My Weekly Preview - Issue 196 - June 8, 2012

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CHINESE FOOD MEETS WESTERN WINE If you can pair the right wine with the right Chinese dish, you’ve hit the jackpot. China’s rapid emergence as a major international wine market has sparked intense debate among growers about how best to pair their wines with the country’s rich array of culinary delights. Drawn by the prospect of vast, relatively untapped pools of new Chinese consumers, wine growers from around the world are competing to claim their products go best with the Asian giant’s unique dishes. Food pairing is essential to the enjoyment of wine and, from a purely business point of view, to the industry’s mission to encourage the Chinese to drink it. But even the best sommeliers are vexed by the pairing of wine with Chinese dishes. While French appellations clearly dominate the market for high-end imported wine in China, countries such as Australia, Chile and South Africa are important players in the mid-range and entry levels. Nikki Palun, the Mandarin-speaking

Food pairing is essential to the enjoyment of wine and to the industry’s mission to encourage the Chinese to drink itm ne

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export manager for De Bortoli Wines of Australia, has travelled extensively in China and says wines should be chosen to match the qualities of the country’s regional cuisines. From the hearty pork, lamb and pickled vegetable dishes of the north-east, to the fiery spices of south-western Sichuan and the mild, steamed specialities of the southern Cantonese-speaking region, there are many opportunities for wines to find their perfect culinary pairing, she says. But of the great French varietals, she preferred the pinots of Burgundy

to the heavier cabernets of Bordeaux to go with her Chinese dinners, due to the tannin which helps give a wine its flavour and structure. “I’ll stick with Chardonnay and Burgundy. Pinot is a great match with a lot of Chinese cuisine, like pork and duck,” she says. Georges Haushalter, president of the Bordeaux Wine Council, has a complicated theory about Chinese food and acidity in wine. Perhaps unsurprisingly, however, he concludes that as long as you stick with a Bordeaux all will be well. AAP

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