Latin American countries such as Argentina, Bolivia and Chile. Leaving the continent, surprisingly to me, the Europeans form 27.6% of the newcomers whereas the North American continent only accounts for 17.8%. Asian countries, mainly China and Japan, are good for 16.7% where Mexico helps
Central America with 3.5%. Oceania and Africa have the least immigrants with respectively 0.7% and 0.5%. As you just have read, to qualify for the status of immigrant you will need to stay in Peru for over a year. This is also the condition for our interview, so we start with a Dutch compatriot. 1. Who are you? “Sabine Honing from The Netherlands.” 2. How old are you and what´s your profession? “32, my profession is HR consultant, but I work as a project manager for the Dutch foundation Stichting Wees Kind (SWK) which means to be a child (www.stichtingweeskind.nl).” 3. Since when have you been living in Huaraz? “In 2007 I came for the first time to Huaraz as a volunteer for SWK and lived for four months in Huaraz. After that I came back in 2009 and have been here ever since, with only some visits to The Netherlands in between.” 4. What brought you to Huaraz? “To be honest, I didn’t specifically choose to come to Huaraz, but decided to do volunteer work for SWK, whose projects are located in Huaraz (Los Pinos, Ichoca, Huaraz Centre and Monterrey). That’s how I accidentally got to live and work in Huaraz for four months. As a volunteer I worked in the soup kitchens and the girls’ home during the week, and with our group of volunteers we used to go and enjoy the mountains every weekend. Because of this I really got to like the nature and surroundings and quickly understood why so many tourists like to visit Huaraz to climb or walk!”
The Huaraz Telegraph APRIL 2013
Expat in Huaraz
5. How has your life changed over the years? “Five years ago, back in Amsterdam I was an HR consultant working in an office all week, now I work for a foundation that doesn’t have an office in The Netherlands or Peru and it’s always a surprise what a new day brings! After the four months of volunteering and two months of travelling through Peru and Ecuador, I had the opportunity to go back to my HR job in Amsterdam. I did that for a year. In the meantime, SWK needed a new coordinator in Huaraz. Having met my boyfriend and now husband in Huaraz, and also not quite being able to get used to the office routine and structured lifestyle in The Netherlands again, I didn’t have to think it over long to decide to come back! Over the years the work for SWK has changed too; the financial crisis has a big influence on the foundation funds and donations are getting less and less, that’s why we need to work on local fundraising more and more.” 6. What are your favourite hangout spots in Huaraz? “The locations of our projects, which are really nice places because of the children and people we work with. And of course 13 Buhos, Café California, the balcony of Café Andino, and just about anywhere outside in the mountains!” 7. What is it you miss the most from back home, and how often do you go back? “Family and friends, although I would also miss my friends from here, being back in The Netherlands. Other than that going by bike everywhere in Amsterdam, over the canals, drinking a white beer on a terrace, picnicking in the park, cheese, whole grain bread, vegetarian food and drop (sweet ’n’ sour liquorish). Luckily I have been able to go back every year, which is also the maximum period for me to not see my family and friends from there. Also a lot of family and friends have come to visit me in Peru.” 8. What is it you like most about Huaraz? “I love the beautiful mountains of Huaraz and the amazing views you get from almost everywhere, from the windows of our house, walking on the streets of Huaraz to the places where the SWK projects are. I’ll never get enough of that and it gives me a lot of energy!” 9. What´s your opinion about the tourist business in Huaraz? “I always have had very good experiences going on excursions or hikes because I always go with Huascaran Travel or with friends. But the quality and professionalism of agencies is very diverse. I find it annoying but funny at the
The Huaraz Telegraph Sabine Honing from The Netherlands enjoying her job
same time that after all this time in Huaraz the same people try to sell me Llanganuco and Chavin tours on the Plaza the Armas or Luzuriaga.” 10. What sites or activities do you recommend (or not) to our readers? “Besides the beautiful must-see nature of Huaraz, with some sites getting a bit touristy in high season, I would definitely recommend going up to stay a while at one of the lodges, visit a community and one of our projects (www.goodwillglobetrotting.org/stichtingweeskind or sabine@stichtingweeskind. nl ), to get a complete picture of Huaraz and its people.” 11. If you were to become the Mayor of Huaraz one day, what would you do or change?
possible in The Netherlands… and I appreciate it a lot. My opinion about the Peruvian dream is that we all need to live our own dream, no matter where on earth, although I do believe that Peru, and a big part of its people and children, is a pretty piece of earth with people believing in their dreams and fighting for them every day. If the profits of the social, economic, and political system would be divided amongst all of them, instead off just a few it would be more possible for everybody to have a change to success and living their dream.”
13. How do you see your future in Huaraz? “My future in Huaraz is short-term; when both our jobs finish here, we’ll move from Huaraz. Although that might not sound very believable after four years!” Thanks for your time Are you an expat living in Huaraz? Contact us for an interview!
Soon: Fast Food!
“I would put a whole lot more garbage bins on the streets, ones with bottoms in them! You throw something in the ones we have now and it falls on the street. Make traffic and the traffic police work. I find it surprising that the elderly and people with children go into preference lines at almost any place you can think of, and the traffic police don’t pay any attention when pedestrians get run over in the streets!! As mayor I would also give more direct social help to the people who really need it and make that help structured so something can substantially change.” 12. Are you living the Peruvian dream (explain)? “I didn’t come to Peru looking for the Peruvian dream, although I met my husband here and the work I get to do here with the SWK team is pretty amazing. Also not living on such a structured time schedule, in a society aimed a bit less at materialism, and having flexible work, with unexpected things still surprising me after all these years is something that would not have been
The Huaraz Telegraph APRIL 2013
¨A child´s smile is the engine of my bicycle¨ What do The Independent (UK), Le Journal de Camerun, el Diari de la Catalunya, the Colombian newspaper El Tiempo and The Huaraz Telegraph have in common? Well, these are just some of the newspapers that had the privilege to talk to Fernando Padrós from Catalunya in Spain. Nando (as he prefers to be called) has been homeless for eight years. He abandoned European society, left his home, friends and job behind and took to his bicycle and is cycling around the world trying to support children in need. The Huaraz Telegraph conducted an interview with the very forthright and honest 52-year-old, who openly questions the function of NGOs (non-government organisations). To Nando the trip is endless, at least until something happens, or he simply gets tired of his current lifestyle. Then he will look for a new challenge. Nando was smiling and very happy during the interview, but he mentioned that not all the memories of the things he had seen on his trip will be happy ones. How did you come up with this crazy idea and how did you prepare yourself? Did you cycle a lot in Spain? ¨I don’t believe it´s crazy but I decided to leave everything behind because I didn’t want to live in a society like Europe. I wasn’t happy back then with my life. We all have needs in our lives and moments when we are questioning what we are actually doing. My feelings said I had to do something. It came to me, why not cycle and help orphans? I am originally a climber. As you know, everyone in Europe has a bicycle so it was easy for me. I didn’t prepare myself to be honest. I took my 80kg bicycle and left. For sure I manage the bike better than eight years ago, but the pace is not important. If I go slowly I can see more and meet people. My weight goes up and down because sometimes I fall sick and that takes time. I had to go back to Spain for a time because in Ecuador I had some longterm problems and now I am preparing myself to continue again from Huaraz.¨ How did you get to Huaraz? ¨When I shut the door of my house I went north first, across Europe and on to England. Then I went to the MiddleEast and from there I crossed into Africa where I visited 29 countries. Then I flew to New York where I went on to Canada, then back to the United States crosscountry, and then south through Central America entering South America in Colombia and Venezuela.¨ How do you get in contact with the orphanages? ¨When I get to a city I have to ask around. In Huaraz it was a bit easier because I knew Benquelo Morales (owner of the X-treme bar), and he invited me to stay at his place. Shortly after arriving somewhere I go to the local press,
The Huaraz Telegraph A very happy Nando Padrós surrounded by delighted children
universities and colleges to present myself and set up a speech and also contact the orphanages.¨ Can you explain your desire for helping orphans? ¨In my previous travels I have seen a lot of misery. Most of the people from the first world only say, ´poor guys´, but don’t do anything. That always affected me, especially when kids are involved. I don’t take care of old people, although I helped them as well in Africa, but under special circumstances. I love kids although I do not have kids myself, but I have 30,000 kids I have helped in eight years. In Huaraz I already did two donations, but Peru in that sense is quite complicated. The rules are sometimes so strange; before a speech I have to fill out a form and apply for permission. I refuse to do that. I am there to give a speech and help the children, not for bureaucracy. So to summarize, I don’t have kids myself but I love children.¨ How are the road conditions in Peru? ¨They are quite good actually, a lot better than the roads in Africa, excellent in comparison. I´d almost say they´re highways. There they only have dirt roads; here the coastal roads are all paved so that´s great. But the dirt roads are important, that’s where you meet the right people, especially in the mountains. However, Punta Olympica was really tough on the bike.¨ Do you like cycling? ¨I like cycling, and I like helping the kids; I really love the idea of the speed, which is equal to the butterflies. The other day children came running next to me, and they asked questions like: Gringo, what
are you doing here? This is because I am on a bicycle. It´s amazing, their minds change instantly. When you are on a motorbike, it is different. They see me with blue eyes, sweating and suffering, which is good. People invite me in for soup and a short stay in their house for example. They help me and I try to help them in a way. It is the sense of my life now. I believe I am living a great life. I don’t have money and basically live on the street. Now here at Ben´s place I have a roof over my head and can take a warm shower, which is a luxury for me. The past three and a half years I have only slept in a bed 42 times. If paradise exists, this must be it!¨
¨I am just a guy with a bicycle! ¨
- Fernando Padrós -
So you are a happy man? ¨I am always happy. We only have one life so we have to make the best of it. My health is going downhill unfortunately, but it´s amazing how fast life flies by. Eight years! it´s unbelievable. I don’t drink and don’t smoke because, one, I don’t have the money for it, and two, I don’t feel that desire. It´s great to see how many doors open when people see a bicycle, I cannot explain to you the feeling of joy, it´s hard to describe but it´s something I carry always with me.¨ How do you get in touch with the organisations that are in contact with the orphanages or casa hogares in Peru? ¨Well, first of all I am against those kinds of organisations. The organisations here
though are different because they´re so small and haven’t got any money. They need everything I can possibly offer. I normally try to avoid the interference in any organisation, but here in Huaraz my landlord told me about some of the better ones and set up a meeting. One on those organisations is Stiching Wees Kind which is run by Katherine and Sabine. After having a chat with the two girls I committed to stay here for one month, and see if I could collect food. I give as many speeches as I can to collect as much food as possible. If I don’t have any help, let´s say I am on my own, I go to the mayor or government of a city and explain about my project. I ask them if there is a place with children in need. This can be an orphanage or casa hogares. When I go there I ask them if they like the idea of me giving speeches about my travels and gathering food, medicines or clothes. If they say yes, then the door is open and I can start setting up the speeches.¨ Do they ever say no? ¨Uhhmm… Yes, but it´s not always what it seems on the outside. For example, in Venezuela I arrived somewhere with a ton of food for the poor younger ones, and someone mentioned to me, just before handing them the food over at this place, that they used the girls for prostitution. I had to cancel my offer, which is a great shame for the kids but that´s me. I can’t co-operate if I hear that, you know? It happens a lot here in Peru as well. For example, in Cajamarca there is one where they do that as well.¨ Seriously? We are talking about children right? ¨I have been there. But obviously the director of the orphanage won’t tell you
The Huaraz Telegraph APRIL 2013 that. She would have received my food with a big smile but I cannot accept that. Children 12, 15 or 16 years of age; it´s difficult, I guess, to catch them (referring to the bad guys). I cannot give you the name of that orphanage because you will get into trouble, when I was there I also mentioned it on TV and the journalist asked me for the name so they can do the research. Let me tell you about another one in Venezuela. When I arrived again with tons of food the director of the orphanage asked me for a (private) fridge and a kitchen. I asked him if he wanted 5000kg of food or not. He told me that he would rather have a new kitchen while the children were starving. I had to take the food back, again so unfortunate for the children.¨ Nando, a moment ago you said you didn’t like organisations, what´s your opinion on foreigners running an NGO? ¨Generally speaking, I don’t like it. I have to be a bit careful because I have friends that run NGOs, but for me NGOs are just companies. There are bigger ones and smaller ones but they just spend the whole day on their computers. Sending papers and declaring on the internet, ´we did this, we did that´. At the end of the day, the owner of an NGO doesn’t care if children have enough food or not or worse have HIV. I saw really bad things in Africa, not just by foreigners but in general. I have seen owners of NGOs killing orphans. What is it you really want to know? My hands are tied. There are crises everywhere in the world so what is the first thing we are going to cut? Development assistance and help, not their vacations, fuck them. I don’t want to generalise, I have many friends at those NGOs but as an individual I believe that if you have 500,000 Euros to spend on a HIV project, 80% of this money will go to white people. It goes on cars, houses, insurance, salaries; two return trips back to Europe because you don’t want to stay the whole year in Africa, because of Malaria or other diseases. The other 20% goes to the project. But even this 20% doesn’t change anything because in Africa everybody fucks everybody, and all without using condoms so this is a lost project. There is no control there. Nobody wants to get tested because if your neighbour knows you suffer from HIV, they kill you. People in Africa die between 40–50 years of age, either from Malaria, Typhus, Cholera or AIDS, on the other
The Huaraz Telegraph Nando and his packed bicycle
hand they don’t care; life is too short for them to worry. I am sure that if you do a survey one day in The Huaraz Telegraph about unprotected sex in Huaraz, the results will be shocking to you. People here don’t care, maybe afterwards.¨ Let´s go back to the subject of the children. What is your best experience in eight years? ¨I have many, I cannot describe one. I have millions. But on a journey like this it would be a child that can tell me thank you. That is the engine of my bicycle. That keeps me going. I have had many bad experiences as well you will understand, but the good situations will always erase the bad ones.¨ Have you ever felt unsafe or in great danger? ¨Not really, I am not that type of guy, but the one place in the world out of the 66 countries I have visited so far, where I will never go back to, is Nigeria. I have been in two countries where there is war for example, but I never saw one single dead person. In Nigeria I saw people lying naked on the street with their intestines next to them. Only five meters from that dead body there were children playing with a ball. In one week they put a gun to my head me five times and tried to steal my belongings. I think it´s all a matter of being lucky. I have friends who have gone to Nigeria and said it was a great country and didn’t have any problems. When you go to Colombia people will tell you the same, but for me Colombia is the most interesting South American country so far. I have been with guerrilla people in the jungle, and I was treated very well. They gave me food and everything because at the end of the day, I am nothing more than a guy with a bicycle. What am I going to do? If you are scared entering a country you should take your bicycle and go back to Barcelona. But hey, in Barcelona they can kill me too! I have been in the Sudan War and the Congo War and every night after curfew people went dancing, so did I. I have asked them, but this is not war? And they answered me: Yes it is war, but we have to live too. Drinking beer and dancing and the next day they are killing each other. This is how it works.¨ Rounding up the interview, is there anything you would like to share with our readers? ¨I don’t want people to tell me I do such a great job. I know I can’t change people´s minds by what I do. I am aware that I am not saving the world; I am merely saving myself in a selfish way. I met many people saying, we are really poor. The poor people are not the ones that don’t have anything; the poor people are the ones that don’t have what they really need. My life weighs 80kg and I am happy with that, I don’t need anything else.¨ If readers would like to catch up with Nando Padrós, visit www.gambada.com or find him on Facebook.
The Huaraz Telegraph APRIL 2013
All you should know about day trips, trekking, mountaineering and bouldering The Cordillera Blanca offers countless opportunities for trekkers and climbers, as well as for people not so keen on physical activities. Its wonderful lakes and glaciers of the White Range are easily accessible from the town of Huaraz. Here is a quick guide to the best activities around Huaraz. DAY TRIPS Daily sightseeing tours These tours are great for those of you who are not so active, or who need to acclimatise before heading out into the mountains. LLANGANUCO – This tour visits the villages in the Huaylas Valley (Carhuaz, Yungay, Caraz), and the beautiful Llanganuco Lake. Be aware that you will only spend from 40 minutes to one hour at the lake. Daily departures. CHAVIN DE HUANTAR – This tour takes you to Chavin, a village situated on the other side of the Cordillera Blanca in the Conchucos Valley. Here you can visit the Chavin de Huantar UNESCO World Heritage site, featuring some of the oldest and most significant pre-Inca ruins in Peru. You also make a stop at the lovely Lake Querococha along the way. Departs every day except Mondays when the ruins are closed for maintenance. PASTORURI – This tour visits the southern section of the Cordillera Blanca, with the amazing Pastoruri glacier, which is still well worth a visit despite having lost 40% of its ice in recent years. You can’t help but be impressed by the huge ice cliffs and the Puya Raimondii – a rare 12m high bromeliad plant which you visit on the way to the glacier. Make sure you become acclimatised before going on this tour as the glacier is at 5000m. Departs every day. Day hikes These hikes are perfect for those needing to acclimatise before a trek, or for those with limited time. LAKE CHURUP, 4485m – This is one of the closest and easily accessible hiking routes from Huaraz, leading to a very beautiful turquoise/emerald green coloured glacial lake. It can be quite challenging as there are some steep sections, and there is a rock wall before the lake which you need to scramble up to (there are wires to help you up). It can be tricky in the rainy season when the rock is wet and incredibly slippery, so be careful. It is recommended not to hike alone; for those of you with limited hiking experience it is advisable to go with a guide, as he will carry a rope that will help you go up and down the rock wall safely. For experienced hikers a guide is not necessary as the path is easy to find. The trailhead at Llupa can be easily reached by public transport.
LAKE 69, 4550m – This is undoubtedly one of the most beautiful hikes in the Cordillera Blanca. Located in the northern section of the national park. From Huaraz it’s roughly a three hour drive to the trailhead (Cebollapampa), the journey is incredibly scenic with great views of Mount Huascaran and the Llanganuco Lakes. The hike is of moderate difficulty, but can be challenging for those with limited acclimatisation. You can reach the trailhead by public transport, but finding transport to get back can prove very difficult, so it is recommended to hire private transport from Huaraz. For those with hiking experience a guide is not necessary as the path is clear. The lake is stunning for its pristine blue colour, and its fantastic location at the foot of the mighty Mount Chacraraju. You are rewarded with awesome views of the Cordillera Blanca’s highest summits during the hike. LAKE LLACA, 4470m – This is one of the closest lakes to Huaraz. It takes two hours by private transport to reach the trailhead at the Llaca refuge. From there it is a short hike to reach the lake. The lake is not as stunning as others in the region, but it is a good option for those wishing to acclimatise with limited effort and time. It is possible to do ice climbing here, but the ice walls tend to be full of sand. LAKE AGUAC, 4580m – This is another lake located close to Huaraz. The trail starts at the ruins of Wilcahuain and is fairly easy to find. It is quite a long hike and the altitude can make it challenging. The lake doesn’t have a special colour, but there are some great mountain views. LAKE PARON, 4140m – The lake is located in the northern section of the national park. You need to first go to the town of Caraz before ascending towards the Cordillera Blanca, a long but scenic journey going through the Paron Valley, where huge granite cliffs tower high on all sides. You can go all the way to the lake by private transport, and then those who wish can follow the path that skirts the northern shores of the lake and leads to the Artesonraju base camp. This is the largest and one of the most beautiful lakes in the range, as it is surrounded by many impressive snow-capped peaks. Be aware that the water levels of the lake vary and it can be very low at times. TREKKING Easy to moderate treks SANTA CRUZ TREK (four days) – Undoubtedly the Cordillera Blanca’s most famous and popular trek. It is suitable for novice hikers, but good acclimatisation is essential before starting the trek. This trek deserves its fame; offering varied scenery and endless views of majestic snow-capped peaks, jewelled glacial lakes and gorgeous Andean valleys. For those with ample experience of trekking at high altitude, this trek is doable without a guide, but be sure to follow the national
The Huaraz Telegraph Get rewarded with fantastic views when hiking towards Lake Paron near Caraz
park rules especially to carry all your rubbish out of the park. Ask in town for directions before heading out, as although easy to follow, the path is not signposted. Departures for this trek in an all-inclusive organised group run daily in high season, but standards vary from one company to the next. The trek can be completed in three or four days, but if you do it in four days you will miss the side trip to the Alpamayo base camp and Lake Arhuaycocha, which is undoubtedly one of the trek’s highlights.
reaching the superb Lake Akilpo just before the pass. Then you go down to the Ishinca Valley. This trek is perfect for fit, experienced hikers looking for an alternative to the Santa Cruz trek. Good acclimatisation is essential before starting the trek.
OLLEROS – CHAVIN TREK also known as LLAMA TREK (three days) – A less popular trek, it mainly crosses vast expanses of puna, following ancient pre-Inca and Inca paths that lead to the village of Chavin. There are no glacial lakes and few snow-capped mountain views during this trek, but you will come across isolated communities.
ISHINCA – COJUP TREK (three days) – This trek is vastly different to all the others, because it includes a glacier traverse requiring the use of equipment such as crampons and ropes. Bringing you much closer to the giant icy peaks of the Cordillera Blanca, the views are simply spectacular. This trek is only suitable for very fit and experienced hikers, but does not require any mountaineering technical knowledge. Thorough acclimatisation is essential as you will go well over 5000m. It is possible to include a summit climb to Mount Ishinca (5530m) during this trek.
Moderate to challenging treks
QUILCAYHUANCA – COJUP TREK (three days) – A stunning trek which goes through some less-visited, but none the less stunning valleys of the Cordillera Blanca. It is a much tougher trek than the Santa Cruz for two reasons. First there are no donkeys to carry all the equipment, so you will have to carry a backpack weighing around 15kg (the weight depends on the number of porters accompanying the group). Second, because the pass is much higher. At 5050m the path leading up to it is very steep, rocky and generally not well trodden. The way down from the pass is even steeper and more challenging. This trek is perfect for fit, experienced hikers who wish to experience peace and tranquillity. Good acclimatisation is essential before starting the trek.
HUAYHUASH TREK (eight or ten days) – The Huayhuash full circuit trek is considered as one of the world’s most beautiful. It is a trek that requires good physical condition and acclimatisation, because it crosses many high passes (eight passes minimum ranging from 4650m to 5050m) and the campsites are all above 4100m. Trekkers are rewarded with endless breath-taking views of stunning glacial lakes, pristine valleys and icy peaks, which can be extremely close. There are many alternatives possible for the itinerary, but the most common group departures are for the eight day and ten day treks. Those with more time and wishing to explore less visited valleys of the range can do the trek in as many as 15 days, and take the more challenging high trail. Those with limited time can do the four day Mini Huayhuash trek, which visits one of the range’s most beautiful locations: the Lake Jahuacocha area.
AKILPO – ISHINCA TREK (three days) – This trek is similar in difficulty to the Quilcayhuanca trek, although donkeys can be used (they do not go over the pass but go back and around). The pass is very high at 5050m and the path leading up to it is steep and not well marked. The trek starts at the pre-Inca ruins of Honcopampa, and then goes up the Akilpo Valley through beautiful forests of local quenual trees, before
CEDROS – ALPAMAYO TREK (seven or ten days) – This trek is less popular than the Huayhuash trek, and also very different, although not less beautiful. It is probably a bit more challenging too, even though the passes are not as high (eight passes on the full circuit ranging from
The Huaraz Telegraph APRIL 2013 4400m to 4850m), but the trails leading up to the passes are much steeper. You are unlikely to meet many trekkers and will come across several isolated Quechua communities who still follow a traditional lifestyle. The highlight of this trek is undoubtedly the view from Jancarurish of Mount Alpamayo, known as the World’s most Beautiful Mountain thanks to its near perfect pyramid of ice. You will not see as many glacial lakes and close-up views of glaciers on this trek as on the Huayhuash trek, but the landscape is much more varied and the isolation a real bonus. The trek can be done in seven days starting in Hualcayan or Huancarhuas and finishing in Pomabamba, allowing one worthwhile rest day in Jancarurish, but take into account that you need a full day to travel back to Huaraz from Pomabamba (night buses are not recommended due to frequent robberies on this route). For those with more time, you can add extra days by joining on to the Santa Cruz trek at the end, making it a ten or 11 day itinerary if finishing in Cashapampa, or a nine day itinerary if finishing in Vaqueria. The trek can be done in reverse, but it is tougher. MOUNTAINEERING Keep in mind that glacier conditions change from year to year, so what an easy walk across a glacier one year may be a difficult passage through crevasses the following year. So make sure to check the latest conditions in town before setting out on any of these expeditions. Non-technical climbs These expeditions are suitable for people with no previous mountaineering experience; however, even though they are often referred to as trekking peaks these expeditions, although not technical, are harder than a trek, due to the fact that you wake up at midnight, walk in the dark and use heavy equipment such as mountain boots and crampons. If you are fit and have experience of trekking at high altitude and want to experience being on a glacier, then one of these peaks is for you. MOUNT PISCO, 5752m (three days) – This expedition offers some of the best summit views of any peak of the Cordillera Blanca, and for that reason is very popular. Crossing the moraine takes two to three hours and is considered the most challenging part of the expedition. It is possible to include a hike to Lake 69 on the last day. MOUNT VALLUNARAJU, 5686m (two days) – This expedition can be quite challenging, because no donkeys can be used, you have to carry a 15kg backpack up a steep path to moraine camp on day one. It is very popular due to its proximity to Huaraz making it a short expedition. MOUNT ISHINCA, 5530m (three days) – This peak is mostly used as an acclimatisation peak for those wanting to climb the higher and more technical Mount Tocllaraju, which is situated in the same valley.
Tourist Information MOUNT TUCO, 5479m (two days) – A very seldom climbed peak, although it offers a relatively short and easy ascent, as well as the chance to see the rare Puya Raimondii plant. Intermediate level climbs These expeditions are suitable for people with some mountaineering experience. It is recommended to climb a 5000m+ peak before starting any of these expeditions in order not to suffer from altitude sickness. MOUNT TOCLLARAJU, 6034m (four days) – This expedition is perfect for those who have climbed a non-technical summit previously and want to take the next step in the mountaineering world by trying something more technical. It includes the ascent of two 60m high ice walls requiring the use of ice axes. The relatively short summit ascent makes it a perfect first 6000m+ peak. MOUNT CHOPICALQUI, 6354m (four days) – This expedition has the same technical difficulty level as Mount Tocllaraju, but it is a more difficult climb due to the much longer summit route and higher altitude. It includes the ascent of
from a technical point a view, this is an extremely tough expedition suitable only for mountaineers with plenty of experience, because of the difficult climbing conditions (crevasses, risk of avalanche, extreme cold and altitude). Do not underestimate the difficulty of this climb. Technical climbs These expeditions are suitable for people with plenty of technical mountaineering experience. It is recommended to climb a 5000m+ peak before starting any of these expeditions in order not to suffer from altitude sickness. MOUNT ALPAMAYO, 5947m (seven days) – This is a serious and technically challenging expedition requiring the ascent of a 470m high ice wall. Excellent crampon and ice axe techniques are essential. Please note that the ascent from base camp to high camp is particularly challenging, given that you need to climb up a 60m high ice wall (at a 55 degree incline), carrying your backpack. Known as the World’s Most Beautiful Mountain, each year Alpamayo attracts many mountaineers from the
TIP OF THE MONTH The Maria Josefa Path
This path goes from the Llanganuco Lake (Chinancocha) through beautiful forests of the native quenual trees and leads a few kilometers further down on the main road. The hike along this path is suitable for all given that it is downhill and short (it takes approximately 1 hour). During the hike you will follow a river and hike mostly through enchanted forests, so called because of the twisted appearance of the quenual trees, it is like stepping into another world, the vegetation being so lush, almost tropical. A plethora of flora, especially in the month of April, including many species of orchids, as well as many bromeliads, and birdlife are found along the path, and if you are lucky you can even spot some white tailed deers. At times the path emerges from the forest to come out amidst impressive towering granite cliffs. Waterfalls and huge granite boulders that have fallen from Mount Huascaran during the earthquake of 1970 are also
17 and ice axe techniques are essential, as well as an excellent physical condition. Two ascent routes are possible, either from Lake Paron or from the Santa Cruz Valley. ROCK CLIMBING & BOULDERING Rock climbing and bouldering spots are plentiful around Huaraz. All types of climbing, at all levels, with many different types of rock, fantastic views, and no chance to get bored! Check with local climbers or travel agencies specialising in rock climbing for a detailed list of the necessary equipment and help with logistics. CHANCOS – Located 32km northeast of Huaraz in the foothills of the Cordillera Blanca, Chancos is the perfect place for beginners and climbers with limited experience. After climbing, a good option is to visit the Chancos Hot Springs which are situated an easy ten-minute walk away. LOS OLIVOS – This is the closest climbing spot to Huaraz, situated only three kilometres from the town centre. It features a large number of equipped sport- climbing routes in five different sectors, as well as several boulders, suitable for climbers with some experience. From here you get an amazing panoramic view of the town of Huaraz and the Cordillera Blanca. ANTACOCHA – Situated 35km south of Huaraz in the Cordillera Negra it is one of the few places in the area offering long routes with a variety of difficulty levels, suitable for climbers with limited or a lot of experience alike. The 180m high wall towers high above Lake Antacocha. This place offers a magnificent vantage point of the Cordillera Blanca, especially at sunset. HATUN MACHAY – Located 104km south of Huaraz at 4300m high in the Cordillera Negra, this stunning rock forest is a paradise for rock climbing and bouldering with some 250 equipped sport-climbing routes and countless boulders, suitable for all levels. It is also a great place for hiking, as it offers some amazing viewpoints with views of the Cordillera Blanca, Huayhuash and the Pacific Ocean, as well as many caves with ancient rock paintings and carvings dating back to 10,000BC.
The Huaraz Telegraph
encountered along the way. The path takes its name from Maria Josefa, a young girl from Huanuco, whose beauty was unequalled. The local legend tells that she was married to a man she loved, but unfortunately he died soon after. She was then forced by her father to get engaged to a man she didn’t love, and so one day she decided to flee. After walking for six days, she eventually went across the Portachuelo Pass and down to the Llanganuco Lakes, but she was followed by the man who soon caught up with her. Trying to escape from him, Maria fell to her death in the river, which runs along the path now named in her honour. two 60m high ice walls requiring the use of ice axes. It offers one of the Cordillera Blanca’s most beautiful ascent routes along its southwest ridge. MOUNT HUASCARAN SOUTH, 6768m (seven days) – Although not very difficult
world over. MOUNT ARTESONRAJU, 6025m (five days) – This is a mentally, physically and technically demanding climb requiring the ascent of a 600m high ice wall, at an incline of 50 degrees. Excellent crampon
THE SPHYNX – Also known as The Colossus of the Andes it is situated 90km northeast of Huaraz in the Paron Valley and is considered to be one of the most amazing granite rock walls in South America, offering a variety of traditional climbing routes with superb views of the snow-capped summits of the Cordillera Blanca surrounding it. Given its extreme altitude (5325m), it is essential to be well acclimatised before setting off on this climb and to have sufficient experience in traditional climbing. It takes an average of three days to complete the climb. Information provided by Marie Timmermans from Quechua Andes Trekking Agency (Please visit www.quechuandes.com)
18 Continuation of page 3.
The Huaraz Telegraph and El Fogón sign peace treaty and sponsor deal Last year, in the first edition of The Huaraz Telegraph, we published a story about a matchstick in a pasta meal. Looking back, maybe it was not the smartest move to publish an article about a tiny mistake in a great restaurant in the first edition of a free newspaper in a city that depends on tourists! On January 24th the editor of this newspaper plucked up the courage and paid the owner of this fine chicken restaurant a visit offering him his apologies. Owner José acknowledged: “I wasn’t aware of the article but I appreciate the fact that the editor has come here to apologise and I have to admit, I actually like the newspaper. My (Peruvian) wife speaks English, German, French and Spanish so she will be able to translate the text for me but The Huaraz Telegraph shouldn´t worry about it anymore.” Because José was in such a good mood and saw the benefits of backing the paper, the next day The Huaraz Telegraph and El Fogón signed a three month sponsorship deal that will last until the end of June 2013. Café Turmanyé relocated At the end of December last year Café Turmanyé closed its doors for the low season, later we found out that this might not be the case, and they might have shut down for good. All this is not true so states owner Gladys: “We are looking for a building nearer to the centre but are struggling to find the balance between rent and location. Rents are so high in Huaraz; this could be an article for your newspaper! Our shop Tejidos Turmanyé on the Plaza de Armas is still open so people can buy woolen sweaters and other articles made by underprivileged Peruvian mothers that are given a chance to brighten and better their future by working in our atelier.”
Brief Local News ety of backgrounds. We have had many Peace-Corp volunteers, miners, mountain guides, local business owners, academics, healers and musicians who join the game for periods of a few months to several years.” The Frisbees and a cooler of bottled water are provided by the café. Seth released Seth Roberts, originally from Alaska, was released from prison earlier this year after being held for 39 months. The Huaraz Telegraph is trying to set up an exclusive interview for a future edition. Website The Huaraz Telegraph finally online A year too late but the official website of The Huaraz Telegraph is finally online. After months of hard work the paper can now be accessed from anywhere in the world. Apart from tourist information and useful links, the best part is that you can read previous editions online, even if you are not in Huaraz. From now on, The Huaraz Telegraph is at your fingertips on your phone or tablet at www.thehuaraztelegraph.com
I think that these are quite impressive numbers that might be interesting for you and potential advertisement clients. Therefore it would be great if you let us know when the first Huaraz Telegraph this year is published, so we can add it.” Expat-Chronicles and THT join forces. Colin Post is the owner of this controversial, but very entertaining blog. He states on his page: “(I am an) American living between Colombia and Peru since 2008. I studied international business. I moved to Latin America to make my career in an emerging market. I get in trouble sometimes. I say offensive things. If you don’t like it, I suggest you find another blog.” Colin’s creative writing style and search for interesting topics make The Huaraz Telegraph and Expat-Chronicles an interesting combination. Moreover, because not everyone in the 21st century has the time to access the Internet regularly, we will be publishing one of his articles every now and again. In return, some of our articles are also available on Colin’s website.
The Huaraz Telegraph Most of our previous published articles can be found at www.thehuaraztelegraph.com
Café Andino renovated American owner Chris Benway has renovated the third floor interior of his Café Andino. A newly designed and remodeled bar will provide customers an even better atmosphere when on stopover at this famous and outstanding café which can be found on Lucar y Torre 538 close to the Rodrigues bus station (former Cial).
Limaeasy and The Huaraz Telegraph intensify collaboration The first contact between Limaeasy.com and The Huaraz Telegraph was in 2012 and has since increased and improved, and as a result The Huaraz Telegraph is happy to announce that all previous editions of The Huaraz Telegraph can also be found on their website – http:// www.limaeasy.com/stay-connected/newspapers-peru.
Frisbee at California still popular Since the first games were played in the spring of 2004, California Café continues to organise this great outdoor game. The field used for the spectacle is in Huanchac, (site of the famous boulders – an about fifteen minute taxi ride from the centre of Huaraz) and shared transport is arranged from the café for interested people. The Huaraz Ultimate Frisbee game takes place every Friday and according to owner Tim: “Through the years there have been long-term players who hail from a vari-
The Huaraz Telegraph is also proud to be mentioned among such reputable national newspapers as El Comercio, Peru21 and La Republica. Eva Papke from Germany, editor and gerente publicaciones of Limaeasy.com, quickly noticed the benefits of an agreement between both parties. “Since we published The Huaraz Telegraph on LimaEasy.com, I think on the 12th of January 2013, already 65 visitors had a look at The Huaraz Telegraph detail page where 22 used the short URL. And 30 actually read as well the online version of the newspaper. Personally
Feedback from Italy on Facebook The Huaraz Telegraph is like CNN; going beyond borders. On our Facebook page we received a like and the following message from Roberto Bortolotto: “Dear Editor, the best compliments for your interesting newspaper. Information about local heritage (history, art, culture, tourism) is welcome. Huaraz is one of the important cities in the Peruvian Andes. Good work. Greetings from Italy, just south of Venice.” Like! Middle page now in full-colour The Huaraz Telegraph underwent some changes compared to last year and as faithful readers might have noticed, the middle page has changed into full colour for the 2013 season. A quote from our sales director: “We noticed that some businesses were willing to maximize their exposure and found our middle page limited because it only counted two colours (red and black). Therefore we contacted our printing company and signed a new deal. The result is that instead of having
The Huaraz Telegraph APRIL 2013 two pages in full-colour, we now have not only our front and back but also our middle page in full-colour. This should give businesses more opportunities to advertise their services.” Some Huaraz streets finally upgraded In the May edition we published an article about the fact that the streets in Huaraz were a mess because they were undergoing a four year refurbishment process. More than a year later we are happy but also slightly embarrassed to announce that 28 de Julio, Jirón Santa Rosa and Psje Santa Cecilia are finally completed. Last year’s announcement in The Huaraz Telegraph led to public concern and a wigging by the Huaraz Government in the name of Alex Cordeiro who is head of public relations. In an open letter published in the June edition of The Huaraz Telegraph, the government of Huaraz had to explain to the concerned citizens and visitors of Huaraz about the (then invisible) work in progress. The Mayor of Huaraz, Vladimir Meza then stated on the 23rd of May in 2012 after visiting some neighbourhoods: “This visit has been very healthy because, for me, it was an excellent opportunity to get in contact with some concerned inhabitants of Huaraz and receive feedback about the condition of the streets.” Ending his letter he had this to say: “Thanks for your attention and we apologize for any inconvenience caused. Sincerely, the Government of Huaraz.” Unfortunately, many other streets still look like a dump. Universidad Cesar Vallejo becomes fifth university in Huaraz Education is money which must be the reason why now there are no more than five universities in the little city of Huaraz. In 1977 Universidad Nacional Santiago Antúnez de Mayolo became the first national university though their reputation has gone down a lot due to student strikes in 2012 and the beginning of 2013. The UNASAM is now popularly also known as Huelgasam because of those strikes. On January 24th Carlos Gallardo, a student at the UNASAM, confirmed on Channel N that there were students having links with the Movimiento por la Aministía y Derechos Fundamentales (better known as MOVADEF), which is political wing of the forbidden Communist Party Sendero Luminoso (Shining Path). In 2004 Universidad Los Ángeles de Chimbote opened its doors followed, by Universidad San Pedro in 2006. Two years later Universidad Alas Peruanas (Lima), came to Huaraz and in 2013 Cesar Vallejo. Students have now even bigger decisions to make when finishing their high school. Help us publish the news! If you have the feeling we have missed something important which has not yet been mentioned in The Huaraz Telegraph, please contact us at email@example.com
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Places of interest
Jangas (2825m) Here lies the parish of Don Bosco, an Italian Roman Catholic priest who in the 1800s established schools and carpentry and woodcarving workshops for orphans and street children. Jangas is a charming village not far from Tarica, and Anta airport.
around Huaraz. Here we present a guide to the villages around Huaraz in the Callejon de Huaylas and Conchucos. Most of them are easily accessible by microbus (colectivo). Ask your hostel owner or landlord where to catch the colectivos in Huaraz.
Tarica (3600m) This drive-through town is part of the conventional tour towards the Llanganuco Lakes and is best known for its many roadside shops selling handicrafts and potteries.
Callejon de Conchucos The Callejon de Conchucos, which runs almost parallel to the Callejon de Huaylas to the east of the Cordillera Blanca, is less accessible and, therefore, less frequented by visitors, but it is equally beautiful. The Callejon de Conchucos is known mostly for the old Chavín de Huántar Ceremonial Complex. It offers a variety of off-the-beaten-path villages complemented by local festivals, typical music and customs. Take enough cash because most villages in the Callejon de Conchucos have no ATMs. San Marcos (2960m) San Marcos is located nine kilometres north of Chavín de Huántar, in the Mosna valley. Here you can expect basic tourist services as well as spectacular mountainbiking options. The Mosna Valley is also known as Magnolia Paradise because of the many flowers that enrich the area. At the nearby Antamina mine you could find fossilised remains of dinosaurs. Huari (3150m) The province capital is located 152km from Huaraz; about four hours by public transport. It is famous for its gastronomy and the María Jiray Waterfall. Seven kilometres from Huari is Lake Purhuay which also offers camping, trekking and mountain-biking facilities. Also worth visiting is the archaeological centre of Marca Jirca. Chacas (3359m) Less-known hikes to Huari or Yanama are accessible from this little village (Yanama is also the start of the Santa Cruz trek). Chacas offers tourists an excellent opportunity to experience the Andean lifestyle when visiting the main plaza. Flanked by the colourful windows and doors of the white painted houses;
The Huaraz Telegraph Not mentioned in the text below but Monterrey (6km from Huaraz) also has its hot springs
many with complex wooden balconies. There is a direct bus route to Huaraz with Transporte Renzo. San Luis (3131m) Capital city of the province of Carlos Fermín Fitzcarrald, it will take no less than six hours to reach this township from Cátac. Famous for the archaeological site of Cashajirca located three kilometres north of San Luis, and the beautiful Sanctuary of Pomallucay, this church offers its home to the image of Lord Justice Pomallucay. Other villages in the Callejon de Conchucos worth considering visiting are Pomabamba, Piscobamba and Llamellín. Callejon de Huaylas
Carhuaz (2645m) Famous for its local ice-cream and home to a lively Sunday market were countryside inhabitants sell various handicrafts, fruits and typical products from the region such as Manjar Blanco (blancmange). Marcará (2950m) This village mainly serves as a drivethrough between Huaraz and Yungay. It is famous for its baños termales (hot springs) of Chancos. Weekdays are a lot quieter; at the weekends locals from the surrounding villages descend and the pools tend to become overcrowded. Expect the temperature of the pools to be around 70°C.
Yungay (2500m) This is where tourists get the best views of the Huascarán, which is the highest mountain in Peru. Nowadays the old city of Yungay is a national cemetery because of the earthquake of 1970 that hit central Peru – killing 25,000 people in the city alone. The new town was rebuilt 1.5km north of the destroyed city. Yungay has the best access to the Llanganuco Lakes, Laguna 69 and Yanama where you could start the Santa Cruz trek. Caraz (2250m) Caraz is 32km from Paron Lake, the largest lake in the Cordillera Blanca, and is surrounded by 15 snowy peaks. Canyon del Pato – a rock formation formed by the movement of the Cordillera Blanca – is also in its region.
The Callejon de Huaylas stretches for 150km in the Ancash Region of Peru with the Santa River running along the valley floor. The Huaylas Valley is more crowded and most conventional tours run over paved roads. Recuay (3422m) If you have ever wondered how Huaraz looked before the earthquake of 1970, then visit Recuay. The structure of the narrow streets and adobe houses (houses built from sod) give a good impression. From the Bedoya Bridge, on the right hand side, starts the 183km road towards Olleros and Huaripampa, which is also the beginning of the Llama Trek towards Chavín de Huántar.
The Huaraz Telegraph The entrance of the cemetery of Yungay with the Huascarán in the background
20 Illegal card-skimmers found at ATM machines in Huanchaco In Huanchaco there are only three ATMs, all on the same road close to the police station. During the period November 2012 to February 2013 several tourists have had problems with the machines copying their card information, and later having money withdrawn from their accounts. The withdrawals appear as if they were made in Lima and in countries outside of Peru.
They have since moved the Multired ATM into the office of the police station, and checked the other two. Today (at the moment of writing this article) the Globalnet machine is closed for maintenance, and Banco Continental is still a little unsecure and, since it is in a room, difficult to keep an eye on. The policeman added that there are now cameras outside the ATMs so when or if a tourist has a problem with one of the ATMs there would be a video clip
From ancient ruins to perfect waves Known internationally as the City of Eternal Spring, because of the yearround warm climate and sunny days, Trujillo is a city in north-western Peru perched on the banks of the Moche River. Boasting a population of almost one million, this capital of culture is famous for its Marinera dancing, gastronomy and Peruvian Paso horses. Trujillo is steeped in history, a mere 5km west of the city is Chan Chan; a city that dates back to 850AD and is made entirely from adobe, bricks fashioned from sand, water, clay and straw. Chan Chan is the largest of its kind in the world and was home to over 30,000 inhabitants. Visitors can see this and other archaeological sites of pre-Columbian civilizations and marvel at the ingenuity and talent of the ancient indigenous people. A beautiful bright and vibrant city, Trujillo is home to a thriving artistic community. It holds many festivals throughout the year, including the International Book Festival that attracts more than 100,000 visitors, and is billed as one of the most important cultural events in the Peruvian calendar.
The Huaraz Telegraph One of the ATMs in Huanchaco
Police officer Daniel Cortes says: ¨We have had many problems with the machines in Huanchaco, it is important that the tourists inform us as well so we can act upon the problem and prevent it from happening to other tourists.¨ It is very common for tourists not to trust the local police’s ability to do anything; therefore, the victims only report the problem to their own bank or insurance company in their respective country, resulting in the local police never hearing anything about the matter. Officer Cortes added: ¨How are we supposed to protect our locals and tourists if we do not find out about the problems happening around our area? The last time we had someone report one of the machines in Huanchaco was July 2012¨.
available to help identify any wrongdoing. Anyone travelling to Huanchaco is advised to take extra precautions when using the machines. If they suspect that the equipment has been tampered with, or they see something suspicious they should report it immediately to the local police. In the unfortunate event that they are targeted at a later date they should get in touch with the Huanchaco police as soon as reasonably possible, giving as much information as they can. Tourists have also complained about using an ATM in Trujillo only to discover some time later that they had been issued with counterfeit banknotes from that same ATM machine. Text: R. Amad Al Sadi Picture: R. Amad Al Sadi
This historical city is a jewel in the crown of Peru, and a destination that should be on everyone’s visit list. Those of you who want to combine history with adventure need only travel 12km northwest of Trujillo to Huanchaco, a popular summer holiday destination offering a lot in a small area. Known the world over as a surfer’s paradise, it is the birthplace of the caballito de totora, the watercraft made from reeds harvested from the Huanchaco swamps and used by fisherman in the region for the past 3,000 years, and still popular today. Some believe that this is also the first evidence of surfing since the design is perfect for riding the waves back into shore. Huanchaco is also famous for ceviche, a seafood dish comprising of raw fish that has been marinated in lime or lemon juice and chilli peppers. The tranquil beaches, choice of restaurants, relaxed atmosphere and historical interests make Huanchaco an ideal destination if you want a diversion from the hustle and bustle of Lima.
The Huaraz Telegraph APRIL 2013 If you like culture and ancient history, you should definitaly consider visiting the two most famous Huacas near Huanchaco; Huaca del Sol and Huaca del Sol. The Huaca del Sol – Despite its history of destruction during the colonial period, the stepped pyramid called Huaca del Sol still measures 1,250 feet in length and towers 135 feet above the surrounding plain. This makes it the tallest adobe structure of the Americas. lt is calculated that around 50 million sun-dried, mud bricks (or adobes), were used in its construction. Like its counterpart on the opposite side of the plain, the Huaca de la Luna, is oriented roughly 20 degrees northeast. Although the earlier history of the building remains a riddle, it was probably begun early during the Moche period. The enormous cut on the west face was made back in 1602 by ambitious Spaniards looking for treasure. They intentionally diverted the small Santa Catalina River, which washed away more than half the huaca. In colonial times, it was common practice to loot prehispanic sites in search of gold, and often such looting was organized by formal companies. This stepped pyramid is made up of four major platforms that rise from the northeast, where an access ramp may have stood. Towards the southwest there is a fourth, lower and narrower platform. Unlike later monumental architecture, it is entirely made up of sun-dried adobe bricks. The sections, or panels, in which the bricks were laid are clearly visible in the badly-eroded eastern side. Many of the adobes have their original marks, such as imprints of hands, feet, dots, crosses, etc. These marks have been interpreted by researchers as accounting tools to distinguish different groups of brick manufacturers, which thus facilitated tracking the payment of “taxes”. The name “Huaca del Sol” is really a misnomer, as there is no evidence to connect the building with any solar cult. There are, however, no indications as to the original name of the site, which must have been in the now-extinct Muchik language, which was spoken in
The Huaraz Telegraph APRIL 2013 the region in the fifteenth century. The Huaca del Sol Overlooking the Pyramid of the Sun lies the Pyramid or Temple of the Moon, another major component of the urban and ceremonial center of the prehispanic settlement of Moche. Ongoing excavations by Peruvian and foreign scholars are revealing the complexity of this fascinating structure. Three platforms and four open courts or plazas take up most of the assemblage, which is built up against the lower slopes of the Cerro Blanco, the White Mountain. Overall, the site measures 950 feet from north to south and 690 feet from east to west. Treasure
The Huaraz Telegraph Details of Chan Chan
hunters also dug impressive tunnels into its eastern flank and inadvertently exposed beautiful polychrome reliefs, sadly now destroyed. Many Moche burials, some probably dedicatory but others as late as Chimú (about 1100-1470 AD), have been excavated inside the otherwise massive adobe platform and have yielded many artifacts, such as elaborate ceramics and metal headgear. Very tall and wide walls delimit each of the four courts, some of the which have narrow cane and pole roofs running
along the sides. Access from one sector of the site to another was clearly channeled down corridors and through narrow entrances. Painted reliefs pertaining to different construction phases, at least four of which have been identified so far, have been located in several of the platforms and plazas. For example, the head of the “degollador” or sacrificer, a motif also found at the site of EL BRUJO, decorates the walls of platform I in the southwest corner of the site. Another very fine example of Moche mural decorations found at La Luna was the mural referred to above, which depicts “The Rebellion of the Artifacts” Large-scale human sacrifice at Huaca de la Luna became evident when archaeologists uncovered the remains of at least 34 sacrificed adult male individuals in the soft clay of the southeastern court at the foot of the mountain. They had been bound and judging by the type of wounds that had been inflicted were probably captured in battle. The sacrifice represents a single ritual event linked by archaeologist Steve Bourget to a season of torrential rains caused by an extreme case of the maritime El Niño phenomenon, which strikes the coast of South America at irregular intervals and which may have caused the final abandonment of this site. The open space between the two pyramids has recently been found to have been an area of intense manufacturing activity as well as an area of high population density. Ceramic workshops and large-scale maize-beer production are evidence. Intensive textile production and metalworking may also have taken place there as well. The highly specialized groups of workers in charge of these activities were probably subservient to the high-ranking individuals in charge of the administration of both the ceremonies that took place at that site and the prosecution of wars. Text: Isabelle Walker Text Sun and Moon Temples by Inkanatura Travel. http://www.inkanatura.com or call +5112035000 (Lima).
22 A surfer’s paradise One sight you are guaranteed to see when visiting Huanchaco is the army of surfers marching along the sidewalk all with their trusty boards thrust under their arms, heading out to catch a wave or two. Male, female, old and young this sport is enjoyed by a vast number of locals and tourists alike. And since gaining the title of World Surfing Reserve by the Save the Whales Coalition in 2012, Huanchaco is set to be a surfer’s paradise for many years to come. Andrés Touzet Cortes, also known as Chino, a 27-year-old, Peruvian pro surfer, and a journalist for Olas Peru answered a couple of questions about surfing in Huanchaco. Why do you Surf? ¨It is the only thing that makes me feel alive and keeps me excited. You are in tune with nature, a very spiritual experience that helps you to maintain balance. I love magic and for me surfing is magic.¨
The Huaraz Telegraph APRIL 2013
What is so magical about surfing in Huanchaco? ¨We are surfing on the same waves as the Moche, it´s a magical and cultural experience as well! Sharing the same waves with the locals. You simply become a better surfer surfing on these waves.¨ What do you mean by ¨simply become a better surfer on these waves¨? ¨Well! You get several long waves that allow you time to plan and think before surfing. Which wave should I pick? How and when to stand? It also allows you to change the rhythm of surfing, get a lot of opportunities with different waves.¨ So you talked about surfing with the locals, how about surfing with the tourists? ¨The waves are for everyone, at all different levels. Many tourists come here to catch some waves and have fun. You always have to remember though that there is a local order and you have to adapt to it. There are cases when a tourists don´t understand the order and
The Huaraz Telegraph Andrés on a wave with Huanchaco as the backdrop (Picture by Jonathan Dennis Sather)
then they won´t have fun. It is an easy beach to surf on as long as you respect the locals.¨ How does one “respect the locals”? ¨The locals always have the right to choose waves. There is an established protocol — most experienced local to the least experienced tourists normally.¨ ¨As long as you respect the protocol and don´t paddle into someone else’s wave you will be fine. Try to no put yourself in the position where you will not get the waves you want. If you are going to take a wave that is not yours then you will have to at least impress really hard.¨ ¨Respecting the rules and getting along with everyone will give you more waves.¨ Where are the best waves? ¨For beginners the curve just north of the pier, if you are looking for a bigger wave, you will have to enter from the Boceron, which is further up north away from the pier.¨ ¨When you are a little more advanced and have surfed for a while you can take the bigger waves by Mancorita or Punta Generosa. The best way would be to enter from the entrance of Huanchaco, Sankella, by the club Mr Bongo and the left waves will take you in through Sankelio, El Mirador and you will end up at Mancorita or Punta Generosa just before the pier.¨
The Huaraz Telegraph Andrés Touzet Cortes (Picture By Hannah Conley)
¨If you are an adventurous soul then you can aim for surfing by the pier, on the southern side, not recommended if you are not an experienced surfer since it’s
quite dangerous. The waves are pretty powerful and the current is strong, you will end up washed up on the shore. If you do enter on this side it is best to use board that is a couple of inches bigger than your normal one.¨ I feel like I can now surf the waves knowing what to do and what not to! Do you? Remember the words of Chino ¨the privilege of taking waves depends on how well you surf!¨ Fun Facts • Everyone who surfs has a nickname, just like Chino figure out yours before you are handed one you won’t like • If you want to have the waters for yourself wake up early and you will enjoy the waves solo • Huanchaco was reclaimed as a world surfer reserve in 2012 • The beach in Huanchaco is very sensitive to tidal changes; it either is really high or really low • Bring a wetsuit the water is cold – predominantly southern swells coming from Chile makes the Pacific a little colder here than the other northern beaches • The junior Latin American champion is from Huanchaco • If you want to learn how to surf there are many people offering lessons, many places offer a discount for volunteers. Text: R. Amad Al Sadi
“Surf Hostel Meri with Yenth Ccora Surfboards in front of the surf points single, double, twin and dorm rooms with hot water wifi, guest kitchen, car parking, camping cafe with home made cakes and special coffees surf school & surf shop offering; surf lessons, board rental, board repair and surf gear such as leashes, fins, grips, wetsuits, wax custom-made surfboards by local shaper Yenth Ccora yoga classes handcrafts & beachwear boutique Avenida La Rivera 720, Huanchaco Tel: 044 462264 firstname.lastname@example.org, email@example.com”
The Huaraz Telegraph APRIL 2013 Get your body grooving with this mini-guide to Peruvian dances Marinera Peru is a country renowned for its vibrant culture, music and festivals, and in January the city of Trujillo really comes to life with the famous Marinera Festival. Spectators are treated to a feast of colourful parades, live music and dance competitions. The festival’s main focus is on the Marinera dance, the national dance of Peru, a competition that attracts participants from across the country and tourists from all over the world. With its blend of Spanish, Moorish, Andean and
Salsa Almost everyone has heard of Salsa dancing, another popular dance of the Peruvian people. This is a fast-paced dance where the men wear loose fitting trousers and a brightly coloured long or short sleeved shirt. The women again are the real stars of the duo and wear colourful flattering figurehugging dresses. Every year in Cali the Salsodromo is held where Salsa students and musical acts from all over Latin America take part in a parade through the city. This week-long Salsa festival also features competitions and concerts. The colours music and atmosphere make for an experience not to be missed.
The Huaraz Telegraph Bridgette and Junior perform a dance at Milagro School Cerrito De La Virgen, Peru.
Gypsy influences, the dance is thought to date back to the times of the Incas. There are a number of variations of the dance – Marinera Limeña, Marinera Norteña and Marinera Serrana – and routines differ depending on their provenance, sometimes even involving Paso horses! The dance is a demonstration of romance and flirtation, where the couples perform a courting ritual with complex routines using handkerchiefs as props. The male dancers wear white trousers and ponchos and a large brimmed straw hat, whereas the women are dressed in brightlycoloured skirts with figure hugging bodices. While the men wear black patent shoes, the female performers always go barefoot.
Huayno Originating from Serrania, this dance is instigated by the man approaching the woman and either presenting his right arm or placing a handkerchief on her shoulder as an invitation to join him. Thought to have been an Inca funeral dance, it is now mainly performed at festivals. The dancing couples form a circle around the musicians and, although they never touch their partners, they carry brightly coloured bands or handkerchiefs that each person can hold during the routine. Again, this dance allows the women to shine in beautiful full skirts and blouses, embellished with gems and intricate embroidery. The men wear plain trousers with a brightly coloured Alpaca poncho.
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