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Let’s talk: Patrizia Sandretto Re Rebaudengo

A Journey to Dubrovnik

Ara Güler: the Eye of Istanbul

MO MEN TS


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the magazine

TABLE OF CONTENTS 4

Magical Dubrovnik: The Pearl of the Adriatic

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Photo Review: The Last Poet of Istanbul

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My Moments: Life is Beautiful

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Ethical Cappadocia: Green Acres

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The Yummy Side: Taste of Life

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Dress Local: Free Spirit

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Dress Local: Breathtaking Beauty

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Big Toys for Big Boys: Look Ahead!

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Big Toys for Big Boys: Think Charming

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Beauty Guru: Miraculous Treatment

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Forever Young: A new Concept of Beauty

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Things to Know: Datça Peninsula

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Adventures in the Wind: Sailing is a School of Life

52

My Moments Discovery: Travelling along the Equator

56

Bedtime Reading: After the Race

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Let's Talk: Patrizia Sandretto Re Rebaudengo

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Room with a View: Rome

46 C OV E R Photo: Giacomo Bretzel Location: Il Riccio Bodrum MyMoments is a biannual publication, printed in Italy, on Fedrigoni X-Per uncoated Paper, 120 gr. August 2018 C O N T AC T U S Mytha Hotel Anthology Head Office: + 39 06 3208041 marketing@mythahotels.com mythahotels.com C O N C E P T, PR O D U C T I O N A N D EXECU TION BY

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Holden Creative www.holden-creative.com PR I N T E D B Y Faenza Group www.faenzagroup.com

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contributors

Ara Güler Ara Güler calls himself (modestly) “a photojournalist” but he is also a poet and a storyteller. With his Leica camera, he captured magical moments in Istanbul where he was born in 1928. And he explains his view very clearly: “A photograph is not necessarily art. It is part of history. You are capturing history, using a machine to freeze historical moments”...

Sara Magro Travel and tourism are her daily bread. She has been travelling alone since she was 8 years old to follow knowledge, culture and a thrilling job. She still writes for magazines and newspapers, but she also believes in the Web as the most democratic hub for opinions and inspirations. She lives with her husband and 18-year old daughter in Milan, which has become as exciting as the coolest metropolis in the world.

Yannick Alléno From his family’s bistros to two Michelin 3-star restaurants, it's been a long road. But Yannick, now 50, has been a fast racer, with pit stops at Scribe, Le Meurice, Pavillon Ledoyen, all in Paris. The multi-starred chef today manages 16 restaurants worldwide.

Francesco Canonaco M.D. Professor Canonaco is the medical and scientifical director of the Capri Beauty Farm. He became a guru inventing and patenting The Leg School®. This program increases and improves blood circulation and fights capillary weakness.

Şebnem Denktaş Born and raised in Istanbul, she is a journalist and travel writer. As a media executive, she managed various magazines in Turkey such as L’Officiel, F1 Racing and Robb Report. Since her first trip to Africa when she was in her 20s, she has been fascinated by its wildlife. Today she crafts bespoke safaris, writes her adventures on her blog (www.especiallyafrica.com) and servers as editorial director of My Moments. Corrigendum In the previous issue we mispelled the name of our contributor Antonia Matarrese. Apologies!

Andrea Migliaccio Born on Ischia Island, he found his heart at L’Olivo** and Il Riccio*, the Capri Palace restaurants. Andrea’s art is to combine elevated cuisine from Campania region with modern excellence and service. He strongly believes in teamwork and in the best local produce. Don’t leave the Blue Island without tasting his famous tagliolini with lemon and shrimps. He oversees also the Assaje* Restaurant - inside Aldrovandi Villa Borghese in Rome, as well as Il Riccio in Bodrum and the Capri Restaurant in Zermatt.

Patrizia Sandretto Re Rebaudengo

Robert Holden

Contemporary art was love at first sight. With a degree in Economics and two children, Patrizia began collecting art in 1990. In 1995, she established her Foundation in Turin, Italy, and she holds influential positions at MoMA and the Tate Gallery ever since.

Photographer, traveller and environmentalist, his work revolves around the humanistic idea of travel. He is the author of the Brazilian story, a real magical adventure. His favourite quote belongs to Henry David Thoreau: “The question is not what you look at, but what you see.”

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EMRE DÖRTER

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magical dubrovnik

PROMENADE WITH A VIEW The Dalmation city dating to the 7th century with its fortified walls. Behind, Lokrum Island.

The

Pearl of the Adriatic Ancient city, turquoise sea, Dubrovnik offers everything you need from nature to culture

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A SPL A SH INTO THE SEA

ROBERT HOLDEN

Villa Dubrovnik, one of the seven properties belonging to Mytha Hotel Anthology, has a little beach surrounded by maritime pine trees, very near to the famous Sveti Jakov beach.


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The Mediterranean environment strikes you at once as lovely and laid-back. Even with your eyes closed, the blended fragrance of maritime pine, orange and lemon trees reveals your location better than any Google app. We're in the Dalmatian section of the Adriatic coast, in Dubrovnik, a city founded in the 7th century. In Croatian, Dubrovnik means “forest of oaks”, recalling the trees that, historically, covered nearby Mount Srd. The city, also known as the Pearl of the Adriatic, smells warm and salty and you can hear the background noise of happy bathers splashing in the sea. As Italian poet Carlo Rossi wrote: “It's a strait of blue sea with seagulls and carefree thoughts riding the waves.” Known as Ragusa under the Venetian dominion that lasted from the 13th to the late 14th centuries, Dubrovnik's city centre was declared a Unesco World Heritage Site in 1979. People here are especially friendly, and they are also freshfaced. This might be due to the clean air and also, maybe, to their use of the local herb Helichrysum Italicum, better known as curry-plant (although it is unrelated to the spice). Used in cosmetics or herbal teas, it ensures youth even for the middle-aged. A similar kind of beauty can be found in the city walls constructed between the 10th and the 17th centuries, one of the best defensive systems in Europe. To fully enjoy the fortifications, you'll want to follow the lovely and romantic steep streets that run along next to them. Along the Stradun thoroughfare, you'll be struck by the almost incandescent whiteness reflected off the Istria stone used for roads and important buildings. If you head up one of the side alleys, you'll continue climbing until you reach a very different area: here you'll find a moment of precious solitude, a rare experience ever since the Dalmatian city was chosen as the location for the popular Game of Thrones TV series. Whereas you'll find lots of tourists in the city's main streets (for a magical time to explore, try getting out around 7 a.m.), the alleys that climb up to the edges of the town are deserted. Here you'll find some plants on a windowsill here and there, some laundry hanging out to dry, the sound of indoor voices, the rattling of dishes: this quiet domestic soundscape marks the real beginning of your vacation. Carefully retrace your steps to head back to the hotel, making stops along the way. For instance, the boatman in Zlatarska Street uses pieces of driftwood to build miniature sail-boats, as lovely and poetic as messages in a bottle. His name is Igor Hajdarhodžić. In an attempt to preserve his culture, he leaves traces here and there, signs to be captured by only the most attentive eyes. On your way, be sure to stop by Clara's, a coral jewellery boutique. Here founder Vittorio Ceccarini, who comes from a long line of Milanese jewellers, has created a collection completely inspired by the local craftsmanship tradition of

magical dubrovnik

carving coral. Clara's is for kings, queens and, also, a little for everyone (www.clarastones.com). Now it's time to catch the local vaporetto ferry (Croatian has adopted many Italian words, like ciao) and go back to the hotel. At Villa Dubrovnik, one of the seven gems of Mytha Hotel Anthology, you'll find pure contemporary luxury. Plunged in nature. Seen from the sea the hotel embraces the cliff like a mermaid grasping her lover. You'll disembark on the little beach where, in the mornings, you'll delight in swimming in the clear blue sea, enjoying the water: a bit chilly but certainly bracing. Afterwards, laze in peace on a beach chair and sip a detox drink. For anyone who prefers to go on foot, it's a 15-minute walk on the pine-tree-lined road from the city centre to the hotel. You'll know you've arrived when you see an elevator of contemporary design (Zaha Hadid would have approved) that takes you up to the hotel. All 56 rooms (6 are suites) have sea views and are furnished in a comfort-based design style featuring lightcoloured wood and white details. You'll get the feeling you're sailing in a boat, maybe just you and your partner, like a couple of accomplices looking for new tonalities to colour your future together. The sensation is even stronger when admiring the view of Lokrum Island from your room's jacuzzi or the beach. Villa Dubrovnik is like the city: there is a certain boldness that is tied to this lifestyle oasis. It might be because, when the hotel opened its doors in 1961, it became the coast's most exclusive accommodation, and also because it was designed by Mladen Frka, Croatia's most renowned architect, who has perfectly combined construction and nature. Local taste is evident everywhere, even in the choice of the Franck brand coffee machine, and you'll often see paintings by Duško Šibl, an artist from Zagreb, whose works feature the sensuous curves of men and women's bodies. Inside the SPA, apart from (fantastic) massages with rose oil, there is a “farm-to-(massage) table” carob therapy (the tree is only a few yards away) as well as treatments with curry-plant. (You'll find the skin creams with its essence at the airport duty-free stores as well). For lunch at the Al Fresco Bar Giardino, the hotel restaurant, choose one of the tables close to the ancient Istria stone wall. Here Chef Giuseppe Somma – after eight years at the Capri Palace in Anacapri learning Italian and (perfect) Neapolitan cuisine from the Michelin-starred Andrea Migliaccio – experiments what the Mediterranean has to offer. The result is a delicious, light regional cuisine, characterised by such typically local dishes as pašticada. The same goes for wines like the 2016 Dalmatian Rusula rosé from Rizman Slivno. If you want to experience the view at sunset, taste a local prosciut at the roof-top Prosciutto Restaurant & Wine Bar. It's like being on a yacht ploughing the waves (without seasickness!). You'll be moved by the view of Lokrum Island but even more by Dubrovnik's first twinkling lights as it begins to prepare itself for the evening. Like a noblewoman seated at her beauty table touching up her make-up, the city becomes, with each darkening shade, ever more beautiful, until it reaches its culmination. A rough diamond in the night.

Blanca Scottsdale M Y MOME N T S 7


magical dubrovnik

A view from the walls of the city of Dubrovnik with its Venetian architecture and the Adriatic Sea with its typical turquoise colour. 8 M Y MO MEN T S

ROBERT HOLDEN

FA R F R O M THE M ADDING C R OW D


ROBERT HOLDEN

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ROBERT HOLDEN

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magical dubrovnik

GIACOMO BRETZEL

LOST IN T H E PA S T The bell tower in Istria stone and a woman selling local fabrics and crafts, typical souvenirs of the Dalmation city. M Y MOME N T S 11


ROBERT HOLDEN

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magical dubrovnik

TA K E I T EASY

ROBERT HOLDEN

Relax at Villa Dubrovnik and enjoy treatments at the Villa SPA. Dubrovnik seen from one of the 56 rooms, all with sea views.

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Golden Horn boat fisherman, 1962

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photo review

The

last poet of

Istanbul BY ŞEBNEM DENKTAŞ

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photo review

“And… one day at the end of a beautiful dusk the ship of old Istanbul set sail from the Bosphorus”

A

ra Güler modestly calls himself “just a photojournalist” but he is also a poet and a storyteller… who has created many plays and narratives. The famous Leica camera, which he claims is part of his body, has captured intense, magical moments that

can only be classified as visual poetry. He was born in Istanbul on the 16th of August 1928 and has devoted his life to the city, becoming known in the world of contemporary photography as “Istanbul's Eye” thanks to his black and white images of his beloved Istanbul. It is fair to say that Güler, without putting pen to paper, has told the story of the 20th century with his viewfinder. For him photography has a very different meaning from art. And he clearly explains his point of view on his work: “A photograph is not necessarily art. A photograph is part of history. You are capturing history, using a machine to freeze historical moments...” Ara Güler was introduced to theatre at an early age and later his love of visuals led him to work in film studios, only to realize that his real passion was not cinema but photography, and he changed direction yet again. He explains this decision as follows: “After a while, I realized I could best express myself through the visual world of photography. The things that I felt were missing in cinema, I could find through photographs. One particular moment... and by capturing it... I learned so much by taking photographs. When a person actually sees something they learn so much better than by merely reading about it, in my opinion. For me to learn I have to look at something from all sides. I look, I learn, I understand.”

Group of musicians in Beyoğlu, 1962. Opposite page: flying birds and barges in Golden Horn, 1956. Karaköy, 1957. A man painting the anchor of a boat, Karaköy, 1954. M Y MOME N T S 17


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photo review

A Bosphorus ferryboat setting sail from Kandilli at nightfall, 1965.

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photo review

House of photos Master photojournalist Ara Güler, is celebrating his 90th birthday by opening a museum to house his entire archive; a gift to the country where he was born and the world as a whole. The Ara Güler Museum opens on August 16th (the same day of his 90th birthday) in Istanbul and exhibit a wide range of images from his 70 years of working life: some of them already familiar, others which have never been shown before. A look at his photographs call to mind a statement he made: “this museum will certainly feed your soul: I believe a photograph captures one moment in life which in the future may be seen as something magical.”

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Later he began to forge his career on the world stage with his compulsion to capture memories. From the 1950s onwards he worked as a photojournalist for newspapers such as Yeni Istanbul and Hürriyet, then rising in popularity in Turkey. His work became successful and he began to receive offers from abroad. In 1956 Time Life, followed by Paris Match and Stern magazines in 1958, all published his photos from the Near East. At this stage his close friend, the legendary photographer Henri Cartier-Bresson recommended him to Magnum Photos and the agency began to sell Güler's images and reportages. Thanks to Magnum, his photographs and reports of Noah's Ark, Nemrut Da ı and Aphrodisias were read all over the world. In 1962, Ara Güler won the title of Master of Leica in Germany. In the same year Camera magazine, at that time the most important journal in the world of photography, devoted a whole edition to Ara Güler and his work. The publishing house Skira produced a book to mark the 90th birthday of Pablo Picasso entitled Picasso Metamorphosis and Unity with editions in English, French and German with all three editions featuring Güler's photographs on the cover. Picasso was by no means the only famous person he photographed... he also took portraits of Bertrand Russell, Salvador Dali, Tennessee Williams, Marc Chagall, Louis Aragon, William Saroyan, Winston Churchill, Sophia Loren, Brigitte Bardot, Dustin Hoffman and Alfred Hitchcock. He regrets never had the opportunity to photograph Albert Einstein, Jean-Paul Sartre and Charlie Chaplin. As the world applauded the “art” of this talented Turk, he continued to dispute the nomenclature. For Güler, photography is a medium for reporting, and he explains why it isn't art as follows: “A photograph cannot be art even if it is taken by an artist. Let me explain the difference between photography and art. Art is born of falsehood and it tells lies. Art can be created from impossibilities. These are not my words. They come from the introduction to Oscar Wilde’s book Portrait of Dorian Gray.” For Ara Güler the most important material is people. He releases the shutter with the belief that there can be no photograph without people. If you accept this point of view, it should not be difficult to recognise an image produced by Ara Güler. In his photographs, he seems to capture people in such a realistic fashion, as if he has known them for years. In this context, he says “I know the people in my photographs really well. Whether it be the man sitting in a bar in the city or the man in the village coffee house... I know their lifestyles, I know them. I know them very well, a lifetime of experience. I live with them in order to capture one moment, there is always that one moment and it is important. I have been in half of all those bars, that's where I go in the city. I have also spent time in all those places in Anatolia. Right now I am physically here in Istanbul, but at the same time I can mentally be in Mardin, for example,

or on the streets of Urfa or with the headhunters in Sarawak. In my head, I can live anywhere. If you say to me now let's go to such a place, I am already there, my body doesn't have to go. When I do go to a place, to eat and talk to people, all of that experience stays with me, becomes a part of me.” Ara Güler actually loves to travel. This, no doubt, played a part in his decision to leave behind theatre and cinema and become a photojournalist... to swap life at a desk for a job which included endless opportunities to travel all over the world, to meet people, to learn and to discover. But there is no other place like Istanbul… no matter how much he travelled he always came back… he was born and raised there, began his career there, it is the source of his inspiration... the respected Turkish literary figure Enis Batur has called him “The Last Poet of Istanbul”. How many people globally have come to know this spellbinding city through his warm, romantic black and white images... thanks to Enis Batur the world knows Ara Güler as “Istanbul’s Eye”. Whatever you make of this nickname, as the man himself says: “Istanbul is, and always has been, a really important place. What was the population of Paris in the 12th century? Less than half of that of Istanbul. Many different civilisations have existed here over time. Istanbul has always been a significant city. Istanbul is my city. It's where I took my first breath. That's enough for me.” Ara Güler will go down in history as Turkey's greatest photographer whose work has been exhibited around the world, published in many books and forms, part of both private and public collections, now excitement is building over the opening of his museum on August 16th in Istanbul. The collaboration between Ara Güler and the Do u Group which resulted in the establishment of the Ara Güler Archive and Research Centre, aims to preserve the entirety of Ara Güler's archive for future generations and to support the development of photography. Over the next few months, the Centre will also take a lead role in work connected with the opening of the Ara Güler Museum in Bomonti. In the longer term, there is the intention to turn the Güler Apartments in Beyo lu, where Ara Güler spent the early years of his life, into a second branch of the Ara Güler Museum, which will house part of the archives and feature his work office. The Ara Güler Museum is not just for photography enthusiasts, collectors and those who appreciate art, it is also an inspirational venue for anyone thinking of becoming involved in photography at any level. For young people who want to work in this field, as the 90-yearold master says, they must be continuously reading, researching, experiencing and exploring culture... But most of all, in his own words: “Looking at people, watching them go about their daily lives, you learn things, don't you? I looked, I saw, I lived, I learned. And I took a photograph. That's it”...


Street in Tarlabas‚ı, 1965

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I N T H E DAT Ç A P E N I N S U L A , TURKEY

ROBERT HOLDEN

The D Maris Bay is a great place to surf the waves of the Aegean Sea by wake board (or choose from sailing, waterskiing, diving and surfing). This is what an unforgettable experience is really like. The instructors all speak English, German and Turkish. After so much excitement, it's fantastic to return to Silence Beach. As you relax in the absolute quietude of one of the most divine Mediterranean beaches, you'll want to sip a cooling vitamin-rich smoothie, just to keep up your strength.

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my moments

Life is beautiful Atmospheres, emotions and experiences: welcome to Mytha Hotel Anthology

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I N A N AC A P R I , I TA LY

GIACOMO BRETZEL

Close your eyes and open your mouth, you're about to taste one of the most delicious pizzas of your entire life: crunchy and soft, as hot as you like it, with strings of melted cheese.... It's the creation of Peppino, the pizza-master at RagĂš. This Capri Palace restaurant has a terrace offering a fairy- tale view. If you love fish, have lunch at Il Riccio. Afterwards, stroll down to the seaside and sail towards the Blue Grotto!

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GIACOMO BRETZEL

my moments

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I N M A D R I D , S PA I N

ROBERT HOLDEN

Villa Magna can be measured by its nine storeys and stairway which runs up the building's full height. The stairwell's leaded glass reveals a cathedral atmosphere. At any time of the day, each storey is flooded by a different light, for a magical effect. Equally magical is the welcome reserved to your children. How fantastic it is to stay in the hotel room and play in tents recalling Native American stories – even the grown-ups revert to their childhood! Or else you can all draw together before heading to a match at the Santiago Bernabeu Stadium. No worries about tickets or anything else – the concierge can take care of everything!

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GIACOMO BRETZEL

my moments

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ROBERT HOLDEN

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my moments

I N B O D RU M , T U R K E Y

GIACOMO BRETZEL

How lovely to say the “Yes, I do� that changes your life, how truly beautiful it is when pronounced at the Il Riccio Beach House where people really do get married and celebrate with a banquet in the restaurant. You can fit in a quick dive before the starters arrive, have another swim before spaghetti with lobster or a mixed seafood sampler. Then, before the cake is served, everyone back to the water! Who caught the bouquet?

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GIACOMO BRETZEL

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my moments

GIACOMO BRETZEL

I N T H E DAT Ç A P E N I N S U L A , T U R K E Y To start off on the right foot your day at D Maris Bay take a gorgeous breakfast: it is a real trip around the world. From Middle Eastern sweets to the freshest fruits and ultra vitamin juices, to candied fruits, breads, fragrant and delicious pastries which are all home-made. Continue your relaxation time on Silence Beach, engulfed in absolute tranquillity, as you gaze into the blue waters. Yes, your thoughts will drift to Albert Camus who, in his ode to the Mare Nostrum, wrote: “Bright morning of enamelled marine, Latin pearl with lilied sheen: Mediterranean.”

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ANDREW HABECK

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my moments

IN UÇHISAR, TURK EY

GIACOMO BRETZEL

In just a minute your massage will begin. You look out into the immensity of Nature, admiring the Cappadocia stones in Turkey's Central Anatolia region that have been shaped by history. Then it starts and savvy hands slide across your skin to search out every contracted muscle in your body. You're inside argos in Cappadocia’s SPA, a diffused hotel of Neoclassical-design that fits into its surroundings as if it has always been part of them. Around you, absolute silence and a sense of protection as if you were inside the womb of Mother Earth. The massage continues in this environment where the gentle touch is human but the land's shapes seem related to madness. Antoni Gaudi, the modern artist whose works seem like eccentric playthings for children, would have approved. Still, you can't help wondering if George Lucas chose this location for his famous Star Wars saga?

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my moments

GIACOMO BRETZEL

I N D U B R OV N I K , C R OAT I A A summer morning at Villa Dubrovnik. A swim in the turquoise waters of the Adriatic, just off the Elafiti Islands. The water is cold. Bracing. If you do the breaststroke as you swim towards the old city of Dubrovnik, every time you raise your head from the water you'll see its ancient fortified walls. You'll always remember this moment. Indeed, this is an istant you'll never forget – we call them “Mytha Moments”.

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ethical c a ppa d o c i a

Green Acres The rocky wonderland of Cappadocia was shaped by millions of years of natural phenomena — but human hands perform equally incredible work here BY TIAGO FONSECA

et on a plateau 1,000 meters above sea level in the heart of Anatolia, the region of Cappadocia is marked by breathtaking topography that appears otherworldly. Travelers are fascinated by this ancient landscape made up of vast swaths of semi-arid terrain and pockets of green oasis interrupted by spectacular rock formations molded into fantastical shapes by volcanic eruptions long ago. For over 3,000 years, people have worked this extraordinary land, made out of porous volcanic stone that has been honeycombed into a network of caves to create living quarters, places of worship, stables, and storehouses. The earliest settlers farmed to provide food, and the same traditions live on today at argos in Cappadocia, a five-star luxury destination belonging to Mytha Hotel Anthology. Located in the village of Uçhisar, argos in Cappadocia is nestled into the hillside below an ancient hilltop castle that dominates the horizon. Buildings made of the local beigebrown tufa rock are given a shot of green thanks to the team of hotel gardeners led by Rasim Özkılıç. The Uçhisar native is busy most days tending to pergolas and flowerbeds on terraces across the property or working down in the vegetable garden in Pigeon Valley, home to thousands of birdhouses carved out of the rocks once used by the multitude of pigeons found here. Some are still spotted today, and their droppings provide one of the natural fertilizers used to cultivate produce. Özkılıç and his staff are careful to use only organic farming techniques to preserve the soil, collecting rainwater using centuries-old underground cisterns and then pumping the runoff into the fields. The hotel’s chefs especially appreciate the gardeners’ efforts and are spoiled for choice when it comes time to select fresh, healthy ingredients for dishes. Özkılıç supplies to the kitchen herbs such as thyme, rosemary and mint, while the list of produce is extensive and includes crispy arugula, lettuce, eggplant, cucumber, melon, tomato, and pumpkin

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– guests are encouraged to take a brisk morning walk down into the valley to explore their handiwork and the seasonal variation of crops. The mineral-laden volcanic soil provides fruit from apricots and apples to grapes and mulberries, the latter two typically made into molasses, a popular Turkish condiment and one that hotel guests will find amid the sumptuous offerings at the breakfast buffet. Özkılıç operates as the hotel’s resident florist, providing endemic wildflowers, African daisies and other species for decoration in guestrooms and public spaces, both with fresh-cut flowers in bright hues of violet, red and yellow or in displays of dried flowers placed in traditional vases. He keeps up long-standing customs, collecting bundles of dried grapevine to serve as a decorative barrier on ledges and walls. Özkılıç also displays old farming tools found during the ongoing excavations of the property, a poignant reminder to him and others that they weren’t the first to till this remarkable land.

GIACOMO BRETZEL, EMRE DÖRTER, ROBERT HOLDEN

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GREEN THUMB B R I GA D E Uçhisar native Rasim Özkılıç (opposite) and his team of five gardeners keep busy each day at argos in Cappadocia cultivating crops, including these hand-picked mulberries (far right).

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Taste of Life

Michelin-star chefs reveal what they read, watch, and love. How they spend their leisure time, and who they really are once they take off their uniforms BY SARA MAGRO

Andrea Migliaccio

Time runs too fast

The Capri Palace’s chef has two antidotes: to play with his children and to always keep dreaming

Name: Andrea Migliaccio Age: 38 What dish made you successful? Tagliolini pasta with lemon and creamy burrata, shrimp,  sea asparagus and oyster leaves. Thanks to this dish, we were not only awarded the second Michelin star, but it's also one of our guests' favourite recipes because it's simple, fresh and very balanced. What's your worst personal fault? I'm always exaggerating. I'm a maniac for details – in our daily routine cleaning and organising are fundamental aspects and must never be overlooked, even after a tiring day and even at risk of resentment.   Who is the person you admire the most? Ermanno Zanini, my boss and CEO of Capri Palace as well as Chief Commercial Officer of Mytha Hotel Anthology. I admire him for his managerial and organisational talent. However, special thanks go to my grandma because she introduced me to this enticing passion and, later, job. I lived with her for almost 20 years and it was thanks to her that I started to become passionate about cooking. Already at the age of 9. On Sundays, our large family all met up in the kitchen – it was a regular appointment. She answered all my questions with love and patience, as only a grandmother can do. What is your hobby, or favourite activity when not working?  Playing with my two little boys, Davide and Luca. 38 M Y MOMEN T S

What's your favourite film? “Burnt”, starring Bradley Cooper, who dined at our restaurant L’Olivo. However that's not why I liked the film so much. It's the story of a 2-star Michelin chef who, in particular conditions, has to reinvent himself and the film follows his new start and evolution. I won't say anything more because you have to watch it! What's your favourite song? Fuoco nel Fuoco (literally “Fire in fire”) by the Italian singer Eros Ramazzotti. Linked to a certain period of my life, it was at the top of the hit parade when I started studying so, whenever I listen to it, I associate it with the years when my passion for cooking was growing. What text has had the most impact on your work and life? Molecular Gastronomy: Exploring the Science of Flavor, by Hervé This. What's the number one rule you follow in life?  You have to arouse emotion, to leave positive memories of yourself and what you do. I always try to pass on sound principles and values to the people working with me. They're my second family. What's the key to your success? Never stop dreaming and striving to accomplish your goals. I could live on my laurels but I don't, because we still have many ideas to implement. As for example, each and every restaurant of the Mytha Hotel Anthology's properties has still a great potential to express and this is a great drive for me to continue. Can you sum up your ethic? As a professional, I've always wanted to make something truly

mine. Instead, on a personal level, to be an example first as a human being and then as a chef. Do you have a good luck charm? I don't have a lucky object to carry around but I have people who love me and that's enough. My main point of reference is my wife: throughout my career, which is made up of sacrifices and long absences, she has always waited for me. Where's your ideal desert island? I love Capri in both summer and winter. In wintertime it's my desert isle where I can think, research and experiment with new recipes and ideas. Who's your enemy? Time.... it runs too fast. I would like to have more time to do an even better job. Do you have a favourite day? Any day of the week when I lay my head on my pillow, satisfied about how I spent the day and the results achieved from my efforts. Who is your greatest love? My wife Simona, for her intelligence and patience.

Do you like travelling? Very much, both for work and pleasure and for two main reasons: the first is learning about the world we live in and the second is for the pleasure of coming back home. Where is your ideal place (also on holiday)? For vacations, I really love the Caribbean islands; they have an ideal climate. I also love to travel around Italy in search of its culture and variety of ingredients. What's your favourite restaurant?  The Capri Palace was my first great love: I grew up there both physically and emotionally. Then there's Il Riccio, for the satisfaction it's always given me, and the Aldrovandi Villa Borghese for its important award (a Michelin star) earned in just eight months. And then all the others in the Mytha Hotel Anthology... it's hard to choose! What's your next destination? In terms of trips, the next ones will be to Turkey, to Il Riccio in Bodrum, and then to Villa Dubrovnik. In terms of my goals, my next one is to add a star to L'Olivo restaurant. 


the yummy side

Yannick Alléno

Work, work and work again 3-Michelin star at Pavillon Ledoyen, the famous Parisian chef suggests his personal key to success

Name. Yannick Alléno. Age. 49. Nationality. French. Name of your restaurant: Alléno Paris at the Pavillon Ledoyen. What does it take to be a successful chef?  To become a chef, I think you mainly need to work and be creative. Talent for a chef is 90% hard work and perseverance. Of course, you also need to have creativity, but your brain, your inventiveness, is like a muscle that can be strengthened. So, again, work is the key. What dish made you successful? The scallop and sea urchin tartare, delicate sake and rice vinegar jelly, blancmange.  What's your favourite ingredient? Celery root! It’s a vegetable that's

often overlooked but, if we let it express itself, it’s totally surprising with a fantastic palette of taste. Can you tell me something/dish that you really dislike? Aubergine! I’m totally allergic. What's your equivalent of Proust’s Madeleine? Brioche French toast also known as brioche Nanterre. This is the real taste of my childhood and it comes from my Parisian roots. I’m very happy we serve it in our Terroir Parisien in Shanghai and Hong Kong. What's your favourite restaurant?  There are too many, it’s difficult to pick just one! Usually, I prefer restaurants where you eat local produce. I could tell you about bistros like Astier in Paris, a canteen which serve authentic French food or  Akrame, a young talented chef whose vision I really like. Abroad, I

recently discovered Saison  in San Francisco: Joshua Skenes’s way of cooking with ember is remarkable. What's your best personal quality?  Perseverance. And your worst fault? I can’t resist good food and great wine, but is that really a fault? I can be demanding and impatient, but it's always for a greater good! I remember how Yamamoto, a famous Japanese critic, defined a good chef: as someone who takes his job very seriously, who wants to improve all the time, who's very clean, passionate, impatient and stubborn…  Who is the point of reference that you look to? Paul Bocuse. He was an example for all chefs, showing what French cuisine is and should be. He was the first to understand that we needed to modernise traditional cuisine. Do you have a favourite activity or entertainment?  Visiting an art exhibition or an art gallery. For me, contemporary art is a true passion and a real inspiration.  What's your favourite film?  I recently saw a wonderful documentary about Benjamin Millepied and his arrival at the Paris Opera, it’s called “RELEVE : histoire d’une création”. How about a favourite song? Any AC/DC song! I’m a big fan. The best book you've read in your life?  Perfume by Patrick Süskind. What's the number one rule you follow in life?  Never give up.  I think that all the people who succeeded and that I admire are those who kept on trying. What's the key to your success?  Work, work and – again – work.  What text has had the most impact on your work and life? “Le Guide Culinaire”  by Auguste Escoffier. The book starts with a long chapter on sauces, establishing them as the basis of French cuisine. It's a bible for me, as for most cooks, and one of the many reasons we've started working on modern sauces

and our Extraction® process in 2013. Apart from the book, I admire the man very much, he was such a visionary. Do you have a special good luck charm? A green button we have on our jackets by Bragard  at the Pavillon Ledoyen. It’s there to keep reminding us every day to cook responsibly: respecting the product, the environment, and consuming locally. Where's your favourite desert island? The small house we have bought with my family in Italy, a real getaway for us. Who's your greatest enemy? Time. Every day I have the chance to cook and live my passion, and I don’t want it to stop.  I want to keep creating, discovering and seeing a smile on our guests’ faces.  Do you have a favourite day? Every day except Mondays. Who's your greatest love? My wife, Laurence Bonnel. She makes me want to enjoy life to the fullest. Do you like travelling? Yes, and I have the chance to travel quite often for work, but I’d rather settle down a bit more. Where is your ideal place (also on holiday)? I would say anywhere I can spend time with my family and friends, but it would be in the village of Pietrasanta in Tuscany. It’s the ideal place to rediscover each other around Italian food. What's your favourite hotel? The Royal Mansour in Marrakech, a fantastic establishment that I know pretty well because we offer food service there with two restaurants: La Grande Table Française and La Grande Table Marocaine. For us, it's a very exciting challenge to propose French and Moroccan gastronomy on a par with the quality of such a wonderful place. Where's your favourite beach?  In the Seychelles. They have fantastic beaches over there.   What's your next destination? Italy! M Y MOMEN T S 39


the yummy side

Yiannis Kioroglou

It’s all about philoxenia

Yannis Kioroglou, chef at La Guérite restaurants, favors high quality and informality

L

et's meet at La Guérite” it is definitely the chicest place to schedule an appointment in Cannes, in Saint Barts, and now even at the beach club at D Maris Bay, Mytha Hotel Anthology's address for luxury in the Datça Peninsula, in south-west Turkey. To pin down La Guérite, we could call it a club restaurant but that definition doesn't reflect everything it really is. Open in the morning until late at night, here you willl find everything you desire in terms of fun and relaxation: sun, sea, frosty drinks, a Greek salad, music and more. Then, as evening falls, the nightlife takes over with its cocktails, fine dining, after-dinner scene and DJ sets. Late at night the full day concludes with the strains of a Sirtaki and its rhythm gets everyone, of any age, dancing. The kitchens are supervised by Yannis  Kioroglou  who, despite the

40 M Y MOMEN T S

numbers (500 meals served in only one day in Cannes), shows off the menu's very high quality. “In 2013, I was invited to become head chef of this beautiful restaurant in Cannes. Five years later La Guérite is above all a hot spot for eating well. My  culinary priority and serving philosophy relies on traditional Greek hospitality, what we call philoxenia: whenever we prepare something special, we invite our dearest friends and family to share it with us and the dish is placed at the centre of the table. I want my guests to have a fancy gourmet experience while enjoying free time and the sun. Every chef has his secrets about how to reach his goal and mine is to use local and in-season ingredients, no matter what country the recipe is from.  I like to create dishes with deep flavours, rich aromas and fine textures.”

At La Guérite, the cuisine is a tasty overview of the Mediterranean, blending traditions from Greece – where Yannis is from – France, Italy and Spain and adapting them to each restaurant's location. The chef goes on to explain, “In general, it seems that fine dining is going out of style, especially in the summer and at the beach. Eating together should be lived as a moment of conviviality and fun, people always enjoy chatting around a table, seeing what's going on in an open kitchen, eating well. In my view, haute cuisine is about exploring the limits of raw materials and using top-quality ingredients. This should also apply to daily eating so any dish that is savoury and mouth-watering can easily become haute cuisine – and vice versa.”  One thing you can count on: all formality is strictly forbidden at La Guérite.


dress local

Free Spirit

Los Angeles based interior designer and trend-maker AIMÉE SONG carries with her freedom and an immutable, natural elegance.

FA N T A S Y B O DY Printed swimming, surfing and yoga-suit with long sleeves, ties at the neck, La DoubleJ.

L A DY B U G Necklace with an embossed silver pendant, hand-enamelled and decorated with cubic zirconia, Bottega Veneta.

S W E E T S PR AY A round O-Shaped bottle for a powerful floral chyprée essence that inspires a feeling of escape, Chloé Nomade.

FRINGE ST YLE Cashmere cardigan with fringes and Navaho inspired decoration, Alanui.

WA L K F O RWA R D Wraparound frame with a strong vintage spirit, thin acetate rims and temples, Tom Ford Eyewear.

Pony skin flat sandals with leather stitches, Tod’s.

PR E C I O U S PE N D I N G Diamonds and white and yellow gold for the octopus earrings by Chantecler.

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INSTAGRAM @ SONGOFSTYLE

NATUR AL STEP


T RU E C O L O U R Inspired by South-Africa's energy and natural beauty of intense, warm colours: AFRICAN LIGHT “Bouncy Highlighter”, Givenchy Beauty Collection.

SPOTTED VENUS Leopard print strapless swimmingsuit, Eres.

Breathtaking Beauty Swedish actress ALICIA VIKANDER suggests a hippy-chic style for an unforgettable escape in Bodrum. LOOK ME IN THE EYES Round sunglasses in lightweight metal and personalized acetate graced by gold colour filaments. Anti-UV, anti-scratch lenses. Color, crystal quartz. Made in Italy. Salvatore Ferragamo.

ROSE & MILK “Portrait” ring in rose gold with milky quartz. Pomellato.

INSTAGRAM @ ALICIAVIKANDERDAILY

S I M PLY S U M M E R Crochet cotton flared dress, REDValentino. Leather belt and suede platform sandals, all RED(V).

PA S S E PA R T O U T Trolley “Horizon My World tour” in canvas monogram and metallic details, Louis Vuitton.

D E L I C A T E PA T H “Blooming RV” lace-up espadrillas, in striped cotton and embroidery, Roger Vivier.

M Y MOME N T S 43


big toys for big boys

T R AV E L L I G H T

Look Ahead!

Stockholm-born “Big Little Lies” actor ALEXANDER SKARSGARD wonders whether girls want to go out with him only because they’ve seen him in a movie.

Aluminium “logo” suitcase with personalised belt, Fendi featuring Rimowa.

SECRET EYES Vintage-inspired round shape glasses featuring a key bridge with metal details and temples personalised with crafted stitching. Tod’s Eyewear.

P U S H FA S T E R Driving loafers in light blue antique calfskin, Car Shoe.

M R . E L E GA N C E

An alluring icon for different generations, Porsche 911 Targa 4 now comes in both rear-wheel and all-wheel drive. The all-wheel model has a 44mm wider body, with even more grip on the road. Porsche Traction Management (PTM) transmits a different drive force to the four wheels depending on the circumstances. This helps to ensure tire adherence and better performance.

Double-breasted jacket in cotton piquet with a stretch finish for a perfect fit, Eleventy.

ON TIME! Five years after launching the flyback chronograph, the watchmakers from Nyon reworked it to offer a brand new Unico movement that is slimmer, perfect for the 42-mm case. Introducing the calibre Hub1280. Hublot Big Bang Unico 42 Mm.

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24H OFFICE Briefcase in saffiano leather with shoulder strap and handles, Valextra.

INSTAGRAM @ ALEXANDERSKARSGAARD

FA S T, FA S T, FA S T E R


LOOK T HROUGH

COMFORT FIRST

The round, full-vue MILTZEN sunglasses, first introduced in the 1930s. Round lenses and acetate frame. Moscot.

Loafers with soft calfskin tassels, in a brown shade and handstitched toe box, Santoni.

THE RIGHT MOMEN T OCTO ROMA watch, with mechanical manufacture movement automatic winding, Calibre BVL 191 Solotempo, chamfered, snailed and adorned with Côtes de Genève motif, three-hand layout for utmost accuracy, 42-hour power reserve. Steel case, 41 mm in diameter. Black alligator leather strap. Bulgari.

Think Charming PRINCE HARRY: pilot and philanthropist. The essence of a contemporary gentleman.

R E A DY F O R THE BUSH Délavé linen safari jacket with rollup sleeves and lightweight cupro lining, Brunello Cucinelli.

UNDERSTATEMEN T Wide brim Quito panama with canneté band, Borsalino.

INSTAGRAM @ PRINCEHARRYOFENGLAND

INFORMAL E L E GA N C E Tourquoise printed silk scarf, Hermés.

H A PP Y H O N E Y M O O N An all-wheel drive powertrain gives the Bentley Continental GT Convertible traction in all conditions. The engine's power is sent to all four wheels, with a 60:40 rear power delivery bias for optimum handling. As a result, this car guarantees both speed and confidence and delivers grip and control. The up-rated Electronic Stability Control (ESC) system operates alongside the all-wheel drive system to boost the driver's confidence.

M Y MOME N T S 45


beaut y guru

Miraculous Treatment

I

In Capri, meet the enlightened professor who knows how to make women's legs more beautiful PHOTO GIACOMO BRETZEL

ntuitions that were spot-on years ago might not have been recognised as important at the time. Take the case of MD Francesco Canonaco, specialised in clinical pediatrics, oncology, nutrition, nephrology and cosmetic medicine. Twenty years ago, as healthcare director of Capri Palace Beauty Farm, he had noticed that – apart from the usual unflattering features, such as cellulite, afflicting women's silhouettes – the main issue was venous insufficiency as well as the small capillaries that dull legs' skin by leaving dark patches. “As a children's doctor I observed how women,

programme in hyper-tonic medicated water, activated by Kneipp baths and reaching various temperatures from 104°F down to 64°F. The treatment ends with a massage using frozen stones. As recently as the 1990s, the island of Ischia (Gulf of Naples, Italy) alone was considered a beauty and well-being destination while Capri was rather a place where one would go to be fashionable and have fun. The Leg School® became the business card for the Anacapri 360° holistic wellness centre. It was also partially thanks to Julia Roberts who heard

especially those who had recently become mothers, suffered from this condition caused by hormones”. Since the field of cosmetic medicine was overwhelmingly focused on cellulite and lipolysis (the breakdown of fats), professor Canonaco was alone in his field of experimentation. He was the first in the world to patent a unique method known as The Leg School®. This treatment consists in applying medicated muds and cold bandages: plant extracts (such as ginkgo biloba, tonka beans, caffeine, ivy, pennywort, camphor, eucalyptus) and minerals (magnesium, potassium and a number of trace elements). Once they penetrate the epidermis, these elements all promote a vasotonic effect. (The formula is almost as secret as the one for CocaCola). The 'schooling' is completed by a vascular exercise

about this innovative protocol while attending the Cannes Film Festival and decided to try it out for a week. Since then, success became global and Capri Palace was also named the best SPA in the world by Condé Nast Traveler USA in 2005. In less than seven days, semi-miracles can happen. “To complete the treatment we work on correct posture as well as rationally planned weight-loss, meaning that it must be combined with a stimulation of metabolism in order to discourage the yo-yo effect of immediate weight re-gain”, Canonaco adds. Guests start their diet, which is not a strict punitive regiment but more a balanced journey towards a healthier routine including delicious food. It's no wonder because the dishes are prepared by the Michelin starred restaurant L'Olivo. Now the only thing left to do is to give it a try!

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M Y MOME N T S

47


forever young

A New Concept of Beauty Mytha SPA at Villa Magna combines the best Western techniques with the Eastern holistic therapies to help guests feel special and rejuvenated BY ŞEBNEM DENKTAŞ

F

or those who truly embrace the Spanish way, with late dinners and no calories count, a new not-tobe-missed spot is ready to welcome and bring them back to an healthier, more balanced lifestyle: Mytha SPA. The philosophy that underpins Madrid's iconic hotel Villa Magna has now led to the creation of Mytha SPA, offering special therapies with great attention given to the product selection, thus guaranteeing a unique experience for each one. It combines the best Western techniques with an Eastern holistic and philosophical approach to give a whole new meaning to the concept of wellness. At Mytha SPA guests will be seduced by the facial and body treatments and discover the wonders of the authentic hammam rituals in a special room made of marble brought directly from Turkey and where all the traditional processes are followed. They can enjoy exclusive use of The Leg School® flagship treatment that comes from the island of Capri and is specially designed by Dr. Francesco Canonaco to restore the well-being and beauty of the legs. In the new facilities, four treatment rooms equipped with the best thermal stretchers will be available. A wet area including a jacuzzi, steam room, sauna, lifestyle shower and an authentic hammam, and a 24-hour open gym are also featured. All this in a new wellness space, where luxurious materials such as travertine and wood are mixed with the sounds of water and the aromas of the Mediterranean. This health temple is a gift to the hotel guests - a place where they will feel special and rejuvenated - as well as most sophisticated locals living in the surroundings.

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things to know

THE VENUE Following Cannes and St. Barths, the world renowned restaurant, beach and lounge La Guérite opens at D Maris Bay hotel in Datça Peninsula. Since 1935, a worldwide clientele has been seduced by La Guérite’s charme, authenticity and cuisine, which is not only Mediterranean but healthy too. Alternating baking, braising and barbecue, Chef Yiannis Kioroglou and his team make guests enjoy a unique culinary experience. Let's meet up there.

Datça Peninsula

Ancient and Modern Turkey Travel is about so much more than just the destination

ANCIENT FINDS Knidos, about 35 km from the center of present-day Datça, is home to the most important archeological discoveries on the peninsula that date back to 2000 BC. The first inhabitants were the Carians, who arrived here in the year 1000 BC from Greece and founded the city. From 546 BC Knidos went over to the Persians and for commercial reasons moved to the tip of the peninsula, where its ruins lie. During the Roman period, the population of the city reached 70,000 people.

ON TV Before you head off, catch Mehmet Bir Cihan Fatihi, a TV series produced in Turkey about the life of Fatih Sultan Mehmet, the Ottoman Emperor who, at the age of 21, conquered Constantinople (modernday Istanbul) and brought an end to the Byzantine Empire. It features Kenan Imirzalioglu, one of Turkey’s most attractive film stars.

THE BOOK Assouline’s new book Bosphorus Private is showcasing the 20 spectacular private homes along the ancient strait of Istanbul, the point where Europe and Asia meet. A great guide to discover the beautiful waters and architecture of this scenic region of Turkey… M Y MOME N T S 49


Sailing is a School of Life

Meet the 2016 Rio de Janeiro Olympic “Gold Medalists” Šime Fantela and Igor Marenić, the first Croatian team ever to win in Men’s 470 class sailing. They discuss their approach to the sport, their projects and ambitions. BY SARA MAGRO

Igor Marenić

WHO'S WHO Šime Fantela and Igor Marenić are Rio 2016 gold medallists in Olympic sailing. 50 M Y MO MEN T S

I

Š I M E FA N T E L A

started sailing when I was six. It was 1992, and my father was building a boat in an area full of small sailboats. I immediately dreamt of becoming the captain of my own boat so I could decide where to go and how to sail. Ever since then my passion for sailing has grown stronger and stronger. To be a sailor you have to love being in the water, in the sun and sea, in the rough and good weather, and working really hard for competitions. This spirit has always pushed me forward, as I try to prove to myself and to anyone else that I am a good sailor, that I can work hard and perform well in a regatta. It’s not always an easy path. Igor and I finished sixth at the London Games in 2012. It

took a lot of strength and courage to go back to training even harder for the Summer Olympics 2016 in Rio de Janeiro. There we won a Gold Medal. Our next mission is Tokyo 2020, in the 49er class competition. I will be with my brother Mihovil and we are already pushing hard to place. The Olympic Games have taught me a lot: I have more focus on the direction I want to go. I try to be my own boss, to make my best plans: I have a team to take care of and belong to. Nevertheless, when you achieve negative results or something bad happens, you need to remember it is only another step to climb to become strong and to have another opportunity in the future. Sailing made me stronger and more prepared to face life.


adventures in the wind

Explore Datça Peninsula Šime Fantela

I

IGOR MARENIĆ

started sailing when I was eight, off the islands of Croatia where I was born. Then I moved to Zara on my own when I was 15, to sail with Šime. Probably that was the most difficult challenge I've had to face so far. It was the first time I realized that to sail, and to do anything else you really love in life, it takes a lot of sacrifices and not just training. You can say this for any sport, but sailing is quite specific because it's so close to nature: love and respect for nature are key to doing it properly. I think that anybody who lives near a coast or a shore can become a sailor, from the age of 3 to 80, and even beyond. There is no physical limitation. If you ask me what the beauty of sailing is, I love competing,

D Maris Bay, one of the luxury properties of Mytha Hotel Anthology, has a wide range of activities reserved to its guests. Gain a new perspective of the area, hiring one of our custom-built vessels for a sea excursion, including the 100 ft. wooden sailing Yacht - “Pasha" or "Ubi Bene”, with 5 en-suite cabins. For those who enjoy a little more speed, Alia Open Sea motor yacht for a day outing to beautiful bays and villages throughout the protected marine area around the hotel. www.dmarisbay.com

because training and sailing for fun are great but when it comes to checking and comparing your performance to other guys out in the ocean, it’s just another level. When you are in a regatta, it is crucial to share goals and ideas with your team, to follow the leader’s decisions. You have to become aware of your limits, take care of your equipment and health, work with a huge spectrum of different people and learn how to be flexible in those relationships. I think it's very complex but quite amazing. At the moment I'm looking for a sailing partner to team up with to try to go to the Olympic Games again and hopefully win another medal.

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Travelling

along the

An amazing trip where nature is still alive and beauty is everywhere BY BLANCA SCOTTSDALE PHOTO ROBERT HODELN

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my moments discovery

Equator

National Park Lenรงois Maranhenses, a desert where rainfall percentage goes to + 300 times vs. the Sahara desert. M Y MOME N T S 53


my moments discovery

A

Added together, pristine nature plus Unesco world heritage equals a zone that is still a “pure” Brazilian destination. We're talking about an area on the same latitude as Papua New Guinea, Indonesia and the Democratic Republic of Congo. It's very remote. So remote that it offers a virgin natural environment. In order to better localise where we are, think Maranhão, one of the most north-eastern of Brazil's 26 federal states. The capital city of Sao Luis, with its ocean tides that run a differential of almost 18 metres, generally has a hot and humid climate typical of the tropics, although its dry season starts in August and continues through December. The city centre, with its buildings decorated 54 M Y MO MEN T S

with majolica and azulejos tiles, is protected by Unesco. Starting from here, our road trip takes us over 130 miles of dirt roads running through an ever-changing landscape, in the direction of the National Park Lençois de Maranhenses. First, it's all high forest before becoming scrub brush, where sand is increasingly present until at last it dominates the land. The people's houses, built of brick with straw roofs, are scattered here and there near the town of Barreirinhas, the gateway to the Park. The Maranhenses area measures 600 square miles of sand along a 43-mile-long strip, with dunes rising to a height of 130 feet that are interspersed with turquoise fresh-water lagoons. The rainfall in this desert is 300 times more than in the Sahara. We cross a river and then find still more sandy tracks forming what looks like a real labyrinth. They seem to lead us nowhere and, for a moment, we feel like navigators from the Old World searching for the Americas. However it's peaceful here. The sun continues


to move across the horizon and, every now and then, from out of nowhere, forms of life appear: horses, men, pigs. This is a journey within the journey. We are faced with soft, almost vertical “mountains” that seem to make our path impossible to follow and yet our car manages, it's a miracle. The sand is particularly finegrained, almost as soft as silk when we touch it. Soon we make out the Lagoa Bonita do Sul, one of the most famous lagoons: crystal clear blue water forms one entity with the sand. In front of our eyes, sand alternates with water, over and over again - they look like natural swimming pools created by rain and, sometimes, inhabited by turtles and fish. All this appears in front of us. Like eyes. The water pools also have the shape of eyes – could they be windows into the soul of our world? Our downriver trip along the Rio Preguiças takes us through swirling currents and transparent waters, a forest of giant mangroves, sometimes 65 feet high, and wide river banks. We

travel as far as the village of Mandacaru, where the delicious smells of fish cooking over burning coals fills the air. Soon we'll reach the Atlantic Ocean and from there we'll go to Fernando de Noronha. This island is part of an archipelago, 217 miles off the Brazilian coast, one of our planet's most uncontaminated sites and named World Heritage Site by Unesco in 2001. After taking off from Recife, in an hour and a half, our plane lands in one of the iconic places for sustainable tourism. A single road less than 5 miles long crosses the 10.5 mile-long island and gives pedestrian access to 16 beaches with a daily limit to the number of visitors. The waters are full of fish of all kinds, dolphins swim close enough to be patted, there are sea-turtles and whales. This is paradise. We can't help but wonder what the first travellers, the Portuguese pioneers and the pilots of postal planes, must have felt when they landed on this island. However of course we know the answer: they thought they'd found paradise.

The island of Fernando de Noronha around 200 miles away from the Brazilian coast. Above, the Preguiças River. M Y MOME N T S 55


bedtime reading

Published in 1914 in the collection “Dubliners”, this short story takes us back to a time when cars were the privilege of a handful of dandies. A few happy friends celebrate life at the highest possible speed in a race at the turn of the 20th Century.

JAMES JOYCE

After

the

T

Race

he cars came scudding in towards Dublin, running evenly like pellets in the groove of the Naas Road. At the crest of the hill at Inchicore sightseers had gathered in clumps to watch the cars careering homeward and through this channel of poverty and inaction the Continent sped its wealth and industry. Now and again the clumps of people raised the cheer of the gratefully oppressed. Their sympathy, however, was for the blue cars—the cars of their friends, the French. The French, moreover, were virtual victors. Their team had finished solidly; they had been placed second and third and the driver of the winning German car was reported a Belgian. Each blue car, therefore, received a double measure of welcome as it topped the crest of the hill and each cheer of welcome was acknowledged with smiles and nods by those in the car. In one of these trimly built cars was a party of four young men whose spirits seemed to be at present well above the level of successful Gallicism: in fact, these four young men were almost hilarious. They were Charles Ségouin, the owner of the car; André Rivière, a young electrician of Canadian birth; a huge Hungarian named Villona and a neatly groomed young man named Doyle. Ségouin was in good humour because he had unexpectedly received some orders in advance (he was about to start a motor establishment in Paris) and Rivière was in good humour because he was to be appointed manager of the establishment; these two young men (who were cousins) were also in good humour because of the success of the French cars. Villona was in good humour because he had had a very satisfactory luncheon; and besides he was an optimist by nature. The fourth member of the party, however, was too excited to be genuinely happy. He was about twenty-six years of age, with a soft, light brown moustache and rather innocent-looking grey eyes. His father, who had begun life as an advanced Nationalist, had modified his views early. He had made his money as a butcher in Kingstown and by

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opening shops in Dublin and in the suburbs he had made his money many times over. He had also been fortunate enough to secure some of the police contracts and in the end he had become rich enough to be alluded to in the Dublin newspapers as a merchant prince. He had sent his son to England to be educated in a big Catholic college and had afterwards sent him to Dublin University to study law. Jimmy did not study very earnestly and took to bad courses for a while. He had money and he was popular; and he divided his time curiously between musical and motoring circles. Then he had been sent for a term to Cambridge to see a little life. His father, remonstrative, but covertly proud of the excess, had paid his bills and brought him home. It was at Cambridge that he had met Ségouin. They were not much more than acquaintances as yet but Jimmy found great pleasure in the society of one who had seen so much of the world and was reputed to own some of the biggest hotels in France. Such a person (as his father agreed) was well worth knowing, even if he had not been the charming companion he was. Villona was entertaining also—a brilliant pianist—but, unfortunately, very poor. The car ran on merrily with its cargo of hilarious youth. The two cousins sat on the front seat; Jimmy and his Hungarian friend sat behind. Decidedly Villona was in excellent spirits; he kept up a deep bass hum of melody for miles of the road. The Frenchmen flung their laughter and light words over their shoulders and often Jimmy had to strain forward to catch the quick phrase. This was not altogether pleasant for him, as he had nearly always to make a deft guess at the meaning and shout back a suitable answer in the face of a high wind. Besides Villona’s humming would confuse anybody; the noise of the car, too. Rapid motion through space elates one; so does notoriety; so does the possession of money. These were three good reasons for Jimmy’s excitement. He had been seen by many of his friends that day in the company of these Continentals. At the control Ségouin had presented him to one of the French competitors and, in answer to his confused murmur of compliment, the swarthy face of the driver had disclosed a line of shining white teeth. It was pleasant after that honour to return to the profane world of spectators amid nudges and

“He was about twenty-six years of age, with a soft, light brown moustache and rather innocent-looking grey eyes” significant looks. Then as to money—he really had a great sum under his control. Ségouin, perhaps, would not think it a great sum but Jimmy who, in spite of temporary errors, was at heart the inheritor of solid instincts knew well with what difficulty it had been got together. This knowledge had previously kept his bills within the limits of reasonable recklessness and, if he had been so conscious of the labour latent in money when there had been question merely of some freak of the higher intelligence, how much more so now when he was about to stake the greater part of his substance! It was a serious thing for him. Of course, the investment was a good one and Ségouin had managed to give the impression that it was by a favour of friendship the mite of Irish money was to be included in the capital of the concern. Jimmy had a respect for his father’s shrewdness in business matters and in this case it had been his father who had first suggested the investment; money to be made in the motor business, pots of money. Moreover Ségouin had the unmistakable air of wealth. Jimmy set out to translate into days’ work that lordly car in which he sat. How

M Y MOME N T S 57


bedtime reading

smoothly it ran. In what style they had come careering along the country roads! The journey laid a magical finger on the genuine pulse of life and gallantly the machinery of human nerves strove to answer the bounding courses of the swift blue animal. They drove down Dame Street. The street was busy with unusual traffic, loud with the horns of motorists and the gongs of impatient tram-drivers. Near the Bank Ségouin drew up and Jimmy and his friend alighted. A little knot of people collected on the footpath to pay homage to the snorting motor. The party was to dine together that evening in Ségouin’s hotel and, meanwhile, Jimmy and his friend, who was staying with him, were to go home to dress. The car steered out slowly for Grafton Street while the two young men pushed their way through the knot of gazers. They walked northward with a curious feeling of disappointment in the exercise, while the city hung its pale globes of light above them in a haze of summer evening. In Jimmy’s house this dinner had been pronounced an occasion. A certain pride mingled with his parents’ trepidation, a certain eagerness, also, to play fast and loose for the names of great foreign cities have at least this virtue. Jimmy, too, looked very well when he was dressed and, as he stood in the hall giving a last equation to the bows of his dress tie, his father may have felt even commercially satisfied at having secured for his son qualities often unpurchaseable. His father, therefore, was unusually friendly with Villona and his manner expressed a real respect for foreign accomplishments; but this subtlety of his host was probably lost upon the Hungarian, who was beginning to have a sharp desire for his dinner.

“That night the city wore the mask of a capital. The five young men strolled along Stephen’s Green in a faint cloud of aromatic smoke. They talked loudly and gaily and their cloaks dangled from their shoulders” The dinner was excellent, exquisite. Ségouin, Jimmy decided, had a very refined taste. The party was increased by a young Englishman named Routh whom Jimmy had seen with Ségouin at Cambridge. The young men supped in a snug room lit by electric candlelamps. They talked volubly and with little reserve. Jimmy, whose imagination was kindling, conceived the lively youth of the Frenchmen twined elegantly upon the firm framework of the Englishman’s manner. A graceful image of his, he thought, and a just one. He admired the dexterity with which their host directed the conversation. The five young men had various tastes and their tongues had been loosened. Villona, with immense respect, began to discover to the mildly surprised Englishman the beauties of the English madrigal, deploring the loss of old instruments. Rivière, not wholly ingenuously, undertook to explain to Jimmy the triumph of the French mechanicians. The resonant voice of the Hungarian was about to prevail in ridicule of the spurious lutes of the romantic painters when Ségouin shepherded his party into politics. Here was congenial ground for all. Jimmy, under generous influences, felt the buried zeal of his father wake to life within him: he aroused the torpid Routh at last. The room grew doubly hot and Ségouin’s task grew harder each moment: there was even

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danger of personal spite. The alert host at an opportunity lifted his glass to Humanity and, when the toast had been drunk, he threw open a window significantly. That night the city wore the mask of a capital. The five young men strolled along Stephen’s Green in a faint cloud of aromatic smoke. They talked loudly and gaily and their cloaks dangled from their shoulders. The people made way for them. At the corner of Grafton Street a short fat man was putting two handsome ladies on a car in charge of another fat man. The car drove off and the short fat man caught sight of the party. “André.” “It’s Farley!” A torrent of talk followed. Farley was an American. No one knew very well what the talk was about. Villona and Rivière were the noisiest, but all the men were excited. They got up on a car, squeezing themselves together amid much laughter. They drove by the crowd, blended now into soft colours, to a music of merry bells. They took the train at Westland Row and in a few seconds, as it seemed to Jimmy, they were walking out of Kingstown Station. The ticket-collector saluted Jimmy; he was an old man: “Fine night, sir!” It was a serene summer night; the harbour lay like a darkened mirror at their feet. They proceeded towards it with linked arms, singing Cadet Roussel in chorus, stamping their feet at every: “Ho! Ho! Hohé, vraiment!” They got into a rowboat at the slip and made out for the American’s yacht. There was to be super, music, cards. Villona said with conviction: “It is delightful!” There was a yacht piano in the cabin. Villona played a waltz for Farley and Rivière, Farley acting as cavalier and Rivière as lady. Then an impromptu square dance, the men devising original figures. What merriment! Jimmy took his part with a will; this was seeing life, at least. Then Farley got out of breath and cried  “Stop!”  A man brought in a light supper, and the young men sat down to it for form’s sake. They drank, however: it was Bohemian. They drank Ireland, England, France, Hungary, the United States of America. Jimmy made a speech, a long speech, Villona saying: “Hear! hear!”whenever there was a pause. There was a great clapping of hands when he sat down. It must have been a good speech. Farley clapped him on the back and laughed loudly. What jovial fellows! What good company they were! Cards! cards! The table was cleared. Villona returned quietly to his piano and played voluntaries for them. The other men played game after game, flinging themselves boldly into the adventure. They drank the health of the Queen of Hearts and of the Queen of Diamonds. Jimmy felt obscurely the lack of an audience: the wit was flashing. Play ran very high and paper began to pass. Jimmy did not know exactly who was winning but he knew that he was losing. But it was his own fault for he frequently mistook his cards and the other men had to calculate his I.O.U.‘s for him. They were devils of fellows but he wished they would stop: it was getting late. Someone gave the toast of the yacht  The Belle of Newport and then someone proposed one great game for a finish. The piano had stopped; Villona must have gone up on deck. It was a terrible game. They stopped just before the end of it to drink for luck. Jimmy understood that the game lay between Routh and Ségouin. What excitement! Jimmy was excited too; he would lose, of course. How much had he written away? The men rose to their feet to play the last tricks, talking and gesticulating. Routh won. The cabin shook with the young men’s cheering and the cards were bundled together. They began then to gather in what they had won. Farley and Jimmy were the heaviest losers. He knew that he would regret in the morning but at present he was glad of the rest, glad of the dark stupor that would cover up his folly. He leaned his elbows on the table and rested his head between his hands, counting the beats of his temples. The cabin door opened and he saw the Hungarian standing in a shaft of grey light: “Daybreak, gentlemen!” READING TIME: 11 MINUTES

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let’s talk

How

to Be

Present

Collector and patron of the arts, Patrizia Sandretto Re Rebaudengo established her namesake influential foundation in Turin, Italy. She was presented with the “Personality of the Year” Apollo Award for her dedication to discover and nurture new talents and ideas in arts and education. That’s why our first question to her is obvious. INTERVIEW BY SARA MAGRO 60 M Y MO MEN T S


W ILD ART Left: Octopus brooch, Marcel Boucher (1940), one of the American jewels collected by Patrizia Sandretto Re Rebaudengo and artworks from her Foundation’s collection.

STEFANO SCIUTO

W Why did you decide to devote the greatest part of your life to contemporary art? After having worked in the family business and having devoted years to my children, in 1992, during a trip to London, I was deeply struck by the studio of a British artist of Indian descent: Anish Kapoor. His stone sculptures covered with brightly coloured raw pigments enchanted me at first sight. From that moment I started studying and visiting museums around the world; then, in 1995, the Fondazione Sandretto Re Rebaudengo was established with its two headquarters: one, in an ancient family palazzo in Guarene d’Alba and, the other, in a building designed by architect Claudio Silvestrin in Turin. Why is contemporary art important? The artworks invite us to reflect on the present and to live this time with deeper awareness. Today as yesterday, art and culture enrich our experience of the world. They don’t provide answers or easy interpretations but rather pose fundamental questions, demolish prejudice or commonplace notions as well as offering alternative ways to observe reality. Contemporary art is necessary for the growth of our individual lives as well as for our civic coexistence.

“Collecting is in my DNA. When I was a girl, I collected boxes that I carefully catalogued in a small notebook.”

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LET ’S TALK

“Art and culture have a key role to play in democratic life. At the Foundation, the exhibition is a place to visit but it’s also an active, thoughtful and creative workshop.” What role does an art foundation play in a city? The foundation is a private institution that I consider in line with the model of a public museum. It’s a museum-workshop capable of generating content, promoting knowledge, inspiring and supporting younger-generation artists and making contemporary art into a generator for education and for community-building. Do you consider “art as a social tool”? I believe that contemporary art can play a crucial role, now as never before. It can break down barriers, stereotypes, prejudices, and can even galvanise our thoughts towards what is unknown, hostile and alien to us. It extends the rights of cultural citizenship and, therefore, it is a boon to our societies. When face to face with contemporary art many, even knowledgeable people seem to be disoriented or to show prejudice. How would you convince them to change their point of view? The foundation is working to get visitors of all ages to appreciate art via our Cultural Mediation service. Its task is to facilitate the visitor’s relationship with the artwork and the exhibition as a whole by providing information, promoting dialogue, and showing the value of individual interpretations. 62 M Y MO MEN T S

With this objective, the visit is an occasion to learn and enjoy a social activity, a cultural experience that highlights how art can raise some crucial issues of our times and, therefore, can allow us to share them with others. Choose three masterpieces which show creativity in art history as well as artist’s innovation in the eye of the viewer Sala dei Giganti (1532-1535) The Chamber of Giants, Giulio Romano’s fresco covering an entire room of the Palazzo Te in Mantua depicts the battle between the Giants and Jove as described by Ovid. He plunges the viewer into his narration with a very contemporary intensity. Étant donnés (1946-1966) Marcel Duchamp worked in secret on this piece for 20 years: it takes the form of a door with two tiny peek-holes. Looking through them, the viewer spies an enigmatic composition in an encounter that is unexpected, private and wordless. Factory of the Sun (2015) This installation by Hito Steyerl is in our collection and it’s a large, dark, immersive environment with a grid of light that runs around the whole room. In one corner there’s a video projected on a screen. It presents the viewer with the advantages and disadvantages of a world governed by the


GIORGIO PEROTTINO

Internet and the flow of data. Is art an investment? Speaking for myself, I only collect for passion, looking at the artwork itself, at what it expresses, more than at the artist’s name or its market value. Collecting is in my DNA, it’s my way of building thoughts and communicating them to others, to share forms and thougths. You also collect, and wear, heirloom American jewellery. I began collecting American jewellery at the end of the 1980s. I was immediately struck by these jewels, and the impression grew when I began to research their history that goes back to 1930 America. Which country best sums up your idea of modernity? London is the place where my thoughts are in step with the energy of the artists, artworks, and exhibitions. London was where I discovered contemporary art: Anish Kapoor, the first works in my collection, the Serpentine Gallery situated in a public park, the Young British Artists… What does travelling mean to you? Travelling is the red thread of fate that maps my geography, my knowledge of cultures, art, and the world. Do you have a project for the future? In 2019, the Fundación Sandretto Re Rebaudengo will open in Madrid inside one of the former slaughterhouse buildings. This new centre will be devoted to researching and producing new exhibitions and artworks. I have invited architects Arturo Franco and David Adjaye to work on the idea of a welcoming place: conceived for the artworks and artists, for the public and for schools and families involved in visits and workshops. Will Turin always be in the cards? It’s my city and, even though I’m often away, I’m always overjoyed to return.

IN & OUT & ON Chinese Dragon Brooch, Trifari (1941); Exhibition at the Foundation; the cafeteria designed by artist Rudolf Stingel; the Foundation’s building in Turin, Italy.

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room with a view

A S PL A S H IN ROME At Aldrovandi Villa Borghese you can swim in the oversize pool and enjoy a vacation in the heart of the cittĂ eterna. Built in 1899, the hotel is one of the iconic residences in Rome, in the posh neighborhood of Parioli.

Odi et amo. Quare id faciam, fortasse requiris. Nescio, sed fieri sentio et excrucior. Catullo I hate and I love. Why do I do this, perhaps you ask. I do not know, but I feel it happening and I am tortured. Catullus

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Forget the car. Audi is more.

The new Audi A8

The new Audi A8 is based on one premise: The world doesn’t stop when you get into your car. Stay connected and productive without getting stuck in one place. In a world where every moment counts, the new Audi A8 is a timely investment.

The assistance systems only work within system limits. They can be of assistance, but drivers are still required to be attentive at all times. Combined fuel consumption in l/100 km: 5,6-7,5; combined CO₂ emissions in g/km: 145-171. Fuel consumption and CO₂ emission figures given in ranges depend on the tyre/wheel sets.

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